Other Cornell titles

World Voyage Planner

Planning a voyage from anywhere in the world to anywhere in the world

Paperback: 9781472954732

This comprehensive guide deals with all the elements that ensure a successful voyage by providing practical advice for would-be voyagers. Essential aspects of preparations for an offshore voyage are based on Jimmy Cornell’s personal experience gained both from his own voyages and the transatlantic and round-the-world sailing rallies he has organised over the years. While the main focus is on the most popular cruising routes, there are also suggested voyages to less-frequented destinations. World Voyage Planner is designed to be used in conjunction with World Cruising Routes and Cornells’ Ocean Atlas.

World Cruising Destinations

An inspirational guide to every cruising destination in the world

Paperback: 9781472991027

A substantial handbook that profiles every cruising destination in the world is a companion volume to World Cruising Routes and World Voyage Planner. It contains information on all maritime nations of the world with details of local attractions, formalities, facilities, charter opportunities, useful websites and cruising guides. Lavishly illustrated throughout, this book is not only a must-have onboard reference manual for long-distance sailors, but will undoubtedly inspire the adventurous to explore new and challenging destinations.

Cornells’ Ocean Atlas

Pilot charts for all oceans of the world

Paperback: 978-1-9997229-0-6

Jimmy and Ivan Cornell have produced this global atlas of pilot charts aimed at sailors planning offshore voyages. Monthly charts of all oceans of the world show wind speed and direction, current speed and direction, the extent of the Intertropical Convergence Zone, the common tracks of tropical storms, and the mean location of high-pressure cells for each hemisphere. Now in its second edition, the pilot charts have been updated with the most recent weather data gathered by meteorological satellites. An indispensable tool for anyone planning an offshore passage and companion to World Cruising Routes and World Voyage Planner.

Sail The World With Me

A memoir by the most influential sailor of modern times

Paperback: 978-1-9160910-5-4

This book is based on Jimmy Cornell’s extensive knowledge of offshore cruising gained from an experience that stretches over five decades of roaming the oceans of the world, including three circumnavigations and voyages to Antarctica and the Arctic. Sail The World With Me deals with all essential aspects of offshore voyaging and long distance cruising. Every subject is dealt with in an informative and entertaining manner, backed up by telling incidents from the author’s wide-ranging experience. While primarily aimed at sailors who are planning or making preparations for a longer voyage, this book will also appeal to ocean navigators as well as weekend sailors.

For my grandchildren Nera and Dan who share my concern for the future of our planet

FOREWORD

As a young boy growing up in Romania, caged in by an Iron Curtain, which separated me from the rest of the world, planning imaginary journeys was the only way I was able to travel. I relieved my frustrations by making dream voyages to exotic places, tracing my finger along the routes I would take on an old atlas of the world. Route planning fascinated me then and has continued to do so, even after I gained my freedom and the world lay before me. As a voyage around the world became a possibility, a finger tracing a line on a map was no longer sufficient and I started planning my voyage in earnest. Soon, pencil marks on charts were to become sailing tracks across the oceans. My dreams had turned into reality.

These words are from the introduction to the first edition of this book published in 1987. It came into being as a result of my first round the world voyage on Aventura I and it was the book that I wished I had on that voyage. In the intervening years it has evolved naturally by keeping pace with my peripatetic life. Successive editions have marked significant stages in my own voyaging. The second edition, in 1990, coincided with the start of my second circumnavigation on Aventura II, some of it sailed as part of the first round the world rally. The third edition, in 1995, was expanded to take into account the observations I had made from the transatlantic and round the world rallies that I was running at the time. The next edition, in 1998, was barely finished when I set off on Aventura III to Antarctica and a transpacific voyage from there to Alaska. The fifth edition, in 2002, marked the start of my third round-the-world voyage. The sixth edition, in 2008, came out after the completion of that circumnavigation on Aventura III with many updates inspired by that experience. By 2014 and the seventh edition, I was on my way with Aventura IV to Greenland and the Northwest Passage. After an unsuccessful attempt to transit this challenging waterway from east to west, I sailed via the Panama Canal to Alaska and succeeded in completing a transit of the Northwest Passage from the Pacific to the Atlantic. The eighth edition was expanded to reflect the growing interest in sailing to more challenging high-latitude destinations. And that brings me to this edition, which was planned to coincide with a voyage along the historic route of the first circumnavigation 500 years ago. In tune with my concern for the state of the environment, the latest Aventura is a fully electric boat with a zero carbon dioxide footprint. Unfortunately the completion of that voyage was jeopardised by the coronavirus pandemic because of safety concerns in the countries along its route.

My concern for the current state of the oceans, and the environment generally, stems from my own observations during five decades of roaming the oceans of the world, and noticing the disastrous changes that have occurred over the years. The most obvious change was highlighted by my transit of the Northwest Passage, which was entirely due to the consequences of climate change. Few sailors would disagree that global weather conditions are undergoing a radical change, and it is now widely accepted that climate change is primarily the result of human activity. Indeed, while researching the latest state of global climate conditions for this edition, I was shocked at the changes that have occurred in the relatively short time span since the previous edition. As a result of the warming of the oceans, the frequency and force of hurricanes and cyclones has increased, while the melting of the Arctic and Antarctic ice caps is accelerating.

One significant change that has occurred recently is that at long last most people – and, even more relevant, the majority of governments – now recognize the threat posed by global warming, and the urgent need to tackle its causes before it is too late. This means that every one of us must do whatever we can to reduce our carbon footprint.

Besides the climate crisis, what the coronavirus pandemic has shown is that mankind is still vulnerable to natural phenomena, and if every one of us does not start playing our part in protecting the environment, sooner or later Nature will have the last word. Although we may be close to that point, it is in human nature to be optimistic and bold when faced with a challenge, so if we all rise to the occasion, we may be able to avoid this outcome.

On that note, I wish to reassure all those who are planning a voyage, that sailing on your own boat is still the best and most rewarding way to explore our planet.

Don’t leave it too late.

INTRODUCTION

The principal aim of this book is to provide essential information on winds, currents, regional and seasonal weather for planning a safe passage along well over 1000 sailing routes in all oceans of the world. With the help of the information contained in this book, I hope to make it easier for anyone who intends to undertake an ocean voyage to do all forward planning from the comfort of their home. Once the voyage has started, the book will continue to be useful in suggesting alternatives or detours from the main itinerary.

World Cruising Routes is a guide to sailing routes not a comprehensive pilot for the entire world, and its users are urged to refer to the relevant small-scale charts, monthly pilot charts and regional cruising guides before undertaking a particular passage. Because of the vast area covered by this book, only the basic data needed for planning an offshore passage could be included, as it would have been physically impossible to give detailed information about every route in one single volume. Therefore only general directions on how to sail from one destination to the next are included. These directions mention safe and dangerous seasons, prevailing winds and the kind of weather to be expected, as well as other useful factors. Whenever a particular aspect is debatable or variable, such as the beginning or end of the tropical storm season, the strength of a particular current or the frequency of gales in a specific area, I have preferred to err on the side of caution. For the same reason, I have concentrated more on giving details for what is considered to be the safe sailing season and less on weather conditions during unfavourable seasons. I believe that cruising should be a pleasurable activity, and because most unpleasant conditions can be avoided with good forward planning, this principle is applied throughout the book. The focus of this book are the tropical and temperate areas of the world, where most sailors intend to cruise, and where weather conditions during the recommended periods of the year are usually favourable. However, more challenging destinations are also included in response to the growing number of sailors determined to explore new areas off the beaten track.

As the main aim of this book is to enable the reader to plan a voyage from beginning to end, the information needed to do this is fourfold: general offshore weather conditions, descriptions of actual routes, dangers to be avoided, and some brief landfall information including recommended ports of entry. Every route mentions the best time for a passage to be made along that route and the season when tropical storms affect that particular region when such an area should be avoided. The extent of such seasons is given for the entire route, even if the point of departure or that of arrival is not itself subject to tropical storms but the threat of hurricanes does exist in some areas along that route. Also given are the great circle distances between principal ports, but as these distances are only meant for guidance, they are approximate, especially when the suggested route is not direct. Also indicated at the beginning of each route are the small-scale charts relevant to that part of the world. Both American and British charts are listed because certain parts of the world are covered better by one or the other hydrographic office. As there is as yet no standardised system for indexing electronic charts, only the numbers of paper charts are listed. Although chart numbers were correct at the time of going to press, some numbers are changed occasionally and this should be borne in mind, especially when ordering charts.

In all offshore passages, reference is made to the relevant section of World Voyage Planner. The relevant cruising guides for the port or country of destination are also listed. Most areas of the world, and certainly the popular cruising destinations, are now covered by some excellent publications. These are often of more help than the traditional sailing directions as they are geared to cruising boats and therefore feature information of immediate interest to those arriving in a foreign port on their own boat, such as sketch plans or aerial photographs of ports or marinas.

There are probably some sailors who expect a book of this kind to provide precise solutions for all their needs. Obviously this would be impossible, especially when dealing with something as inconsistent as winds and weather. Freak weather may occasionally occur in areas or on routes where favourable conditions can usually be expected. There is an infinite variety of circumstances that render it impossible to lay down any fixed rule that can be followed to advantage at all times. Therefore, in those cases in which a certain course is pointed out as being the best to be pursued, but this proves impossible to accomplish, it is always better to follow one’s instincts, even if it results in a detour or delay.

As well as drawing on a large variety of sources, much of the material included in this book was provided from my own voyaging. I have also received enormous help from my many sailing friends, particularly those who have ventured where I have not. In those areas, the faculty learned in my youth of transposing myself to unknown places has served me well. I am still tracing my finger along routes on charts, but this time with a little help from my friends.

EXPLANATORY NOTE

In order to organise both routes and waypoints in a logical manner, the world has been divided into three main regions: Atlantic (A), Pacific (P) and Indian (I). Each of the three oceans has been further divided into its two hemispheres, so that sailing routes are grouped in six main regions: North Atlantic (AN), South Atlantic (AS), North Pacific (PN), South Pacific (PS), North Indian (IN), and South Indian (IS). Every route within a region is identified by those two letters and its own number, thus AN46 Madeira to Gibraltar. Because they have certain features in common, transequatorial routes in every ocean have been dealt with separately and are identified by the letter ‘T’ preceded by the letter identifying the ocean in question, for example PT24 Hawaii to Marquesas. The Red Sea and Mediterranean have been included as separate regions. Because routes in the Red Sea are directional in character, they have been subdivided as northbound (RN) or southbound (RS). Similarly, Mediterranean routes are dealt with as separate groups and are identified by eastbound (ME) and westbound routes (MW).

Every one of the six main regions has been subdivided into individual groups, the routes included in those groups sharing certain common features. The numbering of the group reflects its particular region, thus PS60 groups all routes from New Zealand. Within this particular group there are eight routes, each having an individual identification number, for example PS64 New Zealand to Fiji.

Each individual route is preceded by a table that displays all essential information pertaining to that route: best time to sail it, tropical storm seasons, passage-planning charts and relevant cruising guides. Because there is not yet a unified system for the numbering of electronic charts, only the numbers of the relevant small-scale paper charts are indicated. High-quality electronic charts now cover the entire globe and those who use them are advised to always carry backup paper charts to cover some critical areas in case of a failure of the electronic system. Where relevant, reference is also made to the section of World Voyage Planner that should be consulted for more detailed planning information.

The waypoints are listed in five separate columns: start, departure, intermediate, landfall and arrival. Also listed are the coordinates of suggested ports of destination, usually those that are official ports of entry. Departure waypoints are normally located well outside the starting port and wherever possible in safe water clear of land and any obstructions. Similarly, landfall waypoints are given as close to land as it is normally safe to go before switching over to coastal navigation. Coordinates of both starting and arrival ports are given in italics, such as Whangarei 35°48.0’S, 174°26.0’E. The italicised script draws attention to the fact that the particular port cannot be reached directly from the landfall point and therefore its coordinates should not be used for navigation and simply fed into the automatic pilot.

Indeed, it is rarely possible to sail a direct course from a given landfall point to the nearest port of destination as, for example, the port of Whangarei is located several miles up a winding river. It is therefore hoped that no one will attempt to sail a direct course from the landfall waypoint off Bream Head in the approaches to Whangarei, right into the port of Whangarei itself. In the case of a number of ports, such as Whangarei, that can only be reached through a long and intricate channel, or are located upriver and far from the sea, the suffix X has been added after the name (Oslo X, London X).

In the case of multiple start or arrival ports, a certain waypoint is highlighted in bold to denote the point where the access routes from the various start ports merge with the main route, for example Sombrero E, or the common route divides to reach various arrival ports than can be reached from that point, for example Farewell SE.

Occasionally intermediate waypoints are enclosed by square brackets [Minerva North] to denote a suggested detour or stop, in this case the North Minerva Reef, which is a popular stop on the route from New Zealand to Fiji.

On many routes there is a choice of destinations, just as on other routes there is a choice of departure. For instance, boats sailing from Gibraltar to the Azores can clear in at either Ponta Delgada or Horta. Similarly, boats bound from Tonga for the Fijian capital Suva could take their departure from either Nuku’alofa or Neiafu. On other routes there are two or even three different ways of sailing that particular route, either because of seasonal differences or other considerations. In all such cases, the alternatives are listed separately and are given their own letter, for example route PS14A, route PS14B, etc. Waypoints are listed for each alternative route.

The recommended best time to sail a particular route is based on two essential factors: the safest time of the year and the most favourable weather conditions to be expected. The tropical storms information listed may occasionally show a longer period than the official tropical storm season for that part of the world. As in recent years tropical storms have occurred close to the start or the end of the safe sailing season, throughout this book the guiding principle when planning an ocean passage is to err on the safe side whenever possible.

Official ports of entry are mentioned at the end of all major routes, and suggestions are made as to which ports are easier to reach or more convenient to use for clearance purposes. Also indicated are the ports where the authorities need to be contacted in advance, any restrictions that must be observed and the recommended procedure on arrival. The requirement to give notice of arrival, which can differ from 24 to 96 hours in advance of ETA, is strictly applied. In some countries non-conformity with this regulation can result in substantial fines, even imprisonment and the confiscation of the boat.

Each group of routes is accompanied by a diagram showing a map of that particular region of the world and the relevant routes. Every route is identified by its individual number.

One new feature added to this edition is that of windgrams depicting a summary of wind conditions for the month when most passages are undertaken along some of the world’s most commonly sailed routes. These selected windgrams are a synthesis of the individual wind roses for that month extracted from the relevant pilot chart published in Cornells’ Ocean Atlas. The 136-page atlas contains detailed information on winds and currents for every month of the year and in every ocean.

Author’s note

The sketch maps accompanying the text are simple diagrams to show approximate positions of routes only. Since the coordinates of waypoints and any other coordinates listed in this book are only for planning purposes and must not be used for navigation, sailors using this book are strongly advised always to consult the latest charts for the areas they are sailing through or are planning to cruise. Sailors should also be aware that there are serious discrepancies between the position of certain reefs, rocks or even entire islands as depicted on some charts and their actual GPS-derived coordinates.

The safety of a vessel and its crew is the sole and inescapable responsibility of the captain who must do his/her best to ensure that the vessel is thoroughly prepared and crewed for long ocean passages. The description of any route outlined in this book is for planning purposes only and the decision to sail any such route is the sole and exclusive responsibility of each captain.

While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the data included in this volume, neither the publisher nor the author can assume any responsibility for possible errors made in these pages.

ROUTE PLANNING

The foremost aim of route planning is to be in the right place at the right time. By the same token, one should always do one’s best to avoid being in the wrong place at the wrong time. Therefore when planning an offshore passage, the most important thing is to make the best use of favourable winds and weather conditions by choosing a time and route that will minimise the chances of encountering bad weather.

The factors that have to be taken into account whether planning an extended voyage or just an offshore passage are generally known, or can be predicted with a certain level of accuracy. The wise navigator planning an offshore voyage will try to take full advantage of the favourable winds and currents and avoid encountering any extreme weather. An offshore cruising boat should be well enough constructed to be able to withstand the average gale, and fortunately along the routes described in this book the frequency of violent storms is extremely low during the accepted safe sailing season. The main danger to be aware of is tropical revolving storms, whether these are called hurricanes, cyclones, typhoons or willy-willies, but since these affect known areas during certain times of the year, they can be avoided. This is where advance route planning has a major role to play, as it is perfectly possible to plan a voyage to virtually any part of the world with no or little risk of encountering such a violent storm.

Another element that must be taken into account when planning a voyage is the areas of the world considered to be dangerous because of piracy, political instability, war or high criminality. Because of their human nature such dangers are more difficult to predict than natural phenomena, although the areas to be avoided are usually known and the sailing grapevine sounds warnings about areas that should be given a wide berth. Especially when planning a longer offshore voyage it is strongly recommended to prepare a plan B that can be activated in case the original route cannot be pursued due to unforeseen circumstances.

Yet in spite of all the information available and the fact that so much more is known about the weather systems of the world, cruising boats still come to grief every year, often because their skippers ignore all warnings and decide to spend the hurricane season in an area known to be hit by these violent storms.

When starting to plan a longer voyage one of the first requirements is to acquire small-scale charts for each of the oceans along the planned route. Planning a passage of several thousand miles on a small screen is practically impossible. A further advantage of using a paper chart is that, unlike electronic charts, it shows all known dangers to be avoided.

The usual charts are based on the Mercator projection. On these all meridians are represented as straight parallel lines that do not converge at the poles, as meridians do in reality. This means that any straight line drawn between two points on charts based on the Mercator projection is not necessarily the shortest distance between those two points, and although a ship that sails such a course will reach its destination, it will not be by the shortest route. To be able to sail more efficiently it is necessary to sail along the great circle route, which is the shortest distance between two points on the surface of the earth.

At this point, it may be worth taking a step back in the history of offshore navigation. The principles of great circle sailing have been known for a long time and it is believed that great navigators such as Columbus and Magellan may have been acquainted with the subject. The advantages of sailing along a great circle route were first mentioned in a work by the Portuguese mathematician Pedro Nunez in 1537.

It was about the same time that the Flemish mathematician Gerhard Mercator published a universal map on a projection that now bears his name. A course represented by a straight line on a Mercator chart is called a rhumb line and for short voyages sailing along such a line between the port of departure and that of arrival makes little difference. In order to find the shorter route for a longer passage, the same straight line will have to be drawn on a gnomonic chart, which uses a different projection with meridians converging at the poles and parallels of latitude represented by curved lines. Any straight line on a gnomonic chart is part of a great circle and is indeed the shortest distance between the two points joined by that line. Because gnomonic charts cannot be used for navigation, the great circle track drawn on such a chart has to be transferred to a Mercator chart.

This is a rather cumbersome method of finding the great circle track for any chosen route and is now done by GPS, which gives both the great circle course and distance to the next destination with the added advantage of these values being constantly updated.

The purchase of gnomonic charts is therefore no longer necessary for those who intend to calculate their great circle course by other means, although acquiring the pilot charts for the oceans that will be crossed is essential. Pilot charts, also referred to as routeing charts, have been the most important passage-planning tool since the middle of the 19th century. Pilot charts are issued for all oceans of the world and give monthly averages of wind direction and strength, currents, percentages of calms and gale force winds, and tropical storm tracks. The first systematic study of ships’ sailing routes, and the weather conditions that affect them, was undertaken in the 19th century by Captain Maury of the US Navy with the aid of shipmasters’ logbooks. Although the pilot charts have been updated at regular intervals, the climate changes that have occurred over the years have rendered most of the information shown on those charts no longer accurate. To present as true a picture as possible of the actual conditions that prevail in today’s oceans, the pilot charts in Cornells’ Ocean Atlas are based on the latest weather information gathered by a network of meteorological satellites during the last 30 years.

With the help of World Voyage Planner, the relevant pilot charts for the area to be sailed and the description of individual routes contained in this book, planning a voyage can start in earnest. The importance of long-term or forward planning can be seen from the following examples. Presuming that a cruise of a few months is planned in the Lesser Antilles, the order in which the islands are visited should be determined by subsequent plans. Most people leave from the Canaries concerned only with crossing the Atlantic by the fastest and most convenient route, their landfall in the Caribbean being decided by many factors, but not always by long-term considerations. If one is planning to sail to Europe or the USA at the end of the cruising season in the Caribbean, the logical way to cruise the islands is from south to north, so that the same ground will not be covered twice. On the other hand, if the voyage will continue in the Pacific and a transit of the Panama Canal is planned, it makes more sense to end the transatlantic crossing in one of the islands further north, such as Antigua or Martinique, and then sail down the chain of islands towards Grenada and turn west to Panama from there. Such a route would ensure better winds when sailing among the Lesser Antilles and also a shorter passage to Panama when the time arrives. An additional advantage of this route is the fact that the southernmost part of the Caribbean is rarely affected by hurricanes, so that if the cruise is delayed for any reason, the boat will be in a relatively safe place.

An even better example of forward planning is that of a voyage across the entire width of the South Pacific. In spite of the huge distance between Panama and the Torres Strait, boats regularly cover the 9000 miles in one season whether bound for South Africa or the Red Sea. Such a tight schedule is particularly important for the former as it is dictated by the need to be through the Torres Strait by August or September in order to benefit from favourable conditions in the South Indian Ocean. Even so, a sustained rhythm will need to be kept up while crossing that ocean so as to reach South Africa by early November before the onset of the new cyclone season.

Those planning to continue their voyage via the North Indian Ocean to the Mediterranean have more time in hand as they only need to pass through the Torres Strait by October so as to benefit from the favourable season on the subsequent passage to the Red Sea.

Reliance on auxiliary engines has become an accepted part of modern cruising and this is the reason why on certain routes skippers were advised to have a reserve of fuel, as this could make a great difference to the duration of a long passage. The convenience of being able to motor through the doldrums is one such instance, as is the ability to power against a strong outflowing current to enter a lagoon that otherwise could not be accessed. Much of this is still true but what has changed is the concern for the environment, shared by most sailors. We are all aware of the damage caused by fossil fuels and the importance of limiting their use by resorting to renewable sources of energy. Most cruising boats are now equipped with solar panels and hydro-generators, and make a significant contribution to the onboard electricity consumption. Hybrid or fully electric propulsion systems are already in use on sailing boats. My latest Aventura has shown that cruising with zero carbon dioxide emissions is indeed possible, and this is what we should be aiming for.

An important element of advance planning is being aware of official requirements in the countries to be visited and knowing where you may need visas, vaccinations or cruising permits. In spite of sailing boats being able to visit more countries than in the past, in many places formalities continue to be strict. The captain must be aware of specific requirements and the location of the official ports of entry; ignorance of local regulations is not accepted as an excuse. As part of forward planning, you may need to make a detour to a country where there is a diplomatic mission issuing the necessary visa. Choosing the right place, ideally close to an international airport, is equally important when picking up or dropping off crew. Just as important for long-term cruisers is planning regular overhauls in places with good repair facilities.

These are some of the factors that can have a bearing on planning, both in the short and long term. However, what is needed at all times, and especially once a cruise has started, is a good dose of common sense, which will help solve most problems. Nowhere is this more true than in the realm of navigation, particularly in view of the current reliance on GPS navigation. For example, if one is not too sure about the position of a certain reef or island, or any other danger, it is generally safer to assume that the latitude stated is more accurate than the longitude. The coordinates of most of these dangers were calculated by navigators before the advent of precise modern instruments, and some charts of remote areas have yet to be corrected. This is why it is still perfectly valid to use the practice of the masters of the old sailing ships, who always tried to ‘run down’ the latitude of a given place, so as to maximise the chances of finding it. On the other hand, if one wishes to steer clear of a certain danger, the main thing to avoid is its latitude. As many ocean passages along the popular cruising routes are from east to west, this means that it should not be too difficult to choose a safe latitude and stay on it to bypass a known danger.

The influence that such common sense can have on good seamanship is illustrated by examples from my surveys on various aspects of long-distance cruising. A significant conclusion I drew after talking to a great number of experienced sailors was that one of the most important qualities to have while sailing is patience. Respect for the powers of nature is just as important and this is probably the explanation why, by tradition, sailors would always say that they are ‘bound for’ a certain destination and never that they are sailing ‘to’ it. Many things can happen to affect the outcome of a voyage and careful planning has a major part to play in bringing a ship safely home.

Aventura Zero

WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE WORLD

The importance of knowing the prevailing winds in certain areas of the world was already recognised by the Portuguese and Spanish navigators of the 15th and 16th centuries, and their findings were kept a closely guarded secret for a long time. The first transatlantic voyage by Christopher Columbus has proved that an initial course from mainland Spain to the Canaries would benefit from favourable winds to the newly discovered islands of the Caribbean, whereas a northerly sweep was to be preferred for the return voyage to Europe. Similarly, in the Pacific, early Spanish navigators demonstrated that a voyage from east to west across the South Pacific was a relatively easy matter if one stayed within the SE trade winds. However, a return voyage against the same trade winds proved impossible until the Spanish navigator Andrés de Urdaneta discovered the westerly winds of higher latitudes, which came to be called the anti-trades or passage winds.

This worldwide wind pattern has thus been known for a long time and countless navigators have made use of this knowledge over the centuries. In his Memoir Descriptive and Explanatory of the Northern Atlantic Ocean, published in 1873, Alexander George Findlay succinctly describes this wind pattern in the following words:

It has been well observed that the wind systems of our globe naturally govern the tracks of ships crossing the oceans, the trade winds carrying them from east to west within the tropics, while anti-trade or passage winds will bring them back again eastward beyond the tropics. If it were not for the intervening belt of calms, sailing directions for vessels going into opposite hemispheres would be of the simplest kind; but the well-known Equatorial embarrassments – ‘the doldrums’ – generally make a very different matter of it, and cause many considerations to enter into the problem of shaping a course.

The three main factors that influence the formation and direction of the wind are atmospheric pressure, air temperature and the rotation of the earth. The primary cause of wind is a difference of temperature. This in its turn leads to a difference in atmospheric pressure mainly because of the tendency of warm air to rise, which is then replaced by cold air drawn from elsewhere. Air also tends to flow from an area of high pressure to one of low pressure. Permanent areas of high pressure are situated between approximately the latitudes of 20º and 40º, both north and south of the equator. On either side of these cells of high pressure there are areas of low pressure. If it were not for the rotation of the earth, the wind direction would be either north or south, from an area of high pressure to one of low pressure, but because the earth is rotating on its axis in an easterly direction, air that is drawn towards a centre of low pressure is deflected to the right in the northern hemisphere and to the left in the southern one. The result of this movement in the northern hemisphere is the anticlockwise circulation of wind around a low-pressure area and the clockwise rotation of wind around a high-pressure area. The opposite is the case in the southern hemisphere, where the wind circulates in a clockwise direction around a low-pressure area and in an anticlockwise direction around a high-pressure area.

Diagrams 1 to 4 show the way in which winds on the equatorial side of the high-pressure belts blow towards the equator from a NE direction in the northern hemisphere and from a SE direction in the southern hemisphere. North and south of those areas of high pressure the winds in both hemispheres are predominantly westerly. In many areas these systems are distorted by landmasses, which are subjected to more pronounced differences of temperature and barometric pressure than the oceans. The wind systems are also affected by the seasons, since the annual movement of the sun causes the areas of high pressure to move towards the poles in the summer. Because of this movement, the wind systems associated with these areas of high pressure, particularly the trade winds, tend to travel a few degrees south or north with the sun.

Trade winds

These steady winds, which blow on either side of the equatorial doldrums, were so called because of the assistance they gave to the trade of sailing ships. These regular winds are usually NE in the northern hemisphere and SE in the southern hemisphere. They rarely reach gale force and on average blow at force 4 to 5. The weather associated with the trade winds is usually pleasant, with blue skies and fluffy cumulus clouds. The barometric pressure within the trade wind belt is steady, interrupted only by a pressure wave, which causes a slight rise and fall of the barometer every 12 hours. If the diurnal movement of the barometer ceases, or if it is very pronounced, a tropical disturbance can be expected. The entire trade wind belt, including the Intertropical Convergence Zone (doldrums) that lies between the two systems, moves north and south during the year. This movement is influenced by the movement of the sun, although there can be a delay of up to two months between the movement of the sun itself and that of the doldrums. The trade winds are less steady in the vicinity of the ITCZ.

Prevailing wind systems January to March

Prevailing wind systems April to June

Prevailing wind systems July to September

Prevailing wind systems October to December

Intertropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ)

This area of low barometric pressure lying between the trade wind regions of the two hemispheres is also known as the equatorial trough or, more commonly, as the doldrums. The winds in this area are either light or non-existent and the weather is sultry and hot. The only interruptions are occasional squalls and thunderstorms, when rain can be very heavy. The extent of the doldrums varies greatly from year to year and season to season. Although the doldrums have earned their bad reputation because of the frequent calms, doldrums weather can sometimes be particularly unpleasant, with violent squalls and raging thunderstorms. Weather in the doldrums tends to be worse when the trade winds blow at their strongest.

Variable winds

A zone of light and variable winds extends on the polar sides of the trade winds, corresponding more or less with the high-pressure areas of the two hemispheres, approximately between latitudes 25º and 35º. These zones were given the name of Horse Latitudes, because sailing ships that were becalmed in these areas were sometimes forced to kill the animals on board due to the lack of drinking water.

Westerly winds

The higher latitudes of both hemispheres have a large proportion of westerly winds, which prevail north and south of latitude 35º. Westerly winds are stronger and more predominant in the Southern Ocean, where they often blow with gale force from the same direction for several days. Because of the more extensive landmasses in the northern hemisphere, the westerlies of the northern oceans are lighter and less consistent.

Monsoons

Seasonal winds are experienced in several areas of the world, the name ‘monsoon’ deriving from the Arabic word meaning ‘season’. Such winds blow consistently from one direction for one season and after a short interruption blow with equal consistency from the opposite direction. The most important regions affected by such seasonal winds are the Indian Ocean and West Pacific Ocean.

Depressions

A depression is an area of low barometric pressure that is usually responsible for periods of unsettled weather, although not all depressions are accompanied by strong winds. Depressions occur most frequently in middle and higher latitudes, although the most severe storms encountered at sea are those formed in the low latitudes and are of a revolving nature. Most depressions move in an easterly direction, a few moving in other directions at times. The speed at which they move can vary from very little to 40 knots or more. Usually depressions last about four to five days and their movement gradually slows down as they fill and the pressure rises.

The strength of the wind generated by a depression is dictated by the closeness of the isobars, which can be seen on a synoptic chart as lines joining areas of equal barometric pressure. The closer the isobars are bunched up together, the stronger the wind. The approach of a depression is always indicated by a falling barometer and usually by a change in the aspect of the sky and cloud formation. It may be worthwhile studying this aspect of meteorology, so as to be able to predict the kind of wind and weather to expect both on passage and in port.

Tropical squalls

This is a common phenomenon encountered in the tropics, especially below latitude 20º. These linear disturbances travel from east to west at 20–25 knots and are usually perpendicular to the direction of the prevailing wind. They are accompanied by thundery and squally weather. The first indication of an approaching line squall is a heavy band of cumulonimbus to the east. The wind is usually light or calm and the atmosphere oppressive. As the cloud approaches it becomes dark and menacing with occasional thunder and lightning. The bottom of the cloud has the appearance of a straight line but it sometimes changes to an arch as it passes overhead. Suddenly there is a blast of wind from an easterly direction, which on average rises to 25 to 30 knots, although occasionally it can be much stronger. Shortly after the blast of wind, it starts to rain heavily. Such squalls last on average about half an hour, although sometimes they may last longer. The barometer does not indicate their approach, so they can only be detected visually, although they also show up on radar. As some of these squalls can be quite vicious, it is prudent in squall-prone areas to reduce sail at night, when their approach is more difficult to detect. In the North Atlantic, line squalls occur especially at the beginning and end of the rainy season (May to October) and are particularly violent near the African coast. In the South Pacific, squalls can occur at all times, although as a rule they are not as violent as those in the North Atlantic Ocean. Line squalls are less of a problem during the NE monsoon of the North Indian Ocean, but can be violent during the opposite SW monsoon.

Tornadoes

Tornadoes and waterspouts occur in the same areas and during the same season as tropical storms. They usually travel in the same direction as the prevailing wind and their approach can normally be seen, especially as they rarely form at night. The wind generated by a tornado can be extremely violent, but as the actual area covered is very small, the chance of being hit by such a whirlwind at sea is quite remote. Waterspouts sometimes occur during afternoon thunderstorms near the coast, the ocean side of Chesapeake Bay being particularly vulnerable during the summer months.

Tsunamis

These are large waves caused by an earthquake that can occur thousands of miles from the place where the destructive effects of the gigantic wave are felt. Tsunamis occur mostly in the Pacific Ocean, and ports both on the continents and islands have been hit by tsunamis over the centuries. There have been six destructive tsunamis in Hawaii in the last 50 years. The most devastating tsunami in recent years occurred in December 2004 and affected a large area of the Indian Ocean from Thailand to Somalia. Most of the estimated 200,000 fatalities were recorded in Sumatra, Sri Lanka, Phuket and the Nicobar and Andaman Islands, which were closest to the epicentre of the earthquake. Marinas in Malaysia and Thailand suffered badly but boats anchored in deeper water escaped mostly unscathed.

Japan was hit by a 9.0 magnitude earthquake on 11 March 2011 that triggered a deadly 8-metre-high tsunami that devastated a large area in NE Japan with the loss of some 20,000 lives. Severe damage was caused to the Fukushima nuclear power plant. The effects of the tsunami were felt as far as the coast of Oregon in the USA. Indonesia was affected by several tsunamis in recent years, the most destructive affecting the island of Sulawesi in early October 2018 with several thousand people losing their lives. On 30 October 2020 a powerful tsunami in the Aegean Sea affected the Greek island of Samos and the coastal area of Izmir in Turkey. In March 2021 a tsunami triggered by an 8.1 earthquake near the Kermadec Islands in the South Pacific affected coastal areas of New Zealand.

Tropical revolving storms

Tropical revolving storms are the most violent storms that can be encountered at sea and it is wise to try to avoid the areas and seasons where such storms occur. The extremely strong winds generated by these storms and the huge seas they raise can easily overwhelm a small boat. Depending on which part of the world they occur in, these storms are known as hurricanes, cyclones, typhoons or willy-willies. They blow around an area of low pressure, the rotation being anticlockwise in the northern hemisphere and clockwise in the southern hemisphere. The wind does not move around the centre in concentric circles but has a spiral movement, being sucked in towards the core of the storm.

World distribution of tropical storms

Usually these storms occur on the western sides of the oceans, although they are also found in other parts of the world. They usually form between latitudes 7º and 15º on either side of the equator, but there have been many instances when tropical storms formed closer to the equator. The breeding ground of tropical storms is the Intertropical Convergence Zone, where the two opposing trade wind systems converge. Under certain conditions of barometric pressure, temperature and moisture, the resulting whirlpool of air created at the point of convergence develops into a severe tropical revolving storm. The most dangerous areas affected by such storms are the Western North Atlantic from Grenada to Cape Hatteras, the Western North Pacific from Guam to Japan, the South Pacific from Tonga to the Coral Sea, the north and northwest coasts of Australia, the Southwest Indian Ocean and the Bay of Bengal.

As a result of recent global climate changes, in some parts of the world tropical storms can occur outside the known dangerous season, which usually coincides with the summer months. In the North Atlantic and South Pacific, the cyclone season now lasts longer than in the past, while in the North Pacific the force of typhoons seems to be on the increase, with some super-typhoons having gusts of close to 200 knots. Because the tropical storm seasons are impossible to define accurately, the period indicated at the beginning of each route is only approximate. It is therefore stressed that in most oceans tropical storms can occur outside the listed months and therefore this should be borne in mind if a passage is planned at the start or at the end of the accepted tropical storm season.

In addition to their circular motion, tropical revolving storms also have a forward movement. In the northern hemisphere the movement is initially WNW, storms recurving gradually to the N and NE as they reach higher latitudes. In the southern hemisphere the initial movement is WSW, storms recurving to the SE as they approach latitude 20ºS. Sometimes a storm does not recurve but continues in a WNW direction in the northern hemisphere, or a WSW direction in the southern hemisphere, until it reaches the continental landmass where it gradually breaks up. Occasionally the storm meanders erratically and its direction is often impossible to predict with certainty. The speed at which a storm is moving is normally about 10 knots in the early stages and accelerates after recurving.

Any boat lying in the path of a tropical revolving storm, particularly its centre, will be in serious danger. The wind remains constant in direction until the eye has passed, then, after a brief calm, the wind returns from the opposite direction, possibly with greater violence, creating rough and confused seas or putting vessels at anchor on a dangerous lee shore. Every storm has two sides, or semicircles, known as the navigable semicircle and the dangerous semicircle (see diagram). In the northern hemisphere, the dangerous semicircle is the half of the storm lying on the right-hand side of the track in the direction in which the storm is moving. In the southern hemisphere, the dangerous semicircle is on the left.

The forecasting and tracking of tropical storms has greatly improved since the advent of weather satellites. It is therefore possible to plot the course of an approaching storm and take the best avoiding action. The path of the storm in relation to the vessel’s latest position will show the degree of danger. If one is at sea, the best course of action is as follows.

Northern hemisphere

When facing the wind, the centre of the storm will be between 90º and 135º on the right of the observer. If the wind veers, i.e. shifts to the right, the boat is in the right-hand semicircle, which is the dangerous semicircle. A backing wind is associated with the navigable semicircle. If the direction of the wind is constant, its strength increases and the barometer falls, the boat is exactly in the path of the storm. If the direction of the wind is not changing, but its strength decreases while the barometer slowly rises, the boat is directly behind the centre.

The generally accepted tactic for vessels caught in the path of a tropical storm is to run off on the starboard tack by keeping the wind on the starboard quarter. The same tactic should be applied if the boat is in the navigable semicircle, when one should try and follow a course at right angles to the assumed track of the storm. Depending on the boat’s behaviour in a quartering sea and the strength of the wind, one should try to run either under bare poles or storm jib. If the boat is in the dangerous semicircle one should heave to on the starboard tack or, if possible, sail close hauled on the same tack, with the object of moving away from the storm centre.

Tropical storm tactics – northern hemisphere

Southern hemisphere

South of the equator, the centre of a tropical storm is between 90º and 135º on the left of the observer. If the wind is backing, the boat is in the dangerous semicircle; if it veers, the boat is in the navigable semicircle. The vessel is directly in the path of the storm if the wind is constant in direction. An increasing velocity combined with a falling barometer means that the boat is in front of the storm; a decreasing wind speed and a rising barometer means that the observer is behind the centre.

The best tactic if one is directly in front of the storm is to run with the wind on the port quarter. The same tactic should be applied if the boat is in the navigable semicircle, by trying to run away from the storm at right angles to its assumed track, also with the wind on the port quarter. If the boat is in the dangerous semicircle, one should try and sail close hauled on the port tack so as to proceed away from the storm centre. If this is not possible, the boat should heave to on the port tack.

Although these general rules are applicable in most situations, there can be circumstances when they should not be followed without question. Tropical storm strategy depends on many factors, such as the lack of sea room or the behaviour of a particular boat when hove to in strong winds or running before big quartering or following seas. Such considerations will dictate a different approach to the problem and there is unfortunately no overall rule that can be applied at all times. There is no doubt that the safest course of action is to avoid altogether the areas where tropical storms are likely to occur. Therefore the most important consideration when drawing up plans for a voyage is to make sure that the boat will not be in an area affected by tropical storms during the dangerous season. If planning to pass through an area that is never entirely free from tropical storms, the attempt should be made to sail during the months of lowest frequency. Such a strategy is not too complicated to follow and many boats have spent several years cruising in the tropics without ever being in the wrong place at the wrong time, simply by leaving the hurricane zone during the dangerous season and returning at the end of it. The directions given for various cruising routes mention the hurricane-prone months, so that these can be avoided when planning a cruise along those routes.

Tropical storm tactics – southern hemisphere

The only tropical area where hurricanes were unknown until recently was the South Atlantic, but Hurricane Catarina, which developed off the coast of Brazil in March 2004, may have heralded a climate change. In the Western North Pacific no month is considered to be entirely safe, although typhoons are rare in winter. In the Coral Sea, extra-seasonal cyclones are not uncommon and have been recorded as late as June and even July. It is not uncommon for tropical storms to develop outside the official seasons and the early part of the safe season should be treated with caution. The diagram shows the world distribution of tropical storms and the months when they are most likely to occur.

Area | Season | Highest frequency
Western North Atlantic | June to November | Mid-August to October
Eastern North Pacific | May to November | July to September
Northwest Pacific | All the year | July to October
North Indian Ocean | April to July | May to December
Bay of Bengal | April to July | June to July
| October to December | November to December
Arabian Sea | May to July | May to June
| September to December | November
South Indian Ocean | November to May | Mid-January to March
Western South Pacific | November to May | January to March
Eastern South Pacific | November to April | January to March
Extra-seasonal tropical storms are mentioned in the chapters describing weather conditions in each ocean.

Currents of the world

Currents occur at all depths of the oceans, but the only ones of real interest to the small-boat voyager are the surface currents. Because the main cause of surface currents is the direction of the wind, there is a close relationship between their direction and that of the prevailing wind. Constant winds, such as the trade winds, create some of the most constant currents, although these do not always follow exactly the direction of the wind that has generated them. As in the case of the winds, the rotation of the earth has an effect on currents too and therefore in the northern hemisphere currents tend to flow to the right of the direction of the wind, and in the southern hemisphere to the left. This is the reason why in the northern hemisphere the currents flow in a clockwise direction, while in the southern hemisphere currents generally tend to follow an anticlockwise direction. Currents are described in more detail for each ocean in the relevant section.

El Niño and La Niña

This phenomenon occurs along the west coast of South America and is now known to affect weather conditions throughout the world. Its Spanish name derives from the fact that in certain years, around the time of Christmas, the cold north-flowing Humboldt Current was reversed by a warm south-flowing current and, because of the time of year, was named after the Holy Child. El Niño brought havoc to the region every few years, but it was not until the widespread devastations caused by it in 1982–1983 and 1997–1998 that the global implications of this natural phenomenon were finally recognised. It is now accepted that El Niño affects weather far beyond the South Pacific. It is still impossible to predict exactly when a new El Niño will occur, but the 20th century saw altogether 28 periods, so on average El Niño can be expected to strike every three or four years. Nevertheless, during an El Niño period, sailing in, or close to, the cyclone season should be avoided and, if at all possible, one should attempt to spend the critical period outside the tropical Pacific Ocean. The latest El Niño episode occurred between 2014 and 2016, with a weak phenomenon occurring in 2019. When the ocean temperatures revert to a colder period this is now commonly referred to as La Niña. During a period of La Niña, the sea surface temperature across the equatorial Eastern Pacific Ocean can be lower than normal by 3–5°C. During a La Niña episode, the mass of colder water from the Eastern South Pacific is pushed westwards by the easterly winds and accumulates in the NW parts of the South Pacific, such as the Coral Sea. The rapid evaporation of the cold water as it collides with the warm air mass can cause widespread climatic disturbances. This happened during the La Niña episode, in January 2011, when torrential rains caused disastrous flooding from Queensland to Sri Lanka. The latest Niña episode occurred in 2020 and is believed to have been a major factor in making the 2020 North Atlantic hurricane season the most active on record.

Climate change

Much has been written about this recent phenomenon and few sailors would disagree that global weather conditions seem to be undergoing a radical change. What is no longer acceptable to deny is that there has been a significant change in weather patterns during the last decade. This has been marked by violent storms in what used to be regarded as the safe season, heavy rainfall and floods in countries where such phenomena were quite unknown, the absence of steady trade winds even on such previously reliable routes as that between South Africa and St Helena, and a visible reduction of both the Antarctic and Arctic ice caps. Although some people still refuse to take notice of what leading meteorologists have been saying for several years, weather patterns are changing and there is no longer any excuse for not taking climate change warnings seriously. This affects sailors on small boats perhaps more than anyone else, so it is worth heeding these warnings and being even more cautious than in the past. Some of the most relevant recent examples are mentioned in the chapters describing weather conditions in each ocean.

Global weather conditions have seen major changes in recent years especially in the location, frequency, strength and extra-seasonal occurrence of tropical cyclones. In this edition, all relevant dates of both safe and critical seasons have been amended in each hemisphere according to the latest information available, but even so readers are strongly advised to be extremely cautious when planning to or actually sailing through a potentially dangerous area. It is also advisable to avoid arriving in a cyclone-prone area too soon after the start of the safe season and to leave too close to the end of it.

As a sign of the intensification of the climate emergency, 2020 witnessed several destructive cyclonic storms throughout the world.

The 2020 Atlantic hurricane season was the most active on record. Of the 30 named storms, 13 developed into hurricanes, and six intensified into super-hurricanes, with Hurricane Iota attaining category 5 on 16 November. This made 2020 the only recorded season with two major hurricanes in November.

In early January 2019 Typhoon Pabuk became the earliest tropical storm in the Western Pacific Ocean. It crossed the Gulf of Siam and entered the North Indian Ocean on 4 January. In February, Typhoon Wutip intensified into a super typhoon becoming the strongest February typhoon on record.

In the South Pacific, Cyclones Lili and Ann occurred in early May 2019 in the northern part of the Coral Sea and moved west affecting southern Indonesia.

In the North Indian Ocean the season was one of the most active on record with seven cyclones, six of them intensifying to very severe cyclonic storms.

In recent years the Mediterranean has experienced violent revolving storms similar to Atlantic hurricanes and known as a ‘medicane’. These powerful storms usually happen during the months of September and October, when sea surface temperatures in the Mediterranean are still quite warm, although they can occur at any time of year. As a result of climate change, warmer sea surface temperatures in the Mediterranean can allow storms to take on tropical characteristics, increasing the wind speeds, making the storms more intense and causing heavy rainfalls.

Medicane Ianos occurred in September 2020 with winds of over 60 knots. Similar storms in 2018 and 2019 struck Greece and Egypt, each releasing several months’ worth of rain and resulting in landslides and flooding.

Also due to global warming, new data shows that the Gulf Stream is at its weakest in more than a millennium. It is already increasing the risk of stronger hurricanes and higher sea levels on the US east coast. It may also bring more intense winters as well as heat waves and droughts across Europe.

WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC

The northeast trade winds

The NE trade winds extend in a wide belt north of the equator reaching from the west coast of Africa to the Caribbean Sea. They blow for most of the year on the south side of the anticyclone which is situated in about latitude 30°N, commonly known as the Azores High. The northern limit of the trade winds is around latitude 25°N in winter and 30°N in summer, although the constancy of the trade winds cannot be relied on near their northern limits. The consistency and reliability of the NE trade winds are of particular interest to those who intend to make a transatlantic voyage along the classic route starting in the Canaries. Although the winter months are reputed to have the most consistent winds, there are years in which these winds are found in lower latitudes than normal and it is not unusual for boats to cover almost half the distance to the Caribbean before falling in with steady winds. It is therefore advisable to be certain the trade winds area has been reached before turning west.

The constancy of the trade winds improves during the winter months as does their strength. Although the average strength of these winds is force 3–4, it is not uncommon for them to reach force 6 and even 7 from January to March. The trade winds tend to be lighter and less consistent in summer, which is also the hurricane season. They have more of a northerly component in the eastern part of the ocean and become increasingly easterly in the Caribbean.

The intertropical convergence zone

The extent of the trade winds is influenced at all times of the year by the position of the ITCZ. The ITCZ stays north of the equator throughout the year, although its position varies greatly, both in accordance with the seasonal movement of the sun and also on a diurnal basis. The width of the doldrums is also variable and averages between 200 and 300 miles, although it tends to be wider near the African coast and narrower near Brazil. The weather inside the doldrums belt is more turbulent in the eastern part of the ocean than in the west, with frequent squalls and thunderstorms occurring.

The southwest monsoon

The heat generated by the landmass of Africa during the summer lowers the barometric pressure over that area and causes the ITCZ to be deflected towards the north. The SE trade winds of the South Atlantic are thus drawn across the equator and arrive off the coast of Africa as the SW monsoon. It lasts from June to October between the equator and as far north as latitude 15ºN, but in the Gulf of Guinea light SW winds prevail throughout the year.

Variables

A band of variable winds extends across the Atlantic to the north of the NE trade winds. This is the area of high atmospheric pressure which straddles the 30ºN parallel, being situated slightly to the north of it in summer and to the south in winter. The winds in the eastern half of this area are usually northerly and can be regarded as an extension of the trade winds. In the western part of the ocean the winds are often very light and long periods of calms are common. This is the area of the Horse Latitudes and the infamous Sargasso Sea where sailing ships used to be becalmed for days on end.

Westerlies

Westerly winds predominate in the northern part of the Atlantic Ocean, where the weather is often unsettled, mainly due to the almost continuous passage of depressions that race across the ocean in an easterly direction. The winds in these higher latitudes are less constant in direction than those of the Roaring Forties of the Southern Ocean, although the predominant direction is westerly.

Regional winds

A local phenomenon in the Canary Islands is the sudden gusts of wind caused by the high islands. The worst wind acceleration zones are in the channels between the islands and the sudden blasts are called ‘mosquitoes’ by local sailors as they are only heard when they bite. The wind strength can go up by between 10 and 20 knots and the only warning is a darkening and rippling of the surface of the sea in the direction of the prevailing wind.

Also described as trade winds are the Portuguese trades which blow from between NE and NW off the west coast of the Iberian Peninsula from April to September or October. Another regional variation of the NE trade winds is the harmattan. This is a hot and dry wind, created by the NE trade winds blowing over the deserts of Africa and reaching the sea laden with dust around latitude 20ºN. This easterly wind normally occurs between November and February.

Other regional phenomena associated with the area, which is normally under the influence of the prevailing NE winds, are the strong northerly winds commonly known as northers. During the winter months vast anticyclones develop over the North American continent occasionally reaching as far as the Gulf of Mexico. A strong northerly flow of cold air develops ahead of this area of high pressure, and becomes a violent norther, which is sometimes felt as far away as the Caribbean. The progress of a norther is usually checked by the higher islands of Hispaniola and Cuba, but to the north of these islands it can be particularly dangerous, mainly because of the steep seas that are created when a strong norther blows against the north-flowing Gulf Stream. The approach of a norther is usually heralded by a heavy bank of cloud on the N or NW horizon.

Tropical squalls

This is a common phenomenon encountered in the tropics, especially below latitude 20º. These linear disturbances travel from east to west at 20–25 knots and are usually perpendicular to the direction of the prevailing wind. They are accompanied by thundery and squally weather. The first indication of an approaching line squall is a heavy band of cumulonimbus to the east. The wind is usually light or calm and the atmosphere oppressive. As the cloud approaches it becomes dark and menacing with occasional thunder and lightning. The bottom of the cloud has the appearance of a straight line hence the common description ‘line squall’, although it sometimes changes to an arch as it passes overhead. Its arrival is heralded by a sudden blast of wind from an easterly direction, which on average rises to 25–30 knots, although occasionally it can be much stronger. Shortly after the blast of wind, it starts to rain heavily. Such squalls last on average about half an hour, although sometimes they may last longer. The barometer does not indicate their approach, therefore they can only be detected visually, although they show up on radar. As some of these squalls can be quite vicious, it is prudent in squall-prone areas to reduce sail at night, when their approach is more difficult to detect.

Hurricanes

A large area of the Western North Atlantic is affected by tropical revolving storms, which can occur theoretically at any time as hurricanes have been recorded over the last few centuries in every month of the year, although very rarely in winter months. The official dates for the hurricane season are from 1 June to 30 November, the highest frequency occurring from August to October, with a lower number occurring in the rest of the season. Both the frequency and intensity of hurricanes vary greatly from year to year, some years being extremely bad with up to a record 30 hurricanes in 2020.

Most hurricanes are born in the doldrums area south of the Cape Verde Islands. They usually travel west towards the Caribbean, the area most affected by hurricanes being the Caribbean Basin, particularly the northern part of the Lesser Antilles, the Virgins, the Bahamas, Bermuda, the Gulf of Mexico and Florida. At the beginning and end of the hurricane season, these storms sometimes develop in the Western Caribbean, from where they move in a northerly direction mainly affecting the southern states of the USA. The later months of the season are particularly dangerous for those sailing in the Caribbean, as September and October hurricanes usually develop locally and warnings are shorter. Therefore if one intends to sail in the Caribbean during the hurricane season, especially in the Lesser Antilles, it is safer to plan to do so at the beginning of the hurricane season (June) rather than towards its end (October). The high-frequency months of August and particularly September should be avoided altogether.

The 2017 Atlantic hurricane season was a hyperactive and extremely destructive season, featuring 17 named storms, and ranked as the fifth most active season since records began in 1851. All ten of the season’s hurricanes occurred in a row, the greatest number of consecutive hurricanes in the satellite era, and the largest number of consecutive hurricanes ever observed in the Atlantic basin.

The tropical storm season started on 20 April with Arlene which passed to the west of the Azores Islands. It was followed by Tropical Storm Bret, which struck the island of Trinidad on 20 June, the first hurricane to directly affect that island since 1933. In late September, Hurricane Maria became the first Category 5 hurricane to strike the island of Dominica, causing widespread devastation. In early October, Hurricane Nate became the first hurricane to strike Panama and Costa Rica. One week later, Hurricane Ophelia became the easternmost major hurricane in the Atlantic basin on record, and later impacted most of Northern Europe as an extra-tropical cyclone. The latest ever tropical storm recorded in the North Atlantic was Hurricane Otto, which formed in the SW Caribbean on 20 November, intensified to a category 3 storm and struck Costa Rica and Nicaragua on 24 November.

The 2018 North Atlantic hurricane season was just as active, with a storm developing before the official start of the season. Hurricane Joyce formed on 12 September making 2018 the first season since 2008 to feature four storms that were active simultaneously (Florence, Helene, Isaac, Joyce).

The first storm of the 2019 season was Andrea, which occurred on 20 May marking the fifth year in a row where a tropical cyclone developed before the official start of the season. In September 2019 Lorenzo became the easternmost Category 5 Atlantic hurricane.

The 2020 Atlantic hurricane season was the most active on record. Of the 30 named storms, 13 developed into hurricanes, and six intensified into super-hurricanes. The season’s first hurricane was Bertha that struck SE USA in late May. In early November, Hurricane Eta made landfall in Central America at category 4 strength and caused enormous damage and loss of life in Honduras and Nicaragua, and also affected Costa Rica and northern Panama. A few days later, the same areas were affected by Hurricane Iota, the latest category 5 hurricane on record in the Atlantic Ocean. The 2021 hurricane season was just as destructive, with category 4 Hurricane Ida in late August striking a vast area from Venezuela to the Canadian Atlantic coast. Ida caused enormous damage in Southern USA and continued its cataclysmic path to New York and beyond.

In recent years hurricanes have occurred in late May, others in November, and some have reached as far east as the Azores, the Cape Verde Islands and even Portugal. All these factors must be taken into account when planning a voyage to or from the Caribbean.

Currents

The currents of the North Atlantic are part of a vast clockwise-moving system that spans the entire ocean south of latitude 40ºN. The NE trade winds generate the North Equatorial Current, which sets westward from the Cape Verde Islands to the Caribbean. Running to the north of it is the weaker North Subtropical Current. Part of the North Equatorial Current sets into the Caribbean Sea, while another branch flows northward along the Lesser Antilles and is known as the Antilles Current. The mainspring of the North Atlantic circulation is the Gulf Stream, which in spite of its name does not originate in the Gulf of Mexico but is a continuation of the North Equatorial Current. The wide band of warm water sweeps along the eastern side of North America until it meets the cold Labrador Current, which forces it to swing in an easterly direction. From about longitude 45ºW the Gulf Stream ceases to be so strong and continues eastwards as the North Atlantic Current.

In the eastern part of the ocean the currents are less well defined, the North Atlantic Current fanning out in different directions to form the south-setting Azores Current and further east the Portugal Current. This latter current sets south along the Iberian Peninsula, one branch being deflected through the Strait of Gibraltar into the Mediterranean, while the other sets SW along the African coast to become the Canary Current. Ultimately this current turns west to join the North Equatorial Current, thus completing the clockwise system of the North Atlantic currents.

South of latitude 10ºN the pattern of the currents is more complex. Between the two west-setting equatorial currents is the Equatorial Countercurrent. In winter this east-setting countercurrent is most noticeable along latitude 6ºN east of about longitude 45ºW, but it diminishes in strength towards the South American continent where it disappears altogether. The South Equatorial Current combines in this region with the North Equatorial Current to form a strong west-flowing current, which is deflected in a northerly direction along the coast of South America towards the Lesser Antilles.

North Atlantic currents

ROUTES IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC

AN10 | • | Routes from North Europe
AN20 | • | Routes from Portugal
AN30 | • | Routes from Gibraltar
AN40 | • | Routes from Madeira
AN50 | • | Routes from the Canary Islands
AN60 | • | Routes from the Cape Verde Islands and West Africa
AN70 | • | Routes from the Lesser Antilles
AN80 | • | Routes from the Virgin Islands
AN90 | • | Caribbean routes from Panama
AN100 | • | Routes in the Caribbean Sea
AN110 | • | Routes from the Bahamas and Florida
AN120 | • | Routes from Bermuda
AN130 | • | Routes from the Azores
AN140 | • | Atlantic routes from North America
AN150 | • | Northern routes from Great Britain and Ireland
AN160 | • | Routes from Scandinavia
AN170 | • | High latitude routes in the NW Atlantic

The North Atlantic is criss-crossed by a larger number of sailing routes than any other ocean, and cruising boats have penetrated its furthest reaches from the steaming jungle of the Orinoco to the icy fjords of Greenland. The greatest concentration of cruising boats is in North America, Northern Europe and the Mediterranean, with most offshore routes originating from those areas. Although a certain proportion of offshore voyages are two-way and fit into a normal summer vacation, an increasing number of people are undertaking longer voyages lasting several months. Many of them complete a North Atlantic circumnavigation by planning a voyage that takes advantage of the most favourable weather conditions along the entire route.

Christopher Columbus was probably the first navigator to realise that there was a certain pattern to North Atlantic weather and in his four transatlantic voyages he used the prevailing conditions to best advantage. Ever since Columbus completed the first Atlantic circle in 1493, his example has been followed by countless sailors. This circular voyage is completed every year by hundreds of European sailors migrating west from the Canaries to the Caribbean islands with the help of the NE trade winds and returning east with the westerlies of higher latitudes, either calling at Bermuda or sailing directly to the Azores. For American sailors who intend to spend a season in the Eastern Caribbean islands the accepted practice is to sail to the Lesser Antilles at the end of the hurricane season, in early November. As passages from the US east coast at that time of year are seldom easy the alternative, albeit longer, route via Europe may be an attractive proposition. Its greatest advantage is that it offers the possibility to cruise in the best seasons throughout the year. By leaving the USA in May, one can cross the Atlantic via Bermuda and the Azores, spend the summer in the Mediterranean or Western Europe, recross the Atlantic in late November, spend the winter in the Caribbean and return home the following May. This schedule is a perfect example of being in the right place at the right time as it avoids the hurricane season in the Western Atlantic, both Atlantic crossings are undertaken at the most favourable times, the Caribbean islands are visited in the optimum season, and the return home is accomplished before the start of the new hurricane season.

The traditional route from America to Europe, which runs along higher latitudes to take advantage of the prevailing westerlies, is used mostly by American or Canadian sailors crossing to Ireland, Britain or other North European destinations. Boats heading for Southern Europe, including the Mediterranean, usually take the warmer route via the Azores.

Anyone heading south from Northern Europe has to pass two major hurdles before reaching the more benign southern part of the North Atlantic. Sailing through the North Sea towards the English Channel one has to put up with one of the highest concentrations of shipping in the world, and if the visibility is poor and the wind unfavourable it is better to go into a port and wait for a change. The next hurdle is the Bay of Biscay where even in a moderate SW gale the seas can become very rough. However, the notorious bay is only about 350 miles across and if one leaves with a favourable forecast from a place like Falmouth, one should be able to make the crossing without being caught out by the weather.

Most southbound passages from the US east coast are faced with a similar challenge as at some point they will need to cross the Gulf Stream, which ideally should only be done in favourable conditions.

In recent years several hurricanes have occurred in late May, others have occurred in November, while a few have reached the Azores and even further east. These three factors must be taken into account when planning a passage to or from the Caribbean or the US mainland.

Windgrams showing a summary of wind conditions along some popular cruising routes

Norfolk, VA to St Martin, November | Gran Canaria to St Lucia, November | Antigua to Bermuda, May | Bermuda to Newport, R.I., June
Antigua to Horta, Azores, May | Falmouth to La Coruña, June | Newport, R.I. to Falmouth, June | Gran Canaria to Gibraltar, March

A10 • Routes from North Europe

• | AN11 | Europe to North America (northern routes) | 29
• | AN12 | Europe to North America (southern routes) | 30
• | AN13 | Southbound from Northern Europe | 31
• | AN14 | Routes across the Bay of Biscay | 33
• | AN15 | Northern Europe to Portugal | 34
• | AN16 | Northern Europe to Mediterranean | 35
• | AN17 | Northern Europe to Madeira | 36
• | AN18 | Northern Europe to Canary Islands | 37
• | AN19 | Northern Europe to Azores | 38

Most offshore passages from Northern Europe are southbound and there is a very good reason for this. Most cold‑water sailors intend to cruise in warmer weather at some point in their lives and so, when the time finally comes for that long-planned voyage, they invariably point their bows southwards, at least as far as the Mediterranean, but more likely the Canaries and Caribbean. Westbound high latitude passages to America are the exception, as most cruising sailors may prefer to reach the other side of the Atlantic by the longer but more comfortable route via the Canaries and Caribbean. For similar reasons, voyages from Northern Europe to the Azores are now less popular than in the past, when a summer cruise to the Azores was not regarded as out of the ordinary. Many European sailors seem to prefer the Azores as just a convenient stopover on the way home from the Caribbean.

In spite of the relatively short sailing season, in recent years the Baltic Sea has become a favourite cruising ground not just with sailors from neighbouring countries but also from further afield. This is also increasingly the case in the Black Sea. More ambitious sailors have even been tempted to visit some of the Russian ports on the White Sea, and the sight of cruising boats sailing beyond the Arctic Circle is no longer a rarity, with cruising boats now sailing regularly along the west coast of Norway, and as far as Spitsbergen, while others strike out west for Iceland, Greenland and even the Northwest Passage.

AN10 Routes from Northern Europe

Because the sailing season in Northern Europe is limited to only a few months, most offshore passages take place between June and August. Earlier, the weather is still cold and unsettled, although for northbound passages the early part of the season has a better chance of favourable, if strong, winds from the SW. With the onset of summer, the likelihood of NE winds is higher. After the end of August the weather becomes more unsettled and in most years a violent storm may be expected in the Bay of Biscay with the arrival of autumn.

Southbound passages can expect reasonable sailing conditions throughout the summer months, with a high percentage of favourable winds south of the Bay of Biscay. Along the Iberian Peninsula the consistent northerly winds, known as the Portuguese trades, provide excellent sailing conditions, with northerly winds continuing to Madeira and the Canaries. By September, weather conditions become less favourable, which is the main reason why anyone intending to cross the Atlantic later in the year would be well advised to plan on arriving sooner in the Canaries. This also applies to boats leaving for the Canaries from the Mediterranean as conditions in the Strait of Gibraltar tend to take a turn for the worse with the approach of autumn.

• AN11 Europe to North America (northern routes)

BEST TIME: | June to August
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November
CHARTS: | BA 4011, US 121
World Voyage Planner: | A15a Voyages from Northern Europe
| A15b Voyages from Western Europe
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Crossing Guide, Cruising Guide to Newfoundland, Cruising Guide to the Nova Scotia Coast, Cruising Guide to Labrador.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN11A |  |  |  |  |
Falmouth | Lizard | Land’s End | Terra | St John’s X | 1973
50°00.0’N, 5°02.0’W | 49°55.0’N, 5°10.0’W | 50°00.0’N, 5°48.0’W | 47°39.0’N, 52°31.0’W | 47°34.0’N, 52°42.0’W |
|  | Sable | Nova | Halifax X | 2467
|  | 43°42.0’N, 60°0.0’W | 44°06.0’N, 63°05.0’W | 44°38.0’N, 63°34.0’W |
Route AN11B |  |  |  |  |
Oban X | Artach |  | Terra | St John’s X | 1905
56°24.5’N, 5°29.5’W | 56°05.0’N, 6°35.0’W |  |  |  |
|  | Sable | Nova | Halifax X | 2395

From the Vikings and the Pilgrim Fathers to participants in transatlantic races, westbound routes across the North Atlantic have been well sailed over the centuries. The great circle route from the English Channel (AN11A) is probably the most difficult as there is usually a battle against headwinds all the way across. The alternatives are either a detour to the north, in the hope of finding more favourable winds, sail a track closer to the great circle route from Scotland (AN11B), or make a detour to the south, in search of warmer weather, as described in AN12. All northern routes can be affected by fog and ice and their timing is therefore crucial. In July, the maximum iceberg limit extends SE from Newfoundland to 39ºN, 50ºW. In August the ice limit recedes to above latitude 41ºN, which limits passages close to those latitudes to a few summer months. As the southern part of the West Atlantic can be affected by tropical storms, this is another hazard that should be borne in mind especially during summer passages.

The prevailing winds on route AN11A are mostly W and SW with the added disadvantage of sailing against the North Atlantic Current. It may be counterproductive to try to avoid the contrary current by moving south, as this brings the risk of straying into the Azores High unless this is done deliberately to make progress by motorsailing in lighter winds. The main objective of the more northerly routes is to stay north of the summer lows that move across the Atlantic from west to east close to the great circle route. Although the chances of finding entirely favourable winds are only marginally better than on the direct route, boats with good windward-going capabilities should be able to made good progress by taking advantage of a higher percentage of SW or NW winds. As these routes pass through an area with a high probability of fog and ice, they ought to be undertaken later in the summer. There is, however, an even more northerly route that can be sailed in mid-summer. This route, pioneered by the Vikings, loops north into an area with a reasonable proportion of NE and N winds in May and June and calls first at Iceland before sailing on to Newfoundland, as described in routes AN155, AN171 and AN175.

One of the shortest routes across the Atlantic is the great circle route from the English Channel to St John’s in Newfoundland but it should only be attempted by boats with good windward-going capabilities. As this route reaches its northernmost latitude at approximately 51°N, the risk of encountering ice in early summer is high and a careful watch shoud be kept at all times. This limit fluctuates from year to year and month to month. The average iceberg limits for July and August are mentioned above, but a more northerly course can be chanced if up-to-date ice reports can be obtained. Early in the season, or in a year with more ice than usual, it may be worth considering route AN12A by staying well to the south of the ice limit.

Passages starting from Falmouth should sail an initial course that clears Land’s End at the SW extremity of the UK. Having passed south of Ireland, a course should be set that avoids the shallows off Sable Island. Passages starting from Scotland should follow a track that stays north of Ireland. Boats starting from Germany or Scandinavia may join this route by using the Caledonian Canal to reach the west coast of Scotland.

Formalities for non-US visiting boats are very strict. All international arrivals (both foreign and US yachts) must file a Notice of Arrival (NOA) with the U.S. Coast Guard National Vessel Movement Center (NVMC), at least 96 hours prior to arrival. Email: sans@nvmc.uscg. gov. Tel.: +1-800-708-9823, + 1-304-264-2502.

• AN12 Europe to North America (southern routes)

BEST TIME: | June
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November
CHARTS: | BA 4011, US 120
World Voyage Planner: | A15b Voyages from Western Europe, AN15c Voyages from the Mediterranean
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Crossing Guide, Atlantic Islands, Cruising Guide to the New England Coast, Chesapeake Bay to Florida.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN12A |  |  |  |  |
Falmouth | Lizard | Bishop | Newport S | Newport X | 2911
50°08.0’N, 5°02.0’W | 49°55.0’N, 5°10.0’W | 49°48.0’N, 6°26.4’W | 41°06.5’N, 71°22.0’W | 41°29.0’N, 71°20.0’W |
|  |  | New York SE | New York X | 3005
|  |  | 40°42.0’N, 74°00.0’W | 40°07.5’N, 73°21.0’W |
|  | Chesapeake | Bay | Norfolk X | 3218
|  | 36°42.0’N, 74°48.0’W | 37°02.5’N, 76°04.0’W | 36°58.0’N, 76°22.0’W |
Route AN12B |  |  |  |  |
Falmouth | Lizard | Graciosa NW |  |  |
|  | 39°06.5’N, 28°06.0’W |  |  |
|  | Faial NE |  |  |
|  | 38°36.0’N, 28°35.0’W |  |  |
|  | [Bermuda E] |  |  |
|  | 32°22.0’N, 64°38.0’W |  |  |
|  | Chesapeake | Bay | Norfolk X | 3521
Route AN12C |  |  |  |  |
Falmouth | Lizard | Biscay SW |  |  |
|  | 43°20.0’N, 10°20.0’W |  |  |
|  | Madeira NW |  |  |
|  | 32°48.0’N, 17°20.0’W |  |  |
|  | Chesapeake | Bay | Norfolk X | 4256

To avoid the headwinds and cold weather on the more direct routes described in AN11, or to reach more southern ports in the USA, there is a choice of southerly routes, which can be either sailed directly, or with possible stops in the Azores, Madeira or Bermuda. As in the case of the northerly routes outlined in AN11, this passage should only be attempted by boats that perform well to windward. According to the latest weather charts, in June and July, just north and west of the Azores High, the percentage of SW winds is higher than that of W and NW winds combined.

Route AN12B is a fair-weather alternative and a continuation of route AN19 via the Azores. Although longer than the other routes, it has the advantage of warmer weather and a mid-Atlantic stop for rest and reprovisioning. Westward from the Azores the course will depend greatly on the location of the Azores High and the winds generated by it as there is a good chance of SW winds along its western limit. This route is likely to be affected by tropical storms after the middle of June, the risk of hurricanes increasing as summer progresses. For the same reason, a stopover in Bermuda is only recommended in an emergency as it may involve a detour and also increases the time spent in the area affected by hurricanes. Route AN137 should be consulted for details if a stop in Bermuda is envisaged. The tactics for the transatlantic section of the passage will depend on the winds encountered west of the Azores, and this will also decide whether to sail east or west of Bermuda, or even stop there. See also route AN37.

Although longer than the previous routes, AN12C has a better chance of favourable winds and should be considered by anyone planning to sail to one of the more southern US ports. The recommended course keeps to the east and south of the Azores High, thus ensuring NE winds in the early part of the passage. The route passes close to the west of Madeira, where a stop may be considered to await a spell of favourable winds.

Formalities for non-US visiting boats are very strict. All international arrivals (both foreign and US yachts) must file a Notice of Arrival (NOA) with the U.S. Coast Guard National Vessel Movement Center (NVMC), at least 96 hours prior to arrival. Email: sans@nvmc.uscg. gov. Tel.: +1-800-708-9823, + 1-304-264-2502.

• AN13 Southbound from Northern Europe

BEST TIME: | June to August
TROPICAL STORMS: | None
CHARTS: | BA 4010, 4011, US 126
World Voyage Planner: | A1a Northern Europe to the Canary Islands, A5a Voyages to Gibraltar, A5b Voyages via the European canal systems
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Almanac, Shell Channel Pilot, North Sea Passage Pilot, Atlantic Spain and Portugal.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN13A |  |  |  |  |
Brunsbüttel | Elbe | Ems |  |  |
53°53.0’N, 9°08.0’E | 54°00.0’N, 8°10.0’E | 53°43.0’N, 6°23.6’E |  |  |
|  | [Terschelling W] |  | Terschelling | 222
|  | 53°26.0’N, 4°54.0’E |  | 53 °20.0’N, 5°06.8’E |
|  | Welland |  |  |
|  | 53°00.0’N, 3°30.0’E |  |  |
|  | [Den Helder W] |  | Den Helder | 339
|  | 52°00.52’N, 4°18.0’E |  | 52 °58.5’N, 4 °44.4’E |
|  | Strait N | Dover NE | Dover | 479
|  | 51°15.0’N, 1°50.0’E | 51°07.8’N, 1°28.0’E | 51°06.6’N, 1°20.0’E |
Route AN13B |  |  |  |  | To Inverness
Gothenburg | Vinga | Skagerrak SE |  |  | 391
57°40.0’N, 11°41.0’E | 57°38.5’N, 11°35.0’E | 57°52.0’N, 10°37.0’E |  |  |
Oslo X | Oslo S |  |  |  | 374
59°23.0’N, 10°35.0’E | 59°00.0’N, 10°32.0’E |  |  |  |
Kristiansand | Kristiansand SW | Skagerrak W |  |  | 275
58°04.8’N, 8°04.2’E | 58°00.0’N, 7°56.0’E | 57°50.0’N, 6°56.0’E |  |  |

Thyborön | Thyborön W |  |  |  |  291
56°42.8’N, 8°13.2’E | 56°43.0’N, 8°01.6’E |  |  |  |
Esbjerg | Esbjerg SW | Moray E | Moray W | Inverness |   336
55°28.8’N, 8°21.5’E | 55°24.0’N, 8°10.2’E | 57°50.0’N, 1°48.0’W | 57°48.0’N, 3°33.0’W | 57°38.5’N, 3°57.0’W |
|  | Caledonian Canal |  |  |
Fort Williams X | Oban X | Ardmore E |  |  |
56°49.0’N, 5°06.3’W | 56°24.5’N, 5°29.5’W | 55°40.0’N, 5°58.5’W |  |  |
|  | Kintyre SW |  |  |
|  | 55°16.0’N, 5°54.0’W |  |  |
|  | Galloway SW |  |  |
|  | 54°34.0’N, 5°07.3’W |  |  |
|  | Man SW |  |  |
|  | 54°04.0’N, 5°08.0’W |  |  |
|  | Smalls |  |  |
|  | 51°40.0’N, 5°50.0’W |  |  | From Ft Williams
|  | Finisterre | Bayona NW | Bayona |   953
|  | 43°10.0’N, 9°30.0’W | 42°10.0’N, 8°57.0’W | 42°8.0’N, 8°53.1’W |
|  |  | Leixões NW | Leixões | 1010
|  |  | 41°12.0’N, 8°45.0’W | 41°10.5’N, 8°42.3’W |
Route AN13C |  |  |  |  |
Crosshaven | Roche | Cork E |  |  |
51 °48.6’N, 8°16.2’W | 51°47.25’S, 8°15.6’W | 51°46.0’N, 8°10.0’W |  |  |
|  | Finisterre | Bayona NW | Bayona |   589
|  |  | Leixões NW | Leixões |  646

Most southbound boats leaving from the Baltic use the Kiel Canal to reach the North Sea. Having transited the canal, from Brunsbüttel, at its North Sea end, a course can be set that will either stay inside the shipping separation zone, or take an offshore route. The inshore route has the advantage of being close to a number of islands where shelter may be sought should the weather deteriorate. Terschelling and Den Helder have been listed as two convenient stops with good facilities. To take the offshore route, one needs to cut across the shipping separation zone. If weather conditions are good, one should resist the temptation to stop in one of the nearer English ports and try to make it at least as far as England’s south coast, where there are several good marinas. Falmouth, close to England’s SW extremity, is a good departure port for a passage across the Bay of Biscay. More southbound routes from Scandinavia are outlined in AN160. Refer also to AN14 and AN15 for routes across the Bay of Biscay.

Sailors setting off from Northern Europe and with more time on their hands may be tempted to sail the longer but more interesting route via the Caledonian Canal and Irish Sea (route AN13B). The eastern start of the canal is at Inverness and several Scandinavian departure points are listed to access that port. The canal ends at Fort Williams from where an intricate route leads to Oban and onto the Ardmore Islands, from where a route is outlined through the North Channel, which separates Scotland from Northern Ireland, to the Irish Sea. The ocean is reached at the Smalls lighthouse from where any route can be sailed to ports in either continental Southern Europe or the offshore islands.

Crosshaven, in Southern Ireland, is probably the best place to depart on a southbound passage (route AN13C) as it has the best facilities in the area. Those who intend to call on the west coast of the Iberian Peninsula should set a course that stays west of the Bay of Biscay to make landfall close to Cape Finisterre. For those who wish to stop in one of the ports in the NW of the Iberian Peninsula, Bayona and Vigo, in the well-protected Vigo Estuary, are the nearest Spanish ports after Cape Finisterre. Further south is the busy Portuguese port of Leixões just north of the Douro River on whose banks lies the attractive city of Porto. As there are only limited docking facilities in Porto itself, before proceeding upstream visiting boats are advised to stop first in Leixões, where there is a better availability of docking spaces. More convenient for visiting Porto is Douro Marina located in Gaia, opposite the old city.

Those who are bound for the Mediterranean and wish to avoid an offshore passage, especially if planning to sail early or late in the season, should consider using the extensive network of rivers and canals in France, Belgium, the Netherlands and Germany. Most of the inland waterways have some draft and width restrictions, and in all cases the mast needs to be lowered.

• AN14 Routes across the Bay of Biscay

BEST TIME: | Late May to mid-August
TROPICAL STORMS: | None
CHARTS: | BA 4103, US 126
World Voyage Planner: | A1a Northern Europe to the Canary Islands
| A5a Voyages to Gibraltar
CRUISING GUIDES: | South Biscay, Atlantic Spain and Portugal.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN14A |  |  |  |  |
Falmouth | Lizard |  | Prior | La Coruña | 429
50°08.0’N, 5°02.0’W | 49°55’N, 5°10’W |  | 43°35.0’N, 8°24.0’W | 43°23.0’N, 8°22.5’W |
Route AN14B |  |  |  |  |
Falmouth | Lizard | Finisterre | Bayona NW | Bayona | 524
|  | 43°10.0’N, 9°30.0’W | 42°10.0’N, 8°57.0’W | 42°08.0’N, 8°53.1’W |
Route AN14C |  |  |  |  |
La Coruña |  | Prior | Lizard | Falmouth | 429
Route AN14D |  |  |  |  |
Bayona | Bayona NW | Finisterre |  |  |
|  | Cork E | Roche | Crosshaven | 589
|  | 51°46.0’N, 8°10.0’W | 51 °47.25’N, 8°15.6’W | 51°48.6’N, 8°16.2’W |

Throughout history mariners have dreaded sailing across the Bay of Biscay where the worst conditions are caused by SW gales. Southbound passages are therefore more difficult and leaving with a good forecast is essential. Strong SW winds are generated by a North Atlantic depression and in summer they normally pass to the north of the area, so whether starting from an English harbour or a port in continental Europe, it is advisable to plan stopping in Falmouth to wait for a good forecast. Usually, a spell of NW winds can be expected after a depression has passed, so there should be sufficient time to complete the crossing before a change in the weather. During summer there is a higher percentage of NE winds than at other times of the year.

From Lizard Point, boats bound for La Coruña should set a course for Cape Prior. Having made landfall there, the course then runs parallel to the coast into the well-protected Bay of La Coruña, with a good selection of marinas in this attractive city. Those who intend to call at one of the ports on the west coast of the Iberian Peninsula should make landfall off Cape Finisterre. The route continues south passing several rias, the deep fjord-like bays that are characteristic of NW Spain. An interesting stop is at the attractive port of Bayona in Ria de Vigo. For the continuation of the southbound routes see routes AN15 and AN16.

While crossing the Bay of Biscay, if the winds are from the SW and you are sailing on the starboard tack, you should avoid being set too much to the SSE or SE, so as not to be embayed by a SW gale. Because of the abrupt change from the deep to the shallow waters of the continental shelf, seas can become extremely rough even in a moderate storm.

The best time to make this passage is in early summer, between late May and July, when the weather is often settled. Towards the end of summer the frequency of gales increases and more attention should be paid to the forecasts from the middle of August to the end of September when some of the most violent storms have been recorded. Although called ‘equinoctial gales’ these violent storms can occur on either side of the autumn equinox and the seas generated by them can be extremely rough.

Similar considerations should be taken into account when planning a northbound passage across the Bay of Biscay (see also AN25). La Coruña is a convenient port to wait for favourable conditions. Those who wish to avoid sailing through the English Channel to reach ports in Northern Europe may find the alternative route via Ireland a more attractive solution. Because of the prevailing westerly winds and the risk of being pushed too far into the Bay of Biscay by a possible SW gale, those sailing this route are advised to set a course that stays west of the rhumb line. One of the best landfalls on the south coast of Ireland is Crosshaven, on the west side of the well-sheltered Cork Estuary. The Royal Cork Yacht Club is based here, and has its own marina where visitors are welcome.

• AN15 Northern Europe to Portugal

BEST TIME: | Late May to mid-August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4103, US 126 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A1a Northern Europe to the Canary Islands A5a Voyages to Gibraltar
CRUISING GUIDES: | South Biscay, Atlantic Spain and Portugal. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Destination | Distance
Falmouth | Lizard | Finisterre | Lima | Viana do Castelo | 552
50°08.0’N, 5°02.0’W | 49°55.0’N, 5°10.0’W | 43°10.0’N, 9°30.0’W | 41°41.5’N, 8°53.0’W | 41°40.5’N, 8°50.5’W |
|  | Berlenga |  |  |
|  | 39°28.0’N, 9°36.0’W |  |  |
|  | Raso |  |  |
|  | 38°43.0’N, 9°33.0’W |  |  |
|  | Azinhaga | Channel N | Lisbon | 738
|  | 38°41.0’N, 9°30.5’W | 38°40.0’N, 9°24.5’W | 38°40.4’N, 9°18.4’W |

Those who do not intend to stop on the NW Spanish coast should skirt the Bay of Biscay by setting a direct course for the Finisterre waypoint set just inside the traffic separation zone NW of Cape Finisterre. The best time to make this passage is in early summer, between late May and July. The percentage of favourable winds during this period is quite reasonable but it still pays to wait in a port like Falmouth for a good forecast. Towards the end of the summer the frequency of gales increases and more attention should be paid to the forecasts in late summer and early autumn when some of the most violent storms have been recorded.

Having weathered Cape Finisterre, landfall can be made at the mouth of Rio Lima, a tidal river on the north shore of which lies Viana do Castelo, an attractive small town with a marina, which is a convenient place to clear into Portugal. Its main drawback is the bar across the river entrance where seas break in onshore winds. In such a case it would be advisable to look for an alternative, such as Leixões.

Those who are short of time can sail nonstop to Lisbon. From Finisterre a course should be set to pass west of the Berlenga Islands. From there the course is altered for Cabo Raso, in the approaches to Lisbon. Canal Norte (North Channel) leads into the Tagus River, the Portuguese capital being situated about 8 miles upstream on the north shore of the river. Docking facilities for visitors have greatly improved with the building of several marinas. The conveniently situated marina at Cascais, immediately to port as one enters the Tagus Estuary, is a good place from which to explore Lisbon and the surrounding area. Boats under 40 ft and drawing less than 6 ft may find a place for a few days at the small marina run by the Associaçao Naval de Lisboa at Belem, right by the Discovery Monument on the north shore of the river. The other alternative is to continue under the large suspension bridge into the Alcantara Basin, which is reached through an opening bridge. Further upriver, the Marina Parque das Nações has a range of facilities and good access to the city.

Summer winds along the Portuguese coast are predominantly northerly and are usually accompanied by a south-setting current. Called nortada in Portuguese, due to their consistency they are referred to as the Portuguese trade winds.

• AN16 Northern Europe to Mediterranean

BEST TIME: | Late May to mid-August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4103, US 126 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A5a Voyages to Gibraltar A5b Voyages via the European canal systems |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Spain and Portugal. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Falmouth | Lizard | Biscay SW |  |  |
50°08.0’N, 5°02.0’W | 49°55.0’N, 5°10.0’W | 43°20.0’N, 10°20.0’W |  |  |
|  | Berlenga |  |  |
|  | 39°28.0’N, 9°36.0’W |  |  |
|  | Vincent SW |  |  |
|  | 37°0.0’N, 9°12.0’W |  |  |
|  | Hoyo |  |  |
|  | 36°04’N, 6°20’ W |  |  |
|  | Tarifa |  |  |
|  | 35°59’N, 5°37’W |  |  |
|  | Acebuche | Gibraltar | Ocean Village | 1028
|  | 36°02.5’N, 5°27.0’W | 36°07.5’N, 5°23.0’W | 36°09’N, 5°21.0’W |
|  |  |  | Queensway Marina | 1027
|  |  |  | 36°08’N, 5°21.0’W |
|  |  | Europa Point 36°05’N, 5°20.5’W |  | 1030

Directions for crossing the Bay of Biscay are similar to those described in AN15. Boats intending to sail nonstop to the Mediterranean should stay well offshore and pass Cape Finisterre at a safe distance outside the busy shipping lanes. During summer the winds along the Portuguese coast are usually northerlies, which will ensure a fast sail all the way to Cape St Vincent. From Biscay, the course runs almost due south to Berlenga, just inshore of the shipping separation zone west of the Berlenga Islands. From there, a new course can be set for Cape St Vincent where the route turns east for the Strait of Gibraltar. The new course passes south of Hoyo Bank, at the SW extremity of the shallows off Cape Trafalgar. The next waypoint to make for is south of Tarifa Island and is set inside the west-going shipping lane. A course parallel to the Spanish coast leads to Punta de Acebuche and the Bay of Gibraltar. Boats proceeding into the Mediterranean without calling at Gibraltar should make for a waypoint that is set 2 miles south of Europa Point. At night, boats transiting the strait without stopping at Gibraltar may find it easier to deal with the traffic by crossing to the African coast earlier and staying in the east-going shipping lane.

Once past Cape St Vincent, the Portuguese trades are normally lost and winds become local in character. On summer days, a SW sea breeze occurs on approaching the Bay of Cadiz. This wind comes up around noon and lasts until midnight. If a strong easterly wind (levanter) is predicted in the Strait of Gibraltar, it is advisable to wait for a change in one of the ports along the Algarve coast such as Lagos or Vilamoura. Another convenient port is Barbate, west of Tarifa and closest to the strait. Alternatively, one can find shelter in the lee of Tarifa Island itself.

The Strait of Gibraltar separates Europe from Africa and at its nearest point the two continents are only 7.5 miles apart. A traffic separation zone operates along the 35 miles of the strait, with westbound traffic using the north lane and eastbound traffic the south lane. Small craft can use the inshore lanes, and boats making for Gibraltar are recommended to keep close to the Spanish shore. However, one should be extremely cautious, particularly at night, as fishing nets are often set without any regard for shipping.

Other hazards to watch out for are tidal races and overfalls, the most violent occurring on the north side extending SW from Cape Trafalgar. Wind against tide can produce rough seas west of Tarifa with an easterly wind, and east of Tarifa with a westerly wind. The main problem is the strength of the currents and the unpredictability of the tidal streams. There is a permanent east-setting current of about 2 knots through the strait, being strongest at the centre and weakest at the edges. The current is weakest over shallow water where the flow can be reversed by a contrary wind.

Negotiating the strait from west to east is usually easier because the prevailing current always sets from the Atlantic into the Mediterranean. By entering the strait at the right time, a boat coming from the Atlantic can count on as much as nine hours of favourable current. However, conditions can become extremely rough if a strong levanter blows against the current. Although tidal data in the strait is not entirely reliable, it has been established that in the middle of the strait the east-setting stream starts approximately at the time of HW Gibraltar and the west-going stream six hours later. It can also be assumed that the tidal flow from high to low water is to the east, while the flow from low to high water is to the west.

• AN17 Northern Europe to Madeira

BEST TIME: | Late May to mid-August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4103, US 120 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A1a Northern Europe to the Canary Islands |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Islands. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN17A |  |  |  |  |
Falmouth | Lizard | Biscay SW |  |  |
50°08.0’N, 5°02.0’W | 49°55.0’N, 5°10.0’W | 43°20.0’N, 10°20.0’W |  |  |
|  | Santo NW |  |  |
|  | 33°10.0’N, 16°28.0’W |  |  |
|  | Fora |  | Quinta do Lorde | 1174
|  | 32°43.0’N, 16°39.0’W |  | 32 °44.2’N, 16 °44.4’W |
|  |  | Madeira SE | Funchal | 1184
|  |  | 32°38.0’N, 16°50.0’W | 32°38.5’N, 16°54.0’W |
Route AN17B |  |  |  |  |
Falmouth | Lizard | Biscay SW |  |  |
|  | Santo NE | Santo SE | Porto Santo | 1146
|  | 33°10.0’N, 16°15.0’W | 33°02.8’N, 16°16.8’W | 33°03.4’N, 16°18.9’W |

As the great circle route from the English Channel to Madeira passes at a safe distance west of Cape Finisterre, similar directions apply for the passage across the Bay of Biscay as for route AN15. If the intention is not to stop in Northern Spain or Portugal, some westing should be made after leaving the English Channel so as to have sufficient sea room should a southwesterly gale blow up while crossing the Bay of Biscay. On leaving the English Channel, a course should be set for the Biscay waypoint, some 40 miles NW of Cape Finisterre. Such a course avoids the shipping lanes that converge on Cape Finisterre. From there, boats bound for the main island of Madeira should set a direct course to NW of Porto Santo Island. The island of Madeira is best approached from the NE by rounding Ilheu de Fora, a small islet on which stands a powerful light. From there, the course can be altered to pass south of Ponta de Garajau and thence to the capital Funchal whose small marina is usually full and there is only an open anchorage close to it. It may therefore be better to stop at the marina Quinta do Lorde near Caniçal,which will be passed on the way to Funchal.

Those who wish to visit Porto Santo first should sail a slightly more easterly course from Biscay so as to approach the main harbour on Porto Santo from the NE and E. There are a number of dangers along Porto Santo’s coasts and these are avoided by keeping well off the coast and making for Ilheu de Cima, a small islet off the SE extremity of the island, which should be left to starboard. A small marina is located in the NW part of Porto Santo’s commercial harbour.

During summer, winds along this route are mostly favourable with the Portuguese trade winds blowing off the Iberian Peninsula. Also favourable is the Portugal Current which sets in a SSW direction. In theory, this passage can be made at any time between May and October but the weather should be watched carefully early and late in the season.

• AN18 Northern Europe to Canary Islands

BEST TIME: | Late May to mid-August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4014, US 14 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A1a Northern Europe to the Canary Islands |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Islands. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Falmouth | Lizard | Biscay SW | Isleta | Las Palmas | 1407
50 °08.0’N, 5°02.0’W | 49°55.0’N, 5°10.0’W | 43°20.0’N, 10°20.0’W | 28°09.0’N, 15°23.0’W | 28°07.3’N, 15°24.0’W |
|  | Lanzarote NE | Lanzarote E | Arrecife | 1342
|  | 29°13.0’N, 13°23.0’W | 28°58.0’N, 13°29.0’W | 28°57.0’N, 13°32.5W’ |
|  | Alegranza NE | Graciosa E | La Sociedad | 1334
|  | 29°26.0’N, 13°26.0’W | 32°20.0’S, 51°16.0’W | 29°13.8’N, 13°30’W |

The direct course from the English Channel follows closely the route to Madeira and the same directions apply as for routes AN15 and AN17 to the Biscay SW waypoint. As such a nonstop passage from Northern Europe to the Canaries is usually attempted late in the season by boats hurrying to join the trade wind route to the Caribbean, the weather can be less favourable and the likelihood of gales is greater than in summer.

South of the Bay of Biscay bad weather is usually associated with depressions moving across the Atlantic to the north of Madeira and generating strong SW winds. If such weather is expected, it is advisable to keep well off the Portuguese coast so as to be able to go on the starboard tack when the SW winds arrive. Once the front has passed, the winds will move rapidly to the NW before settling in N or NE. A course can then be set for La Isleta light in the approaches to Las Palmas. The conspicuous shape of La Isleta makes a perfect landfall. Three miles further south is the entrance into Las Palmas Harbour.

On arrival, boats should make their way into the marina (Muelle Deportivo) located in the SW part of the large commercial harbour. The reception dock is located immediately to port of the marina entrance. The marina is very crowded in November and if no space is available there is an anchorage close to the north of it.

If the passage is undertaken earlier in the season with the intention of spending some time cruising the Canaries, it may be more convenient to stop first at Lanzarote, which lies to windward of all other islands in the archipelago. Marina Lanzarote, a new marina and boatyard complex near the capital Arrecife, offers a good range of facilities and provides an attractive alternative to Las Palmas to prepare the boat for the continuation of the voyage. An interesting first Canarian stop is La Graciosa, a small island north of Lanzarote, which has a well-protected port at La Sociedad. The small settlement is situated on the north shore of the narrows separating La Graciosa from Lanzarote.

Although the Canary Islands are part of the European Union, any boat coming from overseas, whether flying an EU or non-EU flag, must complete certain formalities on arrival. Information on what needs to be done will be given at the port of arrival.

• AN19 Northern Europe to Azores

BEST TIME: | Late May to mid-August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4103, US 126 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A15b Voyages from Western Europe |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Islands. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN19A |  |  |  |  |
Falmouth | Lizard | Graciosa NW |  |  |
50°08.0’N, 5°02.0’W | 49°55.0’N, 5°10.0’W | 39°06.5’N, 28°06.0’W |  |  |
|  | Faial NE | Faial E | Horta | 1230
|  | 38°36.0’N, 28°35.0’W | 38°32.5’N, 28°35.5’W | 38°32.1’N, 28°37.0’W |
Route AN19B |  |  |  |  |
Falmouth | Lizard | Miguel NW |  |  |
|  | 37°55.0’N, 25°51.0’W |  |  |
|  | Miguel W | Miguel SW | Ponta Delgada | 1178
|  | 37°50.0’N, 25°53.0’W | 37°43.5’N, 25°41.0’W | 37°44.2’N, 25°39.0’W |

The best time to make this passage is in June or July when favourable conditions can usually be expected. Although the likelihood of W and SW winds can be quite high at the start of the voyage, the frequency of N winds increases further south as the area of the Portuguese trades is reached. Arriving from Northern Europe, the most convenient port of entry is the capital Ponta Delgada. Landfall will be made at Ponta da Ferraria at the NW extremity of São Miguel Island. From there, the route runs parallel to the coast to Ponta Delgada whose marina has good docking and repair facilities.

Those wishing to sail direct to Horta, on Faial Island, should set a course to make landfall NW of Graciosa, the northernmost island of the archipelago. From there, the course is altered to pass west of São Jorge Island and thence to Horta. In strong SW winds, the channel between the islands of Pico and Faial can be affected by violent gusts. These, and the north-setting current, should be taken into account if attempts are made to enter Horta under such conditions.

A20 • Routes from Portugal

• | AN21 | Portugal to Gibraltar | 40
• | AN22 | Portugal to Canary Islands | 41
• | AN23 | Portugal to Madeira | 41
• | AN24 | Portugal to Azores | 42
• | AN25 | Portugal to Northern Europe | 43
• | AN26 | Portugal to Atlantic Morocco | 44

If westerly winds persist on leaving the English Channel, or strong SW winds are encountered en route, and a direct course to the Azores does not seem practicable, it may be better to change plans and sail there via Spain or Portugal as described in route AN15, although such a detour can add about 300 miles to the total distance. On the subsequent leg from the mainland to the Azores one has the benefit of the Portuguese trades.

In recent years the Azores have experienced hurricanes on several occasions, most occurring between August and October. This possible risk should be taken into account when planning a summer cruise in the Azores.

For a long time most sailors associated Portugal with the Algarve coast and the marinas at Vilamoura and Lagos, where many North European sailors left their boats either before venturing east into the Mediterranean or setting off across the Atlantic. In recent years, the ports on the west coast of Portugal have become increasingly popular as more North European sailors have discovered the many and varied attractions of this small country. Portugal’s history has always been associated with the sea and the capital Lisbon is a delightful city to explore, especially as docking facilities for visiting yachts are now of a high standard.

The most significant feature of this area is the Portuguese trade winds, which blow steadily down the coast during the summer months. These consistent northerly summer winds, called nortada in Portuguese, are such a seasonal feature that they are also referred to as winds of joy, of well-being, of renewal. They are common from April to September and in June and July can reach as far as Madeira.

The prevailing winds make it essential to start a summer cruise as far north as possible as sailing against them, as well as the south-setting current, can be a difficult undertaking. Similarly, during the summer months it is normally easier to sail from mainland Portugal to its outlying islands than vice versa. In fine summer weather there are land and sea breezes along the coast, although the northerly trades do modify the sea breezes to some extent. Occasionally in summer there can be sea mist near the coast associated with calm or light winds.

There is often a remarkable change in weather after Cape St Vincent has been passed. Tactics for boats bound for Gibraltar or the Mediterranean are outlined in route AN16. Sailing from the mainland to Madeira is rarely difficult with the Portuguese trades ensuring fast passages. Occasionally, however, with the passage of a depression, the winds can come from the southwest, when it is better to wait for a change. The same applies to passages to the Canaries, which also benefit from fair winds most of the time. Passages to the Azores are usually a mixture of good winds for the first half and variable conditions as one approaches the archipelago.

Because mainland Portugal is often the starting point for a cruise in the Azores, a few useful tips are given in route AN24. A cruise in the Azores does not lend itself to a logical sequence and therefore its starting point should be dictated by the subsequent destination. For those planning to sail west across the Atlantic and who have the time to spend at least two weeks in the Azores, the logical landfall, and start of an Azorean cruise, should be the capital Ponta Delgada, on São Miguel Island. Boats planning to return to Portugal or the Mediterranean, as well as those intending to sail later to the Canaries, should consider making their first landfall as far north as Graciosa and start their cruise there by calling at São Jorge, Faial, Pico and Terceira on their way to São Miguel and Santa Maria. Boats bound for Northern Europe may find better conditions for their voyage to the English Channel by sailing the obverse route to the one described and take their leave from the Azores at Graciosa.

AN20 Routes from Portugal

• AN21 Portugal to Gibraltar

BEST TIME: | May to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4011, US 12 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A5a Voyages to Gibraltar |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Spain and Portugal, Straits Sailing Handbook. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Lisbon | Channel S | Vincent SW |  |  |
38°40.4’N, 9°18.4’ | 38°36.0’N, 9°24.0’W | 37°00.0’N, 9°12.0’W |  |  |
|  | Hoyo |  |  |
|  | 36°04’N, 6°20.0’ W |  |  |
|  | Tarifa |  |  |
|  | 35°59.5’N, 5°36.5’W |  |  |
|  | Acebuche | Gibraltar | Ocean Village | 295
|  | 36°02.5’N, 5°27.0’W | 36°07.5’N, 5°23.0’W | 36°09.0’N, 5°21.0’W |
|  |  |  | Queensway Marina | 294
|  |  |  | 36°08.0’N, 5°21.0’W |

The prevailing summer winds along the entire western coast of Portugal are northerlies. Boats setting off from ports north of Lisbon should refer to AN16. Those leaving from Lisbon should take their departure at the end of the South Channel and, having cleared Cape Espichel, should set a course for Cape St Vincent. The course is then altered to clear Hoyo Bank at the SW extremity of the shallows off Cape Trafalgar. The next waypoint to make for is south of Tarifa Island and inshore of the west-going shipping lane. A course parallel to the Spanish coast leads into the Bay of Gibraltar and the choice of docking at either Ocean Village or Queensway Marina.

After Cape St Vincent has been passed, the winds become variable and the northerlies are usually lost. Closer to the Strait of Gibraltar, the winds change again and usually blow either in or out of the strait. The current is favourable on this route as there is a constant flow of water from the Atlantic into the Mediterranean. The easterly levanter wind produces a steep sea when blowing against the contrary current, which can make conditions difficult for a small boat when the wind is strong. Additional directions for transiting the strait are given in route AN16.

• AN22 Portugal to Canary Islands

BEST TIME: | May to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4011, US 12 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A1a Northern Europe to the Canary Islands |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Islands. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN22A |  |  |  |  |
Lisbon | Channel S |  | Isleta | Las Palmas | 703
38°40.4’N, 9°18.4’W | 38°36.0’N, 9°24.0’W |  | 28°09.0’N, 15°23.0’W | 28°07.3’N, 15°24.0’W |
Route AN22B |  |  |  |  |
Vilamoura | Moura SW |  | Isleta | Las Palmas | 652
37°04.2’N, 8°07.5’W | 37°04.0’N, 8°09.0’W |  |  |  |

For boats leaving from one of the ports on the west coast of Portugal, this is usually a pleasant passage, especially in summer when the Portuguese trades blow consistently and the southbound passage is also aided by the favourable current. Boats leaving from Lisbon can set a course for Gran Canaria as soon as they are safely out of the Tagus Estuary. From there, a direct course can be set for La Isleta lighthouse in the approaches to Las Palmas.

Boats leaving from Vilamoura should sail a course that stays well off the African coast as steadier winds will be encountered further offshore. Landfall is made off La Isleta lighthouse, the route continuing south to the entrance into the busy Las Palmas Harbour. Yachts should make their way into the marina (Muelle Deportivo) located in the SW part of the large commercial harbour. Arriving boats should go to the marina reception dock located immediately to port of the marina entrance. See AN18 for further details.

From June to September the Portuguese trades usually provide excellent sailing conditions along this route. In May and October the winds are less constant, although their direction continues to be predominantly northerly. November has a higher incidence of winds from other directions, but winds from the northern quarter are still in the majority. The subsequent passage to the Canaries should not be left for too late in the season, as strong winds with a pronounced northerly swell are a constant feature of the winter months.

• AN23 Portugal to Madeira

BEST TIME: | May to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4104, US 12 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Islands. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN23A |  |  |  |  |
Lisbon | Channel S | Santo NW | Fora | Quinta do Lorde | 513
38°40.4’N, 9°18.4’W | 38°36.0’N, 9°24.0’W | 33°10.0’N, 16°28.0’W | 32°43.0’N, 16°39.0’W | 32°44.2’N, 16°44.4’W |
|  |  | Madeira SE | Funchal | 521
|  |  | 32°48.0’N, 17°20.0’W | 32°38.5’N, 16°54.0’W |
Route AN23B |  |  |  |  |
Lisbon | Channel S |  | Santo SE | Porto Santo | 480
|  |  | 33°02.8’N, 16°16.8’W | 33°03.4’N, 16°18.9’W |

Throughout the year the predominant winds on this route are from the northerly quarter, but best sailing conditions are usually experienced between June and August when northerly winds prevail. Although these Portuguese trades normally reach as far as Madeira, the likelihood of contrary winds increases with the approach of winter. Also favourable is the Portugal Current which sets in a SSW direction. The weather in the vicinity of Madeira is influenced by the location of the Azores High, light winds and calms occurring when this high moves south of its normal position.

Boats bound for the main island of Madeira from either Lisbon or Vilamoura should set a direct course to pass NW of Porto Santo Island. The island of Madeira is best approached from the NE by rounding Ilheu de Fora, a small islet on which stands a powerful light. From there the course can be altered to pass south of Ponta de Garajau and thence to the capital Funchal. As Funchal’s marina is usually full and there is only an open anchorage close to it, it is advisable to go straight from Ilheu de Fora to the nearer Marina Quinta do Lorde near Caniçal.

As Porto Santo is on the direct route to Madeira, a stop in this tranquil island is highly recommended. The direct route to Porto Santo makes landfall south of Ilheu de Cima, a small islet off the SE extremity of the island. From there, the course can be altered for Porto Santo’s commercial harbour and the small marina located in its NW part.

• AN24 Portugal to Azores

BEST TIME: | June to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4103, US 12 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Islands. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN24A |  |  |  |  |
Lisbon | Channel N | Terceira S |  |  |
38°40.4’N, 9°18.4’W | 38°40.0’N, 9°24.5’W | 38°34.0’N, 27°04.0’W |  |  |
|  | Topo | Faial E | Horta | 904
|  | 38°30.0’N, 27°46.0’W | 38°32.5’N, 28°35.5’W | 38°32.1’N, 28°37.0’W |
Route AN24B |  |  |  |  |
Vilamoura | Moura SW | Sagres | Faial E | Horta | 976
37°04.2’N, 8°07.5’W | 37°04.0’N, 8°09.0’W | 36°58.5’N, 8°57.0’W |  |  |
Route AN24C |  |  |  |  |
Lisbon | Channel N | Miguel SE | Miguel S | Ponta Delgada | 772
|  | 37°43.0’N, 25°08.0’W | 37°41.0’N, 30°50.0’W | 37°44.2’N, 25°39.0’W |
Route AN24D |  |  |  |  |
Vilamoura | Moura SW | Sagres |  |  |
|  | Miguel SE | Miguel S | Ponta Delgada | 837
|  | Maria SE | Maria S | Vila do Porto | 816
|  | 36°55.0’N, 25°0.0’W | 36°55.0’N, 25°08.0’W | 36°56.3’N, 25°08.9’W |

These routes between continental Portugal and its offlying archipelago have the benefit of the Portuguese trades during summer months when northerly winds predominate. In early summer there is normally a high percentage of northerly winds for the first part of the passage, but as the ridge of high pressure extending from the Azores High is reached, SW winds become increasingly predominant.

Having left Lisbon through the North Channel, boats on route AN24A should set a course to pass south of Ponta do Topo, the eastern extremity of São Jorge Island. Depending on weather conditions, from that point Horta can be reached by sailing either north or south of the island of Pico. In strong SW winds it is better to stay north of Pico and, if the weather deteriorates, one can seek shelter at Velas, the main port on São Jorge. In strong SW winds, the channel between the islands of Pico and Faial, in the approaches to Horta, can be affected by violent gusts. These, and the north-setting current, should be taken into account if attempting to enter Horta under such conditions. Terceira itself has a marina at Angra do Heroismo and makes a good port of call if the voyage needs to be interrupted.

The direct route to Ponta Delgada leads to Ponta de Galera, on the south coast of the island of São Miguel. Nearby there is a good marina at Ponta Delgada, the capital of the Azores, which has the best facilities in the archipelago. Another good starting point for a cruise among the islands is the island of Santa Maria, at the southeastern extremity of the archipelago, from where the other islands can be reached in logical succession. The alternative, especially for boats arriving from the north, is to start cruising the Azores from one of the northern islands, such as Graciosa, and, after visiting islands in the central group, take one’s leave from the Azores at Santa Maria. The two westernmost islands of Flores and Corvo are usually visited by boats arriving from the west and their inclusion in a cruise starting from the east may be more difficult and less practical.

For boats sailing to the Azores from the Algarve coast a convenient landfall, and a good starting point for an Azorean cruise, is Santa Maria Island. From Vilamoura, a course should be set to pass south of Cape Sagres. From there, a direct course can be sailed to Punta do Castelo, the SE extremity of Santa Maria Island. From there the route follows the contour of the island to Vila do Porto and its small marina. Although the Azores are part of the European Union, any boat coming from overseas, including Portugal and whether flying an EU or non-EU flag, must complete certain formalities on arrival. Information on what needs to be done will be given at the port of arrival.

• AN25 Portugal to Northern Europe

BEST TIME: | May to June |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4103, US 126 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Almanac, Shell Channel Pilot.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Lisbon | Channel N |  |  |  |
38°40.4’N, 9°18.4’W | 38°40.0’N, 9°24.5’W | Azinhaga |  |  |
|  | 38°41.0’N, 9°30.5’W |  |  |
|  | Raso |  |  |
|  | 38°43.0’N, 9°33.0’W |  |  |
|  | Berlenga |  |  |
|  | 39°28.0’N, 9°36.0’W |  |  |
|  | Finisterre | Lizard | Falmouth | 738
|  | 43°10.0’N, 9°30.0’W | 49°55.0’N, 5°10.0’W | 50°08.0’N, 5°02.0’W |
|  |  | Brest SW | Brest | 648
|  |  | 48°03.0’N, 4°59.7’W | 48°21.0’N, 4°29.0’W |

The prevailing northerly winds of summer, which ensure excellent sailing conditions for southbound passages, make the task of reaching northern destinations on the Iberian Peninsula very difficult throughout the summer months. Passages in late spring therefore have a better chance of favourable winds. During summer, the easiest solution is to sail up the Portuguese coast in easy stages by taking advantage of the land and sea breezes which blow close inshore. Having reached Northern Portugal or NW Spain one can wait for favourable conditions to cross the Bay of Biscay.

The other alternative is to take an offshore tack and try to make as much northing as possible until more favourable winds are met. North of the latitude of Cape Finisterre, W and SW winds become increasingly predominant, but towards the end of summer the frequency of SW gales also increases, so it is better to plan such an offshore passage for earlier in the summer.

Boats leaving from Lisbon should take the North Channel and reach the open sea off Cabo Raso. The course then leads west of the Berlenga Islands to pass west of Cape Finisterre. From that point a direct course can be set for Lizard Point in the approaches to Falmouth, a convenient port of entry into the United Kingdom. Those who prefer to make landfall in Western France, should set a course from Finisterre to Brest SW in the approaches to that attractive Brittany port. Marina du Chateau is the most conveniently located to complete entry formalities.

• AN26 Portugal to Atlantic Morocco

BEST TIME: | May to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4104, US 12 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | North Africa. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Lisbon | Channel S | Vincent SW | Rabat N | Bouregreg Marina | 316
38°40.4’N, 9°18.4’W | 38°36.0’N, 9°24.0’W | 37°00.0’N, 9°12.0’W | 34°3.0’N, 6°51.0’W | 34°01.6’N, 6°49.3’ W |
|  |  | Fedala | Mohammedia Marina | 319
|  |  | 33°47.0’N, 7°22.0’W | 33°43.5’ N, 7°23’ W |
|  |  | Mesa | Casablanca Marina | 320
|  |  | 33°40.0’N, 7°35.0’W | 33 °37’N, 7°35’ W |
|  |  | Ghir | Marina Agadir | 507
|  |  | 30°38.0’N, 9°57.0’W | 30°25.1’ N, 8°36.6’ W |

The greatly improved docking facilities in the major ports along Morocco’s Atlantic coast have opened up an interesting alternative to southbound boats. Taking its leave from Lisbon at the mouth of the River Tagus, the route passes west of Cape St Vincent. Boats bound for the capital Rabat can set a course for a point north of the entrance into the Bouregreg River. The marina is located on the northern bank of the river, across from the city. It is reported that the approach through the two large breakwaters at the river mouth can be dangerous in a moderate swell and the port will be closed if the swell exceeds 2 metres.

Further south along the coast, the town of Mohammedia has a marina located next to the commercial harbour. Landfall is made off Cape Fedala. Landfall for Casablanca is north of Mesa d’Oukacha light in the approaches to the port of Casablanca. The southernmost marina along the Moroccan coast is at Agadir. A parallel course to the coast should be sailed that stays at least 10 miles offshore to keep out of the breaking swell nearer the shore. Landfall is made NE of Cape Arhesdis in the approaches to the port of Agadir, with its marina located south of the large commercial harbour.

A30 • Routes from Gibraltar

• | AN31 | Gibraltar to Madeira | 46
• | AN32 | Gibraltar to Canary Islands | 47
• | AN33 | Gibraltar to Lesser Antilles | 48
• | AN34 | Gibraltar to Northern Europe | 49
• | AN35 | Gibraltar to Portugal | 50
• | AN36 | Gibraltar to Azores | 51
• | AN37 | Gibraltar to Bermuda | 52
• | AN38 | Gibraltar to North America | 53
• | AN39 | Gibraltar to Atlantic Morocco | 55

Gibraltar is described as the gateway to the Mediterranean, although the opposite is equally true as, for westbound boats, the Strait of Gibraltar is the gateway to the Atlantic. Gibraltar is particularly busy in spring, when boats make their way into the Mediterranean, and autumn, when the end of the sailing season produces a similar movement in the opposite direction. Gibraltar is also a convenient place from which to visit neighbouring ports in North Africa, whether the colourful Tangiers in Morocco or the two Spanish possessions of Melilla and Ceuta.

As Gibraltar lies at the eastern end of the strait that bears its name, eastbound boats are less dependent on weather conditions than those intending to sail through the strait into the Atlantic. For westbound boats, a favourable forecast is essential as the strait can turn into a serious obstacle if weather conditions are not right. Ideally, westbound boats should wait for an easterly wind, or at least calm or light westerly winds, before leaving Gibraltar. Almost as important as the direction of the wind is the state of the tide, and this should be played to one’s advantage. If one leaves about three hours after HW Gibraltar, the tide will be contrary for only the first hour. After the tide slackens, by keeping to the Spanish side of the strait, when the tide turns one should have a fair current at least as far as Tarifa. Because of the strong tidal sets, one should avoid sailing too close to the Spanish shore. In strong westerly winds, if it is impossible to make headway against them, it is best to anchor in the lee of Tarifa to wait for a break in the weather and a favourable tide. In daylight and good visibility it may help to tack across to the African shore, where the current is weaker. One must be aware of the large amount of shipping when crossing the traffic lanes and also the fast-moving ferry from Algeciras to Tangiers.

The situation usually improves significantly once the strait has been left behind and a course is set for either Madeira or the Canaries. Having passed Cape St Vincent, boats bound for Northern Europe will find that sailing a direct course is rarely possible since both winds and current along the Portuguese coast are normally contrary. If the Portuguese trades are still blowing, it may be better to head offshore and favour the tack that makes most northing.

Going east from Gibraltar is usually easier, although it pays to wait for a favourable westerly wind. Timing one’s departure to take advantage of the tide is less important because the inshore west-setting current along Europa Point is never strong enough to pose a serious problem. If not bound for one of the ports along the Spanish Costa del Sol, it is better to sail offshore where the winds are usually steadier. Mediterranean routes from Gibraltar are described here.

Weather conditions in the immediate vicinity of Gibraltar can be very different to those over the general area. In the southern part of the Iberian Peninsula, from Cape St Vincent to Cape Trafalgar, NW and N winds are more common throughout the year, reaching their peak in July and August when about 75 per cent of the winds blow from that direction. Closer to the Strait of Gibraltar, weather conditions are significantly affected by the geography of the strait, with the wind usually either blowing in or out of the strait, and being quite strong at times. When a strong levanter blows hard against the prevailing east-setting current flowing through the strait into the Mediterranean, it creates a short, sharp sea, which can make it very difficult to reach Gibraltar from the Atlantic. The opposing poniente, which is a strong W or SW wind, can make it even more difficult to sail in the opposite direction, out of Gibraltar into the Atlantic. The levanter occurs most frequently from July to October and is associated with rain and reduced visibility. If a strong levanter is blowing in the Strait of Gibraltar, easterly winds will continue into the Bay of Cadiz, although at diminished strength. Otherwise, on summer days, there will be an alternation of breezes, a sea breeze from the SW starting around noon to be followed by a lighter land breeze from the NW.

AN30 Routes from Gibraltar

• AN31 Gibraltar to Madeira

BEST TIME: | May to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4104, US 12 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Islands, Atlantic Crossing Guide.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN31A |  |  |  |  |
Gibraltar | Acebuche | Tarifa |  |  |
36°07.5’N, 5°23.0’W | 36°02.5’N, 5°27.0’W | 35°59.5’N, 5°36.5’W |  |  |
|  | Paloma |  |  |
|  | 36°00.0’N, 5°42.5’W |  |  |
|  | Santo NW | Fora | Quinta do Lorde | 599
|  | 33°10.0’N, 16°28.0’W | 32°43.0’N, 16°39.0’W | 32°44.2’N, 16°44.4’W |
|  |  | Madeira SE | Funchal | 608
|  |  | 32°38.5’N, 16°54.0’W | 32°38.0’N, 16°50.0’W |
Route AN31B |  |  |  |  |
Gibraltar | Acebuche | Tarifa |  |  |
|  | Paloma | Santo SE | Porto Santo | 572
|  |  | 33°02.8’N, 16°16.8’W | 33°03.4’N, 16°18.9’W |

In favourable wind and tide conditions, the course runs parallel to the Spanish coast to Punta Acebuche from where the course alters to pass south of Tarifa light. The route continues on this course to keep out of the west-going shipping lane. A course of 270º will lead to the next waypoint to clear the shallows off Punta Paloma. From there, a direct course can be set for Madeira. As the shipping lanes converging on the Strait of Gibraltar have to be crossed at some point, tacking across should only be done when Cape Espartel can be cleared on that tack. The headland, at the NW point of Africa, should not be approached too closely because of the overfalls in its vicinity. A direct course can be sailed to the island of Porto Santo. Once there, boats bound for Madeira should set a course for Ilheu de Fora, a rocky islet with a powerful light off the eastern extremity of Madeira. As the marina in Funchal is always full, it is advisable to sail from Fora to the marina Quinta do Lorde near Caniçal. As the direct route to Madeira passes closely to the less developed island of Porto Santo, an attractive alternative is to call there first by setting a course for Santo SE, south of the small island of Ilheu de Cima. Porto Santo should be approached with care, especially at night, as there are a number of dangers off its eastern coast.

During the summer months the steady Portuguese trades usually ensure favourable sailing conditions all the way to Madeira. At the beginning and end of summer, sailing conditions can be less favourable and both calms and SW winds may be encountered en route. Passages in May and November are particularly vulnerable to this kind of weather, but between June and early October the prevailing northerly winds should provide a fast sail for most of the way. In strong SW winds, one may be forced to abandon one’s intention to call at Madeira and continue to the Canaries without stopping. This course of action is often taken by boats that have left Northern Europe or the Mediterranean late in the season.

Although Madeira belongs to the European Union, all boats coming from overseas, whether flying an EU or non-EU flag, must complete certain formalities on arrival. Information on what needs to be done will be given at the port of arrival.

• AN32 Gibraltar to Canary Islands

BEST TIME: | May to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4104, US 12 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A1b Gibraltar to the Eastern Caribbean |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Crossing Guide, Atlantic Islands. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Gibraltar | Acebuche | Tarifa |  |  |
36°07.5’N, 5°23.0’W | 36°02.5’N, 27°00.0’W | 35°59.5’N, 5°36.5’W |  |  |
|  | Paloma |  |  |
|  | 36°0.0’N, 5°42.5’W |  |  |
|  | Espartel |  |  |
|  | 35°48.0’N, 5°58.0’W |  |  |
|  | Beddouza |  |  |
|  | 32°40.0’N, 10°10.0’W |  |  |
|  | Lanzarote NE | Lanzarote E | Arrecife | 597
|  | 29°13.0’N, 13°23.0’W | 28°58.0’N, 13°29.0’W | 28°58.5’N, 13°30.0’W |
|  | Alegranza NE | Graciosa E | La Sociedad | 583
|  | 29°26.0’N, 13°26.0’W | 29°16.0’N, 13°27.5’W | 29°13.8’N, 13°30.0’W |
|  |  | Isleta | Las Palmas |
|  |  | 28°09.0’N, 15°23.0’W | 28°07.3’N, 15°24.0’W | 701

There are two options on leaving Gibraltar: to follow the contour of the Spanish coast until it is safe to set a direct course for the Canaries, or to cross immediately to the African side and continue past Cape Espartel before setting a course for the Canaries. If the first option is preferred, setting a course to pass south of Punta Acebuche avoids any dangers. As far as Tarifa it is better to stay inshore and steer south of Tarifa light so as to keep out of the west-going shipping lane. From there, a course of 270º clears the shallows off Punta Paloma. From that point a new course can be set to cross the shipping lanes to Espartel, the waypoint being set outside the area of confused seas off Cape Espartel that is affected by tidal races and overfalls. Those who prefer to set a direct course from the Bay of Gibraltar for Espartel must be alert when crossing the shipping lanes and be aware of fast ferries operating in this area.

Better sailing conditions are usually found further off the African coast. This can be done by setting a course that passes through the intermediate waypoint off Cape Beddouza. If the need arises to stop in a Moroccan port in an emergency, there are conveniently located marinas at the capital Rabat (Bouregreg Marina), Mohammedia, Casablanca and Agadir, all of which are also official ports of entry. See also AN26.

For boats intending to make their first Canarian landfall at Lanzarote, a course should be set for the island’s NE extremity. The capital and main port on Lanzarote is Arrecife, where a new marina and boatyard complex provide a good range of facilities. If time permits, one should consider stopping first at Graciosa, a small island north of Lanzarote, which has a small but well-protected port at La Sociedad, on the north shore of the narrows separating Graciosa from Lanzarote.

For boats bound directly for Las Palmas and thus approaching Gran Canaria from the north, the conspicuous hump of La Isleta makes a perfect landfall. Three miles further south is the entrance into busy Las Palmas Harbour. Arriving boats should make their way into the marina (Muelle Deportivo) located in the SW part of the large commercial harbour. Arriving boats should go to the marina reception dock located immediately to port of the marina entrance. The marina is very crowded in November and if no space is available there is an anchorage close to the north of it.

From June to September the prevailing northerlies and a favourable current usually provide excellent sailing conditions along this route. In May and October the winds are less constant, although their direction continues to be predominantly northerly. November has a higher incidence of winds from other directions, but winds from the northern quarter are still predominant. The passage to the Canaries should not be left too late in the season both because of the difficulty of getting out of the Strait of Gibraltar and the strong winds with a pronounced northerly swell, which are a constant feature of the winter months. Anyone intending to see more of the Canaries should plan on stopping first in Lanzarote, which is the best island from which to start visiting the Canaries as it lies to windward of all other islands.

Although the Canary Islands are part of the European Union, any boat coming from overseas, whether flying an EU or non-EU flag, must complete certain formalities on arrival. Information on what needs to be done will be given at the port of arrival.

• AN33 Gibraltar to Lesser Antilles

BEST TIME: | November |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, US 12 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A1b Gibraltar to the Eastern Caribbean |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Crossing Guide, Sailors Guide to the Windward Islands, Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Gibraltar | Acebuche | Tarifa |  |  |
36°07.5’N, 5°23.0’W | 36°02.5’N, 5°27.0’W | 35°59.5’N, 5°36.5’W |  |  |
|  | Paloma |  |  |
|  | 36°00.0’N, 5°42.5’W |  |  |
|  | Espartel | Barbados SE | Bridgetown | 3248
|  | 35°48.0’N, 5°58.0’W | 13°02.0’N, 59°31.0’W | 13°05.5’N, 59°37.2’W |
|  | Lucia NE | Rodney NW | Rodney Bay | 3279
|  | 14°07.0’N, 60°53.0’W | 14°05.6’N, 60°58.7’W | 14°05.7’N, 60°57.9’W |
|  |  | Martinique SE | Le Marin | 3266
|  |  | 14°22.0’N, 60°51.0’W | 14°25.3’N, 60°54.5’W |
|  | Antigua SE | Antigua S | English Harbour | 3230
|  | 16°59.0’N, 61°44.0’W | 16°59.7’N, 61°46.0’W | 17°02.0’N, 61°45.8’W |

This long passage is only sailed without calling at either Madeira or one of the Canary Islands by those in a hurry, as both of these island groups lie close enough to the recommended route to warrant at least a short stop. Directions as far as Cape Espartel are given in route AN31.

The best sailing conditions for this passage are in the summer, but an Atlantic crossing during this time, which is the hurricane season, cannot be recommended. Good conditions for a nonstop passage may also be encountered at the end of spring (April–May), when the chances of encountering a tropical storm en route are low. The route at such a time will be close to the great circle course with a good chance of having the prevailing NE winds for most of the way across. This would be the case also during summer when, however, a crossing carries too many risks, especially at the end of the summer. Between May and July the frequency of hurricanes is quite low, but it increases after August, reaching a peak in September. Summer passages are therefore far too hazardous to be even considered. The safer time to make a direct passage to the Lesser Antilles is in November by which time the threat of hurricanes has diminished. However, such a late departure from the Mediterranean has a high risk of encountering unfavourable conditions at the start.

During the winter months, steady NE winds will be found only in lower latitudes, usually south of latitude 25ºN. The route at such a time will pass between the Canaries and Madeira and, depending on weather conditions, the strategy to be employed will be similar to the suggestions given for route AN51.

• AN34 Gibraltar to Northern Europe

BEST TIME: | May to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4103, US 126 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A12 Voyages from the Mediterranean to Northern Europe |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Almanac, Shell Channel Pilot. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Gibraltar | Acebuche | Tarifa |  |  |
36°07.5’N, 5°23.0’W | 36°02.5’N, 5°27.0’W | 35°59.5’N, 5°36.5’W |  |  |
|  | Paloma |  |  |
|  | 36°00.0’N, 5°42.5’W |  |  |
|  | Hoyo |  |  |
|  | 36°04.0’N, 6°20.0’W |  |  |
|  | Vincent SW |  |  |
|  | 37°00.0’N, 9°12.0’W |  |  |
|  | Raso |  |  |
|  | 38°43.0’N, 9°33.0’W |  |  |
|  | Berlenga |  |  |
|  | 39°28.0’N, 9°36.0’W |  |  |
|  | Finisterre | Lizard | Falmouth | 1025
|  | 43°10.0’N, 9°30.0’W | 49°55.0’N, 5°10.0’W | 50°08.0’N, 5°02.0’W |
|  |  | Brest SW | Brest |  648
|  |  | 48°03.0’N, 4°59.7’W | 48°21.0’N, 4°29.0’W |

Directions to sail through the Strait of Gibraltar are given in routes AN31 and AN32. If strong westerly winds are encountered after the strait has been negotiated, it is better to stay on the port tack and, if conditions deteriorate, seek shelter in one of the ports or marinas along the northern shore. The nearest is Barbate, while further along are the marinas at Vilamoura and Lagos, on the Algarve coast. Any of these would be convenient places in which to wait for a change of weather. See also route AN35.

After the strait and the shallows off Cape Trafalgar have been cleared, a course should be set to pass SW of Cape St Vincent. From there, the course runs north roughly parallel to the Portuguese coast. During summer the prevailing winds along the western shores of the Iberian Peninsula are the Portuguese trades, which make the task of reaching any northern destination extremely difficult. For those who are in a hurry it is better to head immediately offshore by sailing on the tack that makes most northing. The other alternative is to sail in short legs along the coast by taking advantage of the land and sea breezes that blow close inshore. North of the latitude of Cape Finisterre, W and SW winds become increasingly predominant, but towards the end of summer the frequency of SW gales also increases, so it is better to plan such an offshore passage for earlier in the summer.

Falmouth, at the SW extremity of England, is a convenient port of arrival for boats bound for the English Channel as it can be entered under virtually any weather conditions. Boats bound for the French port of Brest should set a course for Brest SW in the approaches to that attractive Brittany port. Marina du Chateau is the most conveniently located to complete entry formalities. This coast of Brittany is particularly dangerous and should not be approached in a W or SW gale.

A more radical solution is to reach Northern Europe by way of the canals and rivers that link the Mediterranean with the Bay of Biscay, English Channel and North Sea. The southernmost among them is known in French as the Canal Entre Deux Mers and is made up of the Canal de Midi, Canal de Garonne and the two rivers Garonne and Gironde. This 600 km long inland route runs from Sète on the Mediterranean coast to Royan in the Bay of Biscay. Those who prefer to reach more northerly destinations may find other waterway systems that cross France to be more attractive. All northbound routes start by going upstream on the River Rhône and then have the option of various canals and river systems to reach ports on the English Channel, the North Sea and even the Baltic.

• AN35 Gibraltar to Portugal

BEST TIME: | May to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4103, US 12 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Spain and Portugal. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Gibraltar | Acebuche | Tarifa |  |  |
36°07.5’N, 5°23.0’W | 36°02.5’N, 5°27.0’W | 35°59.5’N, 5°37.0’W |  |  |
|  | Paloma |  |  |
|  | 36°00.0’N, 5°42.5’W |  |  |
|  | Hoyo |  |  |
|  | 36°04.0’N, 6°09.0’W |  |  |
|  | Faro | Moura SW | Vilamoura | 152
|  | 36°54.0’N, 7°53.0’W | 37°04.0’N, 8°09.0’W | 37°04.2’N, 8°07.5’W |
|  | Vincent SW | Channel S | Lisbon | 301
|  | 37°00.0’N, 9°12.0’W | 38°36.0’N, 9°24.0’W | 38°40.4’N, 9°18.4’W |

Directions for negotiating the Strait of Gibraltar are given in routes AN31 and AN32. Having cleared the shallows off Punta Paloma, a course can be set for Hoyo so as to stay outside the shallows off Cape Trafalgar. A hazard to watch out for along this coast is the large fishing nets, which are buoyed and usually marked by a fishing boat but are difficult to avoid. For this reason it is not prudent to sail too close inshore, especially at night.

If a strong levanter is blowing in the Strait of Gibraltar, easterly winds will continue into the Bay of Cadiz, although at diminished strength. Otherwise, on summer days, there will be an alternation of breezes, a sea breeze from the SW starting around noon to be followed by a lighter land breeze from the NW.

From Paloma, the course becomes NW and runs across the Bay of Cadiz to the waypoint Faro off Cape Santa Maria to make landfall off Vilamoura. Boats bound for the west coast of Portugal should set a course for Cape St Vincent. From that point strong northerly winds can be expected during summer, but as there is an abundance of good ports along the entire Portuguese coast this section can be easily covered in short daily stages.

• AN36 Gibraltar to Azores

BEST TIME: | May to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, US 12 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A15c Voyages from the Mediterranean |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Islands. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN36A |  |  |  |  |
Gibraltar | Acebuche | Tarifa |  |  |
36°07.5’N, 5°23.0’W | 36°02.5’N, 5°27.0’W | 35°59.5’N, 5°37.0’W |  |  |
|  | Paloma |  |  |
|  | 36°00.0’N, 5°42.5’W |  |  |
|  | Terceira S |  |  |
|  | 38°34.0’N, 27°04.0’W |  |  |
|  | Topo | Faial E | Horta | 1120
|  | 38°30.0’N, 27°46.0’W | 38°32.5’N, 28°35.5’W | 38°32.1’N, 28°37.0’W |
Route AN36B |  |  |  |  |
Gibraltar | Acebuche | Tarifa | Miguel S | Ponta Delgada |   979
|  | Paloma | 37°41.0’N, 30°50.0’W | 37°44.2’N, 25°39.0’W |
Route AN36C |  |  |  |  |
Gibraltar | Acebuche | Tarifa | Maria SE | Vila do Porto |   957
|  | Paloma | 36°55.0’N, 25°00.0’W | 36°56.3’N, 25°08.9’W |

This passage benefits from favourable winds for at least the first half as the prevailing northerly winds of summer are felt as far as 300 miles off continental Europe, and often further than that. At some point an area of light winds or calms will be encountered, after which the winds will probably come from either W or SW. This will depend entirely on the location of the Azores High. The further NW this is situated from its normal location, the higher the likelihood of having favourable NE winds for most, or all, of the passage to the Azores.

Directions for negotiating the Strait of Gibraltar are given in routes AN31 and AN32. If strong SW winds are encountered west of the strait it is better to put into a port, such as nearby Barbate, or Vilamoura and Lagos, on the Algarve coast, and wait for a change. Directions will be similar as for route AN35. If strong winds are encountered after passing Cape St Vincent, the area of the Gettysburg and Gorringe Banks (36º30’N, 12º00’W and 36º45’N, 11º10’W) should be avoided as breaking or confused seas have been experienced in that area.

Boats intending to sail nonstop to Horta, on the island of Faial, should set a course to pass south of both Terceira Island and Ponta do Topo, the eastern extremity of São Jorge Island. Depending on weather conditions, from that point Horta can be reached by continuing on a westerly course that stays north of Pico Island. In strong SW winds it is indeed better to stay north of Pico and, if the weather deteriorates, one can seek shelter in a port on the north coast of Pico, such as São Roque, or at Velas, the main port on São Jorge. In strong SW winds, the channel between the islands of Pico and Faial, in the approaches to Horta, can be affected by violent gusts. These, and the north-setting current, should be taken into account if attempting to enter Horta under such conditions.

The direct route to Ponta Delgada leads to Ponta de Galera, on the south coast of the island of São Miguel. There is a marina at Ponta Delgada, the capital of the Azores, which has the best facilities in the archipelago.

For those who plan to continue their voyage either west or north, the logical starting point for a cruise in the Azores is the island of Santa Maria, at the southeastern extremity of the archipelago. Landfall is made at Punta do Castelo, SE of Santa Maria. From there, the route follows the contour of the island to Vila do Porto and its small marina.

Although the Azores are part of the European Union, any boat coming from overseas, whether flying an EU or non-EU flag, must complete certain formalities on arrival. Information on what needs to be done will be given at the port of arrival.

• AN37 Gibraltar to Bermuda

BEST TIME: | April to May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4011, US 12 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A15c Voyages from the Mediterranean |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Crossing Guide, Atlantic Islands. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN37A |  |  |  |  |
Gibraltar | Acebuche | Tarifa |  |  |
36°07.5’N, 5°23.0’W | 36°02.5’N, 5°27.0’W | 35°59.5’N, 5°37.0’W |  |  |
|  | Paloma | Bermuda E | St George’s | 2908
|  | 36°00.0’N, 5°42.5’W | 32°22.0’N, 64°38.0’W | 32°22.0’N, 64°40.0’W |
Route AN37B |  |  |  |  |
Gibraltar | Acebuche | Tarifa |  |  |
|  | Paloma |  |  |
|  | Terceira S |  |  |
|  | 38°34.0’N, 27°04.0’W |  |  |
|  | Topo | Faial E | Horta | 1122
|  | 38°30.0’N, 27°46.0’W | 38°32.5’N, 28°35.5’W | 38°32.1’N, 28°37.0’W |
|  | Faial NE |  |  |
|  | 38°32.5’N, 28°35.5’W |  |  |
|  | Faial N | Bermuda E | St George’s | 2920
|  | 38°40.0’N, 28°42.0’W |  |  |
Route AN37C |  |  |  |  |
Gibraltar | Acebuche | Tarifa |  |  |
|  | Paloma |  |  |
|  | Santo NW | Fora | Quinta do Lorde |   609
|  | 33°10.0’N, 16°28.0’W | 32°43.0’N, 16°39.0’W | 32°44.2’N, 16°44.4’W |
|  |  | Madeira SE | Funchal |  618
|  |  | 32°37.5’N, 16°51.0’W | 32°38.5’N, 16°54.0’W |
|  | Madeira W | Bermuda E | St George’s | 2996
|  | 32°48.0’N, 17°20.0’W |  |  |

A direct passage from the Mediterranean to Bermuda can be interrupted in the Azores, although the decision to do so should be taken nearer the time as the possible detour may not be justified if weather conditions are favourable for a nonstop passage. The same principle also applies to a possible stop in Madeira, so the wise navigator should leave Gibraltar prepared to sail the entire passage without stopping. Route AN37A lists waypoints for a direct passage, whereas suggested stops in either the Azores or Madeira are included in AN37B and AN37C. Those who may consider such an intermediate stop should also refer to AN36 and AN31.

The advantage of a direct voyage from the Mediterranean to Bermuda is that it can be undertaken earlier in the season, in April or early May, when weather conditions may be favourable and there is no risk of hurricanes. Later passages coincide with the hurricane season, an important factor that must be taken into account when planning this voyage.

Access to reliable forecasts is essential on this passage so as to know if the Azores High is in a favourable location to ensure NE winds at least for the initial part of the passage. A difficult decision that needs to be taken in the early stages of the passage is whether to wait for the opportune moment to start the transatlantic passage in Madeira or one of the islands of the Azores. The former has the advantage that NE winds are a more frequent feature in those latitudes, whereas starting from the latter may ensure a shorter passage. While NE winds would be preferable, a spell of NW winds may entail sailing for a while in a SW direction until the course can be gradually adjusted to approach Bermuda from SE. A ridge of high pressure, which often extends from the Azores High westwards towards Bermuda and the American mainland, helps keep any storm systems or strong westerly winds well to the north.

Landfall is made at the entrance into St George’s Harbour, Bermuda’s only official port of entry.

• AN38 Gibraltar to North America

BEST TIME: | April to May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4011, US 120 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A15 Voyages from the Mediterranean
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Crossing Guide, Cruising Guide to the New England Coast, Cruising Guide to Newfoundland, Cruising Guide to the Nova Scotia Coast, Cruising Guide to Labrador.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Destination | Distance
Route AN38A |  |  |  |  |
Gibraltar | Acebuche | Tarifa |  |  |
36°07.5’N, 5°23.0’W | 36°02.5’N, 5°27.0’W | 35°59.5’N, 5°37.0’W |  |  |
|  | Paloma |  |  |
|  | 36°00.0’N, 5°42.5’W |  |  |
|  | Hoyo |  |  |
|  | 36°04.0’N, 6°09.0’W |  |  |
|  | Vincent SW |  |  |
|  | 37°00.0’N, 9°12.0’W |  |  |
|  | Santo NW |  |  |
|  | 33°10.0’N, 16°28.0’W |  |  |
|  | Sable | Nova | Halifax X | 2690
|  | 43°42.0’N, 60°00.0’W | 44°06.0’N, 63°05.0’W | 44 °38’N, 63°34.0’W |
|  |  | Terra | St John’s X | 2241
|  |  | 47°39.0’N, 52°31.0’W | 47°34’N, 52 °42.0’W |
|  |  | Newport S | Newport X | 3065
|  |  | 41°06.5’N, 71°22.0’W | 41°29.0’N, 71°20.0’W |
|  |  | New York SE | New York X | 3191
|  |  | 40°42.0’N, 74°00.0’W | 40°07.5’N, 73°21.0’W |
|  | Chesapeake | Bay | Norfolk X | 3557
|  | 36°42.0’N, 74°48.0’W | 37°02.5’N, 76°04.0’W | 36°58.0’N, 76°22.0’W |
Route AN38B |  |  |  |  |
Gibraltar | Acebuche | Tarifa |  |  |
|  | Paloma |  |  |
|  | Terceira S |  |  |
|  | 38°34.0’N, 27°04.0’W |  |  |
|  | Topo | Faial E | Horta | 1122
|  | 38°30.0’N, 27°46.0’W | 38°32.5’N, 28°35.5’W | 38°32.1’N, 28°37.0’W |
|  | Faial NE |  |  |
|  | 38°32.5’N, 28°35.5’W |  |  |
|  | Faial N |  |  |
|  | 38°40.0’N, 28°42.0’W |  |  |
|  | [Bermuda E] |  |  |
|  | 32°22.0’N, 64°38.0’W |  |  |
|  | Chesapeake | Bay | Norfolk X | 3405
|  |  | New York SE | New York X | 3252
Route AN38C |  |  |  |  |
Gibraltar | Acebuche | Tarifa |  |  |
|  | Paloma |  |  |
|  | Santo NW |  |  |
|  | 33°10.0’N, 16°28.0’W |  |  |
|  | Chesapeake | Bay | Norfolk X | 3483

The majority of boats bound for North America from the Mediterranean usually sail the classic route via the Canaries, which, although considerably longer, benefits from a much higher proportion of favourable winds. For those who need to cross the Atlantic in the shortest time possible, a more direct route has two major attractions: the passages can be sailed in late spring and will be much speedier. The best time for such a passage is in late spring, but if it is undertaken after May, attention must be paid to the risk of an early hurricane. This applies particularly to those sailing to areas of the USA affected by tropical storms. On the other hand, boats bound for Canadian ports, such as St John’s in Newfoundland, should avoid making the passage too early in the season because of the danger of ice. See also route AN12.

Direct passages across the Atlantic along one of these routes are regularly accomplished mainly thanks to much better access to weather forecasts than in the past. This fact makes it possible to wait for the Azores High to be well established, and in a favourable location, as this ensures a spell of NE winds at least for the initial part of the passage. The fact that the North Atlantic Anticyclone is often referred to as the Azores High is explained by its location close to the Azores. Normally this is the case in early summer, when the high may be located west of the archipelago, while later in summer it drifts closer to the European landmass. There are different opinions as to whether it is better to wait for the opportune moment to start the passage in Madeira, or at one of the Azores. The former has the advantage that NE winds are a more frequent feature in those latitudes, whereas the latter may ensure a shorter passage. Whichever point of departure is chosen, it is important to wait until northerly winds are well established. While NE winds would be preferable, a spell of NW winds may entail sailing for a while in a SW direction until the course can be gradually readjusted. A ridge of high pressure, which often extends from the Azores High westwards towards Bermuda and the American mainland, will keep any storm systems or strong westerly winds well to the north. It is at that stage that the risk of an early hurricane must be kept in mind, especially if the passage is undertaken after the end of May.

Directions and waypoints as far as the western end of the Strait of Gibraltar are the same as for route AN36. Having reached the open sea, the route across the Atlantic will depend both on the final destination and on existing weather conditions, which will dictate whether the Azores are left to port, starboard, or possibly stop there.

Passages to ports south of Cape Hatteras, an area where early hurricanes pose a real threat, can be sailed in late April or early May along a southerly route that runs along the southern edge of the Azores High where the percentage of NE winds is quite high at that time of year. As route AN38A passes close to Madeira, an intermediate waypoint has been set at Santo NW in case a stop in either Porto Santo or Madeira may be considered to await a spell of favourable winds (see also route AN31). The tactics for the transatlantic section of the passage will depend on the winds encountered west of the Azores High and this will also decide whether to sail south of Bermuda, or even stop there. Passages to ports in the Chesapeake area, which can also be sailed on a route that stays south of the Azores, will benefit from a better sailing angle once the area of prevailing S or SW winds is reached close to Bermuda.

As the routes for more northern ports pass close to the Azores, it may be tempting to make at least a brief stop there after the first 1000 miles at sea (route AN38B). Whether a stop in the Azores is intended or not, directions for the route between Gibraltar and the Azores are outlined in AN24 and AN36. If a stop in the Azores is indeed considered, from the Strait of Gibraltar, the direct route to Ponta Delgada leads to Ponta de Galera, on the south coast of the island of São Miguel. Although Ponta Delgada is closer to this route, and there is a good marina there, the traditional port of call for transatlantic passages remains Horta, on the island of Faial.

Those intending to sail nonstop to Horta should set a course that passes south of both Terceira Island and Ponta do Topo, the eastern extremity of São Jorge Island. From that point Horta can be reached by continuing on a westerly course that stays north of Pico Island. An alternative point of departure is the westernmost port in the Azores, Lajes on Flores Island, which has a small marina and is a good place to seek shelter or wait for favourable sailing conditions.

Those who have stopped in the Azores should be prepared to wait there until a good long-term forecast assures favourable conditions for the continuation of their voyage. However, after June and the start of the hurricane season, a prompt departure becomes essential. As early-summer passages to ports north of New York will skirt the western fringe of the Azores High, SW winds are likely to be predominant. Therefore, a stop in Bermuda might not be advisable and a better sailing angle might be achieved by sailing a direct course for your final destination. Directions for passages from the Azores to the USA and Canada are given in AN138 and AN139.

Those planning to stop in Bermuda may be able to sail a direct course from the Azores and should consult route AN137. The most likely winds to be encountered west of the Azores High are from the SW, and if favourable conditions persist it is best to bypass Bermuda altogether and sail nonstop to your final destination.

• AN39 Gibraltar to Atlantic Morocco

BEST TIME: | May to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4104, US 12 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | North Africa. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Gibraltar | Acebuche |  | Malabata | Tangiers |   55
36°07.5’N, 5°23.0’W | 36°02.5’N, 5°27.0’W |  | 35°50.5’N, 5°46.0’W | 35°47.0’N, 5°48.0’W |
|  | Tarifa |  |  |
|  | 35°59.5’N, 5°37’W |  |  |
|  | Espartel | Rabat N | Bouregreg Marina | 150
|  | 35°48.0’N, 5°58.0’E | 34°03.0’N, 6°51.0’W | 34°01.6’N, 6°49.3’ W |
|  |  | Fedala | Mohammedia Marina | 177
|  |  | 33°47.0’N, 7°22.0’W | 33°43.5’ N, 7°23.0’ W |
|  |  | Mesa | Casablanca Marina | 188
|  |  | 33°40.0’N, 7°35.0’W | 33°37’N, 7°35.0’ W |
|  | Mogador | Ghir | Marina Agadir | 458
|  | 31°32.0’N, 10°05.0’W | 30°38.0’N, 9°57.0’W | 30°25.1’ N, 8°36.6’ W |

With the exception of Tangiers, which is conveniently located on the south side of the Strait of Gibraltar, for many years most cruising boats avoided Moroccan ports, partly because of the lengthy formalities but mainly the absence of adequate facilities. All this has now changed as the Moroccan authorities have embarked on a programme of developing yachting facilities in all major ports. There are now marinas south of Cape Espartel at the capital Rabat, Mohammedia, Casablanca and Agadir, all of which are also official ports of entry. The increase in the number of visiting yachts has also led to an easing of entry formalities.

Taking leave from the Bay of Gibraltar off Punta Carnero the route continues west for a while staying just north of the west-going shipping lane. The route then turns due south across the shipping lanes to make landfall off Cape Malabata in the approaches to the port of Tangiers. The route continues south from Cape Espartel parallel to the coast to the capital Rabat. The recommended waypoint is just north of the entrance into the port and the Bouregreg River. Bouregreg Marina is located on its northern bank across from the city. It is reported that the approach through the two large breakwaters at the river mouth can be dangerous in a moderate swell and the port will be closed if the swell exceeds 2 metres.

Further along the coast, the town of Mohammedia has its own marina located next to the commercial harbour. The landfall is made NE of Cape Fedala. The landfall for Casablanca is north of Mesa d’Oukacha light in the approaches to the port of Casablanca. The southernmost marina along Morocco’s Atlantic coast is at Agadir. To reach this port, the route runs parallel to the coast and stays at least 10 miles offshore to keep out of the breaking swell nearer the shore. From Cape Mogador the route continues south to Cape Ghir in the approaches to the busy port of Agadir. The marina is located south of the large commercial harbour.

A40 • Routes from Madeira

• | AN41 | Madeira to Canary Islands | 57
• | AN42 | Madeira to Lesser Antilles | 58
• | AN43 | Madeira to Azores | 59
• | AN44 | Madeira to Northern Europe | 59
• | AN45 | Madeira to Portugal | 60
• | AN46 | Madeira to Gibraltar | 61

Until not so long ago the majority of the yachts that visited Madeira were cruising boats on their way to the Canaries or Caribbean and occasionally a few racing boats from mainland Portugal. The situation has changed as more boats either spend the winter in Madeira or use it as a convenient stopover on their return voyage to the Mediterranean after having spent the winter in the Canaries. The most frequented route, however, remains that to the Canaries, which is at its busiest in October when hundreds of boats make their way south as part of the annual migration to the Caribbean. At this time Madeira is crowded with boats and the marina at Funchal can barely cope with the amount of visitors. Funchal is best avoided at such times and a stop at the marina at Quinta do Lorde, east of Funchal, or in neighbouring Porto Santo should be considered.

The prevailing summer winds are NE, but because of the height of Madeira, the wind funnels around and can blow from the SW on the southern coast when it is blowing NE offshore. The smaller and lower island of Porto Santo does not block the NE winds, which accelerate and blow in gusts in its lee. In winter the winds are more variable and come from all directions. North Atlantic depressions that move across the ocean from west to east occasionally take a more southerly track and affect the island, but their effect is less strong than in the Azores. Dust haze, which reduces visibility, can occur when easterly winds blow from the African continent.

AN40 Routes from Madeira

A small number of boats choose to start their Atlantic crossing in Madeira rather than take the traditional route via the Canaries. Such a decision makes sense in late winter or spring when the NE trade winds reach further north and the route from Madeira to the Caribbean can bypass the Canaries altogether. Madeira is also a good starting point if your Caribbean destination is one of the more northern islands, such as St Martin or the Virgins. Tactics for the transatlantic passage depend very much on access to weather information to be able to know how long to continue to sail on a SW course before turning west.

Northbound passages from Madeira are seldom easy on account of the prevailing northerly winds. Most boats bound for a port in Northern Europe may prefer to make a detour to the Azores, which are not affected by the prevailing northerly winds. The easternmost islands, such as Santa Maria or São Miguel, are good places to stop before resuming the voyage, which should benefit from mostly westerly winds. If bound for mainland Portugal one has little choice, and if the winds are from the NE, as is most likely in summer, you should be prepared to beat all the way. The same applies to boats heading for Gibraltar and the Mediterranean. If time permits, you should wait in Madeira for a spell of SW winds, which normally occur when a depression passes to the north of the island. Such conditions will ensure a fast passage all the way to the Mediterranean or Northern Europe.

• AN41 Madeira to Canary Islands

BEST TIME: | May to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4104, US 12 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Islands. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN41A |  |  |  |  |
Funchal | Madeira S | Selvagem W | Isleta | Las Palmas | 283
32°38.5’N, 16°54.0’W | 32°35.0’N, 16°54.0’W | 30°05.0’N, 16°12.0’W | 28°09.0’N, 15°23.0’W | 28°07.3’N, 15°24.0’W |
|  | Tenerife NE | Tenerife E | Tenerife | 260
|  | 28°35.0’N, 16°03.5’W | 28°29.2’N, 16°12.4’W | 28°27.3’N, 16°14.9’W |
Route AN41B |  |  |  |  |
Funchal | Madeira S | Alegranza NE |  |  |
|  | 29°26.0’N, 13°26.0’W |  |  |
|  | Lanzarote NE | Lanzarote E | Arrecife | 282
|  | 29°13.0’N, 13°23.0’W | 28°58.0’N, 13°29.0’W | 28°58.5’N, 13°30.0’W |
Route AN41C |  |  |  |  |
Funchal | Madeira S | Graciosa SW | Graciosa S | La Sociedad | 272
|  | 29°13.0’N, 13°33.0’W | 29°13.7’N, 13°30.1’W | 29°13.8’N, 13°30’W |
Route AN41D |  |  |  |  |
Funchal | Madeira S | Palma NE | Palma E | La Palma | 244
|  | 28°53.0’N, 17°35.0’W | 28°40.0’N, 17°45.0’W | 28°40.2’N, 17°46.0’W |

This is normally a fast downwind run, in the prevailing NE winds, which can be quite strong especially in winter and produce rough seas on this passage.

The direct route passes very close to the Selvagem Islands, a group of uninhabited islands lying halfway to the Canaries and straddling the 30th parallel. The course for Gran Canaria (AN41A) passes west of the two main islands from where it continues to Las Palmas. The direct course for Tenerife also passes west of the islands. Landfall is made off Punta de Anaga, the NE point of Tenerife. From there, the course runs parallel to the coast, with the option of stopping at Marina Tenerife, inside the fishing harbour some 3 miles north of the capital Santa Cruz, or continuing to Marina Santa Cruz located in the centre of this attractive city.

The course for Lanzarote (AN41B) passes at a safe distance to the east of the Selvagem Islands and makes landfall NE of the small island of Alegranza. Marina Lanzarote near the capital Arrecife is a convenient first port of arrival in the Canaries as it has good docking and repair facilities. The alternative is to stop first at La Graciosa and reach the main settlement of La Sociedad through Estrecho del Rio, the channel separating Graciosa from Lanzarote (route AN41C).

Route AN41D, bound for the island of La Palma, passes well to the west of the Selvagem Islands. The suggested arrival port is Marina La Palma, near the capital Santa Cruz de la Palma.

Those intending to stop at one of the Selvagem Islands must obtain a special permit, which is issued in Funchal. In bad weather, yachts are allowed to anchor in Enseada das Cagarras (30º08.3’N, 15º52.2’W) on the SW side of Selvagem Grande, but access ashore is only allowed to those in possession of a landing permit. There are wardens stationed on both islands and they can be contacted on channel 16.

• AN42 Madeira to Lesser Antilles

BEST TIME: | Late November to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, US 12 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A1c Madeira to the Eastern Caribbean
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Crossing Guide, Sailors Guide to the Windward Islands, Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands, Cruising Guide to Trinidad & Tobago, Barbados and Guyana.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Funchal | Madeira S | Barbados SE | Barbados SW | Bridgetown | 2627
32 °38.5’N, 16°54.0’W | 32°35.0’N, 16°54.0’W | 13°02.0’N, 59°31.0’W | 13°04.5’N, 59°37.0’W | 13°05.5’N, 59°37.2’W |
|  | Lucia NE |  |  |
|  | 14°07.0’N, 60°53.0’W |  |  |
|  | Lucia NW | Rodney NW | Rodney Bay | 2662
|  | 14°07.5’N, 60°57.5’W | 14°05.6’N, 60°58.7’W | 14°05.7’N, 60°57.9’W |
|  |  | Martinique SE | Le Marin | 2647
|  |  | 14°22.0’N, 60°51.0’W | 14°25.3’N, 60°54.5’W |
|  | Antigua SE | Antigua | English Harbour | 2611
|  | 16°59.5’N, 61°44.0’W | 16°59.7’N, 61°46.0’W | 17°00.2’N, 61°45.8’W |

Because of the strategic location of the Canaries on the route to the Eastern Caribbean, only a small number of boats choose to sail there directly from Madeira. Nevertheless, Madeira can make a good starting point for such a transatlantic passage provided one has access to a good weather picture of the North Atlantic that shows the northern limits of the NE trade winds. If these extend as far as 25ºN it is possible to set a course from Madeira to pass to the west of the Canary Islands. The initial course leads west of the island of La Palma and continues in a SW direction. At the beginning of winter however, steady trade winds rarely extend beyond latitude 20ºN, and if this is the case one might as well stop in the Canaries as the route passes very close to the archipelago. If only a short stop in the Canaries is envisaged, one should choose one of the more westerly ports, such as Santa Cruz de la Palma or El Hierro, which would make a better starting point for the subsequent transatlantic leg. Both islands have marinas in their main ports. More detailed information for the transatlantic passage is given in route AN51.

• AN43 Madeira to Azores

BEST TIME: | May to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, US 12 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Islands. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Funchal | Madeira SW | Madeira W | Maria S | Vila do Porto | 482
32°38.5’N, 16°54.0’W | 32°37.0’N, 16°56.5’W | 32°48.0’N, 17°20.0’W | 36°55.0’N, 25°08.0’W | 36°56.3’N, 25°08.9’W |

During summer, when the Portuguese trade winds reach as far south as Madeira, they will ensure good sailing conditions between these two Portuguese archipelagos, even if occasionally this may turn into a close-hauled passage. If leaving from Funchal, the high island of Madeira normally blocks northerly winds so that a light westerly breeze will be felt until one reaches the end of the island. From Funchal, the course runs parallel to the coast as far as Ponta do Pargo, the western extremity of the island. From there, a direct course leads to Ponta do Marvao, in the approaches to Vila do Porto. This is the main harbour of Santa Maria and has a small marina on its SW side.

• AN44 Madeira to Northern Europe

BEST TIME: | June |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4011,US 120 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Almanac, Shell Channel Pilot.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN44A |  |  |  |  |
Funchal | Madeira SE |  |  |  |
32°38.5’N, 16°54.0’W | 32°38.0’N, 16°50.0’W |  |  |  |
| Fora |  |  |  |
| 32°43.0’N, 16°39.0’W |  |  |  |
| Santo NW | Biscay SW | Lizard | Falmouth | 1175
| 33°10.0’N, 16°28.0’W | 43°20.0’N, 10°20.0’W | 49°55.0’N, 5°10.0’W | 50°08.0’N, 5°02.0’W |
|  |  | Brest SW | Brest |
|  |  | 48°03.0’N, 4°59.7’W | 48°21.0’N, 4°29.0’W |
Route AN44B |  |  |  |  |
Funchal | Madeira SE | Fora |  |  |
|  | Santo NW |  |  |
|  | Cork SW | Roche | Crosshaven | 1232
|  | 51°43.0’N, 8°16.0’W | 51°47.25’S, 8°15.6’W | 51°48.6’N, 8°16.2’W |
Route AN44C |  |  |  |  |
Funchal | Madeira SE | Fora |  |  |
|  | Santo NW |  |  |
|  | Smalls SW |  |  |
|  | 51°40.0’N, 5°50.0’W |  |  |
|  | Man SW |  |  |
|  | 54°04.0’N, 5°08.0’W |  |  |
|  | Galloway SW |  |  |
|  | 54°34.0’N, 5°07.3’W |  |  |
|  | Kintyre SW | Ardmore E | Oban X | 1589
|  | 55°16.0’N, 5°54.0’W | 55°40.0’N, 5°58.5’W | 56 °24.5’N, 5°29.5’W |

Boats leaving from Funchal will fare better by sailing westabout the island of Madeira as this will allow them to set a better course once the open sea is reached. During the summer months, when the Portuguese trades are in full force, a direct passage to the English Channel is often difficult to accomplish. Being forced to take a long starboard tack will put the boat almost on a heading for the Azores. For this reason, it may be advisable to stay on that tack until an area is reached where the prevalence of northerly winds is less pronounced. The onward tactics will be greatly influenced by the location of the Azores High. If a stopover in the Azores is considered, the same directions apply as for routes AN43 and AN132.

During spring, and occasionally also in summer, a spell of SW winds, caused by a passing depression, may allow a direct course to be sailed, at least in the initial stages. In such an eventuality, it would be better to sail around the eastern extremity of Madeira. A similar route is sailed by boats bound for one of the ports on the Atlantic coast of France, such as Brest. Landfall is made at Brest SW in the approaches to that attractive Brittany port. Marina du Chateau is the most conveniently located to complete entry formalities.

A more western route is sailed by boats bound for Southern Ireland, which can be continued north through the Irish Sea and Caledonian Canal by those who prefer this more scenic route to reach destinations in Northern Europe.

• AN45 Madeira to Portugal

BEST TIME: | May to June |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4104, US 12 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Spain and Portugal. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN45A |  |  |  |  |
Porto Santo | Santo SE |  | Channel S | Lisbon | 480
33°03.4’N, 16°18.9’W | 33°2.8’N, 16°16.8’W |  | 38°36.0’N, 9°24.0’W | 38°40.4’N, 9°18.4’W |
Route AN45B |  |  |  |  |
Porto Santo | Santo SE |  | Moura SW | Vilamoura | 469
|  |  | 37°04.0’N, 8°09.0’W | 37°04.2’N, 8°07.5’W |

Mainland Portugal lies to windward of its offshore dependency for most of the year and therefore this passage is best undertaken before the onset of the strong NE winds of summer. At the beginning of summer, before they become fully established, these winds blow in spells of a few days at a time, so it is worth waiting for a lull before leaving. A spate of strong NE winds is sometimes followed by one or two days of calms, when it may be possible to gain some useful mileage by motoring. The occasional front, which may generate SW winds, can also be used to one’s advantage.

Whether bound for Lisbon or Vilamoura, on the Algarve coast, Porto Santo makes a better starting point than Funchal. The direct route from Porto Santo to Lisbon crosses an area of shallows in the vicinity of the Gettysburg Seamount, which should be avoided in strong winds because of breaking seas. Boats bound for Lisbon make landfall at the start of the South Channel, which leads through an area of shallows at the mouth of the Tagus River. The Portuguese capital lies approximately 8 miles upstream on the north shore of the river.

• AN46 Madeira to Gibraltar

BEST TIME: | May to June |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4104, US 12 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Straits Sailing Handbook. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN46A |  |  |  |  |
Funchal | Madeira SE |  |  |  |
32°38.5’N, 16°54.0’W | 32°38.0’N, 16°50.0’W |  |  |  |
| Fora |  |  |  |
| 32°43.0’N, 16°39.0’W |  |  |  |
| Santo SE | Espartel | Ahmiar | Gibraltar | 610
| 33°02.8’N, 16°16.8’W | 35°48.0’N, 5°58.0’E | 35°56.0’N, 5°29.0’W | 36°07.5’N, 5°23.0’W |
Route AN46B |  |  |  |  |
Porto Santo | Santo SE | Espartel | Ahmiar | Gibraltar | 572
33°03.4’N, 16°18.9’W |  |  |  |  |

Directions for this route are similar to those for AN45 with the added complication that any NE winds that have been experienced offshore may become easterlies on approaching the Strait of Gibraltar. Ideally, this passage should be undertaken in spring when the chances of SW winds are greater than during summer. Occasionally, in summer, when strong NE winds blow offshore, once the longitude of Cape St Vincent has been passed, local weather conditions take over. A SW day breeze can then be expected, which usually springs up around noon and lasts as far as the Strait of Gibraltar.

From Porto Santo, a direct course can be sailed to Cape Espartel, in the approaches to the Strait of Gibraltar. From there, the route stays on the African side of the strait inshore of the east-going shipping lanes. Having reached Cape Ahmiar, the route turns north, crosses the two shipping lanes and makes landfall west of Gibraltar’s main breakwater. From there, the two marinas, Queensway and Ocean Village, are within easy reach.

A50 • Routes from the Canary Islands

• | AN51 | Canary Islands to Lesser Antilles | 63
• | AN52 | Canary Islands to Cape Verde Islands | 66
• | AN53 | Canary Islands to West Africa | 67
• | AN54 | Canary Islands to Bahamas | 68
• | AN55 | Canary Islands to Bermuda | 68
• | AN56 | Canary Islands to Azores | 69
• | AN57 | Canary Islands to Madeira | 70
• | AN58 | Canary Islands to Gibraltar | 70
• | AN59 | Canary Islands to Northern Europe | 71

Sailing to the Canaries has never been considered difficult as the high percentage of northerly winds ensures good sailing conditions from Western Europe or the Mediterranean at most times of the year. This was the main reason for their popularity in the past as a port of call for ships on the trade routes to Africa and the Americas. The type of ship may have changed with the passing of time but the reasons remain the same for the estimated 3000 cruising boats that call at the Canaries every year. They arrive almost without exception from the north, the southbound passages being usually made at the end of summer or during autumn, as most sailors treat the Canaries as a staging post on their way to the Caribbean, and less commonly to West Africa or South America. However, in recent years this situation has been changing as more yachts spend longer cruising the Canaries, while others have made their permanent base there. Over the years, yachting facilities have been steadily improving, with a good range of repair and service facilities throughout the archipelago and every island having at least one marina.

For most boats the main destination on leaving the Canaries is the Caribbean. The time of departure from the Canaries is crucial, both for the conditions to be encountered en route and those expected on the other side of the ocean. The hurricane season in the Caribbean in theory lasts about six months, although the really dangerous period is August to October, with September the peak month for hurricanes. Most sailors plan to cruise the Eastern Caribbean Islands between December and April, which is not only the safest time of year but also has the most pleasant weather, with agreeable temperatures, little rain, and the trade winds blowing steadily throughout the winter months. Therefore a middle to late November departure from the Canaries suits most people’s plans and this is the time when the majority of boats leave the Canaries for their transatlantic passage. An earlier departure is not recommended, mainly because of the risk of a late hurricane. From the end of November until April the NE trade winds usually blow south of 20ºN, their average strength gradually increasing during February and March. As the trade winds move north with the sun, the summer months have the best sailing conditions for a passage to the Caribbean, but crossing the Atlantic at this time of year is definitely not recommended as the risk of hurricanes is very high.

As most passages take place in late November, the traditional practice has been to reach those lower latitudes as quickly as possible, thereby maximising the chances of finding steady winds for the crossing. Another good reason to make southing on leaving the Canaries is to be out of the influence of winter depressions. Low-pressure systems moving east across the Atlantic in winter occasionally deviate from their usual track and reach as far south as latitude 30ºN and even lower. As a consequence, SW or W winds may be generated as far south as the latitude of the Canaries and occasionally even further south.

AN50 Routes from the Canary Islands

Although the majority of passages to the Caribbean are sailed nonstop, in recent years the number of boats making a detour to the Cape Verdes has shown a steady increase, as the archipelago has become an attractive cruising destination. Some boats go even further and spend some time cruising neighbouring West Africa before setting off across the Atlantic. The best time to sail south to either the Cape Verdes or West Africa is the autumn, when favourable winds will be found all the way to Senegal. The Canaries are also a useful springboard for those sailing to Brazil or other destinations in South America.

Sailing from the Canaries to the Mediterranean or Northern Europe is a much more difficult undertaking on account of the prevailing northerlies that make passages in the opposite direction so easy. Passages to Gibraltar can be difficult at any time of the year and it is therefore essential to have enough time to wait for a spell of favourable winds. Although the prevailing winds are from NE, winds from SW are not uncommon in late spring and are normally associated with a depression or passing front.

The best route for a return voyage to Northern Europe is via Madeira and possibly the Azores. A detour to Madeira may be considered by those whose destination is Gibraltar or ports on the south coast of the Iberian Peninsula. The suggested stop in Madeira or Porto Santo allows you to wait there for a favourable change of weather.

The prevailing winds in the Canaries are NE throughout the year, being strongest in July and August and lightest in October and November. The high islands cause some local variations in both wind direction and strength. As a rule there are different winds in the lee of the islands compared to the coasts exposed to the trade winds. When the NE wind is blowing strongly, an opposing wind usually blows on the other side of the island, varying in force depending on the strength of the offshore wind. A funnelling effect is also felt along the coasts of some of the mountainous islands where the prevailing wind can be accelerated by up to 15 knots in places.

Atlantic depressions rarely come as far south as the Canaries, although small lows do develop near the islands and move northeast towards Gibraltar or east towards Africa. In summer months a strong easterly wind can blow hot from Africa, the air being laden with dust, which reduces visibility considerably.

Gales are rare, although occasionally these local depressions bring strong S or SW winds. Tropical storm Delta, which hit the Canary Islands with winds of up to 100 knots on 28 and 29 November 2005, causing widespread damage and a number of fatalities, was the first recorded tropical storm to affect this area.

• AN51 Canary Islands to Lesser Antilles

BEST TIME: | Mid-November to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, US 12 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A1d Canary Islands to the Eastern Caribbean |
| A1e Canary Islands to the Eastern Caribbean via the Cape Verdes and Brazil
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Crossing Guide, Sailors Guide to the Windward Islands, Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands, Cruising Guide to Trinidad & Tobago, Barbados and Guyana.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN51A |  |  |  |  |
Las Palmas | Canaria SE | Canaria S |  |  |
28°07.3’N, 15°24.0’W | 27°48.0’N, 15°21.0’W | 27°40.0’N, 15°35.0’W |  |  |
|  | Barbados SE | Barbados SW | Bridgetown | 2656
|  | 13°02.0’N, 59°31.0’W | 13°04.5’N, 59°37.0’W | 13°05.5’N, 59°37.2’W |
|  | Lucia NE |  |  |
|  | 14°07.0’N, 60°53.0’W |  |  |
|  | Lucia NW | Rodney NW | Rodney Bay | 2701
|  | 14°07.5’N, 60°57.5’W | 14°05.6’N, 60°58.7’W | 14°05.7’N, 60°57.9’W |
|  |  | Martinique SE | Le Marin | 2690
|  |  | 14°22.0’N, 60°51.0’W | 14°25.3’N, 60°54.5’W |
|  | Antigua SE | Antigua S | English Harbour | 2672
|  | 16°59.5’N, 61°44.0’W | 16°59.7’N, 61°46.0’W | 17°00.2’N, 61°45.8’W |

Route AN51B |  |  |  |  |
Santa Cruz | Tenerife NE |  |  |  |
28°27.5’N 16°14.8’N | 28°27.0’N, 16°14.0’W |  |  |  |
| Tenerife E |  |  |  |
| 28°07.5’N, 16°16.22.5’W |  |  |  |
| Tenerife SE |  |  |  |
| 28°07.5’N, 16°16.45.0’W |  |  |  |
| Hierro S |  |  |  |
| 27°36.0’N, 17°57.0’W |  |  |  |
|  | Barbados SE | Barbados SW | Bridgetown | 2606
Route AN51C |  |  |  |  |
Arrecife | Lanzarote E |  |  |  |
28°58.5’N, 13°30.0’W | 28°58.0’N, 13°29.0’W |  |  |  |
| Fuerteventura SE |  |  |  |
| 28°12.5’N, 13°52.5’W |  |  |  |
| Fuerteventura S |  |  |  |
| 28°00.0’N, 14°20.0’W |  |  |  |
| Canaria SE | Canaria S | Martinique SE | Le Marin | 2803
Route AN51D |  |  |  |  |
La Palma | Palma E |  |  |  |
28°40.2’N, 17°46.0’W | 28°40.0’N, 17°45.0’W |  |  |  |
| Palma SE |  |  |  |
| 28°34.5’N, 17°50.5’W |  |  |  |
| Palma S |  |  |  |
| 28°26.5’N, 17°50.5’W |  |  |  |
| Grenada S | Grenada SW | Grenada W | St George’s | 2679
| 11°58.0’N, 61°47.0’W | 12°00.0’N, 61°48.5’W | 12°02.0’N, 61°46.0’W | 12°02.8’N, 61°45.2’W |

This classic trade wind route has been plied by an enormous variety of vessels since Christopher Columbus himself set sail from the Canary Islands to expand the limits of the known world. Although a lot has been learned about prevailing winds and weather forecasting in the intervening years, the routeing suggestions made by Columbus as a result of his four voyages to the Caribbean are still valid and can hardly be improved upon. His two fastest passages took 21 days, an excellent time even by today’s standards. On both those voyages, a SW course was sailed by the fleet until steady trade winds were found in the vicinity of latitude 20ºN and only then was the course changed to the west. This essential rule of not setting a course for the desired destination until well inside the trade wind belt has been followed to advantage by all navigators since.

Passages in late November to early December may encounter mixed conditions soon after leaving the Canaries if a weak high-pressure ridge has positioned itself about 25ºN and may extend as far south as 15ºN. During the latter part of December, with a weak ridge lying much further south, it may be necessary to sail on a SSW track passing just west of the Cape Verdes so as to avoid the risk of light winds or calms on the more direct route. Once west of 50ºW, the trade winds should gradually pick up and ensure steady winds all the way to the final destination.

In recent years, the ready availability of weather information has resulted in two radically different approaches to passage planning. The first is to sail the traditional route by heading first in a generally SW direction until the area of established trade winds is reached from where the rest of the crossing is made on the latitude of the Caribbean destination. The second is to attempt to sail the shortest route across by taking best advantage of existing conditions, a trend usually favoured by the more competitive sailors. Although the traditional route is considerably longer, its main advantage is the higher probability of having favourable winds once the trade winds area has been reached, usually in the latitude of the Cape Verde Islands. The direct route can indeed be shorter both in miles and time, but as the route chosen at the outset is normally based on a forecast with a validity of only five to seven days, it carries the risk of encountering unfavourable winds in the second part of the passage. Indeed, the latest pilot charts for November and December show a higher percentage of westerly winds on the direct track from the Canaries to the Caribbean than on the more southern route that passes west of the Cape Verde Islands, where the risk of contrary winds is negligible.

On leaving Las Palmas it is usually best to sail due south and not turn SW too soon as the wind shadow of the island can extend as far as 20 miles. The only time when it may be advisable to sail around the north of Gran Canaria is in SW winds. If it is impossible to pass the SE extremity of Tenerife on one tack it is better to stay on the port tack and pass north of Tenerife and then south of La Palma.

Passages from Tenerife (route AN51B) starting from marina Santa Cruz should sail an initial course that runs parallel to the island’s east coast. Having reached its SE point, the route turns west to pass south of El Hierro, the westernmost of the Canary Islands. Passages starting from Lanzarote (route AN51C) should stay east and south of Fuerteventura before joining the transatlantic route south of Gran Canaria. At the other extreme of the archipelago, due to its westerly location and good provisioning, Santa Cruz on the island of La Palma is another attractive point of departure (route AN51D).

Regardless of the point of departure, the main concern is to move as soon as possible out of the region of calms and variable winds that surround the Canary Islands. Once well clear of the islands, the traditional tactic was to sail SSW for 1000 miles to pass between 200 and 300 miles northwest of the Cape Verde Islands before turning west. This suggestion to pass close to the Cape Verdes still makes sense as it is only on their latitude that one can be certain of finding steady trade winds. Nevertheless, the added mileage of such a detour must be taken into account, unless such a route is chosen as a precautionary measure to be able to stop in the islands in the case of an emergency. In such a case the most convenient stop is at Mindelo on the island of São Vicente, which has a marina with a modest range of repair facilities. The best choice of international flights is from the capital Praia.

A more direct route, which crosses latitude 20ºN in about 30ºW and latitude 15ºN in about 40ºW, will probably find the trade winds slightly later but has the advantage of being shorter. The latter was the traditional turning point from where sailing boats used to set course for the island of destination. With better weather information at their disposal, modern navigators should only use these hypothetical coordinates as a point of reference and refer to them only if such action is borne out by existing weather conditions. Unfortunately there is no hard and fast rule for an ideal route as weather conditions can vary from one year to another, and in some years successful fast passages have been made by boats taking the shortest route across while in other years those sailing the traditional route have been able to enjoy a perfect trade wind passage with favourable winds and pleasant weather.

The direction of the NE trade winds becomes more easterly as one moves west. Their strength is not very consistent either, with the average force 4 to 5 in early winter increasing to a steady force 5 from December onwards accompanied by a correspondingly high swell. The swell itself is only regular and steady in direction if the wind has been blowing from the same quarter over a long period, otherwise a cross swell is not uncommon, with a wind swell being superimposed over another swell generated by a storm many thousands of miles away. In some years the uncomfortable swell caused more complaints among transatlantic voyagers than the strength of the wind, or the lack of it. It would appear that practically no passage is spared at least one calm period, such calms lasting from a few hours to several days. They are usually followed by a burst of trade winds heralded by a procession of squalls. Gale force winds are rarely experienced in winter, except in squalls. This route has the benefit of both the Canary Current and the North Equatorial Current, which set SW and W at an average rate of 1⁄2 knot. Their constancy is not too reliable, although their direction is.

The above directions apply with small adjustments to all destinations in the Lesser Antilles, from Trinidad in the south to Antigua in the north. After the trade winds have been found, the best course can be set for any particular island and the last few hundred miles will probably be sailed on its latitude. The route to the Virgin Islands passes so close to Antigua that it is advisable to make landfall there before proceeding. For boats arriving from the east, the most convenient landfalls in the Eastern Caribbean are: Barbados: South Point, the southern extremity of Barbados. The Shallows, lying about 5 miles SE of that point, should be avoided in heavy weather as the seas break over them. Formalities are completed in the commercial port of Bridgetown. It is also possible to clear in at Port St Charles, on the NW coast, but the marina needs to be contacted in advance.

St Lucia: Hardy Point, at the NE extremity of St Lucia. Having sailed along the north coast of St Lucia, entry formalities can be completed at the marina in Rodney Bay.

Martinique: Cabrit Islet at the SE extremity of Martinique. The nearest place to complete formalities is Port du Marin, a perfectly protected inlet near the SE tip of the island. There are good facilities there including a marina, boatyard and a wide range of repair services. This is more convenient than the capital Fort de France, which is 20 miles away on the west coast of the island.

Antigua: Cape Shirley in the approaches to English Harbour on the south coast. This historic naval base continues to be the yachting capital of the Caribbean and deserves a visit whether as a first landfall or on a later occasion.

Grenada: Prickly Point at the southern extremity of Grenada, from where several marinas are within easy reach or the coast is followed to St George’s, the island’s picturesque capital and main harbour.

SailClear is a unified system developed by the Caribbean Customs Law Enforcement Council. It is system is available in Dominican Republic, Curaçao, Cayman Islands, Bermuda, Grenada, Saint Lucia, Saint Kitts, and Nevis, British Virgin Islands, Montserrat, Dominica, Anguilla, Turks and Caicos Islands. By registering in advance, Sailclear allows users to enter and update information about their vessel and crew while travelling between participating islands. http://www.sailclear.com.

• AN52 Canary Islands to Cape Verde Islands

BEST TIME: | October to May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4104, US 12 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A1e Canary Islands to the Eastern Caribbean via the Cape Verdes and Brazil |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Islands. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN52A |  |  |  |  |
Las Palmas | Canaria SE | Verde NE | Vicente NW | Mindelo | 866
28°07.3’N, 15°24.0’W | 27°48.0’N, 15°21.0’W | 17°08.0’N, 24°55.0’W | 16°54.5’N, 25°00.5’W | 16°53.2’N, 25°00.1’W |
|  | Sal NW |  |  |
|  | 16°59.0’N, 23°17.5’W |  |  |
|  | Santiago NE | Praia SE | Praia | 931
|  | 15°28.0’N, 23°30.5’W | 14°54.0’N, 23°29.0’W | 14°54.2’N, 23°30.5’W |
Route AN52B |  |  |  |  |
Santa Cruz | Tenerife NE |  |  |  |
28°27.5’N 16°14.8’N | 28°27.0’N, 16°14.0’W |  |  |  |
| Tenerife E |  |  |  |
| 28°07.5’N, 16°16.22.5’W |  |  |  |
| Tenerife SE | Verde NE | Vicente NW | Mindelo | 836
| 28°07.5’N, 16°16.45.0’W |  |  |  |

For many years the Cape Verde Islands were only used as an intermediate stage by a few cruising boats on passage to the Caribbean, West Africa or Brazil. Recently the islands have become a cruising destination in their own right with their main attraction being their stark beauty and the simplicity of life of the isolated community. Those who decide to visit the archipelago do not seem concerned by the absence of even basic facilities on most of the islands. One notable exception is Mindelo, on São Vicente Island, where there is a marina and an adequate range of repair facilities. Most of the boats that stop there do so to refill their tanks having used up all their fuel during a windless passage from the Canaries.

Starting from the port of Las Palmas, route AN52A follows the coast of Gran Canaria to its SE extremity from where a direct course can be set for the island of Santo Antão, the northernmost of the Cape Verde Islands. From there, the course can be altered for Mindelo, on the neighbouring island of São Vicente.

Route AN52B starts from Marina Santa Cruz with an initial course running parallel to Tenerife’s east coast. Having reached its SE point a direct course can be set to make landfall just north of the island of São Vicente in the approaches to Mindelo and its marina.

The winds between the Canary and Cape Verde Islands are predominantly NE but their consistency cannot be relied on. In October and November, winds between the two island groups are less constant in direction, although the NE trades gradually become established as one approaches the Cape Verde Islands. Southbound passages are aided by the SW-setting Canary Current, which merges with the North Equatorial Current in the vicinity of the islands. The visibility near the islands is often poor, either because of haze or the dust-laden harmattan, which blows here in winter.

The islands have three official ports of entry: Mindelo on São Vicente Island, the capital Praia on Santiago, and Palmeira on Sal. To visit any place in the Cape Verde Islands outside of the above ports, one needs special written permission from immigration, obtainable when clearing in at one of those ports.

• AN53 Canary Islands to West Africa

BEST TIME: | October to May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4104, US 12 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A1e Canary Islands to the Eastern Caribbean via the Cape Verdes and Brazil |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to West Africa. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Las Palmas | Canaria SE | Blanc | Nouadhibou SW | Nouadhibou | 512
28°07.3’N, 15°24.0’W | 27°48.0’N, 15°21.0’W | 21°10.0’N, 18°0.0’W | 20°42.0’N, 17°3.5’W | 20°51.0’N, 17°01.1’W |
|  |  | Vert | Dakar | 842
|  |  | 14°46.0’N, 17°38.0’W | 14°38.0’N, 17°26.0’W |
|  |  | Gambia | Banjul | 916
|  |  | 13°35.0’N, 16°45.0’W | 13°28.0’N, 16°34.0’W |

As in the case of the Cape Verde Islands, some West African countries, such as Senegal and the Gambia, as well as the offshore Bijagós Archipelago of Guinea-Bissau, are now attracting some of the more intrepid sailors looking for new and more challenging destinations. The best time to make this passage is in late autumn, when favourable winds will be found all along the coasts of Mauritania and Senegal. The NE trade winds blow consistently as far as the latitude of Dakar, but south of latitude 10ºN they become increasingly light and variable. South of Dakar, the winds are affected by the SW monsoon when SW and W winds predominate.

Boats leaving from Las Palmas should make for Canaria SE, from where a course should be set to pass west of Cap Blanc. If not intending to stop in Mauritania, it is recommended to stay well offshore to avoid the shallow waters and large number of fishing boats operating in this area. Those who intend to call at Nouadhibou, the main port of Mauritania, should approach the coast with great caution and attempt to make landfall NW of Cap Blanc at daybreak so as to reach port in daylight. The recommended waypoint marks the entrance into the Canal du Levrier, which leads into the commercial harbour.

Boats continuing to Senegal intending to call at St Louis, at the extreme north of that country, on the border with Mauritania, should be aware that the harbour entrance has a dangerous breaking bar and is therefore difficult to enter. Those bound for Dakar should sail the same route by setting a course for Cap Vert, the westernmost point of continental Africa. From there, the port of Dakar should be approached with caution on account of the heavy traffic. Boats entering Dakar must contact the port authority before entering the harbour and will normally be directed to Hann Bay. The local yacht club (Cercle de Voile Dakar) will help with entry formalities.

Boats not stopping at Dakar and bound for the Gambia should stay well clear of Cap Vert and, having passed it, set a course for Bald Cape in the approaches to Banjul, the capital and only port of entry into the Gambia. The time of arrival at the entrance of the River Gambia should be planned to coincide with a rising tide. As the harbour entrance is encumbered by shoals, entering the harbour at night should be avoided. The anchorage (Half Die) used by visiting yachts is at 13º26.5’N, 16º34.5’W. Visiting yachts should contact the port captain and may be instructed to go to the government dock for clearance. Permission to take the boat up the River Gambia, which is navigable for about 160 miles, can be obtained from the port authority in Banjul.

All rivers in this area are navigable and even keeled boats can travel far inland. A popular river with visiting yachts is the Casamance, which belongs to Senegal and lies south of the Gambian enclave. The main town on the Casamance is Ziguinchor, located some 50 miles upriver. Also navigable is the River Saloum, which has many attractions in its lower reaches. French charts for these West African countries are reported to be better than the British or American charts.

Just south of Senegal lies the former Portuguese colony of Guinea-Bissau. Its 150 miles of coastline is much indented by numerous estuaries and river mouths. The largest estuary is that of the Geba River, on the north bank of which lies the capital Bissau. The most interesting cruising area is the offlying Bijagós Archipelago, a group of sparsely populated islands rich in wildlife. Navigation requires great care because of strong currents and shallow waters.

• AN54 Canary Islands to Bahamas

BEST TIME: | March to April, December |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, US 12 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A1d Canary Islands to the Eastern Caribbean |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Crossing Guide, Northern Bahamas, Southern Bahamas. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Las Palmas | Canaria SE | Canaria S |  |  |
28°07.3’N, 15°24.0’W | 27°48.0’N, 15°21.0’W | 27°40.0’N, 15°35.0’W |  |  |
|  | San Salvador SE | San Salvador SW | San Salvador | 3236
|  | 23°54.5’N, 74°28.0’W | 23°55.7’N, 74°35.0’W | 24°02.7’N, 74 °33.0’W |

With the exception of Christopher Columbus, who sailed this route in 1492 and thereby established a permanent link between the Old and New Worlds, few modern boats attempt to sail nonstop to the Bahamas. However, this classic route can be useful for boats intending to sail to southern USA directly from the Canaries.

Being unaware of the hurricane season in the yet-to-be discovered lands he was heading for, Columbus made his passage from the Canaries in September and was extremely fortunate in having good weather throughout, or the history of the world might have been very different. Armed with modern knowledge about the behaviour of West Atlantic hurricanes, the passage should not be attempted before late November. For the transatlantic section of the voyage directions are similar to those detailed in route AN51. However, depending on weather conditions, it may not be necessary to dip as far south as do the boats going to islands in the Lesser Antilles. If the trade winds extend further north than 20ºN, it should be possible to lay a fairly direct course across.

Whichever course is chosen for the Atlantic crossing, on approaching the Eastern Caribbean Islands, a route should be sailed that passes north of the islands so as to stay well clear of any land. The route continues past the Turks and Caicos Islands before closing with San Salvador in the Outer Bahamas. Known by its original inhabitants as Guanahani, this island is now generally accepted as the place where Columbus made landfall in the New World. Having made landfall south of Sandy Point, the SW extremity of San Salvador, the route follows the west coast of the island passing close to Landfall Point where a modest cross marks the spot where it is believed that Columbus and his crew first stepped ashore. Entry formalities can be completed either at the main settlement of Cockburn Town or one mile further north at Riding Rock Marina.

• AN55 Canary Islands to Bermuda

BEST TIME: | April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, US 12 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A15d Voyages via the Canaries and Caribbean A16a Voyages from the Eastern Caribbean |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Bermuda Discovered. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN55A |  |  |  |  |
Las Palmas | Canaria SE | Canaria S | Bermuda E | St George’s | 2604
28°07.3’N, 15°24.0’W | 27°48.0’N, 15°21.0’W | 27°40.0’N, 15°35.0’W | 32°22.0’N, 64°38.0’W | 32°22.7’N, 64°39.8’W |

Route AN55B |  |  |  |  |
La Palma | Palma E | Palma SE |  |  |
28°40.2’N, 17°46.0’W | 28°40.0’N, 17°45.0’W | 28°34.5’N, 17°50.5’W |  |  |
|  | Palma S | Bermuda E | St George’s | 2432
|  | 28°26.5’N, 17°50.5’W |  |  |

The number of boats sailing nonstop from the Canaries to Bermuda is relatively small, probably because the best sailing conditions on this route coincide with the start of the hurricane season in the Western Atlantic. The greatest frequency of hurricanes in Bermuda itself has been recorded from mid-August to mid-October, June and July being considered relatively safe months.

For anyone in a hurry to return to the USA or Canada, this direct route has much to recommend it and fast passages have been recorded. If the voyage is made during the safe season, from late November to May, the winter trades are so far south that a detour to find them would take the track so close to the Lesser Antilles that it would be just as easy to make a stop there. As the sun changes its declination and starts moving north, the trade wind belt does the same and, from April to June, a passage to Bermuda can be sailed between latitudes 20º and 25ºN. The track should keep south of the Azores High where there is a high percentage of NE and E winds. West of the Azores High the winds will gradually veer from SE to SW. The temptation should be resisted to alter course for Bermuda too soon as this may lead into an area of variable winds. One should therefore aim to approach Bermuda from the SE. For the remaining distance the winds should be from the SW and S, which are the prevailing winds in Bermuda during summer. Landfall should be made east of St David’s Head, in the approaches to the Town Cut, which leads into St George’s Harbour, where entry formalities are completed.

• AN56 Canary Islands to Azores

BEST TIME: | May to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4011, US 12 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Islands. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN56A |  |  |  |  |
Las Palmas | Isleta |  | Maria S | Vila do Porto | 724
28°07.3’N, 15°24.0’W | 28°09.0’N, 15°23.0’W |  | 36°55.0’N, 25°08.0’W | 36°56.3’N, 25°08.9’W |
Route AN56B |  |  |  |  |
Tenerife | Tenerife E | Tenerife NE | Maria S | Vila do Porto | 691
28°27.3’N, 16°14.9’W | 28°31.5’N, 16°06.0’W | 28°40.0’N, 16°06.0’W |  |  |
|  | Maria W | Miguel SW | Ponta Delgada | 749
|  | 36°57.7’N, 25°12.5’W | 37°43.5’N, 25°41.0’W | 37°44.2’N, 25°39.0’W |
Route AN56C |  |  |  |  |
La Palma | Palma E | Palma NE | Maria S | Vila do Porto | 631
28°40.2’N, 17°46.0’W | 28°40.0’N, 17°45.0’W | 28°53.0’N, 17°35.0’W |  |  |

The most likely winds in summer will be from the NE making this a close-hauled passage, especially if one leaves from one of the more western islands such as La Palma. A contrary current of up to ½ knot may also be experienced.

Taking a departure point NE of La Palma, the direct course to Ponta Delgada, the capital of the Azores, leads so close to the island of Santa Maria that a stop at Vila do Porto should be considered. Boats departing from Tenerife or Gran Canaria should be able to sail on one tack, but if contrary winds make this impossible, the voyage can be interrupted in Madeira from where the same directions apply as for route AN43.

In the last decade the Azores have been affected by several tropical storms, the most recent being Hurricane Paulette in September 2020. In some cases the islands themselves were affected, in others the storm passed close to the archipelago. As hurricanes now pose a real risk to boats sailing through the area, starting with this edition the Azores are listed as being affected by tropical storms. Although the risk is low, this fact should be taken into account during the critical season.

• AN57 Canary Islands to Madeira

BEST TIME: | May to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4104, US 12 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Islands. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN57A |  |  |  |  |
Las Palmas | Isleta | Salvagem W | Madeira S | Funchal | 283
28°07.3’N, 15°24.0’W | 28°09.0’N, 15°23.0’W | 30°05.0’N, 16°12.0’W | 32°35.0’N, 16°54.0’W | 32°38.5’N, 16°54.0’W |
Route AN57B |  |  |  |  |
Tenerife | Tenerife E | Tenerife NE | Madeira S | Funchal | 244
28°27.3’N, 16°14.9’W | 28°31.5’N, 16°06.0’W | 28°40.0’N, 16°06.0’W |  |  |

As the prevailing winds of summer are from the northern quarter, this passage is best undertaken either in spring or autumn. Ideally, one should wait for a spell of southerly winds before leaving the Canaries. The direct route from both Tenerife and Gran Canaria passes close to the Salvagem Islands, which lie approximately halfway between the two island groups. As landing in these islands is prohibited without a permit and the area surrounding them has many dangers, it is advisable to pass them at a safe distance by setting a course for Salvagem W so the islands are passed on their west side. In an emergency it is possible to seek shelter in the anchorage at Cagarras Bay (30º08.3’N, 15º52.2’W), on the SW side of Salvagem Grande, where the resident caretaker is based. Continuing from Salvagem Grande to Madeira, the route should avoid the dangers north of the islands before a course is set for the capital Funchal or marina Quinta do Lorde, near Caniçal.

• AN58 Canary Islands to Gibraltar

BEST TIME: | March to May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4104, US 12 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Straits Sailing Handbook. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Las Palmas | Isleta | Espartel | Ahmiar | Gibraltar | 701
28°07.3’N, 15°24.0’W | 28°09.0’N, 15°23.0’W | 35°48.0’N, 05°58.0’E | 35°56.0’N, 5°29.0’W | 36°07.5’N, 5°23.0’W |

The prevailing winds on this route are northerly throughout the year, so the recommended time for a passage to the Mediterranean is in early spring when there is a higher probability of SW winds. Such winds are generated by a depression passing close to the Canaries in late winter and early spring. If persistent northerly winds are met after leaving the Canaries, it may be necessary to break the voyage in Madeira or Porto Santo and wait for the weather to change.

If conditions allow a direct route to be sailed to Gibraltar, a course should be set from Las Palmas for Cape Espartel, in the approaches to the Strait of Gibraltar. From there, the route stays on the African side of the strait just inshore of the east-going shipping lane. Having reached Cape Ahmiar, the route turns north and crosses the two shipping lanes. Landfall is made just west of Gibraltar’s main breakwater from where the two marinas, Queensway and Ocean Village, are within easy reach.

• AN59 Canary Islands to Northern Europe

BEST TIME: | April to June |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4011, US 14 |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN59A |  |  |  |  |
Las Palmas | Isleta | Maria S |  |  |
28°07.3’N, 15°24.0’W | 28°09.0’N, 15°23.0’W | 36°55.0’N, 25°08.0’W |  |  |
|  | Maria W | Miguel SW | Ponta Delgada |   777
|  | 36°57.7’N, 25°12.5’W | 37°43.5’N, 25°41.0’W | 37°44.2’N, 25°39.0’W |
|  | Miguel W |  |  |
|  | 37°50.0’N, 25°53.0’W |  |  |
|  | Miguel NW |  |  |
|  | 37°55.0’N, 25°51.0’W |  |  |
|  | Bishop | Lizard | Falmouth | 1458
|  | 49°48.0’N, 6°26.4’W | 49°55.0’N, 5°10.0’W | 50°08.0’N, 5°02.0’W |
|  | Cork SW | Roche | Crosshaven | 1462
|  | 51°43.0’N, 8°16.0’W | 51°47.25’S, 8°15.6’W | 51°48.6’N, 8°16.2’W |
Route AN59B |  |  |  |  |
Las Palmas | Isleta | Salvagem W |  |  |
|  | 30°05.0’N, 16°12.0’W |  |  |
|  | Madeira NW |  |  |
|  | 32°48.0’N, 17°20.0’W |  |  |
|  | Smalls SW |  |  |
|  | 51°40.0’N, 5°50.0’W |  |  |
|  | Man SW |  |  |
|  | 54°04.0’N, 5°08.0’W |  |  |
|  | Galloway SW |  |  |
|  | 54°34.0’N, 5°07.3’W |  |  |
|  | Kintyre SW | Ardmore E | Oban X | 1779
|  | 55°16.0’N, 5°54.0’W | 55°40.0’N, 5°58.5’W | 56°24.5’N, 5°29.5’W |

Sailing north from the Canaries is always hard on account of the prevailing northerly winds. With a better probability of SW winds between March and May than at other times of the year, this would be the best time to undertake this passage. Unless one is prepared, or forced by time considerations, to sail nonstop by taking the best tacks, the logical solution would be to break up the passage into stages. A first convenient stop would be either Madeira or Porto Santo, the continuation of the voyage from there being described in AN44.

A longer but probably easier way to sail to Northern Europe is by way of the Azores. Such a route would most likely entail an initial close-hauled leg to one of the islands in the Azores, such as São Miguel, Terceira or Faial, all of which have marinas and a good range of facilities. The advantage of this more westerly course is that the next leg should benefit from westerly winds north of the Azores so that a direct course could be sailed for either the English Channel or Ireland. The former would appeal primarily to anyone bound for ports in Western Europe. The latter may be attractive to boats bound not just for Ireland, the west coast of England or Scotland but also Scandinavia or Germany, in which case destinations in Northern Europe could be reached by way of the Irish Sea, Western Scotland and the Caledonian Canal as outlined in AN132.

A60 • Routes from the Cape Verde Islands and West Africa

• | AN61 | Cape Verde Islands to Azores | 73
• | AN62 | Cape Verde Islands to Lesser Antilles | 74
• | AN63 | West Africa to Azores | 75
• | AN64 | West Africa to Lesser Antilles | 75
• | AN65 | West Africa to Northern Brazil and Guyanas | 76
• | AN66 | Cape Verde Islands to Canary Islands | 77
• | AN67 | Cape Verde Islands to West Africa | 78
• | AN68 | Cape Verde Islands to Northern Brazil and Guyanas | 79

The Cape Verde Islands are a group of small islands 200 miles off the west coast of Africa. They used to be a busy coaling station frequented by intercontinental steamers and have now been rediscovered as a convenient stopover for those wishing to shorten their transatlantic passage to the Caribbean or Brazil. The Cape Verdes lie in the NE trade wind belt and the prevailing wind is NE most of the year. As the intertropical convergence zone moves to its most northerly position in summer, winds in July and August are more variable. This is also the time when tropical storms breed S or SW of the archipelago, some of which generate into hurricanes.

In neighbouring West Africa, the strong NE trades blowing across continental Africa between December and February can produce harmattan winds, which also affect the Cape Verde Islands. These often create a dust haze and cover the boat and sails in reddish dust. Distinguished by a yellow sky and a blurred horizon, this haze not only reduces visibility to a few hundred metres, but even when the visibility is several miles it makes it very difficult to estimate distances at sea. Therefore great care must be taken when approaching the Cape Verde Islands during such conditions.

AN60 Routes from the Cape Verde Islands and West Africa

For a taste of Africa, some of the best cruising on that continent is to be found in Senegal and Gambia, with the possibility of navigating the large rivers in this area. A cruise in West Africa is usually incorporated into a longer voyage by those making a detour on their way to the Caribbean or South America. As in other parts of the world, the first to discover these new cruising grounds were French sailors, who were aided by the fact that Senegal is a former French colony and French is widely spoken. A new destination attracting cruising boats is the Bijagos Archipelago of Guinea-Bissau, south of Gambia. The best time to visit the area is during the winter months, from December to April, when temperatures are pleasant and there is little rain. The summer months are hot, humid and wet.

Transatlantic passages starting from either West Africa or the Cape Verdes are easily accomplished as the winds in these latitudes are always favourable. More difficulties are experienced by boats intending to return to Europe as they have to beat against the prevailing NE winds. The usual solution is the longer route via the Azores.

• AN61 Cape Verde Islands to Azores

BEST TIME: | June to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, US 12 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Islands. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN61A |  |  |  |  |
Mindelo | Vicente NW | Verde NE | Maria S | Vila do Porto | 1204
16°53.2’N, 25°00.1’W | 16°54.5’N, 25°00.5’W | 17°08.0’N, 24°55.0’W | 36°55.0’N, 25°08.0’W | 36°56.5’N, 25°09’W |
|  | Maria W | Miguel SW | Ponta Delgada | 1261
|  | 36°57.7’N, 25°12.5’W | 37°43.5’N, 25°41.0’W | 37°44.2’N, 25°39.0’W |
Route AN61B |  |  |  |  |
Mindelo | Vicente NW | Verde NE |  |  |
|  | Pico SW | Faial SE | Horta | 1399
|  | 38°27.0’N, 28°34.0’W | 38°30.5’N, 28°37.0’W | 38°32.1’N, 28°37.0’W |

Northerly winds blow on average 80 per cent of the time on the route between these island groups. The optimum time for this passage is in late spring or early summer when the proportion of NE winds is higher than at other times and, depending on the type of boat, one may be able to lay the Azores on one tack. An additional bonus may be provided by a depression intersecting one’s track and, although the resulting SW winds may cause uncomfortable conditions, at least they will be blowing from a favourable direction. The winds in the latter part of the passage are greatly influenced by the location of the Azores High. This needs to be borne in mind as the direct route intersects the eastern part of the high. Being able to obtain up-to-date weather information can be a great bonus as it helps to choose the more favourable tack.

There are several attractive destinations in the Azores, such as Ponta Delgada, the capital of the archipelago. The route passes so closely to the island of Santa Maria that one may decide to stop first at its main port of Vila do Porto. Because of the NE winds, which will have been encountered en route, a more likely landfall will be further west, such as at Horta on the island of Faial, or even Lajes on the westernmost island of Flores.

• AN62 Cape Verde Islands to Lesser Antilles

BEST TIME: | December to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, US 12 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A1e Canary Islands to the Eastern Caribbean via Cape Verdes and Brazil
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Crossing Guide, Cruising Guide to the Windward Islands, Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN62A |  |  |  |  |
Mindelo | Vicente SW | Barbados SE | Barbados SW | Bridgetown | 2018
16°53.2’N, 25°00.1’W | 16°53.0’N, 25°05.0’W | 13°02.0’N, 59°31.0’W | 13°04.5’N, 59°37.0’W | 13°05.5’N, 59°37.2’W |
Route AN62B |  |  |  |  |
Mindelo | Vicente SW | Lucia NE |  |  |
|  | 14°07.0’N, 60°53.0’W |  |  |
|  | Lucia NW | Rodney NW | Rodney Bay | 2083
|  | 14°07.5’N, 60°57.5’W | 14°05.6’N, 60°58.7’W | 14°05.7’N, 60°57.9’W |
Route AN62C |  |  |  |  |
Mindelo | Vicente SW |  | Martinique SE | Le Marin | 2079
|  |  | 14°22.0’N, 60°51.0’W | 14°25.3’N, 60°54.5’W |
Route AN62D |  |  |  |  |
Mindelo | Vicente SW |  | Antigua SE | English Harbour | 2107
|  |  | 16°59.5’N, 61°44.0’W | 17°00.2’N, 61°45.8’W |
Route AN62E |  |  |  |  |
Mindelo | Vicente SW | Grenada S |  |  |
|  | 11°58.0’N, 61°47.0’W |  |  |
|  | Grenada SW | Grenada W | St George’s | 2165
|  | 12°00.0’N, 61°48.5’W | 12°02.0’N, 61°46.0’W | 12 °02.8’N, 61 °45.2’W |

Columbus was first to see the attraction of these islands as a better springboard for a trade wind passage across the Atlantic than the Canaries and he set off on his third voyage to the Caribbean from there. Still unaware of the hurricane seasons, Columbus left the Cape Verdes on 4 July 1498 and arrived in Trinidad 27 days later, the slow crossing being due to sailing too far south into the doldrums.

The advantage of this route is not only that the actual transatlantic passage is shorter but also that by being situated for most of the year in the heart of the NE trades, the Cape Verdes make a perfect start for a transatlantic passage. Fast passages are usually logged by boats starting off from the Cape Verdes provided their course does not dip too far south into an area where the trade winds become less constant. The best place to prepare for the crossing is Mindelo, on São Vicente Island, as it has the best facilities in the islands. More detailed directions for the transatlantic passage are given in route AN51.

• AN63 West Africa to Azores

BEST TIME: | April to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, US 12 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Islands. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN63A |  |  |  |  |
Dakar | Dakar S | Vert | Maria S | Vila do Porto | 1404
14°40.0’N, 17°24.6’W | 14°38.0’N, 17°26.0’W | 14°46.0’N, 17°38.0’W | 36°55.0’N, 25°8.0’W | 36°56.5’N, 25°09’W |
|  | Maria W | Miguel SW | Ponta Delgada | 1472
|  | 36°57.7’N, 25°12.5’W | 37°43.5’N, 25°41.0’W | 37°44.2’N, 25°39.0’W |
Route AN63B |  |  |  |  |
Dakar | Dakar S | Vert |  |  |
|  | Pico SW | Faial SE | Horta | 1555
|  | 38°27.0’N, 28°34.0’W | 38°30.5’N, 28°37.0’W | 38°32.1’N, 28°37.0’W |

As outlined in route AN61, northerly winds predominate in the area south of the Azores at all times of the year and passages should therefore be timed for a period when the proportion of such winds is lowest. Starting off from one of the West African ports, as opposed to the Cape Verdes, has the advantage of a better angle in relation to the prevailing winds, so unless one has a very good reason to stop in the Cape Verdes, the valuable easting should not be lost.

For boats leaving from Dakar the recommended route stays well to the east of the Cape Verdes, but should the need arise, the island of Sal is in the most convenient position to call in an emergency. The route passes west of the Canary Islands, and north from there the winds are very much dependent on the location of the Azores High. If this lies further south than its usual seasonal position, light winds can be expected in the vicinity of the Azores. There are several convenient destinations in the Azores, such as Ponta Delgada, the capital of the archipelago. As the route passes closely to the island of Santa Maria, a first stop could be made at its main port of Vila do Porto. Because of the NE winds earlier in the passage, a more likely landfall will be further west, such as at Horta on the island of Faial.

• AN64 West Africa to Lesser Antilles

BEST TIME: | December to May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, US 12 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A1e Canary Islands to the Eastern Caribbean via Cape Verdes and Brazil |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to the Windward Islands, Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN64A |  |  |  |  |
Dakar | Dakar S | Senegal W |  |  |
14°40.0’N, 17°24.6’W | 14°38.0’N, 17°26.0’W | 14°30.0’N, 17°43.0’W |  |  |
|  | Verde S |  |  |
|  | 14°50.0’N, 23°30.0’W |  |  |
|  | Barbados SE | Barbados SW | Bridgetown | 2460
|  | 13°02.0’N, 59°31.0’W | 13°04.5’N, 59°37.0’W | 13°05.5’N, 59 °37.2’W |

Route AN64B |  |  |  |  |
Dakar | Dakar S | Senegal W |  |  |
|  | Verde S | Martinique SE | Le Marin | 2525
|  |  | 14°22.0’N, 60°51.0’W | 14°25.3’N, 60°54.5’W |
Route AN64C |  |  |  |  |
Banjul | Gambia | Barbados SE | Barbados SW | Bridgetown | 2514
13°28.0’N, 16°34.0’W | 13°35.0’N, 16°45.0’W |  |  |  |
Route AN64D |  |  |  |  |
Banjul | Gambia | Verde S |  |  |
|  | Antigua SE | Antigua S | English Harbour | 2621
|  | 16°59.5’N, 61°44.0’W | 16°59.7’N, 61°46.0’W | 17°00.2’N, 61°45.8’W |

Whether leaving from a port in Senegal or the Gambia, steady favourable winds will be encountered on this route throughout the winter months. From the Cape Verdes onward this route is similar to route AN62. As the Cape Verdes are so close to the direct route it may be convenient to stop there before proceeding west. If leaving from mainland Africa direct, especially from more southern ports, attention must be paid to the currents both in the vicinity of the coast and further offshore. Sailing close to the southern limit of the NE trade winds one should be aware of the danger of being pushed by a branch of the North Equatorial Current towards the doldrums and an area of less steady winds. More details about the Atlantic crossing are given in route AN51.

• AN65 West Africa to Northern Brazil and Guyanas

BEST TIME: | November to May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, US 12 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A1e Canary Islands to the Eastern Caribbean via Cape Verdes and Brazil A19 Voyages from Europe to South America |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN65A |  |  |  |  |
Dakar | Dakar S | Senegal W |  |  |
14°40.0’N, 17°24.6’W | 14°38.0’N, 17°26.0’W | 14°30.0’N, 17°43.0’W |  |  |
|  | Noronha N | Noronha NW | Fernando de Noronha | 1101
|  | 3°47.0’S, 32°23.0’W | 3°49.0’S, 32°24.3’W | 3°49.9’S, 32 °24.3’W |
Route AN65B |  |  |  |  |
Dakar | Dakar S | Senegal W | Fortaleza N | Fortaleza | 1412
|  |  | 3°40.0’S, 38°24.3’W | 3°41.8’S, 38°29.0’W |
|  |  | Amazon NE | Belém | 2085
|  |  | 0°06.0’N, 47°33.0’W | 1°27.0’S, 48°31.0’W |
|  | Orange | Mahury | Degrad des Cannes | 2144
|  | 5°03.0’N, 50°43.0’W | 4°57.0’N, 52°09.0’W | 4°51’2’N, 52°15.0’W |
|  |  | Suriname | Paramaribo | 2298
|  |  | 6°06.0’N, 55°12.0’W | 5°58’N, 55°11’W |
|  |  | Demerara | Georgetown | 2450
|  |  | 6°58.0’N, 58°03.0’W | 6°50.7’N, 58°09.7’W |

Northerly winds prevail along this route as far as the ITCZ, and where it should be crossed will decide the initial course. This decision depends on a multitude of factors but will be dictated primarily on the chosen destination. Those bound for ports in northern Brazil may prefer to take advantage of the west-setting North Equatorial Current and cross further west. Those heading for southern Brazil may decide to do it sooner where the doldrums are narrower. This also means that the SE trade winds will be met at a better angle.

Those bound for ports in southern Brazil should be aware that dangerous shallow areas extend off the coast, especially near river mouths. If entering any of these rivers, attention must be paid to the strong tides. Passages to southern destinations can be interrupted at Fernando de Noronha Island where entry formalities into Brazil may be completed.

Route AN65B is usually sailed by boats heading for Belém, on the Pará River in the Amazon Delta. Although such a destination would make this into a transequatorial route, in order to benefit from better conditions on this passage, the crossing should be made north of the equator. In such a case, knowing the position of the ITCZ is essential so as to minimise the time spent in the doldrums. Slow passages with violent squalls and a contrary current have been recorded during summer. The main reason for choosing to make this passage at such a time is to arrive in Amazonia at the start of the dry season (July). Having made landfall at the recommended waypoint, boats bound for Belém should head for the entrance into Canal do Espadarte, which leads to the Pará River.

The three former Guyanas, French (Guyane), Dutch (Suriname) and British Guyana, attract a small number of cruising boats. Entry formalities in French Guyana are completed at the main port Degrad des Cannes. The recommended waypoint is close to the landfall buoy at the entry into the channel leading into the Mahury River. Visiting boats normally anchor in the river, upstream of the commercial harbour.

The port of entry for Suriname is Paramaribo, approximately 13 miles up the Suriname River. Landfall is made close to the buoy marking the start of the channel into the Suriname River. Arriving boats must contact the Suriname Maritime Authority on channels 12 or 16 who will advise where to anchor.

The least visited of the three countries is Guyana itself, where the only official port of entry is the capital Georgetown. The landfall buoy marks the channel into the Demerara River, with the capital on its east bank. Lighthouse Service should be contacted on channel 16 and it is advisable to arrive in daylight and during office hours. The service of a local agent is required to complete entry formalities.

• AN66 Cape Verde Islands to Canary Islands

BEST TIME: | February to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4104, US 12 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Islands. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN66A |  |  |  |  |
Mindelo | Vicente NW | Verde NE | Hierro E | Estaca | 764
16°53.2’N, 25°00.1’W | 16°54.5’N, 25°00.5’W | 17°18.0’N, 24°55.0’W | 27°43.0’N, 17°55’W | 27°47.0’N, 17°54.0’W |
Route AN66B |  |  |  |  |
Mindelo | Vicente NW | Verde NE | Gomera E | San Sebastian | 801
|  |  | 28°04.5’N, 17°05.0’W | 28°05.0’N, 17°06.5’W |
Route AN66C |  |  |  |  |
Praia | Praia SE | Santiago NE |  |  |
14°54.2’N, 23°30.5’W | 14°54.0’N, 23°29.0’W | 15°28.0’N, 23°30.5’W |  |  |
|  | Sal NW | Hierro E | Estaca | 844
|  | 16°59.0’N, 23°17.5’W |  |  |
Route AN66D |  |  |  |  |
Praia | Praia SE | Santiago NE | Gomera E | San Sebastian | 879

A windward passage for most of the year, this route will occasionally benefit from a spell of SE winds usually associated with a low over neighbouring Africa. Such winds usually occur in February and March, so it may pay to wait for a favourable spell before leaving. Occasionally, in winter and early spring, the area south of the Canaries will have a spell of NW winds as a front passes to the north of the archipelago. Because the winds are rarely constant between the two island groups, it is advisable to take short tacks and keep close to the rhumb line. For boats arriving from the south, and using the Cape Verdes as an intermediate stopover, the capital Praia is a convenient place to clear in but it lacks any facilities. The better alternative is Mindelo, on São Vicente Island, which has a marina and a modest range of repair facilities. Its location also makes it a good place to start the passage to the Canaries. The most convenient landfalls are the two western islands of El Hierro and La Gomera, both of which have marinas in their main ports.

• AN67 Cape Verde Islands to West Africa

BEST TIME: | October to May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4104, US 12 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A1e Canary Islands to the Eastern Caribbean via the Cape Verdes and Brazil |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to West Africa. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN67A |  |  |  |  |
Praia | Praia SE | Senegal W | Dakar S | Dakar | 355
14°54.2’N, 23°30.5’W | 14°54.0’N, 23°29.0’W | 14°30.0’N, 17°43.0’W | 14°38’N, 17°26’W | 14°40.0’N, 17°24.6’W |
Route AN67B |  |  |  |  |
Praia | Praia SE |  | Gambia | Banjul | 414
|  |  | 13°35.0’N, 16°45.0’W | 13°28.0’N, 16°34.0’W |
Route AN67C |  |  |  |  |
Praia | Praia SE | Geba | Bissau W | Bissau | 506
|  | 11°51.0’N, 16°13.6’W | 11°41.0’N, 15°55.6’W | 11°51.0’N, 16°35.0’W |
|  |  |  | Bubaque | 540
|  |  |  | 11°18.1’N, 15°49.5’W. |

Between November and March, with the prevailing winds blowing from the NE, passages from the Cape Verdes to the African mainland, especially Senegal, although relatively short, are usually hard on the wind. For this reason, boats arriving from the north and planning to visit both the Cape Verdes and Senegal before continuing to the Caribbean should visit West Africa first. Passages to more southern destinations, such as Gambia or Guinea-Bissau, will benefit from the prevailing NE winds which become weaker closer to the mainland. The area south of the Cape Verde Islands is subject to the SW monsoon from June to October, although the frequency of southerly winds is very low north of latitude 15ºN, even at the height of the SW monsoon.

For those who plan to stop in the Cape Verdes first, Mindelo, on São Vicente Island, is the best starting point for a cruise of the archipelago as the islands can be visited with favourable winds and in logical succession. The capital Praia, on the island of Santiago, is a good departure point for passages to the African mainland.

An interesting and as yet little visited cruising destination is Guinea-Bissau, especially its unspoilt offshore islands. The most attractive among them are those of the Bijagós Archipelago. Entry formalities can be completed at Bubaque, the main settlement of the archipelago, located on the north side of Bubaque Island. The access from the south is through the Orango Channel, and from the north through the Geba Channel. The latter also leads to the capital Bissau. Navigation in Guinea-Bissau, and especially among the offshore islands, is reported to be very challenging due to unreliable charts and the general absence of aids to navigation.

• AN68 Cape Verde Islands to Northern Brazil and Guyanas

BEST TIME: | November to May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, US 12 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A1e Canary Islands to the Eastern Caribbean via Cape Verdes and Brazil |  |
WAYPOINTS |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN68A |  |  |  |  |
Mindelo | Vincente SW | Noronha N | Noronha NW | Fernando de Noronha | 1321
16°53.2’N, 25°00.1’W | 16°53.0’N, 25°05.0’W | 3°47.0’S, 32°23.0’W | 3°49.0’S, 32°24.3’W | 3°49.9’S, 32 °24.3’W |
Route AN68B |  |  |  |  |
Mindelo | Vincente SW |  | Fortaleza N | Fortaleza | 1473
|  |  | 3°40.0’S, 38°24.3’W | 3°41.8’S, 38°29.0’W |
|  |  | Amazon NE | Belém | 1767
|  |  | 0°06.0’N, 47°33.0’W | 1°27.0’S, 48°31.0’W |
|  | Orange | Mahury | Degrad des Cannes | 1760
|  | 5°03.0’N, 50°43.0’W | 4°57.0’N, 52°09.0’W | 4°51’2’N, 52°15.0’W |
|  |  | Suriname | Paramaribo | 1897
|  |  | 6°06.0’N, 55°12.0’W | 5°58’N, 55°11’W |
|  |  | Demerara | Georgetown | 2039
|  |  | 6°58.0’N, 58°03.0’W | 6°50.7’N, 58°09.7’W |
Route AN68C |  |  |  |  |
Praia | Praia S | Noronha N | Noronha NW | Fernando de Noronha | 1243
14°54.2’N, 23°30.5’W | 14°53.0’N, 23°30.5’W |  |  |  |
Route AN68D |  |  |  |  |
Praia | Praia S |  | Fortaleza N | Fortaleza | 1429
|  |  | Amazon NE | Belém | 1773
|  | Orange | Mahury | Degrad des Cannes | 1804
|  |  | Suriname | Paramaribo | 1952
|  |  | Demerara | Georgetown | 2100

Used increasingly as a cruising hub by boats bound for South America, the Cape Verdes also make a good starting point for passages to destinations in Northern Brazil, Amazonia and the Guyanas. Directions are similar to those outlined in AN65.

A70 • Routes from the Lesser Antilles

• | AN71 | Lesser Antilles to Venezuela | 82
• | AN72 | Lesser Antilles to ABC Islands and Colombia | 82
• | AN73 | Lesser Antilles to Panama | 84
• | AN74 | Lesser Antilles to Greater Antilles | 85
• | AN75 | Lesser Antilles to Western Caribbean and Gulf of Mexico | 88
• | AN76 | Lesser Antilles to Bahamas and Florida | 91
• | AN77 | Lesser Antilles to North America | 94
• | AN78 | Lesser Antilles to Bermuda | 96
• | AN79 | Lesser Antilles to Azores and mainland Europe | 97

The Lesser Antilles, consisting of the Windward and Leeward Islands, continue to be the most popular cruising destination in the North Atlantic. Although commonly referred to as the Eastern Caribbean, that term includes both the Lesser Antilles and the Virgin Islands, which are treated separately in AN80. The majority of sailors, whether coming from Europe or North America, usually spend a season cruising the islands before embarking on the return voyage home. Most plan to arrive as soon as possible after the end of the hurricane season so as to be able to enjoy most of the safe winter season. A great exodus takes place between the middle of April and the end of May, when northbound boats leave either directly for the mainland or via Bermuda, while most eastbound boats head directly for the Azores. Some boats bound for Western Europe make the detour to Bermuda, but that route is mostly sailed by boats bound for the east coast of North America. The direct route to the Azores, without calling at Bermuda, has been gaining in popularity in recent years as it shortens the distance by several hundred miles. Similarly, many American and Canadian sailors now prefer to sail nonstop to the mainland.

One of the most travelled routes from the Eastern Caribbean is the route to the Azores. There cannot be many sailors embarking on this passage who are not familiar with the stories of calms and light winds that may be encountered on this route where ships used to be becalmed for days on end in the so-called Horse Latitudes. This old sailors’ tale has survived from the early days of transatlantic voyages when heavy, unwieldy ships needed strong winds to make progress and were becalmed not only when there was no wind but in any light winds below 10 knots. Most modern yachts continue to sail in such winds and, were they to be entirely becalmed, the majority of present-day sailors would simply turn on their engine. The latest pilot charts dispel that long-held belief and show that in May and June, when most passages along this route are undertaken, the percentage of calms and light winds is minimal. This has been confirmed by sailors who have sailed this route in recent years. It is therefore high time that this myth is laid to rest deep down at the bottom of the Sargasso Sea alongside that of the Bermuda Triangle, another myth based on rumours but no facts.

Most boats heading west across the Caribbean Sea are bound for the Panama Canal. If this passage is made in winter, when the trade winds are at their strongest, large seas can be expected on the way to Panama. The situation improves with the approach of summer and passages in April and May are more comfortable. Rather than sail directly to Panama, many boats now cross the Caribbean Sea in shorter stages by calling at the offshore islands of Aruba, Bonaire and Curaçao, and also Colombia. In Panama itself, the islands of San Blas continue to be one of the most interesting destinations in the area. The main advantage of cruising along this southerly track in shorter stages is that the area is rarely affected by tropical storms. Occasionally, however, a hurricane does reach Venezuela or the southern islands of the Eastern Caribbean. Although Panama itself has only been affected directly by one hurricane, in recent years tropical storms have moved closer. So even if Panama may be considered relatively safe, planning to make a passage across the Caribbean Sea during the critical season should be avoided.

Most sailors bound for ports on the US or Canadian seaboard take their leave from the Eastern Caribbean in one of the northern islands, such as Antigua, St Martin, or one of the Virgins. A less frequented route to the US east coast takes its departure from one of the centrally located islands, such as St Lucia, and heads for the Mona Passage, west of Puerto Rico, from where it continues north of Hispaniola and on to the Bahamas. Such a southern route has certain attractions for anyone bound for Florida or one of the southern states. The other alternative is to take the offshore route south of all the Greater Antilles, and leave the Caribbean Sea either through the Windward Passage or the Yucatan Channel. This route offers plenty of opportunities for stops in the Dominican Republic, Cuba or Jamaica.

One of the main attractions of the Lesser Antilles is their weather. During the winter months the NE trades blow consistently and both day and night temperatures are pleasant. With few exceptions, the average temperature rarely varies from 26ºC to 28ºC throughout the year. In late summer and autumn, when the trade winds ease up, the threat of hurricanes spoils this perfection. The number of boats that continue cruising during this period is relatively small because of the fear of being caught out by a hurricane. Although not recommended, it is possible to continue cruising, provided some basic precautions are observed, such as paying close attention to weather forecasts, being prepared to move to a safe area at short notice and having a detailed emergency plan to be put into effect as soon as a tropical storm is predicted. This is something that most insurance companies may not agree with and it should be cleared up before being committed to such a plan.

AN70 Routes from the Lesser Antilles

From the middle of December until March, the trade winds blow between NE and ENE, usually at a constant 15 to 20 knots. Occasionally they increase to 25 or even 30 knots for a few days and can have stronger gusts, especially in January and February. As summer approaches, the wind tends to veer E and even SE, gradually backing to NE towards the latter part of the year. In summer the winds are lighter, from 12 to 15 knots in June through to September. This is the rainy season, particularly from August to November.

Occasionally the weather is interrupted by an easterly wave, a low-pressure trough that moves westward and can develop into a hurricane. Whenever the wind shifts to the north during the summer months, a spell of strong winds can be expected. Early hurricanes usually form in the Caribbean Sea and track NW or N. From the end of June the breeding ground for tropical depressions moves east to an area about halfway between the Cape Verdes and Barbados from where they track WNW or NW. Towards the end of the hurricane season the breeding ground moves west towards the Caribbean Sea. Hurricanes are more frequent in the more northern Leeward Islands than in the southern Windward Islands lying further south, and rarely strike the most southerly islands such as Grenada, Trinidad and Tobago. The likelihood of experiencing such a storm is lower the further south and east one is at the height of the hurricane season. In fact Grenada has been affected directly or indirectly by hurricanes on several occasions, the most destructive being Hurricane Ivan in 2004. Trinidad itself, although considered to be outside the tropical storm belt, was hit by two tropical storms in recent years, Bret in 2017 and Karen in 2019.

• AN71 Lesser Antilles to Venezuela

BEST TIME: | December to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to Trinidad & Tobago, Barbados and Guyana, Cruising Guide to Venezuela & Bonaire.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
St George’s | Grenada W | Testigos | Margarita E | Porlamar | 141
12°02.8’N, 61°45.2’W | 12°02.’N, 61°46.0’W | 11°27.0’N, 63°8.0’W | 11°00.0’N, 63°43.0’W | 10°56.0’N, 63°51.0’W |

Passages on this route benefit from favourable winds throughout the year. Sometimes in winter, between January and March, when the trade winds blow strongly, sailing conditions can be rough. Better conditions are found at the change of seasons when winds continue to be favourable, but are usually lighter than in winter. On all westbound passages allowance should be made for the strong Equatorial Current, which can set westward at rates of up to 2 knots.

Boats leaving from Grenada normally sail directly to Porlamar, on the SE coast of Margarita Island, the nearest official port of entry. The direct route passes dangerously close to Los Testigos, a group of islands surrounded by shallows and reefs, which should be given a wide berth unless planning to stop there. Although not a port of entry, boats are usually allowed to make a short stop by obtaining permission from the Coast Guard office on Isla Iguana.

From St George’s Harbour, the recommended route passes north of Los Testigos before the course is altered for Punta el Morro, in the approaches to Porlamar. All formalities are completed ashore at the port captain’s office.

Although boats leaving from ports further north in the Lesser Antilles can also sail an offshore route to Venezuela, a more interesting alternative is to sail south in short stages by following the chain of islands and take your leave from Grenada.

• AN72 Lesser Antilles to ABC Islands and Colombia

BEST TIME: | December to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A1f Eastern Caribbean to Panama
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to Trinidad & Tobago, Barbados and Guyana, Cruising Guide to Venezuela & Bonaire, The ABC Islands.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN72A |  |  |  |  |
St George’s | Grenada W | Roques N |  |  |
12°02.8’N, 61°45.2’W | 12°02.’N, 61°46.0’W | 12°10.0’N, 66°40.0’W |  |  |
|  | Aves N |  |  |
|  | 12°12.0’N, 67°34.0’W |  |  |
|  | Bonaire SE | Bonaire SW | Kralendijk | 387
|  | 12°02.0’N, 68°11.0’W | 12°00.5’N, 68°18.8’W | 12°07.0’N, 68°18.7’W |
Route AN72B |  |  |  |  |
St George’s |  | Roques N |  |  |
|  | Aves N |  |  |
|  | Bonaire SE |  |  |
|  | Bonaire SW | Curaçao SW | Willemstad | 423
|  |  | 12°01.5’N, 68°49.0’W | 12°05.5’N, 68°56.5’W |
Route AN72C |  |  |  |  |
St George’s | Grenada W | Bonaire N |  |  |
|  | 12°23.0’N, 68°23.5’W |  |  |
|  | Curaçao N | Aruba S | Oranjestad | 489
|  | 12°26.0’N, 69°09.0’W | 12°23.5’N, 69°53.0’W | 12°30.3’N, 70°02.5’W |
Route AN72D |  |  |  |  |
St George’s | Grenada W | Roques N |  |  |
|  | Aruba N |  |  |
|  | 12°45.0’N, 70°00.0’W |  |  |
|  | Gallinas | Santa Marta N | Santa Marta | 810
|  | 12°55.0’N, 71°38.0’W | 11°20.0’N, 74°10.0’W | 11°14.5’N, 74°13.0’W |
|  | Augusta |  |  |
|  | 11°25.0’N, 75°0.0’W |  |  |
|  | Zamba | Boca | Cartagena | 870
|  | 10°50.0’N, 75°28.0’W | 10°23.5’N, 75°35.0’W | 10°23.5’N, 75°34.0’W |
Route AN72E |  |  |  |  |
English Harbour | Antigua S | Montserrat NW |  |  |
17°00.2’N, 61°45.8’W | 16°59.7’N, 61°46.0’W | 16°52.0’N, 62°15.0’W |  |  |
Rodney Bay | Rodney SW | Gallinas | Santa Marta N | Santa Marta | 850/855
14°05.7’N, 60°57.9’W | 14°04.5’N, 61°00.0’W |  |  |  |
|  | Augusta |  |  |
|  | Zamba | Boca | Cartagena | 911/915

The former Dutch colonies off the coast of Venezuela are easily reached from any of the Lesser Antilles as both wind and current are in one’s favour virtually throughout the year. The route from Grenada passes north of a number of Venezuelan islands, such as La Blanquilla, Orchilla and Los Roques. From outside St George’s Harbour, a course should be set to pass at a safe distance north of Los Roques. The next waypoint is set north of Aves Island from where the course can be altered to make landfall south of Lacre Punt at Bonaire’s southern extremity. From there the west coast of the island should be followed to the main port of Kralendijk. The port captain should be contacted by VHF radio to obtain instructions where to moor to complete entry formalities.

Boats planning to sail nonstop to Curaçao (route AN72B) should sail a similar route to AN72A as far as Bonaire SW. Continuing west from there, the route passes close to the north of Klein Curaçao and makes landfall at the southern extremity of Curaçao. The capital Willemstad is halfway up the island’s west coast. The port captain should be contacted on channel 12 or 14 for docking instructions. Yachts may also clear at the marina in Spanish Water.

Those who plan to sail nonstop to Aruba (route AN72C) can sail a more direct route by staying north of both Bonaire and Curaçao, and then alter course for the landfall waypoint set south of Punta Basora at Aruba’s southern extremity. Aruba port control should be contacted on channel 16 to request docking instructions. Both the capital Oranjestad and the commercial port of Barcadera are located on the west coast and entry formalities can be completed at either.

The once precarious safety situation in Colombia has shown signs of improvement in recent years and this has made it possible to include Colombia in one’s cruising plans. The ABC Islands are so close to the direct route from the Lesser Antilles to Colombia that most boats stop there on their way west. A direct route that stays north of all ABC Islands can be sailed by those who prefer to sail to Colombia without stopping en route. For boats on a direct passage from Grenada to Colombia an intermediate waypoint has been set north of Guajira Peninsula which allows a track to be sailed just outside the 1000-metre line where less rough seas can be expected than further inshore. This waypoint is close to the point where Colombian waters are entered. From there, the recommended route runs parallel to the Colombian coast, with the option of calling at Santa Marta and Cartagena, two of the oldest colonial cities in South America. Having passed Gallinas, and clear of land, boats bound for Santa Marta should alter course to Santa Marta N, then alter course again to pass between the Moro Grande island and the mainland. From there a direct course can be sailed to Marina Santa Marta, located just south of the container port. The marina normally deals with entry formalities.

Boats bound for Cartagena should continue to the waypoint set off Zamba Shallows, which should be passed at a fair distance as the shallows are reported to extend further west than shown on charts. From there, the course can be altered to the port of Cartagena. The main access channel into Cartagena is Boca Chica, which is used by commercial shipping. Yachts using this channel must contact port control on channels 14 or 16. Most cruising boats use the narrower Boca Grande. The channel entrance is marked by two buoys but there are no leading marks and entry at night might be difficult. The maximum depth of Boca Grande is 2.35 m (7.5 feet). The GPS position of the Boca Grande entrance is reported at 10º 23.370’N, 75º 34.285’W. Formalities can be completed at one of the two yacht clubs (Club Nautico and Club de Pesca), either of which should be contacted on channel 16 for docking information.

• AN73 Lesser Antilles to Panama

BEST TIME: | April, December |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A1f Eastern Caribbean to Panama |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Panama Cruising Guide. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN73A |  |  |  |  |
English Harbour | Antigua S | Montserrat NW |  |  | 1156
17°00.2’N, 61°45.8’W | 16°59.7’N, 61°46.0’W | 16°52.0’N, 62°15.0’W |  |  |
Rodney Bay | Rodney SW |  |  |  | 1160
14°05.7’N, 60°57.9’W | 14°04.5’N, 61°0.0’W |  |  |  |
St George’s | Grenada W | Gallinas |  |  | 1114
12°02.8’N, 61°45.2’W | 12°02.5’N, 61°47.0’W | 12°55.0’N, 71°38.0’W |  |  |
|  | Farallones | Cristobal N | Cristobal |
|  | 9°40.0’N, 79°38.5’W | 9°26.5’N, 79°54.5’W | 9°23.3’N, 79°55.1’W |
Route AN73B |  |  |  |  |
English Harbour | Antigua S |  |  |  | 1098
Rodney Bay | Rodney SW |  |  |  | 1101
St George’s | Grenada W | Gallinas | Chichime | Porvenir | 1056
|  |  | 9°37.0’N, 78°53.0’W | 9°33.5’N, 78°56.0’W |

When the trade winds blow at their strongest, this can be a rough passage, confirmed by the fact that some sailors have described this passage across the Caribbean Sea as one of the most uncomfortable they have ever experienced. This is usually the case in winter, at the height of the trade wind season, when the constant easterly winds pile up the water in the western part of the Caribbean making sea conditions very uncomfortable.

Although direct passages to Panama cross an area that is rarely affected by hurricanes, this passage should not be done between July and October when the risk of tropical storms is highest. The best times are either in late November and December, when the trades are not yet blowing at full strength, or in April–May, when the strength of the winter trades starts to diminish. The best conditions can therefore be expected at either the beginning or the end of the winter season.

Boats sailing to Panama nonstop should keep at a safe distance from the Colombian coast to avoid the rougher seas that occur in the shallower areas. Whether stopping in Aruba, as many boats do, or sailing directly to Panama, the waypoint north of Punta Gallinas on Guajira Peninsula allows a track to be sailed just outside the 1000-metre line where less rough seas can be expected. From there, a direct course leads to a waypoint that clears Los Farallones, a dangerous group of rocks marked by a light. From that point the route has a clear run to the Panama Canal entrance. The landfall is approximately 3 miles north of the entrance into the port of Cristobal. Traffic Control should be contacted on channel 12, although small boats may enter if they proceed carefully. Traffic lights control the entrance through the breakwaters and small boats are advised to keep as close as possible to the sides.

When planning this passage across the Caribbean Sea it is well worth considering a stop in either the ABC Islands or Colombia, which are situated outside the hurricane belt. See AN72.

An interesting stop on this route is the San Blas Islands, which belong to Panama (AN73D). The small archipelago is home to the Kuna (Guna) community who have kept their traditional way of life. The landfall waypoint has been set north of Cayos Chichime at the entrance into the San Blas Channel leading to Porvenir. Entry formalities are completed at the small airport. Arrival should be timed for daylight hours, preferably morning, as these are dangerous waters to navigate in bad visibility and the precarious anchorage at Porvenir is surrounded by reefs. Formalities for boats arriving directly from a foreign port are complicated because of the need to have a cruising permit, which cannot be obtained at Porvenir.

The onward route to the Panama Canal runs parallel to the mainland coast. The course should stay well offshore as there are a number of dangers close to the coast, among them Los Farallones, a group of rocks off Cacique Point. On arrival in the port of Cristobal boats waiting to transit the canal should proceed to Shelter Bay Marina, for which advance booking is advisable. See here for detailed instructions concerning entry and transit procedure.

• AN74 Lesser Antilles to Greater Antilles

BEST TIME: | December to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to Puerto Rico, Cuba Cruising Guide, Northwest Caribbean. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN74A |  |  |  |  |
English Harbour | Antigua S | Antigua SW |  |  |
17°00.2’N, 61°45.8’W | 16°59.7’N, 61°46.0’W | 17°00.0’N, 61°55.0’W |  |  |
|  | Nevis |  |  |
|  | 17°03.0’N, 62°36.0’W |  |  |
|  | Saona | Magdalena | Zarpar | 459
|  | 18°00.0’N, 68°45.0’W | 18°22.0’N, 69°30.0’W | 18°25.5’N, 69°37.0’W |
Route AN74B |  |  |  |  |
English Harbour | Antigua S | Antigua SW |  |  |
|  | Nevis |  |  |
|  | Alta Vela |  |  |
|  | 17°27.0’N, 71°38.0’W |  |  |
|  | Kingston SE | Kingston S | Kingston | 863
|  | 17°50.0’N, 76°38.0’W | 17°55.0’N, 76°47.0’W | 17°56.0’N, 76°51.0’W |
Route AN74C |  |  |  |  |
English Harbour | Antigua S | Antigua SW |  |  |
|  | Nevis |  |  |
|  | Alta Vela |  |  |
|  | Northeast | Port Antonio N | Port Antonio | 843
|  | 18°14.0’N, 76°16.0’W | 18°11.3’N, 76°26.8’W | 18°11.5’N, 76°26.5’W |
|  | Jamaica NE |  |  |
|  | 18°28.0’N, 76°53.0’W |  |  |
|  | Jamaica N | Montego | Montego Bay | 928
|  | 18°33.0’N, 77°56.0’W | 18°29.0’N, 77°57.0’W | 18°28.2’N, 77°55.6’W |
Route AN74D |  |  |  |  |
English Harbour | Antigua S | Antigua SW |  |  |
|  | Nevis |  |  |
|  | Alta Vela |  |  |
|  | Vache SW | Vache NW | Port Morgan | 696
|  | 18°02.0’N, 73°42.0’W | 18°07.0’N, 73°43.0’W | 18°06.5’N, 73°41.8’W |
Route AN74E |  |  |  |  |
English Harbour | Antigua S | Antigua SW |  |  |
|  | Nevis |  |  |
|  | Alta Vela |  |  |
|  | Gravois |  |  |
|  | 17°57.2’N, 73°53.0’W |  |  |
|  | Tiburon | Morillo | Santiago de Cuba | 864
|  | 18°20.0’N, 74°35.0’W | 19°57.0’N, 75°52.0’W | 19 °58.0’N, 75°52.5’W |
Route AN74F |  |  |  |  |
English Harbour | Antigua S | Antigua SW |  |  |
|  | Nevis |  |  |
|  | Rojo |  |  |
|  | 17°45.0’N, 67°12.0’W |  |  |
|  | Mona SE |  |  |
|  | 17°59.0’N, 67°36.0’W |  |  |
|  | Engano | Samaná E | Samaná | 467
|  | 18°40.0’N, 68°10.0’W | 19°07.5’N, 68°58.0’W | 19°11.0’N, 69°21.0’W |
|  | Cabron |  |  |
|  | 19°24.0’N, 69°10.0’W |  |  |
|  | Frances |  |  |
|  | 19°45.0’N, 69°53.0’W |  |  |
|  | Patilla | Luperón N | Luperón | 572
|  | 19°56.0’N, 70°50.0’W | 19°55.2’N, 70°56.5’W | 19 °55.0’N, 70°56.0’W |
|  | Isabela |  |  |
|  | 19°57.0’N, 71°0.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cuba NE |  |  |
|  | 20°40.0’N, 74°0.0’W |  |  |
|  | Old S |  |  |
|  | 22°10.5’N, 77°27.5’W |  |  |
|  | Old N |  |  |
|  | 22°51.0’N, 78°45.5’W |  |  |
|  | Nicholas | Varadero N | Varadero | 1184
|  | 23°25.0’N, 80°28.0’W | 23°17.0’N, 81°15.0’W | 23 °10.0’N, 81 °14.0’W |
Route AN74G |  |  |  |  |
English Harbour | Antigua S | Antigua SW |  |  |
|  | Nevis |  |  |
|  | Rojo | Rico W | Mayaguez | 352
|  |  | 18°13.0’N, 67°12.0’W | 18.12.3° N, 67.09.5° W |

Not such popular cruising destinations as the Lesser Antilles, the large islands of Hispaniola, Puerto Rico, Cuba and Jamaica are mainly visited by yachts en route to other places. From islands south of St Martin, direct offshore routes lead to the south coasts of all the Greater Antilles. Ports on the north coasts of all these islands can be reached in easy stages if setting off from the Northern Virgin Islands.

While experiencing the typical Caribbean weather pattern of winters dominated by the NE trades, occasionally punctuated by northers, and summers threatened by hurricanes, local weather conditions can be affected considerably by the height and landmass of these large islands. Normally the winds along the coasts moderate at night as cooled air flows off the hills and out to sea. This land breeze can be quite strong off all the islands at night, thus counteracting the trade winds and ensuring calm conditions. In winter the prevailing NE trades can become more easterly along the northern coasts. During this period the islands are affected by northers, which bring strong N or more often NW winds and cold temperatures to the north and west coasts of the islands. These winds come without much warning and often out of a clear sky. In summer the trade winds have a more SE component and tend to be much lighter, with sea and land breezes being prominent. Thundery squalls are common over the whole area, especially in the late afternoon close to land. Some of the most violent squalls in the Caribbean, short but sharp with lightning and heavy rain, occur off the south coast of Cuba. Because the high islands block the passage of N winds, line squalls are more associated with the north coasts of Hispaniola and Cuba. Jamaica is more sheltered than the other islands and has fewer seasonal changes, the winds being generally lighter and more variable. The Greater Antilles are in the middle of the hurricane belt and hurricanes accelerating over the Caribbean Sea frequently hit the shores of these islands on their curved path northward.

Route AN74A can originate in any of the Lesser Antilles, a start in Antigua being given only as a hypothetical departure point. The initial course passes north of Redonda Rock to reach the open sea south of Nevis where a course should be set for Saona Island, at the SE point of Hispaniola. From there, the route continues to Punta Magdalena at the entrance into Bahia de Andrés. As docking facilities in the capital Santo Domingo are inadequate, cruising boats normally either anchor at Boca Chica, a resort east of the capital, or use the services of Marina Zarpar, 12 miles from the capital. This is a full-service marina, where entry formalities can be completed.

Those who do not plan to stop in the Dominican Republic should set a direct course for the small island of Alta Vela, at the southern extremity of Hispaniola. From there, boats bound for the Jamaican capital Kingston (AN74B) can sail a direct course to make landfall in the approaches to Kingston. Alternatively, those bound for ports on the north coast of Jamaica (AN74C) should steer for Northeast Point, and then make for their port of destination.

Those intending to stop in Haiti could not do better than head for Port Morgan Marina on Île à Vache (Cow Island), which lies close to this westbound route. From Alta Vela, a course should be set to make landfall SW of Cow Island. The route continues north to Pointe Ouest (West Point), where it turns SE into Baie à Ferret. The marina is located in a perfectly sheltered cove in the SE extremity of this bay, reputed to have been the infamous Henry Morgan’s hideaway, hence the name of the marina. If a change in wind direction is expected it is safer to stay at anchor in the outer bay where there is more space.

Boats bound for the south coast of Cuba (AN74E) should set a course from Alta Vela to Cape Gravois, the southern extremity of Haiti and thence to Cape Tiburon. From that waypoint there is a clear run to Punta Morillo, at the entrance into the deep bay at the head of which is situated Santiago de Cuba. This is the nearest Cuban port of entry along this route and, as all foreign yachts must clear in at an approved international marina, the small Marina Punta Gorda, on the west side of the bay, is a convenient place to deal with entry formalities for Cuba.

Route AN74F is aimed at those interested in exploring the north coasts of the Dominican Republic, Haiti or Cuba. From Nevis, a direct route leads to a recommended waypoint set 10 miles south of Cabo Rojo, the SW extremity of Puerto Rico. Boats sailing from other islands in the Eastern Caribbean can also set their course for this waypoint. The route through Mona Passage passes east of Mona Island to Cape Engano at the eastern extremity of Hispaniola.

From Engano, boats bound for Samaná should set a course to Punta Gorda at the entrance into the picturesque Bay of Samaná. Entry formalities into the Dominican Republic can be completed at Puerto Bahia Samaná, a marina with a good range of facilities. Otherwise, the route continues from Engano to Luperón, another port of entry on the north coast of the Dominican Republic. The port is located in a well-sheltered bay considered one of the best hurricane holes in the area. Three marinas operate there providing a full range of repair service facilities. From Luperón the route continues west through the Old Bahama Channel, along the north coast of Cuba. Those who wish to stop in Cuba should head for Varadero, which is the nearest official port where entry formalities can be completed. From Cuba the route continues west into the Gulf of Mexico or north to Florida.

Finally, those intending to visit the west coast of Puerto Rico (AN74G) are advised that the official port of entry is Mayaguez and not Boqueron. All boats, including those flying the US flag, are required to stop and complete formalities here.

• AN75 Lesser Antilles to Western Caribbean and Gulf of Mexico

BEST TIME: | December to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A1f Eastern Caribbean to Panama
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cuba Cruising Guide, Northwest Caribbean, Cruising Guide to Belize and Mexico’s Caribbean Coast.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN75A |  |  |  |  |
English Harbour | Antigua S | Antigua SW |  |  |
17°00.2’N, 61°45.8’W | 16°59.7’N, 61°46.0’W | 17°00.0’N, 61°55.0’W |  |  |
|  | Nevis |  |  |
|  | 17°03.0’N, 62°36.0’W |  |  |
|  | Pedro SW |  |  |
|  | 16°50.0’N, 78°17.0’W |  |  |
|  | Rosalind N |  |  |
|  | 16°55.0’N, 80°30.0’W |  |  |
|  | Swan S |  |  |
|  | 17°00.0’N, 83°55.0’W |  |  |
|  | Honduras N | Guanaja E | Bonacca | 1385
|  | 16°41.0’N, 85°11.0’W | 16°29.5’N, 85°46.0’W | 16°26.0’N, 85°51.0’W |
|  | Roatan NE | Roatan SE | Roatan | 1422
|  | 16°35.0’N, 85°56.0’W | 16°23.5’N, 86°05.0’W | 16°18.0’N, 86°29.0’W |
|  | Amatique | Dulce | Livingston | 1560
|  | 16°00.0’N, 88°38.0’W | 15°51.0’N, 88°44.0’W | 15°49.5’N, 88°44.5’W |
|  | Barrier SW | Gorda E | Punta Gorda | 1558
|  | 16°00.0’N, 88°19.0’W | 16°05.0’N, 88°42.0’W | 16°05.7’N, 88°47.8’W |
|  |  | East Snake | Placencia | 1594
|  |  | 16°12.5’N, 88°28.0’W | 16°31.0’N, 88°22.0’W |
Route AN75B |  |  |  |  |
English Harbour | Antigua S | Antigua SW |  |  |
|  | Nevis |  |  |
|  | Alta Vela |  |  |
|  | 17°27.0’N, 71°38.0’W |  |  |
|  | Northeast | Port Antonio N | Port Antonio |   845
|  | 18°14.0’N, 76°16.0’W | 18°11.3’N, 76°26.8’W | 18°11.5’N, 76°26.5’W |
|  | Jamaica NE |  |  |
|  | 18°28.0’N, 76°53.0’W |  |  |
` |  | Jamaica N | Montego | Montego Bay |   930
|  | 18°33.0’N, 77°56.0’W | 18°29.0’N, 77°57.0’W | 18°28.2’N, 77°55.6’W |
|  | Jamaica NW | Ambergris | San Pedro | 1507
|  | 18°28.5’N, 78°14.0’W | 17°57.5’N, 87°50.0’W | 17°56.0’N, 87°56.0’W |
|  |  | Mauger | Belize City | 1524
|  |  | 17°40.0’N, 87°46.0’W | 17°20.0’N, 88°02.5’W |
Route AN75C |  |  |  |  |
English Harbour | Antigua S | Antigua SW |  |  |
|  | Nevis |  |  |
|  | Alta Vela |  |  |
|  | Northeast | Port Antonio N | Port Antonio |   845
|  | Jamaica NE |  |  |
|  | Jamaica N |  |  |
|  | Jamaica NW | Montego | Montego Bay |   930
|  | Cayman NE | Cayman N | Georgetown |   1136
|  | 19°22.5’N, 81°05.0’W | 19°24.5’N, 81°19.0’W | 19 °23.3’N, 81°20.0’W |
|  | Cayman NW |  |  |
|  | 19°24.3’N, 81°26.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cozumel S | Cozumel W | Cozumel | 1482
|  | 20°10.0’N, 86°56.0’W | 20°23.5’N, 87°03.0’W | 20°30.0’N, 86 °58.5’W |
|  | Mujeres S | Mujeres W | Isla Mujeres | 1463
|  | 21°11.0’N, 86°42.0’W | 21°14.0’N, 86°45.7’W | 21°15.0’N, 86°45.5’W |
|  | Yucatan SE |  |  |
|  | 21°40.0’N, 85°08.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cuba NW | Key S | Key West | 1658
|  | 22°32.0’N, 84°58.0’W | 24°27.5’N, 81°48.1’W | 24°32.0’N, 81°48.4’W |
|  |  | Tampa SW | Tampa | 1775
|  |  | 27°35.5’N, 82°52.5’ | 27°54.0’N, 82°26.3’W |
Route AN75D |  |  |  |  |
English Harbour | Antigua S | Antigua SW |  |  |
|  | Nevis |  |  |
|  | Alta Vela |  |  |
|  | Gravois |  |  |
|  | 17°57.2’N, 73°53.0’W |  |  |
|  | Tiburon | Morillo | Santiago de Cuba |   867
|  | 18°20.0’N, 74°35.0’W | 19°57.0’N, 75°52.0’W | 19°58.0’N, 75°52.5’W |
|  | Cuba SW |  |  |
|  | 19°33.0’N, 78°00.0’W |  |  |
|  | Brac S |  |  |
|  | 19°30.0’N, 79°45.0’W |  |  |
|  | Yucatan N | Galveston SE | Galveston | 2094
|  | 21°46.0’N, 86°46.0’W | 29°06.0’N, 94°22.0’W | 29°20.3’N, 94°40.9’W |
Route AN75E |  |  |  |  |
English Harbour | Antigua SW | Nevis |  |  |
|  | Rojo |  |  |
|  | 17°45.0’N, 67°12.0’W |  |  |
|  | Mona SE |  |  |
|  | 17°59.0’N, 67°36.0’W |  |  |
|  | Engano | Samaná E | Samaná |  467
|  | 18°40.0’N, 68°10.0’W | 19°07.5’N, 68°58.0’W | 19°11.0’N, 69°21.0’W |
|  | Cabron |  |  |
|  | 19°24.0’N, 69°10.0’W |  |  |
|  | Frances |  |  |
|  | 19°45.0’N, 69°53.0’W |  |  |
|  | Patilla | Luperón N | Luperón |
|  | 19°56.0’N, 70°50.0’W | 19°55.2’N, 70°56.5’W | 19°55.0’N, 70°56.0’W |   580
|  | Isabela |  |  |
|  | 19°57.0’N, 71 °00.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cuba NE |  |  |
|  | 20°40.0’N, 74°00.0’W |  |  |
|  | Old S |  |  |
|  | 22°10.5’N, 77°27.5’W |  |  |
|  | Old N |  |  |
|  | 22°51.0’N, 78°45.5’W |  |  |
|  | Nicholas | Key S | Key West | 1239
|  | 23°25.0’N, 80°28.0’W | Galveston SE | Galveston | 1973

There are five alternative routes from the Lesser Antilles to destinations in the Western Caribbean. The most southerly route (AN75A) cuts across the length of the Caribbean Sea by staying south of both Hispaniola and Jamaica to reach the Bay of Honduras. Routes AN75B, AN75C and AN75D follow a similar initial track but pass north of Jamaica, whether bound for Northern Belize or destinations on the Yucatan Peninsula, reached either via the Cayman Islands or Cuba. Boats sailing along any of these routes have the choice of cruising the initial part in stages by calling at ports and marinas on the south coasts of the Dominican Republic, Haiti and Cuba, as described in detail in route AN74. Finally, the most northerly route AN75E reaches the Gulf of Mexico north of Hispaniola and Cuba.

The first route would appeal to those who wish to reach destinations in the Western Caribbean as quickly as possible as the passage can be sailed entirely offshore. The three intermediate routes provide the best cruising opportunities with many attractive stops along their entire length and may appeal to those bound for destinations in both Central America and the Gulf of Mexico. The northern route can be a mixture of both offshore sailing and shorter cruising stages, and is more suited to boats bound for South Florida and the Gulf of Mexico.

Route AN75A can start from any of the Lesser Antilles with Antigua only given as a hypothetical departure point as its good facilities make it a good place to prepare for a passage along any of those routes. The initial course passes north of Redonda Rock to reach the open sea south of Nevis. From there, a direct route crosses the Caribbean Sea to a waypoint set at a safe distance south of Pedro Bank, the first of many dangerous shallows and reefs that litter the offshore waters of Central America. This westbound route continues north of Rosalind Bank passing clear of several other banks to reach the Gulf of Honduras. Various cruising destinations are within easy reach from that point, whether in Honduras, Guatemala or Belize. It must be stressed that this entire area from the Honduran mainland to Northern Belize is encumbered with reefs and shoals, few of which are marked by beacons or lights, which calls for constant attention and accurate navigation.

The nearest port of entry into Honduras is Guanaja, one of the Bay Islands, where formalities are completed at Bonacca, a small cay south of Guanaja itself. Boats bound for Guanaja should set a course for the recommended landfall waypoint, which is set off the reef-fringed east coast of the island The arrival should be timed for daylight hours as good visibility is essential in these waters. The route continues in a SSW direction outside the fringing reef until the wide pass is reached in the approaches to Bonacca or Low Cay, where Guanaja’s main settlement is located. Entry formalities are completed at the port captain’s office in Bonacca, also known as Guanaja Town.

Those who prefer to sail directly to the larger island of Roatan should set a course for Roatan NE, and then follow the south coast of the island to Roatan Town, known locally as Coxen Hole. This is the main settlement and administrative centre, where formalities are completed in the commercial port. The alternative is to go directly to one of the marinas in the western part of the island and visit the authorities from there.

Guatemala’s main cruising attraction is Rio Dulce and those who wish to proceed nonstop should stay north of both Guanaja and Roatan and make landfall off Cabo Tres Puntas at the entrance into Amatique Bay. From there, a new course leads past the western end of Ox Tongue Shoal, which is marked by a light, to the landfall buoy marking the entrance into Rio Dulce. The river has a sand bar at the entrance with a maximum depth of 2.20 m (7.5 ft) at high tide. The entrance should not be negotiated at night as the navigation lights are reported to be unreliable. The port of entry is Livingston, on the north bank of the river, where it may be possible to come alongside the municipal dock. Officials will visit the boat to complete formalities before giving permission to proceed upstream.

Boats bound for Southern Belize, and not stopping at any of the Honduran islands, should set a course for the SW extremity of Belize’s Barrier Reef. The next waypoint marks the eastern end of a channel leading to Punta Gorda. This is the southernmost port of entry into Belize and a convenient place to complete formalities. Those who prefer to continue inside the Barrier Reef should turn north for the waypoint off East Snake Cay. This marks the southern end of the Inner Channel, a buoyed shipping fairway that leads to Belize City. The small town of Placencia, which is also an official port of entry, is passed on the way north.

Those bound for destinations in Northern Belize and Mexico (route AN75B) and sailing north of Jamaica have the choice of intermediate stops at Port Antonio or Montego Bay. Boats bound for Belize continue south of the Cayman Islands with several shoal areas being passed in the proximity of meridian 84º. Rough seas may be experienced in this area during periods of sustained trade winds. The recommended landfall is SE of Ambergris Cay. San Pedro Pass leads through Belize’s Barrier Reef to the town of the same name where entry formalities are completed. San Pedro Yacht Club assists visiting yachts and should be contacted on channel 16 for directions. Those who prefer to sail directly to Belize City should make landfall just north of Mauger Cay. The reef-strewn approaches to Belize City should be approached only in daylight and preferably before noon, so as to have the sun from behind. Eastern Channel is the main pass into Belize City. The port captain should be contacted on channel 16 for clearance procedures.

From Jamaica, boats bound for destinations in Southern Mexico (AN75C) can interrupt their voyage in Grand Cayman before resuming their voyage to either Cozumel or Isla de las Mujeres. The recommended landfall for the former is off Punta Celerain at the island’s SE extremity. The SW and W coasts should be followed to Puerto Cozumel. The port captain (capitania), who will give instructions regarding clearance procedures, should be contacted on channel 16. The landfall for Isla de las Mujeres is SE of the island’s Punta Sur, from where the west coast is followed to the main port where formalities are completed.

Boats sailing route AN75D bound for the south coast of Cuba should set a course from Alta Vela, at the southern extremity of Hispaniola, to pass south of Cape Gravois and thence to Cape Tiburon on the east side of the Windward Passage. From that point it is a clear run to Punta Morillo, at the entrance into the deep bay at the head of which is situated Santiago de Cuba. This is the nearest Cuban port of entry and, as all foreign yachts must clear in at an approved international marina, the small Marina Punta Gorda, on the west side of the bay, is a convenient place to deal with entry formalities for Cuba.The route continues south of Cuba to reach the Gulf of Mexico.

Boats sailing route AN75E should set an initial course for Cabo Rojo, the SW extremity of Puerto Rico. The route through the Mona Passage passes east of Mona Island to Cape Engano on Hispaniola. Those who wish to stop at Samaná should alter course for Punta Gorda, in the approaches to the picturesque Bay of Samaná. Entry formalities into the Dominican Republic can be completed at Puerto Bahia Samaná, a full-service marina. Those who wish to continue to Luperón should follow the NE coast of the Dominican Republic to Punta Patilla, in the approaches to the large Bay of Luperón. This attractive tourist resort is located in a well-sheltered bay considered as one of the best hurricane holes in the area.

From Luperón, the route continues parallel to the north coasts of the Dominican Republic, Haiti and Cuba to the Old Bahama Channel. A waypoint has been set at the narrowest part of the Old Bahama Channel between Lobos and Cruz Cays. Those who wish to stop in Cuba will need to call at Varadero, which is the nearest official port on this route where entry formalities into Cuba can be completed. From Cuba the route continues west into the Gulf of Mexico.

• AN76 Lesser Antilles to Bahamas and Florida

BEST TIME: | December to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A16a Voyages from the | Eastern Caribbean |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Southern Bahamas, | Northern Bahamas. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN76A |  |  |  |  |
English Harbour | Antigua S | Antigua SW |  |  |
17°00.2’N, 61°45.8’W | 16°59.7’N, 61°46.0’W | 17°00.0’N, 61°55.0’W |  |  |
|  | Nevis |  |  |
|  | 17°03.0’N, 62°36.0’W |  |  |
|  | Rojo |  |  |
|  | 17°45.0’N, 67°12.0’W |  |  |
|  | Mona SE |  |  |
|  | 17°59.0’N, 67°36.0’W |  |  |
|  | Engano |  |  |
|  | 18°40.0’N, 68°10.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cabron |  |  |
|  | 19°24.0’N, 69°10.0’W |  |  |
|  | Frances |  |  |
|  | 19°45.0’N, 69°53.0’W |  |  |
|  | Patilla | Inagua SW | Matthew | 738
|  | 19°56.0’N, 70°50.0’W | 20°54.0’N, 73°41.0’W | 20°56.0’N, 73°41.0’W |
|  |  | Mira |  |
|  |  | 22°05.0’N, 74°24.0’W |  |
|  |  | Crooked |  |
|  |  | 22°53.0’N, 74°34.0’W |  |
|  |  | San Salvador W | San Salvador | 943
|  |  | 24°03.0’N, 74°36.0’W | 24 °02.7’N, 74°33.0’W |
|  | Cuba NE |  |  |
|  | 20°40.0’N, 74°0.0’W |  |  |
|  | Old S |  |  |
|  | 22°10.5’N, 77°27.5’W |  |  |
|  | Old N |  |  |
|  | 22°51.0’N, 78°45.5’W |  |  |
|  | Santaren | Cut | Miami | 1238
|  | 24°08.0’N, 79°30.0’W | 25°46.0’N, 80°04.5’W | 25°45.8’N, 80 °07.9’W |
Route AN76B |  |  |  |  |
St Martin | Martin W | Virgins S |  |  |
18°05.0’N, 63°06.0’W | 18°06.0’N, 63°08.0’W | 18°13.0’N, 64°51.0’W |  |  |
|  | Virgin Passage |  |  |
|  | 18°17.5’N, 65°05.0’W |  |  |
|  | Virgins NW |  |  |
|  | 18°22.0’N, 65°13.5’W |  |  |
|  | Lavador |  |  |
|  | 18°25.0’N, 65°22.0’W |  |  |
|  | Rico NE | Morro | San Juan |   178
|  | 18°30.0’N, 65°40.0’W | 18°31.0’N, 66°06.0’W | 18°28.5’N, 66°08.0’W |
|  | Cabron |  |  |
|  | Frances |  |  |
|  | Patilla | Inagua SW | Matthew |   639
|  |  | Mira |  |
|  |  | Crooked |  |
|  |  | San Salvador W | San Salvador |   739
|  | Cuba NE |  |  |
|  | Old S |  |  |
|  | Old N |  |  |
|  | Santaren | Cut | Miami | 1244
Route AN76C |  |  |  |  |
English Harbour | Antigua S | Antigua SW |  |  |
|  | Saba NE |  |  |
|  | 17°45.0’N, 63°07.0’W |  |  |
|  | Necker |  |  |
|  | 18°32.5’N, 64°17.5’W |  |  |
|  | Virgins E |  |  |
|  | 18°34.0’N, 64°21.5’W |  |  |
|  | Turk NE | Turk NW | Grand Turk |   607
|  | 21°39.0’N, 70°54.0’W | 21°39.0’N, 70°54.0’W | 21°28’N, 71°06’W |
|  | Caicos N | Mayaguana SE | Mayaguana |   715
|  | 22°05.0’N, 71°58.0’W | 22°15’N, 72°46’W | 22 °23’N, 72 °57’W |
|  |  | San Salvador SW | San Salvador |   844
|  |  | 23°55.7’N, 74°35.0’W | 24 °02.7’N, 74°33.0’W |
|  | San Salvador NW |  |  |
|  | 24°11.5 ‘N, 74°34.5’W |  |  |
|  | Providence NE |  |  |
|  | 25°46.0’N, 76°38.0’W |  |  |
|  | Providence E | Rock | Sandy Point |   204
|  | 25°49.5’N, 77°15.0’W | 25°59.0’N, 77°25.5’W | 26°01.0’N, 77°24.0’W |
|  | Abaco NE | Man of War | Marsh Harbour |   214
|  | 26°35.0’N, 76°50.0’W | 26°38.1’N, 77°00.7’W | 26°32.4’N, 77°04.0’W |
Route AN76D |  |  |  |  |
St Martin | Martin W | Anguilla W |  |  |
|  | 18°9.5’N, 63°12.0’W |  |  |
|  | Anegada |  |  |
|  | 18°55.0’N, 64°22.0’W |  |  |
|  | San Salvador SE | San Salvador SW | San Salvador |   739
|  | 23°54.5’N, 74°28.0’W |  |  |
|  | San Salvador NW |  |  |
|  | Providence NE |  |  |
|  | Providence E |  |  |
|  | Providence NW | Everglades | Fort Lauderdale | 1083
|  | 26°13.0’N, 79°09.7’W | 26°05.5’N, 80°04.0’W | 26°05.6’N, 80 °06.5’W |
|  |  | Cut | Miami | 1091
Route AN76E |  |  |  |  |
St Martin | Martin W | Anguila W |  |  |
|  | West |  |  |
|  | 18°17.0’N, 63°18.0’W |  |  |
|  | Sombrero W |  |  |
|  | 18°36.0’N, 63°36.0’W |  |  |
|  | Abaco NE |  |  |
|  | Abaco N |  |  |
|  | 27°05.0’N, 77°30.0’W |  |  |
|  | Abaco NW | Comachee | St Augustine | 1281
|  | 27°31.0’N, 78°43.0’W | 29°55.0’N, 81°05.0’W | 29°55.0’N, 81°14.5’W |
|  |  | Mayport | Jacksonville | 1238
|  |  | 30°23.5’N, 81°17.0’W | 30°24.0’N, 81°21.5’W |

Sailors bound for the Bahamas or Florida from the Lesser Antilles have five alternative routes to choose from, each with its own attractions. Those who are setting off from islands south of Antigua and wish to reach their destination in the shortest time possible should sail route AN76A, which passes through the Mona Passage and continues north of Hispaniola to the Outer Bahamas or, via the Old Bahama Channel, to South Florida. Route AN76B may be of interest to those starting from further north as it originates in St Martin and stays north of Puerto Rico. Both routes AN76C and D stay mostly offshore to reach the Outer Bahamas and approach the Florida coast via the Providence Channels. Finally the offshore route AN76E may be of interest to those who want to make a fast passage to ports in Northern Florida.

In winter, all of these routes benefit from both favourable winds and current. Between December and April, at the height of the winter trades, fair, if strong, winds can be expected. Light winds and occasional calms can be expected at the change of seasons. Those who plan to sail any of these passages close to the end of the safe season, should bear in mind that there have been several hurricanes during May, most recently Arthur in mid-May and Bertha in late May 2020. Both have affected the Bahamas, Florida and some southern US states.

Those sailing route AN76A should set an offshore course for Cabo Rojo, the SW extremity of Puerto Rico. The route through the Mona Passage passes east of Mona Island to Cape Engano on Hispaniola. From there, the westbound route follows the contour of Hispaniola, to make landfall in the Southern Bahamas at Great Inagua, or continue through the Old Bahama Channel to Southern Florida.

Route AN76B takes its departure from Marigot Bay in St Martin and follows a track south of the Virgin Islands. From there, the route turns NW through the Virgin Passage keeping clear of the dangers surrounding Culebra Island. The route continues north of Puerto Rico to Punta Morro, in the approaches to San Juan. The route continues north of Hispaniola and south of Turks & Caicos. Several possible stops lie close to this route, such as San Juan, the capital of Puerto Rico, while for those who would like to visit the Dominican Republic, Samaná and Luperón would be convenient places to complete entry formalities (see also route AN75). The nearest Bahamian port of entry on this route is Matthew Town on Great Inagua Island, with a suggested landfall off the island’s southwest point. From there, the route turns north for the Outer Bahamas.

Alternatively, the route can continue to Florida through the Old Bahama Channel north of Cuba. A traffic separation zone operates in the Old Bahama Channel and by sailing close to the Bahama Bank it is possible to stay out of the NW-going lane as far as the Santaren Channel. This leads into the Straits of Florida and boats bound for Miami will make landfall off Fowey Rocks light, SE of the entrance into Miami Harbour. As one approaches the Florida coast the effects of the Gulf Stream will become increasingly pronounced, and this should be kept in mind if there is a threat of a norther. If this is the case it is better to stay close to the Great Bahama Bank, where the Gulf Stream is weaker, and, if necessary, seek shelter at one of the anchorages inside the bank. On arrival in Miami, Government Cut leads inland while the nearer marinas are at Miami Beach, close to the ocean entrance.

Route AN76C starts at Antigua’s SW point and follows a track that passes east of the islands of Nevis, St Kitts, St Eustatius and Saba. The route continues in a NNW direction to the entrance into Necker Island Passage passing east of Virgin Gorda to reach the open ocean at Virgin NE. At that point a course can be set to pass NE of Grand Turk. The route passes close to several banks such as Navidad, Silver and Mouchoir, and those interested in fishing should consider making the short detour as the relatively shallow waters will guarantee a rich catch. The passage can be interrupted at the Turks & Caicos Islands, with the most convenient place to clear in being Cockburn Town on Grand Turk.

From that point, a decision needs to be made whether to clear into the Bahamas at the nearest island, Mayaguana, or continue to San Salvador. In the former case, landfall will be made off Southeast Point from where the wide Horse Pond Bay is crossed to the main settlement at Abraham’s Bay. Formalities are completed at the administrator’s office. Those who prefer to continue to San Salvador should continue offshore and make landfall off Southwest Point. Known by its original inhabitants as Guanahani, this island is now accepted as the place where Columbus landed in 1492. The route follows the west coast of the island passing close to Landfall Point where a large white cross marks the spot where it is believed that Columbus and his crew first stepped ashore. The small Riding Rock marina, about one mile north of the capital Cockburn Town, is a good place to leave the boat while dealing with entry formalities. Both customs and immigration offices are at the airport.

From San Salvador, the route continues north to the NE Providence Channel, with a suggested landfall at Sandy Point on Great Abaco. Boats bound for Central Florida may continue west through the NW Providence Channel, while those bound for ports in North Florida should continue east of Abaco and thence to their destination.

Routes AN76D and AN76E depart from St Martin and follow an offshore track to reach their destinations in the Outer Bahamas or Florida, although as they pass relatively close to several islands, the passage may be interrupted at any of them.

Formalities for non-US visiting boats are very strict. All international arrivals (both foreign and US yachts) must file a Notice of Arrival (NOA) with the U.S. Coast Guard National Vessel Movement Center (NVMC), at least 96 hours prior to arrival. Email: sans@nvmc.uscg. gov. Tel.: +1-800-708-9823, + 1-304-264-2502.

• AN77 Lesser Antilles to North America

BEST TIME: | May to mid-June |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4013, US 13 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A16a Voyages from the | Eastern Caribbean |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Chesapeake Bay, Cruising to Newfoundland. | Guide to the New England | Coast, Cruising Guide | to Nova Scotia Coast, | Cruising Guide
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN77A |  |  |  |  |
St Martin | Martin W | Anguilla W |  |  |
18°05.0’N, 63°06.0’W | 18°06.0’N, 63°8.0’W | 18°09.5’N, 63°12.0’W |  |  |
|  | West |  |  |
|  | 18°17.0’N, 63°18.0’W |  |  |
|  | Sombrero E |  |  |
|  | 18°36.0’N, 63°20.0’W |  |  |
|  | [Bermuda E] | Terra | St John’s X | 1864
|  | 32°22.0’N, 64°38.0’W | 46°37.0’N, 52°23.0’W | 47°34.0’N, 52°40.0’W |
|  |  | Nova | Halifax X | 1604
|  |  | 44°06.0’N, 63°5.0’W | 44°38.0’N, 63°34.0’W |
|  |  | Newport S | Newport X | 1473
|  |  | 41°06.5’N, 71°22.0’W | 41°29.0’N, 71°20.0’W |
|  |  | New York SE | New York X | 1477
|  |  | 40°07.5’N, 73°21.0’W | 40°42.0’N, 74°0.0’W |
Route AN77B |  |  |  |  |
St Martin | Martin W | Anguilla W |  |  |
|  | West |  |  |
|  | Sombrero W |  |  |
|  | 18°36.0’N, 63°36.0’W |  |  |
|  | Chesapeake | Bay | Norfolk X | 1356
|  | 36°42.0’N, 74°48.0’W | 37°02.5’N, 76°04.0’W | 36°58.0’N, 76°22.0’W |
Lookout | Morehead City |  |  |  | 1233
34°33.7’N, 76°42.0’W | 34°40.7’N, 76 °40.8’W |
Charles | Charleston |  |  |  | 1259
32°36.7’N, 79°35.0’W | 32 °45.0’N, 79 °51.5’W |

The recommended time for this passage is at the end of the winter sailing season in the Caribbean. By this time the trade winds are predominantly easterly and provide favourable conditions at least as far north as 25°N. From there on, the direction of the winds becomes more variable and north of latitude 30°N winds from SW and S are more common than from any other direction. According to the latest pilot charts, during May and June, north of the latitude of Bermuda, there is a high percentage of SW winds so that the chances of a fast passage are reasonably good. The recommended strategy for this passage is to wait until there is no indication of a strong frontal system approaching the area south of 25°N within three to four days of departure. Continuing from 25°N, if a high-pressure ridge is located between 25°N and 30°N and a low-pressure system is not expected to move into that area in the next few days, the passage should continue towards the mainland. However, if the passage of a frontal system is forecast for that area, there is a high probability of gale force SW to NW winds, in which case it may be prudent to slow down until the front has passed. In its aftermath the winds will veer to NE, thus providing a short spell of favourable winds. If no major system is expected to move off the mainland, and there is a strong high-pressure cell in place, the rest of the passage should benefit from predominantly SE and SW winds. If there is a forecast of a system moving offshore and generating gale force winds from the northerly quarter, this will reach the Gulf Stream area in the next few days. In such a case one should be prepared for rough conditions. A possible alternative in such an eventuality is to divert to Bermuda and continue north from there.

Those who plan to sail any of these passages close to the end of the safe season, should bear in mind that there have been several hurricanes during May, most recently Arthur in mid-May and Bertha in late May 2020. Both have affected the Bahamas, Florida and some southern US states. Passages on any of these routes are not recommended after the end of June, and should be avoided during summer, because of the increased likelihood of hurricanes whose tracks may intersect such northbound routes. Passages from the Lesser Antilles to the mainland, either direct or via Bermuda, that are planned for the end of the hurricane season will benefit from a high frequency of S and SW winds, but the risk of a late hurricane will be considerable. Passages on any of these routes earlier in the year, between March and April, can be difficult. At such time, the chance of running into potential storms and associated frontal systems is quite high as in late spring such systems usually move off the coast every two to three days.

A good departure point for northbound passages is the island of St Martin due to its convenient location, wide range of facilities to prepare for the voyage and an international airport with direct flights to the USA.

The routes to destinations east of New York as far as Nova Scotia (route AN77A) pass so close to Bermuda that a stop there may be considered. A detour to Bermuda has no real attraction for boats on passages to ports between the Chesapeake Bay and Northern Florida (route AN77B) as they will be sailing on a more westerly track.

Northbound boats should take their departure from outside Marigot Bay on St Martin’s west coast. The initial course leads past Anguilla and West Cay to the Sombrero light. From that point a direct course can be set for the port of destination. Those intending to stop at Bermuda should consult route AN78.

On the northernmost route to Newfoundland, the landfall waypoint has been set off Cape Spear in the approaches to St John’s. A direct offshore route also leads to Nova Scotia, with landfall off Sambro light at the start of the channel leading into Halifax. Boats bound for Newport should make landfall SE of Block Island in the approaches to that historic port. The suggested landfall for boats approaching the busy port of New York from the south has been set at the buoy marking the westernmost shipping channel in the outer approaches to New York.

St Martin is also a convenient place to start a passage to more southerly destinations on the US east coat. Route AN77B leads west of Anguilla and leaves the Caribbean Sea through the Anegada Passage. The next waypoint, west of Sombrero Island, marks the point where the open ocean is reached and a direct course can be set for the port of destination. Boats bound for Chesapeake Bay have a clear run to the landfall buoy in the approaches to Chesapeake Bay. The landfall point for boats bound for Morehead City or Beaufort is located at the seaward end of the shipping channel. The recommended landfall for Charleston is set at the seaward end of the entrance channel. Destinations in Florida and South Carolina could be reached in easier stages by extending the routes described in AN76.

Formalities for non-US visiting boats are very strict. All international arrivals (both foreign and US yachts) must file a Notice of Arrival (NOA) with the U.S. Coast Guard National Vessel Movement Center (NVMC), at least 96 hours prior to arrival. Email: sans@nvmc.uscg. gov. Tel.: +1-800-708-9823, + 1-304-264-2502.

• AN78 Lesser Antilles to Bermuda

BEST TIME: | Mid-April to mid-May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 13 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A16a Voyages from the Eastern Caribbean |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Bermuda Discovered. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN78A |  |  |  |  |
English Harbour | Antigua S | Antigua SW |  |  |
17°00.2’N, 61°45.8’W | 16°59.7’N, 61°46.0’W | 17°00.0’N, 61°55.0’W |  |  |
|  | Saba NE |  |  |
|  | 17°45.0’N, 63°07.0’W |  |  |
|  | Sombrero W | Bermuda E | St George’s (Bermuda) |   974
|  | 18°36.0’N, 63°36.0’W | 32°22.0’N, 64°38.0’W | 32 °22.7’N, 64°39.8’W |
Route AN78B |  |  |  |  |
St Martin | Martin W | Anguilla W |  |  |
18°05.0’N, 63°06.0’W | 18°06.0’N, 63°08.0’W | 18°09.5’N, 63°12.0’W |  |  |
|  | West |  |  |
|  | 18°17.0’N, 63°18.0’W |  |  |
|  | Sombrero W | Bermuda E | St George’s (Bermuda) |   866
Route AN78C |  |  |  |  |
St George’s (Grenada) | Grenada W | Saba W |  |  |
12 °02.8’N, 61 °45.2’W | 12°02.0’N, 61°46.0’W | 17°37.0’N, 63°17.8’W |  |  |
|  | Sombrero W | Bermuda E | St George’s (Bermuda) | 1237

One of the favoured points of departure for this route is Antigua’s English Harbour, where boats take their leave from the Lesser Antilles and head either north for Bermuda as part of a return trip to North America, or NE on a nonstop passage to the Azores. This normally happens at the end of the winter season, when most boats that have been cruising the Eastern Caribbean congregate in or around English Harbour for the annual Antigua Sailing Week.

A major feature that influences weather conditions between the Eastern Caribbean and Bermuda in late spring, when the majority of northbound passages are undertaken along this route, is the high-pressure ridge which often lies along 25ºN or even further south. This high-pressure ridge is generated by storm systems tracking eastwards from the North American mainland. Being aware of its location, and its influence on the impending weather conditions, is an essential help in planning the forthcoming passage. The recommendations made in AN77 also apply to passages from the Lesser Antilles to Bermuda and should therefore be referred to.

The departure waypoint for boats leaving from any of the ports on Antigua’s south coast is at the SW extremity of the island. From there, a course can be set to pass east of Saba to reach the open ocean west of Sombrero Light. St Martin is another convenient place to prepare for the northbound passage.

Route AN78C outlines an offshore route that may appeal to those who are in a hurry to leave the Caribbean at the end of the safe season. From outside St George’s Harbour, this route stays west of all the Lesser Antilles as far as Saba Island where a waypoint has been set to avoid the shallows of the Saba Bank. Having reached Sombrero Light, a direct course leads to the start of the channel that leads into St George’s Harbour. The entrance is difficult to negotiate in the dark and those unfamiliar with it should avoid arriving at night.

Arriving boats must contact Bermuda Radio prior to arrival and give an ETA. The first contact should be attempted when 30 miles from the island. The station is on call 24 hours on 2182 kHz, 4125 kHz, and channels 16 and 27. St George’s is the port of entry and all entry formalities are completed at the facility on Ordnance Island. Docking facilities have improved with the opening of a new marina but this has considerably limited the space available for anchoring.

None of these routes are recommended after the middle of May because of the increased likelihood of hurricanes. Several hurricanes have affected this area during May, most recently Arthur in mid-May and Bertha in late May 2020. Passages along this route are definitely discouraged after June as the tracks of past hurricanes almost coincide with the direct course to Bermuda, passing north of the Virgin Islands and running between the US east coast and Bermuda. Tropical depressions are more frequent after early July, and even if they do not generate strong winds, the weather in their area can be very unsettled with heavy rain. If such a depression forms close to the north of the Lesser Antilles, contrary winds can be expected on the way to Bermuda.

• AN79 Lesser Antilles to Azores and mainland Europe

BEST TIME: | May to mid-June |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4011, US 12 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A11 Voyages from the Caribbean |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Islands. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN79A |  |  |  |  |
English Harbour | Antigua S | Antigua SE | Faial SE | Horta | 2175
17°00.2’N, 61°45.8’W | 16°59.7’N, 61°46.0’W | 16°59.5’N, 61°44.0’W | 38°30.5’N, 28°37.0’W | 38°32.1’N, 28°37.0’W |
|  | Antigua E | Flores SE | Lajes | 2089
|  | 17°04.0’N, 61°38.5’W | 39°21.8’N, 31°09.7’W | 39°22.8’N, 31°09.9’W |
Route AN79B |  |  |  |  |
English Harbour | Antigua S | Antigua SE |  |  |
|  | Antigua E |  |  |
|  | Azores W |  |  |
|  | 39°00.0’N, 30°00.0’W |  |  |
|  | Bishop | Lizard | Falmouth | 3378
|  | 49°48.0’N, 6°26.4’W | 49°55.0’N, 5°10.0’W | 50°08.0’N, 5°02.0’W |

For many years yacht captains were not prepared to challenge the accepted wisdom that a return voyage from the Caribbean to Europe should only be attempted along the classic route that passed through Bermuda on its way to the Azores. What started as a devil-may-care route used mostly by delivery crews and skippers of charter boats in a hurry to return to the Mediterranean at the end of the season in the Caribbean has now become the accepted practice among cruising boats as well, with most boats now sailing directly from the Eastern Caribbean to the Azores than via Bermuda. As the route via Bermuda is about 500 miles longer than the great circle route from Antigua to Horta, and one cannot even be sure of better winds, the direct route is to be favoured. The feasibility of a direct passage to the Azores appears to be proven by the findings of the latest satellite observations. The current pilot charts for May and June show a reasonable proportion of favourable winds. Weather conditions on this route are heavily influenced between March and May by a high-pressure ridge that often lies along 25ºN, or even further south, and is a result of depressions and associated frontal systems moving eastwards from the American mainland. Such systems will generate favourable SE to SW winds on passages to the Azores. In late spring and early summer, as the Azores/Bermuda High strengthens, NE winds will become more prevalent.

Boats on direct passages to the Azores or mainland Europe should initially favour an ENE course. Those on a direct passage to Gibraltar may do better by staying south of the Azores and using Madeira as a convenient stopover while waiting there for the right conditions, as the prevailing winds on the final leg to Gibraltar tend to be N or NE.

Anyone planning a nonstop passage from the Eastern Caribbean to Northern Europe, especially early in the season (route AN79B), should bear in mind two important factors: weather conditions on such a more northerly route can be quite rough; and the risk of encountering ice in higher latitudes can be a serious hazard. In the area of the Grand Banks, the most active period of the iceberg season (from March to May) is considered to present the most serious risk for shipping lanes crossing the North Atlantic. According to the International Ice Patrol, which monitors the situation year round, even as late as early June icebergs can migrate as far south as 39°N, which is the latitude of the Azores. Sailors proceeding on a northern route should be aware of this hazard when planning their passage. The ice situation is monitored by the US Coast Guard and the Canadian Ice Service, an initiative that was started after the sinking of the Titanic. Regular reports are posted on www.navcen.uscg.gov and http://ice-glaces.ec.gc.ca.

As the Azores lie close to the direct route to mainland Europe, making an intermediate stop at this convenient location should be considered, especially early in the season. See also route AN123.

On leaving Antigua, or any of the Lesser Antilles, depending on existing conditions, a NE, or ideally ENE, course should be sailed. This should be possible as by late May or early June E and SE winds are a dominant feature to about 25°N. Depending on the location of the Azores High, a high proportion of southerly winds can be expected even north of that latitude. At some point an area of light variable winds may be reached that separates the trade winds from the westerlies of higher latitudes. This is the time when a good reserve of fuel can make up for the lack of wind and this is the tactic preferred by most of those who take this route.

The optimum time for this passage is between May and middle of June. April may be too early since the probability of gales is still high. After July the frequency of hurricanes increases, making passages from the Caribbean a hazardous affair.

The most popular landfall in the Azores continues to be Horta, on the island of Faial, where there is a good but often overcrowded marina and entry formalities can be completed.

The small marina inside the commercial harbour at Lajes, on the westernmost island of Flores, offers the possibility of clearing into the Azores at a point from where it is easier to visit most other islands.

AN80 • Routes from the Virgin Islands

• | AN81 | Virgin Islands to Panama | 99
• | AN82 | Virgin Islands to Greater Antilles | 100
• | AN83 | Virgin Islands to Western Caribbean and Gulf of Mexico | 103
• | AN84 | Virgin Islands to Turks & Caicos | 105
• | AN85 | Virgin Islands to Bahamas and Florida | 106
• | AN86 | Virgin Islands to North America | 108
• | AN87 | Virgin Islands and Puerto Rico to Bermuda | 109
• | AN88 | Virgin Islands to Azores and mainland Europe | 110

Several routes fan out from the Virgin Islands with the main exodus occurring at the end of the winter season as sailors make their way home, either to the US and Canada or Europe. Because of their strategic position at the point where the Greater Antilles give way to their lesser sisters, the Virgins are also a favourite starting point for cruises in that area. Most North American boats bound for the Eastern Caribbean make their first landfall in the Virgins, from where they start making their way south through the chain of the Lesser Antilles. Some come back for their return passage home, while others continue on a clockwise circuit of the Caribbean. In contrast, most European boats arrive in the Virgins at the end of their Caribbean cruise and use the Virgins as a convenient springboard for the continuation of their voyage, whether to Bermuda or the Azores and home, or to the Bahamas, Florida and occasionally other destinations on the American mainland.

Made up of two separate entities, the eastern Virgins are a British overseas territory and the western group is under US administration. These attractive islands enjoy similar weather conditions to the Lesser Antilles and are a popular cruising ground both among long-distance voyagers and especially charter sailors. The prevailing winds tend to be easterly, the trade winds being north of east in winter and south of east in summer. The trades are stronger in winter months, around 20 knots, gusting occasionally to 30 knots. Northerly storms can affect the islands in winter, although not as frequently nor as strongly as in other areas, such as the Bahamas. The Virgin Islands lie in the hurricane area and they can be affected by tropical storms in most years.

AN80 Routes from the Virgin Islands

• AN81 Virgin Islands to Panama

BEST TIME: | April, December |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A1f Eastern Caribbean to Panama |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Panama Cruising Guide. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN81A |  |  |  |  |
Virgin Gorda | Virgin Gorda W | Peter W |  |  |
18°27.0’N, 64°26.2’W | 18°27.0’N, 64°26.7’W | 18°21.5’N, 64°37.0’W |  |  |
|  | Flanagan S |  |  |
|  | 18°18.5’N, 64°39.0’W |  |  |
Charlotte Amalie | Thomas SW | Virgins SW |  |  |
18°19.8’N, 64°55.7’W | 18°18.0’N, 64°56.0’W | 17°55.0’N, 65°15.0’W |  |  |
|  | Farallones | Cristobal N | Cristobal | 1056/1029
|  | 9°40.0’N, 79°38.5’W | 9°26.5’N, 79°54.5’W | 9°23.3’N, 79°55.1’W |
Route AN81B |  |  |  |  |
Virgin Gorda | Virgin Gorda W | Peter W |  |  |
|  | Flanagan S |  |  |
Charlotte Amalie | Thomas SW | Virgins SW | Chichime | Porvenir | 961/996
|  |  | 9°37.0’N, 78°53.0’W | 9°34.0’N, 78°57.0’W |

A downwind trip at all times, this passage diagonally across the Caribbean Sea is best sailed either immediately before the start of the hurricane season or soon after its end. If at all possible, the period between January and the middle of March, at the height of the winter trade winds, should be avoided, as strong winds and high seas are the rule in the Caribbean Sea at that time of year. Reference should be made to route AN73 as directions are similar.

Boats setting off from any of the islands in either the US or British Virgins should use Virgins SW as a departure point set halfway between the islands of St Croix and Vieques. A direct course can be set from there to Farallones, to clear this group of rocks just north of Punta Cacique in the approaches to the Panama Canal. The course should be altered there for the port of Cristobal, at the Caribbean end of the Panama Canal.

Arriving boats should contact Traffic Control on channel 12, although small boats may enter if they proceed carefully. Traffic lights control the entrance through the breakwaters and small boats are advised to keep as close as possible to the sides. Boats waiting to transit the canal should proceed to Shelter Bay Marina, for which advance booking is recommended. See here for detailed instructions concerning entry and transit procedure.

Two interesting places that are close to this route and are often visited by boats bound for the Panama Canal are the city of Santa Marta, in Colombia (details in route AN72), and the San Blas Islands, which belong to Panama. The small archipelago is home to the Guna (Kuna) community who have kept their traditional way of life. A direct course can be sailed to a waypoint north of Cayos Chichime at the entrance into the San Blas Channel leading to Porvenir. Entry formalities are completed at the small airport, but formalities for boats arriving directly from a foreign port are complicated because of the need to have a cruising permit, which cannot be obtained at Porvenir. The arrival time should be timed for daylight hours, preferably morning, as these are dangerous waters to navigate in bad visibility and the precarious anchorage at Porvenir is surrounded by reefs. The onward route to the Panama Canal runs parallel to the mainland coast.

• AN82 Virgin Islands to Greater Antilles

BEST TIME: | December to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cuba Cruising Guide, | Northwest Caribbean, Cruising Guide to Puerto Rico. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN82A |  |  |  |  |
Virgin Gorda | Virgin Gorda W | Peter W |  |  |
18°27.0’N, 64°26.2’W | 18°27.0’N, 64°26.7’W | 18°21.5’N, 64°37.0’W |  |  |
|  | Flanagan S |  |  |
|  | 18°18.5’N, 64°39.0’W |  |  |
Charlotte Amalie | Thomas SW | Virgins SW |  |  |
18°19.8’N, 64°55.7’W | 18°18.0’N, 64°56.0’W | 17°55.0’N, 65°15.0’W |  |  |
|  | Saona | Magdalena | Zarpar | 322/294
|  | 18°00.0’N, 68°45.0’W | 18°22.0’N, 69°30.0’W | 18°25.5’N, 69°37.0’W |
Route AN82B |  |  |  |  |
Virgin Gorda | Virgin Gorda W | Peter W |  |  |
|  | Flanagan S |  |  |
Charlotte Amalie | Thomas SW | Virgins SW |  |  |
|  | Alta Vela |  |  |
|  | 17°27.0’N, 71°38.0’W |  |  |
|  | Vache SW | Vache NW | Port Morgan | 552/525
|  | 18°02.0’N, 73°42.0’W | 18°07.0’N, 73°43.0’W | 18°06.5’N, 73°41.8’W |
|  | Gravois |  |  |
|  | 17°57.2’N, 73°53.0’W |  |  |
|  | Tiburon | Morillo | Santiago de Cuba | 717/689
|  | 18°20.0’N, 74°35.0’W | 19°57.0’N, 75°52.0’W | 19°58.0’N, 75°52.5’W |
Route AN82C |  |  |  |  |
Virgin Gorda | Virgin Gorda W | Peter W |  |  |
|  | Flanagan S |  |  |
Charlotte Amalie | Thomas SW | Virgins SW |  |  |
|  | Alta Vela |  |  |
|  | Northeast | Port Antonio N | Port Antonio | 703/675
|  | 18°14.0’N, 76°16.0’W | 18°11.5’N, 76°26.8’W | 18°11.3’N, 76°26.5’W |
|  | Jamaica NE |  |  |
|  | 18°28.0’N, 76°53.0’W |  |  |
|  | Jamaica N | Montego | Montego Bay | 796/768
|  | 18°33.0’N, 77°56.0’W | 18°29.0’N, 77°57.0’W | 18°28.2’N, 77°55.6’W |
Route AN82D |  |  |  |  |
Virgin Gorda | Virgin Gorda W | Peter W |  |  |
|  | Flanagan S |  |  |
Charlotte Amalie | Thomas SW | Virgins SW |  |  |
|  | Alta Vela |  |  |
|  | Kingston SE | Kingston S | Kingston | 721/693
|  | 17°50.0’N, 76°38.0’W | 17°55.0’N, 76°47.0’W | 17°56.0’N, 76°51.0’W |
Route AN82E |  |  |  |  |
Charlotte Amalie | Thomas SW | Porpoise |  |  |
|  | 18°18.3’N, 64°59’W |  |  |
|  | Virgins NW |  |  |
|  | 18°22.0’N, 65°13.5’W |  |  |
|  | Lavador |  |  |
|  | 18°25.0’N, 65°22.0’W |  |  |
|  | Rico NE | San Juan NE | San Juan |   73
|  | 18°30.0’N, 65°40.0’W | 18°31.0’N, 66°06.0’W | 18°28.5’N, 66°08.0’W |
|  | San Juan NW | Samaná E | Samaná |   275
|  | 18°30.0’N, 66°09.5’W | 19°07.5’N, 68°58.0’W | 19°11.0’N, 69°21.0’W |
|  | Cabron |  |  |
|  | 19°24.0’N, 69°10.0’W |  |  |
|  | Frances |  |  |
|  | 19°45.0’N, 69°53.0’W |  |  |
|  | Patilla | Luperón N | Luperón | 366
|  | 19°56.0’N, 70°50.0’W | 19°55.2’N, 70°56.5’W | 19°55.0’N, 70°56.0’W |
|  | Isabela |  |  |
|  | 19°57.0’N, 71°0.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cuba NE |  |  |
|  | 20°40.0’N, 74°0.0’W |  |  |
|  | Old S |  |  |
|  | 22°10.5’N, 77°27.5’W |  |  |
|  | Old N |  |  |
|  | 22°51.0’N, 78°45.5’W |  |  |
|  | Nicholas | Varadero N | Varadero | 991
|  | 23°25.0’N, 80°28.0’W | 23°17.0’N, 81°15.0’W | 23°10.0’N, 81 °14.0’W |

The main decision that needs to be made by those who plan to visit the islands of the Greater Antilles is whether to visit their south coasts, by sailing a track that stays south of them, or focus on their north coasts. Boats setting off from any of the islands in either the US or British Virgins on route AN82A should use as a departure point Virgins SW set halfway between the islands of St Croix and Vieques. From there, boats planning to visit the south coast of the Dominican Republic should set a course for Saona Island, at the SE point of Hispaniola, and then alter course for Punta Magdalena at the entrance into Bahia de Andrés. As docking facilities in the capital Santo Domingo are inadequate, cruising boats normally either anchor at Boca Chica, a resort east of the capital, or use the services of Marina Zarpar, 12 miles east of the capital. This is a full-service marina, where entry formalities can be completed.

Those who wish to continue without stopping in the Dominican Republic should set an initial course for the small island of Alta Vela, at the southern extremity of Hispaniola (AN82B). Those who wish to interrupt their voyage on the south coast of Haiti can do so at Port Morgan, on Île à Vache (Cow Island), which lies close to this route. In that case, a course should be set for a waypoint SW of Cow Island from where the route turns north to Pointe Ouest (West Point) and enters the Baie à Ferret. Marina Port Morgan is located in a sheltered cove in the SE part of the bay, reputed to have been the base of operations of pirate Henry Morgan.

Boats bound for the south coast of Cuba should continue for Cape Gravois, the southern extremity of Haiti, and thence to Cape Tiburon on the east side of the Windward Passage. From that waypoint there is a clear run to Punta Morillo, at the entrance into the deep bay at the head of which is situated Santiago de Cuba. This is the nearest Cuban port of entry and, as all foreign yachts must clear in at an approved international marina, the small Marina Punta Gorda, on the west side of the bay, is a convenient place to deal with entry formalities for Cuba.

Boats bound for ports on the north coast of Jamaica (AN82C) should steer for Northeast Point, and then make for their port of destination. Montego Bay, at the western extremity of the island, is the home of the Montego Bay Yacht Club and has a small marina with the best facilities in the area. Those who prefer to make their landfall in Southern Jamaica, and intending to call at the capital Kingston (AN82D), should set a course from Alta Vela to Cow Bay Point, in the approaches to Kingston. Finally, those who prefer to call at ports on the north coast of Puerto Rico before continuing to Hispaniola (AN82E) have the choice of stopping at San Juan. Arriving boats must contact customs by phone on +1-877-529-6840 or +1-787-729-6840 and will be given instructions on what to do next to complete entry formalities.

The westbound route may be interrupted at several attractive locations such as the picturesque Bay of Samaná. Entry formalities into the Dominican Republic can be completed at Puerto Bahia Samaná, a full-service marina. Also close to this route lies Luperón, an attractive tourist resort located in a well-sheltered bay considered as one of the best hurricane holes in the area. Three marinas now operate there providing a full range of repair and service facilities.

From this point onward westbound boats have a choice of three alternatives: sail a NW route towards the Southern Bahamas and the north coast of Cuba, sail an intermediate route towards the Windward Passage, which avoids Haitian waters by passing north of Tortuga Island or take a route that runs along the north coast of Haiti. The only port of entry on that coast is Cap Haïtien, a busy commercial harbour of little interest to cruising yachts. Just west of Cap Haïtien is the attractive Acul Bay and the most sheltered anchorage on Haiti’s north coast.

Boats bound for the north coast of Cuba will need to sail through the Old Bahama Channel to Varadero, which is the nearest official port where entry formalities into Cuba can be completed. The route passes close to the small port of Baracoa, at the eastern extremity of Cuba, but stopping there is not possible as, at the time of writing, this is not an official port of entry. The alternative is to sail to Santiago de Cuba, on the island’s south coast. The north coast of Cuba, with its multitude of cruising attractions, brings to an end this whistle-stop tour of the Greater Antilles.

• AN83 Virgin Islands to Western Caribbean and Gulf of Mexico

BEST TIME: | December to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to Belize and Mexico’s Caribbean Coast, Northwest Caribbean, Exploring Central America Part 1.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN83A |  |  |  |  |
Virgin Gorda | Virgin Gorda W | Peter W |  |  |
18°27.0’N, 64°26.2’W | 18°27.0’N, 64°26.7’W | 18°21.5’N, 64°37.0’W |  |  |
|  | Flanagan S |  |  |
|  | 18°18.5’N, 64°39.0’W |  |  |
Charlotte Amalie | Thomas SW | Virgins SW |  |  |
18°19.8’N, 64°55.7’W | 18°18.0’N, 64°56.0’W | 17°55.0’N, 65°15.0’W |  |  |
|  | Pedro SW |  |  |
|  | 16°50.0’N, 78°17.0’W |  |  |
|  | Rosalind N |  |  |
|  | 16°55.0’N, 80°30.0’W |  |  |
|  | Swan S |  |  |
|  | 17°00.0’N, 83°55.0’W |  |  |
|  | Honduras N | Guanaja | Bonacca | 1245/1221
|  | 16°41.0’N, 85°11.0’W | 16°29.5’N, 85°46.0’W | 16°26.0’N, 85°51.0’W |
|  | Roatan NE | Roatan SE | Roatan | 1286/1258
|  | 16°35.0’N, 85°56.0’W | 16°23.5’N, 86°05.0’W | 16°18.0’N, 86°29.0’W |
|  | Amatique | Dulce | Livingston | 1420/1400
|  | 16°00.0’N, 88°38.0’W | 15°51.0’N, 88°44.0’W | 15°49.5’N, 88°44.5’W |
|  | Barrier SW | Gorda E | Punta Gorda | 1418/1398
|  | 16°00.0’N, 88°19.0’W | 16°05.0’N, 88°42.0’W | 16 °05.7’N, 88°47.8’W |
|  |  | East Snake 16°12.5’N, 88°28.0’W | Placencia 16°31.0’N, 88°22.0’W | 1444/1434
Route AN83B |  |  |  |  |
Virgin Gorda | Virgin Gorda W | Peter W |  |  |
|  | Flanagan S |  |  |
Charlotte Amalie | Thomas SW | Virgins SW |  |  |
|  | Alta Vela |  |  |
|  | 17°27.0’N, 71°38.0’W |  |  |
|  | Northeast | Port Antonio N | Port Antonio | 703/675
|  | 18°14.0’N, 76°16.0’W | 18°11.5’N, 76°26.8’W | 18°11.3’N, 76°26.5’W |
|  | Jamaica NE |  |  |
|  | 18°28.0’N, 76°53.0’W |  |  |
|  | Jamaica N | Montego | Montego Bay | 796/768
|  | 18°33.0’N, 77°56.0’W | 18°29.0’N, 77°57.0’W | 18°28.2’N, 77°55.6’W |
|  | Jamaica NW | Ambergris | San Pedro | 1364/1336
|  | 18°28.5’N, 78°14.0’W | 17°57.5’N, 87°50.0’W | 17°56.0’N, 87°56.0’W |
|  |  | Mauger | Belize City | 1382/1354
|  |  | 17°40.0’N, 87°46.0’W | 17°20.0’N, 88°02.5’W |
Route AN83C |  |  |  |  |
Virgin Gorda | Virgin Gorda W | Peter W |  |  |
|  | Flanagan S |  |  |
Charlotte Amalie | Thomas SW | Virgins SW |  |  |
|  | Alta Vela |  |  |
|  | Northeast | Port Antonio N | Port Antonio | 703/675
|  | Jamaica NE |  |  |
|  | Jamaica N | Montego | Montego Bay | 796/768
|  | Jamaica NW |  |  |
|  | Cayman NE | Cayman N | Georgetown | 993/965
|  | 19°22.5’N, 81°05.0’W | 19°24.5’N, 81°19.0’W | 19°23.3’N, 81°20.0’W |
|  | Yucatan SE |  |  |
|  | 21°40.0’N, 85°08.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cuba NW | Key S | Key West | 1515/1477
|  | 22°32.0’N, 84°58.0’W | 24°27.5’N, 81°48.1’W | 24 °32.0’N, 81 °48.4’W |
|  |  | Tampa SW | Tampa | 1294/1261
|  |  | 27°35.5’N, 82°52.5’W | 27°54.0’N, 82 °26.3’W |
|  | Brac S |  |  |
|  | 19°30.0’N, 79°45.0’W |  |  |
|  | Jamaica NW |  |  |
|  | Cozumel S | Cozumel W | Cozumel | 1340/1312
|  | 20°10.0’N, 86°56.0’W | 20°23.5’N, 87°03.0’W | 20°30.0’N, 86°58.5’W |
|  | Mujeres S | Mujeres W | Isla Mujeres | 1321/1293
|  | 21°11.0’N, 86°42.0’W | 21°14.0’N, 86°45.7’W | 21°15.0’N, 86°45.5’W |
|  | Brac S |  |  |
|  | Yucatan N | Galveston SE | Galveston | 1955/1927
|  | 21°46.0’N, 86°46.0’W | 29°06.0’N, 94°22.0’W | 29°20.3’N, 94°40.9’W |
Route AN83D |  |  |  |  |
Virgin Gorda | Virgin Gorda W | Peter W |  |  |
|  | Flanagan S |  |  |
Charlotte Amalie | Thomas SW | Virgins SW |  |  |
|  | Alta Vela |  |  |
|  | Gravois |  |  |
|  | 17°57.2’N, 73°53.0’W |  |  |
|  | Tiburon | Morillo | Santiago de Cuba | 722/696
|  | 18°20.0’N, 74°35.0’W | 19°57.0’N, 75°52.0’W | 19 °58.0’N, 75°52.5’W |
|  | Cuba SW |  |  |
|  | 19°33.0’N, 78°00.0’W |  |  |
|  | Brac N |  |  |
|  | 19°57.0’N, 79°41.0’W |  |  |
|  | Yucatan SE |  |  |
|  | Cuba NW | Key S | Key West | 1067/1039
|  |  | Tampa SW | Tampa | 1294/1261
|  | Cuba SW |  |  |
|  | Brac S |  |  |
|  | Yucatan N | Galveston SE | Galveston | 1803/1771
Route AN83E |  |  |  |  |
Charlotte Amalie | Thomas SW | Porpoise |  |  |
|  | 18°18.3’N, 64°59’W |  |  |
|  | Virgins NW |  |  |
|  | 18°22.0’N, 65°13.5’W |  |  |
|  | Lavador |  |  |
|  | 18°25.0’N, 65°22.0’W |  |  |
|  | Rico NE | San Juan NE | San Juan | 73
|  | 18°30.0’N, 65°40.0’W | 18°31.0’N, 66°06.0’W | 18°28.5’N, 66°08.0’W |
|  | San Juan NW | Samaná E | Samaná | 261
|  | 18°30.0’N, 66°09.5’W | 19°07.5’N, 68°58.0’W | 19 °11.0’N, 69 °21.0’W |
|  | Cabron |  |  |
|  | 19°24.0’N, 69°10.0’W |  |  |
|  | Frances |  |  |
|  | 19°45.0’N, 69°53.0’W |  |  |
|  | Patilla | Luperón N | Luperón | 366
|  | 19°56.0’N, 70°50.0’W | 19°55.2’N, 70°56.5’W | 19°55.0’N, 70°56.0’W |
|  | Isabela |  |  |
|  | 19°57.0’N, 71°0.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cuba NE |  |  |
|  | 20°40.0’N, 74°0.0’W |  |  |
|  | Old S |  |  |
|  | 22°10.5’N, 77°27.5’W |  |  |
|  | Old N |  |  |
|  | 22°51.0’N, 78°45.5’W |  |  |
|  | Nicholas | Key S | Key West | 1039
|  | 23°25.0’N, 80°28.0’W | Tampa SW | Tampa | 1285
|  |  | Galveston SE | Galveston | 1794

Boats bound for the western part of the Caribbean and the Gulf of Mexico have a choice of two basic routes to reach their distant destinations: an offshore route that stays south of the Greater Antilles and which, being more direct, should be the choice of those planning to visit such countries as Honduras, Guatemala or Belize, and one that stays north of the Greater Antilles, which may be more attractive to those sailing to ports in the Gulf of Mexico. There are variations of both these routes by making shorter or longer detours. There is also the choice of reaching destinations in the Gulf of Mexico by sailing south of Cuba.

Route AN83A stays mostly offshore by following the shortest track to the Western Caribbean by sailing south of Jamaica to reach the Bay of Honduras. For more detailed information on destinations in the Gulf of Honduras refer to AN75A (here).

Boats bound for destinations in the Gulf of Mexico should pass north of Jamaica, with Montego Bay, at the western end of the island, being a convenient place to stop if necessary. The Cayman Islands are also close to the route to the Yucatan Channel and would make another possible stop (see routes AN75B, C and D).

Route AN83E runs along Puerto Rico and Hispaniola’s north coasts, with several interesting places along the way, San Juan among them. Those who wish to visit Samaná should make landfall off Punta Gorda, in the approaches to the picturesque Bay of Samaná. Entry formalities into the Dominican Republic can be completed at Puerto Bahia Samaná, a full-service marina. Those who wish to sail directly to Luperón can sail a direct course from San Juan to Cabo Cabron and continue to Punta Patilla, in the approaches to the large Bay of Luperón. This attractive tourist resort is located in a well-sheltered bay considered as one of the best hurricane holes in the area. Three marinas now operate there providing a good range of repair service facilities. From this point the route continues west through the Old Bahama Channel, north of Cuba. Those who wish to stop there should head for Varadero, which is the nearest official port where entry formalities into Cuba can be completed. From Cuba the route continues west into the Gulf of Mexico.

• AN84 Virgin Islands to Turks & Caicos

BEST TIME: | December to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Northern Bahamas, Southern Bahamas, Turks and Caicos Guide. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN84A |  |  |  |  |
Charlotte Amalie | Thomas SW | Porpoise |  |  |
18°19.8’N, 64°55.7’W | 18°18.0’N, 64°56.0’W | 18°18.3’N, 64°59’W |  |  |
|  | Virgins NW |  |  |
|  | 18°22.0’N, 65°13.5’W |  |  |
|  | Turk NE | Turk N | Grand Turk | 408
|  | 21°32.5’N, 70°57.7’W | 21°32.5’N, 71°4.7’W | 21°27.5’N, 71°9.3’W |
Route AN84B |  |  |  |  |
Virgin Gorda | Virgin Gorda W | Virgins NE |  |  |
18°27.0’N, 64°26.2’W | 18°27.0’N, 64°26.7’W | 18°30.0’N, 64°30.7’W |  |  |
|  | Turk NE | Turk N | Grand Turk | 441

Both these offshore routes leave all banks (Navidad, Silver and Mouchoir) to port and keep well clear of any dangers. The best time is at the change of seasons, but even at the height of the winter trades, the only inconvenience is the occasional strong wind.

Having reached Turk NE, the course is altered there to enter Turks Passage and make for Cockburn Town, the main settlement and port of entry on Grand Turk. Formalities are normally completed at South Dock, in the commercial harbour, about 2 miles south of town. Alternatively, one may prefer to cross over to Cockburn Harbour (not to be confused with Cockburn Town on Grand Turk) on South Caicos, which is also a port of entry.

• AN85 Virgin Islands to Bahamas and Florida

BEST TIME: | December to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A16a Voyages from the Eastern Caribbean |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Northern Bahamas, Southern Bahamas. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN85A |  |  |  |  |
Charlotte Amalie | Thomas SW | Porpoise |  |  |
18°19.8’N, 64°55.7’W | 18°18.0’N, 64°56.0’W | 18°18.3’N, 64°59’W |  |  |
|  | Virgins NW |  |  |
|  | 18°22.0’N, 65°13.5’W |  |  |
Virgin Gorda | Virgin Gorda W | Virgins NE |  |  |
18°27.0’N, 64°26.2’W | 18°27.0’N, 64°26.7’W | 18°30.0’N, 64°30.7’W |  |  |
|  | Turk NE |  |  |
|  | 21°32.5’N, 70°57.7’W |  |  |
|  | Caicos N | Mayaguana SE | Mayaguana | 517/534
|  | 22°05.0’N, 71°58.0’W | 22°15’N, 72°46’W | 22 °23’N, 72 °57’W |
|  | San Salvador SE | San Salvador SW | San Salvador | 646/662
|  | 23°54.5’N, 74°28.0’W | 23°55.7’N, 74°35.0’W | 24 °02.7’N, 74°33.0’W |
|  | San Salvador NW |  |  |
|  | 24°11.5 ‘N, 74°34.5’W |  |  |
|  | Providence NE | Abaco NE | Marsh Harbour | 857/875
|  | 25°46.0’N, 76°38.0’W | 26°35.0’N, 76°50.0’W | 26°32.4’N, 77°.04.0’W |
|  | Providence E | Rock | Sandy Point | 840/865
|  | 25°49.5’N, 77°15.0’W | 25°59.0’N, 77°25.5’W | 26°01.0’N, 77°24.0’W |
|  | Abaco NE |  |  |
|  | Abaco N |  |  |
|  | 27°05.0’N, 77°30.0’W |  |  |
|  | Abaco NW | Comachee | St Augustine | 1135/1145
|  | 27°31.0’N, 78°43.0’W | 29°55.0’N, 81°05.0’W | 29°55.0’N, 81°14.5’W |
|  |  | Mayport | Jacksonville | 1154/1165
|  |  | 30°23.5’N, 81°17.0’W | 30°24.0’N, 81 °21.5’W |
Route AN85B |  |  |  |  |
Charlotte Amalie | Thomas SW | Porpoise |  |  |
|  | Virgins NW |  |  |
|  | Lavador |  |  |
|  | 18°25.0’N, 65°22.0’W |  |  |
Virgin Gorda | Virgin Gorda W | Virgins NE |  |  |
|  | Rico NE | San Juan NE | San Juan | 73/105
|  | 18°30.0’N, 65°40.0’W | 18°31.0’N, 66°06.0’W | 18°28.5’N, 66°08.0’W |
|  | Cabron |  |  |
|  | 19°24.0’N, 69°10.0’W |  |  |
|  | Frances |  |  |
|  | 19°45.0’N, 69°53.0’W |  |  |
|  | Patilla | Inagua SW | Matthew | 545/560
|  | 19°56.0’N, 70°50.0’W | 20°54.0’N, 73°41.0’W | 20°56.0’N, 73°41.0’W |
|  |  | Mira |  |
|  |  | 22°05.0’N, 74°24.0’W |  |
|  |  | Crooked |  |
|  |  | 22°53.0’N, 74°34.0’W |  |
|  |  | San Salvador W | San Salvador | 737/753
|  |  | 24°03.0’N, 74°36.0’W |  |
|  | Cuba NE |  |  |
|  | 20°40.0’N, 74°0.0’W |  |  |
|  | Old S |  |  |
|  | 22°10.5’N, 77°27.5’W |  |  |
|  | Old N |  |  |
|  | 22°51.0’N, 78°45.5’W |  |  |
|  | Santaren | Cut | Miami | 1023/1036
|  | 24°08.0’N, 79°30.0’W | 25°46.0’N, 80°04.5’W | 25°45.8’N, 80°07.9’W |

To reach the Bahamas from the Virgin Islands one can sail either an offshore route that stays outside all islands (AN85A) or an inshore route along the north coasts of Puerto Rico and Hispaniola (AN85B). The offshore route passes close to several banks such as Navidad, Silver and Mouchoir, and those interested in fishing should consider making the short detour as the relatively shallow waters will guarantee a rich catch. The passage can be interrupted at the Turks & Caicos, with the most convenient place to clear in being Cockburn Town on Grand Turk.

For both routes the passages can start from either St Thomas or Virgin Gorda, the two routes merging at either Turk NE or Rico NE. On route AN85A, having reached waypoint Caicos N, a decision needs to be made whether to clear into the Bahamas at the nearest island, Mayaguana, or continue to San Salvador. In the former case, landfall will be made off Mayaguana’s Southeast Point from where Horse Pond Bay is crossed to the main settlement at Abraham’s Bay. The island is a port of entry and formalities are completed at the Administrator’s office. Those who prefer to continue to San Salvador should continue NW and make landfall south of the island. Known by its original inhabitants as Guanahani, this island is now accepted as the place where Columbus landed in 1492. The route follows the west coast of the island passing close to Landfall Point where a large white cross marks the spot where it is believed that Columbus and his crew first stepped ashore. The small Riding Rock marina, about one mile north of the capital Cockburn Town, is a good place to leave the boat while dealing with entry formalities. Both customs and immigration offices are at the airport.

The Exumas and islands in the Central Bahamas are within easy reach just west of San Salvador. Whether stopping at San Salvador or not, boats bound for the Abacos should continue on an offshore route that stays east of Cat and Eleuthera Islands to the entrance into the Northeast Providence Channel. The nearest port of entry is Sandy Point on Great Abaco Island. The entrance into the bay is encumbered by reefs and should only be attempted in good light.

Route AN85B can take its departure from either St Thomas or Virgin Gorda and follows a track that stays just north of the islands of Puerto Rico and Hispaniola, and south of the Turks & Caicos. Several possible stops lie close to this route, such as San Juan, the capital of Puerto Rico, while for those who would like to visit the Dominican Republic, Samaná and Luperón would be convenient places to complete entry formalities (see also AN75E and AN83). The nearest Bahamian port of entry on this southern route is Matthew Town on Great Inagua Island, with a suggested landfall off the island’s southwest point.

Boats bound for South Florida should continue from Patilla on a westerly track through the Old Bahama Channel. The alternative is to turn north at Great Inagua and cover the rest of the voyage in easy cruising stages. The northern route can be sailed to San Salvador and the mainland is reached via the Providence NW Passage. Boats bound for destinations in North Florida should sail an offshore route that passes east and north of the Abacos.

Both routes can be sailed at any time outside of the hurricane season. Between December and March, at the height of the winter trades, fair if strong winds can be expected. Lighter winds can be expected at the change of seasons, especially on the southern route where the winds may be blocked by the large islands.

Formalities for non-US visiting boats are very strict. All international arrivals (both foreign and US yachts) must file a Notice of Arrival (NOA) with the U.S. Coast Guard National Vessel Movement Center (NVMC), at least 96 hours prior to arrival. Email: sans@nvmc.uscg. gov. Tel.: +1-800-708-9823, + 1-304-264-2502.

• AN86 Virgin Islands to North America

BEST TIME: | Late April to mid-June (offshore), December to April (via Bahamas) |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4013, US 13 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A16a Voyages from the Eastern Caribbean
CRUISING GUIDES: | Chesapeake Bay, Cruising Guide to the New England Coast, Cruising Guide to the Nova Scotia Coast, Cruising Guide to Newfoundland
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN86A |  |  |  |  |
Charlotte Amalie | Thomas SW | Porpoise |  |  |
18°19.8’N, 64°55.7’W | 18°18.0’N, 64°56.0’W | 18°18.3’N, 64°59’W |  |  |
|  | Savana S |  |  |
|  | 18°19.5’N, 65°02.5’W |  |  |
|  | Savana N 18°22.0’N, 65°05.0’W |  |  |
|  | Virgins N |  |  |
|  | 18°26.0’N, 65°05.0’W |  |  |
|  | [Bermuda E] |  |  |
|  | 32°22.0’N, 64°38.0’W |  |  |
|  | Terra S | Spear | St John’s X | 1881
|  | 46°37.0’N, 52°23.0’W | 47°31.5’N, 52°34.2’W | 47°34.0’N, 52°40.0’W |
|  | Nova | Sambro | Halifax X | 1596
|  | 44°06.0’N, 63°5.0’W | 44°27.0’N, 63°26.5’W | 44°38.0’N, 63°34.0’W |
|  |  | Newport S | Newport X | 1436
|  |  | 41°06.5’N, 71°22.0’W | 41°29.0’N, 71°20.0’W |
|  |  | New York SE | New York X | 1439
|  |  | 40°07.5’N, 73°21.0’W | 40°42.0’N, 74°0.0’W |
Route AN86B |  |  |  |  |
Charlotte Amalie | Thomas SW | Porpoise |  |  |
|  | Savana S |  |  |
|  | Savana N |  |  |
|  | Virgins N |  |  |
|  | Chesapeake | Bay | Norfolk X | 1307
|  | 36°42.0’N, 74°48.0’W | 37°02.5’N, 76°04.0’W | 36°58.0’N, 76°22.0’W |
|  |  | Charles | Charleston | 1185
|  |  | 32°36.7’N, 79°35.0’W | 32 °45.0’N, 79 °51.5’W |
|  |  | Lookout | Morehead City | 1172
|  |  | 34°33.7’N, 76°42.0’W | 34°40.7’N, 76°40.8’W |
|  |  | Mayport | Jacksonville | 1154
|  |  | 30°23.5’N, 81°17.0’W | 30°24.0’N, 81 °21.5’W |
|  |  | Comachee | St Augustine | 1135
|  |  | 29°55.0’N, 81°05.0’W | 29°55.0’N, 81°14.5’W |
Route AN86C |  |  |  |  |
Virgin Gorda | Virgin Gorda W | Virgins NE |  |  |
18°27.0’N, 64°26.2’W | 18°27.0’N, 64°26.7’W | 18°30.0’N, 64°30.7’W |  |  |
|  | [Bermuda E] |  |  |
|  | Terra S | Spear | St John’s X | 1856
|  | Nova | Sambro | Halifax X | 1580
|  |  | Newport S | Newport X | 1429
|  |  | New York SE | New York X | 1432
Route AN86D |  |  |  |  |
Virgin Gorda | Virgin Gorda W | Virgins NE |  |  |
|  | Chesapeake | Bay | Norfolk X | 1308
|  |  | Charles | Charleston | 1192
|  |  | Lookout | Morehead City | 1174
|  |  | Mayport | Jacksonville | 1165

The end of the winter sailing season in the Eastern Caribbean is the time when most boats set off on this passage, which is also the time when reasonable sailing conditions can be expected for most of the way. The tactics for planning this passage are described in AN77.

With Bermuda being situated virtually due north of the Virgin Islands, many people prefer to break the voyage in Bermuda and reach the more distant ports on the US east coast or Canada that way. For boats bound for ports south of New York Bay a detour via Bermuda makes less sense unless there is a good reason for it.

Similar conditions should be encountered whether starting from St Thomas or Virgin Gorda. Passages should benefit from mostly favourable winds in late May and early June when there is a high percentage of SE and S winds as far as 25°N north, from where SW winds start taking over and become even more pronounced as the area of prevailing westerly winds is entered north of Bermuda. The main concern from there on, especially for boats bound for Newfoundland, is the risk of ice, which in early summer may reach as far south as 40°N, although this is quite rare. While the risk of ice decreases after June, that of hurricanes increases, especially in the early part of the passage. Those who plan to sail any of these passages close to the end of the safe season, should bear in mind that there have been several hurricanes during May, most recently Arthur in mid-May and Bertha in late May 2020. Both have affected the Bahamas, Florida and some southern US states.

Northbound boats can set a direct course for their port of destination. The only land on such a direct route is Bermuda, which should be given a wide berth unless the decision is made to stop there to wait for better conditions for the continuation of the passage.

For boats bound for St John’s in Newfoundland the landfall waypoint has been set off Cape Spear in the approaches to St John’s. A direct offshore route also leads to Nova Scotia, with the recommended waypoint marking the landfall buoy SE of Sambro light at the start of the channel leading into Halifax.

Bermuda may be considered a convenient stop by boats bound for ports between New York and Cape Cod, even if the island is somewhat off the direct course. Boats bound for Newport should make landfall SE of Block Island. The suggested landfall for boats approaching the busy port of New York from the south has been set at the buoy marking the westernmost shipping channel leading into New York. Boats bound for Chesapeake Bay have a clear run to the waypoint marking the entrance into Chesapeake Bay.

Voyages to southern destinations have a choice between sailing at a leisurely pace by breaking up the passage into a number of shorter legs or making a direct passage. If the latter is the preferred option, the passages will be sailed entirely offshore by keeping well to the north of both Turks & Caicos and the Bahamas. For boats bound for either Beaufort or Morehead City in North Carolina the landfall point is set west of Cape Lookout at the entrance into the shipping channel leading into Beaufort Inlet. Boats bound for Charleston, S.C., should make their landfall at the seaward end of the shipping channel leading into the port. For boats bound for Jacksonville, Mayport marks the entrance channel to the St John’s River.

• AN87 Virgin Islands and Puerto Rico to Bermuda

BEST TIME: | Mid-April to May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 13 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A16a Voyages from the Eastern Caribbean |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Bermuda Discovered. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN87A |  |  |  |  |
Charlotte Amalie | Thomas SW | Porpoise |  |  |
18°19.8’N, 64°55.7’W | 18°18.0’N, 64°56.0’W | 18°18.3’N, 64°59’W |  |  |
|  | Savana S |  |  |
|  | 18°19.5’N, 65°02.5’W |  |  |
|  | Savana N |  |  |
|  | 18°22.0’N, 65°05.0’W |  |  |
|  | Virgins N |  |  |
|  | 18°26.0’N, 65°05.0’W |  |  |
|  | Bermuda SE | Bermuda E | St George’s | 853
|  | 32°20.5’N, 64°39.0’W | 32°22.0’N, 64°38.0’W | 32°22.7’N, 64°39.8’W |
Route AN87B |  |  |  |  |
Virgin Gorda | Virgin Gorda W | Virgins NE |  |  |
18°27.0’N, 64°26.2’W | 18°27.0’N, 64°26.7’W | 18°30.0’N, 64°30.7’W |  |  |
|  | Bermuda SE | Bermuda E | St George’s | 838
Route AN87C |  |  |  |  |
San Juan | San Juan NE | Bermuda SE | Bermuda E | St George’s | 840
18°28.5’N, 66°08.0’W | 18°31.0’N, 66°06.0’W |  |  |  |

Bermuda provides an attractive stop for boats sailing from the Virgins or Puerto Rico to either the US or Canada. The best conditions on this route will be found in late spring or early summer. At this time of year the trade winds are more E or SE in direction than in winter. Even if the winds blow from the NE, it does not matter if you are pushed to the west of the desired course, because the further north one goes, the greater likelihood there is of a shift of wind to the south and SW. Tactics for northbound passages are described in AN77.

Passages along this route should benefit from mostly favourable winds in late May when there is a high percentage of SE and S winds as far as 25°N. Further north SW winds become increasingly predominant. The danger of a late norther after the end of April is quite low. Passages on this route are to be avoided after the middle of June because of the increased likelihood of hurricanes. Summer passages along this route are definitely discouraged as the tracks of past hurricanes almost coincide with the direct course to Bermuda. Tropical depressions become more frequent after the beginning of July, and even if they do not generate strong winds, the weather in their vicinity is very unsettled with heavy rain. If such a depression forms close to the Virgin Islands, contrary winds can be expected on the way to Bermuda.

On all these routes a direct course leads all the way to Bermuda where landfall is made SE of St David’s Head. This marks the start of Town Cut, the channel that leads into St George’s Harbour, Bermuda’s only port of entry. The entrance through Town Cut is difficult to negotiate in the dark and those unfamiliar with it should avoid using it at night. Arriving boats must contact Bermuda Radio prior to arrival and give an ETA. The first contact should be attempted when 30 miles from the island. The station is on call 24 hours on 2182 kHz, 4125 kHz, and channels 16 and 27. All entry formalities are completed at the facility on Ordnance Island. Docking facilities have improved with the opening of a new marina but this has considerably limited the space available for anchoring.

• AN88 Virgin Islands to Azores and mainland Europe

BEST TIME: | April to mid-June |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, US 12 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A11 Voyages from the Caribbean |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Islands. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN88A |  |  |  |  |
Charlotte Amalie | Thomas SW | Porpoise |  |  |
18°19.8’N, 64°55.7’W | 18°18.0’N, 64°56.0’W | 18°18.3’N, 64°59’W |  |  |
|  | Savana S |  |  |
|  | 18°19.5’N, 65°02.5’W |  |  |
|  | Savana N |  |  |
|  | 18°22.0’N, 65°05.0’W |  |  |
|  | Virgins N |  |  |
|  | 18°26.0’N, 65°05.0’W |  |  |
|  | Anegada | Faial SE | Horta | 2301
|  | 18°55.0’N, 64°22.0’W | 38°30.5’N, 28°37.0’W | 38°32.1’N, 28°37.0’W |
|  |  | Flores SE | Lajes | 2197
|  |  | 39°21.8’N, 31°09.7’W | 39°22.8’N, 31°09.9’W |
Route AN88B |  |  |  |  |
Virgin Gorda | Virgin Gorda W | Virgins NE |  |  |
18°27.0’N, 64°26.2’W | 18°27.0’N, 64°26.7’W | 18°30.0’N, 64°30.7’W |  |  |
|  | Anegada W |  |  |
|  | 18°45.0’N, 64°26.5’W |  |  |
|  | Anegada | Faial SE | Horta | 2264
|  |  | Flores SE | Lajes | 2162

For many years the accepted wisdom for a return voyage from the Caribbean to Europe via the Azores was to sail first to Bermuda and from then make your easting by heading NE to reach the area of prevailing westerlies before altering course for your Azorean destination. The chances of finding better winds than on a direct route were indeed greater, but so was the total distance sailed. In recent years increasingly more sailors have taken the shorter route only to find that their passage times were as good, if not better, than those who had taken the traditional route. The direct route may occasionally run into areas of calms or light winds, especially if the Azores High extends west from its seasonal location.

Anegada waypoint marks the start of the offshore route from where it may be possible to join the great circle route. However, if the wind direction makes it impossible to sail the great circle course, the tack that makes most northing should be favoured. By late May or early June E and SE winds are a dominant feature to about 25°N. Depending on the location of the Azores High, there should be a high proportion of southerly winds even north of that latitude. Route AN79 should be consulted for more tactical details.

Horta, on the island of Faial, continues to be the most popular landfall in the Azores even if the marina is full to capacity at the bumper arrival time. The landfall for Horta is on Faial’s south coast.

The small marina inside the commercial harbour at Lajes, on the westernmost island of Flores, offers the possibility of clearing into the Azores at a point from where it is easier to visit most other islands. Having made landfall south of Flores, the coast is followed eastwards to the port of Lajes located just north of Ponta das Lajes, the island’s SE extremity.

For direct routes to mainland Europe see AN79 and AN123.

A90 • Caribbean routes from Panama

• | AN91 | Panama to Western Caribbean | 113
• | AN92 | Panama to Gulf of Mexico | 116
• | AN93 | Panama to Jamaica | 117
• | AN94 | Panama to Hispaniola | 118
• | AN95 | Panama to Virgin Islands | 119
• | AN96 | Panama to Colombia and ABC Islands | 119
• | AN97 | Panama to Lesser Antilles and Venezuela | 120
• | AN98 | Panama to Bahamas and Florida | 121
• | AN99 | Panama to Bermuda and North America | 122

Most of the Caribbean routes that start in Panama have certain common features, usually related to weather, and these should be taken into account whichever route is contemplated. Most important is the advice to avoid passages through the Caribbean during the hurricane season, especially during the months of highest frequency, from August to October. Some of the late hurricanes actually form in the Caribbean and warnings are therefore shorter than when the depression has been tracked across the Atlantic. Rough seas can also be experienced in the Western Caribbean at the height of the winter trades, whereas in the Gulf of Mexico winter is associated with violent northerly storms. Another concern in the Gulf of Mexico is the strong currents whose direction is often different to that depicted on charts.

The entire area is affected by weather systems forming over the North American continental landmass, such as the winter northers, although these storms gradually decrease in intensity further south. These northers, combined with strong NE trade winds, can result in very strong winds described as intensified trades in the most southerly portion of the Caribbean Sea.

There are also distinctive regional features such as the fact that from November to March the winds off the coast of Central America tend to be more northerly. This coast is particularly affected by land and sea breezes. The sea breeze commences from the NE in mid-morning and gradually increases, drawing around to the E between mid-afternoon and sunset. The breeze carries on moving around clockwise until night when it blows moderately from the SE. In the more southern coastal areas this land breeze can become W or SW. The summer rainy season is characterised by squally weather especially in the late afternoon.

AN90 Caribbean routes from Panama

Because of the NE winds prevailing for much of the year, passages from Panama to most Eastern Caribbean destinations are hard to accomplish. Sailors arriving from the Pacific, or based in Panama, usually attempt to make this passage late in the year so as to arrive in the Lesser Antilles during the hurricane-free season. More comfortable passages have been made in late spring, when winds usually blow from a more favourable direction. Whichever route is chosen, the outcome will often be decided by the windward performance of the boat, as most of the passage will be hard on the wind. One solution is to reach the Eastern Caribbean in shorter stages, either by following the north coast of South America via Colombia and the ABC Islands, or by taking a northern sweep via the Dominican Republic.

Northbound passages from Panama can also be difficult, especially in early winter when the NE winds are at their strongest. As the winds start veering east, passages to destinations in the Western Caribbean and Gulf of Mexico become easier to accomplish. Those bound for the Windward Passage and beyond may have to wait until the change of seasons, from late April to early June, when there is a higher proportion of easterly winds. However, June is also the start of the hurricane season and, as occasionally such tropical storms may originate in the Caribbean Sea, this risk must be borne in mind when planning a passage.

• AN91 Panama to Western Caribbean

BEST TIME: | December, April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Northwest Caribbean, Cruising Guide to Belize and Mexico’s Caribbean Coast, Explore Central America Part 1.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN91A |  |  |  |  |
Cristobal | Cristobal N | Roncador W |  |  |
9°23.3’N, 79°55.1’W | 9°26.5’N, 79°54.5’W | 13°33.0’N, 80°30.0’W |  |  |
|  | Serrana W |  |  |
|  | 14°15.0’N, 80°42.0’W |  |  |
|  | Rosalind SW |  |  |
|  | 15°35.0’N, 81°0.0’W |  |  |
|  | Honduras E |  |  |
|  | 16°00.0’N, 81°35.0’W |  |  |
|  | Honduras NE |  |  |
|  | 16°30.0’N, 83°04.0’W |  |  |
|  | Honduras N | Guanaja E | Bonacca | 672
|  | 16°41.0’N, 85°11.0’W | 16°29.5’N, 85°46.0’W | 16°26.0’N, 85°51.0’W |
|  | Roatan NE | Roatan SE | Roatan | 715
|  | 16°35.0’N, 85°56.0’W | 16°23.5’N, 86°05.0’W | 16°18.0’N, 86°29.0’W |
|  | Amatique | Dulce | Livingston | 847
|  | 16°00.0’N, 88°38.0’W | 15°51.0’N, 88°44.0’W | 15°49.5’N, 88°44.5’W |
|  | Barrier SW | Gorda E | Punta Gorda | 845
|  | 16°00.0’N, 88°19.0’W | 16°05.0’N, 88°42.0’W East Snake | 16 °05.7’N, 88°47.8’W Placencia | 881
|  |  | 16°12.5’N, 88°28.0’W | 16°31.0’N, 88°22.0’W |
Route AN91B |  |  |  |  |
Cristobal | Cristobal N | Roncador W |  |  |
|  | Serrana W |  |  |
|  | Rosalind SW |  |  |
|  | Thunder |  |  |
|  | 16°25’N, 81°30’W |  |  |
|  | Swan S |  |  |
|  | 17°00.0’N, 83°55.0’W |  |  |
|  | Turneffe S | Turneffe SW | Belize City | 826
|  | 16°59.0’N, 87°39.6’W | 17°06.0’N, 87°7’W | 17°20.0’N, 88°02.5’W |
|  | Turneffe NE | Ambergris | San Pedro | 821
|  | 17°35.0’N, 87°25.3’W | 17°57.5’N, 87°50.0’W | 17°56.0’N, 87°56.0’W |
Route AN91C |  |  |  |  |
Cristobal | Cristobal N | Roncador W |  |  |
|  | Serrana W |  |  |
|  | Rosalind SW |  |  |
|  | Thunder |  |  |
|  | Cozumel S | Cozumel W | Cozumel | 842
|  | 20°10.0’N, 86°56.0’W | 20°23.5’N, 87°03.0’W | 20°30.0’N, 86°58.5’W |
|  | Mujeres S | Mujeres W | Isla Mujeres | 851
|  | 21°11.0’N, 86°42.0’W | 21°14.0’N, 86°45.7’W | 21°15.0’N, 86°45.5’W |
Route AN91D |  |  |  |  |
Cristobal | Cristobal N | Albuquerque | Andrés SE | San Andrés | 222
|  | 12°07.0’N, 81°40.0’W | 12°32.5’N, 81°40.5’W | 12 °34.4’N, 81°41.9’W |
|  | Andrés NE |  |  |
|  | 12°37.0’N, 81°40.0’W |  |  |
|  | Prov S |  |  |
|  | 13°07.0’N, 81°20.0’W |  |  |
|  | Serrana W |  |  |
|  | Rosalind SW |  |  |
Route AN91E |  |  |  |  |
Cristobal | Cristobal N | Courtown E | Prov SW | Providencia | 258
|  | 12°26.0’N, 81°6.0’W | 13°18.5’N, 81°26.3’W | 13°23.0’N, 81 °22.7’W |
|  | Prov NW |  |  |
|  | 13°33.0’N, 81°22.2’W |  |  |
|  | Prov N |  |  |
|  | 13°33.0’N, 81°22.2’W |  |  |
|  | Sueño SE |  |  |
|  | 14°04.0’N, 81°04.0’W |  |  |
|  | Sueño NE |  |  |
|  | 14°40.0’N, 81°02.0’W |  |  |
|  | Rosalind SW |  |  |
Route AN91F |  |  |  |  |
Cristobal | Cristobal N |  |  | Puerto Limon | 198
|  |  |  | 10°00.0’N, 83°03.0’W |
|  |  |  | El Bluff | 290
|  |  |  | 12°01.0’N, 83°44.0’W |
|  |  |  | Cabezas | 418
|  |  |  | 14°01.7’N, 83 °22.8’W |
|  |  |  | Puerto Lempira | 508
|  |  |  | 15°16.0’N, 83°46.0’W |

Those who intend to spend some time cruising in the Western Caribbean should attempt to arrive there at the start of the safe season, in early December. That means that the timing of northbound passages should also coincide with those times, but as this is the period of consistent NE winds, there may be only two options to choose from: to take them on come what may, or wait until later in winter when they start being replaced by easterly winds. The first option may only appeal to those who are confident in the windward-going capability of their boat, and even then there are additional interrelated factors that must be borne in mind. The western part of the Caribbean Sea, especially the coastal areas of Nicaragua, is peppered with shallow areas and reefs. As the northbound route needs to keep to windward of these dangers, the strong west-setting current must be allowed for when setting a course.

Route AN91A is the quickest as mostly a direct offshore course can be sailed all the way from the Panama Canal to the southern end of a deep channel between Rosalind and Gorda Banks. The route keeps well to the east of the Colombian islands of San Andrés and Providencia, and the reefs surrounding them, and passes between Quita Sueño and Serrana Banks. From Rosalind SW the route crosses the NE part of Gorda Bank with depths varying between 10 and 50 metres (30 to 150 feet). From here, the route turns west for the Bay of Honduras where there is a wide choice of destinations within easy reach, including Honduras, Guatemala or Southern Belize. The nearest port of entry into Honduras is Guanaja, one of the Bay Islands, where formalities are completed at Bonacca, a small cay south of Guanaja itself. This is the main settlement, where entry formalities are completed at the port captain’s office.

Those who prefer to sail directly to the larger island of Roatan should set a course to Roatan NE, and then follow the south coast of the island to Roatan Town, known locally as Coxen Hole. This is the main settlement and administrative centre, where formalities are completed in the commercial port. The best alternative is to go directly to one of the marinas in the western part of the island and visit the visit the authorities from there.

Guatemala’s main cruising attraction is Rio Dulce and those who wish to proceed nonstop should stay north of both Guanaja and Roatan and make landfall off Cabo Tres Puntas at the entrance into Amatique Bay. From there, the route leads past the western end of Ox Tongue Shoal, marked by a light, to the landfall buoy marking the entrance into Rio Dulce. The river has a sandbar at the entrance with a maximum depth of 2.20 m (7.5 ft) at high tide. The entrance should not be negotiated at night as the navigation lights are reported to be unreliable. Advice on the state of the tide and entry procedures may be obtained on channel 68. The port of entry is Livingston, on the north shore of the river, where it may be possible to come alongside the municipal dock. Officials will visit the boat to complete formalities before being allowed to proceed upstream.

Those bound for Southern Belize and not planning to stop in any of the Honduran islands should set a course for the SW extremity of Belize’s Barrier Reef. The next waypoint marks the eastern end of a channel leading to Punta Gorda. This is the southernmost port of entry into Belize and a convenient place to complete formalities. Alistair King’s Marina is just a fuel dock where it is possible to anchor and walk to the customs and immigration offices.

Those who prefer to continue north inside the Barrier Reef should turn north for the East Snake waypoint set at the southern end of the Inner Channel, a buoyed shipping fairway which leads to Belize City. The small town of Placencia will be passed on the way, which is also an official port of entry.

Route AN91B outlines routes to destinations in Northern Belize. The initial route is similar to AN91A as far as Rosalind SW from where it continues north to a waypoint just west of a shallow area known as Thunder Knoll, with a minimum depth of 11 m (35 ft). From that point the route turns NW for Northern Belize.

Route AN91C follows a similar track but makes landfall in Southern Mexico and the popular cruising destinations of the islands of Cozumel and Mujeres.

Routes AN91D and AN91E may appeal to those who are prepared to break the voyage to visit the two Colombian islands of San Andrés and Providencia, and rejoin the main route at a later point. This entails a longer detour if the intention is to call at both islands, or a shorter one if only a stop in the latter is planned. Provisioning and repair facilities are better at San Andrés whereas Providencia is a more tranquil and attractive island. Boats bound for San Andrés should set a course to a waypoint set between two low cays in the approaches to San Andrés, both of which are marked by lights. The next waypoint marks the entrance to the buoyed channel that leads into Puerto de San Andrés, where formalities are completed but the use of a local agent is compulsory.

Boats bound for Providencia should set a course for the SW extremity of the island. The west coast should be passed at a safe distance as it is encumbered by a number of reefs. Waypoint Prov NW marks the entrance to the shipping channel leading into Catalina Harbour where the services of a local agent are required to deal with entry formalities. Mariners have been advised that there is a significant data offset on most electronic charts covering this area.

The northbound route from Providencia passes east of the extensive Quita Sueño Bank and continues to Rosalind SW to join the previously described route to destinations in the Gulf of Honduras.

The same destinations may be reached by the inshore route AN91F, which is shorter but more challenging than the offshore alternatives on account of the difficult navigation and the uncertain situation in some of the stopover places. As this route entails inshore navigation, no waypoints are listed with the exception of the coordinates of some of the suggested stopover places. A first stop can be made in Costa Rica’s Puerto Limon, the country’s main commercial harbour. Limon port control must be contacted on channels 14 or 16 prior to entering the commercial port area. From there, the route follows the Mosquito (Miskito) Coast of Nicaragua. This is an area encumbered by shallows and reefs making for challenging navigation. There are few sheltered ports or anchorages, with two official ports of entry at its extremes, El Bluff (Bluefields) in the south, and Puerto Cabezas in the north. The nearest Honduran port of entry is Puerto Lempira located on the shores of the Caratasca Lagoon at the eastern extremity of Honduras. Both the entrance and the lagoon itself are shallow so it is probably safer to stay outside of Gorda Bank and join the offshore route into the Bay of Honduras. Safety concerns discouraged most cruising boats from visiting Nicaragua in the recent past. The latest situation should be ascertained before visiting any of these places.

• AN92 Panama to Gulf of Mexico

BEST TIME: | December, April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Northwest Caribbean, Cruising Guide to Belize and Mexico’s Caribbean Coast, Cruising Guide to Northern Florida.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN92A |  |  |  |  |
Cristobal | Cristobal N | Roncador W |  |  |
9°23.3’N, 79 °55.1’W | 9°26.5’N, 79°54.5’W | 13°33.0’N, 80°30.0’W |  |  |
|  | Serrana W |  |  |
|  | 14°15.0’N, 80°42.0’W |  |  |
|  | Rosalind SW |  |  |
|  | 15°35.0’N, 81°0.0’W |  |  |
|  | Thunder |  |  |
|  | 16°25.0’N, 81°30.0’W |  |  |
|  | Yucatan N | Galveston SE | Galveston | 1495
|  | 21°46.0’N, 86°46.0’W | 29°06.0’N, 94°22.0’W | 29 °20.3’N, 94°40.9’W |
Route AN92B |  |  |  |  |
Cristobal | Cristobal N | Roncador SW |  |  |
|  | Serrana W |  |  |
|  | Rosalind SW |  |  |
|  | Thunder |  |  |
|  | Yucatan SE |  |  |
|  | 21°40.0’N, 85°8.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cuba NW | Key S | Key West | 1083
|  | 22°32.0’N, 84°58.0’W | 24°27.5’N, 81°48.1’W | 24 °32.0’N, 81 °48.4’W |
|  |  | Tampa SW | Tampa | 1220
|  |  | 27°35.5’N, 82°52.5’W | 27°54.0’N, 82 °26.3’W |

There are two alternative routes to choose from: a western route that passes close to the various reefs and cays off the Nicaraguan and Honduran coasts to the Yucatan Channel, and an eastern route that heads for the Windward Passage and reaches Florida through the Old Bahama Channel (as described in route AN98). The first alternative has two further options to choose from: a mostly offshore route which can be sailed nonstop all the way to the Yucatan Channel, or a more westerly route which would appeal to those who intend to visit the Colombian islands of San Andrés and Providencia, as outlined in routes AN91D and E.

The prevailing winds north of Panama as far as latitude 15°N are NE. Further north towards the Yucatan Channel, between February and May, there is a reasonable proportion of southerly winds. The current along this route sets in a NW direction attaining its strongest rate in the Yucatan Channel. The sets in the Gulf of Mexico are complex and difficult to predict, particularly in the area of the Dry Tortugas where extreme caution should be exercised.

The initial route heads north past Roncador Cay, which is marked by a light as is Southwest Cay on Serrana Bank. The course continues to the southern end of a deep channel between Rosalind and Gorda Banks. Thunder waypoint is set just west of a shallow area known as Thunder Knoll, with a minimum depth of 11 m (35 ft). From that point, route AN92A heads for the Yucatan Channel and destinations in the west of the Gulf of Mexico, while route AN92B is bound for destinations in Southern Florida.

• AN93 Panama to Jamaica

BEST TIME: | April, December |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, US 400 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | The Northwest Caribbean. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN93A |  |  |  |  |
Cristobal | Cristobal N | Jamaica S |  |  |
9°23.3’N, 79°55.1’W | 9°26.5’N, 79°54.5’W | 17°03.0’N, 77°08.0’W |  |  |
|  | SE Cay | Kingston S | Kingston | 544
|  | 17°53.5’N, 76°47.1’W | 17°56.0’N, 76°51.0’W | 17°55.0’N, 76°47.0’W |
Route AN93B |  |  |  |  |
Cristobal | Cristobal N | Jamaica E |  |  |
|  | 17°53.0’N, 76°05.5’W |  |  |
|  | Jamaica NE | Port Antonio N | Port Antonio | 590
|  | 18°14.0’N, 76°16.0’W | 18°11.3’N, 76°26.8’W | 18°11.5’N, 76°26.5’W |
Route AN93C |  |  |  |  |
Cristobal | Cristobal N | Nuevo SE |  |  |
|  | 15°45.0’N, 78°22.0’W |  |  |
|  | Nuevo NE |  |  |
|  | 16°05.0’N, 78°26.0’W |  |  |
|  | Jamaica SW |  |  |
|  | 18°08.0’N, 78°28.0’W |  |  |
|  | Jamaica W |  |  |
|  | 18°25.0’N, 78°21.0’W |  |  |
|  | Jamaica NW | Montego | Montego Bay | 575
|  | 18°28.5’N, 78°14.0’W | 18°29.0’N, 77°57.0’W | 18°28.2’N, 77°55.6’W |

Boats bound for ports in the eastern part of Jamaica can sail a direct course that stays well to the east of the various banks that make navigation so much more challenging to destinations in the Western Caribbean. Boats on passage to the capital Kingston should set a course for the suggested waypoint off SE Cay in the approaches to Kingston. From there, a new course is set for the entrance into South Channel, which leads into Kingston Harbour. The route passes close to Pedro Bank and adequate allowance should be made for leeway when sailing to windward of it, especially in heavy weather.

Boats bound for the NE coast of Jamaica (route AN93B) should steer an easterly course for Northeast Point and thence to their port of destination. Those bound for ports in Western Jamaica, such as Montego Bay, should sail a more western route that stays east of Roncador Bank and passes between New and Seranilla Banks. Having passed the western limit of Pedro Bank, a new course is set to make landfall at Negril Point at Jamaica’s western extremity. From there, the NW coast of the island is followed around to the north end of the channel leading into Montego Bay Harbour. Montego Bay has the best facilities and most active sailing community in Jamaica. The local yacht club is the host to a number of international races and visiting boats are always welcome.

• AN94 Panama to Hispaniola

BEST TIME: | March to April, December |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Turks & Caicos and the Dominican Republic Guide. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN94A |  |  |  |  |
Cristobal | Cristobal N | Farallones |  |  |
9°23.3’N, 79°55.1’W | 9°26.5’N, 79°54.5’W | 9°40.0’N, 79°38.5’W |  |  |
|  | Vache SW | Vache NW | Port Morgan |   636
|  | 18°02.0’N, 73°42.0’W | 18°07.0’N, 73°43.0’W | 18°06.5’N, 73 °41.8’W |
Route AN94B |  |  |  |  |
Cristobal | Cristobal N | Farallones |  |  |
|  | Palenque | Caucedo | Zarpar |  808
|  | 18°0.0’N, 70°0.0’W | 18°24.0’N, 69°37.0’W | 18°25.5’N, 69°37.0’W |
Route AN94C |  |  |  |  |
Cristobal | Cristobal N | Mona SW |  |  |
|  | 18°0.0’N, 68°8.0’W |  |  |
|  | Engano | Samaná E | Samaná |  972
|  | 18°40.0’N, 68°10.0’W | 19°07.5’N, 68°58.0’W | 19°13.0’N, 69°19.0’W |
|  | Cabron |  |  |
|  | 19°24.0’N, 69°10.0’W |  |  |
|  | Frances |  |  |
|  | 19°45.0’N, 69°53.0’W |  |  |
|  | Patilla | Luperón N | Luperón | 1076
|  | 19°56.0’N, 70°50.0’W | 19°55.2’N, 70°56.5’W | 19 °55.0’N, 70°56.0’W |

Destinations on the south coast of this large island lie to windward of Panama for much of the winter sailing season. The only time when passages on this route have a chance of favourable winds is in late spring when there is a small proportion of SE winds. At all other times the best tactic is to sail the best course you can and adjust your tacks according to the existing winds. In the worst case you may end up on the south coast of Jamaica, from where it ought to be possible to gain some easting by breaking the voyage into shorter legs along the coasts of Haiti and the Dominican Republic where more favourable conditions may be found in inshore waters.

AN94A is a suggested route to Port Morgan, on the south coast of Haiti. The small marina is sheltered in a small cove reputed to have been Henry Morgan’s hideaway. The landfall for route AN94B is at Punta Palenque in the approaches to Santo Domingo. As facilities for visiting yachts in the Dominican capital are limited, it may be advisable to continue in a NE direction to Cabo Caucedo, at the entrance to Bahia de Andrés. Cruising boats normally either anchor at Boca Chica, a resort east of the capital, or use the services of Marina Zarpar. This is a full-service marina, where entry formalities can be completed.

Route AN94C would appeal to those who are interested in exploring the north coast of the Dominican Republic, which is reached through the Mona Passage. Two attractive bays, Samaná and Luperón, are popular cruising destinations among North American sailors heading for the Virgins or Lesser Antilles. More details in route AN74.

• AN95 Panama to Virgin Islands

BEST TIME: | March to April, December |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to the Virgin | Islands. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Cristobal | Cristobal N | Farallones |  |  |
9°23.3’N, 79°55.1’W | 9°26.5’N, 79°54.5’W | 9°40.0’N, 79°38.5’W |  |  |
|  | Virgins SW | Thomas SW | Charlotte Amalie | 1025
|  | 17°55.0’N, 65°15.0’W | 18°18.0’N, 64°56.0’W | 18°19.8’N, 64°55.7’W |
|  | Flanagan S |  |  |
|  | 18°18.5’N, 64°39.0’W |  |  |
|  | Peter W | Virgin Gorda W | Virgin Gorda | 1068
|  | 18°21.5’N, 64°37.0’W | 18°27.0’N, 64°26.7’W | 18°27.0’N, 64°26.2’W |

This is a difficult route throughout the year on account of the prevailing winds and the west-setting current. The only time when there is a chance of favourable winds for at least part of this passage is in late spring when it may be possible to sail a direct course as outlined above. At all other times two radically different routes may offer a more attractive alternative: to head north through the Windward Passage and turn east along the north coasts of Hispaniola and Puerto Rico, or to sail as close to the wind as possible to the south coast of Hispaniola and then continue to the Virgins by either staying south of Puerto Rico or going north of the island through the Mona Passage. As none of these alternatives should be attempted during the hurricane season, a more drastic alternative may have to be contemplated, although it entails a lengthy detour through the Southern Caribbean. Such a route has the attraction that it can be sailed at almost any time of the year although the height of the hurricane season should be avoided. The route follows the coast of Colombia, with a convenient stop at the port of Santa Marta. From there, the ABC Islands provide attractive intermediate stops until the point is reached where a course can be set for the Virgin Islands. The summer could be spent in this safer area before heading north at the end of the hurricane season. Routes AN96 and AN97 have more details.

• AN96 Panama to Colombia and ABC Islands

BEST TIME: | April, December |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to Venezuela and Bonaire, The ABC Islands. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN96A |  |  |  |  |
Cristobal | Cristobal N | Farallones | Barranquilla N | Santa Marta | 880
9°23.3’N, 79°55.1’W | 9°26.5’N, 79°54.5’W | 9°40.0’N, 79°38.5’W | 11°12.0’N, 74°52.0’W | 11°14.5’N, 74°13.0’W |
|  | Salmedina | Boca | Cartagena | 269
|  | 10°24.0’N, 75°39.0’W | 10°23.5’N, 75°35.0’W | 10°23.5’N, 75°34.0’W |
Route AN96B |  |  |  |  |
Cristobal | Cristobal N | Farallones |  |  |
|  | Gallinas | Aruba NW | Oranjestad | 633
|  | 12°55.0’N, 71°38.0’W | 12°31.0’N, 70°04.5’W | 12°30.3’N, 70°2.5’W |
|  | Aruba S | Curaçao W | Willemstad | 703
`` |  | 12°23.5’N, 69°53.0’W | 12°06.0’N, 69°00.0’W | 12°05.5’N, 68°56.5’W |
|  | Curaçao SW | Curaçao SE | Kralendijk | 736
|  | 12°01.5’N, 68°49.0’W | 12°02.5’N, 68°43.0’W | 12 °07.0’N, 68°18.7’W |

Sailing from neighbouring Panama to any destination on the Caribbean coast of Colombia is not easily accomplished at any time of the year on account of the contrary wind and strong current. A convenient stop en route is the San Blas Islands. The route then cuts across the Gulf of Darien to Cartagena, an attractive historic town, which has become the most popular port of call among cruising boats visiting Colombia. The initial course is set to clear Las Farallones, a group of rocks off Punta Cacique. From there, a direct course can be set for north of the Salmedina Shoal light in the approaches to Cartagena. The main access channel is Boca Chica, which is used by commercial shipping and lies further south. Those who decide to use the Boca Chica Channel must contact port control on channels 14 or 16. The narrower Boca Grande is used by yachts. The channel entrance is marked by two buoys but there are no leading marks and entry at night is difficult. The maximum depth of Boca Grande is 2.35 m (7.5 feet). Formalities can be completed at one of the two yacht clubs, which should be contacted on channel 16 for docking information. An alternative to Cartagena is Santa Marta, another attractive city on this Colombian coast. From Farallones a direct course can be set to Barranquilla N, and thence to Santa Marta. Marina Santa Marta is located just south of the container port. The marina normally deals with entry formalities.

Those who are bound for the ABC Islands, but do not intend to stop at either San Blas or Cartagena, are faced with a long offshore tack from Las Farallones to a waypoint off Punta de Gallinas. Having passed that significant point, which is almost halfway to the Lesser Antilles, a first stop can be made in Aruba, the nearest of the ABC Islands. From there, the eastbound voyage can be broken up by calling at each of the ABC Islands.

• AN97 Panama to Lesser Antilles and Venezuela

BEST TIME: | April, December
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400
CRUISING GUIDES: | Sailors Guide to the Windward Islands, Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands, Cruising Guide to Venezuela and Bonaire.

This could be a tough trip as direct passages to most destinations are to windward almost throughout the year. It is a challenge that must be faced by all those who intend to head east after transiting the Panama Canal. In winter, at the height of the trade wind season, the winds can be very strong, and this combined with the contrary current makes progress almost impossible. For this reason no suggested routes or waypoints have been listed. Indeed, because of the sheer difficulty of reaching the Eastern Caribbean nonstop, most boats break up the voyage into shorter stages by stopping at some places on the way (as outlined in AN96). The San Blas Islands, an autonomous region of Panama, are first on the list not only because of their location but also for their attraction as a cruising destination. Those who wish to visit them must stop at Porvenir to complete formalities. Whether calling at the San Blas Islands or not, a further stop can be made at Cartagena and Santa Marta in Colombia. The next stop could be the island of Aruba, the nearest of the ABC Islands. Further stops may be made in the other ABC or northern islands of Venezuela. Arrival information on any of these places is given in AN71 and AN72.

Provided the internal situation in Venezuela has returned to normal, the eastbound passage through Venezuelan waters should be made as close inshore as safety consideration will allow so as to take advantage of both land and sea breezes and a favourable counter-current that runs close to the coast. At night the trade winds usually die away and this is the time to sail inshore to use the land breeze by taking an offshore tack during the day and heading for the shore before nightfall. In this way Trinidad or Grenada can be reached in short hops, and from there, any of the other islands in the Eastern Caribbean.

The best time for a passage along a southern route is between June and August, when the trade winds along the north coast of South America are somewhat less consistent in both strength and direction than in winter. October and early November, the other two months when one can expect lighter winds, are still in the hurricane season. Although Colombia and Venezuela, as well as the offlying islands, are mostly outside the hurricane belt, conditions in the Southern Caribbean can become extremely uncomfortable if a hurricane is passing further to the east or north. The worst time to attempt this passage is at the height of the winter trades, from January to early April. The undisputed difficulty of this route must be seriously considered before including it in your Caribbean cruising plans.

• AN98 Panama to Bahamas and Florida

BEST TIME: | March to April, December |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to Eastern Florida, Southern Bahamas, Northern Bahamas. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN98A |  |  |  |  |
Cristobal | Cristobal N | Farallones |  |  |
9°23.3’N, 79°55.1’W | 9°26.5’N, 79°54.5’W | 9°40.0’N, 79°38.5’W |  |  |
|  | Jamaica SE |  |  |
|  | 17°16.0’N, 75°56.0’W |  |  |
|  | Navassa W |  |  |
|  | 18°25.0’N, 75°08.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cuba E |  |  |
|  | 20°10.0’N, 73°57.0’W |  |  |
|  | Fraile N |  |  |
|  | 20°26.0’N, 74°11.3’W |  |  |
|  | Old S |  |  |
|  | 22°10.5’N, 77°27.5’W |  |  |
|  | Old N |  |  |
|  | 22°51.0’N, 78°45.5’W |  |  |
|  | Santaren | Cut | Miami | 1252
|  | 24°08.0’N, 79°30.0’W | 25°46.0’N, 80°04.5’W | 25°45.8’N, 80°07.9’W |
Route AN98B |  |  |  |  |
Cristobal | Cristobal N | Farallones |  |  |
|  | Jamaica SE |  |  |
|  | Navassa W |  |  |
|  | Cuba E |  |  |
|  | Cuba NE | Inagua SW | Matthew |   782
|  | 20°40.0’N, 74°00.0’W | 20°54.0’N, 73°41.0’W | 20°56.0’N, 73°41.0’W |
|  |  | Mira |  |
|  |  | 22°05.0’N, 74°24.0’W |  |
|  |  | Crooked |  |
|  |  | 22°53.0’N, 74°34.0’W |  |
|  |  | San Salvador W | San Salvador |   970
|  |  | 24°03.0’N, 74°36.0’W | 24°02.7’N, 74°33.0’W |
|  | San Salvador NW |  |  |
|  | 24°11.5 ‘N, 74°34.5’W |  |  |
|  | Providence NE |  |  |
|  | 25°46.0’N, 76°38.0’W |  |  |
|  | Providence E | Rock | Sandy Point | 1171
|  | 25°49.5’N, 77°15.0’W | 25°59.0’N, 77°25.5’W | 26°01.0’N, 77°24.0’W |
|  |  | Abaco NE | Marsh Harbour | 1184
|  |  | 26°35.0’N, 76°50.0’W | 26°32.4’N, 77°.04.0’W |
|  | Abaco N |  |  |
|  | 27°05.0’N, 77°30.0’W |  |  |
|  | Abaco NW | Comachee | St Augustine | 1508
|  | 27°31.0’N, 78°43.0’W | 29°55.0’N, 81°05.0’W | 29°55.0’N, 81 °14.5’W |
|  |  | Mayport | Jacksonville | 1498
|  |  | 30°23.5’N, 81°17.0’W | 30°24.0’N, 81°21.5’W |

The shortest way to reach the Bahamas from Panama is through the Windward Passage and this is also the logical way to sail to ports on the US and Canadian seaboards. The times when the Caribbean section of this route can be sailed comfortably are relatively short due to the prevailing NE winds. The best periods are either between April and May, when the trade winds have lost their winter strength and may have a SE element in them, or December, before the onset of the strong winter trades. Passages during the hurricane season should be avoided, especially during the months of highest frequency (August to October). During all other summer months the weather should be observed closely.

The first leg of this voyage can be sailed nonstop all the way to the Windward Passage. The alternative is to break the passage in Jamaica, as described in route AN93. The latter course of action may need to be considered if strong NE winds make it too hard to sail the direct course to the Windward Passage. Occasionally it may be difficult even to sail to Jamaica, in which case route AN92 should be consulted as it may provide an alternative northbound route via the Yucatan Channel. That should in any case be the preferred route to destinations in Southern Florida and even further north if existing conditions make it too hard to reach the Windward Passage.

Boats leaving Panama on a nonstop passage for the Windward Passage should sail the offshore route, which leads well clear of all shoals and reefs, which are a feature of the Western Caribbean Sea. The route passes west of Navassa Island, which is certainly recommended in strong winds to avoid the breaking seas on the shallow banks lying off the Haitian coast. The course then leads through the Windward Passage NE of Cape Maisi, at Cuba’s eastern extremity. A traffic separation zone is in operation off this point. Having reached this point, boats bound for South Florida should take the route via the Old Bahama Channel. Boats bound for the Western Bahamas may follow the same route, whereas those bound for the Central or Outer Bahamas should head north to Great Inagua where entry formalities into the Bahamas can be completed at Matthew Town, the main settlement on that island. Otherwise the route continues via the Mira Por Vos Passage passing Acklins and Crooked Islands on the way to San Salvador Island. From there, the route continues north to the NE Providence Channel, with a suggested landfall at Sandy Point on Great Abaco. Boats bound for Central Florida may continue west through the NW Providence Channel, while those bound for ports in North Florida should continue east and north of Great Abaco and thence to their destination.

• AN99 Panama to Bermuda and North America

BEST TIME: | April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4013, US 13 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A16c Voyages from Panama |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Bermuda Discovered, Cruising Guide to the New England Coast, Cruising Guide to Newfoundland, Cruising Guide to the Nova Scotia Coast.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN99A |  |  |  |  |
Cristobal | Cristobal N | Farallones |  |  |
9°23.3’N, 79 °55.1’W | 9°26.5’N, 79°54.5’W | 9°40.0’N, 79°38.5’W |  |  |
|  | Jamaica SE |  |  |
|  | 17°16.0’N, 75°56.0’W |  |  |
|  | Navassa E |  |  |
|  | 18°24.0’N, 74°54.0’W |  |  |
|  | Haiti NW |  |  |
|  | 20°00.0’N, 73°27.0’W |  |  |
|  | Caicos W |  |  |
|  | 21°30.0’N, 72°44.0’W |  |  |
|  | Caicos NW |  |  |
|  | 22°16.0’N, 72°22.0’W |  |  |
|  | Chesapeake | Bay | Norfolk X | 1839
|  | 36°42.0’N, 74°48.0’W | 37°02.5’N, 76°04.0’W | 36 °58.0’N, 76°22.0’W |
|  |  | New York SE | New York X | 2019
|  |  | 40°07.5’N, 73°21.0’W | 40°42.0’N, 74°0.0’W |
|  |  | Newport S | Newport X | 2063
|  |  | 41°06.5’N, 71°22.0’W | 41°29.0’N, 71°20.0’W |
Route AN99B |  |  |  |  |
Cristobal | Cristobal N | Farallones |  |  |
|  | Jamaica SE |  |  |
|  | Navassa E |  |  |
|  | Haiti NW |  |  |
|  | Caicos W |  |  |
|  | Caicos NW |  |  |
|  | Bermuda S |  |  |
|  | 32°13.0’N, 64°50.0’W |  |  |
|  | Bermuda SE | Bermuda E | St George’s | 1744
|  | 32°20.5’N, 64°39.0’W | 32°22.0’N, 64°38.0’W | 32 °22.7’N, 64 °39.8’W |
|  | Bermuda NE |  |  |
|  | 32°26.5’N, 64°34.0’W |  |  |
|  | Terra | Spear | St John’s X | 2829
|  | 46°37.0’N, 52°23.0’W | 47°31.5’N, 52°34.2’W | 47°34.0’N, 52°40.0’W |
|  | Nova | Sambro | Halifax X | 2315
|  | 44°06.0’N, 63°5.0’W | 44°27.0’N, 63°26.5’W | 44°38.0’N, 63°34.0’W |
Route AN99C |  |  |  |  |
Cristobal | Cristobal N | Farallones |  |  |
|  | Jamaica SE |  |  |
|  | Navassa W |  |  |
|  | 18°25.0’N, 75°08.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cuba E |  |  |
|  | 20°10.0’N, 73°57.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cuba NE | Inagua SW | Matthew |   782
|  | 20°40.0’N, 74°00.0’W | 20°54.0’N, 73°41.0’W | 20°56.0’N, 73 °41.0’W |
|  | Mira |  |  |
|  | 22°05.0’N, 74°24.0’W |  |  |
|  | Crooked |  |  |
|  | 22°53.0’N, 74°34.0’W |  |  |
|  | San Salvador SW | San Salvador W | San Salvador |   970
|  | 23°55.7’N, 74°35.0’W | 24°03.0’N, 74°36.0’W | 24°02.7’N, 74°33.0’W |
|  | San Salvador NW |  |  |
|  | 24°11.5 ‘N, 74°34.5’W |  |  |
|  | Providence NE |  |  |
|  | 25°46.0’N, 76°38.0’W |  |  |
|  | Providence E |  |  |
|  | 25°49.5’N, 77°15.0’W |  |  |
|  | Abaco NE | Charles | Charleston | 1597
|  | 32°36.7’N, 79°35.0’W | 32 °45.0’N, 79 °51.5’W | 26°35.0’N, 76°50.0’W |
|  |  | Lookout | Morehead City | 1651
|  |  | 34°33.7’N, 76°42.0’W | 34°40.7’N, 76°40.8’W |
|  |  | Mayport | Jacksonville | 1498
|  |  | 30°23.5’N, 81°17.0’W | 30°24.0’N, 81 °21.5’W |

The Windward Passage is the logical way to sail from Panama to ports on the US and Canadian seaboards. The times when the Caribbean section of this route can be sailed comfortably are relatively short due to the prevailing NE winds. Directions as far as the Windward Passage are similar to those described in AN98, which should be referred to for details. There are two alternatives for the continuation of northbound passages: to gain the open ocean through the Caicos Passage (routes AN99A and B), or to take the route through the Outer Bahamas as far as San Salvador Island and go offshore from there (route AN99C).

Boats bound for Chesapeake Bay on route AN99A should set an initial course that stays well to the east of Cape Hatteras so as to pass clear of that dangerous area. From that point boats bound for Chesapeake Bay have a clear run to the waypoint marking the landfall buoy in the approaches to Chesapeake Bay. The suggested landfall for boats approaching the busy port of New York from the south is set at the buoy marking the westernmost shipping channel leading into New York. Boats bound for Newport should make landfall SE of Block Island in the approaches to that historic port.

The only land close to the route to more northern destinations is Bermuda, which will be passed to the west unless the decision is made to stop there to wait for better conditions for the continuation of the passage (route AN99B). For boats bound for St John’s in Newfoundland the landfall waypoint is set off Cape Spear in the approaches to St John’s. For passages to Halifax in Nova Scotia, landfall is made close to a buoy SE of Sambro light at the start of the channel leading into Halifax.

Boats bound for destinations south of Cape Hatteras on route AN99C can either use the Northeast Providence Channel, south of Great Abaco, to reach ports in Southern and Central Florida, or stay offshore of the Abaco Islands to more northern ports. Boats bound for Charleston should make their landfall the waypoint marking the seaward end of the shipping channel leading into the port. For boats bound for either Beaufort or Morehead City the landfall point is set west of Cape Lookout at the entrance into the shipping channel leading into Beaufort Inlet. For boats bound for Jacksonville the Mayport waypoint marks the entrance channel to the St John’s River.

Passages to destinations north of the Bahamas should benefit from mostly favourable winds in late May and June when there is a high percentage of SW and S winds as far as 25°N. North from there, SW winds become even more pronounced as the area of prevailing westerly winds is entered north of Bermuda. The main concern from there on, especially for boats bound for Newfoundland, is the risk of ice, which in early summer may reach as far south as 40°N, although this is quite rare. After June the risk of hurricanes increases, especially in the early part of the passage, but the risk decreases as one moves north. See also AN77 for weather tactics on northbound passages from the Caribbean.

AN100 • Routes in the Caribbean Sea

• | AN101 | Venezuela and ABC Islands to Lesser Antilles | 126
• | AN102 | Venezuela and ABC Islands to Virgin Islands | 127
• | AN103 | Venezuela and ABC Islands to North America | 127
• | AN104 | Venezuela and ABC Islands to Colombia and Panama | 130
• | AN105 | Northbound from the Western Caribbean | 132
• | AN106 | Southern Caribbean to Western Caribbean and Mexico | 134
• | AN107 | Jamaica to Panama | 136
• | AN108 | Jamaica to Central America and Mexico | 137
• | AN109 | Gulf of Mexico and Western Caribbean to Panama | 138

The offshore routes described in this section are under the permanent influence of the trade winds, with a NE component in early winter, at the start of the safe sailing season, the winds gradually veering to E and SE by spring and early summer. When the trade winds blow at their strongest, westbound passages can encounter rough conditions. This is usually the case in winter when the constant easterly winds pile up the water in the western part of the Caribbean Sea with a resulting high swell. Offshore passages should be avoided during the hurricane season, especially during the months of highest frequency, from August to October. Some of the late hurricanes form in the Caribbean Sea and warnings are therefore shorter than when an incipient depression has been tracked across the Atlantic. Hurricanes that develop late in the season pose the greatest risk, and the 2020 season proved that. In early November, Hurricane Eta made landfall in Central America as a category 4 hurricane and caused enormous damage and loss of life Honduras and Nicaragua. It also affected Costa Rica and northern Panama. The same areas were affected a few days later by Hurricane Iota, the latest category 5 hurricane on record in the Atlantic Ocean.

The offshore islands of Venezuela and the ABC Islands are all under the influence of the NE trade winds for most of the year and enjoy similar weather conditions to the southern islands of the Lesser Antilles. A strong current may be experienced when sailing among the ABC Islands, so this should be monitored constantly. The fact that Venezuela and its offshore islands lie to the south of the hurricane belt, while still in the trade wind zone, is the main attraction for those who wish to continue cruising during the summer months when the risk of hurricanes hangs over the rest of the Caribbean. Although most of the southern shores of the Caribbean Sea are outside the hurricane area, very rarely a rogue storm has been known to head that way and heavy swells can be experienced when a hurricane passes further north.

Some of the routes in this section are greatly influenced by local conditions, especially the waters off Venezuela, due to the proximity of the continental landmass of South America. The NE trade winds have a pronounced easterly component along this coast, particularly from March to June. The season of the strongest winds is December to April when the trades blow NE to E. From June to September the winds are lighter and more variable. Closer inshore there is a diurnal alternation of breezes, with a day breeze picking up during the morning, which by mid-afternoon can blow quite strongly. From May to November there are strong southerly squalls, which lose their intensity as they head offshore. In the Maracaibo area, local afternoon squalls called chubascos can blow with up to 50 knots of wind. In the same area, strong winds build up in winter due to the land heating up and drawing the wind inland off the water. In the autumn, hot short blasts called calderatas occasionally blow down the mountains.

AN100 Routes in the Caribbean Sea

• AN101 Venezuela and ABC Islands to Lesser Antilles

BEST TIME: | April, December |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Sailors Guide to the Windward Islands, Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN101A |  |  |  |  |
Porlamar | Margarita E | Dragon NW |  |  |
10°56.0’N, 63°51.0’W | 11°00.0’N, 63°43.0’W | 10°45’N, 61°51’N |  |  |
|  | Diamond SW | Port of Spain W | Port of Spain | 143
|  | 10°39.0’N, 61°46.5.0’N | 10°37.5’N, 61°35.0’W | 10°39.0’N, 61°31.0’W |
Route AN101B |  |  |  |  |
Porlamar | Margarita E | Testigos | Grenada W | St George’s | 141
|  | 11°27.0’N, 63°8.0’W | 12°02.’N, 61°46.0’W | 12°02.8’N, 61°45.2’W |
Route AN101C |  |  |  |  |
Kralendijk | Kralendijk W | Bonaire NW |  |  |
12°09.0’N, 68°16.9’W | 12°08.0’N, 68°20.0’W | 12°14.0’N, 68°27.0’W |  |  |
|  | Bonaire N |  |  |
|  | 12°23.0’N, 68°23.5’W |  |  |
|  | Montserrat S | Antigua S | English Harbour | 491
|  | 16°37.0’N, 62°10.0’N | 16°59.7’N, 61°46.0’W | 17°00.2’N, 61°45.8’W |

Because of the direction of the prevailing wind it is usually better to work your way east between the mainland coast and the offlying islands before setting course for one of the Lesser Antilles. The distance between Venezuela’s Margarita Island and Grenada is only 130 miles. However, rather than beat against the strong wind and equally strong current, it is better to sail as close to the wind as possible and, depending on the direction of the wind, attempt to reach one of the islands further up the chain of the Lesser Antilles. The other alternative is to stay close to the Venezuelan coast and do the entire trip in short stages. Trinidad can be reached in this way and, although the passage to the desired destination may be longer in both time and distance, it will be easier on gear and crew. From Margarita, route AN101A runs parallel to the Venezuelan coastline to the entrance into the Gulf of Paria. From there, the course is altered to SE of Diamond Rock to make landfall at the outer range marker leading into Port of Spain. Once in Trinidad, it will be easier to wait for a good weather window to sail to Grenada and beyond. Boats starting from one of the ABC Islands are faced with the same constraints, but lying further west they may benefit from a better sailing angle.

Towards spring, when there is a better chance of E or SE winds, direct passages to more northerly islands are easier to accomplish, but even then it is better to start off from as far east as possible. This is normally easier at the change of seasons when lighter winds make it possible to gain some easting with the help of the engine. From Bonaire, the easternmost of the ABC Islands, a direct course (AN101C) can be set for any of the Lesser Antilles, Antigua having been chosen as a destination due to its convenient location.

• AN102 Venezuela and ABC Islands to Virgin Islands

BEST TIME: | April to May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to the Virgin Islands, Virgin Anchorages. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN102A |  |  |  |  |
Porlamar | Margarita E | Virgins SW | Thomas SW | Charlotte Amalie | 470
10°56.0’N, 63°51.0’W | 11°00.0’N, 63°43.0’W | 17°55.0’N, 65°15.0’W | 18°18.0’N, 64°56.0’W | 18°19.8’N, 64°55.7’W |
|  |  | Flanagan S |  |
|  |  | 18°18.5’N, 64°39.0’W |  |
|  | Peter W | Virgin Gorda W | Virgin Gorda | 490
|  | 18°21.5’N, 64°37.0’W | 18°27.0’N, 64°26.7’W | 18°27.0’N, 64°26.2’W |
Route AN102B |  |  |  |  |
Kralendijk | Kralendijk W | Bonaire NW |  |  |
12°09.0’N, 68°16.9’W | 12°08.0’N, 68°20.0’W | 12°14.0’N, 68°27.0’W |  |  |
|  | Bonaire N |  |  |
|  | 12°23.0’N, 68°23.5’W |  |  |
|  | Virgins SW | Thomas SW | Charlotte Amalie | 433
|  | Flanagan S |  |  |
|  | Peter W | Virgin Gorda W | Virgin Gorda | 461

This is a difficult passage during the winter months when the trade winds may have too much north in them. From December to April it is usually easier to reach the Virgins by following the suggestion in AN101 to make the necessary easting just north of Venezuela and then sail north in short hops along the chain of islands. For a direct passage it is better to wait until April or early May, when there is a better chance of having the wind from a more favourable direction. From Bonaire, the direct offshore route passes west of St Croix Island to Virgins SW. At that point boats bound for St Thomas turn north, while those bound for the British Virgins continue east through Flanagan Passage and on to their chosen destination.

If it proves too difficult to lay such a direct course for the Virgins, it may be better to make for the Mona Passage to reach the Virgin Islands by sailing along the north coast of Puerto Rico. However, should the prevailing winds make it impossible to lay a course even for the Mona Passage, landfall could be made even further west, along the south coast of Hispaniola, from where it should be possible to work your way east along the coast with the help of a fair inshore current and land breezes.

• AN103 Venezuela and ABC Islands to North America

BEST TIME: | April to May |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4013, US 13 |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Bermuda Discovered, Chesapeake Bay, Cruising Guide to the New England Coast, Cruising Guide to Newfoundland, Cruising Guide to the Nova Scotia Coast.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival Distance
Route AN103A |  |  |  |
Porlamar | Margarita E | Margarita NE |  |
10°56.0’N, 63°51.0’W | 11°00.0’N, 63°43.0W | 11°15.0’N, 63°53.0’W |  |
|  | Hermanos E |  |
|  | 11°46.5’N, 64°17.0’W |  |
Puerto Cruz | Puerto Cruz NW | Puerto Cruz N |  |  |
10°13.0’N, 64°38.8’W | 10°20.0’N, 64°42.0’W | 10°20.0’N, 64°42.0’W |  |  |
|  | Tortuga W |  |  |
|  | 10°54.0.0’N, 65°32.2’W |  |  |
|  | Orchilla E |  |  |
|  | 11°52.0’N, 65°56.0’W |  |  |
|  | Mona SE |  |  |
|  | 17°59.0’N, 67°36.0’W |  |  |
|  | Mona N |  |  |
|  | 18°38.0’N, 67°39.0’W |  |  |
|  | Navidad |  |  |
|  | 20°00.0’N, 68°35.0’W |  |  |
|  | Abaco NE | Charles | Charleston | 1594/1607
|  | 26°35.0’N, 76°50.0’W | 32 °45.0’N, 79°51.5’W | 26°35.0’N, 76°50.0’W |
|  |  | Lookout | Morehead City | 1600/1613
|  |  | 34°33.7’N, 76°42.0’W | 34 °40.7’N, 76°40.8’W |
|  |  | Mayport | Jacksonville | 1552/1565
|  |  | 30°23.5’N, 81°17.0’W | 30°24.0’N, 81°21.5’W |
|  | Hatteras SE |  |  |
|  | 35°09.0’N, 74°45.0’W |  |  |
|  | Chesapeake | Bay | Norfolk X | 1752/1765
|  | 36°42.0’N, 74°48.0’W | 37°02.5’N, 76°04.0’W | 36°58.0’N, 76°22.0’W |
|  |  | New York SE | New York X | 1887/1914
|  |  | 40°7.5’N, 73°21.0’W | 40°42.0’N, 74°0.0’W |
|  |  | Newport S | Newport X | 1887/1929
|  |  | 41°6.5’N, 71°22.0’W | 41°29.0’N, 71°20.0’W |
Route AN103B |  |  |  |  |
Porlamar | Margarita E | Margarita NE |  |  |
|  | Hermanos E |  |  |
Puerto Cruz | Puerto Cruz NW | Puerto Cruz N |  |  |
|  | Tortuga W |  |  |
|  | Orchilla E |  |  |
|  | Mona SE |  |  |
|  | Mona N |  |  |
|  | Navidad |  |  |
|  | [Bermuda S] |  |  |
|  | 32°13.0’N, 64°50.0’W |  |  |
|  | Bermuda SE | Bermuda E | St George’s | 1304/1395
|  | 32°20.5’N, 64°39.0’W | 32°22.0’N, 64°38.0’W | 32 °22.7’N, 64°39.8’W |
|  | Bermuda NE |  |  |
|  | 32°26.5’N, 64°34.0’W |  |  |
|  | Nova | Sambro | Halifax X | 2048/2135
|  | 44°06.0’N, 63°5.0’W | 44°27.0’N, 63°26.5’W | 44°38.0’N, 63°34.0’W |
|  | Terra | Spear | St John’s X | 2337/2476
|  | 46°37.0’N, 52°23.0’W | 47°31.5’N, 52°34.2’W | 47°34.0’N, 52°40.0’W |
Route AN103C |  |  |  |  |
Oranjestad | Aruba W | Aruba NW |  |  |
12 °30.3’N, 70°02.5’W | 12°31.0’N, 70°04.5’W | 12°37.0’N, 70°06.0’W |  |  |
|  | Mona SW |  |  |
|  | 18°00.0’N, 68°08.0’W |  |  |
|  | Engano |  |  |
|  | 18°40.0’N, 68°10.0’W |  |  |
|  | Navidad |  |  |
|  | Abaco NE | Charles | Charleston | 1401
|  |  | Lookout | Morehead City | 1451
|  |  | Mayport | Jacksonville | 1335
|  | Hatteras SE |  |  |
|  | Chesapeake | Bay | Norfolk X | 1603
|  |  | New York SE | New York X | 1752
|  |  | Newport S | Newport X | 1768
Route AN103D |  |  |  |  |
Oranjestad | Aruba W | Aruba NW |  |  |
|  | Mona SW |  |  |
|  | Engano |  |  |
|  | Navidad |  |  |
|  | [Bermuda S] |  |  |
|  | Bermuda SE | Bermuda E | St George’s | 1233
|  | Bermuda NE |  |  |
|  | Nova | Sambro | Halifax X | 1973
|  | Terra | Spear | St John’s X | 2315
Route AN103E |  |  |  |  |
Oranjestad | Aruba W | Gravois |  |  |
|  | 17°57.2’N, 73°53.0’W |  |  |
|  | Navassa E |  |  |
|  | 18°24.0’N, 74°54.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cuba E |  |  |
|  | 20°10.0’N, 73°57.0’W |  |  |
|  | Fraile |  |  |
|  | 20°26.0’N, 74°11.3’W |  |  |
|  | Old S |  |  |
|  | 22°10.5’N, 77°27.5’W |  |  |
|  | Old N |  |  |
|  | 22°51.0’N, 78°45.5’W |  |  |
|  | Santaren | Cut | Miami | 1089
|  | 24°08.0’N, 79°30.0’W | 25°46.0’N, 80°04.5’W | 25°45.8’N, 80°07.9’W |
Route AN103F |  |  |  |  |
Oranjestad | Aruba W | Gravois |  |  |
|  | Navassa E |  |  |
|  | Cuba E |  |  |
|  | Cuba NE | Inagua SW | Matthew |   619
|  | 20°40.0’N, 74°00.0’W | 20°54.0’N, 73°41.0’W | 20°56.0’N, 73 °41.0’W |
|  | Mira |  |  |
|  | 22°05.0’N, 74°24.0’W |  |  |
|  | Crooked |  |  |
|  | 22°53.0’N, 74°34.0’W |  |  |
|  | San Salvador SW | San Salvador W | San Salvador |   807
|  | 23°55.7’N, 74°35.0’W | 24°03.0’N, 74°36.0’W | 24°02.7’N, 74°33.0’W |
|  | San Salvador NW |  |  |
|  | 24°11.5 ‘N, 74°34.5’W |  |  |
|  | Providence NE |  |  |
|  | 25°46.0’N, 76°38.0’W |  |  |
|  | Providence E | Rock | Sandy Point | 1008
|  | 25°49.5’N, 77°15.0’W | 25°59.0’N, 77°25.5’W | 26°01.0’N, 77°24.0’W |
|  |  | Abaco NE | Marsh Harbour | 1021
|  |  | 26°35.0’N, 76°50.0’W | 26 °32.4’N, 77°.04.0’W |
|  | Abaco N |  |  |
|  | 27°05.0’N, 77°30.0’W |  |  |
|  | Abaco NW | Comachee | St Augustine | 1313
|  | 27°31.0’N, 78°43.0’W | 29°55.0’N, 81°05.0’W | 29°55.0’N, 81°14.5’W |
|  |  | Mayport | Jacksonville | 1335

As the predominant direction of the trade winds during the early part of winter is NE, northbound passages should not be attempted too early in the year. The best time for a crossing of the Caribbean Sea is April, when there is a better chance of favourable winds than at other times of the year. For those who intend to sail from Venezuela or the ABC Islands to the USA or Canada, the best season for the northbound passage is spring, when there is a better chance of E or even SE winds. It is best to start this passage from as far east as possible, such as Venezuela’s Margarita Island or Puerto de la Cruz (AN103A and B). For those who have come to the end of a cruise through the ABC Islands, Aruba would make a good point of departure (AN103C and D).

Boats heading for the Mona Passage should allow for the west-setting current during the crossing of the Caribbean Sea. If the wind and current make it impossible to lay Mona Passage and you are swept to the west, landfall should be made on the south coast of Hispaniola and make easting with the help of the current that sets close inshore. On leaving the Mona Passage, those sailing to mainland ports south of Cape Cod can take an offshore route that runs outside the Turks & Caicos as well as the Outer Bahamas. Alternatively it is possible to take a route that reaches the Bahamas and Florida via the Windward Passage and continues to more northern ports either on an offshore route or through the Intracoastal Waterway.

Boats bound for the Windward Passage should set an initial course for Navassa Island, off Hispaniola’s SW extremity. From there, the route turns north towards the Windward Passage and continues via the Old Bahama Channel to Southern Florida (AN103E) or via the Outer Bahamas to more northern destinations (AN103F). Boats bound for ports east of New York may consider a stop in Bermuda. The continuation of passages to destinations on the eastern seaboard of both the USA and Canada is described in more detail in route AN77.

• AN104 Venezuela and ABC Islands to Colombia and Panama

BEST TIME: | December to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Panama Cruising Guide. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN104A |  |  |  |  |
Puerto Cruz | Puerto Cruz NW | Puerto Cruz N |  |  |
10°13.0’N, 64°38.8’W | 10°20.0’N, 64°42.0’W | 10°20.0’N, 64°42.0’W |  |  |
|  | Tortuga W |  |  |
|  | 10°54.0.0’N, 65°32.2’W |  |  |
|  | Roques N |  |  |
|  | 12°10.0.0’N, 66°40.0’W |  |  |
|  | Bonaire N |  |  |
|  | 12°23.0’N, 68°23.5’W |  |  |
|  | Aruba N |  |  |
|  | 12°45.0’N, 70°00.0’W |  |  |
Oranjestad | Aruba W | Gallinas | Santa Marta N | Santa Marta | 705/355
12°30.3’N, 70°02.5’W | 12°31.0’N, 70°04.5’W | 12°55.0’N, 71°38.0’W | 11°20.0’N, 74°10.0’W | 11°14.5’N, 74°13.0’W |
|  | Augusta |  |  |
|  | 11°25.0’N, 75°0.0’W |  |  |
|  | Zamba | Boca | Cartagena | 741/390
|  | 10°50.0’N, 75°28.0’W | 10°23.5’N, 75°35.0’W | 10°23.5’N, 75°34.0’W |
Route AN104B |  |  |  |  |
Puerto Cruz | Puerto Cruz N | Roques N |  |  |
|  | Bonaire N |  |  |
|  | Aruba N |  |  |
Oranjestad | Aruba W | Gallinas |  |  |
|  | Farallones | Cristobal N | Cristobal | 985/634
|  | 9°40.0’N, 79°38.5’W | 9°26.5’N, 79°54.5’W | 9°23.3.0’N, 79°55.0’W |
Route AN104C |  |  |  |  |
Oranjestad | Aruba W | Gallinas | Chichime | Porvenir | 575
|  |  | 9°37.0’N, 78°53.0’W | 9°33.5’N, 78°56.0’W |

Although passages along these routes can be undertaken at any time of the year, as the area to be crossed is just outside the hurricane region, it is probably safer to sail during the intermediate seasons when more favourable conditions can be expected. Puerto la Cruz has been chosen as a port of departure as it has good repair and provisioning facilities to prepare for this long passage. The point of departure is set just north of Cayo Borracha at the start of the shipping channel into Puerto la Cruz. The initial route passes west of Tortuga Island and continues north of all the ABC Islands with potential stops at any of them. Aruba would make a good final stop before the crossing of the Colombian Basin.

The Caribbean coast of Colombia has few cruising attractions, with the notable exception of Santa Marta and Cartagena, both attractive colonial cities with good facilities for visiting boats. Boats leaving from Aruba on route AN104A should set an initial course for Punta Gallinas on the Guajira Peninsula close to the point where Colombian waters are entered. From there the recommended route runs parallel to the Colombian coast to Punta Augusta. Both waypoints are just outside the 1000-metre line where the seas are less rough than further inshore. Having passed Gallinas, and clear of land, boats bound for Santa Marta should alter course to Santa Marta N, then alter course again to pass between Moro Grande Island and the mainland. From there a direct course can be sailed to Marina Santa Marta, located just south of the container port. The marina normally deals with entry formalities.

Boats bound for Cartagena should continue to the waypoint set off Zamba Shallows, which should be passed at a fair distance as they are reported to extend further west than shown on charts. From there, the course can be altered for Salmedina waypoint where a light marks a shoal of that name. The next waypoint is off the sea buoy marking the entrance to the shipping channel leading into the port of Cartagena. The main access channel into Cartagena is Boca Chica, which is used by commercial shipping. Yachts using this channel must contact port control on channels 14 or 16. The narrower Boca Grande is used by yachts. The channel entrance is marked by two buoys but there are no leading marks and entry at night is difficult. The maximum depth of Boca Grande is 2.35 m (7.5 feet). The GPS position of the Boca Grande entrance is reported at 10º23.370’N, 75º34.285’W. Formalities can be completed at one of the two yacht clubs (Club Nautico or Club de Pesca), which should be contacted on channel 16 for docking information.

On leaving Aruba, boats sailing directly to Panama should set a course to pass rapidly into deeper waters. The shallow bank west of Aruba should be avoided as the west-setting offshore current combined with an east-setting inshore current can produce rough and confused seas. The recommended course is well outside the 1000-metre line and thus avoids sailing through the rough seas that occur in the shallower waters closer to land. From Gallinas boats bound directly for the Panama Canal should set a direct course to pass north of Los Farallones, a group of dangerous rocks some 30 miles from the Panama Canal entrance. From there, the course should be altered for Cristobal. Boats leaving Cartagena will sail a course across the Gulf of Darien to Los Farallones and thence to the landfall buoy at the entrance to Cristobal.

Any of these passages can be interrupted in the San Blas Islands, which belong to Panama. Landfall is made just north of Cayos Chichime at the entrance into the San Blas Channel, which leads to Porvenir where entry formalities are completed at the small airport. The arrival time should be timed for daylight hours, preferably morning, as these are dangerous waters to navigate in bad visibility and the precarious anchorage at Porvenir is surrounded by reefs. The onward route to the Panama Canal runs parallel to the mainland coast. Traffic Control should be contacted on channel 12. Traffic lights control the passage through the breakwaters and small boats are advised to keep as close as possible to the sides. On arrival, boats planning to transit the canal should proceed to Shelter Bay Marina, for which advance booking is advisable. See here for detailed instructions concerning entry and transit procedures.

When the trade winds blow at their strongest, this can be a rough passage, which is usually the case in winter, at the height of the trade wind season, when the constant easterly winds pile up the water in the western part of the Caribbean Sea. As on most other routes in the Caribbean Sea, the best conditions are encountered in either April and May, or December. Because the route leaving Aruba crosses an area known for its rough seas, Aruba should not be left in winds over 30 knots, or if there is a forecast of strong winds to come. There is a favourable current all along this passage with sets of 1.5 to 2 knots. The west coast of Colombia and especially the area around Cartagena is affected by a violent southerly wind called chocosono, which can attain speeds of 50 or even 60 knots.

• AN105 Northbound from the Western Caribbean

BEST TIME: | April to May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4013, US 400, 13 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A16b Voyages from the Western Caribbean |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Northern Bahamas, Southern Bahamas, Cruising Guide to Eastern Florida, Cruising Guide to Western Florida, Chesapeake Bay, Bermuda Discovered.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN105A |  |  |  |  |
Livingston | Dulce | Amatique |  |  |
15°49.5’N, 88°44.5’W | 15°51.0’N, 88°44.0’W | 16°00.0’N, 88°38.0’W |  |  |
|  | Barrier SW |  |  |
|  | 16°00.0’N, 88°19.0’W |  |  |
Roatan | Roatan NE | Belize SE | Turneffe SW | Belize City | 306
16°18.0’N, 86°29.0’W | 16°35.0’N, 85°56.0’W | 16°53.0’N, 87°12.5’W | 17°06.0’N, 87°7’W | 17°20.0’N, 88°02.5’W |
|  | Chinchorro |  |  |
|  | 18°36.0’N, 87°04.5’W |  |  |
|  | Cozumel S | Cozumel W | Cozumel | 396
|  | 20°11.0’N, 87°00.0’W | 20°23.5’N, 87°03.0’W | 20°30.0’N, 86°58.5’W |
|  | Yucatan N | Galveston E | Galveston | 979
|  | 21°46.0’N, 86°46.0’W | 29°09.0’N, 94°25.0’W | 29°22.0’N, 94°47.0’W |
Route AN105B |  |  |  |  |
Livingston | Dulce | Amatique |  |  |
|  | Barrier SW |  |  |
|  | Belize SE |  |  |
Roatan | Roatan NE | Yucatan SE |  |  |
|  | 21°40.0’N, 85°08.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cuba NW | Key S | Key West | 663
|  | 22°32.0’N, 84°58.0’W | 24°27.5’N, 81°48.1’W | 24°32.0’N, 81 °48.4’W |
|  |  | Tampa SW | Tampa | 790
|  |  | 27°35.5’N, 82°52.5’W | 27°54.0’N, 82°26.3’W |
|  | Cuba N |  |  |
|  | 23°28.0’N, 83°05.0’W |  |  |
|  | Aligator SE |  |  |
|  | 24°44.0’N, 80°26.0’W |  |  |
|  | Elbow | Cut | Miami | 801
|  | 25°10.0’N, 80°07.0’W | 25°46.0’N, 80°04.5’W | 25°45.8’N, 80°07.9’W |
Route AN105C |  |  |  |  |
Livingston | Dulce | Amatique |  |  |
|  | Barrier SW |  |  |
Roatan | Roatan NE | Honduras N |  |  |
|  | 16°41.0’N, 85°11.0’W |  |  |
|  | Swan S |  |  |
|  | 17°00.0’N, 83°55.0’W |  |  |
|  | Jamaica NW | Montego | Montego Bay | 645/511
|  | 18°28.5’N, 78°14.0’W | 18°29.0’N, 77°57.0’W | 18°28.2’N, 77°55.6’W |
|  | Cuba SE |  |  |
|  | 19°58.0’N, 74°13.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cuba E |  |  |
|  | 20°10.0’N, 73°57.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cuba NE | Inagua SW | Matthew |
|  | 20°40.0’N, 74°00.0’W | 20°54.0’N, 73°41.0’W | 20°56.0’N, 73 °41.0’W | 937/803
|  | Mira |  |  |
|  | 22°05.0’N, 74°24.0’W |  |  |
|  | Crooked |  |  |
|  | 22°53.0’N, 74°34.0’W |  |  |
|  | San Salvador SW | San Salvador W | San Salvador | 1125/991
|  | 23°55.7’N, 74°35.0’W | 24°03.0’N, 74°36.0’W | 24°02.7’N, 74°33.0’W |
|  | San Salvador NW |  |  |
|  | 24°11.5 ‘N, 74°34.5’W |  |  |
|  | Providence NE |  |  |
|  | 25°46.0’N, 76°38.0’W |  |  |
|  | Providence E | Rock | Sandy Point | 1329/1195
|  | 25°49.5’N, 77°15.0’W | 25°59.0’N, 77°25.5’W | 26°01.0’N, 77°24.0’W |
|  | Abaco NE | Man of War | Marsh Harbour | 1339/1205
|  | 26°35.0’N, 76°50.0’W | 26°38.1’N, 77°00.7’W | 26°32.4’N, 77°04.0’W |
|  | Abaco N |  |  |
|  | 27°05.0’N, 77°30.0’W |  |  |
|  | Abaco NW | Comachee | St Augustine | 1631/1497
|  | 27°31.0’N, 78°43.0’W | 29°55.0’N, 81°05.0’W | 29°55.0’N, 81°14.5’W |
|  |  | Mayport | Jacksonville | 1653/1519
|  |  | 30°23.5’N, 81°17.0’W | 30°24.0’N, 81°21.5’W |
|  |  | Lookout | Morehead City | 1776/1639
|  |  | 34°33.7’N, 76°42.0’W | 34°40.7’N, 76°40.8’W |
|  |  | Charles | Charleston | 1720/1586
|  |  | 32°36.7’N, 79°35.0’W | 32 °45.0’N, 79 °51.5’W |
|  | Hatteras SE |  |  |
|  | 35°09.0’N, 74°45.0’W |  |  |
|  | Chesapeake | Bay | Norfolk X | 1964/1830
|  | 36°42.0’N, 74°48.0’W | 37°02.5’N, 76°04.0’W | 36°58.0’N, 76°22.0’W |
Route AN105D |  |  |  |  |
Livingston | Dulce | Amatique |  |  |
|  | Barrier SW |  |  |
|  | Honduras N |  |  |
|  | Swan S |  |  |
|  | Jamaica N |  |  |
|  | Cuba SE |  |  |
|  | Inagua S |  |  |
|  | 20°50.0’N, 73°06.0’W |  |  |
|  | Caicos W |  |  |
|  | 21°30.0’N, 72°44.0’W |  |  |
|  | Caicos NW |  |  |
|  | 22°16.0’N, 72°22.0’W |  |  |
|  | Bermuda S |  |  |
|  | 32°13.0’N, 64°50.0’W |  |  |
|  | Bermuda SE | Bermuda E | St George’s | 1779
|  | 32°20.5’N, 64°39.0’W | 32°22.0’N, 64°38.0’W | 32°22.7’N, 64°39.8’W |
|  | Bermuda NE |  |  |
|  | 32°26.5’N, 64°34.0’W |  |  |
|  | Terra | Spear | St John’s X | 2861
|  | 46°37.0’N, 52°23.0’W | 47°31.5’N, 52°34.2’W | 47°34.0’N, 52°40.0’W |
|  | Nova | Sambro | Halifax X | 2471
|  | 44°0.0’N, 63°5.0’W | 44°27.0’N, 63°26.5’W | 44°38.0’N, 63°34.0’W |

Northbound voyages from the Gulf of Honduras have the choice of reaching their destinations via an inshore route through Belize’s Inside Channel, or an offshore route to either the Yucatan Channel or Windward Passage. The former will be of interest to those who are bound for destinations in Southern Mexico, the Gulf of Mexico or Southern Florida. Boats bound for destinations anywhere from north of Florida to Canada should consider the more direct route AN105D.

The departure point for route AN105A has been set at the mouth of Rio Dulce. Boats leaving from Guanaja or Roatan may join this route just north of the island of Roatan. The route then continues towards the Yucatan Channel with several possible stopping points along the way. A waypoint marks the Chinchorro Reef, which should be passed to the east. Route AN105B follows a similar track but then turns east for destinations in Southern Florida.

Route AN105C follows a track that stays north of Jamaica to reach the Windward Passage. At that point, boats bound for destinations in the Outer Bahamas and Northern Florida turn north. Route AN105D, which follows the same track to the Windward Passage, turns NE to reach the open ocean through the Caicos Passage. Those who are bound for Chesapeake Bay have a choice of the shorter but mostly inshore route AN105C and the offshore route AN105D. See route AN99 for a detailed description of the routes to those northern destinations.

• AN106 Southern Caribbean to Western Caribbean and Mexico

BEST TIME: | December to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Northwest Caribbean, Cruising Guide to Belize and Mexico’s Caribbean Coast. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN106A |  |  |  |  |
Puerto Cruz | Puerto Cruz NW | Puerto Cruz N |  |  |
10°13.0’N, 64°38.8’W | 10°20.0’N, 64°42.0’W | 10°20.0’N, 64°42.0’W |  |  |
|  | Tortuga W |  |  |
|  | 10°54.0.0’N, 65°32.2’W |  |  |
|  | Roques N |  |  |
|  | 12°10.0.0’N, 66°40.0’W |  |  |
|  | Bonaire N |  |  |
|  | 12°23.0’N, 68°23.5’W |  |  |
|  | Aruba N |  |  |
|  | 12°45.0’N, 70°00.0’W |  |  |
|  | Seranilla SE |  |  |
|  | 15°29.0’N, 79°35.5’W |  |  |
|  | Seranilla SW |  |  |
|  | 15°40.0’N, 80°15.0’W |  |  |
|  | Honduras E |  |  |
|  | 16°0.0’N, 81°35.0’W |  |  |
|  | Honduras NE |  |  |
|  | 16°30.0’N, 83°04.0’W |  |  |
|  | Honduras N | Guanaja E | Bonacca | 1308
|  | 16°41.0’N, 85°11.0’W | 16°29.5’N, 85°46.0’W | 16°26.0’N, 85°51.0’W |
|  | Roatan NE | Roatan SE | Roatan | 1349
|  | 16°35.0’N, 85°56.0’W | 16°23.5’N, 86°05.0’W | 16°18.0’N, 86°29.0’W |
|  | Amatique | Dulce | Livingston | 1483
|  | 16°00.0’N, 88°38.0’W | 15°51.0’N, 88°44.0’W | 15°49.5’N, 88°44.5’W |
|  | Barrier SW | Gorda E | Punta Gorda | 1481
|  | 16°00.0’N, 88°19.0’W | 16°05.0’N, 88°42.0’W | 16°05.7’N, 88°47.8’W |
|  |  | East Snake | Placencia | 1517
|  |  | 16°12.5’N, 88°28.0’W | 16°31.0’N, 88°22.0’W |
Route AN106B |  |  |  |  |
Puerto Cruz | Puerto Cruz NW | Puerto Cruz N |  |  |
|  | Tortuga W |  |  |
|  | Bonaire N |  |  |
|  | Aruba N |  |  |
|  | Pedro SW |  |  |
|  | 16°50.0’N, 78°17.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cayman S |  |  |
|  | 38°36.0’N, 09°24.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cozumel S | Cozumel W | Cozumel | 1557
|  | 20°11.0’N, 87°00.0’W | 20°23.5’N, 87°03.0’W | 20°30.0’N, 86 °58.5’W |
|  | Mujeres S | Mujeres W | Isla Mujeres | 1596
|  | 21°11.0’N, 86°42.0’W | 21°14.0’N, 86°45.7’W | 21°15.0’N, 86°45.5’W |
|  | Cayman S |  |  |
|  | Yucatan N | Galveston SE | Galveston | 2131
|  | 21°46.0’N, 86°46.0’W | 29°09.0’N, 94°25.0’W | 29°20.3’N, 94°40.9’W |
Route AN106C |  |  |  |  |
Oranjestad | Aruba W | Navassa W | Morillo | Santiago de Cuba1 |   915
12 °30.3’N, 70°02.5’W | 12°31.0’N, 70°04.5’W | 18°25.0’N, 75°08.0’W | 19°57.0’N, 75°52.0’W | 19 °58.0’N, 75°52.5’W |
|  | Cuba SW |  |  |
|  | 19°33.0’N, 78°00.0’W |  |  |
|  | Brac N |  |  |
|  | 19°57.0’N, 79°41.0’W |  |  |
|  | Yucatan SE |  |  |
|  | 21°40.0’N, 85°08.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cuba NW | Key S | Key West | 1097
|  | 22°32.0’N, 84°58.0’W | 24°27.5’N, 81°48.1’W | 24 °32.0’N, 81 °48.4’W |
|  | Cuba SW |  |  |
|  | Brac S |  |  |
|  | 19°30.0’N, 79°45.0’W |  |  |
|  | Yucatan N | Galveston SE | Galveston | 1852

The direct route from Venezuela to the Western Caribbean, especially for destinations in the Gulf of Honduras, passes so close to the ABC Islands that a stop in at least one of them would hardly entail a detour. Puerto la Cruz makes a good place to prepare for this passage as it has good repair and provisioning facilities. The point of departure is set just north of Cayo Borracha at the start of the shipping channel into Puerto la Cruz. The initial route passes west of Tortuga Island, and stays north of all the ABC Islands. Having passed Aruba, a new course is set to avoid the shallow waters that extend north of the Gulf of Venezuela. From there, the route cuts across the Colombian Basin to pass south of Seranilla Bank and east of Gorda Bank. Having reached the Gulf of Honduras, there is a wide choice of destinations within easy reach, whether in Honduras, Guatemala or Southern Belize. The nearest port of entry into Honduras is Guanaja, one of the Bay Islands, where formalities are completed at Bonacca, a small cay south of Guanaja itself. Those who prefer to sail directly to the larger island of Roatan should set a course to Roatan NE, and then follow the south coast of the island to Roatan Town, known locally as Coxen Hole. This is the main settlement and administrative centre, where formalities are completed in the commercial port. The alternative is to go directly to one of the marinas in the western part of the island and visit the authorities from there.

Guatemala’s main cruising attraction is Rio Dulce and those who wish to proceed nonstop should stay north of both Guanaja and Roatan and make landfall off Cabo Tres Puntas at the entrance into Amatique Bay. From there, a new course will lead past the western end of Ox Tongue Shoal, marked by a light, to the landfall buoy marking the entrance into Rio Dulce. The river has a sandbar at the entrance with a maximum depth of 2.20 m (7.5 ft) at high tide. The entrance should not be negotiated at night as the navigation lights are reported to be unreliable. Advice on the state of the tide and entry procedures may be obtained on channel 68. The port of entry is Livingston, on the north shore of the river, where it may be possible to come alongside the municipal dock. Officials will visit the boat to complete formalities before you are allowed to proceed upstream.

Boats bound for Southern Belize and not stopping in any of the Honduran islands, should set a course for the SW extremity of Belize’s Barrier Reef and thence to the waypoint marking the eastern end of a channel leading to Punta Gorda. This is the southernmost port of entry into Belize and a convenient place to complete formalities. Those who prefer to continue north inside the Barrier Reef should turn north for East Snake Cay. This waypoint is at the southern end of the Inner Channel, a buoyed shipping fairway that leads to Belize City. The small town of Placencia, which is an official port of entry, will be passed on the way.

Boats bound for Southern Mexico and the Gulf (route AN106B) should set a course that avoids the shallow Pedro Bank that extends south of Jamaica. From that point a direct course can be sailed via Cayman S to destinations on the Yucatan Peninsula or the Gulf of Mexico. The route passes close to Grand Cayman with the prospect of a conveniently short detour.

Route AN106C provides the alternative of reaching the Yucatan Channel by way of a detour to Cuba. From Aruba a direct course can be sailed to Navassa Island south of the Windward Passage. From that waypoint there is a clear run to Punta Morillo, at the entrance into the deep bay at the head of which is situated Santiago de Cuba. This is the nearest Cuban port of entry and, as all foreign yachts must clear in at an approved international marina, the small Marina Punta Gorda, on the west side of the bay, is a convenient place to deal with entry formalities for Cuba.

Either directly from Navassa Island or from Santiago de Cuba the route for the Yucatan Channel passes Cuba’s Punta Cruz and continues north of Cayman Brac to destinations in either Southern Mexico or the Gulf.

• AN107 Jamaica to Panama

BEST TIME: | December to May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Panama Cruising Guide. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN107A |  |  |  |  |
Montego Bay | Montego | Jamaica NW |  |  |
18°28.2’N, 77°55.6’W | 18°29.0’N, 77°57.0’W | 18°28.5’N, 78°14.0’W |  |  |
|  | Jamaica W |  |  |
|  | 18°25.0’N, 78°21.0’W |  |  |
|  | Nuevo NE |  |  |
|  | 16°05.0’N, 78°26.0’W |  |  |
|  | Nuevo SE | Cristobal N | Cristobal | 575
|  | 15°45.0’N, 78°22.0’W | 9°26.5’N, 79°54.5’W | 9°23.3’N, 79°55.1’W |
Route AN107B |  |  |  |  |
Kingston | Kingston S | SE Cay |  |  |
17°55.0’N, 76°47.0’W | 17°56.0’N, 76°51.0’W | 17°53.5’N, 76°47.1’W |  |  |
|  | Jamaica S | Cristobal N | Cristobal | 544
|  | 17°03.0’N, 77°08.0’W |  |  |

Depending on whether the passage starts in Western or Eastern Jamaica, the two alternative routes are outlined above. Boats leaving from ports in Western Jamaica having passed Point Negril, at the western extremity of Jamaica, can set a course to pass west of Pedro and New Banks. From that point the recommended route stays east of all dangers all the way to the entrance into the port of Cristobal. A direct route also leads to Panama from Kingston, the capital of Jamaica. The winds will be light while in the lee of the island, but beyond Jamaica’s wind shadow they will rapidly become strong with large seas. The strong winds and high seas experienced on this route for most of the year, combined with a strong west-setting current, call for accurate navigation as the route passes dangerously close to a number of offshore banks. It is imperative to keep well clear of them because of the breaking seas that occur over the shallows. The Colombian islands of Providencia and San Andrés provide an attractive detour along this route, as described in routes AN91D and AN91E.

On both routes, landfall is made at the buoy marking the approaches to the Panama Canal. Boats approaching the Cristobal breakwaters should contact Traffic Control on channel 12. Traffic lights regulate the passage between the breakwaters, but small boats may pass if they keep to the side, both when passing through the breakwaters and in the shipping channels. Boats bound for the San Blas Islands need to make their entry at Porvenir. More details in route AN73.

• AN108 Jamaica to Central America and Mexico

BEST TIME: | December to May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Northwest Caribbean, | Cruising Guide to Belize and Mexico’s Caribbean Coast, Explore Central America Part 1.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN108A |  |  |  |  |
Montego Bay | Montego | Jamaica NW |  |  |
18°28.2’N, 77°55.6’W | 18°29.0’N, 77°57.0’W | 18°28.5’N, 78°14.0’W |  |  |
|  | Swan S |  |  |
|  | 17°00.0’N, 83°55.0’W |  |  |
|  | Honduras N | Guanaja E | Bonacca | 470
|  | 16°41.0’N, 85°11.0’W | 16°29.5’N, 85°46.0’W | 16°26.0’N, 85°51.0’W |
|  | Roatan NE | Roatan SE | Roatan | 512
|  | 16°35.0’N, 85°56.0’W | 16°23.5’N, 86°05.0’W | 16°18.0’N, 86°29.0’W |
|  | Amatique | Dulce | Livingston | 667
|  | 16°00.0’N, 88°38.0’W | 15°51.0’N, 88°44.0’W | 15°49.5’N, 88°44.5’W |
|  | Barrier SW | Gorda E | Punta Gorda | 665
|  | 16°00.0’N, 88°19.0’W | 16°05.0’N, 88°42.0’W | 16°05.7’N, 88°47.8’W |
|  |  | East Snake | Placencia | 701
|  |  | 16°12.5’N, 88°28.0’W | 16°31.0’N, 88°22.0’W |
Route AN108B |  |  |  |  |
Montego Bay | Montego | Jamaica NW | Mauger | Belize City | 595
|  |  | 17°40.0’N, 87°46.0’W | 17°20.0’N, 88°02.5’W |
|  |  | Ambergris | San Pedro | 572
|  |  | 17°57.5’N, 87°50.0’W | 17°56.0’N, 87°56.0’W |
|  | [Cayman NE | Cayman N | Georgetown | 206
|  | 19°22.5’N, 81°05.0’W | 19°24.5’N, 81°19.0’W | 19°23.3’N, 81°20.0’W |
|  | Cayman NW |  |  |
|  | 19°24.3’N, 81°26.0’W] |  |  |
|  | Cozumel S | Cozumel W | Cozumel | 545
|  | 20°10.0’N, 86°56.0’W | 20°23.5’N, 87°03.0’W | 20°30.0’N, 86°58.5’W |
|  | Mujeres S | Mujeres W | Isla Mujeres | 534
|  | 21°11.0’N, 86°42.0’W | 21°14.0’N, 86°45.7’W | 21°15.0’N, 86°45.5’W |

Westbound routes from Jamaica benefit from both good winds and a favourable current during most of the year. The best time for passages along these routes is the transition months of April and May, before the hurricane season, or late November before the onset of winter northers, which may be felt west of Jamaica and can affect weather in the Gulf of Mexico and, to a smaller extent, further south.

Boats leaving from ports in Western Jamaica and bound for the Bay of Islands in Honduras should set a course to pass south of Swan Island to the Honduras N waypoint. Various destinations are within easy reach from this point, whether in Honduras, Guatemala or Belize. The nearest Honduran port of entry is at Guanaja, one of the Bay Islands, where formalities are completed at the main settlement of Bonacca. Those who prefer to sail directly to the larger island of Roatan should set a course to Roatan NE, and then follow the south coast of the island to Roatan Town, known locally as Coxen Hole. This is the main settlement and administrative centre, where formalities are completed in the commercial port. The alternative is to go directly to one of the marinas in the western part of the island and visit the authorities from there.

Guatemala’s main cruising attraction is Rio Dulce, which has a sandbar at the entrance with a maximum depth of 2.20 m (7.5 ft) at high tide. The entrance should not be negotiated at night as the navigation lights are reported to be unreliable. The port of entry is Livingston, on the north shore, where it may be possible to come alongside the municipal dock. Officials will visit the boat to complete formalities before you are allowed to proceed upstream. The southernmost port of entry into Belize is Punta Gorda, on the mainland.

Whether sailing nonstop or planning to visit some places on the way, route AN108B may appeal to anyone bound for the Cayman Islands or Southern Mexico.Those who wish to stop at Grand Cayman should set a course for Grand Cayman’s NE point from where the north coast is followed to the entrance to the Main Channel. Georgetown Port Security must be called on channel 16 on entering Cayman waters for information on where to dock to complete formalities.

From Grand Cayman the route continues to Cozumel and Isla de las Mujeres, both being convenient places to stop and wait for favourable conditions before negotiating the Yucatan Channel.

• AN109 Gulf of Mexico and Western Caribbean to Panama

BEST TIME: | December to May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Panama Cruising Guide. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN109A |  |  |  |  |
Galveston | Galveston SE | Yucatan N |  |  |
29°20.3’N, 94°40.9’W | 29°6.0’N, 94°22.0’W | 21°46.0’N, 86°46.0’W |  |  |
|  | Thunder |  |  |
|  | 16°25.0’N, 81°30.0’W |  |  |
|  | Rosalind SW |  |  |
|  | 15°35.0’N, 81°0.0’W |  |  |
|  | Serrana W |  |  |
|  | 14°15.0’N, 80°42.0’W |  |  |
|  | Roncador W | Cristobal | Cristobal N | 1499
|  | 13°33.0’N, 80°30.0’W | 9°23.3’N, 79°55.1’W | 9°26.5’N, 79°54.5’W |
|  |  | Chichime | Porvenir | 1507
|  |  | 9°37.0’N, 78°53.0’W | 9°33.5’N, 78°56.0’W |
Route AN109B |  |  |  |  |
Key West | Key S |  |  |  |
24 °32.0’N, 81 °48.4’W | 24°27.5’N, 81°48.1’W |  |  |  |
Tampa | Tampa SW | Cuba NW |  |  |
27°54.0’N, 82°26.3’W | 27°35.5’N, 82°52.5’W | 22°32.0’N, 84°58.0’W |  |  |
|  | Yucatan SE |  |  |
|  | 21°40.0’N, 85°8.0’W |  |  |
|  | Thunder |  |  |
|  | Rosalind SW |  |  |
|  | Serrana W |  |  |
|  | Roncador W | Cristobal | Cristobal N | 1080/1222
|  |  | Chichime | Porvenir | 1087/1229
Route AN109C |  |  |  |  |
Cozumel | Cozumel W | Cozumel S |  |  |
20°30.0’N, 86°58.5’W | 20°23.5’N, 87°03.0’W | 20°10.0’N, 86°56.0’W |  |  |
|  | Thunder |  |  |
|  | Rosalind SW |  |  |
|  | Serrana W |  |  |
|  | Roncador W | Cristobal | Cristobal N | 844
|  |  | Chichime | Porvenir | 851
Route AN109D |  |  |  |  |
Livingston | Dulce | Amatique |  |  |
15°49.5’N, 88°44.5’W | 15°51.0’N, 88°44.0’W | 16°00.0’N, 88°38.0’W |  |  |
|  | Roatan NE |  |  |
|  | 16°35.0’N, 85°56.0’W |  |  |
|  | Honduras NE |  |  |
|  | 16°30.0’N, 83°04.0’W |  |  |
|  | Honduras E |  |  |
|  | 16°0.0’N, 81°35.0’W |  |  |
|  | Rosalind SW |  |  |
|  | Serrana W |  |  |
|  | Roncador W | Cristobal | Cristobal N | 847
|  |  | Chichime | Porvenir | 854

Whether starting from a port in the Gulf of Mexico or one of the Western Caribbean countries, passages to Panama are faced with some challenging navigation through an area encumbered with reefs. Weather conditions at the start of the safe season in early winter are usually favourable, with prevailing winds from a NE direction, although the effects of a norther can be sometimes felt as far south as Jamaica. Weather conditions are more pleasant at the end of the safe season, in April and May. With the approach of summer the trade winds tend to veer to E and SE making it easier to sail the first part of the passage past the bulk of Honduras, but the price to pay for that may be a close reach once the route turns south for Panama. As the risk of a late hurricane in November cannot be entirely discounted, those who sail this route should familiarise themselves with the availability of possible hurricane holes such as Grand Cayman or Montego Bay.

A convenient place to prepare for the long passage along route AN109A is Isla de las Mujeres. Whether stopping there or not, a direct course should be set for the waypoint marking a shallow area known as Thunder Knoll, with a minimum depth of 11 m (35 ft). This is also the northern end of the deep channel west of Rosalind Bank. Having reached the southern end of that channel, a direct course can be set to an intermediate waypoint that has been set in the wide channel between Quita Sueño and Serrana Banks, both of which are marked by lights. From there the route continues to the entrance into the port of Cristobal. Boats approaching the breakwaters should contact Traffic Control on channel 12. Traffic lights regulate the passage between the breakwaters, but small boats may pass if they keep to the side, both when passing through the breakwaters and in the shipping channels.

In early winter, boats setting off on this passage from anywhere in the Gulf of Honduras (route AN109D) may be confronted by tougher sailing conditions on account of the contrary winds, currents and swell than boats that have reached the Caribbean Sea via the Yucatan Channel. This route from the Western Caribbean to Panama is a good example of how future sailing plans should influence, and even determine, the choice of your current cruising schedule. If a cruise among the countries bordering on the Gulf of Honduras is to be followed by a voyage to Panama at the start of the following safe season, it would make sense to complete that cruise in Northern Belize or even Cozumel, so as to benefit from a better sailing angle once the time has come to head for Panama. If this is the case, similar directions should be followed as for route AN109A.

The most difficult part of direct passages starting from the Gulf of Honduras will be at the very start as enough easting needs to be made to pass safely to windward of the NE corner of Honduras. If this passage is made in May at the end of the winter season, the winds usually have a SE component making this task easier, and even if you are pushed to the north, this can be corrected later. From the intermediate waypoint Honduras NE the route turns SSE into the deep channel east of Gorda Bank. Having reached Rosalind SW, the route joins route AN109A for the remainder of the distance to Panama.

There are two interesting detours that can be easily incorporated into either of these passages. The Colombian islands of Providencia and San Andrés are close to the southbound route and cruising boats stopping there are always welcome and formalities are simple. More details in routes AN91D and AN91E. The San Blas Islands would require a somewhat longer detour. This autonomous region of Panama is home to the indigenous Guna (Kuna) community, who have maintained a traditional way of life. Formalities are completed at Porvenir.

AN110• Routes from the Bahamas and Florida

• | AN111 | Northbound from Bahamas and Florida | 141
• | AN112 | Florida and Bahamas to Bermuda and Azores | 143
• | AN113 | Florida and Bahamas to Eastern Caribbean | 144
• | AN114 | Florida and Bahamas to Panama | 146
• | AN115 | Florida and Bahamas to Western Caribbean | 148

The low-lying islands of the Bahamas and their associated banks and reef areas offer a wide choice of anchorages, especially to shallow-drafted craft. Although visited by a large number of boats, very few have come from afar, as the Bahamas do not lie close to the established cruising routes. The vast majority of visitors are from the neighbouring US mainland with a sprinkling of Canadian yachts.

The climate is generally pleasant with the prevailing winds being from NE to SE as the trade wind belt extends as far as the Bahamas for most of the year. Northers interrupt the NE trade winds with regularity during winter and typically start with the wind veering to the S and SW. When the cold front arrives, the wind suddenly shifts to the NW, then N and usually blows itself out in the NE. After a while, the winds return from their usual direction. In midwinter, the cycle can take several days, in spring only 24 hours. Most northers are dry, although on occasions they can be accompanied by rain and thunder squalls. However, they very rarely bring winds over 30 knots and mainly the more northerly islands are affected by this winter phenomenon.

Summer weather starts around May, after the last norther has blown itself out, and lasts until November.

AN110 Routes from the Bahamas and Florida

The trade winds are more SE in summer, and the majority of summer winds in the Bahamas blow from E or SE. During August and September there can be periods of calms, especially at night. The balmy summer weather can be interrupted occasionally by an easterly wave, a trough of low pressure associated with the trade wind belt. This is usually accompanied by showers and high humidity. Sometimes easterly waves can degenerate into tropical depressions and even hurricanes. May to October are the wettest months and rainy squalls occur during this season.

The hurricane season is from June to November, although usually in early summer hurricanes pass to the south and west of the Bahamas. The most dangerous months are August to October, but hurricanes have been recorded as early as May and as late as December. The Bahamas have one of the highest frequencies of hurricanes in the North Atlantic, as they are in the path of hurricanes generated in both the Atlantic and the Caribbean.

In Florida the prevailing winds are E and SE, but they become more variable further up the coast, where they tend to be more SW. Thunderstorms are more common in summer, although gale force winds are rare. Hurricanes can affect almost the entire US eastern seaboard, those arising in the Atlantic usually approaching from the E and SE, whereas tropical storms generated in the Caribbean Sea come from the south. The whole area is affected by weather conditions on the North American landmass and the semi-permanent anticyclone stationed there. As its pressure rises, it develops into a norther, a N and NW flow of cold air that can blow hard for several days. Gales occur in winter as depressions move across the southern states eastward into the Atlantic. North of Florida these fronts bring strong SW gales, the wind veering W or NW behind the depression.

• AN111 Northbound from Bahamas and Florida

BEST TIME: | April to May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4013, US 13 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Chesapeake Bay, Cruising Guide to the New England Coast, Cruising Guide to Newfoundland, Cruising Guide to the Nova Scotia Coast.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN111A |  |  |  |  |
Miami | Cut |  |  |  |
25°45.8’N, 80°07.9’W | 25°46.0’N, 80°04.5’W |  |  |  |
Fort Lauderdale | Everglades |  |  |  |
26°05.6’N, 80°06.5’W | 26°05.5’N, 80°04.0’W | Bahamas NW | Comachee | St Augustine | 287/267
|  | 27°29.0’N, 79°30.0’W | 29°55.0’N, 81°05.0’W | 29°55.0’N, 81°14.5’W |
|  |  | Mayport | Jacksonville | 313/293
|  |  | 30°23.5’N, 81°17.0’W | 30°24.0’N, 81°21.5’W |
|  |  | Charles | Charleston | 434/415
|  |  | 32°36.7’N, 79°35.0’W | 32 °45.0’N, 79 °51.5’W |
|  |  | Lookout | Morehead City | 566/548
|  |  | 34°33.7’N, 76°42.0’W | 34°40.7’N, 76°40.8’W |
|  | Hatteras SE |  |  |
|  | 35°09.0’N, 74°45.0’W |  |  |
|  | Chesapeake | Bay | Norfolk X | 802/784
|  | 36°42.0’N, 74°48.0’W | 37°02.5’N, 76°04.0’W | 36°58.0’N, 76°22.0’W |
|  |  | New York SE | New York X | 985/967
|  |  | 40°07.5’N, 73°21.0’W | 40°42.0’N, 74°0.0’W |
|  |  | Newport S | Newport X | 1048/1030
|  |  | 41°06.5’N, 71°22.0’W | 41°29.0’N, 71°20.0’W |
|  | Nova | Sambro | Halifax X | 1418/1399
|  | 44°06.0’N, 63°5.0’W | 44°27.0’N, 63°26.5’W | 44°38.0’N, 63°34.0’W |
|  | Terra | Spear | St John’s X | 1977/1959
|  | 46°37.0’N, 52°23.0’W | 47°31.5’N, 52°34.2’W | 47°34.0’N, 52°40.0’W |
Route AN111B |  |  |  |  |
Miami | Cut |  |  |  |
Fort Lauderdale | Everglades | Providence NW |  |  |
|  | 26°13.0’N, 79°09.7’W |  |  |
|  | Providence E |  |  |
|  | 25°49.5’N, 77°15.0’W |  |  |
|  | Providence NE |  |  |
|  | 25°46.0’N, 76°38.0’W |  |  |
|  | Hatteras SE |  |  |
|  | Chesapeake | Bay | Norfolk X | 952/934
|  |  | New York SE | New York X | 1135/1117
|  |  | Newport S | Newport X | 1198/1180
|  | Nova | Sambro | Halifax X | 1568/1549
|  | Terra | Spear | St John’s X | 2127/2109
Route AN111C |  |  |  |  |
San Salvador | San Salvador NW | Hatteras SE |  |  |
24°02.7’N, 74°33.0’W | 24°11.5 ‘N, 74°34.5’W | Chesapeake | Bay | Norfolk X | 839
|  |  | New York SE | New York X | 1016
|  |  | Newport S | Newport X | 1060
|  | Nova | Sambro | Halifax X | 1366
|  | Terra | Spear | St John’s X | 1787

Although there is a steady movement of boats between the Bahamas and Florida throughout the year, offshore passages to more northern states are mostly restricted to spring and early summer. This is the time when boats that have passed the winter in the tropics return home. However, even at the best of times, some people prefer to forgo the attractions of a quick offshore passage and instead take the Intracoastal Waterway.

The best time for an offshore passage, especially for ports north of Chesapeake Bay, is in spring and early summer, when the chances of favourable winds are highest and there is little or no danger of either late winter northers or early hurricanes. The latter danger increases with the approach of summer, but offshore passages may be feasible even then provided you leave with a favourable long-term forecast. A stop in Bermuda is not recommended, except perhaps for boats bound for Canadian ports.

Route AN111A runs parallel to the mainland coast following a mostly inshore course. Because of the favourable set of the Gulf Stream, the route should use this advantage to the maximum. However, if there is a likelihood of strong northerly winds, it is better to forgo it and wait for better conditions, or sail a more offshore route if leaving from the Bahamas or Northern Florida. Those planning to leave on an offshore passage from the Bahamas should make their way through the Northwest and Northeast Providence Channels to reach the open ocean (AN111B). Boats bound for ports south of Cape Hatteras can set a direct course for their destination, whereas for boats bound for more northern ports an intermediate waypoint has been set east of Cape Hatteras. From there, boats bound for Chesapeake Bay have a clear run to the landfall buoy in the approaches to Chesapeake Bay. The suggested landfall for boats approaching the busy port of New York from the south has been set at the buoy marking the westernmost shipping channel leading into New York. Boats bound for Newport should make landfall SE of Block Island in the approaches to that historic port.

In May and June, passages to more northern destinations should benefit from mostly southerly winds as far as 35°N where SW and W winds become more pronounced as the area of prevailing westerly winds is reached. The main concern from there on, especially for boats bound for Newfoundland, is the risk of ice, which in early summer may reach as far south as 40°N, although this is quite rare. For boats bound for Halifax in Nova Scotia landfall is made SE of Sambro light at the start of the channel leading into Halifax. For boats bound for St John’s in Newfoundland the landfall waypoint has been set off Cape Spear in the approaches to St John’s.

• AN112 Florida and Bahamas to Bermuda and Azores

BEST TIME: | April to mid-May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 13 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Bermuda Discovered. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS; |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN112A |  |  |  |  |
Miami | Cut |  |  |  |
25°45.8’N, 80°07.9’W | 25°46.0’N, 80°04.5’W |  |  |  |
Fort Lauderdale | Everglades |  |  |  |
26°05.6’N, 80°06.5’W | 26°05.5’N, 80°04.0’W | Bahamas NW |  |  |
|  | 27°29.0’N, 79°30.0’W |  |  |
|  | Bermuda S |  |  |
|  | 32°13.0’N, 64°50.0’W |  |  |
|  | Bermuda SE | Bermuda E | St George’s | 937/919
|  | 32°20.5’N, 64°39.0’W | 32°22.0’N, 64°38.0’W | 32 °22.7’N, 64°39.8’W |
Route AN112B |  |  |  |  |
Miami | Cut |  |  |  |
Fort Lauderdale | Everglades | Providence NW |  |  |
|  | 26°13.0’N, 79°09.7’W |  |  |
|  | Providence E |  |  |
|  | 25°49.5’N, 77°15.0’W |  |  |
|  | Providence NE |  |  |
|  | 25°46.0’N, 76°38.0’W |  |  |
|  | Bermuda S |  |  |
|  | Bermuda SE | Bermuda E | St George’s | 945/937
Route AN112C |  |  |  |  |
San Salvador | San Salvador NW | Bermuda S |  |  |
24°02.7’N, 74°33.0’W | 24°11.5’N, 74°34.5’W | Bermuda SE | Bermuda E | St George’s | 727
Route AN112D |  |  |  |  |
Miami | Cut | Bahamas NW |  |  |
|  | Flores SW | Flores SE | Lajes | 2680
|  | 39°20.5’N, 31°17.0’W | 39°21.8’N, 31°09.7’W | 39°22.8’N, 31°09.9’W |
|  | Faial N |  |  |
|  | 38°40.0’N, 28°42.0’W |  |  |
|  | Faial NE | Faial E | Horta | 2766
|  | 38°36.0’N, 28°35.0’W | 38°32.5’N, 28°35.5’W | 38°32.1’N, 28°37.0’W |

Whether bound for Bermuda or all the way across the Atlantic to the Azores, the recommended time for this passage is late spring, when the chances of favourable conditions are better than at any other time of the year. The timing suits most people’s plans as this route is sailed mostly by boats that have spent the winter in Florida and are using Bermuda as a convenient point before continuing towards the Azores, Northern Europe, the Mediterranean or Canada. The prevailing winds in early summer are SW, which, added to the favourable Gulf Stream, can make for a speedy start to the passage. The Miami office of NOAA issues regular Gulf Stream flow charts from where the latest information on this can be obtained. Provided there is no forecast of a late norther, the Gulf Stream can be ridden for a while, but sooner rather than later the direct course for Bermuda must take priority.

Whether the open ocean is reached at Bahamas NW or through the Northeast Providence Channel, a direct course can be set for Bermuda. Town Cut leads into St George’s Harbour, the official port of entry into Bermuda. The narrow Town Cut, although well buoyed and lit, should not be attempted at night by those unfamiliar with the area. Arriving boats must contact Bermuda Radio prior to making landfall and give an ETA. The first contact should be attempted when 30 miles from the island. The station is on call 24 hours on 2182 kHz, 4125 kHz, and VHF channels 16 and 27. A Yacht Pre-Arrival Information Questionnaire needs to be completed online at http://www.marops.bm/of_visitingyacht.aspx. Arriving boats should proceed to the Customs dock located on the NE corner of Ordnance Island. Yachts must be moored in front of the building for clearing both in and out.

The SW winds experienced at the start of this passage may become SE further offshore and occasionally these can last as far as Bermuda. If the passage is made early in the winter season, there is a real possibility of encountering strong northerly winds, in which case one should try to move out of the Gulf Stream as quickly as possible. Later in the season there is the danger of tropical storms and, even if they do not develop into fully fledged hurricanes, depressions, which form over the Bahamas or even further south, usually bringing squally weather and rough seas. Late spring is also the best time for a direct passage to the Azores. Refer to route AN125 for further details on weather and arrival in the Azores.

• AN113 Florida and Bahamas to Eastern Caribbean

BEST TIME: | December to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A2a Voyages to the | Eastern Caribbean |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Gentleman’s Guide to Passages South, Cruising Guide to the Virgin Islands, Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands, Sailors Guide to the Windward Islands.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN113A |  |  |  |  |
Miami | Cut |  |  |  |
25°45.8’N, 80°07.9’W | 25°46.0’N, 80°04.5’W |  |  |  |
Fort Lauderdale | Everglades | Providence NW |  |  |
26°05.6’N, 80°06.5’W | 26°05.5’N, 80°04.0’W | 26°13.0’N, 79°09.7’W |  |  |
|  | Providence E |  |  |
|  | 25°49.5’N, 77°15.0’W |  |  |
|  | Providence NE |  |  |
|  | 25°46.0’N, 76°38.0’W |  |  |
|  | Sixtyfive |  |  |
|  | 25°30’N, 65°00’W |  |  |
|  | Virgins N |  |  |
|  | 18°26.0’N, 65°05.0’W |  |  |
|  | Savana N |  |  |
|  | 18°22.0’N, 65°05.0’W |  |  |
|  | Savana S |  |  |
|  | 18°19.5’N, 65°02.5’W |  |  |
|  | Porpoise | Thomas SW | Charlotte Amalie | 993/986
|  | 18°18.3’N, 64°59.0’W | 18°18.0’N, 64°56.0’W | 18°19.8’N, 64°55.7’W |
Route AN113B |  |  |  |  |
Miami | Cut |  |  |  |
Fort Lauderdale | Everglades | Providence NW |  |  |
|  | Providence E |  |  |
|  | Providence NE |  |  |
|  | Sixtyfour |  |  |
|  | 25°30’N, 64°00’W |  |  |
|  | Virgins NE | Virgin Gorda W | Virgin Gorda | 1018/1010
|  | 18°30.0’N, 64°29.5’W | 18°27.0’N, 64°26.7’W | 18°27.0’N, 64°26.2’W |
|  | Scrub E |  |  |
|  | 18°28.0’N, 64°29.7’W |  |  |
|  | Beef S | Tortola S | Road Harbour | 1013/1008
|  | 18°25.5’N, 64°31.0’W | 18°24.3’N, 64°35.0’W | 18°24.8’N, 64°36.3’W |
Route AN113C |  |  |  |  |
Miami | Cut |  |  |  |
Fort Lauderdale | Everglades | Providence NW |  |  |
|  | Providence E |  |  |
|  | Providence NE |  |  |
|  | Sixtythree |  |  |
|  | 25°30’N, 63°00’W |  |  |
|  | Sombrero W |  |  |
|  | 18°36.0’N, 63°36.0’W |  |  |
|  | West |  |  |
|  | 18°17.0’N, 63°18.0’W |  |  |
|  | Anguilla W | Martin W | St Martin | 1095/1087
|  | 18°09.5’N, 63°12.0’W | 18°06.0’N, 63°08.0’W | 18°05.0’N, 63 °06.0’W |
Route AN113D |  |  |  |  |
San Salvador | San Salvador SW | San Salvador SE |  |  |
24°02.7’N, 74°33.0’W | 23°55.7’N, 74°36.5’W | 23°54.5’N, 74°28.0’W |  |  |
|  | Sixtyfour |  |  |
|  | Virgins N |  |  |
|  | Savana N |  |  |
|  | Savana S |  |  |
|  | Porpoise | Thomas SW | Charlotte Amalie | 648
Route AN113E |  |  |  |  |
San Salvador | San Salvador SW | Caicos NW |  |  |
|  | 22°16.0’N, 72°22.0’W |  |  |
|  | Caicos W |  |  |
|  | 21°30.0’N, 72°44.0’W |  |  |
|  | Isabela | Luperón N | Luperón | 354
|  | 19°57.0’N, 71°00.0’W | 19°55.2’N, 70°56.5’W | 19 °55.0’N, 70°56.0’W |
|  | Patilla |  |  |
|  | 19°56.0’N, 70°50.0’W |  |  |
|  | Frances |  |  |
|  | 19°45.0’N, 69°53.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cabron | Samaná E | Samaná | 565
|  | 19°24.0’N, 69°10.0’W | 19°07.5’N, 68°58.0’W | 19°11.0’N, 69°21.0’W |
|  | Engano |  |  |
|  | 18°40.0’N, 68°10.0’W |  |  |
|  | Mona SE |  |  |
|  | 17°59.0’N, 67°36.0’W |  |  |
|  | Rojo |  |  |
|  | 17°45.0’N, 67°12.0’W |  |  |
|  | Nevis |  |  |
|  | 17°3.0’N, 62°36.0’W |  |  |
|  | Antigua SW | Antigua S | English Harbour | 945
|  | 17°00.0’N, 61°55.0’W | 17°00.0’N, 61°55.0’W | 17°00.2’N, 61°45.8’W |

The timing for a direct passage from Florida to the Eastern Caribbean is critical as a summer voyage carries the risk of hurricanes and a winter voyage that of contrary easterly winds as well as northerly storms. Therefore the best time appears to be late November, when the danger of hurricanes is low and winter gales are still rare.

There are two radically different ways to reach the islands of the Eastern Caribbean: to sail an entirely offshore route or to break the long passage into shorter cruising legs. Each alternative has its own attractions and the number of boats doing one or the other is roughly equal. The offshore route has the advantage that it can also be sailed in winter, although it has the distinct disadvantage of strong contrary winds once the trade winds are met. The inshore route entails less arduous sailing against possibly strong contrary winds, but it will take much longer and may end up just as challenging as the offshore version.

The offshore route is more attractive to boats starting from Northern Florida as they can set a direct course that stays clear of the Bahamas. Boats leaving from ports in Southern Florida can join that same offshore route by taking the NW and NE Providence Channels. In both cases the recommended practice is to make one’s easting along latitude 25ºN and only turn south after meridian 65ºW has been crossed, or even later if your port of destination cannot yet be reached on a port tack. In late November and December the trade winds are moderate NE, but may have more east in them and be also stronger after January, so even this offshore route should not be sailed too late in winter.

Having reached the open sea through the NE Providence Channel, the tack should be sailed that makes best easting to a hypothetical waypoint, which has been set on the meridian of the port of destination, where it is hoped that enough easting has been made to be able to turn south.

An alternative way to reach the Eastern Caribbean is by an inter-island route (AN113E) that threads its way through the Bahamas, Turks and Caicos, and the north coast of the Dominican Republic to reach the Caribbean Sea through the Mona Passage. This route has the advantage of sailing mostly a SE course, and also passing close to islands, ports and marinas to stop and wait for favourable conditions.

Another alternative chosen every year by numerous sailors is to sail the distance in short stages. The best tactics to be deployed are outlined in The Gentleman’s Guide to Passages South, which is dedicated to this very route and carries the encouraging subtitle The Thornless Path to Windward. The advice given in that book, and also by others who have sailed that difficult route, is to take one’s time and watch the weather carefully. Even in winter, when strong easterlies are the norm, the frequent fronts provide a respite of calms and light winds. The recommended tactic is to sail ahead of such fronts and then run for shelter as the front approaches. The weather is usually uncomfortable for 12 hours before a frontal passage and for about 24 hours afterwards.

• AN114 Florida and Bahamas to Panama

BEST TIME: | December to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A2d Voyages to Panama |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Panama Cruising Guide. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN114A |  |  |  |  |
Miami | Cut | Elbow |  |  |
25°45.8’N, 80°07.9’W | 25°46.0’N, 80°04.5’W | 25°10.0’N, 80°07.0’W |  |  |
|  | Aligator SE |  |  |
|  | 24°44.0’N, 80°26.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cuba N |  |  |
|  | 23°28.0’N, 83°05.0’W |  |  |
Tampa | Tampa SW |  |  |  |
27°54.0’N, 82°26.3’W | 27°35.5’N, 82°52.5’W |  |  |  |
Key West | Key S |  |  |  |
24°27.5’N, 81°48.1’W | 24°32.0’N, 81°48.4’W | Cuba NW |  |  |
|  | 22°32.0’N, 84°58.0’W |  |  |
|  | Yucatan SE |  |  |
|  | 21°40.0’N, 85°8.0’W |  |  |
|  | Thunder |  |  |
|  | 16°25.0’N, 81°30.0’W |  |  |
|  | Rosalind SW |  |  |
|  | 15°35.0’N, 81°0.0’W |  |  |
|  | Serrana W |  |  |
|  | 14°15.0’N, 80°42.0’W |  |  |
|  | Roncador W | Cristobal N | Cristobal | 1218/1222/1080
|  | 13°33.0’N, 80°30.0’W | 9°26.5’N, 79°54.5’W | 9°23.3’N, 79°55.1’W |
Route AN114B |  |  |  |  |
Miami | Cut | Santaren |  |  |
|  | 24°08.0’N, 79°30.0’W |  |  |
|  | Old N |  |  |
|  | 22°51.0’N, 78°45.5’W |  |  |
|  | Old S |  |  |
|  | 22°10.5’N, 77°27.5’W |  |  |
|  | Fraile |  |  |
|  | 20°26.0’N, 74°11.3’W |  |  |
|  | Cuba E |  |  |
|  | 20°10.0’N, 73°57.0’W |  |  |
|  | Navassa W |  |  |
|  | 18°25.0’N, 75°08.0’W |  |  |
|  | Jamaica SE |  |  |
|  | 17°16.0’N, 75°56.0’W |  |  |
|  | Farallones | Cristobal N | Cristobal | 1280
|  | 9°40.0’N, 79°38.5’W |  |  |
Route AN114C |  |  |  |  |
Jacksonville | Mayport |  |  |  |
30°24.0’N, 81 °21.5’W | 30°23.5’N, 81°17.0’W |  |  |  |
St Augustine | Comachee | Abaco NE |  |  |
29°55.0’N, 81°14.5’W | 29°55.0’N, 81°05.0’W | 26°35.0’N, 76°50.0’W |  |  |
|  | San Salvador NW |  | San Salvador | 530/508
|  | 24°11.5 ‘N, 74°34.5’W |  | 24°02.7’N, 74°33.0’W |
|  | Salvador W |  |  |
|  | 24°03.0’N, 74°36.0’W |  |  |
|  | Crooked |  |  |
|  | 22°53.0’N, 74°34.0’W |  |  |
|  | Mira |  |  |
|  | 22°05.0’N, 74°24.0’W |  |  |
|  | [Inagua SW] |  | Matthew | 732/710
|  | 20°54.0’N, 73°41.0’W |  | 20°56.0’N, 73 °41.0’W |
|  | Cuba NE |  |  |
|  | 20°40.0’N, 74°00.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cuba E |  |  |
|  | Navassa W |  |  |
|  | Jamaica SE |  |  |
|  | Farallones | Cristobal N | Cristobal | 1516/1493

The greatest dilemma faced by anyone leaving on a southbound passage from Florida is whether to sail east or west of Cuba. Boats setting off from Northern Florida should sail route AN114C via the Outer Bahamas and Windward Passage. For boats leaving from Southern Florida, both alternatives have certain attractions and directions are therefore given for both. The route through the Yucatan Channel (AN114A) is somewhat shorter but may be more difficult because of the contrary current, whereas the route via the Windward Passage (AN114B) is easier to navigate once the Caribbean Sea is reached.

Route AN114C is aimed at boats leaving from ports in North Florida as well as the Outer Bahamas to converge with the route from South Florida at the Windward Passage. If a stop in Jamaica is not intended, the recommended route across the Caribbean Sea stays clear of the various banks and shallows. If a more westerly course is sailed, allowance should be made for leeway if passing close to Pedro and New Banks as the current sets towards them.

The winds are favourable along this route throughout winter, the prevailing winds being predominantly NE in early winter and E or SE with the approach of summer. Both the hurricane season and the strong trade winds of winter should be avoided if possbile. In the latter case, boisterous sailing conditions can be predicted with certainty from January to March when the trade winds are at their strongest. This is the reason why southbound passages should be planned for late winter or early spring. In summer the prevailing winds in Florida are from the SE and the weather is rainy with heavy squalls and calm periods. The Gulf of Mexico is one of the areas most affected by hurricanes between June and November. From September to November hurricanes spawned in the Western Caribbean are most likely to pass through the Yucatan Channel and then curve around north and east towards Florida. Tornadoes, waterspouts and squalls are also a feature of the hurricane season. In recent years hurricanes have occurred both in May and November, and some have reached as far as northern Panama, Costa Rica and Honduras, therefore planning a passage along this route too close to the start or end of the hurricane season should be avoided.

• AN115 Florida and Bahamas to Western Caribbean

BEST TIME: | December to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A2c Voyages to the | Western Caribbean |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Northwest Caribbean, Cruising Guide to Belize and Mexico’s Caribbean Coast. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN115A |  |  |  |  |
Miami | Cut | Elbow |  |  |
25°45.8’N, 80 °07.9’W | 25°46.0’N, 80°04.5’W | 25°10.0’N, 80°07.0’W |  |  |
|  | Aligator SE |  |  |
|  | 24°44.0’N, 80°26.0’W |  |  |
Key West | Key S |  |  |  |
24 °27.5’N, 81 °48.1’W | 24°32.0’N, 81°48.4’W |  |  |  |
Tampa | Tampa SW | Cuba NW |  |  |
27°54.0’N, 82°26.3’W | 27°35.5’N, 82°52.5’W | 22°32.0’N, 84°58.0’W |  |  |
|  | Yucatan NW |  |  |
|  | 21°18.0’N, 86°44.0’W |  |  |
|  | Mujeres N |  | Isla Mujeres | 479/341/468
|  | 21°16.0’N, 86°45.7’W |  | 21°15.0’N, 86°45.5’W |
|  | Cozumel N | Cozumel NW | Cozumel | 519/381/522
|  | 20°43.0’N, 86°44.7’W | 20°36.0’N, 86°55’W | 20°30.0’N, 86°58.5’W |
|  | Chinchorro E | Ambergris | San Pedro | 678/540/681
|  | 18°36.0’N, 87°04.5’W | 17°57.5’N, 87°50.0’W | 17°56.0’N, 87°56.0’W |
|  |  | Mauger | Belize City | 711/573/714
|  |  | 17°40.0’N, 87°46.0’W | 17°20.0’N, 88°02.5’W |
Route AN115B |  |  |  |  |
Miami | Cut | Elbow |  |  |
|  | Aligator SE |  |  |
Key West | Key S |  |  |  |
Tampa | Tampa SW | Cuba NW |  |  |
|  | Yucatan SE |  |  |
|  | 21°40.0’N, 85°8.0’W |  |  |
|  | Roatan NE | Guanaja | Bonacca | 821/683/810
|  | 16°35.0’N, 85°56.0’W | 16°29.5’N, 85°46.0’W | 16°26.0’N, 85°51.0’W |
|  |  | Roatan SE | Roatan | 803/665/792
|  |  | 16°23.5’N, 86°05.0’W | 16°18.0’N, 86°29.0’W |
|  | Amatique | Dulce | Livingston | 937/799/926
|  | 16°00.0’N, 88°38.0’W | 15°51.0’N, 88°44.0’W | 15°49.5’N, 88°44.5’W |
|  | Barrier SW | Gorda E | Punta Gorda | 935/797/924
|  | 16°00.0’N, 88°19.0’W | 16°05.0’N, 88°42.0’W | 16°05.7’N, 88°47.8’W |
|  |  | East Snake | Placencia | 971/883/960
|  |  | 16°12.5’N, 88°28.0’W | 16°31.0’N, 88°22.0’W |
Route AN115C |  |  |  |  |
Jacksonville | Mayport |  |  |  |
30°24.0’N, 81°21.5’W | 30°23.5’N, 81°17.0’W |  |  |  |
St Augustine | Comachee | Abaco NE |  |  |
29°55.0’N, 81°14.5’W | 29°55.0’N, 81°05.0’W | 26°35.0’N, 76°50.0’W |  |  |
|  | San Salvador NW |  | San Salvador | 530/508
|  | 24°11.5 ‘N, 74°34.5’W |  | 24°02.7’N, 74°33.0’W |
|  | Salvador W |  |  |
|  | 24°03.0’N, 74°36.0’W |  |  |
|  | Crooked |  |  |
|  | 22°53.0’N, 74°34.0’W |  |  |
|  | Mira |  |  |
|  | 22°05.0’N, 74°24.0’W |  |  |
|  | Inagua SW |  | Matthew | 732/710
|  | 20°54.0’N, 73°41.0’W |  | 20°56.0’N, 73°41.0’W |
|  | Cuba NE |  |  |
|  | 20°40.0’N, 74°00.0’W |  |  |
|  | Joins route AN115D to Western Caribbean at Cuba E |
Route AN115D |  |  |  |  |
Miami | Cut | Santaren |  |  |
|  | 24°08.0’N, 79°30.0’W |  |  |
|  | Old N |  |  |
|  | 22°51.0’N, 78°45.5’W |  |  |
|  | Old S |  |  |
|  | 22°10.5’N, 77°27.5’W |  |  |
|  | Fraile |  |  |
|  | 20°26.0’N, 74°11.3’W |  |  |
|  | Cuba E |  |  |
|  | 20°10.0’N, 73°57.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cuba SE |  |  |
|  | 19°58.0’N, 74°13.0’W |  |  |
|  | Jamaica N | Montego | Montego Bay | 791
|  | 18°33.0’N, 77°56.0’W | 18°29.0’N, 77°57.0’W | 18°28.2’N, 77°55.6’W |
|  | Jamaica NW |  |  |
|  | 18°28.5’N, 78°14.0’W |  |  |
|  | Swan S |  |  |
|  | 17°00.0’N, 83°55.0’W |  |  |
|  | Honduras N |  |  |
|  | 16°41.0’N, 85°11.0’W |  |  |
|  | Roatan NE | Guanaja | Bonacca | 1263
|  |  | Roatan SE | Roatan | 1284
|  | Amatique | Dulce | Livingston | 1418
|  | Barrier SW | Gorda E | Punta Gorda | 1416
|  |  | East Snake | Placencia | 1442

Some sailors use Florida as a convenient springboard to reach destinations in the Western Caribbean, and while this may work out well for some, for others it may prove to be counterproductive. For those sailing from northern states and bound for Central America, getting there via the Bahamas and Windward Passage makes more sense than fighting one’s way past Florida and across the Gulf of Mexico. Boats setting off from Northern Florida are undoubtedly better off sailing through the Outer Bahamas and Windward Passage to reach destinations in the Western Caribbean. The choice is not so easy for boats leaving from Southern Florida, for which both alternatives have certain attractions. Although Mexico itself is more easily reached by a direct route through the Yucatan Channel, a voyage to Belize, Guatemala or Honduras by the same route is shorter but tougher, mainly because of the contrary current. In contrast, the roundabout route via the Windward Passage is considerably longer, but benefits from mostly favourable winds and current, and also offers the chance of several interesting stops en route.

The time of year when the passage is made will have a major bearing on the choice of route. In winter, when strong E and NE winds can be expected in the Old Bahama Channel, a direct route through the Yucatan Channel is to be preferred. However, this may mean waiting until favourable conditions set in. The recommended time to leave is immediately after a norther has blown itself out. The first two routes are aimed at those planning to sail through the Yucatan Channel. To avoid the full strength of the current, which can be as high as 2.5 knots, it is recommended to either sail a route that stays close to the Dry Tortugas, or cross over towards Cuba and follow that country’s NW coast, but without straying into its territorial waters.

Route AN115A should be sailed by those planning to visit destinations in Southern Mexico or Northern Belize. Both Isla de las Mujeres and Cozumel are close to this route. Those who wish to cruise Belize from north to south should continue south past Chinchorro Reef and make their landfall off Ambergris Cay. The San Pedro pass leads to the town of the same name where entry formalities into Belize are completed. San Pedro Yacht Club assists visiting yachts and should be contacted on channel 16 for directions. Those who prefer to sail directly to Belize City should make landfall just north of Mauger Cay. The reef-strewn approaches to Belize City should be approached only in daylight and preferably before noon, so as to have the sun from behind. Eastern Channel is the main pass into Belize City. Upon entering Belize’s territorial waters, all yachts must contact the Belize Port Authority on VHF channel 16 or by email vto@portauthority.bz to give notice of arrival.

Destinations in the Bay of Honduras are best reached through the Windward Passage and continuing south of Cuba and north of Jamaica (AN115C and D). This route can be joined by boats leaving from either South or North Florida. Passages which start from the latter (AN115C) should sail an initial offshore route to the Outer Bahamas and continue south to the Windward Passage. As this route passes close to Jamaica’s north coast an intermediate waypoint has been set NE of Montego Bay. This can be a convenient stop as there is a marina with good repair facilities and also an international airport. Having reached the Gulf of Honduras, there is a wide choice of destinations within easy reach, whether in Honduras, Guatemala or Belize. The nearest port of entry into Honduras is Guanaja, one of the Bay Islands, where formalities are completed at the main settlement of Bonacca. Those who prefer to sail directly to Roatan should set a course to Roatan NE and then follow the south coast of the island to Coxen Hole, the main settlement and administrative centre, where formalities are completed in the commercial port.

Guatemala’s main cruising attraction is Rio Dulce and those who wish to proceed nonstop should stay north of both Guanaja and Roatan and make landfall off Cabo Tres Puntas at the entrance into Amatique Bay. From there, a new course leads to the landfall buoy marking the entrance into Rio Dulce. The river has a sandbar at the entrance with a maximum depth of 2.20 m (7.5 ft) at high tide. The entrance should not be negotiated at night as the navigation lights are reported to be unreliable. The port of entry is Livingston, on the north bank of the river, where it may be possible to come alongside the municipal dock. Officials will visit the boat to complete formalities before being allowed to proceed upstream.

Boats bound for the south of Belize should set a course for the SW extremity of Belize’s Barrier Reef and continue west to the eastern end of a channel leading to Punta Gorda. This is the southernmost port of entry into Belize and a convenient place to complete formalities. Those who prefer to continue north inside the Barrier Reef should use the Inner Channel, a buoyed shipping fairway that leads to Belize City. The small town of Placencia, which is also an official port of entry, will be passed on the way.

Weather conditions are normally favourable on this route, especially in winter, and there is also a favourable west-setting current when sailing along the south coast of Cuba. The hurricane season should be avoided as all countries in this area are affected by tropical storms.

AN120 • Routes from Bermuda

• | AN121 | Bermuda to North America | 152
• | AN122 | Bermuda to Florida and Bahamas | 154
• | AN123 | Bermuda to Northern Europe | 155
• | AN124 | Bermuda to Gibraltar | 156
• | AN125 | Bermuda to Azores | 157
• | AN126 | Bermuda to Eastern Caribbean | 158
• | AN127 | Bermuda to Western Caribbean | 159
• | AN128 | Bermuda to Southern Caribbean and Panama | 160

The Bermuda Islands occupy such a strategic position in the Western Atlantic that even those who are not planning to stop there find it difficult to bypass these attractive islands. Although good protection is assured in its well-sheltered harbours, the approaches to Bermuda are dangerous and a brief look at the chart will explain why this cluster of islands surrounded by reefs was first settled by shipwrecked Englishmen on their way to America. In more recent times a shipping exclusion zone has been declared around Bermuda’s shores, and ships are warned to keep their distance unless they intend to call there. However, with reliable lights and clearly marked channels, the approaches are not too difficult, unless one attempts to make landfall at night or in a southwesterly blow, neither of which is recommended.

Bermuda lies in the region of variable winds that is found north of the trade wind zone and south of the prevailing westerlies. The prevailing direction of the winds is mostly southerly in summer and NW and W in winter. Bermuda’s weather is affected by two main systems, the movement of weather systems over the eastern seaboard of the United States into the Atlantic, and the position of the North Atlantic anticyclone, which often has a ridge of high pressure extending westward. In summer the high is the dominating feature and produces SW winds of around 15 knots. The Gulf Stream also influences the climate, making the water around Bermuda warmer and keeping the winters mild. As a result, Bermuda has a subtropical climate and has the northernmost coral reefs in the world. Bermuda is affected by tropical storms, although most hurricanes pass to the west of Bermuda, very few storms passing directly over the islands. The hurricane season is officially 1 June to 30 November, the greatest frequency occurring between August and October. Studies conducted by the Bermuda Weather Service found that in the last 400 years Bermuda has been affected by devastating storms every six to seven years.

Bermuda is the finishing point of various races from the US east coast, the biannual race from Newport being one of the longest-established offshore races in the world. Most North American cruising sailors, however, use Bermuda as a convenient springboard either to the Caribbean or to the Azores and Europe. The routes radiating from Bermuda are very seasonal, the spring, from April to June, being busy with boats returning home from the Caribbean to either North America or Europe. Also at this time of year, Bermuda is visited by US boats bound for Europe. In recent years the number of European boats calling at Bermuda on their way home has shown a significant reduction as more boats now sail directly from the Eastern Caribbean to the Azores. The summer sees mainly two-way traffic from the mainland as the hurricane season keeps most boats away from the Caribbean, while the autumn brings a new influx of North American boats on their way south.

Those starting their transatlantic passage in Bermuda are faced with a considerable challenge as there are few routes described in this book for which access to up-to-date weather information is of such paramount importance as the route to the Azores. The position of the North Atlantic anticyclone ought to be known and a course chosen accordingly. The old established tactic on leaving Bermuda was to sail first in a NNE or NE direction to reach the area of prevailing westerly winds and make the desired easting with their help before altering course for the Azores. The latest pilot charts seem to contradict the wisdom of this tactic as in late spring and early summer sailing a direct course to the Azores would have a high enough proportion of favourable winds to justify sailing this considerably shorter route. Occasionally, uncommon easterly winds slow down the boats making their way to the Azores. This is due to the Azores High being situated further north than its normal position, allowing easterly winds to make themselves felt as far north as 40ºN.

AN120 Routes from Bermuda

Weather conditions on passages to northern ports on the American mainland are usually a matter of luck as they can be fast and comfortable with southerly winds, or a hard beat if northwesterly winds are generated by a depression passing to the north. Because of the north-setting Gulf Stream, passages to ports south of Cape Hatteras can be a difficult undertaking. Passages to the Eastern Caribbean are best undertaken at the change of seasons, between late November and early December.

• AN121 Bermuda to North America

BEST TIME: | April to May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4013, US 13 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A10b Voyages via Bermuda |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Guide to the New England Coast, Chesapeake Bay, Cruising Guide to the Nova Scotia Coast, Cruising Guide to Newfoundland
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN121 A |  |  |  |  |
St George’s | Bermuda E | Bermuda NE |  |  |
32 °22.7’N, 64°39.8’W | 32°22.0’N, 64°38.0’W | 32°26.5’N, 64°34.0’W |  |  |
|  | Terra | Spear | St John’s X | 1085
|  | 46°37.0’N, 52°23.0’W | 47°31.5’N, 52°34.2’W | 47°34.0’N, 52°40.0’W |
|  | Nova | Sambro | Halifax X | 748
|  | 44°06.0’N, 63°5.0’W | 44°27.0’N, 63°26.5’W | 44°38.0’N, 63°34.0’W |
Route AN121B |  |  |  |  |
St George’s | Bermuda E | Bermuda NE |  |  |
|  | Bermuda NW | Newport S | Newport X | 643
|  | 32°34.0’N, 64°52.0’W | 41°06.5’N, 71°22.0’W | 41°29.0’N, 71°20.0’W |
|  |  | New York SE | New York X | 683
|  |  | 40°07.5’N, 73°21.0’W | 40°42.0’N, 74°0.0’W |
|  | Chesapeake | Bay | Norfolk X | 654
|  | 36°42.0’N, 74°48.0’W | 37°02.5’N, 76°04.0’W | 36°58.0’N, 76°22.0’W |
Route AN121C |  |  |  |  |
St George’s | Bermuda E | Bermuda SE |  |  |
|  | 32°20.5’N, 64°39.0’W |  |  |
|  | Bermuda S | Lookout | Morehead City | 632
|  | 32°13.0’N, 64°50.0’W | 34°33.7’N, 76°42.0’W | 34°40.7’N, 76°40.8’W |
|  |  | Charles | Charleston | 779
|  |  | 32°36.7’N, 79°35.0’W | 32 °45.0’N, 79°51.5’W |
|  |  | Mayport | Jacksonville | 871
|  |  | 30°23.5’N, 81°17.0’W | 30°24.0’N, 81°21.5’W |

There are several factors that must be taken into account when planning a passage from southern ports to Canada. The best sailing conditions would be encountered in summer but this is also the hurricane season. An added complication is that passages to Newfoundland can be affected by ice at the beginning of summer. Fog is yet another consideration on these routes and these factors limit northbound passages to the high summer. Favourable conditions can be expected at this time because of a high proportion of SW winds. Earlier passages, at the end of May or in June, may also benefit from favourable winds, but a careful eye should be kept on the weather and should there be a gale warning, the course should be altered to avoid being caught on one of the banks where the strong wind will generate very rough seas. Similar action should be taken if there is a threat of a northerly gale while riding the Gulf Stream. Icebergs continue to be a risk even at the height of summer, as icebergs have been encountered in Newfoundland waters as late as August. As some of the smaller icebergs may not show up on radar, this should be borne in mind when sailing in bad visibility. While the risk of ice decreases after June, that of hurricanes increases, especially in the early part of the passage.

For boats bound for St John’s the landfall waypoint has been set off Cape Spear in the approaches to St John’s. A direct offshore route also leads to Nova Scotia, with the recommended waypoint marking the landfall buoy SE of Sambro light at the start of the channel leading into Halifax.

Summer passages to most ports on the US east coast normally benefit from pleasant weather and the only thing to spoil the picture is the risk of tropical storms whose tracks occasionally pass between Bermuda and the mainland. Such storms, however, are kept under such close observation from the moment they start forming that warnings are usually given long before they are likely to strike. Nevertheless, passages during the months with the highest frequency of hurricanes, from August to the end of October, should be avoided. The safest period for passages, in both directions, is late spring and early summer. The high frequency of SW winds in summer should provide good sailing conditions to most ports lying north of Cape Hatteras, but this is rarely the case. Even in May and June, the weather can often turn quite rough and the worst conditions have been recorded in the area of the Gulf Stream. The passage of cold fronts from continental America produces unsettled weather, which is often accompanied by violent rain squalls. This can be particularly dangerous in the Gulf Stream, when a strong wind blows against the equally strong current, and therefore the Gulf Stream should always be crossed at right angles to minimise the time spent in it. A ride in the Gulf Stream should only be attempted in settled weather.

Passages to ports south of Cape Hatteras can be quite daunting in May and June because of the high proportion of SW winds combined with the contrary set of the Gulf Stream. Better conditions may be encountered in late November but crossing the Gulf Stream in strong northerly winds should be avoided. A possible solution is to postpone crossing the Gulf Stream by sailing instead to the Bahamas and, by approaching Florida from the east, the time for the crossing of the Gulf Steam can be more easily chosen and it will also be much shorter.

Because of the multitude of destinations and resulting routes, only landfall waypoints for a number of the main destinations have been given. For boats bound for Chesapeake Bay the landfall waypoint has been set close to the entrance into the south channel leading into Chesapeake Bay. Boats bound for New York should make landfall at the buoy marking the westernmost shipping channel leading into New York. Finally, those bound for Newport should set a course to pass SE of Block Island in the approaches to that attractive port.

For boats bound for either Beaufort or Morehead City the landfall point is set west of Cape Lookout at the entrance into the shipping channel leading into Beaufort Inlet. Boats bound for Charleston should make their landfall at the seaward end of the shipping channel leading into the port.

Those planning a summer cruise along the US seaboard should consider making their first landfall in a place like New York or Newport, cruise as far north and east as possible and then work their way gradually south. This tactic will allow them to avoid the hurricane season and benefit most from the warm weather.

All international arrivals (both foreign and US yachts) must file a Notice of Arrival (NOA) with the U.S. Coast Guard National Vessel Movement Center (NVMC), at least 96 hours prior to arrival. Email: sans@nvmc.uscg. gov. Tel.: +1-800-708-9823, + 1-304-264-2502. All foreign nationals, except Canadians, must be in possession of a US visa.

• AN122 Bermuda to Florida and Bahamas

BEST TIME: | December to May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Northern Bahamas, Southern Bahamas, Cruising Guide to Eastern Florida, Cruising Guide to Western Florida.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN122A |  |  |  |  |
St George’s | Bermuda E | Bermuda SE |  |  |
32 °22.7’N, 64°39.8’W | 32°22.0’N, 64°38.0’W | 32°20.5’N, 64°39.0’W |  |  |
|  | Bermuda S | Mayport | Jacksonville | 871
|  | 32°13.0’N, 64°50.0’W | 30°23.5’N, 81°17.0’W | 30°24.0’N, 81°21.5’W |
|  |  | Comachee | St Augustine | 872
|  |  | 29°55.0’N, 81°05.0’W | 29°55.0’N, 81°14.5’W |
Route AN122B |  |  |  |  |
St George’s | Bermuda E | Bermuda SE |  |  |
|  | Bermuda S |  |  |
|  | Providence NE |  |  |
|  | 25°46.0’N, 76°38.0’W |  |  |
|  | Providence E | Rock | Sandy Point | 798
|  | 25°49.5’N, 77°15.0’W | 25°59.0’N, 77°25.5’W | 26°01.0’N, 77°24.0’W |
|  | Providence NW | Everglades | Fort Lauderdale | 920
|  | 26°13.0’N, 79°09.7’W | 26°05.5’N, 80°04.0’W | 26°05.6’N, 80°06.5’W |
|  |  | Cut | Miami | 940
|  |  | 25°46.0’N, 80°04.5’W | 25°45.8’N, 80°07.9’W |
Route AN122C |  |  |  |  |
St George’s | Bermuda E | Bermuda SE |  |  |
|  | Bermuda S | San Salvador NW | San Salvador | 731
|  |  | 24°11.5 ‘N, 74°34.5’W | 24 °02.7’N, 74 °33.0’W |

Planning an offshore passage to Florida via Bermuda can be a challenging task to those who wish to make their way south for the winter by an offshore route, rather than take the Intracoastal Waterway. As a direct passage may be hard to accomplish on account of the prevailing SW winds and the contrary direction of the Gulf Stream, the task can be eased by making a detour to the Bahamas. This could be an attractive alternative as it would allow leaving the mainland before the onset of winter weather and waiting in Bermuda for favourable conditions for the continuation of the voyage. Those sailing this route have a choice of making landfall south of Great Abaco, and using the Northeast and Northwest Providence Channels to reach their destination. An alternative for those who may wish to see more of the Bahamas is to make landfall at San Salvador in the Outer Bahamas. This route should also be sailed by boats bound for either Panama or the Western Caribbean (see also AN147 and AN148).

• AN123 Bermuda to Northern Europe

BEST TIME: | May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4011, US 11 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A10b Voyages via Bermuda. |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Almanac, Shell Channel Pilot, Irish Sea Pilot, Norwegian Cruising Guide. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN123A |  |  |  |  |
St George’s | Bermuda E | Banks SE |  |  |
32°22.7’N, 64°39.8’W | 32°22.0’N, 64°38.0’W | 40°00.0’N, 40°00.0’W |  |  |
|  | Bishop | Lizard | Falmouth | 2897
|  | 49°48.0’N, 6°26.4’W | 49°55.0’N, 5°10.0’W | 50°08.0’N, 5°02.0’W |
|  |  | Brest SW | Brest | 2894
|  |  | 48°03.0’N, 4°59.7’W | 48°21.0’N, 4°29.0’W |
Route AN123B |  |  |  |  |
St George’s | Bermuda E | [Banks SE] |  |  |
|  | Fastnet S |  |  |
|  | 51°17.0’N, 09°36.0’W |  |  |
|  | Kinsale |  |  |
|  | 51°35.0’N, 8°31.5’W |  |  |
|  | Cork SW | Roche | Crosshaven | 3098
|  | 51°43.0’N, 8°16.0’W | 51°47.25’N, 8°15.6’W | 51°48.6’N, 8°16.2’W |
Route AN123C |  |  |  |  |
St George’s | Bermuda E | [Banks SE] |  |  |
|  | Ireland NW | Artach | Oban X | 2775
|  | 54°24.0’N, 10°29.0’W | 56°05.0’N, 6°35.0’W | 56°24.5’N, 5°29.5’W |
Route AN123D |  |  |  |  |
St George’s | Bermuda E | [Banks SE] |  |  |
|  | Kilda |  |  |
|  | 57°51.0’N, 8°51.0’W |  |  |
|  | Flannan |  |  |
|  | 58°20.0’N, 7°45.0’W |  |  |
|  | Lewis |  |  |
|  | 58°35.0’S, 6°18.0’W |  |  |
|  | Orkneys N | Bergen SW | Bergen X | 3226
|  | 59°28.0’N, 2°56.0’W | 60°07.0’N, 4°55.0’E | 60°24.0’N, 5°19.0’E |
|  | Skagerak W | Kristiansand SW | Kristiansand | 3392
|  | 57°50.0’N, 6°56.0’E | 58°00.0’N, 7°56.0’E | 58°04.8’N, 8°04.2’E |

Nonstop passages to Northern Europe seem to be less popular than sailing there via the Azores, which are so conveniently placed about halfway between Bermuda and Northern Europe to break the long passage. However, the direct route has the advantage over the longer Azores alternative that once the prevailing westerly winds have been found they can usually be held for most of the crossing. Boats bound for the English Channel have a choice of landfalls at either Falmouth in SW England or Brest in France. Those that are bound for destinations in Scotland or Scandinavia have the choice of two routes that avoid the heavy traffic and other hazards that mark the English Channel and the southern part of the North Sea. Route AN123C can be extended from Oban to reach the North Sea via the Caledonian Canal, while the more northern route AN123D goes over the top of Scotland to destinations in Norway or other parts of Scandinavia.

On leaving Bermuda, the recommended tactic is to sail an initial NNE course so as to reach as quickly as possible the area of prevailing westerly winds. To avoid the southern limit of ice, it is recommended that in June latitude 39°N is not passed in the early stages of the passage and that the route should stay as far south as the winds will permit. See route AN79 for details on ice conditions in late spring and early summer. An intermediate point is set at a safe distance off the southern extremity of the Grand Banks. From that point onward the risk of ice is much lower and the course of route AN123A may be set to pass south of the Scilly Isles in the approaches to the English Channel. If weather and ice information is available and the forecasts are favourable, or if SW winds are found right from the start, the great circle route to the English Channel can be joined directly.

The same tactics apply for passages on the northern route AN123B, but once the area of the Grand Banks has been safely passed, a direct course can be sailed to the south coast of Ireland. On route AN123C a waypoint has been set south of Dubh Artach light in the approaches to the Firth of Lorn and the port of Oban. Those intending to reach the North Sea and Scandinavia via the Caledonian Canal can continue through Loch Linhe to Fort William at the entrance to the canal.

Boats bound for the very north of Scotland should sail a course that clears the small islands of Saint Kilda and Boreray in the Outer Hebrides. A new course to the next waypoint will pass west of the Flannan Isles. The next waypoint is set just north of the Butt of Lewis marking the northern extremity of that island. An easterly course passing north of Cape Wrath will lead to the entrance into the Pentland Firth, south of the Orkney Islands. The course will continue due east to Muckle Skerry and reach the North Sea. However, due to the strong tides and difficult navigation on this direct route, route AN123D passing north of the Orkneys should be the preferred option.

• AN124 Bermuda to Gibraltar

BEST TIME: | May to July |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4011, US 11 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A6a Direct Voyages to the Mediterranean. |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Straits Sailing Handbook |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
St George’s | Bermuda E |  |  |  |
32°22.7’N, 64°39.8’W | 32°22.0’N, 64°38.0’ | Vincent SW |  |  |
|  | 37°0.0’N, 9°12.0’W |  |  |
|  | Hoyo |  |  |
|  | 36°04’N, 6°20’ W |  |  |
|  | Tarifa |  |  |
|  | 35°59’N, 5°37’W |  |  |
|  | Acebuche | Gibraltar | Marina Bay Marina | 2951
|  | 36°03’N, 5°25’W | 36°07.5’N, 5°23.0’W | 36°09’N, 5°21’W |
|  |  |  | Queensway Marina | 2950
|  |  |  | 36°08’N, 5°21’W |
|  |  | Europa Point |  | 2953
|  |  | 36°05’N, 5°20.5’W |  |

Boats bound for the Mediterranean have the choice of making a nonstop passage or taking the more popular alternative of breaking the voyage in the Azores. The direct route should follow similar instructions as AN123 so as to make the most of the Atlantic crossing with the help of the prevailing westerly winds. In May and June there is a high proportion of SW winds along this route and a course should be sailed that passes north of the Azores to Cape St Vincent. From there, the course is altered for the Strait of Gibraltar to pass south of Hoyo Bank, at the SW extremity of the shallows off Cape Trafalgar. The next waypoint to make for is south of Tarifa Island by staying inshore of the west-going shipping lane. A course parallel to the Spanish coast will lead into the Bay of Gibraltar and make landfall just west of Gibraltar’s main breakwater from where the two marinas, Queensway and Ocean Village, are within easy reach. Those who wish to proceed nonstop into the Mediterranean should set a course for Europa Point. Eastbound routes from Gibraltar are described here.

• AN125 Bermuda to Azores

BEST TIME: | May to June |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4011, US 11 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A6a Direct Voyages to the Mediterranean |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Islands. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN125A |  |  |  |  |
St George’s | Bermuda E | Flores SW | Flores SE | Lajes | 1677
32°22.7’N, 64°39.8’W | 32°22.0’N, 64°38.0’W | 39°20.5’N, 31°17.0’W | 39°21.8’N, 31°09.7’W | 39°22.8’N, 31°09.9’W |
Route AN125B |  |  |  |  |
St George’s | Bermuda E | Faial SW |  |  |
|  | 38°30.0’N, 28°37.0’W |  |  |
|  | Faial SE |  | Horta | 1802
|  | 38°30.5’N, 28°46.0’W |  | 38°32.1’N, 28°37.0’W |
|  | Faial N |  |  |
|  | 38°40.0’N, 28°42.0’W |  |  |
|  | Faial NE | Faial E | Horta | 1811
|  | 38°36.0’N, 28°35.0’W | 38°32.5’N, 28°35.5’W |  |

The Azores are situated in such a convenient position in mid-Atlantic that very few sailors choose to sail nonstop from Bermuda to continental Europe. In the past, the tactic on leaving Bermuda was to sail initially of NE course until the area of prevailing westerly winds has been reached and then set a direct course for the Azores. The advantage of this longer route is a greater certainty of W or SW winds and a favourable current. The disadvantages are a higher frequency of gales and a colder and wetter passage than along a more southerly route that does not go beyond latitude 38ºN. Opinions are divided as to which is the best course to follow and in fact some people prefer to forgo the chance of favourable winds and, in their attempts to find the most pleasant alternative, follow a rhumb line to the Azores. Indeed, the latest pilot charts for May and June show a high proportion of SW and S winds along a direct route, and hardly any calms. The route skirts the northern contour of the Azores High at its mean location for the months of May and June. Later in summer, when the Azores High is located further north, this tactic is no longer advisable as a direct route would intersect the cell of high pressure and a more NE route should be sailed to avoid the risk of possible calms.

May and June are the best months to make this passage, a later start being preferable if a more northern route is chosen. If this decision is taken, it is best to commit yourself fully to that route and sail almost NNE on leaving Bermuda so as to enter the region of westerlies as soon as possible. After the end of June, the risk of hurricanes becomes increasingly higher in the area around Bermuda and this passage should only be made at such time if absolutely necessary. The risk of hurricanes recedes as one moves east across the Atlantic, although the effects of a hurricane can be felt as far east as the Bay of Biscay. Several hurricanes have affected the Azores in recent years and this should be borne in mind, especially if this passage is made in late summer.

The nearest port of entry is Lajes, on the SE coast of the island of Flores. The landfall waypoint is off Ponta do Ilheus, at the SW extremity of Flores, from where the south coast of the island is followed to Lajes. A small marina operates inside the commercial harbour where entry formalities can be completed.

If bound directly for Horta, which continues to be the favourite Azorean destination, a course should be set for Ponta do Castello Branco, before sailing along Faial’s south coast, which is the recommended way to approach Horta. In strong SW winds, it may be better to make landfall off Faial’s north coast and follow the contour of the island to Horta. When approaching Horta from the north, allowance should be made for a strong contrary current in the channel between Faial and Pico.

• AN126 Bermuda to Eastern Caribbean

BEST TIME: | Early December |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A2a Voyages to the Eastern Caribbean |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to the Virgin Islands, Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands, Sailors Guide to the Windward Islands.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN126A |  |  |  |  |
St George’s | Bermuda E | Virgins N |  |  |
32 °22.7’N, 64°39.8’W | 32°22.0’N, 64°38.0’W | 18°26.0’N, 65°05.0’W |  |  |
|  | Savana N |  |  |
|  | 18°22.0’N, 65°05.0’W |  |  |
|  | Savana S |  |  |
|  | 18°19.5’N, 65°02.5’W |  |  |
|  | Porpoise | Thomas SW | Charlotte Amalie | 853
|  | 18°18.3’N, 64°59’W | 18°18.0’N, 64°56.0’W | 18°19.8’N, 64°55.7’W |
Route AN126B |  |  |  |  |
St George’s | Bermuda E | Virgins NE | Virgin Gorda W | Virgin Gorda | 838
|  | 18°30.0’N, 64°30.7’W | 18°27.0’N, 64°26.7’W | 18°27.0’N, 64°26.2’W |
|  | Scrub E |  |  |
|  | 18°28.0’N, 64°29.7’W |  |  |
|  | Beef S | Tortola S | Road Harbour | 844
|  | 18°25.5’N, 64°31.0’W | 18°24.3’N, 64°35.0’W | 18°24.8’N, 64°36.3’W |
Route AN126C |  |  |  |  |
St George’s | Bermuda E | Sombrero W |  |  |
|  | 18°36.0’N, 63°36.0’W |  |  |
|  | West |  |  |
|  | 18°17.0’N, 63°18.0’W |  |  |
|  | Anguilla W | Martin W | St Martin | 866
|  | 18°09.5’N, 63°12.0’W | 18°06.0’N, 63°08.0’W | 18°05.0’N, 63°06.0’W |
|  | Maarten SW | Maarten SE | Philipsburg | 876
|  | 18°03.5’N, 63°10.5’W | 18°00.5’N, 63°03.6’W | 18°01.3’N, 63°02.7’W |
Route AN126D |  |  |  |  |
St George’s (Bermuda) | Bermuda E | Engano |  |  |
|  | 18°40.0’N, 68°10.0’W |  |  |
|  | Mona SE |  |  |
|  | 17°59.0’N, 67°36.0’W |  |  |
|  | Rojo | Rodney NW | Rodney Bay | 1151
|  | 17°45.0’N, 67°12.0’W | 14°05.6’N, 60°58.7’W | 14°05.7’N, 60°57.9’W |
|  |  | Grenada NW | St George’s (Grenada) | 1237
|  |  | 12°04.0’N, 61°46.8’W | 12 °02.8’N, 61 °45.2’W |

The best time to make this passage is at the change of seasons, when the risk of hurricanes has abated and the frequency of winter storms is still low. At this time of year a high-pressure ridge may be stationed close to Bermuda between 35ºN and 30ºN. Occasionally an approaching frontal system may push the high-pressure ridge as far south as 25ºN. If a low-pressure system develops south of 30ºN, the ridge may drift close to 20ºN and stall there for several days. Once south of Bermuda, and depending on the location of the ridge, NE trade winds can be expected south of the ridge. In November, the area of variable winds that surrounds Bermuda can extend as far south as 25ºN, although under normal circumstances the proportion of N and NE winds becomes predominant south of 28ºN. Steady NE trade winds should be found anywhere between latitudes 22ºN and 25ºN. As SE winds can be expected while passing south of the ridge, it is advisable to get close to, or even east of, 65ºW. Heading south towards the Leeward Islands those SE winds will gradually back to E and NE and turn into steady trade winds. At times, a developing low-pressure system or strong frontal system can extend to the Mona Passage with the winds veering to SW, W, NW and NE as the system passes.

Most boats making this passage actually do it at the best time, which coincides with most people’s cruising plans. Four alternative routes are outlined with suggested landfalls in the US or British Virgins as well as the Lesser Antilles. Boats bound for St Thomas can sail a direct course to make landfall north of the Savana Passage in the approaches to Charlotte Amalie. Boats bound for the British Virgins should sail a more easterly course to make landfall NE of Tortola. The nearest port of entry is Spanish Town on Virgin Gorda. Those who are bound for St Martin should make landfall at Sombrero light marking the Anegada Passage. The course continues west of Anguilla Island to the entrance into Marigot Bay. Entry formalities will be completed on the French side of the island at Marina Fort Louis or Marina Port Royale. Those who prefer to complete entry formalities with the Dutch authorities in the south of the island can do so at either Great Bay or Simpson Bay. Finally, route AN126D will reach the Caribbean Sea via the Mona Passage, and may be of interest to anyone bound for some of the southern islands of the Lesser Antilles. For more details refer to AN145.

• AN127 Bermuda to Western Caribbean

BEST TIME: | December to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to the Northwest Caribbean, Cruising Guide to Belize and Mexico’s Caribbean Coast, Cruising Guide to the Rio Dulce.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN127A |  |  |  |  |
St George’s | Bermuda E | Bermuda SE |  |  |
32°22.7’N, 64°39.8’W | 32°22.0’N, 64°38.0’W | 32°20.5’N, 64°39.0’W |  |  |
|  | Bermuda S |  |  |
|  | 32°13.0’N, 64°50.0’W |  |  |
|  | Caicos NW |  |  |
|  | 22°16.0’N, 72°22.0’W |  |  |
|  | Caicos W |  |  |
|  | 21°30.0’N, 72°44.0’W |  |  |
|  | Inagua S |  |  |
|  | 20°50.0’N, 73°06.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cuba E |  |  |
|  | 20°10.0’N, 73°57.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cuba S |  |  |
|  | 19°47.0’N, 75°30.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cuba SE | Morillo | Santiago de Cuba | 1010
|  | 19°58.0’N, 74°13.0’W | 19°57.0’N, 75°52.0’W | 19°58.0’N, 75°52.5’W |
|  | Cuba SW |  |  |
|  | 19°33.0’N, 78°00.0’W |  |  |
|  | Brac S |  |  |
|  | 19°30.0’N, 79°45.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cozumel S | Cozumel W | Cozumel | 1772
|  | 20°11.0’N, 87°00.0’W | 20°23.5’N, 87°03.0’W | 20°30.0’N, 86°58.5’W |
Route AN127B |  |  |  |  |
St George’s | Bermuda E | Bermuda SE |  |  |
|  | Bermuda S |  |  |
|  | Caicos NW |  |  |
|  | Caicos W |  |  |
|  | Inagua S |  |  |
|  | Cuba E |  |  |
|  | Cuba SE |  |  |
|  | Cayman S | Ambergris | San Pedro | 1790
|  | 38°36.0’N, 09°24.0’W | 17°57.5’N, 87°50.0’W | 17°56.0’N, 87°56.0’W |
|  |  | Mauger | Belize City | 1803
|  |  | 17°40.0’N, 87°46.0’W | 17°20.0’N, 88°02.5’W |
Route AN127C |  |  |  |  |
St George’s | Bermuda E | Bermuda SE |  |  |
|  | Bermuda S |  |  |
|  | Caicos NW |  |  |
|  | Caicos W |  |  |
|  | Inagua S |  |  |
|  | Cuba E |  |  |
|  | Cuba SE |  |  |
|  | Jamaica N | Montego | Montego Bay | 1146
|  | 18°33.0’N, 77°56.0’W | 18°29.0’N, 77°57.0’W | 18°28.2’N, 77°55.6’W |
|  | Jamaica NW |  |  |
|  | 18°28.5’N, 78°14.0’W |  |  |
|  | Swan S |  |  |
|  | 17°00.0’N, 83°55.0’W |  |  |
|  | Honduras N | Guanaja | Bonacca | 1617
|  | 16°41.0’N, 85°11.0’W | 16°29.5’N, 85°46.0’W | 16°26.0’N, 85°51.0’W |
|  | Roatan NE | Roatan SE | Roatan | 1650
|  | 16°35.0’N, 85°56.0’W | 16°23.5’N, 86°05.0’W | 16°18.0’N, 86°29.0’W |
|  | Amatique | Dulce | Livingston | 1784
|  | 16°00.0’N, 88°38.0’W | 15°51.0’N, 88°44.0’W | 15°49.5’N, 88°44.5’W |
|  | Barrier SW | Gorda E | Punta Gorda | 1782
|  | 16°00.0’N, 88°19.0’W | 16°05.0’N, 88°42.0’W | 16°05.7’N, 88°47.8’W |
|  |  | East Snake | Placencia | 1818
|  |  | 16°12.5’N, 88°28.0’W | 16°31.0’N, 88°22.0’W |

The most direct way to sail from Bermuda to destinations in the Western Caribbean is the offshore route that reaches the Caribbean Sea via the Caicos and Windward Passages. Having successfully transited the latter, the route divides in three. A northern branch runs along the south coast of Cuba, with the possibility of a stop at Santiago de Cuba, before continuing to destinations on the Yucatan Peninsula. An intermediate route leads to Northern Belize passing south of the Cayman Islands. The more southern route leads to destinations in the Bay of Honduras and may be interrupted in Jamaica’s Montego Bay. Details of all these destinations are described in detail in AN148 and AN75.

• AN128 Bermuda to Southern Caribbean and Panama

BEST TIME: | Early December to April |  |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4400, US 400 |  |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to Venezuela & Bonaire, Panama Cruising Guide, The ABC Islands. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN128A |  |  |  |  |  |
St George’s | Bermuda E | Bermuda SE |  |  |  |
32°22.7’N, 64°39.8’W | 32°22.0’N, 64°38.0’W | 32°20.5’N, 64°39.0’W |  |  |  |
|  | Engano |  |  |  |
|  | 18°40.0’N, 68°10.0’W |  |  |  |
|  | Mona SE |  |  |  |
|  | 17°59.0’N, 67°36.0’W |  |  |  |
|  | Orchilla E |  |  |  |
|  | 11°52.0’N, 65°56.0’W |  |  |  |
|  | Tortuga W |  |  |
|  | 10°54.0.0’N, 65°32.2’W |  |  |
|  | Puerto Cruz N | Puerto Cruz NW | Puerto Cruz | 1396
|  | 10°20.0’N, 64°42.0’W | 10°20.0’N, 64°42.0’W | 10°13.0’N, 64°38.8’W |
Route AN128B |  |  |  |  |
St George’s | Bermuda E | Bermuda SE |  |  |
|  | Engano |  |  |
|  | Mona SW |  |  |
|  | 18°00.0’N, 68°08.0’W |  |  |
|  | Bonaire N |  |  |
|  | 12°23.0’N, 68°23.5’W |  |  |
|  | Bonaire NW | Kralendijk W | Kralendijk | 1243
|  | 12°14.0’N, 68°27.0’W | 12°08.0’N, 68°20.0’W | 12°09.0’N, 68°16.9’W |
|  | Mona SW |  |  |
|  | Augusta |  |  |
|  | 11°25.0’N, 75°0.0’W |  |  |
|  | Zamba | Boca | Cartagena | 1521
|  | 10°50.0’N, 75°28.0’W | 10°23.5’N, 75°35.0’W | 10°23.5’N, 75°34.0’W |
Route AN128C |  |  |  |  |
St George’s | Bermuda E | Bermuda SE |  |  |
|  | Bermuda S |  |  |
|  | Caicos NW |  |  |
|  | Caicos W |  |  |
|  | Haiti NW |  |  |
|  | 20°00.0’N, 73°27.0’W |  |  |
|  | Navassa E |  |  |
|  | 18°24.0’N, 74°54.0’W |  |  |
|  | Jamaica SE | Chichime | Porvenir | 1596
|  | 17°16.0’N, 75°56.0’W | 9°37.0’N, 78°53.0’W | 9°33.5’N, 78°56.0’W |
|  | Farallones | Cristobal N | Cristobal | 1626
|  | 9°40.0’N, 79°38.5’W | 9°26.5’N, 79°54.5’W | 9°23.3’N, 79 °55.1’W |

Venezuela, the ABC Islands and Colombia have one great advantage over the far more popular Lesser Antilles and Virgin Islands: they all lie outside the hurricane belt. Although the effects of tropical storms may be felt, they are considered as safe cruising destinations during the hurricane season. The routes described here are therefore meant for those who, for whatever reason, may wish to sail the most direct route to the Southern Caribbean. The best and safest time to sail any of these routes is from early December to January, when consistent NE winds will ensure a fast passage. Earlier passages should be avoided because of the risk of a late hurricane, while later passages may have less favourable winds. The direct route via the Mona Passage may also appeal to anyone planning to transit the Panama Canal but precede it with a cruise through the ABC Islands, Colombia and San Blas. However, the most direct route from Bermuda to Panama is via the Caicos and Windward Passage. Those bound for the Panama Canal may be tempted to make a short detour to visit the San Blas Islands, in which case a slightly more easterly course should be set from Jamaica SE.

For detailed descriptions of all these destinations refer to AN72 and AN73.

AN130 • Routes from the Azores

• | AN131 | Azores to Ireland | 163
• | AN132 | Azores to Northern Europe | 164
• | AN133 | Azores to Portugal | 165
• | AN134 | Azores to Gibraltar | 166
• | AN135 | Azores to Madeira | 167
• | AN136 | Azores to Canary Islands | 168
• | AN137 | Azores to Bermuda | 169
• | AN138 | Azores to USA | 170
• | AN139 | Azores to Canada and Greenland | 171

Well over 1000 boats call at the Azores every year, the majority arriving from the Caribbean, either direct or via Bermuda during May and June. A few boats arrive from North America and Northern Europe during July but most traffic is confined to the peak period of late spring and early summer when most boats pass through on their way to Northern Europe or the Mediterranean. These are the two main routes taking boats away from the Azores. The winds on both of these routes in early summer are generally favourable with a higher proportion of NW, W and SW winds on the way to the English Channel, and mostly N and NE winds on the way to the Mediterranean.

During most of the year the weather in the Azores themselves is very changeable but it is quite settled in July and August. In spite of the many cruising attractions, most boats do not spend long in the islands and usually confine themselves to only one stop, usually the marina in Horta. Yachting facilities have greatly improved in recent years with marinas, boatyards and good repair facilities in most islands.

The Azores enjoy an Atlantic climate, and the dominant feature is the area of high pressure, or anticyclone, named after them. The position of the Azores High varies with the season, reaching its northernmost limit in September and furthest south in February. This cell of high atmospheric pressure usually lies to the S or SW of the islands and in summer is often stationary, when prolonged periods of calm can be expected. At other times the winds are very variable in both strength and direction, although those from the western sector are slightly more frequent. Close to land the wind is deflected, especially where the coastline is steep, and the direction of the prevailing wind varies from island to island. The weather in the Azores is also affected by the depressions that pass across the Atlantic from west to east. These usually pass to the north, except in winter when they can pass directly over the islands. When one of these lows passes, the winds change quickly, veering from SW to NW bringing rain. Rain occurs in all months, although more falls in winter, and is especially associated with the Atlantic lows. Although not in the hurricane belt, occasionally a rogue hurricane takes an abnormal path to pass near the Azores, but is generally weakened by the time it reaches that far. Several hurricanes have affected the Azores in recent years: Gaston in 2016, Ophelia in 2017, Helene in 2018, Lorenzo and Pablo in 2019, and Paulette in 2020. This is now a factor that should be taken into account when planning a voyage in that area, especially in the period between August and October. There is a moderate frequency of gales over the Azores, most of which occur in winter months.

AN130 Routes from the Azores

• AN131 Azores to Ireland

BEST TIME: | May to July |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | August to October (Azores) |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4011, US 11 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Almanac, Irish Sea Pilot. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN131A |  |  |  |  |
Horta | Faial E | Faial NE |  |  |
38°32.1’N, 28°37.0’W | 38°32.5’N, 28°35.5’W | 38°36.0’N, 28°35.0’W |  |  |
|  | Graciosa NW |  |  |
|  | 39°6.5’N, 28°6.0’W |  |  |
Ponta Delgada | Miguel SW | Miguel W |  |  |
37°44.2’N, 25°39.0’W | 37°43.5’N, 25°41.0’W | 37°50.0’N, 25°53.0’W |  |  |
|  | Miguel NW |  |  |
|  | 37°55.0’N, 25°51.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cork SW | Roche | Crosshaven | 1164/1130
|  | 51°43.0’N, 8°16.0’W | 51°47.25’N, 8°15.6’W | 51°48.6’N, 8°16.2’W |
Route AN131B |  |  |  |  |
Horta | Faial E | Faial NE |  |  |
|  | Graciosa NW |  |  |
Ponta Delgada | Miguel SW | Miguel W |  |  |
|  | Miguel NW |  |  |
|  | Smalls SW | Ireland SE | Wexford | 1249/1223
|  | 51°40.0’N, 5°50.0’W | 52°11.0’N, 6°11.0’W | 52°20.5’N, 6°25.0’W |

The same general directions apply as for the more travelled route AN132, but as destinations in Ireland are more westerly than those in the English Channel, the suggestion to sail due north on leaving the Azores does not have to be followed slavishly as it does not matter too much if some ground is lost to the west. This can be corrected later with the help of the westerlies that normally prevail in higher latitudes. Calms are sometimes experienced in the vicinity of the Azores, particularly in July and August, when the Azores High reaches its maximum pressure of the year.

Boats leaving from Horta should pass close to the western extremity of the islands of São Jorge and Graciosa to reach the open ocean. If leaving from Ponta Delgada, São Miguel’s south coast should be followed as far as Ponta da Ferraria at the NW extremity of São Miguel, and departure taken from there. Landfall will be made in the approaches to Cork Harbour, one of the best protected ports on the south coast of Ireland. Entry formalities are completed in Crosshaven. Boats bound for ports on the east coast of Ireland should make landfall at the start of the north-going shipping lane into the Irish Sea near the Smalls lighthouse. The nearest port of entry is Wexford, which has a good range of facilities, while further up the coast Dun Laoghaire is a convenient base from which to explore the capital Dublin.

• AN132 Azores to Northern Europe

BEST TIME: | May to July |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | August to October (Azores) |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4103, US 11 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Almanac, Shell Channel Pilot, Irish Sea Pilot, Norwegian Cruising Guide. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN132A |  |  |  |  |
Horta | Faial E | Faial NE |  |  |
38°32.1’N, 28°37.0’W | 38°32.5’N, 28°35.5’W | 38°36.0’N, 28°35.0’W |  |  |
|  | Graciosa NW | Lizard | Falmouth | 1230
|  | 39°6.5’N, 28°6.0’W | 49°55.0’N, 5°10.0’W | 50°8.0’N, 5°02.0’W |
|  |  | Brest SW | Brest | 1186
|  |  | 48°03.0’N, 4°59.7’W | 48°21.0’N, 4°29.0’W |
Route AN132B |  |  |  |  |
Ponta Delgada | Miguel SW | Miguel W |  |  |
37°44.2’N, 25°39.0’W | 37°43.5’N, 25°41.0’W | 37°50.0’N, 25°53.0’W |  |  |
|  | Miguel NW | Lizard | Falmouth | 1178
|  | 37°55.0’N, 25°51.0’W | Brest SW | Brest | 1111
Route AN132C |  |  |  |  |
Horta | Faial E | Faial NE |  |  |
|  | Graciosa NW |  |  |
Ponta Delgada | Miguel SW | Miguel W |  |  |
|  | Miguel NW |  |  |
|  | Smalls SW |  |  |
|  | 51°40.0’N, 5°50.0’W |  |  |
|  | Man SW |  |  |
|  | 54°04.0’N, 5°08.0’W |  |  |
|  | Galloway SW |  |  |
|  | 54°34.0’N, 5°07.3’W |  |  |
|  | Kintyre SW | Ardmore E | Oban X | 1514/1488
|  | 55°16.0’N, 5°54.0’W | 55°40.0’N, 5°58.5’W | 56°24.5’N, 5°29.5’W |

The prevailing winds of summer are from SW to NW, and although it may be possible to sail a direct course for the English Channel, that temptation should be resisted by sailing a more conservative course that keeps some westing in hand so as to avoid being set into the Bay of Biscay by a SW gale. The usual tactic for this route is to sail almost due north until steady westerly winds are encountered, and not to set a direct course for the English Channel before latitude 45ºN has been reached.

In the area immediately to the north of the Azores calms are frequent, their extent depending on the position of the Azores High and the ridge of high pressure that normally extends from it towards the mainland during summer. If such calm spots are encountered, one should be prepared to motor through and make the desired northing. Even if there is no wind, the weather will be fine and sunny before it gives way to westerly winds, overcast skies, and occasionally wet and cold weather. Summer weather for the English Channel is difficult to predict and the winds can come from any direction and at any strength. Visibility can become poor in the approaches to the Channel and both this fact and the presence of strong tidal currents, as well as the large amount of shipping, must all be borne in mind when making landfall on the English coast.

The northbound route from Horta passes west of São Jorge and the open ocean is reached once the island of Graciosa has been left behind. Those who have left from Ponta Delgada should follow São Miguel’s south coast as far as Ponta da Ferraria, at the NW extremity of the island, and take their departure from there. Landfall is made off the Lizard Peninsula at the SW extremity of England. The attractive and well-sheltered Cornish harbour of Falmouth is both a convenient place to clear into the United Kingdom and a good place to rest after the long passage. Those who prefer to make landfall on the French side of the Channel should set a course for Brest SW in the approaches to that attractive Brittany port. Marina du Chateau is the most conveniently located to complete entry formalities.

Although most boats bound for ports in the Baltic and Scandinavia sail there via the English Channel, the challenging navigation through that busy shipping artery may make route AN132C via the Irish Sea and Caledonian Canal more appealing. Besides such practical considerations, this route offers the opportunity to call at a number of interesting ports in Ireland, England and Scotland, and explore what is regarded as one of the most attractive cruising grounds in Europe – the lochs and islands on Scotland’s spectacular west coast. This is also the route to be sailed by boats bound for ports on the west coast of England as well as Scotland.

Those who have chosen this route should make landfall at the start of the north-going shipping lane into the Irish Sea near the Smalls lighthouse. From there, a direct course can be sailed west of the Isle of Man and continue through the North Channel that separates Ireland from Scotland. The next waypoint is set off the SW extremity of the Mull of Kintyre. Having altered course to pass east of the Ardmore Islands, coastal navigation has to take over as there are various ways to reach Fort William at the head of Loch Linhe and the entrance to the Caledonian Canal. A convenient port of call with good facilities on the way to Fort William is Oban.

• AN133 Azores to Portugal

BEST TIME: | May to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | August to October (Azores) |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4103, US 11 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Spain and Portugal. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN133A |  |  |  |  |
Horta | Faial E | Topo |  |  |
38°32.1’N, 28°37.0’W | 38°32.5’N, 28°35.5’W | 38°30.0’N, 27°46.0’W |  |  |
|  | Terceira S | Channel S | Lisbon | 924
|  | 38°34.0’N, 27°4.0’W | 38°36.0’N, 9°24.0’W | 38°40.4’N, 9°18.4’W |
Route AN133B |  |  |  |  |
Ponta Delgada | Miguel S | Miguel SE | Channel S | Lisbon | 773
37°44.2’N, 25°39.0’W | 37°41.0’N, 30°50.0’W | 37°43.0’N, 25°8.0’W |  |  |
Route AN133C |  |  |  |  |
Vila do Porto | Maria S | Maria SE | Channel S | Lisbon | 761
36°56.3’N, 25°08.9’W | 36°55.0’N, 25°08.0’W | 36°55.0’N, 25°00.0’W |  |  |
Route AN133D |  |  |  |  |
Horta | Faial E | Topo |  |  |
|  | Terceira S |  |  |
|  | Vincent SW |  |  |
|  | 37°00.0’N, 9°12.0’W |  |  |
|  | Sagres | Moura SW | Vilamoura | 996
|  | 36°58.5’N, 8°57.0’W | 37°04.0’N, 8°9.0’W | 37°04.2’N, 8°07.5’W |
Route AN133E |  |  |  |  |
Ponta Delgada | Miguel S | Miguel SE |  |  |
|  | Vincent SW |  |  |
|  | Sagres | Moura SW | Vilamoura | 839

Favourable winds can be expected for most of the way if the passage is made at the beginning of summer. The winds in the vicinity of the islands are variable, with a slight predominance of SW and W winds. In May and early June a belt of calms is usually crossed somewhere between the Azores and the mainland before entering the area of prevailing northerly winds. At times the calms can be quite extensive and one should be prepared to motor. Steadier winds can be expected towards the middle of summer. During July and August the strong Portuguese trades, blowing at a steady 15–20 knots, make this a fast and exhilarating trip. Such northerly winds will be encountered about 300 to 400 miles off the Portuguese coast. Occasionally, if the Azores High is located north of the islands, NE winds may be experienced all the way across to Portugal. Because of the prevailing winds, northern ports on the Portuguese coast will be to windward if a rhumb line is sailed from the Azores. This and the south-setting Portugal Current should be taken into account when the course is set for the port of destination so as to have some northing in hand when approaching the coast.

Boats that have cruised the Azores from NW to SE will find it more convenient to take their departure either at Ponta Delgada on São Miguel, or Vila do Porto, on Santa Maria. Boats bound for Lisbon should make their landfall at the start of the South Channel, which leads into the Tagus River on whose north shore lies the Portuguese capital. The nearest marina is at Cascais, north of the river mouth, and within easy reach of the capital. The route to Vilamoura, on the Algarve coast, leads due east to Cape St Vincent. All Portuguese marinas monitor channels 9 and 16.

• AN134 Azores to Gibraltar

BEST TIME: | May to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | August to October (Azores) |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4103, US 11 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Straits Sailing Handbook. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN134A |  |  |  |  |
Horta | Faial E | Topo |  |  |
38°32.1’N, 28°37.0’W | 38°32.5’N, 28°35.5’W | 38°30.0’N, 27°46.0’W |  |  |
|  | Terceira S |  |  |
|  | 38°34.0’N, 27°04.0’W |  |  |
|  | Vincent SW |  |  |
|  | 37°00.0’N, 9°12.0’W |  |  |
|  | Hoyo |  |  |
|  | 36°04’N, 6°20.0’ W |  |  |
|  | Tarifa |  |  |
|  | 35°59.5’N, 5°36.5’W |  |  |
|  | Acebuche | Gibraltar | Marina Bay Marina | 1127
|  | 36°02.5’N, 5°27.0’W | 36°07.5’N, 5°23.0’W | 36°09’N, 5°21’W |
|  |  |  | Queensway Marina | 1126
|  |  |  | 36°08’N, 5°21’W |
|  | Europa Point |  |  | 1129
|  | 36°05’N, 5°20.5’W |  |  |
Route AN134B |  |  |  |  |
Ponta Delgada | Miguel S | Miguel SE |  |  |
37°44.2’N, 25°39.0’W | 37°41.0’N, 30°50.0’W | 37°43.0’N, 25°08.0’W |  |  |
|  | Vincent SW |  |  |
|  | Hoyo |  |  |
|  | Tarifa |  |  |
|  | Acebuche | Gibraltar | Marina Bay Marina | 985
|  |  |  | Queensway Marina | 984
Vila do Porto | Maria S | Hoyo |  |  |
36°56.3’N, 25°8.9’W | 36°55.0’N, 25°8.0’W |  |  |  |
|  | Tarifa |  |  |
|  | Acebuche | Gibraltar | Marina Bay Marina | 961
|  |  |  | Queensway Marina | 960

Directions as far as Cape St Vincent are the same as those for AN133 and similar weather conditions can be expected until the route comes under the influence of continental weather. East of Cape St Vincent, the Portuguese trades are normally lost and the winds become local in character. On summer days, a SW sea breeze occurs on approaching the Bay of Cadiz. This wind comes up around noon and lasts until midnight. If a strong levanter is predicted in the Strait of Gibraltar, it is advisable to wait for a change in one of the ports along the Algarve coast or Barbate, which is not far west of Tarifa and is the closest to the strait. Alternatively, one can find some shelter in the lee of Tarifa Island itself. The latest weather information, as well as other shipping news, can be obtained from Tarifa Radio, which operates a 24-hour service in both Spanish and English.

Two convenient ports to depart the Azores are Ponta Delgada, on São Miguel, and Vila do Porto, on Santa Maria. A direct course can be sailed from either of them to Cape St Vincent. The route continues to the Strait of Gibraltar and Tarifa Island staying inshore of the west-going shipping lane. A course parallel to the Spanish coast will lead into the Bay of Gibraltar. Clearance formalities are completed at one of the marinas. Detailed directions for negotiating the Strait of Gibraltar for those who are continuing nonstop into the Mediterranean are given in route AN16 and ME1.

• AN135 Azores to Madeira

BEST TIME: | May to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | August to October (Azores) |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4104, US 11 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Islands. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Vila do Porto | Maria S | Madeira W | Madeira SW | Funchal | 485
36°56.3’N, 25°08.9’W | 36°55.0’N, 25°08.0’W | 32°48.0’N, 17°20.0’W | 32°37.0’N, 16°56.5’W | 32°38.5’N, 16°54.0’W |
|  |  |  | Calheta | 468
|  |  |  | 32 °43.0’N, 17°10.03’W |

The winds between these two Portuguese outposts are usually favourable with the direction becoming increasingly NE closer to Madeira. A good departure port from the Azores is Vila do Porto on the island of Santa Maria as it is the nearest to Madeira. From Vila do Porto a direct course can be set for Ponta do Pargo at Madeira’s western end. From there, the course runs parallel to Madeira’s SW coast to the capital and main port Funchal. A convenient place to stop before reaching Funchal and its crowded marina and anchorage is Calheta Marina. This is a port of entry and full-service marina.

• AN136 Azores to Canary Islands

BEST TIME: | May to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | August to October (Azores) |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4104, US 11 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Islands. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN136A |  |  |  |  |
Vila do Porto | Maria S | Salvagem E |  |  |
36°56.3’N, 25°08.9’W | 36°55.0’N, 25°08.0’W | 30°10.0’N, 15°40.0’W |  |  |
|  | Graciosa SW | Graciosa S | La Sociedad | 725
|  | 29°13.0’N, 13°33.0’W | 29°13.7’N, 13°30.1’W | 29°13.8’N, 13°30’W |
Route AN136B |  |  |  |  |
Vila do Porto | Maria S |  | Isleta | Las Palmas | 727
|  |  | 28°9.0’N, 15°23.0’W | 28°07.3’N, 15°24.0’W |
Route AN136C |  |  |  |  |
Vila do Porto | Maria S | Palma NE | Palma E | La Palma | 633
|  | 28°53.0’N, 17°35.0’W | 28°40.0’N, 17°45.0’W | 28°40.2’N, 17°46.0’W |

Both winds and current are usually favourable on this passage. If the intention is to cruise the Canaries it is best to sail first to one of the eastern islands of the Canarian Archipelago, such as La Graciosa or Lanzarote. This will ensure favourable winds during the subsequent cruise and also allows the islands to be visited in a logical order. The direct route from Santa Maria, the southernmost of the Azores, to La Graciosa, the northernmost of the Canaries, passes south of Madeira and close to the Salvagem Islands. An intermediate waypoint has been set to pass east of those small islands, which are a protected nature reserve. Those intending to stop at the Salvagem Islands must obtain a special permit, which is issued in Funchal by the Department of Fisheries. In bad weather, yachts are allowed to anchor in Enseada das Cagarras (30º08.3’N, 15º52.2’W) on the SW side of Salvagem Grande, but access ashore is only allowed to those in possession of a landing permit that can only be obtained in the capital Funchal. There are wardens stationed on both islands and they can be contacted on channel 16.

Boats bound for La Graciosa will make landfall at La Graciosa’s SW extremity. Estrecho del Rio, the channel separating La Graciosa from Lanzarote, leads to La Sociedad. This is La Graciosa’s main settlement where visiting boats usually find space on one of the pontoons.

Those who intend to only use the Canaries as an intermediate stop to prepare for a transatlantic passage, may find it more convenient to call at one of the western islands, such as La Palma. The island’s capital, Santa Cruz de la Palma, has a small marina within the commercial harbour and the attractive city is an excellent place for provisioning the boat for the onward passage. However, repair facilities are limited and anyone in need of a major service will find a much wider range at Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.

• AN137 Azores to Bermuda

BEST TIME: | May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4011, US 11 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A15b Voyages from Western Europe |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Bermuda Discovered. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN137A |  |  |  |  |
Horta | Faial SE | Faial SW | Bermuda E | St George’s | 1811
38°32.1’N, 28°37.0’W | 38°30.5’N, 28°46.0’W | 38°30.0’N, 28°37.0’W | 32°22.0’N, 64°38.0’W | 32°22.7’N, 64°39.8’W |
Route AN137B |  |  |  |  |
Lajes | Flores SE | Flores SW | Bermuda E | St George’s | 1687
39°22.8’N, 31°09.9’W | 39°21.8’N, 31°09.7’W | 39°20.5’N, 31°17.0’W |  |  |

For most sailors contemplating this passage, the Azores are only a convenient stop on a longer voyage, and so is the stop in Bermuda. Horta used to be the traditional starting point for the passage to Bermuda, but the improvements to the port of Lajes, on Flores, now make it possible to start one’s voyage at the western extremity of the Azorean Archipelago.

Westbound passages from the Azores are very much dependent on the location of the Azores High and there is a good chance of SW winds along its western limit. In early summer the prevailing winds along the direct route are SW and only a boat with good windward going ability would be able to sail the course. The only alternative is to make a detour to the south into an area of E and NE winds, which in June should be found in about latitude 30°. However, after June and the start of the hurricane season, a prompt departure becomes essential. It may even be advisable to go as far as starting such a passage in Madeira so as to have a better chance of NE winds for the first part of the passage, and a better sailing angle towards Bermuda when SW winds take over.

Under normal circumstances, a direct route to Bermuda may intersect the Azores High along its entire length, in which case a course for Bermuda should not be set until the southern limit of the Azores High has been left behind. This may entail going even further south, to be assured of favourable winds. If westerly winds are encountered in the early part of the voyage, one should stay on the starboard tack even if it means going as far south as latitude 30ºN or even 28ºN where there is a high proportion of E and SE winds that veer to S and SW as the route swings around to point for Bermuda. Landfall is made at the entrance into St George’s Harbour, Bermuda’s only official port of entry.

The narrow Town Cut, although well buoyed and lit, should not be attempted at night by those unfamiliar with the area. Arriving boats must contact Bermuda Radio prior to making landfall and give an ETA. The first contact should be attempted when 30 miles from the island. The station is on call 24 hours on 2182 kHz, 4125 kHz, and VHF channels 16 and 27. A Yacht Pre-Arrival Information Questionnaire needs to be completed online at http://www.marops.bm/of_visitingyacht.aspx. Arriving boats should proceed to the Customs dock located on the NE corner of Ordnance Island. Yachts must be moored in front of the building for clearing both in and out.

• AN138 Azores to USA

BEST TIME: | May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4011, US 11 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A15b Voyages from Western Europe |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Bermuda Discovered, Chesapeake Bay, Cruising Guide to the New England Coast. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN138A |  |  |  |  |
Horta | Faial SE | Faial SW | Newport S | Newport X | 2028
38°32.1’N, 28°37.0’W | 38°30.5’N, 28°46.0’W | 38°30.0’N, 28°37.0’W | 41°06.5’N, 71°22.0’W | 41°29.0’N, 71°20.0’W |
|  |  | New York SE | New York X | 2132
|  |  | 40°42.0’N, 74°00.0’W | 40°07.5’N, 73°21.0’W |
|  | Chesapeake | Bay | Norfolk X | 2285
|  | 36°42.0’N, 74°48.0’W | 37°02.5’N, 76°04.0’W | 36°58.0’N, 76°22.0’W |
Route AN138B |  |  |  |  |
Lajes | Flores SE | Flores SW | Newport S | Newport X | 1894
39.22.8’N, 31°09.9’W | 39°21.8’N, 31°09.7’W | 39°20.5’N, 31°17.0’W | New York SE | New York X | 1997
|  | Chesapeake | Bay | Norfolk X | 2151

Early summer passages from the Azores to ports on the US east coast can be quite challenging because of the prevailing westerly winds. However, passages along this route are being regularly accomplished thanks to much better access to weather forecasts than in the past. If time permits, it pays to wait for the Azores High to be well established and in a favourable location, as this may ensure a spell of NE winds at least for the initial part of the passage.

It is debatable whether it is better to wait for the opportune moment to start the passage in Madeira, or at one of the Azores. The former has the advantage that NE winds are a more frequent feature in those latitudes, whereas the latter may ensure a shorter passage. As suggested in the case of passages to Bermuda, the alternative is to take a more southerly route into the area of E and NE winds, which in June should be found around latitude 30°. Boats bound for more northern ports would benefit from a better sailing angle. A ridge of high pressure, which often extends from the Azores High westwards towards Bermuda and the American mainland, will keep any storm systems or strong westerly winds well to the north.

An important decision to be taken by those leaving from the Mediterranean or Southern Europe, is whether to even consider going to the Azores or opt for a more southerly route that stays south of both the Azores and the high named after them. The resulting passage may end up longer in miles but not necessarily in time, as the probability of favourable winds is higher on such a route. Regardless of the route chosen, if this passage is made after the middle of June, the risk of an early tropical storm should be taken into account, as the tracks of past hurricanes had passed though the area to be sailed.

Because of the multitude of destinations, only waypoints for the most frequented ports are given. Route AN121 should be consulted for landfall details.

All international arrivals (both foreign and US yachts) must file a Notice of Arrival (NOA) with the U.S. Coast Guard National Vessel Movement Center (NVMC), at least 96 hours prior to arrival. Email: sans@nvmc.uscg. gov. Tel.: +1-800-708-9823, + 1-304-264-2502. All foreign nationals, except Canadians, must be in possession of a US visa.

• AN139 Azores to Canada and Greenland

BEST TIME: | June to July |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4011, US 11 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A15b Voyages from Western Europe |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to Newfoundland, Cruising Guide to the Nova Scotia Coast, Faroe, Iceland and Greenland. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN139A |  |  |  |  |
Horta | Faial E | Faial NE |  |  |
38°32.1’N, 28°37.0’W | 38°30.5’N, 28°46.0’W | 38°26.0’N, 28°35.0’W |  |  |
|  | Sable |  |  |
|  | 43°42.0’N, 60 0.0’W |  |  |
|  | Nova | Sambro | Halifax X | 1627
|  | 44°06.0’N, 63°5.0’W | 44°27.0’N, 63°26.5’W | 44°38.0’N, 63°34.0’W |
|  | Terra | Spear | St John’s X | 1221
|  | 46°37.0’N, 52°23.0’W | 47°31.5’N, 52°34.2’W | 47°34.0’N, 52°40.0’W |
Route AN139B |  |  |  |  |
Horta | Faial E | Faial NE |  |  |
|  | Greenland S | Farewell | Christian E | 1436
|  | 57°38.0’N, 43°09.0’W | 59°39.0’N, 43°37.5’W | 60°03.5’N, 42°55.0’W |
|  |  | Nanortalik S | Nanortalik | 1444
|  |  | 61°53.0’N, 49°55.0’W | 61°58.0’N, 49°46.0’W |
|  |  | Paamiut S | Paamiut | 1625
|  |  | 60°00.0’N, 45°28.0’W | 60°05.0’N, 45°17.5’W |
|  |  | Nuuk S | Nuuk | 1768
|  |  | 64°00.0’N, 52°20.0’W | 64°04.5’N, 52 °07.5’W |

As much of the Azores High is located south of the Azores archipelago in June and early July, those intending to sail this passage at that time should consider taking a direct route, especially if bound for Newfoundland or Greenland. In June and July the predominant wind direction north of the Azores is SW and W, which should make it possible to lay a direct course for your port of destination even if the initial part of the passage will be close on the wind. Ice may pose a risk in early summer especially once the area of the Grand Banks is reached. For boats bound for Nova Scotia the directions for route AN138 may be more appropriate.

The direct route to Greenland passes through an area that may be affected by ice well into the summer months. Extreme caution should be exercised as there may also be a high incidence of fog. Prevailing winds will be mostly from the west, making this a close-hauled affair. In early summer it is best to keep well to the south and west of Cape Farewell because of the risk of ice. If conditions are right, it is worth making landfall east of Prince Christian Sound and using this spectacular passage to reach the west coast of Greenland. The most convenient port of entry for boats arriving from the south is Nanortalik, NW of Cape Christian, located on a small island of the same name. Nanotarlik is only open between August and December. The nearest port that is open all year is Paamiut. The authorities monitor channels 16 and 12 and vessels are required to contact the authorities via Aasiaat Coastal Radio on 2182 kHz at least 24 hours before arrival. Greenland Ice Service can be contacted by telephone on +299 66 52 44, satellite phone on +881631420563 or email at isc@greennet.gl for information about the latest ice situation.

AN140 • Atlantic routes from North America

• | AN141 | North America to Northern Europe | 173
• | AN142 | North America to Mediterranean | 176
• | AN143 | North America to Bermuda | 177
• | AN144 | North America to Azores | 178
• | AN145 | North America to the Eastern Caribbean | 179
• | AN146 | North America to Bahamas | 181
• | AN147 | North America to Panama | 182
• | AN148 | North America to the Western Caribbean | 184
• | AN149 | North America to the Southern Caribbean | 186

Offshore routes from the North American seaboard fan out in a clockwise direction, with passages to the southern cruising grounds now far outnumbering those to any other destinations. As a result, the number of boats sailing to Europe along the higher latitudes has decreased considerably and most North American boats reach Europe by a southern route, usually via Bermuda and the Azores. Bermuda is a convenient stopover place both for transatlantic routes and voyages bound for the Caribbean. For boats bound for the Eastern Caribbean from ports east of New York, a stop in Bermuda would not add too many miles, but from ports situated further south a direct course makes more sense. Because of the Gulf Stream and the often unfavourable sailing conditions prevailing offshore, a large number of boats reach southern destinations via the Intracoastal Waterway. This is a good solution for those planning to spend the winter in Florida, the Bahamas or Western Caribbean. Those who intend to sail on to the Eastern Caribbean should avoid proceeding too far south or risk having unfavourable conditions on their onward passage. Passages to the Caribbean are normally made after the middle of November when the hurricane season has come to an end and the risk of winter gales is still low. Eastbound passages from North America are undertaken mostly in late spring or early summer, from May until early July, when best conditions can be expected.

AN140 Atlantic Routes from North America

The area from Cape Hatteras to Cape Cod is in the region of variable winds and is also strongly affected by weather on the continental landmass, with winter northers and gales being generated by fronts moving from west to east. Hurricanes can reach up to 40ºN, which is the region of New York, and their effects may be felt further north, particularly in late summer and autumn. Offshore sailing conditions can be affected by the North Atlantic High, with a ridge extending west in summer resulting in a high proportion of SW winds.

East of Cape Cod coastal weather is influenced by the landmass more than by the ocean, the weather systems moving generally in a west to east direction. Rainy thunderstorms occur in June, July and August and often there is coastal fog, especially in the mornings. The prevailing winds in the Cape Cod to Newfoundland area are SW or S, which veer to NW as depressions pass over. In summer there are few gales and the winds are lighter inshore than at sea.

The area from Maine to Newfoundland and over the Grand Banks is affected by fog, particularly in spring and summer. This is caused by S or SW winds bringing warm, moist air over the sea, which is kept cool by the Labrador Current. A careful lookout for the many fishing boats and lobster pots in this area must be kept when visibility is poor. A northerly wind tends to clear the fog. Also in spring and summer up to July, when the polar ice is breaking up, icebergs are sometimes carried south into the area off Newfoundland. The US coast and Nova Scotia are normally out of the iceberg zone.

• AN141 North America to Northern Europe

BEST TIME: | June to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4011, US 11 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A10 Voyages from North America |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Almanac, Shell Channel Pilot, Irish Sea Pilot, Norwegian Cruising Guide. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN141A |  |  |  |  |
Norfolk X | Bay | Chesapeake |  |  | 3218/3215
36°58.0’N, 76°22.0’W | 37°02.5’N, 76°04.0’W | 36°42.0’N, 74°48.0’W |  |  |
New York X | New York SE |  |  |  | 3005/3002
40°42.0’N, 74°0.0’W | 40°07.5’N, 73°21.0’W |  |  |  |
Newport X | Newport S | Rhode SE |  |  | 2911/2918
41°29.0’N, 71°20.0’W | 41°06.5’N, 71°22.0’W | 40°21.0’N, 70°16.5’W |  |  |
Portland X | Portland SE | Scotia SW |  |  | 2738/2742
43°37.5’N, 70°12.0’ | 43°30.0’N, 69°59.3’ | 43°15.0’N, 65°35.8’W |  |  |
Halifax X | Sambro | Nova |  |  | 2470/2467
44°38.0’N, 63°34.0’W | 44°27.0’N, 63°26.5’W | 44°06.0’N, 63°05.0’W |  |  |
|  | [Sable] |  |  |
|  | 43°42.0’N, 60°0.0’W |  |  |
|  | [Banks] |  |  |
|  | 40°00.0’N, 50°00.0’W |  |  |
St John’s | Spear | Terra |  |  | 1973/1980
47°34.0’N, 52°40.0’W | 47°31.5’N, 52°34.2’W | 46°37.0’N, 52°23.0’W |  |  |
|  | Land’s End | Lizard | Falmouth | 1880
|  | 50°00.0’N, 5°48.0’W | 49°55.0’N, 5°10.0’W | 50°08.0’N, 5°02.0’W |
|  | Monks | Brest W | Brest | 1930
|  | 48°19.5’N, 4°46.5’W | 48°19.5’N, 4°37.0’W | 48°21.0’N, 4°29.0’W |
Route AN141B |  |  |  | To | Crosshaven
Norfolk X | Bay | Chesapeake |  |  | 3068
New York X | New York SE |  |  |  | 2853
Newport X | Newport S | Rhode SE |  |  | 2762
Portland X | Portland SE | Scotia SW |  |  |
Halifax X | Nova | [Sable] |  |  |
|  | [Banks] |  |  |
|  | Fastnet |  |  |
|  | 51°17.0’N, 9°36.0’W |  |  |
|  | Kinsale |  |  |
|  | 51°35.0’N, 8°31.5’W |  |  |
|  | Cork SW | Roche | Crosshaven | 2590/2324
| ` | 51°43.0’N, 8°16.0’W | 51°47.25’N, 8°15.6’W | 51°48.6’N, 8°16.2’W |
Route AN141C |  |  |  |  |
Norfolk X | Bay | Chesapeake |  |  |
|  | [Banks] |  |  |
|  | Fastnet |  |  |
|  | Ireland SE |  |  |
|  | 52°11.0’N, 06°10.9’W |  |  |
|  | Man SW |  |  |
|  | 54°04.0’N, 5°08.0’W |  |  |
|  | Galloway SW |  |  |
|  | 54°34.0’N, 5°07.3’W |  |  |
|  | Kintyre SW | Ardmore E | Oban X | 3426
|  | 55°16.0’N, 5°54.0’W | 55°40.0’N, 5°58.5’W | 56°24.5’N, 5°29.5’W |
Route AN141D |  |  |  |  |
Norfolk X | Bay | Chesapeake | Artach | Oban X | 3134
|  | Banks | 56°05.0’N, 6°35.0’W |  |
Route AN141E |  |  |  |  |
St John’s | Terra |  | Artach | Oban X | 1905
Route AN141F |  |  |  |  | Bergen/Lerwick
Norfolk X | Bay | Chesapeake |  |  | 3443/3260
New York X | New York SE |  |  |  | 3256/3073
Newport X | Newport S | Rhode SE |  |  | 3156/2973
Portland X | Portland SE | Scotia SW |  |  | 3025/2842
St John’s X | Terra |  |  |  | 2304/2097
Savage Cove | Savage Cove NW | Belle Isle W |  |  | 2013/1888
51°20.0’N, 56°42.0’W | 51°20.25’N, 56°42.5’W | 51°41.0’N, 55°56.0’W |  |  |
|  | Belle Isle S |  |  |
|  | 51°50.0’N, 55°22.0’W |  |  |
|  | Rockall N |  |  |
|  | 57°44.0’N, 13°39.0’W |  |  |
|  | Flannan |  |  |
|  | 58°20.0’N, 7°45.0’W |  |  |
|  | Lewis |  |  |
|  | 58°35.0’S, 6°18.0’W |  |  |
|  | Orkneys N | Bergen SW | Bergen X |
|  | 59°28.0’N, 2°56.0’W | 60°07.0’N, 4°55.0’E | 60°24.0’N, 5°19.0’E |
|  | Shetlands SE | Lerwick S | Lerwick |
|  | 59°48.5’N, 1°10.0’W | 60°04.5’N, 1°08.5’W | 60°08.5’N, 1°08.0’W |
Route AN141G |  |  |  |  |
Savage Cove | Savage Cove NW | Belle Isle W |  |  |
|  | Belle Isle S |  |  |
|  | Fastnet |  |  |
|  | Kinsale |  |  |
|  | Cork SW | Roche | Crosshaven | 1810
|  | Land’s End | Lizard | Falmouth | 1946
|  | Monks | Brest W | Brest | 1930
|  | 48°19.5’N, 4°46.5’W | 48°19.5’N, 4°37.0’W | 48°21.0’N, 4°29.0’W |

The prevailing westerly winds and east-setting current will ensure good sailing conditions along the various routes bound for ports in Northern Europe, providing some compensation for a cold, wet and foggy passage at the best of times. There are two alternatives: to sail a route that stays close to the great circle route but includes some of the recommended intermediate waypoints, or opt for a southern route, which, depending on the port of departure, may use Bermuda as an intermediate stop.

Having chosen the great circle route, some of the problems that affect this northernmost route must be considered first. The two main causes of concern on this passage are fog and ice. Both are linked to the Labrador Current, a cold current flowing south along the coasts of Newfoundland and Nova Scotia. The Labrador Current meets the Gulf Stream over the Grand Banks, the combination of the two currents producing heavy fog. The Labrador Current also carries icebergs south during the summer. As the North Atlantic warms up with the advance of summer, fog becomes less frequent and the icebergs begin melting, although they sometimes drift as far south as latitude 40ºN. Therefore late summer appears to be safer and the best time for this passage is August. This might be too late for those who intend to do some cruising in Northern Europe during the same summer and the alternative is to leave earlier and brave those risks or take a more southerly route.

The great circle route from US ports passes south of Nova Scotia and Newfoundland from where it splits into a northern branch, going to Scotland and Scandinavia, and a southern branch to Southern Ireland and the English Channel. The most difficult part of the great circle route is the first few hundred miles, until the concentration of fishing boats on the Grand Banks has been left behind, and also the area with the highest risk of fog and icebergs, close to Newfoundland. For all the above reasons, but also because better sailing conditions will be found further south, the great circle course should not be joined before meridian 55ºW is passed. Naturally, if conditions warrant it, the great circle course to the port of destination can be joined earlier, but in the absence of reliable weather information, it may be safer to sail a more southerly route.

A great circle route can be set from the suggested Banks waypoint, although in late spring or early summer the course may have to be adjusted to pass south of the Grand Banks, to avoid the risk of ice, and stay on this latitude until longitude 55ºW is reached. From that point onward the risk of ice is much lower and the course may be set for Bishop’s Rock south of the Scilly Isles in the SW extremity of England. From there, the route continues to Falmouth, which is the most convenient English landfall at the end of an Atlantic passage. A more southerly route would continue across the Bay Biscay to make landfall at the Vieux Moins lighthouse in the approaches to Brest. The attractive Brittany port has excellent facilities, several marinas and is a perfect introduction to the beauty of France. Marina du Chateau is the most conveniently located to complete entry formalities.

Passages bound for destinations in Northern Europe should follow the same route, and once the Grand Banks have been safely passed, a direct course can be sailed that will pass west of Ireland to either make landfall in Scotland for those bound for Western Scotland or the Caledonian Canal, or the more northerly route taken over the top of Scotland to destinations in Norway.

A waypoint has been set south of Dubh Artach light in the approaches to the Firth of Lorn and the port of Oban. Those intending to reach the North Sea and Scandinavia via the Caledonian Canal can continue through Loch Linhe to Fort William at the entrance to the canal.

Boats bound for the very north of Scotland should set a course that clears the small islands of Saint Kilda and Boreray in the Outer Hebrides. A course to the next waypoint will pass west of the Flannan Isles, which are marked by a light. The route continues north of the Butt of Lewis and the Orkney Islands to reach the North Sea, and a choice of destinations in the Shetlands or Norway.

This northern route may also be sailed by voyages which have originated in the Great Lakes and have reached the open ocean through the Strait of Belle Isle. The start point is Savage Cove, a sheltered cove on the NW coast of Newfoundland, now home to a small community and a fish processing plant. The departure point is set south of the island that gave the strait its name. The advantage of such a high-latitude route is that it stays clear of the Grand Banks and associated hazards, but carries the risk of encountering ice and therefore should be sailed later in summer. See also route AN79 on ice conditions.

The initial course for boats leaving from Halifax on an eastbound passage leads south of Sable Island and surrounding shoals. Boats leaving from St John’s, Newfoundland are so far within the ice zone that passages early in the season are unwise. Later in the season, when the risk of ice has abated, eastbound passages from St John’s can join a great circle route directly. As the ice situation changes from year to year, it is advisable to be alert in those latitudes, even in summer, as there can be stray icebergs about.

The winds in late spring and early summer will be SW or W from 15 to 25 knots. The frequency of gales in July and August is low for these latitudes and calms are rare. As the route passes well to the north of the Azores High, the weather should be outside of its direct influence but will be affected by the depressions moving east across the Atlantic and producing gale force winds. The advantage of sailing a more southerly route is that the frequency of gales is lower, but the temptation of going too far south should be resisted because of the danger of losing the westerlies as the route intersects the Azores High, which extends furthest north in summer. Hurricanes rarely affect this route east of Bermuda, but passages in lower latitudes are nevertheless discouraged in late summer.

• AN142 North America to Mediterranean

BEST TIME: | May to June |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4011, US 11 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A6 Voyages from North | America |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Straits Sailing Handbook. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Norfolk X | Bay | Chesapeake |  |  | Gibraltar 3438
36°58.0’N, 76°22.0’W | 37°02.5’N, 76°04.0’W | 36°42.0’N, 74°48.0’W |  |  |
Newport X | Newport S | Rhode SE |  |  | 3168
41°29.0’N, 71°20.0’W | 41°06.5’N, 71°22.0’W | 40°21.0’N, 70°16.5’W |  |  |
Halifax X | Sambro | Nova |  |  | 2739
44°38.0’N, 63°34.0’W | 44°27.0’N, 63°26.5’W | 44°06.0’N, 63°05.0’W |  |  |
St John’s X | Spear | Terra |  |  | 2281
47°34.0’N, 52°40.0’W | 47°31.5’N, 52°34.2’W | 46°37.0’N, 52°23.0’W |  |  |
|  | Vincent SW |  |  |
|  | 37°00.0’N, 9°12.0’W |  |  |
|  | Hoyo |  |  |
|  | 36°04’N, 6°20.0’ W |  |  |
|  | Tarifa |  |  |
|  | 35°59.5’N, 5°36.5’W |  |  |
|  | Acebuche | Gibraltar | Ocean Village |
|  | 36°02.5’N, 5°27.0’W | 36°07.5’N, 5°23.0’W | 36°09’N, 5°21’W |
|  |  |  | Queensway Marina |
|  |  |  | 36°08’N, 5°21’W |
|  |  | Europa Point |  |
|  |  | 36°05’N, 5°20.5’W |  |

The suggestions made in AN141 for the initial stages of a southern passage to ports in Northern Europe are also valid for passages to the Mediterranean. As better conditions can be expected in the area of prevailing westerly winds around latitude 40ºN, regardless of the point of departure, the route should stay as close as possible to this latitude until the Azores are passed. In May and early June, when most passages along this route are made, this will ensure that most easting will be made north of the Azores High. Passages from ports north of Cape Hatteras should be sailed nonstop on a route that passes north of Bermuda. Unless there is a good reason to stop there, the passage should stay within the area of prevailing westerlies until the point is reached where the course can be altered for Cape St Vincent. This tactic is even more important during later summer passages when the risk of hurricanes is less likely in higher latitudes.

From Cape St Vincent the course is altered for the Strait of Gibraltar to pass south of Hoyo Bank, at the SW extremity of the shallows off Cape Trafalgar. The next waypoint to make for is south of Tarifa Island. A course parallel to the Spanish coast will stay inside the west-going shipping lane until the Bay of Gibraltar is reached.

Passages to the Mediterranean from ports south of Cape Hatteras may be interrupted in Bermuda, in which case route AN115 should be consulted for more details. For boats that have stopped in the Azores, the continuation of the voyage to Gibraltar is described in route AN134.

Boats bound for the Mediterranean should refer to route AN16 for details on tactics for negotiating the Strait of Gibraltar and also ME1 (here).

• AN143 North America to Bermuda

BEST TIME: | May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4013, US 11 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Bermuda Discovered. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN143A |  |  |  |  |
Norfolk X 36°58.0’N, 76°22.0’W | Bay 37°02.5’N, 76°04.0’W | Chesapeake 36°42.0’N, 74°48.0’W Bermuda SW 32°15.0’N, 65°3.0’W Bermuda S 32°13.0’N, 64°50.0’W |  |  |
|  | Bermuda SE 32°20.5’N, 64°39.0’W | Bermuda E 32°22.0’N, 64°38.0’W | St George’s 32°22.7’N, 64°39.8’W |   659
Route AN143B |  |  |  |  |
New York X 40°42.0’N, 74°0.0’W | New York SE 40°07.5’N, 73°21.0’W |  |  |  |   688
Newport X 41°29.0’N, 71°20.0’W | Newport S 41°06.5’N, 71°22.0’W | Rhode SE 40°21.0’N, 70°16.5’W |  |  |   646
Halifax X 44°38.0’N, 63°34.0’W | Sambro 44°27.0’N, 63°26.5’W | Nova 44°06.0’N, 63°05.0’W |  |  |  747
St John’s X 47°34.0’N, 52°40.0’W | Spear 47°31.5’N, 52°34.2’W | Terra 46°37.0’N, 52°23.0’W |  |  |   1092
|  | Bermuda N |  |  |
|  | 32°31.0’N, 64°41.0’W |  |  |
|  | Bermuda NE 32°26.5’N, 64°34.0’W | Bermuda E | St George’s |

According to the latest pilot charts for June, the prevailing winds on the direct route to Bermuda are predominantly from SW. This means that passages from northern ports will be hard on the wind. Even for those which originate in more southerly ports, this may end up as a close-hauled passage. Provided that a favourable forecast has been obtained before leaving, and there are no strong northerly winds predicted, the crossing of the Gulf Stream should present no problems.

In early summer the weather is usually pleasant. The occasional depression arriving from the mainland can produce squalls and rough seas, but, at the recommended time, they are the exception rather than the rule. Later in summer particular attention must be paid to hurricanes as their tracks usually pass between Bermuda and the mainland. Because of this risk, passages to Bermuda after the middle of June are not recommended. September and October are the months with the highest incidence of hurricanes. Although the danger of hurricanes diminishes after the end of October, from early November onwards there is an increasing risk of being caught by an early winter norther, which can produce extremely rough conditions when blowing against the Gulf Stream. Therefore passages in November should be carefully timed and the weather developing over the mainland watched closely.

Regardless of the port of departure, the Gulf Stream should be crossed at right angles, and once clear of its influence, boats from northern ports can set a course to make landfall NW of Rock Point, from where the coast is followed to the channel leading into St George’s Harbour. Boats arriving from SW should make their landfall off Gibbs Hill at Bermuda’s SW point.

Arriving boats must contact Bermuda Radio prior to making landfall and give an ETA. The first contact should be attempted when 30 miles from the island. The station is on call 24 hours on 2182 kHz, 4125 kHz, and VHF channels 16 and 27. A yacht pre-arrival information questionnaire needs to be completed online at http://www.marops.bm/of_visitingyacht.aspx.

• AN144 North America to Azores and mainland Europe

BEST TIME: | May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4011, US 11 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A10 Voyages from North America |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Islands. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
St John’s X | Spear | Terra |  |  | Lajes/Horta 1098/1233
47°34.0’N, 52°40.0’W | 47°31.5’N, 52°34.2’W | 46°37.0’N, 52°23.0’W |  |  |
Halifax X | Sambro | Nova |  |  | 1500/1635
44°38.0’N, 63°34.0’W | 44°27.0’N, 63°26.5’W | 44°06.0’N, 63°05.0’W |  |  |
Newport X | Newport S | Rhode SE |  |  | 1896/2031
41°29.0’N, 71°20.0’W | 41°06.5’N, 71°22.0’W | 40°21.0’N, 70°16.5’W |  |  |
New York X | New York SE |  |  |  | 1999/2134
40°42.0’N, 74°0.0’W | 40°07.5’N, 73°21.0’W |  |  |  |
Norfolk X | Bay | Chesapeake |  |  | 2146/2281
36°58.0’N, 76°22.0’W | 37°02.5’N, 76°04.0’W | 36°42.0’N, 74°48.0’W |  |  |
|  | Flores SW | Flores SE | Lajes |
|  | 39°20.5’N, 31°17.0’W | 39°21.8’N, 31°9.7’W | 39°22.8’N, 31°0.9’W |
|  | Faial N |  |  |
|  | 38°40.0’N, 28°42.0’W |  |  |
|  | Faial NE | Faial E | Horta |
|  | 38°36.0’N, 28°35.0’W | 38°32.5’N, 28°35.5’W | 38°32.1’N, 28°37.0’W |

The advantage of this direct route to the Azores over route AN125, which originates in Bermuda, is that the area of prevailing westerly winds can be reached sooner. Boats leaving from ports to the south of Cape Hatteras should ride the Gulf Stream to latitude 39ºN or 40ºN before turning east once steady westerly winds have been found. For boats leaving from ports east of New York, such as Newport, the area of prevailing westerlies will be reached sooner, although one should stay clear of the Nantucket Shoals. If conditions are favourable, an easterly course can be sailed until Flores, the westernmost island in the Azores, is reached. Boats bound for Lajes, on the SE coast of Flores, should make landfall off Ponta do Ilheus, the SW extremity of Flores, and then follow the south coast of the island to Lajes. The improvements to Lajes have made it an attractive first port of call into the Azores. If bound directly for Horta, which continues to be the favourite Azorean destination, the course should be held to pass north of Corvo and Flores. Landfall is made N of Faial, from where the contour of the island is followed to Horta Marina. While approaching Horta from the north, allowance should be made for a strong contrary current in the channel between Faial and Pico.

From May to July, mostly SW winds can be expected for the first part of the passage. The danger of early hurricanes should be borne in mind, especially if leaving from southern ports, but up to the middle of July the risk is reasonably low. A rhumb line course along a southerly route is only recommended if one is prepared to motor through the area of calms and variable winds that may be encountered in those latitudes. Directions for such a direct route are similar to those for the route from the Lesser Antilles to the Azores and mainland Europe (route AN79).

For boats leaving from Canadian ports, whether in Nova Scotia or Newfoundland, a late-spring start is not recommended as there is still a risk of ice in those latitudes. Later in summer there is the risk of hurricanes whose effects may be felt even in higher latitudes and as far east as the Azores.

• AN145 North America to Eastern Caribbean

BEST TIME: | Late November |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4013, US 13 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A2a Voyages to the Eastern Caribbean |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to the Virgin Islands, Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands, Sailors Guide to the Windward Islands.
WAYPOINTS: Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN145A St John’s X | Spear | Terra |  |  | 1886
47°34.0’N, 52°40.0’W | 47°31.5’N, 52°34.2’W | 46°37.0’N, 52°23.0’W |  |  |
Halifax X | Sambro | Nova |  |  | 1596
44°38.0’N, 63°34.0’W | 44°27.0’N, 63°26.5’W | 44°06.0’N, 63°05.0’W |  |  |
Newport X | Newport S | Rhode SE |  |  | 1437
41°29.0’N, 71°20.0’W | 41°06.5’N, 71°22.0’W | 40°21.0’N, 70°16.5’W |  |  |
New York X | New York SE |  |  |  | 1441
40°42.0’N, 74°0.0’W | 40°07.5’N, 73°21.0’W |  |  |  |
Norfolk X | Bay | Chesapeake |  |  | 1311
36°58.0’N, 76°22.0’W | 37°02.5’N, 76°04.0’W | 36°42.0’N, 74°48.0’W |  |  |
Morehead City | Lookout | Virgins N |  |  | 1177
34 °40.7’N, 76°40.8’W | 34°33.7’N, 76°42.0’W | 18°26.0’N, 65°05.0’W Savana N 18°22.0’N, 65°05.0’W Savana S 18°19.5’N, 65°02.5’W Porpoise 18°18.3’N, 64°59’W | Thomas SW 18°18.0’N, 64°56.0’W | Charlotte Amalie 18°19.8’N, 64 °55.7’W |
Route AN145B |  |  |  |  | V Gorda/R Harbour
St John’s X | Spear | Terra |  |  | 1861/1867
Halifax X | Sambro | Nova |  |  | 1580/1586
Newport X | Newport S | Rhode SE |  |  | 1430/1436
New York X | New York SE |  |  |  | 1435/1440
Norfolk X | Bay | Chesapeake |  |  | 1308/1313
Morehead City | Lookout | Virgins NE | Virgin Gorda W | Virgin Gorda | 1179/1185
|  | 18°30.0’N, 64°30.7’W Scrub E 18°28.0’N, 64°29.7’W Beef S 18°25.5’N, 64°31.0’W | 18°27.0’N, 64°26.7’W Tortola S 18°24.3’N, 64°35.0’W | 18°27.0’N, 64°26.2’W Road Harbour 18°24.8’N, 64°36.3’W |
Route AN145C |  |  |  |  |
St John’s X | Spear | Terra |  |  | 1865
Halifax X | Sambro | Nova |  |  | 1604
Newport X | Newport S | Rhode SE |  |  | 1474
New York X | New York SE |  |  |  | 1478
Norfolk X | Bay | Chesapeake |  |  | 1358
Morehead City | Lookout | Sombrero W |  |  | 1235
|  | 18°36.0’N, 63°36.0’W West 18°17.0’N, 63°18.0’W Anguilla W 18°09.5’N, 63°12.0’W Maarten SW 18°03.5’N, 63°10.5’W | Martin W 18°06.0’N, 63°08.0’W Maarten SE 18°00.5’N, 63°03.6’W | St Martin 18°05.0’N, 63°06.0’W Philipsburg 18°01.3’N, 63°02.7’W |

There are several alternatives to reach either the Virgin Islands or Lesser Antilles from ports on the east coast of the USA and Canada, and the ultimate choice depends mainly on the type of boat and the experience of the crew. If the voyage starts from any port east of New York, a stop in Bermuda can be contemplated as it does not greatly lengthen the distance. However, as the frequency of gales in November around Bermuda is rather high, such a detour may not be necessarily the wisest choice. One solution is to make the passage to Bermuda earlier, spend some time there and carry on to the Virgins or Lesser Antilles later in the year. Directions for southbound passages from Bermuda are described in route AN126.

For passages to the Eastern Caribbean, November is a transitional month between the end of the hurricane season and the approach of winter weather. Because of the risk of a late hurricane, passages on any of these routes should not be attempted before the latter part of November. The latest to occur was hurricane Iota, which reached category 5 strength on 15 November 2020.

During the late-autumn/early-winter months gales and storms with associated frontal systems occur in this area further south than during summer. Both their strength and frequency increase with the advance of winter, with shorter favourable intervals between them. The high-pressure ridge drifts from around 35ºN to near 30ºN and occasionally, in association with approaching frontal systems, will move as far south as 25ºN. If a low-pressure system develops south of 30ºN, which is not unusual for November, the high may drift close to 20ºN and stall there for several days. A reliable five-day forecast should be obtained before a passage so that the Gulf Stream is crossed in favourable conditions and the latitude of Bermuda is passed before conditions deteriorate.

Once south of Bermuda, and depending on the location of the ridge, trade winds can be expected south of the ridge. As SE winds can be expected initially while passing south of the ridge, it is advisable to get close to, or even east of, 65ºW. Heading south towards the Leeward Islands, those SE winds will gradually back to E and NE and turn into steady trade winds. Occasionally a developing depression or strong frontal system can extend to the Mona Passage, with the winds veering to SW, W, NW and NE as the system passes.

Boats bound for St Thomas, in the US Virgin Islands (AN145A), should make their landfall north of the island. From there, the route turns south for the Savana Passage in the approaches to Charlotte Amalie on St Thomas Island. Boats bound for the British Virgins should make landfall NE of Great Camanoe Island at the northern entrance into the Sir Francis Drake Channel. Entry formalities can be completed at Road Harbour on Tortola and Spanish Town on Virgin Gorda.

The landfall for boats sailing to the Lesser Antilles is at the Sombrero light in the approaches to the Anegada Passage. From there, boats bound for St Martin should set a course for the entrance into St Martin’s Marigot Bay. Entry formalities can be completed on the French side of the island at Marina Fort Louis or Marina Port Royale. Those who prefer to complete entry formalities with the Dutch authorities in the south of the island can do so at either Great Bay or Simpson Bay.

Rather than take one of the offshore routes described above, the alternative is to make the initial part of the voyage through the Intracoastal Waterway. This can be done during the summer so that one is ready to go offshore as soon as the hurricane season has come to an end. Having reached a port south of Cape Hatteras, such as Beaufort, it is strongly recommended to go offshore so as to sail a route that stays well north of the Bahamas. Leaving with a favourable forecast, a course should be steered to cross the Gulf Stream as quickly as possible, after which, if the winds are favourable, a course should be set for the Virgins. In November, northerly winds predominate along this route but become increasingly NE and E south of 28ºN, so it is essential to make some easting while still north of that latitude.

Whereas a direct offshore route to the Eastern Caribbean from a port such as Beaufort may be feasible, trying to do the same from ports in Florida will entail much windward work as the winds become more easterly in lower latitudes. This is the reason why those intending to reach the Eastern Caribbean by an offshore route are urged to avoid leaving on such a passage from ports south of North Carolina. Routes from Florida to the Eastern Caribbean are described in AN113.

SailClear is a unified system developed by the Caribbean Customs Law Enforcement Council. The system is available in Dominican Republic, Curaçao, Cayman Islands, Bermuda, Grenada, Saint Lucia, Saint Kitts, and Nevis, British Virgin Islands, Montserrat, Dominica, Anguilla, Turks and Caicos Islands. By registering in advance, SailClear allows users to enter and update information about their vessel and crew while travelling between participating islands. http://www.sailclear.com.

• AN146 North America to Bahamas

BEST TIME: | April to May, late November |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4013, US 13 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Northern Bahamas, Southern Bahamas. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN146A |  |  |  |  |
Charleston | Charles | Abaco NE | Man of War | Marsh Harbour |   422
32°45.0’N, 79°51.5’W | 32°36.7’N, 79°35.0’W | 26°35.0’N, 76°50.0’W | 26°38.1’N, 77°00.7’W | 26°32.4’N, 77°04.0’W |
|  | Abaco S 25°47.0’N, 77°10.8’W | Rock 25°59.0’N, 77°25.5’W | Sandy Point 26°01.0’N, 77°24.0’W |   506
|  | San Salvador NW 24°11.5 ‘N, 74°34.5’W |  | San Salvador 24°02.7’N, 74°33.0’W |   596
Route AN146B |  |  |  |  |
Morehead City | Lookout | Abaco NE | Man of War | Marsh Harbour |   502
34 °40.7’N, 76°40.8’W | 34°33.7’N, 76°42.0’W |  |  |  |
|  | Abaco S 25°47.0’N, 77°10.8’W | Rock | Sandy Point |   585
|  | San Salvador NW |  | San Salvador |   648
Route AN146C |  |  |  |  |
Norfolk X 36°58.0’N, 76°22.0’W | Bay 37°02.5’N, 76°04.0’W | Chesapeake 36°42.0’N, 74°48.0’W Hatteras SE 35°09.0’N, 74°45.0’W |  |  |
|  | Abaco NE | Man of War | Marsh Harbour |   630
Route AN146D |  |  |  |  |
New York X 40°42.0’N, 74°0.0’W Newport X 41°29.0’N, 71°20.0’W Halifax X 44°38.0’N, 63°34.0’W | New York SE 40°07.5’N, 73°21.0’W Newport S 41°06.5’N, 71°22.0’W Sambro 44°27.0’N, 63°26.5’W | Rhode SE 40°21.0’N, 70°16.5’W Nova 44°06.0’N, 63°05.0’W |  |  |
|  | Abaco NE | Man of War | Marsh Harbour | 897/953/1300

Whether setting off from a port in Northern Florida or as far north as New York, the Gulf Stream can make offshore passages to the Bahamas a daunting undertaking. For this reason, more sailors take the easier option of making their southing via the Intracoastal Waterway and then pick the most convenient place to cross over to the Bahamas from a port south of Cape Hatteras. Those who are determined to take the offshore option, or whose masts are too high for the Intracoastal Waterway, where the maximum height is 65 ft (20 m), should be prepared to move out of coastal waters and across the Gulf Stream as soon as possible. Once well clear of the Gulf Stream, a course can be sailed for the port of destination, whether to Great Abaco for those interested in cruising the Northern or Central Bahamas, or San Salvador, which is a good place to start a cruise in the Outer and Southern Bahamas.

There is a fairly narrow window for such an offshore passage and the recommended time is late November. An earlier start carries the risk of hurricanes, whereas a later start runs the risk of the winter northers, which can produce dangerous conditions in the Gulf Stream. A long-term forecast obtained before departure should give warning of any tropical depressions or impending northers. Weather conditions for that time of year are described in AN145.

Boats leaving from Newfoundland or Nova Scotia can make an earlier start to benefit from better weather, and as Bermuda is quite close to the direct course, a stop there would allow them to wait for the most favourable conditions to continue their voyage. Calling at Bermuda would make no sense to those departing from Chesapeake Bay, not only because of the long detour, but also because they only need a three-day forecast to pick the most favourable conditions for the considerably shorter passage.

Marsh Harbour on the east coast of Great Abaco is the best place of arrival for boats coming from the north as it is easily reached and has a wide range of repair and service facilities, as well as several marinas. Arriving boats should fly the Q flag and inform customs on VHF about their location, whether at anchor or in one of the marinas.

The other recommended landfall is the island of San Salvador, conveniently located on the eastern edge of the Bahamas and a perfect place to start exploring the outer islands of the archipelago or perhaps just to make a brief stop for those on the way to either Panama or the Western Caribbean. The small Riding Rock Marina, about one mile north of the capital Cockburn Town, is a good place to leave the boat while dealing with entry formalities. Both customs and immigration offices are at the airport. Compared to Marsh Harbour facilities are very limited, but San Salvador more than makes up for that by its association with Columbus’s first landfall in the New World.

• AN147 North America to Panama

BEST TIME: | December to May (southern routes), May (northern routes) |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4013, US 13 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A2d Voyages to Panama |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Panama Cruising Guide. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN147A |  |  |  |  |
Morehead City 34°40.7’N, 76 °40.8’W | Lookout 34°33.7’N, 76°42.0’W | San Salvador NW 24°11.5 ‘N, 74°34.5’W Salvador W 24°03.0’N, 74°36.0’W Crooked 22°53.0’N, 74°34.0’W Mira 22°05.0’N, 74°24.0’W |  | San Salvador 24 °02.7’N, 74 °33.0’W |   648
|  | Inagua SW 20°54.0’N, 73°41.0’W Cuba NE 20°40.0’N, 74°00.0’W Cuba E 20°10.0’N, 73°57.0’W Navassa W 18°25.0’N, 75°08.0’W |  | Matthew 20°56.0’N, 73°41.0’W |  854
|  | Jamaica SE | Chichime | Porvenir | 1726
|  | 17°16.0’N, 75°56.0’W | 9°37.0’N, 78°53.0’W | 9°33.5’N, 78°56.0’W |
|  | Farallones 9°40.0’N, 79°38.5’W | Cristobal N 9°26.5’N, 79°54.5’W | Cristobal 9°23.3’N, 79 °55.1’W | 1652
Route AN147B |  |  |  |  |
Norfolk X 36°58.0’N, 76°22.0’W | Bay 37°02.5’N, 76°04.0’W | Chesapeake 36°42.0’N, 74°48.0’W Hatteras SE 35°09.0’N, 74°45.0’W |  |  |
|  | San Salvador NW San Salvador W Crooked Mira |  | San Salvador |   810
|  | Inagua SW Cuba NE |  | Matthew |   1015
|  | Cuba E |  |  |
|  | Navassa W |  |  |
|  | Jamaica SE | Chichime | Porvenir |   1838
|  | Farallones | Cristobal N | Cristobal |   1764
Route AN147C |  |  |  |  | Porvenir/Cristobal
St John’s | Spear | Terra |  |  | 2715/2685
47°34.0’N, 52°40.0’W | 47°31.5’N, 52°34.2’W | 46°37.0’N, 52°23.0’W |  |  |
Halifax | Sambro | Nova |  |  | 2209/2319
44°38.0’N, 63°34.0’W | 44°27.0’N, 63°26.5’W | 44°06.0’N, 63°5.0’W |  |  |
Newport | Newport S | Rhode SE |  |  | 1999/2032
41°29.0’N, 71°20.0’W | 41°06.5’N, 71°22.0’W | 40°21.0’N, 70°16.5’W |  |  |
New York | New York SE | Caicos NW |  |  | 1955/1988
40°42.0’N, 74 °0.0’W | 40°07.5’N, 73°21.0’W | 22°16.0’N, 72°22.0’W |  |  |
|  | Caicos W |  |  |
|  | 21°30.0’N, 72°44.0’W |  |  |
|  | Haiti NW |  |  |
|  | 20°00.0’N, 73°27.0’W |  |  |
|  | Navassa E |  |  |
|  | 18°24.0’N, 74°54.0’W |  |  |
|  | Jamaica SE | Chichime | Porvenir |
|  | Farallones | Cristobal N | Cristobal |

There are three alternative routes to Panama, two from the US (AN147A, AN147B) and one from Canada (AN147C), all reaching the Caribbean Sea through the Windward Passage. The first will appeal to those who prefer to visit some of the Bahamas on the way south, whereas the other two are more direct, and will appeal to those sailing from more northern ports.

The best times are at the change of seasons and the recommended Bahamian landfalls are described in AN146. Whether sailing there nonstop or calling at Bermuda, the most convenient landfall is at San Salvador. Continuing south from there, the route heads south via the Crooked Passage, passing west of Acklins Island and through the Mira-Por-Vos Passage to reach the Windward Passage.

Route AN147B makes landfall further east to reach the Windward Passage through the Caicos Passage by passing east of Great Inagua Island. Those who wish to stop will find a range of facilities in the Caicos Islands within easy reach. Facilities on Providenciales cover a wide range, with good services, provisioning and an international airport.

The route across the Caribbean Sea stays east of Jamaica and the reefs south of that island. The Colombian islands of Providencia and San Andrés provide an attractive detour along this route, as described in route AN91D. Landfall in Panama is made at the start of the long channel leading to the Panama Canal. Boats approaching the breakwaters at the entrance into Cristobal should call Traffic Control on channel 12. Traffic lights regulate the passage between the breakwaters, but small boats may pass if they keep close to the side, both when passing through the breakwaters and in the shipping channels. Further details about the Panama Canal are given on here. An interesting detour, for those who can delay their transit, is the San Blas Islands. To reach them, a slightly more easterly course needs to be sailed to make landfall at the entrance into the channel leading to Porvenir, where formalities can be completed.

The best time to sail any of these passages depends on the port of departure and time of year. Shorter passages, such as those starting from Florida or south of the Chesapeake Bay have more flexibility, whereas those starting from further north have a much narrower window. The former can sail virtually throughout the safe season, with May and early June having the best sailing conditions. Favourable winds will continue throughout the winter although the strong trade winds and high swell can make sailing in the Western Caribbean uncomfortable at the height of the trade wind season.

May is also a good time for passages from further north, but the risk of an early hurricane in June must be taken into account. As wintery conditions might be experienced if waiting to sail south in late November, at the end of the hurricane season, the alternative would be to sail part of this passage in summer, and complete it when it is safe.

• AN148 North America to Western Caribbean

BEST TIME: | December to May (southern routes), May (northern routes) |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4013, US 13 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A2c Voyages to WesternCaribbean |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Northern Bahamas, Southern Bahamas, Cruising Guide to Belize and Mexico’s Caribbean Coast, Northwest Caribbean.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN148A |  |  |  |  |
Norfolk X | Bay | Chesapeake |  |  |
36°58.0’N, 76°22.0’W | 37°02.5’N, 76°04.0’W | 36°42.0’N, 74°48.0’W Hatteras SE 35°09.0’N, 74°45.0’W |  |  |
Morehead City | Lookout | San Salvador NW |  | San Salvador | 810/648
34°40.7’N, 76 °40.8’W | 34°33.7’N, 76°42.0’W | 24°11.5 ‘N, 74°34.5’W San Salvador W 24°03.0’N, 74°36.0’W Crooked 22°53.0’N, 74°34.0’W Mira 22°05.0’N, 74°24.0’WInagua SW 20°54.0’N, 73°41.0’W |  | 24 °02.7’N, 74 °33.0’WMatthew 20°56.0’N, 73°41.0’W | 1015/854
|  | Cuba NE |  |  |
|  | 20°40.0’N, 74°00.0’W Cuba E 20°10.0’N, 73°57.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cuba SE | Morillo | Santiago de Cuba | 1192/1001
|  | 19°58.0’N, 74°13.0’W | 19°57.0’N, 75°52.0’W | 19 °58.0’N, 75°52.5’W |
|  | Cuba SW |  |  |
|  | 19°33.0’N, 78°00.0’W |  |  |
|  | Brac S |  |  |
|  | 19°30.0’N, 79°45.0’WCozumel S 20°11.0’N, 87°00.0’W | Cozumel W 20°23.5’N, 87°03.0’W | Cozumel 20°30.0’N, 86°58.5’W | 1880/1689
|  | Cuba SW |  |  |
|  | Cayman S 38°36.0’N, 09°24.0’W | Ambergris 17°57.5’N, 87°50.0’WMauger 17°40.0’N, 87°46.0’W | San Pedro 17°56.0’N, 87°56.0’WBelize City 17°20.0’N, 88°02.5’W | 1898/17071925/1734
Route AN148B |  |  |  |  |
St John’s X 47°34.0’N, 52°40.0’W Halifax X 44°38.0’N, 63°34.0’W New York X 40°42.0’N, 74 °0.0’WNewport X 41°29.0’N, 71°20.0’W Norfolk X | Spear 47°31.5’N, 52°34.2’W Sambro 44°27.0’N, 63°26.5’W New York SE 40°07.5’N, 73°21.0’WNewport S 41°06.5’N, 71°22.0’W Bay | Terra 46°37.0’N, 52°23.0’W Nova 44°06.0’N, 63°5.0’WRhode SE 40°21.0’N, 70°16.5’W Chesapeake |  |  |
Morehead City | Lookout | Caicos NW |  |  |
|  | 22°16.0’N, 72°22.0’W Caicos W 21°30.0’N, 72°44.0’W |  |  |

|  |  |  |  |  |  | Inagua S |  |
|  |  |  |  |  |  | 20°50.0’N, 73°06.0’W |  |
|  |  |  |  |  |  | Cuba E |  |
|  |  |  |  |  |  | Cuba SE |  |
|  |  |  |  |  |  | Jamaica N | Montego | Montego Bay
|  |  |  |  |  |  | 18°33.0’N, 77°56.0’W | 18°29.0’N, 77°57.0’W | 18°28.2’N, 77°55.6’W
|  |  |  |  |  |  | Jamaica NW |  |
|  |  |  |  |  |  | 18°28.5’N, 78°14.0’W |  |
Distances | Montego Bay | Bonacca | Roatan | Livingston | Punta Gorda | Placencia | Swan S |  |
|  |  |  |  |  |  | 17°00.0’N, 83°55.0’W |  |
|  |  |  |  |  |  | Honduras N | Guanaja | Bonacca
St John’s | 2235 | 2706 | 2747 | 2880 | 2878 | 2914 | 16°41.0’N, 85°11.0’W | 16°29.5’N, 85°46.0’W | 16°26.0’N, 85°51.0’W
Halifax | 1839 | 2311 | 2351 | 2484 | 2482 | 2518 | Roatan NE | Roatan SE | Roatan
New York | 1505 | 1977 | 2017 | 2150 | 2148 | 2184 | 16°35.0’N, 85°56.0’W | 16°23.5’N, 86°05.0’W | 16°18.0’N, 86°29.0’W
Newport | 1549 | 2021 | 2061 | 2194 | 2192 | 2228 | Amatique | Dulce | Livingston
|  |  |  |  |  |  | 16°00.0’N, 88°38.0’W | 15°51.0’N, 88°44.0’W | 15°49.5’N, 88°44.5’W
Norfolk | 1328 | 1800 | 1840 | 1973 | 1971 | 2007 | Barrier SW | Gorda E | Punta Gorda
Morehead City | 1137 | 1609 | 2121 | 1782 | 1780 | 1816 | 16°00.0’N, 88°19.0’W | 16°05.0’N, 88°42.0’W | 16°05.7’N, 88°47.8’W
|  |  |  |  |  |  |  | East Snake | Placencia
|  |  |  |  |  |  |  | 16°12.5’N, 88°28.0’W | 16°31.0’N, 88°22.0’W

Tactics on these routes are similar to those in AN147. Shorter passages, such as those starting from south of the Chesapeake Bay, can be sailed throughout the safe season, whereas those starting from further north have a much narrower choice. Boats leaving from any port north of Florida will find it easier to reach destinations in the Western Caribbean, as well as Jamaica and the Cayman Islands, by sailing through the Windward Passage and continuing south of Cuba. In effect, this is an extension of route AN147, whose directions should be followed as far as the Southern Bahamas. Matthew Town, on Great Inagua, is the largest settlement in the Southern Bahamas and makes a good port where the voyage may be interrupted if necessary. The other alternative is to sail a more easterly route that uses the Caicos and Windward Passages to reach the Caribbean Sea.

Having sailed through the Windward Passage, the routes turn west and, depending on the destination in the Western Caribbean, splits into a northern branch (AN148A) that runs parallel to the south coast of Cuba towards the Yucatan Peninsula, and a southern branch that passes north of Jamaica to destinations in the Gulf of Honduras (AN148B). Which of these routes is chosen should be determined by future plans as those who intend to return home at the end of their Central American cruise should start it in the very south of that area and then make their way north. A similar decision is even more important for those who intend to sail later to Panama as sailing out of the Gulf of Honduras against the strong trade winds and contrary current can be a daunting task. This can be somewhat ameliorated by starting off from a more northern point, whether in North Belize or even further north such as Cozumel, from where the subsequent southbound passage will benefit from a better sailing angle.

Passages along Cuba’s south coast may be interrupted at Santiago de Cuba. This is the nearest port of entry along this route, and as all visiting boats must clear into Cuba at an international marina, those who wish to stop in Cuba can complete formalities here. Otherwise the route continues west to clear Cuba’s Punta Cruz and pass south of Cayman Brac. Boats bound for Cozumel should set a course for Punta Elerain at the island’s SE extremity. The SW and W coasts should be followed to Puerto Cozumel. The port captain, who will give instructions regarding clearance procedures, should be contacted on channel 16.

The route for boats bound directly for Northern Belize passes south of the Cayman Islands. Several shoals will be passed where the route crosses meridian 84º. Rough seas may be experienced in this area during periods of sustained trade winds. A first landfall can be made at Ambergris Cay on Belize’s Barrier Reef. The San Pedro Pass leads to the town of the same name where entry formalities are completed. San Pedro Yacht Club assists visiting yachts and should be contacted on channel 16 for directions.

Those who prefer to sail directly to Belize City should make landfall just north of Mauger Cay. The reef-strewn approaches to Belize City should be approached only in daylight and preferably before noon, so as to have the sun from behind. The Eastern Channel is the main pass into Belize City. The port captain should be contacted on channel 16 for clearance procedures.

Boats bound for the Gulf of Honduras on route AN148B will sail close to Jamaica’s north coast, where Montego Bay provides a convenient stop as it has a marina with good repair facilities and also an international airport with regular flights to the USA and Europe.

Having reached the Gulf of Honduras, there is a wide choice of destinations within easy reach, including Honduras, Guatemala or Southern Belize. The nearest port of entry into Honduras is Guanaja, one of the Bay Islands, where formalities are completed at Bonacca, a small cay south of Guanaja itself. Those who prefer to sail directly to the larger island of Roatan should set a course for Roatan NE, and then follow the south coast of the island to Roatan Town. This is the main settlement and administrative centre, where formalities are completed in the commercial port. The alternative is to go directly to one of the marinas in the western part of the island and visit the authorities from there.

Guatemala’s best-known cruising area is Rio Dulce and those who wish to proceed nonstop should stay north of both Guanaja and Roatan and make landfall at Cabo Tres Puntas at the entrance into Amatique Bay. From there a new course should be set to the landfall buoy marking the entrance into Rio Dulce. The river has a sandbar at the entrance with a maximum depth of 2.20 m (7.5 ft) at high tide. The entrance should not be negotiated at night as the navigation lights are reported to be unreliable. Advice on the state of the tide and entry procedures may be obtained on channel 68. The port of entry is Livingston, on the north shore of the river, where it may be possible to come alongside the municipal dock. Officials will visit the boat to complete formalities before allowing the boat to proceed upstream.

Boats bound for Southern Belize, and not stopping in any of the Honduran islands, should set a course for the SW extremity of Belize’s Barrier Reef and take the channel leading to Punta Gorda. This is the southernmost port of entry into Belize and a convenient place to complete formalities. Those who prefer to continue north inside the Barrier Reef should turn north for the Inner Channel, a buoyed shipping fairway which leads to Belize City. The small town of Placencia, which is also an official port of entry, will be passed on the way.

It must be stressed that this entire area from Northern Belize to the Honduran mainland is encumbered with reefs and shoals, few of which are marked by buoys, which calls for constant attention and accurate navigation.

• AN149 North America to the Southern Caribbean

BEST TIME: | December, May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4013, US 13 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | The ABC Islands, Cruising Guide to Venezuela and Bonaire. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
|  |  |  |  | Pto Cruz/K’dijk/C’gena
St John’s X | Spear | Terra |  |  | 2485/2308/2610
47°34.0’N, 52°40.0’W | 47°31.5’N, 52°34.2’W | 46°37.0’N, 52°23.0’W |  |  |
Halifax X | Sambro | Nova |  |  | 2135/1984/2261
44°38.0’N, 63°34.0’W | 44°27.0’N, 63°26.5’W | 44°06.0’N, 63°5.0’W |  |  |
New York X | New York SE |  |  |  | 1915/1763/2040
40°42.0’N, 74°0.0’W | 40°07.5’N, 73°21.0’W |  |  |  |
Newport X | Newport S | Rhode SE |  |  | 1930/1777/2055
41°29.0’N, 71°20.0’W | 41°06.5’N, 71°22.0’W | 40°21.0’N, 70°16.5’W |  |  |
Norfolk X | Bay | Chesapeake |  |  | 1767/1615/1892
36°58.0’N, 76°22.0’W | 37°02.5’N, 76°04.0’W | 36°42.0’N, 74°48.0’W |  |  |
|  | Hatteras SE |  |  |
|  | 35°09.0’N, 74°45.0’W |  |  |
Morehead City | Lookout | Engano |  |  | 1616/1464/1741
34°40.7’N, 76°40.8’W | 34°33.7’N, 76°42.0’W | 18°40.0’N, 68°10.0’W |  |  |
|  | Mona SW |  |  |
|  | 18°00.0’N, 68°08.0’W |  |  |
|  | Orchilla E |  |  |
|  | 11°52.0’N, 65°56.0’W |  |  |
|  | Tortuga W |  |  |
|  | 10°54.0.0’N, 65°32.2’W |  |  |
Puerto Cruz N | Puerto Cruz NW | Puerto Cruz
10°20.0’N, 64°42.0’W | 10°20.0’N, 64°42.0’W | 10°13.0’N, 64°38.8’W
Mona SW |  |
Bonaire N |  |
12°23.0’N, 68°23.5’W |  |
Bonaire NW | Kralendijk W | Kralendijk
12°14.0’N, 68°27.0’W | 12°08.0’N, 68°20.0’W | 12°09.0’N, 68°16.9’W
Bonaire N |  |
Augusta |  |
11°25.0’N, 75°0.0’W |  |
Zamba | Boca | Cartagena
10°50.0’N, 75°28.0’W | 10°23.5’N, 75°35.0’W | 10°23.5’N, 75°34.0’W

The Southern Caribbean has one great advantage over the far more popular Lesser Antilles and Virgin Islands: Venezuela, the ABC Islands and Colombia all lie outside the hurricane belt. Although the effects of tropical storms may be felt, they can be considered as relatively safe destinations during the hurricane season. The routes described here are therefore meant for those who may wish to sail the most direct route to the Southern Caribbean via the Mona Passage, either to visit the countries just mentioned, or to sail a more direct route to places like Grenada or Trinidad. The best time to sail any of the routes outlined here is from late November to January, when consistent NE winds will ensure a fast passage. Earlier passages should be avoided because of the risk of a late hurricane, while passages towards the end of the winter season may encounter less favourable winds. The direct route via the Mona Passage may also appeal to anyone planning to transit the Panama Canal but precede it with a cruise through the ABC Islands, Colombia and San Blas.

AN150 • Northern routes from Great Britain and Ireland

• | AN151 | English Channel to the Baltic | 189
• | AN152 | England to Scandinavia | 190
• | AN153 | Scotland to Norway | 192
• | AN154 | Scotland to Spitsbergen | 193
• | AN155 | Scotland to Iceland | 196
• | AN156 | Ireland to Iceland | 197
• | AN157 | Ireland and Scotland to Greenland | 198

Cold, ice and a short season no longer deter cruising boats from sailing to the furthest reaches of the North Atlantic. Better boats, better aids to navigation and also better clothing have resulted in ever larger numbers of cruising boats visiting Iceland, Greenland and Spitsbergen, all of which now receive a steady stream of boats during the short summer months, from June to August. These are the old sailing grounds of the Vikings, who were crossing the North Atlantic long before Columbus had even been born, and some incredible voyages were achieved in those open boats while in other parts of Europe ships rarely ventured out of sight of land. When considering a voyage to this area one should bear in mind that it is now 1000 years since the legendary Eric the Red sailed from Norway first to Iceland and then to Greenland, a remarkable achievement even by today’s standards.

As in the old days, when planning a longer offshore passage one should try to sail from east to west during a spell of easterly winds and generally watch the weather to find favourable conditions for a westbound passage. Further south, the prevailing winds are westerlies for most of the time, and eastbound passages are therefore much easier to plan. A convenient short cut between the Irish Sea and the North Sea is the Caledonian Canal. The 60-mile-long canal has 29 locks and 10 swing bridges, and can be easily negotiated by a sailing boat with its mast up.

A major hazard in the higher latitudes affecting some of the routes described in this section is ice, which, even at the height of summer, can be encountered south of Greenland. On the eastern side of the Northern Atlantic, ice recedes much further north in summer and only poses a hazard in the area around Spitsbergen. Up-to-date information on ice can be obtained from the various meteorological offices in the area. The larger icebergs show up well on radar, and can easily be avoided, but the smaller growlers, which break off all the time, may not show up on radar, and can be a real danger in poor visibility or on dark nights.

AN150 Northern Routes from Great Britain and Ireland

The weather, for a well-prepared boat, should present no problems while sailing in higher latitudes in summer, when often it is warm and, occasionally, windless. While the usual temperatures are in single figures Celsius, it can get as high as 20ºC on a nice summer day. However, this can change instantly, with temperatures dropping to freezing, snow and the wind-chill factor making conditions even more uncomfortable than the actual air temperature. So good protective clothing is essential, and also some way of heating the boat.

Conditions are not nearly as severe for those sailing only as far as the Baltic or South Norway, which are reached by routes also included in this section. Because most sailing is coastal and offshore passages are quite short, the Baltic Sea falls outside the scope of this book. However, as an increasing number of cruising boats migrate to the Baltic from all over the world every year, the following notes have been added to assist when planning a voyage to that area. In the Baltic Sea, the sailing season is relatively short and lasts only from June to September. The best months are July and August, when the days are long and the sea has had time to get warm. The winds in summer tend to be from south to west and are of light to moderate strength. As weather conditions are quite stable, steady winds from one direction may last for a few days before changing.

Most boats arriving from outside the Baltic reach it by way of the Kiel Canal and only a minority do so by sailing around the top of Denmark and through the Kattegat. Some of the best cruising grounds are concentrated in that very SW corner of the Baltic Sea, where an entire summer can easily be spent without ever going offshore. For those who wish to experience more of the variety that the nine countries that border the Baltic have to offer, a circumnavigation of the entire sea is a temptation difficult to resist. This can be done either clockwise or anticlockwise, and most visitors seem to prefer the latter. This means that Poland and the Baltic republics are visited first, and also some of the longer passages are done at the beginning of the voyage as the distances between suitable ports can be as much as 100 miles. Wind conditions should also be more favourable, with the added advantage that, if one starts running out of time towards the end of summer, there will be better facilities at one’s disposal, should a place be needed to leave the boat between seasons. Finally, such a circumnavigation can end on a high note by reaching the North Sea via the Gotha Canal, a system of locks, rivers and canals that cuts right across Southern Sweden, and is regarded as one of the highlights of a Baltic cruise.

• AN151 English Channel to the Baltic

BEST TIME: | May to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4140, US 126 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Almanac, Baltic Sea. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Dover | Dover NE | Strait N |  |  |
51°06.6’N, 1°20.0’E | 51°07.8’N, 1°28.0’E | 51°15.0’N, 1°50.0’E |  |  |
|  | [Den Helder W] |  | Den Helder | 171
|  | 52°00.52’N, 4°18.0’E |  | 52 °58.5’N, 4 °44.4’E |
|  | Welland E |  |  |
|  | 53°00.0’N, 3°30.0’E |  |  |
|  | Terschelling W |  | Terschelling | 204
|  | 53°26.0’N, 4°54.0’E |  | 53°20.0’N, 5°06.8’E |
|  | Ems |  |  |
|  | 53°43.0’N, 6°23.6’E |  |  |
|  | Weser | Elbe | Brunsbüttel | 355
|  | 53°54.4’N, 7°46.0’E | 54°00.0’N, 8°10.0’E | 53°53’N, 9°08.0’E |

Most boats making for the Kiel Canal and the Baltic will probably attempt to pass through the Dover Strait without stopping. Indeed, this is a good tactic and, regardless of where one comes from, whether nonstop or from an English or French port, the passage through the busy strait should be timed for daylight and, ideally, with a fair tide and wind. Dover itself makes a good port of departure, although the inner harbour being tidal makes the time of departure more difficult to control. Having left Dover, or arriving from the SW, waypoint Strait N makes a good point of entry into the North Sea. It is now for the captain to decide whether to continue in the main northbound shipping lane or sail closer to the Belgian coast to avoid some of the heavy traffic. As one enters Dutch waters, and having crossed the busy lanes going in and out of Rotterdam’s Europort, the situation is exacerbated by the large number of oil rigs and platforms. An intermediate waypoint has been suggested off Den Helder, which is probably one of the best places to stop for those not attracted by the idea of sailing in one go all the way to the Kiel Canal. Den Helder is also a good place to shelter in bad weather, or to wait for a change. The harbour entrance should be approached with caution as landmarks are difficult to identify along this low, dune-fringed coast. Harbour Control should be contacted on channel 14 if in any doubt about entry procedure. Further along, Terschelling is another convenient place to interrupt the voyage.

If a stop in Den Helder is not envisaged, the direct route continues to Welland, from where it turns NE to avoid the Prod Placid oilfield and its cluster of rigs and platforms off the Dutch coast. The route continues inshore of the northbound shipping lane to make landfall at Elbe, north of the Alte Weser landfall buoy, where a decision needs to be made whether to proceed directly to Brunsbüttel, at the entrance of the Kiel Canal, or stop at Cuxhaven. The latter has excellent yachting facilities and is a convenient stop, not just for those intending to transit the Kiel Canal, but also for those who wish to visit this part of Germany. For those short of time, it is probably advisable to make directly for Brunsbüttel, where there is a small yacht harbour to spend the night if one arrives too late to commence the transit. The Elbe is a busy river, with strong currents, which should be borne in mind if crossing from Cuxhaven to Brunsbüttel, or attempting to reach Hamburg, a rewarding experience for those who have the time to do so.

The Kiel Canal was built in 1895 and its correct name, in German, is Nord-Ostsee Kanal (North Sea-Baltic Canal), as the Baltic is known in German as the East Sea. Small craft are only allowed to use the canal in daylight, and in good visibility, so ideally one should attempt to leave at first light so as to negotiate the 54 miles in one go. However, there are places where a sailing boat may spend the night, such as at Rendsburg, in the Gieselau Canal, or behind the dolphins at the various passing places.

Canal Pilot should be contacted on channel 12 for traffic information. Traffic in the Kiel Canal is controlled by lights: three red vertical lights forbid all movements; a single white light permits a yacht to enter a lock; a yellow flashing light means that the authorities have a message for the yacht being signalled. The transit fees are payable at Holtenau, at the Baltic Sea end.

Those who prefer to sail the offshore route from the English Channel to the Kiel Canal should refer to AN152.

• AN152 England to Scandinavia

BEST TIME: | May to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4140, US 126 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Norwegian Cruising Guide, Cruising Almanac, Baltic Sea, North Sea Passage Pilot. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN152A |  |  |  |  |
Dover | Dover NE | Strait N |  |  |
51°06.6’N, 1°20.0’E | 51°07.8’N, 1°28.0’E | 51°15.0’N, 1°50.0’E |  |  |
Harwich | Harwich E | Welland W | Esbjerg SW | Esbjerg | 365/320
51°55.8’N, 1°18.7’E | 51°56.0’N, 1°42.0’E | 53°04.6’N, 2°42.8’E | 55°24.0’N, 8°10.2’E | 55°28.8’N, 8°21.5’E |
|  | Denmark W | Thyborön W | Thyborön | 430/385
|  | 56°15.0’N, 07°00.0’E | 56°43.0’N, 8°1.6’E | 56°42.8’N, 8°13.2’E |
Route AN152B |  |  |  |  |
Dover | Dover NE | Strait N |  |  |
Harwich | Harwich E | Welland W |  |  |
|  | Denmark W | Thyborön W | Thyborön |
|  | Denmark N |  |  |
|  | 57°30.0’N, 08°54.0’E |  |  |
|  | Skagerak SE | Vinga | Gothenburg | 564/524
|  | 57°52.0’N, 10°37.0’E | 57°38.5’N, 11°35.0’E | 57°40.0’N, 11°41.5’E |
Route AN152C |  |  |  |  |
Dover | Dover NE | Strait N |  |  |
Harwich | Harwich E | Welland W |  |  |
|  | Denmark W | Kristiansand SW | Kristiansand | 483/443
|  |  | 58°00.0’N, 7°56.0’E | 58°04.8’N, 8°04.2’E |
|  | Denmark N | Oslo S | Oslo X | 611/571
|  |  | 59°00.0’N, 10°32.0’E | 59°23.0’N, 10°35.0’E |
Route AN152D |  |  |  |  |
Dover | Dover NE | Strait N |  |  |
Harwich | Harwich E | Welland W |  |  |
|  | Norway SW | Egersund W | Egersund | 477/437
|  | 58°16.5’N, 5°34.3’E | 58°26.5’N, 5°50.0’E | 58°27.3’N, 5°53.0’E |
|  |  | Tananger W | Tananger | 450/410
|  |  | 58°55.0’N, 5°26.6’E | 58°55.8’N, 5°34.4’E |

The Baltic shores of Scandinavia are probably best reached via the Kiel Canal, as described in AN151. For a direct route to Scandinavia, the options increase as one moves north and Norway offers almost unlimited destinations, whether sailing from a port in England or Scotland. The closest port to make for in Scandinavia proper is Esbjerg, on the west coast of Denmark. It has the advantage of being linked by car ferry to Harwich, making crew changes easy, and has good rail links with the rest of Denmark. A most attractive landfall is the Danish port of Thyborön, situated at the western end of Limfjorden, a beautiful cruising ground of lakes and channels that cuts across the Jutland Peninsula and thus provides a scenic route to the Baltic.

The west coast of Sweden can also be reached directly by this route, but as either Denmark or Southern Norway will most probably be visited on the way, Esbjerg and Kristiansand are the suggested ports of arrival in those countries.

The choice of Norwegian destinations is abundant and will depend primarily on one’s subsequent cruising plans. For those arriving through the Strait of Dover, a direct passage to Southern Norway is an attractive option, although it may also be done from one of the ports on England’s east coast, such as Harwich. Setting off from Scotland does reduce the length of the offshore passage, which may be an important factor for those who are not too keen on long passages, especially through such a busy shipping area as the North Sea. The decision for those leaving from the west coasts of England or Scotland, or those coming from Ireland, is much easier as the logical way to reach the North Sea is via the Caledonian Canal (see AN153).

Sailing conditions in summer are generally good and, provided one has access to weather information, it should not be too difficult to find a good weather window for an offshore passage. The worst one can expect is a NW gale, so this should be borne in mind when choosing a route, and should be a factor if an intermediate stop in Holland is considered. However, long-term weather forecasts are quite reliable so one should be able to obtain a fairly accurate prediction for at least the next 72 hours before setting off on such a passage. Three hazards on any of these routes are the high density of shipping, the large number of offshore oil or gas drilling platforms and the extensive wind farms. The situation is often exacerbated by poor visibility, so radar is highly recommended. Shipping separation zones operate in some areas and these should be strictly observed.

The route from the Dover Strait to Esbjerg follows the same directions as AN151 as far as Welland, from where the course is altered for the NE. Esbjerg should be approached in good visibility as the low land and sandbanks demand careful navigation. Landfall should be made at the Gradyb Bar buoy. The Gradyb Channel has a bar, which is dredged. However, the seas break in strong W or SW winds, so the area should be avoided in this kind of weather.

A number of Norwegian landfall options are listed as the choice will depend on one’s cruising plans. For those planning to cruise the south coast, Kristiansand is the most convenient landfall.

Landfall is made to the south of Kristiansand harbour entrance. The main harbour is divided by a low bridge connecting the island of Odderoya to the city, and visiting yachts are advised to make for the eastern harbour, where there are several marinas. The deep Oslo fjord deters many visiting sailors from making the long detour to visit the Norwegian capital.

For those who plan to visit Norway’s west coast, Egersund is a convenient first stop. Othwerwise, not far to the north is Tananger, which has a well-protected harbour and is close to Stavanger Airport, making it an ideal place for crew changes. Sailing north from Tananger, one has the choice of taking the sheltered inside route, which covers most of the distance with only a few places exposed to the open ocean. With a large yachting population, Norway has good facilities in all major ports.

• AN153 Scotland to Norway

BEST TIME: | June to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4010, US 126 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Norwegian Cruising Guide, Cruising Almanac, Norway. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
AN153A |  |  |  |  |
Peterhead | Peterhead NE |  |  |  |
57°29.7’N, 1°46.3’W | 57°30.0’N, 1°45.6’W |  |  |  |
Inverness | Moray W | Moray E | Korshamn SW | Korshamn | 306/377
57°38.5’N, 3°57.0’W | 57°48.0’N, 3°33.0’W | 57°50.0’N, 1°48.0’W | 58°00.0’N, 6°56.0’E | 58°01.5’N, 7°00.0’E |
|  | Skagerrak W | Kristiansand SW | Kristiansand | 320/391
|  | 57°50.0’N, 6°56.0’E | 58°00.0’N, 7°56.0’E | 58°04.8’N, 8°04.2’E |
|  |  | Oslo S | Oslo X | 443/513
|  |  | 59°00.0’N, 10°32.0’E | 59°23.0’N, 10°35.0’E |
|  | Skagerrak SE | Vinga | Gothenburg | 436/507
|  | 57°52.0’N, 10°37.0’E | 57°38.5’N, 11°35.0’E | 57°40.0’N, 11°41.5’E |
Route AN153B |  |  |  |  |
Peterhead | Peterhead NE |  |  |  |
Inverness | Moray W |  | Tananger W | Tananger | 211/262
|  |  | 58°55.0’N, 5°26.6’E | 58°55.8’N, 5°34.4’E |
|  |  | Bergen SW | Bergen X | 281/333
|  |  | 60°07.0’N, 4°55.0’E | 60°24.0’N, 5°19.0’E |
Route AN153C |  |  |  |  |
Peterhead | Peterhead NE |  |  |  |
Inverness | Moray W | Shetlands SE | Lerwick S | Lerwick | 162/177
|  | 59°48.5’N, 1°10.0’W | 60°04.5’N, 1°08.5’W | 60°08.5’N, 1°08.0’W |
|  | Lerwick N 60°11.5’N, 1°08.0’W |  |  |
|  | Shetlands E | Alesund W | Alesund | 326/340
|  | 60°26.0’N, 0°38.0’W Lofoten S 67°20.0’N, 12°00.0’E | 62°32.0’N, 5°04.0’E | 62°31.5’N, 5°50.0’E |
|  | Lofoten SE | Solvaer S | Solvaer | 795/810
|  | 67°39.0’N, 12°03.0’E | 68°13.6’N, 14°3.6’E | 68°13.2’N, 14°32.6’E |
|  |  | Tromsø W | Tromsø X | 903/916
|  |  | 69°38.5’N, 17°46.0’E | 69°38.7’N, 18°57.6’E |
Route AN153D |  |  |  |  |
Peterhead | Peterhead NE |  |  |  |
Inverness | Moray W |  |  |  |
Skerries |  | Viking | Alesund W | Alesund | 343/341/271
58°43.0’N, 2°56.0’W |  | 60°39.0’N, 2°13.2’E |  |  |
|  | Lofoten S |  |  |
|  | Lofoten SE | Solvaer S | Solvaer | 743/742/671
|  |  | Tromsø W | Tromsø X | 885/868/812

Setting off from Scotland for more northern destinations reduces the length of the offshore passage considerably, which may be an important factor for those who are not keen on long passages, especially through such a busy shipping area as the North Sea. For those setting off from the west coast of England or Scotland, or coming from Ireland, the decision is much easier as the logical way to reach the North Sea is via the Caledonian Canal. The 60-mile-long canal has 29 locks and 10 swing bridges, and can be easily negotiated by a sailing boat with its mast up. A departure point in the Moray Firth is therefore given for those who have just left the Caledonian Canal at Inverness.

Sailing from Scotland, one has a wide choice of several departure ports. Peterhead was chosen because of its convenient location for passages to Southern Norway, whereas Lerwick, the capital of the Shetlands, is the closest departure port for most of West Norway. Lerwick is also a good departure point for Lofoten, not only because it shortens considerably the length of the passage, but also because the offshore route avoids the NE winds that prevail along the west coast of Norway in early summer. Finally, Lerwick is also an ideal place to start the passage to Spitsbergen as described in AN154.

A number of landfall options are listed and the choice will depend on one’s cruising plans. For those planning to cruise the south coast of Norway, the small port of Korshamn, NW of the Naze, is a good landfall. Further along the south coast is the attractive city of Kristiansand, and further still the entrance into Oslo Fjord. A more southern route leads to Gothenberg, on Sweden’s west coast, and destinations on Denmark’s east coast.

For those who plan to stop first on the west coast of Norway, Tananger, near the city of Stavanger, makes a good place to start a cruise. Sailing north from Tananger, one has the choice of taking the sheltered inside route, which covers most of the distance with only a few places exposed to the open ocean. A good landfall in the approaches to Bergen is Fedje, a small offshore island that offers excellent protection in one of its two harbours.

Destinations in Northern Norway can be reached either directly or via Lerwick. In the former case, the intermediate Viking waypoint marks the oil and gas field of that name. Whether direct or via the Shetlands, the route continues to Lofoten, where the attractive port and main settlement of Solvaer would make an interesting stop. For those who wish to continue to the far north of Norway, an inshore route leads to Tromsø, the favourite departure point for voyages to Spitsbergen.

The predominant winds in the North Sea are SW or W, their strength increasing as one moves north. However, in higher latitudes, summer winds tend to be variable. Summer gales are mostly from NW, and usually of short duration. If the Norwegian coast is approached in strong westerly winds, this should be done with utmost caution as the coast is completely exposed, and staying well offshore until the weather has abated is advisable rather than approaching the coast to seek shelter.

• AN154 Scotland to Spitsbergen

BEST TIME: | June to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4010, US 10 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Norwegian Cruising Guide, Norway. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN154A |  |  |  |  |
Peterhead | Peterhead NE |  |  |  |
57°29.7’N, 1°46.3’W | 57°30.0’N, 1°45.6’W |  |  |  |
Inverness | Moray W | Viking | Spitsbergen S | Sørkappoeya | 1188/1187
57°38.5’N, 3°57.0’W | 57°48.0’N, 3°33.0’W | 60°39.0’N, 2°13.3’E | 76°25.2’N, 16°26.5’E | 76°33.5’N, 16°29.6’E |
|  |  | Hornsund SW | Hornsund | 1205/1204
|  |  | 76°53.0’N, 15°10.0’E | 76°58.0’N, 15°41.0’E |
|  |  | Longyearbyen W | Longyearbyen | 1306/1322
|  |  | 78°03.0’N, 12°58.0’E | 78°15.0’N, 15°10.0’E |
Route AN154B |  |  |  |  |
Peterhead | Peterhead NE |  |  |  |
Inverness | Moray W | Shetlands SE | Lerwick S | Lerwick | 162/177
|  | 59°48.5’N, 1°10.0’W | 60°04.5’N, 1°08.5’W | 60°08.5’N, 1°08.0’W |
|  | Lerwick N |  |  |
|  | 60°11.5’N, 1°08.0’W |  |  |
|  | Shetlands E | Spitsbergen S | Sørkappoeya | 1202/1201
|  | 60°26.0’N, 0°38.0’W | Hornsund SW | Hornsund | 1219/1218
|  | Spitsbergen SW | Longyearbyen W | Longyearbyen | 1320/1335
|  | 77°31.0’N, 13°18.0’E |  |  |
Route AN154C |  |  |  |  |
Peterhead | Peterhead NE |  |  |  |
Inverness | Moray W | Shetlands SE | Lerwick S | Lerwick | 162/177
|  | Lerwick N |  |  |
|  | Shetlands E | Alesund W | Alesund | 326/340
|  |  | 62°32.0’N, 5°04.0’E | 62°31.5’N, 5°50.0’E |
|  | Lofoten S |  |  |
|  | 67°20.0’N, 12°00.0’E |  |  |
|  | Lofoten SE | Solvaer S | Solvaer | 795/810
|  | 67°39.0’N, 12°03.0’E | 68°13.6’N, 14°03.6’E | 68°13.2’N, 14°32.6’E |
|  |  | Tromsø W | Tromsø X | 903/916
|  |  | 69°38.5’N, 17°46.0’E | 69°38.7’N, 18°57.6’E |
|  | Tromsø N |  |  |
|  | 70°10.0’N, 18°23.0’E |  |  |
|  | [Bear S] | Bear SE | Sørhamna | 1121/1135
|  | 74°19.0’N, 19°03.5’E | 74°21.2’N, 19°10.4’E | 74°21.8’N, 19°09.8’E |
|  |  | Spitsbergen S | Sørkappoeya | 1215/1228
|  |  | Hornsund SW | Hornsund | 1232/1245
|  | Spitsbergen SW | Longyearbyen W | Longyearbyen | 1405/1418
Route AN154D |  |  |  |  |
Oban X | Artach | Skerryvore S |  |  |
56°24.5’N, 5°29.5’W | 56°05.0’N, 6°35.0’W | 56°16.0’N, 7°11.3’W Sky W 57°26.3’N, 6°58.2’W Shiant W 57°55.3’N, 6°26.5’W North Minch 58°14.5’N, 6°01.0’W Wrath 58°42.0’N, 5°00.0’W Orkneys N 59°28.0’N, 2°56.0’W |  |  |
|  | Shetlands SE | Lerwick S | Lerwick |   391
|  | Lerwick N |  |  |
|  | Shetlands E | Spitsbergen S | Sørkappoeya | 1425
|  |  | Hornsund SW | Hornsund | 1442
|  | Spitsbergen SW | Longyearbyen W | Longyearbyen | 1511

A voyage to Spitsbergen, or, to give its correct Norwegian name, the Svalbard Archipelago, is a unique experience. Sailing conditions in summer are relatively benign and poor visibility may be more of a hazard than strong winds. At the height of summer in a normal year, ice does not pose a serious problem and the west coast of the island of Spitsbergen is usually free of pack ice from June until November. However, weather conditions deteriorate rapidly after the middle of August, so an early-summer cruise is to be preferred. The coast of Spitsbergen is indented by deep fjords offering good shelter. Large glaciers, fronted by high ice cliffs, slope off into the sea. Ice conditions on the passage from mainland Norway are usually good in early summer, when the Gulf Stream assures a mostly ice-free passage after the middle of June.

Because of the relatively short summer season, one may be tempted to sail the entire distance from Scotland to Spitsbergen offshore. This would also avoid the risk of running into NE winds, which prevail along the Norwegian coast in early summer. Those who wish to visit the mainland coast of Norway should do this on their return voyage. As in the case of passages to the Norwegian mainland, the ports of Peterhead and Inverness, in mainland Scotland, or Lerwick, in the Shetlands, make good departure ports. For boats setting off from the west coast of Scotland, a suggested route starts from Oban and turns north at the Dubh Artach lighthouse, from where it continues north of the Orkneys to join the route to the Shetlands starting from the east coast of Scotland (AN154E). The alternative is to continue nonstop from Cape Wrath all the way to Spitsbergen by staying west of the Shetlands. There are three ways to sail this northbound route: entirely offshore, with an intermediate stop in the Shetlands, or with stops on the west coast of Norway. The offshore route needs to clear an agglomeration of oil rigs NE of the Shetlands, before a direct course may be set for Spitsbergen. Three possible landfalls are suggested: the anchorage at the southern extremity of the island at Sørkapp, at Hornsund Bay, or continue nonstop to the main settlement at Longyearbyen.

On route AN154A, having cleared the Viking oil and gas field, a direct course can be set for Spitsbergen.

Route AN154B makes Lerwick its base to prepare for the offshore passage. The alternative is to cruise along the Norwegian coast, possibly as far as Tromsø, before heading offshore, as outlined in route AN154C. Tromsø is the traditional port of departure for Arctic expeditions, with excellent repair facilities, provisioning and weather information. An easy inside passage leads to Torsvag, a good harbour at the NW tip of Vannoya. This is a good jumping-off point for the offshore passage, but all provisioning, including diesel, should have been done in Tromsø as local supplies at Torsvag are limited and diesel may not be available.

Bear Island (Bjornoya) lies roughly halfway to Spitsbergen and offers the possibility of some shelter if the weather deteriorates. Although the island does not have an all-weather harbour, there are anchorages on all sides and, depending on wind direction, one should be able to find some shelter. The best anchorage is at Sørhamna just NE of the southern tip of the island. It offers good shelter from winds with a northerly component. Kvalrossbukta, NE of Sørhamna, offers better shelter from the westerly swell.

Sørkapp (South Cape), on the small island of Sørkappoeya, at the southern extremity of Spitsbergen, makes a good landfall as it is visible from far away on a clear day. North of the island is a well-sheltered anchorage. In poor visibility the area should be approached with great caution as the low land and shoals extend 10 miles south of the high ground. Ice may be present in early summer, both offshore and closer to land. Both winds and the swell are augmented in the immediate vicinity of Sørkapp. In strong easterly winds, good shelter can be found at Stormbukta, 14 miles NNW of Sørkappoeya. The nearest sheltered anchorage is at Hornsund, the site of a Polish polar station. Nearby is a well-protected lagoon, created by the Hansbreen glacier. In a bad ice year, Sørkapp may be surrounded by ice and one then has to sail well to the west, before being able to close with the west coast of Spitsbergen.

The main settlement and administrative centre is further up the west coast at Longyearbyen, located in Istfjorden. There is a pontoon for the use of visiting yachts next to the main commercial dock. Formalities are completed at the Governor’s office. Only basic repair facilities are available and provisioning is reasonable. There are regular flights to Oslo and Tromsø. The only other permanent settlement is at Ny Alesund, located in Kongsfjorden about 60 miles north of Longyearbyen. This is an Arctic science and research base. It has limited provisions for visitors and occasionally fuel at a small dock that can be used for short periods by yachts.

Visiting yachts must obtain a cruising permit from the Svalbard Governor before arrival and are required to have insurance cover for SAR operations. For details, write in advance to: Sysselmannen på Svalbard, N-9170 Longyearbyen, Norway.

Severe restrictions apply to nature reserves and, from 15 May to 15 August, it is prohibited to move within 300 metres of a bird sanctuary. Most animals are protected and, in the case of polar bears, may be killed only in self-defence. As bears pose a major risk in all areas, visitors must have a gun for self-defence as there have been several attacks by polar bears in recent years. Guns can be hired locally from Svalbard Arctic Sport, who also arrange SAR insurance, although at higher rates than obtainable elsewhere.

The direction of the winds on the offshore route is variable, but there is a higher percentage of N and NE winds as you move north. In the Svalbard area summer winds tend to blow either from NW or E. There is a low incidence of gale force winds in summer. Fog is frequent, especially near Bear Island and in the southern approaches to Spitsbergen. If this passage is made in the second half of June, the risk of ice is low. A late-June arrival will benefit from long days and the chance to see more wildlife.

Magnetic anomalies have been reported in the Spitsbergen area, although no significant problems have been encountered with magnetic compasses, as the distance to the magnetic pole (located north of Greenland) is quite considerable. A serious hazard in the Barents Sea is large floating logs, which are partly submerged and almost impossible to see.

• AN155 Scotland to Iceland

BEST TIME: | June to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4010, US 10 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Almanac, Faroe, Iceland and Greenland. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN155A |  |  |  |  |
Oban X | Artach | Skerryvore S |  |  |
56°24.5’N, 5°29.5’W | 56°05.0’N, 6°35.0’W | 56°16.0’N, 7°11.’W |  |  |
|  | Barra S |  |  |
|  | 56°44.0’N, 7°43.8’W |  |  |
|  | Kilda | Hornafjordur SE | Höfn | 596
|  | 57°51.0’N, 8°51.0’W | 64°03.5’N, 15°11.5’W | 64°14.9’N, 15°11.5’W |
|  |  | Djupivogur SE | Djupivogur | 608
|  |  | 64°35.0’N, 14°15.0’W | 64°39.8’N, 14°16.7’W |
Route AN155B |  |  |  |  |
Oban X | Artach | Skerryvore S |  |  |
|  | Barra S Kilda |  |  |
|  | Iceland SW | Reykjavik W | Reykjavik | 745
|  | 63°46.5’N, 22°45.0’W | 64°06.0’N, 22°05.0’W | 64°07.2’N, 21°56.0’W |

A direct passage to Iceland from almost any port in England or Scotland is almost impossible to achieve without first doing some coastal navigation to reach the open sea. Boats from the east coast may have to sail first to Scotland and either go over the top or use the Caledonian Canal. Another possibility is to sail through the Irish Sea and start the offshore passage from the west coast of Scotland. Oban has been chosen as a hypothetical start point with the offshore route starting from the Dubh Artach light. The route passes south of Skerryvore and Barra Head lights to reach the open sea south of Kilda.

Depending on weather conditions in the North Atlantic, summer depressions may pass either to the north or south of Iceland. Generally, winds around Iceland follow a certain pattern, with those blowing north of Iceland having an easterly component and those south of Iceland having a westerly component. This means that for boats approaching Iceland from the E or SE, it makes more sense to make a tour of the island in an anticlockwise direction. In this case, landfall should be made on the SE coast. If the forecast is for the north coast to be encumbered by ice, the only alternative is to make for the west coast, which offers the best cruising opportunities. According to the locals, good sailing conditions prevail from early May to September, and in some years the first half of October is also pleasant. Bearing in mind the above points, boats coming from the SE can make landfall on either the SE coast of Iceland, such as at Hornafjordur or Djupivogur, or at the SW point of the island, off Reykjanes. Hornafjordur is a busy, well-sheltered fishing harbour, with a rather difficult entrance. Its main attraction is the proximity to the Vatnajokull glaciers. Djupivogur is the most southerly fjord on the east coast. It is a well-sheltered natural harbour with a good range of facilities and the best starting point for a cruise around Iceland.

Those who prefer to sail directly to the capital Reykjavik should make their landfall off the south coast, close to Surtsey, a newly formed volcanic island. Nearby Vestmannaeyjar is a spectacular volcanic archipelago, where recent eruptions have created new islands and mountains. A stop here should not be missed. The offshore route continues towards Reykjanes Peninsula, at the SW extremity of Iceland, then runs north, parallel to the coast, before turning east towards Reykjavik.

The port captain of Reykjavík should be contacted on channel 12 on arrival. A convenient place to dock and complete formalities is the Brokey Yacht Club, where visitors are welcome.

• AN156 Ireland to Iceland

BEST TIME: | June to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4011, US 11 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Almanac, Faroe, Iceland and Greenland. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN156A |  |  |  |  |
Crosshaven | Roche | Cork SW |  |  |
51°48.6’N, 8°16.2’W | 51°47.25’N, 8°15.6’W | 51°43.0’N, 8°16.0’W |  |  |
|  | Kinsale 51°35.0’N, 8°31.5’W Fastnet 51°22.0’N, 9°36.0’W Mizen 51°24.0’N, 10°02.0’W |  |  |
|  | Valentia SW |  | Valentia | 126
|  | 51°51.5’N, 10°31.5’W |  | 51°56.0’N, 10°18.7’W |
|  | Ireland SW 52°05.0’N, 10°50.0’W |  |  |
|  | Rockall E | Hornafjordur SE | Höfn | 879
|  | 57°35.5’N, 13°28.8’W | 64°3.5’N, 15°11.5’W | 64°14.9’N, 15°11.5’W |
|  |  | Djupivogur SE | Djupivogur | 898
|  |  | 64°35.0’N, 14°15.0’W | 64°39.8’N, 14°16.7’W |
Route AN156B |  |  |  |  |
Crosshaven | Roche | Cork SW Kinsale Fastnet Mizen |  |  |
|  | Valentia SW |  | Valentia | 126
|  | Ireland SW Rockall E Rockall N 57°44.0’N, 13°39.0’W |  |  |
|  | Iceland SW | Reykjavik W | Reykjavik | 977
|  | 63°46.5’N, 22°45.0’W | 64°06.0’N, 22°05.0’W | 64°07.2’N, 21°56.0’W |

Ireland is a perfect jumping off point for boats that have come from Western Europe and are bound for Iceland. Before being able to set a course for Iceland, boats leaving from Crosshaven have the choice of stopping at several interesting ports along the picturesque south and south-west coasts of Ireland. A similar choice awaits once the equally picturesque west coast is reached. The ports of Cahersiveen, Dingle, Tralee (Fenit) and Kilrush provide good shelter and facilities among attractive surroundings.

Cahersiveen, located on the Valentia River (Caher), is located in a convenient position to prepare for the passage to Iceland. The offshore route is rejoined at waypoint Ireland SW from where a direct course can be sailed to SE Iceland. The route passes east of Rockall and makes landfall at Hornafjordur, a fjord with a rather difficult entrance. Nearby Höfn is a busy, well-sheltered fishing harbour, its main attraction being the proximity to the Vatnajökull Glacier, the largest in Europe. Further north along the coast is Djupivogur located in a well-sheltered natural harbour. The port has a good range of facilities and is the best starting point for a cruise around Iceland.

Those who prefer to sail directly to Reykjavik should set course for Reykjanes Point at the SW extremity of Iceland. From there, the course leads north parallel to the coast before turning east towards Reykjavik. On arrival, the port captain should be contacted on channel 12. Visiting boats may obtain a place at Brokey Yacht Club to complete formalities.

• AN157 Ireland and Scotland to Greenland

BEST TIME: | June to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4011, US 11 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A15e Voyages to the Northwest Passage |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Faeroe, Iceland and Greenland, Arctic and Northern Waters. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN157A |  |  |  |  |
Crosshaven 51°48.6’N, 8°16.2’W | Roche 51°47.25’N, 8°15.6’W | Cork SW 51°43.0’N, 8°16.0’W Kinsale 51°35.0’N, 8°31.5’W Fastnet 51°17.0’N, 9°36.0’W |  |  |
|  | Mizen | Ammassalik SE | Ammassalik | 1299
|  | 51°24.0’N, 10°02.0’W | 65°24.0’N, 37°10.0’W | 65°35.0’N, 37°35.0’W |
|  |  | Christian E 60°03.5’N, 42°55.0’W | Christian 60°03.5’N, 43°08.2’W | 1355
|  | Farewell SE | Nanortalik S | Nanortalik | 1427
|  | 59°39.0’N, 43°37.5’W | 60°00.0’N, 45°28.0’W | 60°05.0’N, 45°17.5’W |
|  |  | Paamiut S 61°53.0’N, 49°55.0’W | Paamiut 61°58.0’N, 49°46.0’W | 1608
|  |  | Nuuk SW 64°00.0’N, 52°20.0’W | Nuuk 64°04.5’N, 52°7.5’W | 1764
Route AN157B |  |  |  |  |
Oban X | Artach | Skerryvore S |  |  |
56°24.5’N, 5°29.5’W | 56°05.0’N, 6°35.0’W | 56°16.0’N, 7°11.’W Rockall E 57°35.5’N, 13°28.8’W |  |  |
|  | Rockall N | Ammassalik SE | Ammassalik | 1121
|  | 57°44.0’N, 13°39.0’W |  |  |
Route AN157C |  |  |  |  |
Oban X | Artach | Skerryvore S |  |  |
|  | Rockall S | Christian E | Christian | 1218
|  | 56°53.0’N, 14°11.0’W |  |  |
|  | Farewell SE | Nanortalik S | Nanortalik | 1303
|  |  | Paamiut S | Paamiut | 1448
|  |  | Nuuk SW | Nuuk | 1627

These northern routes were sailed by the Vikings over 1000 years ago, and while the vessels have changed almost beyond recognition, the weather still poses the same challenges and conditions in Greenland are often far from favourable. The main difficulty is posed by ice, which only eases its grip on this enormous island during a short period at the height of summer. Along the east coast there is an ice-free strip, but offshore pack ice makes it impossible, or very dangerous, for a sailing boat to cruise through that area. The south-setting East Greenland Current, which brings down ice from the Arctic, makes the east coast inhospitable throughout the year, and although by August it may be possible to reach that coast, the danger of being trapped inshore deters most sailors from visiting it. The west coast is mountainous with deep fjords, similar to Norway. In a good year, the whole of Davis Strait and Baffin Bay can be free of pack ice, but not of icebergs, which are never absent. Summer winds tend to be variable, with a northerly component. On land, summer temperatures vary between 2ºC and 20ºC, but sea temperatures very rarely rise above 4ºC. This means that fog can be quite frequent in summer. The Nuuk area is relatively free of fog.

Cruising anywhere in Greenland needs careful planning. Because the west coast between 63ºN and 69ºN is usually clear of ice by early June. Thanks to the warm West Greenland Current, the area may be entered from the SE by giving Cape Farewell a wide berth. Long days, reasonable weather and acceptable temperatures make cruising possible until shorter days and deteriorating conditions signal the end of a rather too short sailing season.

Because of the difficulties associated with making landfall on the east coast, but mainly because the best cruising grounds are on the west side, the best landfall for boats arriving from the east is Prince Christian Sound. The narrow Ikerasassuaq (Prince Christian Sound) is a spectacular sight that provides a narrow passage north of Cape Farewell. There is always a large amount of ice in the sound, but by August most of it should have cleared. Strong winds funnel through the narrow passage and, in some years, the eastern entrance to the sound may be blocked by ice, thus making access impossible. Advice should be sought on channel 16 from Prins Christian Sund Radio or Ice Central at Narssarssuaq, either by VHF via a coastal station.

The nearest port of entry on Greenland’s west coast is Nanortalik, but in early summer the entrance may be blocked by ice, especially in southerly winds. The next port is Paamiut, which is usually accessible. This used to be a busy and prosperous settlement in the heydays of cod fishing, and facilities are still reasonably good. An inner route leads north from this well-sheltered harbour towards Nuuk. However, in some summers, the coast may be blocked by ice, so an offshore route needs to be sailed to Nuuk. The approaches to Nuuk are well marked, and you will find there the best facilities in Greenland, with good provisioning.

The more northerly landfall on the east coast at Ammassalik is only free of ice in late summer. The small town is the main settlement on Greenland’s east coast. Facilities are adequate and there are regular flights to the capital Nuuk and also Reykjavik. There is an even more northerly settlement in Scoresby Sound. For more details see route AN165.

Those planning to sail on to the Northwest Passage should consult AN171 for a detailed description of the route onwards from Nuuk.

AN160 • Routes from Scandinavia

• | AN161 | Scandinavia to England | 201
• | AN162 | Scandinavia to Scotland | 202
• | AN163 | Norway to Spitsbergen | 203
• | AN164 | Norway to Faroes and Iceland | 204
• | AN165 | Norway to Greenland | 206

There is a profound historical dimension to the routes described in this section, which covers the waters of the Norwegian Sea, North Sea and Atlantic – once the undisputed fiefdom of Viking sailors. Those outstanding navigators were the first in Northern Europe to understand, and put to good use, the prevailing ocean winds and currents. In so doing they discovered new lands and pioneered ocean routes in daring voyages through waters that are held in awe even by today’s sailors. It is indeed a great satisfaction for any sailor to sail in the wake of those outstanding men, and to feel the same excitement as they did as one makes landfall in Iceland, the Faroes and Greenland.

Weather conditions may have changed in the thousand years since Erik Thorvaldsson, known as Erik the Red, sailed across to Iceland and Greenland, but the tactics used for such long passages have largely remained the same. With the prevailing westerlies making west to east passages relatively easy, it is the westbound passages that need careful planning and it is here that we have a clear advantage over our forebears as we are able to observe the developing weather systems and choose the right weather window in order to benefit from favourable conditions.

Even in high latitudes, the weather in summer is rarely bad enough to cause any serious difficulties to a well-prepared boat, and gale force winds are at a low percentage during the recommended period from mid-June to mid-August. Ice poses a problem at all times in the vicinity of Greenland, and should be treated with great caution, whereas in the east, it is only in the proximity of Spitsbergen that one is likely to encounter pack ice in summer. However, the occasional iceberg may drift into lower latitudes whatever the season, a hazard that small boats must heed to avoid sharing the fate of the Titanic. One other hazard that needs to be taken into account is the strong tidal races among the smaller island groups, such as the Shetlands or Faroes, which are compounded by the presence of submerged rocks – a good reason to plot courses that avoid those areas when planning a longer offshore passage.

AN160 Routes from Scandinavia

• AN161 Scandinavia to England

BEST TIME: | June to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4140, US 126 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | North Sea Passage Pilot, Cruising Almanac, Shell Channel Pilot. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Gothenburg 57°40.0’N, 11°41.5’E | Vinga 57°38.5’N, 11°35.0’E | Skagerrak SE 57°52.0’N, 10°37.0’E |  |  |
Kristiansand | Kristiansand SW | Denmark N |  |  |
58°04.8’N, 8°04.2’E | 58°00.0’N, 7°56.0’E | 57°30.0’N, 8°54.0’E Denmark W 56°15.0’N, 7°00.0’E |  |  |
Esbjerg | Esbjerg SW | Welland W | Harwich E | Harwich | 524/443/320
55°28.8’N, 8°21.5’E | 55°24.0’N, 8°10.2’E | 53°04.6’N, 2°42.8’E | 51°56.0’N, 1°33.0’E | 51°55.8’N, 1°18.7’E |
|  | Thames NE | Southend | London X | 600/519/395
|  | 51°43.0’N, 1°20.0’E | 51°29.5’N, 0°48.4’E | 51°29.8’N, 0°02.0’E |
|  | Strait N | Dover NE | Dover | 569/486/371
|  | 51°15.0’N, 1°50.0’E | 51°07.8’N, 1°28.0’E | 51°06.6’N, 1°20.0’E |
|  | Strait S |  |  |
|  | 50°41.0’N, 1°05.0’E |  |  |
|  | Wight S |  |  |
|  | 50°23.5’N, 1°18.0’W |  |  |
|  | Start S | Falmouth SE | Falmouth | 887/811/689
|  | 50°09.0’N, 3°38.7’W | 50°07.0’N, 5°00.5’W | 50°08.0’N, 5°02.0’W |

Boats sailing from Southern Sweden and Denmark will probably use the Kiel Canal to reach the North Sea, but for anyone leaving from a more northern port in either of those two countries, the open sea will be reached through the Skagerrak. One alternative is the Limfjord Channel, which cuts across the top of Denmark and reaches the North Sea at Thyborön. From a multitude of departure points, the three most obvious ones have been chosen: Kristiansand, in Southern Norway, Gothenburg, in Western Sweden, and Esbjerg, on the west coast of Denmark’s Jutland. Those who arrive in the North Sea by way of the Kiel Canal should refer to AN13.

The choice of destinations in England is not easy as there are so many possibilities, so Harwich is used as a suggested port of arrival. Also visiting sailors may wish to stop in London. London is indeed an interesting destination, and sailing up the Thames, with the right tide, can be an exhilarating experience. Visiting boats will find good berthing at St Katharine’s Yacht Haven, right by Tower Bridge, or at Limehouse Basin, where the Cruising Association is based. The former is close to the City, whereas the latter is a more economic option. Having made landfall in the Thames Estuary, an attempt should be made to arrive off Southend at low tide so as to catch a favourable current as the tide turns. The river is very well marked and easy to negotiate and, by maintaining a speed of 6 knots, plus the favourable tide, London should be reached on one tide.

Boats bound for one of the ports on the south coast should set a course for the Dover Strait. Dover Marina is a convenient place to stop, otherwise a number of waypoints are listed for those who prefer to continue to Falmouth and prepare there for the crossing of the Bay of Biscay. Those planning to cross the Bay of Biscay should refer to AN13 and AN14.

• AN162 Scandinavia to Scotland

BEST TIME: | June to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4140, US 126 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Almanac, North and East Scotland. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN162A |  |  |  |  |
Oslo X | Oslo S |  |  |  |
59°23.0’N, 10°35.0’E | 59°00.0’N, 10°32.0’E |  |  |  |
Kristiansand | Kristiansand SW | Skagerrak W |  |  |
58°04.8’N, 8°04.2’E | 58°00.0’N, 7°56.0’E | 57°50.0’N, 6°56.0’E |  |  |
Gothenburg | Vinga | Skagerrak SE | Peterhead NE | Peterhead | 443/321/437
57°40.0’N, 11°41.5’E | 57°38.5’N, 11°35.0’E | 57°52.0’N, 10°37.0’E | 57°30.0’N, 1°45.6’W | 57°29.7’N, 1°46.3’W |
Route AN162B |  |  |  |  |
Oslo X | Oslo S |  |  |  | 513
Kristiansand | Kristiansand SW | Skagerrak W |  |  | 391
Gothenburg | Vinga | Skagerrak SE |  |  | 507
Thyborön | Thyborön W |  |  |  | 409
56°42.8’N, 8°13.2’E | 56°43.0’N, 8°1.6’E |  |  |  |
Esbjerg | Esbjerg SW | Moray E | Moray W | Inverness | 438
55°28.8’N, 8°21.5’E | 55°24.0’N, 8°10.2’E | 57°50.0’N, 1°48.0’W | 57°48.0’N, 3°33.0’W | 57°38.5’N, 3°57.0’W |
Route AN162C |  |  |  |  |
Bergen X | Bergen SW |  | Lerwick S | Lerwick | 125
60°24.0’N, 5°19.0’E | 60°07.0’N, 4°55.0’E |  | 60°04.5’N, 1°08.5’W | 60°08.5’N, 1°08.0’W |
Route AN162D |  |  |  |  |
Solvaer | Solvaer S | Lofoten SE |  |  |
68°13.2’N, 14°32.6’E | 68°13.6’N, 14°03.6’E | 67°39.0’N, 12°03.0’E |  |  |
Alesund | Alesund W | Shetlands E | Lerwick N | Lerwick | 596/326
62°31.5’N, 5°50.0’E | 62°32.0’N, 5°04.0’E | 60°26.0’N, 0°38.0’W | 60°11.5’N, 1°08.0’W |  |

For Scandinavian sailors Scotland is much more easily reached than any other place in the British Isles, and this is demonstrated by the large number of Scandinavian yachts that cross the North Sea to Scotland every year. From Northern Denmark the most convenient port of departure is Thyborön, at the western end of Limfjorden. Boats leaving from a port in Southern Sweden, such as Gothenburg, may wish to stop first in Peterhead, even if their intended Scottish destination is further away. Those who wish to reach the west coast may do so either by sailing to Inverness and the Caledonian Canal, or sailing around the top of Scotland. However, because of the hazards associated with passing through the Pentland Firth, it may be advisable, if the Orkneys route is used, to sail through Scapa Flow. Scapa Flow is then entered by passing south of South Ronaldsay. Tides and currents in Scapa Flow are nowhere as fierce as in the Pentland Firth and the west coast of Scotland and offlying islands can be reached by this easier route.

Boats leaving from ports north of Bergen as far as Lofoten may prefer to call first at Lerwick, in the Shetlands, before continuing to destinations in mainland Scotland.

• AN163 Norway to Spitsbergen

BEST TIME: | June to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4010, US 10 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Norwegian Cruising Guide, Norway. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN163A |  |  |  |  |
Bergen X | Bergen SW | Norway W | Spitsbergen S | Sørkappoeya | 996
60°24.0’N, 5°19.0’E | 60°07.0’N, 4°55.0’E | 61°02.0’N, 4°24.0’E | 76°25.2’N, 16°26.5’E | 76°33.5’N, 16°29.6’E |
|  |  | Hornsund SW | Hornsund | 1016
|  |  | 76°53.0’N, 15°10.0’E | 76°58.0’N, 15°41.0’E |
|  | Spitsbergen SW | Longyearbyen W | Longyearbyen | 1142
|  | 77°31.0’N, 13°18.0’E | 78°03.0’N, 12°58.0’E | 78°15.0’N, 15°10.0’E |
Route AN163B |  |  |  |  |
Bergen X | Bergen SW | Norway W |  |  |
Alesund | Alesund W |  |  |  |
62°31.5’N, 5°50.0’E | 62°32.0’N, 5°04.0’E | Lofoten S |  |  |
|  | 67°20.0’N, 12°00.0’E |  |  |
|  | Lofoten SE | Solvaer S | Solvaer | 586/407
|  | 67°39.0’N, 12°03.0’E | 68°13.6’N, 14°3.6’E | 68°13.2’N, 14°32.6’E |
|  |  | Tromsø W | Tromsø X | 657/534
|  |  | 69°38.5’N, 17°46.0’E | 69°38.7’N, 18°57.6’E |
|  | Tromsø N |  |  |
|  | 70°10.0’N, 18°23.0’E |  |  |
|  | [Bear S] | Bear SE | Sørhamna | 928/805
|  | 74°19.0’N, 19°03.5’E | 74°21.2’N, 19°10.4’E | 74°21.8’N, 19°09.8’E |
|  |  | Spitsbergen S | Sørkappoeya | 1060/933
|  |  | Hornsund SW | Hornsund | 1087/958
|  | Spitsbergen SW | Longyearbyen W | Longyearbyen | 1164/1035

A voyage to Spitsbergen, or, to give its correct Norwegian name, the Svalbard Archipelago, is a unique experience. Sailing conditions in summer are usually good and poor visibility may be more of a hazard than strong winds. At the height of summer in a normal year, ice does not pose a serious problem and the west coast of Spitsbergen is usually free of pack ice from June until November. However, weather conditions deteriorate rapidly after the middle of August, so early summer is to be preferred. The coast of Spitsbergen is indented by deep fjords offering good shelter. Large glaciers, fronted by high ice cliffs, slope off into the sea. Ice conditions on the passage from mainland Norway are usually good in early summer, when the Gulf Stream ensures a mostly ice-free passage after the middle of June.

Those heading for Norway’s far north or even Spitsbergen should consider making at least a brief stop in Lofoten, the scenic archipelago deserving such a detour. Landfall will be made at Skomvaer lighthouse, at the SW tip of the Lofoten chain. There are plenty of excellent harbours in the Inner Lofoten, which form a barrier between the Atlantic and the mainland along the spectacular Vestfjorden. The main settlement in Lofoten is the colourful town of Solvaer set in an attractive, almost landlocked bay.

Tromsø is the traditional port of departure for Arctic expeditions, with excellent repair facilities, provisioning and regular flights to Oslo. An easy inside passage leads to Torsvag, a good harbour at the NW tip of Vannoya. This is a good jumping-off point for the offshore passage, but all provisioning, including diesel, should have been done in Tromsø as local supplies are limited. Also in Tromsø one can obtain weather and ice charts from the meteorological office.

Bear Island (Bjornoya) lies roughly halfway to Spitsbergen and offers the possibility of shelter if the weather deteriorates. There are anchorages on all sides of the island and, depending on the wind direction, you should be able to find some shelter. The best anchorage is at Sørhamna, just NE of the southern tip of the island. It offers good shelter from winds with a northerly component. Kvalrossbukta, close NE of Sørhamna, offers better shelter from the westerly swell.

Sørkapp (South Cape), on the small island of Sørkappoeya, at the southern extremity of Spitsbergen, makes a good landfall as it is visible from far away on a clear day. North of the island is a well-sheltered anchorage. In poor visibility the area should be approached with great caution as the low land and shoals extend 10 miles south of the high ground. Ice may be present in early summer, both offshore and closer to land. Both wind and swell are augmented in the immediate vicinity of Sørkapp. In strong easterly winds, good shelter can be found at Stormbukta, 14 miles NNW of Sørkappoeya. The nearest sheltered anchorage is at Hornsund, the site of a Polish polar station. Nearby is a well-protected lagoon, created by the Hansbreen glacier. In a bad ice year, Sørkapp may be surrounded by ice and one then has to sail well to the west, before being able to close with the west coast of Spitsbergen.

The main settlement and administrative centre is further up the west coast at Longyearbyen, located in Istfjorden. There is a pontoon for the use of visiting yachts next to the main commercial dock. Formalities are completed at the Governor’s office. Only basic repair facilities are available and provisioning is reasonable. There are regular flights to Oslo and Tromsø. The only other permanent settlement is at Ny Ålesund, located in Kongsfjorden about 60 miles north of Longyearbyen. This is an Arctic science and research base. It has limited provisions for visitors and occasionally fuel at a small dock that can be used for short periods by yachts.

Visiting yachts must obtain a cruising permit from the Svalbard Governor before arrival and are required to have insurance cover for SAR operations. For details, write in advance to: Sysselmannen på Svalbard, N-9170 Longyearbyen, Norway.

Severe restrictions apply to nature reserves and, from 15 May to 15 August, it is prohibited to move within 300 metres of a bird sanctuary. Most animals are protected and, in the case of polar bears, may be killed only in self-defence. As bears pose a major risk in all areas, visitors must have a gun for self-defence as there have been several attacks by polar bears in recent years. Guns can be hired locally from Svalbard Arctic Sport, who also arrange SAR insurance, although at higher rates than obtainable elsewhere.

The direction of the winds on this route is variable, but there is a higher percentage of N and NE winds as you move north. In the Svalbard area summer winds tend to blow from either NW or E. There is a low incidence of gale force winds in summer. Fog is frequent, especially near Bear Island and in the southern approaches to Spitsbergen. If this passage is made in the second half of June, the risk of ice is low. A late-June arrival will benefit from long days and the chance to see more wildlife.

• AN164 Norway to Faroes and Iceland

BEST TIME: | June to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4010, US 10 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Almanac, Faeroe, | Iceland and Greenland. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN164A |  |  |  |  |
Bergen X | Bergen SW | Shetlands SE |  |  |
60°24.0’N, 5°19.0’E | 60°07.0’N, 4°55.0’E | 59°48.5’N, 1°10.0’W |  |  |
|  | Faroes S | Hornafjordur S | Höfn | 603
|  | 61°13.0’N, 6°44.0’E | 64°13.5’N, 15°11.5’W | 64°14.9’N, 15°11.5’W |
|  |  | Djupivogur SE | Djupivogur | 593
|  |  | 64°35.0’N, 14°15.0’W | 64°39.8’N, 14°16.7’W |
Route AN164B |  |  |  |  |
Bergen X | Bergen SW | Shetlands SE |  |  |
|  | Iceland SW | Reykjavik W | Reykjavik | 873
|  | 63°46.5’N, 22°45.0’W | 64°06.0’N, 22°05.0’W | 64°07.2’N, 21°56.0’W |

This is the traditional Viking route that was plied regularly in the Middle Ages following the legendary voyage of Erik the Red to Iceland and Greenland, towards the end of the 10th century. It was the knowledge gained by those sailing this route that led the first Vikings to Vinland, as they called North America, several centuries before Columbus stumbled upon a continent that, right up to his death, he was convinced was part of the continent of Asia.

In higher latitudes there is a reasonable percentage of N and NE winds to provide good sailing conditions, especially if the point of departure is far enough to the north to avoid the effect of the depressions moving east across the North Atlantic. It is therefore essential not to leave on this passage if a depression is approaching from the west close to your latitude. If such a depression passes far enough to the south, it may produce favourable easterlies.

A convenient and popular departure port is Bergen as it has good facilities to prepare for the long passage. The initial course passes through the aptly called Hole separating the Shetlands from Fair Isle. The safest course passes well to the south of Sumburgh Head, the southern extremity of mainland Shetland. Violent currents are encountered in this area, so a course should be steered that passes at least 3 miles clear of Sumburgh Head. The westbound course continues south of the Faroes. A direct course for ports in SE Iceland intersects the Faroes and if a stop in those islands is not envisaged, the course should be set for the intermediate waypoint set south of Suduroy, the southernmost of the Faroes. Boats on passage to Reykjavik may sail a direct course to SW Iceland. The route will pass close to the Foinaven oilfield, so this area should be approached with caution.

Lying almost astride the direct route to Iceland both the Shetlands and Faroes make tempting stopping points. Lerwick, the capital of the Shetlands, has a well-protected port and makes an interesting stop. Strong tides and difficult navigation keep most cruising boats away from the Faroes. The capital and main harbour is Torshavn on the island of Streymoy. Approaches to Torshavn are fairly straightforward passing west of the island of Nolsoy. The only possible hazard is fish farms, which can pose a risk in poor visibility. Visiting boats normally moor on the western quay Vestaravag, close to the local yacht club. Passages originating from ports north of Bergen may find it easier to sail a route that passes to the north of the Shetlands.

There are two good ports on the SE coast of Iceland: Höfn and Djupivogur. The former is is a busy, well-sheltered fishing harbour, its main attraction being the proximity to the Vatnajökull Glacier, the largest in Europe. Further north along the coast is Djupivogur set in a well-sheltered natural harbour. The port has a good range of facilities and is the best starting point for a cruise around Iceland.

Those who prefer to sail directly to the capital Reykjavik will make their landfall off the south coast, close to Surtsey, a newly formed volcanic island. Nearby Vestmannaeyjar is a spectacular volcanic archipelago, where recent eruptions have created new islands and mountains. The route continues towards the Reykjanes Peninsula, at the SW extremity of Iceland. It then runs north, parallel to the coast, before turning east towards Reykjavik. On arrival, the port captain should be contacted on channel 12. Visiting boats may obtain a place at Brokey Yacht Club to complete formalities.

Docking facilities for visiting yachts in the capital are difficult to find and a better place to find a good berth is at Hafnarfjordur, 5 miles south of Reykjavik. The port is always busy, but visitors are never turned away. All facilities are available in the nearby town, which also boasts a highly popular Viking festival held every two years.

• AN165 Norway to Greenland

BEST TIME: | June to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4010, US 10 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A15a Voyages from Northern Europe, A15e Voyages to the Northwest Passage |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Faeroe, Iceland and Greenland, Arctic and Northern Waters. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN165A |  |  |  |  |
Bergen X | Bergen SW | Shetlands SE | Christian E | Christian | 1369
60°24.0’N, 5°19.0’E | 60°07.0’N, 4°55.0’E | 59°48.5’N, 1°10.0’W | 60°03.5’N, 42°55.0’W | 60°03.5’N, 43°08.2’W |
|  | Farewell SE | Nanortalik S | Nanortalik | 1450
|  | 59°39.0’N, 43°37.5’W | 60°00.0’N, 45°28.0’W | 60°05.0’N, 45°17.5’W |
|  |  | Paamiut S | Paamiut | 1633
|  |  | 61°53.0’N, 49°55.0’W | 61°58.0’N, 49°46.0’W |
|  |  | Nuuk SW | Nuuk | 1776
|  |  | 64°00.0’N, 52°20.0’W | 64°04.5’N, 52°7.5’W |
Route AN165B |  |  |  |  |
Solvaer | Solvaer S | Lofoten SE | Greenland E | Scoresby | 784
68°13.2’N, 14 °32.6’E | 68°13.6’N, 14°03.6’E | 67°39.0’N, 12°53.0’E | 70°21.0’N, 20°55.0’W | 70°21.5’N, 22°00.0’W |
|  |  | Ammassalik SE | Ammassalik | 1235
|  | Iceland NW | Isafjördur W | Isafjördur | 884
|  | 66°31.0’N, 23°08.0’W | 66°13.0’N, 23°44.0’W | 66°04.2’N, 22°42.0’W |
Route AN165C |  |  |  |  |
Tromsø X | Tromsø W | Mayen NE |  | Boat Bay | 572
69°38.7’N, 18°57.6’E | 69°38.5’N, 17°46.0’E | 71°01.5’N, 7°45.9’W |  | 70°55.0’N, 8°43.4’W |
|  | Mayen S | Greenland E | Scoresby | 864
|  | 70°46.0’N, 9°06.0’W |  |  |
|  |  | Ammassalik SE | Ammassalik | 1342
|  | Iceland NW | Isafjördur W | Isafjördur | 988

There are two route options open to boats sailing from continental Norway: a southern route from Southern Norway to the west coast of Greenland, and a northern route that passes to the north of Iceland and makes landfall on Greenland’s east coast. Sailed for the first time just over 1000 years ago, the southern route is slightly more benign, and a summer passage on either route should present no major problems to a well-found boat. However, conditions in Greenland itself are often far from favourable and the main difficulty is posed by ice, which only eases its grip on this enormous island during a short period at the height of summer. Along the east coast there is an ice-free strip, but offshore pack ice makes it impossible, or very dangerous, for a sailing boat to attempt to reach that coast early in the season. The west coast is mountainous with deep fjords and in the south there is an ice-free area that also includes some offshore islands. In a good year, the whole of the Davis Strait and Baffin Bay can be free of pack ice, but not of icebergs, which are never absent. Summer winds in Greenland tend to be variable, with a northerly component. On land, summer temperatures vary between 2ºC and 20ºC, but sea temperatures very rarely rise above 4ºC. This means that fog can be quite frequent in summer. On both routes there will be an almost equal percentage of SW and NE winds as far as Iceland, from where NE winds become more predominant.

Cruising anywhere in Greenland needs careful planning. As the west coast between 63ºN and 69ºN is usually clear of ice by June, the area may be reached from the east by giving Cape Farewell a wide berth. Long days, reasonable weather and acceptable temperatures make cruising possible until shorter days and deteriorating conditions signal the end of a rather too short sailing season. The East Greenland Current, which brings down ice from the Arctic, makes the east coast inhospitable throughout the year, and although by August it may be possible to reach that particular coast, the danger of being trapped inshore deters most sailors from visiting this area.

The southern route passes close to the Shetlands and Faroes, which provide convenient stops if necessary. This can also be said of Iceland, which is not too far off the direct route. The best landfall for boats on the southern route is at Prince Christian Sound, NE of Cape Farewell, close to the southern tip of Greenland. Ikerasassuaq is a spectacular sound, which provides a narrow passage north of Cape Farewell. There is always a large amount of ice in the sound, but by August most of it should have cleared. Strong winds funnel through the narrow passage and, in some years, the eastern entrance to the sound may be blocked by ice, thus making access impossible. Advice should be sought from Ice Central at Narssarssuaq, either by VHF from a coastal station or on MF from Julianehåb (Qaqortoq) Radio.

The nearest port of entry on Greenland’s west coast is Nanortalik, but in early summer the entrance may be blocked by ice, especially in southerly winds. The next port is Paamiut which is usually accessible. This used to be a busy and prosperous settlement in the heydays of cod fishing, and facilities are still reasonably good. An inshore route leads north from this well-sheltered harbour towards the capital Nuuk. However, in some summers, the coast may be blocked by ice, so an offshore route needs to be sailed to Nuuk. The approaches to Nuuk are well marked, and you will find there the best facilities in Greenland, with good provisioning.

For those planning to sail a more northerly route, the passage could start from either Lofoten or Tromsø. The former route passes close to Iceland’s north coast with a possible stop at Isafjördur, set in a well-sheltered bay at Iceland’s NW extremity. The fishing port has good facilities and is a convenient place in case it is necessary to wait for the ice to clear off the Greenland coast. The recommended landfall on that coast is near Cape Dan, which should be approached with great caution as there are dangerous rocks SW of that cape.

Ammassalik is a small town, and the main settlement on Greenland’s east coast. Facilities are adequate and there are regular flights to Reykjavik and Nuuk.

Another possible landfall further up the east coast of Greenland is at Ittoqqortoormiit, formerly known as Scoresby Sound. This is a spectacular bay that may be accessible only in late summer. There is a small settlement that has flights to the capital Nuuk. This landfall may appeal to passages starting from Tromsø as this would mean the shortest crossing to Greenland. The passage may be interrupted at Jan Mayen, a small island belonging to Norway. The only inhabited place is at Olonkinbyen, where there is a small military base and meteorological station. The island has been declared a nature reserve and landing is only permitted at the anchorage named Båtvika (Boat Bay), which is well protected in N winds. Otherwise, it may be possible to seek shelter in E winds across the island at Kvalrossbukta, while a good anchorage in S winds is at Nordbukta, just west of Nordkapp, the northern extremity of the island.

Southbound routes from Spitsbergen are described in AN177. Those planning to sail on to the Northwest Passage should consult AN171 for a detailed description of the route from Southern Greenland to the Canadian Arctic.

AN170 • High latitude routes in the North Atlantic

• | AN171 | Northbound from North America | 209
• | AN172 | Eastbound from Greenland | 212
• | AN173 | Eastbound from Iceland | 213
• | AN174 | Southbound from Greenland | 215
• | AN175 | Southbound from Iceland | 216
• | AN176 | Greenland and Iceland to Spitsbergen | 217
• | AN177 | Southbound from Spitsbergen | 218
• | AN178 | Westbound through the Northwest Passage | 219

Once considered only suitable for expeditions by the foolhardy, the far North Atlantic is now visited by increasing numbers of ordinary cruising boats, their owners undeterred by the hardships associated with sailing in high latitudes. Their efforts are more than rewarded by some of the most stunning scenery anywhere in the world, from the mighty glaciers of Greenland to the live volcanic landscape of Iceland and the spectacular fjords of Norway. Sailing conditions are far from perfect, but at least – in summer – they are rarely outright dangerous, and pose no real problems for a well-prepared boat and crew.

Most of these routes are above the area of prevailing westerlies, but the eastbound movement of summer depressions should be monitored carefully as one may be able to put to good advantage the winds generated by them. An important part in one’s routing should be the existing currents, which played a major part in the routes sailed by the early Vikings. After all, this used to be their playground, and among the best sources for information on those ancient routes are the Icelandic sagas. Written in the 12th century, the sagas describe the voyages sailed by those intrepid Norse seafarers to Iceland, Greenland and Vinland. The latter is in today’s Newfoundland where the remains of a Norse settlement were discovered at Anse aux Meadows in 1960. This proves that Leif Erikson, a Norse explorer from Iceland, had set foot in North America several hundred years before Columbus.

The routes described in this section should be read in conjunction with sections AN150 and AN160, as it would make it easier to plan a passage to any of these destinations. There are also suggestions for an Atlantic crossing in high latitudes that may follow closely the routes originated by those intrepid Viking navigators. For the real adventurer, even destinations above the Arctic Circle should be achievable and, with careful planning, a round trip from North America or Western Europe even as far as Spitsbergen, with stops in Greenland and Iceland, could be completed in one summer season. This section concludes with a route through the Northwest Passage, once considered the most challenging expedition in the world and now successfully transited by ordinary cruising boats.

AN170 High latitude routes in the North Atlantic

• AN171 Northbound from North America

BEST TIME: | June to August |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4011, US 121 |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A15e Voyages to the Northwest Passage |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to the Nova Scotia Coast, Cruising Guide to Newfoundland, Faeroe, Iceland and Greenland, Arctic andNorthern Waters.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival |  |  | Distance
Route AN171A |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |
Norfolk X | Bay | Chesapeake |  |  |  |  |  |  |
36°58.0’N, 76°22.0’W | 37°02.5’N, 76°04.0’W | 36°42.0’N, 74°48.0’W |  |  |  |  |  |  |
New York X | New York S | New York NE |  |  | St John’s | Christian | Nanortalik | Paamiut | Nuuk
40°42.0’N, 74°00.0’W Newport X 41°29.0’N, 71°20.0’W | 40°30.0’N, 73°56.5’W Newport S 41°06.5’N, 71°22.0’W | 40°24.4’N, 73°05.1’W Rhode SE 40°21.0’N, 70°16.5’W |  | Norfolk | 1307 | 2124 | 2091 | 2273 | 2417
|  |  |  |  |  | New York | 1120 | 1937 | 1904 | 2086 | 2229
Portland X | Portland SE | Scotia SW |  | Newport | 1020 | 1837 | 1804 | 1986 | 2130
43°37.5’N, 70°12.0’W Halifax 44°38.0X ’N, 63°34.0’W | 43°30.0’N, 69°59.3’ Sambro 44°27.0’N, 63°26.5’W | 43°15.0’N, 65°35.8’W Nova 44°06.0’N, 63°5.0’W |  | Portland | 889 | 1706 | 1673 | 1855 | 1999
|  |  |  |  |  | Halifax | 603 | 1420 | 1387 | 1567 | 1713
|  |  |  | [Sable] |  |  |  |  |  |  |
|  |  |  | 43°42.0’N, 60°0.0’W |  |  |  |  |  |  |
|  |  |  | Terra S | Spear | St John’s |  |
|  |  |  | 46°37.0’N, 52°23.0’W | 47°31.5’N, 52°34.2’W | 47°34.0’N, 52 °40.0’W |  |
|  |  |  | Terra E |  |  |  |  |  |  |
|  |  |  | 47°39.0’N, 52°31.0’W |  |  |  |  |  |  |
|  |  |  | Greenland S | Christian E | Christian |  |
|  |  |  | 57°38.0’N, 43°09.0’W | 60°03.5’N, 42°55.0’W | 60°03.5’N, 43°08.2’W |  |
|  |  |  |  | Nanortalik S | Nanortalik |  |
|  |  |  |  | 60°00.0’N, 45°28.0’W | 60°05.0’N, 45°17.5’W |  |
|  |  |  |  | Paamiut S | Paamiut |  |
|  |  |  |  | 61°53.0’N, 49°55.0’W | 61 °58.0’N, 49°46.0’W |  |
|  |  |  |  | Nuuk SW | Nuuk |  |
|  |  |  |  | 64°00.0’N, 52°20.0’W | 64°04.5’N, 52°07.5’W |  |
Route AN171B |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |
Norfolk X |  | Bay | Chesapeake |  |  |  |  |  |  |
New York X |  |  | New York S | New York NE |  |  |  |  |  |  |
Newport X |  |  | Newport S | Rhode SE |  |  |  |  |  |  |
Portland X |  |  | Portland SE | Scotia SW |  |  |  |  |  |  |
Halifax X |  |  | Sambro | Nova |  |  |  |  |  |  |
|  |  |  | [Sable] |  |  |  |  |  |  |
|  |  |  | Terra S | Spear | St John’s |  |  |  |
|  |  |  | Terra E |  |  |  |  |  |  |
|  |  |  | Greenland S |  |  |  |  |  |  |
|  |  |  | Iceland SW | Reykjavik W | Reykjavik |  |  |  |
| Reykjavik | safördjur | Hornafjordur
Norfolk | 2717 | 2907 | 2877 | 63°46.5’N, 22°45.0’W Iceland W 65°30.0’N, 24°52.0’W | 64°07.0’N, 22°5.0’W Isafjördur SW 66°13.0’N, 23°44.0’W | 64°09.5’N, 22 °03.0’W Isafördjur 66°04.2’N, 22 °42.0’W |  |
New York | 2530 | 2720 | 2690
Newport | 2430 | 2620 | 2590
Portland | 2299 | 2489 | 2459 | Iceland SE | Hornafjordur S | Höfn |  |  |  |  |
Halifax | 2013 | 2203 | 2173 | 63°45.0’N, 16°40.0’W | 64°13.5’N, 15°11.5’W | 64°14.9’N, 15°11.5’W |  |
Route AN171C |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |
Nuuk |  |  | Nuuk SW | Greenland W | Sisimiut SW | Sisimiut |  |  | 180 |
|  |  |  | 66°03.0’N, 54°07.0’W | 66°53.0’N, 53°55.0’W | 66°55.0’N, 53°43.5’ W |  |
|  |  |  | Greenland NW | Upernavik SW | Upernavik |  |  |  | 545
|  |  |  | 70°36.0’N, 54°52.0’W | 72°42.0’N, 56°25.0’W | 72°47.0’N, 56°09.4’W |
|  |  |  | Pond Inlet E |  | Pond Inlet |  |  |  | 878
|  |  |  | 72°43.0’N, 76°00.0’W |  | 72 °42.0’N, 77°59.0’W |

These generic routes may appeal to North American sailors planning a voyage to the Arctic, whether Greenland or Iceland. Each can be easily extended to further Arctic destinations be it Spitsbergen, Northern Norway and even to the Pacific Ocean via the Northwest Passage.

North of Newfoundland, there is the choice of sailing directly to Iceland or stopping first in Greenland. Cruising anywhere in Greenland needs careful planning. Thanks to the warm West Greenland Current Greenland’s west coast between 63ºN and 69ºN is usually clear of ice by early June. The area ought to be approached from the SE by giving Cape Farewell a wide berth, which is usually encumbered by ice in early summer. Long days, reasonable weather and acceptable temperatures make cruising possible until shorter days and deteriorating conditions signal the end of the sailing season. The East Greenland Current, which brings down ice from the Arctic, makes the east coast inhospitable for most of the year, although by August it may be possible to explore the more accessible places, such as Ammassalik and Scorsby Sound, described in AN164.

The best cruising area of Greenland is its west coast. In a good year, the whole of the Davis Strait and Baffin Bay can be free of pack ice, but not of icebergs, which are never absent. The coast is mountainous with deep fjords, some of which are easily accessible as there is an ice-free area in the SW that also includes some offshore islands. In an average summer, winds tend to be variable, with a northerly component. On land, summer temperatures vary between 2° and 20°C, but sea temperatures very rarely rise above 4°C. This means that fog can be quite frequent even in summer, although the Nuuk area is relatively free of fog.

The nearest port of entry on Greenland’s west coast is Nanortalik, but in early summer the entrance may be blocked by ice, especially in southerly winds. The next port is Paamiut, which is usually accessible. This well-sheltered harbour used to be a busy and prosperous settlement in the heyday of cod fishing, and facilities are still reasonably good. An inshore route leads north from here towards Nuuk. However, in some summers, the coast may be blocked by ice, so an offshore route may need to be sailed. The approaches to the capital Nuuk are well marked and while visiting yachts are always welcome, docking and repair facilities are disappointing.

The route continues north running parallel to the coast as far as the Greenland W waypoint. Sisimiut, Greenland’s second largest town, provides a good opportunity to obtain provisions, fuel and make crew changes. The local airport has frequent flights to Greenland’s only international airport at Kangerlussuaq. Sisimiut has good repair and haulout facilities and it is possible to make arrangements to leave the boat here between seasons. The route continues north passing Aasiaat, another town with a reasonable range of facilities. Close by is Disko Bay, the most spectacular site in the whole of Greenland, the vista being dominated by Sermeq Kujalleq, one of the most active glaciers in the world. A continuous stream of icebergs is calving from it, and it is believed that the one that sunk the Titanic also broke off from here.

From Disko Bay the northbound route continues through the channel east of Qeqertarsuak Island to Greenland NW, where it splits. The northern branch continues to the Inuit settlement of Upernavik, while the western branch crosses Davis Strait to Pond Inlet (Mittimatalik). This Inuit settlement is a convenient place to wait for the right conditions to commence a transit of the Northwest Passage. Arrival formalities for Canada can be completed here. There is good provisioning, fuel and also an airport with flights to mainland Canada.

Boats leaving Newfoundland directly for Iceland (route AN171B) will have to cross the adverse Labrador Current, although closer to Iceland the north-setting Irminger Current should make up for the ground lost earlier on. Depending on the overall weather conditions in the North Atlantic, summer depressions may pass either to the north or south of Iceland.

Landfall in Iceland should be decided by future cruising plans. The capital Reykjavík is a good starting point for those planning to cruise extensively in Iceland, which may even include a complete circumnavigation of the island. The port captain of Reykjavík should be contacted on channel 12 on arrival. A convenient place to dock and complete formalities is the Brokey Yacht Club, where visitors are welcome.

Those bound for Spitsbergen, and using Iceland only as an intermediate stopover, may decide to only stop at Isatfjördur, at the NW point of the island. This is a busy fishing harbour with good repair facilities. Those bound for eastern destinations should sail directly to Höfn in SE Iceland. The main attraction of this sheltered fishing harbour is its proximity to the Vatnajökull glacier, the largest in Europe.

• AN172 Eastbound from Greenland

BEST TIME: | June to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4011, US 10 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Faeroe, Iceland and Greenland. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN172A |  |  |  |  |
Ammassalik 65°35.0’N, 37°35.0’W Christian 60°03.5’N, 43°08.2’W | Ammassalik SE 65°24.0’N, 37°10.0’W Christian E 60°03.5’N, 42°55.0’W |  |  |  |
Nanortalik 60°05.0’N, 45°17.5’W | Nanortalik S 60°00.0’N, 45°28.0’W | Farewell SE 59°39.0’N, 43°37.5’W |  |  |
|  | Reykjavik W |  | Reykjavik | 413/653/753
|  | 64°06.0’N, 22°05.0’W |  | 64°07.2’N, 21°56.0’W |
|  | Iceland W | Isafjördur W | Isafjördur | 366/658/751
|  | 65°30.0’N, 24°52.0’W | 66°13.0’N, 23°44.0’W | 66°04.2’N, 22°42.0’W |
Route AN172B |  |  |  |  |
Christian Nanortalik | Christian E Nanortalik S | Farewell SE |  |  |
|  | Shetlands SE | Bergen SW | Bergen X | 1369/1450
|  | 59°48.5’N, 1°10.0’W | 60°07.0’N, 4°55.0’E | 60°24.0’N, 5°19.0’E |
Route AN172C |  |  |  |  |
Nanortalik | Nanortalik S | Farewell SE Rockall S 56°53.0’N, 14°11.0’W |  |  |
|  | Skerryvore S | Artach | Oban X | 1315
|  | 56°16.0’N, 7°11.0’W | 56°05.0’N, 6°35.0’W | 56°24.5’N, 5°29.5’W |
Route AN172D |  |  |  |  |
Nanortalik | Nanortalik S | Farewell SE Mizen 51°24.0’N, 10°02.0’W Fastnet 51°17.0’N, 9°36.0’W Kinsale 51°35.0’N, 8°31.5’W |  |  |
|  | Cork SW | Roche | Crosshaven | 1360
|  | 51°43.0’N, 8°16.0’W | 51°47.25’N, 8°15.6’W | 51°48.6’N, 8°16.2’W |
|  | Bishop | Lizard | Falmouth | 1367
|  | 49°48.0’N, 6°26.4’W | 49°55.0’N, 5°10.0’W | 50°08.0’N, 5°02.0’W |
|  | Monks | Brest W | Brest | 1386
|  | 48°19.5’N, 4°46.5’W | 48°19.5’N, 4°37.0’W | 48°21.0’N, 4°29.0’W |

Winds on eastbound passages from Greenland to any of the destinations listed above are favourable throughout the summer and the latest pilot charts show a high percentage of W and SW winds. One major concern is icebergs, which are brought southward by the East Greenland Current, so a permanent watch must be kept, especially in the area close to Greenland. For boats coming from the west coast of Greenland, a good departure point is Prince Christian Sound, as it offers good shelter if one needs to wait for better weather. From the lighthouse that marks the entrance into the sound, a direct course leads to a point off the Reykjanes Peninsula in the approaches to Reykjavik. On arrival, the port captain should be contacted on channel 12. Visiting boats may obtain a place at Brokey Yacht Club to complete formalities.

Boats leaving from Ammassalik, having cleared the dangers close to Cape Dan, should set a course that will take them across the Denmark Strait. The most convenient landfall port is Isafjördur, occupying a sheltered position in a fjord on the NW side of Vestfirdir. This is the large peninsula that forms the NW of Iceland, a spectacular area indented by deep fjords. Because of the proximity of the East Greenland Current, which sweeps through the Denmark Strait, this is the coldest part of Iceland and snow lingers well into the summer. Isafjördur is the main settlement on the south side of the fjord of that name. It has good facilities and communications, and is an excellent base from which to explore the surrounding area, whether by boat or land.

A fast passage is assured for those bound for the west coast of Norway along the classic Viking route that passes the Faroes, Orkneys and Shetland Islands, with many attractive cruising opportunities all around. The same holds true for the route leading to Western Scotland and continuing to Fort William and the Caledonian Canal for those bound to Southern Scandinavia or Germany and not interested in the offshore route. The route to Southern Ireland may be interrupted at Galway or Valentia, or extended all the way to the English Channel and the Bay of Biscay.

• AN173 Eastbound from Iceland

BEST TIME: | June to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4010, 4011, US 10 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Faeroe, Iceland and Greenland, Norwegian Cruising Guide. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN173A |  |  |  |  |
Isafjördur 66°04.2’N, 22°42.0’W Djupivogur 64°39.8’N, 14°16.7’W | Isafjördur W 66°19.0’N, 23°22.0’W Djupivogur SE 64°35.0’N, 14°15.0’W | Iceland NW 66°31.0’N, 23°08.0’W Lofoten SE 67°39.0’N, 12°03.0’E |  |  |
|  | Lofoten S 67°20.0’N, 12°00.0’E | Solvaer S 68°13.6’N, 14°03.6’E | Solvaer 68°13.2’N, 14°32.6’E | 884/713
Route AN173B |  |  |  |  |
Reykjavik 64°07.2’N, 21°56.0’W Djupivogur Höfn 64°14.9’N, 15°11.5’W | Reykjavik W 64°06.0’N, 22°05.0’W Djupivogur SE Hornafjordur S 64°13.5’N, 15°11.5’W | Iceland SW 63°46.5’N, 22°45.0’W Faroes S 61°13.0’N, 6°44.0’W |  |  |
|  | Shetlands SE | Bergen SW | Bergen X | 873/617/603
|  | 59°48.5’N, 1°10.0’W | 60°07.0’N, 4°55.0’E | 60°24.0’N, 5°19.0’E |
Route AN173C |  |  |  |  |
Reykjavik Djupivogur | Reykjavik W Djupivogur SE | Iceland SW Kilda 57°51.0’N, 8°51.0’W Barra S 56°44.0’N, 7°43.8’W |  |  |
|  | Skerryvore S 56°16.0’N, 7°11.’W | Artach 56°05.0’N, 6°35.0’W | Oban X 56°24.5’N, 5°29.5’W | 759/611
Route AN173D |  |  |  |  |
Djupivogur Hornafjordur | Djupivogur SE Hornafjordur S | Rockall E 57°35.5’N, 13°28.8’W Ireland SW 52°05.0’N, 10°50.0’W Mizen 51°24.0’N, 10°02.0’W Fastnet 51°17.0’N, 9°36.0’W |  |  |
|  | Kinsale 51°35.0’N, 8°31.5’W |  |  |
|  | Cork SW | Roche | Crosshaven | 899/885
|  | 51°43.0’N, 8°16.0’W | 51°47.25’N, 8°15.6’W | 51 °48.6’N, 8°16.2’W |
|  | Land’s End | Lizard | Falmouth | 906/892
|  | 50°00.0’N, 5°48.0’W | 49°55.0’N, 5°10.0’W | 50°08.0’N, 5°02.0’W |
|  | Monks 48°19.5’N, 4°46.5’W | Brest W 48°19.5’N, 4°37.0’W | Brest 48°21.0’N, 4°29.0’W | 915/901
Route AN173E |  |  |  |  |
Djupivogur | Djupivogur SE |  |  |  |
Hornafjordur | Hornafjordur S | Kilda |  |  |
|  | Barra S Islay W 55°39.0’N, 6°35.5’W Kintyre SW 55°16.0’N, 5°54.0’W Galloway SW 54°34.0’N, 5°07.3’W Man SW 54°04.0’N, 5°08.0’W Smalls 51°40.0’N, 5°50.0’W |  |  |
|  | Land’s End | Lizard | Falmouth | 1042/1028
|  | Monks | Brest W | Brest | 1184/1170

Eastbound passages from Iceland fall into two distinct categories: those that are undertaken early in the season either by boats that have spent the winter locally or have arrived from Canada or the USA and are bound for Northern Europe, or late-summer voyages by European boats returning home from Newfoundland, Greenland or Iceland itself. Route AN173A is the most northerly and therefore well outside the area of prevailing westerly winds. As north of Iceland winds in early summer have a higher NE component than from any other direction, a passage to Northern Norway will be mostly on the wind. Passages to Southern Norway will have a mixture of N winds at the start being gradually replaced by SW winds. One of the ports on the SE coast of Iceland is therefore to be preferred to start from, especially if the intention is to stop in the Faroes or Shetlands. Passages to more southern destinations, whether in Scotland or Ireland, should make allowance for the increasing percentage of SW winds in the latter part of the voyage. For this reason, a more westerly departure point, such as Reykjavik, is to be preferred.

Because of the chance of encountering steady SW winds in the latter part of the passage, those starting from a port in SE Iceland and bound for destinations in Southern Ireland or England may prefer to sail instead via Western Scotland. For boats bound for southern Europe, the route via western Ireland is to be preferred, as it has the best chance of a high proportion of favourable winds.

• AN174 Southbound from Greenland

BEST TIME: | July to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November (southern destinations) |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4011, US 121 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to Newfoundland, Cruising Guide to the Coast of Nova Scotia. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Nuuk 64°04.5’N, 52°7.5’W Nanortalik 60°05.0’N, 45°17.5’W | Nuuk SW 64°00.0’N, 52°20.0’W Nanortalik S 60°00.0’N, 45°28.0’W |  |  |  |
Christian | Christian E | Terra E |  | St John’s X | 991/850/831
60°03.5’N, 43°08.2’W | 60°03.5’N, 42°55.0’W | 47°39.0’N, 52°31.0’W |  | 47°34.0’N, 52°40.0’W |
|  | Spear 47°31.5’N, 52°34.2’W |  |  |
|  | Terra S |  |  |
|  | 46°37.0’N, 52°23.0’W [Sable] 43°42.0’N, 60°00.0’W |  |  |
|  | Nova 44°06.0’N, 63°05.0’W | Sambro 44°27.0’N, 63°26.5’W | Halifax X 44°38.0’N, 63°34.0’W | 1713/1391/1425
|  | Rhode SE 40°21.0’N, 70°16.5’W | Newport S 41°06.5’N, 71°22.0’W | Newport X 41°29.0’N, 71°20.0’W | 2130/1810/1844
|  | New York NE 40°24.4’N, 73°05.1’W | New York S 40°30.0’N, 73°56.5’W | New York X 40°42.0’N, 74 °00.0’W | 2229/1904/1937
|  | Chesapeake 36°42.0’N, 74°48.0’W | Bay 37°02.5’N, 76°04.0’W | Norfolk X 36°58.0’N, 76°22.0’W | 2417/2091/2124
|  | Bermuda NE 32°26.5’N, 64°34.0’W | Bermuda E 32°22.0’N, 64°38.0’W | St George’s 32 °22.7’N, 64 °39.8’W | 2015/1878/1912

This is a route strictly for late summer when reasonable conditions can be expected on the way south, although with a high proportion of SW winds south of Newfoundland. There is a choice of points of departure but, as in late summer the spectacular Christian Sound should be completely free of ice, even if a detour would lengthen the passage, it would be well justified. Because of the concentration of ice around Cape Farewell in early summer, if sailing on a direct course for the east coast of Newfoundland, careful watch should be kept for icebergs south of Cape Farewell. Generally, on any of the southbound routes, icebergs can be a risk even at the height of summer, and in some years ice can pose a hazard almost as far south as Nova Scotia, so the situation should be monitored carefully. When sailing in bad visibility you should be aware of the fact that some of the smaller icebergs may not show up on radar. The risk of ice and weather conditions in the Northern Atlantic generally make for a very short sailing season as by September there is already the possibility of gales.

Any of these routes can be sailed nonstop, but few decide to do so and one of the ports en route rarely missed is that of St John’s in Newfoundland. Facilities are good and there are air links to many destinations, both national and international.

• AN175 Southbound from Iceland

BEST TIME: | June to August (northern destinations), May to mid-June (southern destinations) |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November (southern destinations) |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4011, US 11 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Bermuda Discovered, Cruising Guide to Newfoundland, Cruising Guide to the Coast of Nova Scotia, Cruising Guide to the New England Coast.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Reykjavik64°07.2’N, 21°56.0’W | Reykjavik W 64°06.0’N, 22°05.0’W | Iceland SW63°46.5’N, 22°45.0’W Spear 47°31.5’N, 52°34.2’W | Terra E 47°39.0’N, 52°31.0’W | St John’s47°34.0’N, 52°40.0’W | 1672/1448
|  | Terra S |  |  |
|  | 46°37.0’N, 52°23.0’W [Sable] 43°42.0’N, 60°00.0’WNova44°06.0’N, 63°05.0’WRhode SE40°21.0’N, 70°16.5’WNew York NE40°24.4’N, 73°05.1’WChesapeake36°42.0’N, 74°48.0’W | Sambro 44°27.0’N, 63°26.5’WNewport S 41°06.5’N, 71°22.0’WNew York S 40°30.0’N, 73°56.5’WBay37°02.5’N, 76°04.0’W | Halifax X44°38.0’N, 63°34.0’WNewport X 41°29.0’N, 71°20.0’WNew York X 40°42.0’N, 74 °00.0’WNorfolk X36°58.0’N, 76°22.0’W | 2275/20132692/24302792/25302979/2717
|  | Terra S |  |  |
|  | Bermuda NE32°26.5’N, 64°34.0’W | Bermuda E 32°22.0’N, 64°38.0’W | St George’s32 °22.7’N, 64 °39.8’W | 2666/2499

This route can be sailed nonstop by those who do not have time to stop in Greenland or do not intend to make a detour to St John’s in Newfoundland. In order to reduce the chance of encountering ice brought south by the East Greenland Current, a route should be sailed that passes well clear of Cape Farewell. The effects of the various currents that one will encounter should also be taken into account – first the contrary Irminger Current, and later the favourable Labrador Currents. Even so, one should be alert as icebergs can drift much further south than expected.

The area of Reykjavik, where Iceland’s top yachting facilities are concentrated, is the best place to prepare for this passage. A stop in St John’s is recommended before continuing towards a port in the Gulf of Maine or New England. As this is an area of prevailing SW winds, southbound boats will be better off sailing directly to Bermuda. One major consideration to be borne in mind is that Bermuda is affected by hurricanes, which may pose a risk on the southbound route between late June and November, although August to October is the more dangerous period, with September being the worst month. Therefore an early-summer passage to Bermuda will be safer than one later in the season, when weather conditions further south should be monitored carefully.

Passages to any of the other suggested destinations will encounter SW winds throughout the summer, their average strength increasing with the approach of autumn. For those who are planning to sail to further destinations such as the Bahamas or Eastern Caribbean, the direction of the winds becomes more favourable in September and October as they gradually back to NW. For this reason, if possible, an attempt should be made to gain some westing in the early part of the passage, so as to benefit from a better sailing angle further south. The same applies to passages to Bermuda, and for this reason it may be a good idea to use this island as an intermediate stop to wait for the right conditions for the continuation of the voyage to even more southerly destinations. However, the fact that the tropical storm season lasts until November must be borne in mind as the risk of a late hurricane increases as your approach the latitude of Bermuda. See AN143 for information on Bermuda.

• AN176 Greenland and Iceland to Spitsbergen

BEST TIME: | June to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4010, US 10 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Norway, Faeroe, Iceland and Greenland. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN176A |  |  |  |  |
Nuuk | Nuuk SW |  |  |  | 1479/2056
64°04.5’N, 52°7.5’W | 64°00.0’N, 52°20.0’W |  |  |  |
Paamiut | Paamiut S |  |  |  | 1290/1867
61°58.0’N, 49°46.0’W | 61°53.0’N, 49°55.0’W |  |  |  |
Nanortalik | Nanortalik S | Farewell SE |  |  | 1107/1718
60°05.0’N, 45°17.5’W | 60°00.0’N, 45°28.0’W | 59°39.0’N, 43°37.5’W |  |  |
Christian | Christian E |  |  |  | 1048/1625
60°03.5’N, 43°08.2’W | 60°03.5’N, 42°55.0’W |  |  |  |
Isafjördur | Isafjördur N | Iceland NW | Mayen S | Boat Bay | 420/997
66°04.0’N, 23°08.0’W | 66°20.0’N, 23°20.0’W | 66°23.0’N, 23°20.0’W | 70°46.0’N, 09°06.0’W | 70°55.0’N, 8°43.4’W |
|  | Mayen NE 71°01.5’N, 07°45.9’W | Longyearbyen W 78°03.0’N, 12°58.0’E | Longyearbyen 78°15.0’N, 15°10.0’E |
Route AN176B |  |  |  |  |
Reykjavik 64°07.2’N, 21°56.0’W | Iceland W 64°06.0’N, 22°05.0’W |  |  |  |
Isafjördur | Isafjördur W | Iceland NW | Mayen S | Boat Bay | 612/420
|  | Mayen NE | Longyearbyen W | Longyearbyen | 1188/997
Route AN176C |  |  |  |  |
Djupivogur | Djupivogur SE |  | Spitsbergen S | Sørkappoeya | 715
64°39.8’N, 14°16.7’W | 64°35.0’N, 14°15.0’W |  | 76°25.2’N, 16°26.5’E | 76°33.5’N, 16°29.6’E |
|  |  | Hornsund SW | Hornsund | 739
|  |  | 76°53.0’N, 15°10.0’E | 76°58.0’N, 15°41.0’E |
|  |  | Longyearbyen W | Longyearbyen | 815

The short summer season in Svalbard, Norway’s Arctic archipelago of which Spitsbergen is the largest island, dictates an early start wherever this voyage may start from. The ideal time to be in Svalbard is from the middle of June to early August, a bare six weeks of reasonably warm weather, when the ice and snow have retreated enough to give the local flora and fauna the chance to enjoy the brief summer. However, there is a high price to pay if you wish to be there at the start of the season, as favourable SW winds will soon be replaced north of Iceland by winds from the opposite direction. Indeed, in early June the prevailing winds in those waters are NE to NW, something that the Vikings knew only too well and put to good use to make their westbound passages. By July, SW and N winds along this route attain parity, with SW winds becoming more pronounced as the summer progresses.

Whether a voyage originates in Southern Greenland or Western Iceland, the fishing port of Isafjördur, north of Reykjavik at Iceland’s NW extremity, provides an excellent jumping-off point, with good provisioning and a range of repair facilities. A good departure point is off Vestfirdir Peninsula, from where a direct course can be steered for Sørkapp, the southern extremity of Jan Mayen. Conveniently located almost at the halfway mark, this island provides a tempting stop. It is interesting to note that whereas the relatively lower latitudes were sailed by the Vikings around the turn of the first millennium, the Irish monk Brendan actually set foot on Jan Mayen in the seventh century, and his description of the ‘black and scorched island’ is the first written record of any Arctic exploration.

Because of the submerged rocks that virtually surround the island, the coast should be approached cautiously. The only inhabited place is at Olonkinbyen, where there is a small military base and meteorological station. The island has been declared a nature reserve and landing is only permitted at the anchorage named Båtvika (Boat Bay), which is well protected in N winds. However, it may be possible to seek shelter in E winds across the island at Kvalrossbukta, while a good anchorage in S winds is at Nordbukta, just west of Nordkapp, the northern extremity of the island. This is a good departure point for the continuation of the voyage.

Extra care should be taken when sailing north of Iceland because of the danger posed by the icebergs carried south by the East Greenland Current. Another serious hazard in the Barents Sea are large floating logs, which are partly submerged and almost impossible to see. Fog is frequent in summer, especially as one approaches Spitsbergen. Boats approaching Spitsbergen from the SW should make landfall off Cape Linné, at the entrance into Isfjorden, on Spitsbergen’s west coast. The main settlement and capital Longyearbyen, is located on the south side of the deep fjord.

Visiting yachts must obtain a cruising permit from the Svalbard Governor before arrival and are required to have insurance cover for SAR operations. For details, write in advance to: Sysselmannen på Svalbard, N-9170 Longyearbyen, Norway. Longyearbyen is the administrative centre and has the best facilities, and also frequent flights to Oslo and Tromsø. For more details on Spitsbergen, refer to AN154 and AN163.

• AN177 Southbound from Spitsbergen

BEST TIME: | July to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4010, US 10 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Guide to Newfoundland, Cruising Guide to the Nova Scotia Coast, Cruising Guide to Labrador, Cruising Guide to the New England Coast, Chesapeake Bay to Florida, Bermuda Discovered.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AN177A |  |  |  |  |
Longyearbyen | Longyearbyen W |  | Mayen NE | Boat Bay | 587
78°15.0’N, 15°10.0’E | 78°3.0’N, 12°58.0’E |  | 71°01.5’N, 7°45.9’W | 70°55.0’N, 8°43.4’W |
|  | Mayen S | Greenland E | Scoresby | 961
|  | 70°46.0’N, 9°06.0’W | 70°21.0’N, 20°55.0’W | 70°21.5’N, 22°.0’W |
|  | Iceland NW | Isafjördur W | Isafjördur | 997
|  | 66°23.0’N, 23°20.0’W | 66°20.0’N, 23°20.0’W | 66°04.0’N, 23°08.0’W |
|  |  | Iceland W | Reykjavik | 1190
|  |  | 65°30.0’N, 24°52.0’W | 64°07.2’N, 21°56.0’W |
|  |  | Ammassalik SE | Ammassalik | 1334
|  |  | 65°24.0’N, 37°10.0’W | 65°35.0’N, 37°35.0’W |
|  |  | Christian E | Christian | 1625
|  |  | 60°03.5’N, 42°55.0’W | 60°03.5’N, 43°08.2’W |
|  | Farewell SE | Nanortalik S | Nanortalik | 1718
|  | 59°39.0’N, 43°37.5’W | 60°00.0’N, 45°28.0’W | 60°05.0’N, 45°17.5’W |
|  |  | Paamiut S | Paamiut | 1867
|  |  | 61°53.0’N, 49°55.0’W | 61°58.0’N, 49°46.0’W |
|  |  | Nuuk SW | Nuuk | 2056
|  |  | 64°00.0’N, 52°20.0’W | 64°04.5’N, 52 °7.5’W |
Route AN177B |  |  |  |  |
Longyearbyen | Longyearbyen W | Norway W | Bergen SW | Bergen X | 1142
|  | 61°02.0’N, 04°24.0’E | 60°07.0’N, 4°55.0’E | 60°24.0’N, 5°19.0’E |
Route AN177C |  |  |  |  |
Longyearbyen | Longyearbyen W | Spitsbergen SW |  |  |
|  | 77°31.0’N, 13°18.0’E |  |  |
|  | Spitsbergen S |  | Sørkappoeya | 103
|  | 76°25.2’N, 16°26.5’E |  | 76°33.5’N, 16°29.6’E |
|  | Bear W | Bear S | Sørhamna | 270
|  | 74°19.0’N, 19°03.5’E | 74°21.2’N, 19°10.4’E | 74°21.8’N, 19°09.8’E |
|  | Tromsø N 70°10.0’N, 18°23.0’E |  | Tromsø X 69°38.7’N, 18°57.6’E | 521
Route AN177D |  |  |  |  |
Longyearbyen | Longyearbyen W | Shetlands E 60°26.0’N, 0°38.0’W Lerwick S 60°04.5’N, 01°08.5’W | Lerwick N 60°11.5’N, 1°08.0’W | Lerwick 60°08.5’N, 1°08.0’W | 1145
|  | Shetlands SE | Moray W | Inverness | 1329
|  | 59°48.5’N, 1°10.0’W | 57°48.0’N, 3°33.0’W | 57°38.5’N, 3°57.0’W |
|  |  | Peterhead NE | Peterhead | 1341
|  | Orkneys N 59°28.0’N, 2°56.0’W Wrath 58°42.0’N, 5°00.0’W North Minch 58°14.5’N, 6°01.0’W Shiant W 57°55.3’N, 6°26.5’W Sky W 57°26.3’N, 6°58.2’W | 57°30.0’N, 1°45.6’W | 57°29.7’N, 1°46.3’W |
|  | Skerryvore S | Artach | Oban X | 1535
|  | 56°16.0’N, 7°11.3’W | 56°05.0’N, 6°35.0’W | 56°24.5’N, 5°29.5’W |
|  | Islay W 55°39.0’N, 6°35.5’W Kintyre SW 55°16.0’N, 5°54.0’W Galloway SW 54°34.0’N, 5°07.3’W Man SW 54°04.0’N, 5°08.0’W Smalls 51°40.0’N, 5°50.0’W |  |  |
|  | Land’s End | Lizard | Falmouth | 1968
|  | 50°00.0’N, 5°48.0’W | 49°55.0’N, 5°10.0’W | 50°08.0’N, 50°02.0’W |
|  | Monks | Brest W | Brest | 2060
|  | 48°19.5’N, 4°46.5’W | 48°19.5’N, 4°37.0’W | 48°21.0’N, 4°29.0’W |

The end of the favourable Arctic season arrives quite abruptly and southbound passages should be planned for not later than the middle of August. There are two main route options: a westerly route to Iceland, Greenland and further destinations in either Canada or USA, and an easterly route to continental Norway and Northern Europe. The latter may be accomplished either entirely offshore or at a more leisurely pace, with a choice of attractive stops along the way. Indeed, as the southbound routes follow the sun, now is the time to enjoy some of the places that had been missed on the way north. Although waypoints have been listed for Western Iceland, more favourable conditions will be encountered if a course is set to pass east of Iceland to avoid the risk of ice south of Greenland.

By late July the winds on the western route usually have a northerly component and may last as far south as Iceland. From that point on, SW winds take over and become predominant further south. Sailing conditions along the eastern routes in late July and early August are similar, with mostly NE winds blowing at the start but also being replaced by SW winds as the voyage progresses.

Facilities in Longyearbyen can only be described as adequate to prepare for the forthcoming passage, although provisioning is good. Much better facilities will be found if landfall is made in Tromsø by those who intend to cruise the length of Norway’s west coast. On the offshore route, Lerwick and Bergen provide convenient intermediate stops. From there on, the route continues to destinations in Southern Scandinavia or the east coast of Scotland. A more western route can be sailed to the west coast of Scotland, or continue south through the Irish Sea and more distant destinations.

• AN178 Westbound through the Northwest Passage

BEST TIME: | August to mid-September
TROPICAL STORMS: | None
CHARTS: | BA 4050, US 50
World Voyage Planner: | A15e Voyages to the Northwest Passage
CRUISING GUIDES: | Arctic and Northern Waters, Aleutian Islands and the Alaska Peninsula.

The Northwest Passage is a sea route connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans that winds its way through the Canadian Arctic Archipelago and past Northern Alaska. As a result of climate change, in recent years the Northwest Passage has been open to navigation for a limited time during late summer and early autumn.

In the history of maritime exploration no other part of the world has proved to be more difficult and has taken longer to conquer than the Northwest Passage. In the last five centuries there has been a succession of failed attempts to discover a way through, and it was only early in the last century that the Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen finally managed to complete an east to west transit in the sloop Gjøa in 1906. A number of specially reinforced ships have made the transit in subsequent years, but it was only in August 2007 that the Northwest Passage became open to ships without the need of an icebreaker. Although the passage is never entirely free of ice, cruising boats are currently completing the transit on a regular basis.

Centuries of failed expeditions have resulted in a well-defined strategy for a transit of the Northwest Passage, but one that is still entirely at the mercy of ice conditions. During the short summer season, the sea ice, which has formed over the long winter, as well as the old ice left from previous winters, melts to a greater or lesser extent. The ice usually retreats from west to east (Pacific to Atlantic), which means that in most years the eastern sector of the Northwest Passage is the last to become free of ice. The strategy for an east to west passage is to arrive in the eastern approaches in late July or early August, and be prepared to wait until the ice has retreated to such an extent that a transit of the central section of the Northwest Passage may be safely attempted. Dundas Harbour in Lancaster Sound is a convenient and sheltered anchorage to wait for the right conditions. The Canadian Ice Service publish daily detailed charts of ice conditions and are the best source for deciding when it is safe to proceed (https://www.canada.ca/en/environment-climate-change/services/ice-forecasts-observations/latest-conditions.html).

In recent years, the main hurdle to overcome has been Peel Sound, a potential choke-point that has been entirely blocked by ice on several occasions. The solution is to bypass it by using the shortcut provided by Bellot Strait, which is usually free of ice in late summer. Most recent westbound transits have been completed along the following route: Lancaster Sound, Regent Inlet, Bellot Strait, Franklin Strait, Queen Maud Gulf, Coronation Gulf, Amundsen Gulf, Beaufort Sea, Chukchi Sea, Bering Strait.

Even in summer, weather conditions can be unfavourable, with either contrary NW winds, or light winds and calms, when the only solution is to proceed under power. It is essential to be self-sufficient in every respect and, ideally, have an autonomy under power of at least 1000 miles, as fuel depots are far apart and the availability of fuel is not guaranteed. The guide Arctic and Northern Waters is an excellent source for practical information. It also lists the detailed Canadian and NOAA charts for the entire route.

Westbound boats can clear into Canada at any settlement that has a police station and, at the time of writing, formalities are quite simple. But with the increase in traffic, in order to protect the environment and Inuit communities, the Canadian government is considering imposing certain restrictions on the movement of all vessels, including pleasure craft.

As westbound transits are usually completed in late summer, and the favourable conditions will only last for a limited time, an attempt must be made to proceed at a steady pace, even at night through areas where it is safe to do so. Those who believe that they will not be able to reach the Pacific while the favourable conditions last will need to consider spending the winter at one of the settlements, with Cambridge Bay being the favourite. A late arrival in the North Pacific may result in unfavourable conditions for the continuation of the voyage to British Columbia and the US west coast. The alternative is to spend the coming winter in Dutch Harbor or Nome in Alaska.

TRANSEQUATORIAL ROUTES IN THE ATLANTIC

AT10 | • | Southbound Routes
AT20 | • | Northbound Routes

The best way to sail from one hemisphere to the other has preoccupied mariners ever since early explorers discovered the zone of calms that separates the trade wind systems of the two oceans. ‘The well known equatorial embarrassments’ is how Alexander George Findlay refers to the doldrums in his Memoir Descriptive and Explantory of the Northern Atlantic Ocean published in the 19th century, a comprehensive book in which he tries to bring together all that was known at the time about the wind systems of the North Atlantic. The best strategy for tackling the doldrums is discussed in great detail, because fast passages across the equator were still of the utmost importance to the masters of sailing ships linking Europe and North America with the rest of the world before the opening of the two great canals and the proliferation of powered vessels.

The first meteorologist who tried to put wind and weather observations on a proper scientific basis was an officer in the US Navy, Captain Matthew Fontaine Maury, who started collecting weather information in a methodical way in the early part of the 19th century and originated the pilot charts. Although primarily concerned with the weather of the North Atlantic and the best ways to speed up passages between the United States and Northern Europe, Captain Maury’s research also dealt with passages across the equator. The main dilemma faced by ships plying between the two hemispheres was where to cross the doldrums belt. It had been known for a long time that the Atlantic doldrums have a triangular shape with their base lying along the African coast, between the Cape Verdes and the equator, and becoming narrower to the west. Therefore by crossing the doldrums well to the west they may be traversed in a shorter distance.

As a result of Captain Maury’s work, based on thousands of observations obtained from the mariners whom he had persuaded to fill in special logbooks provided by him, it was suggested that the equator should be crossed between the meridians of 30°W and 31°W. As these recommendations were directed primarily at vessels sailing from North America to either Cape Horn or the Cape of Good Hope, the directions were later modified for transequatorial voyages originating in Europe so as to take full advantage of the seasonal changes in weather conditions that affect the doldrums. Specific directions for each month are necessary, not only because of the seasonal movement of the ITCZ but also because the direction of the SE trade winds tends to be more southerly when the sun is north of the equator than when it is south.

Another debate between masters of southbound sailing vessels was the best way to sail around the Cape Verde Islands, whether to westward or between the archipelago and the African coast. Taking up the challenge of Captain Maury’s arguments in favour of a westerly crossing of the equator at all times of the year, the Royal Netherlands Meteorological Institute published a comparative study of the routes followed by a number of Dutch sailing ships, both inside and outside of the Cape Verde Islands. The passage times of the 455 Dutch vessels were then compared with the times taken by 144 American vessels, many of them clippers, which had also chosen either the inside or outside route on their voyages across the equator. The results of the combined experience of 599 vessels makes fascinating reading, even if the conclusions are not as clear-cut as expected. Many more ships (340 Dutch, 111 American) decided to stay west of the islands than east (114 Dutch, 34 American), but the mean times showed only one day in favour of those that went outside. It does appear that the western track is to be preferred and the only time when the inside passage might be advantageous is between December and February, but the advantage is so small that the final decision as to which route to pursue should be determined by other considerations, which will be discussed in connection with the relevant routes.

The controversies caused by the Atlantic doldrums continue to this day and the dilemma has still to be resolved. The optimum strategy for southbound transequatorial routes is a major consideration for the skippers and navigators of the various round-the-world races, who rack their brains over which route will give them the best run to either the Cape of Good Hope or the Horn just as the masters of yesterday’s clippers did before them. However, with ever improving satellite observations, the doldrums might finally give up their secrets and land-based weather routeing services can now advise even small sailing boats on the best way to go. Much of the fun and excitement will be taken out of route planning, but at least those ‘equatorial embarrassments’ will cease to be a nuisance.

Windgrams showing a summary of wind conditions along some popular cruising routes

Fernando de Noronha to Trinidad, March
Cape Verde Islands to Fernando de Noronha, October
St Helena to Cape Verde Islands, February
Ascension Island to Bermuda, April

AT10 • Southbound Routes

• | AT11 | Canary and Cape Verde Islands to Brazil | 223
• | AT12 | West Africa to Brazil | 224
• | AT13 | Azores to Brazil | 225
• | AT14 | Bermuda and North America to Brazil | 226
• | AT15 | Eastern Caribbean to Brazil | 227

Most southbound passages are towards Brazil and the best longitude to cross the equator depends very much on the position of the Intertropical Convergence Zone at the time of the passage. Fortunately satellite pictures show its exact position, which can help those with access to this data to decide on the best strategy. The ITCZ changes not only its location but also its shape, being narrower in one area and wider in another. Being able to cross it at, or near, its narrowest part can be a great advantage and the results of several recent races were decided on the equator.

The transequatorial routes are influenced from the middle of July onwards by the SW monsoon, which blows on the African side of the Atlantic between the equator and the Cape Verde Islands. During these months easting can be made with the help of the SW winds south of latitude 10ºN and the equator should be crossed along meridian 23ºW. After August the crossing points move gradually west, being 25ºW in September and 27ºW or 28ºW in October. In November and December it is advisable to make some easting south of the Cape Verde Islands, so as to cross meridian 25ºW in about 6ºN, from where the tack giving most southing should be taken to enable the equator to be crossed not further west than 27ºW. These instructions are only guidelines, because conditions vary from year to year and a different strategy might have to be applied if the SE trades are met further north. For a southbound voyage across the equator the most convenient place to cross the doldrums is not the only consideration, for it is also important to have sufficient easting in hand to be able to keep the SE trades on the port tack past the bulge of South America.

AT10 Southbound routes

• AT11 Canary and Cape Verde Islands to Brazil

BEST TIME: | September to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, 4022, US 12, 22 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A19a Voyages via the Canary and Cape Verde Islands |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising the Coast of Brazil. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AT11A |  |  |  |  |
Santa Cruz 28°27.5’N 16°14.8’N | Tenerife SE 28°07.5’N, 16°16.45.0’W |  |  |  |
Las Palmas | Canaria SE | Verde NE | Vicente NW | Mindelo | 686
28°07.3’N, 15°24.0’W | 27°48.0’N, 15°21.0’W | 17°08.0’N, 24°55.0’W | 16°54.5’N, 25°0.5’W | 16°53.2’N, 25°00.1’W |
|  | Vicente W 16°54.0’N, 25°3.0’W |  |  |
|  | Noronha N 3°47.0’S, 32°23.0’W | Noronha NW 3°49.0’S, 32°24.3’W | Fernando de Noronha 3°49.9’S, 32°24.3’W | 2189
|  | Noronha W | Natal NE | Natal | 2391
|  | 3°52.6’S, 32°29.6’W | 5°44.0’S, 35°09.0’W | 5°44.8’S, 35°11.7’W |
|  |  | Pessoa NE | Pessoa | 2466
|  |  | 6°51.0’S, 34°45.0’W | 6°57.5’S, 34°51.0’W |
|  |  | Recife NE | Recife | 2539
|  |  | 8°00.0’S, 34°47.5’W | 8°02.5’S, 34°51.0’W |
|  | Salvador E 13°02.0’S, 38°27.0’W | Salvador S 13°00.8’S, 38°32.5’W | Salvador 12°58.0’S, 38°32.0’W | 2861
Route AT11B |  |  |  |  |
Las Palmas | Canaria SE | Sal NW 16°59.0’N, 23°17.5’W |  |  |
|  | Santiago NE | Praia SE | Praia | 935
|  | 15°28.0’N, 23°30.5’W | 14°54.0’N, 23°29.0’W | 14°54.2’N, 23°30.5’W |
|  | Praia S |  |  |
|  | 14°53.0’N, 23°30.5’W |  |  |
|  | Noronha N | Noronha NW | Fernando de Noronha | 2177
|  | Noronha W | Natal NE | Natal | 2380
|  |  | Pessoa NE | Pessoa | 2455
|  |  | Recife NE | Recife | 2527
|  | Salvador E | Salvador S | Salvador | 2866
Route AT11C |  |  |  |  |
Las Palmas | Canaria SE | Verde NE | Vicente NW | Mindelo | 868
|  |  | Fortaleza E | Fortaleza | 2341
|  |  | 3°40.0’S, 38°24.3’W | 3°41.8’S, 38°29.0’W |
|  |  | Amazon NE | Belém X | 2635
|  |  | 0°06.0’S, 47°33.6’W | 1°27.0’N, 48°33.0’W |
Route AT11D |  |  |  |  |
Mindelo | Vicente W |  | Fortaleza E | Fortaleza | 1473
|  |  | Amazon NE | Belém X | 1767
Route AT11E |  |  |  |  |
Praia | Praia S |  | Fortaleza E | Fortaleza | 1429
|  |  | Amazon NE | Belém X | 1776

The timing of this passage is dictated primarily by the preferred time of arrival in Brazil, rather than by sailing conditions expected en route. The passage across the doldrums presents a major dilemma, with opinions divided over the best place to cross the equator. The first decision, however, is whether to sail inside or outside the Cape Verde Islands after leaving the Canaries. If a stop in either the Cape Verde Islands or in West Africa is not being considered, it is probably better to keep slightly to the west of the Cape Verde Islands. Depending on the time of year, the NE trades will be lost somewhere between 10ºN (September) and 4ºN (December). As the Atlantic doldrums belt narrows towards the west, it is more logical for those bound for ports in Northern Brazil to try and cross it nearer the Brazilian coast. However, boats bound for ports south of Cape São Roque, at the NE extremity of Brazil, should keep sufficient easting so as to have a reasonable sailing angle when they meet the SE trade winds south of the ITCZ. Boats crossing the doldrums near the African coast normally have to go further in search of the SE trade winds than those that cross further west. The width of the doldrums fluctuates greatly according to season and longitude, being anything from 100 to 300 miles wide. For this reason, passages to ports in Northern Brazil are better sailed nonstop so that the equator is crossed further west. Southbound vessels normally find the SE trade winds between the equator (July) and latitude 3ºS (January), although winds with a southerly component may be encountered anywhere south of 10ºN.

On leaving the Canaries the direct route runs SSW and passes close to the NW of the Cape Verde Islands. This route to the west of the Cape Verdes is to be preferred between October and January, when steadier winds are found west of those islands.

Although the route crosses a potential breeding ground for hurricanes to the west of the Cape Verde Islands, these storms rarely reach hurricane force while they are still developing, so the passage can be made at any time of the year.

As the Cape Verde Islands are close to the direct route, the first two routes list waypoints for a stop in either Mindelo or Praia. The former is to be preferred as it is closer to the direct route and has a marina, whereas facilities in Praia are fairly basic. A popular stop for boats en route to Brazil is Fernando de Noronha, an archipelago lying some 200 miles off the Brazilian coast. The archipelago is a nature reserve, and both landing and anchoring restrictions are in place. Formalities are completed at the main settlement, where there is also a reasonably well-protected anchorage. Another convenient port of entry into Brazil, just south of the equator, is Fortaleza.

Between October and February NE winds prevail along the Brazilian coast between Cape São Roque and Cape Frio, making southbound passages easy, also helped by the SW-setting current.

• AT12 West Africa to Brazil

BEST TIME: | October to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, 4022, US 12, 22 |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising the Coast of Brazil. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AT12A |  |  |  |  |
Banjul 13°28.0’N, 16°34.0’W Dakar 14°40.0’N, 17°24.6’W | Gambia 13°35.0’N, 16°45.0’W Dakar S 14°38.0’N, 17°26.0’W | Senegal W 14°30.0’N, 17°43.0’W |  |  |
|  | Noronha N | Noronha NW | Fernando de Noronha | 1413/1426
|  | 3°47.0’S, 32°23.0’W | 3°49.0’S, 32°24.3’W | 3°49.9’S, 32 °24.3’W |
|  | Noronha W | Natal NE | Natal | 1616/1629
|  | 3°52.6’S, 32°29.6’W | 5°44.0’S, 35°9.0’W | 5°44.8’S, 35°11.7’W |
|  |  | Pessoa NE | Pessoa | 1693/1705
|  |  | 6°51.0’S, 34°45.0’W | 6°57.5’S, 34°51.0’W |
|  |  | Recife NE | Recife | 1706/1719
|  |  | 8°00.0’S, 34°47.5’W | 8°02.5’S, 34°51.0’W |
|  | Salvador E | Salvador S | Salvador | 2097/2110
|  | 13°02.0’S, 38°27.0’W | 13°00.8’S, 38°32.5’W | 12°58.0’S, 38°32.0’W |
Route AT12B |  |  |  |  |
Banjul | Gambia |  |  |  |
Dakar | Dakar S | Senegal W | Amazon NE | Belém X | 2106/2085
|  |  | 0°06.0’S, 47°33.6’W | 1°27.0’N, 48°33.0’W |

West Africa has started to attract more cruising boats and most of those that cruise there continue their voyage to Brazil before sailing on to the Caribbean. The transequatorial passage requires careful planning as the doldrums belt in the proximity of the African coast can be 200–400 miles wide. Even if one is prepared to motor through it, a power-assisted passage through the doldrums can be very uncomfortable because of the confused swell generated by the trade wind systems meeting at that point. It is therefore recommended to try and stay with the NE trades north of the equator and only cross it in longitude 27ºW or 28ºW. A more westerly crossing point is not advisable if making for ports south of Cape São Roque, at the NE extremity of Brazil, because of the risk of headwinds south of the equator.

Although the route crosses a potential breeding ground for hurricanes to the west of the Cape Verde Islands, these storms rarely reach hurricane force while they are still developing, so the passage can be made at any time of the year.

A convenient and favourite landfall in Brazil is Fernando de Noronha, a group of small islands about 200 miles off the mainland coast. This is an ideal place to have a rest before continuing the voyage to one of the destinations that have been listed. Between October and February, the winds along the coast south of Cape São Roque are northerly.

• AT13 Azores to Brazil

BEST TIME: | October to January |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | August to October (Azores) |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, 4022, US 12, 22 |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising the Coast of Brazil. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Horta | Faial SE |  |  |  |
38°32.1’N, 28°37.0’W | 38°30.5’N, 28°37.0’W |  |  |  |
Vila do Porto | Maria S | Noronha N | Noronha NW | Fernando de Noronha | 2732/2525
36°56.3’N, 25°8.9’W | 36°55.0’N, 25°8.0’W | 3°47.0’S, 32°23.0’W | 3°49.0’S, 32°24.3’W | 3°49.9’S, 32 °24.3’W |
|  | Noronha W | Natal NE | Natal | 2935/2728
|  | 3°52.6’S, 32°29.6’W | 5°44.0’S, 35°9.0’W | 5°44.8’S, 35°11.7’W |
|  |  | Pessoa NE | Pessoa | 3011/2805
|  |  | 6°51.0’S, 34°45.0’W | 6°57.5’S, 34°51.0’W |
|  |  | Recife NE | Recife | 3082/2818
|  |  | 8°00.0’S, 34°47.5’W | 8°02.5’S, 34°51.0’W |
|  | Salvador E | Salvador S | Salvador | 3472/3209
|  | 13°02.0’S, 38°27.0’W | 13°00.8’S, 38°32.5’W | 12 °58.0’S, 38°32.0’W |

Favourable conditions can be expected during the recommended period all along this route. The direct route passes well to the west of the Canary Islands and a possible stop there or in the Cape Verdes may be an unnecessary detour. However, depending on your final destination, the equator may have to be crossed further east of where the direct route would intersect it, and gaining some easting by stopping at any of those islands may turn out to be an advantage. As in the case of routes AT11 and AT12, the point where the equator is crossed is very important, and those bound for destinations in Southern Brazil should attempt to make their crossing further east, so as to benefit from a better sailing angle once the SE trade winds are met. Those who are bound for Northern Brazil or Fernando de Noronha can take a calculated risk and cross the equator further west.

Although the route crosses a potential breeding ground for hurricanes to the west of the Cape Verde Islands, these storms rarely reach hurricane force while they are still developing, so the passage can be made at any time of the year.

• AT14 Bermuda and North America to Brazil

BEST TIME: | May to mid-November |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, 4022, US 12, 22 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A20a Direct Voyages |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Norfolk X | Bay | Chesapeake X |  |  |
36°58.0’N, 76°22.00’W | 37°02.5’N, 76°04.0’W | 36°42.0’N, 74°48.0’W |  |  |
St George’s | Bermuda E | Bermuda SE |  |  |
32°22.7’N, 64°39.8’W | 32°22.0’N, 64°38.0’W | 32°20.5’N, 64°39.0’W |  |  |
|  | Noronha N | Noronha NW | Fernando de Noronha | 3486/2852
|  | 3°47.0’S, 32°23.0’W | 3°49.0’S, 32°24.3’W | 3°49.9’S, 32°24.3’W |
|  | Noronha W | Natal NE | Natal | 3677/3043
|  | 3°52.6’S, 32°29.6’W | 5°44.0’S, 35°9.0’W | 5°44.8’S, 35°11.7’W |
|  |  | Pessoa NE | Pessoa | 3754/3120
|  |  | 6°51.0’S, 34°45.0’W | 6°57.5’S, 34°51.0’W |
|  |  | Recife NE | Recife | 3767/3133
|  |  | 8°00.0’S, 34°47.5’W | 8°02.5’S, 34°51.0’W |
|  | Salvador E | Salvador S | Salvador | 4158/3524
|  | 13°02.0’S, 38°27.0’W | 13°00.8’S, 38°32.5’W | 12 °58.0’S, 38°32.0’W |

Choosing an optimum time for this passage from any port on the US east coast depends on several factors. A late spring start would avoid the risk of hurricanes but it would encounter less favourable sailing conditions to ports in Southern Brazil. A late November departure should avoid both the first of the winter northers and the risk of a late hurricane. If the winds at the start of the passage are favourable it may be tempting to set a direct course for the equator, but as some easting will have to be made in the later stages of the passage, it is advisable to sail an initial SE course. As the NE trade wind belt will be traversed across its entire width, the winds will be generally favourable. Although the route crosses a potential breeding ground for hurricanes to the west of the Cape Verde Islands, these storms rarely reach hurricane force while they are still developing, therefore the risk for passages during the recommended time is minimal.

It is imperative to make sufficient easting while still in the area of prevailing W or SW winds so that latitude 5ºN is crossed in the vicinity of the 25ºW meridian. In October and November the SE trades will be met at about that latitude and the recommended easting allows the equator to be crossed on the port tack. The point where the equator is crossed is governed by the width and position of the Intertropical Convergence Zone and the optimum longitudes in which the narrowest band of doldrums can be expected at different times of year are mentioned in the introduction to this chapter. In any case, boats bound for destinations in Southern Brazil should not cross the equator further west than 25–27°W, whereas those bound for Fernando de Noronha or destinations in Northern Brazil could make their crossing west of 28°W.

• AT15 Eastern Caribbean to Brazil

BEST TIME: | November to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, 4022, US 12 , 22 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising the Coast of Brazil. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AT15A |  |  |  |  |
Scarborough 11°11.0’N, 60°44.0’W Port of Spain 10°39.0’N, 61°31.0’W | Tobago S 11°10.0’N, 60°44.0’W Port of Spain W 10°37.5’N, 61°35.0’W | Trinidad W 10°31.0’N, 61°50.0’W Paria S 10°15.0’N, 62°00.0’W Trinidad SW 10°02.5’N, 61°57.0’W Trinidad S 9°54.0’N, 61°20.0’W |  |  |
|  | Trinidad SE | Noronha NW | Fernando de Noronha | 1919/2013
|  | 10°00.0’N, 60°54.0’W | 3°49.0’S, 32°24.3’W | 3°49.9’S, 32 °24.3’W |
|  | Noronha W | Natal NE | Natal | 2110/2215
|  | 3°52.6’S, 32°29.6’W | 5°44.0’S, 35°9.0’W | 5°44.8’S, 35°11.7’W |
|  |  | Pessoa NE 6°51.0’S, 34°45.0’W | Pessoa 6°57.5’S, 34°51.0’W | 2193/2298
|  |  | Recife NE 8°00.0’S, 34°47.5’W | Recife 8°02.5’S, 34°51.0’W | 2277/2382
|  | Salvador E 13°02.0’S, 38°27.0’W Abrolhos 17°42.0’S, 37°59.0’W São Tomé 22°01.5’S, 40°36.0’W | Salvador S 13°00.8’S, 38°32.5’W | Salvador 12°58.0’S, 38°32.0’W | 2592/2697
|  | Rio NE 23°01.0’S, 41°49.0’W | Rio SE 23°02.0’S, 43°03.5’W | Rio de Janeiro 22 °56.0’S, 43 °08.5’W | 3268/3373
Route AT15B |  |  |  |  |
Bridgetown 13°05.5’N, 59 °37.2’W | Barbados SW 13°04.5’N, 59°37.0’W | Barbados SE 13°02.0’N, 59°31.0’W |  |  |
English Harbour | Antigua S | Antigua SE | Noronha NW | Fernando de Noronha | 1917/2213
17°00.2’N, 61°45.8’W | 16°59.7’N, 61°46.0’W | 16°59.5’N, 61°44.0’W |  |  |
|  | Noronha W | Natal NE | Natal | 2019/2404
|  | Salvador E | Pessoa NE Recife NE Salvador S | Pessoa Recife Salvador | 2102/2487 2186/2571 2589/2885

The strong NW-setting Guyana current dissuades most people from undertaking this direct passage, and for this reason sailing an offshore route would be preferable. However, by staying close inshore, it is possible to avoid the worst of the current. By staying in relatively shallow water (30 to 50 metres), one avoids most or even all of the strong NW-setting current. If sailing very close inshore, your GPS can be a great help in assessing the strength and direction of the current. The continental shelf extends a long way offshore, with the 50-metre-depth contour as far as 40 to 80 miles from the Brazilian coast. The best time to sail south is between October and January when the prevailing winds are mostly NE.

For those who decide to sail the inshore route (AT15A), a convenient place to leave from is Trinidad. From there, the coast of South America should be followed by staying close to or even inside the 20-metre line. Because of the extensive continental shelf, shallow waters reach far offshore making it possible to sail relatively long tacks. Occasionally a favourable countercurrent will be found. Naturally, the help of a powerful engine will come in useful, as will a full range of coastal charts. As the mouth of the Amazon is approached, it is advisable to move offshore to avoid the worst of the river currents.

Although enjoying NE trade winds for most of the year, the more southerly position of Trinidad and its proximity to the mainland coast does lessen their effect in the summer months from June to November, which is also the rainy season. Being south of the hurricane area, Trinidad rarely suffers any serious storms and only two tropical storms have affected the island in this century. The difficulties associated with leaving Trinidad through the Serpent’s Mouth make a departure from neighbouring Tobago more attractive.

The three Guyanas, British (Guyana), Dutch (Suriname) and French (Guyane), will be passed on the way south. This region of the South American continent lies mainly in the belt of the NE trades, although the SE trade winds do penetrate into the area from August to October when the ITCZ moves north. May to July is the wettest season, September and October the driest months. The NE trade winds are strongest from January to March, with a more northerly component earlier in the season and more easterly later on. From May through to July there are more calms and frequent squalls as the winds gradually change from ENE to ESE. When established, the SE trade winds are not very strong and the change back to the NE in late October or early November occurs more suddenly and without the squalls that characterise the other change of season. Near the coast the winds decrease at night and pick up again in the morning; usually the earlier in the day this occurs the stronger the wind will be that day. Land breezes from SW to NW can occur close to the coast, especially towards the latter part of the year, but they do not last long. The only official port of entry into Guyana is its capital Georgetown (6º49’N, 58º11’W). For Suriname, the port of entry is the capital Paramaribo (5º50’N, 55º10’W), approximately 13 miles up the Suriname River. Entry formalities in Guyane are completed at Degrad des Cannes (4º51’N, 52º16’W), although southbound boats may be able to stop without clearing in at the Iles du Salut (5º15’N, 52º35’W), just inside the border between Suriname and Guyane as one comes south. Because of some incidents reported in Guyanese waters close to the border with Suriname, it is recommended to keep a reasonable distance offshore when sailing past both Guyana and Suriname. The first official port of entry into Brazil, just south of the equator, is Belém (01°26.0’S, 48°30.0’W) lying on the south bank of the Para River, a tributary of the Amazon, and at a distance of about 80 miles from the sea. Further along the coastal route is the port of São Luis Maranhão (2º31’S, 44º18’W).

The tactics for an offshore passage (route AT15B) are somewhat easier as the attempt should be to make some easting in the early stages, which should be easier if you leave from one of the more northern ports in the Lesser Antilles. The point where the equator should be crossed is discussed in the introduction.

For boats bound for ports south of Cape São Roque, sailing conditions during the recommended season improve dramatically as the winds along the Brazilian coast are NE between October and February. The current is also favourable as it sets SW, making it easy to reach any port along this stretch of the coast. Between March and September the winds are predominantly SE and the current sets NE. During this period southbound boats may have to sail well off the coast where the chances of finding favourable winds are better.

For boats that have sailed an offshore route and are bound for ports south of Cape São Roque, an attractive landfall is Fernando de Noronha, a group of small islands about 200 miles off the mainland coast. This is an ideal place to clear into Brazil before continuing the voyage to one of the destinations that have been listed.

AT20 • Northbound Routes

• | AT21 | Brazil to Eastern Caribbean | 230
• | AT22 | Brazil to Azores | 231
• | AT23 | Brazil to Cape Verde and Canary Islands | 232
• | AT24 | Brazil to West Africa | 233
• | AT25 | South Africa and St Helena to Eastern Caribbean | 234
• | AT26 | St Helena to Cape Verde Islands | 235
• | AT27 | St Helena to West Africa | 235
• | AT28 | South Africa and St Helena to Azores | 236
• | AT29 | South Africa and St Helena to Gibraltar | 237

AT20 Northbound routes

The routes in this section are influenced to a larger or lesser extent by the SE trade winds, which prevail throughout the year between 30°S and the equator. The point where the Line will be crossed should take into account the SE winds which could be encountered anywhere between 2°N and 10°N.

For boats bound for the Eastern Caribbean the route crosses a relatively narrow doldrums belt, whereas passages originating from further east will find better conditions by crossing the equator between longitudes 35ºW and 37ºW. North of the equator, a favourable current can be found closer to the Brazilian coast, but this means sailing through shallow waters and calls for very careful navigation, so it may be preferable to stay offshore.

As most boats sailing north from Cape Town call at St Helena, the best course from there to northern destinations is to sail west of Ascension Island so as to cross the equator between longitudes 25ºW and 30ºW. In July and August, the equator should be crossed further east, between longitudes 20ºW and 25ºW, to ensure a better wind angle north of the equator. For boats bound for the Cape Verde and Canary Islands it is absolutely essential to stay as far east as possible. Similarly, the longitude of crossing will depend greatly on the route that will be pursued in the North Atlantic, as a more easterly crossing will ensure a better slant in the NE trade winds on the subsequent leg to the Azores or Bermuda.

• AT21 Brazil to Eastern Caribbean

BEST TIME: | February to May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, 4022, US 12 | , 22 |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A3a Voyages to the Lesser Antilles |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to the Windward Islands, Sailors Guide to the Leeward Islands, Cruising Guide to Trinidad & Tobago, Barbados and Guyana.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AT21A |  |  |  |  |
Fernando de Noronha 3°49.9’S, 32 °24.3’W |  | Noronha NW 3°49.0’S, 32°24.3’W |  |  |
|  | Rocas | [Fortaleza E] | Fortaleza |   365
|  | 3°55.5’S, 33°44.0’W Acarau 2°21.5’S, 39°52.0’W | 3°40.0’S, 38°24.3’W | 3°41.8’S, 38°29.0’W |
|  | [Amazon NE] |  | Belém X | 1024
|  | 0°06.0’S, 47°33.6’W Amazon NW 0°18.0’N, 48°57.0’W |  | 18°25.5’N, 64°31.0’W |
|  | Orange 5°03.0’N, 50°43.0’W | [Mahury] 4°57.0’N, 52°9.0’W | Degrad 4°51.2’N, 52°15.0’W | 1422
|  | [Devil N] 15°17.5’N, 50°43.0’W | [Suriname] 6°06.0’N, 55°12.0’W | Paramaribo 5°58.0’N, 55°11.0’W | 1638
|  | Trinidad SE 10°00.0’N, 60°54.0’W Trinidad S 9°54.0’N, 61°20.0’W Trinidad SW 10°02.5’N, 61°57.0’W Paria S 10°15.0’N, 62°0.0’W | [Demerara] 6°58.0’N, 52°34.0’W | Georgetown 6°50.7’N, 58°09.7’W | 1833
|  | Trinidad W 10°31.0’N, 61°50.0’W | Port of Spain W 10°37.5’N, 61°35.0’W | Port of Spain 10°39.0’N, 61°31.0’W | 2012
|  |  | Tobago S 11°10.0’N, 60°44.0’W | Scarborough 11°11.0’N, 60°44.0’W | 1919
Route AT21B |  |  |  |  |
Fernando de Noronha |  | Noronha NW | Tobago S | Scarborough | 1919
|  | Barbados SE 13°02.0’N, 59°31.0’W | Barbados SW 13°04.5’N, 59°37.0’W | Bridgetown 13°05.5’N, 59°37.2’W | 1917
|  | Antigua SE 16°59.5’N, 61°44.0’W | Antigua S 16°59.7’N, 61°46.0’W | English Harbour 17°00.2’N, 61°45.8’W | 2213

Northbound passages from ports in Southern Brazil are hampered by NE winds and the SW-setting current, which occur between October and February. Passages during this time from ports south of Recife are best avoided. If the passage cannot be undertaken at a better time, the only solution is to stand well offshore until the SE trades are found and then make northing with their help. Boats coming from ports south of Rio de Janeiro will find better conditions between March and September when the prevailing winds are from the SE. Fernando de Noronha has been chosen as a hypothetical starting point for the routes outlined above because of the strategic location of this small group of islands, which makes them such a convenient place to depart from on an offshore passage. However, a coastal port may be preferred as a departure point by those planning to sail in stages along an inshore route.

There are two very different alternatives for the continuation of the voyage to the Eastern Caribbean once the bulge of Brazil has been left behind and the course turns NW: the mostly inshore route AT21A and the offshore route AT21B. From ports north of Recife, this passage can be made at any time of the year, although arriving in the Lesser Antilles during the hurricane season should be avoided. Winds along the north coast of Brazil are always favourable and the current sets strongly to the northwest. The Guyana Current runs between 70 and 100 miles off the Brazilian coast and will give a boost of at least 1 knot to boats heading NW from the Amazon Delta. Winds are E or NE and become steadier as one moves north. The waters along this coast of Brazil are often very muddy from the Amazon, and as depths are shallow, a good distance offshore must be kept as the colour of water gives no indication of its depth. The extent of the doldrums varies with the time of year, being wider during the northern summer. An area of variable winds, calms and squalls normally extends from the equator in longitude 30ºW to about latitude 3ºN–5ºN in longitude 38ºW. Weather conditions along the coasts of Guyana and Trinidad are described in route AT15. Because of the complexity of this route, the waypoints given are only for planning purposes.

Northbound boats seldom sail nonstop all the way to the Caribbean and there are several interesting places worth visiting en route in the three Guyanas, French (Guyane), Dutch (Suriname) and British (Guyana). Entry formalities in Guyane are completed at Degrad des Cannes. Formalities can also be completed at Kourou. To enter the river on which Kourou is located, landfall should be made at the first leading buoy. Its GPS position has been reported as 5º12.9’N, 52º36.4’W. Interesting places to visit nearby are the Iles du Salut and the old French penal colony. The recommended anchorage is located at 5º17’N, 52º35’W. The port of entry for Suriname is Paramaribo, approximately 13 miles up the Suriname River, where boats clear in at the new harbour Nieu Haffen. The least visited of the three countries is Guyana itself, where the only official port of entry is its capital Georgetown. One should attempt to arrive during working hours (0700– 1500) and contact Lighthouse Service on channel 16. Visiting boats may tie up at the customs dock, near the clock tower, to complete formalities.

Boats bound for Trinidad will have to negotiate the Serpent’s Mouth, the narrows separating the island from the mainland, to reach one of the ports of entry, either Chaguaramas in Trinidad or Scarborough in Tobago. Trinidad Coast Guard should be contacted on channel 16 as soon as territorial waters are entered. Those who do not intend to stop in Trinidad itself will find a more convenient port of entry at Scarborough, the capital of Tobago.

Route AT21 is both faster and easier to navigate, and should be sailed by those bound for destinations located further north along the Caribbean island chain.

• AT22 Brazil to Azores

BEST TIME: | March to June |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, US 12 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Islands. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Fernando de Noronha 3°49.9’S, 32 °24.3’W | Noronha NW 3°49.0’S, 32°24.3’W | Noronha N 3°47.0’S, 32°23.0’W | Maria S 36°55.0’N, 25°8.0’W | Vila do Porto 36°56.3’N, 25°8.9’W | 2525
|  | Maria W | Miguel SW | Ponta Delgada | 2581
|  | 36°57.7’N, 25°12.5’W | 37°43.5’N, 25°41.0’W | 37°44.2’N, 25°39.0’W |
|  | Pico SW 38°27.0’N, 28°34.0’W | Faial SE 38°30.5’N, 28°37.0’W | Horta 38°32.1’N, 28°37.0’W | 2731

Fernando de Noronha is a good departure point due to its convenient offshore location. Northbound passages from Brazilian ports south of Cape Frio should avoid the period from October to February, when NE winds prevail along the coast. During this time, the normal practice is to take a long tack offshore until well inside the SE trades. This will then make it possible to weather Cape São Roque, at the eastern extremity of Brazil. After sufficient easting has been made, the course can be altered to northward so that the equator is crossed between longitudes 25ºW and 27ºW. From April to September northbound passages are much easier and the equator should be crossed as far east as possible so as to enter the NE trades at the most favourable slant. A route that passes close to the Cape Verdes, or is even interrupted there, is essential as it increases the chances of reaching the Azores on one tack. Official ports of entry in the Cape Verdes are Praia, Sal and Mindelo. See also route AT23.

Two different tactics should be applied if the Azores are only an intermediate stop on a longer voyage to either Northern Europe or the Mediterranean. Depending on the winds encountered in the vicinity of the Azores, the recommended practice for the former is to stay on the tack that gives most northing as westerly winds will be found in higher latitudes and the course can then be altered to NE. For vessels bound for the Mediterranean, the route north of the equator should stay as far east as the NE trade winds will allow. If too much leeway is made to the west and the Azores cannot be avoided, route AN134 gives details for the continuation of the voyage to the Mediterranean (here).

• AT23 Brazil to Cape Verde and Canary Islands

BEST TIME: | January to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, 4022, US 12, 22 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Islands. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AT23A |  |  |  |  |
Salvador 12°58.0’S, 38°32.0’W | Salvador S 13°00.8’S, 38°32.5’W | Salvador E 13°02.0’S, 38°27.0’W |  |  |
Fernando de Noronha | Noronha NW | Noronha N | Praia S | Praia | 1927/1242
3°49.9’S, 32°24.3’W | 3°49.0’S, 32°24.3’W | 3°47.0’S, 32°23.0’W Praia SE 14°54.0’N, 23°29.0’W Santiago NE 15°28.0’N, 23°30.5’W | 14°53.0’N, 23°30.5’W | 14°54.2’N, 23°30.5’W |
|  | Sal NW | Hierro E | Estaca | 2769/2084
|  | 16°59.0’N, 23°17.5’W | 27°43.0’N, 17°55’W | 27°47.0’N, 17°54.0’W |
|  |  | Gomera E 28°04.5’N, 17°05.0’W | San Sebastian 28°05.0’N, 17°06.5’W | 2806/2122
|  |  | Canaria SE 27°48.0’N, 15°21.0’W | Las Palmas 28°07.3’N, 15°24.0’W | 2863/2179
Route AT23B |  |  |  |  |
Salvador Fernando de Noronha | Salvador S Noronha NW | Salvador E Noronha N |  |  |
|  | Vicente NW | Vicente W | Mindelo | 2005/1320
|  | 16°54.5’N, 25°00.5’W | 16°53.0’N, 25°05.0’W | 16°53.2’N, 25°00.1’W |
|  | Verde NE | Hierro E | Estaca | 2769/2084
|  | 17°08.0’N, 24°55.0’W | Gomera E | San Sebastian | 2806/2122
|  |  | Canaria SE | Las Palmas | 2863/2179

Direct passages from any ports in NE Brazil, and that includes Fernando de Noronha, will encounter contrary winds north of the equator and for this reason an attempt should be made to cross the Line as far east as possible. The alternative is to plan this passage to coincide with the SW monsoon when relatively more favourable conditions may prevail. The SW monsoon blows on the African side of the Atlantic between the equator and the Cape Verde Islands from June to September. During these months, easting can be made with the help of the SW winds south of latitude 10ºN. Otherwise the easting will have to be made with the help of the engine before the NE trade winds are met in the vicinity of 5ºN.

As the Cape Verde Islands are very close to the route to the Canaries, the two routes above include a stop at either the southern or northern extreme of the archipelago. Landfall on route AT23A will be made off the south coast of Santiago Island in the approaches to the capital Praia. Passages on route AT23B will pass west of the islands to make landfall SW of São Vicente Island and the port of Mindelo. Mindelo marina has a limited range of facilities whereas at Praia there are hardly any facilities for visiting yachts, except provisions and fuel. Because of the prevailing NE winds, both between the two island groups and in the area of the Canaries, landfall will probably be made in one of the western islands, such as El Hierro or La Gomera. There is a marina in each of their main ports, Puerto de la Estaca in the former and San Sebastian in the latter.

• AT24 Brazil to West Africa

BEST TIME: | July to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, 4022, US 12, 22 |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to West Africa |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Salvador 12°58.0’S, 38°32.0’W | Salvador S 13°00.8’S, 38°32.5’W | Salvador E 13°02.0’S, 38°27.0’W |  |  |
Fernando de Noronha | Noronha NW | Noronha N | Gambia | Banjul | 2097/1413
3°49.9’S, 32°24.3’W | 3°49.0’S, 32°24.3’W | 3°47.0’S, 32°23.0’W | 13°35.0’N, 16°45.0’W | 13°28.0’N, 16°34.0’W |
|  | Senegal W 14°30.0’N, 17°43.0’W | Dakar S 14°38.0’N, 17°26.0’W | Dakar 14°40.0’N, 17°24.6’W | 2109/1425

Similar directions apply as for AT23 and planning this passage to coincide with the SW monsoon is even more important. The capital and main port of the Gambia is Banjul, where entry formalities must be completed. The time of arrival at the entrance of the River Gambia should be planned to coincide with a rising tide. As the harbour entrance is encumbered by shoals, entering the harbour at night should be avoided. The anchorage used by visiting yachts is in position 13º26.5’N, 16º34.5’W. Visiting yachts should contact the port captain and may be instructed to go to the government dock for clearance. Permission to take the boat up the River Gambia, which is navigable for about 160 miles, can be obtained from the port authority.

Boats bound for Dakar should approach the port with caution on account of the heavy traffic. Arriving boats must contact the port authority before entering the harbour and will normally be directed to Hann Bay. The local yacht club (Cercle de Voile Dakar) is located nearby and will help with entry formalities.

A popular river with visiting yachts is the Casamance, which belongs to Senegal and lies south of the Gambian enclave. The main town on the Casamance is Ziguinchor, located some 50 miles upriver. Also navigable is the river Saloum, with many attractions in its lower reaches. French charts for these West African countries are reported to be better than the British or American charts.

Just south of Senegal lies the former Portuguese colony of Guinea-Bissau. Its 150 miles of coastline is much indented by numerous estuaries and river mouths. The largest estuary is that of the Geba River on the north bank of which lies the capital Bissau. The most interesting cruising area is the offlying Bijagós Archipelago, a group of sparsely populated islands rich in wildlife. Navigation requires great care because of strong currents and shallow waters. The safety situation should be ascertained before visiting any of these areas.

• AT25 South Africa and St Helena to Eastern Caribbean

BEST TIME: | January to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, 4022, US 12, 22 |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A4a Voyages via St Helena |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to the Windward Islands, Sailors Guide to the Leeward Islands, Cruising Guide to Trinidad & Tobago, Barbados and Guyana.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AT25A |  |  |  |  |
Cape Town | Cape NW | Barbados SE | Barbados SW | Bridgetown | 4490
33°53.0’S, 18°26.0’E | 33°46.0’S, 18°12.0’E | 13°02.0’N, 59°31.0’W | 13°04.5’N, 59°37.0’W | 13°05.5’N, 59°37.2’W |
|  | Lucia NW 14°07.5’N, 60°57.5’W | Rodney NW 14°05.6’N, 60°58.7’W | Rodney Bay 14°05.7’N, 60°57.9’W | 4591
|  |  | Martinique SE 14°22.0’N, 60°51.0’W | Le Marin 14°25.3’N, 60°54.5’W | 4619
|  | Antigua SE 16°59.5’N, 61°44.0’W | Antigua S 16°59.7’N, 61°46.0’W | English Harbour 17°00.2’N, 61°45.8’W | 4790
Route AT25B |  |  |  |  |
Cape Town | Cape NW | Rio SW 23°03.0’S, 43°16.0’W Rio NE 23°01.0’S, 41°49.0’W São Tomé 22°01.5’S, 40°36.0’W Abrolhos 17°42.0’S, 37°59.0’W | Rio S 22°58.0’S, 43°08.1’W | Rio de Janeiro 22°56.0’S, 43°08.5’W | 3317
|  | Salvador SW 13°00.5’S, 38°34.4’W |  | Salvador 12°58.0’S, 38°32.0’W | 3368
|  | Salvador E 13°00.0’S, 38°18.0’W | Noronha W 3°52.6’S, 32°29.6’W | Fernando de Noronha 3°49.9’S, 32°24.3’W | 3382
|  | Noronha NW |  |  |
|  | 3°49.0’S, 32°24.3’W Barbados SE | Barbados SW | Bridgetown | 5290
|  | Lucia NW | Rodney NW | Rodney Bay | 5401
|  |  | Martinique SE | Le Marin | 5429
|  | Antigua SE | Antigua S | English Harbour | 5586
Route AT25C |  |  |  |  |
Cape Town | Cape NW | Helena W | Helena NW | Jamestown | 1707
|  | 15°59.5’S, 5°49.0’W | 15°54.0’S, 5°43.5’W | 15°55.2’S, 5°43.3’W |
|  | Helena NW | Tobago S | Scarborough | 5314
|  |  | 11°10.0’N, 60°44.0’W | 11°11.0’N, 60°44.0’W |
|  | Barbados SE | Barbados SW | Bridgetown | 5371
|  | Antigua SE | Antigua S | English Harbour | 5672

There are three main alternative routes for boats bound from Cape Town to the Eastern Caribbean: a direct offshore route (AT25A), a southern route via Brazil (AR25B) and a northern route via St Helena (AT25C). This latter route can be extended further by including some Namibian ports in the initial stages of the voyage (see AS11), and, rather than continuing directly from St Helena to the Caribbean, swinging west for a detour to Brazil and possibly the three Guyanas (AT21). Route AT25C benefits from the most favourable sailing conditions virtually along the entire route, and also includes an interesting stop at St Helena and possibly Ascension, two remote British outposts in the South Atlantic. The most popular route calls at both St Helena and Brazil, and is a combination of routes AS13 and AT11. Arrival in Brazil is usually timed to coincide with Carnival, with Salvador da Bahia being the favourite landfall as Brazil’s ancient capital puts on the most spectacular show after Rio de Janeiro, although Recife also prides itself with a vibrant and colourful street festival. Yet another variation is to sail an offshore route from Cape Town that passes west of St Helena and calls at Fernando de Noronha, from where it continues in a NW direction, crossing the equator in an area where the effect of the doldrums is negligible.

• AT26 St Helena to Cape Verde Islands

BEST TIME: | January to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, 4022, US 12, 22 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Islands |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Jamestown |  | Helena NW |  |  |
15°55.2’S, 5°43.3’W |  | 15°54.0’S, 5°43.5’W |  |  |
|  | [Ascension SW] | Ascension W | Ascension | 704
|  | 7°59.0’S, 14°26.0’W | 7°56.0’S, 14°25.7’W | 7°55.3’S, 14°24.7’W |
|  | Ascension W 7°55.0’S, 14°25.0’W | Praia S 14°53.0’N, 23°30.5’W | Praia 14°54.2’N, 23°30.5’W | 2176
|  | Vincent SW 16°50.0’N, 25°06.0’W | Mindelo SW 16°53.5’N, 25°03.5’W | Mindelo 16°53.2’N, 25°00.1’W | 2340

Northbound passages from St Helena are usually interrupted at its sister island Ascension, which is indeed a convenient stop providing a limited range of provisions and fuel. Whether stopping at Ascension or not, favourable winds can be expected as far as the equator. Depending on the position of the ITCZ, a belt of doldrums of between 60 and 150 miles will have to be crossed before reaching the area of prevailing NE winds, somewhere close to 5°N. From there on, spells of light winds will make it possible to maintain some easting before the NE winds start to strengthen. It is therefore advisable to have a good reserve of fuel for this stretch. Praia, the capital of the Cape Verde Islands, is a convenient stop to complete formalities. As facilities for visiting yachts in Praia are very basic it may be advisable to continue to Mindelo, on the island of Saint Vincent, whose marina would be a better place to prepare for the continuation of the voyage.

• AT27 St Helena to West Africa

BEST TIME: | July to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, 4022, US 12, 22 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to West Africa |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Jamestown |  | Helena NE | Gambia | Banjul | 2024
3°49.9’S, 32°24.3’W |  | 3°49.0’S, 32°24.3’W | 13°35.0’N, 16°45.0’W | 13°28.0’N, 16°34.0’W |
|  | Senegal W 14°30.0’N, 17°43.0’W | Dakar S 14°38.0’N, 17°26.0’W | Dakar 14°40.0’N, 17°24.6’W | 2084

As outlined in route AT24, passages to any of the West African countries benefit from better sailing conditions if they are timed to coincide with the SW monsoon, which affects the area NE of St Helena between July and late September. At any other times, much of the passage may have to be made under power, as the doldrums cover a wide area just off the coast of Africa. In any case, sufficient easting ought to be made in low latitudes in preparation for the N and NE winds that will be encountered north of 10°N. Details of the suggested landfalls are described in route AT24.

• AT28 South Africa and St Helena to Azores

BEST TIME: | January to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, 4022, US 12, 22 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A13 Voyages from South Africa |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Islands. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Cape Town | Cape NW | Helena W | Helena NW | Jamestown | 1707
33°53.0’S, 18°26.0’E | 33°46.0’S, 18°12.0’E | 15°59.5’S, 5°49.0’W | 15°54.0’S, 5°43.5’W | 15°55.2’S, 5°43.3’W |
|  | Helena NW |  |  |
|  | [Ascension SW 7°59.0’S, 14°26.0’W | Ascension W 7°56.0’S, 14°25.7’W | Ascension 7°55.3’S, 14 °24.7’W | 2411
|  | Ascension W] | Praia S 14°53.0’N, 23°30.5’W | Praia 14°54.2’N, 23°30.5’W | 2884
|  | Praia SE |  |  |
|  | 14°54.0’N, 23°29.0’W Santiago NE 15°28.0’N, 23°30.5’W |  |  |
|  | Sal NW |  |  |
|  | 16°59.0’N, 23°17.5’W |  |  |
|  | [Vicente W |  | Mindelo | 4074
|  | 16°53.0’N, 25°05.0’W |  | 16°53.2’N, 25°00.1’W |
|  | Verde NE] 17°08.0’N, 24°55.0’W | Maria S 36°55.0’N, 25°8.0’W | Vila do Porto 36°56.5’N, 25°09’W | 5197
|  | Maria W | Miguel SW | Ponta Delgada | 5252
|  | 36°57.7’N, 25°12.5’W | 37°43.5’N, 25°41.0’W | 37°44.2’N, 25°39.0’W |
|  | Pico SW 38°27.0’N, 28°34.0’W | Faial SE 38°30.5’N, 28°37.0’W | Horta 38°32.1’N, 28°37.0’W | 5403

The great circle route from Cape Town to the Azores runs close to both St Helena (route AS11) and Ascension (route AS12) and few boats pass those islands without stopping. For this reason, the above route lists the various waypoints and suggested landfalls for those who may prefer to sail this route in easy stages.

As most passages in the South Atlantic are made in the SE trades, steady winds can be expected almost all the way to the equator. From Ascension, the route continues in a NNW direction towards the equator, which is crossed further west during the northern winter and further east in summer. The recommended longitudes are between 26ºW and 28ºW from December to February, and 22ºW to 25ºW between June and September. The latter period coincides with the SW monsoon, when it may be better to cross the equator more to the east to take advantage of the SW winds. This would mean that the NE trades would be met at a better angle north of the Cape Verdes. To be able to do this, sufficient easting must be made while still in the SE trades, before the NE trade winds are met around 5ºN. A route that passes close to the Cape Verdes, or is even interrupted there, is essential as it increases the chances of reaching the Azores on one tack. If a stop in the Cape Verdes is intended, this can be done at either the southern or northern extremity of the archipelago. The capital Praia is located on the island of São Tiago, while Mindelo, on St Vicente Island, has a marina and the best facilities in the archipelago.

Directions for the continuation of the route to the Azores are given in AN61.

• AT29 South Africa and St Helena to Gibraltar

BEST TIME: | January to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4012, 4022, US 12, 22 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A13 Voyages from South Africa |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Atlantic Islands, Atlantic Spain and Portugal, Straits Sailing Handbook. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Cape Town 33°53.0’S, 18°26.0’E | Cape NW 33°46.0’S, 18°12.0’E | Helena W 15°59.5’S, 5°49.0’W | Helena NW 15°54.0’S, 5°43.5’W | Jamestown 15°55.2’S, 5°43.3’W | 1707
|  | Helena NW |  |  |
|  | [Ascension SW] 7°59.0’S, 14°26.0’W | Ascension W 7°56.0’S, 14°25.7’W | Ascension 7°55.3’S, 14°24.7’W | 2411
|  | Ascension W | Praia S 14°53.0’N, 23°30.5’W | Praia 14°54.2’N, 23°30.5’W | 3884
|  | [Vicente NW] 16°54.5’N, 25°00.5’W | Vicente W 16°53.0’N, 25°05.0’W | Mindelo 16°53.2’N, 25°00.1’W | 4074
|  | Verde NE 17°08.0’N, 24°55.0’W | Hierro E 27°43.0’N, 17°55’W | Estaca 27°47.0’N, 17°54.0’W | 4838
|  |  | Gomera E 28°04.5’N, 17°05.0’W | San Sebastian 28°05.0’N, 17°06.5’W | 4874
|  |  | Canaria SE 27°48.0’N, 15°21.0’W | Las Palmas 28°07.3’N, 15°24.0’W | 4937
|  | Isleta |  |  |
|  | 28°09.0’N, 15°23.0’W Espartel 35°48.0’N, 05°58.0’E |  |  |
|  | Ahmiar 35°56.0’N, 5°29.0’W | Gibraltar 36°07.5’N, 5°23.0’W | Marina Bay Marina 36°09’N, 5°21’W | 5636
|  |  |  | Queensway Marina 36°08’N, 5°21’W | 5635

For many years the accepted tactic to sail from the South Atlantic to either Northern Europe or the Mediterranean was to make a long detour via the Lesser Antilles, or a shorter detour via the Azores. A shorter alternative is to head north from St Helena and continue via the Cape Verde and Canary Islands. This route entails some windward work north of the equator but the time and distance gained will more than make up for that effort. Favourable winds can be expected as far as the equator and, depending on the position of the ITCZ, a belt of doldrums of between 60 and 150 miles will have to be crossed before reaching the area of prevailing NE winds, somewhere close to 5°N. From there on, light winds will be the order of the day as far as the Cape Verdes, so one should ensure that sufficient fuel was loaded at St Helena or Ascension. North of the equator, a convenient stop for both fuel and fresh supplies is the port of Praia, capital of the Cape Verdes. As facilities for visiting yachts in Praia are very basic it may be advisable to continue to Mindelo on the island of Saint Vincent. Mindelo Marina would be a better place to prepare for the continuation of the voyage. North of those islands and all the way to the Canaries the prevailing winds are from NE, so it is advisable to keep close to the rhumb line in case of a favourable wind shift. The marinas at San Sebastian, on the island of La Gomera, or La Estaca on El Hierro have been suggested, but Las Palmas on the island of Gran Canaria would make a better landfall, as well as being a good base to prepare for the subsequent leg, as it has the best facilities in the Canaries. The voyage north of the equator is described in more detail in routes AN66 and AN58.

WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE SOUTH ATLANTIC

The southeast trade winds

Because the ITCZ is situated north of the equator throughout the year, it could be said that the South Atlantic Ocean does not have a doldrums zone. The SE trade winds are more constant than their North Atlantic counterpart, the NE trade winds. They form the equatorial side of the air circulation around the South Atlantic anticyclone, which is situated between latitude 25ºS and 32ºS and has a direct bearing on the winds and weather of both the tropical and subtropical South Atlantic. The SE trade winds extend as far as the equator in the southern winter and their northern limit retreats by a few degrees to the south in summer. Their southern limit extends normally to a line joining the Cape of Good Hope to the Brazilian island of Trinidade. Their direction varies from SE or SSE on the eastern side of the ocean to become almost easterly in the western part. The average strength of the SE trade winds is 15 knots, but they diminish in strength towards the equator.

Variables

A zone of light variable winds extends to the south of the SE trade wind belt and is similar to the Horse Latitudes of the North Atlantic. This region of variable winds coincides with the area of the South Atlantic High. The position of the high is influenced by the seasonal movement of the sun, reaching its southern limit in January and its northern limit in July. To the east of the 0º meridian the winds in those latitudes tend to be mostly southerly and can be regarded as an extension of the SE trade winds. The summer winds in the western half of this region are mostly NE.

Westerlies

Winds in the higher latitudes of the South Atlantic are predominantly westerly. This is the region of the Roaring Forties where the continuous passage of depressions from west to east generates winds that are often of gale force. These westerlies are a normal feature of southern waters where they blow unhindered south of the three great capes.

Regional winds

The pampero is a burst of cold west or southwest wind resembling a line squall that gets its name from the lowlands (pampas) of Argentina, Uruguay and Southern Brazil and is usually associated with a passing low or cold front. This wind is most common in winter, between May and August, but it can also occur at other times, especially in the River Plate Estuary.

Tropical storms

Until recently, tropical storms were unknown in the South Atlantic, but Hurricane Catarina, which developed off the coast of Brazil in March 2004, may be an early indication of the current climate change.

Currents

The currents of the South Atlantic Ocean are part of a well-defined anticlockwise circulation. The South Equatorial Current flows in a broad belt from east to west with its axis roughly along latitude 6ºS. The part of this current that is between the equator and latitude 6ºS is regarded as one of the most constant currents in the world. The set is always in a westerly direction, usually between WNW and WSW, the average rate being about 1 knot. Further south, to about latitude 20ºS, there is the weaker South Subtropical Current also setting to the west. The South Equatorial Current extends across the equator to about latitude 4ºN and one branch of it combines with the North Equatorial Current to form a strong current setting towards the Caribbean Sea. The other branch is deflected to the south by the South American landmass and combines with the South Subtropical Current to form the Brazil Current. This current sets strongly south parallel to the coast until it reaches latitude 25ºS, where part of it turns east. The remainder carries on as far as latitude 35ºS, where it also turns east to join the vast body of water that sets eastward and is generated by the Southern Ocean Current. This broad belt of cold water sets eastward in the southern hemisphere to the south of all continents.

On the African side the main ocean circulation of the South Atlantic is completed by the Benguela Current.

South Atlantic currents

This current sets north along the coast of Africa and is a continuation of the Agulhas Current after the latter has passed the Cape of Good Hope. North of latitude 20ºS the Benguela Current moves away from the African coast, fanning out into the Subtropical and South Equatorial Currents. Near the African coast, however, the set of the current is always northerly and from February to April it reaches as far as the equator.

ROUTES IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC

AS10 | • | Routes from South Africa
AS20 | • | Routes from South America
AS30 | • | Routes in the Southern Ocean

Compared to the North Atlantic, the South Atlantic is intersected by only a handful of offshore routes and the number of cruising boats sailing them is relatively small. The political uncertainty and safety concerns in the Western Indian Ocean and the Red Sea has forced most sailors on a world voyage to abandon that route to the Mediterranean and sail instead around the Cape of Good Hope. The route from Cape Town to St Helena is nowadays sailed by more yachts than ever before. Brazil has also seen an increase in the number of visitors, particularly the NE coast, as more boats make a detour on their way from Europe to the Caribbean. Otherwise, much of South America is still undiscovered by cruising boats, although every year an increasing number of yachts brave the elements and sail to Patagonia to explore that area or continue west into the Pacific. There is also a movement in the opposite direction with a number of yachts reaching the Atlantic from Southern Chile.

The traditional circumnavigating route around the Cape of Good Hope is used mainly by racing boats taking part in round-the-world races. On their return voyage, these boats pass again through the South Atlantic after having weathered Cape Horn. Even if few cruising boats sail those offshore routes in the Southern Ocean, more of them are now venturing south to Tierra del Fuego or even Antarctica.

The weather in the South Atlantic is dictated by the powerful South Atlantic High and as its position has a direct bearing on the winds encountered on most of these routes, an attempt should be made to obtain its approximate location before leaving on an offshore passage.

Windgrams showing a summary of wind conditions along some popular cruising routes

Cape Town to Rio de Janeiro, January
Rio de Janeiro to Fernando de Noronha, February
St Helena to Cape Verde Islands, February
South Georgia to Cape Town, February

AS10 • Routes from South Africa

• | AS11 | Northbound from Cape Town | 242
• | AS12 | St Helena to Ascension | 243
• | AS13 | St Helena to Brazil | 243
• | AS14 | Cape Town to Brazil | 244
• | AS15 | Westbound from Cape Town | 245
• | AS16 | Cape Town to Falkland Islands and South Georgia | 246

The routes from South Africa into the South Atlantic are used mainly by sailors on a world voyage on their way to Europe or North America. South African yachts, themselves leaving on a longer cruise, also join these routes.

With the hot mass of Africa to the north and the cold Antarctic ice cap to the south, the high coastline presents an obstacle to opposing air currents from those regions. The main feature of weather conditions in this area is the high proportion of gale force winds, quickly raising high and dangerous seas. In the Cape area often winds build up to gale force in the day and fall at night, but this is not a rule, nor can it be relied on. The strong currents in this area are part of the reason why seas build up so high and so rapidly, especially when gale force winds are opposing the current. A typical sequence of weather is for a NE gale to blow hard, followed by a lull, and then SW winds to set in with gale force. In summer, depressions come up from the south bringing ice-cold winds similar to the southerly busters experienced in SE Australia.

AS10 Routes from South Africa

• AS11 Northbound from Cape Town

BEST TIME: | November to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4022, US 22 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A4a Voyages via St Helena, A4b Voyages to Southern Brazil |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AS11A |  |  |  |  |
Cape Town 33°53.0’S, 18°26.0’E | Cape NW 33°46.0’S, 18°12.0’E | Helena W 15°59.5’S, 5°49.0’W | Helena NW 15°54.0’S, 5°43.5’W | Jamestown 15°55.2’S, 5°43.3’W | 1707
Route AS11B |  |  |  |  |
Cape Town | Cape NW | Columbine 32°50.0’S, 17°37.4’E |  |  |
|  | Luderitz SW 26°44.8’S, 15°01.6’E Luderitz NW 26˚37.0’S, 15˚04.5’E Conception 24°02.0’S, 14°10.6’E | Luderitz SW | Luderitz 26°37.0’S, 15°07.5’E | 477
|  | Walvis SW 22 ˚57.5’S, 14˚18.6’E Walvis N | Walvis N 22˚52.0’S, 14 ˚27.0’E | Walvis Bay 22 ˚54.5’S, 14 ˚28.0’E | 720
|  | Helena E 15°55.0’S, 5°37.7’W | Helena NE 15°53.5’S, 5°40.5’W | Jamestown | 1941

Because of the consistency of the SE trade winds and the absence of tropical storms in the South Atlantic, this passage can be made throughout the year. However, most sailors plan on leaving the Cape area before the onset of the winter gales and therefore the best time for this passage is the summer months, from November to April. Such a timing fits most forward plans, whether to arrive in Brazil for Carnival, the Caribbean for the winter cruising season, or the USA and Europe in late spring or early summer.

It is generally advisable to wait in Cape Town for a favourable forecast, or at least until any existing lows have passed over. Strong SW winds sometimes give a welcome boost to the start of this passage, although they occasionally reach gale force. If the African coast is followed northward, the strong Benguela Current will be in your favour, although fog is often associated with this area and is caused by the warm wind blowing over the cold waters of the current. The suggestion to follow the African coast, in order to take advantage of the favourable current and possible land breezes, runs contrary to the recommendation made in the past when the masters of sailing ships leaving Cape Town were urged to make a good offing to the NW to avoid being caught on a lee shore by W or NW squalls. This advice is still valid and during unsettled weather it is indeed better to keep a safe distance off the coast. Violent onshore squalls have been recorded in both seasons, so a prudent distance should be kept off the coast to be able to take an offshore tack should a squall strike unexpectedly.

During summer, the southern limit of the SE trades reaches as far as Cape Town, but because of the peculiar nature of the weather in this area, true trade wind conditions are usually met only north of latitude 25ºS. Violent gales of short duration are not uncommon even during January and February, which are the best months for this passage, although such gales occur mainly south of 30ºS. As the location of the South Atlantic High may have a bearing on the winds to be experienced on this route, its location should be obtained before leaving Cape Town. The best winds would then be experienced on the east side of the rhumb line. Usually, however, the SE winds are quite consistent and a direct course can be sailed all the way to St Helena.

Those who decide to follow the African coast for a while will find reasonable facilities at the yacht clubs in the two Namibian ports, Luderitz and Walvis Bay, both used extensively by fishing boats.

Having left Table Bay, boats bound directly for St Helena should sail the great circle route to St Helena’s West Point. St. Helena Radio should be called on channel 16 from 10 to 20 nautical miles from James Bay to announce your impending arrival and ETA. The west coast of the island is followed to the main harbour called the Anchorage, which gives reasonable shelter from the prevailing SE winds. The main settlement is Jamestown, where formalities are completed. Port Control should be contacted on channel 16 for mooring instructions. Mooring buoys are available for visiting yachts on the western side of the anchorage. There is a ferry service to the shore, for which a fee is charged.

There are various sea mounts on this route and they should be approached with caution as occasionally large freak waves have been reported in their vicinity. Unnaturally high breaking waves have also been reported in the area of the Valdivia Bank and it is presumed that these are caused when a strong wind is blowing in the same direction as the Benguela Current.

• AS12 St Helena to Ascension

BEST TIME: | All year |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4022, US 22 |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Jamestown 15°55.2’S, 5°43.3’W | Helena NW 15°54.0’S, 5°43.5’W | Ascension SW 7°59.0’S, 14°26.0’W | Ascension W 7°56.0’S, 14°25.7’W | Ascension 7°55.3’S, 14°24.7’W | 704

As a continuation of a northbound passage from South Africa, the subsequent leg from St Helena to Ascension benefits from favourable winds throughout the year. The direction of the wind is predominantly SE, although its strength varies and can sometimes be light, especially in the summer months from January to March.

Once a bustling military base, this mid-Atlantic outpost is a welcome stop for those on long Atlantic voyages. The SE trades have often spent some of their force by the time they reach Ascension. Heavy rollers and swell from the NW can be experienced when the NE trade winds are at their height in the North Atlantic, which can make landing difficult. Formalities are completed in Georgetown, a small settlement with a few basic facilities. Yachts are required to anchor in the area north of Pierhead, in Clarence Bay. Night arrivals should be avoided because of the many obstructions in the port area.

• AS13 St Helena to Brazil

BEST TIME: | All year |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4022, US 22 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising the Coast of Brazil. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Jamestown | Helena NW | Rio NE |  |  |
15°55.2’S, 5°43.3’W | 15°54.0’S, 5°43.5’W | 23°1.0’S, 41°49.0’W |  |  |
|  | Rio SE 23°02.0’S, 43°03.5’W | Rio S 22°58.0’S, 43°08.1’W | Rio de Janeiro 22°56.0’S, 43°08.5’W | 2162
|  | Salvador E 13˚00.0’S, 38 ˚18.0’W | Salvador S 13°00.8’S, 38°32.5’W | Salvador 12 ˚58.0’S, 38 ˚32.0’W | 1920
|  | Noronha NE 3°47.5’S, 32°22.0’W | Noronha NW 3°49.0’S, 32°24.3’W | Fernando de Noronha 3°49.9’S, 32 °24.3’W | 1739
|  |  | Fortaleza E 3°40.0’S, 38°24.3’W | Fortaleza 3°41.8’S, 38°29.0’W | 2104

Rather than take the direct route from St Helena to the Eastern Caribbean, many boats make a detour to Brazil before rejoining their NW route. A popular landfall on Brazil’s NE coast is Salvador, commonly referred to as Bahia, whose annual carnival is a keen rival of the more famous carnival of Rio. Landfall is made off Cape Santo Antonio in the approaches to the perfectly sheltered natural harbour. With several yacht clubs and a number of international sailing events stopping there, Salvador now has some of the best yachting facilities in Northern Brazil, including a centrally located marina. Those who prefer to start their Brazilian cruise further south can head directly for Rio de Janeiro. There are several anchorages and marinas in Rio de Janeiro, but the most conveniently situated is Marina da Gloria close to Rio’s smaller airport. The marina office welcomes visiting sailors and will advise on how to complete entry formalities.

Boats not intending to stop in mainland Brazil often use the island of Fernando de Noronha, off Cape São Roque, as a convenient stop on the way to the Caribbean. There is an anchorage off the main settlement and entry formalities are completed ashore. The small archipelago is a nature reserve and there are certain restrictions in place.

The weather on this route is mostly pleasant, with consistent E and SE winds that very rarely reach gale force. Between March and September the winds along the Brazilian coast are predominantly SE and the current sets NE. Between October and February the prevailing winds are NE and the current sets SW, a combination making northbound passages very difficult. During this period it is recommended to either keep well offshore and make landfall at one of the ports on the more easily accessible north coast, such as Fortaleza. Route AT21 gives details of the rest of the route to the Eastern Caribbean.

• AS14 Cape Town to Brazil

BEST TIME: | December to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4022, US 22 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A22 Voyages from South Africa |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising the Coast of Brazil. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Cape Town | Cape NW | Rio SW | Rio S | Rio de Janeiro | 3317
33°53.0’S, 18°26.0’E | 33°46.0’S, 18°12.0’E | 23°03.0’S, 43°16.0’W | 22 ˚58.0’S, 43˚08.1’W | 22°56.0’S, 43°08.5’W |
|  | Salvador SW | Salvador S | Salvador | 3368
|  | 13 ˚00.5’S, 38 ˚34.4’W | 13°00.8’S, 38°32.5’W | 12 ˚58.0’S, 38 ˚32.0’W |
|  | Noronha W 3 ˚52.6’S, 32 ˚29.6’W | Noronha NW 3˚49.0’S, 32 ˚24.3’W | Fernando de Noronha 3°49.9’S, 32 °24.3’W | 3382

The great circle route to Rio de Janeiro and ports south of Cape Frio is outside the southern limit of the SE trade winds, so it is advisable to make this passage between latitudes 20ºS and 23ºS where the chances of having favourable winds is greater. The SE trade winds have their southern limit along a diagonal line that runs from Trinidade Island to the Cape of Good Hope. A more direct route from Cape Town can be steered to ports lying north of Cape Frio. As the ports on the Brazilian coast between Cape São Roque and Cape Frio are under the influence of steady NE winds between October and February and the current along the coast sets SW, a subsequent passage from Rio de Janeiro northward should be planned for later in the season when there is a higher proportion of easterly winds north of Rio de Janeiro.

There are several marinas in Rio de Janeiro, with the most convenient being Marina da Gloria close to Rio’s smaller airport. Visiting sailors are welcome and the marina office will give advice on how to complete entry formalities.

Those who wish to proceed directly to the Eastern Caribbean along a more northerly route may decide to stop at Fernando de Noronha, a group of islands about 200 miles off the mainland and relatively close to the direct route. This is an official port of entry. The small archipelago is a nature reserve and there are certain restrictions in place, visiting boats only being allowed to use the anchorage by the main settlement.

• AS15 Westbound from Cape Town

BEST TIME: | December to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4020, 4022, US 20, 22 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Argentina. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Cape Town | Cape W | Mar del Plata E |  | Mar del Plata | 3693
33°53.0’S, 18°26.0’E | 33°52.0’S, 18°16.0’E | 38°02.0’S, 57°30.3’W |  | 38°02.3’S, 57°31.2’W |
|  | Tristan NE |  | Tristan da Cunha | 1513
|  | 36°59.0’S, 12°12.5’W Tristan NW 36°59.0’S, 12°25.0’W |  | 37°02.0’S, 12°18.0’W |
|  | Plata E 35°04.0’S, 54°53.0’W | Punta S 34°58.7’S, 54°58.0’W | Punta del Este 34°57.5’S, 54°57.2’W | 3635
|  | Plata NW 34°57.0’S, 55°56.0’W | Montevideo S 34°57.0’S, 56°13.5’W | Montevideo 34°55.0’S, 56°13.5’W | 3695
|  | Plata C 35°05.0’S, 56°30.0’W | Plata W 34°40.5’S, 57°56.0’W | Buenos Aires 34°35.7’S, 58°21.0’W | 3803

All of these destinations are to windward for most of the year, making passages on any of these routes a challenging affair. However, during the summer months the percentage of S winds is higher than at other times and, according to the latest pilot charts, there is a reasonable proportion of winds blowing from a favourable direction. An interesting stop lying almost halfway across the route from Cape Town to Mar del Plata is the island of Tristan da Cunha. Visiting boats, of which about half a dozen call every year, are always welcome. There is a precarious anchorage near Edinburgh, the main settlement, and if a change in weather is expected, you should be prepared to leave at short notice. Infinitely better facilities will be found in Mar del Plata, Argentina’s yachting centre and summer holiday resort. The naval authorities (Prefectura Naval) require notice of ETA on channel 16 prior to arrival. Boats should proceed to the yacht basin, where Yacht Club Argentino and Club Nautico are located. Repair and service facilities are very good.

There are similarly good facilities in the ports bordering the shores of the Plate Estuary. The nearest to the ocean is the Uruguayan resort of Punta del Este. Arriving yachts should contact Control Maritimo on VHF radio and proceed to the municipal marina. Entry formalities are usually completed at the airport. Further west, the capital of Uruguay, Montevideo, has no yachting facilities as such and the best place to make for is Puerto del Buceo, about 9 miles east of the capital. Puerto Buceo Control should be contacted on arrival for instructions as to where to dock as there are two local marinas. Argentina’s capital Buenos Aires is located on the opposite shore, where Port Control should be contacted on channel 16 for instructions on where to proceed for clearance. Once that is completed, visiting yachts are welcome at the Yacht Club Argentino.

• AS16 Cape Town to Falkland Islands and South Georgia

BEST TIME: | December to January |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4022, 4024, US 22, | 200 |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Falkland Islands Shores, | Southern Ocean Cruising, South Shetland Islands and Antarctic. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Cape Town | Cape W | Stanley NE |  | Port Stanley | 4059
33°53.0’S, 18°26.0’E | 33°52.0’S, 18°16.0’E | 51 ˚40.0’S, 57˚42.5’W |  | 51˚40.8’S, 57 ˚49.7’W |
|  | Georgia NE |  | Grytviken | 2657
|  | 54 ˚07.0’S, 36˚18.5’W |  | 54 ˚12.5’S, 36 ˚27.0’W |

Passages to either of these destinations can be a tough exercise at most times of the year and should only be attempted by boats that go reasonably well to windward. In summer the prevailing W winds occasionally give way to NW winds, when the voyage to South Georgia may turn out to be a fast close-hauled passage, although the one to the Falklands will still be hard on the wind. For this reason some sailors prefer to reach the Falklands by making a detour to the South American mainland and continuing south with help from those same westerly winds.

This is a voyage strictly for the summer months and those who are sailing to South Georgia should indeed attempt to be there by early summer as that is the breeding season and the island is crowded with wildlife. The main settlement is located in King Edward Cove, which has a sheltered anchorage. Formalities are completed at the harbour master’s office. Facilities are limited and therefore visiting yachts are expected to be self-sufficient.

Much better facilities will be found at Port Stanley where a number of charter yachts operating in Antarctic waters have made their base. Except in emergencies, immigration and the port authority expect to be notified of a vessel’s arrival at least 24 hours in advance. Any vessel entering the port must report on channels 10 or 16 before crossing the reporting line, which joins Volunteer Point (51°31.0’S, 57°44.0’W) and Cape Pembroke (51°41.0’S, 57°43.0). Arriving boats can dock at a floating pontoon or pick up a free mooring buoy. The Falkland Islands Company should be contacted for delivery of fuel as well as any repairs as they have a number of skilled workers capable of dealing with most jobs. The company has a 60-ton slip and 40-ton crane.

AS20 • Routes from South America

• | AS21 | South America to South Africa | 248
• | AS22 | South America to Falkland Islands | 249
• | AS23 | Southbound from Brazil | 250
• | AS24 | Southbound from Argentina | 251
• | AS25 | Northbound from Patagonia and Falkland Islands | 252
• | AS26 | Northbound from Argentina | 254

The relatively small number of routes in the South Atlantic is not due to a paucity of destinations as there are many interesting places to visit in South America. Nor is the weather an impediment as, particularly in the tropics, weather conditions can be very pleasant throughout the year with the added advantage that the area is not affected by tropical storms. The exceptions are hurricane Catarina, that affected Southern Brazil in March 2004, and hurricane Anita in March 2010. In the past, most cruising boats reached South America as part of a longer voyage that, in most cases, had taken them through the Indian Ocean and South Africa or, less commonly, around Cape Horn. As South America is becoming a better-known cruising destination, boats from Europe arrive either from the Canaries and Cape Verdes direct or by way of a detour to West Africa. Not many boats sail further south than Rio de Janeiro before turning around and heading for the Caribbean. The southern half of South America is still to be discovered by cruising boats in any numbers and, although every year more boats sail to Patagonia, the Falklands, Cape Horn and even Antarctica, they are still the exception. Whereas passages in the northern half of the South Atlantic can be undertaken at any time, the weather in the southern part is not conducive to cruising during the winter months from April to November.

AS20 Routes from South America

In the River Plate Estuary in the summer months from September through to March, the prevailing wind is from an E or NE direction. For the rest of the year, W to SW winds prevail at the mouth of the estuary, becoming more northerly further west. The weather is usually fine when the wind is settled in the north. A distinctive feature of the River Plate Estuary is that steady northerly winds, which are accompanied by hot air, often herald a pampero. These violent SW storms are usually short-lived, and rarely last more than 10 hours. They are preceded by a long, dark, horizontal rolling cloud. They are more frequent between September and December. Pamperos are accompanied by high barometric pressure and cold air, resulting in reduced water levels in the river. Although centred on the River Plate area, the pamperos affect the surrounding coastal area between latitudes 31º and 40ºS and as far out to sea as 48ºW.

The real threat in this area is the SE wind called sudestada, which blows at 40 to 50 knots and can last between three and seven days. Such winds are accompanied by high tides and strong currents along Uruguay’s coast. The sudestada occurs mostly between June and October.

The coast of Brazil south of Rio de Janeiro has very variable winds with certain seasonal variations. From October through to April, winds from a NE direction predominate, which when strong are usually followed by calms and a SW wind. In April, NW and SW winds blow in equal proportion to the NE winds, which after a few SE to SW gales give way to SW winds in May. These SW winds prevail until October. Occasionally, from July to September, westerly winds bring bad weather. NW squalls lasting several hours occur at this time near Rio de Janeiro.

Above Rio de Janeiro the east coast of Brazil enjoys NE winds, fine weather and a clear sky for most of the year, the winds being strongest close to the coast from December to February. Off Capes Frio and São Tomé the combination of fresh NE winds and strong currents can create rough seas. The NE winds are not felt so strongly west of Cape Frio as the mountains check their force. Higher up the coast the SE trade wind is felt from March to August as far south as Salvador, although the rest of the year it reaches only as far as Recife. Both the SE and NE winds sometimes give way to squally SW weather lasting a few days and bringing clouds and rain. This SW weather occurs particularly from April to August when the winds are usually lighter and more variable. The barometer usually falls 24 hours before the onset of SW winds. Although there are land and sea breezes all along the coast, the land breeze is normally short-lived and weak unless the sea breeze is strong.

On the north coast of Brazil towards the Amazon, the Intertropical Convergence Zone influences the weather by bringing the SE trade wind, accompanied by fine weather, from August to October, and the NE trade wind from November to March. This latter period is the wet season. Both these winds have a more easterly component tending to be ESE and ENE. Between April and the onset of the SE trades in August, the wind first moves into the ESE, then gives way to a couple of months of doldrum weather of calms, squalls and variable winds.

• AS21 South America to South Africa

BEST TIME: | November to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4020, 4022, US 20, 22 |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | South Africa Nautical Almanac. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AS21A |  |  |  |  |
Rio de Janeiro 22°56.0’S, 43°08.5’W | Rio S 22°58.0’S, 43°08.1’W | Rio SW 23°03.0’S, 43°16.0’W |  |  | 3317
Buenos Aires 34°35.7’S, 58°21.0’W | Plata W 34°40.5’S, 57°56.0’W | Plata C 35°05.0’S, 56°30.0’W |  |  | 3803
Punta del Este 34°57.5’S, 54 °57.2’W | Punta S 34°58.7’S, 54°58.0’W | Plata E 35°04.0’S, 54°53.0’W |  |  | 3635
Montevideo | Montevideo S | Plata E | Cape W | Cape Town | 3695
34°55.0’S, 56°13.5’W | 34˚57.0’S, 56˚13.5’W |  | 33°52.0’S, 18°16.0’E | 33°53.0’S, 18°26.0’E |
Route AS21B |  |  |  |  |
Mar del Plata | Mar del Plata E | [Tristan NW |  | Tristan da Cunha | 2183
38°02.3’S, 57°31.2’W | 38°02.0’S, 57°30.3’W | 36°59.0’S, 12°25.0’W |  | 37°02.0’S, 12°18.0’W |
|  | Tristan NE] 36°59.0’S, 12°12.5’W | Cape W | Cape Town | 3700

A direct route to the Cape of Good Hope is very difficult to sail from any of the northern ports in South America on account of the SE trade winds that blow consistently in the tropical South Atlantic throughout the year. Conditions change south of Cape São Roque, below the bulge of South America, where NE winds prevail between October and February. During the same period, a favourable SW current also sets parallel to the coast. Boats leaving from one of the ports in Northern Brazil should take advantage of the winds and current to make the necessary southing before heading offshore.

For boats leaving from one of the ports in Southern Brazil, the most favourable tack should be sailed to reach the area of westerly winds, the northern limit of which depends on the time of year. An area of variable winds will have to be crossed between latitudes 25ºS and 33ºS, its width being similarly dependent on the time of year. At the beginning of summer, N or NE winds may be found around latitude 33ºS, but as the summer progresses the northern limit of the westerlies retracts, and it may be necessary to sail to 37ºS and even 38ºS to find steady westerly winds. Generally, the winds below latitude 35ºS are much more favourable for the passage to Cape Town than those blowing further north and so a more southerly route is recommended. Near Tristan da Cunha the winds are mostly from between N and W in summer becoming more westerly as one moves east.

Passages starting from Rio de Janeiro should sail a course that stays south of the South Atlantic High to reach the area of favourable winds. To increase the chances of finding good winds it may be necessary to dip as far south as 60 miles north of Tristan da Cunha. At that point it may be tempting to make a small detour to call at that rarely visited island (see AS15). Having done so, the temptation should be resisted to join the shortest route for the rest of the voyage to Cape Town as staying on a higher latitude increases the chances of having better winds as one approaches the tip of Africa.

Boats leaving from ports in Uruguay or Argentina benefit from better winds and can sail a rhumb line, which has a better chance of favourable winds than the great circle route. As mentioned above, a stop in Tristan da Cunha may be considered as the island lies very close to the route to Cape Town. As the prevailing summer winds in the Cape Town area are SE and gales from that direction are frequent, the coast should be approached from the SW to avoid being set to leeward by the wind and current setting strongly northward. Cape Town is South Africa’s premier yachting centre and has excellent repair facilities and several marinas. Visiting yachts are always welcome at the Royal Cape Yacht Club, which has its own marina and boatyard and will assist with entry formalities.

• AS22 South America to Falkland Islands

BEST TIME: | November to January |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4020, US 20 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Falkland Islands Shores. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Rio de Janeiro | Rio S | Rio SW |  |  | 1853
22°56.0’S, 43°08.5’W | 22°58.0’S, 43°08.1’W | 23°03.0’S, 43°16.0’W |  |  |
Punta del Este 34°57.5’S, 54°57.2’W | Punta S 34°58.7’S, 54°58.0’W | Plata E 35°04.0’S, 54°53.0’W |  |  | 1011
Mar del Plata 38°02.3’S, 57°31.2’W | Mar del Plata E 38°02.0’S, 57°30.3’W |  |  |  | 818
Puerto Madryn 42°46.0’S, 65°01.0’W | Madryn E 42°54.0’S, 64°08.0’W |  |  |  | 609
Puerto Deseado | Deseado E | Falklands NE | Stanley NE | Port Stanley | 391
47°45.7’S, 65°53.5’W | 47°45.5’S, 65°49.0’W | 51°16.0’S, 57°39.0’W | 51°38.5’S, 57°42.0’W | 51°40.8’S, 57°49.7’W |

The route from Rio de Janeiro southward runs close to the coast, and if not calling at ports in the River Plate Estuary, the direct offshore route is to be preferred, certainly as far south as latitude 35ºS. The winds between Rio de Janeiro and this latitude are mostly NE in summer. South of latitude 35ºS, winds become increasingly westerly and it is advisable to stay well to the west of the direct route to the Falklands to avoid being blown off course by a westerly gale. The weather is generally better inshore than further offshore. Another reason why an inshore route is preferable is to avoid the strong north-setting Falklands Current, which can reach as much as 2 knots. Having reached the River Plate Estuary, the recommended route continues parallel to the Argentinian coast. There are several ports in Argentina where it is possible to stop in an emergency, such as Mar del Plata, Puerto Madryn and Puerto Deseado. Landfall is made NE of Volunteer Point on East Falkland. The course is then altered for Cape Pembroke in the approaches to Port Stanley.

The prevailing wind direction in the Falklands is westerly and these truly windy islands have a yearly average wind speed of 17 knots, with a slight rise in the summer months of December to March. The winds can drop to calm at sunset with a tendency to increase to 10–15 knots during the night, calming again at dawn. The winds tend to increase during the day and can reach gale force by the afternoon. Gales usually begin in the NW and quickly draw around to the SW. The worst gales tend to be those from the N and NE, which are not easily predicted and often occur without warning. They are caused by depressions moving north between the islands and the Patagonian coast. Northerly winds, which are common in the summer months from December to April, often produce fog along the north coast. When strong westerlies are blowing, the islands are prone to williwaws, which can be dangerous to small craft. These occur mostly in the lee of the islands and in some of the narrow passages between the islands.

Falkland immigration and port authority expects to be notified of a vessel’s arrival at least 24 hours in advance (admin@customs.gov.fk). Any vessel entering the port must report on channels 10 or 16 before crossing the reporting line, which joins Volunteer Point and Cape Pembroke. Facilities are quite good as a number of charter yachts operating in Antarctic waters have made their winter base here. The Falkland Islands Company should be contacted for delivery of fuel as well as any repair as they have a number of skilled workers capable of dealing with most jobs. The company has a 60-ton slip and 40-ton crane.

• AS23 Southbound from Brazil

BEST TIME: | December to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4020, US 20 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Argentina, Cruising the Coast of Brazil. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Salvador 12°58.0’S, 38°32.0’W | Salvador SW 13°00.5’S, 38°34.4’W | Belomonte 15°49.0’S, 38°40.0’W Abrolhos 17°42.0’S, 37°59.0’W Rio NE 23°01.0’S, 41°49.0’W |  |  |
|  | Rio SE 23°02.0’S, 43°3.5’W | Rio S 22°58.0’S, 43°08.1’W | Rio de Janeiro 22 °56.0’S, 43 °08.5’W | 751
|  | Rio SW 23°03.0’S, 43°16.0’W Santa Maria 28 ˚30.0’S, 48 ˚20.0’W Grande E 32˚20.0’S, 51 ˚16.0’W |  |  |
|  | Plata NE 35°02.0’S, 54°24.0’W |  |  |
|  | Plata E | Punta S | Punta del Este | 1754
|  | 35°04.0’S, 54°53.0’W | 34°58.7’S, 54°58.0’W | 34°57.5’S, 54 °57.2’W |
|  | Plata NW | Montevideo S | Montevideo | 1808
|  | 34°57.0’S, 55°56.0’W | 34°57.0’S, 56°13.5’W | 34°55.0’S, 56°13.5’W |
|  | Plata C 35°05.0’S, 56°30.0’W | Plata W 34°40.5’S, 57°56.0’W | Buenos Aires 34°35.7’S, 58°21.0’W | 1914

Southbound routes benefit from both the Brazilian Current, which sets SW at rates of between 1 and 2 knots and, between December and April, predominantly NE winds. Further south, a countercurrent setting northwards along the shore should be taken into account. Those planning a passage to destinations in Southern Brazil, and certainly in Argentina or Uruguay, would do better to sail offshore.

Salvador da Bahia is a good point of departure for southbound passages. A good time to be in Salvador is Carnival, which is the ideal time to head south. The inshore route, as far as Cape São Tomé, offers a variety of cruising opportunities, although for planning purposes only offshore waypoints are listed. Another hypothetical point of departure is Rio de Janeiro, and those starting from there may be tempted to explore more of the Brazilian coast south of Rio before heading offshore. Yachting facilities improve as one moves south and are best in the area between Rio de Janeiro and Santos.

• AS24 Southbound from Argentina

BEST TIME: | December to February |  |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4020, US 20 |  |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | A23 Voyages to Antarctica |  |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Patagonia & Tierra del Fuego | Nautical Guide, Argentina. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall |  | Arrival | Distance
Buenos Aires | Plata W | Plata SE |  |  |  |
34°35.7’S, 58°21.0’W | 34°40.5’S, 57°56.0’W | 36˚20.0’S, 56˚25.0’W |  |  |  |
Mar del Plata | Mar del Plata SE |  |  |  |  |
38°02.3’S, 57°31.2’W | 38°02.7’S, 57°30.5’W |  |  |  |  |
Puerto Madryn | Madryn E |  |  |  |  |
42 ˚46.0’S, 65 ˚01.0’W | 42°54.0’S, 64°8.0’W |  |  |  |  |
Puerto Deseado | Deseado E | [Magellan NE] | Magellan E |  | Punta Arenas X |
47°45.7’S, 65°53.5’W | 47°45.5’S, 65°49.0’W | 52°18.0’S, 68°10.0’W | 52°27.8’S, 68°24.0’W |  | 53°10.3’S, 70°54.0’W |
|  |  |  |  | Maire NW |  |  |  |
|  |  |  |  | 54°34.0’S, 64°59.0’W |  |  |  |
|  |  |  |  | Maire N |  |  |  |
|  |  |  |  | 54°41.0’S, 64°54.0’W |  |  |  |
|  |  |  |  | Maire SW |  |  |  |
|  |  |  |  | 54°56.0’S, 65°12.5’W |  |  |  |
| Punta Arenas | Puerto Williams | Ushuaia
Buenos Aires | 1254 | 1436 | 1464 |  | Beagle E |  |  |  |
Mar del Plata | 1078 | 1146 | 1174 |  | 55°05.5’S, 66°33.0’W |  |  |  |
Puerto Madryn | 698 | 1093 | 1121 |  | Snipe | Williams E |  | Puerto Williams |
Puerto Deseado | 399 | 736 | 764 |  | 54˚55.5’S, 67˚13.0’E | 54˚55.0’S, 67˚31.7’E |  | 54 °55.5’S, 67°36.0’W
|  |  |  |  | Williams N |  |  | Ushuaia |
|  |  |  |  | 54˚54.0’S, 67˚35.8’E |  |  | 54 °49.5’S, 68°13.5’W |

Having left the River Plate Estuary, this route runs parallel to the coastline and a good place to make an early stop is Mar del Plata as it has very good facilities to prepare for this passage. From there onward, the route runs close to the coast to stay in sheltered waters and to avoid the strong north-setting Falklands Current. The winds in this region are predominantly westerly so there is little risk of being caught on a lee shore. Gales from the east are extremely rare and when they occur there is always sufficient warning. From September through to June one can get SE gales accompanied by rain and heavy seas. These winds can also bring fog. A very dense fog can also occur with NW winds along the southerly portions of this coast in the months from February to October. When the wind shifts more to the south of west the fog usually clears. Northerly gales are preceded by overcast skies, haze, high clouds and some lightning. The wind increases gradually to gale force. In contrast to that, southerly winds increase to gale force much more suddenly and are more violent. A sign of impending bad weather from the south is a large mass of heavy cloud on the southern horizon. If a very low barometer starts rising, this may also be a sign of a wind shift to the south.

Having reached Puerto Deseado, the course can be altered for Cape Virgins, at the entrance into the Strait of Magellan. The strait must be approached with extreme caution as the tidal range is great and the tidal streams set strongly towards Sarmiento Bank and the dangers extending from Cape Virgins. The time of arrival at the strait should coincide with the start of the favourable tide and it must be remembered that the times of high and low water get later as one proceeds westward, until Royal Road is passed. This fact greatly assists passages from east to west and a vessel that catches the beginning of the west-setting stream in the First Narrows has a good chance of riding a favourable tide for nine hours, possibly as far as Punta Arenas. The tidal stream runs through the First Narrows from 5 to 7 knots and through the Second Narrows from 3 to 6 knots. The tidal range itself varies from about 40 feet at the east end of the strait to only 5 feet at its western end. The usual route from the Atlantic runs west through the following channels: Smyth, Sarmiento, Inocentes, Concepción, Largo, Messier and out through the Gulf of Penas into the Pacific Ocean. A shorter route reaches the Pacific through the Cockburn Channel.

Yachts bound for the Beagle Channel or Cape Horn should sail due south to make landfall north of Cape San Diego, at the entrance into Le Maire Strait. The recommended tactic is to sail south on an ebbing tide, and to be able to do this one should aim to reach Maire N about two hours before high water. The southbound passage should not be attempted in strong southerly winds as the 2–3-knot tide will quickly produce very rough seas. In such an eventuality shelter should be sought on the north coast of Isla de los Estados, such as in the well-sheltered Hoppner Bay.

Having negotiated Le Maire Strait, the route enters the Beagle Channel and leads to Puerto Williams, a small Chilean port on the north coast of Navarino Island. As Chile administers the area south of the Beagle Channel, formalities must be completed here for anyone planning to cruise in Chilean waters, call at Cape Horn or sail on to the Antarctic Peninsula. Facilities at Puerto Williams are very basic, and for any repairs or long-term provisioning one needs to continue along the Beagle Channel to Ushuaia, in Argentina. Ushuaia has the best facilities in the area and also regular flights to Buenos Aires.

• AS25 Northbound from Patagonia and Falkland Islands

BEST TIME: | December to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4020, US 20 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Patagonia & Tierra del Fuego Nautical Guide, Falkland Islands Shores, Argentina, Cruising the Coast of Brazil
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AS25A |  |  |  |  |
Ushuaia 54°49.5’S, 68°13.5’W | Williams N 54°54.0’S, 67°35.8’E |  |  |  |
Puerto Williams |  | Williams E |  |  |
54°55.5’S, 67°36.0’W |  | 54°55.0’S, 67°31.7’E Snipe 54°55.5’S, 67°13.0’E Beagle E 55°05.5’S, 66°33.0’W Maire SW 54°56.0’S, 65°12.5’W |  |  |
|  | Maire N |  |  |
|  | 54°41.0’S, 64°54.0’W Maire NW 54°34.0’S, 64°59.0’W |  |  |
Punta Arenas X | Magellan E | Magellan NE | Mar del Plata SE | Mar del Plata | 1174/1146/1078
53°10.3’S, 70°54.0’W | 52°27.8’S, 68°24.0’W | 52°18.0’S, 68°10.0’W Mar del Plata N 38°01.0’S, 57°30.0’W | 38°02.7’S, 57°30.5’W | 38°02.3’S, 57°31.2’W |
|  | Plata SE |  |  |
|  | 36°20.0’S, 56°25.0’W |  |  |
|  | Plata E 35°04.0’S, 54°53.0’W Plata NW 34°57.0’S, 55°56.0’W Plata C 35°5.0’S, 56°30.0’W | Punta S 34°58.7’S, 54°58.0’W Montevideo S 34°57.0’S, 56°13.5’W Plata W 34°40.5’S, 57°56.0’W | Punta del Este 34°57.5’S, 54 °57.2’W Montevideo 34°55.0’S, 56°13.5’W Buenos Aires 34°35.7’S, 58°21.0’W | 1336/1308/1298 1387/1358/1275 1464/1436/1254
|  | Plata NE |  |  |
|  | 35°02.0’S, 54°24.0’W Grande E 32°20.0’S, 51°16.0’W Santa Marta 28°30.0’S, 48°20.0’W |  |  |
|  |  | Rio SW | Rio de Janeiro | 2236/2208/2216
|  |  | 23°03.0’S, 43°16.0’W | 22 °56.0’S, 43°08.5’W |
|  | Rio SE |  |  |
|  | 23°02.0’S, 43°03.5’W |  |  |
|  | Rio NE |  |  |
|  | 23°01.0’S, 41°49.0’W |  |  |
|  | São Tomé 22°01.5’S, 40°36.0’W Abrolhos 17°42.0’S, 37°59.0’W |  |  |
|  | Noronha W | Noronha NW | Fernando de Noronha | 3535/3507/3519
|  | 3°52.6’S, 32°29.6’W | 3°49.0’S, 32°24.3’W | 3°49.9’S, 32 °24.3’W |
Route AS25B |  |  |  |  |
Port Stanley | Stanley NE | Falklands NE |  |  |
51°40.8’S, 57°49.7’W | 51°38.5’S, 57°42.0’W | 51°16.0’S, 57°39.0’W |  |  |
|  | [Rio SW Rio SE |  | Rio de Janeiro | 1853
|  | Rio NE] |  |  |
|  | São Tomé Abrolhos |  |  |
|  | Noronha W | Noronha NW | Fernando de Noronha | 3139

Northbound passages from Tierra del Fuego, the archipelago that makes up most of the southern tip of South America, can use either the Strait of Magellan or the Beagle Channel to reach the open sea. For boats coming from the south and not intending to stop in Argentina, the Falklands provide a convenient port of call before heading north into the South Atlantic.

Northbound passages as far as the River Plate can be sailed throughout the summer months and the direct route benefits both from the strong north-setting Falklands Current and the prevailing W winds. North of the River Plate, the prevailing winds in summer (October to April) are NE and therefore this section should not be attempted before May. Ideally passages from the Falklands should be done between December and February, with the subsequent leg to Rio de Janeiro and beyond being undertaken later, between May and September, when more favourable winds prevail along the Brazilian coast.

Boats that have reached the South Atlantic through the Strait of Magellan at Cape Virgins should set a course that runs parallel to the Argentine coast. Because none of the ports along this stretch of coast hold any real attraction for a cruising boat, a direct offshore route is highly recommended. If, for any reason, one needs to stop along the coast of Patagonia, the ports of Comodoro Rivadavia and Puerto Madryn offer basic facilities and fuel. However, better weather conditions and the favourable Falklands Current are strong arguments in favour of an offshore route.

Similar directions apply to boats coming from Cape Horn or the Beagle Channel, which will have passed through Le Maire Strait before heading north. Because of the difficulties associated with sailing through Le Maire Strait, where strong tidal currents can set up very rough conditions when met by a contrary wind, this direct route should only be attempted under favourable conditions. If this is not the case, it is preferable to take the longer route south and east of Isla de los Estados (Staten Island). Boats taking that route are normally bound for the Falkland Islands, which is a recommended stop for any northbound boat. Weather conditions prevailing along the east coast of Argentina are described in AS24.

Passages starting in the Falklands will take their departure off Volunteer Point on East Falkland. From there, the course for the River Plate Estuary runs almost due north. Boats bound for Rio de Janeiro or Fernando de Noronha can sail a direct offshore course all the way from the Falklands. Those who wish to sail the inshore route should refer to the intermediate waypoints listed in AS25A.

Voyages to the Caribbean, North America or Europe starting from either Patagonia or the Falklands can sail this same route as far as Fernando de Noronha and continue to their final destination by joining one of the routes starting from there.

• AS26 Northbound from Argentina

BEST TIME: | May to July |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4020, US 20 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising the Coast of Brazil. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Mar del Plata 38°02.3’S, 57°31.2’W Buenos Aires 34°35.7’S, 58°21.0’W | Mar del Plata N 38˚01.0’S, 57˚30.0’W Plata W 34°40.5’S, 57°56.0’W | Mendanos 36˚53.0’S, 56˚29.0’W Plata C 35°5.0’S, 56°30.0’W |  |  |
|  | Plata NE |  |  |
|  | 35°02.0’S, 54°24.0’W Grande E 32 ˚20.0’S, 51 ˚16.0’W Santa Maria 28 ˚30.0’S, 48 ˚20.0’W |  |  |
|  | Rio SW | Rio S | Rio de Janeiro | 1169/1061
|  | 23°3.0’S, 43°16.0’W | 22°58.0’S, 43°08.1’W | 22 °56.0’S, 43 °08.5’W |
|  | Rio SE 23°02.0’S, 43°03.5’W Rio NE 23°1.0’S, 41°49.0’W Abrolhos 17°42.0’S, 37°59.0’W Belomonte 15°49.0’S, 38°40.0’W |  |  |
|  | Salvador SW 13°00.5’S, 38°34.4’W Ponta Verde 9°50.0’S, 35°20.0’W |  | Salvador 12 °58.0’S, 38 °32.0’W | 1813/1687
|  | Noronha W 3°52.6’S, 32°29.6’W | Noronha NW 3°49.05’S, 32°24.3’W | Fernando de Noronha 3°49.9’S, 32 °24.3’W | 2470/2345

Sailing NE along the coast of South America is not an easy undertaking as there are a number of factors to be taken into account, such as the Brazilian Current, which sets SW at a rate of around 1 knot and covers an area that reaches between 200 and 400 miles off the coast. Between May and July, a countercurrent sets northward close inshore and may give a boost to boats heading in that direction. NE winds predominate along almost the entire coast from October to April, and are strongest between December and February. Beyond Cape Frio, the SE trade winds prevail between April and September, which is the time when one should plan to sail north along this coast as at other times NE winds make passages difficult. At all times of the year offshore passages are to be preferred, especially in the section south of Cape Frio.

Boats heading north from the Plate River Estuary, should sail a route parallel to the Brazilian coast by keeping within the effects of the countercurrent but at a safe distance off the coast. Punta del Este, at the mouth of the River Plate Estuary, is a busy sailing centre and a good port of departure. There are a number of possible ports of call along the Brazilian coast between Capes Santa Marta Grande and Frio, although only Rio de Janeiro has been listed here as a destination as the choice is far too wide. If stopping in Rio, one will find a better reception among the sailing clubs in Niteroi, such as the Brazilian Navy Club, although the most convenient is Marina Gloria near the centre of the city.

Those sailing an inshore route should be aware of the vagaries of weather close to land as in some places sudden violent gusts can hit without any warning out of a clear sky. One also needs to be aware of the possibility of a strong onshore-setting current, which can be experienced all along the coast but is most evident in the vicinity of capes, especially in shallow waters. One such area is over the São Tomé bank, close to the cape of the same name. One more hazard in inshore waters is the large number of fishing boats that are out at night in coastal waters, sometimes anchoring in deep water and showing no lights. Seasonal considerations become even more important for boats sailing north from Rio de Janeiro, unless one is prepared to move well offshore to avoid coastal influences. The inshore route passes close to the Abrolhos Islands and heads for Salvador da Bahia. Both are recommended stops, the former for the excellent cruising opportunities, the latter as a city with a vibrant culture. There are several marinas in or around Salvador and the range of repair facilities is reasonably good. Northbound routes from Brazil are described in further detail in AT21.

AS30 • Routes in the Southern Ocean

• | AS31 | Falkland Islands to Tristan da Cunha and Cape Town | 257
• | AS32 | Falkland Islands to South Georgia | 257
• | AS33 | Falkland Islands to Antarctica | 258
• | AS34 | Falkland Islands to Patagonia | 259
• | AS35 | Patagonia to Falkland Islands | 260
• | AS36 | Patagonia to Antarctica | 261
• | AS37 | Antarctica to Patagonia | 262
• | AS38 | Antarctica to Falkland Islands and South Georgia | 263
• | AS39 | Northbound from South Georgia | 264

Cape Horn and the stormy seas that surround it enjoy such a bad reputation in maritime lore that until not very long ago few cruising boats would dare go anywhere near that area. A few did sail past Cape Horn on their way to Europe, but sailing south of Cape Horn was simply not done. It is only in the last three decades that cruising boats have actually crossed the Drake Passage and cruised the western side of the Antarctic Peninsula during the short summer season. Gradually the awe that surrounded the sixth continent was broken as more sailors braved the elements and headed for the frozen south. The number of cruising boats that sail there annually is still relatively low and it will be some time before it gets really crowded down there. Nevertheless, sailing south into the 50s and 60s should not be taken too lightly, as these are still the stormiest waters in the world and being caught by a storm while crossing the Drake Passage, with a huge swell rolling in from the west, uninterrupted by any landmass, the wind screaming in the rigging and a lonely albatross gliding like a phantom in the clear sky, will fill even the most phlegmatic sailor with awe. These are wild seas, and you’d better be prepared for them!

Westerly winds predominate over the entire area and extend from about 40ºS to 55ºS for most of the year and to 60ºS in summer. These are the well-known Roaring Forties, which aptly describes the constancy and strength of these winds. Wind directions alter with the approach of fronts, and may vary from SW to NW, as they do during the passage of depressions. Further south, between 55ºS and 65ºS, in a region dominated by the movement of depressions, there is an almost equal distribution between W and NW winds. The direction of these winds is dictated by the northern limit of the depression tracks. Even further south, in the vicinity of the Antarctic Peninsula, there is a high percentage of easterly winds throughout the year. Average summer temperatures, near land, are around 0ºC, although the wind-chill factor must be taken into account.

Although sea ice extends to a considerable distance from the Antarctic coastline in winter, most of this ice melts in summer, thus making some parts of the coastline accessible from December to March. In a good summer most of the Antarctic Peninsula and much of the Bellinghausen Sea are free of pack ice. Icebergs occasionally drift north of 50ºS in an area east of the Falklands as far as longitude 30ºW. In the Drake Passage, the northern limit of icebergs coincides with the Antarctic Convergence Zone, although occasionally icebergs have been seen as far north as the latitude of Rio de Janeiro.

Sailing any of the routes described in this section can be a real challenge and will give the crew a well-deserved sense of satisfaction, but nothing will match the thrill and fulfilment felt by those fortunate enough to have sailed to and from Antarctica. Although a few yachts have visited Antarctica in recent years by starting from Australia or New Zealand, the great majority of cruising yachts that visit the Antarctic arrive there from South America, not only because of the shorter distances involved but also because the Antarctic Peninsula, as well as the South Shetland Islands to the north, provide the best cruising grounds.

When planning a voyage to these waters it is well worth reading the accounts of those who have sailed there before. Outstanding among these are the adventures of the Shackleton expedition of 1914–1916, not only for their experiences on the Antarctic continent itself but, from a sailor’s point of view, the amazing feat of the survivors who sailed the 20 ft whaleboat James Caird to Elephant Island and on to South Georgia after their Endurance had been crushed by ice in the Weddel Sea. When reading about those experiences in a small open boat, a very different perspective is added to a voyage into the Southern Ocean, even in a well-found modern sailing yacht.

Antarctica and the islands south of 60ºS are covered by an international treaty signed in 1961, and reinforced by a protocol signed in 1991, whose main objective is to preserve this wonderful region for future generations. Strict regulations apply to any person or vessel entering this area and mariners should therefore familiarise themselves with the provisions of the Antarctic Treaty and Protocol before arrival. The owner of the vessel must also obtain special permission to visit Antarctica from his or her national government. In the United Kingdom such permissions are granted by the Foreign Office.

AS30 Routes in the Southern Ocean

• AS31 Falkland Islands to Tristan da Cunha and Cape Town

BEST TIME: | January to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4020, 4022, US 22, 200 |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | South Africa Nautical Almanac |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Port Stanley 51 °40.8’S, 57°49.7’W | Stanley NE 51°38.5’S, 57°42.0’W | Inaccessible 37°19.0’S, 12°53.0’W | Tristan NW 36°59.0’S, 12°25.0’W | Tristan da Cunha 37°2.0’S, 12°18.0’W | 2128
|  | Cape S 34°00.5’S, 18°14.5’E |  | Cape Town 33°53.0’S, 18°26.0’E | 3513

Passages from the Falklands to South Africa can easily be sailed nonstop as the prevailing westerly winds will provide favourable conditions. If a detour to Tristan da Cunha is planned, the winds may become more variable as the island is approached. Depending on weather conditions, a great circle route is perhaps the way to go, but if one wishes to be sure of staying with westerly winds as far as possible, it may pay to stay south of the rhumb line and only alter course for Tristan as one crosses meridian 30ºW. In summer, the belt of steady westerlies is further south than at other times and this should ensure fair winds.

Approaching Tristan from the SW one will pass first the two uninhabited islands of Inaccessible and Nightingale before altering course for the north coast of Tristan. Neither of the islands may be visited before clearing in at Tristan. The port of entry is Edinburgh and the harbour master should be contacted on channel 16 for advice on the best place to anchor. Repair facilities are adequate and provisioning, depending on the season, is good but visitors pay a surcharge on supplies. Provisioning should be done at the first opportunity as one may be forced to leave at short notice should the weather deteriorate.

The rest of the voyage to Cape Town should continue to benefit from mostly favourable winds. As the prevailing summer winds in the Cape Town area are SE and gales from that direction are frequent, the coast should be approached from the SW to avoid being set to leeward by the wind and current setting strongly northward. Cape Town is South Africa’s premier yachting centre and has good repair facilities and several marinas. Visiting yachts are always welcome at the Royal Cape Yacht Club, which has its own marina and boatyard.

• AS32 Falkland Islands to South Georgia

BEST TIME: | December to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4024, US 20 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | South Georgia, Southern Ocean Cruising, Antarctica Cruising Guide, South Shetland Islands and Antarctic. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Port Stanley 51°40.8’S, 57°49.7’W | Stanley SE 51°40.0’S, 57°42.5’W | Georgia NW 53°43.0’S, 38°27.0’W | Georgia NE 54°07.0’S, 36°18.5’W | Grytviken 54°12.5’S, 36°27.0’W | 802

Prevailing westerly winds and the favourable Southern Ocean Current should ensure a fast passage across the Scotia Sea. A danger to be avoided is the Shag Rocks, which lie exactly on the direct route. The main group, located at 53º33’S, 42º02’W, has one rock 70 metres high. Ten miles SE is the 3-metre-high Black Rock and half a mile east of it is an unnamed rock, over which the seas break heavily.

Landfall at South Georgia will be made off Cape North from where the east coast will be followed as far as Grytviken, which used to be a thriving settlement but now has a small population, made up mostly of military personnel or visiting scientists. There are several good anchorages along this coast, which is indented by several fjords. Bird and sea life is prolific throughout this windswept island and the best time to visit is during the breeding season in late spring and early summer.

The marine officer should be contacted on arrival in Grytviken and there is a charge payable by all vessels visiting South Georgia. The main settlement is at King Edward Point Station, located at 54º17’S, 36º30’W, which is the headquarters of the British Antarctic Survey. No supplies are available and visiting yachts are expected to be entirely self-sufficient.

As part of Britain’s South Atlantic dependencies, South Georgia may only be visited with permission from the Commissioner for South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands, who should be contacted at Government House, Stanley, Falkland Islands.

• AS33 Falkland Islands to Antarctica

BEST TIME: | December to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4024, US 211 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Southern Ocean Cruising, Antarctica Cruising Guide. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AS33A |  |  |  |  |
Port Stanley 51°40.8’S, 57°49.7’W | Stanley SE 51°40.0’S, 57°42.5’W | Falklands S 52°28.0’S, 58°45.0’W Elephant N 61°01.0’S, 54°26.0’W Elephant S 61°23.0’S, 54°49.4’W |  |  |
|  | George 62°05.0’S, 56°41.3’W Deception SE 63°01.5’S, 60°32.5’W Peninsula NW 63°20.0’S, 59°22.0’W | Deception E 63°00.0’S, 60°25.2’W | Deception Island 63°00.0’S, 60°33.5’W | 765
Route AS33B |  |  |  |  |
Port Stanley | Stanley SE | Falklands S Drake SE 62°46.0’S, 62°00.0’W |  |  |
|  | Deception SW 63°02.0’S, 60°49.0’W | Deception SE | Deception Island | 730
|  | Smith SW 63°09.5’S, 63°05.0’W | Drake S 64°07.0’S, 63°04.0’W | Melchior 64°19.0’S, 62°58.0’W | 783

Boats bound for Antarctica may interrupt their voyage at Elephant Island, where the survivors of the Endurance expedition led by Sir Ernest Shackleton spent several months in 1916 before being rescued. For the passage from the Falklands it is advisable to wait for a spell of NE winds to make some westing before closing with Elephant Island. The Antarctic Convergence Zone will be passed on the way, an area rich in sea life, as countless birds, fish, dolphins and whales are attracted to these feeding grounds created by an ocean upwelling. The first icebergs will also be seen in this area, and they will remain a constant companion throughout one’s stay in Antarctic waters.

Boats coming from the north should make landfall to the east of Seal Island and approach the north coast of Elephant Island from that direction. Depending on weather conditions, temporary shelter may be found on that coast and there are two recommended inlets providing reasonable shelter at Emma Cove on the west coast and at Minstrel Cove on the north coast. Any of these anchorages must be left in onshore winds. Because the island has no all-weather anchorage, the weather should be monitored carefully.

If weather conditions do not permit a stop at Elephant Island it is advisable to sail directly to Deception Island. In this case, landfall should be made north of Nelson Island so as to approach Deception Island from NE. Deception Island is a partly collapsed volcanic cone that provides excellent shelter, and it was a major whaling station in the past. Port Foster is entered through Neptune’s Bellows, the aptly called windy narrow entrance that leads into the enclosed anchorage. Deception makes a good starting point for an Antarctic cruise. The best cruising area is along the west coast of the Antarctic Peninsula as far as Marguerite Bay, although the latter may only be reached in a summer when the pack ice limit has receded further south. There are a number of research stations in the area, some of which welcome visiting yachts.

• AS34 Falkland Islands to Patagonia

BEST TIME: | December to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4020, US 200 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Chile, Patagonia & Tierra del Fuego Nautical Guide, Southern Ocean Cruising. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AS34A |  |  |  |  |
Port Stanley 51°40.8’S, 57°49.7’W | Stanley SE 51°40.0’S, 57°42.5’W | Falklands S 52°28.0’S, 58°45.0’W |  |  |
|  | Falklands SW 52°29.0’S, 61°27.0’W | Magellan E 52°27.8’S, 68°24.0’W | Punta Arenas X 53°10.3’S, 70°54.0’W | 493
Route AS34B |  |  |  |  |
Port Stanley | Stanley SE | Falklands S Maire NE 54°35.0’S, 64°37.0’W Maire N 54°41.0’S, 64°54.0’W Maire SW 54°56.0’S, 65°12.5’W Beagle E 55°05.5’S, 66°33.0’W Snipe 54˚55.5’S, 67˚13.0’E |  |  |
|  | Williams E |  | Puerto Williams | 424
|  | 54°55.0’S, 67°31.7’W |  | 54°55.5’S, 67°36.0’W |
|  |  | Williams N | Ushuaia | 448
|  |  | 54°54.0’S, 67°35.8’W | 54 °49.5’S, 68°13.5’W |

The Falkland Islands make a convenient starting point for boats sailing to Patagonia, whether bound for the Strait of Magellan, Beagle Channel or even Cape Horn. The one drawback is that the passage will be mostly on the wind as the prevailing winds between the Falklands and the mainland are westerlies. To shorten the passage, and also to await a break in the weather, it is preferable to leave the Falklands from as far west as possible. This is certainly the case for those heading for the Strait of Magellan, for whom a good point of departure is one of the anchorages on the west side of East Falkland. Landfall will be made south of Dungeness Point at the entrance into the Strait of Magellan. Refer to AS24 for more details. The Chilean port of Punta Arenas is the main settlement in the area. It has only a limited range of yachting facilities, but regular flights to Santiago de Chile and other destinations.

In recent years more cruising boats have taken the southern route (AS34B), via Le Maire Strait, leading to the Beagle Channel, but this route may present the mariner with even more difficulties than those found in the Strait of Magellan. Sailing around Isla de los Estados (Staten Island) so as to avoid Le Maire Strait is not a recommended option because of the strong east-setting current sweeping around the south coast of that island. However, the fierce tidal currents that sweep through Le Maire Strait make it imperative to carefully time one’s passage through those notorious waters. The recommended tactic for a southbound passage is to sail south on an ebbing tide. Therefore you should aim to arrive at the northern entrance into Le Maire Strait about two hours before high water. The southbound passage should not be attempted in strong southerly winds as the 2–3-knot tide will quickly result in very rough seas. In such an eventuality shelter should be sought on the north coast of Isla de los Estados, such as in the sheltered Hoppner Bay.

Rather than risk the rough conditions described above, it may be preferable to sail south through Le Maire Strait against wind and tide, rather than with a favourable tide but contrary wind. South of Le Maire Strait, the Beagle Channel is entered north of Isla Nueva and leads to Puerto Williams. This small port is located on Navarino Island, on the south shore of the Beagle Channel, where the Chilean military maintains a small base. Although facilities for yachts are limited, and better facilities and provisioning will be found at Ushuaia, in neighbouring Argentina, Puerto Williams is a convenient place from which to explore the surrounding area, or to set off on the passage to Antarctica.

• AS35 Patagonia to Falkland Islands

BEST TIME: | December to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4020, US 200 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Falkland Islands Shores. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AS35A |  |  |  |  |
Ushuaia 54°49.5’S, 68°13.5’W | Williams N 54°54.0’S, 67°35.8’W |  |  |  |
Puerto Williams | Williams E | Snipe |  |  |
54°55.5’S, 67°36.0’W | 54°55.0’S, 67°31.7’W | 54 ˚55.5’S, 67˚13.0’E Beagle E 55°05.5’S, 66°33.0’W Maire SW 54°56.0’S, 65°12.5’W Maire N 54°41.0’S, 64°54.0’W Maire NE 54°35.0’S, 64°37.0’W |  |  |
|  | Falklands S 52°28.0’S, 58°45.0’W | Stanley SE 51°40.0’S, 57°42.5’W | Port Stanley 51°40.8’S, 57°49.7’W | 448/424
Route AS35B |  |  |  |  |
Punta Arenas X 53°10.3’S, 70°54.0’W | Magellan E 52°27.8’S, 68°24.0’W | Falklands SW 52°29.0’S, 61°27.0’W |  |  |
|  | Falklands S | Stanley SE | Port Stanley | 493
Route AS35C |  |  |  |  |
Ushuaia | Williams N |  |  |  |
Puerto Williams | Williams E | Snipe Beagle E Estados SW 54°57.0S, 64°44.0W Estados SE 54°47.0S, 63°39.0W |  |  |
|  | Falklands S | Stanley SE | Port Stanley | 446/418

Passages to the Falklands from any of the above starting points benefit from good sailing conditions thanks to the prevailing westerly winds. Route AS35B is the most direct. From Dungeness Point, at the entrance into the Strait of Magellan, a course can be set almost due east to East Falkland. The route follows the south and east coasts of that island to Cape Pembroke where the course can be altered for Port Stanley.

The alternative route uses the Beagle Channel to reach the open sea. Depending on weather conditions, the Le Maire Strait may be used to get some shelter from SW winds by sailing through the strait and passing north of Isla de los Estados, but because of the difficult navigation through that strait, and the fierce currents that sweep through it, it is probably better to carry on south of Isla de los Estados (route AS35C). From a waypoint just SE of the island, a course is set for the Falklands. Landfall will be made close to the Sea Lion Islands, which should be left well to port, and then the east coast is followed to Pembroke Point and Port Stanley. For details of weather conditions in the Falklands, see AS22.

Falkland immigration and port authority expect to be notified of a vessel’s arrival at least 24 hours in advance (admin@customs.gov.fk). Any vessel entering the port must report on channels 10 or 16 before crossing the reporting line, which joins Volunteer Point and Cape Pembroke. Facilities are quite good as a number of charter yachts operating in Antarctic waters have made their winter base here. The Falkland Islands Company should be contacted for delivery of fuel as well as any repair as they have a number of skilled workers capable of dealing with most jobs. The company has a 60-ton slip and 40-ton crane.

• AS36 Patagonia to Antarctica

BEST TIME: | January to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4024, US 211 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Southern Ocean Cruising, Antarctica Cruising Guide, South Shetland Islands and Antarctic. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AS36A |  |  |  |  |
Ushuaia 54°49.5’S, 68°13.5’W |  | Williams N 54°54.0’S, 67°35.8’W |  |  |
Puerto Williams |  | Williams E |  |  |
54 °55.5’S, 67°36.0’W |  | 54°55.0’S, 67°31.7’W Snipe 54˚55.5’S, 67˚13.0’E Lennox 55°18.0’S, 66°44.1’W Drake NE 55°32.0’S, 66°31.0’W Drake SE 62°46.0’S, 62°0.0’W |  |  |
|  | Deception SW | Deception SE | Deception Island | 580/559
|  | 63°02.0’S, 60°49.0’W | 63°01.5’S, 60°32.5’W | 63°00.0’S, 60°33.5’W |
Route AS36B |  |  |  |  |
Ushuaia | Williams N |  |  |  |
Puerto Williams | Williams E | Snipe |  |  |
|  | Lennox Drake NE |  |  |
|  | Smith SW | Drake SW | Melchior | 619/598
|  | 63°09.5’S, 63°5.0’W | 64°50.0’S, 64°50.0’W | 64°19.0’S, 62 °58.0’W |

Because Chile controls a wedge of land and sea that comprises most of the very south of the South American continent, including the Beagle Channel, as well as the Antarctic Peninsula, vessels that pass through this area, and certainly any that intend to visit the Antarctic Peninsula, must complete formalities in Puerto Williams. Located on the north shore of Navarino Island, and facing the Beagle Channel, this colourful little settlement has the distinction of being the most southerly town in the world. The Chilean Navy has a base here, provisioning is adequate, and there is also a small airfield. Better facilities as well as a larger airport will be found at Ushuaia, in Argentina, further west along that same Beagle Channel. Ushuaia is in fact used as a transit port by all charter boats based in the area as it has the best facilities in the region and regular flights to Buenos Aires.

Weather forecasts can be obtained from the Chilean naval station in Puerto Williams before setting off across the Drake Passage. The first 30 miles lead through the protected waters of the Beagle Channel and the open sea is reached through Richmond Pass, although in strong easterly winds it is better to stay west of Lennox Island. A direct course across the Drake Passage can be set when level with the Barnevelt Islands. The Antarctic Convergence Zone will be passed on the way to Antarctica, an area rich in sea life, as countless birds, fish, dolphins and whales are attracted to these feeding grounds created by an ocean upwelling. The first icebergs will also be seen in this area, and they will continue to be present throughout your stay in Antarctic waters.

There are several points where landfall can be made on the Antarctic Peninsula, and they will dictate the route across the Drake Passage. There is also the consideration as to the order in which to cruise the peninsula, as it makes more sense to finish such a cruise as far south and west as possible so as to benefit from the best wind angle for the return passage. The disadvantage of this is that the further south one starts, the longer the distance to sail in the open sea. Generally, the best solution is to make landfall in one of the South Shetlands, then cruise south and leave from the Melchior Islands.

An ideal first stop is Deception Island, a partly collapsed volcanic crater that provides excellent shelter and was a major whaling station in the past. Those who take this route will make landfall north of Smith Island and approach Deception from the west through the Boyd Channel. Port Foster is entered through Neptune’s Bellows, the aptly called windy entrance that leads into the enclosed anchorage.

An alternative route is to sail further south and make landfall at the Melchior Islands and then enter the scenic Gerlache Strait from the west. The best cruising area is between here and Marguerite Bay, although the latter may only be reached in a summer when the pack ice limit has receded further south. There are a number of research stations in the area, some of which welcome visiting sailors.

Weather conditions across the Drake Passage are generally favourable during the optimum period. Strong westerly winds and a large swell are the order of the day. Depressions pass regularly south of Cape Horn and even in summer it is very unlikely that the entire crossing will be completed without being caught by a passing depression. While this will not be much of a problem on a southbound passage, their effect can be quite unpleasant on the return passage.

• AS37 Antarctica to Patagonia

BEST TIME: | January to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4024, US 211 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Southern Ocean Cruising, Chile, Patagonia & Tierra del Fuego Nautical Guide. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Melchior 64°19.0’S, 62°58.0’W | Drake SW 64°50.0’S, 64°50.0’W | Smith SW 63°09.5’S, 63°5.0’W |  |  |
|  | [Horn S] 56°00.0’S, 67°14.0’W Drake NE 55°32.0’S, 66°31.0’W Lennox 55°18.0’S, 66°44.1’W | Horn E 55°57.5’S, 67°11.0’W | Horn Island 55°57.7’S, 67°13.2’W | 532
|  | Snipe | Williams E | Puerto Williams | 598
|  | 54 ˚55.5’S, 67˚13.0’E | 54°55.0’S, 67°31.7’W | 54°55.5’S, 67°36.0’W |
|  |  | Williams N 54°54.0’S, 67°35.8’W | Ushuaia 54°49.5’S, 68°13.5’W | 619

When the time comes for the return passage to the South American mainland, probably the best place to wait for a good weather window is in the shelter of the Melchior Islands. Melchior Harbour offers all-round protection and is just a short distance from the open sea. An Argentine research station is located close by, but it is only open and manned at the height of the summer season.

As the course across the Drake Passage is west of north and some of the worst gales are also from NW, it pays to make some westing early in the passage. One must also reckon with the Southern Ocean Current, which sets east at about 1 knot. A combination of all this can make it very difficult to get back to one’s chosen landfall so every effort should be made not to be swept eastwards. Arriving on the continental shelf, off Cape Horn, should be avoided in strong winds as the seas will be much rougher than further offshore. If everything works according to plan, landfall will be made off Cape Horn Island, which can be visited in settled weather. There is a beach on the NE side where a dinghy can be landed if there is not too much swell, just below a small building housing the Chilean lighthouse keeper and his family.

The Woollaston Islands, north of Cape Horn, have a number of sheltered anchorages if one cannot proceed immediately to Puerto Williams. It must be stressed that the channel on the west side of Navarino Island, which would provide a short cut to Ushuaia, is closed by the Chilean military for strategic reasons and vessels are strictly forbidden to use this channel. They must proceed east of Navarino Island and enter the Beagle Channel from the east. Just before Puerto Williams, the small fishing port of Puerto Toro (55º05’S, 67º05’W) provides good shelter and the chance to buy some fresh seafood when the local fishing boats bring in their catch. No other provisions are available.

On arrival in Puerto Williams, visiting boats tie up alongside a half-sunken ship, acting now as the local yacht club, in a creek on the west side of the settlement. Arriving yachts must complete clearance formalities, even if technically they have not left Chilean waters.

• AS38 Antarctica to Falkland Islands and South Georgia

BEST TIME: | December to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4024, US 211 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Southern Ocean Cruising, Falkland Islands Shores, South Georgia. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AS38A |  |  |  |  |
Melchior 64°19.0’S, 62°58.0’W | Drake SW 64°50.0’S, 64°50.0’W | Smith SW 63°09.5’S, 63°05.0’W |  |  |
|  | Falklands S 52°28.0’S, 58°45.0’W | Stanley SE 51°40.0’S, 57°42.5’W | Port Stanley 51°40.8’S, 57°49.7’W |   783
Route AS38B |  |  |  |  |
Deception Island 63°00.0’S, 60°33.5’W | Deception E 63°00.0’S, 60°25.2’W | George 62°05.00’S, 56°41.3’W Elephant S 61°23.0’S, 54°49.4’W Elephant N 61°01.0’S, 54°26.0’W |  |  |
|  | Falklands S | Stanley SE | Port Stanley |   765
Route AS38C |  |  |  |  |
Melchior | Drake SW | Smith SW Deception E George Coronation NW 60°20.0’S, 45°48.0’W | Deception SE | Deception Island |   730
|  | Georgia W 54°13.0’S, 39°4.0’W | Georgia NW 53°43.0’S, 38°27.0’W | Grytviken 54°12.5’S, 36°27.0’W | 1020

Passages from the Antarctic Peninsula to the South American mainland are always difficult because of the possibility of strong NW winds on the return voyage as well as the east-setting current in the Drake Passage, so a destination further east, such as the Falklands, may be preferable. Because of the difficulties associated with a return to Cape Horn, it may be advisable to plan the voyage in such a way that Tierra del Fuego will be visited before Antarctica so that on completion of the Antarctic cruise one can sail directly to the Falklands. This is a considerably easier route and also benefits from the shelter provided by the South Shetland Islands before a course is set across the open sea.

There are various points from where to depart, such as Deception Island or perhaps King George Island, where there are a number of research stations as well as a military airfield. The best facilities in the area, including a small hospital, are situated there.

Those who wish to depart from a point further west may do so from the Melchior Islands where Melchior Harbour offers all round protection and is just a short distance from the open sea. An Argentine research station is located close by, but it is only opened and manned at the height of the summer season. The route passes between Low and Smith Islands before a course can be set across the Drake Passage.

Having passed King George and Elephant Islands, those sailing on route AS38A will have a clear run passing well to the east of Isla de los Estados. Landfall will be made south of East Falkland, and its coast is then followed to Pembroke Point and Port Stanley. For arrival information refer to AS35 and for details of weather conditions in the Falklands see AS22.

Passages along route AS38B should sail a course that passes north of Coronation Island and makes landfall off the NW coast of South Georgia. From Cape North the coast will be followed to the main settlement at Grytviken. See AS32 for further details.

Although neither the Antarctic Peninsula nor the South Shetland Islands fall under the direct jurisdiction of the British authorities, those planning to continue their voyage to the Falklands should write in advance about their cruising plans to the Commissioner for South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands, Government House, Port Stanley, Falkland Islands.

• AS39 Northbound from South Georgia

BEST TIME: | December to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4020, 4022, US 211 |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route AS39A |  |  |  |  |
Grytviken 54°12.5’S, 36°27.0’W | Georgia NE 54°07.0’S, 36°18.5’W |  | Cape S 34°00.5’S, 18°14.5’E | Cape Town 33°53.0’S, 18°26.0’E | 2657
Route AS39B |  |  |  |  |
Grytviken | Inaccessible 37°19.0’S, 12°53.0’W | Tristan W 37°02.0’S, 12°25.1’W | Tristan NW 36°59.0’S, 12°25.0’W | Tristan da Cunha 37°02.0’S, 12°18.0’W | 1450
|  | Helena W 15°59.5’S, 5°49.0’W | Helena NW 15°54.0’S, 5°43.5’W | Jamestown 15°55.2’S, 5°43.3’W | 2768
|  | Ascension SW 7°59.0’S, 14°26.0’W | Ascension W 7°56.0’S, 14°25.7’W | Ascension 7°55.3’S, 14°24.7’W | 3471
Route AS39C |  |  |  |  |
Grytviken | Georgia NE | Noronha W | Noronha NW | Fernando de Noronha | 3029
|  | 3°52.6’S, 32°29.6’W | 3°49.0’S, 32°24.3’W | 3°49.9’S, 32 °24.3’W |

Returning passages from the Southern Ocean have a number of options and those outlined here are meant for those whose final destination may be beyond the South Atlantic. Route AS39A bound for Cape Town may be sailed nonstop or via Tristan da Cunha. The northbound route AS39B has the attraction of calling at a number of remote islands before crossing the equator and continuing either in a NW direction towards North America, or a NE direction towards Europe. Those bound for the Caribbean or North America have the option of the more western route AS39C with a suggested intermediate port of call at Fernando de Noronha, a favourite cruising hub for boats on transequatorial passages.

Weather conditions on a northbound passage are generally good, with prevailing SW and W winds at the start and, after an area of variable winds has been crossed, SE trade winds will ensure a fast passage to either St Helena, Ascension or Fernando de Noronha. Passages to Cape Town benefit from westerly winds throughout the recommended period.

WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE NORTH PACIFIC

There was a grandeur in everything around which gave a solemnity to the scene. No human being but ourselves for miles; and no sound heard but the pulsations of the great Pacific!

Richard Henry Dana

The northeast trade winds

These winds blow on the southern side of the area of high pressure that is normally located around latitude 30ºN. The NE trade winds are particularly consistent in both direction and strength over large areas of the North Pacific. Their direction is north and even northwest near the American coast, becoming increasingly easterly in the Western North Pacific. Their strength is about 10 to 15 knots, although they can become fresher at times and at the height of the trade wind season winds of 30 knots are not uncommon. The strongest winds are likely to be encountered in winter, between November and March, but they diminish in strength towards the equator.

The entire trade wind belt moves north and south throughout the year in accordance with the declination of the sun. However, their northern and southern limits do not run in a straight line from east to west, but in a curve that reaches its highest point in summer in about latitude 35ºN about 200 miles from the American coast, the corresponding southern limit being in latitude 8ºN. The northern limit of the trade winds in winter is 29ºN, in about longitude 150ºW, with the southern limit for the same period being the equator.

Intertropical convergence zone (itcz)

The NE trade winds are bound to the south by the ITCZ, which remains north of the equator throughout the year east of 160ºW. To the west of that longitude it moves south of the equator during the northern winter, from about December to April or early May. During the summer in the northern hemisphere, when the SE trade winds are at their strongest in the South Pacific, the ITCZ disappears altogether west of about 160ºW, where the two trade wind systems run into each other and the belt of doldrums is virtually non-existent. In the Western North Pacific, the ITCZ is only present during the changeover periods of the monsoons, from mid-April to mid-May and from mid-September to mid-November. The weather inside the zone is typical doldrums weather, with calms or light winds alternating with squalls, heavy rain and thunderstorms. However, as one moves west, the frequency of calms and light variable winds diminishes and the prevailing winds, even inside the doldrums, are easterlies.

The northeast monsoon

This monsoon affects a large area of the Western North Pacific mainly due to the intense cold of the winter months over the landmass of Asia, which creates an area of high pressure over parts of East Asia. The resulting wind circulation around this winter high produces a flow of NE winds that prevail during the winter months in the China Sea and adjacent waters. The NE monsoon of the Western North Pacific is particularly noticeable between latitudes 5ºN and 30ºN. Its eastern limits are more difficult to define as it merges with the NE trade winds of the North Pacific. At its height, the NE monsoon of the China Sea forms a continuous wind system with the NE trade wind of the North Pacific, so that in December and January there is a belt of strong NE winds right across the ocean from California to China.

The arrival of the NE monsoon depends on latitude and it starts earlier in the north and later in the south. Although it commences around September at its northern limit, the NE monsoon is only fully established by late November and lasts until March. The changeover period to the SW monsoon, in April–May and August–September, is marked by calms and variable winds. The strength of the wind is also influenced by latitude, the monsoon being strongest in the north, where it blows an average 25 knots, decreasing to 15 knots and less among the islands of the Philippines and Northern Indonesia. At the height of winter, in December and January, the monsoon can blow with gale force for many days, the stormiest area being the open waters between the Philippines, Taiwan and Japan.

North Pacific Currents

The southwest monsoon

A reversal of the NE monsoon occurs during the summer when the heating up of the Asian landmass creates a large area of low pressure over the eastern part of the continent. As a result, the SE trade winds of the Indian and Pacific Oceans are drawn across the equator. Because of the rotation of the earth, the SE winds are deflected to the right, becoming the SW monsoon in the western part of the Pacific Ocean. In the China Sea the winds are predominantly S and SW, whereas towards Japan they are either S or SE. The area affected by the SW monsoon is generally situated west of 140ºE and south of 40ºN. Steady SW winds are experienced in the China Sea during July, but further north the monsoon is felt less and variable winds become increasingly common. The weather during the SW monsoon is often unsettled and there is a high frequency of squalls, in which the wind reaches gale force.

Variables

The two monsoons and the NE trade winds are replaced on the polar side of the North Pacific High by a belt of variable winds that is relatively narrow and rarely exceeds 300 miles in width. The variable zone is influenced by the position of the high-pressure area, which moves north in summer, when light and variable winds can be expected between latitudes 35ºN and 40ºN. In winter the high moves south when it stretches from about 25ºN to 30ºN. The movement of air around the North Pacific High has a direct bearing on the winds of the variable zone. In the eastern half of the ocean, winds tend to be northerly in summer and merge with the NE trades. In the western part of the ocean, the direction of the winds is more southerly so that they form an extension of the SW monsoon.

Westerlies

North of about 35ºN the zone of variable winds is gradually replaced by an area of prevailing westerlies. These are not as boisterous or consistent as the westerlies of the Southern Ocean and the northern limit of the variables is more difficult to define. Westerly winds are more reliable both in direction and strength during the winter when conditions can be rough and stormy, while in summer the weather is more benign as fewer depressions race across the North Pacific between Japan and Alaska. The best weather can be expected in July, when light to moderate westerly winds predominate north of latitude 40ºN.

Regional winds

There are two local winds that occur off Mexico’s Pacific coast. The chubasco is a violent wind that occurs mostly in summer and early autumn. It affects the entire Pacific coast but is worst in the Sea of Cortez where it can gust to 70 knots. A chubasco, which means ‘squall’ in Spanish, often strikes at night. A similarly dreaded local wind affects the Gulf of Tehuantepec, and is called by sailors the tehuantepecer. Such winds can occur throughout the year, with the worst period being between December and February. Winds can reach hurricane force in a relatively short time and with very little warning.

A local wind that blows off Nicaragua and El Salvador is the papagayo, a violent north or northeast wind occurring between October and April with the worst period between the end of November and the end of January. Its effects can be felt as far as 150 miles offshore.

The Santa Ana winds are strong katabatic winds that originate inland and affect coastal Southern California and Northern Baja California. Santa Anas blow mostly in autumn and winter, but can arise also at other times of the year. They can range from hot to cold, depending on the prevailing temperatures in the source regions but are known especially for the hot dry weather that they bring in autumn. A large NE swell can develop during a Santa Ana.

Similar winds occur in late spring to early summer and are strongest at sunset, hence their name sundowner. Because high-pressure areas usually migrate east, changing the pressure gradient in southern California to the northeast, it is common for a sundowner to precede a Santa Ana by a day or two.

Tropical storms

There are two areas of the North Pacific Ocean that are subject to tropical revolving storms: the typhoons of East Asia and the hurricanes of the Eastern North Pacific. The region affected by hurricanes lies in the vicinity of the American coast, south of latitude 30ºN to about latitude 10ºN. This area includes the Pacific coasts of Mexico and Central America and extends as far as longitude 140ºW, just west of Hawaii, an aspect that must be borne in mind by those planning to cross this area during the dangerous season. Theoretically the hurricane season lasts from May to November, although most hurricanes have been recorded between June and October, the month with the highest frequency being September. The only four months considered to be safe are January to April, as on a few occasions hurricanes have occurred in May as well as December. As a general rule only the earlier hurricanes travel to the western limit, whereas later in the season hurricanes are more likely to stay close to the coast. Therefore if a passage through this area is undertaken towards the end of the hurricane season, it is advisable to move offshore as quickly as possible.

The region affected by typhoons covers a much larger area stretching all the way from Micronesia to Japan. To the east the area is bound by Guam and the Mariana Islands, to the west by the Philippines, Taiwan and the northern part of the South China Sea. The typhoon season is less well defined than the hurricanes of the Eastern Pacific and no month can be regarded as completely safe. However, most typhoons occur between May and December, and during this period over half the typhoons have been recorded between July and October. September is the most dangerous month, with an annual average of over four typhoons. The period with the least likelihood of typhoons is January to April. As no typhoons have been recorded from December to April in the area between the northern part of the China Sea and the western side of the Sea of Japan, this is considered to be the safest time for passages to and from Japan.

More tropical cyclones form in the tropical North Pacific, especially in its western part, than anywhere else in the world. On average, more than 25 tropical storms develop each year and about 18 become fully fledged typhoons. These typhoons are the most intense tropical storms in the world. Each year an average of five typhoons generate maximum winds of over 130 knots. The critical area usually covers more than 600 miles in diameter. Most of the storms form east of the Philippines and move across the Pacific towards the Asian mainland, Japan and China. A few storms form in the South China Sea. There is a noticeable seasonal shift in storm tracks in this region. From July to September, storms move north of the Philippines before they recurve, usually to N and NE. Early and late in the season, typhoons move on a more westerly track through the Philippines before recurving.

The area in and around the Philippines has the highest risk of typhoons. Some of the strongest typhoons have been recorded here and in recent years storms have occurred in every month of the year. Extreme caution is therefore advised if you are planning to cruise in this area, even during the lower-risk period which is January to March.

There have been several recent instances in the North Pacific that may signal a major change in weather patterns. In the 2016 season hurricane Pali occurred from 7 to 15 January and marked the earliest formation of a tropical cyclone in the Eastern North Pacific. Pali reached a minimum latitude of 2°N, making it the lowest latitude tropical cyclone on record. In the 2017 hurricane season tropical storm Adrian occurred on 10 May as the earliest-known tropical storm in the Eastern Pacific since the advent of satellite imagery. The last of the season was tropical storm Selma on 27 October. This marked only the second time that an Eastern Pacific tropical cyclone became a tropical storm east of 90° W. Selma affected Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Guatemala, Honduras and was the first to also affect El Salvador. The Central American countries were also directly affected by a destructive hurricane in 2020 when Amanda struck the area on 29 May. A total of 17 hurricanes were recorded in the NE Pacific. The 2021 hurricane season was less active, but stood out with Andres, which occurred on 9 May, the earliest tropical storm east of 140° W longitude.

In the Northwest Pacific both the frequency and force of typhoons is on the increase, with some super-typhoons having gusts of 200 knots or more. On 15 September 2018 super-typhoon Mangkhut struck the Philippines as a category 5 tropical storm, one of the strongest ever recorded. It continued its destructive path towards Hong Kong and Southern China. In early January 2019 Typhoon Pabuk became the earliest tropical storm of the Western Pacific Ocean on record. It crossed the Gulf of Siam and entered the North Indian Ocean on 4 January. In February, a tropical depression formed over the Marshall Islands and gathered in strength as it moved westwards towards Guam. Typhoon Wutip intensified into a super typhoon becoming the strongest February typhoon on record. The 2020 typhoon season was just as active, with 12 typhoons, among them three category 4, and Goni, a super-typhoon of category 5. The first typhoon of the 2021 season struck the Philippines on 13 April. Surigae was upgraded to a category 5 super-typhoon. By the time this book went to press, the NW Pacific had recorded another super-typhoon, Kiko, in early September 2021.

In recent years tropical storms have been recorded in the Northwest Pacific in every month of the year, with a well-defined safe season no longer possible. This aspect now also affects some parts of Micronesia.

Currents

The surface circulation of the North Pacific Ocean resembles a huge merry-go-round in which various currents move in a clockwise direction around a cell located slightly off-centre in the northern hemisphere. The main spring of this circular movement is the North Equatorial Current, which flows westward with its axis at about latitude 12ºN. To the south of this current is the eastward-flowing Equatorial Countercurrent, which has its southern limit between latitudes 2ºN and 4ºN where it is bound by the South Equatorial Current.

The North Equatorial Current is fed mainly by the California Current and the northern branch of the Equatorial Countercurrent. Further west it is reinforced by the North Pacific Current and further west still it divides in two, the southern branch reversing its direction to become the Equatorial Countercurrent, while the northern branch carries on towards Taiwan and Japan. This is the main source of the Kuro Shio, a flow of warm water similar to the Gulf Stream of the North Atlantic. The main difference is that the direction of the Kuro Shio is seasonal, setting to the NE during the SW monsoon, but reversing its direction in winter, at the height of the NE monsoon.

Along the southern coast of Japan the main direction of the Kuro Shio is NE. It subsequently fans out in about latitude 35ºN to form the North Pacific Current. Reinforced by the Aleutian Current, this current flows in a broad band across the North Pacific towards North America. East of latitude 160ºE this current starts fanning out, part of it turning south, while the main body continues eastwards towards the North American continent, where it turns SE and its name is changed to the California Current. It then flows into the North Equatorial Current thus completing the clockwise circulation round the North Pacific basin.

The surface circulation along the Pacific coast of Central America and the Gulf of Panama is more erratic, with pronounced seasonal variations that make predictions impossible. In the Gulf of Panama the movement of water is more complicated, with an inflow of water at both extremes and an outflow in the centre that joins the South Equatorial Current.

Tsunamis

Earthquakes that occur under the ocean floor can cause large waves that can affect low-lying countries and islands thousands of miles away. The North Pacific has been devastated by many tsunamis in the past. There have been six destructive tsunamis in Hawaii during the last century; one of the worst occurred in 1960, causing great destruction in Hilo where over 60 people lost their lives. A tsunami caused by an 8.8 magnitude earthquake in Chile on 27 February 2010 affected large areas of the Pacific Ocean and caused serious damage as far as Japan. Boats are normally unaffected by tsunamis at sea or if anchored in deeper water.

On 11 March 2011 an earthquake of magnitude 9, one of the strongest tremors ever recorded, struck NE Japan. The resulting tsunami was also one of the most destructive, causing widespread devastation in nearby coastal areas with an estimated 20,000 deaths and entire towns being obliterated. Its effects were felt throughout the Pacific with wave damage reported as far as the state of Oregon in the USA. Severe damage was caused to the Fukushima nuclear power plant with leaks of radioactive cooling water still being reported nearly two years later.

ROUTES IN THE NORTH PACIFIC

PN10 | • | Routes from the West Coast of North America
PN20 | • | Pacific routes from Central America and Mexico
PN30 | • | Routes from Hawaii
PN40 | • | Pacific routes from Singapore
PN50 | • | Routes from the Philippines
PN60 | • | Routes from Hong Kong and China
PN70 | • | Routes from Japan
PN80 | • | Routes in Micronesia

In spite of the great concentration of sailing boats on the west coast of North America, particularly in California, the number of offshore routes in the North Pacific is relatively small. By far the most popular offshore destination is Hawaii; otherwise, cruising boats from the USA or Canada looking for an offshore challenge have to sail either to the South Pacific or down the coast of Mexico to the Sea of Cortez and beyond to Central America. One cruising destination that is gaining in popularity is Alaska, which is often reached by Californian boats via Hawaii. In spite of the longer distances involved, a detour via Hawaii has the attraction of better winds, as a direct route from California or the Pacific Northwest would have contrary winds much of the way. For those who are not attracted by the long detour to Hawaii, but are equally undeterred by the prospect of being hard on the wind and relying heavily on their engine to make progress, the more direct route along the coast may provide an alternative. Most of those who to go this way usually plan to go as far north as possible during the summer, leave the boat for the coming winter in a convenient place in the Pacific Northwest and resume their voyage the following spring, usually through the Inside Passage. This timetable has the attraction of arriving in Alaska at the start of the season. The return voyage home at the end of summer should be all downwind, a fully deserved bonus for the effort required on the outbound voyage.

For the sake of simplicity, the west coast of North America has been divided into two large groups, with routes starting either from California or the Pacific Northwest. Because of the paucity of offshore destinations, most cruising is coastal. Inshore passages along the coast of California and beyond are therefore not within the scope of this book. However, because of the strength of the prevailing winds, many people who might prefer to sail offshore are forced to choose the inshore tactic. The one point to remember by those heading north is to keep moving and make the best of calm weather, which rarely lasts long. It is also worth remembering that November has the lighter winds, especially along the coast of Baja California, whereas May, the other month when many boats make their way along this coast, has stronger winds. In conclusion, it is better to use November to move in both directions, and to avoid May if possible for making northbound passages.

Windgrams showing a summary of wind conditions along some popular cruising routes

Panama to Cabo San Lucas, March
Cabo San Lucas to San Diego, April
Honolulu to Sitka, June
Honolulu to San Francisco, August

On the opposite side of the North Pacific, the Asian mainland is also mostly bereft of attractive cruising grounds within easy reach. This is the main reason why sailing is still such a minority leisure activity compared to Europe or North America. However, the situation is slowly changing and there is little doubt that in the not too distant future Chinese sailors will discover the pleasures of exploring the Philippines, Micronesia and even Polynesia. The situation in Japan is very different as sailing has its aficionados but even there most of it is limited to home waters.

The islands of Micronesia are yet to be discovered as a major cruising ground and the relatively small number of boats visiting them does not bear comparison with the continuing popularity of the South Pacific. A few of those cruising the latter eventually cross the equator, usually on their way to the Philippines or the Asian mainland.

Typhoons affect a large area of the Western North Pacific, and because they can occur at different times in different areas it is impossible to suggest a safe period that covers the entire region. Whereas the period with the highest incidence continues to be during the summer months, from July to September, typhoons have occurred in some places, such as the Philippines or the Marshall Islands, at other times of year too. For safety reasons, the period of tropical storms throughout the tropical and subtropical Western North Pacific will be listed as ‘all year’, although this may not be the case in some specific areas.

PN10 • Routes from the West Coast of North America

• | PN11 | California to Hawaii | 273
• | PN12 | Southbound from California | 274
• | PN13 | Northbound from California | 275
• | PN14 | Southbound from Alaska | 276
• | PN15 | Southbound from Pacific Northwest | 277
• | PN16 | Pacific Northwest to Hawaii | 278
• | PN17 | California to Alaska | 279
• | PN18 | Pacific Northwest to Alaska | 280
• | PN19 | Eastbound through the Northwest Passage | 281

The Pacific coast of North America is a more hostile area than its Atlantic counterpart: the weather is harsher, there are fewer all-weather harbours, and the chilly California Current is exactly the opposite to the warm Gulf Stream. The coast, in particular the Pacific Northwest, is therefore a real challenge, not only for sailors setting off from that area, but also for those who, undaunted by its reputation, have decided to visit this beautiful region. The Pacific Northwest does indeed have a well-earned reputation for gales, rain and poor visibility. The prevailing winds are either from NW or less frequently SW. In summer, from May to September, NW winds predominate, although some NE winds also occur. In winter, as well as the prevailing NW winds, SE or S winds, often of gale force, are more common. Further south, the hurricane season is from June to November, when the tropical areas should be avoided. Mexico and Baja California are hit by an average of six hurricanes every year, so this part of Mexico should be avoided during summer and early autumn.

The premier destination for anyone contemplating an offshore cruise from California and the Pacific Northwest is Hawaii. For those who lack the time for a longer cruise to the South Pacific, Hawaii offers the chance of a Polynesian landfall that can be reached during an extended summer vacation. For those who do not wish to return home straight away, Hawaii is an excellent springboard for voyages west, to Micronesia, Japan and the Asian mainland, or more commonly south to Tahiti and the rest of Polynesia.

The major meteorological feature affecting the routes between the mainland and Hawaii is the North Pacific High. In summer it reaches its most NW location in about 38ºN, 150ºW, while in winter it moves SE to approximately 30ºN, 130ºW. The high is very stable between June and August. As this is also the best time for return passages to the mainland, tactics for this passage are discussed in detail in PN32 and 33.

Those who are heading south from California bound for distant destinations, be it Panama, the Galapagos, the Marquesas or Tahiti, are faced with two choices: either to head offshore and sail direct, or follow the coast and cruise in shorter stages. Both alternatives have certain advantages, but as this book deals with offshore routes only, the second alternative will not be dealt with in detail. Some people have successfully combined these two alternatives by cruising along the coast for a while before setting off for their destination. This has the advantage of shaking down both boat and crew while still within a short distance of shoreside facilities.

The advantage of an offshore passage south from California is that the prevailing northerly winds will put the boat on a broad reach or run as soon as the coast has been safely left behind. Because of the dependability of these prevailing winds, it is preferable to wait for a period of settled weather with a long-term forecast of N or NW winds before setting off on a long passage. Regardless of the final destination it is advisable to head offshore immediately after leaving the coast, as the winds tend to be steadier about 100 miles from the mainland.

PN10 Routes from the west coast of North America

• PN11 California to Hawaii

BEST TIME: | April, December |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | Mid-May to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4051, US 51 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P17 Voyages from North America |  |
CRUISI N G GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to the Hawaiian Islands, Hawaiian Islands. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PN11A |  |  |  |  |
San Francisco 37°49.0’N, 122°29.0’W | Francisco W 37°40.0’N, 122°58.0’W |  |  |  | 2022
Los Angeles 33°44.2’N, 118°07.3’W | Angeles W 33°39.0’N, 118°14.5’W | Catalina NW 33°34.3’N, 118°37.0’W Begg N 33°28.0’N, 119°42.0’W |  |  | 2188
San Diego 32°41.2’N, 117°13.8’W | Diego SW 32°37.0’N, 117°15.0’W | Hawaii E 19°46.0’N, 154°55.0’W | Hilo N 19°44.7’N, 155°04.5’W | Hilo 19°43.8’N, 155°05.0’W | 2180
Route PN11B |  |  |  |  |
San Francisco | Francisco W |  |  |  |
Los Angeles | Angeles S | Angeles W Catalina NW |  |  | 2116
|  | Begg N |  |  | 2303
San Diego | Diego SW | Oahu E |  |  |
|  | 21°20.0’N, 157°21.0’W |  |  |
|  | Oahu SE 21°16.0’N, 157°37.0’W | Diamond 21°14.5’N, 157°49.0’W | Honolulu 21°16.7’N, 157°50.8’W | 2302

The route to Hawaii enjoys favourable winds throughout the year, although few boats attempt to make the passage in winter, on account of both the cold and the high proportion of strong winds. On the other hand, summer months carry the risk of tropical storms, August and September being considered the most dangerous months. Although very few of these storms reach as far west as Hawaii, their tracks sometimes swing to the NW and thereby cross the sailing routes from the mainland. Between the two extremes, the threat of winter gales or summer hurricanes, there are some months when sailing conditions along this route can be perfect, the early-summer months fulfilling most of these criteria. Good weather can also be found in April, although an early start is usually associated with colder temperatures.

The winds for the first few hundred miles are N or NW becoming NE and finally E closer to Hawaii. As the great circle route goes too far north it may be better to sail a rhumb line. However, this will depend on the location of the North Pacific High and the extent of the NE trades whose northern limit moves in relation to the high. If it is felt that the course may pass too close to the high, it is better to detour slightly to the south into an area with less pressure than towards the centre of the high.

The high-pressure system normally establishes itself over the North Pacific by late June. Its usual summer location straddles the shortest route to Hawaii and must be crossed to reach the prevailing NE winds that spin off the lower section of the high. It is therefore essential to know the location of the high before departure, and to monitor its movement as the high is rarely static and can change its shape and location. A useful indicator is the 500-millibar charts that show the location of the high as well as that of the isobars, a wider spacing along the southern route indicating lighter winds.

The critical decision is where to cross the lower half of the high, as sailing too close to its centre carries the risk of running out of wind, whereas going too far south will lengthen the distance to be sailed unnecessarily. If the high is south of its usual location and is weakening, there is a good chance of finding stronger winds south of the high. If the high is further north and strengthening, the chance of having favourable winds along the shortest route is highest. A further matter to be kept in mind if sailing south of the high is the risk of being overtaken by a hurricane forming off the coast of Mexico, especially in the high-risk months of August and September.

When making landfall, because of increased wind strengths in the channels separating the Hawaiian Islands, it is usually better to gain the lee of the islands rather than approach them from windward. Wind conditions in the channels between the islands can be violent, making easterly passages between the islands often almost impossible. Better conditions may be encountered at night. The best landfall in Hawaii for boats arriving from the continent is Hilo on Big Island, as it is to windward of all other ports in the archipelago and therefore a perfect starting point for a cruise among the islands. Hilo’s main disadvantage is the limited range of facilities for visiting boats, both docking and repair. Much better services will be found further west, especially in Honolulu.

• PN12 Southbound from California

BEST TIME: | December to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | Mid-May to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4051, US 51 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P22 Voyages from North America
CRUISING GUIDES: | US Pacific Coast, Western Coast of Mexico, Pacific Mexico, Sea of Cortez, Mexico Boating Guide.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PN12A |  |  |  |  |
San Francisco 37°49.0’N, 122°29.0’W Los Angeles 33°44.2’N, 118°07.3’W | Francisco SW 37°40.5’N, 122°44.0’W Angeles S 33°43.3’N, 118°11.0’W | Angeles SW 33°19.0’N, 118°06.0’W |  |  |
San Diego 32°41.2’N, 117°13.8’W | Diego SW 32°37.0’N, 117°15.0’W | Coronado 32°26.7’N, 117°19.5’W Ensenada SW 31°45.5’N, 116°46.5’W | Ensenada NW 31°55.0’N, 116°51.0’W | Ensenada 31°50.5’N, 116°37.5’W |   478/175/67
|  | Baja NW |  |  |
|  | 28°18.0’N, 116°09.0’W |  |  |
|  | Baja W | Baja SW | Cabo San Lucas | 1160/857/750
|  | 24°50.0’N, 112°35.0’W | 22°50.5’N, 110°05.0’W | 22°52.9’N, 109°54.3’W |
Route PN12B |  |  |  |  |
San Francisco Los Angeles | Francisco SW Angeles S | Angeles SW |  |  |
San Diego | Diego SW | Guadelupe NW |  |  |
|  | 29°19.5’N, 118°9.5’W Revillagigedo N 19°29.0’N, 110°48.0’W |  |  |
|  | [Revillagigedo E] | Revillagigedo SE | Revillagigedo | 1328/1060/920
|  | 18°46.0’N, 110°53.0’W Revillagigedo SE 18°42.5’N, 110°55.5’W Coiba 7°05.0’N, 81°50.0’W Punta Mala 7°16.0’N, 79°50.0’W Bona 8°34.0’N, 79°34.0’W Panama SW 8°48.0’N, 79°30.0’W | 18°42.5’N, 110°55.5’W | 18°42.5’N, 110°56.8’W |
|  | Panama S | Flamenco | Balboa | 3375/3072/2983
|  | 8°51.7’N, 79°30.0’W | 8°54.0’N, 79°31.8’W | 8°56.5’N, 79°33.8’W |

A passage to Mexico from ports in Southern California can be undertaken at any time during the winter months, although most boats head south in November as soon as the hurricane season has come to an end. Southbound boats will find favourable conditions throughout the winter months, when the prevailing winds off the Mexican coast are northerly. There is a favourable current along the coast of Mexico, but a contrary current further south along the coast of Central America. Boats sailing nonstop along this route should stay at least 100 miles off the coast to avoid the influence of land breezes and also the many ships that ply the coast closer inshore.

Route PN12A outlines a voyage as far as Baja California, with two suggested landfalls lying conveniently close to the direct route: Ensenada and Cabo San Lucas. From the latter the offshore route PN12B continues parallel to the coast of Mexico and Central America. A possible stop on this long offshore route is the islands of Revillagigedo, from where the route turns SE and enters the Gulf of Panama at Punta Mala. Those who intend to transit the Panama Canal may be able to find a place at Flamenco Marina and complete the necessary formalities there. The alternative is nearby Marina La Playita or Balboa Yacht Club. See here for instructions concerning the Panama Canal.

The other alternative, favoured by many, is to sail the entire distance in easy stages by calling at the different ports en route. If this option is chosen, more attention should be paid to local weather conditions, particularly during the winter months, January to March, when very strong winds occur in the gulfs of Tehuantepec and Papagayo. These are described in detail in PN20. The inshore route is not recommended during the summer, when there is a risk of hurricanes in the area and the winds are less consistent, with long periods of calms. More details on destinations in Central America are given in route PN24.

• PN13 Northbound from California

BEST TIME: | Mid-June to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4050, US 520 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | US Pacific Coast, Exploring the Pacific Coast San Diego to Seattle, Exploring South British Columbia, San Juan Islands.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
San Francisco 37°49.0’N, 122°29.0’W | Francisco NW 37°48.0’N, 122°35.0’W | Reyes 37°58.5’N, 123°04.5’W Punta Arena 38°54.0’N, 123°55.0’W Mendocino 40°28.0’N, 124°58.0’W |  |  |
|  | Fuca SW | Fuca N | Victoria | 748
|  | 48°18.0’N, 125°07.0’W | 48°31.3’N, 124°43.0’W | 48°25.0’N, 123 °24.0’W |

Northbound offshore passages from California are difficult to plan as it is quite rare that one can be certain of favourable winds. Therefore most people plan their cruise to include as many coastal stops as possible. In this way it is possible to take advantage of early-morning breezes. One suggestion for an easier passage north is to leave in April with a southerly gale. At this time of year they are usually milder than those of the winter months. Although it may be tempting to ride one of these storms, one should be very careful when running along the coast before such a storm as most ports are on a dangerous lee shore.

The most benign conditions for a northbound passage will be encountered during the late-summer months, when the prevailing winds may still be northerly but are usually lighter. The weather is also at its warmest, although this means that the chances of fog are much higher. The one major decision to be taken is whether to sail an offshore route, where weather conditions are more stable but where one may be too far out to seek shelter if the weather deteriorates, or to follow an inshore route that offers the possibility of listening to local weather forecasts and diverting into one of the many well-sheltered ports should the weather change for the worse. One aspect to be borne in mind on either route, but especially on the inshore option, is the large amount of shipping, which can be a serious hazard in poor visibility. If following the coast closely, great care must be paid not only to the weather but also to the difficulty of crossing river bars or entering some of the harbours in onshore winds. The coast of Northern California is replete with beautiful harbours providing shelter from the prevailing winds.

North of California, both in winter and summer, NW winds predominate along the coast, which makes a direct offshore passage very difficult. There are various ways of dealing with these headwinds and the most radical suggestion is that the coast should be left immediately on a route heading offshore for about 200 miles before it turns north. The most favourable tack should then be taken until the latitude of the port of destination is reached. A new course can then be set to approach the coast on the tack that would put the boat to windward of the destination. Such a radical solution need not be taken at the height of summer when winds are usually lighter. This should present no great problem if one is prepared to motor, and indeed, for those who are not prepared to take the longer offshore route in the hope of finding better sailing conditions, following an inshore route has definite advantages.

Those who decide to sail the offshore alternative, from Reyes Point should set an initial course that stays well offshore. Whether a relatively direct route can be sailed will depend entirely on the windward performance of the boat. The recommended landfall is off Cape Flattery, in the approaches to the Juan de Fuca Strait.

Extreme caution is advisable on arrival because of heavy shipping and strong currents. Shipping separation zones are in operation, with the southern lane being used by arriving ships and the northern lane reserved for outgoing traffic. The lanes diverge at designated points so as to allow ships to turn either north towards Vancouver or south towards Seattle. To complicate matters, there is often a large number of fishing boats around the Swiftsure Bank, east of the entrance to the strait. Traffic in the area is controlled by Tofino Radio. Incoming vessels are requested to report when due south of Amphitrite Point.

• PN14 Southbound from Alaska

BEST TIME: | Mid-June to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | Mid-May to November |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4050, US 531 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Exploring North British Columbia, San Juan Islands. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PN14A |  |  |  |  |
Kodiak 57°47.4’N, 152°23.0’W | Kodiak E 57°33.0’N, 151°46.0’W |  |  |  |
Dutch Harbor | Unalaska N | Unalaska NE | Sutil N | Vancouver X | 1153/1619
53°53.8’N, 166°30.5’W | 54°03.0’N, 166°23.0’W | 53°38.0’N, 166°07.0’W | 50°55.0’N, 128°05.0’W | 49°16.5’N, 123°08.2’W |
|  | Fuca NW | Fuca N | Victoria | 1185/1638
|  | 48°36.0’N, 125°17.0’W | 48°31.3’N, 124°43.0’W | 48°25.0’N, 123°24.0’W |
Route PN14B |  |  |  |  |
Sitka 57°03.0’N, 135°23.7’W | Sitka SW 56°50.0’N, 135°55.0’W | Dixon W 54°25.0’N, 134°30.0’W Scott NW 50°55.0’N, 128°57.5’W | Sutil N | Vancouver X | 702
|  | Fuca NW | Fuca N | Victoria | 740
Route PN14C |  |  |  |  |
Sitka Kodiak | Sitka SW Kodiak E |  |  |  |
Dutch Harbor | Unalaska N | Unalaska NE |  |  |
|  | Oahu W 21°35.00’N, 158°20.0’ | Oahu SW 21°16.5’N, 158°07.5’ | Honolulu 21°16.7’N, 157°50.8’W | 2480/2280/2120
|  | Hawaii NE 19°55.8’N, 155°00.4’W | Hilo N 19°44.7’N, 154°54.0’W | Hilo 19 °43.8’N, 155°05.0’W | 2420/2260/2180

The winds in the Gulf of Alaska are variable in direction during the summer months, with a slight predominance of westerly winds. Later in the season, SE winds are not uncommon, making eastbound passages across the Gulf difficult. Also contrary is the Aleutian Current, which sets westward across the Gulf. Fog can be another hazard during the crossing, but gales are rare in summer. Prince Rupert Harbour, where entry formalities into Canada can be completed, is reached through the Dixon Strait, between Prince of Wales and Graham Islands.

Because the sailing season in Alaska is brief, most people are in a hurry when the time comes to move south. Although a faster passage can be made on an offshore route, few sailors choose to miss the pristine beauty of the inshore route that threads its way past countless islets and inlets along British Columbia’s fragmented coast. A recommended alternative is to cruise the area in reverse order by sailing from British Columbia to Alaska in short stages, crossing the Gulf of Alaska in early summer and sailing back to British Columbia on an offshore route at the end of the cruising season. The sailing season is quite short and lasts from May to late August. In July, the North Pacific High may reach as far as the Prince William Sound, ensuring light winds and pleasant weather.

Boats leaving from Kodiak or Dutch Harbor (PN14A) may set a direct course for Fuca NW to reach Victoria by going south of Vancouver Island through the Juan de Fuca Strait. The alternative is to approach Vancouver Island through the Queen Charlotte Sound by making landfall north of Cape Sutil and continue through the Goletas Channel. Boats sailing from Sitka (PN14B) have the option of sailing south through the scenic Inside Passage, whereas those with less time on their hands may prefer to sail the faster offshore route. Regardless of their destination in Hawaii, those sailing route PN14C should set a course that takes into account the location of the Pacific High.

• PN15 Southbound from Pacific Northwest

BEST TIME: | July to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4050, US 520 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | US Pacific Coast, Exploring the Pacific Coast San Diego to Seattle, Cruising Guide to Central and Southern California.
waypoints: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Victoria 48°25.0’N, 123°24.0’W | Fuca N 48°31.3’N, 124°43.0’W | Fuca SW 48°18.0’N, 125°07.0’W Mendocino 40°28.0’N, 124°58.0’W Punta Arena 38°54.0’N, 123°55.0’W |  |  |
|  | Reyes 37°58.5’N, 123°04.5’W | Francisco NW 37°48.0’N, 122°35.0’W | San Francisco 37°49.0’N, 122°29.0’W | 748
|  | Sur 36°19.0’N, 122°17.0’W | Barbara NW 34°25.3’N, 120°51.5’W | Los Angeles 33°42.2’N, 118°07.3’W | 1128
|  | Nicolas SW 32°59.5’N, 119°52.8’W | Diego SW 32°37.0’N, 117°15.0’W | San Diego 32°41.2’N, 117°13.8’W | 1194

Winds along this route are almost always favourable and the south-setting California Current provides an added bonus. The offshore route is to be preferred for most southbound passages and, once chosen, one should stay at least 100 miles off the coast. Because of the pressure gradient between the offshore high and the continental low-pressure system, winds tend to be stronger and seas higher more than 60 miles from land than closer inshore. There is much coastwise traffic and fishing activity so a good tactic is to wait for the onset of a NW wind and then stay 40 to 60 miles offshore. At that distance one can always pick up at least one VHF weather station, and at the first indication of strong southerlies, head for the nearest port to wait until they have gone. Further offshore there is less traffic but the winds are generally 10 knots higher and there may not be time to reach a safe port before the wind shifts to a southerly.

Having reached the open ocean through the Juan de Fuca Strait, the offshore route from Cape Flattery stays well to seaward of the coastline as far as Cape Mendocino. Boats bound for San Francisco will make landfall off Reyes Point, from where the Bonita Channel leads into San Francisco Bay. Directions for boats bound for destinations in the Los Angeles area are similar as far as Cape Mendocino, from where the course is altered for Point Sur and, finally, the entrance into the Santa Barbara Channel off Point Conception. Occasionally referred to as the Cape Horn of North America, the strong winds that blow here frequently create rough seas, which should be borne in mind if making landfall during a NW gale. Those who continue to San Diego should alter their course to pass SW of San Nicolas Island, from where the route swings east to pass south of San Clemente in the approaches to San Diego. For boats heading further south for Baja California or beyond, San Diego is not only the best point of departure, but also an excellent place to prepare for southbound passages.

Because of the stronger winds and bigger swell if sailing offshore, some people prefer the inshore route. This is an attractive alternative when sailing in the other direction, but is less attractive for those who are southbound and determined to cover the distance in the shortest time possible. Because several harbours have bars and are difficult or dangerous to enter when there is a heavy swell, extreme caution is needed if sailing the inshore route. Another hazard along this coast is fog, which often reduces visibility drastically and can be quite dangerous because of the high amount of shipping.

• PN16 Pacific Northwest to Hawaii

BEST TIME: | May to June |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | Mid-May to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4050, US 520 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P17 Voyages from North America |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to the Hawaiian Islands, Hawaiian Islands. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Victoria | Fuca N | Fuca SW |  |  |
48°25.0’N, 123°24.0’W | 48°31.3’N, 124°43.0’W | 48°18.0’N, 125°07.0’W |  |  |
|  | Hawaii NE 19°55.8’N, 155°00.4’W Oahu E 21°20.0’N, 157°21.0’W | Hilo N 19°46.0’N, 154°55.0’W | Hilo 19°43.8’N, 155°05.0’W | 2317
|  | Oahu SE 21°16.0’N, 157°37.0’W | Diamond 21°14.5’N, 157°49.0’W | Honolulu 21°16.7’N, 157°50.8’W | 2339

Early passages may encounter strong winds as during March the North Pacific is still very volatile with depressions and associated cold fronts passing through every few days. In April and May there tend to be fewer southerly gales and longer periods of NW winds. A good plan for yachts leaving from British Columbia or the Pacific Northwest is to watch the weather closely. The passage of a front will produce gale force southerly winds to be followed usually by clear skies as the wind swings to the NW where it will stay for a few hours, or if one is lucky, a few days.

Better weather conditions prevail throughout the summer months, but in order to avoid the hurricane season, the passage should be planned for late spring or early summer. Although the route crosses an area where tropical cyclones have occurred in the past, the danger of encountering such a storm is fairly remote. However, weather forecasts should be listened to regularly during the summer to avoid any tropical storms that may be heading that way. If there is any sign of a developing hurricane, a route in higher latitudes should be sailed. At all other times, in order to avoid westerly winds or straying into the North Pacific High at the beginning of the voyage, setting a direct course to Hawaii on departure is not recommended. Better conditions will be found by taking a southerly course, which will benefit both from northerly winds and the favourable current. It is generally recommended that the course should not be altered for Hawaii until the latitude of San Francisco is reached. Although a great circle route can be sailed to Hawaii from about 40ºN, it is usually better to stay slightly south of the rhumb line. The NE trades will be met somewhere between latitudes 28º and 30ºN, from where the winds should remain favourable all the way to Hawaii.

Wind conditions in the channels between the islands can be violent so great caution should be exercised when making landfall. Better conditions may be encountered at night when the wind may get lighter. For boats arriving from the NE the most convenient port of entry is Hilo on Hawaii Island, commonly referred to as Big Island. Because facilities in Hilo are limited, those in need of better services may prefer to continue on an offshore route and make landfall off Oahu Island and proceed to Honolulu.

• PN17 California to Alaska

BEST TIME: | Late June to early August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4050, US 520 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P34a Voyages from the US West Coast |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | US Pacific Coast, Exploring Southeast Alaska, North to Alaska, Aleutian Islands and the Alaska Peninsula.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PN17A |  |  |  |  |
San Diego 32 °41.2’N, 117°13.8’W | Diego SW 32°37.0’N, 117°15.0’W | Nicolas SW 32°59.5’N, 119°52.8’W |  |  | 2129/2483
Los Angeles X 33°42.2’N, 118°07.3’W | Barbara NW 34°25.3’N, 120°51.5’W | Sur 36°19.0’N, 122°17.0’W |  |  | 2063/2420
San Francisco 37°49.0’N, 122°29.0’W | Francisco NW 37°48.0’N, 122°35.0’W | Reyes 37°58.5’N, 123°04.5’W |  |  | 1685/2054
|  | Kodiak E | Kodiak NE | Kodiak |
|  | 57°33.0’N, 151°46.0’W | 57°50.5’N, 152°17.0’W | 57°47.4’N, 152°23.0’W |
|  | Unalaska E | Unalaska NE | Dutch Harbor |
|  | 53°55.0’N, 166°07.0’W | 53°56.0’N, 166°00.0’W | 53°53.8’N, 166°30.5’W |
Route PN17B |  |  |  |  |
San Diego | Diego SW | Nicolas SW |  |  | 1932
Los Angeles X | Barbara NW | Sur |  |  | 1868
San Francisco | Francisco NW | Reyes |  |  | 1487
|  | California N | Sitka SW | Sitka |
|  | 40°18.0’N, 131°49.0’W | 56°50.0’N, 135°55.0’W | 57°03.0’N, 135°23.7’W |

There are three basic options for this long voyage and each one has some disadvantages. Trying to sail along the coast, with or without stopping, is not going to be easy because of contrary winds, heavy shipping, river bars and other difficulties. The recommended tactic of using Hawaii as an intermediate stop adds a lot of miles to what is already a long passage. This leaves only one other option and that is a direct, nonstop offshore route. Because of the Pacific High, which dictates weather conditions throughout the region, the logical solution is to sail at the best angle possible to the prevailing NW winds to make sufficient westing and, as NE winds are found further offshore, sail a course that passes to the west of the high. The other alternative is to leave with full tanks and motor through the high and the light winds that will be encountered before reaching the area of prevailing westerlies of higher latitudes. Staying east of the high may not be feasible if one is determined to sail but, depending on existing conditions, may be attempted in a boat that can make good progress under power. A good reserve of fuel should be carried as light winds and calms, as well as fog, are common in Alaskan waters in summertime.

Another major decision is whether to make landfall in an easterly port such as Sitka or one of the western ports of Kodiak or Dutch Harbor. Those who intend to cruise as much as possible of the Gulf of Alaska during one summer season should choose the latter. There are two major destinations in Western Alaska and each has its attractions. Kodiak is nearer and has the better facilities, whereas Dutch Harbor probably makes a better starting point for a summer cruise. Boats bound for Kodiak will make landfall east of Kodiak Island. The east coast is then followed to the approaches into Kodiak. This well-protected harbour is reached from NE through a dredged channel. The old town is located on the NW shore of the island of the same name. Boats bound for Dutch Harbor will make landfall off Unalaska Island and continue through the Unalga Pass into Unalaska Bay and the busy fishing port of Dutch Harbor. The timing of going through the pass should take into account the strong tides.

Those who are short of time may find enough to satisfy their needs in the area close to Sitka. Because of the relatively short summer season, those who wish to enjoy an entire season in Alaska often sail north in late summer, spend the winter in a convenient northern port and are ready to continue to Alaska in late spring the following year. The passage to Sitka can be made entirely offshore (route PN18B) or through the sheltered Inside Passage. The latter option has the advantage that the voyage north can be undertaken earlier in the season.

• PN18 Pacific Northwest to Alaska

BEST TIME: | Mid-June to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4050, US 531 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P34a Voyages from the US West Coast |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Exploring Southeast Alaska, North to Alaska, Aleutian Islands and the Alaska Peninsula. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PN18A |  |  |  |  |
Victoria | Fuca N | Fuca NW |  |  |
48°25.0’N, 123°24.0’W | 48°31.3’N, 124°43.0’W | 48°36.0’N, 125°17.0’W |  |  |
|  | Kodiak E 57°33.0’N, 151 °46.0’W | Kodiak NE 57°50.05’N, 152°17.0’W | Kodiak 57°47.4’N, 152 °23.0’W | 1190
|  | Unalaska E 53°55.0’N, 166°07.0’W | Unalaska NE 53°56.0’N, 166°00.0’W | Dutch Harbor 53°53.8’N, 166°30.5’W | 1670
Route PN18B |  |  |  |  |
Vancouver X 49°16.5’N, 123°8.2’W | Sutil N 50°55.0’N, 128°5.0’W | Dixon W 54°25.0’N, 134°30.0’W |  |  |
|  | Scott NW | Sitka SW | Sitka | 740
|  | 50°55.0’N, 128°57.5’W | 56°50.0’N, 135°55.0’W | 57°03.0’N, 135°23.7’W |
|  | Kodiak E | Kodiak NE | Kodiak | 1153
|  | Unalaska E | Unalaska NE | Dutch Harbor | 1619

Although most sailors choose to take the Inside Passage, which follows the scenic route through the sheltered waters off the coast of British Columbia, there are certain advantages in going offshore, mainly to gain time. As the recommended route passes through an area of prevailing westerly winds, boats that go reasonably well to windward will be at a distinct advantage. To benefit from the short Alaskan season, which extends from early June to the middle of August, passages should be planned for this period, although the chances of favourable SE winds are higher later in the summer. Although tropical storms rarely affect this area, occasionally typhoons generated in the Western North Pacific have recurved NE and reached Alaska, as happened in 1984 when Typhoon Holly brought 100-knot winds to Seward.

Boats leaving from Seattle or ports in British Columbia will reach the open sea through the Juan de Fuca Strait and join the offshore route off Cape Flattery. The alternative is to stay in the sheltered waters east of Vancouver Island and reach the open sea at Cape Scott. From either place, a direct course will then be sailed to either Kodiak or Dutch Harbor. Although the latter is further west, for those who have the time, Dutch Harbor makes a better starting point for a summer cruise in Alaskan waters.

Boats bound for Eastern Alaska can continue north through the Inside Passage, or go offshore at Cape Scott, north of Vancouver Island.

• PN19 Eastbound through the Northwest Passage

BEST TIME: | June to August |  |  |  |
TROPIC AL STOR MS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4050, US 50 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P34 Voyages to Alaska and the Northwest Passage |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Arctic and Northern Waters, Aleutian Islands and the Alaska Peninsula. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Dutch Harbor 53°53.8’N, 166°30.5’W | Unalaska N 54°03.0’N, 166°23.0’W | Unimak W 54°29.0’N, 165°30.5’W Nunivak W 60°16.0’N, 168°25.0’W Lawrence E 63°17.0’N, 168°8.0’W Diomede E 65°49.0’N, 168°36.0’W Point Hope 68°21.0’N, 167°21.0’W Lisburne 68°56.0’N, 166°38.0’W |  |  |
|  | Barrow NW |  | Barrow | 1198
|  | 71°30.0’N, 157°00.0’W |  | 71 °18.0’N, 156°44.2’W |

The Northwest Passage is a sea route connecting the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans that winds its way north of Alaska and through the islands of the Canadian Arctic Archipelago. As a result of climate change, in recent years the Northwest Passage has been open to navigation for a limited time during summer and early autumn.

In the history of maritime exploration no other part of the world has proved to be more difficult and has taken longer to conquer than the Northwest Passage. In the last five centuries there has been a succession of failed attempts to discover a way through, and it was only early in the last century that the Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen finally managed to complete an east to west transit in the sloop Gjøa in 1906. A number of specially reinforced ships have made the transit in subsequent years, but it was only in August 2007 that the Northwest Passage became open to ships without the need of an icebreaker. Although the passage is never entirely free of ice, cruising boats are currently completing the transit on a regular basis.

Centuries of failed expeditions have resulted in a well-defined strategy for a transit of the Northwest Passage, but one that is still entirely at the mercy of ice conditions. During the short summer season, the sea ice, which has formed over the long winter, as well as the old ice left from previous winters, melts to a greater or lesser extent. The ice usually retreats from west to east (Pacific to Atlantic), which means that in most years the eastern sector of the Northwest Passage is the last to become free of ice. The strategy for a west to east passage is to arrive in early summer in a suitable place, such as Dutch Harbor, and be prepared to wait until the ice has retreated to such an extent that a transit of the central section of the Northwest Passage may be safely attempted. Boats that have left from a US port do not need to complete any formalities. Once Canadian waters are reached, it is possible to clear into Canada at any settlement that has a police station. At the time of writing, formalities are quite simple. but with the increase in traffic, in order to protect the environment and Inuit communities, the Canadian government is considering imposing certain restrictions on the movement all vessels, including pleasure craft.

The Canadian ice service publish daily detailed charts of ice conditions for the entire passage and are the best aid in deciding when it is safe to proceed (https://www.canada.ca/en/environment-climate-change/services/ice-forecasts-observations/latest-conditions.html).

No waypoints have been listed beyond Barrow, as navigation is mostly coastal. Most of the recent eastbound transits have been completed along the following route: Bering Strait, Chukchi Sea, Beaufort Sea, Amundsen Gulf, Coronation Gulf, Queen Maud Gulf, Franklin Strait, Bellot Strait, Regent Inlet, Lancaster Sound. Having arrived in the Davis Strait, the passage can continue nonstop to Nuuk, the capital and main port of Greenland. The alternative is to cross Davis Strait and make landfall further north on Greenland’s western coast and enjoy this scenic area by cruising south in easy stages. A recommended landfall is at Disko Bay, the most spectacular site in the whole of Greenland. The vista is dominated by Kujalleq Glacier, one of the most active glaciers in the world. A stream of icebergs is constantly calving from it, and it is believed that the one that sunk the Titanic also broke off from here. Sailing south is Sisimiut, Greenland’s second largest town, which has good repair and haulout facilities and it is possible to make arrangements to leave the boat here between seasons. The route continues to Nuuk; the approaches are well marked and, although visiting yachts are always welcome, docking facilities are disappointing. Visiting boats normally tie up to a fishing boat in the inner harbour, where formalities are also completed. Repair facilities are basic but provisioning is good.

Weather conditions for an eastbound transit are quite favourable on account of the prevailing NW winds and east-setting current. However, light winds and calms are common in summer, when the solution is to proceed under power. It is essential to be self-sufficient in every respect and, ideally, have an autonomy under power of at least 1000 miles, as fuel depots are far apart and the availability of fuel is not guaranteed. Provisioning in the settlements is generally quite good but repair facilities are extremely limited. The guide Arctic and Northern Waters is an excellent source for practical information. It also lists the detailed NOAA and Canadian charts for the entire route. In recent years, the main hurdle to overcome has been Peel Sound, at the eastern end of the Northwest Passage, a potential choke-point that can be entirely blocked by ice. The solution is to bypass it by using the shortcut provided by Bellot Strait, which is usually free of ice in late summer.

A late arrival in the North Atlantic may result in unfavourable conditions for the continuation of the voyage to either the US east coast or Europe. The solution is to spend the coming winter either in Greenland or at St John’s in Newfoundland. Refer to routes AN172 or AN174 for the continuation of the voyage in the North Atlantic.

PN20 • Pacific Routes from Central America and Mexico

• | PN21 | Panama to Central America and Mexico | 284
• | PN22 | Mexico and Central America to Panama | 285
• | PN23 | Panama, Central America and Mexico to Hawaii | 286
• | PN24 | Panama, Central America and Mexico to California and Pacific Northwest | 287
• | PN25 | Panama, Central America and Mexico to Micronesia | 289

For boats that have transited the Panama Canal there is a rather limited choice of routes heading out into the Pacific. Basically, there are two options: either to stay in the North Pacific, where there is a narrow range of initial destinations, or to head towards the South Pacific, where the choices multiply constantly as one moves west. Similarly a considerable proportion of offshore routes from Central America is also southbound and transequatorial.

Panama is a good starting point for sailing to ports on the west coast of Central America, and as the distances involved are relatively short, even if unfavourable conditions are encountered at least they do not have to be endured for too long. Because the hurricane season affects most of this area between mid-May and mid-November, sailing to Mexico or California during those months should be avoided. Therefore, if heading north from Panama it is best to plan to transit the Canal between November and April, so as to avoid the danger of being caught by a hurricane off the coast of Central America. An interesting stop before sailing out of the Gulf of Panama is the Las Perlas Islands, which have some excellent anchorages. They belong to Panama and one is not allowed to stop there after having cleared out of Panama without having obtained a cruising permit.

For boats heading north from Panama, local conditions along the Central American coast vary very much with the topography of the land. Two local weather phenomena, which particularly affect the inshore routes, are the very strong winds that take their name from the gulfs where they occur, Papagayo and Tehuantepec. The papagayos are caused by an intensification of the NE trade winds on the Caribbean side of the isthmus. The winds reach the Pacific through a gap in the cordillera where they blow with great force. Further north, the tehuantepecers are caused by a build-up of atmospheric pressure over the Gulf of Mexico, the resulting winds blowing over the continental divide and being felt most strongly in the Gulf of Tehuantepec. Both winds reach gale force 8 and even 9, and are very difficult to predict locally. However, by following weather forecasts for the Gulf of Mexico and Caribbean area it is usually possible to predict when changes in weather conditions on the Atlantic side of Central America or Mexico will affect its Pacific shores. The worst period is from October to April, with the highest frequency between the end of November and the end of January. The effect of these winds can be felt as far as 150 miles offshore.

Sailing directly from Panama to the west coast of North America is a difficult undertaking. An alternative preferred by many as the best way to reach California, and especially ports further north, is to sail first to Hawaii.

The political uncertainty in some Central American countries makes it advisable to assess the latest safety situation before stopping in certain ports.

PN20 Pacific routes from Central America and Mexico

• PN21 Panama to Central America and Mexico

BEST TIME: | December to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | Mid-May to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4051, US 51 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Costa Rica, Western Coast of Mexico, Mexico Boating Guide, Sea of Cortez. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Balboa 8°56.5’N, 79°33.8’W | Panama S 8°51.7’N, 79°30.0’W | Bona 8°34.0’N, 79°34.0’W Punta Mala 7°16.0’N, 79°50.0’W Coiba 7°05.0’N, 81°50.0’W |  |  |
|  | Mexico SW |  |  |
|  | 12°58.0’N, 97°07.0’W |  |  |
|  | Manzanillo SW 19°00.0’N, 104°23.0’W Manzanillo NW 19°04.0’N, 104°36.0’W | Manzanillo W 19°03.5’N, 104°23.0’W | Manzanillo 19°03.7’N, 104°18.7’W | 1754
|  | Vallarta W 20°37.0’N, 106°10.0’W | Vallarta SE 20°38.0’N, 105°16.5’W San Lucas SE 22°52.5’N, 109°53.5’W | Puerto Vallarta 20°39.0’N, 105°15.0’W Cabo San Lucas 22 °52.9’N, 109 °54.3’W | 1937 2133

Northbound passages to southern ports on the Pacific coast of Central America will experience N and NE winds during the winter months. Those winds would make passages to northern destinations more challenging. While an inshore route may be the answer for boats bound for the more southern ports in Central America, a direct offshore passage is more logical for anyone in a hurry to reach Mexico. Such a direct passage should be sailed far enough offshore to avoid the influence of land and localised weather patterns associated with certain areas. Those who are not keen on a long offshore voyage may prefer to treat this difficult route as a coast-hopping exercise. Stops can be made in all Central American countries as there are several attractive cruising areas on the way.

One of the most attractive stops is Golfito, in Costa Rica. In Nicaragua the ports of Corinto and San Juan del Sur have attracted mixed comments, while the Honduran port of San Lorenzo has been recommended as a convenient emergency stop. In El Salvador a good place to stop is Acajutla, which is one of El Salvador’s official ports of entry, the other being Cutuco. On entering the Gulf of Fonseca, the Salvadoran Coast Guard should be contacted on channel 16. Stopping at one of the ports on the Pacific coast of Guatemala has little attraction, but beyond that stretches the long coast of Mexico, its main cruising attraction being located in its northern part – Baja California and the Sea of Cortez.

Detailed directions for this inshore route, which consists mostly of coastal cruising, are beyond the scope of this book. However, attention must be drawn to the two areas where the weather can seriously affect the inshore route. These are the gulfs of Tehuantepec and Papagayo, where the strong local winds described in the introduction to this section are a regular feature of the winter months. Both north and southbound inshore passages should attempt to transit the Gulf of Tehuantepec at the change of seasons, either in early May or early in November. January and February are the months to avoid because of the high frequency of these winds. Because the strong winds in the Gulf of Tehuantepec are caused by the trade winds building up the pressure on the opposite side of Mexico, according to local wisdom, you should monitor the pressure in the Gulf of Campeche. If the pressure there is high, or a high-pressure system is approaching, strong winds can be expected at Tehuantepec, and the same rules also apply to Papagayo. Usually the strongest winds will be experienced east of Salina Cruz, which will generate rough seas offshore. This is why it is strongly recommended to stay as close to the shore as possible, where the seas will be calm and it is easier to deal with just the strength of the wind.

• PN22 Mexico and Central America to Panama

BEST TIME: | December to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | Mid-May to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4051, US 51 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P22 Voyages from North America |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Panama Cruising Guide. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PN22A |  |  |  |  |
Cabo San Lucas 22°52.9’N, 109°54.3’W | San Lucas SE 22°52.5’N, 109°53.5’W |  |  |  | 2133
Puerto Vallarta 20°39.0’N, 105°15.0’W | Vallarta SE 20°38.0’N, 105°16.5’W | Vallarta SW 20°28.0’N, 105°51.0’W |  |  | 1937
Manzanillo 19°03.7’N, 104°18.7’W | Manzanillo W 19°03.5’N, 104°23.0’W | Manzanillo SW 19°00.0’N, 104°23.0’W |  |  | 1754
|  | Mexico SW |  |  |
|  | 12°58.0’N, 97°07.0’W Coiba 7°05.0’N, 81°50.0’W Punta Mala 7°21.0’N, 79°51.5’W |  |  |
|  | Bona 8°34.0’N, 79°34.0’W | Panama S 8°51.7’N, 79°30.0’W | Balboa 8°56.5’N, 79°33.8’W |
Route PN22B |  |  |  |  |
Golfito 8°37.00’N, 83°11.0’W | Golfito S 8°22.00’N, 83°13.5’W | Coiba Punta Mala |  |  |
|  | Bona | Panama S | Balboa | 346

Weather conditions along this route are quite favourable during the recommended time, as the prevailing winds are mostly northerly. Occasionally the situation can be very different, when gale force winds make the crossing of the gulfs of Tehuantepec and Papagayo a daunting experience. Usually the strongest winds will be experienced east of Salina Cruz, which will generate rough seas offshore. This is why it is strongly recommended to stay as close to the shore as safely possible, where the seas will be calm and you should find it easier to deal with just the strength of the wind.

Stopping at one of the ports on the Pacific coast of Guatemala has little attraction, whereas in El Salvador a good place to stop is Acajutla, which is one of El Salvador’s official ports of entry, the other being Cutuco. The Honduran port of San Lorenzo has been recommended as an emergency stop, while in Nicaragua the ports of Corinto and San Juan del Sur have attracted mixed comments. One of the most attractive stops on the Costa Rica coast is Golfito.

The alternative to the inshore route is to sail well off the coast thereby avoiding the effect of the local strong winds described earlier. This makes sense, especially if leaving from Northern Mexico, so that the entire passage is made well off the coast and the Gulf of Tehuantepec is passed well offshore. Whether starting from Cabo San Lucas or one of the ports on the mainland, the offshore routes join up at Mexico SW and stay well off the coast as far as the entrance into the Gulf of Panama. Those who have sailed the inshore route to Golfito may join route PN22B from there for the rest of the passage to Panama.

The Gulf of Panama is entered at Cabo Mala, with the nearest place to stop being Flamenco Marina. Even if there are no places available, arriving boats may stop briefly to complete entry formalities. The alternative is the nearby La Playita Marina, or to pick up a swing mooring at the Balboa Yacht Club. Directions for transiting the Panama Canal are given here.

• PN23 Panama, Central America and Mexico to Hawaii

BEST TIME: | December to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | Mid-May to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4051, US 51 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P16 Voyages from Panama and Central America |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Hawaiian Islands, Cruising Guide to the Hawaiian Islands. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PN23A |  |  |  |  |
Balboa 8°56.5’N, 79 °33.8’W | Panama S 8°51.7’N, 79°30.0’W | Punta Mala 7°16.0’N, 79°50.0’W Coiba 7°05.0’N, 81°50.0’W |  |  |
Golfito 8°37.0’N, 83°11.0’W | Golfito S 8°22.0’N, 83°13.5’W | [Isla del Coco] 5°32.0’N, 86°58.0’W [Clipperton] 10°18.0’N, 109°11.0’W |  |  |
|  | Hawaii E | Hilo N | Hilo | 4537/4226
|  | 19°46.0’N, 154°55.0’W | 19°46.0’N, 154°55.0’W | 19 °43.8’N, 155°05.0’W |
|  | Hawaii S | Oahu S | Honolulu | 4767/4457
|  | 18°46.0’N, 155°41.0’W | 21°15.1’N, 157°51.0’W | 21°16.7’N, 157°50.8’W |
Route PN23B |  |  |  |  |
Cabo San Lucas 22°52.9’N, 109°54.3’W | San Lucas SE 22°52.5’N, 109°53.5’W | Baja SW 22°50.5’N, 110°5.0’W |  |  |
Revillagigedo | Revillagigedo SW | Hawaii E | Hilo N | Hilo | 2525/2659
18°42.5’N, 110°56.8’W | 18°41.5’N, 110°27.0’W | Oahu E |  |  |
|  | 21°20.0’N, 157°21.0’W |  |  |
|  | Oahu SE 21°16.0’N, 157°37.0’W | Diamond 21°14.5’N, 157°49.0’W | Honolulu | 2551/2697

Tropical storms affect this route throughout the summer, although boats leaving from Mexico are at greater risk than those setting off from further south, where the route can easily be shaped to avoid the danger area. Mainly because of the threat of these storms, most passages on this route are made either before June or after October. At all times it is essential to move offshore as quickly as possible to escape the influence of the land and find the prevailing NE trades. In April and early May, the weather in the vicinity of the coast is often unsettled, with thunderstorms and variable winds. The winds offshore are very steady during the early summer, especially west of longitude 120ºW. In November and December the trade winds are much stronger and there is often a big swell, the result of storms further north.

There are three very different alternatives for this route: to sail the shortest way, which is basically the great circle route; to sail first NW, whether direct or with coastal stops as far as Northern Mexico and go offshore from there; or to stay in lower latitudes, just north of the ITCZ, where according to the latest pilot charts there is a high frequency of favourable NE winds just south of the area affected by tropical storms. The great circle route passes through an area of calms and light winds between longitudes 80ºW and 110ºW, which can be avoided by sailing one of the other alternatives. Those who choose to sail the second alternative may either take their leave from the Revillagigedo Islands or continue as far as Cabo San Lucas and strike offshore from there. The southerly route should be preferred during the hurricane season, when both the great circle and northern routes pass through an area of tropical storms west of Mexico.

Generally, between November and February, the direct route from Panama is to be preferred as it takes less time to reach the NE trade wind belt, which extends further south in winter. Similarly, if the passage is undertaken in late November, favourable winds and current can be expected for almost the entire distance. For those who may be tempted to combine this long passage with a detour to the Galapagos Islands, the southern route can be adapted easily to do just that even if it means crossing the ITCZ twice. If this route is sailed during the hurricane season, there will be favourable SE winds and a west-setting current from the Galapagos. Depending on existing conditions, the equator should be crossed before 120°W to ensure a fair sailing angle once the NE trade winds are met. However, the weather should be monitored constantly to avoid being caught by a hurricane, which can reach as far west as Hawaii.

Suggested waypoints are listed for two routes, one originating in Panama or Costa Rica, the other in Mexico’s Revillagigedo offshore islands, or Baja California.

When making landfall in Hawaii, because of increased wind strengths in the channels separating the islands, it is usually better to sail in their lee rather than approach them from windward. Conditions in the channels between the islands can be violent, and better conditions may be encountered at night. The nearest landfall is Hilo on Big Island, as it is to windward of all other ports and therefore a good starting point for a cruise among the islands. Hilo’s main disadvantage is the limited range of facilities for visiting boats, both docking and repair services. Much better services will be found further west, especially in Honolulu, on the south coast of Oahu Island.

• PN24 Panama, Central America and Mexico to California and Pacific Northwest

BEST TIME: | April (offshore), March, April, December (inshore)
TROPICAL STORMS: | Mid-May to November
CHARTS: | BA 4050, 4051, US 51
World Voyage Planner: | P28 Voyages from Central America and Mexico
CRUISING GUIDES: | US Pacific Coast.

Individual waypoints have not been listed for this route as there are too many different options and alternatives to choose from. However, the various alternatives are made up of individual routes described elsewhere, and therefore routes PN21 and PN23 should be referred to for the initial stages of this passage, and routes PN32 and PN33 for the continuation of the voyage from Hawaii to the west coast of North America.

For boats leaving from Panama, this can be a long and arduous trip. For this reason it has been suggested that it is easier to sail from Panama to Hawaii and thence to the west coast of North America, especially for those who like long offshore passages and are not pressed for time. If a detour to Hawaii is considered, details for that passage are given in route PN23. Those who are planning a northbound passage from Panama should time it so as to be north of Cabo San Lucas by mid-May, especially as some insurance companies make this provision in their policies in view of the hurricane season in Western Mexico. This consideration, coupled with weather conditions in the Caribbean, makes it advisable to plan on transiting the Panama Canal early in the year, so as to have plenty of time either to reach the west coast before the onset of the hurricane season or to make alternative arrangements.

The choice is between a relatively direct inshore route along the coast of Central America, an offshore route that attempts to take best advantage of existing conditions, or a grand detour via Hawaii. If the prospect of such a long detour via Hawaii is not acceptable, the choice is between the other two routes, both of which have advantages and also disadvantages. The offshore route offers a greater certainty of favourable winds for the first half of the voyage but then becomes a hard beat against the prevailing winds. A route that runs parallel to the coast is shorter but depends more on the use of the engine. In both cases the final leg north of latitude 30ºN may prove to be the toughest because of the high proportion of N and NW winds during the summer months.

The choice of route should depend primarily on the windward performance of the boat as much of the voyage will be hard on the wind, and for this reason those who are not prepared to face a beat of hundreds if not thousands of miles, or whose boat may not be up to the challenge, should perhaps reconsider their plans. Sailing north relatively close to the coast has the advantage of being able to find shelter in some of the ports en route. As mentioned earlier, two local weather phenomena must be taken into account if taking this inshore route during winter and they are the strong winds in the gulfs of Papagayo and Tehuantepec. The worst period is from October to April, with the highest frequency between the end of November and the end of January. The effect of the winds can be felt as much as 150 miles offshore. The advice given by captains of boats plying this coast regularly is to stay as close inshore as safety will permit. There are several ports where shelter can be sought, but by sailing close to the shore you should be prepared to handle these strong winds.

The offshore route to the US west coast has been sailed successfully by many boats over the years and, although longer, it can be far less arduous than the coastal route. The tactic is to go far enough offshore to find the prevailing NE trade winds. Boats leaving from some of the more northern ports in Mexico may have to go as far west as 120°W to find those winds. Once in the NE wind area, unless bound for a port in Southern California, one should continue sailing in a NNW direction almost until the latitude of the port of destination is reached before going on the other tack and altering course for the coast. Boats bound for ports in Northern California should be prepared to go as far west as 130°W before tacking, while boats bound for the Pacific Northwest may have to go as far as 140°W before changing to the port tack. How far west and north one should go depends entirely on the current weather conditions, which will be dictated by the location of the North Pacific High. The SE quadrant of the latter normally produces NE winds, so this area should not be approached too soon and the starboard tack should be held until you are certain of being able to reach your destination on the port tack.

The passage may be interrupted at several offshore islands, such as Isla de Coco, which belongs to Costa Rica and lies about 300 miles off its coast. The island is a nature reserve and has some resident wardens, but boats are allowed to stop. Even more remote is Clipperton Island, an uninhabited French possession, although it is occasionally visited by meteorologists, scientists or the French military. As this is an out-of-bounds nature reserve, vessels are not allowed to anchor, nor is anyone permitted to dive or land ashore.

Whether stopping at these islands or not, the course should head in a general NW direction until the area of NE trade winds is reached. However, if winds are favourable after passing Punta Mala, a more direct route can be sailed, especially to destinations in California. The initial course runs parallel to the coast of Central America as far as Costa Rica, keeping only about 20 miles off the coast. From Northern Costa Rica the route heads due west to pass just north of Clipperton Island. The route then runs parallel to the mainland coast in a NW direction gradually curving towards the port of destination by using the existing winds to best advantage. If taking this route one must be prepared to motorsail when necessary, especially during the first leg from Panama northwards. This route is often preferred by delivery skippers, who recommend its use particularly during the first months of the year.

Northbound routes from Mexico are never easy, but if the weather is watched carefully, the occasional window will provide favourable conditions. Often in November, and occasionally December, the approach of a cold front will stop the prevailing NW winds and bring calms or light winds. In late spring, when there are strong headwinds offshore, it is often possible to make good progress close inshore with the help of the diurnal land and sea breezes. The recommended tactic is to stay near the shore during the calm night and morning hours and then tack offshore in the afternoon. Being close to shore, it is then possible to find an anchorage when conditions are not favourable.

• PN25 Panama, Central America and Mexico to Micronesia

BEST TIME: | January to April, November to December |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | Mid-May to November (Eastern North Pacific), all year (Western North Pacific) |
CHARTS: | BA 4051, US 51 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P39b Voyages via Micronesia |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Landfalls of Paradise. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PN25A |  |  |  |  |
Balboa 8°56.5’N, 79 °33.8’W | Panama S 8°51.7’N, 79°30.0’W | Punta Mala 7°16.0’N, 79°50.0’W Coiba 7°05.0’N, 81°50.0’W Isla de Coco 5°32.0’N, 86°58.0’W Kiritimati SE 1°38.0’N, 157°01.0’W |  |  |
|  | Kiritimati SW1°50.0’N, 157°35.5’W | Kiritimati W1°58.5’N, 157°30.0’W | London1°58.8’N, 157°29.0’W | 4790
Route PN25B |  |  |  |  |
Revillagigedo 18°42.5’N, 110°56.8’W | Revillagigedo SW 18°41.5’N, 110°27.0’W |  |  |  | 2976
Cabo San Lucas | San Lucas SE | Kiritimati NW | Kiritimati W | London | 3046
22°52.9’N, 109°54.3’W | 22°52.5’N, 109°53.5’W | 2°06.0’N, 157°32.0’W |  |  |

The comments made in PN23 and PN24 are also valid for passages to the Line Islands or further west, but with one distinct advantage. As the Line Islands are not affected by either the hurricanes of the Eastern Pacific or the typhoons of the Western Pacific, passages to them can be sailed at any time of the year. The situation is different if you wish to continue west as the effects of typhoons can be felt in most parts of Eastern Micronesia. During the hurricane season, the route from Panama should stay just far enough north of the ITCZ to avoid the contrary current but benefit from the NE winds without straying into the area affected by tropical storms. These considerations are not so important at other times of the year when the route can be shaped to take best advantage of existing conditions. As suggested in route PN24, those who wish to combine this passage with a stop in Galapagos can easily accommodate this as the subsequent section from Galapagos to the Line Islands should benefit from favourable winds for most of its length.

The route for passages starting in Panama or ports in Southern Central America passes close to two islands, both of which have anchorages in their lee. Isla de Coco belongs to Costa Rica and is a nature reserve famous among divers worldwide for its waters crowded with several species of sharks, manta rays and all kinds of fish that gather here due to an ocean upwelling. Uninhabited Clipperton belongs to France and is occasionally visited by military personnel or research scientists. Stopping at Coco Island may be allowed by the resident warden, but stops at Clipperton are prohibited.

The Line Islands belong to Kiribati and visiting boats are expected to make their first landfall at Kiritimati (former Christmas) Island to complete entry formalities. This is the main settlement in Eastern Kiribati, with an airport and limited range of both repair facilities and provisions. The lagoon is too shallow for keeled boats, and therefore it is safer to anchor in the lee of the main island, west of the main settlement of London, in GPS position 1°59.08’N, 157°28.33’W. Boats approaching from the south are warned that the GPS position of South West Point, and therefore of the island itself, is 1.4 miles further west than charted. The port authority should be contacted on channel 16 to request instructions for clearance.

The most attractive of the small archipelagos is Tabuaeran (formerly Fanning), which has a perfectly sheltered lagoon. The northernmost is the Palmyra Atoll, which is a nature reserve under US jurisdiction. A caretaker and occasionally scientists are based on the island where visiting yachts are normally allowed to make a brief stop.

PN30 • Routes from Hawaii

• | PN31 | Hawaii to Alaska | 291
• | PN32 | Hawaii to Pacific Northwest | 292
• | PN33 | Hawaii to California | 293
• | PN34 | Hawaii to Panama, Central America and Mexico | 294
• | PN35 | Hawaii to Line Islands | 295
• | PN36 | Hawaii to Eastern Micronesia | 296
• | PN37 | Hawaii to Japan | 297
• | PN38 | Hawaii to Guam | 298
• | PN39 | Hawaii to Hong Kong and China | 299

From a sailor’s point of view, the main attraction of a passage to America’s outpost in the North Pacific is the NE trade winds, which ensure a fast downwind passage from ports on the west coast of America, especially from those in California. Hawaii’s main disadvantage is the same trade winds, which make a return voyage to those ports a really difficult undertaking. The usual tactic to ensure finding fair winds for the return passage is to make a big sweep to northward hoping to find in higher latitudes the favourable winds needed for the passage home. The prevailing NE winds also make a return to Hawaii very difficult from any of the Micronesian islands further west, and forward planning should be the main concern for anyone planning a voyage to or from Hawaii. Most routes in or out of Hawaii are under the direct influence of the North Pacific High, which generates the NW winds that prevail along the coasts of British Columbia and the Pacific Northwest as well as the NE trade winds mentioned above. Boats returning to continental America are faced with a difficult obstacle by the same North Pacific High, which needs to be bypassed to avoid the calms and light winds associated with it.

NE trade winds prevail around Hawaii for most of the year. The winds tend to be northerly in March, becoming more easterly later on. The NE trade winds are stronger near these islands than anywhere else in the Pacific. Lighter winds and calms can be experienced in October, while in November and December southerly winds can interrupt the trades. The worst months are January and February, when S and SW gales called konas strike, lasting from a few hours to 2–3 days and bringing rain. Although the Hawaiian Islands can be affected by tropical storms, the number of hurricanes that actually reach the islands is quite small. Nevertheless, this should be borne in mind if planning to sail there during the summer months.

The high volcanic islands affect winds locally and gentle land and sea breezes flow on and off the land. The trade winds also divide and flow around the coasts to the north and south of Molokai and Maui especially. Because of the height of most of the islands, there is a considerable wind shadow in their lee and the trade winds are sometimes blocked altogether. On the other hand, in the channels between the islands the wind is accelerated, particularly strong gusts and rough seas being experienced in the Alenuihaha Channel separating Maui from Big Island. Winds tend to be lighter during the morning before the NE trade winds strengthen for the day.

PN30 Routes from Hawaii

Of all the routes originating in Hawaii, only the route across the equator to Tahiti (PT24) offers a chance of good passages in both directions, although this is not the main reason for the popularity of this route. Ever since the South Pacific was put on the world cruising map, Hawaii has been used as a convenient stepping stone by boats on their way to other Polynesian destinations. Modern sailing boats have given back to Hawaii its prominent position at the apex of the triangle linking the far-flung corners of Polynesia, from Aotearoa (New Zealand) in the west to Rapa Nui (Easter Island) in the east. For a foray into the South Seas, the islands of Hawaii offer an excellent starting point. For those who are interested in sailing a little further, Hawaii is in just as convenient a position, whether the destination is in Japan, Micronesia or Alaska.

The eastern part of the North Pacific lends itself to a circular route, which can be accomplished easily in as little as six months. By sailing to Hawaii in late winter or early spring, preferably from a port in California, one benefits from the best sailing conditions. The early summer is then spent exploring the Hawaiian Islands before the return voyage is undertaken, ideally not later than July. That would allow sufficient time for a short cruise in British Columbia or even Alaska before returning home in the autumn.

• PN31 Hawaii to Alaska

BEST TIME: | Mid-June to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | Mid-May to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4050, US 530 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P29 Voyages via Alaska |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Aleutian Islands and the Alaska Peninsula, Exploring Southeast Alaska, North to Alaska. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PN31A |  |  |  |  |
Honolulu 21°16.7’N, 157°50.8’W | Oahu S 21°15.1’N, 157°51.0’W | Oahu SW 21°16.5’N, 158°07.5’W |  |  | 2033/2236
Hanalei 22°13.0’N, 159°30.5’W | Kauai N 22°15.0’N, 159°31.0’W | Kauai NE 22°14.0’N, 159°17.5’W |  |  | 1965/2183
Hilo | Hilo N | Unalaska E |  |  | 2140/2298
19°43.8’N, 155°05.0’W | 19°44.7’N, 154°54.0’W | 53°38.0’N, 166°07.0’W Unalaska NE 53°53.0’N, 166°00.0’W | Unalaska N 54°03.0’N, 166°23.0’W | Dutch Harbor 53°53.8’N, 166°30.5’W |
|  |  | Kodiak E | Kodiak |
|  |  | 57°43.0’N, 152°07.0’W | 57°47.4’N, 152°23.0’W |
Route PN31B |  |  |  |  |
Honolulu | Oahu S | Oahu SW |  |  | 2386
Hanalei | Kauai N | Kauai NE |  |  | 2343
Hilo | Hilo N |  | Sitka SW | Sitka | 2406
|  |  | 56°50.0’N, 135°55.0’W | 57°03.0’N, 135°20.7’W |

Summer is undoubtedly the best time to make this passage and most boats that take this northbound route normally leave Hawaii in the second half of June. Such a departure ensures longer and warmer days in higher latitudes and at least one month of cruising in Alaska before heading south again.

The course from Hawaii is almost due north and skirts the western edge of the North Pacific High. In summer (June to August), the high is normally centred around 38ºN, 150ºW. NE winds normally persist at least as far as latitude 30ºN before being replaced by variable winds. In some years the shift to westerlies can be quite abrupt, in other years steady westerly winds are almost non-existent and light winds and calms are found all the way to Alaska. Generally, however, favourable winds can be expected for most of the way, as above latitude 40ºN an average of 70 per cent of the winds are from between SW and NW. The weather gets increasingly cold as higher latitudes are reached and north of latitude 40ºN there is also a high proportion of fog. This can be a cause of concern because of the large amount of shipping, both cargo and fishing boats.

A favourite starting point from Hawaii is Hanalei Bay on Kauai Island. From outside Hanalei Bay the course is almost due north along meridian 160ºW, so as to keep west of the Pacific High. Depending on existing conditions, the course is gradually altered to make landfall east of Kodiak Island. From that point the route runs along the east coast of that island to Kodiak Harbour. The well-protected harbour can be entered either from the south, via St Paul Harbour, or from NE through a dredged channel.

Boats bound for Dutch Harbor will make landfall east of Unalaska Island and pass through the Unalga Pass to reach Dutch Harbor in Unalaska Bay on the north coast of Unalaska Island. Dutch Harbor is a better starting point than Kodiak for a summer cruise along the northern shore of the Gulf of Alaska. However, if time is short and you intend to spend some time cruising on the way south, Kodiak may be a better choice.

Because of the short Alaskan summer (mid-June to late August), including Dutch Harbor or even Kodiak in a short summer cruise that starts from Hawaii may prove too ambitious. For those short of time, or starting late from Hawaii, a direct passage to Sitka may prove to be the obvious choice. This is an excellent port to start an Alaskan cruise and is close to some of the most attractive parts of Alaska, including Glacier Bay. A direct route from Hawaii, which follows a more easterly course, may be affected even more by the position of the North Pacific High than the other alternatives. Above latitude 30°N, fog will become frequent and this is also where the NE winds cease to blow before the region of prevailing westerlies is reached. This area of variables can extend as far as 40°N, and for that reason Hawaii should be left with a good provision of fuel as it may be necessary to motor through some calms between one weather system and the next. However, some fuel should be kept in reserve for the end of the passage as those favourable westerlies may turn either to light NW winds, or more likely to nothing, as one enters the Gulf of Alaska. Occasionally those same NW winds can be quite strong, which is a good reason to keep some northing in hand before altering course for the chosen landfall. The Western Channel should be taken into Sitka and the harbour master contacted on channel 16 for docking instructions.

• PN32 Hawaii to Pacific Northwest

BEST TIME: | May to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | Mid-May to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4050, US 530 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P29a Voyages from Hawaii |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Exploring South British Columbia, US Pacific Coast, San Juan Islands. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Hanalei | Kauai N |  |  |  | 2590/2448
21°16.7’N, 157°50.8’W | 22°15.0’N, 159°31.0’W |  |  |  |
Honolulu 21°16.7’N, 157°50.8’W | Diamond 21°14.5’N, 157°49.0’W | Oahu SE 21°16.0’N, 157°37.0’W |  |  | 2517/2336
Hilo 19°43.8’N, 155°05.0’W | Hilo N 19°44.7’N, 155°04.5’W | Hawaii NE 19°55.8’N, 155°00.4’W |  |  | 2489/2317
|  | Scott NW | Sutil N | Vancouver X |
|  | 50°55.0’N, 128°57.5’W | 50°55.0’N, 128°05.0’W | 49 °16.5’N, 123°08.2’W |
|  | Fuca SW | Fuca N | Victoria |
|  | 48°18.0’N, 125°07.0’W | 48°31.3’N, 124°43.0’W | 48°25.0’N, 123°24.0’W |

The summer months are to be preferred for this passage, not so much because they ensure better winds, but because the weather is warmer. Indeed, faster passages have been made in February, when a higher proportion of southerly winds has made it possible to sail almost a great circle course to the Juan de Fuca Strait. At all other times the recommendation is to sail due north on leaving Hawaii and only start turning east when steady westerly winds are met. This normally happens above latitude 40ºN and the point where the route takes on that easterly curve is furthest north in August and furthest south in December. In summer it might be necessary to go as far north as 45ºN before being able to turn east. With the approach of autumn, the North Pacific High starts moving south, which means that the swing to the north need not be so great. However, such an advantage has to be weighed against the increase in the percentage of gale force winds.

Because of the prevailing NE winds, eastbound voyages from Hawaii are never easy, the task being further complicated by the location of the North Pacific High and associated ridge. The tactics for sailing this route depend very much on the position of the high, which in summer is centred on 38ºN, 150ºW. The recommended route follows its western edge and then curves around its northern fringe trying to avoid the calms that are met if the area of high pressure is crossed. Undeterred by this prospect, some people who are prepared to use their engines try to steer the shortest course across and are occasionally rewarded by a faster, if windless, passage. The most common tactic is to sail north to the limit of the NE trade winds and then use the engine to reach the area of prevailing westerlies. For those who prefer to sail all or most of the way, there is less choice, and their reward for a longer and colder passage into higher latitudes is a fast reach in steady westerlies. In summer this could mean sailing as far north as 45ºN or even further. Another tactic is to sail NNE on leaving Hawaii, and make use of North Pacific depressions to make as much easting as possible but to avoid ending up inside the high. For this scenario, one should look for the high to be west of its normal location and nearer to 150ºW before employing this tactic. As the high shifts its position with the seasons, passages earlier in the season, when the high is located further south, can put such tactics to good advantage, even if it will be colder and the percentage of strong winds will be higher in those latitudes.

Those who are prepared to use the engine to reach the mainland by the shortest and most efficient route should also set off from Hawaii heading in a roughly northerly direction and attempt to sail, or motorsail, as close as possible to the wind, constantly adjusting their course so as to intersect the narrowest portion of the high-pressure ridge. Reference should be made to the 500 Mb charts as they show the location and movement of any approaching lows and associated fronts, as well as the high and its isobar orientation. A wider spacing between isobars will indicate lighter winds. Once out of the high and having reached its eastern flank, northerly winds start taking over and make it possible to sail the rest of the passage to the mainland.

Because of the northing needed, boats usually leave from Hanalei Bay on Kauai. Besides the weather, there are several hazards to watch out for on this route, such as the large number of fishing boats. Another hazard, especially north of 40ºN, is dense fog. Extreme caution is necessary in the approaches to the Juan de Fuca Strait because of heavy shipping and strong currents. Shipping separation zones are in operation, with the southern lane being used by arriving ships and the northern lane reserved for outgoing traffic. The lanes diverge at designated points so as to allow ships to turn either north towards Vancouver or south towards Seattle. Traffic in the area is controlled by Tofino Radio. Incoming vessels are requested to report when due south of Amphitrite Point.

• PN33 Hawaii to California

BEST TIME: | March to April, September to October |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | Mid-May to November |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4050, US 51 |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P29a Voyages from Hawaii |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | US Pacific Coast, Cruising Guide to Central and Southern California, Exploring the Pacific Coast, San Diego to Seattle.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Hanalei 22°13.0’N, 159°30.5’W | Kauai N 22°15.0’N, 159°31.0’W |  |  |  |
Hilo 19°43.8’N, 155°05.0’W Honolulu 21°16.7’N, 157°50.8’W | Hilo N 19°44.7’N, 155°04.5’W Oahu S 21°15.1’N, 157°51.0’W | Hilo NE 19°45.0’N, 155°02.5’W Oahu SW 21°16.5’N, 158°07.5’W Oahu NE 21°31.0’N, 157°25.0’W |  |  |
|  | Reyes | Francisco NW | San Francisco | 2128/2327/2330
|  | 37°58.5’N, 123°4.5’W | 37°48.0’N, 122°35.0’W | 37°49.0’N, 122°29.0’W |
|  | Francisco SW |  |  |
|  | 37°40.5’N, 122°44.0’W |  |  |
|  | Sur | Barbara NW | Los Angeles | 2022/2188/2180
|  | 36°19.0’N, 122°17.0’W | 34°25.3’N, 120°51.5’W | 33°40.1’N, 117°31.7’W |
|  | Nicolas SW | Diego SW | San Diego | 2116/2303/2302
|  | 32°59.5’N, 119°52.8’W | 32°37.0’N, 117°15.0’W | 32°41.2’N, 117°13.8’W |

Directions for this route are similar to those for PN32 as sailing a direct course from Hawaii to California is seldom possible due to the prevailing NE winds. The recommended sailing route from Hawaii runs almost due north before turning east once the area of steady westerly winds has been reached. The turning point varies in latitude throughout the year, being as far north as 40ºN in summer and 32ºN in winter. The recommended summer route turns quite sharply at the point where steady westerlies are met, whereas at other times the route follows a curve that turns gradually NE and then E towards the port of destination. Because the recommended summer routes make destinations in the Pacific Northwest closer than those in California, boats from South California often take advantage of this by cruising some of that area before heading for home.

As mentioned earlier, all eastbound routes are greatly influenced by the location of the North Pacific High. Boats with good windward performance can often take a more direct route, as can those whose skippers are prepared to make their easting with help from the engine. Some fast passages have been made in May by boats taking the great circle route and motorsailing to windward in light winds. At other times, boats heading for Southern California have tried to beat their way across by keeping south of the high, something that can be done especially if one is able to keep track of the weather. Otherwise it is better to follow the old practice of making northing while under the influence of the NE trade winds and sail east with the westerlies of high latitudes. In between the two systems one may not have much choice except to use the engine. As the location of the North Pacific High has such a bearing on all routes to the mainland, it is essential to obtain a long-term forecast before leaving Hawaii so as to be able to plot the best course in relation to the existing weather conditions.

• PN34 Hawaii to Panama, Central America and Mexico

BEST TIME: | December to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | Mid-May to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4051, US 51 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P25 Voyages from Hawaii |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Costa Rica, Western Coast of Mexico, Mexico Boating Guide, Panama Cruising Guide. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Hilo | Hilo N | Hilo NE |  |  |
19 °43.8’N, 155°05.0’W | 19°44.7’N, 155°04.5’W | 19°45.0’N, 155°2.5’W |  |  |
|  | Hawaii E |  |  |
|  | 19°46.0’N, 154°55.0’W [One forty] 10°00.0’N, 140°00.0’W [One twenty] 8°00.0’N, 120°00.0’W |  |  |
|  | [Clipperton E] | Acapulco SE | Acapulco | 3158
|  | 10°18.0’N, 109°11.0’W | 16°39.0’N, 99°46.0’W | 16°49.0’N, 99°53.3’W |
|  | [Isla del Coco S] | Golfito S | Golfito | 4226
|  | 5°29.0’N, 87°04.5’W | 8°22.0’N, 83°13.5’W | 8°37.0’N, 83°11.0’W |
|  | Panama SE | Panama S | Balboa | 4488
|  | 8°12.0’N, 79°14.0’W | 8°51.7’N, 79°30.0’W | 8°56.5’N, 79 °33.8’W |

Because of the prevailing NE winds, which blow throughout the year on the direct route to continental America, directions for passages to ports in Northern Mexico are similar to those described in PN33. Reaching Mexico from Hawaii by such a roundabout route is so time-consuming that one should think seriously before committing oneself to such a long passage. The alternative is only marginally more attractive, as it entails a similar detour to the south. Ports in Central America, and especially Panama, can be reached by such a southern route, which is best sailed in late October or November. Recommended waypoints are listed for such a southern route.

A good starting point from Hawaii is Hilo. From there, the existing weather conditions should be used to best advantage to reach the lower latitudes to make the required easting. This is best achieved by trying to sail just north of the ITCZ in an area where the NE winds have lost their strength, or may have ceased altogether allowing progress to be made with the help of the engine, and the east-setting Equatorial Countercurrent giving an additional boost. Two hypothetical waypoints are listed but the decision how far south to go will depend entirely on the current conditions, which fluctuate greatly with the time of year. Those who are bound for Southern Mexico should resist the temptation to turn NE too soon as winds from that direction will be encountered in higher latitudes. It is therefore advisable to continue east in lower latitudes and only turn NE after longitude 110°W has been crossed. This would be quite close to Clipperton, a small uninhabited atoll belonging to France. Landing and even anchoring off the island is prohibited. Boats bound for Costa Rica may be able to alter course near Isla de Coco (Cocos Island). The island belongs to Costa Rica and the resident warden may allow a brief stop. From there, the voyage can be continued to mainland Costa Rica to make landfall at the entrance into Golfo Dulce and the port of Golfito.

Passages to Panama are the most difficult and for this reason some sailors have attempted to make easting by staying within the ITCZ to motorsail in the light S and SE winds that occur on the southern edge of the ITCZ. Indeed, as you approach the Gulf of Panama, those winds tend to become S or even SW and increase in strength, giving a welcome boost to the completion of this arduous passage. If a southern route is sailed, the island of Malpelo may be passed very closely as the Gulf of Panama is entered. The island belongs to Colombia and its only inhabitants are a small number of military personnel. As this is a nature reserve, visitors need a permit to land, but emergency stops are tolerated and there is a good anchorage in the lee of the island. Refer to PN22 for arrival information in Panama.

• PN35 Hawaii to Line Islands

BEST TIME: | April to June |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | Mid-May to November (Hawaii) |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4051, US 51 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Landfalls of Paradise, Polynesia. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Honolulu | Hawaii S | Palmyra NW |  | Palmyra | 1056
21°16.7’N, 157°50.8’W | 18°46.0’N, 155°41.0’W | 5°53.5’N, 162°08.5’W |  | 5°52.5’N, 162°06.5’W |
|  | Palmyra SW | Tabuaeran NW | Tabuaeran | 1117
|  | 5°51.8’N, 162°7.4’W Tabuaeran SW 3°46.5’N, 159°20.5’W | 3°54.0’N, 159°26.0’W | 3°51.4’N, 159°22.0’W |
|  | Kiritimati NW | Kiritimati W | London | 1209
|  | 2°06.0’N, 157°32.0’W | 1°58.5’N, 157°30.0’W | 1°58.8’N, 157°29.0’W |

The route running almost due south to these islands lying close to the equator has the benefit of the NE trade winds throughout the year. These winds are particularly strong and steady in winter, but tend to get lighter as the islands are approached. The NE winds are usually lost somewhere between latitudes 8ºN and 2ºN. The doldrums rarely exceed 2 degrees in width in those longitudes and the switch to the SE trade winds of the South Pacific can be quite sudden, especially between May and August. This area is under the influence of all three equatorial currents, their direction, rate and steadiness varying throughout the year. Sometimes in winter a very strong west-setting current makes itself felt between Kiritimati (former Christmas) and Tabuaeran (Fanning) islands, whereas in summer the countercurrent can be just as strong in its easterly set. Generally, the west-setting North Equatorial Current will be experienced down to about 10ºN. The east-setting North Equatorial Countercurrent has been observed between latitudes 5ºN and 8ºN. South of 3ºN to just below the equator, the current is again setting west, the latter being the South Equatorial Current.

Because the winds will be NE as far as 5ºN, and from there E and SE winds will prevail, some easting should be made in the early part of the voyage so as to approach the islands from windward. The Line Islands belong to Kiribati, and there are official entry procedures only at Christmas and Fanning. There is some confusion over the local names of these and other Line Islands. Christmas is known as Kiritimati, Fanning as Tabuaeran, and Washington as Teraina. Yet another confusion is over the date observed in these islands, which, although lying to the east of the 180° meridian, keep the same date as that of Tarawa, the capital of Kiribati, which lies west of the Date Line, so the Line Islands belonging to Kiribati are one day ahead of Hawaii.

Arriving from Hawaii, the islands are best visited from north to south. In that case the first landfall can be made at Palmyra, which does not belong to Kiribati and is under US jurisdiction. The beautiful lagoon was once used as a military base, but the island is now a nature reserve and visiting yachts are usually allowed to make a brief stop. A dredged pass lies on the west side and leads into the perfectly protected lagoon. A caretaker is in residence and, if contacted on channel 16, will give directions for the dredged channel.

Boats bound for Fanning should set course for Tabuaeran N, so as to approach the island from that direction. Fanning also has a pass into its lagoon, which should be entered with a slack tide as there is a strong outflowing current at other times. There is a good anchorage SE of the pass, close to the village, where formalities must be completed at both customs and police station. At Christmas Island the lagoon is too shallow for keeled boats, and therefore it is safer to anchor in the lee of the main island, west of the main settlement of London, in GPS position 1°59.08’N, 157°28.33’W. Boats approaching from the south are warned that the GPS position of South West Point, and therefore of the island itself, is 1.4 miles further west than charted. The port authority should be contacted on channel 16 to request instructions for clearance.

• PN36 Hawaii to Eastern Micronesia

BEST TIME: | December to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | All year (Micronesia), mid-May to November (Hawaii) |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4052, US 52 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P40a Voyages via Hawaii |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Landfalls of Paradise. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Honolulu | Oahu SW | Marshalls NE |  |  |
21°16.7’N, 157°50.8’W | 21°16.5’N, 158°07.5’W | 7°25.0’N, 172°17.0’E |  |  |
|  | Arno N | Majuro N | Majuro | 1978
|  | 7°23.5’N, 171°40.0’E | 7°10.5’N, 171°11.5’E | 7°06.0’N, 171°22.3’E |
|  | Tarawa NE |  |  |
|  | 1°41.0’N, 173°04.0’E |  |  |
|  | Tarawa NW 1°39.5’N, 172°53.0’E | Tarawa W 1°25.0’N, 172°54.0’E | Tarawa 1°24.2’N, 172 °56.0’E | 2083

This is usually a downwind run all the way pushed along by the NE trades, which become more easterly in the proximity of the islands. Winds are less constant among the islands themselves and in summer the weather can be squally, although the direction of the winds remains predominantly easterly. The unsettled summer weather is caused by the ITCZ moving north over the islands. In the Marshall Islands the North Equatorial Current and Equatorial Countercurrent set strongly through the archipelago producing a complex pattern. The set among the northern islands is mostly west, while in the southern islands it is east. Because of the complexity of the currents, and also because the islands are all low-lying atolls, it is advisable to only sail among them in daylight and avoid night passages.

The direct route for Majuro passes close south of the Johnston Atoll. As navigation within 3 miles of this atoll is prohibited, a course should be set to pass well clear of Johnston. The route then continues north of the Arno and Majuro Atolls, to enter the Majuro Lagoon on its north side through the Calalin Pass. The two-mile-wide pass is located between Eroj and Calalin Island and has a shallow area in the centre that divides it into two channels. The port authority should be contacted on channel 16 as one approaches the atoll. Boats should proceed to Uliga Dock where formalities are completed. The only ports of entry in the Marshalls are the capital Majuro and Ebeye, in the Kwajalein Atoll. The latter should not be approached until radio contact has been established with Kwajalein Atoll Control as the area is used for missile testing by the US military. Visiting the outer islands is only allowed with a special permit, which can be obtained in Majuro.

A more southerly route needs to be sailed by those intending to call at the main islands of Kiribati, lying south of the Marshalls. As in the case of the latter, entry formalities must be completed at the capital as stopping at any of the outer islands is not allowed. The capital is in Tarawa Atoll, where formalities are completed at the commercial port of Betio. Tarawa Radio should be called when approaching the island to give an ETA. A permit should be requested to visit any other islands.

• PN37 Hawaii to Japan

BEST TIME: | March to April, November |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | All year (Western North Pacific) |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4052, US 52 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P40a Voyages via Hawaii |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PN37A |  |  |  |  |
Honolulu 21°16.7’N, 157°50.8’W | Oahu SW 21°16.5’N, 158°07.5’W | Johnston NE 16°50.0’N, 169°20.0’W Ogasawara N 28°17.0’N, 142°18.0’E Honshu S 33°20.0’N, 135°45.0’E Mino W 33°51.0’N, 134°59.0’E |  |  |
|  | Osaka SW | Kansai SW | Osaka | 3574
|  | 34°17.0’N, 134°59.0’E | 34°25.5’N, 135°11.0’E | 34°40.0’N, 135°22.5’E |
Route PN37B |  |  |  |  |
Honolulu | Oahu SW | Johnston NE Farallon 20°26.0’N, 144°53.0’E Daito Shima S 25°45.0’N, 131°15.0’E |  |  |
|  | Okinawa SE | Naha NW | Naha | 4056
|  | 26°00.5’N, 127°46.0’E | 26°14.0’N, 127°38.0’E | 26°13.4’N, 127°39.0’E |

Two route alternatives are suggested: a northern route to Japan itself, and a southern route to Okinawa. Favourable winds prevail along the southern route throughout the year, and also on much of the northern route, although the time of arrival in Japan must take into account the typhoon season in that part of the world. A passage in winter, when there is little or no danger of typhoons, is not recommended as the weather can be cold and stormy in Japan. A better time is late spring towards the end of the NE monsoon and the risk of typhoons is low. If planning to cruise in Japan, the best time to leave Hawaii is towards the end of March so as to arrive in Japan by late April or early May. Although the risk of typhoons in summer is very high, throughout Japan there are typhoon-proof places, where finding shelter would be possible. Another alternative is to make the passage just before the onset of winter, late October or November being a good time in which both winds and current are favourable.

If the passage is made between April and September, from Hawaii route PN37A runs due west roughly along the Tropic of Cancer. Although conditions for a westbound passage appear to be best in summer, the risk of encountering a typhoon in the Western Pacific is high and therefore passages at that time are not advisable. Later in the year, and during winter, the NE trades are steadier further south so it may be necessary to go south to be sure of favourable winds. Leaving from Honolulu, and depending on the time of year, the route will pass either south or north of the Johnston Atoll. Having passed that point, the route should continue west to stay within the NE trade wind belt and should only start curving NW after meridian 160ºE has been crossed. It is at that point that a decision has to be made whether to pass to the south or north of Ogasawara Gunto, the chain of islands stretching south of Japan. The recommended route for boats bound for ports in Eastern and Central Japan passes north of these islands. For ports in the west of Japan and Okinawa, better conditions will be found if the route passes south of Ogasawara Gunto. An interesting and convenient island in the latter group, in which an emergency stop can be made, is Chichi Shima. The main settlement Omura is in Futami Ko Bay, which is well sheltered from all directions except SW winds.

For boats bound for Central Japan, the most conveniently located port is Osaka, especially for those planning to cruise the Inland Sea. There are several marinas in the Osaka area, Tannova Yacht Harbour and Wakayama Marina, near the international airport, having attracted the best reports from visiting sailors. The Japan coastguard requires all vessels to report at least 24 hours before arrival with ETA and a raft of other details. Further information is available at www.kaiho.mlit.go.jp.

The southern route (PN37B) follows similar directions to those outlined above and will enjoy more favourable winds during a winter passage until the time comes to swing NW towards Okinawa. The route passes close to two rocky islets Daito Shima, both marked with lights. Naha is the main port in Okinawa and a favourite start for a cruise among Japan’s many islands as it has a good range of facilities. It is also a good base for a continuation of the voyage to either the western islands of Japan, Hong Kong, China or the Philippines.

• PN38 Hawaii to Guam

BEST TIME: | January to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | All year |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4052, US 52 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Landfalls of Paradise. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Honolulu | Oahu SW | Johnston SE |  |  |
21°16.7’N, 157°50.8’W | 21°16.5’N, 158°07.5’W | 16°30.0’N, 169°21.0’W |  |  |
|  | Guam N | Guam W | Apra | 3317
|  | 13°42.0’N, 144°51.5’E | 13°27.0’N, 144°35.5’E | 13°27.0’N, 144°37.5’E |

The steady NE trade winds of winter should ensure a fast passage all the way. Although in theory typhoons can affect Guam at any time of the year, the highest risk is from May to December. East Pacific hurricanes rarely reach as far as Hawaii before August, so the early part of the year can be considered safe. As one approaches the Marianas, the weather should be monitored constantly so as to be able to take evasive action should a typhoon head that way. The initial route passes south of the Johnston Atoll and continues west passing clear of the Northern Marshalls. Landfall is made north of Guam, from where the course is altered to the SW and the approaches to Apra Harbour. On arrival, visiting boats need to contact Apra Port Control on channels 12, 13 or 16. Normally cruising boats are directed to proceed to the Marianas Yacht Club and meet the officials to complete formalities there.

• PN39 Hawaii to Hong Kong and China

BEST TIME: | December to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | All year |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4052, 4073, US 52, 73 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P40a Voyages via Hawaii |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PN39A Honolulu 21°16.7’N, 157°50.8’W | Oahu SW 21°16.5’N, 158°07.5’W | Johnston NE 16°50.0’N, 169°20.0’W |  |  |
|  | Guam N 13°42.0’N, 144°51.5’E Farallon N 20°26.0’N, 144°53.0’E Luzon NE 18°45.0’N, 122°20.0’E | Guam W 13°27.0’N, 144°35.5’E | Apra 13°27.0’N, 144°37.5’E | 3317
|  | Luzon NW | Hong Kong SE | Hong Kong X | 4979
|  | 18°40.0’N, 120°26.0’E Keelung 23°21.0’N, 118°36.0’E | 22°13.0’N, 114°20.0’E | 22°17.5’N, 114°10.0’E |
|  | Xiamen SW 24°12.0’N, 118°16.0’E | Xiamen NE 24°26.0’N, 118°04.6’E | Xiamen 24°26.0’N, 118°03.0’E | 4935
Route PN39B |  |  |  |  |
Honolulu | Oahu SW | Johnston NE Farallon N Bashi E 20°39.0’N, 122°34.0’E |  |  |
|  | Bashi W | Hong Kong SE | Hong Kong X | 4896
|  | 20°34.0’N, 121°11.0’E |  |  |
|  | Keelung |  |  |
|  | Xiamen SW | Xiamen NE | Xiamen | 4779
|  | Taiwan W |  |  |
|  | 24°23.0’N, 119°33.0’E Taiwan NW 25°22.0’N, 120°48.0’E Shanghai SW 29°50.0’N, 122°58.0’E Shanghai SE 30°12.0’N, 123°03.0’E Shanghai S 30°37.0’N, 122°24.3’E Shanghai E 30°58.0’N, 122°012.0’E |  |  |
|  | Pilot | Shanghai N | Shanghai X | 5318
|  | 31°03.0’N, 122°08.0’E | 31°23.8’N, 121°31.8’E | 30°15.0’N, 121°30.0’E |

The route to Hong Kong and ports in Southern China benefits from NE winds virtually throughout the year, although the threat of typhoons in East Asia limits passages to a period between December and March when the risk of tropical storms is lowest. During those months, and especially in early winter, the prevailing NE trades are steadier south of the direct route and it may be necessary to go as far south as 16ºN to be sure of favourable winds. The initial route passes north of the Johnston Atoll and continues due west. Depending on the time of year and the location of the NE trade winds, the passage may be interrupted in Guam (route PN39A), from where it swings NW to pass north of the Philippines. The more northerly route PN39B misses Guam altogether and passes north of the Mariana Islands on a more direct route to enter the South China Sea through one of the channels that separates Taiwan from the Northern Philippines. The intermediate waypoint Farallon N marks the northernmost of the Mariana Islands. The most convenient pass north of the Philippines into the South China Sea is the Bashi Channel. The route then continues across the China Sea to Hong Kong.

Permission to enter Hong Kong waters must be requested 24 hours before arrival. A form needs to be completed and emailed to: hkmrcc@mardep.gov.hk. The Hong Kong Port Operations Service operates on channels 12, 14 and 68, and arriving yachts should contact them in the approaches to Hong Kong. Details of entry procedures can be found at www.mardep.gov.hk. There are several marinas in the Hong Kong area, but visiting sailors usually prefer the centrally located Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club, which welcomes visitors even if its docking facilities are limited.

In mainland China, one of the ports that has attracted the most favourable comments from visiting sailors is Xiamen. Formalities for visiting yachts throughout China are complex and expensive. Foreign vessels must employ the services of an agent to deal with formalities. The official agency is China Ocean Shipping Agency (Penavico).

On arrival in Xiamen, visiting boats are usually requested to anchor among the commercial vessels. Once entry formalities have been completed, permission is usually granted to move to the marina operated by the Iron Rock Sailing Club.

Whether stopping in Xiamen or not, boats bound for Shanghai should continue north via the Taiwan Strait and make landfall in the approaches to one of the busiest ports in the world. Shanghai is spread out on the shores of the Huangpu River, in the Yangtze Delta, and is reached by a long intricate waterway. All vessels, including pleasure craft, must use a pilot, and arrangements must be made in advance to pick one up at the pilot station. This is located at buoy S7 in the south shipping channel and can be contacted on channel 69. The assistance of a local agent is essential, and he will also deal with the entry formalities. Visiting yachts may use a floating pontoon set up by the port authority on the Huangpu River, or make arrangements to move to the Metropolitan Marina Club, which welcomes foreign visitors to its well-endowed premises.

Routes from East Asia

Compared to other parts of the world, cruising routes in East Asia do not fall into a logical pattern. The western part of the North Pacific is far from major cruising routes and East Asian countries can only be reached by lengthy detours. However, many more cruising boats might venture to explore this area were it not for the often unfavourable weather conditions. Virtually the entire area is subject to violent typhoons, which limit the safe sailing season to only a few months per year. As most distances involved are very long, one must be prepared to remain in the area between seasons and spend the typhoon season in or near a safe anchorage, of which fortunately there are many. Although tropical storms have been recorded in every month of the year, the period from December to March is regarded as relatively safe as the incidence of typhoons is quite low.

The three main cruising areas are the Philippines, Japan and Micronesia. The attraction of the Philippines is the generally pleasant climate and the great number of islands, inlets and bays to explore. Although typhoons strike the archipelago with regularity, there are many good anchorages where shelter can be sought. The Inland Sea of Japan and the great number of small fishing harbours make Japan an attractive cruising destination, although the safe sailing season is very short. The scattered islands of Micronesia are much closer in character to the islands of the South Pacific and are convenient stopover points for passages between the South Pacific and East Asia.

For sailors from afar, the main drawback of East Asia remains the difficulty of getting there. In spite of the favourable NE trade winds that blow across the North Pacific ensuring a fast and pleasant sail from the west coast of America, the number of North American yachts that embark on such a transpacific voyage is very small. They are much more likely to be tempted by the lure of the South Seas and sail to the South Pacific instead, although some venture into the North West Pacific at a later stage, most reaching East Asia via Papua New Guinea, Micronesia or the Philippines. Other routes sailed by cruising boats to East Asia originate in Singapore.

The major political changes that have occurred in Vietnam and Cambodia, as well as the gradual easing of restrictions in China, have encouraged more sailors to turn their attention to the many attractive cruising destinations that have opened up in recent years. One main point of access is from the west and Singapore, following the north coast of Borneo, where stops can be made in the small states of Sarawak, Brunei or Sabah. Another alternative is to arrive from the south via Papua New Guinea at the end of a cruise in the South Pacific. There is also the possibility of sailing from the west coast of North America either directly to Japan or to Hawaii.

PN40 • Pacific Routes from Singapore

• | PN41 | Singapore to Gulf of Siam | 302
• | PN42 | Singapore to Vietnam | 303
• | PN43 | Singapore to Hong Kong and China | 304
• | PN44 | Singapore to the Philippines | 306
• | PN45 | Singapore to North Borneo | 307

The majority of cruising boats arrive in Singapore either from the south, from Indonesia, or the NW through the Malacca Strait, and most leave by the same routes. Very few venture eastward from Singapore, although there is an increasing traffic of locally owned yachts, some of which commute between the various regional yacht races, such as the annual King’s Cup Regatta in Phuket or the Hong Kong to Manila Race. The opening of Vietnam to foreign tourism has started to attract more cruising boats to that area. An equally interesting cruising area is the north coast of Borneo, while the Philippines are now regularly visited by cruising boats. The compulsory cruising permit for Indonesia used to discourage short cruises between Singapore and its southern neighbour, but that impediment has been resolved as a cruising permit for such short visits is no longer required.

PN40 Pacific routes from Singapore

• PN41 Singapore to Gulf of Siam

BEST TIME: | January to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | May to December |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4508, US 508 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Southeast Asia Pilot, Cruising Guide to Southeast Asia. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Singapore X 1°16.0’N, 103°45.0’E | Singapore E 1°22.00’N, 104°28.0’E | Ramunia 1°27.5’N, 104°30.0’E Aur 2°27.0’N, 104°38.0’E Terengganu 5°27.3’N, 103°55.8’E Ko Losin 7°20.0’N, 101°56.0’E Ko Kra 8°20.0’N, 100°50.0’E Siam S 9°45.0’N, 100°33.0’E |  |  |
|  | Siam N | Bangkok S | Bangkok | 855
|  | 12°28.0’N, 100°38.0’E | 13°20.0’N, 100°37.0’E | 13°26.0’N, 100°35.0’E |

The best time to sail this route, which runs parallel to the east coast of continental Malaysia, is during the SW monsoon. However, as the SW monsoon coincides with the typhoon season, extreme caution should be exercised if a passage is undertaken at that time of year. On leaving the Strait of Singapore through the Middle Channel, and having left the Ramunia Shoals to port, a course is set to pass east of Aur, the southernmost of the Tioman Islands, an attractive archipelago belonging to Malaysia, where a stop can be considered. From there, the route runs due north to Cape Terengganu before it turns NW to avoid an extensive area of oilfields before it turns north again close to the point where the route enters Thai waters. From there, the course can be altered to make landfall near Ko Phai light and Bangkok Pilot Station, in the approaches to Bangkok (Krung Thep) at the entrance to the buoyed channel leading across Bangkok Bar. The busy port of Bangkok is spread out on both shores of the Chao Phraya River and can hardly be recommended as a cruising destination in itself. Visiting boats should head for Pattaya, where the Royal Varuna Yacht Club is based, and complete entry formalities with the help of the yacht club. Typhoons very rarely strike this area, although Typhoon Gay, which occurred in early November 1989, caused immense damage and the loss of hundreds of lives.

• PN42 Singapore to Vietnam

BEST TIME: | January to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | All year |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4508, US 508 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Southeast Asia Pilot. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Singapore X 1°16.0’N, 103°45.0’E | Singapore E 1°22.0’N, 104°28.0’E | Ramunia 1°27.5’N, 104°30.0’E Aur 2°27.0’N, 104°38.0’E |  |  |
|  | Con Dao |  |  |
|  | 8°40.0’N, 106°8.0’E |  |  |
|  | Mekong SW 10°05.0’N, 106°54.0’E Mui Dinh 11°07.0’N, 109°14.0’E | Mekong N 10°14.5’N, 106°57.0’E | Ho Chi Minh X 10°34.1’N, 106°45.02’E | 622
|  | Gua Be | Mot | Nha Trang | 810
|  | 11°52.0’N, 109°20.0’E | 12°10.5’N, 109°15.5’E | 12 °15.5’N, 109 °12.2’E |

The best time to sail to Vietnam is the same as for the Gulf of Siam as sailing anywhere in this area should be timed to take full advantage of the two monsoons: the NE monsoon in winter (December to April) and the SW monsoon in summer (May to October). Occasionally typhoons strike the NE coastal areas of Vietnam. For this reason, it is essential to monitor the weather carefully if sailing to Vietnam during the typhoon season.

Similar directions apply as for route PN41 as far as the Tioman Islands, if a stop there is intended. From that point the route turns NE to pass west of the Anambas Islands and also west of the Con Son light in the approaches to the channel leading through the shallow waters of the Mekong Delta. Ho Chi Minh City, the former Saigon, stands on the west bank of the Song Sai Gon River. The former South Vietnamese capital is about 40 miles from the sea and access to it is by one of two dredged channels. Anchorage in the river is prohibited except well away from the city.

A more convenient destination on the east coast is the port of Nha Trang, the seaport of the provincial capital Dien Khanh and the finish of a regular race from Hong Kong. Landfall will be made close to Mui Rach Trang at the entrance into Nha Trang Bay. The port of Nha Trang, which lies on the south bank of the Song Cai River, can be reached by either leaving Hontre Island to port and using the main shipping channel that leads into Nha Trang, or through the scenic channel between the mainland and the islets south of Hontre. Facilities in Nha Trang are limited and visiting boats usually need to anchor a long way from the shore. The setting up of a charter operation may lead to an improvement of yachting facilities in the area.

Because foreign cruising boats are still subject to certain restrictions, before the start of the voyage to visit Nha Trang, or any other Vietnamese port, permission should be sought from one of the Vietnamese diplomatic missions in the region. Because of the complex formalities and long delays it is advisable to use a local agent who will deal directly with the authorities.

• PN43 Singapore to Hong Kong and China

BEST TIME: | January to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | All year |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4508, 4509, US 508, 509 |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Cruising Guide to Southeast Asia. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PN43A |  |  |  |  |
Singapore X 1°16.0’N, 103°45.0’E | Singapore E 1°22.0’N, 104°28.0’E | Ramunia 1°27.5’N, 104°30.0’E Aur 2°27.0’N, 104°38.0’E Con Dao 8°40.0’N, 106°8.0’E Mui Dinh 11°07.0’N, 109°14.0’E Varella 12°56.0’N, 109°49.0’E |  |  |
|  | Sanya S 18°11.0’N, 109°27.0’E Hainan S 18°07.0’N, 109°33.5’E | Sanya E 18°13.7’N, 109°28.3’E | Sanya 18°14.0’N, 109°29.7’E | 1174
|  | Hainan SE | Macau S | Macau | 1506
|  | 18°42.0’N, 110°45.0’E | 22°01.0’N, 113°35.5’E | 22°10.0’N, 113°35.5’E |
|  | Hong Kong SW 21°45.0’N, 113°53.0’E | Hong Kong S 22°09.0’N, 114°13.0’E | Hong Kong X 22°17.5’N, 114°10.0’E | 1536
Route PN43B |  |  |  |  |
Singapore X | Singapore E | Midai 2°53.0’N, 107°48.0’E Subi Kecil 3°17.0’N, 108°50.0’E Saracen 6°10.0’N, 115°00.0’E Palawan 10°40.0’N, 118°00.0’E |  |  |
|  | Scarborough W |  |  |
|  | 15°04.0’N, 117°17.0’E |  |  |
|  | Hong Kong SW | Hong Kong S | Hong Kong X | 1798
|  | Keelung |  |  |
|  | 23°20.8’N, 118°36.1’E |  |  |
|  | Xiamen SW | Xiamen NE | Xiamen | 1897
|  | 24°12.0’N, 118°16.0’E | 24°26.0’N, 118°04.6’E | 24°26.0’N, 118°3.0’E |
|  | Taiwan W |  |  |
|  | 24°23.0’N, 119°33.0’E Taiwan NW 25°22.0’N, 120°48.0’E Shanghai SW 29°50.0’N, 122°58.0’E Shanghai SE 30°12.0’N, 123°03.0’E Shanghai S 30°37.0’N, 122°24.3’E Shanghai E 30°58.0’N, 122°012.0’E |  |  |
|  | Pilot | Shanghai N | Shanghai X | 2492
|  | 31°03.0’N, 122°08.0’E | 31°23.8’N, 121°31.8’E | 30°15.0’N, 121°30.0’E |

The number of cruising boats visiting China has been steadily increasing in recent years but many sailors are still deterred from visiting this interesting country because of the cumbersome formalities. Direct passages through the South China Sea must avoid a large area of reefs and associated dangers north of Borneo. In the past the recommended route passed between the north coast of Borneo and this reef area and re-entered the South China Sea through the Palawan Passage. As it is now possible to sail to Vietnam, or pass close to its shores on an offshore passage, this has considerably reduced the distance to Hong Kong for those who prefer to sail this shorter route PN43A. Those who intend to stop in North Borneo or the Philippines should continue to use the traditional route PN43B through the Palawan Passage.

The most favourable winds on either route will be found at the start of the SW monsoon, and although more consistent winds can be expected in July and August, the increased likelihood of typhoons in the area around Hong Kong makes passages in late summer too risky. Winter passages are not threatened by typhoons, but are very difficult to accomplish as this is the time of the NE monsoon when strong NE winds and an equally strong south flowing current occur north of Borneo. A winter passage is best undertaken in short stages with stops along the north coast of Borneo, as described in routes PN44 and PN45.

Boats sailing route PN43A to Hong Kong should leave the Strait of Singapore through the Middle Channel and, having passed the Tioman and Anambas Islands, should set a course that passes well to the west of the Vanguard oilfield, as well as the dangers surrounding it. The route continues almost due north parallel to the Vietnamese coast and keeps west of the Paracel reefs and shallows.

The most southern Chinese port accessible to visiting yachts is Sanya, located on the south side of Hainan Island. The Sanya Visun Yacht Club is located on the Sanya River, welcomes visiting sailors and will assist with clearance formalities. The nearby Amphitrite and Paracel Islands are an attractive cruising ground. Those who are interested in continuing from Sanya to Macau or Hong Kong can sail a direct offshore route to either of those destinations.

Route PN43B also leaves Singapore through the Middle Channel but continues east to pass between South Natuna and Subi Kechil Islands. From there, a course is set to pass south of the Luconia Shoals. The route continues parallel to the coast of Borneo leaving an agglomeration of oil platforms to starboard as far as Saracen Bank. From that point a direct course can be set for the middle of the Palawan Passage, which leaves the Spratly Islands and all dangers surrounding them to port. At the northern end of the Palawan Passage, the route turns due north to pass east of Macclesfield Bank and west of Scarborough Reef and makes landfall SW of Hong Kong. Visiting yachts are welcome at the Royal Hong Kong Club, located in Victoria Harbour, on the north side of Hong Kong Island. Arriving yachts should contact Port Operation Service on channel 12. Because of the heavy amount of shipping, it is essential to time your arrival for daylight hours.

In Macau, visiting yachts can proceed directly to the new marina, or anchor off the Macau Yacht Club on Coloana Island. The club office will assist with formalities.

Boats bound for Xiamen can bypass Hong Kong and sail directly on an offshore course to their port of destination. On arrival in Xiamen, visiting boats are usually requested to anchor among the commercial vessels. Once entry formalities have been completed, permission is usually granted to move to the marina operated by the Iron Rock Sailing Club.

Whether stopping in Xiamen or not, boats bound for Shanghai should continue north via the Taiwan Strait and make landfall in the approaches to one of the busiest ports in the world. Shanghai is spread out on the shores of the Huangpu River, in the Yangtze Delta, and is reached by a long intricate waterway. All vessels, including pleasure craft, must use a pilot, and arrangements must be made in advance to pick one up at the pilot station. This is located at buoy S7 in the south shipping channel and can be contacted on channel 69. The assistance of a local agent is essential, and he will also deal with the entry formalities. Visiting yachts may use a floating pontoon set up by the port authority on the Huangpu River, or make arrangements to move to the Metropolitan Marina Club, which welcomes foreign visitors to its well-endowed premises.

• PN44 Singapore to the Philippines

BEST TIME: | January to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | All year |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4508, 4509, US 508, 509 |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Southeast Asia Pilot, Cruising | Guide to Southeast Asia. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Singapore X 1°16.0’N, 103°45.0’E | Singapore E 1°22.0’N, 104°28.0’E | Midai 2°53.0’N, 107°48.0’E Subi Cecil 3°17.0’N, 108°50.0’E Gannet N 5°04.0’N, 114°00.0’E Saracen 6°10.0’N, 115°00.0’E |  |  |
|  | [Balabac] 7°40.0’N, 118°00.0’E |  | Puerto Princesa 9°43.0’N, 118°46.0’E | 1077
|  | Palawan 10°35.0’N, 117°0.0’E |  |  |
|  | Lubang NW |  |  |
|  | 14°00.0’N, 119°47.0’E |  |  |
|  | Manila SW 14°17.0’N, 120°33.0’E | Manila W 14°27.0’N, 120°46.0’E | Manila 14°33.5’N, 120°58.0’E | 1470
|  | Subic S 14°42.0’N, 120°12.0’E | Grande SW 14°45.5’N, 120°12.5’E | Subic Bay 14 °51.0’N, 120°13.2’E | 1481

Few boats attempt to make this passage without stopping as there are a number of convenient ports on the north coast of Borneo. A passage during the SW monsoon offers the best chance of favourable winds, but such a summer passage also carries the risk of typhoons as one approaches the Philippines. Typhoons, however, are less frequent in the southern half of that archipelago so one should plan on restricting one’s cruising to that area during the critical period. There would be fewer risks from typhoons if the passage was made during the NE monsoon, but the winds would be mostly contrary. As the route runs along the coast of Borneo, the voyage can be interrupted in any one of the three states bordering on the South China Sea, and there are several ports in Sarawak, Brunei and Sabah where yachts can find good shelter.

There are two routes that can be sailed from Singapore to the Philippines, an offshore route that does not call at any ports in North Borneo, and an inshore route which is broken up into several cruising legs and is described in detail in AN45.

Both routes leave through the Middle Channel, but the direct route runs between South Natuna and Subi Kechil Islands. From there, a course is set to pass south of the Luconia Shoals. An intermediate waypoint has been set to pass north of the Gannet oilfields. From that point the route follows the shipping lane through the Palawan Passage. The Balabac Strait is passed on the way, and it is here that boats bound for the Central and Southern Philippines should turn east. The nearest port of entry is Puerto Princesa located in a picturesque well-sheltered bay on the east side of Palawan. The local Abanico Yacht Club is very helpful to visiting sailors.

At the Balabac Strait the route enters the Sulu Sea, where conditions can be quite rough during the NE monsoon. This is one of the reasons why the inshore route through the Sulu Sea is not recommended if bound for Manila and the offshore route should be preferred. As any of the routes starting at Balabac involve coastal navigation, no specific routes or waypoints have been suggested.

From the Palawan Passage, the offshore route continues to Luzon Island with two suggested landfalls, at the capital Manila or Subic Bay. The Manila Yacht Club should be contacted on arrival and will assist with entry formalities. The club has a good range of repair facilities. In Subic Bay there are two yacht clubs and a marina, all of which welcome visitors.

• PN45 Singapore to North Borneo

BEST TIME: | January to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | All year |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4508, US 508 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Southeast Asia Pilot, Cruising Guide to Southeast Asia. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Singapore X 1°16.0’N, 103°45.0’E | Singapore E 1°22.0’N, 104°28.0’E | Pengibu N 1°41.0’N, 109°38.0’E Merundung 2°08.0’N, 106°16.0’E |  |  |
|  | Sarawak N | Kuching NW | Kuching | 825
|  | 2°16.0’N, 109°38.0’E Luconia S 4°12.0’N, 112°41.0’E Sarawak NE 4°42.0’N, 113°44.0’E | 1°58.0’N, 110°12.0’E | 1°39.0’N, 110°31.0’E |
|  | Brunei W | Muara | Bandar Seri Begawan | 1172
|  | 5°09.0’N, 114°44.0’E | 5°03.5’N, 115°06.0’E | 4°52.0’N, 114°55.0’E |
|  | Kubong | Sabah SW | Kota Kinabalu | 1227
|  | 5°27.0’N, 115°13.0’E | 5°56.0’N, 115°58.0’E | 5°58.8’N, 116°3.5’E |

Most boats bound for the Philippines and beyond take advantage of the conveniently placed ports on the north coast of Borneo to break the voyage in either Sarawak and Sabah, which are part of the Malaysian Federation, or the Kingdom of Brunei. From the Api Passage the route follows the coast of Sarawak closely, its capital Kuching being located 22 miles up the River Sarawak. A low bridge over the river no longer gives access to Kuching, and yachts have to anchor below the bridge. There are sandbars across the river entrance, but they only cause problems to deep-drafted boats.

The next country on Borneo’s north coast is Brunei. The main port of this oil-rich state is Muara, at the mouth of the river, on whose shores lies the capital Bandar Seri Begawan. Visiting boats are welcomed at the Royal Brunei Yacht Club, whose staff will advise on clearance. Further east, on the NE corner of Borneo, is the state of Sabah, whose capital is Kota Kinabalu. As in Brunei, visiting boats use the facilities of the local yacht club.

North Borneo is rarely affected by typhoons and the effect of the monsoons is also less noticeable than further north. Especially during the early part of the SW monsoon, winds are often light, there are frequent calms and, if sailing close to the coast, land and sea breezes are more reliable than seasonal winds. The SW monsoon becomes stronger towards the end of summer.

PN50 • Routes from the Philippines

• | PN51 | Philippines to Singapore | 309
• | PN52 | Philippines to China and Hong Kong | 310
• | PN53 | Philippines to Japan | 311
• | PN54 | Philippines to Guam | 312
• | PN55 | Philippines to Palau | 313

Over 7000 islands make up this large archipelago and with such a large and diverse area it is only to be expected that local weather conditions will vary considerably. Prevailing winds blowing over the islands are influenced mainly by monsoons in the China Sea, the Philippines forming a border between this body of water and the Pacific Ocean. The NE monsoon blows from mid-October until mid-May and this is regarded as the fine season, with dry, clear weather.

The SW monsoon only becomes well established from July and lasts until October. During the latter part of this period the weather becomes squally with violent gales, which can last for several days. These gales usually begin from N or NW and back to SW or S, blowing strongly with heavy rain. September to November are the worst months for this kind of weather. This is also the period during which typhoons strike these waters. These storms usually originate to the SE of the islands and move across them into the China Sea, some reaching the China coast, while others curve towards Japan. The Philippines have one of the highest incidences of typhoons, and although the main season is from June to October they can occur in any month of the year.

Cruising opportunities are virtually unlimited, and, with the exception of the very south of the country, the safety situation is good. Yachting facilities are limited to the capital and a few centres, and only basic repairs can be made in the islands. Provisioning is good everywhere and visiting sailors are generally warmly welcomed.

PN50 Routes from the Philippines

• PN51 Philippines to Singapore

BEST TIME: | January to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | All year |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4508, 4509, US 508, 509 |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Southeast Asia Pilot, Cruising Guide to Southeast Asia. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Manila | Manila W | Manila SW |  |  |
14°33.5’N, 120°58.0’E Subic Bay 14°51.0’N, 120°13.2’E | 14°27.0’N, 120°46.0’E Grande SW 14°45.5’N, 120°12.5’E | 14°17.0’N, 120°33.0’E Subic S 14°42.0’N, 120°12.0’E |  |  |
|  | Lubang NW |  |  |
|  | 14°0.0’N, 119°47.0’E Palawan 10°40.0’N, 118°0.0’E |  |  |
|  | Sabah N | Sabah SW | Kota Kinabalu | 618/598
|  | 6°00.0’N, 115°58.5’E | 5°56.0’N, 115°58.0’E | 5°58.8’N, 116°3.5’E |
|  | Saracen | Muara | Bandar Seri Begawan | 749/730
|  | 6°10.0’N, 115°0.0’E Gannet N 5°04.0’N, 114°00.0’E | 5°03.5’N, 115°06.0’E | 4°52.0’N, 114°55.0’E |
|  | Luconia S | Kuching NW | Kuching | 1077/1057
|  | 4°12.0’N, 112°41.0’E | 1°58.0’N, 110°12.0’E | 1°39.0’N, 110°31.0’E |
|  | Subi Kecil 3°17.0’N, 108°50.0’E Midai 2°53.0’N, 107°48.0’E |  |  |
|  | Singapore E |  | Singapore X | 1416/1397
|  | 1°22.0’N, 104°28.0’E |  | 1°16.0’N, 103°45.0’E |

Because of the low incidence of tropical storms in the areas traversed by this route, southbound passages can be made at any time of the year, although more favourable sailing conditions occur during the months in which the NE monsoon is well established. During summer and the SW monsoon, typhoons occasionally pass through the Philippines and therefore offshore passages are best avoided, particularly during the peak months of August and September. As these are also the months when the SW monsoon is blowing at its strongest, passages should indeed be planned for a different time.

Boats leaving from one of the ports on the island of Luzon should sail a route that goes through the Palawan Passage and continues parallel to the coast of Borneo. Boats from ports in Central and Southern Philippines join that route after having exited the Sulu Sea through the Balabac Strait. An offshore route that keeps clear of all dangers, such as the one outlined above, can be sailed all the way to Singapore. However, few boats sail this route without stopping in one of the three small states in North Borneo, all of which have excellent harbours, Kota Kinabalu in Sabah, Muara in Brunei and Kuching in Sarawak. A stop in any of these ports is particularly welcome during the SW monsoon when contrary winds and currents make this passage slow and tedious.

All visiting yachts visiting Singapore are required to engage in advance of arrival a licensed agent to deal with formalities both on arrival and departure. The agent must be contacted not later than 12 hours prior to arrival to commence the entry procedure.

• PN52 Philippines to China and Hong Kong

BEST TIME: | January to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | All year |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4508, 4509, US 508, 509 |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Southeast Asia Pilot, Cruising Guide to Southeast Asia. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PN 52A |  |  |  |  |
Manila 14 °33.5’N, 120°58.0’E | Manila W 14°27.0’N, 120°46.0’E | Manila SW 14°17.0’N, 120°33.0’E Triton 15°47.0’N, 111°0.0’E |  |  |
San Fernando 16°38.3’N, 120°17.7’E | San Fernando NE 16°39.0’N, 120°16.0’E | Sanya S 18°11.0’N, 109°27.0’E Hainan S 18°07.0’N, 109°33.5’E | Sanya E 18°13.7’N, 109°28.3’E | Sanya 18°14.0’N, 109°29.7’E | 764/632
|  | Hainan SE | Macau S | Macau | 1093/976
|  | 18°42.0’N, 110°45.0’E | 22°01.0’N, 113°35.5’E | 22°10.0’N, 113°35.5’E |
|  | Hong Kong SW | Hong Kong S | Hong Kong | 1119/1002
|  | 21°45.0’N, 113°53.0’E | 22°09.0’N, 114°13.0’E | 22°17.5’N, 114°10.0’E |
Route PN52B |  |  |  |  |
Manila | Manila W | Manila SW |  |  |
|  | Luzon SW | Macau S | Macau | 655
|  | 14°42.0’N, 119°38.5’E |  |  |
|  | Hong Kong SW | Hong Kong S | Hong Kong X | 662
RoutePN 52C |  |  |  |  |
San Fernando | San Fernando NE |  | Macau S | Macau | 507
|  | Hong Kong SW | Hong Kong S | Hong Kong X | 515
Route PN52D |  |  |  |  |
Manila | Manila W | Manila SW |  |  |
|  | Luzon SW |  |  |
San Fernando | San Fernando NE | Keelung |  |  |
|  | 23°20.8’N, 118°36.1’E |  |  |
|  | Xiamen SW | Xiamen NE | Xiamen | 657/488
|  | 24°12.0’N, 118°16.0’E | 24°26.0’N, 118°04.6’E | 24°26.0’N, 118°03.0’E |

The safest period to sail to any of the destinations listed above is from mid-December to mid-March, which is the period with the lowest risk of typhoons. However, this is also the time of the NE monsoon when winds on all these routes will be blowing consistently and strongly from N or NW. Favourable wind directions can only be expected during the SW monsoon, but that has to be weighed up against the high risk of typhoons. A compromise solution is the transitional period between monsoons, but even at those times the weather should be monitored carefully to avoid being overtaken by a typhoon along the way.

Several routes are described with a selection of destinations from Sanya in the south to Xiamen in the north. The most southern Chinese port accessible to visiting yachts is Sanya, on the south side of Hainan Island. The Sanya Visun Yacht Club, on the shore of the Sanya River, welcomes visiting sailors and will assist with clearance formalities. Those who are interested in continuing from Sanya to Macau or Hong Kong may sail a direct offshore route to either of those destinations. In Hong Kong, visiting yachts are welcome at the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club, located in Victoria Harbour, on the north side of Hong Kong Island. Arriving yachts should contact Port Operation Service on channel 12 to request permission to proceed directly to the yacht club or one of the marinas.

The attractive port of Xiamen is reached through a long and winding channel. On arrival, visiting boats may be requested to anchor among the commercial vessels. Once entry formalities have been completed, permission is usually granted to move to the marina operated by the Iron Rock Sailing Club. The services of a local agent will greatly simplify matters not just in Xiamen, but at any other port in China.

• PN53 Philippines to Japan

BEST TIME: | January to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | All year |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4509, US 509 |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PN53A |  |  |  |  |
Manila 14°33.5’N, 120°58.0’E | Manila W 14°27.0’N, 120°46.0’E | Manila SW 14°17.0’N, 120°33.0’E Luzon SW 14°42.0’N, 119°38.5’E |  |  |
San Fernando | San Fernando NE | Luzon W |  |  |
16°38.3’N, 120°17.7’E | 16°39.0’N, 120°16.0’E | 17°12.0’N, 119°28.0’E Bashi W 20°34.0’N, 121°11.0’E Bashi E 20°39.0’N, 122°34.0’E |  |  |
|  | Okinawa S | Naha NW | Naha | 954/797
|  | 26°01.5’N, 127°26.0’E Okinawa NW 27°11.5’N, 127°42.0’E Kyushu SW 31°52.0’N, 128°18.0’E Mitsu W 32°37.0’N, 129°39.0’E Nagasaki SW 32°40.5’N, 129°45.0’E | 26°14.0’N, 127°38.0’E | 26°13.4’N, 127°39.0’E |
|  | Nagasaki NW 32°43.0’N, 129°47.0’E | Nagasaki W 32°43.0’N, 129°45.5’E | Nagasaki X 32°43.0’N, 129°50.0’E | 1409/1252
Route PN53B |  |  |  |  |
|  | Okinawa NW |  |  |
|  | Okinawa NE 27°11.5’N, 128°42.0’E |  |  |
|  | Amami E | Koniya S | Koniya | 1197/1019
|  | 27°49.0’N, 127°54.0’E Shikoku S 33°04.0’N, 134°14.0’E Mino W 33°51.0’N, 134°59.0’E | 28°05.5’N, 129°22.8’E | 28°08.6’N, 129°18.8’E |
|  | Osaka SW 34°17.0’N, 134°59.0’E | Kansai SW 34°25.5’N, 135°11.0’E | Osaka 34°40.0’N, 135°22.5’E | 1687/1505
Route PN53C |  |  |  |  |
Cebu City X 10°17.0’N, 123°53.6’E | Surigao 10°31.0’N, 124°32.0’E |  |  |  |
Legaspi X | San Bernardino NE | Shikoku S |  |  |
13°09.0’N, 123°45.0’E | 12°53.0’N, 125°38.0’E | Mino W |  |  |
|  | Osaka SW | Kansai SW | Osaka | 1738/1658

The best time to make passages along any of the routes outlined above is in May, at the beginning of the SW monsoon, when the danger of being overtaken by an early typhoon is quite low. The winds are generally favourable for most of the passage, although calms can be expected when approaching the Japanese coast. The route follows the Kuro Shio Current, which sets NE at a considerable rate during the SW monsoon. Occasionally the weather can be quite rough if a strong wind blows against the current and attention should be paid to the movement of frontal systems.

Whether starting from the west or east side of the Philippines, there is a wide choice of destinations in Japan and the time of year when the passage is undertaken plays an important role in deciding which route to sail. Route PN53A starts from a port on Luzon and follows the west coast of the island to reach the Pacific Ocean through the Bashi Channel. A first suggested landfall is at Okinawa as this is a convenient place to prepare for the continuation of the voyage either in a northerly direction, towards Japan’s western islands, or a NE direction to Central Japan. Depending on the port of destination, the route can stay either east or west of Nansei Shoto (Ryukyu), the chain of islands that stretches between Japan and Taiwan. Starting off from the SW extremity of the Japanese Archipelago, it is easier to move NE along the chain of islands as there are several strategically located ports with good protection, and also many interesting and attractive places along the way. The port of entry on Okinawa is Naha, which has a reasonable range of repair facilities. Reported to be the most attractive of the Ryukyu Islands is Amami Oshima. The northbound passage may be interrupted here as there is a well-protected harbour at Koniya, and some facilities for visiting yachts.

The western route PN53A is bound for the SW coast of Kyushu and the port of Nagasaki. The final approaches to this busy port are rather complex, and boats coming from the south can pass either west and north of Io Shima or through a narrow channel SE of Okino Shima.

At the change of seasons, or perhaps right at the beginning of the SW monsoon, a direct offshore passage can be sailed easily from one of the ports on the Pacific side of the Philippines, which can be reached by a variety of straits. The best is probably the Bernardino Strait, from where a direct route PN53C can be sailed to Osaka. This is a convenient port of entry and also a good starting point for those wishing to enter the Inland Sea (Seto Naikai) from the east. The best yachting facilities in Japan are concentrated in the area surrounding Osaka, with several marinas being strategically placed around the large bay. Marina Wakayama, on the east side of the bay and close to the international airport at Kansai, has some of the best facilities. As it is linked by train to Osaka, and from there to the rest of Japan, it is a perfect base from which to explore this interesting country.

If sailing to Japan during the NE monsoon of winter cannot be avoided, you should be prepared to encounter strong NW winds for the best part of the passage. Early in the year, in February or March, an alternative to beating into the wind by sailing the offshore route nonstop is to head for Okinawa and start cruising among the Japanese islands from there.

• PN54 Philippines to Guam

BEST TIME: | January to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | All year |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4052, US 52 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Landfalls of Paradise. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PN54A |  |  |  |  |
Manila 14°33.5’N, 120°58.0’E | Manila W 14°27.0’N, 120°46.0’E | Manila SW 14°17.0’N, 120°33.0’E Luzon SW 14°42.0’N, 119°38.5’E Luzon W 17°12.0’N, 119°28.0’E Luzon NW 18°40.0’N, 120°26.0’E |  |  |
|  | Luzon NE 18°45.0’N, 122°20.0’E | Guam W 13°27.0’N, 144°35.5’E | Apra 13°27.0’N, 144°37.5’E | 1773
Route PN54B |  |  |  |  |
Davao 7°04.0’N, 125°37.0’E | Davao S 6°10.0’N, 126°11.0’E | Agustin 6°10.0’N, 126°11.0’E |  |  | 1238
Cebu City X 10°17.0’N, 123°53.6’E | Surigao 10°31.0’N, 124°32.0’E |  |  |  | 1232
Legaspi X 13°09.0’N, 123°45.0’E | San Bernardino NE 12°53.0’N, 124°32.0’E |  | Guam W | Apra | 1222

The consistency of the NE trade winds and the west-setting current during winter, when the risk of typhoons is lowest, precludes the possibility of making this passage during the safe season. The only time when a reasonable proportion of fair winds can be expected is during the SW monsoon. At this time the percentage of easterly winds is indeed lower, but the risk of typhoons is very high. Three optional starts are indicated on the direct route PN54B, with the shortest leaving from the San Bernardino Strait and heading almost due east.

If this passage is considered during the NE monsoon, a better slant could be achieved by sailing around the north of Luzon passing through the Babuyan Passage (route PN54A) as from there a direct course can be set for Guam. Port Control should be contacted on arrival and formalities are completed in Apra Harbour.

Because of the difficulty of making easting along this route at almost any time, and also the risk of typhoons during much of the year, an alternative is to reach Guam by way of a detour via Palau and Yap.

• PN55 Philippines to Palau

BEST TIME: | January to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | All year |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Southeast Asia Pilot. |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4052, US 52 |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Davao 7°04.0’N, 125°37.0’E | Davao S 6°10.0’N, 126°11.0’E | Agustin 6°10.0’N, 126°11.0’E |  |  | 577
Cebu City X 10°17.0’N, 123°53.6’E | Surigao 10°31.0’N, 124°32.0’E |  |  |  | 668
Legaspi X | San Bernardino NE | Palau W | Toagel | Malakal X | 729
13°09.0’N, 123°45.0’E | 12°53.0’N, 124°32.0’E | 7°33.6’N, 134°23.7’E | 7°32.0’N, 134°29.5’E | 7°21.2’N, 134°29.0’E |

The best time for making this passage is during the winter months when there is little danger of being caught out by a typhoon. The first part of the passage is under the influence of the NE monsoon, which from December to March can blow quite strongly, although the NE winds gradually become lighter in the vicinity of Palau. The North Equatorial Current has a strong westerly set in this region and this should be taken into account. Palau is just outside the typhoon belt, which is generally considered to start at 10°N. However, unsettled weather is not uncommon during the typhoon season. The area is occasionally subject to strong SW winds, feeding into tropical disturbances as they form and pass north of Palau from E to NW.

Because of the high proportion of NE and E winds in the latitude of the San Bernardino Strait, an attempt should be made to leave the Philippines from as far north as possible to benefit from a better angle across the prevailing winds. Because of strong tidal currents and confused seas at the confluence of the South China and Philippine Seas, it is recommended to try to negotiate the San Bernardino Strait on a slack tide.

If the passage is made outside the NE monsoon, the argument in favour of a better sailing angle is less important and the Philippines may be left from further south. During the transition period, or at the very start of the SW monsoon, it is possible to leave the Philippines through either the Surigao Strait, east of Leyte Island, or from Davao, on the south coast of Mindanao. These are the shortest routes to Palau, but as they cannot be sailed during the relatively safe winter months when the NE winds may be too strong to sail against them, the risk of sailing them in summer must be weighed up against the possibility of being caught by a tropical storm.

Boats arriving in Palau from the west should use the Toagel Mlungui Pass, where a buoyed channel leads into Malakal Harbour. It is forbidden to anchor or stop anywhere before clearance formalities have been completed. The authorities are based in the commercial harbour. A permit is no longer required for visiting cruising boats. After clearance, the Royal Belau Yacht Club will be the best local source for assistance.

PN60 • Routes from Hong Kong and China

• | PN61 | Southbound routes | 315
• | PN62 | Routes to the Philippines | 317
• | PN63 | Routes to Japan and Korea | 318
• | PN64 | Routes to Micronesia | 320

For many years Hong Kong has enjoyed a leading role on the Asian racing scene, and it was also Hong Kong residents who were the first to bring cruising boats to that part of the world. Most sailing, both racing and cruising, was local and in inshore waters, with the exception of an annual race to the Philippines and a more recent one to Vietnam. The number of visiting yachts was, and continues to be, relatively small, primarily because of Hong Kong’s remoteness from the most popular cruising routes, but also because of the relative shortness of the safe sailing season. Although sailing in the immediate vicinity of Hong Kong is safe throughout the year thanks to the proximity of several typhoon shelters, offshore voyages must allow for the risk of typhoons throughout the year and especially from May until late November.

On the edge of the tropics, Hong Kong has a seasonal climate with well marked seasons. The winter from November to April is the time of the NE monsoon, with cooler temperatures and a lower humidity. The summer, from May to October, is hot and steamy with plenty of rain. This is the time of the SW monsoon. During this period depressions from the SE and SSE affect Hong Kong and these can build up into typhoons. These storms usually start in the Pacific, east of the Philippines, and then move NW. Typhoons are most frequent between May and October, but they can occur at the beginning of the NE monsoon as well.

PN60 Routes from Hong Kong

The coastal areas of mainland China have a mostly temperate climate, although there are great variations between the south and the far north. The tropical areas in the south are affected by typhoons, whereas the northern areas suffer from cold winters and often humid summers.

In mainland China interest in sailing and watersports generally was very limited, but the economic changes that have occurred in recent years have resulted in a proliferation of sailing clubs and marinas being built in several ports. While cruising boats flying the Chinese flag are still a rarity, it will not be long before they will start being seen in foreign waters. Some of the routes outlined in this section are anticipating that kind of development.

• PN61 Southbound routes

BEST TIME: | January to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | All year |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4508, US 508 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Southeast Asia Pilot, Cruising Guide to Southeast Asia. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PN61A |  |  |  |  |
Hong Kong X 22°17.5’N, 114°10.0’E | Hong Kong S 22°09.0’N, 114°13.0’E | Hong Kong SW 21°45.0’N, 113°53.0’E Paracel W 17°8.0’N, 111°7.0’E Triton 15°47.0’N, 111°0.0’E Varella 12°56.0’N, 109°49.0’E |  |  |
|  | Hon Dung |  | Nha Trang | 679
|  | 12°19.0’N, 109°24.0’E |  | 12°15.5’N, 109°12.2’E |
|  | Mui Dinh | Mekong N | Ho Chi Minh | 907
|  | 11°07.0’N, 109°14.0’E Con Dao 8°40.0’N, 106°08.0’E Terengganu 5°27.3’N, 103°55.8’E Anambas W 2°56.0’N, 105°14.0’E | 10°14.5’N, 106°57.0’E | 10°34.1’N, 106°45.02’E |
|  | Ramunia 1°27.5’N, 104°30.0’E | Singapore E 1°22.0’N, 104°28.0’E | Singapore X 1°16.0’N, 103°45.0’E | 1526
Route PN61B |  |  |  |  |
Sanya 18°14.0’N, 109°29.7’E | Sanya E 18°13.7’N, 109°28.3’E | Sanya S 18°11.0’N, 109°27.0’E Varella |  |  |
|  | Hon Dung |  | Nha Trang | 376
|  | Mui Dinh | Mekong N | Ho Chi Minh | 604
|  | Con Dao Terengganu Anambas W |  |  |
|  | Ramunia | Singapore E | Singapore X | 1223
Route PN61C |  |  |  |  |
Xiamen 24°26.0’N, 118°3.0’E Hong Kong X | Xiamen NE 24°26.0’N, 118°04.6’E Hong Kong S | Xiamen SW 24°12.0’N, 118°16.0’E Keelung 23°20.8’N, 118°36.1’E Hong Kong SW |  |  |
|  | Scarborough W | Manila SW | Manila | 800/709
|  | 15°04.0’N, 117°17.0’E | 14°17.0’N, 120°33.0’E | 14°33.5’N, 120°58.0’E |
|  | Palawan |  |  |
|  | 10°40.0’N, 118°00.0’E |  |  |
|  | Sabah N | Sabah SW | Kota Kinabalu | 1158/1067
|  | 6°00.0’N, 115°58.5’E | 5°56.0’N, 115°58.0’E | 5°58.8’N, 116°03.5’E |
|  | Saracen | Muara | Bandar Seri Begawan | 1289/1198
|  | 6°10.0’N, 115°00.0’E | 5°03.5’N, 115°06.0’E | 4°52.0’N, 114°55.0’E |
|  | Gannet N |  |  |
|  | 5°04.0’N, 114°00.0’E |  |  |
|  | Luconia S | Kuching NW | Kuching | 1617/1526
|  | 4°12.0’N, 112°41.0’E | 1°58.0’N, 110°12.0’E | 1°39.0’N, 110°31.0’E |
|  | Subi Kecil |  |  |
|  | 3°17.0’N, 108°50.0’E |  |  |
|  | Midai |  |  |
|  | 2°53.0’N, 107°48.0’E |  |  |
|  | Singapore E |  | Singapore X | 1956/1865

There are two main routes from China and Hong Kong to southern destinations. The western route follows the contour of the mainland and can be sailed either nonstop to Singapore or with a choice of stops in South China, Vietnam and Cambodia, as well as destinations in Eastern Malaysia and Thailand. The eastern route offers just as rich a variety of cruising destinations, which range from the innumerable islands of the Philippines to the diversity of the landfalls in North Borneo.

The most favourable sailing conditions occur at the height of the NE monsoon, when steady winds and a south-flowing current ensure a fast passage. Any variation of these routes can be sailed at any time during the NE monsoon, from November to April, although less consistent winds and squally weather can be expected during the transitional period. During summer the risk of typhoons in the Hong Kong area is high, whereas in the southern part of the South China Sea, the Gulf of Siam and all of Northern Indonesia, tropical storms are rare.

Starting from Hong Kong, the more direct route (PN61A) passes close to the island of Hainan, where the passage may be interrupted at the attractive port of Sanya. In Vietnam, the port of Nha Trang in the bay of the same name is the most convenient port of call, and it is also the destination of an annual race from Hong Kong. Nha Trang is the seaport of the provincial capital of Dien Khanh, and is located on the south bank of the River Song Cai. Facilities for visiting yachts are rudimentary, although the surrounding area is attractive. Further south, the former South Vietnamese capital Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City) continues to be one of the most attractive tourist destinations in SE Asia. Having made landfall off Con Son Island, the port is reached through a channel that leads through the shallow waters of the Mekong Delta. Ho Chi Minh City is located about 40 miles from the sea and is reached by one of two dredged channels.

The alternative route PN61C, originating in Xiamen, follows the east side of the South China Sea passing close to the Philippines, with the possibility of stopping at either San Fernando or the capital Manila, both of which have reasonable facilities for visiting yachts. Having negotiated the Palawan Passage, the route runs parallel to the north coast of Borneo. Most boats bound for Singapore take advantage of the conveniently placed ports on this coast to break the voyage either in Brunei or the Malaysian states of Sabah and Sarawak. Sabah lies on the NE corner of Borneo and its capital is Kota Kinabalu, where cruising yachts are welcome at the local yacht club. The next country on Borneo’s north coast is Brunei. The main port of this oil-rich state is Muara, at the mouth of the Brunei River, on whose shores lies the capital Bandar Seri Begawan. Visiting boats are welcomed at the Royal Brunei Yacht Club, whose staff will advise on clearance. The next small state along this coast is Sarawak, with its capital Kuching being located 22 miles up the River Sarawak. A low bridge over the river no longer gives access to Kuching, and yachts have to anchor below the bridge.

North Borneo is rarely affected by typhoons and the effect of the monsoons is also less noticeable than further north. Especially during the early part of the SW monsoon, winds are often light, there are frequent calms and, if sailing close to the coast, land and sea breezes are more reliable than seasonal winds. The SW monsoon becomes stronger towards the end of summer.

All visiting yachts visiting Singapore are required to engage in advance of arrival a licensed agent to deal with formalities both on arrival and departure. The agent must be contacted not later than 12 hours prior to arrival to commence the entry procedure.

• PN62 Routes to the Philippines

BEST TIME: | January to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | All year |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4508, 4509, US 508, 509 |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Southeast Asia Pilot, Cruising Guide to Southeast Asia. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PN62A |  |  |  |  |
Xiamen 24°26.0’N, 118°03.0’E | Xiamen NE 24°26.0’N, 118°04.6’E | Xiamen SW 24°12.0’N, 118°16.0’E Keelung 23°20.8’N, 118°36.1’E |  |  |
|  | Luzon W | San Fernando NE | San Fernando | 504
|  | 17°12.0’N, 119°28.0’E | 16°39.0’N, 120°16.0’E | 16°38.3’N, 120°17.7’E |
Hong Kong X 22°17.5’N, 114°10.0’E | Hong Kong S 22°9.0’N, 114°13.0’E | Hong Kong SW 21°45.0’N, 113°53.0’E |  |  |
|  | Luzon SW |  |  |
|  | 14°42.0’N, 119°38.5’E |  |  |
|  | Manila SW 14°17.0’N, 120°33.0’E | Manila W 14°27.0’N, 120°46.0’E | Manila 14°33.5’N, 120°58.0’E | 683/632
Route PN62B |  |  |  |  |
Sanya 18°14.0’N, 109°29.7’E | Sanya SE 18°13.7’N, 109°28.3’E | Sanya S 18°11.0’N, 109°27.0’E | San Fernando NE | San Fernando | 632
Route PN62C |  |  |  |  |
Sanya | Sanya SE | Sanya S Triton 15°47.0’N, 111°0.0’E |  |  |
|  | Manila SW | Manila W | Manila | 764
Route PN62D |  |  |  |  |
Hong Kong X | Hong Kong S | Hong Kong SE 22°13.0’N, 114°20.0’E Pratas W 20°36.0’N, 116°33.0’E Luzon N 18°47.0’N, 121°10.0’E Luzon NE 18°45.0’N, 122°20.0’E |  |  |
|  | Luzon SE 14°06.0’N, 124°58.0’E | San Bernardino NE 12°53.0’N, 124°32.0’E | Legaspi X 13°09.0’N, 123°45.0’E | 972
Route PN62E |  |  |  |  |
Xiamen | Xiamen NE | Xiamen SW Bashi W 20°34.0’N, 121°11.0’E Luzon NE |  |  |
|  | Luzon SE | San Bernardino NE | Legaspi X | 860

Most routes across the South China Sea are bound for destinations on the west side of the Philippines Archipelago, but those islands can also be approached from the opposite direction and routes are therefore outlined for those who prefer to start their cruise in the Eastern Philippines.

The best passages on any of these routes are made in spring towards the end of the NE monsoon, which lasts from early November until April or early May. Earlier passages in the NE monsoon can be unpleasant, as the South China Sea can be quite rough, especially when a cold front passes through. In some years the arrival of the NE monsoon is accompanied by gale force winds in the northern part of the South China Sea, resulting in very rough passages in either direction. Southbound passages planned during the typhoon season, especially between June and October, can be quite risky, although reliable long-term forecasts usually ensure a safe start to a passage. The peak typhoon season coincides with the SW monsoon, when light winds can be expected during settled weather.

Whether starting from Xiamen or Hong Kong, a direct course can be sailed to make landfall off Luzon Point in the approaches to Manila. Yachting facilities in the capital Manila are the best in the area and there are several marinas. The Manila Yacht Club has its own marina, which is a typhoon shelter. A more popular port of entry into the Philippines is San Fernando, which is also the destination of the biennial yacht race from Hong Kong.

For those who prefer to start their cruise in the Eastern Philippines, route PN62E, starting in Xiamen, traverses the Bashi Channel at an angle and continues parallel to the east coast of Luzon to the entrance of the San Bernardino Strait. Boats coming from Hong Kong (route PN62D) will reach that same area by passing through the Babuyan Channel north of Luzon.

• PN63 Routes to Japan and Korea

BEST TIME: | April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | May to December |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4508, 4509, US 524 |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PN63A |  |  |  |  |
Hong Kong X 22°17.5’N, 114°10.0’E | Hong Kong S 22°9.0’N, 114°13.0’E | Hong Kong SE 22°13.0’N, 114°20.0’E Taiwan S 21°48.0’N, 120°50.0’E Orchid S 21°54.0’N, 121°37.0’E |  |  |
|  | Okinawa S 26°01.5’N, 127°26.0’E Okinawa NW 27°00.0’N, 127°33.0’E | Naha NW 26°14.0’N, 127°38.0’E | Naha 26°13.4’N, 127°39.0’E | 844
|  | Okinawa NE |  |  |
|  | 27°11.5’N, 128°42.0’E |  |  |
|  | Amami E | Koniya S | Koniya | 1066
|  | 27°49.0’N, 127°54.0’E Shikoku S 33°04.0’N, 134°14.0’E Mino W 33°51.0’N, 134°59.0’E | 28°05.5’N, 129°22.8’E | 28°08.6’N, 129°18.8’E |
|  | Osaka SW | Kansai SW | Osaka | 1553
|  | 34°17.0’N, 134°59.0’E | 34°25.05N, 135°11.0’E | 34°40.0’N, 135°22.5’E |
Route PN63B |  |  |  |  |
Hong Kong X | Hong Kong S | Hong Kong SE Taiwan S Orchid S |  |  |
|  | Okinawa S | Naha NW | Naha |
|  | Okinawa NW Kyushu SW 31°52.0’N, 128°18.0’E Mitsu W 32°37.0’N, 129°39.0’E [Nagasaki SW] 32°40.5’N, 129°45.0’E |  |  |
|  | Nagasaki NW | Nagasaki W | Nagasaki X | 1276
|  | 32°43.0’N, 129°47.0’E | 32°43.0’N, 129°45.5’E | 32°43.0’N, 129°50.0’E |
Route PN63C Hong Kong X | Hong Kong S | Hong Kong SE Keelung 23°20.8’N, 118°36.1’E |  |  |
Xiamen 24°26.0’N, 118°03.0’E | Xiamen NE 24°26.0’N, 118°04.6’E | Xiamen SW 24°12.0’N, 118°16.0’E |  |  |
|  | Taiwan W |  |  |
|  | 24°23.0’N, 119°13.0’E Taiwan NW 25°22.0’N, 120°48.0’E Kyushu SW Mitsu W [Nagasaki SW] |  |  |
|  | Nagasaki NW | Nagasaki W | Nagasaki X | 1087/826
Route PN63D |  |  |  |  |
Shanghai X 31°15.0’N, 121°30.0’E | Shanghai N 31°23.8’N, 121°31.8’E | Pilot 31°03.1’N, 121°08.1’E Shanghai NE 31°01.3’N, 121°33.4’E |  |  |
|  | Cheju NW 33°27.6’N, 126°04.0’E Channel W 34°19.0’N, 128°44.0’E | Cheju N 33°32.2’N, 126°32.2’E | Cheju 33°31.5’N, 126°32.5’E |   356
|  | Channel NE 34°54.5’N, 129°08.0’E Kitakyushu N 34°03.0’N, 130°48.0’E | Pusan S 35°03.9’N, 129°08.0’E Kitakyushu S 33°58.5’N, 130°53.0’E | Pusan 35°06.5’N, 129°44.0’E Kitakyushu 33°56.5’N, 130°51.3’E |   553   620
Route PN63E |  |  |  |  |
Shanghai X | Shanghai N | Pilot Shanghai NE Oshima S 32°29.0’N, 128°23.5’E |  |  |
|  | Nagasaki W | Nagasaki NW | Nagasaki X |   523

There are two very different alternatives for those who plan a voyage from China to Japan: a southern route that passes south of Taiwan and a northern route that leaves that island to starboard. The former is the most commonly sailed and appeals to anyone setting off on a passage from ports in Southern China or Hong Kong, whereas the latter may only be of interest to anyone leaving from ports in Northern China.

Passages undertaken in May, at the beginning of the SW monsoon, will benefit from favourable winds and also avoid the worst of the typhoon season. Sailing any of these routes during the NE monsoon is much more difficult as the wind will be mostly contrary, although the occasional strong NW wind will ensure a better sailing angle.

Route PN63A passes south of Taiwan and continues in a NE direction. This route benefits from favourable winds only during the SW monsoon, but this is also the time when there is a real risk of being caught by a depression or fully fledged typhoon unless the weather is perfectly settled. A safer time to sail this route is towards the end of the NE monsoon, when the trade winds tend to be more easterly than in winter. However, if the passage is made in late spring and the winds are from SE, it may be preferable to stay west of Taiwan and reach Japan by crossing the East China Sea (route PN63C). If the passage is made at the change of seasons, and certainly during the SW monsoon, Hong Kong should not be left if there is any likelihood of a tropical depression moving northwards and developing into a typhoon.

During the NE monsoon, strong N or NW winds can be expected for the best part of any of these routes and the only advantage of a winter passage is the lower risk of typhoons. Early in the year, in February or March, an alternative to beating into the wind is to start at the SW extremity of the Japanese archipelago and move NE in short stages along the chain of islands as outlined in routes PN63A and PN63B. A first suggested landfall is at Okinawa as this is a convenient place to prepare for the continuation of the voyage either in a northerly direction, towards Japan’s western islands, or a NE direction to Central Japan. Depending on the port of destination, the route can stay either east or west of Nansei Shoto (Ryukyu), the chain of islands which stretch between Japan and Taiwan. Starting off from the SW extremity of the Japanese Archipelago, it is easier to move NE along the chain of islands as there are many interesting and attractive places along the way, and also several strategically located ports with good protection. The port of entry on Okinawa is Naha, which has a reasonable range of repair facilities. By keeping to the west of the Nansei Shoto chain of islands, a favourable current will help you to make progress and reach either destinations in Western Japan, or turn east for ports in Central Japan through one of the channels south of Osumi Kaikyo. This passage may be interrupted at Amami Oshima, which is regarded as the most attractive of the Ryukyu Islands. Its other attraction is the well-protected harbour at Koniya, which has some facilities for visiting yachts. From there, route PN63A continues to ports in Central Japan, where Osaka and the surrounding area has the best yachting facilities, with several marinas being strategically placed around the large bay. Wakayama Marina, on the east side of the bay and close to the international airport at Kansai, has some of the best facilities. As it is linked by train to Osaka, and from there to the rest of Japan, it is a perfect base from which to explore this interesting country. Route PN63B continues along the SW coast of Kyushu to the port of Nagasaki. The final approaches to this busy port are rather complex, and boats coming from the south can pass west and north of Io Shima, or through a narrow channel SE of Okino Shima.

Sailing conditions during the summer months are safer in Northern China, and passages to either neighbouring South Korea or Western Japan are best planned from one of the ports in that area, such as Shanghai. Having reached the open sea, route PN63D sets off in a NE direction and passes through the Korea Strait north of Cheju Island. A convenient stop close to the route is the town of Cheju itself. There is a small marina and the rare visitors are always assured of a warm welcome. Those who do not wish to stop in Korea can sail a direct route from Shanghai that stays south of Cheju Island. The best facilities in South Korea are in Pusan, and are a legacy of the 1988 Olympic Games. From Pusan, the route turns south past Kamagata Island with a suggested landfall at Kitakyushu. Located in the NW extremity of the Inland Sea, this is a convenient place to prepare for a cruise through the heart of Japan.

Also leaving from Shanghai is route PN63E, which is the shortest way to reach destinations in Western Japan. On this route landfall is made south of O Shima lighthouse, from where it continues almost due east to the approaches to Nagasaki.

• PN64 Routes to Micronesia

BEST TIME: | December to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | All year |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4508, 4509, US 524 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Southeast Asia Pilot, Landfalls of Paradise. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PN64A |  |  |  |  |
Hong Kong X 22°17.5’N, 114°10.0’E | Hong Kong S 22°9.0’N, 114°13.0’E | Hong Kong SW 21°45.0’N, 113°53.0’E |  |  |
|  | Luzon SW 14°42.0’N, 119°38.5’E Lubang E 13°56.0’N, 120°24.0’E | Manila SW 14°17.0’N, 120°33.0’E | Manila 14°33.5’N, 120°58.0’E | 662
|  | Luzon S |  |  |
|  | 13°45.0’N, 120°30.0’E |  |  |
|  | Bernardino NE | Guam W | Apra | 2066
|  | 12°53.0’N, 124°32.0’E | 13°27.0’N, 144°35.5’E | 13°27.0’N, 144°37.5’E |
|  | Palau W 7°33.6’N, 134°23.7’E | Toagel 7°32.0’N, 134°29.5’E | Malakal X 7°21.2’N, 134°29.0’ | 1573
Route PN64B |  |  |  |  |
Xiamen 24°26.0’N, 118°3.0’E | Xiamen NE 24°26.0’N, 118°04.6’E | Xiamen SW 24°12.0’N, 118°16.0’E Keelung 23°20.8’N, 118°36.1’E Bashi W 20°34.0’N, 121°11.0’E |  |  |
|  | Luzon NE | Guam W | Apra | 1743
|  | 18°45.0’N, 122°20.0’E |  |  |
|  | Palau W | Toagel | Malakal X | 1409
Route PN64C |  |  |  |  |
Hong Kong X | Hong Kong S | Hong Kong SE 22°13.0’N, 114°20.0’E Pratas W 20°36.0’N, 116°33.0’E Luzon N 18°47.0’N, 121°10.0’E |  |  |
|  | Luzon NE | Guam W | Apra | 1846
|  | Palau W | Toagel | Malakal X | 1512

The unavoidable dilemma faced by anyone planning to set off on an eastbound passage from anywhere on the Asian mainland is whether to do it winter, when the risk of typhoons is low, but the strong NE winds are a real disadvantage, or during the SW monsoon, when the winds are indeed favourable but tropical storms pose a real threat. If the passage is undertaken either at the start or during the SW monsoon, a more sheltered course can be taken through the Philippines Archipelago and leave through the San Bernardino Strait. As this is an intricate waterway, waypoints have not been listed between the start south of Lubang Island, and the eastern exit of the San Bernardino Strait. This alternative route may be more attractive, although it must be stressed that typhoons are not uncommon near Guam in April and therefore winter passages are considerably safer. It must be pointed out that in the Philippines typhoons can occur in any month of the year. This is something to be borne in mind when planning a passage.

December to March are the safest months to undertake this passage to either Guam or Palau as the danger of being caught by a typhoon is quite remote. The only serious drawback is the strength of the NE trade winds, which can make the entire passage hard on the wind. Whether starting from Xiamen or Hong Kong, a better sailing angle may be achieved against the prevailing NE winds by sailing a route that passes between the Babuyan Islands and the north coast of Luzon.

On arrival in Guam, Harbour Control should be contacted on channels 12, 13, or 16. Cruising boats are normally directed to the commercial pier in Apra Harbour.

Boats arriving in Palau should use the Toagel Mlungui Pass and follow the buoyed channel leading into Malakal Harbour, where entry formalities are completed. It is forbidden to anchor or stop anywhere before clearance formalities have been completed. A permit is no longer required for visiting cruising boats. After clearance, the Royal Belau Yacht Club will be the best local source for assistance.

PN70 • Routes from Japan

• | PN71 | Japan to China and Hong Kong | 323
• | PN72 | Japan to the Philippines | 325
• | PN73 | Japan to Alaska | 326
• | PN74 | Japan to North America | 327
• | PN75 | Japan to Hawaii | 329
• | PN76 | Japan to Eastern Micronesia | 330
• | PN77 | Japan to Western Micronesia | 331

The choice of routes departing from Japan encompasses the entire North Pacific, although most boats that have visited Japan favour either a southbound route to Singapore, or to the Pacific Northwest, possibly via Alaska. Whereas passages to Alaska or the Pacific Northwest should be planned for early summer, on southbound passages the risk of typhoons must be borne in mind, particularly during the most dangerous period between August and October. Passages from Japan to Hong Kong, the Philippines and Singapore should be planned either for the end of spring or late autumn, early winter. Although the number of cruising boats visiting mainland China is still small, every year a few Japanese yachts venture across the China Sea, usually as part of a race or organised event. Facilities for pleasure boats are improving throughout China, and formalities are also gradually being eased, so more Japanese cruising yachts can be expected there in the future.

As most of Japan is situated in the belt of variables, in summer the wind can blow from almost any direction. This summer period also bears the risk of typhoons from May through to October as these storms move NW out of their breeding grounds further south. Another hazard of sailing in Japanese waters is the high proportion of foggy days. This is due to the cold current coming from the north meeting the warmer Kuro Shio current and producing a similar effect to that found on the Grand Banks in the North Atlantic. Because of the relatively short sailing season and rarely pleasant sailing conditions, only a few cruising boats venture to Japan, although the difficulties of getting there are more than made up for by the warm reception extended everywhere.

PN70 Routes from Japan

• PN71 Japan to China and Hong Kong

BEST TIME: | March to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | May to December |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4508, 4509, US 524 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Southeast Asia Pilot, Cruising Guide to Southeast Asia. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PN71A |  |  |  |  |
Kitakyushu | Kitakyushu S | Kitakyushu N |  |  |
33°56.5’N, 130°51.3’E | 33°58.5’N, 130°53.0’E | 34°03.0’N, 130°48.0’E Iki N 33°56.5’N, 129°41.0’E |  |  |
Hakata 33°37.0’N, 130°23.5’E | Fukuoka W 33°38.6’N, 130°19.2’E | Genkay SW 33°41.0’N, 130°12.5’E Futagami N 33°40.0’N, 129°32.0’E |  |  |
|  | Cheju NE | Cheju N | Cheju | 224/195
|  | 33°38.0’N, 126°56.5’E | 33°32.2’N, 126°32.2’E | 33°31.5’N, 126°32.5’E |
|  | Cheju NW |  |  |
|  | 33°27.6’N, 126°04.0’E |  |  |
|  | Shanghai NE |  |  |
|  | 31°01.3’N, 121°55.0’E |  |  |
|  | Pilot | Shanghai N | Shanghai X | 582/579
|  | 31°03.1’N, 121°08.1’E | 31°23.8’N, 121°31.8’E | 31°15.0’N, 121°30.0’E |
Route PN71B |  |  |  |  |
Nagasaki | Nagasaki NW | Nagasaki W |  |  |
32 °43.0’N, 129°50.0’E | 32°43.0’N, 129°45.5’E | 32°43.0’N, 129°47.0’E Oshima S 32°29.0’N, 128°23.5’E Shanghai NE |  |  |
|  | Pilot | Shanghai N | Shanghai X | 497
Route PN71C |  |  |  |  |
Osaka 34 °40.0’N, 135°22.5’E | Kansai SW 34°25.5’N, 134°11.0’E | Osaka SW 34°17.0’N, 134°59.0’E Mino W 33°51.0’N, 134°59.0’E Shikoku S 33°04.0’N, 134°14.0’E Osumi Kaikyo E 30°58.0’N, 131°33.0’E Osumi Kaikyo W 30°59.0’N, 129°28.0’E Shanghai NE |  |  |
|  | Pilot | Shanghai N | Shanghai X | 947
Route PN71D Osaka | Kansai SW | Osaka SW Mino W Shikoku S |  |  |
|  | Amami E | Koniya S | Koniya | 656
|  | 27°49.0’N, 127°54.0’E | 28°05.5’N, 129°22.8’E | 28°08.6’N, 129°18.8’E |
|  | Okinawa NE |  |  |
|  | 27°11.5’N, 128°42.0’E |  |  |
|  | Okinawa NW 27°0.0’N, 127°33.0’E Okinawa S 26°01.5’N, 127°26.0’E | Naha NW 26°14.0’N, 127°38.0’E | Naha 26°13.4’N, 127°39.0’E | 737
|  | Orchid S |  |  |
|  | 21°54.0’N, 121°37.0’E |  |  |
|  | Taiwan S |  |  |
|  | 21°48.0’N, 120°50.0’E |  |  |
|  | Hong Kong SE | Hong Kong S | Hong Kong X | 1553
|  | 22°13.0’N, 114°20.0’E | 22°09.0’N, 114°13.0’E | 22°17.5’N, 114°10.0’E |

The best time for most passages is during the NE monsoon when winds are often favourable. As winter passages can be affected by strong NW winds, it is better to plan them for the end of the NE monsoon, in March or April, or at its start in November. Passages during the SW monsoon are not recommended, both because of the contrary southerly winds and the risk of typhoons.

Depending on the time of year and also the port of departure, there are various routes that can be sailed. Three starting points have been suggested on the northern routes PN71A and B: Kitakyushu for its convenient location at the northern outlet of the Inland Sea, Nagasaki as an important sailing centre in Western Japan and Hakata, which is the port of Fukuoka and is the closest Japanese city to mainland Asia. Fukuoka has a thriving sailing community, good facilities and two marinas.

Shanghai has been suggested as the destination for these routes as it is the closest to Western Japan. Shanghai is a dynamic city, but a major disadvantage is that the port is a long way up the Huangpu River, which itself is a tributary of the Yangtze. The Chinese authorities insist that all vessels, including sailing boats, are met at the mouth of the Yangtze by a pilot and guided the 38 miles to the mouth of the Huangpu River and on to Shanghai. The pilot station is located at buoy S7 in the south channel, and should be contacted on channel 69. There are several marinas and yacht clubs in the Shanghai area and the one known to welcome visiting sailors is the Metropolitan Marina Club.

Those who prefer a relatively quieter landfall can continue the voyage south through the Taiwan Strait to Xiamen. The port of Xiamen is reached through a long and winding channel. On arrival, visiting boats may be requested to anchor among the commercial vessels. Once entry formalities have been completed, permission is usually granted to move to the marina operated by the Iron Rock Sailing Club.

The other two routes originate in Osaka, the more northern one (PN71C) is shorter and sails almost due west across the East China Sea to the Asian mainland and Shanghai. This route leaves the Pacific Ocean through the Osumi Kaikyo Passage, south of Kyushu Island. The route passes close to the large Kagoshima Bay, where the city of that name could make an interesting stop. There are good facilities and a marina at Taniyama.

Route PN71D can be sailed either nonstop to the Bashi Channel and on to Hong Kong, or via a more scenic course by calling at some of the islands of Nansei Shoto, the chain of islands that spreads out in an arc between Kyushu and Taiwan. The islands abound in attractive anchorages, and there are also several well-protected ports where shelter can be sought in an emergency. Among those listed is Koniya, on Amami Island, and Naha, on Okinawa.

Permission to enter Hong Kong waters must be requested 24 hours before arrival. A form needs to be completed and emailed to: hkmrcc@mardep.gov.hk.Visiting yachts are welcome at the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club, located in Victoria Harbour, on the north side of Hong Kong Island. Arrangements for a berth should be made in advance.

Those planning to visit ports on the mainland must employ the services of an agent to deal with formalities. The official agency is China Ocean Shipping Agency (Penavico).

• PN72 Japan to the Philippines

BEST TIME:
January to April

TROPICAL STORMS:
All year

CHARTS:
BA 4052, US 524

CRUISING GUIDES:
Southeast Asia Pilot, Cruising Guide to Southeast Asia.

WAYPOINTS:

Start
Departure
Intermediate
Landfall
Arrival
Distance

Route PN72A

Osaka 34°40.0’N, 135°22.5’E
Kansai SW 34°25.5’N, 135°11.0’E
Osaka SW 34°17.0’N, 134°59.0’E Mino W 33°51.0’N, 134°59.0’E Shikoku S 33°04.0’N, 134°14.0’E

Amami E
Koniya S
Koniya
656

27°49.0’N, 127°54.0’E
28°05.5’N, 129°22.8’E
28°08.6’N, 129°18.8’E

Okinawa NE

27°11.5’N, 128°42.0’E

Okinawa NW
Naha NW
Naha
737

27°00.0’N, 127°33.0’E Okinawa S 26°01.5’N, 127°26.0’E Bashi E 20°39.0’N, 122°34.0’E Balintang W 19°55.0’N, 121°26.0’E Luzon NW 18°40.0’N, 120°26.0’E
26°14.0’N, 127°38.0’E
26°13.4’N, 127°39.0’E

Luzon W
San Fernando NE
San Fernando
1478

17°12.0’N, 119°28.0’E Luzon SW 14°42.0’N, 119°38.5’E
16°39.0’N, 120°16.0’E
16°38.3’N, 120°17.7’E

Manila SW 14°17.0’N, 120°33.0’E
Manila W 14°27.0’N, 120°46.0’E
Manila 14°33.5’N, 120°58.0’E
1657

Route PN72B

Osaka
Kansai SW
Osaka SW Mino W Shikoku S

Amami E
Okinawa NE
Koniya S
Koniya

Okinawa NW Okinawa S
Naha NW
Naha

Luzon SE
San Bernardino NE
Legaspi X
1672

14°06.0’N, 124°58.0’E
12°53.0’N, 125°38.0’E
13°09.0’N, 123°45.0’E

The NE monsoon of winter provides the best sailing conditions, and even though it can be quite cold at the start of the passage, temperatures rise significantly as one approaches the Philippines. In the first three months of the year the strongest winds will be from NW.

Route PN72A is aimed at those who may be on a longer voyage and prefer to sail directly to the west coast of the Philippines. This route can be sailed entirely offshore, or with stops in the Nansei Shoto Islands where there is a wide choice of attractive anchorages and well‑sheltered harbours. On Okinawa, the capital Naha can provide safe shelter if the passage is made during the typhoon season. The route enters the South China Sea through the Balintang Channel and follows the west coast of Luzon Island where two landfalls have been suggested. San Fernando is located in a protected bay. Yachting facilities in the capital Manila are the best in the area and there are several marinas. The Manila Yacht Club has its own marina, which is a typhoon shelter.

Those for whom the Philippines are a cruising destination may prefer to sail the more direct route PN72B, which passes west of Kita Daito Shima and makes landfall off the east coast of Catanduanes Island in the approaches to the Bernardino Strait. This is a convenient place to enter the Philippines Archipelago from the east and then sail through sheltered waters to one of the ports of entry. The alternative is to stop first and clear in at nearby Legaspi before negotiating the Bernardino Strait.

• PN73 Japan to Alaska

BEST TIME: | June to July |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | May to December |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4053, US 53 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P33a Voyages from East Asia and Japan |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Exploring Southeast Alaska, North to Alaska, Aleutian Islands and the Alaska Peninsula. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Osaka 34°40.0’N, 135°22.5’E | Kansai SW 34°25.5’N, 135°11.0’E | Osaka SW 34°17.0’N, 134°59.0’E Mino W 33°51.0’N, 134°59.0’E Honshu S 33°51.0’N, 134°59.0’E To Shia N 34°36.0’N, 139°16.0’E |  |  |
Yokohama X |  | Yokohama S |  |  |
35°22.5’N, 139°39.0’E |  | 34°50.0’N, 139°55.0’E Unalaska E 53°38.0’N, 166°7.0’W |  |  |
|  | Unalaska NE 53°53.0’N, 166°0.0’W | Unalaska N 54°03.0’N, 166°23.0’W | Dutch Harbor 53°53.8’N, 166°30.5’W | 2807/2533
|  | Kodiak E 57°33.0’N, 151°46.0’W | Kodiak NE 57°50.5’N, 152°17.0’W | Kodiak 57°47.4’N, 152°23.0’W | 3288/3014

The best time to make this passage across the top of the North Pacific is in summer, between late June and early August, when the weather is warmer and the days are long. During the summer months there are sometimes prolonged periods of calms or light winds when it may be necessary to use the engine to make progress. On the other hand, there is an equal chance that one may experience rough weather all the way. The route coincides with the track of east-moving depressions, which form either in the Sea of Japan or off the Kamchatka Peninsula. They usually move along the chain of the Aleutians and then across the Gulf of Alaska. Occasionally the lows stall above the Gulf of Alaska, causing gale force winds from E or SE and very rough seas. The passage can be broken in one of the Aleutian Islands.

Osaka is a good place to prepare for this long passage as the best yachting facilities in Japan are concentrated in a relatively small area. The open ocean is reached after the Izu Shoto group of volcanic islands has been crossed. Those who prefer to start from a more eastern port could do worse than use the excellent facilities at Yokohama’s vast Bayside Marina. From that point the course sailed should stay close to the great circle route to make as much easting as possible and take full advantage of the favourable winds and current. Because the weather closer to the Aleutians is often unsettled, as much easting as possible should be made while sailing in the area of prevailing westerlies rather than turning north too soon. If existing weather conditions warrant it, easting should be made along 35ºN. During summer a convergence zone runs from east to west close to 35ºN. East-moving low-pressure systems, which form over the Asian landmass, track north of this line as far as 155ºE or 160ºE where they curve NE. Because winds generated by such depressions will be S or SW south of this convergence, while to the north they will be SE or E, it is recommended to sail as long as possible close to 35ºN. Only once longitude 160ºE or even 165ºE has been reached should a direct course be set for the port of destination.

The most convenient port to make landfall is Dutch Harbor on Unalaska Island. To reach this busy fishing harbour, the recommended route goes through the Unalga Pass and enters Unalaska Bay. Dutch Harbor is a good starting place to prepare for a cruise along the northern shore of the Gulf of Alaska.

If the intention is to sail straight to Kodiak, the route should continue east for a while longer so as to stay under the influence of favourable westerly winds as long as possible. Landfall is made east of Kodiak Island. The well-protected harbour is best entered from NE through a dredged channel, although there is also a more intricate approach from the SE.

On this route, an even more important factor than the prevailing westerlies is the activity of the frontal systems that affect the entire route, so developing systems should be monitored constantly and also the location of the North Pacific High, which has a major bearing on conditions to be experienced, especially in the later stages of the passage. In summer the approximate location of the high is centred on 38ºN, 150ºW. Those who plan to make landfall at one of the western Aleutian Islands, such as Attu or Adak, will leave the area of prevailing westerlies sooner and experience mixed weather conditions with occasional strong contrary winds, or calms and fog. Although you may stop for shelter, technically you are supposed to clear in at an official port of entry before landing anywhere.

The timing of this passage will be influenced by future plans as September is the latest time for heading south from Alaska. However, if you intend to leave the boat in Alaska for the winter, an earlier arrival time is not so crucial. Because of the short cruising season, both in Alaska itself and in British Columbia, this solution is taken by many as it allows them to start sailing again as soon as summer returns the following year.

An earlier start from Japan may encounter colder weather and possibly also more gale force winds but has the advantage of a lesser risk from typhoons. Also, there is more time to make a possible detour to the Russian port of Petropavlovsk on the Kamchatka Peninsula and continue from there along the Aleutian chain of islands.

• PN74 Japan to North America

BEST TIME: | July to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | May to December |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4050, 4053, US 50, 53 |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P33a Voyages from East Asia and Japan |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | British Columbia Coast, Exploring North British Columbia, San Juan Islands, US Pacific Coast, Cruising Guide to Central and Southern California, Exploring the Pacific Coast from San Diego to Seattle.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Osaka 34°40.0’N, 135°22.5’E | Kansai SW 34°25.5’N, 135°11.0’E | Osaka SW 34°17.0’N, 134°59.0’E Mino W 33°51.0’N, 134°59.0’E Honshu S 33°51.0’N, 134°59.0’E To Shia N 34°36.0’N, 139°16.0’E |  |  |
Yokohama X |  | Yokohama S |  |  |
35°22.5’N, 139°39.0’E |  | 34°50.0’N, 139°55.0’E |  |  |
|  | Fuca NW 48°36.0’N, 125°17.0’W | Fuca N 48°31.3’N, 124°43.0’W | Victoria 48°25.0’N, 123°24.0’W | 4441/4167
|  | Reyes 37°58.5’N, 123°4.5’W | Francisco NW 37°48.0’N, 122°35.0’W | San Francisco 37°49.0’N, 122°29.0’W | 4802/4528
|  | Sur 36°19.0’N, 122°17.0’W | Barbara NW 34°25.3’N, 120°51.5’W | Los Angeles 33°44.2’N, 118°07.3’W | 5115/4841

Fair winds can be expected right across the North Pacific on this long passage, if it is planned for the high summer and stays in the area of prevailing westerly winds. The most favourable conditions are from mid-June to August, when winds are mostly between SW and W, and some help can also be expected from the Aleutian Current. The percentage of gales in the summer months is low, although the occasional depression can pass over bringing stronger winds. Fog is quite frequent during these summer months and a careful watch should be kept when visibility is poor, as some of the fishing boats that work in this area are often left on automatic pilot with no one on watch. The one serious disadvantage of this schedule is the need to leave Japan during a period when the frequency of typhoons is high. However, long-term forecasts are quite reliable, and if no typhoons are predicted for the near future, a start can be safely made as sufficient miles will have been covered to be soon out of the danger zone.

The recommended summer route, if leaving from one of the ports in Central Japan, is to make most of the crossing between latitudes 40ºN and 42ºN, where there is a better chance of finding favourable winds. Although the final destinations lie further south, directions are similar to those in PN73 as it is strongly recommended to make this passage in higher latitudes and avoid moving south too soon into the area of prevailing NE winds.

Access to weather information while sailing this route is essential so as to be able to decide how far north to go to benefit from the most favourable winds. During summer a convergence zone runs eastward close to 35ºN. East-moving low-pressure systems, which form over the Asian landmass, track north of this line as far as 155ºE or 160ºE where they curve NE. South of the line of such depressions the winds will be S or SW, whereas north of it they will be SE or E. To take advantage of favourable conditions generated by such systems, it is recommended to sail an easterly course, depending on existing conditions, as far as 150ºW or even 155ºW. Having reached that point, the course can be altered for your port of destination, provided it does not cut across the North Pacific High. To avoid being becalmed inside the latter, the course should follow its northern flank.

Once the high has been left behind, boats bound for Vancouver or Seattle can set a direct course for Juan de Fuca Strait. The area should be approached with caution because of heavy shipping and strong currents. Shipping separation zones are in operation, with the southern lane being used by arriving ships and the northern lane reserved for outgoing traffic. The lanes diverge at designated points so as to allow ships to turn either north towards Vancouver or south towards Seattle. Traffic is controlled by Tofino Radio (channels 16 and 74) and incoming vessels are requested to report when due south of Amphitrite Point.

Boats bound for California can alter course for their destination once meridian 150ºW has been crossed. If this passage is made either earlier or later in the year than the recommended time, the route could follow a more southerly course as it may not be necessary to go above 40ºN in search of favourable winds. In the eastern part of the North Pacific, this route depends very much on the position of the North Pacific High, which in summer is centred on 38ºN, 150ºW. The route should therefore follow the contour of the high around its northern fringe in order to avoid the calms that are met if the area of high pressure is crossed.

Those bound for a US port should be aware that all international arrivals (both foreign and US yachts) must file a Notice of Arrival with the U.S. Coast Guard National Vessel Movement Center, at least 96 hours prior to arrival. Email: sans@nvmc.uscg.gov. Tel.: +1-800‑7089823, +1‑304-264-2502. All foreign nationals, except Canadians, must be in possession of a US visa.

On arrival at a Canadian port of entry, customs should be contacted on Tel: 1-888-226-7277 or 506-6365064, who will advise on the correct course of action.

• PN75 Japan to Hawaii

BEST TIME: | March to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | May to December (Japan), June to November (Hawaii) |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4052, US 52 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P33b Voyages via Micronesia and Hawaii |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to the Hawaiian Islands, Hawaiian Islands. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Osaka 34°40.0’N, 135°22.5’E | Kansai SW 34°25.5’N, 135°11.0’E | Osaka SW 34°17.0’N, 134°59.0’E Mino W 33°51.0’N, 134°59.0’E Honshu S 33°51.0’N, 134°59.0’E To Shia N 34°36.0’N, 139°16.0’E |  |  |
Yokohama X |  | Yokohama S |  |  |
35°22.5’N, 139°39.0’E |  | 34°50.0’N, 139°55.0’E Kauai NE 22°14.0’N, 159°17.5’W |  |  |
|  | Kauai E | Kauai SE | Nawiliwili | 3565/3291
|  | 22°09.0’N, 159°15.5’W | 21°57.3’N, 159°19.5’W | 21°57.5’N, 159°21.0’W |

The prevailing NE winds that blow in the latitude of Hawaii throughout the year make it practically impossible to sail a direct course. Compared to the previous two routes, the tactics on a passage from Japan to Hawaii need to be tuned even finer so as to make as much easting as possible in the area of prevailing westerlies, and only turn south when certain that the area of the NE trade winds will be reached soon. Accurate and up-to-date weather information is therefore essential so as to be able to judge the best course to be sailed in relation to the location of the Pacific High, and the influence of any weather systems travelling east from the Asian mainland.

The passage should benefit at the start from the S and SW winds that are common in summer. Because of this high proportion of southerly winds, on leaving Japan it may not be necessary to go too far north in search of favourable winds and, weather permitting, easting will be made along latitude 35ºN. The northern limit of the route depends on the winds encountered up to the point where meridian 180º is crossed. A great circle course can be sailed to this hypothetical point, whose northern limit depends entirely on current weather conditions. Because of the high percentage of easterly winds in lower latitudes east of the 180º meridian, it may be necessary to carry on making easting in higher latitudes before the course is finally altered for Hawaii. This decision will depend entirely on the location of the North Pacific High.

Although the recommended start of the passage is during the typhoon season, as the route moves away from Japan the risk of being overtaken by one of those storms decreases. As one approaches Hawaii there is the slight danger of running into a hurricane, which can reach as far as Hawaii and have the highest frequency between August and October.

A winter departure from Japan, although much colder, would eliminate both these risks, with the added advantage of favourable winds in lower latitudes. If Japan were left in February or March, the belt of prevailing westerly winds would be much further south than in summer and most of the easting could be made along latitude 30ºN, thus considerably shortening the passage. In late winter, when the belt of NE winds lies further south, and there is a fair percentage of SW winds on the direct route, a boat which goes reasonably well to windward may be able to sail a direct route. A convenient port for boats arriving from the NW is Nawiliwili Harbour on Kauai Island, which is an official port of entry.

• PN76 Japan to Eastern Micronesia

BEST TIME: | March to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | May to December (Japan), all year (Micronesia) |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4052, US 52 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P33b Voyages via Micronesia and Hawaii |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Landfalls of Paradise. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Osaka 34°40.0’N, 135°22.5’E | Kansai SW 34°25.5’N, 135°11.0’E | Osaka SW 34°17.0’N, 134°59.0’E Mino W 33°51.0’N, 134°59.0’E Honshu S 33°51.0’N, 134°59.0’E To Shia N 34°36.0’N, 139°16.0’E |  |  |
Yokohama X 35°22.5’N, 139°39.0’E |  | Yokohama S 34°50.0’N, 139°55.0’E |  |  |
|  | Kwajalein N 9°44.0’N, 167°27.0’E | Bigej 8°51.9’N, 167°45.7’E | Ebeye 8°46.0’N, 167°44.0’E | 2503/2247
|  | Majuro NW | Majuro N | Majuro | 2741/2485
|  | 7°19.0’N, 171°03.5’E Tarawa NE 1°41.0’N, 173°4.0’E | 7°10.5’N, 171°11.5’E | 7°06.0’N, 171°22.3’E |
|  | Tarawa NW 1°39.5’N, 172°53.0’E | Tarawa W 1°25.0’N, 172°54.0’E | Tarawa 1°24.2’N, 172 °56.0’E | 3034/2779

A direct passage during the summer months to any destination in Eastern Micronesia has to cross a wide belt of prevailing E and NE winds, and for this reason tactics for this passage do not differ much from those for the previous routes. The main objective is to make as much easting as possible in an area where favourable winds will be of help, and that means staying with the prevailing westerlies until it is time to turn south. The alternative is to attempt to sail a direct route by sailing the tack that makes most easting with the existing winds. Some help can be gained by using the engine to make progress in the area of variable winds that may be encountered just north of the prevailing NE winds.

Because of the risk of typhoons at other times of the year, it may be worth considering sailing this passage in late winter. At that time of year, when the belt of NE winds lies further south, and there is a fair percentage of SW winds on the direct route, a boat that goes reasonably well to windward may be able to sail to its destination. Arriving in the Marshall Islands from the north requires careful navigation as several low-lying atolls and islands need to be passed to reach the Kwajalein Atoll, which is the nearest port of entry in the Marshall Islands. Kwajalein should not be approached until radio contact has been established with Kwajalein Atoll Control as the area is used for missile testing by the US military. Having made landfall on the NE side of the atoll, its eastern coast is followed to the Bigej Pass to enter the large lagoon. Just south of the pass is the main settlement at Ebeye, where formalities can be completed.

None of the outer islands may be visited without a permit obtained in Majuro, the capital of the Marshalls, which is also the only place in the archipelago where repairs and provisioning are possible, and there is also an international airport. Landfall will be made NW of the Majuro Atoll, whose lagoon can be entered on its north side through the Calalin Pass. The Majuro port authority should be contacted on channel 16 as one approaches the atoll. Boats should proceed to Uliga Dock, where formalities are completed.

From the Marshall Islands the voyage can continue south to neighbouring Kiribati. The capital is at the Tarawa Atoll, where formalities are completed at the commercial port of Betio. Tarawa Radio should be called when approaching the island to give an ETA. As in the Marshalls, a permit should be requested to visit any other islands. Passages to the Line Islands are even more difficult on account of the prevailing winds.

• PN77 Japan to Western Micronesia

BEST TIME: | March to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | All year |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4052, US 52 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Landfalls of Paradise. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PN77A |  |  |  |  |
Osaka 34°40.0’N, 135°22.5’E | Kansai SW 34°25.5’N, 135°11.0’E | Osaka SW 34°17.0’N, 134°59.0’E Mino W 33°51.0’N, 134°59.0’E Honshu S 33°51.0’N, 134°59.0’E |  |  |
|  | [Chichi Shima W] 27°05.0’N, 142°08.5’E | Futami SW 27°04.9’N, 142°11.3’E | Futami 27°05.8’N, 142°12.0’E | 609
|  | Guam N 13°42.0’N, 144°51.5’E | Guam W 13°27.0’N, 144°35.5’E | Apra 13°27.0’N, 144°37.5’E | 1403
Route PN77B |  |  |  |  |
Yokohama X 35°22.5’N, 139°39.0’E |  | Yokohama S 34°50.0’N, 139°55.0’E |  |  |
|  | Guam N | Guam W | Apra | 1355
Route PN77C |  |  |  |  |
Osaka | Kansai SW | Osaka SW Mino W Honshu S Palau W | Toagel | Malakal X | 1874
|  | 7°33.6’N, 134°23.7’E | 7°32.0’N, 134°29.5’E | 7°21.2’N, 134°29.0’E |
Route PN77D |  |  |  |  |
Yokohama X |  | Yokohama S [Chichi Shima W] | Futami SW | Futami | 517
|  | Palau W | Toagel | Malakal X | 1716

Any of these passages are best made either late in November, when the worst of the typhoon season is over, or in late winter, before the onset of the new typhoon season and after the worst winter gales are over. If leaving from one of the ports in Eastern Japan, such as Yokohama, some easting should be made while still in an area of prevailing westerlies. Passages to Guam should pass east of the Mariana Islands and approach Guam from the NE. For boats leaving from ports further west, such as Osaka, the direct route will stay west of the Mariana Islands and will be much harder on the wind once the area of prevailing NE trade winds is reached. A popular alternative is to break the trip by stopping in Chichi Shima in the Ogasawara Gunto group, which is also recommended as a place to seek shelter if a typhoon does threaten during the passage to Guam. The main settlement on Chichi Shima is Omura, in Futami Ko, a well-protected bay. The island should be approached from the west.

On arrival in Guam, Port Control should be contacted on channel 16. Cruising boats are normally directed to the commercial dock in the NE part of the large Apra Harbour.

Passages to Palau are somewhat easier, especially if starting from a more eastern port, as this will ensure a better sailing angle. The direct route from Osaka passes well to the east of Daito Shima, two small islands marked by lights. In an emergency, passages starting from Yokohama, or other eastern ports, can be interrupted at Chichi Shima, in the Ogasawara Gunto group.

Boats arriving in Palau should use the Toagel Mlungui Pass and follow the buoyed channel leading into Malakal Harbour, where entry formalities are completed. It is forbidden to anchor or stop anywhere before clearance formalities have been completed. A permit is no longer required for visiting cruising boats. After clearance, the Royal Belau Yacht Club is the best local source for assistance.

PN80 • Routes in Micronesia

• | PN81 | Eastbound routes | 333
• | PN82 | Westbound routes | 335
• | PN83 | Guam to Palau | 336
• | PN84 | Guam to the Philippines | 337
• | PN85 | Guam to Japan | 337
• | PN86 | Palau to Guam | 338
• | PN87 | Palau to Japan | 339
• | PN88 | Palau to the Philippines | 340
• | PN89 | Micronesia to Hawaii | 340

The islands of Micronesia cover a vast area of the tropical North Pacific and their remoteness has kept their isolation almost intact. Only a small number of cruising boats venture west of Hawaii, their numbers augmented by the few that pass through Micronesia on their way to or from the South Pacific and Asia. The remoteness of these islands is only one reason why more cruising boats do not visit Micronesia. The other reason is the uncertainty of a typhoon season that in some areas encompasses the entire year. Some areas of Micronesia are only affected by tropical storms in some months, while others are not affected at all. The difficult navigation among these islands, most of which are encumbered by reefs, has also kept cruising boats away, but in this respect satellite navigation and greatly improved aids to navigation will undoubtedly bring an increase in the number of visiting boats. However, it is doubtful whether they will ever reach the numbers seen in the South Pacific.

The NE trade wind blows freshly over most of Micronesia from November to May. In some years the arrival of the trade winds is delayed or advanced by up to one month. In the early part of the season the trade winds are strong, accompanied by violent squalls and rain. By June, the prevailing NE and E winds are replaced by calms and variable winds, which continue for the rest of the year. In Western Micronesia, in June, July and August the SW monsoon takes over, and this is interrupted sometimes by periods of calm or even short spells of easterly winds. Towards the end of the SW monsoon, late in August or September, strong SW gales can occur. These are usually linked to the typhoons that have their breeding ground in this region. Although these storms usually move NW away from the islands, West Pacific typhoons reach full strength very quickly. Although most typhoons that affect Micronesia occur between July and November, a series of recent typhoons has affected parts of Micronesia during the off-season period between late November and January. For this reason, those who are cruising the islands should listen regularly for typhoon warnings whatever the time of the year. Most tropical depressions that may develop into typhoons are predicted several days in advance, which provides sufficient time either to find a safe anchorage or to sail south into an area not affected by such storms.

PN80 Routes in Western Micronesia

The islands of Eastern Micronesia have a much lower risk of tropical storms than the western group and this is one of the reasons why they are visited by relatively more cruising boats. The other reason is that they are closer both to Hawaii and the popular cruising destinations in the South Pacific. Weather conditions generally are better than in Western Micronesia, and although the islands can be visited at virtually any time of the year, the best sailing season is in winter when the NE trade winds make themselves felt over most of the islands. From February to June the NE winds blow over the entire archipelago, and winds from that direction also prevail during the summer months, although they are lighter and not so consistent. Typhoons do affect the Marshall Islands, but only very rarely Kiribati. However, contrary to a widespread belief, it is not the winter months when the Marshalls are really safe, but rather the period from late March to July when typhoons normally affect Western Micronesia. The Marshalls are more likely to be hit by a hurricane between August and early April, and in recent years no typhoons have been recorded between mid-May and mid-July.

All Micronesian islands apply strict rules to cruising yachts, which are subject to various restrictions, especially in the islands with a traditional lifestyle. Repair facilities in most islands are limited or non-existent. The exception is Guam, which is the most developed island in Western Micronesia. Reasonable provisioning and repair facilities are also available in Palau. As in Guam, due to the American influence, both repair facilities and provisioning are good at Majuro, in the Marshall Islands.

• PN81 Eastbound routes

BEST TIME: | January to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | All year |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4052, US 52 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Landfalls of Paradise. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Apra | Guam W | Guam SW |  |  |
13°27.0’N, 144°37.5’E | 13°27.0’N, 144°35.5’E | 13°12.0’N, 144°37.0’E |  |  |
|  | Chuuk W 7°20.9’N, 151°24.0’E Chuuk NE 7°31.5’N, 152°03.5’E | Piaanu 7°20.7’N, 151°26.2’E | Chuuk 7°30.3’N, 151°57.8’E | 584
|  | Pohnpei NW 7°01.0’N, 158°10.0’E Pohnpei E 7°01.5’N, 158°19.0’E |  | Pohnpei 6°59.0’N, 158°13.0’E | 941
|  | Kosrae N 5°24.0’N, 162°59.0’E | Kosrae E 5°19.6’N, 163°03.0’E | Lele 5°19.8’N, 163°01.8’E | 1207
|  | Tarawa W 1°25.0’N, 172°54.0’E |  | Tarawa 1°24.2’N, 172°56.0’E | 1842
|  | Tarawa SW |  |  |
|  | 1°18.5’N, 172°52.0’E |  |  |
|  |  | Palmyra NW 5°53.5’N, 162°08.5’W | Palmyra 5°52.5’N, 162°6.5’W | 2549
|  | Palmyra SW 5°51.8’N, 162°7.4’W | Tabuaeran NW 3°54.0’N, 159°26.0’W | Tabuaeran 3°51.4’N, 159°22.0’W | 2675
|  | Tabuaeran SW 3°46.5’N, 159°20.5’W | Kiritimati SW 1°50.0’N, 157°35.5’W | London 1°58.8’N, 157°29.0’W | 2778

An eastbound voyage through Micronesia against the prevailing winds and current can be a challenging undertaking for anyone, but there are two ways to overcome this difficulty, and it is something that has been put to the test successfully by many boats in recent years. For those who would rather consider this an opportunity to enrich their cruising experience by visiting some of the least visited island communities in the world, the above route outlines the framework for a passage that calls at all the main islands of Micronesia while making steady progress to the east. For those who are only planning a passage to some distant destination, and wish to do it by the shortest route, the common tactic is to sail east by taking advantage of the Equatorial Countercurrent, which means that much of the voyage will be close to the 5°N parallel. A boat that can go reasonably well to windward is a definite advantage, but you should also leave with a good reserve of fuel so as to be able to motor through the light winds or calm patches that will be encountered. The chosen route will have to take into account a number of factors related not just to winds, currents and weather generally, but also to some of the ports of call en route. There are a number of possible stops for provisions and fuel such as Chuuk, Pohnpei and Kosrae, as well as Tarawa in Kiribati. From there, the route continues to the Line Islands, while still benefiting from the east-setting Equatorial Countercurrent. The Line Islands provide a convenient point of departure for the last leg to Hawaii, as described in route PN89. Although much of Micronesia is considered to be under threat of tropical storms throughout the year, on the suggested route they do not pose a major threat. This is also generally true of Hawaii, although if the islands are approached during the hurricane season, the weather should be monitored carefully as tropical storms occasionally reach as far west as Hawaii.

Eastbound passages from most places in Western Micronesia may encounter better sailing conditions during the summer months, when there is a higher proportion of SW winds, but as this is also the typhoon season, winter passages are to be preferred. Easterly winds predominate throughout the area, so most passages will be on the wind. The North Equatorial Current sets westward and its effect is particularly noticeable between latitudes 8ºN and 12ºN. All these factors need to be taken into account, especially if the passage is not part of a cruise limited to Western Micronesia but of a longer voyage to more distant destinations.

Apra Harbour in Guam is a good place to prepare for the forthcoming passage as it has the best facilities in the area. Once underway, it may be more convenient to complete entry formalities at one of the central islands, such as Weno in Chuuk, Kolonia in Pohnpei or Lelu in Kosrae. The Carolines are divided into four separate states, which make up the Federated States of Micronesia. Different entry requirements apply in each state and visiting yachts are required to complete formalities in the respective capital before stopping to visit any of the outer islands.

Having left Apra Harbour, the initial route passes NE of the Namonuito Atoll and continues to the Chuuk Atoll, which is entered through the Piaanu Pass, on the west side of the large lagoon. Formalities are completed at the main settlement on Weno Island.

From Chuuk, the route continues east past the Mortlock Islands to make landfall on the NW side of Pohnpei, where two passes lead to the main town of Kolonia. Kolonia Port Control should be contacted on channel 16 to request directions where to proceed to complete formalities. Arriving on a Sunday should be avoided. Facilities in Pohnpei are the best in Micronesia outside of Guam, with a small marina at Mangrove Bay in Sokehs Harbour.

An interesting place for those bound for the South Pacific to make a stop is Kapingamarangi, an isolated community where visiting yachts are always welcome. The island is just north of the equator and belongs to the state of Pohnpei. The Greenwich Passage, on the south side of the atoll, leads into the large lagoon. Caution should be exercised when approaching this atoll as it is reported to be 5 miles east of its position as indicated on some charts.

Continuing east from Pohnpei, the next destination is Kosrae, which is best approached from the north and east to reach the harbour of Lele through a pass in the reef. It is also possible to stop at Okat, on the west coast of Kosrae, but authorities prefer visiting boats to complete entry formalities at Lele. It is also in the fishing harbour of Lele that better amenities will be found.

The next two Micronesian nations east of Kosrae are Kiribati and the Marshall Islands. In both of them, visiting yachts must call first at their capitals, Tarawa and Majuro, to deal with formalities as no other islands should be visited without prior permission. The final stop in Micronesia is the Line Islands, from where the route can turn either south to cross the equator into the South Pacific (route PT25) or north towards Hawaii (route PN89).

• PN82 Westbound routes

BEST TIME: | December to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | All year |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4052, US 52 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Landfalls of Paradise. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Majuro 7°06.0’N, 171°22.3’E | Majuro N 7°10.5’N, 171°11.5’E | Majuro NW 7°19.0’N, 171°03.5’E Kosrae N 5°24.0’N, 162°59.0’E | Kosrae E 5°19.6’N, 163°03.0’E | Lele 5°19.8’N, 163°01.8’E | 517
|  | Pohnpei N 7°05.0’N, 158°15.0’E | Pohnpei NW 7°01.0’N, 158°10.0’E | Pohnpei 6°59.0’N, 158°13.0’E | 796
|  | Chuuk NE 7°31.5’N, 152°03.5’E Piaanu 7°20.7’N, 151°26.2’E |  | Chuuk 7°30.3’N, 151°57.8’E | 1159
|  | Chuuk W |  |  |
|  | 7°29.5’N, 151°32.5’E |  |  |
|  | Guam SW 13°12.0’N, 144°45.0’E | Guam W 13°27.0’N, 144°35.5’E | Apra 13°27.0’N, 144°37.5’E | 1635
|  | [Yap SE] 9°28.3’N, 138°08.5’E |  | Colonia 9°29.4’N, 138°07.9’E | 1990
|  | Palau E 7°22.0’N, 134°43.0’E | Malakal SE 7°14.5’N, 134°31.5’E | Malakal X 7°21.2’N, 134°29.0’E | 2206

Westbound passages in Micronesia can usually count on good sailing conditions due to the favourable NE winds and west-setting current. The one major impediment is the threat of typhoons, with the risk increasing as you move west. The safest time is during the first months of the year, when tropical storm activity throughout the region is at its lowest. The Marshall Islands themselves may be affected by typhoons in any month of the year, but tropical storms have been recorded very rarely between the middle of May and the middle of July. The risk of tropical storms decreases as one moves south, so westbound passages during the critical period should be made preferably in lower latitudes.

Westbound passages from the Marshalls are best planned for the early-winter months, when the chances of typhoons are lowest and the best winds can be expected. In Kosrae, the easternmost island in the Carolines, tropical storms are relatively rare and it is therefore a good first landfall. The large Majuro Lagoon is left through the Calalin Pass, from where the route passes a number of atolls. These may be visited only if permission to do so was obtained before leaving the capital.

At Kosrae, landfall is made off the east coast close to the pass leading to the port of Lele. Kosrae is the ideal place to start a cruise in the little-frequented Carolines, most of whose isolated island communities continue to have a traditional lifestyle. The mountainous island is surrounded by a barrier reef, which gives access to two ports: Lelu on the east side and Okat on the west. For boats coming from the east, Lelu is more convenient and this is also the main settlement. Before entering Lelu, Marine Resources should be called on channel 16 to arrange clearance.

The alternative is to stay on a more northerly course and sail directly from Majuro to Pohnpei. Approaching from the east, the Pohnpei Lagoon can be entered either through the Mant Passage, on the east side, or the Pohnpei Passage, on the NW side, to reach the commercial port close to Takatik Island. Kolonia Port Control should be contacted on channel 16 to request directions where to proceed to complete formalities. There are good facilities in Pohnpei and also a small marina at Mangrove Bay in Sokehs Harbour.

The next suggested stop on this westbound voyage is at Chuuk, another state in the Federation of Micronesia. Having made landfall on the east side of the atoll, the Northeast Pass leads into the large lagoon. The main settlement is Weno (formerly Moen) on the island of that name. The offices to be visited to clear in are close to the airport. On departure, the lagoon can be left by the Taualap Pass on the west side of the atoll.

From Chuuk, there is a wide choice of destinations for the continuation of the voyage. Those bound for Japan and the Asian mainland may prefer to call first at Guam, whose good range of repair and service facilities may be needed after this long voyage. Yap or Palau may be the preferred destination for those bound for the Philippines, or further destinations, such as Singapore.

The best sailing conditions will be experienced during the winter months when the NE trade winds are most constant. Although the incidence of tropical storms is lower in winter, in recent years the islands of Micronesia as well as the Philippines have been affected by typhoons even during the relatively safe period of January to March, so, as you move west, the weather should be monitored constantly.

• PN83 Guam to Palau

BEST TIME: | December to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | All year |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4052, US 52 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Southeast Asia Pilot, Landfalls of Paradise. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Apra 13°27.0’N, 144°37.5’E | Guam W 13°27.0’N, 144°35.5’E | [Yap SE] 9°28.3’N, 138°08.5’E |  | Colonia 9°29.4’N, 138°07.9’E | 451
|  | Palau E 7°22.0’N, 134°43.0’E | Malakal SE 7°14.5’N, 134°31.5’E | Malakal X 7°21.2’N, 134°29.0’E | 710

In this area of the North Pacific, no month can be regarded as completely free of tropical storms and, in recent times, one or more of these have passed through the area crossed by this route in every month of the year. This does not necessarily mean that typhoons can be expected to occur in every month, only that such a possibility cannot and should not be discounted. During the NE trade wind season, NE and E winds make this a fast downwind passage. Palau is just outside the typhoon belt, which extends as far south as 10°N. However, unsettled weather is not uncommon during the typhoon season even south of that latitude. The area is occasionally subject to strong SW winds, feeding into tropical disturbances as they form and pass from E to NW north of Palau.

From Apra Harbour, the direct route runs west of the Ulithi Atoll and east of Yap Island. If a stop in Yap is considered, landfall should be made SE of the atoll where a pass leads through the reef to Tomil Harbour and the capital Colonia. Visiting boats are normally directed to come alongside the quay in the smaller boat harbour.

Boats continuing to Palau should make landfall east of Babeltuap, Palau’s largest island. The official port of entry into Palau is Malakal Harbour on Koror Island and yachts must not stop anywhere before Malakal. Boats coming from the east should use the Malakal Passage, but this should be done at slack water because of strong tidal streams. A permit is no longer required for visiting cruising boats. After clearance, the Royal Belau Yacht Club is the best local source for assistance.

• PN84 Guam to the Philippines

BEST TIME: | January to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | All year |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4052, US 52 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Southeast Asia Pilot, Cruising Guide to Southeast Asia |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Apra | Guam W |  | San Bernardino NE | Legaspi X | 1222
13°27.0’N, 144°37.5’E | 13°27.0’N, 144°35.5’E |  | 12°53.0’N, 124°32.0’E | 13°09.0’N, 123°45.0’E |

The best weather conditions will be experienced during the winter months when the NE trade winds prevail over the entire area and the North Equatorial Current may also give an additional boost. As there is a risk of typhoons in the Guam area even in the first months of the year, this passage should only be started if the long-term forecast does not indicate the existence of any tropical depressions that may develop into a storm.

With Guam being on almost the same latitude as the Bernardino Strait, this shortest route across is recommended. Landfall will be made in the approaches to the Bernardino Strait from where one may proceed to Legaspi, the nearest port of entry into the Philippines.

• PN85 Guam to Japan

BEST TIME: | March to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | May to December (Japan), | all year (Micronesia) |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4052, US 52 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P39b Voyages via Micronesia |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PN85A |  |  |  |  |
Apra 13°27.0’N, 144°37.5’E | Guam W 13°27.0’N, 144°35.5’E | Ogasawara S 26°12.0’N, 142°00.0’E |  |  |
|  | [Chichi Shima W] | Futami SW | Futami | 838
|  | 27°05.0’N, 142°08.5’E | 27°04.9’N, 142°11.3’E | 27°05.8’N, 142 °12.0’E |
|  | Honshu S 33°51.0’N, 134°59.0’E Mino W 33°51.0’N, 134°59.0’E |  |  |
|  | Osaka SW 34°17.0’N, 134°59.0’E | Kansai SW 34°25.5’N, 135°11.0’E | Osaka 34°40.0’N, 135°22.5’E | 1423
Route PN85B |  |  |  |  |
Apra | Guam W | Okinawa S | Naha NW | Naha | 1245
|  | 26°01.5’N, 127°26.0’E | 26°14.0’N, 127°38.0’E | 26°13.4’N, 127°39.0’E |
|  | Okinawa NW 27°00.0’N, 127°33.0’E Okinawa NE 27°11.5’N, 128°42.0’E |  |  |
|  | Amami E | Koniya S | Koniya | 1491
|  | 27°49.0’N, 127°54.0’E Shikoku S 33°04.0’N, 134°14.0’E Mino W | 28°05.5’N, 129°22.8’E | 28°08.6’N, 129°18.8’E |
|  | Osaka SW | Kansai SW | Osaka | 1909

The best time to sail this passage is in March or April, when the weather starts to become warmer further north and the typhoon season has not started in earnest. However, typhoons can form just north of the equator at any time of the year in the Western Pacific, although with a good forecast from the US Navy’s Typhoon Warning Centre in Apra Harbour it is possible to depart from Guam knowing that good weather can be expected for at least the first few days.

Up to latitude 25ºN the prevailing winds are the NE trades, which can be quite boisterous in the late-winter months. Because of the high proportion of strong NW winds north of 30ºN, the passage should not be attempted before March. If it is found that the trade winds have too much north in them, one can ease the sheets and head for Okinawa (route PN85B), from where it may be easier to reach northern destinations by sailing in shorter stages through the Nansei Shoto Archipelago. See also PN63 and PN87.

Boats bound for Central Japan should attempt to sail the direct route that stays west of both the Marianas and the Ogasawara Gunto islands. In the latter, it is possible to stop at Chichi Shima, which is also recommended as a place to seek shelter if a typhoon does threaten during this passage. The main settlement on Chichi Shima is Omura, in Futami Ko, a well-protected bay. The island and harbour should be approached from the west. Boats bound for Osaka will make landfall south of the large island of Honshu and continue north through the large bay that leads NW to the Inland Sea and NE to Osaka. The best yachting facilities in Central Japan are concentrated in Osaka and the surrounding area, with several marinas strategically placed around the large bay. Wakayama Marina, on the east side of the bay and close to the international airport at Kansai, has some of the best facilities.

• PN86 Palau to Guam

BEST TIME: | December to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | All year |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4052, US 52 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Landfalls of Paradise |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Malakal X | Malakal SE | Palau E |  |  |
7°21.2’N, 134°29.0’E | 7°14.5’N, 134°31.5’E | 7°22.0’N, 134°43.0’E |  |  |
|  | [Yap SE] |  | Colonia | 261
|  | 9°28.3’N, 138°08.5’E |  | 9 °29.4’N, 138°07.9’E |
|  |  | Guam W | Apra | 710
|  |  | 13°27.0’N, 144°35.5’E | 13°27.0’N, 144°37.5’E |

As stated in directions for the reciprocal route (PN83), the risk of typhoons cannot be ignored in any month, although their highest frequency in the Guam area is during August and September. Unfortunately this is also the time when favourable winds can be expected on this route, which for most of the year is under the influence of the NE trade winds. The prevailing NE winds are reversed during the summer months by the SW monsoon, although this is never as steady as its NE counterpart and easterly winds can never be discounted on this route. If contrary winds persist, the voyage can be interrupted in Yap, which lies on the direct route to Guam. The port of entry into Yap is Colonia. It is also possible to stop at the Ulithi Atoll, but only if the boat has obtained a cruising permit in Colonia.

If consistent NE winds are encountered on leaving Palau, it is better to make as much easting as possible in the latitude of Palau, where there is also the chance of getting some help from the east-setting Equatorial Countercurrent.

On arrival at Guam, Port Control should be contacted on channel 16. Cruising boats are normally directed to the commercial dock in the NE part of the large harbour. Arrangements are in place here in case the island is threatened by a typhoon.

• PN87 Palau to Japan

BEST TIME: | February to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | All year (Palau), May to December (Japan) |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4052, US 52 |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PN87A |  |  |  |  |
Malakal X | Toagel | Palau W |  |  |
7°21.2’N, 134°29.0’E | 7°32.0’N, 134°29.5’E | 7°33.6’N, 134°23.7’E |  |  |
|  | [Chichi Shima W] 27°05.0’N, 142°08.5’E Honshu S 33°51.0’N, 134°59.0’E Mino W 33°51.0’N, 134°59.0’E | Futami SW 27°04.9’N, 142°11.3’E | Futami 27°05.8’N, 142 °12.0’E | 1272
|  | Osaka SW 34°17.0’N, 134°59.0’E | Kansai SW 34°25.5’N, 135°11.0’E | Osaka 34°40.0’N, 135°22.5’E | 1651
Route PN87B |  |  |  |  |
Malakal X |  | Okinawa S 26°01.5’N, 127°26.0’E Okinawa NW 27°0.0’N, 127°33.0’E Okinawa NE 27°11.5’N, 128°42.0’E | Naha NW 26°14.0’N, 127°38.0’E | Naha 26°13.4’N, 127°39.0’E | 1211
|  | Amami E | Koniya S | Koniya | 1389
|  | 27°49.0’N, 127°54.0’E Shikoku S 33°04.0’N, 134°14.0’E Mino W | 28°05.5’N, 129°22.8’E | 28°08.6’N, 129°18.8’E |
|  | Osaka SW | Kansai SW | Osaka | 1835

Those who are planning a northbound passage from Palau to Japan need to weigh up the safest period, which is late winter, against the cold and occasionally stormy weather at your destination. The best compromise is to sail in March or April, when the typhoon season has not yet started and the weather starts to become warmer further north. At that time of year, the winds up to about latitude 25ºN will be NE and E, but further north there is an increasingly higher percentage of NW winds, which in late winter and early spring can often be quite strong. For this reason, the passage should not be attempted before March, or a later arrival should be planned if you are heading for a more northern destination. Although it may be tempting to sail the shortest route if that destination happens to be in Central Japan, bearing in mind the above considerations, and especially if the trade winds have too much north in them, an appealing alternative is to sail instead to Okinawa. The weather in that part of Japan will not only be milder in late winter or early spring, but from there it will be easier to reach northern destinations by sailing in shorter stages through the Nansei Shoto Archipelago.

The direct route PN87A is a straightforward offshore passage that will pass well to the west of the Ogasawara Gunto Islands. However, if strong NW winds push you east of the desired course, or if an emergency requires it, a possible stop can be made at Chichi Shima, which lies in the centre of the Ogasawara Gunto chain of islands. The main town on Chichi Shima is Omura, located in the sheltered Futami Ko Bay. In its NE corner is a landlocked typhoon shelter. The island and harbour should be approached from the west.

Boats bound for Osaka will make landfall south of the large island of Honshu and continue north through the large bay that leads NW to the Inland Sea and NE to Osaka. Osaka and the surrounding area have some of the best yachting facilities in Central Japan, with several marinas spread out around the large bay. Wakayama Marina, on the east side of the bay and close to the international airport at Kansai, is one of the best endowed and is known for its hospitality to visiting sailors.

Route PN87B makes landfall south of the island of Okinawa, whose capital Naha has a good range of facilities and is ideally located for the start of a cruise through the scenic islands that stretch in an arc all the way to Kyushu Island. As in the case of the eastern route, a strategically located port of call with good amenities along this alternative route is Koniya on the island of Amami. Destinations in Western Japan as well as China, that can also be reached by this route, are described in PN63.

• PN88 Palau to the Philippines

BEST TIME: | January to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | All year |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4052, US 52 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Southeast Asia Pilot, Cruising Guide to Southeast Asia. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Malakal X | Toagel | Palau W | San Bernardino NE | Legaspi X | 729
7°21.2’N, 134°29.0’E | 7°32.0’N, 134°29.5’E | 7°33.6’N, 134°23.7’E | 12°53.0’N, 124°32.0’E Surigao 10°31.0’N, 124°32.0’E | 13°09.0’N, 123°45.0’E Cebu City X 10°17.0’N, 123°53.6’E | 668
|  | Agustin | Davao S | Davao | 577
|  | 6°10.0’N, 126°11.0’E | 6°10.0’N, 126°11.0’E | 7°04.0’N, 125°37.0’E |

The NE trade winds of winter usually ensure a fast passage, which is also aided by the favourable west-setting North Equatorial Current. Having reached the open ocean through the Toagel Mlungui Pass, the nearest destination in the Philippines is Davao on Mindanao Island. Also a port of entry is Cebu City, which can be reached through the Surigao Strait. Boats bound for ports in the Northern Philippines should use the San Bernardino Strait where Legaspi is the nearest port of entry. Because of strong tidal currents and confused seas in this area, it is recommended to enter the San Bernardino Strait on a slack tide. Passages during the summer months should be avoided both on account of the contrary SW winds and the high risk of typhoons.

• PN89 Micronesia to Hawaii

BEST TIME: | April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | June to November (Hawaii) |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4052, US 52 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to the Hawaiian Islands, Hawaiian Islands. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PN89A |  |  |  |  |
London | Kiritimati W | Kiritimati NW |  |  |
1°58.8’N, 157°29.0’W | 1°58.5’N, 157°30.0’W | 2°06.0’N, 157°32.0’W |  |  |
|  | Tabuaeran SW 3°46.5’N, 159°20.5’W | Tabuaeran NW 3°54.0’N, 159°26.0’W | Tabuaeran 3°51.4’N, 159°22.0’W | 171
|  | Palmyra SW 5°51.8’N, 162°07.4’W Palmyra NW 5°53.5’N, 162°08.5’W |  | Palmyra 5°52.5’N, 162°06.5’W | 366
|  | Oahu S 21°15.0’N, 157°51.0’W |  | Honolulu 21°16.7’N, 157°50.8’W | 1209

Direct passages to Hawaii from most islands in Micronesia are faced with consistent NE winds for most of the year, which pose a serious challenge to any cruising boat attempting to accomplish them. The only realistic strategy is to make the required easting where this can be achieved more easily, either by way of a detour into the area of westerly winds in higher latitudes or by heading south into lower latitudes and using the favourable current and light winds to make progress, if necessary with the aid of the engine. The decision as to which alternative to choose should not be left too late as the northern route is easier to plan from one of the western island groups, whereas the southern route is easier to accomplish from Kiribati or the Line Islands. No waypoints for the northern alternative (PN89B) can be suggested as the route sailed will be dictated entirely by existing conditions.

During summer, when the trade winds have more E and S in them in the latitude of the Marshall Islands, the northern alternative may look more attractive, although it must be stressed that if a nonstop passage to Hawaii proves to be too difficult, the only places where it may be possible to break it would be the islands of Wake and Midway. However, both of these are restricted islands used by the US military and only emergency stops are allowed. Even so, this does at least give the peace of mind that there is a place to get help in a real emergency. Those who decide to sail such a northern route from Majuro should set an initial course that stays almost due north to latitude 20ºN from where it curves NE, staying on the tack that makes most easting, but never below the latitude of Hawaii. In fact, it might be necessary to go well above latitude 25ºN to be able to make the required easting. The route passes close to Laysan, the most northwestern of the Hawaiian Islands, which is a bird sanctuary and has no safe anchorage. The only good anchorage close to this route is further south, at the French Frigate Shoals, but permission to call there must be obtained before a stop is attempted.

The southern route (PN89A) should be attempted in summer, when usually the winds are more easterly and also lighter. The immediate vicinity of the Line Islands is in the doldrums belt, which extends north to about latitude 8ºN. The Equatorial Countercurrent normally sets strongly to the east close to the islands and can be used to advantage to make some easting before heading into the NE trades.

Because of its protected lagoon and welcoming population, Tabuaeran (Fanning) Island is the best point of departure for a passage to Hawaii. Regardless of the point of departure, making some easting before the ITCZ is crossed is absolutely essential. Lying at the NW extremity of the Line Islands, Palmyra is closest to the ITCZ, which, in the summer months, can lie virtually on top of this island. If leaving from Palmyra, the same attempt should be made to gain some easting by sailing some distance on its latitude before turning north. Otherwise, only boats that can sail efficiently to windward will be able to sail on only one tack from Palmyra to Hawaii. With the exception of Palmyra, which is under US jurisdiction, all other Line Islands belong to Kiribati. Palmyra’s beautiful lagoon was once used as a military base, but the island is now a nature reserve and visiting yachts may only be allowed to make a brief stop there. A dredged pass lies on the west side and leads into the perfectly protected lagoon. A caretaker is in residence and, if contacted on channel 16, will give directions for the dredged channel. On the continuation of the voyage north, the risk of tropical storms should be borne in mind if the Hawaiian Islands are reached during the hurricane season. Landfall will be made south of Oahu Island where Honolulu has the best concentration of facilities in the islands.

TRANSEQUATORIAL ROUTES IN THE PACIFIC

PT10 | • | Transequatorial routes in the Eastern Pacific
PT20 | • | Transequatorial routes in the Central and Western Pacific

Unlike the Atlantic, where most cruising routes keep to the northern hemisphere and only a minority cross the equator, the equatorial region of the Pacific is criss-crossed by a multitude of routes. The busiest area is in the east, where boats starting off from Panama or the west coast of North America have to cross the equator to reach their destinations in the South Pacific. Although the Intertropical Convergence Zone is widest at its eastern end, the crossing of the doldrums is seldom a major problem and the zone itself is usually transited in a relatively short time. The doldrums only become a problem when their position and extent have not been assessed accurately and a course stays in the doldrums too long. The main objective is to intersect the ITCZ at right angles and the course should always be altered to achieve this whenever a route crosses the doldrums.

West of about longitude 150˚W, which is the longitude of Tahiti, the doldrums are very narrow and it is often possible to sail from one trade wind system into the next almost without interruption. Further west, transequatorial routes linking the two hemispheres seldom encounter true doldrum conditions, although the weather can be squally and unsettled where the two trade wind systems meet. Doldrum weather is also associated with the period between monsoons, especially in Papua New Guinea, where the arrival of the NW monsoon is always heralded by this kind of weather, particularly evident on routes to Micronesia. Another feature of the equatorial region of the Pacific is the complexity and unpredictability of the three main currents. All transequatorial routes are affected by them to a greater or lesser extent, and even if their behaviour cannot be predicted with accuracy, being aware of their existence can avoid unpleasant surprises.

Windgrams showing a summary of wind conditions along some popular cruising routes

San Diego to Galapagos, February
San Diego to Marquesas, March
Honolulu to Marquesas, March
Galapagos to San Diego, April

PT10 • Transequatorial routes in the Eastern Pacific

• | PT11 | Southbound from Panama and Central America | 344
• | PT12 | California and Mexico to Galapagos | 346
• | PT13 | Panama to Marquesas | 348
• | PT14 | California and Mexico to Marquesas | 349
• | PT15 | Pacific Northwest to Marquesas | 350
• | PT16 | Northbound from Galapagos | 351
• | PT17 | Galapagos to Hawaii | 353
• | PT18 | Galapagos to Micronesia | 354
• | PT19 | Tahiti and Marquesas to Panama | 355

PT10 Transequatorial routes in the Eastern Pacific

There is a higher percentage of transequatorial routes in this section than anywhere else in the world, with French Polynesia being the most common destination, whether for boats arriving from the Caribbean and the Panama Canal or the west coast of North America. Sailing conditions along most of them are generally favourable and, for those bound for the South Pacific, even the threat of tropical storms only becomes real westward from the Marquesas. Crossing the ITCZ in the Eastern Pacific is also less of a problem than elsewhere as the belt of truly doldrum weather is relatively narrow and the trade wind system dominating one hemisphere quickly gives way to its opponent.

Another great attraction of this vast area is the rich choice of alternative routes to reach some of the favourite cruising destinations, from the Sea of Cortez in the north to the Chilean Canals in the south, from Easter Island in the east to the Society Islands in the west. Welcome to the South Seas!

• PT11 Southbound from Panama and Central America

BEST TIME: | January to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4051, US 62 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P1a Voyages via Galapagos, P35 Voyages from Central America and Mexico
CRUISING GUIDES: | Polynesia, Pacific Crossing Guide, South Pacific Anchorages, Guide to Navigation in French Polynesia.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PT11A |  |  |  |  |
Balboa 8°56.5’N, 79°33.8’W | Panama S 8°51.07’N, 79°30.0’W | Panama SW 8°48.0’N, 79°30.0’W Panama SE 8°12.0’N, 79°14.0’W | Malpelo NE 3°59.5’N, 81°33.0’W | Malpelo 3°59.0’N, 81°35.3’W | 339
|  | Cristobal N |  |  |
|  | 0°36.5’S, 89°19.5’W |  |  |
|  | Cristobal W 0°46.0’S, 89°33.0’W Cruz NE 0°22.0’S, 89°57.0’W | Baquerizo N 0°53.0’S, 89°37.0’W | Baquerizo Moreno 0°54.0’S, 89°36.8’W | 870
|  | Cruz SE 0°45.0’S, 90°11.5’W | Camano S 0°45.07’S, 90°16.7’W | Puerto Ayora 0°44.07’S, 90°18.3’W | 897
Route PT11B |  |  |  |  |
Balboa | Panama S | Panama SE Ecuador NW 0°55.0’S, 81°07.5’W | Malpelo NE | Malpelo |
|  | Isla Plata W 1°16.0’S, 81°12.0’W | Santa Elena N 2°10.0’S, 80°54.5’W | Puerto Lucia 2°13.0’S, 80°55.2’W | 574
|  | Ecuador W 2°11.0’S, 81°02.0’W | Ancon W 2°20.0’S, 80°55.0’W | Guayaquil X 2°13.3’S, 79°53.0’W | 644
|  | Punta Parinas 4°36.0’S, 81°36.0’W Paita W 5°02.0’S, 81°12.7’W Peru NW 5°54.0’S, 81°28.0’W | Paita N 5°00.0’S, 81°10.0’W | Paita 5°04.5’S, 81°06.6’W | 760
|  | Peru W 11°28.0’S, 77°56.0’W | Callao NW 12°00.0’S, 77°17.0’W | Callao 12°03.0’S, 77°09.5’W | 1260

Southbound passages along the west coast of South America can be quite difficult because of persistent southerly winds and the contrary Humboldt Current, which sets north throughout the year. Sailing ships without an auxiliary engine used to make their way south along the coast only if bound for ports north of Callao, in Peru. For ports further south, the accepted tactic was to work their way offshore into the SE trade winds and then reach the coast with the help of the prevailing westerlies, found south of latitude 30ºS. As far as Chilean ports are concerned, this suggestion continues to be valid for modern yachts (see also PS14). Ports lying to the north of Callao can be reached from Panama without such a lengthy detour, provided one is prepared to make the most of every shift of wind and use the engine when necessary.

The most popular route leaving from Panama is that to the Galapagos Islands. Most boats bound for the South Pacific take advantage of the conveniently placed archipelago to make at least a brief stop in those islands made famous by Charles Darwin and now an important nature reserve. Cruising the archipelago on your own boat is only allowed with a special permit issued by the Ecuadorian authorities, which must be arranged well in advance. The services of a local agent are compulsory and the special permit must be applied for via an agent at least 60 days in advance of arrival. As the clearance formalities are very complicated, the agent should meet the boat on arrival and be present throughout. The most convenient official port of entry is Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristobal Island. After entry formalities have been completed it is possible to stop at three more designated ports: Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz, Puerto Velasco Ibarra on Floreana and Puerto Villamil on Isabela. Provisioning is relatively good in both Baquerizo Moreno and Puerto Ayora. Facilities for visiting yachts can only be described as rudimentary. There are regular flights from those ports to Guayaquil and the capital Quito with onward international connections. It is also at those two ports that some of the surrounding islands can be visited with a local excursion boat to gain at least a fleeting impression of their unique wildlife.

Genuine emergency stops are normally permitted at one of those two ports but the local port captain will carry out a stringent inspection of the boat to ascertain whether the stop is indeed justified.

Weather conditions on the direct route can be very varied, and regardless of the time of year an area of calms will probably be met on the way. It is therefore recommended to leave Panama with a good reserve of fuel to cope with the calms and also possible headwinds, for S or SW winds are common between the mainland and the Galapagos Islands.

In the Gulf of Panama the winds blow mostly from the north between October and April. From May to September, the winds are either westerly or variable. If SW winds are encountered after Cabo Mala, it is preferable to stay on the starboard tack and pass east of Malpelo Island to take advantage of the south-setting current in the Bay of Panama. By heading south parallel to the mainland coast, the chances of finding favourable winds are normally better. In this way, one will spend a shorter time in the doldrums than by sailing along the rhumb line. The north-setting current along the coast of South America starts turning NW and then W south of the latitude of the Galapagos Islands. The currents can be very strong in this area and this should be borne in mind when closing with the Galapagos Islands, as poor visibility in their vicinity and stronger currents than anticipated have put several yachts into difficulty.

Those who plan to visit ports along the west coast of South America before setting off across the South Pacific must be prepared to face a tough passage against wind and current. The major attraction of such a foray down the coast of South America is the opportunity to visit Ecuador and Peru as well as some rarely frequented islands such as Easter and Pitcairn, and to make landfall at the Gambier Islands in French Polynesia (route PS16).

The initial course from Panama passes west of Las Perlas and a stop in these attractive islands is only possible if permission had been requested when clearing out of Panama. The route continues due south to pass clear of Cabo Mala and is then altered to pass at least 50 miles to the west of Punta Galera, at the southern extremity of the Gulf of Panama. The Equatorial Countercurrent normally reaches into the Gulf of Panama and provides a favourable southerly set of at least 1 knot. South of the Gulf of Panama, the winds blow from between S and SW for most of the year. From December to March, the doldrums belt is furthest south and can extend west of Ecuador as far as the Galapagos Islands. Further south, along the Peruvian coast, the SE trade winds prevail for most of the year, although close to the coast the wind has more S than E in it. Gales are very rare in Peruvian waters and cyclones are unheard of. Due to the cold Humboldt Current, fog, mist and poor visibility are common close to the land.

Those who intend to continue sailing parallel to the mainland coast should choose the best tack to make as much southing as possible. As far as Guayaquil, it does not matter if the course is well offshore, as better conditions will be found 50 to 100 miles from the coast. For all boats, including those bound for Ecuador, the recommended route should stay at least 60 miles offshore as local boats fishing with unmarked long lines and large nets present a hazard further inshore. Boats bound for Salinas and Puerto Lucia Marina should only head inshore after having passed Isla Plata and approach the coast with due caution, especially at night. Southward from Guayaquil it is better to keep in with the coast to take advantage of the daily land and sea breezes. During periods of calm or light winds it may be necessary to motor to counteract the strong north-setting current.

There are several convenient ports along the Ecuadorean coast where one can stop for provisions or fuel, one of the best being Puerto Lucia Marina in La Libertad, near Salinas, which is a good place to leave the boat to visit the interior. A wider range of facilities will be found in Guayaquil, although this will entail a long detour up the river of that name. Guayaquil Yacht Club is based on the river shore and is the best source for local information. Formalities for visiting yachts in mainland Ecuador are easier and having a local agent is not compulsory, although having one might simplify matters. Ecuadorian regulations require that visiting yachts give 48 hours notice of arrival by emailing guayaquil_radio@dirnea.org listing a provisional sail plan, intended port of entry, ETA, boat and crew details.

In Peru, the fishing port of Paita is the northernmost port of entry. This is a convenient place to stop for fuel or provisions but has no other attraction. Callao is the port of the Peruvian capital Lima, and has a thriving yacht club where visiting sailors are assured of a warm welcome. There is a good range of repair facilities in this busy port.

• PT12 California and Mexico to Galapagos

BEST TIME: | March to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | Mid-May to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4051, US 51 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P3a Voyages via Galapagos, P35 Voyages from Central America and Mexico, P36 Voyages from North America
CRUISING GUIDES: | South Pacific Anchorages. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PT12A |  |  |  |  |
Los Angeles 33°44.2’N, 118°07.3’W San Diego 32°41.2’N, 117°13.8’W | Angeles S 33°39.0’N, 118°07.5’W Diego SW 32°37.0’N, 117°15.0’W | Angeles SW 33°19.0’N, 118°6.0’W Coronado 32°26.7’N, 117°19.5’W |  |  |
|  | Guadalupe NW |  |  |
|  | 29°19.5’N, 118°09.5’W Revillagigedo N 19°29.0’N, 110°51.0’W |  |  |
|  | Revillagigedo E 18°46.0’N, 110°53.0’W | Revillagigedo SE 18°42.5’N, 110°55.5’W | Revillagigedo 18°42.5’N, 110°56.8’W | 1026/968
|  | Revillagigedo SW 18°41.5’N, 110°57.0’W Darwin NE 1°40.0’N, 92°0.0’W Wolf E 1°23.0’N, 91°46.0’W Pinta W 0°33.0’N, 90°53.0’W Cruz N 0°22.0’S, 90°07.0’W |  |  |
|  | Cruz SE | Camano S | Puerto Ayora | 2671/2613
|  | 0°45.0’S, 90°11.5’W | 0°45.7’S, 90°16.7’W | 0°44.07’S, 90°18.3’W |
Route PT12B |  |  |  |  |
Cabo San Lucas 22°52.9’N, 109°54.3’W Vallarta 20°39.0’N, 105°15.0’W Manzanillo 19 °03.7’N, 104°18.7’W | San Lucas SE 22°52.5’N, 109°53.5’W Vallarta SE 20°38.0’N, 105°16.5’W Manzanillo W 19°03.5’N, 104°23.0’W | Vallarta SW 20°28.0’N, 105°51.0’W Manzanillo SW 19°0.0’N, 104°23.0’W |  |  |
|  | Mexico SW |  |  |
|  | 12°58.0’N, 97°07.0’W |  |  |
|  | Pinta W |  |  |
|  | Cruz N |  |  |
|  | Cruz SE | Camano S | Puerto Ayora | 1851/1620/1472

The optimum season when favourable weather conditions may be encountered on this route is only one of several considerations that will decide the time when this passage should be undertaken. Because the Galapagos Islands are only visited on the way to somewhere else, the first thing to consider is the time when one wishes to arrive at that final destination. If such a destination is in the South Pacific, where most islands are affected by tropical storms between November and April, one should not arrive there before the beginning of April. As the Marquesas are very rarely affected by tropical storms an early-April arrival is considered to be safe. Therefore the optimum time of departure from California is middle to late February. As this route crosses the hurricane zone off the coast of Mexico, this passage should not be made between May and October. In fact, better conditions will be experienced at the end of winter, with the possibility of strong winds right at the start. For this reason, boats are often sailed earlier in the year from northern ports to a marina in Southern California, as the southbound passage can start at almost any time from a port such as San Diego.

As the Galapagos are located nearly 30 degrees east of San Diego, a fair amount of easting needs to be made along this route, which, depending on the time of year when this passage is undertaken, may go through both the NE and some of the SE trade wind systems. As the winds in the vicinity of the islands blow from the southerly quarter for most parts of the year, it is advisable to try and make as much easting as possible while still under the influence of the NE winds. This means sailing an initial course that runs parallel to the continental coast. Boats setting off from places further south, such as Mexico, will experience better conditions and may have northerly winds almost as far as the equator. Depending on the time of year, the ITCZ will be encountered somewhere between 3ºN and 8ºN. Having crossed that area the winds will gradually become southerly.

From San Diego, the initial route runs parallel to the coast of Baja California, with several possible stops at such places as Ensenada, Cabo San Lucas or further south, at the Mexican offshore archipelago of Revillagigedo. From approximately 5°N the winds will become increasingly southerly and the west-setting Equatorial Current will also become noticeable. Landfall will be made close to Darwin, the northernmost of the Galapagos, from where the chain of islands is followed to your chosen destination.

Several departure points are listed for those leaving from Mexico. The need to make the required easting is not so important, but even so, the hypothetical waypoint Mexico SE is worth making for so as to approach the Galapagos from the north. On arrival, there is the choice of two ports of entry. Puerto Ayora is located on Santa Cruz Island, and as this is the hub of all tourist activities, facilities are the best. There is, however, just an open anchorage, often very crowded. Better protection is found at Baquerizo Moreno, which is the administrative centre of the islands. Cruising the islands on your own boat is not allowed and a special permit must be obtained in advance even for a short stop. The services of a local agent are compulsory who must apply for a permit at least 60 days in advance of arrival. Clearance formalities are very complicated and the agent should be present. The more convenient port for boats arriving from the north is Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island, but its open anchorage is crowded with local boats. A better alternative would be Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristobal Island. After entry formalities have been completed it is possible to stop at three more designated ports: Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz, Puerto Velasco Ibarra on Floreana, and Puerto Villamil on Isabela. Provisioning is relatively good in both Baquerizo Moreno and Puerto Ayora. Facilities for visiting yachts can only be described as rudimentary. There are regular flights from both ports to Guayaquil and the capital Quito with onward international connections. It is also at those two ports that some of the surrounding islands can be visited with a local excursion boat to gain at least a fleeting impression of their unique wildlife.

• PT13 Panama to Marquesas

BEST TIME: | February to June |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P1b Direct Voyages via the Marquesas |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4051, US 51 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Pacific Crossing Guide, Guide to Navigation in French Polynesia, Polynesia, South Pacific Anchorages.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PT13A |  |  |  |  |
Balboa 8°56.5’N, 79°33.8’W | Panama S 8°51.7’N, 79°30.0’W | Panama SW 8°48.0’N, 79°30.0’W |  |  |
|  | Panama SE | Malpelo NE | Malpelo | 339
|  | 8°12.0’N, 79°14.0’W | 3°59.5’N, 81°33.0’W | 3°59.0’N, 81°35.3’W |
|  | Hiva Oa SE | Atuona S | Atuona | 3590
|  | 9°48.5’S, 138°47.0’W Ua Huka E 8°58.0’S, 139°15.0’W | 9°49.0’S, 139°01.6’W | 9°48.3’S, 139°02.0’W |
|  | Tikapo S | Taiohae S | Taiohae | 3658
|  | 8°56.2’S, 140°01.0’W | 8°57.0’S, 140°06.0’W | 8°55.0’S, 140°06.0’W |
Route PT13B |  |  |  |  |
Balboa | Panama S | Panama SW Panama SE Malpelo E 3°58.0’N, 80°10.0’W Galapagos S 3°30.0’S, 89°42.0’W |  |  |
|  | Hiva Oa SE | Atuona S | Atuona | 3696
|  | Ua Huka E |  |  |
|  | Tikapo S | Taiohae S | Taiohae | 3758

Although the Galapagos Islands straddle the direct route to the Marquesas, some sailors decide to bypass them either to avoid dealing with the necessary formalities or, more often, because they wish to arrive in French Polynesia as soon as possible. The situation in the Galapagos has greatly improved, and although docking facilities are still absent, provisioning with fresh produce, and even fuel, is much better than in the past. Those who are determined to sail to the Marquesas direct, on leaving the Gulf of Panama must decide whether to pass north or south of the Galapagos Islands. From June to January it is advisable to pass north of the Galapagos, so as to avoid beating into the SW winds that may be expected after leaving the Gulf of Panama. This route PT13A, which stays north of the equator, has the advantage of the westerly set of the North Equatorial Current, which can be considerable. Between July and October the ITCZ can extend as far north as 10°N when it may be necessary to keep above that latitude to stay within the area of NE winds. Having reached meridian 110°W, the decision where to cross the equator needs to be taken and this should not be left too late so as to ensure that the winds south of the Line have the desired slant.

From February to May it is better to pass south of the Galapagos Islands. West of the Galapagos Islands, the best conditions are experienced during the SE trade wind season, between May and August. Reasonable conditions can also be expected earlier in the second half of March and April, when most of the passages along this route are made, as boats time their arrival in French Polynesia for the first half of April to coincide with the end of the cyclone season.

On leaving Panama, those who have decided to pass south of Galapagos on route PT13B, should set an initial course that passes west of Las Perlas Islands and then turns due south to pass clear of Cabo Mala. The route continues east of Isla Malpelo to take advantage of the south-setting current in the Gulf of Panama. Depending on weather conditions encountered up to that point, a course should be set to cross the equator at some point east of the Galapagos. A SW course should be sailed to pass about 100 miles south of the islands. Having reached meridian 95°W, depending on weather conditions, a great circle course can be sailed to your destination. If this is the island of Hiva Oa, landfall will be made east of Cape Matafenua, the eastern extremity of that island. From there, the route follows the coast into Taaoa Bay, in the NW corner of which is located the small port of Atuona. The harbour is protected by a short breakwater, but this does not offer much protection from the southerly swell. The entrance into the port is not easily identified at night so it is strongly recommended to arrive in daytime.

Those who decide to sail to Nuku Hiva should make landfall east of the island of Ua Huka. From there, the route follows to neighbouring Nuku Hiva, whose south coast is followed around Cape Tikapo towards Taiohae, the main port and capital of the Marquesas. Because of the prevailing winds and also the layout of the islands, it is better to stop first at Atuona and visit the islands in its vicinity before continuing to Nuku Hiva. Entry formalities into French Polynesia are completed at the local police station (gendarmerie).

• PT14 California and Mexico to Marquesas

BEST TIME: | February to May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April (South Pacific), May to November (North Pacific) |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4051, US 51 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P3b Voyages via the Marquesas |  |  |
CRUISI N G GUIDES: | Pacific Crossing Guide, Guide to Navigation in French Polynesia, Polynesia, South Pacific Anchorages. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PT14A |  |  |  |  |
San Francisco 37°49.0’N, 122°29.0’W Los Angeles 33°44.2’N, 118°07.3’W San Diego 32°41.2’N, 117°13.8’W | Francisco NW 37°48.0’N, 122°35.0’W Angeles S 33°39.0’N, 118°07.5’W Diego SW 32°37.0’N, 117°15.0’W | Francisco SW 37°40.5’N, 122°44.0’W Angeles SW 33°19.0’N, 118°06.0’W Coronado 32°26.7’N, 117°19.5’W |  |  |
|  | Hiva Oa SE | Atuona S | Atuona | 2880/2890/2850
|  | 9°48.5’S, 138°47.0’W | 9°49.0’S, 139°01.6’W | 9°48.3’S, 139°02.0’W |
|  | Nuku Hiva NE |  |  |
|  | 8°43.0’S, 139°53.0’W |  |  |
|  | Tikapo S | Taiohae S | Taiohae | 3020/2885/2850
|  | 8°56.2’S, 140°01.0’W | 8°57.0’S, 140°06.0’W | 8°55.0’S, 140°06.0’W |
Route PT14B |  |  |  |  |
Cabo San Lucas 22°52.9’N, 109°54.3’W | San Lucas SE 22°52.5’N, 109°53.5’W |  |  |  |
Vallarta 20°39.0’N, 105°15.0’W Manzanillo 19°03.7’N, 104°18.7’W | Vallarta SE 20°38.0’N, 105°16.5’W Manzanillo W 19°03.5’N, 104°23.0’W | Vallarta SW 20°28.0’N, 105°51.0’W Manzanillo SW 19°00.0’N, 104°23.0’W |  |  |
|  | Hiva Oa SE | Atuona S | Atuona | 2635/2725/2710
|  | Nuku Hiva NE |  |  |
|  | Tikapo S | Taiohae S | Taiohae | 2620/2760/2720

The majority of those who intend to sail this passage prefer to call at ports in Baja California or even further south before setting off on this long ocean passage, although this tactic does not necessarily ensure better sailing conditions. Therefore, unless one wishes to cruise along the Mexican coast, it might be better to make straight for the Marquesas. The time of arrival in the Marquesas should be considered before leaving, as a departure in November usually means an arrival in the Marquesas in the middle of summer, which is the cyclone season in French Polynesia. A better time of departure is between March and April, which ensures a winter arrival in the Marquesas at the most pleasant time of the year. At this time of year, winds along the entire route will be mostly favourable, with consistent N and NE winds for those starting from more northern destinations, becoming NE and E further south. Regardless of the point of departure, the great circle route would cross the doldrums at a slant and, if such a course is being sailed, this should be altered as soon as the doldrums are encountered so as to cut across them at right angles. During winter, NE winds will be experienced until close to the ITCZ, and as the length of this passage will depend greatly on how quickly you cross the doldrums, it is essential to find out the location of the ITCZ. The width of the doldrums varies from year to year and there are times when no doldrums are encountered, the NE trade winds giving way to the SE trade winds almost without a break. The ITCZ can be encountered anywhere between 3ºN and 10ºN, and is characterised by light winds and frequent squalls, some quite violent. Once through the ITCZ and across the equator, the SE trade winds should soon be encountered, and when this happens it pays not to be too close hauled, so the advice is not to cross the equator further west than 125ºW or 128ºW.

As mentioned in route PT13, there is a choice of two official ports of entry in the Marquesas. For those who have decided to arrive in the Marquesas in the more eastern of the two, Atuona on the island of Hiva Oa has the advantage of being upwind of most other islands in the archipelago and thus makes a better start for the subsequent cruise. Boats bound for Atuona will make landfall east of Cape Matafenua, the eastern extremity of Hiva Oa. The south coast of Hiva Oa is followed around into Taaoa Bay, where the small port of Atuona is located. The harbour is protected by a short breakwater, but this does not offer much protection from the southerly swell. The entrance is difficult to identify at night and so it is advisable to arrive in daytime.

Boats going straight to Taiohae, the capital of the Marquesas on Nuku Hiva, will have their first sight of the Marquesas when the small island of Ua Huka comes into view. The suggested landfall is NE of neighbouring Nuku Hiva. From there, the route follows its east coast around Cape Tikapo towards Taiohae, where entry formalities are completed at the local police station (gendarmerie).

• PT15 Pacific Northwest to Marquesas

BEST TIME: | April to May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | May to November (North Pacific), November to April (South Pacific) |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4050, 4051, US 50, 51 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P3b Voyages via the Marquesas |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Pacific Crossing Guide, Polynesia, Guide to Navigation in French Polynesia, South Pacific Anchorages. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Victoria | Fuca N | Fuca SW |  |  |
48°25.0’N, 123°24.0’W | 48°31.3’N, 124°43.0’W | 48°18.0’N, 125°07.0’W |  |  |
|  | Hiva Oa SE | Atuona S | Atuona | 3550
|  | 9°48.5’S, 138°47.0’W | 9°49.0’S, 139°01.6’W | 9°48.3’S, 139°02.0’W |
|  | Nuku Hiva NE |  |  |
|  | 8°43.0’S, 139°53.0’W |  |  |
|  | Tikapo S | Taiohae S | Taiohae | 3610
|  | 8°56.2’S, 140°01.0’W | 8°57.0’S, 140°06.0’W | 8°55.0’S, 140°06.0’W |

Sailing a direct route from the Pacific Northwest to the Marquesas may be the logical way to go for those who intend to start their South Pacific cruise in the Marquesas and Tuamotus. A detour via Hawaii cannot be recommended as it would then entail much windward work to reach the Marquesas. The best time to leave is in April or May, when the winter storms are usually over off the coasts of Washington and Oregon and there is enough time to get south of 10ºN before the start of the hurricane season in the Eastern North Pacific. An earlier start would appeal to those who wish to reach the Marquesas at or near the start of the safe season (April), but the initial weather conditions may not be enticing. However, this possibility should be considered if there is a good long-term forecast. It may also help to know that however hard the start, the rest of the passage will be quite pleasant. A later start is more risky as most of the hurricanes that form off the coast of Mexico follow a track that intersects this route. Also, arriving at your destination well into the safe season would mean that there will not be much time left before you need to think of the coming cyclone season.

During the first part of the passage the winds are likely to be NW or N and the current is also favourable. In May and June, the NE trade winds reach as far north as latitude 25ºN, although in some years they may only be found a few degrees further south. The doldrums are not too wide at this time of year, but if you are planning to motor through the ITCZ it is recommended to head slightly east of south, both to counteract the westerly set of the South Equatorial Current and also to be in a better position when the SE trade winds are met.

On leaving the coast it is essential to sail off the continental shelf as quickly as possible, as the seas are always rougher there. Therefore, the recommended tactic is to sail an initial SW course to move as quickly as possible off the continental shelf and into steadier offshore conditions. Having reached that point, a course can be set for the Marquesas. The next important decision is where to cross the equator so as to avoid having to beat into the SE trade winds south of the Line. As mentioned in route PT14, it is advisable to try and stay with the NE trade winds as long as possible. This tactic is particularly recommended in the early part of the year, before the SE trade winds are fully established south of the equator. In other months, a great circle route should be followed until the doldrums are reached. Normally NE winds will be experienced until close to the ITCZ, which will be encountered anywhere between 3ºN and 10ºN. If you manage to cross the ITCZ and also the equator without too much delay, the SE trade winds will ensure a fast passage for the rest of the voyage. As these winds may have some south in them, in order not to be too close hauled it is recommended not to cross the equator further west than 125ºW or, at the most, 128ºW.

Refer to PT13 and PT14 for landfall information.

• PT16 Northbound from Galapagos

BEST TIME: | December to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | May to November |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4051, US 51 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P31a Voyages via Galapagos |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Panama Cruising Guide, Costa Rica, Pacific Mexico, Mexico Boating Guide, Western Coast of Mexico. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PT16A |  |  |  |  |
Puerto Ayora 0°44.07’S, 90°18.3’W | Camano S 0°45.07’S, 90°16.7’W | Cruz SE 0°45.00’S, 90°11.5’W |  |  |
|  | [Malpelo S 3°57.5’N, 81°35.0’W Malpelo NE] 3°59.5’N, 81°33.0’W |  | Malpelo 3°59.0’N, 81°35.3’W | 558
|  | Panama SE 8°12.0’N, 79°14.0’W | Panama S 8°51.7’N, 79°30.0’W | Balboa 8°56.5’N, 79°33.8’W | 897
Route PT16B |  |  |  |  |
Puerto Ayora | Camano S | Cruz SE |  |  |
|  | Isla del Coco S 5°29.0’N, 87°04.5’W |  | Isla del Coco 5°33.2’N, 87°02.7’W | 537
|  | Isla del Coco NE 5°36.0’N, 86°57.0’W | Golfito S 8°22.0’N, 83°13.5’W | Golfito 8°37.0’N, 83°11.0’W | 832
Route PT16C |  |  |  |  |
Puerto Ayora | Camano S | Cruz SE Cruz NE 0°22.0’S, 89°57.0’W |  |  |
|  | Mexico SW |  |  |
|  | 12°58.0’N, 97°07.0’W |  |  |
|  | Manzanillo SW 19°00.0’N, 104°23.0’W | Manzanillo W 19°03.5’N, 104°23.0’W | Manzanillo 19°03.7’N, 104°18.7’W | 1472
|  | Vallarta SW 20°28.0’N, 105°51.0’W | Vallarta SE 20°38.0’N, 105°16.5’W | Vallarta 20°39.0’N, 105°15.0’W | 1620
|  | Baja SW 22°50.5’N, 110°05.0’W | San Lucas SE 22°52.5’N, 109°53.5’W | Cabo San Lucas 22°52.9’N, 109°54.3’W | 1851
Route PT16D |  |  |  |  |
Puerto Ayora | Camano S | Cruz SE Cruz N 0°22.0’S, 90°07.0’W Pinta W 0°33.0’N, 90°53.0’W Wolf E 1°23.0’N, 91°46.0’W Darwin NE 1°40.0’N, 92°0.0’W [Clipperton] 10°18.0’N, 109°11.0’W |  |  |
|  | [Revillagigedo SW 18°41.5’N, 110°57.0’W Revillagigedo SE 18°42.5’N, 110°55.5’W Revillagigedo E 18°46.0’N, 110°53.0’W Revillagigedo N] 18°41.5’N, 110°57.0’W [Guadelupe NW] 29°19.5’N, 118°09.5’W |  | Revillagigedo 18°42.5’N, 110°56.8’W | 1685
|  | Coronado 32°26.7’N, 117°19.5’W | Diego SW 32°37.0’N, 117°15.0’W | San Diego 32°41.2’N, 117°13.8’W | 2613

This is a selection of routes that may appeal to sailors who had made a detour from Panama to visit the Galapagos before continuing their voyage into the North Pacific. Route PT16A is of interest to those who intend to sail to Panama and who have the choice of doing it nonstop or with coastal stops in Ecuador and possibly Colombia. The timing of this passage will be dictated by plans after the Panama Canal has been transited, as the arrival in the Caribbean Sea should avoid the hurricane season, which lasts from June to November. Those who are heading due north from the Galapagos to destinations in Mexico are faced with a similar consideration as their passage should also avoid that same period when hurricanes pose a risk west of Mexico.

Depending on the time of year, the direct route PT16A may benefit from favourable S or SW winds in the initial stages, but will be faced with contrary winds in the Gulf of Panama. In that area the winds blow mostly from the north between October and April. From May to September, the winds are either westerly or variable. During the recommended time, there is a good chance of having S or SE winds almost as far as the Gulf of Panama, but once there, the winds will most likely be from NE or N. It is for this reason that it may pay to sail a more easterly course so as to approach the Gulf of Panama from the south as this would also mean that the ITCZ will be crossed at right angles. If you are pushed west of the desired route by the wind and current, a possible stop is the island of Malpelo. The island belongs to Colombia and a military post is occasionally manned. The island is popular with divers but visits are only allowed with a permit from the Colombian Ministry of Ecology. Emergency stops are tolerated but there is no sheltered anchorage.

Initial directions for route PT16B are similar, but with the added advantage of being able to call at Isla del Coco, which belongs to Costa Rica and lies close to the direct route to that country. The island is a nature reserve and the sea surrounding it abounds in wildlife amidst an underwater scenery described as breathtaking. The island attracts diving enthusiasts from all over the world but can only be visited with prior permission from the Costa Rican authorities. The only inhabitants are a few wardens. Anchoring without going ashore is usually tolerated and there are several good anchorages.

Route PT16C is bound for destinations in Mexico, and the NE and N winds that prevail north of the ITCZ during the latter part of winter suggest that passages that are sailed immediately after the end of the hurricane season, in November or December, may benefit from a reasonable proportion of E winds. Therefore, regardless of the time when this passage is sailed, it is advisable to favour an easterly course on leaving the Galapagos. However, such a route should avoid getting too close to the Mexican coast during the months with a high incidence of winter storms off the Gulfs of Papagayo and Tehuantepec.

Route PT17D is not only the longest but also the hardest as the best part of it will be sailed in an area of predominantly N and NE winds. There are two possible offshore stops along this route. Just north of the ITCZ and close to this route is Clipperton Atoll (10º17’N, 109º15’W), an uninhabited French possession, which is occasionally visited by meteorologists and other scientists. Clipperton is a protected nature reserve and both anchoring and landing are prohibited. Further north is the Mexican Revillagigedo Archipelago, which has two small naval stations on the main islands. Clarion, the westernmost of this island group, has a good anchorage on its south side.

For those bound for further destinations in California and beyond, the next route, which entails a long detour via Hawaii, may prove in the end to be a more acceptable alternative.

• PT17 Galapagos to Hawaii

BEST TIME: | December to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | May to November (North Pacific) |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4051, US 51 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P31a Voyages via Galapagos |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Hawaiian Islands, Cruising Guide to the Hawaiian Islands. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PT17A |  |  |  |  |
Puerto Ayora 0°44.7’S, 90°18.3’W | Camano S 0°45.7’S, 90°16.7’W | Cruz SE 0°45.0’S, 90°11.5’W Cruz N 0°22.0’S, 90°07.0’W Pinta W 0°33.0’N, 90°53.0’W Wolf E 1°23.0’N, 91°46.0’W |  |  |
|  | Darwin NE |  |  |
|  | 1°40.0’N, 92°00.0’W [Clipperton] 10°18.0’N, 109°11.0’W |  |  |
|  | Hawaii E | Hilo NE | Hilo | 4023
|  | 19°46.0’N, 154°55.0’W | 19°45.0’N, 155°2.5’W | 19°43.8’N, 155°05.0’W |
|  | Hawaii S | Oahu S | Honolulu | 4243
|  | 18°46.0’N, 155°41.0’W | 21°15.1’N, 157°51.0’W | 21°16.7’N, 157°50.8’W |
Route PT17B |  |  |  |  |
Puerto Ayora | Cruz S | Isabela SE | Villamil S | Puerto Villamil | 49
| 0°46.7’S, 90°18.0’W | 1°03.3’S, 90°53.3’W | 0°59.0’S, 90°58.0’W | 0°57.7’S, 90°58.3’W |
|  | Isabela SW |  |  |
|  | 1°11.0’S, 91°34.0’W |  |  |
|  | Hawaii E | Hilo NE | Hilo | 3967
|  | Hawaii S | Oahu S | Honolulu | 4187

There are two alternatives for a passage from Galapagos to Hawaii. One route stays south of the equator and sails due west until the time comes to cross the ITCZ. The other alternative is to head north immediately and make the entire passage north of the equator. The first alternative benefits from favourable conditions south of the equator but may encounter the NE winds north of the equator at a less favourable angle. The final decision depends on the time of year when this passage is sailed. In early northern winter (December to January), the ITCZ north of Galapagos is narrower than at other times of year and the NE winds will be met soon after the ITCZ has been crossed. As there is no risk of hurricanes at this time of year, this is probably the more attractive option. In summer (July to September), the ITCZ is at its widest north of Galapagos, and it tapers off further west. The southern option would therefore be more attractive for a summer passage, both because of having to cross a narrower band of doldrums and because less time will be spent in the area affected by hurricanes. However, these would still pose a risk closer to Hawaii.

In practice, more boats are sailing directly from Galapagos to Hawaii by taking a route that reaches, as soon as possible, the area of prevailing NE trade winds, rather than one of the alternatives mentioned in PN23, which describes the route options from Panama to Hawaii. Reference should be made to the tactics described for that route as not everyone may be prepared to sail the shortest route to Hawaii, as described here. The great circle route is a good tactic, especially during the winter months, provided one is prepared to motor through some of the almost unavoidable calms that will be encountered close to the ITCZ. Boats on a direct route can set a course along the great circle route right from the start and will most probably find the NE winds somewhere between latitudes 8° and 10°N.

The best port of departure is Puerto Ayora as it has the best facilities in the archipelago. From there, those who have decided to sail route PT17A should head north along the Galapagos chain of islands and continue in a generally NW direction across the ITCZ. A direct course for Hawaii can be set as soon as the NE winds have been met.

Boats sailing route PT17B should sail south of Santa Cruz Island and then due west, with a possible stop at Puerto Villamil on Isabela Island. The westerly course continues from there until the decision is taken at which point to head north and cross the equator. This should not be left much further west than 130°W to ensure a good sailing angle when the NE winds are met.

In Hawaii, the most convenient port of entry is Hilo. Making landfall at Hilo will make it easier to sail to the other islands with a favourable wind, especially as the winter trade winds can be very boisterous in Hawaiian waters.

• PT18 Galapagos to Micronesia

BEST TIME: | December to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | May to November (Eastern North Pacific), all year (Western North Pacific) |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4051, US 51 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P42a Voyages via Micronesia |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Landfalls of Paradise. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Puerto Ayora | Cruz S | Isabela SE | Villamil S | Puerto Villamil | 49
0°44.7’S, 90°18.3’W | 0°46.7’S, 90°18.0’W | 1°3.3’S, 90°53.3’W Isabela SW 1°11.0’S, 91°34.0’W Kiritimati SE 1°38.0’N, 157°01.5’W | 0°59.0’S, 90°58.0’W | 0°57.7’S, 90°58.3’W |
|  | Kiritimati E 1°50.0’N, 157°35.5’W Kiritimati NW 2°06.0’N, 157°32.0’W | Kiritimati W 1°58.5’N, 157°30.0’W | London 1°58.8’N, 157°29.0’W | 4090
|  | Tabuaeran SW 3°46.5’N, 159°20.5’W Tabuaeran NW 3°54.0’N, 159°26.0’W | Tabuaeran W 3°51.0’N, 159°23.0’W | Tabuaeran 3°51.4’N, 159°22.0’W | 4153
|  | Palmyra SW 5°51.8’N, 162°07.4’W |  | Palmyra 5°52.5’N, 162 °06.5’W | 4315

Directions for this route could be similar to those for the passage from the Galapagos to Hawaii as at certain times of year sailing north of the equator may appear to ensure better sailing conditions. However, as such an option entails possibly crossing the ITCZ twice, the southern alternative is both shorter and probably quicker. Sailing conditions should be mostly favourable during the recommended time, and such a timing will also fit in with the plans of those who intend to continue west from the Line Islands. The winter months are the safest time to sail in the area affected by typhoons west of the Line Islands, and an early departure from Galapagos will ensure an arrival in Eastern Micronesia at the most propitious time.

Having access to accurate weather information is essential in choosing the best route to sail as on leaving the Galapagos Islands the route needs to keep just south of the influence of the ITCZ. In practice this may mean sailing just north of the equator to get the maximum benefit from the favourable current and also SE winds. If the winds prove to be too light close to the equator, it may be necessary to stay south of the equator and only cross it when conditions warrant it, or when close to the chosen destination. The NE trade winds are more consistent during the northern winter months; if the SE trade winds prove to be too light, it may be advisable to sail the rest of the passage north of the equator.

The Line Islands belong to Kiribati and visiting boats are expected to make their first landfall at Kiritimati (former Christmas) Island to complete entry formalities. This is the main settlement in Eastern Kiribati, and has an airport and a limited range of repair facilities and provisions. The lagoon is too shallow for keeled boats, and therefore it is safer to anchor in the lee of the main island, west of the settlement of London, in GPS position 1°59.08’N, 157°28.33’W. Boats approaching from the south are warned that the GPS position of South West Point, and therefore of the island itself, is 1.4 miles further west than charted. The port authority should be contacted on channel 16 to request instructions for clearance.

The most attractive island of the small archipelago is Tabuaeran (formerly Fanning), which has a perfectly sheltered lagoon. The northernmost is Palmyra Atoll, which is a nature reserve under US jurisdiction. A caretaker and occasionally scientists are based on the island, where visiting yachts are normally allowed to make a brief stop.

• PT19 Tahiti and Marquesas to Panama

BEST TIME: | Mid-October to mid- | December |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4051, 4061, US 51, | 61 |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P24 Voyages from | Tahiti |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PT19A |  |  |  |  |
Papeete 17°32.6’S, 149 °34.8’W | Papeete N 17°32.0’S, 149°35.2’W | Tahiti NW 17°28.0’S, 149°35.0’W |  |  |
|  | Rangiroa E 15°16.5’S, 147°6.0’W Manihiki NE 14°10.0’S, 145°30.0’W | Rangiroa NE 14°56.5’S, 147°33.5’W | Rangiroa 14°58.5’S, 147°38.2’W | 237
|  | Nuku Hiva SW 9°00.0’S, 140°11.0’W Tikapo S 8°56.2’S, 140°01.0’W Nuku Hiva NE 8°51.0’S, 139°53.0’W | Taiohae S 8°57.0’S, 140°06.0’W | Taiohae 8°55.0’S, 140°06.0’W | 761
|  | Panama SE 8°12.0’N, 79°14.0’W | Panama S 8°51.7’N, 79°30.0’W | Balboa 8°56.5’N, 79°33.8’W | 4416
Route PT19B |  |  |  |  |
Papeete | Papeete N | Tahiti N 17°28.0’S, 149°30.0’W Tahiti NE 17°28.5’S, 149°18.5’W |  |  |
|  | Tubuai W 23°22.5’S, 149°33.5’W Ecuador W 2°11.0’S, 81°02.0’W |  | Mataura 23°21.0’S, 149°30.3’W | 375
|  | Santa Elena W |  |  |
|  | 2°10.0’S, 80°59.0’W |  |  |
|  | San Lorenzo N |  | Puerto Lucia | 4548
|  | 2°11.5’S, 80°57.0’W |  | 2°13.0’S, 80°55.2’W |
|  | Isla Plata W |  |  |
|  | 1°16.0’S, 81°12.0’W |  |  |
|  | Ecuador NW |  |  |
|  | 0°55.0’S, 81°07.5’W |  |  |
|  | Panama SE | Panama S | Balboa | 5125

This rarely used route is sailed by those who do not wish to reach the Atlantic either via Southern Chile and possibly Cape Horn or by the westbound trade wind route. Depending on the time of year, those who wish to reach Panama from Tahiti have to make their easting with the help of westerly winds of higher latitudes, or cut diagonally across the SE trade winds on a more direct but also more difficult route.

The more direct route PT19A via the Marquesas has been sailed successfully by a few boats in recent years. The Marquesas can be reached from Tahiti either by a direct route or stopping at some of the Tuamotus. The tactic on leaving the Marquesas is to head NE across the equator to pick up the east-setting Equatorial Countercurrent. The current should be found around 5°N. Conditions in October and November have been described as quite favourable as the general wind direction is from S or SE. As the wind may be very light a good supply of fuel should be carried.

The southern alternative can be sailed along two different routes. The first attempts to make easting by sailing through the islands of French Polynesia until a course can be set for Panama. The other alternative is to make such easting with the help of the westerly winds of higher latitudes.

The former alternative should be attempted when the SE trades are not so fully established, the best time being the southern summer from mid-October to mid-March. As this is the cyclone season in Tahiti, the weather should be carefully watched until one is out of the danger area. On leaving Tahiti a SE course should be sailed so as to pass to the south of the Tuamotu Archipelago. Having passed the Gambier Islands the route leads past Pitcairn Island, from where the great circle route is taken to Panama. Having closed with the South American coast, both wind and current become favourable.

The longer route PT19B can be sailed at all times of the year. From Tahiti, the course leads SSE through the Austral Islands until the area of prevailing westerly winds is reached. During the winter months (June to September), when the limit of the SE trade winds is furthest north, easting should be made between latitudes 28ºS and 32ºS. During the summer months it might be necessary to go as far south as latitude 35ºS to find consistent W winds. On reaching meridian 100ºW, the course becomes gradually NE until the SE trades are found again. The route then runs parallel to the South American coast taking advantage of the north-setting Humboldt Current. If such easting can be made in lower latitudes, Easter Island may be a convenient place to head for and also a good point to turn north.

PT20 • Transequatorial routes in the Central and Western Pacific

• | PT21 | Marquesas to Hawaii | 358
• | PT22 | Tahiti to Line Islands and Hawaii | 359
• | PT23 | Cook Islands to Hawaii | 361
• | PT24 | Hawaii to Tahiti and Marquesas | 362
• | PT25 | Hawaii to Samoa and Fiji | 363
• | PT26 | Tuvalu to Kiribati | 364
• | PT27 | Kiribati to Tuvalu | 365
• | PT28 | Northbound from Melanesia | 366
• | PT29 | Southbound to Melanesia | 368

Most transequatorial routes in this section are heavily influenced by the opposing tropical storm seasons and in fact many of those who cross the equator in one or the other direction do so to escape the threat of cyclones or typhoons in their own hemisphere. Whereas south of the equator the northern limit of tropical storms is fairly reliable, and cyclones only rarely occur north of 10ºS North of the equator typhoons have formed in or around the Carolines at almost any time of the year, making it much more important to watch the weather carefully at all times. However, there have been exceptions, such as Typhoon Vamei, which occurred in December 2001 and reached 1°30’N in the South China Sea. More recently, Hurricane Pali was not only the earliest Pacific hurricane on record, as it occurred in early January 2016, but also reached as far south as 2°N.

The crossing of the equator itself presents few problems as the doldrums in the Western Pacific are quite narrow and passages through the ITCZ, and from one wind system to the next, are quickly accomplished. The currents in the Western Pacific have a very complex pattern. The South Equatorial Current sets westward in a wide belt south of latitudes 4ºN to 5ºN. At the northern limit of this belt there is an abrupt reversal in the direction of the current. The east-setting Equatorial Countercurrent is relatively narrow and gives way to the North Equatorial Current. The latter sets to the west and, depending on the season, can affect an area between latitudes 7ºN or 8ºN and 15ºN. Occasionally it can extend as far north as 20ºN. The strength of these currents is about 1 to 1.5 knots, so when sailing any of these routes particular attention should be paid to the complex character of these phenomena.

PT20 Transequatorial routes in the Central Pacific

PT20 Transequatorial routes in the Western Pacific

• PT21 Marquesas to Hawaii

BEST TIME: | April, November |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April (South Pacific), May to November (Eastern North Pacific) |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4051, US 51 |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P18 Voyages from Tahiti |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Hawaiian Islands, Cruising Guide to the Hawaiian Islands. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Taiohae 8°55.0’S, 140°06.0’W | Taiohae S 8°57.0’S, 140°06.0’W | Nuku Hiva SW 9°00.0’S, 140°11.0’W Motu One E 7°54.0’S, 140°16.0’W |  |  |
|  | Marquesas NW |  |  |
|  | 7°54.0’S, 140°55.0’W Hawaii SE 19°31.0’N, 154°44.0’W |  |  |
|  | Hawaii E 19°46.0’N, 154°55.0’W | Hilo NE 19°45.0’N, 155°02.5’W | Hilo 19°43.8’N, 155°05.0’W | 1927
|  | Oahu S 21°15.1’N, 157°51.0’W |  | Honolulu 21°16.7’N, 157°50.8’W | 2086

This can be a fast and pleasant passage at almost any time of the year, although because of the opposing tropical storm seasons the two areas should be avoided during the critical periods. Ideally passages between the island groups should be made at, or close to, the change of seasons. While the risk of hurricanes is quite high north of the equator, tropical storms very rarely affect the Marquesas.

On leaving the Marquesas it is best to head N or preferably NE so as to arrive north of the equator with as much easting in hand as possible. As the logical point of departure is Nuku Hiva, from its west coast the route sets north to pass east of Motu One, a reef lying dangerously close to the recommended course. The same course will be maintained to cross the equator and until the NE trade winds are met. In April and May, the southern limit of the ITCZ is more or less on the equator, whereas in November it is further north at about 4° or 5°N. Presuming that the course sailed so far had followed the meridian of the Marquesas to maintain the required easting, once that latitude has been reached, the course may be altered for the port of destination. Boats bound for Hawaii Island should make landfall off Cape Kumukahi, at its eastern extremity. The most convenient port of entry is Hilo, as it is to windward of all other islands in the archipelago and therefore a perfect starting point for a cruise among the islands. Honolulu, on Oahu, because of its more western location, is better left for the end of a Hawaiian cruise.

• PT22 Tahiti to Line Islands and Hawaii

BEST TIME: | April, November |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April (South Pacific), May to November (Hawaii) |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4051, 4061, US 51, 61 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P18 Voyages from Tahiti |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Hawaiian Islands, Cruising Guide to the Hawaiian Islands. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PT22A |  |  |  |  |
Papeete 17°32.6’S, 149 °34.8’W | Papeete N 17°32.0’S, 149°35.2’W | Tahiti NW 17°28.0’S, 149°35.0’W | Oahu S 21°15.1’N, 157°51.0’W | Honolulu 21°16.7’N, 157°50.8’W | 2380
Route PT22B |  |  |  |  |
Papeete | Papeete N | Tahiti NW [Tetiaroa E] 17°01.0’S, 149°30.0’W Flint W 11°26.0’S, 151°50.0’W Malden W 4°01.0’S, 155°00.0’W |  |  |
|  | Kiritimati SE 1°38.0’N, 157°01.5’W Kiritimati NW 2°06.0’N, 157°32.0’W | Kiritimati W 1°58.5’N, 157°30.0’W | London 1°58.8’N, 157°29.0’W | 1303
|  | Tabuaeran SW 3°46.5’N, 159°20.5’W Tabuaeran NW 3°54.0’N, 159°26.0’W | Tabuaeran W 3°51.0’N, 159°23.0’W | Tabuaeran 3°46.5’N, 159 °20.5’W | 1430
|  | Palmyra SW 5°51.8’N, 162°07.4’W Palmyra NW 5°53.5’N, 162°08.5’W | Oahu S | Palmyra 5°52.5’N, 162°06.5’W Honolulu | 1610 2566
Route PT22C |  |  |  |  |
Papeete | Papeete N | Tahiti NW |  |  |
|  | Rangiroa E 15°16.5’S, 147°06.0’W Manihiki NE 14°10.0’S, 145°30.0’W | Rangiroa NE 14°56.5’S, 147°33.5’W | Rangiroa 14°58.5’S, 147°38.2’W | 237
|  | Nuku Hiva SW 9°00.0’S, 140°11.0’W Nuku Hiva NW 8°44.0’S, 140°21.5’W | Taiohae S 8°57.0’S, 140°06.0’W | Taiohae 8°55.0’S, 140°06.0’W | 761
|  | Motu One E |  |  |
|  | 7°54.0’S, 140°16.0’W |  |  |
|  | Hawaii SE |  |  |
|  | 19°31.0’N, 154°44.0’W |  |  |
|  | Hawaii E | Hilo NE | Hilo | 2690
|  | 19°46.0’N, 154°55.0’W | 19°45.0’N, 155°02.5’W | 19°43.8’N, 155°05.0’W |
|  | Oahu S |  | Honolulu | 2845

This passage is best made during the early austral winter months when there is no danger of cyclones in the Society Islands or the Tuamotus. During most of this period consistent trade winds are found south of the equator. The optimum time to leave Tahiti, or any other port in the Society Islands, is between April and May, when favourable conditions are usually encountered on both sides of the equator. If Tahiti is left after the end of May, the arrival in Hawaii will be during the hurricane season there, so attention should be paid to weather forecasts north of the Line Islands.

On leaving Tahiti, boats sailing route PT22A should set an initial course that passes east of the Tetiaroa Atoll. The course continues due north to pass to the west of all islands in the Tuamotus. The equator should be crossed at a point that will ensure a good sailing angle when the NE winds are met. For boats bound for Hawaii any easting made at this stage will be an advantage later on.

From Tahiti to about latitude 10ºS the SE trades often blow from E or even NE, but after latitude 10ºS is passed the winds are mostly SE, so that it becomes possible to choose the best point for crossing the equator. In these longitudes the SE winds extend beyond the equator for most of the year and the doldrums belt rarely exceeds a width of 100 miles. Sometimes the ITCZ is virtually non-existent, the transit from one trade wind system to the next being quite sudden. The NE trade winds are normally found around latitude 5ºN. The course should continue to be slightly to the east of the desired destination, both to allow for the west-setting current and to arrive to windward of your chosen landfall.

However tempting it might be to break the voyage in one of the Line Islands, as suggested on the reciprocal route from Hawaii to Tahiti, this may turn out to be a mistake as too much easting would be lost and the subsequent leg to Hawaii would most probably be hard on the wind. In spite of such difficulties, very few boats on passage to Hawaii miss the chance of visiting the Line Islands. Although some valuable easting will be lost, it should be possible to recuperate some of the lost ground while still south of the ITCZ, which in May is located close to the latitude of Palmyra.

Good sailing conditions will be encountered during the SE trade wind season. There are a number of uninhabited islands close to route PT22B and all have anchorages on their lee side, which provide reasonable protection from the prevailing winds for a short stop. If sailing direct to Kiritimati, formerly Christmas Island, landfall will be made SE of that island. Boats approaching from the south are warned that the GPS position of South West Point, and therefore of the island itself, is 1.4 miles further west than charted. Although Kiritimati has a lagoon, this is too shallow for keeled boats. The recommended anchorage is in the lee of the main island, just north of Bridges Point in GPS position 1°59.08’N, 157°28.33’W. Entry formalities will be completed in the main settlement called London.

As a former military base, Kiritimati is not as attractive as its neighbour to the north, Tabuaeran, formerly Fanning Island. This has a lagoon with a deep pass on its west side. It should be entered on a slack tide as there is a strong outflowing current at other times. There is a good anchorage SE of the pass, close to the main settlement called Napia, where formalities must be completed at both customs and the police station even if coming from Christmas. There is some confusion over the local names of these and other Line Islands. Christmas is now known as Kiritimati (pronounced Kirimas), Fanning as Tabuaeran, and Washington as Teraina. Yet another confusion is over the date observed in these islands, which, although lying to the east of the 180° meridian, keep the same date as that of Tarawa, the capital of Kiribati, which lies west of the Date Line; so because the Line Islands belong to Kiribati, they are one day ahead of both Tahiti and Hawaii.

One of the Northern Line Islands that does not belong to Kiribati and is under US jurisdiction is Palmyra. The beautiful lagoon was once used as a military base, but the island is now a nature reserve. The island should be approached with great caution as reefs and shallows extend in almost every direction. A dredged pass lies on the west side and leads into the perfectly protected lagoon. A caretaker is in residence and, if contacted on channel 16, will give directions for the dredged channel. Brief stops by visiting yachts are usually tolerated.

• PT23 Cook Islands to Hawaii

BEST TIME: | April, November |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April (South Pacific), May to November (Hawaii) |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4051, US 51 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to the Hawaiian Islands. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Anchorage 13°15.0’S, 163°06.5’W | Entrance 13°14.5’S, 163°05.9’W | Suwarrow NE 13°13.0’S, 163°00.0’W Penrhyn W 8°58.0’S, 158°05.0’W |  |  | 2271
Omoka 8°58.5’S, 158°03.0’W | Penrhyn W | Penrhyn NW 8°54.5’S, 158°04.0’W |  |  |
|  | Malden W 4°01.0’S, 155°00.0’W | Oahu S 21°15.1’N, 157°51.0’W | Honolulu 21°16.7’N, 157°50.8’W | 1888

Most boats that take this route through the Northern Cooks stop at one or more of these islands before heading north across the equator. As the Line Islands also lie on the direct route to Hawaii, it may be convenient to stop there too, with Tabuaeran (Fanning) and Palmyra having the best anchorages. The passage can be made in any month outside of the cyclone season, which should be avoided as the Northern Cooks have been hit by cyclones in the past. Conditions encountered north of the Cook Islands are typical doldrum weather, often squally, with thunderstorms followed by calms. Particularly unpleasant conditions have been encountered north of the equator during the North Pacific hurricane season, as the route passes through a breeding area for tropical depressions. The last leg, from the Line Islands to Hawaii, is mostly hard on the wind, especially north of latitude 10ºN where the NE trade winds are usually met. To avoid such headwinds, as much easting as possible should be made in the earlier stages of the passage.

A good departure point for this passage is Suwarrow. As the westernmost of the Northern Cooks, this attractive atoll is perfectly located to start the passage to some of its rarely visited neighbours to the NE, with Penrhyn being the most suitable as it also has a lagoon, accessible by a pass. From there, the direct route to Hawaii is almost due north and passes close to the Line Islands. However, the temptation to stop there may need to be resisted as this makes the subsequent leg hard on the wind. In order to cope with the NE winds that will be encountered north of the equator, it is imperative to make some easting while still south of the Line. To achieve this, a NNE course should be sailed from Penrhyn so that the equator is crossed well to the east of the Line Islands, ideally east of 150°W, or even 145°W. This tactic ensures a decent sailing angle across the NE trade winds when they are met.

Close to this suggested route is Malden, one of the Southern Line Islands. The uninhabited island still shows the scars of the tests carried out here in the 1950s. There is an anchorage in its lee, and a stop there would only amount to a short detour. Those who are determined to visit the Northern Line Islands should refer to PT22.

Due to those NE winds, the obvious landfall in Hawaii is Honolulu on Oahu Island. The best facilities in Hawaii are concentrated here, making Honolulu a perfect place to prepare for the continuation of the voyage.

• PT24 Hawaii to Tahiti and Marquesas

BEST TIME: | April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | May to November (North Pacific), November to April (South Pacific) |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4051, 4061, US 51, 61 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P4 Voyages from Hawaii |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Polynesia. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PT24A |  |  |  |  |
Honolulu 21°16.7’N, 157°50.8’W | Oahu S 21°15.1’N, 157°51.0’W | [Mataiva W] 14°50.0’S, 148°54.0’W [Tetiaroa E] 17°01.0’S, 149°30.0’W Tahiti NW 17°28.0’S, 149°35.0’W |  |  |
|  | Papeete N 17°32.0’S, 149°35.2’W |  | Papeete 17°32.6’S, 149°34.8’W | 2380
Route PT24B |  |  |  |  |
Honolulu | Oahu S | Motu One E 7°54.0’S, 140°16.0’W Nuku Hiva NW 8°44.0’S, 140°21.5’W |  |  |
|  | Nuku Hiva SW 9°00.0’S, 140°11.0’W Marquesas NE 7°57.0’S, 138°25.0’W | Taiohae S 8°57.0’S, 140°06.0’W | Taiohae 8°55.0’S, 140°06.0’W | 2086
|  | Hiva Oa SE 9°48.5’S, 138°47.0’W | Atuona S 9°49.0’S, 139°01.6’W | Atuona 9°48.3’S, 139°02.0’W | 2242

The first part of this passage can sometimes be unpleasant, particularly in winter, with strong easterly winds and high seas. Better conditions will be encountered at the recommended time. The weather improves as one moves south and winds become lighter. The width of the doldrums depends on the time of year, but in spring the ITCZ is normally quite narrow. Although the passage can be done at virtually any time of the year, it is advisable to plan the arrival in Tahiti outside of the cyclone season. April or May are considered to be the best months for the passage south, as the SE trade winds are not yet fully established south of the equator and the favourable season in the Society Islands, and the rest of the South Pacific, is just beginning.

The direct route to Tahiti passes close to the Line Islands where it may be convenient to break the journey, although a price may have to be paid for the stop by having to sail the rest of the voyage hard on the wind. Although NE trade winds will ensure fair winds to about latitude 5ºN, once the SE trades are encountered, headwinds are almost a certainty. This can be avoided by sailing a more SE course after leaving Hawaii. The route for nonstop passages to Tahiti passes west of Mataiva, the westernmost of the Tuamotus, and, near the end of the passage, east of Tetiaroa in the approaches to Tahiti. Landfall is made north of the entrance pass into Papeete. Port Control should be contacted on channel 12 before entering the harbour, and request permission to proceed to Papeete Marina.

On leaving Hawaii, those who intend to stop in the Marquesas should set a more SE course so as to cross the equator on the meridian of the Marquesas (140ºW), or preferably further east to ensure that the SE trade winds are met at a better angle. The route crosses all three equatorial currents and their combined sets will probably have a westerly resultant, which can make it difficult to cross the equator in the suggested longitude. Therefore it is essential to make as much easting as possible while still in the NE trades. Having crossed the equator, a direct course can be set for Nuku Hiva to make landfall off the island’s NE point. From there, the east and south coasts of Nuku Hiva are followed into the perfectly protected bay of Taiohae, the capital of the Marquesas. There is a choice of two arrival ports in the Marquesas, the other one being Atuona, on the island of Hiva Oa. Because of the layout of the islands in relation to the prevailing winds, it is usually better to clear in at Atuona, cruise the various islands from SE to NW, and visit Nuku Hiva at the end of the cruise. However, this means making even more easting on the passage from Hawaii, but it could be an early sacrifice that would be highly appreciated later on. Entry formalities into French Polynesia are completed at the gendarmerie (police station) at the port of arrival.

• PT25 Hawaii to Samoa and Fiji

BEST TIME: | April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | May to November (North Pacific), November to April (South Pacific) |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4052, 4061, US 52, 61 |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P12 Voyages from Hawaii |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | South Pacific Anchorages, Pacific Crossing Guide. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PT25A |  |  |  |  |
Honolulu 21°16.7’N, 157°50.8’W | Oahu S 21°15.1’N, 157°51.0’W | Palmyra NW 5°53.5’N, 162°08.5’W Palmyra SW 5°51.8’N, 162°07.4’W Tutuila NE 14°11.5’S, 170°30.0’W |  | Palmyra 5°52.5’N, 162 °06.5’W | 959
|  | Tutuila SE | Pago Pago S | Pago Pago | 2277
|  | 14°18.5’S, 170°32.8’W Tutuila W 14°19.0’S, 170°53.5’W | 14°18.0’S, 170°39.8’W | 14°17.0’S, 170°40.2’W |
|  | Upolu NE 13°40.0’S, 171°24.4’W | Apia N 13°46.0’S, 171°44.6’W | Apia 13°49.0’S, 171°45.5’W | 2347
Route PT25B |  |  |  |  |
Honolulu | Oahu S | Palmyra NW Palmyra SW |  | Palmyra |
|  | Canton N 2°44.0’S, 171°43.5’W Fiji NE 15°53.0’S, 179°16.8’W Taveuni N 16°26.5’S, 179°48.0’W Taveuni S 16°50.0’S, 179°53.5’E Vanua Levu SW 16°50.5’S, 179°15.0’E | Canton W 2°47.8’S, 171°44.1’W | Canton 2°48.0’S, 171°43.0’W | 1823
|  | Savusavu SW 16°49.6’S, 179°15.5’E | Savusavu W 16°46.6’S, 179°19.0’E | Savusavu 16°46.6’S, 179 °20.0’E | 2837

This route may appeal to sailors who need to reach destinations in the SW Pacific by the shortest route rather than the more popular route via Tahiti. Favourable winds will be experienced on this route for most months of the year, but as one should attempt to arrive in Samoa or Fiji outside the cyclone season, a late-spring or early-summer departure from Hawaii is probably best.

The direct route to Samoa passes close to Palmyra, at the NW extremity of the Line Islands, which would make an interesting stop. Palmyra is a nature reserve with a caretaker and, occasionally, a few scientists in residence, and permission to stop there should be requested in advance. See also PT22 for details of the other Line Islands.

The route to Fiji passes several other tempting places, such as the mostly uninhabited atolls in the Phoenix Archipelago, or those of the island nation of Tokelau. Any of these, as well as the French-administered Wallis and Futuna Islands, can be easily included if time permits such relatively small detours from the main route. See PS45 and PS46 for details on these places.

Depending on the time of year, the ITCZ will be crossed close to the Line Islands and SE winds should become established soon afterwards. Boats bound for American Samoa will make landfall north of Tutuila Island, in the approaches to Pago Pago. Boats bound nonstop for Apia, the capital of Samoa, should point further west and make landfall north of Upolu Island. Apia Port Control should be contacted by radio before territorial waters are entered.

The Fiji Islands will also be approached from the NE with a well-marked passage leading south through the Taveuni Pass and then west along the south coast of Vanua Levu to the nearest port of entry at Savusavu, where entry formalities into Fiji are completed. Although referred to as a marina, visitors will find no pontoons but only moorings in Savusavu. However, these have been proved in the past to be true cyclone moorings, so Savusavu is regularly used as a hurricane hole during the cyclone season.

• PT26 Tuvalu to Kiribati

BEST TIME: | June to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April (South Pacific) |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4052, US 52 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Landfalls of Paradise. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Fongafale 8°31.4’S, 179°11.6’E | Funafuti N 8°24.0’S, 179°06.0’E |  |  |  |
Nanumea 5°40.0’S, 176°08.1’E | Nanumea W 5°40.8’S, 176°07.3’E | Nanumea NW 5°38.0’S, 176°03.5’E |  |  |
|  | Kiribati S |  |  |
|  | 2°52.0’S, 174°47.0’E Maiana W 0°56.0’N, 172°49.0’E |  |  |
|  | Tarawa SW 1°18.5’N, 172°52.0’E | Tarawa W 1°25.0’N, 172°54.0’E | Tarawa 1°24.2’N, 172°56.0’E | 721/479

The passage between these two island nations can be made throughout the year, although the best sailing conditions can be expected from June to October, when winds are mostly from the easterly quarter. November to February is the rainy season in the islands when strong westerly gales are common. This is also the cyclone season in the South Pacific and Tuvalu has occasionally been struck by cyclones in the past. Especially during the westerly season, the currents among the islands are very irregular and their set impossible to predict. Generally the currents among the islands of both Tuvalu and Kiribati behave in an erratic way throughout the year and this should be borne in mind when sailing in these waters.

The direct course from Funafuti to Tarawa, the capitals of these two countries, passes close to several islands, but stopping at any of them can only be done if permission to do this has been obtained before leaving Funafuti. The best-protected lagoon is at Nukufetau, the nearest atoll north of Funafuti. Having left Funafuti lagoon through its northern pass, Te Ava i te Lape, those intending to sail nonstop to Kiribati should set a course to pass on the windward side of Nukufetau. As the route passes very close to several islands and reefs, such as Niutao, slight course adjustments will not only be unavoidable but essential on account of the strong currents that are occasionally experienced in this area. Another Tuvaluan island with a pass leading into its lagoon is Nanumea where visiting yachts are always assured of a warm welcome. Nanumea is indicated as an alternative port of departure on the premise that permission had been obtained before leaving the capital to make an intermediate stop there.

The islands of Kiribati straddle the equator, and although boats are supposed to clear in first at Tarawa, in an emergency boats may stop briefly at one of the southern islands, the safest anchorages being found in the lagoons of Onotoa, Tabiteua and Abemama, although in principle you should have cleared in first at the capital Tarawa. Having crossed the equator, the course becomes almost due north and passes to the west of Maiana to make landfall on the SW side of Tarawa lagoon close to the pass leading into it. Tarawa Radio should be contacted when approaching the island to give an ETA. Arriving boats should make their way into the small port at Betio, in the SW corner of Tarawa lagoon. When approaching Tarawa from the south, the island of Maiana should be treated with caution as it is wrongly depicted on the charts and the reef extending to the SW of the island is more extensive than indicated. In fact, the charted position of all islands in this area should be treated with a degree of suspicion as many are surrounded by dangerous reefs, the positions of which are often poorly charted, as the charts have not been updated for many years. This hazard is compounded by the fact that many of these reefs cannot be seen at night or in poor visibility.

There is a depth of only 1.80 m in the channel leading into Betio, so one may have to come alongside the commercial wharf on the way in, or anchor in the lagoon.

Although the northern islands of Kiribati are usually spared the effects of North Pacific typhoons, the southern islands can be affected – as happened during Cyclone Pam in March 2015.

• PT27 Kiribati to Tuvalu

BEST TIME: | June to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April (South Pacific) |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4052, US 52 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Landfalls of Paradise. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Tarawa 1°24.2’N, 172°56.0’E | Tarawa W 1°25.0’N, 172°54.0’E | Tarawa SW 1°18.5’N, 172°52.0’E Tarawa SE 1°16.0’N, 173°00.0’E Kiribati SE 2°44.5’S, 176°52.5’E |  |  |
|  | Funafuti N |  | Fongafale | 721
|  | 8°24.0’S, 179°06.0’E |  | 8°31.4’S, 179°11.6’E |

The directions for this route are similar to those for the opposite route PT26. If planning to stop at any of the southern islands of Kiribati, permission to do so should be obtained before leaving Tarawa. Most islands in Southern Kiribati have well-protected lagoons and a stop en route is highly recommended. Abemama, Tabiteua and Onotoa have the best-protected lagoons. The islands of Tuvalu provide fewer protected anchorages, with the notable exceptions of Nanumea and Nukufetau. But, as in the case of Kiribati, stops at any of the outer islands are only allowed if prior permission from the authorities in Funafuti, the capital of Tuvalu, has been obtained. After landfall is made north of Funafuti, the extensive lagoon is entered through the Te Ava i te Lape Pass. Formalities are completed at the commercial wharf, on the east side of the lagoon. Both repair facilities and provisioning here are very limited. An interesting island community to be visited on the way south is Nukulaelae, whose lagoon does not have a pass, making it necessary to anchor in its lee. Permission to call should be obtained before leaving Funafuti.

The period between the middle of October and the end of March should be avoided by those intending to stop in Tuvalu for any length of time as most anchorages are unsafe in strong westerly winds, which are common during this time. Although Tuvalu used to be considered to lie outside the cyclone zone, on rare occasions tropical storms have hit the islands. The worst of these in recent times occurred in January 2020 when Cyclone Tino caused considerable damage.

• PT28 Northbound from Melanesia

BEST TIME: | December to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | All year (Western North Pacific), November to April (South Pacific) |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4052, US 52 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Southeast Asia Pilot, Cruising Guide to Southeast Asia. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PT28A |  |  |  |  |
Madang 5°12.5’S, 145°48.0’E | Madang NE 5°08.0’S, 145°50.5’E | Karkar NW 4°20.0’S, 145°50.0’E Sonsorol NE 5°29.0’N, 132°21.0’E |  |  |
|  | Surigao 10°31.0’N, 125°38.0’E |  | Cebu City X 10°17.0’N, 123°53.6’E | 1662
Route PT28B |  |  |  |  |
Madang | Madang NE | Karkar NW | Malakal SE 7°14.5’N, 134°31.5’E | Malakal X 7°21.2’N, 134°29.0’E | 1066
Route PT28C |  |  |  |  |
Madang | Madang NE | Karkar NE 4°31.0’S, 146°13.5’E Manus NW 1°50.0’S, 146°10.0’E Gamen E 7°27.0’N, 144°45.0’E Faraulep W 8°35.0’N, 144°21.0’E |  |  |
|  | Guam SW 13°12.0’N, 144°37.0’E | Guam W 13°27.0’N, 144°35.5’E | Apra 13°27.0’N, 144°37.5’E | 1188
Route PT28D |  |  |  |  |
Rabaul 4°12.2’S, 152 °10.5’E | Rabaul S 4°16.5’S, 152°11.5’E | Rabaul E 4°14.5’S, 152°15.’E Rabaul N 4°05.5’S, 152°11.5’E Tingwon W 2°42.0’S, 149°22.0’E Mussau W 1°21.0’S, 149°12.0’E |  |  |
|  | Chuuk SE 6°56.0’N, 152°06.0’E | Chuuk NE 7°31.5’N, 152°03.5’E | Chuuk 7°30.3’N, 151°57.8’E | 932
Route PT28E |  |  |  |  |
Rabaul | Rabaul S | Rabaul E Rabaul N Tingwon W Mussau W |  |  |
|  | [Kapingamarangi S 1°01.2’N, 154°45.5’E Kapingamarangi E] 1°04.0’N, 154°50.0’E | Pass 1°01.8’N, 154°45.6’E | Kapingamarangi 1°02.8’N, 154°47.6’E | 654
|  | Pohnpei SW 6°44.5’N, 158°03.0’E |  | Pohnpei 6°59.0’N, 158°13.0’E | 1035
Route PT28F |  |  |  |  |
Rabaul | Rabaul S | Rabaul E Rabaul N Tingwon W Mussau W |  |  |
|  | [Kapingamarangi S |  | Kapingamarangi | 654
|  | Kapingamarangi E] |  |  |
|  | Kosrae SE | Kosrae E | Lelu |
|  | 5°15.5’N, 163°02.0’E | 5°19.6’N, 163°03.0’E | 5°19.8’N, 163°01.8’E | 1213

There is a wide variety of routes under this generic grouping, which covers a large area that stretches from the Philippines in the west to Eastern Micronesia. The only routes that have been dealt with separately are those from Hawaii and the Line Islands. Most of the routes in this section are sailed by those who are looking for a change of scenery from the islands of the South Pacific and intend to sail from Papua New Guinea to Micronesia and possibly continue to Japan and mainland Asia, or even to Hawaii and North America. A major difficulty associated with planning passages along most of these routes is matching the opposing cyclone seasons on the two sides of the equator. Whereas the austral winter (May to September) is the safe season in Melanesia, this is the worst period for typhoons north of the equator. Therefore on most routes a good time to cross the equator is either around the beginning or end of the typhoon season, and even at those times the weather should be monitored carefully, especially north of the equator where tropical storms can occur in any month. This has been the case in the Philippines on several occasions in recent years.

Passages to the Philippines are normally sailed during the NE monsoon, between November and March, when the risk of typhoons is low, especially in the southern part of the country.

Northbound passages to the Philippines or Western Micronesia sailed at the change of seasons, in November or early December, may encounter frequent calms south of the equator. The SE winds lose their strength as the equator is approached and the doldrums region entered. The width of the ITCZ varies with the time of year, but it is seldom wider than 100 miles, and can be crossed quickly by motoring through. North of the doldrums light northerly winds can be expected until about latitude 5ºN is reached, from where the NE trade winds will gradually take over. During the winter months, from December to March, the trade winds are stronger and more consistent in these lower latitudes, but they tend to become lighter and more variable with the approach of summer. The weather forecasts broadcast from Guam cover this entire region and can be very helpful during the typhoon season.

The South Equatorial Current sets westward in a wide belt south of latitudes 4ºN to 5ºN. At its northern limit there is an abrupt reversal in the direction of the current. The east-setting Equatorial Countercurrent is relatively narrow and gives way to the west-setting North Equatorial Current. The latter can extend from latitude 7ºN or 8ºN to 15ºN or even 20ºN, depending on the season. The strength of these currents is about 1 to 1.5 knots, so when sailing any of these routes particular attention should be paid to the complex character of these currents.

Madang is the best starting point for passages to the Philippines and Western Melanesia as it has a good range of facilities to prepare for the passage. The ports of Wewak or Vanimo, lying further west along the north coast of New Guinea, may also be considered, although their facilities are very limited. The initial course from Madang runs due north passing west of Karkar Island. From there, boats bound for the Philippines should set a new course to pass north of the Sonsorol Islands. Landfall is made NE of Mindanao Island from where the Surigao Channel is used to reach Cebu City, the nearest port of entry into the Philippines.

Boats bound for Palau (route PT28B) can set a direct course from Karkar Island and make landfall SE of Palau. The official port of entry is Malakal Harbour, reached through the Malakal Pass. The approaches to this pass are encumbered with reefs and landfall should only be made in good visibility. The Malakal port authority must be informed in advance of a yacht’s ETA.

Passages to Guam (route PT28C) will pass a number of reefs and atolls in Micronesia, those closest to the recommended route, Gamen and Faraulep, being avoided by a safe margin. Landfall is made SW of Guam in the approaches to Apra Harbour. On arrival, harbour control should be contacted on channel 16 for berthing and clearance instructions.

Because of the high incidence of typhoons that either hit Guam or form between the island and the equator, passages to Guam are usually timed during the northern winter. This is the time of the NW monsoon in New Guinea when the weather in the Bismarck Sea and northern islands of Papua New Guinea is less settled than during the rest of the year. Few boats attempt to sail this passage nonstop and there are various islands which can be visited en route. However, a series of typhoons, which have affected the islands of Micronesia during the supposedly safe period of November and December, provide a strong argument in favour of avoiding an arrival in this area before January.

Rabaul, on the island of New Britain, is another port of departure used by those who have spent some time cruising the islands of Papua New Guinea. The route to destinations in Central Micronesia reaches the open sea at Mussau Island, from where it fans out to Chuuk, Pohnpei or Kosrae.

The route to Chuuk (PT28D) passes west of the Mortlock Islands and makes landfall SE of Chuuk Lagoon, which is entered through the North East Pass. Formalities are completed at the main settlement on Weno Island.

The route to Pohnpei (PT28E) passes right by Nukuoru Atoll, which has a pass on its SE side, but stopping there may not be possible if permission has not been obtained from the authorities in Pohnpei. Also close to the direct route is Ngatik Atoll. Landfall at Pohnpei is made SW of the atoll from where the course turns due north passing east of Ant Atoll. There are several passes on the west side of Pohnpei to enter the lagoon and reach the main settlement and port of entry of Kolonia.

An earlier stop can be made at Kapingamarangi, where the Greenwich Passage, on the south side of the atoll, leads into the large lagoon. The passage is divided into two channels by a shallow patch. Tidal streams are very strong in the pass, which should be entered at or near slack water. Extreme caution should be exercised when approaching this atoll as it is reported to be 5 miles east of its charted position.

The route from Rabaul to Kosrae (PT28F) passes even closer to Kapingamarangi to merit a detour to this Polynesian outpost where visiting sailors are always warmly welcomed. Landfall at Kosrae is made SE of the island, whose coast is followed to the main pass that leads to Lelu Harbour. Entry formalities are completed at this fishing port which has the best facilities on the island.

• PT29 Southbound to Melanesia

BEST TIME: | January to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | All year (North Pacific), November to April (South Pacific) |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4052, US 52 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to South | East Asia. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PT29A |  |  |  |  |
Cebu City X 10°17.0’N, 123°53.6’E | Surigao 10°31.0’N, 124°32.0’E | Sonsorol NE 5°29.0’N, 132°21.0’E |  |  |
|  | Karkar NW 4°20.0’S, 145°50.0’E | Madang NE 5°08.0’S, 145°50.5’E | Madang 5°12.5’S, 145°48.0’E | 1662
Route PT29B |  |  |  |  |
Malakal X 7°21.2’N, 134°29.0’E | Malakal SE 7°14.5’N, 134°31.5’E | Karkar NE 4°31.0’S, 146°13.5’E | Madang NE | Madang | 1066
Route PT29C |  |  |  |  |
Apra 13°27.0’N, 144°37.5’E | Guam W 13°27.0’N, 144°35.5’E | Guam SW 13°12.0’N, 144°37.0’E Faraulep W 8°35.0’N, 144°21.0’E Gamen E 7°27.0’N, 144°45.0’E Manus NW 1°50.0’S, 146°10.0’E |  |  |
|  | Karkar NE | Madang NE | Madang | 1188
Route PT29D |  |  |  |  |
Pohnpei 6°59.0’N, 158°13.0’E | Pohnpei W 6°57.0’N, 158°01.5’E | Pohnpei SW 6°44.5’N, 158°03.0’E [Kapingamarangi E 1°04.0’N, 154°50.0’E |  |  |
|  | Kapingaramangi S] 1°01.2’N, 154°45.5’E New Ireland SE 4°46.0’S, 153°09.0’E | Pass 1°01.8’N, 154°45.6’E | Kapingamarangi 1°02.8’N, 154°47.6’E | 423
|  | New Ireland S 4°55.0’S, 152°48.0’E |  |  |
|  | Gazelle NE 4°17.5’S, 152°25.0’E | Rabaul S 4°16.5’S, 152°11.5’E | Rabaul 4°12.2’S, 152°10.5’E | 860
Route PT29E |  |  |  |  |
Majuro 7°08.0’N, 171°22.0’E | Majuro E 7°06.3’N, 171°24.3’E | Nauru NW 0°29.0’S, 166°55.0’E Nauru SW 0°33.5’S, 166°53.0’E |  | Aiwo 0°32.0’S, 166°53.5’E | 534
|  | Ndendo NW 10°42.3’S, 165°47.0’E | West Passage 10°37.0’S, 165°45.0’E | Graciosa Bay 10°44.0’S, 165°49.0’E | 1162
Route PT29F |  |  |  |  |
Tarawa 1°24.2’N, 172°56.0’E | Tarawa W 1°25.0’N, 172°54.0’E | [Banaba E 0°52.5’S, 169°34.0’E Banaba S] 0°53.5’S, 169°32.0’E | Banaba SE 0°52.9’S, 169°32.5’E | Banaba 0°52.2’S, 169°32.5’E | 256
|  | Ndendo NW | West Passage | Graciosa Bay | 899
Route PT29G |  |  |  |  |
Lelu 5°19.8’N, 163°01.8’E | Kosrae E 5°19.6’N, 163°03.0’E | Kosrae SE 5°15.5’N, 163°02.0’E |  |  |
|  | Ndendo NW | West Passage | Graciosa Bay | 990

The best time for passages from the Philippines and Western Micronesia to New Guinea is from October to March, so as to arrive there either after or before the SE monsoon (April to mid-October), thus avoiding contrary winds and the strong current that sets NW along the coast of New Guinea. During October and November little wind can be expected in the Bismarck Sea as the monsoon shifts from SE to NW. Boats leaving from Surigao should attempt to make some easting while still north of the equator so as to meet the SE winds at a better angle. It may be necessary to cross the equator in about longitude 145ºE or even 150ºE if planning to call at ports on the main island of New Guinea, or further east if bound for islands in the Bismarck Sea. This advice may not apply if the passage is made in September, when the SW monsoon is still in force north of the equator, and winds from that direction can be expected between Palau and latitude 5ºN. From there, the doldrums may extend as far south as latitude 1ºS. If the passage is in April or later, it is recommended to make as much easting as possible while still north of the equator, taking advantage of the easterly set of the Equatorial Countercurrent. The equator should be crossed in about longitude 150ºE, and allowance should also be made for the west-setting South Equatorial Current.

As in the case of northbound passages, the major difficulty that applies to all these routes is to match the opposing cyclone seasons on the two sides of the equator. The austral winter (May to September) is the safe and most pleasant season in Melanesia, but this is the worst period for typhoons north of the equator. A good time to cross the equator is either at the beginning or end of the typhoon season, but even at those times the weather should be monitored carefully, as occasionally typhoons have occurred even in months considered to be safe.

For boats coming from the Philippines and Palau, the most convenient ports of entry into Papua New Guinea are Vanimo and Wewak, both on the north coast of New Guinea, Lorengau on Manus (Admiralty) Island, and Madang. Rabaul is the recommended landfall for passages starting further east.

Those starting from Pohnpei and bound for Rabaul (route PT29D) should plan to stop at Kapingamarangi. This isolated Polynesian island is administered by Pohnpei, but because of its isolation, visitors are always welcome. The large lagoon provides good shelter and is entered by a pass through the reef.

Those who intend to reach destinations south of Papua New Guinea will find a convenient port of call at Graciosa Bay, on Ndendo Island in the Solomon Islands (routes PT29E, F and G). Formalities are completed at the police station in Lata.

Transequatorial passages from Majuro or Kosrae may be interrupted at Nauru, the once phosphate-rich island lying close to the suggested route. Facilities at Aiwo, Nauru’s main port, used to be meant for large ships but visiting yachts may use a ship’s mooring if available.

Another interesting stop is rarely visited Banaba, formerly known as Ocean Island. The island belongs to Kiribati and, like Nauru, used to have rich phosphate deposits that are now almost depleted. Visiting boats may be able to dock in the commercial harbour in Home Bay.

WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE SOUTH PACIFIC

The southeast trade winds

The majority of cruising routes in the South Pacific are dependent on these winds that blow over a large area of this ocean. The SE trade winds blow on the equatorial side of the high pressure area situated in about 30ºS. In the vicinity of South America the trade winds blow from between S and SE, but their direction becomes increasingly easterly in the western part of the ocean. In the vicinity of Australia the winds become SE again, especially during the winter months. During the summer months, from November to April, the trade winds are less steady over large parts of the ocean. West of about 140ºW, there are frequently winds from other directions, although the prevailing direction remains between NE and SE.

The average strength of the SE trade wind is 15 knots, although in some areas it can increase to 20 or even 25 knots. The strongest winds are experienced in the Coral Sea, where they reach 30 knots. However, the SE trade winds of the South Pacific are neither as steady nor as constant as the trade winds of other oceans. A continuous belt of SE winds blowing steadily across the entire ocean exists only during the months of June, July and August. During the rest of the year the force and direction of the trade winds is not so constant. In an area that is approximately 600 miles wide and stretches diagonally across the trade wind belt, from the Phoenix Islands through the Tuamotus as far as Easter Island, the direction of the wind often changes to the NE and is succeeded by calms. After a while the winds revert to blowing strongly from the SE and are frequently accompanied by heavy rain squalls.

Reinforced trade winds are a regional phenomenon and often bring stronger than expected winds. They occur mostly south of 10ºS and depend on both the location and intensity of the South Pacific High. Even stronger winds, usually from the south, are generated by the passage of a front. Ahead of such a front, the SE winds get lighter as they back to E and NE. The passage of a front generates SW winds, which gradually back to S and SE, often to be followed by a period of reinforced trades.

Intertropical convergence zone (itcz)

The northern limit of the SE trade winds is determined by the position of the ITCZ, which stays north of the equator throughout the year east of 160ºW. In the western half of the ocean, it moves to the southern hemisphere from about November to April, reaching furthest south in February, at the height of the southern summer. The movement of the ITCZ is most pronounced in the vicinity of Australia and Papua New Guinea, where the width of the doldrum belt can be greatest. On average it has a width of about 150 miles, but in some places it can be twice as wide, whereas in other areas it can be entirely absent. Weather conditions inside the zone are typical of doldrums everywhere, with calms or light variable winds alternating with rain squalls and thunderstorms.

South pacific convergence zone (spcz)

One special feature of South Pacific weather is the South Pacific Convergence Zone (SPCZ), which occurs during winter and stretches roughly ESE from 5ºS, 155ºE to 20ºS, 150ºW, and affects a large area between the Solomon Islands and Tahiti, particularly in the central area between French Polynesia and Tonga. The SPCZ, which should not be confused with the ITCZ, moves along the above area and affects weather conditions when it is active or when a front passes through it. The winds usually shift rapidly from NE to S and can reach gale force. The location of the SPCZ, and whether it is active or not, is mentioned in some local weather forecasts.

The northwest monsoon

During the summer months, prevailing NW winds blow over the Western South Pacific west of meridian 180º. The NW monsoon normally lasts from December to March, which coincides with the cyclone season. The areas mostly affected by the NW monsoon are the Solomon Islands, Papua New Guinea and Northern Australia. The direction of the wind is mainly N or NE near the equator, becoming NW or even W in more southerly latitudes. The NW monsoon is not consistent in either strength or direction, but at the height of the season, winds from between S and E are quite rare. The strength of the monsoon is light or moderate, although it can reach gale force in squalls, which are quite frequent. The weather is generally cloudy and overcast, with heavy rainfall. Close to the coast the direction of the wind can be greatly affected by local conditions.

Variables

An area of variable winds exists between the southern limit of the SE trade winds and the northern limit of the westerlies. This belt of variable winds extends from 25ºS to 40ºS during the summer months and from 20ºS to 30ºS during winter. The belt does not extend across the entire ocean and its position varies from year to year. East of about 85ºW, the prevailing winds are S or SE, being an extension of the SE trade winds. The strength and direction of these variable winds can vary considerably, although they tend to become stronger in higher latitudes.

Westerlies

The prevailing westerly winds or Roaring Forties predominate south of the South Pacific High, which is situated in about latitude 30ºS. In the west, these winds are influenced by the movement of anticyclones tracking east from Australia. The continuous passage of depressions from west to east causes the wind to vary greatly in both direction and strength. The westerlies are most consistent between latitudes 40º and 60ºS. Gales are common in winter, although strong winds can be experienced at any time of the year.

Regional winds

Williwaws are sudden violent katabatic gusts that descend from a mountainous coast to the sea. They are most common in the Chilean Canals and the Strait of Magellan.

Tropical storms

A large area of the South Pacific is affected by cyclones between November and May. The most affected area is south of about 8º to 10ºS and west of 140ºW, and covers a wide belt stretching all the way from Tahiti in the east to the Torres Strait in the west. The most dangerous months are January to March, when tropical depressions that develop over the Coral Sea or the Gulf of Carpentaria can turn into a cyclone. The number of tropical storms varies greatly from year to year, as do their tracks. In some areas within the cyclone belt, such as Tahiti, cyclones may not occur for many years, while in others, such as the Coral Sea, tropical storms have occurred occasionally outside of the accepted cyclone season.

Officially, the tropical storm season in the South Pacific is supposed to last from November to the end of April, but due to the current climate change the cyclone season is now considered to last longer. In recent years the Western and Central South Pacific has seen several extra-seasonal cyclones. In early July 2015 cyclone Raquel formed over the Coral Sea and caused extensive destruction in the Solomon Islands. Raquel was the first known tropical cyclone to occur in July. Early in May 2016 cyclone Donna was raised to a category 5 storm and caused widespread damage in Fiji. Donna was described as the strongest ever cyclone recorded in May. Donna was soon followed by cyclone Ella, which affected the islands of Samoa. So the risk of early or late cyclones should be taken into account by anyone planning to sail in the tropics close to the official cyclone season. This is particularly the case with regard to the Western Pacific and Coral Sea where in recent years cyclones have occurred in June and even July. Cyclone activity is also being recorded closer to the equator, as in the case of Cyclone Pam, which struck the islands of Tuvalu and Southern Kiribati in March 2015.

This points to a lengthening of the tropical storm season and the need not to plan a passage to the tropics too close to the start of the perceived safe season.

Between 26 and 28 September 2018, Cyclone Liua affected the Solomon Islands, while Cyclone Ann occurred between 11 and 15 May 2019 off Australia’s Queensland coast, two of several extra-seasonal cyclones recorded in the Coral Sea in recent years, an important factor to bear in mind when planning to cruise in such areas. The Western South Pacific has experienced several extra-seasonal cyclones that have occurred in June, July and September, a time of year that used to be regarded as the safe season.

The 2020–2021 season recorded six cyclones, among them three severe cyclones, thus confirming the trend towards more intense and destructive storms. Cyclones Yasa and Ana struck Fiji in January 2021 causing enormous damage, as did Cyclone Niran, which devastated parts of New Caledonia in March.

Currents

The main surface circulation of the South Pacific Ocean is anticlockwise. Around the edges of the South Pacific, the four components of this anticlockwise movement are the west-setting South Equatorial Current, the south-setting East Australia Current, the east-setting Southern Ocean Current and finally the north-setting Humboldt Current.

The South Equatorial Current has its northern limit from 1ºN to 5ºN depending both on season and longitude. The South Equatorial Current decreases in strength south of latitude 6ºS, although it maintains its westerly direction. Between latitudes 6ºS and 20ºS, this weaker current is known as the South Subtropical Current.

The Southern Ocean Current sets E or NE in higher latitudes. Most of this current flows into the Atlantic Ocean south of Cape Horn, but one part of it turns north along the west coast of South America to become the Humboldt Current. This cold current flows north towards the equator and eventually feeds into the South Equatorial Current. The flow of the Humboldt Current is sometimes reversed by the Equatorial Countercurrent.

El niño and la niña

For centuries the people of the fishing communities in northern Peru and Ecuador have used the term El Niño to describe an occasional warming of the offshore waters during December. The name was due to this phenomenon usually occurring around Christmas, and was therefore called El Niño or the Holy Child Current. El Niño is now used to describe extensive warming of the ocean surface across the Eastern and Central Equatorial Pacific. When this oceanic region switches to below normal temperatures, it is called La Niña.

In years when it is fully established, this warm current can greatly influence weather conditions not just in the Eastern South Pacific, but in the entire Pacific Basin – and indeed throughout the world. After the devastations caused by El Niño in 1982–1983, weather conditions were closely monitored when it occurred again in 1997–1998. As a result, this major natural phenomenon is now much better understood, and some of its effects can be predicted. It is now accepted that El Niño affects weather far beyond the South Pacific. It is still impossible to predict exactly when a new El Niño episode will occur, but the 20th century has seen altogether 28 episodes, so on average El Niño can be expected to strike every three or four years. Nevertheless, in an El Niño period, sailing during, or close to, the cyclone season should be avoided and, if at all possible, one should attempt to spend the critical period outside the tropical Pacific Ocean. The latest El Niño episode occurred between 2014 and 2016, with a weak phenomenon occurring in 2019.

South Pacific currents

When the ocean temperatures revert to a colder period this is now commonly referred to as La Niña. During a period of La Niña, the sea surface temperature across the equatorial Eastern Pacific Ocean can be lower than normal by 3° to 5°C. This colder water usually results in stronger trade winds in the Central South Pacific, larger swell and fewer tropical storms. During a La Niña episode, the mass of colder water from the Eastern South Pacific is pushed westwards by easterly winds and accumulates in the northwestern part of the South Pacific, such as the Coral Sea. The rapid evaporation of the cold water as it collides with the warm air mass can cause widespread climatic disturbances. This happened during the La Niña episode, in January 2011, when torrential rains caused disastrous flooding from Queensland to Sri Lanka. The latest La Niña episode occurred in 2020.

Tsunamis

Several tsunamis have been recorded in the South Pacific over the years. On 29 September 2009 a powerful 8.1 magnitude earthquake struck in the Central South Pacific causing widespread devastation in Samoa, American Samoa and Tonga, killing 200 people. Its effects were felt thousands of miles away. A powerful tsunami caused by an 8.8 magnitude earthquake in Chile on 27 February 2010 affected large areas of the Pacific Ocean and caused serious damage but no fatalities as far as Japan. On 6 February 2013 an 8.0 magnitude earthquake struck the Solomon Islands triggering a tsunami that killed five people in the Santa Cruz Islands.

In March 2021, a tsunami triggered by an 8.1 earthquake near the Kermadec Islands in the South Pacific affected coastal areas of New Zealand.

ROUTES IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC

PS10 | • | Routes in the Eastern South Pacific
PS20 | • | Routes in Eastern Polynesia
PS30 | • | Routes in Central Polynesia
PS40 | • | Routes in Western Polynesia
PS50 | • | Routes in the Central Pacific
PS60 | • | Routes from New Zealand
PS70 | • | Routes from Southern Melanesia
PS80 | • | Routes from Northern Melanesia
PS90 | • | Routes from New South Wales
PS100 | • | Routes from Queensland

No other region of the world exerts such a lasting fascination on sailors and non-sailors alike as the South Pacific. From the Bounty mutineers to Bernard Moitessier, many a sailor has succumbed to the irresistible temptation of the South Seas. This phenomenon is by no means limited to the past as every year other people fall in love with the South Pacific. Although jet travel and better inter-island communications have brought much of the South Pacific within reach of the outside world, there are still countless places that can only be reached by boat. For those travelling in this way, the South Pacific offers an unspoilt face, especially to those who are prepared to deviate from the well-trodden track. This vast expanse of water covering one-third of the earth’s surface is dotted with a myriad of tiny islands on which live some of the most remote and isolated communities in the world. Communications between most of the islands are usually by boat, although only in a few places are traditional sailing craft still in use. The small-boat voyager is therefore at a great advantage and one of the greatest satisfactions experienced while sailing in the South Pacific is the warm welcome extended by islanders to those arriving from the sea.

Sailing conditions in the South Pacific are unfortunately not always as idyllic as people expect, and the vagaries of the weather must be treated with as much caution as elsewhere in the world. Although the seasons are fairly well defined and there are few storms apart from tropical cyclones, which only occur in certain months and certain areas, the wind systems are less consistent than in other parts of the world. The SE trade winds, which affect most of the cruising routes across the South Pacific, are renowned for their fickleness and are often disappointing, especially to those who come from the Caribbean. There are years when the trades blow with surprising consistency, just as there are years when they come in spurts, either blowing at near gale force for weeks on end or being replaced by calms and squally weather.

One feature of South Pacific weather that many are not aware of is the South Pacific Convergence Zone (SPCZ). This unusual phenomenon, which occurs during winter, affects weather both on passage and while at anchor, so boats must be very much aware of it when anchoring in places where there is no protection from the SW, as this is the direction where the strongest and also unexpected winds come from, whether generated by a passing front or the SPCZ itself. The location of the zone is indicated in some of the local forecasts.

Generally, however, the weather encountered by the majority of those who cruise in the South Pacific is usually pleasant and only rarely uncomfortable or outright dangerous. The worst conditions are often encountered not on passage, but in port, usually by those who have either picked an unsafe anchorage or have decided to spend the cyclone season in the tropics. Both these dangers can be avoided, as there are sufficient safe anchorages available and the cyclone season can easily be spent outside the area affected by tropical storms.

Unfortunately, weather is not the only hazard faced by those who sail in the South Pacific, and in fact a much higher proportion of boats are lost every year because of other causes. The most obvious danger is the coral reefs, which extend to windward of many low, unlit islands, making navigation throughout the South Pacific a very difficult operation. This problem is often compounded by the presence of strong currents among some island groups. Every year the reefs of various archipelagos cause the loss of cruising boats, as do the cyclones that sweep through some of the same areas. Modern navigational equipment, a good dose of common sense and some advance planning can reduce such risks to an acceptable minimum, making a cruise in the South Pacific as safe as anywhere else.

The main cruising route across the South Pacific runs in a gigantic arc linking Panama with the Torres Strait. It has been affectionately nicknamed the ‘Milk Run’, an apt description, especially in the case of those who stick to it and avoid the cyclone seasons. The Germans call it more prosaically the ‘Barefoot Route’, underlining one of its greatest attractions for those who are used to sailing in colder climates. There are countless variations to this trunk route, with secondary routes branching off and rejoining it along its entire length. At its eastern end, the route is fed by a substantial influx of European and North American boats, most arriving directly in the Marquesas from Panama, the USA or British Columbia. At its western end, the route is joined by boats from New Zealand or Australia setting off on their world voyages. This truly international trunk road of the oceans continues into the Indian Ocean where it splits into two branches, one leading towards SE Asia and the Mediterranean, the other towards the Cape of Good Hope and the Atlantic Ocean.

The prime destination for practically any boat arriving in the South Pacific is French Polynesia and its main island Tahiti. Most people take the direct route there by way of the Marquesas, especially those who have reached the Pacific Ocean through the Panama Canal or whose home ports are on the west coast of North America. Some of the latter arrive in Tahiti via Hawaii. There is also the possibility of reaching Polynesia by a more roundabout way, via South America and Easter Island, a route that offers the chance to visit some of the remotest communities in the Eastern South Pacific, Pitcairn Island being perhaps the most famous among them. By this southern route it is also possible to visit some of the outer islands of French Polynesia before joining the main route in Tahiti. Finally, a number of boats make their way to Tahiti from New Zealand, their skippers undaunted by the tougher conditions associated with sailing in higher latitudes.

Lying at the centre of a network of routes, Tahiti offers several possibilities for the continuation of the voyage, although most people prefer to stick to the main trade wind route. A secondary route leaves from Tahiti across the equator to Hawaii, which is also the route taken by some of the boats returning to the west coast of North America. Several secondary routes branch off later on, the northbound routes leading mostly across the equator towards Micronesia. Having passed through the Cooks, Tonga or Samoa, the main route finally reaches Fiji, another major cruising centre. Fiji is at the centre of a number of routes, with the pattern in the SW Pacific becoming more complex. This area offers a great choice of destinations, with the added advantage of shorter distances between them. Undoubtedly the most popular destination in the SW Pacific is New Zealand, where a large number of cruising boats spend the cyclone season in the safety of North Island’s protected harbours. At the same time, many put their prolonged stay in New Zealand to good use by carrying out essential repair and maintenance work on their boats by taking advantage of the excellent facilities available. Such a stop, whether in New Zealand or in Australia, where facilities are equally good, should be included in their plans by all those who intend to spend longer than a year in the South Pacific.

Many people seem to reach a turning point in their voyages during their cruise in the South Pacific. A decision has to be made about the future and the solutions are not always obvious. North American and European yachts now sail the South Pacific in almost equal numbers, but when a return home has to be considered the choice for the Europeans is fairly simple. The obvious way is to carry on westabout around the world taking advantage of favourable weather systems. This is probably also the most logical solution for those whose home ports are on the US east coast. However, for those who hail from the west coast of North America and wish to restrict their cruising to the Pacific, the choices are less obvious. Every year boats arrive in the Western Pacific with their skippers at a loss as to the best way of getting back home. Some of these alternatives are described in the PS60 routes from New Zealand.

These are only some of the aspects that should be considered before planning a cruise among the islands of the South Pacific. Apart from wind and weather, the human side should also be considered. Since the arrival of the first Europeans three centuries ago, Pacific islanders have often been subjected to cruel treatment by outsiders, from blackbirding to nuclear testing and dumping. That they still receive us with open arms is a sign of their generosity and forgiveness. The South Pacific continues to be one of the most peaceful, non-polluted regions of the world and it is in our best interest to help keep it that way.

Hurricane holes

For those prepared to spend the cyclone season in the tropics (November to April) there are a number of hurricane holes spread out across the South Pacific. Only a few are proper hurricane shelters, and because of the large distances that separate the various island groups, running for shelter if a cyclone is predicted may not only be a hazardous affair, but you may also find that there is no space left when you get there. The best tactic is either to stay close to a chosen shelter or cruise on the edges of the cyclone belt, so as to be able to possibly sail out of danger. The area immediately south of the equator is considered safe, and, for example, could be easily reached by sailing north from the Marquesas towards the equator.

The risk of tropical storms increases as one moves west, and Galapagos and Easter Island are not affected by cyclones but they have reached as far east as Pitcairn, and northeast to the Marquesas, although the latter are very rarely hit by a fully fledged cyclone. The outer island groups of French Polynesia (The Gambier and Austral Islands) can be affected, but the risk is lower than in the Tuamotus, where adequate shelter is almost impossible to find in the large exposed lagoons. The Society Islands are struck by fewer cyclones than islands further west, but should nevertheless be avoided during the critical season. The few marinas are full with local boats, so the only possible shelters in Tahiti are the landlocked lagoon at Port Phaeton on the southwest coast and the anchorage behind the reef at the Tahiti Yacht Club in Arue, east of the capital Papeete. The two boatyards on the island of Raiatea normally store unattended boats on the hard, but during one cyclone several boats fell down and suffered extensive damage.

The marina at Rarotonga in the Cook Islands may provide shelter, but as space is limited the Cooks are best avoided. One of the best natural shelters is Port Refuge at Neiafu in Tonga’s Vava’u group, but as the holding ground is poor a cyclone-proof mooring is essential. This is the base for a large number of charter boats, so finding a vacant mooring may not be easy. The maze-like cruising area of Vava’u has a few sheltered corners, and boats survived a cyclone huddled in an anchorage off Tamana Island. In the Samoas, traditionally the best cyclone shelter is at Pago Pago, where several boats survived Cyclone Heta almost unscathed. More secure places are to be found in neighbouring Fiji, where cyclone-proof marinas have been built in recent years. On the island of Vanua Levu the two marinas at Savusavu have laid down a number of strong moorings, all of which performed well in Cyclone Ami. In the capital Suva, local boats have always sought shelter among the creeks and mangroves close to the Tradewinds Anchorage. On the west coast of Viti Levu, the marina at Vuda Point offers good protection in a circular basin that can be entirely closed off by an anti-surge barrier. For added protection, boats left on the hard have their keels dropped into a trench. A cyclone shelter has also been created in a completely landlocked basin at Musket Cove on the island of Malololailai. Further west, the land-locked natural harbour at Port Vila in Vanuatu offers adequate protection in a cyclone, as does Port Moselle Marina at Noumea in New Caledonia. In the Solomon Islands the best shelter is reported at Tulagi opposite the capital Honiara.

Windgrams showing a summary of wind conditions along some popular cruising routes

Galapagos to Marquesas, March
New Zealand to Fiji, May
New Zealand to Austral Islands, June
Fiji to New Zealand, October

PS10 • Routes in the Eastern South Pacific

• | PS11 | Ecuador to Galapagos | 378
• | PS12 | Galapagos to Marquesas | 379
• | PS13 | Galapagos to Easter and Gambier Islands | 380
• | PS14 | Ecuador to Peru and Chile | 381
• | PS15 | South America to Easter Island | 383
• | PS16 | Westbound from Easter Island | 384
• | PS17 | Easter Island to Southern Chile | 385
• | PS18 | Northbound from Chile | 386

The trunk route from Panama to Tahiti draws most of the boats that pass through this area, as very few boats venture south either to South America or towards such islands as Pitcairn or Easter Island. So a decision must be reached in Panama or Galapagos whether to stick to the direct route and sail to the Marquesas or make a detour to the south. The eastern part of the South Pacific is not affected by tropical storms, which means that it can be sailed at any time of the year. However, this unaffected area does not include the islands of French Polynesia, which should be avoided during the cyclone season between late November and late April. One good reason for a detour to the south is to avoid this critical period and the rewards of such a detour will make up for the longer passages, which should also benefit from favourable winds. The notable exception for those who decide not to sail an offshore route is to take the inshore route along the coast of South America, where both wind and current will be contrary. Undeterred by this, a small number of boats sail down the west coast of South America, rewarded for their efforts by the inland attractions of Ecuador, the sights of Peru and the grandeur of Southern Chile.

PS10 Routes in the Eastern South Pacific

• PS11 Ecuador to Galapagos

BEST TIME: | January to May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4051, US 51 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Pacific Crossing Guide, South Pacific Anchorages. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Puerto Lucia 2°13.0’S, 80°55.2’W | San Lorenzo N 2°11.5’S, 80°57.0’W |  |  |  |
Salinas |  | Santa Elena W |  |  |
2°12.2’S, 80 °58.4’W |  | 2°10.0’S, 80°59.0’W Cristobal S 1°00.0’S, 89°33.2’W |  |  |
|  | Cristobal SW 0°55.0’S, 89°40.0’W | Baquerizo NW 0°53.4’S, 89°37.2’W | Baquerizo Moreno 0°54.0’S, 89°36.8’W | 536/533
|  | Cruz S 0°46.7’S, 90°18.0’W |  | Puerto Ayora 0°44.7’S, 90°18.3’W | 573/570

Whereas in the past most boats bound for the South Pacific would sail directly from Panama to the Galapagos Islands, the improved safety situation in Colombia has led to an increase in the number of boats making a detour to mainland Ecuador before continuing to Galapagos. A good place to use as a base to visit Ecuador’s interior, and also to prepare the boat for the onward passage, is the marina at Puerto Lucia in La Libertad.

The passage from there to the Galapagos Islands presents no real difficulties as for most of the year the winds will be from S and SW, albeit very light, and the South Equatorial Current has a strong westerly set. The most convenient landfall is at the eastern extremity of the archipelago at Baquerizo Moreno, on the island of Cristobal, where entry formalities can be completed. Whether leaving from Puerto Lucia or the nearby resort of Salinas, from Punta Elena the direct route leads to Punta Negrito, the SW extremity of San Cristobal Island. Due care must be exercised in the approaches to Baquerizo Moreno in poor visibility, as there are various reefs in the approaches. An easier, albeit longer approach is to make landfall on the NE side of the island and approach the port from the north. The other alternative is to head directly for Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island by passing south of both San Cristobal and Santa Fe islands. However, Baquerizo Moreno has a better and less crowded anchorage than Puerto Ayora, which is the touristic centre of the archipelago. The Ecuadorian authorities are determined to protect the fragile environment of the Galapagos Islands and visiting boats are only allowed to stop there if they are in possession of a permit, which must be obtained in advance. The services of a local agent are compulsory at either of these ports to deal with formalities, even for boats arriving from mainland Ecuador.

• PS12 Galapagos to Marquesas

BEST TIME: | March to July |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4051, US 51 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P5a Voyages via Galapagos |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Polynesia, South Pacific Anchorages, Guide to Navigation in French Polynesia. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Puerto Ayora 0°44.7’S, 90°18.3’W | Cruz S 0°46.7’S, 90°18.0’W | Isabela SE 1°03.3’S, 90°53.3’W Isabela SW 1°11.0’S, 91°34.0’W | Villamil S 0°59.0’S, 90°58.0’W | Puerto Villamil 0°57.7’S, 90°58.3’W | 49
|  | [Intermediate] 8°00.0’S, 100°00.0’W Marquesas E 8°48.0’S, 137°27.0’W |  |  |
|  | Hiva Oa SE 9°48.5’S, 138°47.0’W Ua Huka SE 8°58.0’S, 139°28.0’W | Atuona S 9°49.0’S, 139°01.6’W | Atuona 9°48.3’S, 139°02.0’W | 2974
|  | Nuku Hiva SE 9°00.0’S, 139°57.9’W | Taiohae S 8°57.0’S, 140°06.0’W | Taiohae 8°55.0’S, 140°06.0’W | 3020

For most cruising sailors the passage from the Galapagos Islands to the Marquesas is their longest offshore passage and, if one is lucky with the weather, it can also be one of the most pleasant. Although the area lies under the influence of the SE trade winds for the best part of the year, weather conditions can differ drastically from one year to the next and the presence or absence of the El Niño phenomenon can exert a great influence on weather conditions in the eastern half of the South Pacific.

The most favourable period is from April to August when the trade winds usually blow steadily from the E or SE and the favourable west-setting current is at its strongest (1–1.5 knots). However, most sailors prefer to make this passage early in the year in order to make a good start to their sailing season in the South Pacific and arrive in the Marquesas before the end of March. In some years this can be a mistake as a cyclone can either be met on the way or after arrival in the Marquesas. In February 1983, Cyclone William reached a point nearly 1000 miles to the east of the Marquesas, its effects being felt by several boats sailing along this route at that time. Two cyclones were recorded in the islands in that year, although the frequency of cyclones in the Marquesas is relatively low and years can go by without the islands being hit by a fully fledged cyclone. On the occasions when they do occur, trees and other debris washed out to sea create additional hazards for small craft and caution should be exercised, especially at night. The most recent tropical storm recorded in French Polynesia was Cyclone Oli in February 2010. The severe storm caused extensive damage in Tahiti before curving south and affecting the Austral Islands. This route runs through an area where collisions with whales and attacks by whales have been reported, so it pays to treat whales with suspicion and not approach or make them feel threatened unnecessarily.

On leaving the Galapagos Islands, if the winds are favourable the recommended tactic is to sail the rhumb line to the Marquesas. In the absence of the SE trade winds, the best tactic is to sail a SSW course to find the wind. An area to be avoided, where frequent unsettled weather conditions have been reported, is between 3°S and 8°S, and 95°W and 100°W. This is only approximate and appears to be an extension of the doldrums, with similar characteristics: overcast grey skies, confused swell, frequent squalls, often accompanied by lightning but rarely rain. The best tactic is to motor through this area as quickly as possible. Once the critical area has been passed, the course can be altered for the port of destination. Normally the winds will be SE for the first half of the passage and more from the east in the second half. Squalls in the first part of the passage normally have little force in them, but they become more violent closer to the Marquesas. Occasionally there is a better chance of getting a favourable current by staying closer to the equator, whereas by heading south of 5°S too early less favourable conditions may be encountered. The decision of which initial course to sail depends entirely on existing conditions, and a reliable forecast makes such a decision much easier. Usually the weather gets better as the season progresses, with passages in March and April experiencing more unsettled weather than those in May or June.

Boats bound for Hiva Oa will make landfall east of Cape Matafenua, at the eastern extremity of the island, from where the south coast is followed around into Taaoa Bay, in the NW corner of which is located the small port of Atuona. The harbour is protected by a short breakwater but this does not provide much shelter from the southerly swell. The entrance into the port, although lit, is not easily identified at night, so it is strongly recommended to arrive in daytime. Those planning to stop first at Fatu Hiva are advised that it is not a port of entry and they may have difficulties with the authorities if stopping there without having cleared first at Atuona. Occasionally, during the peak period of arrivals, an officer has been dispatched to Fatu Hiva to deal with preliminary formalities, but this should be ascertained before stopping there.

Because of the layout of the islands, it is better to clear in at Atuona and sail from there to the various islands. Those who decide to sail directly to Nuku Hiva will make landfall at Ua Huka, Nuku Hiva’s eastern neighbour, from where the route continues due west. Having rounded Cape Tikapo, at the SE extremity of Nuku Hiva, the route enters the large protected bay of Taiohae, the main port and capital of the Marquesas.

The average length of this passage is 15 to 25 days. In the vicinity of both the Galapagos and the Marquesa Islands the winds can turn light even at the height of the trade wind season. On average, the slowest passages appear to be those made in the early part of the year, when light winds and calms are most common on this route. In some years no real trade wind conditions are experienced until May, although throughout the year the current along this route is favourable. Winds are stronger and steadier in the later part of the year and for those making this passage in October or even November it may be worth laying a course to the north of the rhumb line, as both winds and current can be more favourable nearer to the equator. However, such a late arrival in French Polynesia will coincide with the start of the cyclone season, which lasts from November to April.

• PS13 Galapagos to Easter and Gambier Islands

BEST TIME: | March to May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4051, 4061, US 51, 61 |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P5b Voyages via Easter Island |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Polynesia, South Pacific Anchorages, Guide to Navigation in French Polynesia. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS13A |  |  |  |  |
Puerto Ayora 0°44.7’S, 90°18.3’W | Cruz S 0°46.7’S, 90°18.0’W | Easter NW 27°02.0’S, 109°25.0’W | Hanga Roa NW 27°08.0’S, 109°27.0’W | Hanga Roa 27°08.8’S, 109°26.2’W | 1931
Route PS13B |  |  |  |  |
Puerto Ayora | Cruz S | Isabela SE 1°03.3’S, 90°53.3’W Isabela SW 1°11.0’S, 91°34.0’W Gambier NE 23°00.0’S, 134°25.0’W | Villamil S 0°59.0’S, 90°58.0’W | Puerto Villamil 0°57.7’S, 90°58.3’W | 49
|  | Gambier S 23°20.5’S, 134°58.5’W | Gambier SW 23°14.0’S, 135°03.0’W | Rikitea 23°06.3’S, 134°57.0’W | 2952

The few boats that take this route to the island of giant statues are usually rewarded by a fast passage with the SE trade winds on a beam or close reach. The best period is between December and May when the trade winds extend furthest south, although at such times it may take longer to reach the trade winds on leaving the Galapagos. This must be weighed up against the fact that the weather around Easter Island is more settled in the earlier months of the year. If sailing direct to Easter Island from Panama or other ports in Central America, similar directions apply for the first part of the voyage as for the routes to the Galapagos Islands. If S or SW winds are encountered south of the Galapagos Islands, it is advisable to stay on the starboard tack as far as latitude 3ºS before going on the other tack. South of that latitude, SW winds are rarely encountered as they gradually back to the south and eventually SE.

Boats leaving from Puerto Ayora, on Santa Cruz Island, should sail a course due south that passes east of Santa Maria (Floreana) Island. As mentioned in PS12, an area to be avoided south of the Galapagos is between longitudes 95ºW and 100ºW and latitudes 3ºS and 8ºS where unpleasant weather conditions have been reported. The area appears to be an extension of the doldrums with little or no wind, thundery squalls and a heavy swell, which makes conditions very uncomfortable. To avoid this area, if SW winds are encountered on leaving the Galapagos, it would be better to stay on the starboard tack for a while, even if it means temporarily diverting from the direct route. Depending on weather conditions, once the winds have settled in the SE, a course can be set to make landfall at Easter Island’s North Cape. From there, the coast should be followed to the main settlement of Hanga Roa. The small port at nearby Hanga Piko, south of Hanga Roa, has been improved, allowing a few keeled boats to find shelter. The port captain should be contacted on channel 16 to arrange for a local pilot to guide the boat into Hanga Piko. A pilotage fee is normally charged and boats are not allowed to enter the small port on their own. Using this port is only safe in settled weather and should be left immediately in W winds when it turns into a dangerous trap. For similar reasons, because of the rapidly changing weather, the port captain does not allow boats to be left unattended at the anchorage off Hanga Roa. A local fisherman will offer to take crews ashore in his own boat as landing through the heavy surf can be a hazardous experience. An alternative anchorage in unsettled weather is at Anakena, on the north coast.

Route PS13B eschews the well-sailed route from Galapagos to the Marquesas and allows you to reach French Polynesia from the SE rather than NE. Instructions are similar to those for the route from Galapagos to Easter Island, with the added advantage that as the Gambier Islands lie so much further to the west, the SE trades provide an even better slant for this route, which crosses one of the most deserted areas of the world. Landfall at Mangareva is made east of the large lagoon. Because of the reefs extending to windward of the lagoon, the contour of the reefs should be followed around to enter the lagoon through the Southwest Pass. Entry formalities in the Gambier Islands are completed at the police station (gendarmerie) in Rikitea. This is the main settlement in this remote island group.

• PS14 Ecuador to Peru and Chile

BEST TIME: | December to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4062, US 62 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P35 Voyages from Central America |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Chile. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS14A |  |  |  |  |
Puerto Lucia 2°13.0’S, 80 °55.2’W | San Lorenzo N 2°11.5’S, 80°57.0’W |  |  |  |
Salinas |  | Santa Elena W |  |  |
2°12.2’S, 80°58.4’W |  | 2°10.0’S, 80°59.0’W Ecuador W 2°11.0’S, 81°02.0’W Ancon W 2°20.0’S, 80°55.0’W |  |  |
|  | Guayaquil SW |  | Guayaquil X | 108/106
|  | 2°47.3’S, 80°16.0’W |  | 2°13.3’S, 79°53.0’W |
|  | Punta Parinas | Paita N | Paita | 202/199
|  | 4°36.0’S, 81°36.0’W | 5°00.0’S, 81°10.0’W | 5°04.5’S, 81°06.6’W |
|  | Paita W 5°02.0’S, 81°12.7’W Peru NW 5°54.0’S, 81°28.0’W |  |  |
|  | Peru W 11°28.0’S, 77°56.0’W | Callao NW 12°00.0’S, 77°17.0’W | Callao 12°03.0’S, 77°09.5’W | 692/689
Route PS14B |  |  |  |  |
Puerto Ayora 0°44.7’S, 90°18.3’W | Cruz S 0°46.7’S, 90°18.0’W | Espanola SW 1°26.00’S, 89°50.0’W |  |  |
|  | Punta Parinas Paita W Peru NW | Paita N | Paita | 617
|  | Peru W [Crusoe N 33°34.0’S, 78°49.0’W | Callao NW | Callao | 1070
|  | Crusoe E] 33°38.0’S, 78°44.0’W |  | Juan Bautista 33°37.3’S, 78°49.6’W | 2350
|  | Valdivia W 39°50.0’S, 73°30.0’W Chacao W 41°41.0’S, 74°02.0’W |  | Valdivia 39°52.5’S, 73 °24.8’W | 2525
|  | Chacao E 41°47.5’S, 73°31.0’W | Montt S 41°52.5’S, 72°59.5’W | Puerto Montt X 41°28.7’S, 72°56.0’W | 2684
|  | Magellan W 52°30.0’S, 75°20.5’W | Pilar 52°39.0’S, 74°41.9’W | Punta Arenas X 53°10.0’S, 70°54.0’W | 3365
|  | Beagle W 55°14.5’S, 70°26.0’W |  | Ushuaia 54°49.0’S, 68°17.0’W | 3493

Southbound passages along the west coast of South America are never easy, primarily because of the contrary Humboldt Current. However, in certain years, when the now notorious El Niño phenomenon plays havoc with weather conditions throughout the Pacific, southbound boats at least have the compensation that the north-setting current will either be totally absent or even replaced by a weak current in the opposite direction. In normal years, though, you have little choice if bound for ports in Peru other than to fight your way south, probably motorsailing against the current and light SE winds. Boats bound for ports in Chile may do better by following the tactic employed by the masters of sailing ships and taking a long port tack offshore until the prevailing westerlies of higher latitudes are encountered. Once those winds are found, the coast can be approached with a favourable wind. One interesting stop on such an offshore route is Robinson Crusoe, one of the Juan Fernandez Islands, which belong to Chile. From there, one has a wide choice of mainland ports. However, boats bound for the Pacific entrance into the Magellan Strait or Beagle Channel should remain offshore to take advantage of westerly winds.

The best port of departure in Ecuador, because of its good facilities, is Puerto Lucia in La Libertad, a seaside resort close to the north of Salinas. A good range of facilities are found also in Guayaquil, although this entails a long detour up the river of that name. Guayaquil Yacht Club is based on the river shore and visiting sailors are always welcomed.

The inshore route is quite unattractive as it follows the arid Peruvian coast where there are few ports. The first Peruvian port where it is possible to refuel or buy some provisions is Paita, although it has no other attraction. Those who do not need to stop should make for the port of Callao, serving the Peruvian capital Lima, which has good facilities and a welcoming yacht club. It is also a good place to leave the yacht to visit Peru’s interior.

Suggestions for southbound passages from Callao are similar, but, as distances to ports in Northern Chile are shorter, taking an offshore route has little attraction, unless one is bound for the south of Chile when an offshore route is recommended. There are many good ports along the Chilean coast; facilities are adequate in most of them so following the coast in stages presents no real problems. However, those who prefer to take a nonstop offshore route may have to go as far as 35ºS before being out of the influence of the SE winds and thus able to close with the coast. A recommended port, with a marina and good facilities, is Valdivia. Further south, Puerto Montt is the best place to start exploring the Chilean fjordland as it has a marina and a good range of repair facilities.

Boats bound for the Magellan Strait, which is entered at Cape Pilar, should avoid making landfall in heavy weather as the strong currents create rough seas at the entrance to the strait. Those who prefer to reach Tierra del Fuego by the quickest route should continue south and make landfall west of the Beagle Channel. This leads east to Ushuaia, an Argentine port serving as a hub for cruises in Patagonia and Antarctica.

• PS15 South America to Easter Island

BEST TIME: | November to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4062, US 62 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P5b Voyages via Easter Island |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | South Pacific Anchorages. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS15A |  |  |  |  |
Puerto Montt X 41°28.7’S, 72°56.0’W | Montt S 41°52.5’S, 72°59.5’W | Chacao E 41°47.5’S, 73°31.0’W Chacao W 41°41.0’S, 74°02.0’W |  |  |
Valdivia 39°52.5’S, 73 °24.8’W | Valdivia N 39°48.0’S, 73°26.5’W | [Crusoe E 33°38.0’S, 78°44.0’W Crusoe N] 33°34.0’S, 78°49.0’W |  | Juan Bautista 33°37.3’S, 78°49.6’W | 609/458
|  | Easter NW 27°02.0’S, 109°25.0’W | Hanga Roa NW 27°08.0’S, 109°27.0’W | Hanga Roa 27°08.8’S, 109°26.2’W | 2021/1953
Route PS15B |  |  |  |  |
Callao 12 °03.0’S, 77°09.5’W | Callao NW 12°00.0’S, 77°17.0’W | Easter NE 27°02.0’S, 109°12.1’W |  |  |
|  | Easter NW | Hanga Roa NW | Hanga Roa | 2036

Whichever point of departure is chosen, a passage to Easter Island from any port on the west coast of South America should present no great problem as favourable winds can be expected for most of the way. From ports lying to the north of Callao, a direct course can be sailed immediately on leaving the mainland as favourable winds are prevalent in this area during most of the year. Although, according to the pilot charts, Easter Island lies slightly outside the SE trade wind belt, the winds between the island and the continent tend to blow between E and S most of the time. A direct course can also be sailed from Chilean ports, but if westerly winds are encountered, a NW course should be sailed until the SE trade winds are found. The route to be sailed will be decided by the position of the South Pacific High, normally centred on 30°S. As the direct route may pass right through the high, in order to avoid being becalmed the recommended tactic is to sail an anticlockwise course around it. This could mean that much northing will be made in the early stages of the voyage so that the route actually sailed will pass close to Alexander Selkirk Island, which is named after the sailor who inspired the story of Robinson Crusoe. The Juan Fernandez Islands (Robinson Crusoe, Alexander Selkirk and Santa Clara) are dependencies of Chile and the main settlement is on Robinson Crusoe in Cumberland Bay.

Passages on route PS15A starting from ports in Southern Chile, or those who have cruised the Chilean canals of Patagonia, should initially sail along the coast of Chile with a favourable wind and current at least as far as Valdivia before going offshore. Valdivia has the best facilities in the area and is also a safe place to leave the boat to visit the interior. The general advice is not to set a course for Easter Island before the latitude of Valparaiso has been crossed as this will avoid straying into the South Pacific High, whose northern limit is located in approximately latitude 25°S in the early months of the year. The same course of action should be taken if planning to call at the Juan Fernandez Islands.

Passages on route PS15A starting from the Peruvian port of Callao can set a great circle route for a landfall on the NE side of Easter Island. The island’s north and west coast is followed around to the anchorage off the main settlement at Hanga Roa, where officials are based and should be contacted on channel 16. The small port at Hanga Piko, south of Hanga Roa, has room for a few keeled boats and provides better shelter than the open anchorage. Being open to the west, the port cannot be entered or left during periods of heavy surge. Boats are not permitted to enter this port without assistance, and the port captain should be contacted to arrange for a local pilot to guide the boat in. Because of the rapidly changing weather, boats are not allowed to be left unattended at the main anchorage off Hanga Roa. An alternative anchorage in unsettled weather is at Anakena, on the north coast.

• PS16 Westbound from Easter Island

BEST TIME: | March to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April (Western South Pacific) |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P5b Voyages via Easter Island |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Polynesia, South Pacific Anchorages. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Hanga Roa 27°08.8’S, 109°26.2’W | Hanga Roa NW 27°08.0’S, 109°27.0’W |  | Pitcairn NE 25°02.0’S, 130°03.0’W | Pitcairn 25°03.5’S, 130°05.0’W | 1119
|  | Pitcairn NW 25°02.0’S, 130°07.5’W Gambier SE 23°26.5’S, 134°24.0’W |  |  |
|  | Gambier S 23°20.5’S, 134°58.5’W | Gambier SW 23°14.0’S, 135°03.0’W | Rikitea 23°06.3’S, 134°57.0’W | 1420

This passage can be made at all times of the year as both Pitcairn and the Gambier Islands are rarely threatened by cyclones. However, the first months of the year should be avoided so as not to arrive in French Polynesia during the cyclone season there. The best sailing conditions can be expected either at the beginning or end of the southern winter. As this route skirts the southern extremity of the SE trades, weather conditions can be variable during winter months and westerly gales are not uncommon. The most settled weather is in summer, from December to May, when the SE trade winds extend furthest south. However, even during these months the trade wind pattern can be interrupted by spells of squally weather, rain and variable winds.

The direct course from Easter to Pitcairn Island passes to the south of Ducie and Henderson Islands, both of which are uninhabited. As they are nature reserves, landing is prohibited. A stop at Pitcairn is highly recommended as its isolated community is always happy to welcome passing yachts. The islanders monitor channel 16 and will send out a boat to take the crew ashore. They will also advise on the safest anchorage. The anchorage in Bounty Bay, on the north side of the island, should only be used in settled weather. Sometimes it may be possible to anchor at Tedside, on the west side. In NE winds, locals advise anchoring in the bay on the SW side of the island, but as it is encumbered with rocks, it should be approached with great care.

From Pitcairn, a direct course can be set for Mangareva. Because of the reefs extending to windward of the large lagoon, Mangareva should be approached with caution. The course follows roughly the line of the reefs and enters the lagoon through the Southwest Pass. In daylight and with good visibility it may be possible to use the Southeast Pass south of Aukena Island. A marked channel leads into the inner lagoon to the anchorage off the main village of Rikitea. Everywhere in the lagoon one should watch out for the buoyed oyster beds. In poor visibility or strong E winds, it may be advisable to use the Western Pass, between the islands of Taravai and Mangareva, as it has the best markings and is normally used by the supply ship from Tahiti. Entry formalities in the Gambier Islands are completed at Rikitea, the main settlement on Mangareva, the largest island of the group.

• PS17 Easter Island to Southern Chile

BEST TIME: | December to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4062, US 62 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P37 Voyages from Tahiti |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Chile. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Hanga Roa 27°08.8’S, 109°26.2’W | Hanga Roa NW 27°08.0’S, 109°27.0’W | Easter SW 27°12.5’S, 109°28.0’W Chacao W 41°41.0’S, 74°02.0’W | Valdivia W 39°50.0’S, 73°30.0’W | Valdivia 39°52.5’S, 73°24.8’W | 1946
|  | Chacao E 41°47.5’S, 73°31.0’W | Montt S 41°52.5’S, 72°59.5’W | Puerto Montt X 41°28.7’S, 72°56.0’W | 2016
|  | Magellan W 52°30.0’S, 75°20.5’W | Pilar 52°39.0’S, 74°41.9’W | Punta Arenas X 53 °10.0’S, 70°54.0’W | 2320
|  | Beagle W 55°14.5’S, 70°26.0’W |  | Ushuaia X 54°49.0’S, 68°17.0’W | 2465

The number of boats that use Easter Island as an intermediate port of call on a voyage to Southern Chile is relatively small. As in the case of passages to Cape Horn or the Straits of Magellan, Easter Island provides a convenient stop for those intending to reach their destination with help of the prevailing westerly winds of higher latitudes. The main objective after leaving Easter Island is to reach that area as quickly as possible. By taking advantage of every shift of wind it ought to be possible to make some easting even before the Roaring Forties are reached, from where fair, if strong, winds can be expected. The proportion of gale force winds in higher latitudes is greater during the winter months of June, July and August and passages during these months should be avoided. The recommended time not only has the benefit of better winds en route, but also ensures arriving in Southern Chile, Patagonia or Antarctica at the best time, which is at the height of the southern summer.

From Easter Island the initial course will head in a SSE direction. The main determining factor will be the position of the South Pacific High, which is normally centred on 30°S, but moves according to the season. Prevailing westerly winds will be found south of the high, possibly as soon as latitude 32°S is reached. A good landfall in mainland Chile is the town of Valdivia, which lies 11 miles up the river of the same name. A good starting point for a cruise among the fjords and straits of Southern Chile is Puerto Montt. To reach it, landfall should be made in the approaches to the Chacao Channel. This narrow body of water north of Chiloé Island is swept by extremely strong tidal currents of up to 8 knots. The channel should be entered at slack high water and should never be approached from the oceanside with a strong wind against the outflowing tide as the hazardous conditions could put a small boat in danger. Puerto Montt is located in a side branch of a large bay. Puerto Montt has a marina and a range of repair facilities making it a good base to prepare for a cruise through one of the most spectacular areas in the world. Those who are bound for the Magellan Strait or the Beagle Channel should refer to PS14.

• PS18 Northbound from Chile

BEST TIME: | November to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4062, US 62 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P23 Voyages from South America |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Panama Cruising Guide. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS18A |  |  |  |  |
Puerto Montt X 41°28.7’S, 72°56.0’W | Montt S 41°52.5’S, 72°59.5’W | Chacao E 41°47.5’S, 73°31.0’W Chacao W 41°41.0’S, 74°02.0’W |  |  |
Valdivia 39°52.5’S, 73°24.8’W | Valdivia N 39°48.0’S, 73°26.5’W | [Crusoe E 33°38.0’S, 78°44.0’W Crusoe N] 33°34.0’S, 78°49.0’W [San Felix] 26°17.0’S, 80°08.0’W |  | Juan Bautista 33°37.3’S, 78°49.6’W | 609/458
|  | [Callao NW] 12°00.0’S, 77°17.0’W |  | Callao 12 °03.0’S, 77°09.5’W | 1854/1762
|  | Punta Parinas 4°36.0’S, 81°36.0’W Ecuador W 2°11.0’S, 81°02.0’W | Guayaquil SW 2°47.3’S, 80°16.0’W | Guayaquil X 2°13.3’S, 79°53.0’W | 2497/2362
|  | Santa Elena W 2°10.0’S, 80°59.0’W Isla Plata W 1°16.0’S, 81°12.0’W Ecuador NW 0°55.0’S, 81°07.5’W | San Lorenzo N 2°11.5’S, 80°57.0’W | Puerto Lucia 2°13.0’S, 80°55.2’W | 2478/2337
|  | Panama SE 8°12.0’N, 79°14.0’W | Panama S 8°51.7’N, 79°30.0’W | Balboa 8°56.5’N, 79°33.8’W | 3067/2905
Route PS18B |  |  |  |  |
Hanga Roa 27°08.8’S, 109°26.2’W | Hanga Roa NW 27°08.0’S, 109°27.0’W | Isabela SE 1°03.3’S, 90°53.3’W Cruz SE 0°45.0’S, 90°11.5’W Cruz NE 0°22.0’S, 89°57.0’W | Cruz S 0°46.7’S, 90°18.0’W | Puerto Ayora 0°44.7’S, 90°18.3’W | 1937
|  | Panama SE | Panama S | Balboa | 2845

Northbound voyages from Chile can be sailed at any time of year as extreme weather conditions along the west coast of South America are virtually unknown. The start of this long passage will probably be dictated by the safest time of arrival at your chosen destination. Whether that destination is in Mexico or California, or in the Caribbean, these areas should not be reached during the hurricane season, which lasts from June to November.

There are two main alternatives for voyages that originate in the southern part of the continent. The inshore route follows the contour of the mainland and benefits from mostly light S or SE winds and the favourable north-setting Humboldt Current. There are several places to stop along the coast, with Callao in Peru, and Guayaquil and Puerto Lucia in Ecuador, being recommended.

Those who may not be attracted by the prospect of such a long and possibly slow passage may prefer to sail either the entire stretch, or only parts of it, by an offshore route that benefits from better sailing conditions. Indeed, this scenario may best suit those starting off from Southern Chile. They could stay inshore as far as Puerto Montt and reach the ocean through the Chacao Channel. From there, they should continue to cruise along the coast at least as far as Valdivia before going offshore. Valdivia has the best facilities in the area and is also a safe place to leave the boat to visit the interior.

From Valdivia, the route can continue offshore. The long passage can be interrupted at two rarely visited groups of islands belonging to Chile, both of which lie close to a northbound route: the Juan Fernandez Islands and, further north, the Desventuradas Islands. The former are inhabited and are known as the setting for the novel Robinson Crusoe, with a sheltered anchorage off the main settlement Juan Bautista. The aptly called Unfortunate Islands (Islas Desventuradas) are a group of barren islands with a small detachment of the Chilean Navy stationed on the main island San Felix.

A more challenging alternative is to make the longer detour to Easter Island to visit the most interesting of all Chilean offshore destinations. From Easter Island, the offshore route continues to another highly interesting offshore destination, the Galapagos Islands, and thence to Panama.

PS20 • Routes in Eastern Polynesia

• | PS21 | Gambier Islands to Marquesas | 388
• | PS22 | Marquesas to Tuamotus and Tahiti | 389
• | PS23 | Tahiti to Tuamotus and Marquesas | 390
• | PS24 | Marquesas to Northern Cooks | 391
• | PS25 | Tahiti to Austral Islands | 392
• | PS26 | Tahiti to Southern Chile | 393
• | PS27 | Gambier to Austral Islands and Tahiti | 394
• | PS28 | Gambier Islands to Tuamotus and Tahiti | 395

Whether arriving from the north (Hawaii), northeast (California or Panama), east (Galapagos), southeast (Easter or Pitcairn Island) or southwest (New Zealand), one should plan to arrive in French Polynesia not earlier than the end of April, when the cyclone season is on the wane and the SE trade wind season is about to begin. Such timing will ensure several months of carefree cruising before the onset of the next cyclone season. Those who arrive later in French Polynesia will find that the safe cruising season is well advanced in the rest of the tropics and there is only a limited time left for cruising before the start of the next cyclone season. Unless they are prepared to spend the summer in the tropics, they will have to be ready to push on and spend the coming cyclone season in New Zealand, or some other safe place outside the tropics. The alternative is to remain in the tropics during the summer, by staying close to one of the relatively safe harbours downwind from Tahiti, such as Pago Pago (American Samoa), Vava’u (Tonga) or Savusavu (Fiji). For those who decide to stay in the Society Islands, there are several harbours that are reputed to be safe in a cyclone. Indeed, many sailors plan to spend the cyclone season there, as several years can go by without a cyclone hitting these islands, but when a cyclone comes this way it can wreak havoc. If you are prepared to take this risk and stay in French Polynesia during the critical period from December to March, it is essential to try to be near one of the places regarded as safe. The most recent tropical storm recorded in French Polynesia was Cyclone Oli in February 2010. The severe storm caused extensive damage in Tahiti before curving south and affecting the Austral Islands.

Even without the danger of cyclones, summers ought to be avoided as the weather is much less pleasant than in winter, when from May to October the SE trade winds are normally in full force in these latitudes, although occasionally they can be interrupted by squalls and short periods of light winds and calms. During the summer months, from December to March, winds are less predictable and the weather can be hot and sultry. The Tuamotus should be avoided during the cyclone season as no anchorage can be regarded as safe. Even a relatively protected anchorage can quickly turn into a lee shore and the long fetch in most lagoons can create highly dangerous conditions for boats at anchor. A newly opened small marina and boatyard at Apataki will store boats on land during the cyclone season.

Satellite navigation has played a major part in making the more remote islands, and especially the Tuamotus, accessible to cruising boats, many of whose owners would not have dared pass through those waters without GPS. Although most of the dangers are now easier to avoid, it must be remembered that charts of the area have not been updated or corrected and therefore may be inaccurate. In many cases, positions obtained by GPS will not agree with those taken off a chart. This calls for extreme caution when in the vicinity of reefs or when sailing at night or in bad visibility. Nor should the strong currents that sweep through the area be ignored, which makes it essential to update one’s position as frequently as possible. As many of the anchorages in the Tuamotus are in large lagoons, the long fetch will cause uncomfortable, and occasionally dangerous, conditions in strong winds. Finally, being so heavily dependent on satellite navigation when navigating in the South Pacific, and particularly in such a difficult area as the Tuamotus, a backup GPS would be a wise investment. Just as useful would be tide tables as well as detailed charts. In the case of the Tuamotus, French charts are preferable as they are the most recent and have been updated regularly.

PS20 Routes in Eastern Polynesia

• PS21 Gambier Islands to Marquesas

BEST TIME: | May to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Polynesia, Guide to Navigation in French Polynesia, South Pacific Anchorages. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Rikitea 23°06.3’S, 134°57.0’W | Gambier W 23°04.0’S, 135°07.0’W | Marutea E 21°31.0’S, 135°11.0’W |  |  |
|  | Reao E |  |  |
|  | 18°31.0’S, 136°11.0’W |  |  |
|  | Fatu Hiva SW 10°33.0’S, 138°42.5’W Fatu Hiva NW 10°24.0’S, 138°42.3’W |  | Hanavave 10°27.8’S, 138°40.5’W | 797
|  | Mohotani W 10°00.0’S, 138°54.0’W | Atuona S 9°49.0’S, 139°01.6’W | Atuona 9°48.3’S, 139°02.0’W | 841

The direct route between these two island groups of French Polynesia skirts the eastern extremity of the Tuamotus and passes close to the atolls of Marutea and Reao. Having left Mangareva through the West Pass, a course should be set for the recommended waypoints to pass east of those two atolls. Those who have already cleared into French Polynesia may stop at one of these atolls or at Pukapuka further along the route. If not stopping en route, a course can be set for Fatu Hiva, the southernmost of the Marquesas. Approaching the Marquesas from the south, the most convenient first stop is at Omoa, the main settlement on Fatu Hiva. The gendarmerie (police station) is located there and you should report on arrival. Boats arriving from outside French Polynesia cannot clear in at Fatu Hiva and have to complete formalities at one of the official ports of entry such as Atuona. One of the most spectacular anchorages in the Marquesas is north of Omoa, at Hanavave, also known by its more appealing French name of the Baie des Vierges (Bay of Virgins).

Boats bound directly for Atuona, on Hiva Oa, should set a course to make landfall at the entrance into Taaoa Bay. The small port of Atuona is in the NW corner of the bay. Another port of entry in the Marquesas is Taiohae on Nuku Hiva.

• PS22 Marquesas to Tuamotus and Tahiti

BEST TIME:
May to September

TROPICAL STORMS:
November to April

CHARTS:
BA 4061, US 61

World Voyage Planner:
P1d Marquesas and Gambiers to Tahiti

CRUISING GUIDES:
Guide to Navigation in French Polynesia, Polynesia, South Pacific Anchorages.

WAYPOINTS:
Start
Departure
Intermediate
Landfall
Arrival
Distance

Route PS22A

Taiohae 8°55.0’S, 140°06.0’W
Taiohae S 8°57.0’S, 140°06.0’W
Nuku Hiva SW 9°00.0’S, 140°11.0’W Manihiki NE 14°10.0’S, 145°30.0’W

Rangiroa E 15°16.5’S, 147°06.0’W Makatea NW 15°46.5’S, 148°21.0’W
Rangiroa NE 14°56.5’S, 147°33.5’W
Rangiroa 14°58.5’S, 147°38.2’W
562

Tahiti NW 17°28.0’S, 149°35.0’W
Papeete N 17°32.0’S, 149°35.2’W
Papeete 17°32.6’S, 149°34.8’W
769

Route PS22B

Haka Hatau 9°26.8’S, 140°05.6’W
Ua Pou W 9°24.0’S, 140°08.5’W
Marquesas SW 9°30.0’S, 140°8.0’W Napuka E 14°10.0’S, 141°5.6’W

Taenga W 16°13.6’S, 143°21.0’W Fakarava W 16°14.5’S, 146°05.0’W
Makemo N 16°33.2’S, 143°34.2’W
Makemo 16°38.0’S, 143°33.0’W
504

Tahiti NW
Papeete N
Papeete
852

The direct route leads right through the Tuamotu Archipelago, known in the past as the Dangerous Archipelago on account of its reefs, low-lying islands and very strong currents. Until recently many yachts preferred to bypass this area altogether rather than risk its many dangers. However, satellite navigation and the proliferation of radar on small boats have made it possible for many more to cruise among these delightful atolls. For those who do not intend to stop en route to Tahiti, it is still recommended to lay a safe course outside all dangers. The recommended practice in the past was to wait and leave the Marquesas with a full moon for improved visibility at night.

For those who wish to stop in the Tuamotus, there are various routes that can be sailed from the Marquesas and the choice depends on how many islands one intends to visit before sailing on to Tahiti. The atolls of Takaroa and Manihiki are the easiest option as there are no dangers on the route from the Marquesas. Having stopped at one or both the route to Tahiti continues past Rangiroa. The next course alteration will lead through the 20 mile gap between Arutua and Rangiroa. The next danger to be avoided is Makatea from where a direct course can be sailed to the pass leading into the port of Papeete. Before entering or departing Papeete harbour all yachts must contact the port captain on channel 12. Arriving boats should proceed to Papeete Marina and complete formalities by visiting the various offices. On arrival the skipper should go first to the immigration and harbour master offices located at the ferry terminal.

The alternative route PS22B starts further east at the village of Haka Hatau, on Ua Pou’s SW coast. One of the easiest Tuamotu landfalls is at Taenga, which has a clear pass on its SW side that can be easily negotiated in good visibility. Taenga also makes a good starting point for a Tuamotu cruise.

Those who wish to visit more of the Tuamotus should attempt to make landfall at one of the more eastern atolls, such as Pukapuka or Hao. This may not be so easy in strong SE winds so an alternative landfall would be Makemo. This is one of the more developed atolls, with a sizeable settlement and several shops. The route should pass well to the west of the Taenga Atoll, with a recommended landfall north of the main pass on Makemo’s NE side. The anchorage off the main settlement is very exposed in strong SE winds.

Navigation difficulties in the Tuamotus are exacerbated by the fact that even some recent charts are not accurate and do not tally with the actual GPS position, as in the case of Makemo itself. Most passes into lagoons throughout French Polynesia are marked by beacons, some of which may be lit. As the tides can sweep through such passes at fierce rates, timing one’s transit to coincide with slack water is essential. In most cases the best time to negotiate a pass is just after low water slack. Some lagoons can be crossed relatively easily in good light, and those that are inhabited are usually beaconed. Once inside a lagoon, there are some basic rules to be followed, such as choosing an anchorage carefully to have some shelter if the wind changes, and avoiding long fetches if strong winds are predicted or a front is expected to pass.

• PS23 Tahiti to Tuamotus and Marquesas

BEST TIME: | May, October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Guide to Navigation in French Polynesia, Polynesia, South Pacific Anchorages. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS23A |  |  |  |  |
Papeete 17°32.6’S, 149°34.8’W | Papeete N 17°32.0’S, 149°35.2’W | Tahiti NW 17°28.0’S, 149°35.0’W Makatea NW 15°46.5’S, 148°21.0’W |  |  |
|  | Rangiroa E 15°16.5’S, 147°06.0’W Manihiki S 14°38.0’S, 146°00.5’W Manihiki NE 14°10.0’S, 145°30.0’W | Rangiroa NE 14°56.5’S, 147°33.5’W | Rangiroa 14°58.5’S, 147°38.2’W | 245
|  | Nuku Hiva SW 9°00.0’S, 140°11.0’W | Taiohae S 8°57.0’S, 140°06.0’W | Taiohae 8°55.0’S, 140°06.0’W | 769
Route PS23B |  |  |  |  |
Papeete | Papeete N | Tahiti NW Fakarava W 16°14.5’S, 146°05.0’W |  |  |
|  | Fatu Hiva SW 10°33.0’S, 138°42.5’W |  | Hanavave 10°27.8’S, 138°40.5’W | 774

In the Society Islands the SE trade winds blow mostly from the east, especially in the winter months from June to August, therefore a better time to sail this passage is at the change of seasons. At that time the winds are generally lighter and there is also a higher percentage from SE. At most other times, the chances of a passage to the Tuamotus will be most likely on the wind, unless you can wait for a spell of truly SE winds. Passages to the Marquesas are somewhat easier to plan as a slightly more favourable wind angle can be sailed.

Route PS23A is the most direct and can be easily interrupted at Rangiroa, and possibly also Manihiki. Route PS23B heads for the Central Tuamotus, with a suggested landfall at Fakarava. This atoll has passes at both ends of the large lagoon, where some of the best diving in the Tuamotus can be experienced. Fakarava is also a good place to start a cruise among the Tuamotus, with several atolls where the trip can be interrupted on the way to the Marquesas. The suggested landfall at Hanavave on Fatu Hiva is in one of the most spectacular anchorages in those soaring islands.

The route between Tahiti and the Marquesas is often sailed by boats on their way to Hawaii and the Tuamotus are a convenient springboard to make some easting, which will come in very useful when the NE trade winds are met north of the equator.

• PS24 Marquesas to Northern Cooks

BEST TIME: | June to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Polynesia, South Pacific Anchorages. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS24A |  |  |  |  |
Taiohae 8°55.0’S, 140°06.0’W | Taiohae S 8°57.0’S, 140°06.0’W | Nuku Hiva SW 9°00.0’S, 140°11.0’W |  |  |
|  | Penrhyn NW 8°54.5’S, 158°04.0’W | Penrhyn W 8°58.0’S, 158°05.0’W | Omoka 8°58.5’S, 158°03.0’W | 1073
Route PS24B |  |  |  |  |
Taiohae | Taiohae S | Nuku Hiva SW |  |  |
|  | Suwarrow NE 13°13.0’S, 163°00.0’W | Entrance 13°14.5’S, 163°05.9’W | Anchorage 13°15.0’S, 163°06.5’W | 1380

To avoid formalities in Papeete, as well as one of the busiest cities in the South Pacific, a number of boats bypass both the Tuamotu and Society Islands and sail directly from the Marquesas to the Northern Cooks or even Samoa. From a purely practical point of view, it greatly simplifies navigation by sailing a route that stays well to the north of the Tuamotus. Such a decision makes even more sense late in the season for boats in a hurry to reach a distant destination, such as New Zealand. On the other hand, it means missing the Society Islands, undoubtedly some of the most beautiful islands not just in the Pacific, but in the entire world.

The route to Penrhyn, the northernmost of the Cook Islands, passes close to the Southern Line Islands of Caroline and Vostok, both of which are uninhabited. Caroline has a pass into its lagoon and would make an interesting stop, whereas Vostok only has an open anchorage in its lee. From Nuku Hiva, a direct course can be sailed almost due west to make landfall east of Penrhyn. The large lagoon can be accessed through three passes, the most convenient being the Taruia Pass on the west side. Penrhyn, also known as Tongareva, is an official port of entry into the Cooks and the main settlement is Omoka. The other two Northern Cook islands, Rakahanga and Manihiki, can be visited next.

The route then continues SW to the best known of the Northern Cooks, the uninhabited atoll Suwarrow, made famous by New Zealander Tom Neale, who spent many years there leading the life of a modern Robinson Crusoe. Suwarrow has been declared a nature reserve by the Cook Islands government. A caretaker is now based there. Formalities are simple and there is only a modest fee to be paid by visiting yachts.

• PS25 Tahiti to Austral Islands

BEST TIME: | May, October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Guide to Navigation in French Polynesia, Polynesia, South Pacific Anchorages. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Papeete 17°32.6’S, 149°34.8’W | Papeete N 17°32.0’S, 149°35.2’W | Papeete W 17°31.5’S, 149°39.0’W |  |  |
|  | Tahiti SW 17°47.0’S, 149°38.0’W | Tubuai NW 23°19.3’S, 149°31.0’W | Mataura 23°21.0’S, 149°30.3’W | 354
|  | Raivavae N 23°48.8’S, 147°41.0’W |  | Raivavae 23°51.2’S, 147°40.3’W | 400
|  | Raivavae W 23°53.0’S, 147°44.5’W | Rapa E 27°37.0’S, 144°16.6’W | Ahurei 27°37.0’S, 144°19.3’W | 682

This group of islands, of which the nearest, Rurutu, lies 300 miles south of Tahiti, attracts only a few visitors as they are off the well-travelled cruising routes. During the winter months, from May to September, when the SE trade winds blow strongly between Tahiti and the islands, it is sometimes difficult to reach some of the windward Australs. When the wind has too much south in it, it is probably better to call first at Tubuai, which has a pass into the lagoon, and then work one’s way gradually to the other islands. Sailing to the islands is better done at the start of the SE season, in April, when the trade winds are not so strong. If easting can be made on leaving Tahiti, the southernmost Rapa should be visited first before calling at the others. However, if the SE winds make this impossible, you should alter course for Tubuai, which is almost due south from Tahiti and should be easier to reach.

Having sailed around the west coast of Tahiti, a direct course can be set to make landfall NW of Tubuai. Tubuai’s lagoon is entered through the Main Pass, on the NW side. The main settlement is at Mataura. The other ports of entry in the Australs are Moerai, on Rurutu, Rairua, on Raivavae and Ahurei, on Rapa. Both Raivavae and Rapa have good anchorages.

Because of the difficulty of reaching the Australs from Tahiti, those intending to sail from New Zealand to Tahiti at a later stage may visit the Australs on that occasion as they are close to the recommended route. The alternative is to reach the Australs from the east, possibly from the Gambier Islands, when much better sailing conditions will be encountered as both winds and current should be in your favour. This option should be considered by boats arriving in French Polynesia from the east, possibly via Easter and Pitcairn Islands. In that case, both the Gambier and Austral Islands could be visited first before continuing to Tahiti (see PS27).

• PS26 Tahiti to Southern Chile

BEST TIME: | October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, 4062, US 61, 62 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P37 Voyages from Tahiti |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Chile. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS26A |  |  |  |  |
Papeete 17°32.6’S, 149 °34.8’W | Papeete N 17°26.0’S, 149°28.0’W | Papeete SE 17°38.0’S, 149°00.0’W Chacao W 41°41.0’S, 74°2.0’W | Tubuai NW 23°19.3’S, 149°31.0’W | Mataura 23°21.0’S, 149°30.3’W | 354
|  | Chacao E 41°47.5’S, 73°31.0’W | Montt S 41°52.5’S, 72°59.5’W | Montt X 41°28.7’S, 72°56.0’W | 4152
|  | Magellan W 52°30.0’S, 75°20.5’W | Pilar 52°39.0’S, 74°41.9’W | Punta Arenas X 53 °10.0’S, 70°54.0’W | 4174
|  | Beagle W 55°14.5’S, 70°26.0’W |  | Ushuaia X 54°49.0’S, 68°17.0’W | 4259
Route PS26B |  |  |  |  |
Papeete | Papeete N | Papeete SE |  |  |
|  | Australs 23°19.0’S, 149°25.0’W | Beagle W 55°13.0’S, 70°23.0’W | Ushuaia X 54°49.0’S, 68°17.0’W | 3975
|  |  | Horn S 55°59.0’S, 67°15.0’W | Horn Island N 55°57.5’S, 67°13.0’W | 3990

The French sailor and author Bernard Moitessier once described this as the logical route for a return voyage to Europe, although he actually meant the route around Cape Horn. Opinions on this are certainly divided as most cruising sailors regard a westbound voyage along the trade wind routes as the more attractive, even if not necessarily logical, alternative. Although a passage through the Roaring Forties may not promise ideal sailing conditions, those who sail this route will be able not only to reach the increasingly popular cruising grounds of Patagonia but, if they so decide, also sail around the famous cape for good measure.

The time of departure for this passage is crucial so as to reach Southern Chile, and possibly Cape Horn, at the height of the southern summer, which is the optimum time. The recommended time to leave Tahiti is late October or early November, just before the onset of the cyclone season, as such a departure would ensure arriving in Southern Chile at the best time. On leaving Tahiti, depending on the direction and strength of the SE winds, an attempt should be made to sail a course slightly east of south. The winds at the beginning of the southern summer are usually light down to about 28°S.

The initial course from Tahiti cuts across the Austral Islands and it may be tempting to stop at Tubuai, or one of the other Austral Islands, as described in route PS25. Whether you decide to stop in the Australs or not, latitude 30ºS should be crossed in about longitude 140ºW and latitude 40ºS in longitude 120ºW. When the area of prevailing westerly winds is reached, the course becomes more easterly and a direct route can be sailed to the Chacao Channel in the approaches to the extensive cruising grounds of the Chilean fjordland. Puerto Montt is the place to make for as it has a marina and a good range of facilities to prepare the boat for the subsequent cruise through the Chilean canals, where self-sufficiency is the order of the day.

Boats bound for the Strait of Magellan or Beagle Channel (route PS26A) should continue on their course and at some point will need to go south of latitude 50ºS. Landfall for the Strait of Magellan is made at Cape Pilar by those interested in reaching the South Atlantic by this considerably shorter route than through the Beagle Channel. Making landfall in heavy weather should be avoided as the strong currents create rough seas at the entrance to the strait.

An alternative to the offshore route described above is one with several stops. On leaving Tahiti, the first such stop to make for would be the Gambier Islands, from where it is only a relatively short hop to Pitcairn Island. Yet another stop, although not entirely en route, is at Easter Island. As so much depends on the weather conditions encountered on the way, precise intermediate waypoints cannot be given. However, sooner or later, in order to reach any of the destinations listed, the route would have to dip south to make the required easting with help from the prevailing westerlies of higher latitudes.

Similar directions apply for boats sailing route PS26B, which also passes in its initial stages close to the Austral Islands where a stop could be made if necessary. From that point onwards the most favourable course should be sailed to take advantage of the prevailing westerly winds. A landfall at the western end of the Beagle Channel is for sailors planning to spend some time cruising in Patagonia, whereas those who prefer to continue into the South Atlantic should take the classical route passing just south of Cape Horn. Weather conditions in the austral summer should be reasonably favourable even in those high latitudes.

• PS27 Gambier to Austral Islands and Tahiti

BEST TIME: | April to June |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Polynesia, South Pacific Anchorages, Guide to Navigation in French Polynesia. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Rikitea 23°06.3’S, 134°57.0’W | Gambier SW 23°14.0’S, 135°03.0’W | Rapa E 27°37.0’S, 144°16.6’W |  | Ahurei 27°37.0’S, 144°19.3’W | 577
|  | Raivavae W 23°53.0’S, 147°44.5’W |  | Raivavae 23°51.2’S, 147°40.3’W | 713
|  | Raivavae N 23°48.8’S, 147°41.0’W Tahiti SE 17°54.0’S, 148°59.0’W Tahiti NE 17°28.5’S, 149°18.5’W | Tubuai W 23°22.5’S, 149°33.5’W | Mataura 23°21.0’S, 149 °30.3’W | 815
|  | Tahiti N 17°28.0’S, 149°30.0’W | Papeete N 17°32.0’S, 149°35.2’W | Papeete 17°32.6’S, 149 °34.8’W | 1117

Because of its remoteness, French Polynesia’s southernmost group of islands is rarely visited by cruising yachts, except the occasional boat sailing from New Zealand to Tahiti. Those who intend to visit these remote islands will find it much easier to reach the Australs by starting off from the Gambier Islands rather than from Tahiti. As the Australs are on the southern limit of the SE trade winds, those sailing to Rapa encounter favourable winds only at the beginning of the passage. This small volcanic island has a subtropical climate and, especially in winter, westerly winds are quite common. For this reason, it is advisable not to sail the most direct route on leaving the Gambiers and always to keep some westing in hand in case stronger winds from that direction are encountered closer to the island. Landfall will be made east of the island, from where a marked channel leads into the large Ahurei Bay, which is part of a sunken crater. In settled weather it is possible to anchor in deep water off the main settlement, on the south side of the bay, but in strong westerly winds better shelter will be found in the shallower NW part of the bay. Rapa is sometimes referred to in Polynesian as Rapa Iti (Little Rapa) to distinguish it from its more famous namesake Rapa Nui (Greater Rapa), better known as Easter Island.

The route from the Gambier Islands to Raivavae will probably benefit from better winds and, although Rapa and Raivavae are only separated by four degrees of latitude, they have completely different climates as even the ubiquitous coconut palms are absent from Rapa. Making landfall at Rapa first has the advantage that sailing conditions to the other Australs, and on to Tahiti, will be much more favourable.

Raivavae is a high mountainous island completely surrounded by a reef, with the best pass being on the north side. Landfall will therefore be made NE of the atoll, from where the line of the reef will be followed to the marked pass leading into the lagoon. Boats may anchor or come alongside the small quay SE of the pass at the village of Rairua. Tubuai could be visited next as it lies close to the route to Tahiti. Favourable conditions should be experienced for the rest of the voyage to Papeete.

• PS28 Gambier Islands to Tuamotus and Tahiti

BEST TIME: | May to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P1d Marquesas and Gambiers to Tahiti |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Polynesia, South Pacific Anchorages, Pacific Crossing Guide, Guide to Navigation in French Polynesia. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS28A |  |  |  |  |
Rikitea 23°06.3’S, 134°57.0’W | Gambier W 23°04.0’S, 135°07.0’W | Fangataufa S 22°26.5’S, 138°47.0’W Tematagi S 21°46.0’S, 140°35.0’W Hereheretue S 19°57.0’S, 144°57.0’W Tahiti SE 17°54.0’S, 148°59.0’W |  |  |
|  | Tahiti N | Papeete N | Papeete | 898
|  | 17°28.0’S, 149°30.0’W | 17°32.0’S, 149°35.2’W | 17°32.6’S, 149°34.8’W |
Route PS28B |  |  |  |  |
Rikitea | Gambier W | Marutea E 21°31.0’S, 135°11.0’W Fakarava W 16°14.5’S, 146°5.0’W |  |  |
|  | Tahiti N | Papeete N | Papeete | 1014

The direct route PS28A from Mangareva to Tahiti skirts the southern edge of the Tuamotus, once known as the Dangerous Archipelago on account of the hazardous navigation among the low islands, extensive reefs and unpredictable currents. Thanks to vastly improved navigation aids, this large area can now be crossed in relative safety, but it should still be approached with extreme caution. Many of the atolls have passes through their reefs and stopping at some of them is therefore possible.

On leaving Mangareva by its western pass, one of the first atolls to be passed on the direct route to Tahiti is Mururoa, once a site of French nuclear tests. This is still a prohibited area that must be given a wide berth by sailing well to the south of it. Also avoided should be the neighbouring Fangataufa Atoll, similarly used as a test site in the past. The route then continues to the small islands of Tematagi and Hereheretue, both of which will be passed on their south side. Landfall is made at Point Venus on the north coast of Tahiti. The contour of the coast, which is fronted by a fringing reef, is followed around to the main pass leading into the port of Papeete. Arriving boats should proceed to Papeete Marina and complete formalities by visiting the various offices.

The indirect route PS28B provides the opportunity to call at some of the Tuamotus en route to Tahiti. A possible first landfall almost due north of Mangareva is the Marutea Atoll. The chain of atolls stretches in a NW direction, with the more accessible ones being located in the central group. Fakarava, with its large lagoon and good diving sites, would make a good point of departure for the final leg to Tahiti.

PS30 • Routes in Central Polynesia

• | PS31 | Society Islands to Cook Islands | 397
• | PS32 | Society Islands to Tonga | 399
• | PS33 | Society Islands to Samoa | 400
• | PS34 | Society Islands to New Zealand | 401
• | PS35 | Cook Islands to Samoa | 402
• | PS36 | Cook Islands to Niue and Tonga | 403
• | PS37 | Cook Islands to New Zealand | 405

The Society Islands are one of the most enticing cruising destinations in the world and their continuing popularity is shown by the steadily increasing number of yachts calling there every year. The best time to visit, and also the safest, is in winter between June and September. In French Polynesia, the cyclone season officially lasts from November to April, with the worst months being February and March. It coincides with the southern summer, when the SE trade winds are absent and the weather is often muggy and overcast. It is not the kind of weather to entice anyone to stay when one could easily be elsewhere. It is all a matter of timing and a little advance planning can make it possible to be in Tahiti at the best of times and avoid the worst.

PS30 Routes in Central Polynesia

In spite of several routes ending at Tahiti, the number originating from there is quite small. The main ones are the trunk routes to the west (PS31 and PS32), the so-called ‘milk run’, which is a misnomer, as ideal trade wind conditions are seldom present along the entire length of this route. Occasionally, weather conditions in the South Pacific fail to conform to the norm and results can be very different to what is expected. The usual cause for this is the South Pacific Convergence Zone, which can affect weather conditions along most of the routes described in this section. The worst conditions are usually experienced during an El Niño period, which can affect weather patterns throughout the Pacific, and even beyond. Even in normal years, westerly winds on westbound passages from the Society Islands are not uncommon. They are generated by the passage of a low and associated fronts south of the area. In such a case the winds will back from NW to W and SW. After the front has passed, the winds will return to SSE and finally SE. After a spell of SE winds, which can last from two to five days and occasionally longer, the pattern may repeat itself.

Although it is possible to leave on a westbound voyage at any time from May to October, when generally reasonable sailing conditions can be expected, it is advisable to plan well in advance where to spend the following cyclone season. Such a decision will dictate both the timing of departure from French Polynesia and the amount of time spent visiting other islands en route.

Two main westbound routes diverge on leaving Bora Bora: a southern route calling at some of the Southern Cooks before continuing to Tongatapu, and a northern route that leads to Suwarrow before continuing to Vava’u or Samoa. For those for whom Tahiti is a point of return, either to the west coast of North America or to Europe and the US east coast, there are a limited number of alternatives to choose from. The usual route taken by those who plan to return to the Atlantic is to continue westabout around the world along the trade wind routes of the three oceans. As mentioned in the previous section (see PS26), the alternative is to take what Bernard Moitessier called ‘the logical route’ and reach the Atlantic via Southern Chile or Cape Horn. Although shorter than the trade wind route, the Cape Horn route offers the prospect of a much tougher voyage. Another possibility is to reach the Atlantic via the Panama Canal (PT19). In this case, South America can be reached from Tahiti with the help of westerly winds in higher latitudes. From there, the SE trade winds and north-setting Humboldt Current should make the rest of the trip to Panama fairly easy.

A return from Tahiti to the Pacific coast of North America is more straightforward. The most convenient route leads from Tahiti to Hawaii and this route should also be sailed by those from other parts of the world who want to visit Alaska, the Pacific Northwest or California.

• PS31 Society Islands to Cook Islands

BEST TIME: | June to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P8 Voyages from Tahiti |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Polynesia, South Pacific Anchorages. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS31A |  |  |  |  |
Vaitape 16°30.0’S, 151°45.4’W | Bora Bora W 16°29.2’S, 151°48.5’W |  | Maupiti S 16°29.7’S, 152°14.8’W | Maupiti 16°27.4’S, 152°15.0’W | 31
|  | Aitutaki N 18°47.5’S, 159°47.0’W | Aitutaki W 18°51.0’S, 159°49.6’W | Aitutaki 18°52.0’S, 159°48.2’W | 485
|  | Mauke N 20°00.0’S, 157°20.0’W | Rarotonga N 21°10.5’S, 159°47.0’W | Avatiu 21°11.8’S, 159°47.0’W | 538
Route PS31B |  |  |  |  |
Vaitape | Bora Bora W | Maupiti S Motu One S 15°55.0’S, 154°32.0’W |  |  |
|  | Suwarrow NE 13°13.0’S, 163°00.0’W | Entrance 13°14.5’S, 163°05.9’W | Anchorage 13°15.0’S, 163°06.5’W | 688
Route PS31C |  |  |  |  |
Vaitape | Bora Bora W | Maupiti S |  |  |
|  | Penrhyn S | Penrhyn W | Omoka | 587
|  | 9°09.5’S, 157°57.0’W | 8°58.0’S, 158°05.0’W | 8°58.5’S, 158°03.0’W |

Most westbound boats take their leave from the Society Islands in Bora Bora, where departure fomalities can be completed and the boat provisioned for the forthcoming passage. During the SE trade wind season, favourable conditions prevail for most of the passage, although during July and August the trade winds reach their peak and sailing conditions can be boisterous with large seas. During the summer months, from November to the end of March, the greater proportion of winds are still from the SE or E, but W and NW winds are not uncommon and are usually accompanied by squally weather. This is also the cyclone season when the area is best avoided as none of the islands can be considered entirely safe.

Boats heading west have a number of alternative landfalls as the routes fan out to visit islands either in the Southern or Northern Cooks, the two groups being separated by some 500 miles of ocean. The majority of boats head for Aitutaki or the capital Rarotonga, with the most visited atoll in the Northern Cooks being Suwarrow. Although this nature reserve is not an official port of entry, the warden stationed there will give permission for a stop of a few days. The official port of entry in the Northern Cooks is Penrhyn and, once formalities have been completed, the voyage can continue to neighbouring Rakahanga and Manihiki, lying approximately 200 miles to the southwest.

The direct route to Rarotonga passes right by Mauke, but as this is not a port of entry stopping there is not permitted. It is sometimes possible to stop at nearby Atiu, but you may be charged the transportation costs of the officials from Rarotonga. The official port of entry is Avatiu, the commercial harbour of Rarotonga, where arriving vessels should report to the port captain, who monitors channel 16 during office hours. There is a small marina inside the commercial harbour, where entry formalities are completed. In principle, cruising boats are only allowed to visit islands that have an official port of entry and calling at any other islands cannot be done without prior permission from customs and immigration.

Those who intend to stop at Aitutaki, and certainly any of those bound for the Northern Cooks, should leave French Polynesia from one of the more western islands, such as Bora Bora. From the Te Ava Nui Pass, the route to Aitutaki passes south of Maupiti, a small atoll that belongs to French Polynesia. There is a pass on its south side and boats are welcome to stop even if they have cleared out at Bora Bora. From there, the route continues to Aitutaki. There is a pass on the NW side of the lagoon that leads to the main settlement Aratunga. The pass is difficult to negotiate because of the strong outflowing current and limited depth (1.80 m). Larger boats with deeper drafts may have to anchor outside the reef. Aitutaki is an official port of entry.

The route from Bora Bora to Penrhyn passes right by Motu Iti, a small uninhabited island belonging to French Polynesia. Penrhyn’s large lagoon has three passes, but the most convenient is the Taruia Pass, on the west side, as it gives direct access to the main settlement Omoka, where entry formalities are completed.

Many boats do not stop in any of the Cooks at all and make straight for Suwarrow. The pass into the lagoon is on the NE side of the atoll, between Anchorage Island and Northeast Reef. The entrance should not be attempted if there is a big swell running. There is a good anchorage on the NW side of the large lagoon but it becomes untenable in squally weather. Because of the long fetch, the lagoon can become very rough. Yachts have been lost after breaking free from their anchors and being driven onto the reef, so in threatening weather it is safer to put to sea immediately. Suwarrow has been declared a national park by the Cook Islands government and a warden now resides there. Boats that have not cleared into the Cooks are allowed to spend a limited time at Suwarrow, without any formalities except for registering with the warden and paying a nominal fee.

• PS32 Society Islands to Tonga

BEST TIME: | June to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P8 Voyages from Tahiti |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Pacific Crossing Guide, Cruising Guide to the Vava’u Island Group, Cruising Guide to the Kingdom of Tonga, South Pacific Anchorages. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS32A |  |  |  |  |
Vaitape 16°30.0’S, 151°45.4’W | Maupiti S 16°29.7’S, 152°14.8’W | [Aitutaki N] 18°47.5’S, 159°47.0’W Beveridge S 20°06.0’S, 167°46.0’W | Aitutaki W 18°51.0’S, 159°49.6’W | Aitutaki 18°52.0’S, 159°48.2’W | 485
|  | Eastern Reef 20°56.0’S, 175°00.0’W | Ava Lahi Pass 21°00.0’S, 175°10.2’W | Nuku’alofa X 21°07.3’S, 175°10.5’W | 1365
Route PS32B |  |  |  |  |
Vaitape | Maupiti S | Mauke N 20°00.0’S, 157°20.0’W Rarotonga NW 21°11.0’S, 159°51.0’W | Rarotonga N 21°10.5’S, 159°47.0’W | Avatiu 21°11.8’S, 159°47.0’W | 538
|  | Tongatapu E 21°05.2’S, 174°58.0’W | Piha Pass E 21°06.8’S, 175°03.4’W | Nuku’alofa X | 1398
Route PS32C |  |  |  |  |
Vaitape | Maupiti S | Aitutaki N | Aitutaki W | Aitutaki | 485
|  | [Palmerston SW] 18°07.0’S, 163°11.5’W | Palmerston W 18°03.0’S, 163°12.5’W | Palmerston 18°03.7’S, 163°11.3’W | 683
|  | [Niue SW] | Niue W | Alofi | 1065
|  | 19°10.0’S, 169°57.0’W Vava’u S 18°55.5’S, 174°02.9’W Vava’u SW 18°51.0’S, 174°12.0’W | 19°04.5’S, 169°58.0’W | 19°03.0’S, 169°55.5’W |
|  | Vava’u W 18°39.5’S, 174°09.5’W | Neiafu NW 18°37.5’S, 174°05.5’W | Neiafu X 18°39.0’S, 174°00.0’W | 1320

Few of the boats on a westbound passage from the Society Islands fail to call at one of the Cook Islands as the route passes them so closely. Indeed, sailing by some of those islands without stopping makes little sense and, if time permits, a stop in the Cooks should be allowed for, in which case route PS31 should be consulted first. There are two routes to the Tongan capital Nuku’alofa and both have their attraction. Route PS32A is more direct and entails possibly only one stop in the Cook Islands at Aitutaki. Route PS32B would appeal to those who wish to call at the capital Rarotonga. Both routes pass in the initial stages close to Maupiti and Maupihaa, both of which have lagoons that can be accessed in settled conditions.

Whether stopping at Aitutaki or not, route PS32A needs to avoid Beveridge Reef, before making landfall north of Eastern Reef, in the outer approaches to the Tongatapu Lagoon. From that point it is a clear run to buoy no. 1, at the start of the Ava Lahi Pass, which is the shipping channel leading to Nuku’alofa. The buoyed channel winds its way through the lagoon to the small boat harbour at Faua, located west of Queen Salote wharf, close to Nuku’alofa. The entrance has a depth of 8.5 ft (2.6 m) at low tide and the basin has been dredged to a depth of 9 ft (3.0 m) inside. The channel through the lagoon is not easy to negotiate at night and therefore one should attempt to arrive in daytime. Boats may proceed directly into Faua Harbour, where the captain should make his way to the nearby port and customs offices.

In daylight and good visibility it is possible to use the Piha Passage, which is shorter and easier to negotiate and leads directly to Nuku’alofa. In this case, landfall should be made NE of Eua Iki Island, from where the Piha Passage is taken into the lagoon.

Route PS32C may appeal to those who are not in a hurry and wish to stop on some of the islands along the way. The route to Vava’u, in Northern Tonga, passes close to the Palmerston Atoll, which belongs to the Cook Islands. Its isolated community is always pleased to greet visiting yachts. There is an anchorage on the SW side of the atoll, close to a number of small-boat passages through the reef, of which the deepest is only 4 ft (1.20 m). In its vicinity, the islanders have laid several moorings for the use of visiting boats.

Close to the route to Vava’u is also Niue, a small island nation. Boats stopping there clear in at Alofi, the main settlement. Mooring buoys have also been laid here in the lee of the island, and there is also a crane that can be used to lift the tender out of the swell.

Boats bound for Vava’u should make landfall NE of the main island. From there, the north coast is followed around to the Faihava Pass, which leads into Port Refuge. This is one of the best-sheltered places in the South Pacific and is considered one of the few cyclone shelters in the area. The small town of Neiafu is spread on its northern shore and various offices need to be visited there to complete arrival formalities. As a popular charter base, facilities in Neiafu are among the best in the Central South Pacific.

Yachts arriving from overseas must submit an advance notice of arrival no less than 24 hours before their ETA in Tonga. The form should be emailed to info@customs.gov.to and can be downloaded from https://www.noonsite.com/place/tonga/formalities/.

• PS33 Society Islands to Samoa

BEST TIME: | June to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4601, US 61 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P8 Voyages from Tahiti |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Pacific Crossing Guide, South Pacific Anchorages. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Vaitape | Maupiti S | Tutuila SE | Pago Pago S | Pago Pago | 1102
16°30.0’S, 151°45.4’W | 16°29.7’S, 152°14.8’W | 14°18.5’S, 170°32.8’W Tutuila SW 14°23.5’S, 170°44.5’W Tutuila W 14°19.0’S, 170°35.5’W | 14°18.0’S, 170°39.8’W | 14°17.0’S, 170°40.2’W |
|  | Upolu E | Apia N | Apia | 1175
|  | 13°57.5’S, 171°18.5’W | 13°46.0’S, 171°44.6’W | 13°49.0’S, 171°45.5’W |

Weather conditions on this route are usually better than those on the more southern route to Tonga, mainly because the area crossed by this route is less affected by the fronts passing in higher latitudes. From Bora Bora, the route to American Samoa passes south of Maupiti, from where it continues uninterrupted as far as the south coast of Tutuila in the approaches to Pago Pago. The capital of American Samoa is a popular stop with American sailors, who are attracted by the opportunity to reprovision their boats with US products. On arrival at Pago Pago the port captain should be called on channel 16 for berthing instructions.

The excellently sheltered natural harbour, one of the safest hurricane holes in the South Pacific, has few attractions besides its American-type supermarkets.

Boats bound for Apia nonstop, in neighbouring Samoa, should also make landfall south of Tutuila. The route continues NW to Upolu Island in the approaches to Apia, the capital of Samoa. Boats must give 48 hours prior notice of arrival by emailing portmaster@spasamoa.ws. Formalities are completed in Apia Marina.

This route is the nearest to pass the Suwarrow Atoll and most boats sailing it make the detour to stop in that idyllic place. Suwarrow belongs to the Cook Islands and a resident caretaker is based there to ensure that the crews of visiting yachts do not overstay their welcome. The caretaker deals with the necessary formalities, which are minimal. More details are given in PS31.

• PS34 Society Islands to New Zealand

BEST TIME: | October to mid-November |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P13 Voyages to New Zealand |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Coastal Cruising Handbook of the Royal Arakana Yacht Club, Pickmere’s Atlas of Northland’s East Coast, Destination New Zealand, Pacific Crossing Guide. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Vaitape 16°30.0’S, 151°45.4’W | Bora Bora W 16°29.2’S, 151°48.5’W | Mauke N 20°00.0’S, 157°20.0’W | Rarotonga N 21°10.5’S, 159°47.0’W | Avatiu 21°11.8’S, 159°47.0’W | 538
|  | Rarotonga NW |  |  |
|  | 21°11.0’S, 159°51.0’W |  |  |
|  | [Raoul E 29°16.0’S, 177°50.0’W | Raoul SE 29°17.0’S, 177°53.5’W | Raoul 29°17.0’S, 177°55.0’W | 1637
|  | Raoul S] 29°18.7’S, 177°55.0’W | Cape Brett 35°08.0’S, 174°19.2’E | Opua X 35°18.7’S, 174°07.5’E | 2202
|  | Knights E 35°27.0’S, 174°58.5’E Cuvier N 36°22.5’S, 175°43.0’E | Whangarei SE 35°54.0’S, 174°33.8’E | Whangarei X 35°48.0’S, 174°26.0’E | 2225
|  | Colville N 36°23.0’S, 175°23.0’E | Matangi E 36°36.0’S, 174°57.3’E | Auckland X 36°51.0’S, 174°48.0’E | 2268

The recommended time for this passage is just before summer comes to the tropics and with it the threat of cyclones, which is the main reason why most cruising boats leave the tropics at this time. This is also the start of the sailing season in New Zealand, when the worst of the winter gales are over. If the passage is made earlier in winter, when the SE trade winds are still blowing strongly in the tropics, it is probably better to sail west at least as far as longitude 165ºW before altering course for New Zealand. The reason for this is to have some westing in hand should a SW gale blow up while approaching the top of New Zealand. Whether this tactic is justified or not depends very much on the weather encountered. Some sailors are of the opinion that if the weather conditions are favourable one might as well stick to the shortest route to New Zealand and hope for the best.

The direct route from Bora Bora passes so close to Rarotonga that a stop there should be considered (see route PS31). One feature that can seriously affect weather on this passage, is the South Pacific Convergence Zone. The SPCZ moves south during summer and is the main reason why the weather south of latitude 20ºS can be very changeable, making access to the latest weather information so useful on passages along this route. If a stop in Rarotonga, or anywhere else in the Cook Islands, is not envisaged, from Bora Bora the route passes close to the north of Raoul Island in the Kermadecs. This group of islands belongs to New Zealand and is a protected area where only temporary stops are allowed at the indicated anchorage on Raoul Island. Three possible New Zealand landfalls have been listed. Those bound for the Bay of Islands should set a course for Cape Brett and continue to Opua to complete entry formalities. All boats are required to contact customs before they make landfall and follow instructions to the recommended place to berth.

Boats bound for Whangarei, further down North Island’s east coast, should set a direct course to make landfall off Bream Head, in the approaches to Whangarei. From there, a long but well-buoyed river channel leads to the port of Whangarei.

Those who are bound for Auckland should sail a course that passes east of Great Barrier Island and makes landfall north of Cuvier Island. From there, the Colville Channel is followed into the Gulf of Hauraki. There are several marinas in the Auckland area, and it is advisable to make berthing arrangements in advance so as to be able to proceed directly to the marina on arrival.

Yachts arriving from overseas must contact the authorities 48 hours prior to ETA, to arrange clearance on arrival. This can be done via email to yachts@customs. govt.nz. On arrival boats must come to the official quarantine dock to complete formalities.

• PS35 Cook Islands to Samoa

BEST TIME: | May to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | South Pacific Anchorages. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS35A |  |  |  |  |
Avatiu 21°11.8’S, 159°47.0’W | Rarotonga N 21°10.5’S, 159°47.0’W |  |  |  |
Aitutaki 18°52.0’S, 159°48.2’W | Aitutaki W 18°51.0’S, 159°49.6’W | [Palmerston SW] 18°07.0’S, 163°11.5’W | Palmerston W 18°03.0’S, 163°12.5’W | Palmerston 18°03.7’S, 163°11.3’W | 273/204
|  | Tutuila SE | Pago Pago S | Pago Pago | 749/683
|  | 14°18.5’S, 170°32.8’W Tutuila SW 14°23.5’S, 170°44.5’W | 14°18.0’S, 170°39.8’W | 14°17.0’S, 170°40.2’W |
|  | Upolu E | Apia N | Apia | 821/757
|  | 13°57.5’S, 171°18.5’W | 13°46.0’S, 171°44.6’W | 13°49.0’S, 171°45.5’W |
Route PS35B |  |  |  |  |
Omoka 8°58.5’S, 158°03.0’W | Penrhyn W 8°58.0’S, 158°05.0’W | Manihiki SE 10°28.0’S, 160°54.0’W |  |  |
|  | Manihiki SW 10°28.5’S, 161°2.5’W | Manihiki W 10°25.5’S, 161°03.1’W | Manihiki 10°25.5’S, 161°02.3’W | 204
|  | Suwarrow NE 13°13.0’S, 163°00.0’W | Entrance 13°14.5’S, 163°05.9’W | Anchorage 13°15.0’S, 163°06.5’W | 394
|  | Tutuila SE | Pago Pago S | Pago Pago | 809
|  | Tutuila SW |  |  |
|  | Upolu E | Apia N | Apia | 886

During the SE trade wind season, favourable winds can be expected for most of this passage, although there are occasions when the trades do not blow with the hoped-for consistency. In the area between the Cook Islands and Samoa, the trade winds follow a cyclic pattern, with several days of consistent winds followed by a short period of calms or variable winds, followed in turn by another spell of steady E or SE winds. In some years the SE trade winds are not established until late in the season and boats making this passage in April and even May can have a mixed weather pattern, with calms at night and squally weather during the day. The fastest passages are usually made in July and August, although during those months the trade winds may be almost too strong for some people’s taste.

From Aitutaki, a direct course can be sailed to Samoa, but as the route passes close to Palmerston, this typical South Seas atoll is worth a stop. There is only a shallow pass into the lagoon, but the islanders have laid a number of moorings in the lee for the use of visiting boats. The inhabitants are all the descendants of William Marsters, a ship’s carpenter and barrel maker, who arrived there in 1863 with his Polynesian wives and annexed the island from the British government. An old form of English is still spoken on the island, where visiting sailors are always welcome.

From Palmerston, boats bound for American Samoa should set a course to make landfall south of Tutuila, in the approaches to the perfectly sheltered natural harbour of Pago Pago. Arriving yachts should call the port captain on channel 16 for berthing instructions.

Boats bound nonstop for Samoa should sail a similar course and continue from the south coast of Tutuila on a NW course to Upolu Island in the approaches to Apia, the capital of Samoa. Samoa now requires 48 hours’ advance notification of arrival and email it to portmaster@ spasamoa.ws. Formalities are completed in Apia Marina.

Because of the large distance separating the two groups that make up the Cook Islands, some sailors prefer to take a northern route from the Society Islands to the western Polynesian Islands. This is indeed a less frequented part of the world and the route to Samoa has the added advantage that it benefits from favourable winds throughout the austral winter. Among the three main islands in the Northern Cooks, Penrhyn provides good shelter in its large lagoon. Two other Northern Cook Islands, Rakahanga and Manihiki, will be passed quite closely, but as neither has a safe anchorage, stopping there should only be attempted in settled weather. Slightly off the direct route is Suwarrow, which also belongs to the Cooks, and is a favourite stop for westbound boats (see PS31).

• PS36 Cook Islands to Niue and Tonga

BEST TIME: | May to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P8 Voyages from Tahiti |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | South Pacific Anchorages, Cruising Guide to the Vava’u Island Group, Cruising Guide to the Kingdom of Tonga.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS36A |  |  |  |  |
Avatiu 21°11.8’S, 159°47.0’W | Rarotonga NW 21°11.0’S, 159°51.0’W | Eastern Reef 20°56.0’S, 175°00.0’W | Ava Lahi Pass 21°00.0’S, 175°10.2’W | Nuku’alofa X 21°07.3’S, 175°10.5’W | 870
|  | Tongatapu E 21°05.2’S, 174°58.0’W | Piha Pass E 21°06.8’S, 175°03.4’W | Nuku’alofa X | 861
Route PS36B |  |  |  |  |
Aitutaki 18°52.0’S, 159°48.2’W | Aitutaki W 18°51.0’S, 159°49.6’W | Beveridge S 20°06.0’S, 167°46.0’W |  |  |
|  | Eastern Reef | Ava Lahi Pass | Nuku’alofa X | 894
|  | Tongatapu E | Piha Pass E | Nuku’alofa X | 878
Route PS36C |  |  |  |  |
Aitutaki | Aitutaki W | [Palmerston SW] 18°07.0’S, 163°11.5’W | Palmerston W 18°03.0’S, 163°12.5’W | Palmerston 18°03.7’S, 163°11.3’W | 204
|  | Niue SW 19°10.0’S, 169°57.0’W Vava’u S 18°55.5’S, 174°02.9’W Vava’u SW 18°51.0’S, 174°12.0’W | Niue W 19°04.5’S, 169°58.0’W | Alofi 19°03.0’S, 169°55.5’W | 585
|  | Vava’u W 18°39.5’S, 174°09.5’W | Neiafu NW 18°37.5’S, 174°05.5’W | Neiafu X 18°39.0’S, 174°00.0’W | 840
Route PS36D |  |  |  |  |
Anchorage 13°15.0’S, 163°06.5’W | Entrance 13°14.5’S, 163°05.9’W | Suwarrow N 13°11.0’S, 163°07.5’W |  |  |
|  | [Niue NW] 18°55.0’S, 169°56.0’W | Niue W | Alofi | 539
|  | Vava’u N 18°31.0’S, 173°57.5’W | Neiafu NW | Neiafu X | 722

There are several route options between the Cook Islands and Tonga, and the choice will depend both on the time available and on future cruising plans. Those planning to sail from Tonga to New Zealand before the onset of the cyclone season should visit Vava’u first and stop at Tongatapu on their way south. Early in the season it is probably better to call at Tongatapu first as the winds will be more favourable from there to Ha’apai and Vava’u. Although the routes outlined above appear to be within the trade wind belt, this is not always the case. In the winter months, from June to August, when most passages are made, the southern limit of the SE trades is slightly to the north of this area and, especially between Rarotonga and Tongatapu, one cannot be sure of encountering true trade wind conditions. While the majority of winds still blow from an easterly direction, periods of settled weather never last long and it is not unusual to encounter disturbed conditions somewhere along this route. Although this route crosses an area affected by cyclones, these are not frequent and rarely occur before December or after the end of April. Caution must be exercised between January and March, especially in Tonga, where the incidence of cyclones during these months is much higher than in the Cooks.

A direct course can be sailed from Rarotonga to the Tongan capital Nuku’alofa, but with a choice of two landfalls. To use the main shipping channel to Nuku’alofa, landfall should be made north of Eastern Reef, in the outer approaches to Tongatapu. From that point it is a clear run to buoy no.1, at the start of the Ava Lahi Pass. The buoyed channel winds its way through the lagoon to the small boat harbour at Faua, located west of Queen Salote Wharf, close to Nuku’alofa. The entrance is 8.5 ft (2.6 m) at low tide and the basin has been dredged to a depth of 9 ft (3.0 m) inside. In daylight and good visibility it is possible to use the Piha Passage, which is shorter and leads directly into Nuku’alofa. In this case landfall should be made further south, NE of Eua Iki Island.

One hazard to be avoided on the direct route PS36B between Aitutaki and Tongatapu is Beveridge Reef, which has claimed at least one yacht. It lies almost exactly on the rhumb line, and as the charts are not entirely accurate, this reef should be given a wide berth. The recommended route passes south of this reef. In settled weather it is possible to stop at Beveridge Reef, whose position has been reported at 20°00’N, 167°47’W, which does not fully agree with its charted position. The reef can only be identified in good light and should only be approached in perfect visibility. The reef encloses a small lagoon that can be entered through a pass on its west side. As described above in the case of passages from Rarotonga, the Tongan capital can be accessed by two channels.

Boats bound from Aitutaki for the Vava’u group in Northern Tonga on route PS36C could make a nonstop passage, or call at two attractive places along the route. Palmerston would require a detour, while Niue lies almost directly on that route. Palmerston belongs to the Cook Islands, and as the atoll has no airport and ships only call infrequently, boats coming from Rarotonga are encouraged to bring along mail and any emergency supplies for the small island community. There is no access into its lagoon for keeled boats, but the islanders have laid some mooring buoys for visiting yachts in the recommended anchorage on the west side of the island. Usually one of the islanders will come out in his outrigger canoe to point out the best place to pick up a mooring and may also take the crew ashore. See PS35 for more details of this interesting place.

Niue is an independent nation closely associated with New Zealand. Although it has only an open roadstead off the main settlement at Alofi, the local yacht club has set down some mooring buoys so that visiting boats do not need to anchor in the very deep water. Contact Niue Yacht Club on channel 10 or 16 for mooring allocation.

Boats arriving from Niue can make landfall SW of the extensive reef surrounding Vava’u and make their way around its west side to the Faihava Pass, on the west side of the main island. The alternative is to make landfall NE of the main island and follow the north coast around to the Faihava Pass. This leads into Neiafu, located in one of the best-sheltered bays in the South Pacific and one of the best hurricane holes in the region. Arriving yachts are expected to dock on the main quay to complete formalities.

Route PS36D, originating from Suwarrow, can be sailed nonstop to Vava’u or with a detour to Niue, with the same landfall options as outlined above.

Yachts arriving from overseas must submit an advance notice of arrival no less than 24 hours before their ETA in Tonga. The form should be emailed to info@customs.gov.to and can be downloaded from https://www.noonsite.com/place/tonga/formalities/.

• PS37 Cook Islands to New Zealand

BEST TIME: | October to early November |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P13 Voyages to New Zealand |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Coastal Cruising Handbook of the Royal Arakana Yacht Club, Pickmere’s Atlas of Northland’s East Coast, Destination New Zealand, Pacific Crossing Guide.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Aitutaki | Aitutaki W |  |  |  |
18°52.0’S, 159°48.2’W | 18°51.0’S, 159°49.6’W |  |  |  |
Avatiu | Rarotonga NW | Raoul E | Raoul SE | Raoul | 1172/1096
21°11.8’S, 159°47.0’W | 21°11.0’S, 159°51.0’W | 29°16.0’S, 177°50.0’W | 29°17.0’S, 177°53.5’W | 29°17.0’S, 177°55.0’W |
|  | Raoul S 29°18.7’S, 177°55.5’W [Kermadec E] 30°00.0’S, 175°00.0’E | Cape Brett 35°08.0’S, 174°19.2’E | Opua X 35°18.7’S, 174°07.5’E | 1724/1648
|  | Knights E 35°27.0’S, 174°58.5’E Cuvier N 36°22.5’S, 175°43.0’E | Whangarei SE 35°54.0’S, 174°033.8’E | Whangarei X 35°48.0’S, 174°26.0’E | 1744/1669
|  | Colville N 36°23.0’S, 175°23.0’E | Matangi E 36°36.0’S, 174°57.3’E | Auckland X 36°51.0’S, 174°48.0’E | 1784/1709

Whether starting from Rarotonga or Aitutaki, directions for passages along this route are very similar to those described in PS34, which should be consulted also. Because of the risk of encountering a late-winter gale while approaching New Zealand, or running the risk of being caught by an early cyclone, if leaving the tropics too late, the optimum time is rather limited. Although the direct route from Rarotonga leads east of the Kermadec Islands, if this passage is made before November it is advisable to make some westing while still under the influence of the SE trade winds, and therefore pass to the north and west of the Kermadecs. This means that North Island will be approached from the north, which is the accepted practice for this time of year so as to ensure a better sailing angle in case a gale comes up from the W or SW. This tactic is normally used by boats sailing to New Zealand from Fiji, when making the required westing is not much of a problem. Boats sailing from the Cook Islands may find it too much of a burden to make so much westing and may be tempted to sail a more direct route. Such action should only be taken if it is supported by reliable weather information. After the middle of November the likelihood of SW gales is more remote, so the advice to make some westing can be ignored and a more direct route sailed, possibly east of the Kermadecs so that meridian 175ºE is crossed in latitude 30ºS.

Presuming that this passage is made at the recommended time, and bearing in mind the comments made above, if the point of departure is Rarotonga an initial course should be set for Raoul, the northernmost of the Kermadec Islands, which is a convenient intermediate point, even if a stop there is not envisaged. Sailing such a route, New Zealand would be approached from the north, rather than the east. The Kermadecs belong to New Zealand and are a protected nature area where only temporary stops are allowed at the indicated anchorage on Raoul Island.

Boats bound for the Bay of Islands should set a course for Cape Brett and continue to Opua to complete entry formalities. All boats are required to contact customs before they make landfall and follow instructions to the recommended place to berth.

Those who are bound for Whangarei should set a course to make landfall off Bream Head. From there, a long but well-buoyed river channel leads to the port of Whangarei.

Boats bound for Auckland should set a course that passes east of Great Barrier Island and makes landfall north of Cuvier Island. From there, the Colville Channel is followed into the Gulf of Hauraki. There are several marinas in the Auckland area, and it is advisable to make berthing arrangements in advance so as to be able to proceed on arrival directly to the marina.

Yachts arriving from overseas must contact the authorities 48 hours prior to ETA, to arrange clearance on arrival. This can be done via email to yachts@customs. govt.nz. On arrival boats must come to the official quarantine dock to complete formalities.

PS40 • Routes in Western Polynesia

• | PS41 | Tonga to Fiji | 407
• | PS42 | Northbound from Tonga | 409
• | PS43 | Tonga to New Zealand | 410
• | PS44 | Samoa to Tonga | 411
• | PS45 | Samoa to Fiji | 412
• | PS46 | Northbound from Samoa | 414
• | PS47 | Eastbound from Samoa and Tonga | 416

This area of the South Pacific offers some of the best cruising in the world, although navigation among the various island groups can be quite difficult on account of reefs and strong currents. Although the area between Samoa, Tonga and Fiji appears to be right in the path of the SE trade winds, these are sometimes absent and cannot be relied upon. The explanation for such conditions, which are quite different from what people expect South Seas weather to be like, is the South Pacific Convergence Zone, which moves north and south with the seasons and can produce similar conditions to its equatorial counterpart, the better known Intertropical Convergence Zone.

PS40 Routes in Western Polynesia

Passages between Tonga and Fiji used to have the reputation of being the most hazardous in the South Pacific, and the number of cruising boats that were lost in these waters in pre-satnav days confirmed this assumption. The 180-mile-wide stretch of water between Tonga and Fiji has strong currents and because of the distance involved it is impossible to pass all dangers in daylight. Often this meant that the most dangerous area was reached with an unreliable position and the loss of most boats usually occurred at night and was always blamed on an inaccurate position. The navigation aids found on today’s yachts have made cruising in this part of the world much safer, but those hazards should still be taken seriously.

Another disadvantage of the Central South Pacific is that the entire area is subject to cyclones, which occur mostly in the first three months of the year but the cyclone season is definitely getting longer. The most unpredictable area is the Coral Sea where in recent years extra-seasonal cyclones have occurred in June, July and even September. The tropical cyclone season is taken by most to nominally start in November, and by some in December. Statistically the risk of a cyclone doubles in November and doubles again in December. For this reason most cruising sailors migrate from the tropics to the relative tranquillity of Australia or New Zealand in October or November. A great exodus takes place every year around that time as cruising boats head out of the tropics to spend the summer in a safer area. Although the majority of boats leave the tropics during the dangerous season, every year a number of boats spend the summer in or near one of the ports where shelter can be sought should a cyclone come that way. One of the safest places is Pago Pago, in American Samoa, while another favourite hurricane anchorage is Neiafu, in Tonga’s Vava’u group, although boats did suffer damage during a recent cyclone that passed through there. In Fiji, most boats remain in the vicinity of Suva, where the Tradewinds Anchorage and surrounding inlets offer the best shelter. Savusavu on Vanua Levu Island is also a well-sheltered place. Some boatyards in the area, such as Vuda Point Marina, have made provisions to store the boats in so-called in-ground berths during the cyclone season. The decision to spend the summer in the tropics is a matter of personal choice, but the number of boats lost or damaged in recent years has persuaded most skippers to plan their South Pacific cruise so as to leave the area before the start of the cyclone season.

Many communities in Fiji still observe a traditional way of life and visitors must respect local customs. Restrictions to visit certain islands have been lifted but a cruising permit must be obtained from the appropriate authority after the clearing-in formalities have been completed.

• PS41 Tonga to Fiji

BEST TIME: | June to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P8 Voyages from Tahiti |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Notes Lau Group, Pacific Crossing Guide, South Pacific Anchorages. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS41A |  |  |  |  |
Neiafu X 18°39.0’S, 174°00.0’W | Neiafu NW 18°37.5’S, 174°05.5’W | Duff N 16°41.0’S, 178°56.0’W Nanuku E 16°40.5’S, 179°06.0’W |  |  |
|  | Taveuni S |  |  |
|  | 16°50.0’S, 179°53.5’E Vanua Levu SW 16°50.5’S, 179°15.0’E |  |  |
|  | Savusavu SW | Savusavu W | Savusavu | 418
|  | 16°49.6’S, 179°15.5’E | 16°46.6’S, 179°19.0’E | 16°46.6’S, 179°20.0’E |
|  | Nairai N | Ovalau E | Levuka | 465
|  | 17°40.5’S, 179°24.0’E | 17°40.8’S, 178°51.0’W | 17°41.0’S, 178°50.2’W |
Route PS41B |  |  |  |  |
Neiafu X | Neiafu NW | Oneata E 18°28.5’S, 178°14.0’W Oneata W 18°30.0’S, 178°44.0’W |  |  |
|  | Moala N 18°26.0’S, 179°55.0’E | Suva S 18°12.0’S, 178°23.2’E | Suva 18°08.0’S, 178°24.0’E | 441
Route PS41C |  |  |  |  |
Nuku’alofa X 21°07.3’S, 175°10.5’W | Egeria S 21°02.8’S, 175°16.2’W | Egeria N 21°00.8’S, 175°18.0’W Tongatapu NW 20°54.8’S, 175°25.0’W Vatoa N 19°35.0’S, 178°10.0’W |  |  |
|  | Matuku S 19°17.5’S, 179°44.5’E | Suva S | Suva | 421

Passages between the two neighbouring island groups can be made at any time of the year, although the cyclone season should be avoided, especially the period from January to March when both the islands and the waters between them are crossed by cyclones. During July and August, when the SE trade winds are at their strongest, the passage can be rough. At the beginning and end of the winter season the winds are lighter, and sailing conditions are usually more pleasant.

There are several passes between Tonga and Fiji and only the most commonly used are described here. Route PS41A offers the option of approaching the Fijian Islands from the NE by using the Nanuku Passage. A direct course can be sailed from Neiafu to the waypoint that is set well clear of the northern extremity of Duff Reef. The Nanuku Passage is entered north of Vailangilala light, which marks the eastern side of the pass. This side of the wide pass should be favoured because the southern extremity of the extensive Nanuku Reef, which lies on the NW side of the passage, is not marked by a light. Great care should be exercised when approaching the Nanuku Passage because of the strong currents. The nearest Fijian port of entry is at Savusavu, on the south coast of Vanua Levu. The entrance into Savusavu Lagoon is marked by a light but it should be approached with caution as the light is on the reef, which extends into the pass, so the light should be given a wide berth. The 5 miles that need to be sailed inside the lagoon to reach Savusavu are clear. Call Waitui Marina on channel 80 or Copra Shed (channel 16) to be allocated a mooring.

Boats bound for Suva may find it more convenient to clear into Fiji at Levuka on Ovalau Island. Having made landfall north of Nairai Island, the route passes close to the south of the light marking the Wakaya Reef and continues to the pass on the east side of Ovalau Island leading to Levuka. Arriving boats should make their way to the commercial wharf and contact the authorities on channel

16. Formalities here are reported to be simpler than at Suva, and therefore it may be preferable to deal with entry formalities here. A cruising permit must be obtained from the appropriate authority after the formalities have been completed.

Route PS41B uses the Oneata Passage, in the centre of the Lau group, at this is the most direct way from Vava’u to Fiji’s capital Suva. The Oneata Passage should be negotiated in daylight only because of the extensive reefs on its sides and the absence of reliable lights. Once through, the route continues north of Moala Island and on to Suva. For the last few miles, the course runs parallel to the reef as far as the entrance into the Daveta Levu Passage, which leads into Suva Harbour. The approaches are well buoyed and lit and there are clear range markers making it easy to enter this harbour even at night if necessary. Port control should be contacted on channel 16, and arriving boats are usually directed to the quarantine anchorage near the Royal Suva Yacht Club. The club will arrange to bring the officials to the boat for clearance formalities. Weekends and late arrivals should be avoided as an overtime charge applies to out of hours formalities. Going ashore anywhere in Fiji before clearing in first at one of the ports of entry is strictly prohibited. Yachts arriving from overseas must complete an advance notification form (C2-C) 48 hours before ETA. The form can be downloaded from the customs website https://www.frcs.org.fj and emailed, with a photo of the boat and a scan of the captain’s passport, to yachtsreport@frcs. org.fj. On arrival boats must proceed to the designated quarantine area. A cruising permit must be obtained from the appropriate authority after the clearing-in formalities have been completed.

Warning: check the local time on arrival in Fiji.

• PS42 Northbound from Tonga

BEST TIME: | June to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | South Pacific Anchorages. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS42A |  |  |  |  |
Neiafu X 18°39.0’S, 174°00.0’W | Neiafu NW 18°37.5’S, 174°05.5’W | Tutuila SW 14°23.5’S, 170°44.5’W | Pago Pago S 14°18.0’S, 170°39.8’W | Pago Pago 14°17.0’S, 170°40.2’W | 332
|  | Upolu E 13°57.5’S, 171°18.5’W | Apia N 13°46.0’S, 171°44.6’W | Apia 13°49.0’S, 171°45.5’W | 359
Route PS42B |  |  |  |  |
Neiafu X | Neiafu NW | Niuatoputapu W 15°58.0’S, 173°49.8’W |  |  |
|  | Niuatoputapu NW 15°55.8’S, 173°48.6’W | Niuatoputapu N 15°55.4’S, 173°45.6’W | Niuatoputapu 15°56.0’S, 173°45.6’W | 172
Route PS42C |  |  |  |  |
Neiafu X | Neiafu NW | Toku N 18°08.0’S, 174°09.0’W Fonualei E 18°01.0’S, 174°16.5’W |  |  |
|  | Niua Fo’ou W 15°35.0’S, 175°41.0’W |  | Niua Fo’ou 15°34.0’S, 175°38.3’W | 215
|  | Wallis S 13°25.0’S, 176°14.0’W | Honikulu 13°23.5’S, 176°13.0’W | Mata Utu X 13°17.2’S, 176°10.0’W | 355

The weather on this route can be very variable and even at the height of the SE trade wind season one can never be sure what conditions to expect. Violent squalls are sometimes experienced in this area and also electric storms with tremendous sheets of lightning and thunder. These conditions can occur throughout the year. The cyclone-prone months of January to March should be avoided as cyclones have crossed through this area in the past without hitting either Tonga or Samoa.

Most boats take their leave from Tonga in Vava’u from where there is a relatively clear run to both Samoas (PS42A). After leaving Vava’u through the Faihava Pass, a direct course can be set to make landfall SE of Upolu. The official port of entry into Samoa is the capital Apia, where 48 hours’ advance notification of arrival is required by emailing portmaster@spasamoa.ws. On entering territorial waters harbour control should be called on channel 16. On arrival, boats should proceed directly to Apia Marina.

Boats bound for American Samoa should set a more easterly course to make landfall off the south coast of Tutuila, in the approaches to Pago Pago. This is the only official port of entry in American Samoa, where on arrival yachts should go directly to the clearance dock.

The Kingdom of Tonga spreads well to the north of Vava’u, with several small islands worth a detour to visit their isolated communities. A detour to Niuatoputapu can easily be incorporated into a passage to either Samoa or Wallis. Route PS42B outlines the approaches to the narrow buoyed channel leading through the reef into the perfectly landlocked Niuatoputapu Harbour. Boats arriving from outside Tonga may clear in here.

Boats bound for Wallis should take route PS42C, which passes close to both Toku and Fonualei Islands. The isolated Tongan outpost Niua Fo’ou is on this route and worth a brief stop. The high rocky island is an active volcano, with a large lake in its central crater. There is an anchorage on the west side of the island, off the village of Futu, and the main settlement, Angaha, is on the north of the island. From here, the route continues north to Wallis and makes landfall off the Honikulu Pass, which leads to the capital Mata Utu. Wallis is a French overseas territory, like its western neighbour Futuna. See PS45 for details on approaches and formalities in both Wallis and Futuna.

• PS43 Tonga to New Zealand

BEST TIME: | October to early November |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P13a Fiji and Tonga to | New Zealand |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Coastal Cruising Handbook of the Royal Arakana Yacht Club, Pickmere’s Atlas of Northland’s East Coast, Destination New Zealand, Pacific Crossing Guide. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Nuku’alofa X 21°07.3’S, 175°10.5’W | Egeria S 21°02.8’S, 175°16.2’W | Egeria N 21°00.8’S, 175°18.0’W Ha’atufu W 21°04.0’S, 175°21.0’W Tongatapu SW 21°09.0’S, 175°26.5’W Ata W 22°20.0’S, 176°15.0’W |  |  |
|  | [Raoul E 29°16.0’S, 177°50.0’W Raoul S] 29°18.7’S, 177°55.5’W Knights E 35°27.0’S, 174°58.5’E Cuvier N 36°22.5’S, 175°43.0’E | Raoul SE 29°17.0’S, 177°53.5’W Cape Brett 35°08.0’S, 174°19.2’E Whangarei SE 35°54.0’S, 174°33.8’E | Raoul 29°17.0’S, 177°55.0’W Opua X 35°18.7’S, 174°07.5’E Whangarei X 35°48.0’S, 174°26.0’E | 534 1043 1063
|  | Colville N 36°23.0’S, 175°23.0’E | Matangi E 36°36.0’S, 174°57.3’E | Auckland X 36°51.0’S, 174°48.0’E | 1103

This passage is normally made just before the onset of the cyclone season, which officially starts in November, although tropical storms have very rarely been recorded in the first half of this month. Those who are tempted to leave on this passage too early risk encountering wintry weather further south. The westerly winds of the Roaring Forties reach their peak, and are further north, in the months after the spring equinox, in September, October and November. For this reason many are reluctant to approach New Zealand until mid- or late-November, although by this time the chances of an early cyclone should also be borne in mind. During the austral spring in New Zealand cold fronts tend to cross the Northland area once every few days, and certainly once a week. This means that on a southbound passage a front will be met at some point. The recommended tactic is to watch the weather maps and deliberately choose to encounter a front in mid-passage, somewhere near latitude 30°S. The advantage of this tactic is that the passage will start in pre-frontal conditions, usually in E or NE winds and settled weather. The other advantage is that the front will be met in a latitude where it is usually quite weak. Finally, New Zealand will be approached at the optimum point of the weather cycle, between fronts, possibly with a light SW wind or a northerly flow ahead of the next front. The possible disadvantage of this tactic is that some fronts are followed by a day or two of strong SW gale force winds and a heavy swell. It is also possible that, after the front has passed, there will be a rapid switch to SE winds and the generation of a squash zone. The answer to that is to avoid leaving if a strong front is forecast, especially during the windier months of September or October.

The direct course from Tongatapu leads close to the Minerva Reefs, which can be visited in settled weather. There is an anchorage inside North Minerva Reef, which can be reached through a pass on its NW side. The coordinates of the pass are reported as 23°37.0’S, 178°57.0’W. The suggested anchorage at 23°39.4’S, 178°54.0’W provides adequate protection in SE winds, especially at low tide when the reef is exposed. The lagoon of South Minerva Reef (23°56.0’S, 179°07.0’W) is also accessible, but more difficult to navigate due to many scattered coral heads. It is possible to anchor off the NW entrance into the lagoon. However, if one does not intend to stop at the Minerva Reefs it is wiser to give them a wide berth as many vessels have come to grief on these reefs lurking in mid-ocean.

Having left Tongatapu through the Egeria Channel, the initial course passes just west of Ha’atufu Point to avoid Duff Reef located further west. It then passes close to the west of Ata Island. From there, the route stays well to the east of the Minerva Reefs. Depending on the direction of the wind after having passed the Minerva Reefs, it is advisable to steer a course that would intersect the meridian of New Zealand’s North Cape well to the north of it. The reason for making sufficient westing early in the passage is to counteract the possibility of a SW gale later on. This precaution is worth taking, especially if this passage is made during the winter months (May to October), but from November onwards it is probably just as well to steer the shortest course for the desired destination.

The direct route to Auckland passes close enough to the Kermadec Islands to consider stopping there. The islands belong to New Zealand and are a protected area where only temporary stops are allowed at the indicated anchorage on Raoul Island.

Three possible New Zealand landfalls have been listed. Those bound for the Bay of Islands should set a course for Cape Brett and continue to Opua to complete entry formalities. All boats are required to contact customs before they make landfall and follow instructions to the recommended place to berth.

Boats bound for Whangarei, further down North Island’s east coast, should set a direct course to make landfall off Bream Head, in the approaches to Whangarei. From there, a long but well-buoyed river channel leads to the port of Whangarei.

Those who are bound for Auckland should sail a course that passes east of Great Barrier Island and makes landfall north of Cuvier Island. From there, the Colville Channel is followed into the Gulf of Hauraki. There are several marinas in the Auckland area, and it is advisable to make berthing arrangements in advance so as to be able to proceed directly to the marina on arrival.

Yachts arriving from overseas must contact the authorities 48 hours prior to their ETA, to arrange clearance on arrival. This can be done via email to yachts@customs. govt.nz. On arrival boats must come to the official quarantine dock to complete formalities.

• PS44 Samoa to Tonga

BEST TIME: | June to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | South Pacific Anchorages, Cruising Guide to the Vava’u Island Group. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Pago Pago 14°17.0’S, 170°40.2’W Apia 13°49.0’S, 171°45.5’W | Pago Pago S 14°18.0’S, 170°39.8’W Apia N 13°46.0’S, 171°44.6’W | Tutuila SW 14°23.5’S, 170°44.5’W Upolu E 13°57.5’S, 171°18.5’W |  |  |
|  | [Niuatoputapu N 15°55.4’S, 173°45.6’W |  | Niuatoputapu 15°56.0’S, 173°45.6’W | 206/216
|  | Niuatoputapu NW 15°55.8’S, 173°48.6’W Niuatoputapu W] 15°58.0’S, 173°49.8’W |  |  |
|  | Vava’u N | Neiafu NW | Neiafu X | 332/359
|  | 18°31.0’S, 173°57.5’W | 18°37.5’S, 174°05.5’W | 18°39.0’S, 174°00.0’W |

The weather on this route can be very variable and even at the height of the SE trade wind season one can never be sure what conditions to expect. Violent squalls are sometimes experienced in this area and also electric storms with tremendous sheets of lightning and thunder. These conditions can occur throughout the year. Passages during the cyclone season should be avoided as the area is sometimes crossed by tropical storms.

Whether leaving from Pago Pago or Apia, once the open sea has been reached, a direct course can be sailed to make landfall on the north side of Vava’u. The Faihava Pass, on the west side of the island, leads into Neiafu, one of the best protected anchorages in the South Pacific. Neiafu is the capital of Tonga’s northern group and an official port of entry into the kingdom. The small town of Neiafu is spread on its northern shore and various offices need to be visited to complete arrival formalities. As a popular charter base, facilities in Neiafu are among the best in the Central South Pacific.

Southbound boats can now clear into Tonga at Niuatoputapu, but a stop at this island, conveniently placed halfway between Samoa and Vava’u, should only be attempted in settled weather. The island has a protected lagoon, which can be entered through a pass on the NW of the island. The pass is easier to identify at low tide when the reef becomes visible. Range markers, which must be brought in line, indicate the break in the reef. If the weather is unsettled, it is safer to proceed directly to Neiafu, on Vava’u, which can be entered under most conditions. See PS36 for details on entry formalities..

• PS45 Samoa to Fiji

BEST TIME: | June to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P8 Voyages from Tahiti |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Fiji Notes Lau Group, South Pacific Anchorages. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS45A |  |  |  |  |
Pago Pago 14°17.0’S, 170°40.2’W Apia 13°49.0’S, 171°45.5’W | Pago Pago S 14°18.0’S, 170°39.8’W Apia N 13°46.0’S, 171°44.6’W | Tutuila SW 14°23.5’S, 170°44.5’W Upolu N 13°41.6’S, 171°52.6’W Upolu W 13°48.5’S, 172°10.2’W |  |  |
|  | [Niua Fo’ou N] 15°33.0’S, 175°38.0’W Nanuku E 16°40.5’S, 179°06.0’W |  | Niua Fo’ou 15°34.0’S, 175°38.3’W | 300/258
|  | Taveuni S |  |  |
|  | 16°50.0’S, 179°53.5’E Vanua Levu SW 16°50.5’S, 179°15.0’E |  |  |
|  | Savusavu SW 16°49.6’S, 179°15.5’E Nairai N 17°40.5’S, 179°24.0’E | Savusavu W 16°46.6’S, 179°19.0’E Ovalau E 17°40.8’S, 178°51.0’W | Savusavu 16°46.6’S, 179°20.0’E Levuka 17°41.0’S, 178°50.2’W | 613/570 690/646
Route PS45B |  |  |  |  |
Apia | Apia N | Upolu N Savai’i N 13°22.5’S, 172°17.0’W |  |  |
|  | Asau NE 13°25.3’S, 172°36.9’W | Asau N 13°28.5’S, 172°39.3’W | Asau 13°30.0’S, 172°38.8’W | 68
|  | Wallis S 13°25.0’S, 176°14.0’W | Honikulu 13°23.5’S, 176°13.0’W | Mata Utu X 13°17.2’S, 176°10.0’W | 282
|  | [Futuna N] 14°11.6’S, 178°12.0’W |  | Leava 14°17.9’S, 178°09.8’W | 388
|  | [Alofi S] |  | Alofi | 387
|  | 14°23.0’S, 178°02.0’W Fiji NE 15°53.0’S, 179°16.8’W Taveuni N 16°26.5’S, 179°48.0’W |  | 14°19.4’S, 178°03.9’W |
|  | Taveuni SW |  |  |
|  | 16°50.0’S, 179°53.5’E |  |  |
|  | Vanua Levu SW |  |  |
|  | 16°50.5’S, 179°15.0’E |  |  |
|  | Savusavu SW | Savusavu W | Savusavu | 594
|  | Nairai N | Ovalau E | Levuka | 641

Boats leaving Pago Pago bound for Fiji should make their way to the SW of Tutuila from where a direct course can be set for the Nanuku Passage, on the NE side of the Fijian Archipelago. Boats sailing to Fiji from Apia will reach the open sea by sailing through the Apolima Strait, between the Samoan islands of Upolu and Savai’i, and then setting a course for the Nanuku Passage. Both routes pass close to the Tongan island of Niua Fo’ou and in settled weather it is possible to stop briefly at this high volcanic island. There is an anchorage in an open roadstead off the main settlement Angaha, on the north side of the island, or a more protected anchorage on the west side, off Futu village. Whether stopping there or not, it is then a clear run to make landfall north of the light on Vailangilala, marking the eastern side of the Nanuku Passage. As only this eastern side of the pass is marked by a light it should be favoured, as there is no light on the southern extremity of Nanuku Reef, on the west side of the passage. Great care should be exercised when approaching the Nanuku Passage as the currents in this area can be very strong. Having entered the Koro Sea, there is a choice of two official ports of entry. The closer is Savusavu, on the south coast of Vanua Levu Island. See PS41 for details on the approach and facilities. Close to the route to the capital Suva is Levuka on Ovalau Island. Having made landfall north of Nairai Island, the route passes close to the south of the light marking Wakaya Reef and continues to the pass on the east side of Ovalau Island leading to Levuka. Arriving boats should make their way to the commercial wharf and contact the authorities on channel 16. A cruising permit must be obtained from the appropriate authority after the clearing-in formalities have been completed.

Route PS45B reaches Fiji by a longer but more attractive route as it gives the opportunity to call first at Samoa’s larger island of Sava’i and also stops at the two French overseas territories of Wallis and Futuna. Starting off from Apia, the route follows the north coast of Savai’i to the port of Asau. From Cape Mulinuu, at the western extremity of Savai’i, a course can be set to make landfall SW of Faioa Island, at the SE extremity of the large Wallis Lagoon. Care should be exercised when approaching Wallis from the east as the island’s position is reported to be incorrect and it lies about two miles further east than its charted position. The danger is compounded by the fact that the reef surrounding the lagoon is sometimes difficult to see. The entrance into the lagoon, the Honikulu Pass, is on the south side of the lagoon. There is a strong current at ebb tide, so it is better to negotiate the pass on a flood tide or at slack water, especially when the sea is rough. On an ebb tide the outflowing current can set at 6 knots and there are dangerous overfalls outside the pass. The passes and reefs inside the lagoon are well marked. Formalities are completed at Mata Utu, the main settlement on Uvea. If conditions at this anchorage are uncomfortable, visiting yachts are allowed to anchor in Gahi Bay, on the SE corner of the main island of Uvea.

From Wallis, the route continues west passing close to the Horne Islands, made up of Futuna and Alofi. Those who wish to stop can make landfall at the north of Futuna, or the south extremity of Alofi. Leava is the main settlement on Futuna and Alofi on the island of that same name.

Boats approaching the Fijian Islands from a northerly direction will enter the archipelago north of the Nggelelevu Atoll and reach the Koro Sea through the Somosomo Strait separating Taveuni and Vanua Levu Islands.

Both these routes lie within the SE trade wind belt and for the best part of the year winds tend to have an easterly component.

Although lying to the east of the 180º meridian, both Wallis and Futuna have decided to keep the same date as New Caledonia, the nearest French territory to the west. This means that Wallis is one day ahead of Samoa.

• PS46 Northbound from Samoa

BEST TIME: | May to August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4052, US 52 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Landfalls of Paradise, South Pacific Anchorages. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS46A |  |  |  |  |
Pago Pago 14°17.0’S, 170°40.2’W | Pago Pago S 14°18.0’S, 170°39.8’W | Tutuila SW 14°23.5’S, 170°44.5’W Tutuila W 14°19.0’S, 170°53.5’W Upolu NE 13°40.0’S, 171°24.4’W |  |  |
Apia 13°49.0’S, 171°45.5’W | Apia N 13°46.0’S, 171°44.6’W | Upolu N 13°41.6’S, 171°52.6’W |  |  |
|  | Savai’i N |  |  |
|  | 13°22.5’S, 172°17.0’W |  |  |
|  | [Asau NE] 13°25.3’S, 172°36.9’W | Asau N 13°28.5’S, 172°39.3’W | Asau 13°30.0’S, 172°38.8’W | 150/68
|  | [Wallis S] 13°25.0’S, 176°14.0’W | Honikulu 13°23.5’S, 176°13.0’W | Mata Utu X 13°17.2’S, 176°10.0’W | 356/282
|  | [Nukulaelae W] 9°24.0’S, 179°43.0’E | Funafuti S 8°39.0’S, 179°10.0’E | Fongafale 8°31.4’S, 179°11.6’E | 716/642
Route PS46B |  |  |  |  |
Pago Pago | Pago Pago S | Tutuila SW Tutuila W |  |  |
Apia | Apia N | Upolu NE | Fakaofo W 9°22.0’S, 171°17.0’W | Fakaofo 9°22.2’S, 171°15.7’W | 317/275
|  |  | Nukunonu SW 9°12.8’S, 171°52.2’W | Nukunonu 9°11.8’S, 171°50.7’W | 331/283
|  | Orona E 4°30.0’S, 171°59.0’W | Canton W 2°47.8’S, 171°44.1’W | Canton 2°48.0’S, 171°43.0’W | 715/668
Route PS46C |  |  |  |  |
Apia Pago Pago | Apia N Pago Pago S | Upolu NE Tutuila NE 14°15.0’S, 170°31.0’W |  |  |
|  | Kiritimati SW | Kiritimati W | London | 1276/1255
|  | 1°50.0’N, 157°35.5’W | 1°58.5’N, 157°30.0’W | 1°58.8’N, 157°29.0’W |
|  | Kiritimati NW 2°6.0’N, 157°32.0’W |  |  |
|  | Tabuaeran SW 3°46.5’N, 159°20.5’W | Tabuaeran W 3°51.0’N, 159°23.0’W | Tabuaeran 3°51.4’N, 159°22.0’W | 1359/1338
|  |  | Palmyra SW 5°51.8’N, 162°07.4’W | Palmyra 5°52.5’N, 162 °06.5’W | 1525/1504

During the SE trade wind season the winds along all these routes are mostly favourable. The suggested destinations are spread out in a wide arc from Tuvalu to the Line Islands. Much of the region crossed by these routes is in the cyclone area and passages during the critical period should be avoided. One early cyclone devastated Tuvalu in October and because Tuvalu lies close to the hurricane breeding ground south of the equator, tropical storm warnings are less reliable than in other parts of the world.

Having left Samoa, a direct route (PS46A) can be sailed to Funafuti, Tuvalu’s main atoll. The route passes over several banks, but these present no danger to yachts as there is sufficient depth over them. They should only be avoided during strong winds when seas break, but in fair weather it is worth sailing over them as the fishing is excellent. An interesting detour early in the passage is the French-administered Wallis. Its large lagoon has a pass on its south side with a buoyed channel leading to the main settlement at Mata Utu. Refer to PS45 for more details.

On the direct course to Funafuti, the first island to be passed will be Nukulaelae. There is no pass into its lagoon, but in settled weather it is possible to anchor outside the reef off the main settlement on the west side of the atoll. However, as one is supposed to clear in first at Funafuti before visiting any other islands, Nukulaelae may be visited on the return voyage as visiting sailors are always welcomed by the small community.

The official port of entry for Tuvalu is Fongafale, the main settlement on Funafuti, and the capital of this small nation. There are several passes into Funafuti Lagoon, but none of them should be attempted at night or when the visibility is not good. On this route, landfall will be made south of Funafuti Lagoon, which is entered through the South East Pass. Arriving boats should proceed directly to Fongafale and anchor close to the commercial dock. Formalities may only be completed on workdays, so arrivals should be timed between Monday and Friday.

Samoa is a good starting point for a voyage to one of the least visited island groups in the Pacific: Tokelau (route PS46B). Although the Tokelau Islands have a special status and are administered by New Zealand, there is an Office for Tokelau Affairs in Apia, which must be visited to obtain permission to call at these isolated islands. Although they are New Zealand dependencies, the local chiefs have total jurisdiction over their internal affairs. Cruising yachts are normally allowed to stop in Tokelau provided they follow the correct procedure. Tokelau is no longer considered to lie outside the cyclone area and the islands were devastated by Cyclone Percy in February 2005. None of the three islands, Fakaofu, Nukunonu and Atafu, has a safe all-weather anchorage. There are day anchorages in the lee of each atoll and all have had passes blasted through the reef to provide access by small boat. There is a ship’s buoy on the SW side of Nukunonu that is used by the supply ship. There is a relatively well-sheltered anchorage in the lee of Fenuafala Island, on the SW side of the Fakaofu Atoll. As this is also the main settlement, formalities will have to be completed there.

Tokelau is an interesting stop for boats heading north towards the Phoenix Islands, passing on the way the uninhabited Orona Atoll. In the Phoenix Islands the best shelter will be found at Canton Island, once a thriving military base, now home to a number of families from Kiribati, to whom it belongs. There is an anchorage on the west side of the atoll, and a channel leading into the lagoon, but this should only be attempted at slack water as tidal streams are very strong. A sheltered basin has been blasted out of the reef on the west side of the lagoon. There is a depth of only 6 ft (1.80 m) in the small basin. It has been reported that the atoll’s position differs from its depiction on current charts.

Route PS46C is strictly a transequatorial route, but as Canton is often used as an intermediate stop by northbound passages to Hawaii, the Line Islands are conveniently located along that route and are therefore mentioned here. The Line Islands also belong to Kiribati and are described in more detail in PT22.

• PS47 Eastbound from Samoa and Tonga

BEST TIME: | October, May to June |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P6 Voyages from New Zealand |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | South Pacific Anchorages, Polynesia. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS47A |  |  |  |  |
Neiafu X 18°39.0’S, 174°00.0’W Pago Pago 14°17.0’S, 170°40.2’W | Neiafu NW 18°37.5’S, 174°05.5’W Pago Pago S 14°18.0’S, 170°39.8’W | Vava’u N 18°31.0’S, 173°57.5’W Tutuila SE 14°18.5’S, 170°32.8’W |  |  |
|  | Manihiki SW 10°28.5’S, 161°02.5’W | Manihiki W 10°25.5’S, 161°03.1’W | Manihiki 10°25.5’S, 161°02.3’W | 911/614
|  | Penrhyn W 8°58.0’S, 158°05.0’W |  | Omoka 8°58.5’S, 158°03.0’W | 1105/809
|  |  | Bora Bora W 16°29.2’S, 151°48.5’W | Vaitape 16°30.0’S, 151°45.4’W | 1291/1102
Route PS47B |  |  |  |  |
Nuku’alofa X | Piha Pass E | Tongatapu E | Rarotonga NW | Avatiu | 861
21°07.3’S, 175°10.5’W | 21°06.8’S, 175°3.4’W | 21°05.2’S, 174°58.0’W Rarotonga N 21°10.5’S, 159°47.0’W Moorea S 17°38.0’S, 149°49.0’W | 21°11.0’S, 159°51.0’W | 21°11.8’S, 159°47.0’W |
|  | Papeete W 17°31.5’S, 149°39.0’W | Papeete N 17°32.0’S, 149°35.2’W | Papeete 17°32.6’S, 149 °34.8’W | 1465

Only a few boats attempt to make this passage against the prevailing winds and the advice is to avoid it if at all possible. The only months when there is at least a chance of some favourable winds are the summer months, December to early April. This is the time when the SE trade winds are at their weakest and least consistent, and there is a reasonable chance of occasional westerly winds on the direct route. Unfortunately it is also the cyclone season, with February and March being the most likely months for cyclones. Therefore the only time when this passage should be attempted is at the change of seasons, when the risk of cyclones is acceptably low, either in the second half of November or early May. The risk of cyclones can be minimised by sailing a northern route and possibly calling at Penrhyn, or other islands in the Northern Cooks. On the northern route PS47A the winds at the change of seasons would be light, so one could cover at least part of the distance under power.

Although boats have attempted to sail this route as close to the rhumb line as possible by calling at the Cook Islands (route PS47B), the passage can be difficult even at the best time, which is the change of seasons when the SE trade winds are not yet fully established. The feasibility of this passage depends very much on the type of yacht attempting it, as a boat that goes well to windward may accomplish it without too much hardship. It is also important to wait both at the start and in the Cooks, if a stop is made there, for favourable conditions for the subsequent passage. Throughout the year, and especially at the change of seasons, westerly winds are not uncommon in this area. They are usually generated by passing fronts, which are the kind of conditions one should wait for to make the necessary easting.

A safer, if considerably longer, route can be sailed during the winter months from May to October (route PS47C). This entails sailing south in search of westerly winds and making easting between latitudes 30ºS and 35ºS, before turning north for Tahiti. Refer to route PS67, which outlines an eastbound passage from New Zealand to Tahiti.

Boats bound for Tahiti must contact the port captain on channel 12 before entering Papeete Harbour. Arriving boats should proceed to Papeete Marina and complete formalities by visiting customs and immigration. It is compulsory to complete an arrival declaration, available from the marina, and email it to trafficmaritime@portppt.pf.

PS50 • Routes in the Central Pacific

• | PS51 | Fiji to Samoa | 419
• | PS52 | to Tonga | 420
• | PS53 | Fiji to Vanuatu | 421
• | PS54 | Fiji to New Caledonia | 422
• | PS55 | Fiji to New Zealand | 423
• | PS56 | Fiji to Tuvalu | 424
• | PS57 | Wallis to Fiji | 425
• | PS58 | Wallis to Tuvalu | 426
• | PS59 | Southbound from Tuvalu | 427

PS50 Routes in the Central Pacific

Because of its strategic position astride the main sailing routes of the South Pacific, as well as its many cruising attractions, Fiji plays a special role among those who cruise in this area. The capital Suva, in particular, has long been a favourite port of call for anyone passing through, partly because repair facilities are better than in any of the neighbouring islands and the Royal Suva Yacht Club is one of the most welcoming in the South Pacific.

With the exception of Melanesian Vanuatu and New Caledonia, Fiji is surrounded by Polynesian islands. Popular routes link Fiji with all its neighbours, although the northbound routes to Wallis, Futuna and Tuvalu are less frequented. For most New Zealand sailors, Fiji is the natural tropical destination. Many of those who do not have the time for a longer cruise among the islands of the South Pacific manage to squeeze into their sailing plans a return trip to Fiji, often in the form of a race, such as the annual Auckland to Suva race. There is therefore considerable traffic between the two countries, the busiest time being late October, when cruising boats whose owners do not wish to spend the cyclone season in the tropics make their way south to New Zealand.

The tropical cyclone season in the southern hemisphere starts in November, and by some in December. Statistically the risk of a cyclone doubles in November and doubles again in December. For this reason most cruising sailors migrate from the tropics to the relative tranquillity of Australia or New Zealand in October. A great exodus takes place every year around that time as cruising boats head out of the tropics to spend the summer in a safer area. The best time to make this passage is on the eve of the cyclone season, late in October or early in November. Such a timing allows a stay in the tropics to the end of the safe season and a passage to New Zealand without much danger of encountering a late-winter gale. The chance of a gale does not seem to worry the skippers of New Zealand boats returning home, who often make this passage earlier than other nationalities. The westerly winds of the Roaring Forties reach their peak, and are further north, in the months after the spring equinox, in September, October and November. For this reason many are reluctant to approach New Zealand until mid- or late-November, although by this time the chances of an early cyclone should also be borne in mind.

Although passages to New Zealand have been made at all times of year, it would be dangerous to set off during the cyclone season without a reliable forecast, as the tracks of some storms that have hit Fiji in the past almost coincide with the route to New Zealand. The central area of the South Pacific is hit by at least one tropical cyclone every year, so this must be taken into account when drawing up cruising plans, and the area is best avoided between December and April. Although there are supposedly hurricane-proof harbours, such as at Pago Pago in American Samoa and Neiafu in Tongan Vava’u, in Fiji itself no place is considered absolutely secure, especially as the few safe places are usually taken up by local boats as soon as a hurricane warning is issued. Such a place is the Tradewinds anchorage and surrounding area, which gets extremely crowded due to its proximity to Suva. Savusavu is reported to be a safe place during the cyclone season and Vuda Point Marina on Viti Levu’s west coast has in-ground cyclone berths for keeled boats. During the remaining part of the year, particularly from June to September, the SE trade winds ensure good sailing conditions.

• PS51 Fiji to Samoa

BEST TIME: | May to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | South Pacific Anchorages. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Savusavu 16°46.6’S, 179°20.0’E | Savusavu W 16°46.6’S, 179°19.0’E | Savusavu SW 16°49.6’S, 179°15.5’E Vanua Levu SW 16°50.5’S, 179°15.0’E Taveuni S 17°05.5’S, 179°47.0’E |  |  |
Levuka 17°41.0’S, 178°50.2’E | Ovalau E 17°40.8’S, 178°51.0’E | Nairai N 17°40.5’S, 179°24.0’E |  |  |
|  | Nanuku E |  |  |
|  | 16°40.5’S, 179°06.0’W |  |  |
|  | Upolu W 13°48.5’S, 172°10.2’W | Upolu N 13°41.6’S, 171°52.6’W | Apia 13°49.0’S, 171°45.5’W | 570/646
|  | Tutuila SW 14°23.5’S, 170°44.5’W | Pago Pago S 14°18.0’S, 170°39.8’W | Pago Pago 14°17.0’S, 170°40.2’W | 613/690

For this passage it is best to leave Fiji through the Nanuku Passage. As this means crossing the entire Koro Sea, it is more convenient to clear out at Levuka or Savusavu. However, as Fijian officials are less strict about boats stopping en route after having cleared out than on their way into Fiji, boats may stop at various islands on their way NE through the Fijian Archipelago. The cruising permit obtained on arrival should still be usable if making short stops at one of the outer islands when leaving Fiji.

At the height of the SE trade winds, in July and August, this can be a rough windward passage, when the opportunity to stop en route will be greatly appreciated. However, there are times when the trade winds betray their name and are less consistent than expected, which makes for easier sailing conditions. The weather between Fiji and Samoa can be quite stormy at times.

The most convenient place to clear out of Fiji is Levuka, on the island of Ovalau. From outside the reef, an initial course is set to pass south of Wakaya and also clear Thakaumomo Reef. From that point, the route runs right across the Koro Sea and leaves Fijian waters through the Nanuku Passage.

From its eastern end, boats bound for Apia should set a course for the Apolima Strait, between Savai’i and Upolu, and follow the latter’s north coast to their destination. Formalities are normally completed at Apia Marina. Samoa now requires 48 hours’ advance notification of arrival. Email portmaster@spasamoa.ws.

The same route should be sailed by those bound for Pago Pago, in American Samoa, who may be unable to sail a direct course to that port on account of the weather. The gap between the islands of Upolu and Tutuila is sometimes difficult to cross in strong winds, and if Pago Pago cannot be reached from SW, the north coast of Tutuila should be followed around and Pago Pago reached from the east. The only official port of entry in American Samoa is Pago Pago, where on arrival yachts should call the port captain on channel 16 for berthing instructions.

• PS52 Fiji to Tonga

BEST TIME: | June, October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | South Pacific Anchorages, Cruising Guide to the Vava’u Island Group. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS52A |  |  |  |  |
Suva 18°08.0’S, 178°24.0’E | Suva S 18°12.0’S, 178°23.2’E | Matuku S 19°17.5’S, 179°44.5’E Vatoa N 19°35.0’S, 178°10.0’W Tongatapu NW 20°54.8’S, 175°25.0’W |  |  |
|  | Egeria N 21°00.8’S, 175°18.0’W | Egeria S 21°02.8’S, 175°16.2’W | Nuku’alofa X 21°07.3’S, 175°10.5’W | 421
Route PS52B |  |  |  |  |
Levuka 17°41.0’S, 178°50.2’E Suva | Ovalau E 17°40.8’S, 178°51.0’E Suva S | Nairai N 17°40.5’S, 179°24.0’E Nasilai S 18°12.0’S, 178°43.0’E Moala N 18°26.0’S, 179°55.0’E |  |  |
|  | Oneata W |  |  |
|  | 18°30.0’S, 178°44.0’W |  |  |
|  | Oneata E 18°28.5’S, 178°14.0’W | Neiafu NW 18°37.5’S, 174°05.5’W | Neiafu X 18°39.0’S, 174°00.0’W | 434/441

There are several passes that can be used to reach Tonga from Fiji but because of the prevailing SE winds only two can be recommended. Boats bound for Tongatapu should use the southern route PS52A. From Suva, a direct course can be set to pass south of Matuku and continue east through the wide gap separating Vatua and Ongea Levu Islands. Boats bound for the Tongan capital Nuku’alofa should use the Egeria Pass to enter the lagoon. Visiting yachts may use the small boat harbour at Faua, located east of the capital, near the commercial harbour. The entrance has a depth of 8.5 ft (2.6 m) at low tide and the basin has been dredged to a depth of 9 ft (3.0 m) inside. Entry formalities are completed at the nearby port and customs offices.

Whether departing from Suva or Levuka, the Oneata Passage should be used by boats bound for Vava’u. From the eastern end of the pass, a direct course can be sailed to make landfall on the west side of Vava’u. The Faihava Pass leads into Neiafu, one of the best-protected anchorages in the South Pacific. Neiafu is the capital of Tonga’s northern group and an official port of entry into the kingdom. The small town of Neiafu is spread on the northern shore and various offices need to be visited to complete arrival formalities. As a popular charter base, facilities in Neiafu are among the best in the Central South Pacific.

The best time to sail to Tonga is either at the end or before the onset of the cyclone season. If Fiji is left before the start of the SE trade winds season, the chances of encountering a late cyclone are remote and sailing conditions are less strenuous than later in the year. Similarly, for a departure in late October or early November the chance of an early cyclone is minimal. By this time the SE winds would also be less strong and consistent than earlier.

Both routes pass several islands in the Lau group where the passage may be interrupted, but permission to stop, especially for longer stays, must be obtained in advance. Yachts arriving from overseas must submit an advance notice of arrival no less than 24 hours before their ETA in Tonga. The form should be emailed to info@customs.gov.to and can be downloaded from https://www.noonsite.com/place/tonga/formalities/.

Warning: Tonga is one hour ahead of Fiji, as the 180º meridian will be crossed on this passage.

• PS53 Fiji to Vanuatu

BEST TIME: | June to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Pacific Crossing Guide, South Pacific Anchorages. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Suva 18°08.0’S, 178°24.0’E | Suva S 18°12.0’S, 178°23.2’E | Beqa E 18°18.0’S, 178°09.0’E Beqa W 18°19.2’S, 177°59.0’E |  |  |
Lautoka X 17°36.5’S, 177°26.3’E Musket Cove X 17°46.3’S, 177°11.2’E | Denarau W 17°46.2’S, 177°21.3’E Malololailai E 17°47.8’S, 177°12.0’E | Tavarua E 17°50.4’S, 177°14.2’E Navula E 17°55.5’S, 177°13.3’E |  |  |
|  | Navula W 17°56.3’S, 177°09.3’E | Resolution E 19°30.8’S, 169°30.3’E | Port Resolution 19°31.0’S, 169°29.0’E | 516/474/460
|  | Efate S 17°52.5’S, 168°27.0’E |  |  |
|  | Efate SW 17°47.2’S, 168°13.0’E | Port Vila W 17°44.6’S, 168°16.8’E | Port Vila 17°44.3’S, 168°18.5’E | 593/545/531

During the SE trade wind season, winds along this route are mostly fair and there is also a favourable current. Boats leaving from Suva should keep close to the south coast of Viti Levu and go through the Beqa Channel to avoid the reefs surrounding the island of that name (Beqa is pronounced Mbengga). The open sea is reached when Vatulele Island has been passed. Boats leaving from ports on the west coast of Viti Levu should use the Navula Passage from where a direct course can be set for your destination. As the island of Tanna is an official port of entry, boats arriving in Vanuatu can clear in there. The best anchorage is at Port Resolution, on the east coast, where the chieftain of the nearby village has set up a yacht club to welcome visiting sailors. To complete formalities, the official port of entry is at Lenakel, on the west coast, which can be reached overland. During the cruising season, officials from Lenakel come to Port Resolution once a week to clear in boats, but the day this happens needs to be ascertained. The main attraction of Port Resolution is the nearby live Yasur volcano, which is under the guardianship of the Yakel clan whose traditional village is at the foot of this active volcano.

Boats bound for the capital Port Vila should make landfall at the southern extremity of Efate Island. From there, the route continues parallel to the coast to Pango Point before turning into Mele Bay and finally into Port Vila. The well-sheltered port fronting the Vanuatu capital has a small marina managed by Yachting World, a local company looking after the needs of visiting sailors. Boats arriving from overseas are required to give 24 hours prior notice of arrival in Vanuatu. The notice must list details of boat, captain, crew, port of arrival and ETA. Email to CustomsBorder@vanuatu.gov.vu. Arriving boats should contact the authorities on channel 16.

• PS54 Fiji to New Caledonia

BEST TIME: | June to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P13b Fiji to Australia |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to New Caledonia, Pacific Crossing Guide, South Pacific Anchorages. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Suva 18°08.0’S, 178°24.0’E | Suva S 18°12.0’S, 178°23.2’E | Beqa E 18°18.0’S, 178°09.0’E Beqa W 18°19.2’S, 177°59.0’E |  |  |
Lautoka X 17°36.5’S, 177°26.3’E Musket Cove X 17°46.3’S, 177°11.2’E | Lautoka W 16°36.5’S, 177°26.2’E Malololailai E 17°47.8’S, 177°12.0’E | Denarau W 17°46.2’S, 177°21.3’E Tavarua E 17°50.4’S, 177°14.2’E Navula E 17°55.5’S, 177°13.3’E Navula W 17°56.3’S, 177°09.3’E |  |  |
|  | Havannah E |  | Noumea X | 722/689/675
|  | 22°18.0’S, 167°05.0’E |  | 22°17.3’S, 166°26.2’E |
|  | New Cal S 23°10.0’S, 166°56.0’E |  |  |
|  | Boulari SW 22°34.3’S, 166°20.7’E | Boulari Pass 22°30.3’S, 166°26.1’E | Noumea X | 781/750/736

The route leaving from Suva follows the south coast of Viti Levu closely to avoid the reefs surrounding Beqa Island and reaches the open sea south of Vatulele Island. Boats leaving from ports on the west coast of Viti Levu should use the Navula Passage. All foreign-flagged boats must clear in at the capital Noumea, which is the country’s only official port of entry. Yachts are not permitted to stop anywhere in New Caledonian territorial waters before having completed formalities. Noumea can be reached by two different routes, an inshore route via the Havannah Pass, which approaches Noumea from the east, or an offshore route that rounds the south of the island and uses the Boulari Pass to enter the reef-enclosed lagoon from the west.

A direct course leads to the eastern approaches to the Havannah Pass. This pass should be negotiated on a flood tide. Due to the prevailing SE winds the tide sets very strongly through the pass creating large waves when the ebb tide runs against a strong wind. Because of the large landmass, the SE winds become southerly as they are deflected around the main island of New Caledonia.

The longer offshore alternative enters at the Boulari Pass from where a marked channel leads to Noumea. Approaches into Noumea are difficult at night and should not be attempted. If coming from either the Boulari or Havannah Pass, and Noumea cannot be reached in daylight, it is recommended to anchor for the night and enter the port the following morning. Arriving boats should contact Port Moselle on channel 67 to arrange a berth at the visitors’ dock. The marina will contact customs and immigration for clearance. There are four marinas in the Noumea area, but Port Moselle is the most convenient. Yachting facilities are very good thanks to a large local sailing community.

• PS55 Fiji to New Zealand

BEST TIME: | October to mid-November |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P13a Fiji to New Zealand |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Coastal Cruising Handbook of the Royal Arakana Yacht Club, Pickmere’s Atlas of Northland’s East Coast, Destination New Zealand, Pacific Crossing Guide.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Suva 18°08.0’S, 178°24.0’E | Suva S 18°12.0’S, 178°23.2’ | Kandavu N E 18°30.0’S, 178°18.0’E Kandavu SW 19°05.0’S, 177°48.0’E |  |  |
Lautoka X 17°36.5’S, 177°26.3’E Musket Cove X 17°46.3’S, 177°11.2’E | Malololailai E 17°47.8’S, 177°12.0’E | Denarau W 17°46.2’S, 177°21.3’E Tavarua E 17°50.4’S, 177°14.2’E |  |  |
|  | Navula E 17°55.5’S, 177°13.3’E Navula W 17°56.3’S, 177°09.3’E |  |  |
|  | Cape Brett 35°08.0’S, 174°19.2’E Knights E 35°27.0’S, 174°58.5’E Cuvier N 36°22.5’S, 175°43.0’E | Whangarei SE 35°54.0’S, 174°33.8’E | Opua X 35°18.7’S, 174°07.5’E Whangarei X 35°48.0’S, 174°26.0’E | 1063/1085/1071 1128/1150/1136
|  | Colville N 36°23.0’S, 175°23.0’E | Matangi E 36°36.0’S, 174°57.3’E | Auckland X 36°51.0’S, 174°48.0’E | 1168/1194/1180

Favourable winds can be expected for at least the first half of this passage, but south of latitude 30ºS it is very much a matter of luck, regardless of the time of year. Weather conditions on this route can be extremely variable and the reports from several yachts that have made this passage in recent years show that one can expect anything, from motoring in a flat calm for several days to gale force winds from ahead, or a pleasant reach all the way.

During the austral spring in New Zealand cold fronts tend to cross the Northland area once every few days, and certainly once a week. This means that on a southbound passage a front will be met at some point. The recommended tactic is to watch the weather maps and deliberately choose to encounter a front in mid-passage, somewhere near latitude 30°S. The advantage of this tactic is that the passage will start in pre-frontal conditions, usually in E or NE winds and settled weather. The other advantage is that the front will be met at a latitude where it is usually quite weak. Finally, New Zealand will be approached at the optimum point of the weather cycle, between fronts, possibly with a light SW wind or a northerly flow ahead of the next front. The possible disadvantage of this tactic is that some fronts are followed by a day or two of strong SW gale force winds and a heavy swell. It is also possible that, after the front has passed, there will be a rapid switch to SE winds and the generation of a squash zone. The answer to that is to avoid leaving if a strong front is forecast, especially during the windier months of September or October.

Depending on weather conditions when leaving Suva, Astrolabe Reef and Kandavu Island can be passed on either side, although staying in their lee is probably easier by passing between Beqa and Kandavu Islands. Having left Suva Harbour through the Daveta Passage, a course can be set for Kandavu’s Cape Washington, from where a direct course can be sailed to New Zealand. The alternative is to take a SE course on leaving Suva and pass E of Kandavu and all dangers. Boats leaving from ports on the west coast of Viti Levu should use the Navula Passage.

Having reached the open sea, the course passes well to the west of the Minerva Reefs, where yachts on passage to or from New Zealand often stop as there is an anchorage that offers some protection even in strong winds, although it is advisable to stop only in settled weather. There is an anchorage inside North Minerva Reef, which can be reached through a pass on its NW side. The coordinates of the pass are reported as 23°37.0’S, 178°57.0’W. The suggested anchorage at 23°39.4’S, 178°54.0’W provides adequate protection in SE winds, especially at low tide when the reef is exposed. The lagoon of South Minerva Reef (23°56.0’S, 179°07.0’W) is also accessible, but more difficult to navigate due to many scattered coral heads. It is possible to anchor off the NW entrance into the lagoon.

As the greatest risk on this passage is encountering a SW gale when approaching New Zealand, a suggested tactic is to make some westing soon after leaving Fiji, in which case a detour via the Minerva Reefs makes even less sense. Ideally the meridian of New Zealand’s Cape North should be intersected about 500 miles north of that cape and this meridian followed south before altering course for the port of destination. This course of action is particularly recommended if the passage is made between June and September, when the probability of encountering a SW gale is much higher than later in the year. How far west the route should go will depend on expected weather conditions.

Rather far to the east of the direct route to merit a detour are the Kermadec Islands, which belong to New Zealand and are a protected area where only temporary stops are allowed at Raoul Island.

Three possible New Zealand landfalls have been listed. Those bound for the Bay of Islands should set a course for Cape Brett and continue to Opua to complete entry formalities. All boats are required to contact customs before they make landfall. On arrival boats must come to the official quarantine dock to complete formalities.

Boats bound for Whangarei, further down North Island’s east coast, should set a direct course to make landfall off Bream Head, in the approaches to Whangarei. From there, a long but well-buoyed river channel leads to the port of Whangarei.

Those who are bound for Auckland should sail a course that passes east of Great Barrier Island and makes landfall north of Cuvier Island. From there, the Colville Channel is followed into the Gulf of Hauraki. There are several marinas in the Auckland area, and it is advisable to make berthing arrangements in advance so as to be able to proceed directly to the marina on arrival.

Yachts arriving from overseas must contact the authorities 48 hours prior to their ETA, to arrange clearance on arrival. This can be done via email to yachts@customs. govt.nz.

• PS56 Fiji to Tuvalu

BEST TIME: | June to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Landfalls of Paradise. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS56A |  |  |  |  |
Levuka 17°41.0’S, 178°50.2’E Savusavu 16°46.6’S, 179°20.0’E | Ovalau E 17°40.8’S, 178°51.0’E Savusavu W 16°46.6’S, 179°19.0’E | Nairai N 17°40.5’S, 179°24.0’E Savusavu SW 16°49.6’S, 179°15.5’E Vanua Levu SW 16°50.5’S, 179°15.0’E |  |  |
|  | Taveuni SW |  |  |
` |  | 16°50.0’S, 179°53.5’E Taveuni N 16°26.5’S, 179°48.0’W Fiji N 15°48.0’S, 179°44.0’W Niulakita E 10°48.0’S, 179°29.5’E |  |  |
|  | [Nukulaelae W] 9°24.0’S, 179°43.0’E | Funafuti S 8°39.0’S, 179°10.0’E | Fongafale 8°31.4’S, 179°11.6’E | 602/553
Route PS56B |  |  |  |  |
Lautoka X | Lautoka W | Fiji NW |  |  |
16°36.5’S, 177°26.3’E | 16°36.5’S, 177°26.2’E | 16°28.0’S, 177°43.0’E |  |  |
|  | [Nukulaelae W] | Funafuti S | Fongafale | 521

During the winter months, when the SE winds are at their most consistent, this can be a fast and pleasant passage. The islands of Tuvalu are in the cyclone area and, although relatively rare, northbound passages during the cyclone season should be avoided. Because Tuvalu lies close to the hurricane breeding ground south of the equator, tropical storm warnings are less reliable than in other parts of the world.

There are two alternatives for this passage, which can start from Eastern or Western Fiji. Route PS56A offers two ports where formalities can be completed on departure. All boats departing Fiji must inform the authorities of their intention 48 hour in advance by emailing yachtsreport@ frcs.org.fj. The route from Levuka meets the route from Savusavu at the start of the Somosomo Strait, from where the joint route continues north to leave Fiji at Cape Undu. Niulakita, the southernmost of Tuvalu’s islands, will be passed close to the west, as will Nukulaelae. As stops at any of the Tuvalu Islands may only be made after having cleared in at Fongafale, visits to these islands are not possible.

The official port of entry for Tuvalu is Fongafale, the main settlement on Funafuti, and the capital of this small nation. There are several passes into Funafuti Lagoon, but none of them should be attempted at night or when the visibility is not good. On this route, landfall will be made south of Funafuti Lagoon, which is entered through the South East Pass. Arriving boats should proceed directly to Fongafale and anchor close to the commercial dock. Formalities may only be completed on workdays, so arrivals should be timed between Monday and Friday.

Boats leaving Lautoka on route PS56B will need to negotiate their way through the intricate but well-buoyed channel that leads to Bligh Water. The Round Island Passage, at its NW extremity, leads to the open ocean. From there, a direct course may be set for Funafuti, passing well to the west of Niulakita and the shallows surrounding it.

This route from Fiji to Tuvalu is often sailed by boats bound for Micronesia and the North Pacific, and those who wish to stop en route should obtain permission from the authorities in Fongafale to call at Nanumea. This island has a pass into the lagoon on its west side, and visiting yachts are always welcome. From there, the route continues to Kiribati. Refer to PT26 for details of that route.

• PS57 Wallis to Fiji

BEST TIME: | June to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Pacific Crossing Guide, South Pacific Anchorages. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Mata Utu X 13°17.2’S, 176°10.0’W | Honikulu 13°23.5’S, 176°13.0’W | Wallis S 13°25.0’S, 176°14.0’W |  |  |
|  | [Futuna N] 14°11.6’S, 178°12.0’W [Alofi S] 14°23.0’S, 178°02.0’W Fiji NE 15°53.0’S, 179°16.8’W Taveuni N 16°26.5’S, 179°48.0’W |  | Leava 14°17.9’S, 178°09.8’W Alofi 14°19.4’S, 178°03.9’W | 139
|  | Taveuni SW |  |  | 133
|  | 16°50.0’S, 179°53.5’E Vanua Levu SW 16°50.5’S, 179°15.0’E |  |  |
|  | Savusavu SW | Savusavu W | Savusavu | 352
|  | 16°49.6’S, 179°15.5’E | 16°46.6’S, 179°19.0’E | 16°46.6’S, 179°20.0’E |
|  | Nairai N | Ovalau E | Levuka | 398
|  | 17°40.5’S, 179°24.0’E | 17°40.8’S, 178°51.0’W | 17°41.0’S, 178°50.2’W |

Favourable winds are most likely on this route during the SE trade wind season. The passage can be broken at Futuna, the sister territory of Wallis, which is also a French overseas territory. There is an anchorage at Singave Bay on the west coast of Futuna, or at Alofi, the main settlement on the island of the same name. Continuing towards Fiji, one can gain access to the islands through the Somosomo Strait. Landfall is made off the Nggelelevu Atoll in the Ringgold Islands, from where the route winds its way SW through the Vatauia Channel, west of Nggelelevu, towards the Somosomo Strait.

Having entered the Koro Sea, there is a choice of two official ports of entry. The closer is Savusavu, on the south coast of Vanua Levu Island. See PS41 for details of the approach and facilities. Close to the route to the capital Suva is Levuka on Ovalau Island. Having made landfall north of Nairai Island, the route passes close to the south of the light marking the Wakaya Reef and continues to the pass on the east side of Ovalau Island leading to Levuka. Arriving boats should make their way to the commercial wharf and contact the authorities on channel 16. A cruising permit must be obtained from the appropriate authority after the clearing-in formalities have been completed. See PS41 for details on entry formalities for Fiji.

• PS58 Wallis to Tuvalu

BEST TIME: | June to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Landfalls of Paradise. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Mata Utu X | Honikulu | Wallis S |  |  |
13°17.2’S, 176°10.0’W | 13°23.5’S, 176°13.0’W | 13°25.0’S, 176°14.0’W |  |  |
|  | [Nukulaelae W] 9°24.0’S, 179°43.0’E | Funafuti S 8°39.0’S, 179°10.0’E | Fongafale 8°31.4’S, 179°11.6’E | 388

During the SE trade wind season the winds along this route are mostly favourable. Both Wallis and Tuvalu are in the cyclone area and, although relatively rare, at least one has devastated Tuvalu in October. Because Tuvalu lies close to the hurricane breeding ground south of the equator, tropical storm warnings are less reliable than in other parts of the world.

The direct course for Funafuti passes over several banks, but these present no danger as there is sufficient depth over them. They should only be avoided during strong winds when seas break, but in fair weather it is worth sailing over them as fishing is excellent. On the direct route to Funafuti, the first island to be passed will be Nukulaelae. There is no pass into its lagoon, but in settled weather it is possible to anchor outside the reef off the main settlement on the west side of the atoll. However, as one is supposed to clear in first at Funafuti before visiting any other islands, stopping at Nukulaelae may only be possible on the return passage.

The official port of entry for Tuvalu is Fongafale, the main settlement on Funafuti, and the capital of this small nation. There are several passes into Funafuti Lagoon, but none of them should be attempted at night or when the visibility is not good. On this route, landfall will be made south of Funafuti Lagoon, which is entered through the South East Pass. Arriving boats should proceed directly to Fongafale and anchor close to the commercial dock. Formalities may only be completed on workdays, so arrivals should be timed between Monday and Friday.

• PS59 Southbound from Tuvalu

BEST TIME: | October, May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Landfalls of Paradise, Cruising Guide to the Vava’u Island Group. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS59A |  |  |  |  |
Fongafale 8°31.4’S, 179°11.6’E | Funafuti S 8°39.0’S, 179°10.0’E | [Nukulaelae W] 9°24.0’S, 179°43.0’E Niulakita E 10°48.0’S, 179°29.5’E Fiji N 15°48.0’S, 179°44.0’W Taveuni N 16°26.5’S, 179°48.0’W |  | Nukulaelae 9°22.5’S, 179 °49.0’E | 69
|  | Taveuni SW |  |  |
|  | 16°50.0’S, 179°53.5’E Vanua Levu SW 16°50.5’S, 179°15.0’E |  |  |
|  | Savusavu SW 16°49.6’S, 179°15.5’E | Savusavu W 16°46.6’S, 179°19.0’E | Savusavu 16°46.6’S, 179°20.0’E | 545
|  | Nairai N 17°40.5’S, 179°24.0’E | Ovalau E 17°40.8’S, 178°51.0’W | Levuka 17°41.0’S, 178°50.2’W | 621
|  | Fiji NW 16°28.0’S, 177°43.0’E | Lautoka W 16°36.5’S, 177°26.2’E | Lautoka X 16°36.5’S, 177°26.3’E | 512
Route PS59B |  |  |  |  |
Fongafale | Funafuti S | [Nukulaelae W] |  | Nukulaelae |
|  | Wallis S 13°25.0’S, 176°14.0’W | Honikulu 13°23.5’S, 176°13.0’W | Mata Utu X 13°17.2’S, 176°10.0’W | 388
|  | [Asau N 13°28.5’S, 172°39.3’W Asau NE] 13°25.3’S, 172°36.9’W Sava’i N 13°22.5’S, 172°17.0’W |  | Asau 13°30.0’S, 172°38.8’W | 490
|  | Upolu N 13°41.6’S, 171°52.6’W | Apia N 13°46.0’S, 171°44.6’W | Apia 13 °49.0’S, 171°45.5’W | 545

Southbound passages from Tuvalu are difficult to accomplish during the SE trade wind season from April to October, when the probability of encountering strong winds is very high. Passages to Wallis and Samoa are the most difficult and should therefore be planned for the change of seasons. Passages to Fiji are relatively easier as it lies due south of Tuvalu and any boat that goes reasonably well to windward should be able to accomplish it. If any of these passages are made at the change of seasons there is a reasonable chance of having spells of more favourable winds, or even westerly winds, which become more frequent and are accompanied by squalls. If this passage is made at the height of the winter trades, from June to September, the winds at Funafuti are sometimes NE. If this is the case, as much easting as possible should be made on leaving Funafuti because the winds are bound to become more SE further south. Although the islands of Tuvalu are rarely visited by tropical storms, passages during the cyclone season should be avoided. As Tuvalu lies close to the breeding ground of cyclones, it is very unlikely that adequate warning will be given if a storm heads in that direction.

Having left Funafuti Lagoon through one of its passes, the direct route to Fiji passes very close to Nukulaelae, which has no pass into its lagoon, so yachts wishing to stop there must anchor in the lee of the reef. In settled weather it is possible to use the anchorage off the main settlement on the west side of the atoll.

The southbound route also passes close to the east of Niulakita, the smallest and southernmost of Tuvalu’s islands. The route passes close to the east of the island of Thikombia before making landfall north of Cape Undu, the NE extremity of Vanua Levu Island. From there, the Koro Sea is reached through the Somosomo Strait. Entry formalities can be completed at Savusavu, on the south coast of Vanua Levu, or at Levuka, on Ovalau.

An alternative route is to leave the entire Fijian Archipelago to port and arrive in Suva from the NW. Both alternatives have advantages and disadvantages, and the final choice will probably depend on the direction of the wind, as with a strong SE wind it may be too difficult to lay Cape Undu. In this case, landfall should be made north of the Round Island Passage to enter Bligh Water west of Vanua Levu. The route continues south by staying east of the reefs and islands of the Yasawa group so as to approach Lautoka, on Viti Levu’s west coast, from the north. On arrival, boats are advised to anchor in the vicinity of Queen’s Wharf, in the commercial area of the harbour, and contact the authorities on channel 16 for berthing and clearance instructions. See PS41 for details on entry formalities for Fiji.

For boats on route PS59B, if a stop in Nukulaelae is not intended, the initial course should pass to the east of that island. Making some easting early in the passage is essential. The course is then altered to make landfall SW of Wallis. This route passes over a number of shallow banks before closing with Wallis, which is entered through the Honikulu Pass, on the south side of the lagoon. There is a strong current at ebb tide, so it is better to negotiate the pass at flood tide or at slack water, especially when the sea is rough. At ebb tide the outflowing current can set at 6 knots and there are dangerous overfalls outside the pass. The passes and reefs inside the lagoon are well marked. Formalities are completed at Mata Utu, the main settlement on Uvea.

Having approached Samoa from the NW, landfall will be made on the north coast of Savai’i. Although its main port Asau is not an official port of entry, emergency stops are usually tolerated if permission is asked by radio before arrival. Otherwise the passage continues to the capital Apia, whose port captain should be contacted on channel 16 before territorial waters are entered. Samoa now requires 48 hours advance notification of arrival by emailing portmaster@spasamoa.ws.

PS60 • Routes from New Zealand

• | PS61 | New Zealand to New South Wales | 430
• | PS62 | New Zealand to Queensland | 432
• | PS63 | New Zealand to New Caledonia | 433
• | PS64 | New Zealand to Fiji | 434
• | PS65 | New Zealand to Tonga | 435
• | PS66 | New Zealand to Cook Islands | 437
• | PS67 | New Zealand to Tahiti | 438
• | PS68 | New Zealand to Southern Chile | 439

Several routes start from New Zealand, fanning out in all directions like the fingers of an outstretched hand. Although the number of local boats that go cruising in foreign waters is impressively high for a small nation, many of the boats that set sail from New Zealand fly the flags of distant nations. In recent years New Zealand has become a major cruising destination and few yachts sail through the South Pacific without making a detour there. The majority come to New Zealand to spend the cyclone season in the safety of North Island’s protected harbours.

This stay in New Zealand is often a time of decision-making about the future direction of a voyage, as the many routes leaving from New Zealand offer a wide choice. For those with time on their hands, a return to cruising in the tropics is a possibility, either by sailing back to Tahiti or by making one of the easier passages to Tonga or Fiji. Those for whom time is a commodity in short supply will probably mull over the most pleasant way of getting back home. For voyagers from Europe or the east coast of North America the choice is quite simple, as the logical way is to carry on around the world and reach the Atlantic either via the Cape of Good Hope or the Red Sea and Mediterranean. The other possibility is to make the return voyage using the prevailing westerly winds of higher latitudes and reach the Atlantic via Cape Horn, an alternative shunned by most blue-water sailors, few of whom are concerned about joining the elite rank of Cape Horners.

The tropical cyclone season in the southern hemisphere starts in November. Statistically the risk of a cyclone doubles in November and doubles again in December. For this reason most cruising sailors migrate from the tropics to the relative tranquillity of Australia or New Zealand in October.

PS60 Routes from New Zealand

One major route from New Zealand leads across the Coral Sea towards the Torres Strait and beyond. Depending on the time available, the choice is between a route via New Caledonia or one via Australia and the Great Barrier Reef. The timing for the start of this passage is essential, not only for the first part of the voyage but also for later on. For those who wish to cruise en route but do not wish to be caught by the cyclone season in the South Indian Ocean (November to May), an early-April departure from New Zealand is imperative. The more southerly route across the Tasman Sea to ports in New South Wales (PS61) is generally taken by those who wish to cruise along the east coast of Australia and do not mind the time it takes.

The most difficult decision is faced by those hailing from the west coast of North America, both American and Canadian, who do not fancy the prospect of a circumnavigation of the world, with a hard leg from Panama to their home port at the very end of it. Unfortunately there is no easy solution and the prospect of a return voyage of several thousand miles across the Pacific, most of it to windward, is a matter of great concern. There are several routes that can be taken from New Zealand to the west coast of America and probably the simplest is the route via Tahiti and Hawaii. Those who are in a great hurry can complete this voyage in about four months, provided the boat goes reasonably well to windward. The course resembles a gigantic inverted letter ‘Z’, with the horizontal bars representing the two legs in the westerlies of higher latitudes and the diagonal bar the slant across the SE and NE trade wind systems.

Although the route from New Zealand to Hawaii via Tahiti is the logical one, there are a number of other routes using different intermediate points. All of them would probably take more time than the Tahiti route, although they do offer the chance to visit less frequented places in the Pacific. The first of these alternative routes leads from New Zealand to Rarotonga or Aitutaki in the Southern Cook Islands. It then passes through the Line Islands after having touched some of the Northern Cooks. This route to Hawaii has the advantage of less windward work after leaving New Zealand, a good enough reason perhaps to give Tahiti a miss. Unfortunately, as this route approaches Hawaii from the south the last leg will be against the prevailing NE winds. It must also be remembered that unlike Tahiti, there are few repair or servicing facilities in the Cook Islands, which might make them less attractive as an intermediate port on such a long passage.

All other alternative routes lie further to the west and, although they might make the first leg from New Zealand to the tropics less tiresome, it must be remembered that the further west one moves, the more contrary will be the NE trade winds on the leg to Hawaii. Yet another alternative to the Tahiti route is the one that leads from New Zealand to Tonga, Samoa, the Phoenix Islands and on to the Line Islands and Hawaii. Taking an even more westerly track via Fiji, Tuvalu, Kiribati and possibly the Marshalls is not recommended as it guarantees a prolonged and tough windward leg north of the equator.

Regardless of their destination, most cruising boats leave New Zealand at the end of summer, when the cyclone season has come to an end in the tropical South Pacific. This is also the time when, with winter approaching, the best sailing season is coming to an end in New Zealand itself. By late April or May it is therefore time to head north. Usually it is possible to obtain a long-term forecast, which will ensure favourable weather for most of the forthcoming passage. There is always the risk of bad weather and one should leave New Zealand well prepared to be able to deal with any contingency. Memories of the June 1994 storm that caught several boats on passage from New Zealand to the tropics are still fresh. The violent storm was caused by a tropical depression that deepened rapidly when it moved out of the tropics and entered an area of cold air. Sixteen yachts got into trouble, of which seven were lost including three lives. Such storms are most likely to form at the start of the cruising season (May to June) and there could be at least one such storm every year. Because of the rapidity with which they form, they are often impossible to predict. The situation was repeated in early June 2005 when a number of boats en route to Fiji were hit by strong winds in the so-called squash zone. Several boats were damaged, three boats were abandoned and two boats from among a number that had anchored at North Minerva Reef were lost. Based on the weather patterns of the last 20 years, the only conclusion that can be drawn is that every year is different, and that while in one year it is safe to leave for the tropics as early as April, in other years the end of May or even early June may be safer. However, Cyclone Gina, which formed in the Coral Sea in early June 2003 and later hit Vanuatu, shows that the safe sailing season is definitely getting shorter.

Choosing the time of departure from New Zealand is therefore not an easy decision. The best tactic is to get ready to leave when it is deemed to be safe, but if the weather charts show a depression or front threatening to cross one’s route, the wise thing to do is wait and let it pass. The best weather for a passage to Fiji or Tonga occurs when a cold front crosses Northland. However, there should not be any other cold fronts following it from SW. Ideally there should be a high-pressure region advancing into the Tasman Sea after the cold front, and this high needs to be of medium intensity and moving slowly. In such a situation, SW winds can be expected to start with, to be followed by S winds just before the tropics are reached. Once in the tropics, SE winds should blow for the rest of the passage. What needs to be avoided is a high of greater intensity over the Tasman Sea (1030 hPa or more), as there is a risk of a squash zone being generated that will result in enhanced trade winds on its northern side. If the high moves east too rapidly, there is a real possibility of it being replaced in the tropics by a low developing on the western side of the departing high.

• PS61 New Zealand to New South Wales

BEST TIME: | April to May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Cruising the New South Wales Coast. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS61A |  |  |  |  |
Opua X 35°18.7’S, 174°07.5’E | Bay N 35°06.0’S, 174°12.6’E | North Cape 34°18.5’S, 173°03.0’E |  |  |
|  | Three Kings N 33°59.0’S, 172°09.0’E | Sydney E 33°51.0’S, 151°21.5’E | Sydney 33 °49.5’S, 151°17.0’E | 1174
Route PS61B |  |  |  |
Opua X | Bay N | North Cape Three Kings N |  |
|  | [Lord Howe S 31°36.5’S, 159°04.0’E Lord Howe NW] 31°30.0’S, 159°01.0’E |  | Lord Howe 31°32.0’S, 159°03.3’E | 816
|  | Coffs Harbour E 30°18.5’S, 153°10.0’E |  | Coffs Harbour 30°18.5’S, 153°09.0’E | 1123
Route PS61C |  |  |  |
Wellington X 41°17.0’S, 174°47.0’E | Wellington SE 41°23.0’S, 174°44.0’E | Cook S 41°16.0’S, 174°31.0’E Cook N 40°56.0’S, 174°34.0’E |  |
|  | Stephens |  |
|  | 40°30.0’S, 174°15.0’E |  |
|  | Sydney E Coffs Harbour E |  | Sydney Coffs Harbour | 1227 1257

Most people prefer to make this passage either before or after the cyclone season, although the Tasman Sea is only marginally affected by these storms, which originate in the tropics. Conditions encountered across the Tasman Sea can be extremely varied, from flat calms to violent SW gales. The general consensus is that May offers the best chance of decent weather, although prolonged periods of calms can be expected during this month. Several days of calm or light variable winds often occur after a SW gale has passed.

Good sailing conditions occur when a stationary high over the southern part of the Tasman Sea generates easterly winds further north. Such conditions can last up to a week and are sometimes followed by another high creating similar weather conditions. Unfortunately these are most common during the summer, which is also the cyclone season in the South West Pacific. Only a few of these tropical storms find their way into the Tasman Sea, and usually by the time they get there most of their strength is spent. Provided a favourable long-term forecast has been obtained, it is possible to leave New Zealand during the cyclone season, as cyclones generated further north would take several days to reach this route. During the winter months both lows and highs move to the north, reducing the chances of E winds in the Tasman Sea. Lows are usually accompanied by strong SW winds and it is very rare that a winter passage can be made without encountering at least one gale.

When sailing around the top of North Island, Cape North and Cape Reinga should be approached with caution, not only because of the confused currents that set around the two capes, but also because of the dangerous area in the vicinity of the Three Kings, a group of rocky islets to the NW of Cape Reinga. Having reached North Cape, the course should be altered to pass N of the above dangers. This is a good departure point for westbound boats, from where a direct course can be set across the Tasman Sea for Sydney.

Although the majority of boats setting off across the Tasman take the route around North Cape, for those leaving from further south it might be more advantageous to reach the Tasman Sea via the Cook Strait. Having left Wellington, from the southern entrance into the Cook Strait, an initial course is set to pass well to the N of Stephens Island to reach the open ocean. A direct course can be set from there to Port Jackson and Sydney.

Notice of arrival in Australia must be given at least 96 hours prior to ETA. Details of the boat, crew, last port, if there are animals or firearms on board, and ETA should be done by phone +61 2 6246 1325 or emailed to yachtreport@homeaffairs.gov.au. Failure to do this, as well as stopping anywhere before clearing in, is a serious offence.

Yachts approaching Sydney should contact Sydney Maritime Radio on channel 16, who will direct them to the customs buoy in Watsons Bay and advise the appropriate authorities. On arrival off Coffs Harbour, the captain should contact customs and quarantine on channel 16.

A convenient stop in the Tasman Sea is Lord Howe Island. As Lord Howe is no longer a customs port of entry, those who wish to call there must first obtain permission to make a brief stop. Prior to departure, the Lord Howe Island Board should be contacted to obtain that permission. The necessary documents can be downloaded from the official site. On arrival, contact the port operational manager on channel 12 and ask permission to pick up a mooring buoy in the lagoon as anchoring is no longer permitted.

• PS62 New Zealand to Queensland

BEST TIME: | May to June |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Cruising the Coral Coast. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS62A |  |  |  |  |
Opua X 35°18.7’S, 174°07.5’E | Bay N 35°06.0’S, 174°12.6’E | North Cape 34°18.5’S, 173°03.0’E |  |  |
|  | Three Kings N |  |  |
|  | 33°59.0’S, 172°09.0’E [Middleton] 29°26.7’S, 159°04.8’E Moreton N 26°56.3’S, 153°30.0’E |  |  |
|  | North East Channel N 27°00.0’S, 153°22.0’E Curtis Channel E 24°17.5’S, 153°07.0’E | Brisbane River 27°21.0’S, 153°11.0’E | Brisbane X 27°26.5’S, 153°06.3’E | 1226
|  | Bundaberg E 24°45.5’S, 152°30.0’E | Bundaberg River 24°45.2’S, 152°24.2’E | Bundaberg X 24°46.0’S, 152°22.8’E | 1339
Route PS62B Opua X | Bay N | North Cape Three Kings N |  |  |
|  | [Norfolk SE 29°05.0’S, 168°00.0’E Norfolk SW] 29°06.0’S, 168°00.0’E Hixson S 22°27.5’S, 167°54.0’E |  | Kingston 29°03.6’S, 167°57.0’E | 502
|  | Mackay E 21°07.0’S, 149°17.0’E | Mackay NE 21°06.2’S, 149°14.3’E | Mackay X 21°06.7’S, 149 °13.5’E | 1907

As all destinations on this route lie within the area affected by tropical cyclones, an early departure during the summer months is not recommended. The best time to leave New Zealand is either in late April or early May before the frequency of winter gales increases in the Tasman Sea. However, not all boats that have made this passage in later months have encountered totally unfavourable conditions. Although this route lies further north than the routes to ports in New South Wales, weather conditions up to latitude 30ºS and even beyond are influenced by the high-and low-pressure systems lying over the Tasman Sea. With a favourable weather forecast from New Zealand it is therefore possible to make a good start on this route, which offers several options. Passages to Brisbane can be sailed nonstop, whereas those bound for ports further north will pass close enough to Norfolk Island to consider stopping there. Visiting yachts are always welcome and the locals will advise on the best anchorage depending on the wind direction. The closest anchorage to the main settlement Kingston is in Sydney Bay. Formalities are usually simple. Good provisioning with local produce is available.

Another possible stop is at one of two reefs, as both Elizabeth Reef (29º56.0’S, 159º02.0’E) and Middleton Reef (29º26.7’S, 159º04.8’E) lie virtually on the rhumb line from North Cape to Brisbane. Both sets of coordinates are approximate and should not be relied on for accuracy. Both reefs have an anchorage; the one in the lee of Elizabeth Reef is on its NE side, whereas Middleton has a sheltered anchorage on the NW side called the Sound. In unsettled weather, the temptation to stop should be resisted and the reefs given a wide berth as they have claimed many ships in the past. Both reefs are protected nature reserves.

Whichever route is sailed across the Tasman Sea, it should not reach the Australian coast too far south of the desired port because of the strong current setting south along the coast. The prevailing winds south of Sandy Cape, on Fraser Island, are westerly from May to September. From October to April the winds are mostly NE. The area north of Sandy Cape is under the influence of the SE trade winds, and during the winter months, from May to October, the winds are either SE or E.

From the Three Kings, the direct route to Brisbane passes east and north of Middleton and Elizabeth Reefs. Landfall is made to the north of Moreton Island so as to pass Flinders Reef at a safe distance. From there, the course turns south and crosses Moreton Bay through the Freeman and Main Channels to reach the mouth of the Brisbane River. The shorter approach via the South or Rous Channel, south of Moreton Island, should only be used in settled weather and with good visibility as the area is encumbered with reefs and shallow banks. In strong easterly winds the swell breaks across the entrance.

The commercial port of Brisbane is close to the mouth of the Brisbane River, but the town itself is about 17 miles up the river. On arrival, yachts must proceed upriver to the clearance station at Rivergate Marina and go directly to the customs and quarantine berth. Notice of arrival must be given at least 96 hours prior to ETA. Details of the boat, crew, last port, if there are animals or firearms on board, and ETA should be done by phone +61 2 6246 1325 or emailed to yachtreport@homeaffairs. gov.au. There are severe penalties for not doing this and also for stopping anywhere before having cleared in. With the exception of New Zealand citizens, all foreign visitors must arrive with a valid Australian visa.

Boats bound for Bundaberg should make landfall north of Fraser Island at the entrance into the Curtis Channel. This leads across Hervey Bay to the river entrance. Boats must proceed for clearance to Bundaberg Port Marina, about one mile upriver, where there are allocated berths for clearance.

The route for direct passages to Mackay passes halfway between Norfolk Island and Elizabeth and Middleton Reefs. The suggested landfall point is just south of Hixson Cay, which marks the southern extreme of an expansive area of reefs and cays. An intricate channel needs to be followed to Mackay, but as this is also used by commercial shipping, it is clearly marked. Clearance formalities are completed at Mackay Marina, which is located south of the commercial harbour.

• PS63 New Zealand to New Caledonia

BEST TIME: | May to June |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to New Caledonia, South Pacific Anchorages. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Opua X 35°18.7’S, 174°07.5’E | Bay N 35°06.0’S, 174°12.6’E | North Cape 34°18.5’S, 173°03.0’E Three Kings N 33°59.0’S, 172°09.0’E |  |  |
|  | [Norfolk SE 29°05.0’S, 168°00.0’E Norfolk SW] 29°06.0’S, 168°00.0’ENew Cal S 23°10.0’S, 166°56.0’E |  | Kingston 29°03.6’S, 167°57.0’E | 502
|  | Boulari SW 22°34.3’S, 166°20.7’E | Boulari Pass 22°30.3’S, 166°26.1’E | Noumea X 22°17.3’S, 166°26.2’E | 909
|  | Havannah E 22°18.0’S, 167°05.0’E |  | Noumea X | 923

The end of summer is the best time to make this passage, when favourable sailing conditions can be expected. A departure in late April or early May reduces the chance of encountering winter gales in the first half of the passage. The incidence of gales after June is higher and the weather colder, two factors that dissuade most people from making this passage too late in the season. For some boats the passage to New Caledonia is the first leg of a longer voyage to the Torres Strait and beyond, which makes an early start from New Zealand essential if the intention is to cross the South Indian Ocean during the best season (June to October).

Having passed Cape North and the Three Kings, a direct course can be set for New Caledonia. The direct route passes east of Norfolk Island and a stop there does not entail too long a detour, but the anchorage off Kingston provides limited shelter and should be left in impending bad weather. However, local people will advise on alternative anchorages depending on the wind direction.

The large island of New Caledonia is encumbered with reefs for a long distance offshore and the recommended landfall point has been set well clear of the reefs’ SW extremity. From that point, the route runs parallel to the reef line to the Boulari Pass, from where a marked channel leads to Noumea. Approaches into Noumea are difficult at night and should not be attempted. If Noumea cannot be reached in daylight it is recommended to anchor for the night and enter the port the following morning. Arriving boats should contact Port Moselle on channel 67 to arrange a berth at the visitors’ dock. The marina will contact customs and immigration for clearance. There are four marinas in the Noumea area, but Port Moselle is the most convenient. Yachting facilities are very good thanks to a large local sailing community.

If strong westerly winds are encountered below latitude 25ºS, and too much ground is lost to the east, the alternative is to make landfall south of New Caledonia and reach Noumea via the Havannah Pass. This pass should be negotiated on a flood tide. Due to the prevailing SE winds, the tide sets very strongly through the pass, creating large waves when the ebb tide runs against a strong wind.

• PS64 New Zealand to Fiji

BEST TIME: | May to June |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P9 Voyages from New Zealand |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Pacific Crossing Guide, South Pacific Anchorages. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS64A |  |  |  |  |
Opua X 35°18.7’S, 174°07.5’E Whangarei X 35°48.0’S, 174°26.0’E | Bay N 35°06.0’S, 174°12.6’E Whangarei SE 35°54.0’S, 174°33.8’E | Knights E 35°27.0’S, 174°58.5’E [South Minerva] 23°55.0’S, 179°08.4’W [North Minerva] 23°37.0’S, 178°57.0’W |  |  |
|  | Kandavu E 18°57.0’S, 178°46.5’E Kandavu SW 19°05.0’S, 177°48.0’E | Suva S 18°12.0’S, 178°23.2’E | Suva 18°08.0’S, 178°24.0’E | 1066/1106
|  | Kandavu N 18°30.0’S, 178°18.0’E | Suva S | Suva | 1061/1102
Route PS64B |  |  |  |  |
Opua X | Bay N | Navula W 17°56.3’S, 177°09.3’E Navula E 17°55.5’S, 177°13.3’E Tavarua E 17°50.4’S, 177°14.2’E |  |  |
|  | Denarau SW 17°46.5’S, 177°18.5’E | Denarau W 17°46.2’S, 177°21.3’E | Denarau 17°46.3’S, 177°23.2’E | 1074
|  | Lautoka SW 17°38.7’S, 177°21.2’E | Lautoka W 17°36.5’S, 177°26.2’E | Lautoka X 17°36.5’S, 177°26.3’E | 1083

As described in the introduction to this section, the timing of this passage needs to be chosen carefully as weather conditions at the change of seasons, when most passages along this route are sailed, can be very variable. Most boats make this passage in May, when the cyclone season in the tropics has drawn to a close, as has the summer season in New Zealand. For those who have spent this season in New Zealand, such a timing is perfect as it offers the prospect of at least six months of safe cruising in the tropics. A later departure has the disadvantage of colder weather and a higher probability of SW gales. Regardless of the time of departure, weather conditions that are likely to be encountered en route should be carefully monitored to avoid situations such as those described in the introduction to this section. Should strong westerly winds be encountered in the early part of the passage, it does not matter if one is pushed to the east of the rhumb line as the loss can be made up later with the help of the SE trades, which should be encountered north of latitude 25ºS. If sailing to the east of the rhumb line, the route should avoid passing too close to the two Minerva Reefs, which have claimed many boats in the past. Those who wish to stop there may do so in settled weather as there is an anchorage inside North Minerva Reef, which can be reached through a pass on its NW side; the coordinates are reported as 23°37’S, 178°57’W. The suggested anchorage at 23°39.40’S, 178°54’W provides protection in SE winds, especially at low tide when the reef is exposed. The lagoon of South Minerva Reef is also accessible, but more difficult to navigate due to many scattered coral heads. It is possible to anchor off the NW entrance into the lagoon.

There is a choice of arrival destinations and these may be dictated by later cruising plans. Boats bound for Suva on route PS64A should approach the port from the south, passing to the east of Kandavu Island and giving Astrolabe Reef a wide berth. Alternatively, Suva may be reached more easily by sailing in the lee of Kandavu, in which case landfall is made off Cape Washington.

The Daveta Levu Passage leads into Suva Harbour, whose approaches are well buoyed and lit, and there are clear range markers making it easy to enter this harbour even at night. Port control should be contacted on channel 16, and arriving boats are usually directed to the quarantine anchorage near the Royal Suva Yacht Club. The club will arrange to bring the officials to the boat for clearance formalities. Going ashore anywhere in Fiji before clearing in first at one of the ports of entry is strictly prohibited. A cruising permit must be obtained from the appropriate authority after the clearing-in formalities have been completed.

Those intending to sail to ports on the west coast of Viti Levu should make landfall west of Vatulele Island and continue to the entrance into the Navula Passage. A buoyed channel leads to Lautoka and also Denarau Marina. The official port of entry is Lautoka but Denarau Marina will arrange for the officials to come to complete formalities, although their transportation costs may have to be covered.

Yachts arriving from overseas must complete an advance notification form (C2-C) 48 hours before ETA. The form can be downloaded from the customs website https://www.frcs.org.fj and emailed, with a photo of the boat and a scan of the captain’s passport, to yachtsreport@frcs.org.fj.

• PS65 New Zealand to Tonga

BEST TIME: | May to June |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P9 Voyages from New Zealand |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to the Kingdom of Tonga, Pacific Crossing Guide, South Pacific Anchorages. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Opua X 35°18.7’S, 174°07.5’E | Bay N 35°06.0’S, 174°12.6’E | [Raoul S 29°18.7’S, 177°55.5’W Raoul SE 29°17.0’S, 177°53.5’W Raoul E] 29°16.0’S, 177°50.0’W Ata W 22°20.0’S, 176°15.0’W |  | Raoul 29°17.0’S, 177°55.0’W | 410
|  | Tongatapu SW 21°09.0’S, 175°26.5’W Ha’atufu W 21°04.0’S, 175°21.0’W |  |
|  | Egeria N 21°00.8’S, 175°18.0’W | Egeria S 21°02.8’S, 175°16.2’W | Nuku’alofa X 21°07.3’S, 175°10.5’W | 1043
|  | Tongatapu SE 21°24.0’S, 175°08.0’W |  |  |
|  | Eua Iki SW 21°09.0’S, 175°00.0’W | Piha Pass E 21°06.8’S, 175°03.4’W | Nuku’alofa X | 1060

Directions for passages to Tonga are similar to those to Fiji but with two exceptions: the SE winds will be met at a tighter angle, and the route passes close to the Kermadec Islands. The optimum conditions for departure are also similar, and the best time to leave New Zealand is between the end of April and the middle of May, when winter has not yet established itself in southern latitudes and the danger of encountering a cyclone either en route or on arrival is minimal. A later departure would probably run the risk of strong W or SW winds at the beginning and also colder weather. Regardless of the time of year when this passage is made, it will be a close-hauled affair most of the way. It is essential to leave New Zealand with a reasonable long-term weather forecast to avoid being overtaken by a front or encountering conditions such as those described in detail in the introduction to this section. In order to benefit from a better sailing angle once the SE trade winds are met around latitude 25ºS, it is advisable to make some easting while in lower latitudes and possibly pass east of the Kermadecs. Rather than go that far east, a course can be set to pass right by these islands, which belong to New Zealand and where brief stops are permitted at Raoul Island. In an emergency, there are several bays that offer reasonable protection, but because of the islands’ exposed nature and the rapidly changing weather, one should be prepared to put to sea at very short notice.

The direct route from New Zealand passes, in fact, west of the Kermadecs and quite close to the Minerva Reefs. It is possible to stop there in settled weather, but it is debatable whether this is a good idea when the aim is to get to Tonga as quickly as possible. If sailing conditions are really bad, breaking the passage may not be such a good idea, and you should just carry on. For those who intend to stop, there is an anchorage inside North Minerva Reef, which can be reached through a pass on its NW side. The coordinates of the pass are reported as 23°37.0’S, 178°57.0’W. The suggested anchorage at 23°39.4’S, 178°54.0’W provides adequate protection in SE winds, especially at low tide when the reef is exposed. The lagoon of South Minerva Reef (23°56.0’S, 179°07.0’W) is also accessible, but more difficult to navigate due to many scattered coral heads. It is possible to anchor off the NW entrance into the lagoon.

If a direct course is sailed for Tonga, the rhumb line from North Island to Tongatapu leads well to the west of the Kermadec Islands and also misses the two Minerva Reefs by a safe margin. Indeed, this is the course taken by those who have access to weather information, and also by those sailing at the recommended time when the strong easterly winds of winter are rarely fully established in the tropics. The direct course passes close to Ata Island, a high island lying some 90 miles SW of Tongatapu, the main island of the kingdom. There are several passes into Tongatapu’s lagoon, both from the east and the west. In strong SE winds it is better to gain the lee of Eua Island and enter the lagoon from the east through the Piha Passage. This is the most direct pass into the lagoon, but as it has no lights it can only be used in daylight. At all other times, the Egeria Channel, the main shipping channel leading into the lagoon from the west, is an easier option. Landfall will be made SW of the Egeria Channel, which gives access to Nuku’alofa from the west. The final miles are sailed just inside Duff Reef to the western entrance into the Egeria Channel.

Those who decide to use the Piha Pass should make landfall SE of Tongatapu and continue north through the channel separating the main island from Eua. Just west of Eua Iki island, the Piha Passage gives access to Nuku’alofa. A buoyed channel leads through the lagoon to the small boat harbour at Faua, located west of Queen Salote Wharf, close to Nuku’alofa. The entrance is 8.5 ft (2.6 m) at low tide and the basin has been dredged to a depth of 9 ft (3.0 m) inside.

Yachts arriving from overseas must submit an advance notice of arrival no less than 24 hours before their ETA in Tonga. The form should be emailed to info@customs.gov.to and can be downloaded from https://www.noonsite.com/place/tonga/formalities/.

• PS66 New Zealand to Cook Islands

BEST TIME: | May to June |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | South Pacific Anchorages, Polynesia. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Opua X 35°18.7’S, 174°07.5’E | Bay N 35°06.0’S, 174°12.6’E | [Raoul S 29°18.7’S, 177°55.5’W Raoul SE 29°17.0’S, 177°53.5’W Raoul E] 29°16.0’S, 177°50.0’W |  | Raoul 29°17.0’S, 177°55.0’W | 410
|  | Rarotonga NW 21°11.0’S, 159°51.0’W |  | Avatiu 21°11.8’S, 159°47.0’W | 1648

As in the case of the previous passages to the tropics, those that are bound for the Cook Islands have the same choice of an early start, with the advantage of warmer weather when leaving New Zealand, or a later start, when the probability of westerly winds is higher. If an early departure date is chosen this should not be before April as the cyclone season has not come to an end in the tropics and it is not wise to arrive in the Cooks before early May. Because on passages to the Cook Islands the SE winds will be met at an acute angle, it is essential to make some easting before those winds are met, somewhere around latitude 25ºS. Therefore, an attempt should be made to gain some easting soon after departure, ideally between latitudes 35ºS and 30ºS. Ideally latitude 30ºS should not be crossed before longitude 170ºW has been reached, after which, depending on the wind, a direct course can be set for the desired destination. The same directions also apply for the remaining winter months when the SE trade wind belt lies further north and better winds can be expected to make the required easting. The chances of winter gales would also be much higher, which makes a good argument in favour of making this passage before June.

The optimum conditions for the start are described in PS60, and if the tactic of gaining some easting in higher latitudes has borne fruit, the route should start swinging NE after meridian 165ºW has been crossed. At least 48 hours prior to ETA, all vessels are required to email an advance notice to Cook Islands Customs, giving name of the vessel, port of arrival and ETA, to customs.craft@cookislands.gov.ck. Landfall should be made NW of Rarotonga, from where the island’s north coast is followed to the main port of Avatiu. There is a small marina inside the commercial harbour, where entry formalities are completed. In principle, cruising boats are only allowed to visit islands that have an official port of entry and calling at any other islands cannot be done without prior permission from customs and immigration.

This route is an easier and more pleasant way of returning to the tropics than the route to Tahiti. However, on no account should this route be sailed as a first leg to Tahiti, as the subsequent beat from the Cooks to Tahiti has put off most of those who have tried to sail it directly. If the voyage has to continue from the Cooks to the Society Islands, the best way is to sail south from the Cooks into the area of prevailing westerlies and curve north through the Austral Islands, as outlined in PS67.

• PS67 New Zealand to Tahiti

BEST TIME: | May to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P6 Voyages from Australia and New Zealand |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Guide to Navigation in French Polynesia, Pacific Crossing Guide, South Pacific Anchorages, Polynesia. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Auckland X 36°51.0’S, 174°48.0’E | Matangi E 36°36.0’S, 174°57.3’E | Colville N 36°23.0’S, 175°23.0’E Cuvier N 36°22.5’S, 175°43.0’E |  |  |
|  | [Tubuai W] 23°22.5’S, 149°33.5’W Tahiti SE 17°54.0’S, 148°59.0’W Tahiti NE 17°28.5’S, 149°18.5’W |  | Mataura 23°21.0’S, 149 °30.3’W | 2017
|  | Tahiti N 17°28.0’S, 149°30.0’W | Papeete N 17°32.0’S, 149°35.2’W | Papeete 17°32.6’S, 149°34.8’W | 2294

The recommended tactic for this route is to stay south of, or close to, latitude 35ºS in order to take advantage of the westerly winds prevailing in higher latitudes, although this means rather cold weather, especially if New Zealand is left after April. Most people prefer to compromise and attempt to make their easting between latitudes 35ºS and 30ºS, where the weather is indeed warmer. This is an area of variable winds that lie between the trade winds and the prevailing westerlies, although weather conditions differ from year to year and in some winters consistent westerly winds have been encountered as far north as 32ºS. Similarly there are years when even keeping south of latitude 35ºS is no guarantee of consistent westerlies. This passage to Tahiti is usually a tough windward passage with a high proportion of SE winds.

The recommended tactic for those planning to sail this route is to attempt to make the required easting on the northernlimit of the Roaring Forties. The usual time when this passage is sailed is in late May or June. The most difficult decision is when to start turning north into the area of variable winds of the subtropical ridge. Another point to consider is that at that time of year the area of Tahiti may experience so-called divergent NE winds, which are found east of the South Pacific Convergence Zone. For this reason, it may be a good idea to widen the left turn and go as far as Rurutu or Tubuai in the Austral Islands before turning north. In a La Niña episode, the westerly winds may be further south than normal and it may be best to wait until later than June for more favourable conditions.

There is an alternative scenario that keeps closer to the great circle route, which would pass within 300 miles east of the Kermadec Islands. Those who decide to attempt this approach should wait for the forecast to show that a low may develop in the South Pacific Convergence Zone, which would move SE and S passing south of the Southern Cooks. According to a well-known New Zealand meteorologist, this usually happens once or twice a month. Those who are prepared to wait in New Zealand to catch this low will then be able to sail around it clockwise, benefiting from favourable winds possibly as far as Tahiti. In the words of that same meteorologist, those conditions could be used ‘as a slingshot and if the timing is right you should get to Tahiti along with those disrupted winds’.

From the reports of those who have sailed this route in recent years, everyone mentions encountering at least one gale on the way. Often such gales are from the east and the best solution is to heave to and wait for them to blow over. The general conclusion is that the temptation to head NE early in the passage should be resisted, and should not be done before meridian 155ºW is crossed. Meridian 152ºW should be crossed in latitude 30ºS, from where a course is shaped to pass close to the Austral Islands.

This passage can also be done at the end of winter, in October or November, when the winds are often light, making it a slow passage. The disadvantage of a summer passage is the risk of arriving in Tahiti in the midst of the cyclone season.

The Austral Islands are close to this route and provide a convenient break. If the intention is to stop there, a course should be set to make landfall west of Tubuai. The island’s lagoon is entered through the Main Pass, on the NW side, and leads to the main settlement at Mataura. Other ports of entry in the Australs are Moerai, on Rurutu, and Rairua, on Raivavae. Whether stopping in the Australs or not, boats coming from the south or SW should make landfall on the west coast of Tahiti, from where the NW coast of the island will be followed to the entrance into Papeete Harbour. Before entering or departing Papeete Harbour, all yachts must contact the port captain on channel 12. Arriving boats should proceed to Papeete Marina and complete formalities by visiting customs and immigration. It is compulsory to complete an arrival declaration, available from the marina, and email it to trafficmaritime@portppt.pf.

• PS68 New Zealand to Southern Chile

BEST TIME: | December to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, 4062, US 61, 62 |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P38 Voyages from Australia and New Zealand |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Chile, Patagonia & Tierra del Fuego Nautical Guide. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS68A |  |  |  |  |
Auckland X 36°51.0’S, 174°48.0’E | Matangi E 36°36.0’S, 174°57.3’E | Colville N 36°23.0’S, 175°23.0’E Cuvier N 36°22.5’S, 175°43.0’E Chacao W 41°41.0’S, 74°02.0’W |  |  |
|  | Chacao E 41°47.5’S, 73°31.0’W | Montt S 41°52.5’S, 72°59.5’W | Montt X 41°28.7’S, 72°56.0’W | 4883
Route PS68B |  |  |  |  |
Auckland X | Matangi E | Colville N Cuvier N |  |  |
|  | Magellan W 52°30.0’S, 75°20.5’W | Pilar 52°39.0’S, 74°41.9’W | Punta Arenas X 53 °10.0’S, 70°54.0’W | 4535
|  | Beagle W 55°14.5’S, 70°26.0’W |  | Ushuaia X 54°49.0’S, 68°17.0’W | 4485

Only a handful of cruising boats attempt to take this classic route across the Southern Ocean. Most of this passage is made in the Roaring Forties where usually there is a high proportion of westerly winds. On leaving New Zealand, the route heads SE so as to reach the area of westerly winds as soon as possible. However, as mentioned in route PS67, there is no guarantee of encountering consistent westerly winds even in latitude 40ºS and therefore it may be necessary to continue into higher latitudes. A more southerly course may need to be sailed during the summer months, from December to February, to find more consistent westerly winds, although the danger of encountering ice discourages most skippers from sailing in such high latitudes. Icebergs have been sighted in summer as far north as latitude 54ºS, showing that an extreme southerly route can be risky.

Those who would rather avoid the Roaring Forties may sail an easier route by staying just to the south of the band of SE trade winds without moving too far south into the area of strong westerlies. By watching the weather carefully it may be possible to make easting between 35ºS and 38ºS. However, the high latitude route is certainly quicker, and conditions in summer are generally good.

When the area of prevailing westerly winds is reached, the course becomes more easterly and a direct route can be sailed to the Chacao Channel in the approaches to the extensive cruising grounds of the Chilean fjordland. Puerto Montt is the place to make for as it has a marina and a good range of facilities to prepare the boat for the subsequent cruise through the Chilean Canals, where self-sufficiency is the order of the day.

Boats bound for the Strait of Magellan or the Beagle Channel should continue on their course and at some point will need to go south of latitude 50ºS. Landfall for the Strait of Magellan is made at Cape Pilar by those who prefer to reach the South Atlantic by this considerably shorter route rather than through the Beagle Channel. Making landfall in heavy weather should be avoided as the strong currents create rough seas at the entrance to the Strait of Magellan.

The most southerly route will be sailed by those who aim to go directly to Tierra del Fuego, which is reached through the Beagle Channel. For boats arriving from the west, the nearest port is Ushuaia, on the Argentine side of the Beagle Channel. Ushuaia is the base for cruise ship voyages to Antarctica. It has good provisioning and a range of repair facilities, as well as an airport with frequent flights to Buenos Aires for onward international connections. Further along the Beagle Channel lies Puerto Williams, the southernmost settlement in the world and a Chilean military base. Boats bound for Antarctica will need to complete certain formalities here as the Antarctic Peninsula is under the jurisdiction of Chile.

PS70 • Routes from Southern Melanesia

• | PS71 | New Caledonia to Fiji | 442
• | PS72 | New Caledonia to New Zealand | 443
• | PS73 | New Caledonia to New South Wales | 444
• | PS74 | New Caledonia to Queensland and Torres Strait | 445
• | PS75 | New Caledonia to Vanuatu | 446
• | PS76 | Vanuatu to New Caledonia | 447
• | PS77 | Vanuatu to Queensland and Torres Strait | 448
• | PS78 | Vanuatu to Solomon Islands | 450

The routes grouped in this and the following section all originate in one of the four Melanesian countries bordering the Coral Sea: New Caledonia, Vanuatu, Solomon Islands and Papua New Guinea. Routes from the other Melanesian country, Fiji, have been dealt with earlier. The western part of the South Pacific attracts significantly fewer cruising boats from afar than its eastern part, although there is just as much to see. One of the main reasons is that by the time most cruising boats get to this part of the Pacific, they are in a hurry to catch the favourable season in the Indian Ocean and therefore only have time to stop briefly at some of the places en route. As in so many other parts of the world, the delights of these islands can only be savoured if one reaches the more isolated and less frequented places, and to do that one needs time. So it is worth bearing this in mind and allowing sufficient time for cruising when planning a voyage through these waters.

Tropical cyclones affect the entire region, with the exception of Papua New Guinea. The tropical season starts in November. Statistically the risk of a cyclone doubles in November and doubles again in December. The critical period is December to the end of April when anyone would be ill advised to be cruising in this region. From May onwards the weather is good, although the SE trade winds tend to be almost too strong for some people’s liking at the height of the southern winter in July and August, when consistent winds of around 25 knots are not uncommon. This is why it is best to plan to cruise the area either from south to north or from east to west. Fortunately this fits in with most people’s plans as the two main routes originate in either New Zealand or Fiji. The northbound route from New Zealand is sailed by people who have spent the cyclone season there, while those coming westward from Fiji usually sail later in the season, in August and September, both routes converging at the Torres Strait.

Although the majority of routes are westbound, those who intend to sail east across the Coral Sea should plan to do so either before or after the onset of the SE trade winds, which blow most consistently between May and September. Usually in early April the trade winds are not yet fully established and eastbound passages can be accomplished without great difficulty. However, this is still the cyclone season and there is a better chance of finding favourable winds in late October or early November at the start of the NW monsoon. This must be weighed up against the risk of being caught out by an early cyclone. The period when these tropical storms occur in the Coral Sea should be treated with great caution as cyclones have been recorded in both the accepted transitional months of June and even July.

PS70 Routes from Southern Melanesia

• PS71 New Caledonia to Fiji

BEST TIME: | May |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P10 Voyages from Australia |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Pacific Crossing Guide, South Pacific Anchorages. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Noumea X 22°17.3’S, 166°26.2’E | Havannah E 22°18.0’S, 167°05.0’E | Mare S 21°43.5’S, 168°12.0’E Navula W 17°56.3’S, 177°09.3’E Navula E 17°55.5’S, 177°13.3’E Tavarua E 17°50.4’S, 177°14.2’E |  |  |
|  | Denarau SW 17°46.5’S, 177°18.5’E Lautoka SW 17°38.7’S, 177°21.2’E Beqa W 18°19.2’S, 177°59.0’E | Denarau W 17°46.2’S, 177°21.3’E Lautoka W 17°36.5’S, 177°26.2’E | Denarau 17°46.3’S, 177°23.2’E Lautoka X 17°36.5’S, 177°26.3’E | 680 689
|  | Beqa E 18°18.0’S, 178°09.0’E | Suva S 18°12.0’S, 178°23.2’E | Suva 18°08.0’S, 178°24.0’E | 723
|  | Vatulele S 18°41.5’S, 177°39.0’E |  |  |
|  | Kandavu N 18°30.0’S, 178°18.0’E | Suva S | Suva | 730

Because of the prevailing E and SE winds, this passage is mostly on the wind. A good time to sail this route is early in May, when the danger of a late cyclone is not great and the SE trades have not yet fully established themselves. Leaving either from the main island of New Caledonia or from one of the Loyalty Islands, as much easting as possible should be made at the beginning of the passage. Having reached the open sea through the Havannah Passage, a direct route can be sailed that passes between Maré Island and Durand Reef. Boats bound for ports on the west coast of Viti Levu should make a landfall just south of the entrance into the Navula Passage. A buoyed channel leads north from there to Denarau Marina and the commercial port of Lautoka. The latter is an official port of entry but entry formalities at Denarau can be completed with the assistance of the marina. Yachts arriving from overseas must complete an advance notification form (C2-C) 48 hours before ETA. The form can be downloaded from the customs website https://www.frcs.org.fj and emailed, with a photo of the boat and a scan of the captain’s passport, to yachtsreport@frcs.org.fj.

Boats bound for the capital Suva should continue east to pass north of Vatulele Island and use the Beqa (Mbengga) Channel, north of the island of that name, to reach Suva. The Daveta Levu Passage leads into Suva Harbour, whose approaches are well buoyed and lit and there are clear range markers making it easy to enter this harbour even at night. Port control should be contacted on channel 16, and arriving boats are usually directed to the quarantine anchorage near the Royal Suva Yacht Club. The club will arrange to bring the officials to the boat for clearance formalities. Going ashore anywhere in Fiji before clearing in first at one of the ports of entry is strictly prohibited. A cruising permit must be obtained from the appropriate authority after the clearing-in formalities have been completed.

In poor visibility or strong E winds, it may be preferable to pass south of Vatulele Island and use the Kandavu Channel to approach Suva from the south.

If such a direct course for Fiji cannot be sailed on account of the wind, and easting has to be made on a more southerly route, several dangers will be passed closely. The first two islands, Matthew (22º21’S, 171º21’E) and Hunter (22º24’S, 172º05’E), are easily visible as they are quite high. Much more dangerous is the low reef Theva-i-Ra (21º44’S, 174º38’E), which should be given a wide berth. The name of this reef is sometimes spelt Ceva-i-Ra and it is also known by its previous name Conway Reef.

• PS72 New Caledonia to New Zealand

BEST TIME: | October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4061, US 61 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Coastal Cruising Handbook of the Royal Arakana Yacht Club, Pickmere’s Atlas of Northland’s East Coast, Destination New Zealand. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Noumea X 22°17.3’S, 166°26.2’E | Boulari Pass 22°30.3’S, 166°26.1’E | Boulari SW 22°34.3’S, 166°20.7’E New Cal S 23°10.0’S, 166°56.0’E |  |  |
|  | [Norfolk E 29°00.0’S, 168°00.0’E Norfolk SE] 29°05.0’S, 168°00.0’E |  | Kingston 29°03.6’S, 167°57.0’E | 427
|  | North Cape 34°18.5’S, 173°03.0’E | Bay N 35°06.0’S, 174°12.6’E | Opua X 35°18.7’S, 174°07.5’E | 897

The same directions apply for this route as those given for route PS53 from Fiji to New Zealand, as weather conditions will be similar. Passages starting from New Caledonia should have a better chance of favourable winds as they have more westing in hand. Although this passage can be made at any time during the safe season, October is considered to be the best time as the danger of either an early hurricane or a late-winter gale is acceptably low.

Depending on existing weather conditions, Noumea can be left either by the Boulari Pass in the west or the Havannah Pass in the east. Regardless of the point of departure, once the open sea has been reached, a direct course can be set that passes east of Norfolk Island. As such a course can rarely be sailed on account of the SE winds likely to be encountered at the start of the passage, and the boat will probably be set to the west, a brief stop at Norfolk Island should not entail too long a detour. The anchorage off Kingston provides limited shelter and should be left in impending bad weather. However, local people will advise on alternative anchorages depending on the wind direction.

Because from this latitude onwards the main danger is to be caught out by a SW gale, any ground lost to the west, whether by calling at Norfolk Island or staying on the port tack, can be made up nearer to New Zealand. Landfall will be made off the Three Kings, from where the route continues past North Cape along the coast to the entrance into the Bay of Islands. Boats bound for Opua should contact customs before they make landfall and follow instructions to the designated quarantine dock. This is located at the northern end of the outer breakwater of Opua Marina. Opua is a convenient place to clear into New Zealand even for those who intend to continue to ports lying further south.

All yachts arriving from overseas must email the authorities 48 hours prior to their ETA, to arrange clearance on arrival (yachts@customs.govt.nz).

• PS73 New Caledonia to New South Wales

BEST TIME: | May, September to October |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Noumea X 22°17.3’S, 166°26.2’E | Dumbea Pass 22°21.2’S, 166°15.2’E | Dumbea SW 22°24.0’S, 166°12.0’E | Coffs Harbour E 30°18.5’S, 153°10.0’E | Coffs Harbour 30°18.5’S, 153°09.0’E | 861
|  |  | Sydney E 33°51.0’S, 151°21.5’E | Sydney 33°49.5’S, 151°17.0’E | 1060

Sailing conditions during the SE trade wind season are usually good, although Australia’s large landmass can and does influence weather conditions, especially within the last 200 to 300 miles. Favourable winds can be expected down to about latitude 30ºS, as the proportion of easterly winds is generally higher, especially from May to October. Further south, the frequency of SW gales increases as winter approaches. For this reason, the best time to make passages along this route is the transitional months between seasons.

Having left Noumea through the Dumbea Pass, a direct course can be set for Coffs Harbour and landfall made in the approaches to that port. Arriving boats should contact customs and quarantine on channel 16 and will be normally directed to the boarding station in the outer harbour. Notice of arrival must be given at least 96 hours prior to ETA. Details of the boat, crew, last port, if there are animals or firearms on board, and ETA should be done by phone +61 2 6246 1325 or emailed to yachtreport@homeaffairs.gov.au. There are severe penalties for not doing this and also for stopping anywhere before having cleared in. With the exception of New Zealand citizens, all foreign visitors must arrive with a valid Australian visa.

Coffs Harbour is the northernmost port of entry into New South Wales, and because of the favourable south-setting current it is a convenient place to clear into Australia. From there, it is easy to sail to more southern ports along the coast. Boats taking the direct route from New Caledonia to Sydney occasionally stop at Elizabeth Reef (29º56.0’S, 159º02.0’E) or Middleton Reef (29º26.7’S, 159º04.8’E). Both sets of coordinates are approximate and should not be relied on for accuracy. Both reefs have an anchorage; the one in the lee of Elizabeth Reef is on its NE side, whereas Middleton has a sheltered anchorage on the NW side called the Sound. In unsettled weather the temptation to stop should be resisted and the reefs given a wide berth as they have claimed many ships in the past. Both reefs are protected nature reserves. If not stopping, or in unsettled weather, these reefs should be passed at a safe distance.

Those who find it difficult to sail a course for the desired port because of consistent headwinds may do better by trying to reach the Australian coast by the shortest route and use the south-setting current to reach ports further south. South of Sandy Cape the prevailing winds off the coast are westerly from May to September and NE from October to April. The south-going current is generally strongest around the 100 fathom (200 m) line.

• PS74 New Caledonia to Queensland and Torres Strait

BEST TIME: | May to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P41a Voyages to South East Asia |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising the Coral Coast. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS74A |  |  |  |  |
Noumea X | Dumbea Pass | Dumbea SW |  |  |
22°17.3’S, 166°26.2’E | 22°21.2’S, 166°15.2’E | 22°24.0’S, 166°12.0’E Moreton N 26°56.3’S, 153°30.0’E |  |  |
|  | North East Channel N 27°00.0’S, 153°22.0’E Curtis Channel E 24°17.5’S, 153°7.0’E | Brisbane River 27°21.0’S, 153°11.0’E | Brisbane X 27°26.5’S, 153°06.3’E | 797
|  | Bundaberg E 24°45.5’S, 152°30.0’E Bellona S 22°10.0’S, 159°30.0’E Hixson S 22°27.5’S, 152°44.8’E | Bundaberg River 24°45.2’S, 152°24.2’E | Bundaberg X 24°46.0’S, 152 °22.8’E | 795
|  | Mackay E 21°07.0’S, 149°17.0’E | Mackay NE 21°06.2’S, 149°14.3’E | Mackay X 21°06.7’S, 149°13.5’E | 975
Route PS74B |  |  |  |  |
Noumea X | Dumbea Pass | Dumbea SW New Cal NW 20°18.0’S, 163°23.0’E Chesterfield NE 18°39.0’S, 158°52.0’E Papua S 10°20.0’S, 147°37.0’E |  |  |
|  | [Basilisk Passage SW] 9°34.6’S, 147°04.5’E Eastern 9°23.0’S, 145°48.3’E | Basilisk Passage NE 9°32.0’S, 147°08.0’E | Port Moresby 9°28.7’S, 147°08.6’E | 1375
|  | Bligh 9°11.3’S, 144°18.0’E | Bramble N 9°04.5’S, 143°52.7’E | Thursday Island X 10°35.2’S, 142°13.2’E | 1683

Favourable winds can be expected between New Caledonia and the Queensland coast throughout the SE trade wind season, although westerly winds can sometimes be encountered on routes that lead to ports in South Queensland, mainly in winter. If persistent headwinds make it difficult to lay a direct course for ports lying south of Sandy Cape, it is better to stay on the port tack, make landfall further up the coast and use the strong south-setting current to reach the desired port. Because of the large number of reefs dotted about the southern part of the Coral Sea, to reach ports lying north of Sandy Cape it is normally easier to sail inside the Great Barrier Reef, which can be entered through several passes. The Curtis Channel should be used for Bundaberg and Gladstone, while the Capricorn Channel is convenient for ports lying further north.

Having left Noumea and reached the open sea through the Dumbea Pass, a direct course can be set for various destinations in South Queensland. Boats bound for Brisbane should set a course to make landfall north of Moreton Island and pass at a safe distance off Flinders Reef. The course then turns south and crosses Moreton Bay through the Freeman and Main Channels to reach the mouth of the Brisbane River. The shorter approach via the South or Rous Channel, south of Moreton Island, should only be used in settled weather and with good visibility as the area is encumbered with reefs and shallow banks. In strong easterly winds the swell breaks across the entrance. The commercial port of Brisbane is close to the mouth of the Brisbane River, but the town itself is about 17 miles up the river. On arrival, yachts must proceed upriver to the clearance station at Rivergate Marina (27°26.40’S, 153°06.50’E) and go directly to the customs and quarantine berth. Notice of arrival must be given at least 96 hours prior to ETA. Details of the boat, crew, last port, if there are animals or firearms on board, and ETA should be done by phone +61 2 6246 1325 or emailed to yachtreport@homeaffairs.gov.au. There are severe penalties for not doing this and also for stopping anywhere before having cleared in. With the exception of New Zealand citizens, all foreign visitors must arrive with a valid Australian visa.

Boats bound for Bundaberg should make landfall north of Fraser Island at the entrance into the Curtis Channel. This leads across Hervey Bay to the river entrance. Boats must proceed for clearance to Bundaberg Port Marina, about one mile upriver, where there are allocated berths for clearance.

Passages to Mackay will pass south of the extensive Bellona Reef. The suggested landfall point is just south of Hixson Cay, which marks the southern extreme of an extensive area of reefs and cays. An intricate channel needs to be followed to Mackay, but as this is also used by commercial shipping, it is clearly marked. Clearance formalities are completed at Mackay Marina, which is located south of the commercial harbour.

This route across the Coral Sea lies within the SE trade wind belt and favourable winds can be expected throughout the winter months. However, cyclones can occur in the Coral Sea both during the summer and autumn and, although in most years this passage can be made at any time after mid-April, it is safer not to attempt it before late May or early June.

Route PS74B outlines a direct route to the Torres Strait. From the Dumbea Pass, a route can be sailed that runs parallel to the coast as far as the northern extremity of the island of New Caledonia. From that point, the course is altered to pass north of Chesterfield Reef and the extensive area of reefs and banks lying south of it. The direct route across the Coral Sea that can be sailed from here to the Torres Strait has the great advantage that it avoids all known dangers right up to the entrance into the Torres Strait. This offshore route can be sailed directly to the Torres Strait or with a detour to Papua New Guinea. The final part of the route runs parallel to the Papuan coast, where a convenient stop is Port Moresby, the capital of Papua New Guinea, which is reached via the Basilisk Passage. The Royal Papua Yacht Club is located past the commercial harbour, and visiting sailors are always warmly welcomed by this old established club. The club will help with clearance formalities.

From there, the route continues towards the entrance into the Torres Strait, where great care must be taken in the approaches to Eastern Fields, the first of several reefs in the eastern approaches to the Torres Strait. The course can then be altered to pass through Bligh Entrance and south of Bramble Cay. From there, the well-marked Great North East Channel runs in a SW direction for some 130 miles to the Prince of Wales Channel, which finally opens into the Arafura Sea and the Indian Ocean. Thursday Island is close to that point, and is a port of entry.

On arrival at Thursday Island, port control should be contacted on channel 16 during office hours. Cruising boats are normally directed to the customs dock, or to one of the nearby anchorages if the winds are too strong to come alongside. Even stricter quarantine regulations apply here than in the rest of Australia, and certain fresh food items will be confiscated. The continuation of the voyage is described in IS11.

• PS75 New Caledonia to Vanuatu

BEST TIME: | June to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to New Caledonia, Pocket Cruising Guide to Vanuatu, South Pacific Anchorages. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS75A |  |  |  |  |
Noumea X | Havannah E | Lifou SW |  | Lifou We | 132
22°17.3’S, 166°26.2’E | 22°18.0’S, 167°05.0’E | 21°04.0’S, 167°32.0’E |  | 20°54.2’S, 167°16.3’E |
|  | Tanna SE | Resolution E | Port Resolution | 262
|  | 19°41.0’S, 169°27.5’E | 19°30.8’S, 169°30.3’E | 19°31.0’S, 169°29.0’E |
Route PS75B |  |  |  |  |
Noumea X | Havannah E | Lifou SW Lifou NE 20°40.0’S, 167°23.0’E |  | Lifou We |
|  | Efate SW | Port Vila W | Port Vila | 321
|  | 17°47.2’S, 168°13.0’E | 17°44.6’S, 168°16.8’E | 17°44.3’S, 168°18.5’E |

The direct passage between Noumea and Port Vila is rarely made nonstop as most of those who sail this route try to visit some of the southern islands of Vanuatu on the way. This has become possible since the island of Tanna had an official port of entry established at Lenakel.

The route from the Havannah Pass, at the SE extremity of New Caledonia, goes right past Lifou Island, where stopping is only allowed if permission had been obtained before leaving Noumea. The main town, and tourist centre, on Lifou is We and there is a small marina at Port We. From there, the route continues to make landfall south of Tanna. The best anchorage is at Port Resolution, on the east coast, where the chieftain of the nearby village has set up a yacht club to welcome visiting sailors. To complete formalities, the official port of entry is at Lenakel, on the west coast of Tanna, which can be reached overland. During the cruising season, officials from Lenakel come to Port Resolution once a week to clear in boats, but the day this happens needs to be ascertained. The main attraction of Port Resolution is the nearby live Yasur volcano, which is under the guardianship of the Yakel clan, whose traditional village is at the foot of this active volcano.

Boats bound directly for the capital Port Vila will sail a similar route as far as Lifou, from where the route turns due north. Having passed west of the islands of Tanna and Erromango, landfall is made off Pango Point in the approaches to Port Vila. The well-sheltered port fronting the Vanuatu capital has a small marina managed by Yachting World, a local company looking after the needs of visiting sailors. Boats arriving from overseas are required to give 24 hours prior notice of arrival in Vanuatu. The notice must list details of boat, captain, crew, port of arrival and ETA. Email to CustomsBorder@vanuatu.gov.vu. Arriving boats should the authorities on channel 16.

• PS76 Vanuatu to New Caledonia

BEST TIME: | June to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to New Caledonia, South Pacific Anchorages. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS76A |  |  |  |  |
Port Vila 17°44.3’S, 168°18.5’E | Port Vila W 17°44.6’S, 168°16.8’E | Efate SW 17°47.2’S, 168°13.0’E |  |  |
|  | Lifou NE 20°40.0’S, 167°23.0’E Lifou SW 21°04.0’S, 167°32.0’E | Lifou E 20°51.0’S, 167°26.0’E | Lifou We 20°54.2’S, 167°16.3’E | 206
|  | Havannah E 22°18.0’S, 167°05.0’E |  | Noumea X 22°17.3’S, 166°26.2’E | 321
Route PS76B |  |  |  |  |
Port Resolution 19°31.0’S, 169°29.0’E | Resolution E 19°30.8’S, 169°30.3’E | Tanna SE 19°41.0’S, 169°27.5’E |  |  |
|  | Havannah E |  | Noumea X | 262

Favourable winds will be enjoyed on this passage throughout the winter season. The direct route from Port Vila to the Havannah Pass (PS76A) goes right past Lifou Island, but as Noumea is the only official port of entry into New Caledonia, stopping at any island before having cleared in at the capital is not permitted. The main settlement on Lifou is We, where there is a marina at Port We. In exceptional circumstances yachts have been allowed to stop there but must be agreed in advance with the authorities in Noumea. The same considerations apply to passages starting from Tanna as the direct route passes between Lifou and Mare Island, and to stop at the former is quite tempting.

Whether stopping at Lifou or continuing nonstop to Noumea, the capital can be reached by using the Havannah Pass to reach the inner lagoon. The pass should be negotiated on a flood tide. Due to the prevailing SE winds the tide sets very strongly through the pass, creating large waves when the ebb tide runs against a strong wind.

Approaches to Noumea are difficult at night and should not be attempted. If Noumea cannot be reached in daylight it is recommended to anchor for the night and enter the port the following morning, which is tolerated by the authorities if the crew stay on board. Arriving boats should contact Port Moselle on channel 67 to arrange a berth at the visitors’ dock. The marina will contact customs and immigration for clearance. There are four marinas in the Noumea area, but Port Moselle is the most convenient. Yachting facilities are very good thanks to a large local sailing community.

• PS77 Vanuatu to Queensland and Torres Strait

BEST TIME: | June to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P41a Voyages to South East Asia |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising the Coral Coast. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS77A |  |  |  |  |
Port Vila 17°44.3’S, 168°18.5’E | Port Vila W 17°44.6’S, 168°16.8’E | Efate W 17°45.5’S, 168°10.0’E Reef 18°26.0’S, 164°25.0’E Grand Passage 18°40.0’S, 163°22.0’E Landsdowne SE 20°40.0’S, 161°30.0’E Seamounts S 21°28.0’S, 160°45.0’E Bellona S 22°10.0’S, 159°30.0’E Curtis Channel E 24°17.5’S, 153°07.0’E |  |  |
|  | Bundaberg E 24°45.5’S, 152°30.0’E | Bundaberg River 24°45.2’S, 152°24.2’E | Bundaberg X 24°46.0’S, 152 °22.8’E | 1017
Route PS77B |  |  |  |  |
Port Vila | Port Vila W | Efate W Entrecasteaux N 17°45.5’S, 162°52.0’E Moore Reefs N 17°46.0’S, 149°37.5’E Grafton Passage E 16°38.2’S, 146°13.5’E |  |  |
|  | Grafton Passage W 16°50.5’S, 146°02.0’E | Cairns N 16°46.5’S, 145°52.0’E | Cairns 16°54.3’S, 145°47.3’E | 1310
Route PS77C |  |  |  |  |
Luganville 15°31.3’S, 167°10.1’E | Luganville E 15°32.0’S, 167°16.0’E | Santo NE 15°25.0’S, 167°18.0’E Santo N 14°51.0’S, 167°11.5’E |  |  |
|  | Santo NW 14°31.5’S, 166°35.0’E Moore Reefs N Grafton Passage E |  |  |
|  | Grafton Passage W | Cairns N | Cairns | 1314
Route PS77D |  |  |  |  |
Luganville | Luganville E | Santo NE Santo N Santo NW Papua S 10°20.0’S, 147°37.0’E |  |  |
|  | [Basilisk Passage SW] 9°34.6’S, 147°04.5’E Eastern 9°23.0’S, 145°48.3’E | Basilisk Passage NE 9°32.0’S, 147°08.0’E | Port Moresby 9°28.7’S, 147°08.6’E | 1290
|  | Bligh 9°11.3’S, 144°18.0’E | Bramble N 9°04.5’S, 143°52.7’E | Thursday Island X 10°35.2’S, 142°13.2’E | 1597

Steady winds and a favourable current usually ensure fast offshore passages across the Coral Sea. Although there are many reefs waiting to strike the unwary, thanks to satellite navigation passages are now much safer, but the utmost attention is still required when navigating anywhere in this area. Good winds can be expected throughout the SE trade wind season. During the winter months the SE trade winds blow strongly and consistently in the Coral Sea and fast passages have been accomplished, especially between July and early September. The official cyclone season is from November to April, with December to March being the months with the highest incidence of cyclones.

Route PS77A is normally sailed by those who wish to leave the tropics during the cyclone season and prefer to do this in Southern Queensland or New South Wales. The direct route from Port Vila to the Australian coast must cross an area encumbered with reefs NW of New Caledonia. The recommended route passes through an intermediate waypoint to avoid an unmarked reef and continues to the Grand Passage north of New Caledonia, from where the course is altered to pass south of Landsdowne Reef. A precautionary waypoint has been listed for the seamounts that lie close to this route as rough seas can be encountered there during strong winds, and it is therefore advisable to pass south of it. The extensive Bellona Reef is also left to starboard before the course is altered to make landfall north of Fraser Island at the entrance into the Curtis Channel. This leads across Hervey Bay to the mouth of the Bundaberg River. Boats must proceed for clearance to Bundaberg Port Marina, about one mile upriver, where they will be allocated a berth for clearance. Bundaberg is a good place to prepare for those who plan to continue south, as although cyclones occur very rarely in Bundaberg, the area is still considered to be susceptible to cyclones.

An almost direct route can be sailed from Efate to North Queensland (PS77B) by sailing a course that avoids all dangers by passing north of them. From Efate Island, an initial course is set to pass north of the Entrecasteaux Reefs, at the northern extremity of the large reef-infested area north of New Caledonia Island. The northernmost of those reefs is the Huon Atoll, which has two passes on its west side and could provide shelter in an emergency. From that point, a direct course can be sailed to pass north of the Moore Reefs in the approaches to the Grafton Passage. Having passed the Moore Reefs, the course should be altered to make landfall north of the Euston Reef light at the entrance into the Grafton Passage. Crossing the Great Barrier Reef at this pass is recommended as the Grafton Passage is used by commercial shipping and is well buoyed and lit. Because of its location at the heart of the Great Barrier Reef, Cairns in North Queensland is a popular destination for cruising boats. Once through the Grafton Passage, the main shipping channel is followed into Cairns. At that point, Cairns harbour control should be contacted on channel 16 to give an ETA. Cairns is the official port of entry for that area and has a good range of yachting facilities. The Australian Border Force must be notified 96 hours prior to arrival. Details of the boat, crew, last port, if there are animals or firearms on board, and ETA should be given by phone +61 2 6246 1325 or emailed to yachtreport@homeaffairs.gov.au.

A somewhat easier course across the Coral Sea can be sailed by those who clear out of Vanuatu at Luganville, on Espiritu Santo Island, from where the route to the Grafton Passage (PS77C) passes clear of all dangers. Having reached the open sea north of Espiritu Santo, a course is set to pass north of the Moore Reefs. From there, similar directions apply as described above to reach the Grafton Pass (PS77B).

Luganville, on Efate Island, is also a convenient place for those who are on their way to the Torres Strait and the Indian Ocean to clear out of Vanuatu. A direct course can be sailed right across the Coral Sea to the Papuan coast. The route continues parallel to the coast passing close to Port Moresby, where the voyage may be interrupted. Access to the capital of Papua New Guinea is via the Basilisk Passage. The Royal Papua Yacht Club is located past the commercial harbour, and visiting sailors are always warmly welcomed by this old established club. All vessels are required to give notice of arrival no later than 48 hours before ETA to NCC@customs.gov.pg with details of boat, captain, crew, last four ports and intended port of arrival. Everyone must also have a visa, which should be obtained online in advance.

For details of the continuation of the passage to the Torres Strait refer to PS74.

• PS78 Vanuatu to Solomon Islands

BEST TIME: | July to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Solomon Islands Cruising Guide, South Pacific Anchorages. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS78A |  |  |  |  |
Luganville 15°31.3’S, 167°10.1’E | Luganville E 15°32.0’S, 167°16.0’E | Santo NE 15°25.0’S, 167°18.0’E Santo N 14°51.0’S, 167°11.5’E Santo NW 14°31.5’S, 166°35.0’E Guadalcanal S 10°12.0’S, 160°49.0’E Guadalcanal SE 9°47.0’S, 161°01.0’E |  |  |
|  | Guadalcanal NE 9°22.0’S, 160°22.5’E | Honiara NE 9°22.5’S, 160°00.5’E | Honiara 9°25.8’S, 159°57.8’E | 613
Route PS78B |  |  |  |  |
Luganville | Luganville E | Santo NE Santo N |  |  |
|  | Ndendo SW 10°45.5’S, 165°40.5’E | West Passage 10°42.3’S, 165°47.0’E | Graciosa Bay 10°44.0’S, 165°49.0’E | 318

Having sailed through the island chain of Vanuatu, a passage from Espiritu Santo Island to the Solomon Islands is straightforward as the winds tend to be favourable throughout the SE trade wind season. During July and August the trades blow strongly, making this a fast but rough passage. Both at the beginning and towards the end of the winter season the trade winds are less consistent and days with calms or westerly winds are common.

From Luganville the east coast of Espiritu Santo is followed to the island’s NW point from where a course is set for Guadalcanal Island. Landfall is made south of that island from where its east coast is followed around to the capital Honiara. Visiting yachts are advised to anchor near the Point Cruz Yacht Club and go ashore to contact the relevant officials. Formalities are completed at the various offices in the commercial harbour area.

A more convenient port of entry into the Solomon Islands may be at Lata in Graciosa Bay on Ndende Island in the Santa Cruz group (PS78B). On arrival, it is possible to anchor close to the commercial wharf. There is a quarantine official based here. Immigration and entry formalities must be completed on arrival at the capital Honiara.

PS80 • Routes from Northern Melanesia

• | PS81 | Solomon Islands to Papua New Guinea | 452
• | PS82 | Solomon Islands to Torres Strait | 453
• | PS83 | Solomon Islands to Queensland | 454
• | PS84 | Papua New Guinea to Queensland | 454
• | PS85 | Papua New Guinea to Torres Strait | 455
• | PS86 | Papua New Guinea to Indonesia | 456

Most routes described in this section cross the Coral Sea, an area known for boisterous winds during the SE trade wind season. It is also an area encumbered by many reefs and low islands, so navigating any of these routes calls for considerable attention. One more difficulty associated with this area is that the cyclone season is not as well defined as in other parts of the South Pacific, and tropical storms can occur outside the established season, in June, July and even September. On the other hand, most of Papua New Guinea is not affected by cyclones and cruising there is quite safe during the South Pacific cyclone season. For this reason, sailors bound for destinations in South East Asia, the Philippines or Micronesia, often use ports on the north coast of New Guinea to start their west or northbound passages.

PS80 Routes from Northern Melanesia

• PS81 Solomon Islands to Papua New Guinea

BEST TIME: | June to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS81A |  |  |  |  |
Gizo X 8°05.3’S, 156°50.7’E | Gizo SW 8°22.0’S, 156°34.0’E | Mono S 7°28.0’S, 155°27.0’E |  |  |
|  | Bougainville S 5°36.5’S, 154°31.0’E New Ireland S 4°55.0’S, 152°48.0’E | Bougainville SW 5°29.0’S, 154°32.0’E | Buka X 5°25.2’S, 154°40.8’E | 251
|  | Gazelle NE 4°17.5’S, 152°25.0’E | Rabaul S 4°16.5’S, 152°11.5’E | Rabaul 4°12.2’S, 152°10.5’E | 406
Route PS81B |  |  |  |  |
Gizo X | Gizo SW | Strathord N 10°03.5’S, 151°50.0’E Hull S 10°24.5’S, 151°12.0’E |  |  |
|  | China Strait N 10°30.0’S, 150°46.0’E | China Strait 10°33.3’S, 150°42.8’E | Samarai X 10°36.7’S, 150°39.6’E | 400

The cyclone season in the Solomon Islands coincides with the NW monsoon, which affects most of Papua New Guinea and the NW part of the Solomons. Most people try to leave the Solomons by late October, not only to avoid the approaching cyclone season, but also the headwinds that can be expected on this route during the NW monsoon. The majority of those who sail between these two countries have usually cruised along the Solomon Islands chain and one of the most popular destinations to spend the cyclone season in Papua New Guinea is Rabaul on New Britain Island. The best point of departure from the Solomons is Gizo in the New Georgia group.

The nearest island in Papua New Guinea is Bougainville, where Buka is a port of entry. Landfall is made SW of the large island, whose west coast is followed to the entrance into the Bougainville Passage between the main island and Buka Island. Formalities can be completed in Buka Town, but because of the strong currents running through the Bougainville Channel and the difficult entrance through a reef area if arriving from the west, the alternative is to approach Buka from the east or continue to Rabaul and complete entry formalities there. In the latter case, the route continues in a NW direction and makes landfall at the south entrance to St George’s Channel. The port of Rabaul is reached by turning west past the Gazelle Peninsula to enter the wide bay and well-protected harbour. Rabaul’s main disadvantage is the fact that it lies in the proximity of an active volcano. The Tavurvur Volcano had a major eruption in 1994 when much of the town was destroyed. Rabaul has since been mostly rebuilt but a minor eruption occurred in 2014. Volcanic activity in the area continues to be carefully monitored. All vessels are required to give notice of arrival no later than 48 hours before ETA to NCC@customs.gov.pg with details of boat, captain, crew, last four ports and intended port of arrival. Everyone must also have a visa, which should be obtained online in advance. Cruising yachts normally use the facilities of the Rabaul Yacht Club, on the east side of the harbour, where a number of moorings have been laid for the use of visiting yachts.

For boats bound for other parts of Papua New Guinea, Samarai may be a more convenient port of entry. From Gizo, the recommended route winds its way past several islands and reefs to make landfall at the northern entrance into the China Strait. The strait is swept by strong tidal currents and the port of Samarai lies on the west coast of the island of the same name. Formalities are completed in the commercial harbour.

From April to October the winds in the Solomon Sea blow mostly from the SE. During the transition period between the SE trade wind season and the NW monsoon, the winds are variable and there are also prolonged periods of calm. When negotiating St George’s Channel between the islands of New Britain and New Ireland, the currents can be quite strong. They set south during the NW monsoon and north during the SE trade wind season.

• PS82 Solomon Islands to Torres Strait

BEST TIME: | June to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Gizo X 8°05.3’S, 156°50.7’E | Gizo SW 8°22.0’S, 156°34.0’E |  |  |  |
Honiara | Guadalcanal NW | Louisiade E |  |  |
9°25.8’S, 159°57.8’E | 9°11.5’S, 159°42.0’E | 11°51.0’S, 154°23.5’E Papua S 10°20.0’S, 147°37.0’E |  |  |
|  | [Basilisk Passage SW] 9°34.6’S, 147°04.5’E Eastern 9°23.0’S, 145°48.3’E | Basilisk Passage NE 9°32.0’S, 147°08.0’E | Port Moresby 9°28.7’S, 147°08.6’E | 741/802
|  | Bligh 9°11.3’S, 144°18.0’E | Bramble N 9°04.5’S, 143°52.7’E | Thursday Island X 10°35.2’S, 142°13.2’E | 1049/1112

The chances of a fast passage to the Torres Strait are best when the SE trade winds are still in force. This timing will also ensure favourable winds west of the Torres Strait. With the approach of the NW monsoon, the SE trade winds become less reliable, and by the end of September the onward leg from the Torres Strait will have light winds. The currents on this route set strongly NW and this should be taken into account if the course passes too closely to the reefs off the coast of Papua.

The route departing from Gizo merges with the route from the capital Honiara, SE of the Louisiade Islands. From that point, the route runs parallel to the south coast of Papua New Guinea passing right by the capital Port Moresby. This is a convenient place to prepare for the rest of the voyage as there is a good range of repair and provisioning facilities, a welcoming yacht club and international airport. Access to Port Moresby is through the Basilisk Passage. The Royal Papua Yacht Club, where visiting boats normally dock, is located past the commercial harbour. The club will help with arrangements for clearance. All vessels are required to give notice of arrival no later than 48 hours before ETA to NCC@ customs.gov.pg with details of boat, captain, crew, last four ports and intended port of arrival. Everyone must also have a visa, which should be obtained online in advance.

From Port Moresby, the route continues towards the entrance into the Torres Strait, where great care must be taken in the approaches to Eastern Fields, the first of several reefs in the eastern approaches to the Torres Strait. The course can then be altered to pass through Bligh Entrance and south of Bramble Cay. From there, the well-marked Great North East Channel runs in a SW direction for some 130 miles to the Prince of Wales Channel, which finally opens into the Arafura Sea and the Indian Ocean. Thursday Island is close to that point, and is a port of entry. The Australian Border Force must be notified 96 hours prior to arrival. Details of the boat, crew, last port, if there are animals or firearms on board, and ETA should be given by phone +61 2 6246 1325 or emailed to yachtreport@homeaffairs.gov.au.

On arrival at Thursday Island, port control should be contacted on channel 16 during office hours. Cruising boats are normally directed to the customs dock, or to one of the nearby anchorages if the winds are too strong to come alongside. Even stricter quarantine regulations apply here than in the rest of Australia, and certain fresh food items will be confiscated. The continuation of the voyage to Darwin is described in IS11.

• PS83 Solomon Islands to Queensland

BEST TIME: | June to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising the Coral Coast. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Honiara 9°25.8’S, 159°57.8’E | Guadalcanal NW 9°11.5’S, 159°42.0’E | Moore Reefs N 15°34.0’S, 149°37.5’E Grafton Passage E 16°38.2’S, 146°13.5’E |  |  |
|  | Grafton Passage W 16°50.5’S, 146°02.0’E | Cairns N 16°46.5’S, 145°52.0’E | Cairns 16°54.3’S, 145°47.3’E | 966

The approach of the cyclone season brings an exodus of cruising boats from the Solomons, either north to Papua New Guinea or west to the Torres Strait and SE Asia.

The nearest destination in Queensland is Cairns, which is also the most popular among cruising sailors as it has a wide range of repair facilities as well as an international airport. From Guadalcanal, a direct route can be sailed to pass north of the Moore Reefs to the Grafton Passage. Once through the Grafton Passage, the main shipping channel is followed into Cairns. At that point, Cairns harbour control should be contacted on channel 16 to give an ETA. Yachts are normally told to go to the Marlin Marina to complete formalities. Foreign-flagged yachts must give Australian customs notice of arrival at least 96 hours prior to their ETA. There are severe penalties for not doing this and also for stopping anywhere before having cleared in. With the exception of New Zealand citizens, all foreign visitors must arrive with a valid Australian visa. The Australian Border Force must be notified 96 hours prior to arrival. Details of the boat, crew, last port, if there are animals or firearms on board, and ETA should be given by phone +61 2 6246 1325 or emailed to yachtreport@homeaffairs.gov.au.

• PS84 Papua New Guinea to Queensland

BEST TIME: | July to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising the Coral Coast. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS84A |  |  |  |  |
Port Moresby 9°28.7’S, 147°08.6’E | Basilisk Passage NE 9°32.0’S, 147°08.0’E | Basilisk Passage SW 9°34.6’S, 147°04.5’E Osprey E 13°50.0’S, 147°05.0’E Grafton Passage E 16°38.2’S, 146°13.5’E |  |  |
|  | Grafton Passage W 16°50.5’S, 146°02.0’E | Cairns N 16°46.5’S, 145°52.0’E | Cairns 16°54.3’S, 145°47.3’E | 474
Route PS84B |  |  |  |  |
Samarai X 10°36.7’S, 150°39.6’E | China Strait S 10°36.0’S, 150°37.2’E | Papua SE 10°54.0’S, 150°21.2’E Bougainville W 15°28.0’S, 146°57.0’E Grafton Passage E |  |  |
|  | Grafton Passage W | Cairns N | Cairns | 482

The attraction of a fast sail in sheltered waters tempts most sailors to go behind the Great Barrier Reef as soon as they have the Coral Sea behind them. If coming from Port Moresby, the choice is wide as there are several passes that lead through the reef, from Flinders Entrance in the north to Cook’s Pass in the south. Coming from other parts of Papua New Guinea, probably the most convenient pass is the Grafton Passage, which leads into Cairns, the nearest port of entry in Northern Queensland. As this is the easiest way to reach Cairns on an offshore passage, waypoints are only listed for such a route.

The winds in the Coral Sea blow mostly from the E or SE between April and October, so a more easterly departure point in Papua New Guinea normally ensures a better slant across the prevailing winds. Between May and August the trade winds can sometimes be very strong, but during the transitional months they are often light and the weather can be squally. NW winds predominate in summer, which is also the cyclone season.

Having left Port Moresby through the Basilisk Pass, the safest offshore route (PS84A) passes east of Osprey and Shark Reefs to make landfall in the approaches to the Grafton Passage. See PS83 for details on the continuation of the passage to Cairns.

For boats that have cruised the eastern part of Papua New Guinea, a departure from Samarai through the China Strait has the advantage of a virtually clear run across the Coral Sea (PS84B). Having passed Brumer Island and gained the open sea, a direct course can be set to pass west of Bougainville Reef, on which there is a powerful light making it a useful point of reference. The course can then be altered for the Grafton Passage.

Foreign-flagged yachts must give Australian customs notice of arrival at least 96 hours prior to their ETA. Details of the boat, crew, last port, if there are animals or firearms on board, and ETA should be given by phone +61 2 6246 1325 or emailed to yachtreport@homeaffairs. gov.au. There are severe penalties for not doing this and also for stopping anywhere before having cleared in. With the exception of New Zealand citizens, all foreign visitors must arrive with a valid Australian visa.

• PS85 Papua New Guinea to Torres Strait

BEST TIME: | June to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Port Moresby | Basilisk Passage NE | Basilisk Passage SW |  |  |
9°28.7’S, 147°08.6’E | 9°32.0’S, 147°08.0’E | 9°34.6’S, 147°04.5’E |  |  |
|  | Eastern 9°23.0’S, 145°48.3’E | Bligh 9°11.3’S, 144°18.0’E | Thursday Island X 10°35.2’S, 142°13.2’E | 322

In the days before satellite navigation, Port Moresby was the preferred port of departure for a passage to the Torres Strait. This was a logical choice as the various difficulties associated with navigation through the Torres Strait made it essential to plan the time of arrival in the eastern approaches to the strait so as to minimise the risk of passing close to some of the reefs at night. Although satellite navigation has greatly simplified matters, a start from Port Moresby still makes it easier to time one’s arrival more accurately than if one leaves from a more distant port.

Having left Port Moresby through the Basilisk Passage, the route cuts across the Gulf of Papua to the entrance into the Torres Strait passing north of Eastern Fields, one of several reefs in the eastern approaches to the strait. The course can then be altered to pass through Bligh Entrance and south of Bramble Cay.

From there, the well-marked Great North East Channel runs in a SW direction for some 130 miles to the Prince of Wales Channel, which finally opens into the Arafura Sea and the Indian Ocean. Thursday Island is close to that point, and is a port of entry. The same strict quarantine and customs regulations apply as in the rest of Australia. Details of the boat, crew, last port, if there are animals or firearms on board, and ETA should be given by phone +61 2 6246 1325 or emailed to yachtreport@homeaffairs.gov.au.

The winds on this passage are predominantly easterly and between June and August they are often strong. A west-setting current is noticeable all along this route. The currents running through the strait have a strong westerly set at the height of the SE trades, but their rates are unpredictable. The currents are also tidal and in the strait itself they run WSW on the flood and NE on the ebb tide. The strongest sets have been recorded in the Prince of Wales Channel, where 5- and 6-knot currents are normal. Another hazard in the eastern approaches is the shallow water extending far offshore so that the depth sounder cannot give a reliable indication of position. Yet another cause of confusion is the murky waters encountered far offshore caused by a muddy discharge from the Fly River. The colour of the water gives no indication of its depth.

Although navigation through this reef-strewn area is not difficult after landfall on Bramble Cay, it is easier to sail in daylight and spend the nights at anchor behind one of the many cays. It must be pointed out that landing on any of the islands is not allowed unless you have cleared into Australia already, otherwise you must clear in at Thursday Island. One should heed this advice, only anchor if absolutely necessary and neither go ashore nor have contact with any other vessel. Australian Coast Guard helicopters regularly overfly the area to ensure that these regulations are not violated, and those who ignore them are severely punished.

Torres Strait is a convenient place for the continuation of the voyage to either Northern Australia (IS11) or Indonesia (IS13).

• PS86 Papua New Guinea to Indonesia

BEST TIME: | June to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4052, US 52 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P41a Voyages to South East Asia |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to Southeast Asia: Volume II. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Madang 5°12.5’S, 145°48.0’E | Madang NE 5°08.0’S, 145°50.5’E | Karkar NE 4°31.0’S, 146°13.5’E Karkar NW 4°20.0’S, 145°50.0’E Aris 3°50.0’S, 145°02.0’E |  |  |
|  | Wewak NE 3°32.0’S, 143°42.4’E Wewak N 3°31.0’S, 143°40.5’E Kairiru NE 3°18.5’S, 143°38.5’E Tarawai N 3°08.5’S, 143°18.0’E |  | Wewak 3°34.0’S, 143°40.7’E | 215
|  | Vanimo NW 2°39.0’S, 141°15.0’E |  | Vanimo 2°41.0’S, 141°17.9’E | 380
|  | Jayapura NE 2°29.5’S, 140°53.0’E | Jayapura E 2°32.5’S, 140°46.0’E | Jayapura 2°32.4’S, 140°43.0’E | 411

The shortest route to Indonesia is via the Torres Strait and this is the way normally taken by those who have stopped only in Port Moresby. The difficulties associated with the passage through the Torres Strait and the long detour to Port Moresby persuade some sailors to reach Indonesia by sailing along the north coast of New Guinea. This northern route is used mostly by boats that have spent the cyclone season in the eastern part of Papua New Guinea, or have been cruising in that area and are therefore better poised for this route.

This is a passage that can be done only during the SE trade wind season, as during the NW monsoon, from November to March, both winds and current are contrary. The transitional period is difficult to define, as in some years the NW monsoon comes early, while in others the SE trade winds do not establish themselves until May. Although the weather along this route is governed by the two monsoons, the winds are rarely steady in either direction or strength and there are many days when they are light or non-existent. Calms are particularly frequent during the transitional period. The most constant SE winds usually occur in July and August when there is also a very strong NW-setting current, with rates that can exceed 2 knots.

There are several departure points for this route, with Madang having the best facilities to prepare for a voyage to Indonesia. The route follows the contour of the New Guinea coast and has a choice of two further ports, Wewak and Vanimo, which are conveniently located to complete exit formalities from Papua New Guinea.

Jayapura, the capital of the Indonesian province of Irian Jaya (Western Irian), is the nearest official port of entry. Its former name was Sukarnapura, while in colonial days it was known as Hollandia. Formalities are completed in the commercial port area, where the office of the harbour master should be visited first. Vessels arriving in Indonesia must be registered in advance on the yacht electronic registration system at https://yachters.beacukai.go.id.

PS90 • Routes from New South Wales

• | PS91 | New South Wales to New Zealand | 458
• | PS92 | New South Wales to New Caledonia | 459
• | PS93 | New South Wales to Fiji | 460
• | PS94 | New South Wales to Vanuatu | 461
• | PS95 | Westbound from Southern Australia | 462

Australian sailors have the entire South Pacific on their doorstep, yet reaching most of the islands is not easy, as the winds between the east coast of Australia and the island groups to the east are usually contrary. For this reason, most Australians setting off on a world voyage prefer to leave the South Pacific until the end of their trip when most of the sailing will be downwind. For those whose plans are less ambitious than a circumnavigation of the world, the accepted practice is to sail first to New Zealand, which makes a much better start for a South Seas cruise than Australia itself. Shorter cruises from Australia’s east coast lead across the Coral Sea, with New Caledonia and Vanuatu being reached directly, whereas for destinations in Papua New Guinea and the Solomon Islands it is usually better to stay inside the Great Barrier Reef before taking an offshore route.

PS90 Routes from New South Wales

A less frequented westbound route, which stays south of Australia, has been sailed in recent years by those wishing to reach the South Indian Ocean by a shorter, albeit probably more difficult, route. See PS95.

• PS91 New South Wales to New Zealand

BEST TIME: | November to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P6 Voyages from Australia |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Coastal Cruising Handbook of the Royal Arakana Yacht Club, Pickmere’s Atlas of Northland’s East Coast, Destination New Zealand. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS91A |  |  |  |  |
Sydney 33°49.5’S, 151°17.0’E | Sydney E 33°51.0’S, 151°21.5’E | Three Kings N 33°59.0’S, 172°09.0’E |  |  |
|  | North Cape 34°18.5’S, 173°03.0’E | Bay N 35°06.0’S, 174°12.6’E | Opua X 35°18.7’S, 174°07.5’E | 1174
Route PS91B |  |  |  |  |
Sydney | Sydney E | Stephens 40°30.0’S, 174°15.0’E Cook N 40°56.0’S, 174°34.0’E |  |  |
|  | Cook S 41°16.0’S, 174°31.0’E | Wellington SE 41°23.0’S, 174°44.0’E | Wellington X 41°17.0’S, 174°47.0’E | 1530
Route PS91C |  |  |  |  |
Coffs Harbour 30°18.5’S, 153°09.0’E | Coffs Harbour E 30°18.5’S, 153°10.0’E | [Lord Howe NW 31°30.0’S, 159°01.0’E Lord Howe S] 31°36.5’S, 159°04.0’E Three Kings N |  | Lord Howe 31°32.0’S, 159°03.3’E | 313
|  | North Cape | Bay N | Opua X | 1126

This passage across the Tasman Sea can occasionally be very rough and it pays to wait for a favourable forecast before leaving. Lows moving across the Tasman Sea are accompanied by strong SW winds, often of gale force, and it may be worth leaving on the tail of such a gale, which will usually ensure several days of favourable winds. Although the proportion of westerly winds is higher in winter, a passage between June and September is not recommended because of the likelihood of encountering at least one severe gale. The best months are January and February when conditions are often settled and winds are light. Although these months coincide with the cyclone season in the South Pacific, tropical cyclones rarely find their way to these latitudes, and even when they do their force is usually spent. The route from southern ports is direct, but a stop at Lord Howe Island might be considered by those leaving from northerly ports.

Boats leaving from Sydney on a direct passage to North Island (route PS91A) can set a course to make landfall north of the Three Kings, a group of rocks NW of Cape Reinga. From there, the route continues parallel to the coast to the entrance into the Bay of Islands. Boats bound for Opua should contact customs before they make landfall and follow instructions to the designated quarantine dock. This is located at the northern end of the outer breakwater of Opua Marina. Opua is a convenient place to clear into New Zealand even for those who intend to continue to ports lying further south. All yachts arriving from overseas must contact the authorities 48 hours prior to their ETA by email (yachts@customs.govt.nz).

From Sydney, a direct route (PS91B) can be sailed through the Cook Strait to Wellington, this more southerly route having a better chance of favourable westerly winds. From Sydney, a course should be set to make landfall north of Stephen Island in the approaches to the Cook Strait. From there, the course continues due south through the Cook Strait before proceeding into Wellington. Wellington Radio should be contacted on channel 16 for berthing and clearance instructions. Cruising boats are normally directed to Chaffers Marina.

The direct route from Coffs Harbour to the Bay of Islands (PS91C) passes close to Lord Howe Island, where a stop may be considered. Arriving boats should contact the port operational manager on channel 12 and ask permission to pick up a mooring buoy in the lagoon as anchoring is no longer permitted. From Lord Howe Island, the continuation of the passage is as described above.

• PS92 New South Wales to New Caledonia

BEST TIME: | May to June |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to New Caledonia. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Sydney 33°49.5’S, 151°17.0’E | Sydney E 33°51.0’S, 151°21.5’E |  |  |  | 1063
Coffs Harbour 30°18.5’S, 153°09.0’E | Coffs Harbour E 30°18.5’S, 153°10.0’E | Boulari SW 22°34.3’S, 166°20.7’E | Boulari Pass 22°30.3’S, 166°26.1’E | Noumea X 22°17.3’S, 166°26.2’E | 866

Strong easterly winds will be encountered on this route during the winter months, but more favourable conditions may be found during the transition period, in early May. Because of the danger posed by cyclones during the summer, this passage should not be undertaken before the end of April.

The initial course should lead straight offshore to pass quickly through the current that sets strongly south along the coast. The route from Sydney passes close to Middleton and Elizabeth Reefs, which are best avoided, although it is possible to anchor there in settled weather. Both reefs have an anchorage; the one in the lee of Elizabeth Reef is on its NE side, whereas Middleton has a sheltered anchorage on the NW side called the Sound. Both reefs are protected nature reserves.

The large island of New Caledonia is encumbered with reefs for a long distance offshore and the recommended landfall point has been set well clear of the reefs’ SW extremity. From that point, the route runs parallel to the reef line to the Boulari Pass, from where a marked channel leads to Noumea. Approaches into Noumea are difficult at night and should not be attempted. If Noumea cannot be reached in daylight it is recommended to anchor for the night and enter the port the following morning. Arriving boats should contact Port Moselle on channel 67 to arrange a berth at the visitors’ dock. The marina will contact customs and immigration for clearance. There are four marinas in the Noumea area, but Port Moselle is the most convenient. Yachting facilities are very good thanks to a large local sailing community.

• PS93 New South Wales to Fiji

BEST TIME: | May to June |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P10 Voyages from Australia |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Pacific Crossing Guide, South Pacific Anchorages. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Coffs Harbour 30°18.5’S, 153°09.0’E | Coffs Harbour E 30°18.5’S, 153°10.0’E |  |  |  |
Sydney 33°49.5’S, 151°17.0’E | Sydney E 33°51.0’S, 151°21.5’E | [Lord Howe NW] 31°30.0’S, 159°01.0’E |  | Lord Howe 31°32.0’S, 159°03.3’E | 313/418
|  | [Norfolk S] 29°05.0’S, 168°00.0’E Navula W 17°56.3’S, 177°09.3’E Navula E 17°55.5’S, 177°13.3’E Tavarua E 17°50.4’S, 177°14.2’E |  | Kingston 29°01.0’S, 167°59.0’E | 781/905
|  | Denarau SW 17°46.5’S, 177°18.5’E | Denarau W 17°46.2’S, 177°21.3’E | Denarau 17°46.3’S, 177°23.2’E | 1524/1703
|  | Lautoka SW 17°38.7’S, 177°21.2’E Vatulele S 18°41.5’S, 177°39.0’E | Lautoka W 17°36.5’S, 177°26.2’E | Lautoka X 17°36.5’S, 177°26.3’E | 1533/1712
|  | Kandavu N 18°30.0’S, 178°18.0’E | Suva S 18°12.0’S, 178°23.2’E | Suva 18°08.0’S, 178°24.0’E | 1565/1739

The near certainty of encountering contrary winds on direct passages to Fiji from any port in New South Wales can turn them into a difficult undertaking. Much will also depend on the windward-going capabilities of the yacht in question as much of the passage will be hard on the wind. Close to the route from Sydney is Lord Howe Island, which could make a convenient stop to wait for better conditions. Arriving boats should contact the port operational manager on channel 12 and ask permission to pick up a mooring buoy in the lagoon as anchoring is no longer permitted. Norfolk Island could provide another stop, although it lies well off the direct route.

The route for boats setting off from Coffs Harbour passes close to Middleton and Elizabeth Reefs. Both reefs have an anchorage; the one in the lee of Elizabeth Reef is on its NE side, whereas Middleton has a sheltered anchorage on the NW side called the Sound. Both reefs are protected nature reserves.

A boat that goes well to windward may be able to sail an almost direct course, which will pass SE of New Caledonia. Several dangers will be passed on the way, among them two islands, Matthew (22º21’S, 171º21’E) and Hunter (22º24’S, 172º05’E), which are easily visible as they are quite high. Much more dangerous is the low reef Theva-i-Ra (21º44’S, 174º38’E), which should be given a wide berth.

Those intending to sail to ports on the west coast of Viti Levu should make landfall SW of Viti Levu at the entrance into the Navula Passage. A buoyed channel leads to Lautoka and also Denarau Marina. The official port of entry is Lautoka.

Those who are bound for Suva should make landfall south of Vatulele Island, from where the route continues north of Kandavu Island. The Daveta Levu Passage leads into Suva Harbour, whose approaches are well buoyed and lit, and there are clear range markers making it easy to enter this harbour even at night. Port control should be contacted on channel 16, and arriving boats are usually directed to the quarantine anchorage near the Royal Suva Yacht Club. The club will arrange to bring the officials to the boat for clearance formalities. Weekend and late arrivals should be avoided as an overtime charge applies to out-of-hours formalities. Going ashore anywhere in Fiji before clearing in first at one of the ports of entry is strictly prohibited. Yachts arriving from overseas must complete an advance notification form (C2-C) 48 hours before ETA. The form can be downloaded from the customs website https://www.frcs.org.fj and emailed, with a photo of the boat and a scan of the captain’s passport, to yachtsreport@frcs.org.fj. A cruising permit must be obtained from the appropriate authority after the clearing-in formalities have been completed.

Because a passage to Fiji should be avoided during the cyclone season, the alternative to a direct passage, as described above, is to sail first to New Zealand, which can be done earlier in the year, and continue to Fiji in late April or May. This detour has the prospect of better winds on the passage to New Zealand and a better slant through the SE trades on the subsequent leg to Fiji.

• PS94 New South Wales to Vanuatu

BEST TIME: | June |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Pacific Crossing Guide, South Pacific Anchorages. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS94A |  |  |  |  |
Sydney 33°49.5’S, 151°17.0’E | Sydney E 33°51.0’S, 151°21.5’E |  |  |  |
Coffs Harbour | Coffs Harbour E | New Cal S |  |  |
30°18.5’S, 153°09.0’E | 30°18.5’S, 153°10.0’E | 23°10.0’S, 166°56.0’E Mare S 21°43.5’S, 168°12.0’E |  |  |
|  | Tanna SE 19°41.0’S, 169°27.5’E | Resolution NE 19°30.2’S, 169°29.9’E | Port Resolution 19°31.0’S, 169°29.0’E | 1309/1118
Route PS94B |  |  |  |  |
Sydney | Sydney E |  |  |  |
Coffs Harbour | Coffs Harbour E | New Cal S |  |  |
|  | Havannah E 22°18.0’S, 167°05.0’E Lifou SW 21°04.0’S, 167°32.0’E |  |  |
|  | Efate SW | Port Vila W | Port Vila | 1381/1190
|  | 17°47.2’S, 168°13.0’E | 17°44.6’S, 168°16.8’E | 17°44.3’S, 168°18.5’E |

Because the islands of New Caledonia straddle most direct routes to Vanuatu, a stop in Noumea could be included in the passage plan. This is probably the easiest way to reach Vanuatu and directions for it are similar to those for route PS92.

There are two alternative routes, one for boats bound for the island of Tanna (PS94A), while route PS94B outlines a direct course for the capital Port Vila. The direct route from either Sydney or Coffs Harbour to Tanna bypasses New Caledonia, passing south of both the main island and Mare. From there, the route continues to make landfall south of Tanna. The best anchorage is at Port Resolution, on the east coast, where the chieftain of the nearby village has set up a yacht club to welcome visiting sailors. To complete formalities, the official port of entry is at Lenakel, on the west coast of Tanna, which can be reached overland. The main attraction of Port Resolution is the nearby live Yasur volcano, which is under the guardianship of the Yakel clan, whose traditional village is close to this active volcano.

After having cleared the south of New Caledonia, route PS94B turns north and passes between the islands of Mare and Lifou. It then continues due north in the lee of Tanna and Erromango Islands and makes landfall off Pango Point in the approaches to Port Vila. The well-sheltered port fronting the Vanuatu capital has a small marina managed by Yachting World, a local company looking after the needs of visiting sailors. Boats arriving from overseas are required to give 24 hours prior notice of arrival in Vanuatu. The notice must list details of boat, captain, crew, port of arrival and ETA. Email to CustomsBorder@vanuatu.gov.vu.

• PS95 Westbound from Southern Australia

BEST TIME: | December to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May (South Indian Ocean) |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Melbourne 37°50.8’S, 144°54.3’E | Melbourne SE 37°52.4’S, 144°55.6’E | West Channel N 38°11.5’S, 144°46.0’E West Channel S 38°18.0’S, 144°38.0’E Cape Otway S 39°00.0’S, 143°30.0’E Cape Leeuwin 35°24.0’S, 114°45.9’E |  |  |
|  | Naturaliste W | Fremantle W | Fremantle | 1704
|  | 33°32.0’S, 114°42.0’E | 32°01.2’S, 115°37.0’E | 32 °03.3’S, 115°44.0’E |

Sailors who wish to reach the South Indian Ocean by a more direct route that avoids going over the top of Australia may consider a route that takes them across the Great Australian Bight. It is a route that is rarely sailed by cruising boats, and for a very good reason: the prevailing westerly winds can be an almost insurmountable obstacle. However, there is a narrow window of better conditions at the height of summer, between December and February, when spells of SE winds can occur from time to time. The shortest route leads through the Bass Strait, from where the best course should be sailed, taking advantage of existing weather conditions. There are a few stopping opportunities en route, but if conditions are right, it is best not to stop. One major advantage of this route is that by reaching Fremantle in February or possibly March, which is one or two months before the end of the cyclone season, one will be able to leave Australia sooner for the tropical islands and have more time to explore the various island groups in the South Indian Ocean than if arriving via the Torres Strait.

The route outlined here is meant to be sailed entirely offshore, although it is doubtful that this would have much appeal to cruising sailors. However, as mentioned above, the window of favourable winds is limited and those who intend to make this passage should be prepared to take advantage of favourable conditions whenever they occur. On arrival in Fremantle, boats are normally directed to the boarding station at the Fremantle Sailing Club. This is situated just south of the main Fremantle Harbour.

PS100 • Routes from Queensland

• | PS101 | Queensland to New Zealand | 464
• | PS102 | Queensland to New Caledonia | 465
• | PS103 | Queensland to Vanuatu | 466
• | PS104 | Queensland to Fiji | 467
• | PS105 | Queensland to Solomon Islands | 469
• | PS106 | North Queensland to Papua New Guinea | 470
• | PS107 | North Queensland to Torres Strait | 471

A tropical climate, the Great Barrier Reef and almost unlimited cruising opportunities have turned Queensland into a favourite destination not only among foreign sailors but also Australian ones. The one major disadvantage is the tropical cyclone season, which affects both Queensland and the surrounding region, with the exception of Papua New Guinea north of approximately latitude 10ºS. The critical period is December to the end of March when cruising should be kept to a minimum and one should always be within easy reach of a safe harbour. From May onwards the weather is generally good, with strong and steady SE trade winds. In July and August particularly, these trade winds can be quite strong, and so it is recommended that, especially in winter, the Queensland coast should be cruised from south to north.

Although most routes in this section are north or westbound, and thus benefit from the prevailing winds, those who intend to sail east across the Coral Sea should plan to do so either before or after the onset of the SE trade winds, which blow most consistently between May and September. Usually in April the trade winds are not yet fully established and eastbound passages are easier to accomplish. Passages after the end of October should be avoided because of the danger of early cyclones. The period when these tropical storms occur in the Coral Sea should be treated with caution as extra-seasonal cyclones have been recorded in June, July and September.

PS100 Routes from Queensland

• PS101 Queensland to New Zealand

BEST TIME: | May to June, October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P6 Voyages from Australia |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Coastal Cruising Handbook of the Royal Arakana Yacht Club, Destination New Zealand. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Mackay X 21°06.7’S, 149°13.5’E | Mackay NE 21°06.2’S, 149°14.3’E | Mackay E 21°07.0’S, 149°17.0’E Hixson S 22°27.5’S, 152°44.8’E |  |  | 1583
Bundaberg X 24°46.0’S, 152°22.8’E | Bundaberg River 24°45.2’S, 152°24.2’E | Curtis Channel E 24°17.5’S, 153°07.0’E |  |  | 1337
Brisbane X 27°26.5’S, 153°06.3’E | Brisbane River 27°21.0’S, 153°11.0’E | North East Channel N 27°00.0’S, 153°22.0’E [Middleton] 29°26.7’S, 159°04.8’E Moreton N 26°56.3’S, 153°30.0’E |  |  | 1225
|  | Three Kings N |  |  |
|  | 33°59.0’S, 172°09.0’E |  |  |
|  | North Cape 34°18.5’S, 173°03.0’E | Bay N 35°06.0’S, 174°12.6’E | Opua X 35°18.7’S, 174°07.5’E |

As passages during the cyclone season are not recommended and those in the middle of winter also have few attractions, the best time seems to be between those two seasons. In early May the danger of cyclones is acceptably low, the weather is not yet cold and the SE trade winds have not reached their mid-winter strength. The passage can be just as pleasant at the end of winter, in late October, when SW gales are also less frequent.

The routes from Mackay and Bundaberg pass close to Middleton Reef (29º26.7’S, 159º04.8’E) and Elizabeth Reef (29º56.0’S, 159º02.0’E). Both sets of coordinates are approximate and should not be relied on for accuracy. Both reefs have an anchorage; the one in the lee of Elizabeth Reef is on its NE side, whereas Middleton has a sheltered anchorage on the NW side called the Sound. In unsettled weather the temptation to stop should be resisted and the reefs given a wide berth as they have claimed many ships in the past. Both reefs are protected nature reserves.

Passages starting from Brisbane should reach the open sea north of Moreton Island, as the Rous (South) Channel, south of the island, should not be used in strong easterly winds. Landfall is made north of the Three Kings, a group of rocks NW of Cape Reinga. From there, the route continues parallel to the coast to the entrance into the Bay of Islands. Boats bound for Opua should contact customs before they make landfall and follow instructions to the designated quarantine dock. This is located at the northern end of the outer breakwater of Opua Marina. Opua is a convenient place to clear into New Zealand even for those who intend to continue to ports lying further south. All yachts arriving from overseas must contact the authorities 48 hours prior to their ETA, to arrange clearance on arrival. Email yachtreport@border.gov.au.

• PS102 Queensland to New Caledonia

BEST TIME: | June, September to October |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising Guide to New Caledonia, South Pacific Anchorages. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS102A |  |  |  |  |
Bundaberg X 24°46.0’S, 152 °22.8’E | Bundaberg River 24°45.2’S, 152°24.2’E | Curtis Channel E 24°17.5’S, 153°07.0’E |  |  | 794
Brisbane X 27°26.5’S, 153°06.3’E | Brisbane River 27°21.0’S, 153°11.0’E | North East Channel N 27°0.0’S, 153°22.0’E Moreton N 26°56.3’S, 153°30.0’E |  |  | 797
|  | Dumbea SW 22°24.0’S, 166°12.0’E | Dumbea Pass 22°21.2’S, 166°15.2’E | Noumea X 22°17.3’S, 166°26.2’E |
Route PS102B |  |  |  |  |
Mackay X 21°06.7’S, 149°13.5’E | Mackay NE 21°06.2’S, 149°14.3’E | Mackay E 21°07.0’S, 149°17.0’E Hixson S 22°27.5’S, 152°44.8’E Bellona S 22°10.0’S, 159°30.0’E |  |  |
|  | Dumbea SW | Dumbea Pass | Noumea X | 975

This can be a difficult passage for those starting from ports north of Sandy Cape because of the certainty of encountering contrary winds for at least part of the voyage. It may be worth waiting for a spell of westerly winds, which at least will ensure a speedy start. Such winds are normally generated by fronts moving up from the south and the weather associated with them is rarely pleasant. Passages starting from further south should benefit from a better sailing angle across the prevailing SE or E winds. Because of the high proportion of easterly winds in winter, it is better to plan this passage for the intermediate season. Similarly, because of the risk of cyclones in the Coral Sea, this passage should not be undertaken after the middle of November or before the end of April.

A direct offshore route can be sailed from Brisbane or Bundaberg but those starting from Mackay, or further north, will need to set a course that clears the area of reefs west of New Caledonia. Landfall is made outside the Dumbea Pass, which leads to the capital Noumea. Approaches into Noumea are difficult at night and should not be attempted. If Noumea cannot be reached in daylight it is recommended to anchor for the night and enter the port the following morning. Arriving boats should contact Port Moselle on channel 67 to arrange a berth at the visitors’ dock. The marina will contact customs and immigration for clearance. There are four marinas in the Noumea area, but Port Moselle is the most convenient. Yachting facilities are very good thanks to an active local sailing community.

• PS103 Queensland to Vanuatu

BEST TIME: | June, September to October |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Pacific Crossing Guide, South Pacific Anchorages. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS103A |  |  |  |  |
Mackay X 21°06.7’S, 149°13.5’E | Mackay NE 21°06.2’S, 149°14.3’E | Mackay E 21°07.0’S, 149°17.0’E Hixson S 22°27.5’S, 152°44.8’E |  |  |
Bundaberg X 24°46.0’S, 152 °22.8’E | Bundaberg River 24°45.2’S, 152°24.2’E | Curtis Channel E 24°17.5’S, 153°7.0’E |  |  |
|  | Bellona S |  |  |
|  | 22°10.0’S, 159°30.0’E Seamounts S 21°28.0’S, 160°45.0’E Landsdowne SE 20°40.0’S, 161°30.0’E Grand Passage W 18°56.0’S, 162°55.0’E Grand Passage E 18°40.0’S, 163°22.0’E |  |  |
|  | Efate W | Port Vila W | Port Vila | 1181/ 1017
|  | 17°45.5’S, 168°10.0’E | 17°44.6’S, 168°16.8’E | 17°44.3’S, 168°18.5’E |
Route PS103B |  |  |  |  |
Brisbane X 27°26.5’S, 153°06.3’E | Brisbane River 27°21.0’S, 153°11.0’E | North East Channel N 27°00.0’S, 153°22.0’E Moreton N 26°56.3’S, 153°30.0’E |  |  |
|  | [Boulari SW 22°34.3’S, 166°20.7’E Havannah E] 22°18.0’S, 167°05.0’E Mare S 21°43.5’S, 168°12.0’E | Boulari Pass 22°30.3’S, 166°26.1’E | Noumea X 22 °17.3’S, 166°26.2’E | 804
|  | Tanna SE 19°41.0’S, 169°27.5’E | Resolution NE 19°30.2’S, 169°29.9’E | Port Resolution 19°31.0’S, 169°29.0’E | 1054
|  | New Cal S 23°10.0’S, 166°56.0’E Mare S |  |  |
|  | Tanna SE | Resolution NE | Port Resolution | 1067

With the bulk of New Caledonia lying astride direct routes from South Queensland, there are two radically different ways to reach ports in Vanuatu. Passages starting from ports north of Sandy Cape can sail a shorter route that keeps clear of the various reefs NW of New Caledonia, and continues to Port Vila north of New Caledonia. Passages starting from Brisbane should keep south of New Caledonia as well as Mare Island to reach their desired destination.

Route PS103A needs to avoid the extensive Bellona and Landsdowne Reefs, and also the area of seamounts between the two, where rough seas can be encountered during strong winds. The route then turns NE to pass through the Grand Passage. Landfall at Efate Island is made west of Devils Point from where Mele Bay is crossed to Port Vila. The well-sheltered port fronting the Vanuatu capital has a small marina managed by Yachting World, a local company looking after the needs of visiting sailors. Arriving boats should go directly to the quarantine area marked by a yellow buoy and contact the authorities on channel 16.

Boats sailing route PS103B have the option of breaking the passage in Noumea and resuming it by exiting through the Havannah Pass to continue the voyage to Tanna Island. Those who are not interested in this option should sail a course that stays south of both New Caledonia and Mare Islands. Landfall is made south of Tanna. The best anchorage is at Port Resolution, on the east coast, where the chieftain of the nearby village has set up a yacht club to welcome visiting sailors. To complete formalities, the official port of entry is at Lenakel, on the west coast of Tanna, which can be reached overland. The main attraction of Port Resolution is the nearby live Yasur volcano, which is under the guardianship of the Yakel clan, whose traditional village is at the foot of this active volcano.

Boats arriving from overseas are required to give 24 hours prior notice of arrival in Vanuatu. The notice must list details of boat, captain, crew, port of arrival and ETA. Email to CustomsBorder@vanuatu.gov.vu.

• PS104 Queensland to Fiji

BEST TIME: | June |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P10 Voyages from Australia |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Pacific Crossing Guide, South Pacific Anchorages. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS104A |  |  |  |  |
Mackay X 21°06.7’S, 149°13.5’E | Mackay NE 21°06.2’S, 149°14.3’E | Mackay E 21°07.0’S, 149°17.0’E Hixson S 22°27.5’S, 152°44.8’E |  |  |
Bundaberg X 24°46.0’S, 152 °22.8’E | Bundaberg River 24°45.2’S, 152°24.2’E | Curtis Channel E 24°17.5’S, 153°07.0’E [Bellona S 22°10.0’S, 159°30.0’E |  |  |
|  | Dumbea SW 22°24.0’S, 166°12.0’E Havannah E 22°18.0’S, 167°05.0’E Mare S] 21°43.5’S, 168°12.0’E | Dumbea Pass 22°21.2’S, 166°15.2’E | Noumea X 22°17.3’S, 166°26.2’E | 975/787
|  | New Cal S |  |  |
|  | 23°10.0’S, 166°56.0’E Durand S 22°15.0’S, 168°50.0’E Navula W 17°56.3’S, 177°09.3’E Navula E 17°55.5’S, 177°13.3’E Tavarua E 17°50.4’S, 177°14.2’E |  |  |
|  | Denarau SW 17°46.5’S, 177°18.5’E Lautoka SW 17°38.7’S, 177°21.2’E Beqa W 18°19.2’S, 177°59.0’E | Denarau W 17°46.2’S, 177°21.3’E Lautoka W 17°36.5’S, 177°26.2E | Denarau 17°46.3’S, 177°23.2’E Lautoka X 17°36.5’S, 177°26.3’W | 1677/1484 1688/1495
|  | Beqa E 18°18.0’S, 178°09.0’E | Suva S 18°12.0’S, 178°23.2’E | Suva 18°08.0’S, 178°24.0’E | 1711/1524
|  | Vatulele S 18°41.5’S, 177°39.0’E |  |  |
|  | Kandavu N 18°30.0’S, 178°18.0’E | Suva S | Suva | 1718/1530
Route PS104B |  |  |  |  |
Brisbane X 27°26.5’S, 153°06.3’E | Brisbane River 27°21.0’S, 153°11.0’E | North East Channel N 27°00.0’S, 153°22.0’E Moreton N 26°56.3’S, 153°30.0’E |  |  |
|  | [Boulari SW 22°34.3’S, 166°20.7’E Havannah E Mare S] | Boulari Pass 22°30.3’S, 166°26.1’E | Noumea X |   803
|  | New Cal S |  |  |
|  | Durand S Navula W Navula E Tavarua E |  |  |
|  | Denarau SW | Denarau W | Denarau | 1474
|  | Lautoka SW Beqa W | Lautoka W | Lautoka X | 1485
|  | Beqa E | Suva S | Suva | 1514
|  | Vatulele S |  |  |
|  | Kandavu N | Suva S | Suva | 1520

Sailing a direct route from Queensland to Fiji can be a difficult undertaking because of both contrary winds and current. The most feasible way to reach Fiji is by a detour to the south where better winds might be found to make the required easting, as described in route PS93. However, such an approach entails a considerable detour, which may have to dip as far south as 30ºS, or even further to find favourable winds. The only attraction of the more direct route is that it is shorter. Passages starting from South Queensland will benefit from a better wind angle and having a boat that goes well to windward would be a distinct advantage. One fallback option for anyone sailing either of the two routes outlined above is to make an intermediate stop in New Caledonia to wait for a favourable forecast, or at least have a break before resuming the voyage.

Boats on route PS104A should be able to sail south of New Caledonia before tackling the rest of the passage to Fiji. The waypoints for the option of a stop in Noumea have been listed should that need arise, in which case the Dumbea Pass would be the most convenient to reach Noumea. Those sailing route PS104B would have the same option and should use the Boulari Pass if such a detour became preferable or actually unavoidable.

Depending on weather conditions and the windward performance of the boat in question, the more direct route passing close to New Caledonia may be sailed. Although shorter, such a route may not necessarily be easier as there is a higher chance of encountering contrary winds on the subsequent leg between New Caledonia and Fiji. Having passed south of New Caledonia, the direct route passes south of Durand Reef, where it is reported that seas break in strong winds and that area should therefore be avoided. Boats bound for ports on the west coast of Viti Levu should make a landfall just south of the entrance into the Navula Passage. A buoyed channel leads north from here to Denarau Marina and the commercial port of Lautoka. The latter is an official port of entry but entry formalities at Denarau can be completed with the assistance of the marina.

Boats bound for the capital Suva should continue east to pass north of Vatulele Island and use the Beqa Channel, north of the island of that name, to reach Suva. The Daveta Levu Passage leads into Suva Harbour, whose approaches are well-buoyed and lit, and there are clear range markers making it easy to enter this harbour even at night. Port control should be contacted on channel 16, and arriving boats are usually directed to the quarantine anchorage near the Royal Suva Yacht Club. In strong winds it may be preferable to approach Suva from SW by using the Kandavu Passage, passing south of both Vatulele and Beqa Islands, as outlined above. Weekend and late arrivals should be avoided as an overtime charge applies to out-of-hours formalities. Going ashore anywhere in Fiji before clearing in first at one of the ports of entry is strictly prohibited. Yachts arriving from overseas must complete an advance notification form (C2-C) 48 hours before ETA.

The form can be downloaded from the customs website https://www.frcs.org.fj and emailed, with a photo of the boat and a scan of the captain’s passport, to yachtsreport@frcs.org.fj. A cruising permit must be obtained from the appropriate authority after the clearing-in formalities have been completed.

• PS105 Queensland to Solomon Islands

BEST TIME:
June, September to October

TROPICAL STORMS:
November to April

CHARTS:
BA 4060, US 60

CRUISING GUIDES:
Solomon Islands Cruising Guide, South Pacific Anchorages.

WAYPOINTS:
Start
Departure
Intermediate
Landfall
Arrival
Distance

Route PS105A

Brisbane X 27°26.5’S, 153°06.3’E
Brisbane River 27°21.0’S, 153°11.0’E
North East Channel N 27°00.0’S, 153°22.0’E Moreton N 26°56.3’S, 153°30.0’E [Cato Reef E] 23°16.0’S, 155°32.0’E

Bundaberg X 24°46.0’S, 152 °22.8’E
Bundaberg River 24°45.2’S, 152°24.2’E
Curtis Channel E 24°17.5’S, 153°07.0’E

[Wreck Reef S] 22°20.0’S, 155°33.0’E [Kenn Reef S] 21°20.0’S, 155°52.0’E

Chesterfield W

19°35.0’S, 157°59.0’E Chesterfield N 18°38.0’S, 158°15.0’E Rennell S 11°55.0’S, 160°45.0’E Guadalcanal S 10°12.0’S, 160°49.0’E Guadalcanal SE 9°47.0’S, 161°01.0’E

Guadalcanal NE 9°22.0’S, 160°22.5’E
Honiara NE 9°22.5’S, 160°00.5’E
Honiara 9°25.8’S, 159°57.8’E
1233/1138

Route PS105B

Cairns 16°54.3’S, 145°47.3’E
Cairns N 16°46.5’S, 145°52.0’E
Grafton Passage W 16°50.5’S, 146°02.0’E Grafton Passage E 16°38.2’S, 146°13.5’E Moore Reefs S 15°34.0’S, 149°37.5’E Guadalcanal S Guadalcanal SE

Guadalcanal NE
Honiara NE
Honiara
1070

Although this passage can be made at any time outside of the cyclone season, the months of July and August ought to be avoided too as this is the time when the SE trade winds attain their peak and sailing conditions can be quite rough. Because of the numerous reefs that have to be avoided in the Coral Sea, there are various routes that leave from the Australian coast. Passages on route PS105A starting from Bundaberg need to avoid two dangerous reef areas soon after leaving, and should lay a course that passes south of both Wreck and Kenn Reefs. For those on passage from Brisbane, a safe course would pass south of Cato Reef and the area surrounding it. The next area to be avoided is the Chesterfield Islands, which are surrounded by a large reef and should be left by both routes to starboard to pass safely on their west side. Having passed the northern extremity of that area, a course should be set to pass south of Rennell Island. With its neighbour Bellona, both belong to the Solomon Islands, but stand apart by having a Polynesian population. As they do not have an official port of entry, stopping is not permitted before having cleared in first at the capital Honiara. Having passed Rennell, landfall is made south of Guadalcanal Island, from where its east coast is followed around to Honiara. Visiting yachts are advised to anchor near the Point Cruz Yacht Club and go ashore to contact the relevant officials. Formalities are completed at the various offices in the commercial harbour area.

Route PS105B, originating in Cairns, in North Queensland, will reach open water through the Grafton Passage, from where a course should be set to pass north of the Moore Reefs and also north of Bellona Island. As described above, landfall can be made south of Guadalcanal, but if that is too difficult because of the wind direction, landfall can be made as easily north of the island and Honiara approached from that direction.

• PS106 North Queensland to Papua New Guinea

BEST TIME: | June, September to October |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising the Coral Coast. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route PS106A |  |  |  |  |
Cairns 16°54.3’S, 145°47.3’E | Cairns N 16°46.5’S, 145°52.0’E | Grafton Passage W 16°50.5’S, 146°02.0’E Grafton Passage E 16°38.2’S, 146°13.5’E Bougainville E 15°30.0’S, 147°21.0’E Papua SE 10°54.0’S, 150°21.2’E |  |  |
|  | China Strait S 10°36.0’S, 150°37.2’E |  | Samarai X 10°36.7’S, 150°39.6’E | 483
Route PS106B |  |  |  |  |
Cairns | Cairns N | One Half 14°20.0’S, 145°26.0’E |  |  |
|  | Basilisk Passage SW 9°34.6’S, 147°04.5’E | Basilisk Passage NE 9°32.0’S, 147°08.0’E | Port Moresby 9°28.7’S, 147°08.6’E | 467
Route PS106C |  |  |  |  |
Cairns | Cairns N | Grafton Passage W Grafton Passage E Osprey W 13°51.0’S, 146°15.0’E |  |  |
|  | Basilisk Passage SW | Basilisk Passage NE | Port Moresby | 472

There are two main routes crossing the Coral Sea from Northern Queensland to Papua New Guinea, one that goes direct to the capital Port Moresby, the other to Samarai, a small island off the SE extremity of New Guinea. The latter route is taken by those who wish to cruise the outer islands, whereas the former is often sailed by boats heading for the Torres Strait and beyond. Because Port Moresby is downwind of all other possible destinations, it would be a mistake to go there first as it can be very tough sailing against the boisterous SE trades to reach the smaller islands east of New Guinea. If the destination is one of those islands, Samarai provides a more convenient port of entry.

The route to Samarai can leave the Great Barrier Reef by several passes, but the Grafton Passage, just outside Cairns, is the most convenient. Because of the direction of the prevailing winds, the more northerly the starting point of this passage, the closer it will be to the wind. As winter passages across the Coral Sea can be quite rough, this is an aspect that should be considered when planning this route. The strong winds coupled with the west-setting current make it necessary to do some easting whenever the winds permit this.

Having left Cairns and gained the open sea through the Grafton Passage, an initial course is set to pass east of Bougainville Reef. The route then crosses the Coral Sea to make landfall SW of Brumer Island, off the Papuan coast. Sufficient time should be allowed to be able to cover the remaining 30 miles to Samarai in daylight, where entry formalities into Papua New Guinea can be completed. If there is not enough time to reach Samarai in daylight, it is safer to anchor off the mainland coast for the night. A good anchorage can be found behind Deirina Island, close to the China Strait, which leads to Samarai. The strait is swept by strong tidal currents and the port of Samarai lies on the west coast of the island of the same name. Formalities are completed in the commercial harbour.

For the direct passage to Port Moresby it is probably better to stay inside the Great Barrier Reef until almost due south of Port Moresby. Cairns is the last port in Queensland where exit formalities can be completed, and although boats are allowed to day-sail inside the Great Barrier Reef after having cleared out of Australia, landing either along the coast or on one of the offlying islands is prohibited. The route passes Cooktown and the authorities in Cairns may be persuaded to allow a brief stop to be made at that historic town. Cooktown is located at the mouth of the Endeavour River, where James Cook beached his ship, the Endeavour, for repairs in 1770 after it had been seriously damaged running aground while navigating inside the Great Barrier Reef.

Having passed Cooktown, the route winds its way past Lizard Island and exits the Great Barrier Reef through the One and a Half Mile Opening. From outside the pass, the route is free of any dangers all the way to Port Moresby. Landfall is made at the entrance into the Basilisk Pass, which leads into Port Moresby. Boats should proceed to the Royal Papua Yacht Club, where visiting yachts sometimes find docking space. The captain should then visit the various offices to complete formalities.

Those who wish to make a speedier passage to Port Moresby should use the Grafton Passage, which gives immediate access to the open sea (PS106C). From outside the passage, a course should be set to pass west of Osprey and Shark Reefs, and continue to Port Moresby. All vessels are required to give notice of arrival no later than 48 hours before ETA to NCC@customs.gov.pg with details of boat, captain, crew, last four ports and intended port of arrival. Everyone must also have a visa, which should be obtained online in advance.

• PS107 North Queensland to Torres Strait

BEST TIME: | June, September to October |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | P41a Voyages to South East Asia |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Cruising the Coral Coast. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Cairns 16°54.3’S, 145°47.3’E | Cairns N 16°46.5’S, 145°52.0’E | [Cooktown X] 15°27.5’S, 145°15.0’E One Half 14°20.0’S, 145°26.0’E Pandora 10°07.0’S, 145°00.0’E |  |  |
|  | Bligh | Bramble N | Thursday Island X | 641
|  | 9°11.3’S, 144°18.0’E | 9°04.5’S, 143°52.7’E | 10°35.2’S, 142°13.2’E |

There are two alternatives to reach the Torres Strait from North Queensland, either by an inshore route that keeps close to the coast and stays inside the Great Barrier Reef or an offshore route that reaches the Torres Strait through one of the shipping channels. The inside route is well buoyed, so it can be done nonstop, and even night sailing, although difficult, is not impossible. However, most yachts sail this route in day hops as there are plenty of anchorages or small ports in which to stop for the night. Those who have not cleared out of Australia and plan to stop at Thursday Island to complete the necessary formalities there are free to stop anywhere en route.

The inshore route from Cairns goes almost due north past Cooktown to Cape Flattery, where it turns NW. Cooktown makes an interesting stop as it was there that Captain James Cook stopped for repairs to his ship, the Endeavour, in 1770 after it had been damaged running aground while navigating inside the Great Barrier Reef. Another interesting stop nearby is Lizard Island, now a nature reserve, named by Captain Cook after its inhabitants. From there, the inside route turns NW, passing Cape Melville to finally reach Cape York and the Torres Strait.

Lizard Island is also the point where those who prefer to go offshore can reach the open sea via one of the many passes. From outside the One and a Half Mile Opening, north of Lizard Island, the route goes almost due north, passing halfway between Eastern Fields and Ashmore Reef. The course is then altered for Bramble Cay in Bligh Entrance, the gateway into the Torres Strait. From there, the well-marked Great North East Channel runs in a SW direction for some 130 miles to the Prince of Wales Channel, which finally opens into the Arafura Sea and the Indian Ocean.

On arrival at Thursday Island, port control should be contacted on channel 16 during office hours. Cruising boats are normally directed to the customs dock, or to one of the nearby anchorages if the winds are too strong to come alongside. Even stricter quarantine regulations apply here than in the rest of Australia, and certain fresh food items will be confiscated. Torres Strait is a convenient place for the continuation of the voyage to either Northern Australia (IS11) or Indonesia (IS13).

WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE NORTH INDIAN OCEAN

The winds and weather of the entire Indian Ocean are dominated by the monsoons, which although affecting primarily the northern half of the ocean, also have a bearing on the weather pattern of the tropical South Indian Ocean. The NE monsoon prevails when the sun has a southern declination and the SW monsoon when the sun’s declination is north.

The northeast monsoon

A predominantly NE wind blows during the winter months in the North Indian Ocean, the Bay of Bengal and the Arabian Sea. The wind is very steady and constant over most parts of the North Indian Ocean, blowing at an average 10–15 knots, its strength diminishing towards the equator. On rare occasions the monsoon can reach gale force, but for most of the time sailing conditions can be described as being as near perfect as possible. There are two areas in which the monsoon is less reliable and the winds more variable. In the Arabian Sea, north of latitude 20ºN, the weather pattern is sometimes affected by the passage of depressions to the north of the area. The other area lies to the SE of Sri Lanka, between latitude 5ºN and the equator, where winds are less constant in strength and direction, the normal direction of the wind being northerly. Further east, in the Malacca Strait, the monsoon is also less pronounced than elsewhere.

The NE monsoon lasts from November to March, beginning earlier in the northern part of the region where it is well established by the middle of November. Towards the equator it does not arrive in full strength until December. The winter monsoon is preceded and followed by a transitional period as it is replaced by the SW monsoon and vice versa. This transitional period coincides with the movement across the region of the Intertropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ), which separates the air masses of the northern and southern hemispheres. The ITCZ is most active in April to May and October to November, which are also the months when most cyclonic storms occur over the North Indian Ocean. During this transitional period the weather is often squally and the winds can reach gale force in these squalls. Otherwise this period can be compared to the doldrums of other oceans, with light winds and calms, which are gradually replaced by the coming monsoon. This doldrums belt is not as distinctly defined as in the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.

The southwest monsoon

The heating of the Asian landmass during the summer months creates a large area of low pressure over the NW part of the Indian subcontinent. This causes the SE trade wind of the South Indian Ocean to be drawn across the equator where it joins the general movement of air that flows in an anticlockwise direction around the area of low pressure lying over India. This is the SW monsoon, which is felt from June to September in the same areas as its NE counterpart. The SW monsoon has consistent winds blowing at an average 20 knots for long periods and frequently reaching gale force. The winds diminish gradually in strength during August, and by September both the strength of the wind and its direction become less constant. In October and November, the winds are often light until the arrival of the NE monsoon. The weather during the SW monsoon is overcast and often unsettled with heavy rainfall.

Tropical storms

The North Indian Ocean cyclone season has no official bounds, but cyclones tend to form between April and December, with two peaks in activity in May and November. Cyclones occur in the Arabian Sea and the Bay of Bengal and the two periods of the year when their frequency reaches a maximum coincide with the transitional periods between the two monsoons. The first period of cyclonic activity is at the beginning of the SW monsoon from late May to the middle of June. The second period coincides with the onset of the NE monsoon and lasts from the end of October to the second half of November. Most of these storms form in the vicinity of the ITCZ when it is situated between latitudes 5ºN and 15ºN.

About 80 tropical storms form around the globe in a year, and the average annual frequency of cyclones in the North India Ocean (Bay of Bengal and Arabian Sea) is about 5 such storms. There is a higher frequency in the Bay of Bengal than in the Arabian Sea, the ratio being 4:1. The monthly frequency of tropical cyclones in the North Indian Ocean has a bi-modal characteristic, with a primary peak in November and secondary peak in May. The months of May–June and October–November are known to produce cyclones of severe intensity. Tropical cyclones developing during the monsoon months (July to September) are generally not so intense.

Indian Ocean currents – NE monsoon

In the Arabian Sea, the cyclone season is from May to July and from September to December. In the Bay of Bengal, the cyclone season lasts from April to July, and from October to December. Most of the storms that occur in May and June are bred in the Arabian Sea, from where they move either in a NW and W direction, or in a northerly direction recurving towards the NE and the coast. Some of the cyclones that form in the Bay of Bengal in October and November move westward across South India into the Arabian Sea. Both in the Arabian Sea and the Bay of Bengal, October has the highest frequency of cyclones. Their frequency decreases in November and they are rare in December and January, none having been recorded in February and March. After the middle of April the likelihood of a cyclone begins to increase.

The most powerful cyclone ever recorded in the Arabian Sea was Cyclone Gonu, which occurred on 1 June 2007. It caused many fatalities and widespread damage in Oman and the United Arab Emirates. The worst ever tropical storm recorded in the Bay of Bengal was Cyclone Sidr, which formed on 12 November 2007. The worst damage was caused in Bangladesh where an estimated 10,000 people lost their lives. Cyclone Chapala, which occurred in early November 2015, was of a similar intensity and caused widespread devastation in Yemen and Somalia.

In recent years the severity and destructive power of the cyclones affecting the North Indian Ocean has intensified. The 2021 cyclone season, which was still ongoing at the time of this book going to press, had already recorded two extremely severe cyclones, Tauktae and Yaas in May. The 2020 season recorded five cyclones, with four of them of severe intensity: Amphan in May, and Gafi, Nirvar and Burevi, all occurring in late November.

The 2019 season was one of the most active on record with seven cyclones, six of them intensifying to very severe cyclonic storms. Pabuk occurred on 4 January becoming the earliest cyclone of the North Indian Ocean on record. Originally a tropical storm that formed over the South China Sea on January 1, Pabuk entered the Gulf of Thailand. Shortly afterward, Pabuk made landfall over southern Thailand on January 4 and crossed into the Andaman Sea. The second cyclone of the season, extremely severe Cyclone Fani, occurred in early May, while Cyclone Kyarr occurred in late October, being two of the strongest cyclones recorded in the Bay of Bengal. The 2020 season was the costliest season in recorded history, largely due to Super Cyclone Amphan, which occurred in May and devastated parts of India ad Sri Lanka.

In recent years several cyclones (Chapala and Megh in November 2015, Sadar in May 2018) have reached as far west as the Gulf of Aden affecting northern Somalia, southern Yemen and even Djibouti.

Regional winds

A violent storm that affects the Strait of Malacca is known as a sumatra and is named after the island that generates these storms. The warning is very short compared to other depression-like weather phenomena, and many mariners have been caught out by it. Approximately one hour before it arrives, a very distinctive low dark cumulonimbus-type cloud can be seen over the western horizon. It is followed by strong gusts of westerly winds of 30 to 40 knots, which eventually die out about two hours later. There is a heavy downpour as well as vivid lightning towards the closing stages of the storm.

During the SW monsoon, a strong local land breeze called the kharif blows for up to 30 miles off the African coast. Reinforcing the SW wind, it can reach gale force during the night and is very dry, loaded with dust and sand off Africa. In a similar fashion, a strong N or NW wind called the belat blows off the Arabian coast from December to March. Again it starts at night, is loaded with dust and sand and can reach 30 knots in some coastal areas. There is sometimes poor visibility due to haze or mist, especially along the Arabian coast during the SW monsoon. Very rarely cyclones stray with little warning from the Arabian Sea into the Gulf of Aden. The dangerous months are June and October.

Currents

Due to the monsoons, the currents of the North Indian Ocean follow a seasonal pattern and reverse their direction under their influence. The Northeast Monsoon Current occurs during the NE monsoon and reaches its peak in February. It is located between the equator and latitude 6ºN and has a westward set. Its counterpart is the Southwest Monsoon Current, which occurs from May to September and is considered to be a continuation of the Somali Current. This current can attain very high rates, especially off the coast of Somalia and in the vicinity of Socotra, where some of the strongest sets in the world have been recorded, with rates of up to 7 knots. Although the initial set is NE, the current becomes east in the open waters of the Arabian Sea until it reaches the landmass of India and turns SE.

At the time of the NE monsoon, the Somali Current flows SW along the African coast as far as the equator, where it meets the north-flowing East Africa Coast Current. In December and January, the current turns east and becomes the Equatorial Countercurrent. The Equatorial Countercurrent is the only current of the North Indian Ocean that does not reverse its direction as a result of the monsoons. However, its strength is reinforced during the transitional periods between the two monsoons. It sets east throughout the year and lies to the north of the west-setting Equatorial Current. The Equatorial Countercurrent reaches its southern limit in February, at the height of the NE monsoon, when it sometimes flows very close to the Northeast Monsoon Current. This means that by moving slightly to the north or south, it is possible to shift from a west-setting to an east-setting current. The southern limit of this current is always south of the equator, regardless of season.

Tsunamis

Earthquakes that occur under the ocean floor can cause large waves that can affect low-lying countries and islands thousands of miles away. In the Indian Ocean, the most devastating tsunami occurred in December 2004 and affected a large area from Thailand to Somalia. Most of the estimated 200,000 fatalities were recorded in Sumatra, Sri Lanka and the Nicobar and Andaman Islands, which were closest to the epicentre of the earthquake. Marinas in Malaysia and Thailand suffered badly, but boats anchored in deeper water escaped mostly unscathed.

ROUTES IN THE NORTH INDIAN OCEAN

IN10 | • | Routes from Southeast Asia
IN20 | • | Routes from Sri Lanka and Maldives
IN30 | • | Routes in the Arabian Sea

Compared to the other two great oceans of the world, the Indian Ocean is criss-crossed by a relatively small number of cruising routes. One reason for this is that fewer sailing boats spend any length of time cruising as opposed to crossing this ocean as part of a world voyage. The routes are governed by the predictability of the weather, the seasons being much better defined than anywhere else. The regularity of the monsoons was recognised by early navigators, who knew how to take full advantage of the seasonal wind patterns. Because of this regularity, it is easy to plan a voyage well in advance to make a particular passage at the best time. This applies both to the northern half of the ocean, dominated by the NE and SW monsoons, and to its southern half, which is under the influence of the SE trade winds. The tsunami that devastated many of the countries bordering the North Indian Ocean in December 2004 does not seem to have had long-term effects on yachts visiting the area. Most of the damaged shore facilities were repaired promptly, and the situation returned to normal.

There are two major routes crossing the Indian Ocean, both of which start from the Torres Strait. For those who wish to cruise in the Mediterranean or intend to reach southern Europe by the shortest route, the logical way leads through the North Indian Ocean and the Red Sea. For those who wish to reach the Atlantic by way of the Cape of Good Hope, the direct route leads across the South Indian Ocean to South Africa. Most other routes in the Indian Ocean are variations of the above two. For boats sailing in the North Indian Ocean, the harbour of Galle in Sri Lanka continues to be a popular stopover. Most boats arrive in Galle from Thailand or Malaysia. They are mostly bound for the Red Sea and have waited in Southeast Asia to make the crossing of the North Indian Ocean at the optimum time. In recent years the number of cruising boats sailing in the western part of the India Ocean has diminished drastically due to the political uncertainty in Yemen and other countries bordering on the Red Sea.

In spite of India’s many attractions, most cruising boats continue to bypass this great country, mostly because of the complicated formalities, although the situation has improved recently. For similar reasons, few boats venture into any of the Gulf states.

The favourable season for a passage across the North Indian Ocean is during the NE monsoon, when almost perfect sailing conditions can be expected. Although this season lasts from December to March, passages made in January and February have the advantage that the Mediterranean is reached after the coldest weather is over and the cruising season is beginning.

The Bay of Bengal has typical monsoon weather. The NE monsoon begins in October in northern areas and is established only in November further south. It blows steadily with fine dry weather until April, when the weather becomes hot, still and oppressive. The SW monsoon only establishes itself around the middle of June, but quickly becomes strong, around 20–25 knots and blows steadily until August when it starts to decrease, ceasing in October. Cyclones are more numerous in the Bay of Bengal than in any other area of the Indian Ocean, although they are sometimes shorter and less severe.

Weather conditions are very similar in the Arabian Sea and as in other parts of the North Indian Ocean, the NE monsoon has the better weather. The wet season coincides with the SW monsoon, which commences in May in the south and spreads over the whole area by June. There is usually squally weather at the monsoon changeover. On the Indian coast the SW monsoon arrives with a sudden burst of wind from the east, heavy rain and thunder for several hours before the SW winds take over. This burst of the monsoon is preceded by a week of vivid lightning, which disappears every day when the sun sets. The SW winds in the Arabian Sea are very strong and can blow at 30 knots for several days. There is a very high frequency of gale force winds, especially near the island of Socotra, during the month of July. In September, the winds start weakening and the monsoon breaks up and disappears by October.

Windgrams showing a summary of wind conditions along some popular cruising routes

Phuket to Galle, January
Galle to Djibouti, February
Malé (Maldives) to Salalah (Oman), January
Djibouti to Malé, September

IN10 • Routes from Southeast Asia

• | IN11 | Singapore to Western Malaysia | 478
• | IN12 | Western Malaysia to Thailand | 479
• | IN13 | Western Malaysia to Sri Lanka | 480
• | IN14 | Thailand to Sri Lanka | 481
• | IN15 | Thailand to Singapore | 482
• | IN16 | Thailand to the Andaman Islands | 483
• | IN17 | Thailand to Myanmar | 484

One of the world’s major cruising routes passes through Singapore and the Malacca Strait into the Bay of Bengal. It is used mostly by boats on a world voyage from the South Pacific to the North Indian Ocean and the Red Sea. Most arrive by way of the Torres Strait and Indonesia and are joined in Singapore by boats coming from the North Pacific, mostly from Hong Kong and the Philippines. The number of boats sailing through Southeast Asia in the opposite direction is much smaller. In recent years, the areas around Langkawi in Western Malaysia, and Phuket in Thailand, have become popular cruising grounds and most boats passing through Singapore are on their way there.

Being so close to the equator, Singapore has a hot and humid climate, which varies little throughout the year. Calms and light winds occur year round. The NE monsoon begins in November, although the NE winds are deflected and appear at the beginning of this period as a NW monsoon. By January, NE winds are established but they do not blow as strongly or as steadily as over the South China Sea. From April onwards the SE trade winds penetrate from south of the equator, the winds often having a southerly component. Between April and November the area is affected by sumatras, thundery storms accompanied by strong winds, which blow across from Sumatra and last for several hours.

Although within the monsoon areas of the Indian Ocean, the weather in the Malacca Strait is highly influenced by local conditions, and variable winds with regular land and sea breezes occur at all times of the year. The SW monsoon is blocked by the high island of Sumatra, while the Malaysian Peninsula does the same to the NE monsoon. January to March normally has the best weather, fewer squalls and less rain as the NE monsoon penetrates into the area. Even in this season it is possible to get NW or W winds for some days. March and April are variable and the SW monsoon starts early in May, being strongest in July and August. The SW winds are most consistent in the northern portions of the Malacca Strait, variable from SE to SW with calms in the centre and more SE in southern areas towards Singapore.

Sea and land breezes occur on both shores of the Malacca Strait up to 20 miles offshore. The sea breeze begins about mid-morning and reaches a maximum in the afternoon, dying away at sunset. The strength of the breeze can be augmented by 20 knots if it combines with the prevailing monsoon or can remain light and variable if the monsoon opposes the breeze. Conditions vary greatly from place to place. On the Malaysian coast, the night land breeze can be very strong, starting in the evening and sometimes blowing hard all night. Further up the coast towards Thailand, the SW monsoon blows more steadily and strongly than in the Malacca Strait, lacking the shielding effect of the large island of Sumatra. The landmass of Thailand shelters this coast from the NE monsoon, which tends to have a more northerly component than elsewhere. Very rarely tropical storms generated in the Bay of Bengal cross the peninsula and reach the Gulf of Siam.

IN10 Routes from Southeast Asia

• IN11 Singapore to Western Malaysia

BEST TIME: | October to November, April |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Southeast Asia Pilot, Cruising Guide to South East Asia (Vol 1). |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Singapore X 1°16.0’N, 103°45.0’E | Singapore W 1°14.7’N, 103°25.0’E | Malacca S 1°58.5’N, 102°13.0’E |  | Malacca X 2°11.3’N, 102°14.5’E | 117
|  | Malacca W 2°09.0’N, 101°57.0’E [Port Klang N] 3°23.0’N, 101°0.0’E Port Klang W 2°55.0’N, 101°02.0’E | Port Klang S 2°51.0’N, 101°13.0’E | Port Klang X 3°00.5’N, 101°21.0’E | 197
|  | Pangkor W 4°01.0’N, 100°20.5’E [Pangkor N 4°15.0’N, 100°34.5’E | Pangkor S 4°10.5’N, 100°35.2’E | Pangkor X 4°12.0’N, 100°35.0’E | 290
|  | NW Channel] |  |  |
|  | 4°17.5’N, 100°31.0’E |  |  |
|  | [Penang SW] | Penang S | Penang X | 384
|  | 5°02.0’N, 100°03.0’E | 5°14.0’N, 100°17.5’E | 5°25.0’N, 100°21.0’E |
|  | Penang W | Langkawi SE | Kuah X | 413
|  | 5°20.0’N, 99°59.0’E | 6°14.0’N, 99°53.5’E | 6°18.3’N, 99°50.0’E |

Although a passage through the Malacca Strait can be undertaken throughout the year, the most settled weather is during the NE monsoon, when the frequency of squalls is much lower than during the opposite season. The notorious sumatras are more frequent during the SW monsoon, and because they are accompanied by heavy rain and gale force winds they can make navigation difficult, the situation also being complicated by the large amount of shipping.

Another feature of navigation in the Malacca Strait is the strong tidal currents, which, combined with the normally light winds, make it more convenient to anchor between tides than to try and sail against the current. This can be done easily as there are anchoring depths all along the sides of the strait and there are sufficient protected places where one can stop for a few hours. The Malaysian side is preferable if this passage is done in shorter stages. Light winds and calms are more frequent during the day, so it is better to sail at night when breezes are steadier and the weather is generally more pleasant. One hazard, however, that is almost impossible to avoid at night is the numerous fish traps that line the two sides of the strait, so it is a good idea to keep out of shallow water during the hours of darkness.

Very few voyages along the west coast of Malaysia are made without stopping and there are several ports between Malacca and Penang that can be visited by northbound boats. A first stop can be made at Muar, which is an official port of entry into Malaysia and has a marina. A more interesting stop is the old trading city of Malacca, which has been declared a UNESCO world heritage site. There is a small marina on the north shore of the river where formalities can be completed. Further north, a shipping channel leads into Port Klang, Malaysia’s main port, which serves the capital Kuala Lumpur. The facilities of the Royal Selangor Yacht Club may be used by visiting boats and the club will assist with clearance formalities. As the club is located in a busy area, the services of Pulau Indah Marina, at the river entrance, may be preferable.

From Port Klang, the offshore route continues parallel to the Malaysian coast to pass west of the Sembilan Islands. The alternative is to make a detour to the island of Pangkor, which hides the entrance into the Manjung River and the small town of Lumut. There is a small marina, which may be a more convenient base from which to visit the capital Kuala Lumpur than either Penang or Port Klang.

A popular stop along this route is Penang Island, whose old capital George Town is also a UNESCO world heritage site due to its many well-preserved buildings. The city is located on the west side of the narrows separating Penang from the mainland. The last stop in Malaysia is the island of Langkawi, whose main attraction is that it is a duty-free area. The Tyson Strait leads into the perfectly protected Bass Harbour, now known by its Malay name of Kuah. There is a wide range of docking and repair facilities in the area, which has made Langkawi a favourite among cruising sailors.

• IN12 Western Malaysia to Thailand

BEST TIME: | October to November, April |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Southeast Asia Pilot, Cruising Guide to South East Asia (Vol 1). |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Penang X5°25.0’N, 100°21.0’E | Channel N 5°03.5’N, 100°13.0’E |  |  |  | 223
Kuah X | Langkawi SW | Butang SW | Phuket S | Ao Chalong X | 138
6°18.3’N, 99°50.0’E | 6°15.0’N, 99°41.3’E | 6°29.0’N, 99°8.0’E | 7°44.0’N, 98°20.5’E | 7°48.0’N, 98°21.0’E |

The best time to sail this route is during the NE monsoon, when the weather is most settled, although winds for this northbound passage are not always favourable. The main cruising attraction on Thailand’s west coast is the island of Phuket and the surrounding area.

Boats leaving from Penang that intend to use the North Channel to reach the open sea may need to obtain permission to pass under the bridge linking the mainland to the island. Those leaving from Langkawi should set a course that passes west of a group of islands of which Butang is the westernmost. From there, the route continues in a NW direction passing east of the Racha Islands to make landfall off Phuket’s south coast. Arriving boats must proceed to Ao Chalong without stopping anywhere en route. A clearance facility has been set up there to complete entry formalities.

A number of free moorings have been dropped in Chalong Bay by the local marine department to help protect the fragile reef environment and deter visiting yachts from anchoring. There are several marinas in the Phuket area, the nearest to Ao Chalong being Boat Lagoon Marina, whereas Yacht Haven Marina is the nearest to the international airport.

• IN13 Western Malaysia to Sri Lanka

BEST TIME: | January to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | April to July, October to December |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Indian Ocean Cruising Guide. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Penang X 5°25.0’N, 100°21.0’E | Penang S 5°14.0’N, 100°17.5’E | Malacca Strait W 5°33.5’N, 97°31.0’E |  |  |
Kuah X | Langkawi SW | Rondo N | Sabang W | Sabang | 344/300
6°18.3’N, 99°50.0’E | 6°15.0’N, 99°41.3’E | 6°06.5’N, 95°7.0’E Sri Lanka S 5°50.0’N, 80°35.0’E | 5°53.0’N, 95°18.0’E | 5°53.2’N, 95°19.0’E |
|  | Galle SE | Magalle W | Magalle | 1218/1175
|  | 6°00.0’N, 80°14.0’E | 6°01.9’N, 80°13.4’E | 6°01.9’N, 80°13.7’E |

The best passages along this route are made between January and March, when the NE monsoon blows consistently over the North Indian Ocean. The passage should not be undertaken too early before the monsoon has had time to establish itself, as steady winds can rarely be relied upon before the middle of December. A start in early January has the best chance of excellent winds. Much less favourable conditions will be encountered during the transitional period, in April and October–November, when westerly winds are quite common and there is a high risk of cyclones in the Bay of Bengal.

This passage is not recommended during the SW monsoon, on account of both the contrary winds and the danger of cyclones in the Bay of Bengal. Although boats have tried to reach Sri Lanka during the SW monsoon by sailing on a southerly course after passing the northern extremity of Sumatra, in the hope of making their westing south of the equator, this is a difficult passage and should be avoided. An alternative is to reach the North Indian Ocean from Singapore via the Sunda Strait and then follow directions as for route IT12.

During the NE monsoon, boats leaving from ports in the south of the Malacca Strait or even Singapore should sail on the Malaysian side until the north of Sumatra can be fetched on the starboard tack. There are two convenient ports from which boats normally set off on this passage, both of them being located on islands off the Malaysian coast. Boats leaving from Penang should use the South Channel to reach the open sea. Another popular departure point is Langkawi. The direct route to the southern tip of Sri Lanka passes between Rondo and Great Nicobar Island. The passage may be interrupted at Sabang, a small port on the island of Wé, off the northern coast of Sumatra, where yachts are normally allowed to stop even if they do not have an Indonesian cruising permit.

Having passed Sumatra, the course should be altered to make landfall off Dondra Head, the southern tip of Sri Lanka. The island’s south coast is then followed to Galle, which is entered through the Eastern Channel. The town of Galle is on the west side of the large bay, whereas the small port is in the NE corner of the bay in a part of the town called Magalle. The services of a local agent are required to complete the formalities and it is advisable to contact an agent before arrival. Port control is supposed to be contacted on channel 16 when 15 miles from Galle.

The small port at Magalle cannot be entered at night and those arriving after office hours should anchor close to the breakwater in an area marked by yellow buoys. Approaching Galle from the east, especially at night, Goda Gala Rocks, SE of the harbour, should be given a wide berth and the bay approached from the south.

• IN14 Thailand to Sri Lanka

BEST TIME: | January to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | April to July, October to December |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Indian Ocean Cruising Guide. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Ao Chalong X 7°48.0’N, 98°21.0’E | Phuket S 7°44.0’N, 98°20.5’E | Nicobar S 6°27.0’N, 93°55.0’E Sri Lanka S 5°50.0’N, 80°35.0’E |  |  |
|  | Galle SE 6°00.0’N, 80°14.0’E | Magalle W 6°01.9’N, 80°13.4’E | Magalle 6°01.9’N, 80°13.7’E | 1100

At the height of the NE monsoon, between January and March, the winds along this route can be perfect and some of the most pleasant passages have been experienced on this route. Directions are very similar to those given for the previous route.

Passages starting from Phuket have a choice of routes to pass either to one or the other side of the Nicobar Islands. The route passing south of Great Nicobar is the recommended route. Passing north of Little Nicobar and through the Sombrero Channel has the disadvantage of more dangers to avoid and also more small-boat traffic, especially at night. The Nicobars belong to India and cruising boats are not allowed to stop as this is a protected area. The authorities insist that those who wish to stop at any of these islands must clear in first at Port Blair in South Andaman. This would entail a considerable detour for anyone en route to Sri Lanka. Refer to IN16 for details of visiting these islands.

Having passed the Nicobars, the course can be altered for Dondra Head at the southern extremity of Sri Lanka. From there, the route runs parallel to the island’s south coast to Galle Harbour, which is entered through the Eastern Channel. See IN13 for details of procedure on arrival.

• IN15 Thailand to Singapore

BEST TIME: | January to April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | May to December |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Southeast Asia Pilot, Cruising Guide to Southeast Asia. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Ao Chalong X 7°48.0’N, 98°21.0’E | Phuket S 7°44.0’N, 98°20.5’E | Butang SW 6°29.0’N, 99°41.3’E [Langkawi SE] 6°14.0’N, 99°08.0’E | Langkawi SW 6°15.0’N, 99°41.3’E | Kuah X 6°18.3’N, 99°50.0’E | 138
|  | [North Channel] 5°03.5’N, 100°13.0’E [Penang S] 5°14.0’N, 100°17.5’E Penang SW 5°02.0’N, 100°03.0’E |  | Penang X 5°25.0’N, 100°21.0’E | 223
|  | [NW Channel 4°17.5’N, 100°31.0’E Pangkor S] 4°10.5’N, 100°35.2’E | Pangkor N 4°15.0’N, 100°34.5’E | Pangkor X 4°12.0’N, 100°35.0’E | 255
|  | Pangkor W 4°01.0’N, 100°20.5’E Port Klang S 2°51.0’N, 101°13.0’E Port Klang W 2°55.0’N, 101°02.0’E | Port Klang N 2°55.0’N, 101°2.0’E | Port Klang X 3°00.5’N, 101°21.0’E | 357
|  | Malacca W 2°09.0’N, 101°57.0’E |  | Malacca X 2°11.3’N, 102°14.5’E | 424
|  | Malacca S 1°58.5’N, 102°13.0’E | Singapore W 1°14.7’N, 103°25.0’E | Singapore X 1°16.0’N, 103°45.0’E | 530

The west coast of Thailand south of Phuket can be cruised throughout the year as it is not affected by the cyclones that originate in the Bay of Bengal. Although a passage through the Malacca Strait can be undertaken throughout the year, the best weather conditions will be experienced during the NE monsoon, when the frequency of squalls is much lower than during the opposite season. Also less frequent are the notorious sumatras, which can make navigation very difficult in these busy waters as the squalls are accompanied by heavy rain and gale force winds. In both seasons the main current has a northerly set. Another feature of navigation in the Malacca Strait is the strong tidal currents, which, combined with the normally light winds, make it more convenient to anchor between tides. This can easily be done as there are anchoring depths all along the Malaysian shore and there are sufficient protected places where one can stop for a few hours. The Malaysian side is preferable if this passage is done in shorter stages. Light winds and calms are more frequent during the day, so it is better to sail at night when breezes are steadier. One hazard that is almost impossible to avoid at night is the numerous fish traps that line the two shores. It is therefore recommended to sail in deeper waters during the hours of darkness.

On leaving Phuket, southbound boats have the choice of taking either an inshore route and stopping at a number of conveniently placed ports along the Malaysian shore or staying offshore. The first stop could be in Langkawi as it is the nearest port of entry into Malaysia. The route passes west of the Butang Islands before making landfall on the west coast of Langkawi. The Tyson Strait leads into the perfectly protected Bass Harbour (Kuah). Langkawi has a wide range of docking and repair facilities, and as a duty-free area the prices of marina equipment are considerably lower than in Thailand.

A most attractive stop along the route is the island of Penang and its historic city of George Town. Penang is reached through the North Channel, which separates it from the mainland. The old trading centre of Malacca shares with George Town the prestige of having been declared a UNESCO world heritage site. The marina is located on the north shore of the Malacca River.

The density of shipping traffic increases as you get closer to Singapore. The busiest port in the world is approached through the Singapore Channel. All visiting yachts visiting Singapore are required to engage a licensed agent in advance of arrival to deal with formalities both on arrival and departure. The agent must be contacted not later than 12 hours prior to arrival to commence the entry procedure. Raffles Marina, on the west shore of Singapore Island, is the most convenient place to plan your arrival, although there are several other marinas in and around Singapore. Entry formalities for day arrivals can be completed at Raffles Marina. Boats arriving at night must proceed to one of two quarantine areas: Western Anchorage, located SE of Sentosa Island, or Changi Immigration, located NE of the naval base. Because of the heavy traffic, night arrivals are not advisable.

• IN16 Thailand to the Andaman Islands

BEST TIME: | January to February |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | April to July, October to December |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Southeast Asia Pilot, Indian Ocean Cruising Guide. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |
Start | Departure Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Ao Chalong X | Phuket S | Port Blair E | Port Blair X | 412
7°48.0’N, 98°21.0’E | 7°44.0’N, 98°20.5’E | 11°41.0’N, 92°47.0’E | 11°41.0’N, 92°44.6’E |

There are two reasons why the Nicobar and Andaman Islands, which are administered by India, are only visited by a limited number of cruising yachts. The first is their location north of the well-travelled route between SE Asia and Sri Lanka, although the second is probably more important as, until recently, the Indian authorities have not encouraged visits by cruising boats. But this has changed as the islands have great potential, which is already recognised by tourists, such as Ritchie’s Archipelago, reputed to have some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. There are over 300 islands in the Andamans and 24 in the Nicobars, but only 34 islands are permanently inhabited, the rest being designated forest, biosphere or tribal reserves. As far as the Nicobar Islands are concerned, the authorities are determined to keep contacts with some of the tribal areas to the minimum, but no such restrictions apply to the Andamans.

As with the whole area, the best weather conditions are during the NE monsoon. The route from Phuket cuts across the Andaman Sea, passing close to the Similan Islands belonging to Thailand. A stop at these attractive islands may be tolerated even if having cleared out of Thailand already. The route continues in a NW direction to make landfall on the east coast of South Andaman Island in the approaches to the large landlocked bay sheltering Port Blair. This is the only port of entry and the capital of the archipelago, where entry formalities must be completed. The harbour master should be contacted on channel 16 a few hours before arrival, and again before entering the port when instructions will be given where to anchor. Several offices need to be visited as part of a lengthy procedure. All visitors arriving by boat must have an Indian visa. A permit to visit specific areas should be requested on arrival.

• IN17 Thailand to Myanmar

BEST TIME: | January to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | April to July, October to December |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Southeast Asia Pilot. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Ao Chalong X | Phuket S | [Similan SE] | Similan NE | Similan X | 77
7°48.0’N, 98°21.0’E | 7°44.0’N, 98°20.5’E | 8°27.0’N, 97°41.0’E | 8°37.0’N, 97°42.5’E | 8°39.2’N, 97°38.2’E |
|  | Kom Yai E 9°25.0’N, 98°6.0’E | Bell Passage SW 9°50.8’N, 98°23.7’E | Khawtung X 9°58.7’N, 98°33.2’E | 169

Weather conditions for this northbound passage are similar to those described in IN16 and the NE monsoon is certainly the best time of year to visit this country, which is gradually opening to tourism after years of self-imposed isolation. Myanmar has vast potential ready to be tapped, and cruising opportunities are on a par with those of Thailand, if not better due to this being as yet a mostly unexplored part of the world untouched by mass tourism. From a sailor’s point of view, the southern part of the country to the Thai border is the most attractive area and promises to become a popular cruising destination.

The route from Phuket passes right by the Similan Archipelago to reach Myanmar’s southern limit of a vast area over which are scattered hundreds of islands. Navigating among them is not easy as navigation aids are almost non-existent. The suggested route can be sailed via a relatively straightforward channel starting east of the Surin Islands. Having reached the southern entrance of the Bell Passage, the route continues to the well-sheltered port of Khawtung (Victoria Point). This port of entry is set at the mouth of the Pakchan River opposite the port of Ranong in Thailand. Visiting boats normally anchor off the naval pier. A cruising permit needs to be obtained in advance and the way to do it is to use the services of a local agent in the proposed port of arrival. The agent should be contacted shortly before arrival to alert the authorities.

The Mergui Archipelago, which stretches north from here, offers many cruising opportunities among the myriad islands and cays. The Myanmar authorities have permitted a few Thai dive companies to operate in this area and a number of cruising boats have also benefited from this relaxation. It is hoped that this trend will continue.

IN20 • Routes from Sri Lanka and Maldives

• | IN21 | Sri Lanka to Red Sea | 486
• | IN22 | Sri Lanka to Oman | 487
• | IN23 | Sri Lanka to India | 487
• | IN24 | Sri Lanka to Maldives | 488
• | IN25 | Sri Lanka to Southeast Asia | 489
• | IN26 | Maldives to India | 491
• | IN27 | Maldives to Oman | 491
• | IN28 | Maldives to Red Sea | 492

Sri Lanka occupies such a strategic position at the crossroads of the North Indian Ocean that few boats pass it by without stopping. Because the capital Colombo is a busy commercial harbour, most cruising boats call at Galle, on the south coast of the island. Most arrivals are at the height of the NE monsoon, in January and February, when the small port is full to capacity. Because most voyages are westbound towards the Red Sea and Suez Canal, eastbound passages are rather rare, although there are a few boats arriving in Sri Lanka from the Red Sea or East Africa. Those who plan to sail eastwards across the North Indian Ocean must wait for the SW monsoon, which provides excellent sailing conditions even if at times the winds might be quite strong. Although most boats passing through Sri Lanka are on their way to the Red Sea and Mediterranean, others use it as a convenient hub for voyages to India, the Maldives or destinations in the South Indian Ocean.

An increasingly popular destination is Southern India, with most boats using the port of Cochin as a base from which to explore some parts of this interesting country. Foreign nationals must have a visa, which can be obtained online. This type of e-visa is only valid for arrivals at five designated ports: Chennai, Cochin, Goa, Mangalore and Mumbai.

The NE monsoon only sets in at the end of November or even December, arriving with squally weather and rain. From January onwards, moderate NE winds prevail, with fine dry weather until March or April. The SW monsoon lasts in Sri Lanka longer than elsewhere, beginning in May and lasting right through until December. The SW monsoon often commences with a ‘monsoon burst’, a blast of east wind that arrives with rain, thunder and lightning after a week of large clouds and vivid lightning, which disappear after sunset. The SW winds are fairly constant in direction, usually strengthening to 20–30 knots by mid-morning and slackening off in the late afternoon, dropping to around 10 knots during the night. Heavy rain occurs on the SW coast from May to September. The south coast is affected by heavy swell during the SW monsoon. Although rarely hit by cyclones originating in the Arabian Sea, which move to the NW, those that originate in the Bay of Bengal can strike Sri Lanka, most frequently in the months of November and December.

The westbound migration across the North Indian Ocean suffered two major shocks in recent years. The first occurred in the early part of this century when piracy in the North Indian Ocean became such a threat to both commercial vessels and pleasure craft that the majority of yachts bound for the Mediterranean abandoned the Red Sea route and switched to the safer way around the Cape of Good Hope. Eventually the threat of piracy was brought under control by an international coalition of naval forces, but the hard-won tranquillity didn’t last long, as the political uncertainty in Yemen and other countries bordering on the Red Sea brought on a new crisis. As a result, the small boat traffic between Southeast Asia and Mediterranean never recuperated and the Cape of Good Hope route continues to be the preferred option to reach the Atlantic.

By late 2021, when this book went to press, the safety situation in the Red Sea continued to be uncertain, although a small number of yachts did take that route to the Mediterranean. We can only hope that eventually the situation in that part of the world will return to normal and voyagers will once again feel safe to sail the traditional routes across the North Indian Ocean. The suggestions made for any passages in this section are made on the premise that the situation in the North Indian Ocean has returned to normal. Refer to www.noonsite.com for the latest updates on the current situation.

IN20 Routes from Sri Lanka

• IN21 Sri Lanka to Red Sea

BEST TIME: | January to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | May to July, September to December |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | I3 Voyages from Southeast Asia to the Mediterranean |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Red Sea Pilot. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Magalle 6°01.9’N, 80°13.7’E | Magalle W 6°01.9’N, 80°13.4’E | Galle S 6°00.5’N, 80°13.3’E [Maldives NE 7°05.5’N, 73°34.5’E |  |  |
|  | Uligamu E] 7°04.5’N, 72°57.0’E Eight 7°42.0’N, 72°57.5’E Gulf E 14°28.0’N, 54°19.0’E | Uligamu SW 7°04.0’N, 72°55.3’E | Uligamu X 7°05.0’N, 72°55.5’E | 443
|  | Gulf W |  |  |
|  | 12°23.0’N, 45°46.0’E |  |  |
|  | Aden SE 12°42.0’N, 45°03.0’E | Tarshayn W 12°46.5’N, 44°57.5’E | Aden 12°47.5’N, 44°58.0’E | 2193
|  | Djibouti NE 11°43.0’N, 43°21.5’E | Heron N 11°38.5’N, 43°8.0’E | Djibouti 11°36.3’N, 43°8.0’E | 2302

At the height of the NE monsoon, when the average wind strength is between 10 and 15 knots, this passage can be truly delightful. There is also a favourable current and gales are virtually non-existent. Winds become lighter towards March and it is advisable to leave Sri Lanka with a good reserve of fuel.

Having left Galle Harbour through the Western Channel, an initial course can be set to pass through the Eight Degree Channel north of the Maldives. A last chance to experience at least a small part of that country is to call en route at Uligamu, on the Han Alif Atoll, where brief stops are normally permitted. The route then crosses the Arabian Sea and continues along the axis of the Gulf of Aden. Both Socotra, which belongs to Yemen, and the Somali coast should be passed at a safe distance.

Boats bound for Aden will be the first to peel off this route to head for that busy harbour. Aden port control should be called on channel 16 before entering the buoyed channel. Visiting yachts are normally directed to the anchorage west of the customs wharf. Boats bound for Djibouti should alter course for the Gulf of Tadjura and pass south of the Musha Islands. A marked channel leads into the port of Djibouti. On arrival, boats normally anchor in the area close to the former yacht club. The various authorities are in the nearby commercial harbour and must be visited to complete entry formalities.

Over the years, Djibouti has become the preferred landfall on this route and a convenient place to prepare for the passage through the Red Sea. Provisioning is very good and there is an adequate range of repair facilities. Djibouti also has the advantage of regular flights to Paris, making crew changes easier.

After the middle of March the winds in the approaches to the Gulf of Aden may turn to SW, making it very difficult to sail along the recommended route. In the past, sailing boats took a route between Socotra and the African coast, but such an alternative should not be attempted as long as the situation along the Somali coast continues to be considered unsafe. This passage is not normally undertaken during the SW monsoon. The alternative is to cross the equator and make your westing with the help of the SE trade winds, possibly south of Chagos, before recrossing the equator. As such a route runs close to the Seychelles, directions would be similar to those for route IT16.

• IN22 Sri Lanka to Oman

BEST TIME: | January to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | May to July, September to December |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | I3 South East Asia to the Mediterranean |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Indian Ocean Cruising Guide. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Magalle 6°01.9’N, 80°13.7’E | Magalle W 6°01.9’N, 80°13.4’E | Galle S 6°00.5’N, 80°13.3’E Nine S 9°00.0’N, 73°00.0’E |  |  |
|  | Oman SE 16°52.0’N, 54°11.0’E | Salalah E 16°57.0’N, 54°2.0’E | Salalah 16°56.6’N, 54°0.5’E | 1730

Rather than sail nonstop to the Red Sea, in recent years some boats have been making a detour to Oman, often to meet other sailors going the same way and continue together through the critical areas. The weather during the NE monsoon is very pleasant and the passage from Sri Lanka usually enjoys excellent winds. The passage should not be made before the end of the year to allow the monsoon to establish itself.

From Galle, the route turns NW to pass south of the Laccadive Islands through the Nine Degree Channel. Occasionally boats have stopped at Sueli Par, an atoll on the north side of the channel. A course can then be set to make landfall SE of the entrance into the port of Salalah (Mina Raysut). Port control should be contacted on channel 16 one hour before ETA to give notice of arrival, and again before entering the harbour. Berthing instructions will be given, as will information on where to complete formalities. The services of a local agent must be used to deal with entry formalities and other matters. This is a good base to leave the boat for those who wish to visit the interior, but arrangements must be made to have someone look after the boat during your absence. As the number of local yachts is increasing, there is a reasonable range of repair facilities.

• IN23 Sri Lanka to India

BEST TIME: | December to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | April to June, September to December |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Indian Ocean Cruising Guide. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Magalle 6°01.9’N, 80°13.7’E | Magalle W 6°01.9’N, 80°13.4’E | Galle S 6°00.5’N, 80°13.3’E Comorin 7°45.0’N, 77°20.0’E Tangasseri 8°52.0’N, 76°24.0’E |  |  |
|  | Cochin SW 9°51.0’N, 76°06.0’E Mangalore W 12°48.0’N, 74°22.0’E | Cochin W 9°58.0’N, 76°10.5’E | Cochin 9°58.3’N, 76°15.4’E | 365
|  | Mormugao SW 15°20.0’N, 73°43.0’E | Panaji SW 15°27.6’N, 73°45.5’E | Panaji 15°29.7’N, 73 °48.7’E | 723

Although the NE monsoon has more settled weather, the high proportion of NW winds makes it difficult to reach most ports on the west coast of India during this monsoon. Coastal navigation is made somewhat easier between December and February by alternating land and sea breezes, which make it possible to take long tacks along the coast. When sailing close to the coast at night it is difficult to avoid the numerous fishing nets and small boats without lights that are a feature of this coast. During the hours of darkness it is safer to stay a few miles offshore.

The northbound passage is not easier during the SW monsoon, as this is the time when the weather is often unsettled. One alternative is to reach NW India towards the end of the SW monsoon, in September, and sail down the coast with the help of the NW winds and south-setting current that occur at the change of seasons. During the NE monsoon, constant light northerly winds will be experienced as far north as Cochin. For this reason, few boats venture further north than Cochin, where it is possible to leave the boat under guard and travel inland.

Having left Galle Harbour, a course should be set to pass south of Cape Comorin, the southernmost point of India. In strong winds and big seas, the cape should be rounded further offshore as the seas tend to get very rough in its vicinity. The route then swings north parallel to the coast to pass west of Tangasseri Point. Landfall will be made SW of the entrance into Cochin Harbour. Arriving yachts should contact Cochin port authority on channel 16 when entering the approach channel. Cruising boats are normally asked to anchor off the north tip of Willingdon Island, where a customs launch will come to start entry formalities. After formalities have been completed, it is possible to move to the marina on Bolgatty Island.

One of the most interesting places to visit along India’s west coast is Goa. Due to its colourful past and Portuguese influence, Goa is very different from the rest of India. The state capital Panaji is located on the banks of the Mandovi River. All yachts are required to give a 72-hour pre-arrival notification to Panaji port authority. On arrival, port control should be contacted on channel 16 for permission to enter. Various offices need to be visited. The facilities for visiting yachts are limited, although there are plans to build a marina. It is possible to anchor either in Verem Bay or on the south side of the river near Patto Bridge.

Foreign nationals must have a visa, which can be obtained online. This type of e-visa is only valid for arrivals at five designated ports: Chennai, Cochin, Goa, Mangalore and Mumbai.

• IN24 Sri Lanka to Maldives

BEST TIME: | January to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | April to July, October to December |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Maldives Cruising Guide. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Magalle 6°01.9’N, 80°13.7’E | Magalle W 6°01.9’N, 80°13.4’E | Galle S 6°00.5’N, 80°13.3’E |  |  |
|  | Maldives E 4°27.0’N, 74°42.0’E Maldives NE 7°05.5’N, 73°34.5’E | Malé E 4°10.0’N, 73°33.0’E | Malé 4°10.0’N, 73°30.0’E | 418
|  | Uligamu E 7°04.5’N, 72°57.0’E | Uligamu SW 7°04.0’N, 72°55.3’E | Uligamu X 7°05.0’N, 72°55.5’E | 443

This passage is best made during the NE monsoon when winds are mostly favourable. Contrary winds and a strong east-setting current are the order of the day for a passage during the SW monsoon, and even during the transitional months the winds are often westerly. Tropical storms very rarely touch the Northern Maldives and the danger of encountering a cyclone along this route is remote. The Maldives should be approached with great caution both because they are all low-lying islands and because of the strong currents.

From outside Galle harbour, a direct course can be sailed to make landfall east of the Maldives, in the approaches to the North Malé Atoll. The route to the capital Malé passes south of Hulule Island to reach the Malé Passage, a dredged channel leading into the North Malé Atoll. The coastguard should be called on channel 16, who will pass on the vessel’s particulars to the port authority before the boat is allowed to proceed. Visiting yachts are expected to use the services of a local agent to complete formalities, and it is advisable to have contacted such an agent in advance. In that case, the agent will deal with the necessary formalities and may also advise where to proceed to complete formalities. A special cruising permit is required for those who plan to spend longer in the Maldives.

• IN25 Sri Lanka to Southeast Asia

BEST TIME: | January to February, August |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | April to May, October to December |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | I6 Eastbound Voyages from the Red Sea |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Southeast Asia Pilot, Cruising | Guide to Southeast Asia. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IN25A |  |  |  |  |
Magalle 6°01.9’N, 80°13.7’E | Magalle W 6°01.9’N, 80°13.4’E | Galle SE 6°00.0’N, 80°14.0’E Sri Lanka S 5°50.0’N, 80°35.0’E |  |  |
|  | Nicobar S | Phuket S | Ao Chalong X | 1100
|  | 6°27.0’N, 93°55.0’E | 7°44.0’N, 98°20.5’E | 7°48.0’N, 98°21.0’E |
Route IN25B |  |  |  |  |
Magalle | Magalle W | Galle SE Sri Lanka S |  |  |
|  | Rondo N 6°06.5’N, 95°07.0’E | Sabang W 5°53.0’N, 95°18.0’E | Sabang 5°53.2’N, 95°19.0’E | 911
|  |  | Langkawi SW 6°15.0’N, 99°41.3’E | Kuah X 6°18.3’N, 99°50.0’E | 1175
|  | Malacca Strait W 5°33.5’N, 97°31.0’E | Penang S 5°14.0’N, 100°17.5’E | Penang X 5°25.0’N, 100°21.0’E | 1218
|  |  | Port Klang W 2°55.0’N, 101°2.0’E | Port Klang X 3°00.5’N, 101°21.0’E | 1323
|  | Malacca W 2°09.0’N, 101°57.0’E |  | Malacca X 2°11.3’N, 102°14.5’E | 1392
Route IN25C |  |  |  |  |
Magalle | Magalle W | Galle SE Sri Lanka S |  |  |
|  | Rondo N Malacca Strait W | Sabang W | Sabang | 911
|  | Malacca W | Singapore W 1°14.7’N, 103°25.0’E | Singapore X 1°16.0’N, 103°45.0’E | 1498

The recommended time for this passage is during the SW monsoon, although at its height the winds are usually very strong. The transition months may provide better sailing conditions, but they also carry the higher risk of cyclones. Although the cyclone season in the Bay of Bengal extends over the entire SW monsoon period, at the height of the monsoon the development of tropical storms is opposed by the strong monsoon; the few cyclones between July and September normally stay well to the north of the area crossed by this route. As the risk of cyclones in the Bay of Bengal is on the increase from October onwards, eastbound passages from Sri Lanka should not be delayed beyond September. A late-September or early-October arrival in Southeast Asia would suit perfectly those who intend to continue their voyage eastward into the North Pacific as the winter months have the lowest incidence of typhoons.

Eastbound routes from Sri Lanka have a wide choice of arrival destinations from Phuket in the north to Singapore in the south, and have been divided into three groups: a northern one for those bound for Thailand, a central one for destinations in Western Malaysia, and a southern one directly to Singapore.

In the Malacca Strait, the SW monsoon is usually blocked by the landmass of Sumatra and better winds are therefore found on the Malaysian side of the strait. Navigation in the Malacca Strait must take into account local conditions, and because of the strong tidal currents, it is usually better to anchor between tides. As for the winds during the SW monsoon, those from SW are strongest in the northern portions of the Malacca Strait, variable from SE to SW with calms in the centre, and more SE in southern areas towards Singapore. Sea and land breezes occur on either coast and up to 20 miles offshore. The sea breeze begins about mid-morning and reaches a maximum in the afternoon, dying away at sunset. The strength of the breeze can be augmented by 20 knots if it combines with the prevailing monsoon. On the Malaysian coast, the night land breeze can be very strong, starting in the evening and sometimes blowing hard all night. Between April and November the area is affected by sumatras, thundery storms with gale force winds, which blow across from Sumatra and last for several hours.

Having left Galle, the initial course for all three routes follows Sri Lanka’s south coast to Dondra Head, the southern extremity of the island, and then continues virtually due east across the Bay of Bengal to the Great Channel north of Sumatra. The boats on route IN25A will sail a slightly more northerly course to pass south of the Nicobar Islands and make landfall on the south coast of Phuket. Arriving boats should proceed directly to Ao Chalong Bay, on the east side of the island. A clearance facility has been set up to deal with formalities at Ao Chalong Pier.

The boats on route IN25B will sail closer to the northern tip of Sumatra, passing close to Rondo Island. Some boats make a brief stop at nearby Sabang, on Pulau Wé, a small island where boats are normally allowed to stop without the need to have an Indonesian cruising permit. In 2016, the Indonesian authorities decided to ease such formalities and the procedure for obtaining such a permit has been simplified. Anyone intending to enter Indonesia by yacht must first register on the Yacht Electronic Registration System at https://yachters.beacukai.go.id. This must be done up to 24 hours before arrival at an official port of entry.

From the Great Channel, route IN25B fans out to various destinations with the northernmost being the island of Langkawi, whose main attraction is that it is a duty-free area. The Tyson Strait leads into the perfectly protected Bass Harbour, now known by its Malay name of Kuah. There is a wide range of docking and repair facilities in the area, which has made Langkawi a favourite among cruising sailors.

Another alternative landfall is Penang Island, whose attractive capital George Town is a UNESCO world heritage site due to its many well-preserved buildings. The city is located on the west side of the narrows separating Penang from the mainland and is a popular cruising destination.

Boats bound for more southern destinations should set a course for the northern entrance into the Malacca Strait. Two ports that can be visited en route are Port Klang and the old city of Malacca. The former is Malaysia’s main port and serves the capital Kuala Lumpur. The facilities of the Royal Selangor Yacht Club may be used by visiting boats and the club will assist with clearance formalities. As the club is located in a busy area, the services of Pulau Indah Marina, at the river entrance, may be preferable. The once busy trading city of Malacca is a UNESCO world heritage site and an interesting place to visit. There is a small marina on the north shore of the Malacca River where formalities can be completed.

Boats on route IN25C on a direct passage to Singapore should keep to the main shipping channel running down the axis of the Malacca Strait to make landfall at the entrance into the Singapore Channel. All visiting yachts are required to engage a licensed agent in advance of arrival to deal with formalities both on arrival and departure. The agent must be contacted not later than 12 hours prior to arrival to commence the entry procedure. Raffles Marina, on the west shore of Singapore Island, is the most convenient place to make your arrival. Entry formalities for day arrivals can be completed at Raffles Marina. Boats arriving at night must proceed to the quarantine area: Western Anchorage, located SE of Sentosa Island. Because of the heavy traffic, night arrivals are not advisable.

• IN26 Maldives to India

BEST TIME: | January to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | May to July, September to December |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Indian Ocean Cruising Guide. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Malé 4°10.0’N, 73°30.0’E | Malé E 4°10.0’N, 73°33.0’E | Malé NE 4°30.0’N, 73°45.0’E |  |  |
|  | Cochin SW 9°51.0’N, 76°06.0’E Mangalore W 12°48.0’N, 74°22.0’E | Cochin W 9°58.0’N, 76°10.5’E | Cochin 9°58.3’N, 76°15.4’E | 390
|  | Mormugao SW 15°20.0’N, 73°43.0’E | Panaji SW 15°27.6’N, 73°45.5’E | Panaji 15°29.7’N, 73°48.7’E | 694

Although the best sailing conditions in the North Indian Ocean coincide with the NE monsoon of winter, on this route strong head winds make it imperative to sail at a time when the monsoon is not yet fully established. Better winds will be found during the SW monsoon, but it is advisable to avoid sailing into the Arabian Sea during the cyclone season. Boats leaving from Malé during the NE monsoon, in February or March, should stay west of the Northern Maldives to benefit from a slightly better sailing angle across the N and NW winds blowing along the Indian coast at that time of year.

Having made landfall SW of the entrance into Cochin harbour, arriving yachts should contact Cochin port authority on channel 16 when entering the shipping channel. Cruising boats are normally asked to anchor off the north tip of Willingdon Island, where a customs launch will come to start entry formalities. After formalities have been completed, it is possible to move to the marina on Bolgatty Island.

The state capital of the small state of Goa is Panaji located on the banks of the Mandovi River. All yachts are required to give a 72-hour pre-arrival notification to Panaji port authority. On arrival, port control should be contacted on channel 16 for permission to enter. Facilities for visiting yachts are limited, although there are plans to build a marina. It is possible to anchor either in Verem Bay or on the south side of the river near Patto Bridge.

Foreign nationals must have a visa, which can be obtained online. This type of e-visa is only valid for arrivals at five designated ports: Chennai, Cochin, Goa, Mangalore and Mumbai.

• IN27 Maldives to Oman

BEST TIME: | January to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | May to July, September to December |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Indian Ocean Cruising Guide. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Malé 4°10.0’N, 73°30.0’E | Malé W 4°10.0’N, 73°21.0’E | Thodoo N 4°33.0’N, 72°58.5’E Goidhoo W 4°49.5’N, 72°38.0’E |  |  |
Uligamu X 7°05.0’N, 72°55.5’E | Vaggaru N 7°07.0’N, 72°52.6’E | Maldives N 7°10.0’N, 72°52.5’E |  |  |
|  | Oman SE | Salalah E | Salalah | 1382 /1258
|  | 16°52.0’N, 54°11.0’E | 16°57.0’N, 54°2.0’E | 16°56.6’N, 54°00.5’E |

Excellent weather conditions will be experienced during the NE monsoon of winter. Boats leaving from Malé should make their way north of the Thodoo and west of the Goidhoo Atolls to reach the open sea. From there a clear course leads across the Arabian Sea to make landfall off the Omani coast. Salalah port control should be contacted on channel 16 one hour before ETA to give notice of arrival. Before entering Port Salalah, port control should be called on channel 16 for berthing instructions and also for information on where to complete formalities. The services of a local agent must be used to deal with entry formalities and other matters. This is a good base to leave the boat for those who wish to visit the interior, but arrangements must be made to have someone look after the boat during your absence.

• IN28 Maldives to Red Sea

BEST TIME: | January to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | May to July, September to | December |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | I3 Voyages from South East Asia to Suez |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Indian Ocean Cruising Guide, Red Sea Pilot. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Malé 4°10.0’N, 73°30.0’E | Malé W 4°10.0’N, 73°21.0’E | Thodoo N 4°33.0’N, 72°58.5’E Goidhoo W 4°49.5’N, 72°38.0’E Maldives W 4°58.0’N, 71°40.0’E |  |  |
Uligamu X 7°05.0’N, 72°55.5’E | Vaggaru N 7°07.0’N, 72°52.6’E | Maldives N 7°10.0’N, 72°52.5’E Gulf E 14°28.0’N, 54°19.0’E Gulf W 12°23.0’N, 45°46.0’E Gulf SE 12°42.0’N, 45°3.0’E |  |  |
|  | Djibouti NE 11°43.0’N, 43°21.5’E | Heron N 11°38.5’N, 43°8.0’E | Djibouti 11°36.3’N, 43°08.0’E | 1976/1861

The best sailing conditions on this route prevail during the winter months, when the NE monsoon ensures a most pleasurable passage. The direct route crosses the Arabian Sea to make landfall north of Socotra Island at the entrance into the Gulf of Aden. Both Socotra, which belongs to Yemen, and the Somali coast should be passed at a safe distance.

Passages originating in Malé should make their way north of the Thodoo and west of the Goidhoo Atolls to reach the open sea. From there, a clear course leads across the Arabian Sea to the entrance into the Gulf of Aden. From there, the recommended route continues along the axis of the Gulf of Aden. Boats bound for Djibouti should alter course for the Gulf of Tadjura and pass south of the Musha Islands. A marked channel leads into the port of Djibouti. On arrival, boats normally anchor in the area close to the former yacht club. The various authorities are in the nearby commercial harbour and must be visited to complete entry formalities.

In recent years, Djibouti has become the preferred landfall on this route and a convenient place to prepare for a passage through the Red Sea. Provisioning is very good and there is a modest range of repair facilities. Djibouti also has the advantage of regular flights to Paris, making crew changes easier. The safety situation throughout the region should be ascertained before committing to this passage.

IN30 • Routes in the Arabian Sea

• | IN31 | India to Red Sea | 494
• | IN32 | Oman to Red Sea | 495
• | IN33 | Red Sea to Sri Lanka | 496
• | IN34 | Oman to Sri Lanka | 497
• | IN35 | Red Sea to Maldives | 498
• | IN36 | Red Sea to India | 499
• | IN37 | India to Oman | 500

Most small-boat traffic in the Arabian Sea is westbound and the busiest routes are those sailed by boats using the NE monsoon to reach the Red Sea from Sri Lanka or the Maldives. Eastbound voyages are far less common and, outside the months of January to March, sailing boats are quite a rarity. The mostly unpleasant weather during the SW monsoon is not the only reason why most sailors avoid the North Indian Ocean in summer. The other reason is the threat of piracy, which in recent years has kept cruising boats well away from any areas in the Indian Ocean, both North and South, considered to be unsafe. As a result of a determined international effort to tackle this grave problem, by early 2022 the situation had greatly improved, with very few incidents being reported. Whether this was a sign of a return to normality only time will tell.

The seasonal winds of this sea gave us the word ‘monsoon’, meaning ‘season’ in Arabic, and both the NE and SW monsoons blow with great strength and constancy over this area. The NE monsoon begins in November and is the time of fair weather. In northern areas it can blow more N than NE, and even NW. The average strength is 10 to 15 knots at the beginning of the season, but it increases to 15 to 20 knots in December and can be even stronger in the north. Winds over 20 knots are rarely recorded in the North Indian Ocean along the traditional route from SE Asia to the Red Sea during the recommended time.

The wet season coincides with the SW monsoon, which commences in May in the south and spreads over the whole area by June. At the monsoon changeover the weather can be very squally. On the Indian coast, the SW monsoon arrives with a sudden burst of wind from the east, heavy rain and thunder for several hours before SW winds take over. This is preceded by a week of vivid lightning, which disappears every day at sunset. The SW winds in the Arabian Sea are very strong and can blow at gale force for several days. There is a high frequency of gales near the island of Socotra in July. Indeed, the average strength of the wind in the area off the Horn of Africa in summer is force 6, which is higher than the average force 5 off Cape Horn during the same months of the austral summer. In September, the winds start weakening and the monsoon breaks up and disappears by October.

Cyclones occur in two periods of the year, which coincide with the monsoon changeover. April to July is one period with a high frequency, with June having the highest incidence of cyclones. October has the highest frequency in the opposite period, with cyclones occurring from September until December. Most of the storms that occur in May and June are bred in the Arabian Sea. Most cyclones curve NW to strike the shores of the Arabian Peninsula or tend to recurve to the NE towards India and Pakistan. Some of the cyclones that form in the Bay of Bengal in October and November move westward across South India into the Arabian Sea. Both in the Arabian Sea and the Bay of Bengal, October has the highest frequency of cyclones. Their frequency decreases in November and they are rare in December and January, none having been recorded in February and March. After the middle of April the likelihood of a cyclone begins to increase. Two powerful cyclones occurred in the Arabian Sea in 2020. Severe Cyclonic Storm Nisarga affected the west coast of India in early June and Very Severe Cyclonic Storm Gati struck the Gulf of Aden in late November.

IN30 Routes in the Arabian Sea

• IN31 India to Red Sea

BEST TIME: | January to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | May to July, September to December |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | I3 Voyages from South East Asia to the Mediterranean |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Red Sea Pilot. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Panaji 15°29.7’N, 73 °48.7’E | Panaji SW 15°27.6’N, 73°45.5’E | Mormugao W 15°27.5’N, 73°38.0’E |  |  |
Cochin | Cochin W | Gulf E |  |  |
9°58.3’N, 76°15.4’E | 9°58.0’N, 76°10.5’E | 14°28.0’N, 54°19.0’E |  |  |
|  | Gulf W |  |  |
|  | 12°23.0’N, 45°46.0’E |  |  |
|  | Aden SE 12°42.0’N, 45°03.0’E | Tarshayn W 12°46.5’N, 44°57.5’E | Aden 12°47.5’N, 44°58.0’E | 1700/1883
|  | Djibouti NE 11°43.0’N, 43°21.5’E | Heron N 11°38.5’N, 43°8.0’E | Djibouti 11°36.3’N, 43°08.0’E | 1809/1991

At the height of the NE monsoon, from December to the beginning of March, a direct route to the Red Sea can be sailed from anywhere on the west coast of India. After the middle of March, the winds are less constant and there is a higher percentage of calms in the Arabian Sea. Towards the end of the NE monsoon, choosing the best route through this area becomes crucial as there is an increased chance of contrary winds close to Socotra Island.

From Cochin, the route runs due west through the Nine Degree Channel staying south of Kalpeni and Suheli Par. The latter is an atoll with a well-protected lagoon. From there, a course can be set for the middle of the Gulf of Aden. The recommended waypoint is equidistant from the Somali and Yemeni coasts, both of which should be passed at a safe distance. The recommended route continues along the axis of the Gulf of Aden to the point where boats bound for Aden can set a course for the port of Aden, but should not close with the Yemeni coast too soon. A marked channel leads into the Inner Harbour. Aden port control should be called on channel 16 before entering the buoyed channel. Visiting yachts are normally directed to the anchorage west of the customs wharf. Boats bound for Djibouti should alter course for the Gulf of Tadjura and pass south of the Musha Islands. A marked channel leads into the port of Djibouti. On arrival, boats normally anchor in the area close to the former yacht club. The various authorities are in the nearby commercial harbour and must be visited to complete entry formalities.

In recent years, Djibouti has become the preferred landfall on this route and a convenient place to prepare for a passage through the Red Sea. Provisioning is very good and there is an adequate range of repair facilities. Djibouti also has the advantage of regular flights to Paris, making crew changes easier.

After the middle of March, the winds in the approaches to the Gulf of Aden may start turning to SW. In the past, sailing boats normally took a route between Socotra and the African coast, but such an alternative should not be attempted as long as the situation both in the vicinity of Socotra Island and along the Somali coast continues to be considered unsafe. A direct passage across the North Indian Ocean is virtually impossible during the SW monsoon, from May to September, when the only alternative is to make a long detour south of the equator via the Chagos Archipelago. This route passes NE of the Seychelles and recrosses the equator in about longitude 53º00’E. See also route IT16.

Sailors are advised that stopping in any of the islands in the British Indian Ocean Territory (Chagos) is strictly forbidden without having obtained a permit in advance from the BIOT authorities. Those stopping without permission, even in an emergency, face a very high fine and confiscation of their yacht. Contact: BIOTAdmin@fco. gov.uk.

• IN32 Oman to Red Sea

BEST TIME: | January to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | May to July, September to December |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Red Sea Pilot. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Salalah 16°56.6’N, 54°00.5’E | Salalah E 16°57.0’N, 54°02.0’E | Raysut SE 16°55.0’N, 54°00.0’E Sajir S 16°41.0’N, 53°37.5’E Fartak S 15°28.0’N, 52°24.0’E |  |  |
|  | Gulf W |  |  |
|  | 12°23.0’N, 45°46.0’E |  |  |
|  | Aden SE | Tarshayn W | Aden | 614
|  | 12°42.0’N, 45°03.0’E | 12°46.5’N, 44°57.5’E | 12°47.5’N, 44°58.0’E |
|  | Djibouti NE | Heron N | Djibouti | 723
|  | 11°43.0’N, 43°21.5’E | 11°38.5’N, 43°8.0’E | 11°36.3’N, 43°08.0’E |

Excellent sailing conditions prevail during the NE monsoon, January and February being the best months to head for the Red Sea. Because of a higher percentage of calms near land, the initial course should lead offshore. The proportion of SW winds increases towards the end of March when a contrary current also starts making itself felt parallel to the Arabian coast. The passage should not be undertaken during the SW monsoon, when strong headwinds make it almost impossible to reach the Red Sea along this route. During the transitional period between monsoons, the area is subject to tropical storms.

Having passed south of Ras (Cape) Raysut, an initial course is set to also pass south of Ras Sajir and Ras Fartak. From the latter, the offshore route runs parallel to the Yemeni coast all the way to the approaches to Aden. Aden port control should be called on channel 16 before entering the buoyed channel. Visiting yachts are normally directed to the anchorage west of the customs wharf. Stopping in Aden or anywhere in Yemen should absolutely be avoided before the hostilities have ceased and the situation returns to normal.

Boats bound for Djibouti will make landfall NE of Djibouti. From that point, a buoyed channel leads south of the Musha Islands in the Gulf of Tadjoura, in the approaches to the port of Djibouti. A marked channel leads into the port of Djibouti. On arrival, boats normally anchor in the area close to the former yacht club. The various authorities are in the nearby commercial harbour and must be visited to complete entry formalities. In recent years, Djibouti has become the preferred landfall on this route and a convenient place to prepare for a passage through the Red Sea. Provisioning is very good and there is an adequate range of repair facilities. Djibouti also has the advantage of regular flights to Paris, making crew changes easier.

• IN33 Red Sea to Sri Lanka

BEST TIME: | August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | May to July, September to December |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | I6 Eastbound Voyages from the Red Sea |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Indian Ocean Cruising Guide. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Djibouti 11°36.3’N, 43°08.0’E Aden 12°47.5’N, 44°58.0’E | Heron N 11°38.5’N, 43°08.0’E Tarshayn W 12°46.5’N, 44°57.5’E | Djibouti NE 11°43.0’N, 43°21.5’E Aden SE 12°42.0’N, 45°03.0’E |  |  |
|  | Gulf W |  |  |
|  | 12°23.0’N, 45°46.0’E Gulf E 14°28.0’N, 54°19.0’E Eight 7°42.0’N, 72°57.5’E |  |  |
|  | Galle S 6°00.5’N, 80°13.3’E | Magalle W 6°01.9’N, 80°13.4’E | Magalle 6°01.9’N, 80°13.7’E | 2293/2184

Choosing the time for this passage presents a major dilemma, as the cyclone-free months of July and August also have the highest frequency of gales. As stated earlier, the frequency of strong winds in July just to the east of Socotra is similar to that off Cape Horn in summer. As passages across the Arabian Sea can be extremely rough at the height of the SW monsoon, only September offers the prospect of a reasonably comfortable voyage. The transition periods between the two monsoons cannot be recommended either because of the risk of cyclones, although an April passage has a good chance of fair winds and a lower risk factor.

The course from either Djibouti or Aden passes well to the north of Socotra to avoid the strong west-setting current along the African coast in the Gulf of Aden. An offshore route that follows the axis of the Gulf of Aden is recommended in order to avoid sailing too close to either the Somali or Yemeni coasts. Once clear of the Gulf of Aden, a direct course can be set for Sri Lanka, which can be reached through either the Nine or Eight Degree Channels. Whichever channel is used it should be approached with caution, especially at night or in the thick weather that is sometimes associated with the SW monsoon.

Landfall will be made just outside Galle Harbour, from where the West Channel leads to the small port in the NE part of the bay. The town of Galle is on the west side of the large bay, whereas the port used by cruising boats is in a part of the town called Magalle. The services of a local agent are required to complete the formalities and it is advisable to contact an agent before arrival. Port control is supposed to be contacted on channel 16 when 15 miles from Galle. The small port at Magalle cannot be entered at night and those arriving after office hours should anchor close to the breakwater in an area marked by yellow buoys.

Rather than sail this direct passage across the breadth of the Arabian Sea, a more attractive alternative might be provided by a northern route that calls at Oman and possibly also India. While such a detour would lengthen the overall distance travelled, it has the advantage of calling at some interesting places along the way. However, an even more important advantage is the opportunity of being able to choose the most favourable time to sail the various legs. For more details see IN22 (Oman) and IN34 (India).

• IN34 Oman to Sri Lanka

BEST TIME: | January to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | May to July, September to December |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Indian Ocean Cruising Guide. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Salalah 16°56.6’N, 54 °00.5’E | Salalah E 16°57.0’N, 54°02.0’E | Oman SE 16°52.0’N, 54°11.0’E |  |  |
|  | [Mormugao W] 15°27.5’N, 73°38.0’E Nine NW 9°53.0’N, 72°12.0’E | Panaji SW 15°27.6’N, 73°45.5’E | Panaji 15°29.7’N, 73 °48.7’E | 1146
|  | [Nine N 9°45.0’N, 73°34.5’E Cochin SW] 9°51.0’N, 76°06.0’E Tangasseri 8°52.0’N, 76°24.0’E Comorin 7°45.0’N, 77°20.0’E Nine S 9°00.0’N, 73°00.0’E | Cochin W 9°58.0’N, 76°10.5’E | Cochin 9°58.3’N, 76°15.4’E | 1386
|  | Galle S 6°00.5’N, 80°13.3’E | Magalle W 6°01.9’N, 80°13.4’E | Magalle 6°01.9’N, 80°13.7’E | 2217

During the NE monsoon, weather and sailing conditions in the North Indian Ocean are at their most pleasant. Favourable winds will be encountered along the best part of this route as the winds off the Indian landmass are mostly NW and N. The passage to Sri Lanka can be sailed entirely offshore, or via India. Two attractive landfalls are suggested, with the port of Mormugao (formerly Goa) lying almost due east from Oman. As the commercial harbour is busy with large ships, yachts are advised to clear in at the smaller port of Panaji (formerly Panjim), where entry formalities can be completed. The recommended anchorage is next to the port office in the Mandovi River, close to the large bridge.

If the winds along this northerly route turn out to be too close for comfort, the alternative is to make landfall further south and enter India at the port of Cochin. Having made landfall SW of the entrance into Cochin Harbour, arriving yachts should contact Cochin port authority on channel 16 when entering the shipping channel. Cruising boats are normally asked to anchor off the north tip of Willingdon Island, where a customs launch will come to start entry formalities. After formalities have been completed, it is possible to move to the marina on Bolgatty Island. Foreign nationals must have a visa, which can be obtained online. This type of e-visa is only valid for arrivals at five designated ports: Chennai, Cochin, Goa, Mangalore and Mumbai.

From Cochin, the route runs parallel to the coast to Cape Cormorin, the southern extremity of the Indian subcontinent. From that point, the route turns SE to make landfall just outside Galle Harbour, from where the West Channel leads into the large bay of Galle. The town of Galle is on the west side of the bay, whereas the small port is in the NE corner in a suburb called Magalle. The services of a local agent are required to complete the formalities and it is advisable to contact an agent before arrival. Port control is supposed to be contacted on channel 16 when 15 miles from Galle. The small port at Magalle cannot be entered at night and those arriving after office hours should anchor close to the breakwater in an area marked by yellow buoys.

• IN35 Red Sea to Maldives

BEST TIME: | August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | May to July, September to December |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | I6 Eastbound Voyages from the Red Sea |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Maldives Cruising Guide. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Djibouti 11°36.3’N, 43°08.0’E Aden 12°47.5’N, 44°58.0’E | Heron N 11°38.5’N, 43°08.0’E Tarshayn W 12°46.5’N, 44°57.5’E | Djibouti NE 11°43.0’N, 43°21.5’E Aden SE 12°42.0’N, 45°03.0’E |  |  |
|  | Gulf W |  |  |
|  | 12°23.0’N, 45°46.0’E Gulf E 14°28.0’N, 54°19.0’E Maldives W 4°58.0’N, 71°40.0’E Goidhoo W 4°49.5’N, 72°38.0’E |  |  |
|  | Thodoo N | Malé W | Malé | 1976/1867
|  | 4°33.0’N, 72°58.5’E | 4°10.0’N, 73°21.0’E | 4°10.0’N, 73°30.0’E |

Directions are very similar to those for route IN33 and a course for the Maldives should only be set after having passed well to the north of Socotra. The low-lying Maldives should be approached with extreme caution because of the strong current that sets on to the islands during the SW monsoon. It is indeed crucial that the recommended waypoint west of the Maldives is reached in the morning so that the remaining distance to Malé can be covered during daylight hours.

The route passes west and south of the Goidhoo Atoll and then north of the Thodoo Atoll to reach the Malé Passage, a dredged channel leading into the North Malé Atoll. The coastguard should be called on channel 16, who will pass on the vessel’s particulars to the port authority before the boat is allowed to proceed. Visiting yachts are expected to use the services of a local agent to complete formalities, and it is advisable to have contacted such an agent in advance. In that case, the agent will deal with the necessary formalities and will advise where to proceed on arrival. A special cruising permit is required for those who plan to spend longer in the Maldives.

• IN36 Red Sea to India

BEST TIME: | August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | May to July, September to December |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | I6 Eastbound Voyages from the Red Sea |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Indian Ocean Cruising Guide. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IN36A |  |  |  |  |
Djibouti 11°36.3’N, 43°08.0’E Aden 12°47.5’N, 44°58.0’E | Heron N 11°38.5’N, 43°8.0’E Tarshayn W 12°46.5’N, 44°57.5’E | Djibouti NE 11°43.0’N, 43°21.5’E Aden SE 12°42.0’N, 45°03.0’E |  |  |
|  | Gulf W |  |  |
|  | 12°23.0’N, 45°46.0’E Fartak S 15°28.0’N, 52°24.0’E |  |  |
|  | Sajir S |  |  |
|  | 16°41.0’N, 53°37.5’E |  |  |
|  | Raysut SE | Salalah E | Salalah | 723/614
|  | 16°55.0’N, 54°0.0’E | 16°57.0’N, 54°02.0’E | 16°56.6’N, 54°00.5’E |
|  | Mormugao W | Panaji SW | Panaji | 1809/1700
|  | 15°27.5’N, 73°38.0’E | 15°27.6’N, 73°45.5’E | 15°29.7’N, 73 °48.7’E |
Route IN36B |  |  |  |  |
Djibouti Aden | Heron N Tarshayn W | Djibouti NE Aden SE |  |  |
|  | Gulf W |  |  |
|  | Gulf E 14°28.0’N, 54°19.0’E Nine NW 9°53.0’N, 72°12.0’E |  |  |
|  | Nine N | Cochin W | Cochin | 1991/1883
|  | 9°45.0’N, 73°34.5’E | 9°58.0’N, 76°10.5’E | 9°58.3’N, 76°15.4’E |

Most boats sailing along one of the above routes will do so in late August or September towards the end of the SW monsoon, but before the onset of the cyclone season. This is indeed the time when the best conditions for a west to east crossing of the North Indian Ocean will probably be encountered. The one major disadvantage is that the Red Sea will be sailed at possibly the worst time of year, as summer in that area has extremely high temperatures. This is one of the main reasons why some sailors have attempted to make the passage earlier in the year during the NE monsoon. The major hurdle at such a time is getting out of the Gulf of Aden, where one will have to fight not just steady head winds, but also a strong west-setting current. The traditional way of dealing with this is to tack up the coast of Yemen as far as Oman, or even further east, where the NE winds will gradually veer to N and NW, thus providing a better sailing angle. If tacking out of the Gulf of Aden, neither the Yemeni nor Somali coasts should be approached too close for safety reasons. If passing close to Oman, a stop at Port Salalah is recommended. Port control should be contacted on channel 16 one hour before ETA to give notice of arrival, and again before entering the harbour. Berthing instructions will be given, as will information on where to complete formalities. The services of a local agent must be used to deal with entry formalities and other matters. This is a good base to leave the boat for those who wish to visit the interior, but arrangements must be made to have someone look after the boat during your absence. As the number of local yachts is increasing, there is a reasonable range of repair facilities.

Sailing east from Oman, a convenient Indian port of arrival is Mormugao. As the commercial harbour is busy with large ships, yachts are advised to clear in at the smaller port of Panaji (formerly Panjim), where entry formalities can be completed. The recommended anchorage is next to the port office in the Mandovi River, just short of the bridge. The other alternative is to make landfall further south and enter India at the port of Cochin as described in route IN23.

The alternative is to sail directly to Cochin, in which case landfall should be made SW of the entrance into Cochin Harbour. Arriving yachts should contact Cochin port authority on channel 16 when entering the shipping channel. Cruising boats are normally asked to anchor off the north tip of Willingdon Island, where a customs launch will come to start entry formalities. After formalities have been completed, it is possible to move to the marina on Bolgatty Island.

Although Aden has been listed as a possible port of departure, it is stressed that Aden and any port in Yemen should be absolutely avoided while hostilities continue in that country.

• IN37 India to Oman

BEST TIME: | January to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | May to July, September to December |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Indian Ocean Cruising Guide. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Panaji 15°29.7’N, 73°48.7’E Cochin 9°58.3’N, 76°15.4’E | Panaji SW 15°27.6’N, 73°45.5’E Cochin W 9°58.0’N, 76°10.5’E | Mormugao W 15°27.5’N, 73°38.0’E Nine N 9°45.0’N, 73°34.5’E Nine NW 9°53.0’N, 72°12.0’E |  |  |
|  | Oman SE | Salalah E | Salalah | 1146/1386
|  | 16°52.0’N, 54°11.0’E | 16°57.0’N, 54°02.0’E | 16°56.6’N, 54°00.5’E |

During the NE monsoon, weather conditions in the North Indian Ocean are at their most pleasant, but this description does not necessarily apply to sailing conditions on this route as the winds off the Indian landmass are mostly NW and N. The direction of the wind may be more favourable during the SW monsoon, but the risk of cyclones is too high, making the transitional period between winter and summer the obvious choice.

A convenient port of departure during the NE monsoon is Mormugao (Goa) as the winds will be at a more favourable angle than from more southern ports. The direct northerly route from Mormugao passes well to the north of all dangers off the Indian coast to make landfall SE of Salalah.

The direct route from Cochin passes right through the low islands and shallows of the Lakshadweep Archipelago, so the recommended route heads initially due west through the Nine Degree Channel, staying south of Kalpeni and Suheli Par. Occasionally boats have been able to stop briefly in the latter, which is an atoll with a well-protected lagoon. Once all dangers have been cleared, a direct course leads across the Arabian Sea to make landfall off the Omani coast. Salalah port control should be contacted on channel 16 one hour before ETA to give notice of arrival. Before entering Salalah, port control should be called for berthing instructions and also for information on where to complete formalities. The services of a local agent must be used to deal with entry formalities and other matters.

TRANSEQUATORIAL ROUTES IN THE INDIAN OCEAN

IT10 | • | Northbound Routes
IT20 | • | Southbound Routes

From Indonesia in the east to Kenya in the west, the equator is crossed by a variety of routes. Because of the finely matched seasons in the two hemispheres of the Indian Ocean, with careful planning it is possible to cruise throughout the year, always having the benefit of favourable weather. Over the centuries the Arab dhows set a perfect example of how to use the prevailing weather conditions to best advantage. Although their trading routes do not always coincide with those used by modern cruising yachts, today’s sailors have much to learn from those skilled mariners, some of whom are still plying the coasts of Arabia and East Africa. The official dates of the tropical cyclone season in the South Indian Ocean are from 15 November to 30 April, with the exception of Mauritius and the Seychelles where it ends on 15 May. For safety reasons the cyclone season for the entire area of the South Indian Ocean should be considered to extend from November to May.

Windgrams showing a summary of wind conditions along some popular cruising routes

Cocos Keeling to Galle, September
Bali to Singapore, October
Galle to Mauritius, May
Mahé (Seychelles) to Phuket, September

IT10 • Northbound routes

• | IT11 | Bali to Singapore | 503
• | IT12 | Bali to Sri Lanka | 505
• | IT13 | Northbound from Cocos Keeling | 506
• | IT14 | Northbound from Chagos | 507
• | IT15 | Chagos to Southeast Asia | 508
• | IT16 | Seychelles to Red Sea | 509
• | IT17 | East Africa to Red Sea | 510
• | IT18 | Seychelles to Southeast Asia | 511
• | IT19 | Australia to Southeast Asia | 512

Transequatorial voyages in the Indian Ocean were undertaken long before those in any other ocean. For centuries, Arab dhows sailed from the Persian Gulf to the East African coast to trade, sailing south in one monsoon and back in the other, and until the middle of the last century such dhows could still be seen in Kenya and Tanzania. The two seasons on either side of the equator are perfectly matched. North of the equator, NE winds prevail from December to April, while south of the Line, SE trade winds blow steadily from April to October. The wide band of the northbound current runs close to the African shore and can be augmented by those SE trade winds to reach up to 4 knots. Therefore it makes sense to plan any northbound passages to coincide with this season. During the NE monsoon, when winds from the NE and E prevail, this current is slacker.

Those planning a northbound transequatorial passage should time it to take best advantage of the monsoons on either side of the equator. From December to March, when the ITCZ moves south, the NE monsoon is deflected across the equator to give a NW flow of wind. This NW monsoon is not so consistent and blows most strongly in January and February. This period is also the cyclone season in the South Indian Ocean, but these storms normally form south of Chagos and move in a S or SE direction. South Indian Ocean cyclones very rarely track north towards the equator, although Chagos has been affected by at least one tropical storm in recent years. The major concern on these routes is not the weather, but rather the threat of piracy in some parts of the Indian Ocean, which has kept cruising boats away from the critical area. Although by 2021 the situation showed signs of improvement, passages along the Somali coast and close to Socotra should still be avoided until this area is considered safe.

IT10 Northbound transequatorial routes in the Indian Ocean

• IT11 Bali to Singapore

BEST TIME: | May to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | I2 Bali to South East Asia |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Southeast Asia Pilot, Cruising Guide to Southeast Asia (Vols I & II). |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IT11A |  |  |  |  |
Benoa X 8°44.7’S, 115°12.7’E | Benoa E 8°45.0’S, 115°14.7’E | Nusa Penida NW 8°38.0’S, 115°24.0’E Bali E 8°22.5’S, 115°47.0’E Kamudi NE 7°04.0’S, 114°52.5’E Bawean NE 5°32.5’S, 112°54.5’E Karimata S 3°36.4’S, 109°46.2’E Pesemut E 2°24.0’S, 109°06.0’E Karimata NW 2°02.0’S, 108°20.0’E Lingga E 0°43.0’N, 104°20.0’E |  |  |
|  | Riouw Strait S |  | Singapore X | 992
|  | 0°02.0’N, 106°23.0’E |  | 1°16.0’N, 103°45.0’E |
|  | Merapas E 1°01.0’N, 105°22.0’E | Singapore SE 1°17.0’N, 104°36.0’E | Singapore X | 1056
Route IT11B |  |  |  |  |
Benoa X | Benoa E | Nusa Penida NW |  |  |
|  | Bali E |  |  |
|  | Kamudi NE |  |  |
|  | Bawean NE |  |  |
|  | Bangka SW |  |  |
|  | 3°13.0’S, 106°18.0’E |  |  |
|  | Bangka NW |  |  |
|  | 1°57.0’S, 105°00.0’E |  |  |
|  | Berhala S |  |  |
|  | 0°56.0’S, 104°23.0’E |  |  |
|  | Berhala N |  |  |
|  | 0°32.5’S, 103°59.0’E |  |  |
|  | Datu E 0°00.0’N, 103°54.0’E |  |  |
|  | Durian S |  | Singapore X | 1028
|  | 0°29.0’N, 103°46.5’E |  |  |

There are two main routes that can be sailed from Bali to Singapore, either direct through the Karimata Strait (IT11A) or by the more indirect route via the Bangka Strait (IT11B). The first route is faster and can be done nonstop as it is mostly offshore; the second route is slower and offers the possibility of overnight stops if the winds are not favourable. For both routes the best time is during the South Indian SE monsoon and the North Indian SW monsoon, between May and September. During the transitional months of April, October and early November, winds are more variable and calms frequent. During these months there is also a high frequency of rain squalls, often of torrential proportions, which make it difficult to anchor every night in safety and make the offshore route more attractive.

On leaving Benoa, the course leads NE through the Lombok Strait where very strong currents can be experienced. During the SE monsoon, the main direction of the currents is southerly, although at certain times a favourable current sets NE along the east coast of Bali. This current occurs approximately at the time of the moon’s transit and lasts for two or three hours, so it is worth timing a departure for two hours before the transit and leaving Benoa at slack water.

From Benoa, the initial route sets off in a NE direction to pass Bali’s easternmost point. From there, the route turns NW to cross the Bali Sea to pass through the 10-mile-wide gap between Goagoa Island and Karang Takat Reef. Because of the various dangers that need to be passed in the early stages of this passage, a good tactic is to leave Benoa around noon so as to leave Bali behind before nightfall, cross the Bali Sea at night and arrive off the Kamudi waypoint the following morning.

Having reached the Java Sea, the route continues in a NW direction and passes east of Bawean Island to the southern entrance into the Karimata Strait. This wide body of water west of Borneo (Kalimantan) is encumbered by many unlit islets and reefs. As the positions of some of these do not necessarily agree with GPS coordinates, the area should be treated with great caution. Strong currents of up to 2 knots have been reported, their direction depending on the monsoon and setting predominantly N or NW from May to September and S or SE from November to March. The route continues in a NW direction and crosses the equator at a point where a decision needs to be made whether to reach Singapore by passing east or west of Bintan Island. In the former case, Bintan Island is passed to the east before the course can be altered for the Singapore Strait. The area E and NE of Bintan should be passed in daytime as there are often fishing nets set in those waters. At night it is therefore advisable to stay further offshore. There is a choice of channels at the eastern entrance into the Singapore Strait. Coming from the SE, the most convenient is the South Channel, between the north coast of Bintan and Horsburgh Reef.

An alternative route to Singapore passes through the Riouw (Riau) Strait, an intricate but well-marked waterway, which reaches Singapore by passing close to the Indonesian island of Bantam. Close to this route, on the northernmost point of Bantam, is Nongsa Point Marina, located within striking distance of Singapore.

Also approaching Singapore from the south is route IT11B, which leads through the Bangka Strait, the narrows between Sumatra and Bangka Islands. Directions for reaching the Java Sea are similar to those given above. Once the Java Sea has been reached, from Bawean Island the course turns NW to make landfall at the southern entrance into the Bangka Strait. The direction of the wind in the strait is usually parallel to the coast, although strong SW winds can be experienced towards the end of the SE monsoon. Because of the nature of the tidal currents in the strait, it is better to stay close to the coast of Sumatra during the SE monsoon. Because of the difficulty of sailing through the Bangka Strait at night, it may be advisable to anchor for the night and pass through the strait in daylight.

North of the Bangka Strait it is possible to follow either a western or eastern route to Singapore. The latter leads east of Lingga Island to the Riouw Strait and because it is easily navigable it is used by most boats. The western route follows the coast of Sumatra and reaches Singapore from SW through the Durian Strait and the Phillip Channel. Sailing this western route may appeal to those who wish to avoid the heavy traffic in the Singapore Strait by heading directly for Raffles Marina, which is a convenient place to complete formalities for Singapore, and also a good departure point for destinations in or north of the Malacca Strait.

All yachts visiting Singapore are required to engage a licensed agent in advance of arrival to deal with formalities both on arrival and departure. The agent must be contacted not later than 12 hours prior to arrival to commence the entry procedure. Raffles Marina, on the west shore of Singapore Island, is the most convenient place to make your arrival, although there are several other marinas in and around Singapore. Boats arriving at night must proceed to the quarantine area: Western Anchorage, located SE of Sentosa Island. Because of the heavy traffic, night arrivals are not advisable.

• IT12 Bali to Sri Lanka

BEST TIME: | August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | April to July, September to December (North Indian Ocean), November to May (South Indian Ocean)
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Indian Ocean Cruising Guide. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IT12A |  |  |  |  |
Benoa X 8°44.7’S, 115°12.7’E | Benoa E 8°45.0’S, 115°14.7’E | Bali S 8°51.5’S, 115°16.0’E Sunda S 7°10.0’S, 103°42.0’E Sri Lanka S 5°50.0’N, 80°35.0’E |  |  |
|  | Galle SE | Magalle W | Magalle | 2274
|  | 6°00.0’N, 80°14.0’E | 6°01.9’N, 80°13.4’E | 6°01.9’N, 80°13.7’E |
Route IT12B |  |  |  |  |
Benoa X | Benoa E | Bali S Christmas NW] | [Christmas NE 10°23.0’S, 105°42.0’E | Flying Fish 10°25.4’S, 105°40.3’E | 585
|  | 10°22.0’S, 105°36.0’E Sunda S |  |  |
|  | Sanding SE |  | Padang X | 1139
|  | 3°32.0’S, 100°46.5’E |  | 0°57.7’S, 100°20.7’E |
|  | Siberut NE 0°48.0’S, 98°55.0’E Siberut NW 0°53.0’S, 97°57.0’E [Sumatra NW] 5°49.0’N, 94°20.0’E Sri Lanka S |  |  |
|  | Galle SE | Magalle W | Magalle | 2452

This is a more direct way to reach the North Indian Ocean than the previous route and may appeal to those who wish to avoid sailing via Singapore and the Malacca Strait. The disadvantage of this route is the difficulty of matching the favourable seasons on either side of the equator. Bali is a good place to prepare for this passage as it has a reasonable range of facilities, including a marina, as well as an international airport.

Departing from Bali it is best to head immediately offshore and sail well to the south of Java. The route passes close to Christmas Island where a stop may be considered. The Australian Border Force must be notified 96 hours prior to arrival at Christmas Island. Details of the boat, crew, last port, if there are animals or firearms on board, and ETA should be given by phone +61 2 6246 1325 or emailed to yachtreport@homeaffairs.gov.au.

In September or early October, the SE trade winds will provide favourable winds to about latitude 5ºS, but because the winds tend to be more consistent further south it is advisable not to set a direct course for Sri Lanka until longitude 90ºE has been reached, as both contrary winds and currents are likely to be encountered closer to Sumatra. The transitional period from the SW to the NE monsoon provides the best conditions for this route. If the passage is made at the height of the SW monsoon, all necessary westing should be made south of latitude 5ºS, as strong westerly winds will make it very difficult to reach Sri Lanka on a direct course. Depending on weather conditions, the equator should be crossed as far west as possible and in any case not sooner than meridian 85ºE has been reached. From this point, a direct course can be set for Galle.

Route IT12B is better suited to being sailed towards the end of the NE monsoon, which also coincides with the end of the cyclone season in the South Indian Ocean, although such tropical storms do not pose a serious threat in the areas crossed by this route. The same route as IT12A could be sailed as far as the Sunda Strait. From that point, rather than attempt to make the required northing on an offshore route, the same could be achieved by sailing an inshore route that stays east of Sumatra’s chain of outer islands. The largest town on Sumatra’s west coast is Padang, where a stop could be made for fuel and provisions. Depending on weather conditions, a direct course for Sri Lanka can be set either from Siberut or even further north if the wind direction should warrant it.

This passage should not be attempted at the height of the NE monsoon when contrary NW winds may be encountered, especially south of the equator. Regardless of whether the offshore or inshore route is sailed, the course should be changed for Sri Lanka only after favourable conditions can be found north of the equator.

Landfall in Sri Lanka will be made SE of Galle Harbour. The main port of Galle is on the west side of the large bay, whereas the small port of Magalle, where entry formalities are completed, is in the NE corner of the large bay. The services of a local agent are required to complete the formalities and it is advisable to contact an agent before arrival. Port control is supposed to be contacted on channel 16 when 15 miles from Galle. The small port at Magalle cannot be entered at night and those arriving after office hours should anchor close to the breakwater in an area marked by yellow buoys.

• IT13 Northbound from Cocos Keeling

BEST TIME: | August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May (South Indian Ocean), April to July, September to December (North Indian Ocean) |
CHARTS: | BA 4707, US 71 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Indian Ocean Cruising Guide | , Southeast Asia Pilot. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IT13A |  |  |  |  |
Direction 12°05.5’S, 96°52.8’E | Direction W 12°05.5’S, 96°52.0’E | Keeling N 12°03.4’S, 96°52.7’E Sri Lanka S 5°50.0’N, 80°35.0’E |  |  |
|  | Galle SE 6°00.0’N, 80°14.0’E | Magalle W 6°01.9’N, 80°13.4’E | Magalle 6°01.9’N, 80°13.7’E | 1470
Route IT13B |  |  |  |  |
Direction | Direction W | Keeling N Sumatra NW 5°49.0’N, 94°20.0’E |  |  |
|  | Rondo N | Sabang W | Sabang | 1078
|  | 6°06.5’N, 95°07.0’E | 5°53.0’N, 95°18.0’E | 5°53.2’N, 95°19.0’E |
|  |  | Langkawi SW | Kuah X | 1113
|  |  | 6°15.0’N, 99°41.3’E | 6°18.3’N, 99°50.0’E |
Route IT13C |  |  |  |  |
Direction | Direction W | Keeling N |  |  |
|  | Nicobar S | Phuket S | Ao Chalong X | 1191
|  | 6°27.0’N, 93°55.0’E | 7°44.0’N, 98°20.5’E | 7°48.0’N, 98°21.0’E |

As northbound passages from Cocos Keeling can be made at virtually any time of the year, their timing will be dictated by the optimum, or desired, time of arrival at the chosen port of destination. Because passages later in the year risk encountering northerly winds north of the equator, it may be a good idea to make this passage while the SW monsoon is still in force in the North Indian Ocean. Passages in October may encounter light variable winds and erratic currents between latitude 3ºS and the equator, with similar conditions prevailing north of the equator all the way to Sri Lanka.

Similar criteria apply to passages bound for destinations on the west coast of Malaysia and Thailand, and the transitional period between the SW and NE monsoons is the best time to make these as it coincides with the end of the safe season in the South Indian Ocean and the start of the winter season at the point of arrival. One other matter that must be borne in mind, as it will have a major bearing on the timing, is the cyclone season in the Bay of Bengal.

One other phenomenon that affects these routes is the fact that they cross three different currents, none of which can be predicted with complete accuracy. The route runs first through the west-setting South Equatorial Current, its effect probably being cancelled out on nearing the equator by the east-setting Equatorial Countercurrent. The currents north of the equator depend on the state of the monsoon, setting east during the SW monsoon and west during the NE monsoon. However, it does appear that the combined set of the currents is usually to the east and boats making this passage usually find themselves further east than expected. Finally, all these routes cross the doldrums, although the belt of calms or light winds between the SE trade winds and the monsoon prevailing north of the equator is not very wide and sometimes the wind systems merge into each other almost without a break. During August and September the SE trade winds reach as far as latitude 5ºS, gradually becoming SW.

On leaving South Cocos Keeling, the direct route to Sri Lanka diverges immediately to the NNW, whereas boats bound for Southeast Asia will sail due north to the north of Sumatra. Taking into account all the factors mentioned above, boats bound for Galle will make landfall on the south coast of Sri Lanka. Arrival directions are described in route IT12. Having reached the northern tip of Sumatra, those sailing any of the other routes should refer to route AN25 for detailed arrival information on the various ports of arrival.

• IT14 Northbound from Chagos

BEST TIME: | August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May (South Indian Ocean), April to July, September to December (North Indian Ocean) |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Indian Ocean Cruising Guide. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IT14A |  |  |  |  |
Salomon X 5°19.3’S, 72°14.5’E | Pass N 5°17.5’S, 72°14.2’E | Salomon NE 5°16.5’S, 72°15.5’E |  |  |
|  | Speaker E | Addu S | Gan | 286
|  | 4°55.0’S, 72°29.0’E | 0°43.5’S, 73°11.0’E | 0°41.2’S, 73°10.0’E |
Route IT14B |  |  |  |  |
Salomon X | Pass N | Salomon NE Speaker E |  |  |
|  | Galle S | Magalle W | Magalle | 830
|  | 6°00.5’N, 80°13.3’E | 6°01.9’N, 80°13.4’E | 6°01.9’N, 80°13.7’E |

The strategy for this passage depends entirely on the state of the monsoon north of the equator. During the SW monsoon, from May to Sepember, it is probably best to try and sail a direct course for Sri Lanka and only compensate for the set of the current after having crossed the equator. Attention should be paid to the strong currents that set around the northern part of the Chagos Archipelago. Although the winds can be expected to be light at the beginning of the passage, the effect of the monsoon should make itself felt on nearing the equator, with winds veering gradually from south to southwest and finally west. The one risk associated with this timing is the possibility of encountering a cyclone in or near Sri Lanka, as tropical storms occasionally affect the island during June and especially July. For this reason, this passage should be timed to coincide with the safe season north of the equator. Most of the comments concerning the previous route (IT13) also apply to this route and may be found helpful when planning your passage.

As the route to Sri Lanka passes very close to the Maldives, a stop in the southernmost atoll may be considered, especially as Gan is an official port of entry.

The initial course passes close to the east of Speaker Reef. If a stop at the Addu Atoll is intended, the course continues almost due north to make landfall south of the South Pass leading into the deep lagoon. Port control should be contacted on channel 16 and boats are normally directed to anchor in the inner harbour to complete formalities.

Boats bound for the capital Malé have the choice of sailing east or west of the chain of atolls. As the currents set towards the islands, it is probably safer to sail in their lee, west during the NE monsoon and east during the SW monsoon. At all times, allowance should be made for the currents and the fact that their set does not necessarily agree with the direction of the monsoon.

From the Addu Atoll, the route to Sri Lanka (IT14B) should keep well to the east of the Foammulah Atoll. On direct passages from Chagos to Sri Lanka that are sailed during the NE monsoon, it is essential to make as much easting as possible south of the equator. It is recommended to cross in about longitude 82ºE so as to approach Sri Lanka from slightly east of south. Arrival directions for Galle are given in route IT12.

• IT15 Chagos to Southeast Asia

BEST TIME: | August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May (South Indian Ocean), April to July, September to December (North Indian Ocean) |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Indian Ocean Cruising Guide, Maldives Cruising Guide, Southeast Asia Pilot. |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IT15A |  |  |  |  |
Salomon X 5°19.3’S, 72°14.5’E | Pass N 5°17.5’S, 72°14.2’E | Salomon NE 5°16.5’S, 72°15.5’E Speaker E 4°55.0’S, 72°29.0’E Sumatra NW 5°49.0’N, 94°20.0’E |  |  |
|  | Rondo N | Sabang W | Sabang | 1538
|  | 6°06.5’N, 95°07.0’E | 5°53.0’N, 95°18.0’E | 5°53.2’N, 95°19.0’E |
|  |  | Langkawi SW | Kuah X | 1795
|  |  | 6°15.0’N, 99°41.3’E | 6°18.3’N, 99°50.0’E |
Route IT15B |  |  |  |  |
Salomon X | Pass N | Salomon NE Speaker E |  |  |
|  | Nicobar S | Phuket S | Ao Chalong X | 1751
|  | 6°27.0’N, 93°55.0’E | 7°44.0’N, 98°20.5’E | 7°48.0’N, 98°21.0’E |

The most favourable sailing conditions for this route can be expected during the SW monsoon when southerly winds predominate south of the equator. During the changeover period winds are much lighter and there are long periods of calms. During the NE monsoon the winds south of the equator are mostly NW. Currents in this region can be very strong and their set is difficult to predict, particularly in the transitional period between monsoons. The strongest current during the SW monsoon is the Indian Monsoon Current, which sets strongly east on both sides of the equator. Directions for these routes are similar to those outlined in IT13, which should be referred to, both for information on the weather conditions to be expected and details of the ports of arrival.

• IT16 Seychelles to Red Sea

BEST TIME: | January to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May (South Indian Ocean), April to July, September to December (North Indian Ocean) |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | I8 Northbound Voyages from South Africa |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Red Sea Pilot. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Victoria X 4°37.5’S, 55°27.5’E | Victoria N 4°37.0’S, 55°28.1’E | Victoria SE 4°36.5’S, 55°29.2’E Victoria NE 4°34.3’S, 55°30.3’E Denis W 3°41.0’S, 55°31.0’E Seychelles N 2°30.0’S, 55°28.0’E Socotra E 12°40.0’N, 55°22.0’E Socotra N 13°25.0’N, 53°23.0’E |  |  |
|  | Gulf W |  |  |
|  | 12°23.0’N, 45°46.0’E |  |  |
|  | Aden SE 12°42.0’N, 45°03.0’E | Tarshayn W 12°46.5’N, 44°57.5’E | Aden 12°47.5’N, 44°58.0’E | 1314
|  | Djibouti NE 11°43.0’N, 43°21.5’E | Heron N 11°38.5’N, 43°08.0’E | Djibouti 11°36.3’N, 43°08.0’E | 1422

The best time to make this passage is towards the end of the SW monsoon, in September or early October, when the strength of the winds begins to subside in the NW part of the Indian Ocean. At this time of year the SE trade winds reach as far north as the equator. From there, the winds become gradually SW and blow with increasing force as one approaches the Horn of Africa. This area is notorious for its high frequency of very strong winds during the SW monsoon and this is the reason why an earlier passage, during July or August, is not recommended. Even towards the end of the SW monsoon, winds can be very strong, and this fact combined with the strong currents usually produce rough seas around the Horn of Africa. In October, winds in that area will be SW or S. However, the passage must not be left too late, because NE winds start to predominate north of the equator after the second half of October.

Although better conditions may be experienced during the SW monsoon, the time of arrival in the Red Sea may not agree with most people’s plans, unless one is prepared to spend the coming winter in the Red Sea and only reach the Mediterranean the following spring. This is one of the reasons why a passage during the NE monsoon may be more logical. The start of the voyage coincides with the cyclone season in the South Indian Ocean but such storms rarely reach as far north as the Seychelles. However, weather conditions can be affected even by cyclones occurring further south. On a passage during the NE monsoon, sufficient easting should be made south of the equator so that the NE winds will be met at a better angle. Because of the strong N or NW winds that will be met on leaving the Seychelles, a NE course should be sailed so that the equator is crossed as far east as longitude 66ºE or even 68ºE. The ground lost to the east will be made up later when a better sailing angle will ensure good speeds once under the full influence of the NE monsoon. However, it may not always be necessary to make so much easting south of the equator and later passages towards the end of the NE monsoon, in late February or March, can sail a more northerly course after leaving the Seychelles and cross the equator around longitude 60ºE. From the equator, the course turns NW to pass east of Socotra. During the NE monsoon, winds in the Gulf of Aden are mostly easterly.

Having reached the Gulf of Aden, boats bound for Aden should set a course to make landfall in the approaches to that port. Aden port control should be called on channel 16 before entering the buoyed channel. Because of safety concerns neither Aden nor any other Yemeni port should be visited until the situation is considered safe.

Boats bound for Djibouti should alter course for the Gulf of Tadjura and pass south of the Musha Islands. A marked channel leads into the port of Djibouti. On arrival, boats normally anchor in the area close to the former yacht club. The various authorities are in the nearby commercial harbour and must be visited to complete entry formalities.

Because of safety concerns, a course should be sailed that stays well offshore, especially while passing Somalia. For similar reasons, although Aden has been listed, it is stressed that Aden and any port in Yemen should absolutely be avoided while hostilities continue in that country.

• IT17 East Africa to Red Sea

BEST TIME: | January to February, August |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May (South Indian Ocean), April to July, September to December (North Indian Ocean) |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Red Sea Pilot. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Mombasa 4°03.8’S, 39°40.9’E Lamu 2°18.0’S, 40°55.0’E | Mombasa W 4°04.6’S, 39°41.3’E Lamu S 2°20.0’S, 40°54.2’E | Mombasa E 4°06.7’S, 39°44.8’E Lamu E 2°20.5’S, 40°59.0’E |  |  |
|  | Somalia E |  |  |
|  | 3°29.0’N, 48°25.0’E Socotra E 12°40.0’N, 55°22.0’E Socotra N 13°25.0’N, 53°23.0’E |  |  |
|  | Gulf W |  |  |
|  | 12°23.0’N, 45°46.0’E |  |  |
|  | Aden SE 12°42.0’N, 45°03.0’E Djibouti NE 11°43.0’N, 43°21.5’E | Tarshayn W 12°46.5’N, 44°57.5’E Heron N 11°38.5’N, 43°08.0’E | Aden 12°47.5’N, 44°58.0’E Djibouti 11°36.3’N, 43°08.0’E | 1155/1046 1264/1155

This classic route of the Arab traders benefits from favourable winds throughout the SW monsoon, from May to September. However, as the winds often attain gale force during the months of July and August in the vicinity of Socotra and the Horn of Africa, the voyage is more comfortable either at the beginning or at the end of the SW monsoon. Good passages on this route have been made in August, when the winds are favourable both south and north of the equator and the strong Somali Current also gives a considerable boost to daily runs. The course runs parallel to the African coast, but because of the thick haze and poor visibility associated with the SW monsoon, particular attention must be paid to navigation.

The time of departure is critical, as the transitional period is very short and the NE monsoon can sometimes arrive before the middle of October, when both winds and current change direction. Alternatively, the passage can be made at the beginning of the SW monsoon, when winds might be lighter. Passages made at the height of the SW monsoon, in July or August, will encounter very strong winds and rough seas. Although strong, the winds will be favourable as far as the Horn of Africa, but in the Gulf of Aden strong westerly winds will make it very difficult to reach Bab el Mandeb. If this passage is made during the NE monsoon it is better to wait until the end of March, so as to arrive north of the equator at the change of monsoons. Regardless of the point of departure, some easting should be made south of the equator, which should be crossed in about longitude 53ºE. For the continuation of the voyage north of the equator refer to IT16.

Because of safety concerns, a course should be sailed that stays well offshore, especially while passing Somalia. For similar reasons, although Aden has been listed, it is stressed that Aden and any port in Yemen should absolutely be avoided while hostilities continue in that country.

• IT18 Seychelles to Southeast Asia

BEST TIME: | August |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May (South Indian Ocean), April to July, September to December (North Indian Ocean)
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Southeast Asia Pilot, Indian Ocean Cruising Guide. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IT18A Victoria X 4°37.5’S, 55°27.5’E | Victoria N 4°37.0’S, 55°28.1’E | Victoria SE 4°36.5’S, 55°29.2’E Victoria NE 4°34.3’S, 55°30.3’E Fregate S 4°37.0’S, 55°55.0’E Fregate E 4°35.0’S, 55°59.0’E Ari SW 3°25.0’N, 72°29.0’E |  |  |
|  | Ari SE 3°29.0’N, 73°04.0’E Malé E 4°10.0’N, 73°33.0’E Maldives E 4°27.0’N, 74°42.0’E | Malé W 4°10.0’N, 73°21.0’E | Malé 4°10.0’N, 73°30.0’E | 1204
|  | Galle S 6°00.5’N, 80°13.3’E Galle SE 6°00.0’N, 80°14.0’E Sri Lanka S 5°50.0’N, 80°35.0’E | Magalle W 6°01.9’N, 80°13.4’E | Magalle 6°01.9’N, 80°13.7’E | 1617
|  | Nicobar S 6°27.0’N, 93°55.0’E | Phuket S 7°44.0’N, 98°20.5’E | Ao Chalong X 7°48.0’N, 98°21.0’E | 2677
Route IT18B |  |  |  |  |
Victoria X | Victoria N | Victoria SE Victoria NE Fregate S |  |  |
|  | Fregate E Addu NE 0°34.0’S, 73°16.2’E Sumatra NW 5°49.0’N, 94°20.0’E | Addu S 0°43.5’S, 73°11.0’E | Gan 0°41.2’S, 73°10.0’E | 1093
|  | Rondo N | Sabang W | Sabang | 2473
|  | 6°06.5’N, 95°07.0’E | 5°53.0’N, 95°18.0’E | 5°53.2’N, 95°19.0’E |
|  |  | Langkawi SW | Kuah X | 2742
|  |  | 6°15.0’N, 99°41.3’E | 6°18.3’N, 99°50.0’E |
|  | Nicobar S | Phuket S | Ao Chalong X | 2702

This is a long route, or set of routes, that cuts right across the Central Indian Ocean with several enticing stopovers along the way and just as many attractive destinations. The best time is undoubtedly during the SW monsoon, when both winds and current will be favourable north of the equator, although in July and August the prevailing SE winds that normally blow south of the Line will also be deflected to S and SW. The passage should not be left until too late to avoid the cyclone season in the Bay of Bengal.

The possible detours alluded to earlier are reflected in the choice of routes, from a southerly one that could easily include a stop in Chagos, to the most northerly via North Malé and Sri Lanka. Route IT18A will not only benefit from the favourable east-setting Equatorial Countercurrent but also the stronger SW winds that blow in those latitudes. One advantage of the southerly route is that it avoids the strong winds and rough seas associated with the SW monsoon. Whichever option is chosen, all routes converge north of Sumatra, from where they fan out, with suggested landfalls from Phuket in the north to Singapore in the south, as detailed in route IN25.

Sailors are advised that stopping in any of the islands in the British Indian Ocean Territory (Chagos) is strictly forbidden without having obtained a permit in advance from the BIOT authorities. Those stopping without permission, even in an emergency, face a very high fine and confiscation of their yacht. Contact: BIOTAdmin@fco. gov.uk.

• IT19 Australia to Southeast Asia

BEST TIME: | April (route IT19A), August (route IT19B)
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May (South Indian Ocean), April to July, September to December (North Indian Ocean)
CHARTS: | BA 4070, 4071, US 70, 71 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | I2 Bali to SE Asia |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Indian Ocean Cruising Guide , Southeast Asia Pilot , Cruising Guide to Southeast Asia (Vol. II). |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IT19A |  |  |  |  |
Darwin X 12°30.0’S, 130°52.0’E | Darwin NW 12°22.0’S, 130°44.0’E | Ashmore NW] 9°42.7’S, 126°27.6’E | [Ashmore E 12°10.0’S, 124°22.5’E | Ashmore Reef 12°13.0’S, 123°12.7’E |   452
|  | [Bali SE 8°51.0’S, 115°22.0’E Bali S] 8°51.5’S, 115°16.0’E | Benoa E 8°45.0’S, 115°14.7’E | Benoa X 8°44.7’S, 115°12.7’E |   953
|  | Christmas NW 10°22.0’S, 105°36.0’E Sunda S 7°10.0’S, 103°42.0’E | Christmas NE 10°23.0’S, 105°42.0’E | Flying Fish 10°25.4’S, 105°40.3’E | 1491
|  | [Sanding SE 3°32.0’S, 100°46.5’E Siberut NE] 0°48.0’S, 98°55.0’E Siberut NW 0°53.0’S, 97°57.0’E Sumatra NW 5°49.0’N, 94°20.0’E |  | Padang X 0°57.7’S, 100°20.7’E | 2075
|  | Rondo N | Sabang W | Sabang | 2584
|  | 6°06.5’N, 95°07.0’E | 5°53.0’N, 95°18.0’E | 5°53.2’N, 95°19.0’E |
|  |  | Langkawi SW 6°15.0’N, 99°41.3’E | Kuah X 6°18.3’N, 99°50.0’E | 2848
|  | Nicobar S 6°27.0’N, 93°55.0’E | Phuket S 7°44.0’N, 98°20.5’E | Ao Chalong X 7°48.0’N, 98°21.0’E | 2840
Route IT19B |  |  |  |  |
Fremantle 32°03.3’S, 115°44.0’E Broome 17°59.5’S, 122°14.0’E | Fremantle W 32°01.2’S, 115°37.0’E Broome S 18°01.0’S, 122°12.0’E | Shark Bay W 25°30.0’S, 111°56.0’E Broome W 17°58.0’S, 122°5.5’E |  |  |
|  |  | Christmas W 10°25.5’S, 105°33.0’E | Flying Fish | 1425/1079
|  | [Sanding SE Siberut NE] |  | Padang X | 2066/1689
|  | Siberut NW |  |  |
|  | Sumatra NW |  |  |
|  | Rondo N | Sabang W | Sabang | 2780/2404
|  |  | Langkawi SW | Kuah X | 2974/2668
|  | Nicobar S | Phuket S | Ao Chalong X | 2966/2660

What started off as a route used by professional crews delivering racing or charter yachts to Malaysia and Thailand is now increasingly used by cruising sailors from Western or Northern Australia who wish to reach ports in Southeast Asia without the need to sail right across the Indonesian Archipelago. Regardless of the point of departure, the route curves around the west of Sumatra.

There is an almost infinite number of permutations that can be applied to the two basic routes outlined above, and some of those alternatives have been discussed on the preceding pages. Thus, those who are departing from Darwin on route IT19A can sail a nonstop offshore route as far as South Sumatra, or can interrupt the voyage at several points, be it Ashmore Reef, Bali or Christmas Island. Those who are setting off from Western Australia, whether Fremantle or Broome, have their own choices, from a detour to Cocos Keeling or to Sumatra, possibly via Christmas Island.

The west coast of Sumatra is among the least travelled areas of Indonesia and the route outlined here passes right by the rarely visited islands that form a chain that runs parallel to the coast. An inshore route can be sailed in their lee with a possible stop at Padang, the main settlement in Western Sumatra, for fresh provisions or fuel. Having passed the top of Sumatra, Sabang on the island of Wé is another potential Sumatran stop before the common route splits to reach the various destinations on the west coast of the Malay Peninsula described in IN11.

IT20 • Southbound Routes

IT20 Southbound transequatorial routes in the Indian Ocean

• | IT21 | Southbound from the Red Sea | 514
• | IT22 | Southbound from the Maldives | 516
• | IT23 | Southbound from Sri Lanka | 518
• | IT24 | Southeast Asia to Torres Strait | 519
• | IT25 | Southeast Asia to South Indian Ocean | 521

Until not so long ago, the number of cruising boats sailing any of the routes described in this section was quite small as most voyages in the Indian Ocean were westbound, either from SE Asia to the Red Sea and Mediterranean or from the Torres Strait to South Africa and the South Atlantic. All this changed when the incidence of piracy attacks, several involving cruising yachts, reached such an unprecedented level that sailors on a world voyage who were in Southeast Asia were forced to reconsider their plans and continue their voyage via the Cape of Good Hope. Within a short period, the islands of the South Indian Ocean started being visited by more sailors than ever before, and the attractions of many of these as yet untapped cruising grounds became widely known. With this in mind, most routes described in this section have been thoroughly revised compared to previous editions.

Southbound voyages across the equator are generally easier to plan than in the opposite direction, mainly because the cyclone season in the South Indian Ocean is better defined, and it is therefore easier to decide on the areas that should be avoided at certain times. As a result, transequatorial passages are far more common than in the past.

• IT21 Southbound from the Red Sea

BEST TIME: | April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | May to July, September to December (Arabian Sea), November to May (South Indian Ocean) |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | I7 Southbound Voyages from the Red Sea |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Indian Ocean Cruising Guide, East Africa Pilot. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IT21A |  |  |  |  |
Djibouti 11°36.3’N, 43°08.0’E Aden 12°47.5’N, 44°58.0’E | Heron N 11°38.5’N, 43°08.0’E Tarshayn W 12°46.5’N, 44°57.5’E | Djibouti NE 11°43.0’N, 43°21.5’E Aden SE 12°42.0’N, 45°03.0’E |  |  |
|  | Gulf W |  |  |
|  | 12°23.0’N, 45°46.0’E Socotra N 13°25.0’N, 53°23.0’E Socotra E 12°40.0’N, 55°22.0’E Seychelles N 2°30.0’S, 55°28.0’E Denis W 3°41.0’S, 55°31.0’E Victoria NE 4°34.3’S, 55°30.3’E |  |  |
|  | Anne W 4°36.5’S, 55°29.2’E | Victoria N 4°37.0’S, 55°28.1’E | Victoria X 4°37.5’S, 55°27.5’E | 1422/1314
Route IT21B |  |  |  |  |
Djibouti Aden | Heron N Tarshayn W | Djibouti NE Aden SE |  |  |
|  | Gulf W |  |  |
|  | Socotra N |  |  |
|  | Socotra E |  |  |
|  | Chagos NW |  |  |
|  | 4°56.0’S, 71°37.0’E |  |  |
|  | Salomon N | Pass N | Salomon X | 1797/1689
|  | 5°16.0’S, 72°13.0’E | 5°17.5’S, 72°14.2’E | 5°19.3’S, 72 °14.5’E |

Although most yacht traffic in the Red Sea used to be from south to north, until recently a number of boats sailed every year to various destinations in the South Indian Ocean by this more direct route from Europe and the Mediterranean. As a consequence of the threat of piracy, the political uncertainty, and the safety situation generally in that part of the world, such voyages have dwindled, although they may reoccur if the situation returns to normal.

Planning a southbound voyage from the Mediterranean is not easy, as the difficulties start with the initial stages when the best time needs to be chosen to sail the length of the Red Sea. The winter months are the most favourable period as the weather and temperatures are pleasant, and the winds are northerly at least as far as Port Sudan. As this is also the time of the NE monsoon, those winds will be deflected to the south in the southern part of the Red Sea and, once the Gulf of Aden is reached, strong easterly winds can be expected. It is therefore a matter of weighing up the disadvantages of contrary winds in the southern part of the Red Sea and the Gulf of Aden against the advantages of favourable winds further into the passage. The compromise solution is to postpone the arrival in the Gulf of Aden until the transitional period of late March or early April, but still before the onset of the SW monsoon. Such timing will ensure an arrival south of the equator after the end of the cyclone season there. If the timing is right, some residual NE winds may still be enjoyed once the Horn of Africa has been left behind, and possibly SW winds in early May with the arrival of the monsoon from that direction. Where the equator is crossed depends entirely on the destination. Boats bound for the Seychelles can sail a direct course as soon as their longitude has been reached. Passages bound for Mauritius should attempt to make some easting while north of the equator so as to meet the SE winds at a better angle. This is even more important for those planning to sail to Chagos.

Passages during the autumn transitional period will be in the Red Sea during the extremely hot months of summer and, once again, if the timing is right might benefit from favourable winds in the Arabian Sea, from SW first to be followed by winds from NE. The one serious disadvantage of such timing is that the South Indian Ocean will be reached close to the start of the cyclone season, although the Seychelles are not directly affected by such storms.

Boats bound for Port Victoria, the capital of the Seychelles, will make landfall west of Denis, the northernmost Seychelles Island. From there, the course continues due south to the northern entrance into Port Victoria. The harbour master should be contacted on channel 16. Arriving boats are normally directed to the anchorage in the inner harbour where visiting sailors may use the facilities of the nearby Seychelles Yacht Club.

Direct passages to Mauritius should pass well to the east of the Seychelles to avoid a hard beat into the strong SE winds that prevail in those latitudes, hence the suggestion to attempt making such easting while still north of the equator. In the transitional month of May, the ITCZ retreats far to the north and there are virtually no doldrums to be crossed on this route, with one wind system replacing the other almost seamlessly.

Boats bound for Chagos will make landfall NW of the archipelago with the choice of anchoring at one of the two closest atolls: Peros Banhos and Salomon. Chagos is part of BIOT (British Indian Ocean Territory) and stopping in any of the islands without having obtained a permit in advance is strictly forbidden. Those stopping without permission, even in an emergency, face a very high fine and confiscation of their yacht. Contact: BIOTAdmin@fco. gov.uk.

The SW monsoon provides better conditions for reaching the further island groups in the South Indian Ocean, such as Madagascar and Mauritius. A September passage from the Red Sea would benefit from more favourable sailing conditions to such destinations if sufficient easting had been made north of the equator. Those who have reached the South Indian Ocean too late in the season should consider spending the cyclone season in the Seychelles and continuing the voyage after it has finished.

• IT22 Southbound from the Maldives

BEST TIME: | June to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Indian Ocean Cruising Guide. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IT22A |  |  |  |  |
Gan 0°41.2’S, 73°10.0’E | Addu S 0°43.5’S, 73°11.0’E | Speaker E 4°55.0’S, 72°29.0’E Salomon NE 5°16.5’S, 72°15.5’E | Pass N 5°17.5’S, 72°14.2’E | Salomon X 5°19.3’S, 72°14.5’E | 286
Route IT22B |  |  |  |  |
Gan | Addu S | [Speaker E Salomon NE Peros Banhos N] 5°31.0’S, 71°50.0’E | Pass N | Salomon X |
|  | Agalega NW 10°16.0’S, 56°26.0’E | Antsiranana E 12°13.0’S, 49°26.0’E | Antsiranana X 12°16.0’S, 49°16.5’E | 1708
Route IT22C |  |  |  |  |
Gan | Addu S | [Speaker E Salomon NE Peros Banhos N] Agalega NW Madagascar N 11°25.0’S, 49°16.0’E Madagascar NW 12°10.0’S, 48°34.0’E Nosy Be NE 13°11.5’S, 48°23.5’E | Pass N | Salomon X | 286
|  | Nosy Be SE 13°25.0’S, 48°23.7’E | Nosy Be S 13°25.0’S, 48°17.0’E | Hell-Ville 13°24.3’S, 48°17.0’E | 1842
Route IT22D |  |  |  |  |
Gan | Addu S | [Speaker E Salomon NE Peros Banhos N Chagos W] 6°13.0’S, 71°13.4’E | Pass N | Salomon X |
|  | [Rodrigues NE] 19°38.0’S, 63°28.0’E Mauritius NE 19°47.5’S, 57°50.0’E Mauritius N 19°48.0’S, 57°35.0’E | Port Mathurin N 19°40.0’S, 63°25.7’E | Port Mathurin 19°40.5’S, 63°25.2’E | 1295
|  | Port Louis NW 20°07.0’S, 57°27.0’E | Port Louis SE 20°08.5’S, 57°28.5’E | Port Louis 20°09.3’S, 57°29.4’E | 1534
Route IT22E |  |  |  |  |
Gan | Addu S | Fregate E 4°35.0’S, 55°59.0’E Fregate S 4°37.0’S, 55°55.0’E | Mahé E 4°39.5’S, 55°33.0’E | Victoria X 4°37.5’S, 55°27.5’E | 1091

The best time to make this passage is during the SW monsoon when favourable winds will be found both north and south of the equator. For the rest of the year the main direction of the winds is southerly and even in the transitional period there is a high proportion of southerly winds, so the only certain time for fair winds is at the height of the SW monsoon. This is also the safest time to continue the voyage to Mauritius and other destinations.

Gan, at the southern extremity of the Maldives, makes a more convenient and also better starting point than the capital Malé. An attempt should be made to gain some easting with the help of the SW winds north of the equator so as to approach Chagos from NE. Landfall will be made north of the Salomon Atoll where a pass leads into the large lagoon. The best anchorage is in the SE corner off Fouquet Island.

Diego Garcia, the main island of the group, is a military base leased by the British government to the USA and a stop in that island is only permitted in an emergency. Severe restrictions on visiting yachts have been introduced by the British authorities who administer this British Indian Ocean Territory. Stopping in any of the islands without having obtained a permit in advance is strictly forbidden. Those stopping without permission, even in an emergency, face a very high fine and confiscation of their yacht. Contact: BIOTAdmin@fco.gov.uk.

Chagos enjoys South Indian Ocean weather with SE trade winds from April to October, but as the islands are close to the upper limit of the trade winds, they can be light and more variable. From December to March, when the ITCZ moves south, the NE monsoon is deflected south of the equator to give a NW flow of wind. The NW monsoon is not so reliable, brings rain, and blows most strongly in January and February. The period of the NW monsoon is also the cyclone season, but these storms normally form south of Chagos and move in a southerly direction. They rarely track north towards the equator. Even if rarely visited by tropical cyclones, the archipelago can be affected by violent squalls that accompany a passing front.

Boats on the passage to Madagascar should sail a course that passes north of the Agalega Islands before altering course for their chosen destination. This could be Antsiranana, close to the northern tip of Madagascar (IT22B), or Nosy Be on the NW coast of the island (IT22C). It is important to point out that because of the difficulties associated with sailing close to the northern extremity of Madagascar, where strong winds and rough seas are often encountered, those who intend to continue to the west coast of Madagascar would do better to bypass Antsiranana.

The port of Antsiranana is located in a large land-enclosed bay. Various offices near the commercial port need to be visited to complete formalities. Visas are no longer issued on arrival and must be obtained in advance online: www.evisamada.gov.mg/en/.

Having passed the Agalega Islands, boats bound directly for the west coast of Madagascar should sail a course that passes well to the north of Cape Ambré to avoid the difficulties mentioned earlier. The island of Nosy Be is at the centre of an attractive area that in recent years has become a popular cruising destination. The port of entry is Hell-Ville, located on the south coast of Nosy Be. The port captain should be contacted on channel 16 on arrival and boats are normally advised to anchor off the commercial dock. Formalities are completed at various offices located nearby.

Boats bound for Mauritius on route AT22D will benefit from a better sailing angle if they pass east of Chagos. The island of Rodrigues, which is administered by Mauritius, makes an interesting stop and would not entail a long detour as it is close to the direct route that passes east of Chagos. Boats planning to call at Rodrigues should call Rodrigues Coast Guard when several miles out and give an ETA. An intricate channel, which is preferably navigated in daylight, leads to Port Mathurin, where boats are normally directed to tie up to the commercial dock to complete formalities.

The only port of entry in Mauritius is the capital Port Louis and boats must proceed directly there. Port Louis Control normally directs boats to tie up to the immigration dock where formalities are completed. After formalities have been dealt with, boats may proceed to nearby Caudan Marina. As the port is not open after darkness, if arriving at night permission should be requested to anchor outside the entrance channel.

Route IT22E to the Seychelles can be sailed entirely offshore as it crosses an area free of dangers until landfall is made at Fregate Island, the easternmost point of the Seychelles. The route continues due west to Mahé and the capital Victoria. The harbour master should be contacted on channel 16. Arriving boats are normally directed to the anchorage in the inner harbour where visiting sailors may use the facilities of the nearby Seychelles Yacht Club.

• IT23 Southbound from Sri Lanka

BEST TIME: | June, October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4070, 4071, US 70, 71 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Indian Ocean Cruising Guide. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IT23A |  |  |  |  |
Magalle 6°01.9’N, 80°13.7’E | Magalle W 6°01.9’N, 80°13.4’E | Galle S 6°00.5’N, 80°13.3’E |  |  |
|  | Christmas NW 10°22.0’S, 105°36.0’E Christmas NE 10°23.0’S, 105°42.0’E |  | Flying Fish 10°25.4’S, 105°40.3’E | 1814
|  | Broome W 17°58.0’S, 122°05.5’E Keeling N 12°03.4’S, 96°52.7’E Fremantle W 32°01.2’S, 115°37.0’E | Broome S 18°01.0’S, 122°12.0’E Direction W 12°05.5’S, 96°52.0’E | Broome 17°59.5’S, 122°14.0’E Direction 12°05.5’S, 96°52.8’E Fremantle 32°03.3’S, 115°44.0’E | 2876 1470 3051
Route IT23B |  |  |  |  |
Magalle | Magalle W | Galle S [Speaker E 4°55.0’S, 72°29.0’E |  |  |
|  | Salomon NE 5°16.5’S, 72°15.5’E Peros Banhos N 5°31.0’S, 71°50.0’E Chagos W] 6°13.0’S, 71°13.4’E | Pass N 5°17.5’S, 72°14.2’E | Salomon X 5°19.3’S, 72°14.5’E | 830
|  | [Rodrigues NE] 19°38.0’S, 63°28.0’E Mauritius NE 19°47.5’S, 57°50.0’E Mauritius N 19°48.0’S, 57°35.0’E | Port Mathurin N 19°40.0’S, 63°25.7’E | Port Mathurin 19°40.5’S, 63°25.2’E | 1829
|  | Port Louis NW 20°07.0’S, 57°27.0’E | Port Louis SE 20°08.5’S, 57°28.5’E | Port Louis 20°09.3’S, 57°29.4’E | 2062

There are two basic routes from Sri Lanka that cross the equator: a SE route to destinations in Western Australia and a SW route bound for islands in the western part of the South Indian Ocean. Weather considerations are very similar to those described in route IT22 and, as the same criteria apply for striking a balance between the optimum conditions in either hemisphere, passages during the SW monsoon seem to be the logical choice. With Sri Lanka lying further east than the Maldives, passages starting from there have the advantage of a better sailing angle south of the equator for such destinations as Chagos and Mauritius. In the case of destinations in Western Australia, it will be necessary to make some easting while north of the equator to enjoy a better sailing angle when the SE winds are met, especially on passages bound for Broome.

Route IT23A offers a choice between two intermediate islands, Christmas and Cocos Keeling, both belonging to Australia. Even if the recommended easting has been made in the initial stages of the passage, the wisdom of a stopover in Cocos Keeling should be considered carefully as it may be counterproductive for boats bound not only for Broome but also Fremantle. At the height of the SE trade wind season, the winds blow consistently from SE and S, usually at an average force 5. Those are the kind of conditions best avoided by a cruising boat, and this is the main reason why owners of boats bound for Western Australia are strongly advised to commence their voyage as far east as possible. In this case, one should consider the possibility of making use of the SW winds north of the equator to gain the lee of Sumatra and sail south, inside or outside the chain of islands, where the SE winds are more manageable.

On arrival at Christmas Island, anchoring is prohibited in order to protect the coral, and mooring buoys have been installed at Flying Fish Cove for the use of visiting yachts. Every person on board, except New Zealand citizens, must be in possession of an Australian visa.

Boats bound for Cocos Keeling should contact Cocos customs on channel 20 when approaching the 12‑mile limit. Visiting yachts are requested to anchor off Direction Island, close to the entrance into the lagoon. A police officer will visit the boat to complete formalities, but going ashore or having contact with anyone before formalities are completed is prohibited. Regulations for boats arriving in Australia’s outlying islands are very strict. The Australian Border Force must be notified 96 hours prior to arrival at either Christmas Island or Cocos Keeling. Details of the boat, crew, last port, if there are animals or firearms on board, and ETA should be emailed to yachtreport@homeaffairs.gov.au.

Refer to route IT22 for details on formalities in Rodrigues, Mauritius, as well as restrictions in Chagos (BIOT).

Route AT23B has none of the above factors to consider, although a stopover in Chagos may entail a tighter wind angle on the subsequent leg to Mauritius. For more details refer to route AT22.

• IT24 Southeast Asia to Torres Strait

BEST TIME:
September to October

TROPICAL STORMS:
November to April

CHARTS:
BA 4060, US 60

CRUISING GUIDES:
Cruising Guide to Southeast Asia (Vol II).

WAYPOINTS:
Start
Departure
Intermediate
Landfall
Arrival
Distance

Singapore X 1°16.0’N, 103°45.0’E
Singapore SE 1°17.0’N, 104°36.0’E
Merapas E 1°1.0’N, 105°22.0’E Lingga E 0°02.0’N, 106°23.0’E Karimata NW 2°02.0’S, 108°20.0’E Pesemut E 2°24.0’S, 109°6.0’E Karimata S 3°36.4’S, 109°46.2’E Bawean NE 5°32.5’S, 112°54.5’E Kamudi NE 7°04.0’S, 114°52.5’E Bali E 8°22.5’S, 115°47.0’E

Nusa Penida NW 8°38.0’S, 115°24.0’E Bali SE 8°51.0’S, 115°22.0’E
Benoa E 8°45.0’S, 115°14.7’E
Benoa X 8°44.7’S, 115°12.7’E
992

Ashmore W
[Darwin NW]
Darwin X
1945

12°15.0’S, 122°37.0’E Sumba SE 10°40.0’S, 120°20.0’E Roti S 11°05.5’S, 122°50.0’E Dundas NE 10°47.0’S, 132°28.5’E
12°22.0’S, 130°44.0’E
12°30.0’S, 130°52.0’E

Cape Wessel

10°45.0’S, 136°46.5’E

Booby N
Normanby W
Thursday X
2609

10°34.5’S, 141°54.4’E
10°34.5’S, 142°08.0’E
10°35.2’S, 142°13.2’E

This route is often the first stage of a longer voyage to Eastern Australia, and as it passes through three different wind systems along its considerable length, the timing of each individual stage is very important. There are, in fact, two very different ways to reach Eastern Australia from Southeast Asia. The first is to sail south via Indonesia, east through the Torres Strait and continue south inside the Great Barrier Reef. The most favourable conditions may be found at the change of seasons (April or October) but such a route should not be attempted during the cyclone season (November to April). The alternative is to strike out east from Singapore going via the Philippines and perhaps calling at Palau. The route should stay in low latitudes and cross the equator far enough to the east so as to ensure a better angle across the prevailing SE winds in the South Pacific. The route continues south past the Outer Solomons, Vanuatu and possibly New Caledonia, before it swings west towards the port of destination. This route is best sailed during the safer North Pacific season (December to March), and May to October south of the Line.

The first route outlined here is considerably shorter and sailing it as far as the Torres Strait should not be too difficult. It is from there onwards that the real difficulties start and the only solution may be to make your way south in short stages inside the Great Barrier Reef. The recommended time for the passage through the Indonesian Archipelago is dictated by the need to sail the section from Bali to the Torres Strait early enough in the NW monsoon to benefit from favourable winds, but not too late to be caught up by the coming cyclone season. The fine balance needs to be stretched even further if the intention is to continue south inside the Great Barrier Reef during the safe season. As that may not be easily achieved, shelter may need to be sought in Northern Queensland to sit out the cyclone season, or the risk may be taken to sail south in short stages to be within reach of shelter if threatened by a cyclone.

Bali has been chosen as the main intermediate point as it is the closest port with reasonable facilities to the route, and it is also convenient for those who intend to continue from there to Darwin. The suggested route leaves Singapore through the South Channel, from where it turns SE to pass east of Bintan Island.

The route continues through the Karimata Strait west of Borneo (Kalimantan), an area encumbered by reefs and islets whose positions often do not agree with the GPS coordinates, so it is essential to keep to the main shipping channel. Having entered the Java Sea, the route is altered to pass east of Bawean Island. The 10-mile-wide strait between Goagoa Island and Karang Takat Reef opens into the Bali Sea. Having passed the eastern extremity of the island of Bali, the route turns SE for the port of Benoa where Bali International Marina is located. The channel leading into Benoa is difficult to negotiate at night, and is also swept by very strong currents. The marina monitors channel 77 and the office will deal with all necessary formalities for a fee. As the marina is very small, an alternative place to anchor is Serangan Harbour, approximately ½ mile north of Benoa. Regardless of the intended port of destination, any boat bound for Indonesia must register on the Yacht Electronic Registration System at https://yachters.beacukai.go.id This must be done up to 24 hours before arrival at an official port of entry. There are local agents who will help with entry formalities.

From Bali, the route turns east, running parallel to the chain of Indonesian islands. Because of the prevailing SE and E winds that blow in the Timor and Arafura Seas throughout the safe season, eastbound passages from Bali have two options: to sail an inshore route along the north coasts of the chain of Indonesian islands, or to take the offshore route. The northern option can be attempted at practically any time of the year as that area is very rarely affected by tropical storms. Another advantage is the ability to take advantage of the diurnal alternation between land and sea breezes to make the required easting.

The offshore option can only be recommended at the change of seasons. Both in April and in late October, the prevailing winds are replaced by a period of variable, often ligher, winds, when making progress should be much easier than at other times. However, such a passage ought to be completed before the start of the cyclone season in November, or after the risk of cyclones has decreased to an acceptable level, such as in May.

Boats bound for Darwin can peel off this route shortly before Ashmore Reef is reached. Darwin port authority should be contacted on channel 16 shortly before arrival and boats are normally directed to anchor in the quarantine area NW of the commercial harbour. As the boat will be inspected by various officials, permission should be requested from port control to proceed to either the Fisherman’s Wharf or Cullen Bay Marina, which are the most convenient places to be boarded.

The Australian Border Force must be notified 96 hours prior to arrival at an Australian port. Details of the boat, crew, last port, if there are animals or firearms on board, and ETA should be emailed to yachtreport@homeaffairs.gov.au. There are severe penalties for not doing this and also for stopping anywhere before having cleared in. With the exception of New Zealand citizens, all foreign visitors must arrive with a valid Australian visa.

Ashmore Reef is an Australian territory but short stops are usually tolerated by the customs officers stationed there. From there, the route continues across the Arafura Sea to make landfall off the Normanby Channel, which leads to Thursday Island, the main settlement in the Torres Strait. On arrival, port control should be contacted on channel 16 during office hours. Cruising boats are normally directed to the customs dock, or to one of the nearby anchorages if the winds are too strong to come alongside. Even stricter quarantine regulations apply here than in the rest of Australia, and certain fresh food items will be confiscated.

• IT25 Southeast Asia to South Indian Ocean

BEST TIME: | April, October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | April to July, October to December (Bay of Bengal), November to May (South Indian Ocean) |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | I4 Torres Strait to South Africa |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Indian Ocean Cruising Guide. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Ao Chalong X 7°48.0’N, 98°21.0’E Kuah X 6°18.3’N, 99°50.0’E | Phuket S 7°44.0’N, 98°20.5’E Langkawi SW 6°15.0’N, 99°41.3’E | Nicobar S 6°27.0’N, 93°55.0’E Rondo N 6°06.5’N, 95°07.0’E Sumatra NW 5°49.0’N, 94°20.0’E [Blenheim SE 5°16.5’S, 72°30.5’E |  |  |
|  | Salomon NE | Pass N | Salomon X | 1751/1795
|  | 5°16.5’S, 72°15.5’E Peros Banhos N 5°31.0’S, 71°50.0’E Chagos W] 6°13.0’S, 71°13.4’E | 5°17.5’S, 72°14.2’E | 5°19.3’S, 72°14.5’E |
|  | [Rodrigues NE] 19°38.0’S, 63°28.0’E Mauritius NE 19°47.5’S, 57°50.0’E Mauritius N 19°48.0’S, 57°35.0’E | Port Mathurin N 19°40.0’S, 63°25.7’E | Port Mathurin 19°40.5’S, 63°25.2’E | 2739/2755
|  | Port Louis NW 20°07.0’S, 57°27.0’E | Port Louis SE 20°08.5’S, 57°28.5’E | Port Louis 20°09.3’S, 57°29.4’E | 3037/3059

The routes that make up this section can be described as a trunk route that runs from the NE part of the Indian Ocean to its SW extremity. It came into being as a result of the intensification of piracy attacks in 2008 when sailors who had reached Southeast Asia on a world voyage and were intending to sail across the North Indian Ocean to the Red Sea and Mediterranean were forced to change their plans. The logical solution was a passage around the Cape of Good Hope, and this is what most of them did. While the risk of privacy has greatly diminished in recent years, this way to reach the Atlantic Ocean has continued to be the preferred option for boats on a world voyage.

The risks of two cyclone seasons, north and south of the equator, along this long route need to be assessed when choosing the optimum time for this passage. For those who intend to spend some time exploring the various islands in the South Indian Ocean, the best time to depart Thailand or Western Malaysia is in late March or April, while the NE monsoon still ensures favourable winds to the equator. With the cyclone season coming to an end in the South Indian Ocean by May, if the equator has been crossed too soon some time can be spent outside the danger area in Western Sumatra.

One recommended tactic, which attempts to take full advantage of the best conditions on both sides of the equator, is to leave on this passage in March while the NE monsoon is still in force and sail as far as the west coast of Sumatra. Some time could be spent cruising the Mentawai Islands while waiting for the cyclone season to come to an end. The voyage is resumed in May, by which time the SE trade winds should be fully established. With the arrival of the safe season and the prospect of five months of carefree cruising, the voyage can either continue to Mauritius or to one of the destinations described in route AT22, which also outlines arrival procedures in those ports. The continuation of the voyage to South Africa is described in routes IS48 and IS52.

WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN

The weather in the tropical zone of the South Indian Ocean is greatly influenced by the advance of the NE monsoon south of the equator during the northern winter and its corresponding retreat during summer. Outside of the tropics the weather follows a normal pattern.

The southeast trade winds

These winds blow on the equatorial side of the anticlockwise circulation of air that exists around the area of high pressure situated in about latitude 30ºS. Compared to the other oceans, the South Indian High rarely consists of a single cell and often contains a succession of east-moving anticyclonic systems. The trade winds blow on their north side and form a wide belt that stretches across the ocean from Western Australia to Madagascar and the coast of Africa. Between July and September this belt spreads over a very large area and becomes continuous with the SE trade winds of the South Pacific. The entire belt moves north and south throughout the year, its northern limit varying from latitude 2ºS in August to latitude 12ºS in January. The fluctuation of the southern limit is less pronounced, from 24ºS in August to 30ºS in January. The average strength of these trade winds is between 10 and 15 knots in summer and 15 and 20 knots in winter. Over the central region, the wind blows steadily from SE or ESE, especially from May to September when the SW monsoon is in force north of the equator.

The northwest monsoon

From November to March, when the ITCZ is situated south of the equator, the NE monsoon of the North Indian Ocean is drawn into the southern hemisphere. Because of the rotation of the earth, it is deflected to the left and becomes a NW wind in the northern part of the South Indian Ocean. Winds are generally light and vary considerably both in direction and strength during this period. The weather is often squally and unsettled.

Monsoons of the indonesian archipelago

The weather pattern of the Indonesian Archipelago is more seasonal than that of the adjacent areas, which are dominated by the two monsoons. The SE monsoon generally lasts from April to September and is replaced by a NW monsoon from October to March. Though neither of them is very strong, the SE monsoon is the more consistent both in strength and direction, particularly during July and August when it becomes continuous with the SE trade winds of the South Pacific and Indian Oceans. During the NW monsoon, the direction of the winds is predominantly NW, although their strength and consistency are less pronounced among the southern islands. South of latitude 4ºS the weather is often squally, alternating with calms, variable winds and rain.

Variables

On the polar side of the SE trade wind belt there is an area of light variable winds that coincides with the high-pressure region. The axis of this high is situated in about latitude 30ºS in winter, moving further south towards latitude 35ºS during the summer. The weather varies greatly within this zone, which has similar characteristics to the Horse Latitudes of the Atlantic Ocean.

Westerlies

Westerly winds prevail on the polar side of the South Indian Ocean High. The continuous passage of depressions from west to east causes the wind to vary considerably in direction and strength. Particularly in the higher latitudes of the Roaring Forties and further south, the frequency of gales is high, the weather cold and the seas rough.

Tropical storms

The official cyclone season lasts from 15 November to 30 April, with the exception of Mauritius and the Seychelles, where it ends on 15 May. For safety reasons it is wiser to avoid the entire period between November and May. In recent years the strength of the cyclones has intensified. The 2018–19 season was the most active since records began, with a total of ten severe tropical storms. Most of these storms produced devastating impacts on land, with Idai causing over one thousand deaths and widespread damage in SE Africa. Cyclones have also occurred earlier in the season, and two extra-seasonal tropical storms formed south of Chagos in July 2016 and July 2020, during what is still described as the safe season. The trend towards more intense storms continued in the 2019–2020 season, which recorded six cyclones, among them Ambali of category 4. The 2020–2021 season recorded seven cyclones, with two very intense ones: Faraji and Habana. Cyclones are also affecting Southern Indonesia, with cyclone Seroja causing major destruction and loss of life in early April 2021.

Indian Ocean currents – SW monsoon

The willy-willies that affect the coasts of Western and Northwestern Australia occur mostly between December and April. They can extend as far as the Timor Sea and Arafura Sea, the latter also being subject to South Pacific cyclones that occasionally hit Northern Australia.

Currents

The main surface circulation of the South Indian Ocean is anticlockwise but because of the monsoons of the North Indian Ocean there is only one Equatorial Current. The west-setting Equatorial Current always flows south of the equator, its northern limit varying between latitudes 6ºS and 10ºS depending on longitude and season. The limit is nearer the equator during the SW monsoon of the North Indian Ocean. On the western side of the ocean, the northern part of the current flows past Madagascar until it reaches the coast of Africa. The current splits in two, one branch following the coast in a northerly direction, the other setting south into the Mozambique Channel. This becomes the Mozambique Current, which further south alters its name to that of the Agulhas Current.

The Agulhas Current contains not just the waters of the Mozambique Current but also those of the southern branch of the Equatorial Current. The two currents meet off the coast of Africa in about latitude 28ºS, from where the combined current sets strongly SW before it passes into the South Atlantic. One part of the Agulhas Current branches off to the SE where it joins the Southern Ocean Current. The south side of the main circulation of the South Indian Ocean is formed by this current, which sets in an E and NE direction. The eastern side of this anticlockwise movement is formed by the West Australian Current, which sets in a NW direction along the west coast of Australia. Eventually it turns into the Equatorial Current, thus completing this giant cycle.

ROUTES IN THE SOUTH INDIAN OCEAN

IS10 | • | Routes from Australia
IS20 | • | Routes from Indonesia
IS30 | • | Routes in the Central Indian Ocean
IS40 | • | Routes in the Western Indian Ocean
IS50 | • | Routes from the Mascarene Islands
IS60 | • | Routes from South Africa

The sailing scene in the South Indian Ocean has undergone a major change in the first decade of this century, as this once cruising backwater has started to attract a steadily increasing number of visiting yachts. The major factor that contributed to this change was the wide-spread piracy attacks that involved both commercial shipping and sailing boats stretching from the Gulf of Aden to East Africa. The immediate result was a drastic reduction in the number of yachts sailing the traditional route across the North Indian Ocean to the Red Sea and Mediterranean, after several attacks on yachts and the abduction of their crews for ransom had take place in that area. Sailors on a world voyage were forced to sail the Cape of Good Hope route instead and in the process started discovering the many cruising attractions of the South Indian Ocean from Sumatra to Madagascar and Seychelles to Mozambique.

Most boats sailing in the South Indian Ocean follow one of two main routes: those who wish to reach South Africa by the shortest route usually sail from Torres Strait to Mauritius and on to Richards Bay; those who wish to visit Madagascar, as well as possibly the Seychelles, usually take the northern route. There are many variations to those routes, especially as more boats now reach the South Indian Ocean from Southeast Asia.

For those who are on a world voyage and plan to sail the Cape of Good Hope route, there are various factors to be taken into account at the planning stage. The most important factor is to make the passage around the Cape of Good Hope at the most favourable time, which is during the summer months, from December to March. Such a timing means that the crossing of the South Indian Ocean takes place during the safe season, when no cyclones can be expected south of the equator. The cyclone season in the South Indian Ocean lasts from November to May and passages during this time should be avoided. Although cyclones have been recorded in other months too, it is generally agreed that June to October is a safe time to cross the South Indian Ocean. As the South Atlantic has only experienced one tropical storm, Catarina, which formed off the Brazilian coast in March 2004 and may have been just an exception, the onward voyage can start off from Cape Town at practically any time of the year, although, as stated earlier, better weather will be found in the South Atlantic in summer, from December to March.

Windgrams showing a summary of wind conditions along some popular cruising routes

Thursday Island to Darwin, October
Mauritius to Richards Bay, October
Bali to Cocos Keeling, July
Durban to Cape Town, November

The one area which often causes concern among cruising sailors is the leg around South Africa, where a sudden SW gale can create dangerous conditions when it hits the south-flowing Agulhas Current. However, with good planning and access to weather information, any well-found boat should have no problem passing through this area, as many do every year. Some useful tips are given in routes IS57 and IS62.

The Chagos Archipelago, one of the most attractive cruising destinations in the Indian Ocean, has seen the introduction of draconian restrictions by the British authorities. The justification is the need to protect this fragile nature reserve. It is also unfortunate that some visitors have behaved in an irresponsible manner.

IS10 • Routes from Australia

• | IS11 | Torres Strait to Darwin | 527
• | IS12 | Darwin to Torres Strait | 528
• | IS13 | Westbound from Torres Strait | 530
• | IS14 | Northbound from Darwin | 532
• | IS15 | Westbound from Darwin | 532
• | IS16 | Westbound from Western Australia | 534
• | IS17 | Western Australia to Bass Strait | 535

Most boats on a world voyage only touch Northern Australia briefly before either sailing north to Bali, for a short stop in Indonesia, or continuing directly to Christmas Island or more likely Cocos Keeling. For those who intend to stop in Indonesia the entry formalities have been greatly simplified. As a result, any boat bound for Indonesia must register on the Yacht Electronic Registration System at https://yachters.beacukai.go.id This must be done up to 24 hours before arrival at an official port of entry.

Bali is a favourite destination for all sailors, both those intending to continue their voyage to Southeast Asia and the Red Sea and those taking the southern route via the Cape of Good Hope.

The routes starting from Northern Australia are under the influence of the two monsoons. The SE monsoon, lasting from May until September, has the more pleasant weather as well as favourable winds. The NW monsoon coincides with the cyclone season in the tropical part of the South Indian Ocean, and for this reason few cruising boats remain in the areas affected by tropical storms between November and May.

IS10 Routes from Australia

• IS11 Torres Strait to Darwin

BEST TIME: | June to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | I4 Torres Strait to South Africa |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IS11A |  |  |  |  |
Thursday Island X 10°35.2’S, 142°13.2’E | Normanby SE 10°35.5’S, 142°12.7’E | Normanby N 10°35.0’S, 142°11.5’E Normanby W 10°34.5’S, 142°08.0’E Booby N 10°34.5’S, 141°55.0’E Cape Wessel 10°45.0’S, 136°49.0’E Dundas NE 10°47.0’S, 132°28.5’E Cape van Diemen 11°02.0’S, 130°17.5’E |  |  |
|  | Fourcroy W 11°47.0’S, 129°55.5’E | Darwin NW 12°22.0’S, 130°44.0’E | Darwin X 12°30.0’S, 130°52.0’E | 824
Route IS11B |  | Dundas NE Cape Don 11°14.5’S, 131°36.0’E |  |  |
|  | Abbott E |  |  |
|  | 11°50.0’S, 131°33.0’E |  |  |
|  | Clarence E |  |  |
|  | 12°05.0’S, 131°10.5’E |  |  |
|  | Clarence W | Darwin NW | Darwin X | 742
|  | 12°04.6’S, 130°56.0’E |  |  |

During the SE monsoon, from the middle of April to the end of September or early October, winds on this route are mostly favourable. To reach Darwin there is a choice of either sailing the offshore route around Melville and Bathurst Islands (AS11A) or taking the short cut through the Dundas and Clarence Straits (IS11B). Because of the strong tidal streams in the latter, the roundabout route is easier to navigate but is both longer and slower. Those who have more time might prefer to cover the entire distance from the Torres Strait to Darwin in daily stages as there are plenty of good anchorages from Cape Arnhem onward.

Having left Thursday Island and entered the Arafura Sea, a westerly course should be set that avoids all dangers off the north coast of Australia. Route IS11A continues on this westbound course as far as Cape van Diemen, where it turns south to pass Cape Fourcroy and make landfall at the start of the main shipping channel into Darwin.

Those who decide to sail through the Dundas and Clarence Channels should join that route at Cape Don at the northern entrance into the Dundas Strait. Using this route needs careful planning so as to ideally cover the entire distance of 64 miles on one tide, which can be done provided the wind is favourable. Cap Don, which is four hours before Darwin high water, should be reached at that time. The SSE setting stream starts flowing three hours before Darwin high water and continues until one hour after Darwin high water, with a maximum rate of 3.5 knots at springs. There are various shoals to be avoided on this stretch, so a course should be set to pass east of Abbott Shoals and also east of Rooper Rock close to the entrance into the Howard Channel. This is the recommended shipping channel and is therefore better lit and easier to navigate. The favourable stream starts here at four hours after Darwin high water and turns at two hours before Darwin high water, so one has eight hours of favourable current. Having left the Clarence Strait, a course can be set for Darwin.

Boats that are arriving from other Australian ports need not give the required notice 96 hours prior to ETA. All arriving boats should contact Darwin port authority on channel 16 shortly before arrival and are normally directed to anchor in the quarantine area NW of the commercial harbour. As the boat will be inspected by various officials, permission should be requested from port control to proceed to either the Fisherman’s Wharf or Cullen Bay Marina, which are the most convenient places to be boarded. Darwin is an excellent place to prepare for the continuation of the voyage as it has a comprehensive range of repair and service facilities due to a large fishing fleet being based there. Darwin is also a good place to leave the boat to visit the interior of Australia.

• IS12 Darwin to Torres Strait

BEST TIME: | June, October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IS12A |  |  |  |  |
Darwin X 12°30.0’S, 130°52.0’E | Darwin NW 12°22.0’S, 130°44.0’E | Fourcroy W 11°47.0’S, 129°55.5’E Cape van Diemen 11°02.0’S, 130°17.5’E Dundas NE 10°47.0’S, 132°28.5’E Cape Wessel 10°45.0’S, 136°46.5’E |  |  |
|  | Booby N 10°34.5’S, 141°54.4’E Normanby W 10°34.5’S, 142°08.0’E |  |  |
|  | Normanby N 10°35.0’S, 142°11.5’E | Normanby SE 10°35.5’S, 142°12.7’E | Thursday X 10°35.2’S, 142°13.2’E | 824
Route IS12B |  |  |  |  |
Darwin X | Darwin NW | Clarence W 12°04.6’S, 130°56.0’E Clarence E 12°05.0’S, 131°10.5’E Abbott E 11°50.0’S, 131°33.0’E Cape Don 11°14.5’S, 131°36.0’E Dundas NE Cape Wessel Booby N |  |  |
|  | Normanby W |  |  |
|  | Normanby N | Normanby SE | Thursday X | 742

Eastbound passages from Darwin should be planned for the very end of the transitional period after the end of the SE monsoon and close to the start of the NW monsoon, when there is a reasonable chance of favourable winds. As the NW monsoon coincides with the cyclone season, such passages should not start much later than the recommended time. Both in April and in late October, the prevailing winds are replaced by a period of variable, often lighter winds, when making progress on an eastbound course should be much easier than at other times. However, such a passage ought to be completed before the start of the cyclone season in November, or after the risk of cyclones has decreased to an acceptable level, such as in May.

This is a route that may appeal not only to boats bound for Queensland, but also those who prefer to spend the summer in a place not affected by tropical cyclones and use the opportunity to explore other cruising grounds, such as the eastern part of Papua New Guinea.

The offshore route IS12A is longer but easier to navigate, whereas route IS12B outlines the short cut through the Clarence and Dundas Straits. Those straits are swept by strong tidal streams and the passage must be timed accurately so as to cover the entire distance on one tide, which is possible. The time of departure from Darwin is therefore crucial so as to arrive at the western entrance of the Clarence Strait at the optimum time. Route IS11 gives details of navigating that short cut, albeit in the opposite direction.

The two routes join at the northern exit of the Dundas Strait, from where a course should be set that passes clear of all dangers off the north coast of Australia to make landfall at the western extremity of the Torres Strait. The Normanby Channel leads to Thursday Island, which is the main settlement in the area and where the authorities are based. All boats must report for clearance, although formalities will be simpler if the passage has originated in another Australian port. However, because of strict quarantine regulations, some food items may be confiscated.

• IS13 Westbound from Torres Strait

BEST TIME: | June to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | I1 Torres Strait to Bali |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Southeast Asia Pilot, Cruising Guide to Southeast Asia (Vol II). |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IS13A |  |  |  |  |
Thursday X 10°35.2’S, 142°13.2’E | Normanby W 10°34.5’S, 142°08.0’E | Booby N 10°34.5’S, 141°54.4’E Trangan S 7°17.0’S, 134°03.0’E |  |  |
|  | Tanimbar S | Banda SW | Banda Neira | 831
|  | 6°19.0’S, 131°58.0’E | 4°35.00’S, 129°50.0’E | 4°32.2’S, 129°54.0’E |
|  |  | Ambon SW 3°48.0’S, 128°01.5’E | Ambon 3°42.0’S, 128°10.0’E | 951
Route IS13B |  |  |  |  |
Thursday X | Normanby W | Booby N | Timor E | Dili X | 998
|  |  | 8°18.0’S, 127°25.5’E | 8°33.0’S, 125°34.0’E |
Route IS13C |  |  |  |  |
Thursday X | Normanby W | Booby N | Timor SW | Kupang X | 1122
|  | Roti S 11°05.5’S, 122°50.0’E Sumba SE 10°40.0’S, 120°20.0’E | 10°23.0’S, 123°27.0’E | 10°09.7’S, 123°34.0’E |
|  | Bali SE | Benoa E | Benoa X | 1619
|  | 8°51.0’S, 115°22.0’E | 8°45.0’S, 115°14.7’E | 8°44.7’S, 115°12.7’E |

Westward from the Torres Strait the routes fan out in all directions, and the timing of the passage through this strategic waterway is of utmost importance for those who intend to continue their voyage across the Indian Ocean. Most boats bound for the South Indian Ocean pass through the Torres Strait between June and August. This timing allows them sufficient time to explore some of the islands en route before the approaching cyclone season sends them on their way to South Africa. It also ensures favourable sailing conditions along the entire route. Boats bound for Singapore and the North Indian Ocean have more time at their disposal than those intending to sail around the Cape of Good Hope, so they tend to pass through the Torres Strait later, in September or October. A late arrival may mean that they have missed the best time for the passage to Bali and they should be prepared for light winds and calms on that section. An even later arrival, in November, carries the possible risk of an early cyclone and the best way to avoid such an eventuality is to sail along the north coast of the Southern Indonesian islands where cyclones are not known to occur.

All the above route variations pass through an area where the weather is dominated by the SE and NW monsoons. The trade winds blow strongly from May until August from between SE and SSE and there is a considerable sea. At the start and end of the season the wind is often E backing to ENE. The SE monsoon lasts until the end of October or even November, although SE winds are both lighter and less consistent after the middle of September. The NW monsoon starts in November and coincides with the cyclone season and passages during this time are best avoided. Cyclones are affecting both Northern Australia and Southern Indonesia.

The seasons in the Timor Sea follow almost the same pattern. Sometimes during the SE monsoon the air is laden with dust brought from the Australian desert and visibility can be poor. In the vicinity of land the winds are generally influenced by the contour of the islands, while in the channels between the islands the winds often blow with great force.

Route IS13A should appeal to anyone intending to explore a less travelled part of Indonesia and clear in at one of the nearest ports of entry. Banda Neira, the capital of the Banda Islands, occupies a spectacular setting, the landlocked harbour being encircled by three volcanoes. Clearance formalities are normally dealt with at the harbour master’s office. All foreign yachts must register on the Yacht Electronic Registration System at https:// yachters.beacukai.go.id. This must be done up to 24 hours before arrival at an official port of entry.

An interesting stop close to Banda Neira is Ambon, the capital of the Maluku Province. Formalities are completed in Port Penli, which has a sheltered anchorage in its inner harbour.

A direct course can be sailed from the Torres Strait by boats bound for East Timor and its capital Dili (IS13B). The port is located on the north coast of the large island and offers good protection from SE winds but is open to NW winds. Having contacted the port captain on arrival, visiting boats are usually instructed to proceed to the anchorage close to the main wharf, located at approximately 8°33.10’S, 125°34.5’E.

Boats bound directly for Bali from the Torres Strait on route IS13C should sail a course that heads due west and stays south of all Indonesian islands. Those who prefer to clear into Indonesia at an earlier opportunity should leave this route and make a detour to Kupang, on the west coast of Timor. This is a busy port with no facilities for yachts, where visiting boats normally anchor in the outer harbour. Formalities are usually dealt with by a local agent, who should be contacted in advance.

Continuing west from Timor, the course stays well to the north of the oil-drilling area around 12º00’S, 125º00’E and also avoids the Hibernia and Ashmore Reefs. Ashmore Reef belongs to Australia and cruising boats are allowed to stop there briefly provided they comply with the various restrictions. Taking a short cut through the Roti Channel, between Roti and Timor, is not recommended as currents are very strong.

Past Timor, the effect of the tides and currents becomes more pronounced and west of Ashmore Reef the westerly set can reach 2 knots. A weaker countercurrent, of up to ½ knot, may make itself felt for a few hours every day. Further west, the currents in the Lombok Strait run at considerable rates and can produce dangerous conditions in the approaches to Benoa Harbour when a strong wind is blowing against the current. During the SE monsoon, the main direction of the current is southerly. Because the Lombok Channel is swept by very strong tidal currents, one should avoid closing with Lombok, but try to approach Bali from the SE or even S, rather than E. A strong current will be encountered SW of Lombok where the ocean current setting along the southern coasts of the islands meets the outflowing current from the Lombok Channel, separating the islands of Lombok and Bali. The area abounds with overfalls and breaking seas and can be quite dangerous in strong winds, which fortunately do not occur too often. Also one should be prepared for ghost readings on the depth sounder with sudden shallow readings caused by the different layers of water.

Landfall will be made SW of Nusa Penida, in the approaches to Benoa Harbour, Bali’s main port. A buoyed channel leads through the reef, which is easy to negotiate in daylight, but entering at night is not recommended as the leading lights can be confusing. Because of the strong currents it is preferable to spend the night out at sea, although with care it may be possible to anchor for the night near the landfall buoy if there is not too much swell. Bali International Marina has considerably improved docking facilities in Benoa Harbour. The marina monitors channel 77 and the office will deal with all necessary entry formalities for a fee. As the marina is very small, an alternative place to anchor is Serangan Harbour, approximately ½ mile north of Benoa.

• IS14 Northbound from Darwin

BEST TIME: | June to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IS14A |  |  |  |  |
Darwin X 12°30.0’S, 130°52.0’E | Darwin NW 12°22.0’S, 130°44.0’E | Fourcroy W 11°47.0’S, 129°55.5’E | Timor E 8°18.0’S, 127°25.5’E | Dili X 8°33.0’S, 125°34.0’E | 437
Route IS14B |  |  |  |  |
Darwin X | Darwin NW | Fourcroy W Selaru W 8°19.0’S, 130°16.0’E |  |  |
|  | Serua E 6°18.0’S, 130°12.0’E | Banda SW 4°35.0’S, 129°50.0’E | Banda Neira 4°32.2’S, 129°54.0’E | 510
|  | Ambon SW 3°48.0’S, 128°01.5’E |  | Ambon 3°42.0’S, 128°10.0’E | 609

Northbound passages from Darwin enjoy the best sailing conditions during the SE monsoon, when the weather is settled and favourable winds can be expected for most of the way. Sailing an offshore route to Dili should be preferred rather than approaching East Timor from the south. From Cape Fourcroy, a clear course can be sailed to Pulau Jaco, a small island off the eastern end of Timor.

Boats bound for destinations in the Banda Sea should sail a more easterly course, making landfall west of Selaru Island and continuing due north to pass east of the small island of Serua. At that point, the route splits, continuing either due north to Banda Neira or NE to Ambon. Both these destinations are ports of entry as described in IS13.

Formalities in Indonesia have been greatly simplified, but any inbound yacht must register on the Yacht Electronic Registration System at https://yachters.beacukai.go.id.This must be done up to 24 hours before arrival at an official port of entry.

• IS15 Westbound from Darwin

BEST TIME: | June to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, 4071, US 60, 71 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | I4 Torres Strait to South Africa |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Southeast Asia Pilot, Cruising Guide to Southeast Asia (Vol II). |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IS15A |  |  |  |  |
Darwin X 12°30.0’S, 130°52.0’E | Darwin NW 12°22.0’S, 130°44.0’E |  | Timor SW 10°23.0’S, 123°27.0’E | Kupang X 10°09.7’S, 123°34.0’E | 471
Route IS15B |  |  |  |  |
Darwin X | Darwin NW | Ashmore E 12°10.0’S, 124°22.5’E Ashmore NW 9°42.7’S, 126°27.6’E |  | Ashmore Reef 12°13.0’S, 123°12.7’E | 452
|  | Bali SE 8°51.0’S, 115°22.0’E | Benoa E 8°45.0’S, 115°14.7’E | Benoa X 8°44.7’S, 115°12.7’E | 853
Route IS15C |  |  |  |  |
Darwin X | Darwin NW | [Ashmore E Ashmore NW] | [Christmas NE | Ashmore Reef Flying Fish | 1491
|  | Christmas W] 10°25.5’S, 105°33.0’E | 10°23.0’S, 105°42.0’E | 10°25.4’S, 105°40.3’E |
|  | Keeling N | Direction W | Direction | 1998
|  | 12°03.4’S, 96°52.7’E | 12°05.5’S, 96°52.0’E | 12°05.5’S, 96°52.8’E |

This route leads south of all Indonesian islands. The best conditions on this route will be encountered in July and August, when the SE winds are most regular. At the end of the SE monsoon the winds become irregular, with SSW winds sometimes being encountered in the Timor Sea in October. The route should stay well offshore and boats bound for Bali should not approach the south coast of the Indonesian islands until close to Bali on account of contrary currents. During April, and also in November, winds are often light and there are prolonged periods of calms.

A first stop in Kupang is only recommended for those who would like to clear into Indonesia at the first opportunity. Kupang is a busy port where visiting boats normally anchor in the outer harbour. Any inbound yacht must register on the Yacht Electronic Registration System at https://yachters.beacukai.go.id. This must be done up to 24 hours before arrival at an official port of entry. On arrival, entry formalities are usually dealt with by a local agent, who should be contacted in advance.

Close to this route there are some oil-drilling platforms in the area 12º00’S, 125º00’E, which should be avoided. Although the platforms are easily seen, both day and night, one should not pass too close to them so as not to get entangled in the anchoring cables that stretch a long way away from the platforms and are not easily seen. Further west, the only dangers on the direct route are the Hibernia and Ashmore Reefs south of Timor Island. The passage can be broken at Ashmore Reef, especially if the winds are light. The green reflection of the shallow water can often be seen in the sky long before the actual reef is seen. Currents in the area are usually strong (see also IS13). The best anchorage is in the NW corner of the reef, off a small cay. In good visibility it is fairly easy to thread one’s way among the coral heads. Ashmore Reef is a nature reserve under the jurisdiction of Australia. Australian officials are normally in residence and allow cruising boats to make a brief stop.

Boats bound for Bali will make landfall SW of Nusa Penida, in the approaches to Benoa Harbour. Refer to IS13 for detailed information on the approaches to Benoa, facilities and entry formalities.

Boats on a nonstop passage to Christmas Island can set a direct course from Ashmore Reef that passes well to the south of Indonesia to make landfall on the east coast of Christmas Island. The best anchorage is at Flying Fish Cove. On arrival at Christmas Island, the immigration officer should be contacted on channel 16. Anchoring is prohibited in order to protect the coral and mooring buoys have been installed at Flying Fish Cove for the use of visiting yachts. Every person on board, except New Zealand citizens, must be in possession of an Australian visa. As elsewhere in Australia, quarantine regulations are strict.

At Christmas Island the SE trade winds blow almost continuously from May until December, but in the first months of the year, when the NW monsoon is established in the area to the north of the island, the NW monsoon makes itself felt with occasional heavy rains, strong winds and thunderstorms. In January and February winds can blow strongly from the west or north. The island is normally spared the cyclones that affect the area between it and NW Australia.

The anchorage at Christmas Island can become uncomfortable when the trade winds are at their strongest, a good incentive to up anchor and sail the 500 miles to Cocos Keeling, where there is a safe and beautiful anchorage.

Boats bound for Cocos Keeling should contact Cocos customs on channel 20 when approaching the 12-mile limit. Visiting yachts are requested to anchor off Direction Island, close to the entrance into the lagoon. At night it may be safer to anchor closer to the pass. Night arrivals who have not been able to contact the authorities by radio should call again in the morning. A police officer will visit the boat to complete formalities, but going ashore or having contact with anyone before formalities are completed is prohibited.

• IS16 Westbound from Western Australia

BEST TIME: | June to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4070, US 70 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | I4 Torres Strait to South Africa |  |  |
WAYPOINTS |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IS16A |  |  |  |  |
Fremantle 32°03.3’S, 115°44.0’E Broome 17°59.5’S, 122°14.0’E | Fremantle W 32°01.2’S, 115°37.0’E Broome S 18°01.0’S, 122°12.0’E | Broome W 17°58.0’S, 122°05.5’E |  |  |
|  | Keeling SE |  |  |
|  | 12°12.0’S, 97°00.0’E |  |  |
|  | Keeling N | Direction W | Direction | 1591/1516
|  | 12°03.4’S, 96°52.7’E | 12°05.5’S, 96°52.0’E | 12°05.5’S, 96°52.8’E |
|  | Chagos NE | Salomon NE | Salomon X | 2910/3028
|  | 5°35.0’S, 72°49.0’E | 5°16.5’S, 72°15.5’E | 5°19.3’S, 72 °14.5’E |
Route IS16B |  |  |  |  |
Fremantle | Fremantle W |  |  |  |
Broome | Broome S | Broome W |  |  |
|  | Rodrigues NE | Port Mathurin N | Port Mathurin | 2894/3327
|  | 19°38.0’S, 63°28.0’E Mauritius NE 19°47.5’S, 57°50.0’E Mauritius N 19°48.0’S, 57°35.0’E | 19°40.0’S, 63°25.7’E | 19°40.5’S, 63°25.2’E |
|  | Port Louis NW | Port Louis SE | Port Louis | 3211/3674
|  | 20°07.0’S, 57°27.0’E | 20°08.5’S, 57°28.5’E | 20°09.3’S, 57°29.4’E |

Better sailing conditions usually occur on these routes in June and September–October, when the SE trade winds have either not reached their full strength or have started to diminish. Occasionally strong squalls can be encountered with sudden winds of up to 40 knots. Tropical storms affect the area crossed by this route during the summer months, from November to May, and a passage during this period is therefore not recommended.

The destinations listed above cover a vast area that may entail a considerable detour, but all have their own attractions and, if time permits, should not be missed. Two departure ports from Western Australia are recommended, with passages originating in Broome needing to make a relatively short detour from a westbound route to stop at Cocos Keeling. For boats leaving from Fremantle, Cocos Keeling may be considered too far off the track to merit such a long detour. Whether Cocos Keeling will be included on the itinerary will probably depend on subsequent plans, such as the Seychelles and possibly the west coast of Madagascar. Those who plan to visit only the latter may decide to sail the shorter route to Mauritius, with a possible stop at Rodrigues.

Those who have decided to call at Cocos Keeling will approach the island from SE. The entrance into the lagoon is on its north side, between Horsburgh and Direction Islands. Cocos customs should be contacted on channel 20 at the 12-mile limit, or at 7 a.m. from the anchorage if one arrives outside office hours.

The recommended anchorage for yachts is south of Direction Island and is reached by leaving Direction Island ¼ mile to port. A marker shows where to turn to port to reach the quarantine anchorage marked by a yellow buoy.

Strict regulations apply in Chagos British Indian Ocean Territory. Stopping in any of the islands without having obtained a permit in advance is strictly forbidden. Those stopping without permission, even in an emergency, face a very high fine and confiscation of their yacht. Contact: BIOTAdmin@fco.gov.uk. The recommended landfall at the Chagos Archipelago is at its NE extremity. Landfall will be made north of the Salomon Atoll where a pass leads into the large lagoon. The best anchorage is in the SE corner off Fouquet Island.

Diego Garcia, the main island of the group, is a military base leased by the British government to the USA, which could be one of the reasons for the draconian restrictions.

Those who intend to continue from Chagos to either the Seychelles or Madagascar should refer to IT22 for details of those routes and destinations.

The direct route for boats bound for Mauritius passes close to the island of Rodrigues, which is administered by Mauritius. Those who intend to stop should call Rodrigues Coast Guard when several miles out and give an ETA. An intricate channel, which is preferably navigated in daylight, leads to Port Mathurin, where boats are normally directed to tie up to the commercial dock to complete formalities.

Favourable winds will continue to Mauritius whose only port of entry is the capital Port Louis. Arriving boats must proceed directly there after having called Port Louis port control. On arrival, boats are requested to tie up to the immigration dock where formalities are completed. After formalities are completed, boats may proceed to nearby Caudan Marina.

• IS17 Western Australia to Bass Strait

BEST TIME: | December to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Fremantle | Fremantle W | Naturaliste W |  |  |
32°03.3’S, 115°44.0’E | 32°01.2’S, 115°37.0’E | 33°32.0’S, 114°42.0’E |  |  |
|  | Cape Leeuwin | Otway S | Melbourne X | 1700
|  | 35°24.0’S, 114°46.0’E King S 40°15.0’S, 143°55.0’E | 39°0.0’S, 143°30.0’E | 37°50.8’S, 144°54.3’E |
|  | Rochon N | Devonport N | Devonport | 1756
|  | 40°20.0’S, 144°59.0’E | 41°09.0’S, 146°22.0’E | 41°10.5’S, 146°21.8’E |

Sailing across the Great Australian Bight can be done either in one long leg to the Bass Strait or in short coastal stages by stopping at various places en route. The offshore route has the advantage of more constant winds as the Great Australian Bight is renowned for its baffling winds in summer. Those who have sailed the transocean route IS63 from South Africa to Western Australia, and wish to continue eastwards, can rejoin that offshore route after rounding Cape Leeuwin.

From Fremantle, the initial course runs down the coast past Cape Naturaliste. The next course alteration takes the route south of Cape Leeuwin. From that point, a direct course can be set right across the Great Australian Bight to make landfall south of King Island, in the western approaches to the Bass Strait. Extreme caution must be exercised when approaching the Bass Strait from westward, especially at night or in bad visibility, because of the strong currents that sweep through the strait. A convenient stop on the north coast of Tasmania is Devonport. Visiting yachts are welcome at the Mersey Yacht Club on the eastern bank of the River Mersey, just before the bridge.

The alternative is to make landfall at Cape Otway on the Australian mainland and head north for Melbourne. Arriving boats are normally instructed to go directly to the boarding station in Westernport to be inspected by quarantine and customs officials.

Vessels bound for Sydney direct, from either Western Australia or Cape Town, will encounter better conditions in summer by sailing a more southerly course where the proportion of westerly winds will be higher. During the recommended time, conditions on the recommended route will be generally pleasant but with less likelihood of consistent favourable winds than farther south. Therefore, those whose final destination is in New South Wales should consider avoiding Bass Strait and sailing south of Tasmania. After passing Tasmania, the course should only turn north after longitude 155ºE has been passed, so as to avoid the full effect of the south-setting Australian Current and approach Sydney from offshore where the current is weaker and the winds are steadier.

IS20 • Routes from Indonesia

• | IS21 | Westbound from Bali | 537
• | IS22 | Bali to Western Australia | 539
• | IS23 | Indonesia to Darwin | 540
• | IS24 | Indonesia to Torres Strait | 541

Indonesia’s vast potential as one of the best-endowed cruising grounds in the world has been recognised for a long time, but it is only in recent years that the Indonesian authorities have responded in a positive way by starting to simplify the rigid regulations imposed on cruising boats in the past. The notable exception was Bali and for many years this attractive island was the only experience of Indonesia gained by passing sailors. This is primarily due to its strategic position astride one of the main routes sailed by cruising boats on a world voyage. Since Bali is also a very attractive island with lots to see and do, it is rarely bypassed by anyone sailing through the area. As an important cruising hub in this part of the world, routes fan out from Bali in every direction. Some of them cross the equator and are described in the transequatorial section.

Bali and the surrounding islands are under the influence of the NW and SE monsoons, although the high mountains and irregular coastline cause significant modifications to local weather conditions and the high Indonesian islands often block the monsoons completely. Strong winds are quite rare, although some squalls can be violent, and as these often develop suddenly they can be quite dangerous to those caught unaware. Tropical cyclones are also very rare, the only area affected being near Timor and Flores Islands, with an average of less than one storm per year, in the period from January to April. Although conditions may vary locally as the Indonesian Archipelago stretches over a vast area, generally the SE monsoon lasts from April to October and the NW monsoon from November to March. Among the islands east of Java, which include Bali, the SE monsoon blows strongly from the ESE, being at its height during June, July and August. The NW monsoon sets in about December and attains its maximum strength in January. The NW monsoon is the wet season, with the highest rainfall in December and January, when squalls are most frequent.

IS20 Routes from Indonesia

Along the northern shores of the higher islands, winds in both seasons are steadier during the night, being influenced by land and sea breezes. For this reason, most Indonesian sailing craft tend to make their passages at night, keeping close to the shore. Land and sea breezes are very important for those planning to sail in these waters and are more pronounced along the coasts of larger islands, but weaker on smaller islands. These breezes are at their strongest when the monsoons are weak. The change from land to sea breeze occurs in the middle of the morning, while that from sea to land breeze occurs shortly after sunset near mountainous coasts and later in the night near flat country. The breeze gets weaker away from the shore but can be felt up to 20 miles offshore. The breezes are strongest near mountainous country sloping gradually to the sea and are also stronger on clear days.

• IS21 Westbound from Bali

BEST TIME: | June, September to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4070, US 70 |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IS21A |  |  |  |  |
Benoa X 8°44.7’S, 115°12.7’E | Benoa E 8°45.0’S, 115°14.7’E | Bali S 8°51.5’S, 115°16.0’E Christmas W 10°25.5’S, 105°33.0’E [Blenheim SE 5°16.5’S, 72°30.5’E | Christmas NE 10°23.0’S, 105°42.0’E | Flying Fish 10°25.4’S, 105°40.3’E | 585
|  | Salomon NE 5°16.5’S, 72°15.5’E Peros Banhos N 5°31.0’S, 71°50.0’E Chagos W] 6°13.0’S, 71°13.4’E | Pass 5°17.5’S, 72°12.2’E | Salomon X 5°19.3’S, 72°14.5’E | 2584
|  | [Rodrigues NE] 19°38.0’S, 63°28.0’E Mauritius NE 19°47.5’S, 57°50.0’E Mauritius N 19°48.0’S, 57°35.0’E | Port Mathurin N 19°40.0’S, 63°25.7’E | Port Mathurin 19°40.5’S, 63°25.2’E | 3081
|  | Port Louis NW 20°07.0’S, 57°27.0’E | Port Louis SE 20°08.5’S, 57°28.5’E | Port Louis 20°09.3’S, 57°29.4’E | 3434
Route IS21B |  |  |  |  |
Benoa X | Benoa E | Bali S |  |  |
|  | Keeling N 12°03.4’S, 96°52.7’E | Direction W 12°05.5’S, 96°52.0’E | Direction 12°05.5’S, 96°52.8’E | 1113
|  | Rodrigues NE Mauritius NE Mauritius N | Port Mathurin N | Port Mathurin | 3091
|  | Port Louis NW | Port Louis SE | Port Louis | 3443

Westbound routes from Bali share several common features and have been grouped into two batches, a northern branch bound for Christmas Island and Chagos, and a southern branch bound for Cocos Keeling and Mauritius. Generally pleasant sailing conditions can be expected during the austral winter months when the majority of boats sail along these routes. The trade winds blow strongly in July and August, but sometimes there are years when the trade winds fail to be established and winds are either very light or can blow at gale force for several days. At Christmas Island the SE trade winds blow almost continuously from May until December. In the first months of the year, when the NW monsoon is established in the area to the north of the island, occasionally this monsoon makes itself felt with heavy rains, strong winds and thunderstorms. In January and February, winds can blow strongly from the west or north. Christmas Island is normally spared the cyclones that affect the area between it and Northwest Australia.

From Benoa Harbour, the direct route runs south of Java to make landfall east of Christmas Island. The best anchorage is at Flying Fish Cove. On arrival at Christmas Island, the immigration officer should be contacted on channel 16. Anchoring is prohibited in order to protect the coral and mooring buoys have been installed at Flying Fish Cove for the use of visiting yachts. Every person on board, except New Zealand citizens, must be in possession of an Australian visa. As the island is an Australian territory, similar visa requirements apply as in Australia itself and those arriving without a visa may not be allowed to stay. The strict Australian food quarantine regulations also apply. The Australian Border Force must be notified 96 hours prior to arrival at either Christmas Island or Cocos Keeling. Details of the boat, crew, last port, if there are animals or firearms on board, and ETA should be emailed to yachtreport@homeaffairs.gov.au.

Passages from Bali to Chagos can be sailed either directly or with detours to Christmas or Cocos Keeling Islands. The direct route from Bali runs slightly north of latitude 10ºS where good sailing conditions can be expected throughout the SE monsoon and the risk of cyclones is very low. Although this route is under the general influence of the SE trade winds, strong winds from the southern quarter are not unusual during the winter months and they are often accompanied by a big swell. Rough seas have been encountered, especially around longitude 90ºE, the ocean disturbance being apparently caused by a submarine mountain ridge.

As a British overseas territory, Chagos has a special status, and Diego Garcia, the main island of the group, has been leased by the British government to the USA as a military base. Stops at Diego Garcia are only permitted in an emergency. Severe restrictions on visiting yachts have been introduced by the British authorities in recent years, who continue to administer this British Indian Ocean Territory. Stopping in any of the islands without having obtained a permit in advance is strictly forbidden. Those stopping without permission, even in an emergency, face a very high fine and confiscation of their yacht. Contact: BIOTAdmin@fco.gov.uk. The situation may change in the future as the indigenous Ilois population, who were resettled in Mauritius, have been campaigning for the right to return to their homeland and have won several legal actions, so finally they may be allowed to reclaim their land.

For boats arriving from the east the recommended landfall is at the NE extremity of the Chagos Archipelago, SE of Blenheim Reef. From there, a course can be set for the Salomon Atoll, which has a pass on its north side that leads into the large lagoon. The best anchorage is in the SE corner off Fouquet Island. Chagos enjoys South Indian Ocean weather with SE trade winds from April to October, but as the islands are close to the upper limit of the trade winds, they can be light and more variable. From December to March, when the ITCZ moves south, the NE monsoon is deflected south of the equator to give a NW flow. The NW monsoon is not so reliable, brings rain, and blows most strongly in January and February. The period of the NW monsoon is also the cyclone season, but these storms normally form south of Chagos and move in a southerly direction. They rarely track north towards the equator. Even if rarely visited by tropical cyclones, the archipelago can be affected by violent squalls that accompany a passing front.

On the direct route from Bali to Cocos Keeling, the SE trade winds are normally found once a boat has left the influence of the Indonesian Archipelago, so it is recommended to head offshore as soon as possible. At the height of the SE trade wind season, the winds on this route, and especially closer to Cocos Keeling, can be quite strong. Combined with a large swell from the south, this can produce rather uncomfortable conditions. Better conditions will be experienced at the beginning of the winter season, during May and June.

Boats bound for Cocos Keeling should contact Cocos Customs on channel 20 when approaching the 12-mile limit. Landfall at South Cocos is made NE of Direction Island. The entrance into the large and well-protected lagoon is west of Direction Island. Visiting yachts are requested to anchor off Direction Island, close to the entrance into the lagoon. The recommended anchorage is marked by a yellow quarantine buoy. Arrivals must anchor in its vicinity and wait to be cleared. A police officer will visit the boat to complete formalities, but going ashore or having contact with anyone before formalities are completed is prohibited. Strict food quarantine regulations apply and any fresh produce may be confiscated. Tinned food that is not of Australian origin may also be seized. Australian visas are compulsory for all crew members, including the captain.

From Cocos Keeling, the westbound route continues to Mauritius. As sailing conditions at the height of the SE trade wind season can be quite boisterous on this stretch of the South Indian Ocean, the recommended time is outside the period when the trade winds are in full force. Between July and August, the winds often blow at 25 knots and occasionally reach gale force. There is also often a cross swell, which makes for uncomfortable passages. Conditions generally improve closer to Mauritius, where landfall will be made close to North Island. The only port of entry is the capital Port Louis and boats must proceed directly there. Port control should be contacted on channel 16 before entering the harbour. Yachts are directed to tie up to the immigration dock where formalities are completed. After formalities have been dealt with, boats may proceed to nearby Caudan Marina. As the port is not open after darkness, if arriving at night permission should be requested to anchor outside.

Some boats break the voyage at Rodrigues, which is administered by Mauritius, and this makes an interesting stop. Boats planning to call at Rodrigues should call Rodrigues Coast Guard when several miles out and give an ETA. An intricate channel, which is preferably navigated in daylight, leads to Port Mathurin, where boats are normally directed to tie up to the commercial dock to complete formalities. The clearance is only valid locally and must be renewed on arrival in Mauritius.

• IS22 Bali to Western Australia

BEST TIME: | June, October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, 4070, US 60, 70 |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Benoa X 8°44.7’S, 115°12.7’E | Benoa E 8°45.0’S, 115°14.7’E | Bali SE 8°51.0’S, 115°22.0’E |  |  |
|  | Broome W 17°58.0’S, 122°05.5’E | Broome S 18°01.0’S, 122°12.0’E | Broome 17°59.5’S, 122°14.0’E | 694
|  | Shark Bay W 25°30.0’S, 111°56.0’E | Fremantle W 32°01.2’S, 115°37.0’E | Fremantle 32°03.3’S, 115°44.0’E | 1472

Sailing conditions to these two destinations in Western Australia could not be more different as passages to Broome will be sailed on a reasonable wind angle, whereas those to Fremantle will be hard on the wind. For this reason, planning a passage to Fremantle is no easy matter. Sailing south at the height of the SE trade wind season should not even be considered and, from past reports, such an attempt will be hard on the crew and even harder on the boat. More benign conditions can be expected at the change of seasons, with best conditions being reported for April. However, this is still a time when there is a risk of a tropical storm, and often such late cyclones are particularly violent.

Boats bound for Broome should contact Port Broome on channel 16 for berthing instructions. Normally boats are directed to the boarding station to be inspected by quarantine and customs. Visiting boats may use the services of Port Broome Marina, which has a good range of facilities.

Shortly before landfall at Fremantle, port control should be contacted on channel 16. Arriving boats are normally directed to the boarding station located at the Fremantle Sailing Club, south of the commercial harbour.

Foreign-flagged boats bound for any port in Australia must contact the authorities and give notice at least 96 hours prior to ETA. There are severe penalties for not doing this and also for stopping anywhere before having cleared in. With the exception of New Zealand citizens, all foreign visitors must arrive with a valid Australian visa. Email yachtreport@border.gov.au. See the government website www.abf.gov.au for further details.

• IS23 Indonesia to Darwin

BEST TIME: | June, October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IS23A |  |  |  |  |
Benoa X 8°44.7’S, 115°12.7’E | Benoa E 8°45.0’S, 115°14.7’E | Bali SE 8°51.0’S, 115°22.0’E | Ashmore NW 12°15.0’S, 122°37.0’E | Ashmore Reef 12°13.0’S, 123°12.7’E | 520
|  | Ashmore E 12°10.0’S, 124°22.5’E | Darwin NW 12°22.0’S, 130°44.0’E | Darwin X 12°30.0’S, 130°52.0’E | 953
Route IS23B |  |  |  |  |
Ambon 3°42.0’S, 128°10.0’E Banda Neira 4°32.2’S, 129°54.0’E | Ambon SW 3°48.0’S, 128°1.5’E Banda SW 4°35.0’S, 129°50.0’E | Serua E 6°18.0’S, 130°12.0’E Selaru W 8°19.0’S, 130°16.0’E |  |  |
|  | Fourcroy W 11°47.0’S, 129°55.5’E | Darwin NW | Darwin X | 609/510

There are basically only two options for anyone intending to sail east from Bali: to sail short legs along the chain of Indonesian islands or to take the offshore route. The first option is feasible at practically any time of the year and, by sailing along the north coast of the islands, you would be able to take advantage of the diurnal alternation between land and sea breezes. The second option can only be recommended at the change of seasons, from the SE to the NW monsoon, and vice versa. It is stressed, however, that the eastbound passage ought to be completed before the onset of the cyclone season in November, or after the risk of cyclones has decreased to an acceptable level, such as in May.

The recommended offshore route stays south of all Indonesian islands and also clear of an agglomeration of oil platforms (12º00’S, 125º00’E) as well as the reefs of Ashmore and Hibernia. The passage may be interrupted at Ashmore Reef, which belongs to Australia. There is a good anchorage in the lee of a small cay close to the NW corner of the reef. Australian officials are based there and brief stops are usually tolerated.

Darwin port authority should be contacted on channel 16 shortly before arrival and boats are normally directed to anchor in the quarantine area NW of the commercial harbour. As the boat will be inspected by various officials, permission should be requested from port control to proceed to either the Fisherman’s Wharf or Cullen Bay Marina, which are the most convenient places to be boarded.

The Australian Border Force must be notified 96 hours prior to arrival. Details of the boat, crew, last port, if there are animals or firearms on board, and ETA should be emailed to yachtreport@homeaffairs.gov.au. There are severe penalties for not doing this and also for stopping anywhere before having cleared in. With the exception of New Zealand citizens, all foreign visitors must arrive with a valid Australian visa. See the government website www. abf.gov.au for further details.

• IS24 Indonesia to Torres Strait

BEST TIME: | May, October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4060, US 60 |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IS24A |  |  |  |  |
Benoa X 8°44.7’S, 115°12.7’E | Benoa E 8°45.0’S, 115°14.7’E | Bali SE 8°51.0’S, 115°22.0’E Sumba SE 10°40.0’S, 120°20.0’E |  |  |
|  | Roti S 11°05.5’S, 122°50.0’E Dundas NE 10°47.0’S, 132°28.5’E Cape Wessel 10°45.0’S, 136°46.5’E | Timor SW 10°23.0’S, 123°27.0’E | Kupang X 10°09.7’S, 123°34.0’E | 545
|  | Booby N 10°34.5’S, 141°54.4’E | Normanby W 10°34.5’S, 142°08.0’E | Thursday X 10°35.2’S, 142°13.2’E | 1617
Route IS24B |  |  |  |  |
Ambon 3°42.0’S, 128°10.0’E Banda Neira 4°32.2’S, 129°54.0’E | Ambon SW 3°48.0’S, 128°01.5’E Banda SW 4°35.0’S, 129°50.0’E | Tanimbar S 6°19.0’S, 131°58.0’E Trangan S 7°17.0’S, 134°03.0’E |  |  |
|  | Booby N | Normanby W | Thursday X | 951/831

Passages to the Torres Strait from anywhere in Indonesia are a challenging proposition because of the prevailing SE and E winds that blow in the Timor and Arafura Seas throughout the safe season. Passages starting in Bali have two options: to sail an inshore route along the north coasts of the chain of Indonesian islands, or to take the offshore route. The northern option can be attempted at practically any time of the year as that area is hardly ever affected by tropical storms. Another benefit is the ability to take advantage of the diurnal alternation between land and sea breezes. Passages that originate in the Banda Sea will face the same challenges, with the added inconvenience of not being able to sail an inshore route.

The offshore option can only be recommended at the change of seasons. Both in May and in late October, the prevailing winds are replaced by a period of variable, often lighter, winds, when making progress should be much easier than at other times. However, such a passage ought to be completed before the start of the cyclone season in November, or after the risk of cyclones has decreased to an acceptable level, such as in May.

Having crossed the Arafura Sea, landfall will be made at the western entrance into the Torres Strait, from where the Normanby Channel leads to Thursday Island, the main settlement in the Torres Strait. On arrival, port control should be contacted on channel 16 during office hours. Cruising boats are normally directed to the customs dock, or to one of the nearby anchorages if the winds are too strong to come alongside. Even stricter quarantine regulations apply here than in the rest of Australia, and certain fresh food items will be confiscated. All foreign-flagged vessels must give the Australian authorities notice of arrival at least 96 hours before ETA, and this includes arrivals at Thursday Island.

IS30 • Routes in the Central Indian Ocean

• | IS31 | Christmas Island to Cocos Keeling | 543
• | IS32 | Christmas Island to Chagos | 543
• | IS33 | Cocos Keeling to Chagos | 544
• | IS34 | Cocos Keeling to Mauritius | 545
• | IS35 | Chagos to Seychelles | 546
• | IS36 | Chagos to Mauritius | 546
• | IS37 | Chagos to Madagascar | 547

The islands of the South Indian Ocean provide one of the most attractive cruising grounds in the world, yet the number of boats that visit them is relatively small. There are several reasons for this: the remoteness of the islands from the major cruising routes, the restrictions imposed on the movement of cruising boats in some of the islands, and the fact that by the time they have reached the Indian Ocean most sailors on a world voyage have run out of time.

Westbound boats normally cross the South Indian Ocean along one of two routes, the majority sailing the traditional route from the Torres Strait to Cocos Keeling, Mauritius and South Africa. A smaller number of boats sail the more northern route that calls at Chagos before continuing to Madagascar and on to South Africa via the Mozambique Channel. The former is the quicker and more straightforward route, whereas the latter provides more attractive cruising as it offers several alternatives including a possible detour to the Seychelles. Concerning Chagos, it must be stressed that strict regulations are now in force. Stopping in any of the islands without having obtained a permit in advance is strictly forbidden. Those stopping without permission, even in an emergency, face a very high fine and confiscation of their yacht. Contact: BIOTAdmin@fco.gov.uk.

The routes are mostly under the influence of the SE monsoon, which lasts from April until October. The best sailing season is during the austral winter, from June to September. In some of the islands in lower latitudes, such as Chagos or the Seychelles, the SE trade winds can be light and more variable, especially outside the peak winter months. From December to March, when the ITCZ moves south, the NE monsoon in the North Indian Ocean is deflected south of the equator and provides a flow of NW winds. The weather in summer is less attractive, with a hot and humid NW monsoon in the north and the danger of tropical cyclones in the south.

IS30 Routes in the Central Indian Ocean

• IS31 Christmas Island to Cocos Keeling

BEST TIME: | June to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4070, US 70 |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Flying Fish | Christmas W | Keeling N | Direction W | Direction | 530
10°25.4’S, 105°40.3’E | 10°25.5’S, 105°33.0’E | 12°03.4’S, 96°52.7’E | 12°05.5’S, 96°52.0’E | 12°05.5’S, 96°52.8’E |

During the SE monsoon the sailing conditions on this route are almost always favourable. Occasionally the trades cease to blow for a while, but periods of calms or light winds are usually short-lived. The one unpleasant feature of this route is the large swell from the south or southwest. Because the wind blows from the SE and the swell is almost at right angles to the direction of the wind, the motion can be very uncomfortable.

A direct route links these two Australian possessions. From west of Christmas Island, a direct course can be set to make landfall on the north side of the South Cocos Atoll. Boats bound for Cocos Keeling should contact Cocos Customs on channel 20 when approaching the 12-mile limit. The pass into the large lagoon is west of Direction Island. Visiting yachts are requested to anchor off Direction Island, where the recommended anchorage is marked by a yellow quarantine buoy. Arrivals must anchor in its vicinity and wait to be cleared. A police officer will visit the boat to complete formalities, but going ashore or having contact with anyone before formalities are completed is prohibited. Strict food quarantine regulations apply and any fresh produce may be confiscated. Tinned food that is not of Australian origin may also be seized. Australian visas are compulsory for all crew members, including the captain.

Cocos Keeling, and Direction Island especially, is a long-time favourite with cruising sailors. The uninhabited Direction Island has been set up by the local authorities as a base for visiting sailors, with a roofed terrace, rainwater catchment tanks and barbecue. After formalities have been completed, visitors are free to enjoy this unspoilt island, its pristine beach and waters surrounding it.

• IS32 Christmas Island to Chagos

BEST TIME: | June to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4070, US 70 |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Flying Fish 10°25.4’S, 105°40.3’E | Christmas W 10°25.5’S, 105°33.0’E | Blenheim SE 5°16.5’S, 72°30.5’E |  |  |
|  | Salomon NE | Pass | Salomon X | 2015
|  | 5°16.5’S, 72°15.5’E | 5°17.5’S, 72°12.2’E | 5°19.3’S, 72 °14.5’E |

Few boats bypass Cocos Keeling Island and sail directly from Christmas Island to Chagos. However, in unsettled weather it might be preferable to sail a direct course, rather than make the detour to the south. The winter months of May to September provide both favourable winds and current. The weather on this route is similar to that on routes IS31 and IS33, to which reference should be made.

The recommended landfall at Chagos is at the NE extremity of the archipelago, SE of Blenheim Reef. From there, a course can be set for the Salomon Atoll, which has a pass on its north side that leads into the large lagoon. The best anchorage is in the SE corner off Fouquet Island. Chagos enjoys South Indian Ocean weather with SE trade winds from April to November, but as the islands are close to the upper limit of the trade winds, they can be light and more variable. From December to March, when the ITCZ moves south, the NE monsoon of the North Indian Ocean is deflected south of the equator to give a NW flow of wind. The NW monsoon of the South Indian Ocean is a period of unsettled weather, often accompanied by rain, and blows most strongly in January and February. The period of the NW monsoon is also the cyclone season, but these storms normally form south of Chagos and move in a southerly direction. They rarely track north towards the equator. Even if rarely visited by tropical cyclones, the archipelago can be affected by violent squalls that accompany a passing front.

As a British overseas territory, Chagos has a special status, and Diego Garcia, the main island of the group, has been leased by the British government to the USA as a military base. Stops at Diego Garcia are only permitted in an emergency. Severe restrictions on visiting yachts have been introduced by the British authorities in recent years, who continue to administer this British Indian Ocean Territory. Stopping in any of the islands without having obtained a permit in advance is strictly forbidden. Those stopping without permission, even in an emergency, face a very high fine and confiscation of their yacht. Contact: BIOTAdmin@fco.gov.uk. The situation may change in the future as the indigenous Ilois population, who were resettled in Mauritius, have been campaigning for the right to return to their homeland and have won several legal actions, so finally they may be allowed to reclaim their land.

• IS33 Cocos Keeling to Chagos

BEST TIME: | June to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4070, US 70 |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Direction 12°05.5’S, 96°52.8’E | Direction W 12°05.5’S, 96°52.0’E | Keeling N 12°03.4’S, 96°52.7’E Chagos NE 5°35.0’S, 72°49.0’E |  |  |
|  | Salomon NE | Pass | Salomon X | 1525
|  | 5°16.5’S, 72°15.5’E | 5°17.5’S, 72°12.2’E | 5°19.3’S, 72 °14.5’E |

For the duration of the SE monsoon, both winds and current are favourable along this route. Occasionally in July and August the trade winds blow very strongly south of latitude 10ºS, but such conditions are less common further north. Better sailing conditions are often encountered at the beginning and end of the SE monsoon, September being considered to be the best month. During the NE monsoon of the North Indian Ocean, the influence of this monsoon makes itself felt as far south as latitude 10ºS. Between January and April, winds are less constant in direction and usually have a northerly component. The weather in the transition period between monsoons is often unsettled, with overcast skies and rain squalls, often accompanied by violent winds.

Having left the lagoon at Cocos Keeling through the North Entrance, a direct course can be set to make landfall south of Blenheim Reef at the NE extremity of the Chagos Archipelago. From there, the course can be altered for the pass leading into the lagoon at Salomon Island. The anchorage in the SE corner off Fouquet Island provides the best shelter in the prevailing SE winds. Further west, the Peros Banhos Atoll is another favourite with cruising sailors, but the attractive Egmont Atoll, south of Chagos Bank, is now out of bounds and can no longer be visited. See IS32 for more details on Chagos and the strict formalities.

• IS34 Cocos Keeling to Mauritius

BEST TIME: | June, September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4070, US 70 |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Direction 12°05.5’S, 96°52.8’E | Direction W 12°05.5’S, 96°52.0’E | Keeling N 12°03.4’S, 96°52.7’E |  |  |
|  | [Rodrigues NE] 19°38.0’S, 63°28.0’E Mauritius NE 19°47.5’S, 57°50.0’E Mauritius N 19°48.0’S, 57°35.0’E | Port Mathurin N 19°40.0’S, 63°25.7’E | Port Mathurin 19°40.5’S, 63°25.2’E | 1984
|  | Port Louis NW 20°07.0’S, 57°27.0’E | Port Louis SE 20°08.5’S, 57°28.5’E | Port Louis 20°09.3’S, 57°29.4’E | 2335

This long haul across the breadth of the South Indian Ocean has the full benefit of the SE trade winds during the southern winter months, from May to October. The pleasure of a fast passage is often marred by an uncomfortable cross swell, which rolls in relentlessly from the Southern Ocean. The weather is generally rougher in the proximity of Cocos Keeling and both winds and seas usually moderate after the halfway mark to Mauritius has been passed. The trade winds continue to blow consistently in October, but the weather becomes more squally and the chances of encountering gale force winds are greater. Although it would appear that by making a sweep to the north it would be possible to avoid the area with the highest frequency of gale force winds, this does not seem to be the case. Boats that have arrived in Mauritius by a more roundabout way have encountered equally rough conditions as those that sailed a direct course.

Boats normally leave the lagoon at South Cocos by the Northern Entrance, although in good light, and if there is not a large swell, it is possible to thread one’s way SW across the lagoon and leave by the West Entrance. The Northern Entrance, however, is easier to navigate and therefore safer. Having reached the open sea, a direct course can be set for Mauritius. As sailing conditions at the height of the SE trade wind season can be quite boisterous on this stretch of the South Indian Ocean, the passage should be timed for the period when the trade winds have lost some of their force. Between July and September, the winds often blow at 25 knots, or even more, and occasionally reach gale force. Conditions generally improve closer to Mauritius, where landfall will be made close to North Island. The only port of entry is the capital Port Louis and boats must proceed directly there. Port control should be contacted on channel 16 before entering the harbour. Yachts are directed to tie up to the immigration dock where formalities are completed. After formalities have been dealt with, boats may proceed to nearby Caudan Marina. As the port is not open after darkness, if arriving at night permission should be requested to anchor outside.

The voyage may be interrupted at Rodrigues Island, which is administered by Mauritius. Boats planning to stop there should call Rodrigues Coast Guard when several miles out and give an ETA. Cruising boats are always welcome and a local boat sometimes comes out to guide the visiting yacht to the entrance. An intricate channel, which is preferably navigated in daylight, leads to Port Mathurin, where boats are normally directed to tie up to the commercial dock to complete formalities. The clearance is only valid locally and must be renewed on arrival in Mauritius.

• IS35 Chagos to Seychelles

BEST TIME: | June to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4070, US 70 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Indian Ocean Cruising Guide, Seychelles Nautical Pilot. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Peros Banhos X 5°20.8’S, 71°51.7’E | Chagos NW 4°56.0’S, 71°37.0’E | Fregate E 4°35.0’S, 55°59.0’E |  |  |
|  | Fregate S 4°37.0’S, 55°55.0’E | Mahé E 4°39.5’S, 55°33.0’E | Victoria X 4°37.5’S, 55°27.5’E | 990

The SE monsoon should be favoured for this route, which has the best weather between May and September, when both winds and current are favourable. Near perfect sailing conditions have been reported on passages in May and June. Later in the year the NE monsoon of the North Indian Ocean starts making itself felt south of the equator, the transitional months of October and November being associated with light winds, calm seas and the occasional violent rain squall.

A good place to leave from Chagos is Peros Banhos. Having left the large lagoon through the Northwest Pass, from north of Diamond Island the route runs due west along parallel 5ºS. The route is clear of dangers, but the Seychelles should be approached with caution because of the rocks and reefs that surround them. The safest approach is to make landfall at Fregate Island, the easternmost point of the Seychelles. The route continues due west to Mahé and the capital Victoria. The harbour master should be contacted on channel 16. Arriving boats are normally directed to the anchorage in the inner harbour, where visiting sailors may use the facilities of the nearby Seychelles Yacht Club.

• IS36 Chagos to Mauritius

BEST TIME: | June, September to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4070, US 70 |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Peros Banhos X 5°20.8’S, 71°51.7’E | Peros Banhos N 5°11.0’S, 71°47.0’E | Peros Banhos S 5°31.0’S, 71°50.0’E Chagos W 6°13.0’S, 71 °13.4’E Mauritius N 19°48.0’S, 57°35.0’E |  |  |
|  | Port Louis NW | Port Louis SE | Port Louis | 1249
|  | 20°07.0’S, 57°27.0’E | 20°08.5’S, 57°28.5’E | 20°09.3’S, 57°29.4’E |

A windward passage during most of the SE trade wind season, this route can benefit from better winds at the beginning and end of winter, when the trade winds do not have too much south in them. It has been noticed that the stronger the SE trade winds, the more south there is in them and vice versa. Therefore it may be worth waiting for a spell of SE or even E winds. If the winds are easterly, it may be possible to call first at Rodrigues Island before continuing to Mauritius (see route IS34).

The traditional departure point for a passage to Mauritius used to be the Egmont Atoll, south of Chagos Bank, but the atoll has been declared out of bounds for security reasons by the authorities in charge of the British Ocean Indian Territory. Therefore passages starting from either Salomon or Peros Banhos should set an initial course that passes west of Chagos Bank and the dangers associated with it. From there, the direct route to Mauritius passes well to the east of Cargados Carajos Reef, which belongs to Mauritius. Boats that have not yet cleared into Mauritius are not allowed to stop there without prior permission. Landfall is made off Flat Island, NW of Mauritius. From there, the course should be altered to sail along the west coast to Port Louis, the island’s main harbour. Refer to route AS34 for details of procedure at arrival.

• IS37 Chagos to Madagascar

BEST TIME: | June, September to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4070, US 70 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | East Africa Pilot. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IS37A |  |  |  |  |
Peros Banhos X 5°20.8’S, 71°51.7’E | Peros Banhos N 5°11.0’S, 71°47.0’E | Saya S 12°09.0’S, 61°46.0’E | Antsiranana E 12°13.0’S, 49°26.0’E | Antsiranana X 12°16.3’S, 49°17.1’E | 1470
Route IS37B |  |  |  |  |
Peros Banhos X | Peros Banhos N | Agalega NW 10°16.0’S, 56°26.0’E Madagascar N 11°25.0’S, 49°16.0’E Madagascar NW 12°10.0’S, 48°34.0’E Nosy Be NE 13°11.5’S, 48°23.5’E |  |  |
|  | Nosy Be SE 13°25.0’S, 48°23.7’E | Nosy Be S 13°25.0’S, 48°17.0’E | Hell-Ville 13°24.3’S, 48°17.0’E | 1545

Although most cruising boats bound for South Africa continue to sail the traditional route that passes east of Madagascar, the two routes outlined here provide the opportunity to call at Madagascar and continue the voyage either east or west of the large island. Route IS37A is bound for the former with a suggested first port of call at Antsiranana, near Madagascar’s northern extremity. Route IS37B is bound for the attractive cruising grounds on the island’s west coast, and the option of continuing the voyage through the Mozambique Channel.

From Peros Banhos, the direct route to Cap d’Ambré, at the northern point of Madagascar, cuts across Saya de Malha Bank, an area of strong tidal sets and rips. To avoid the worst part of this area, and also to approach Madagascar from a better angle, an initial course should be set to pass well to the south of the bank. This not only avoids that area but also sails the remaining distance on the latitude of Cap d’Ambré. The purpose of this tactic is that as the SE trade winds hit the mass of Madagascar, their direction becomes more southerly, therefore approaching the island from the east, rather than NE, ensures that the winds are met at a better angle. When the trade winds are well established their strength may attain an acceleration of 15 to 20 knots in this area, and the rough and confused sea conditions north of Cap d’Ambré have been described as a witches’ cauldron. It may be wise to avoid that area altogether by giving Cap d’Ambré a very wide berth and passing well to the north of it. In some instances it may be necessary to pass the cape as much as 15 or 20 miles to the north to avoid the rough seas. Compared to the attractions of the NW area of Madagascar, the appeal of Antsiranana may not be enough of a temptation to put up with such conditions. Those who decide to call at this landlocked harbour, formerly known as Diego Suarez, should contact the port captain when entering the bay. Normally cruising boats are requested to proceed to the commercial port to complete entry formalities. Afterwards, good shelter will be found at an anchorage in the SW part of the wide bay, where a marina is under construction. Visas are no longer issued on arrival and must be obtained in advance online: www.evisamada.gov.mg/en/.

Route IS37B is bound for the NW coast of Madagascar

on a course that passes north of Saya de Malha Bank and Agalega Island. Bearing in mind the above comments, the course should pass well to the north of Cap d’Ambré before altering course for the next waypoint set NW of Madagascar. From that point, a new course can be set for the island of Nosy Be. The island is at the centre of an attractive area that in recent years has become a popular cruising destination. The port of entry is Hell‑Ville (Andoany), located on the south coast of Nosy Be. The port captain should be contacted on channel 16 and boats are normally advised to anchor off the commercial dock. Formalities are completed at various offices located nearby.

IS40 • Routes in the Western Indian Ocean

• | IS41 | Seychelles to Chagos | 549
• | IS42 | Southbound from Seychelles | 549
• | IS43 | Seychelles to West Madagascar and Comoros | 551
• | IS44 | Seychelles to East Africa | 552
• | IS45 | East Africa to Seychelles | 553
• | IS46 | Comoros and Mayotte to Seychelles | 553
• | IS47 | Madagascar to Seychelles | 554
• | IS48 | Madagascar to East Africa | 555
• | IS49 | Madagascar to Southern Africa | 556

In spite of its many attractions, the western part of the South Indian Ocean has only started attracting cruising boats in significant numbers in recent years. The Seychelles were the first to gain attention and have established themselves as an important charter base, although the number of sailors who reach these attractive islands on their own boats is still relatively small. Nearby Madagascar, and especially the cruising grounds off its NW coast and adjacent islands, is rapidly turning into a popular destination. Mozambique is another area whose vast potential is being gradually recognised.

Weather conditions throughout the area bear a certain similarity. In the Seychelles the SE trade winds prevail from May to the middle of October, although in some years they are not established until June or even July. The SE season is the fine weather period, with steady SE winds blowing between July and September. In November the changeover to the NW monsoon is marked by heavy squalls and rain. The NW monsoon is the wet season and lasts until April. Cyclones are practically unknown and if they do pass through the vicinity they are usually around 200 miles to the south of Mahé. Weather conditions in and around Madagascar are similar, but with a marked difference between the east and west coasts. The SE monsoon affects the east coast through the months of May to October, whereas on the west coast the SE winds are less regular, being affected by the island’s landmass. The NW monsoon commences at the end of October or early in November and lasts until April. This is the hot and rainy season, which is characterised by irregular winds and squally weather. The changeover between the seasons is marked by calms, variable winds and squally weather. The cyclone season lasts from November to May. Their usual breeding ground is an area south of the ITCZ and west of Cocos Keeling. Cyclones normally move west and usually curve south on hitting the landmass of Madagascar. Occasionally cyclones reach the Comoros Islands, and then move south through the Mozambique Channel. The months with the highest risk are from February to April.

IS40 Routes in the Western Indian Ocean

Because of the French influence in the area, geographical names, especially in the Seychelles and Madagascar, have kept the French spelling.

• IS41 Seychelles to Chagos

BEST TIME: | June, October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4070, US 70 |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Victoria X | Mahé E | Fregate S |  |  |
4°37.5’S, 55°27.5’E | 4°39.5’S, 55°33.0’E | 4°37.0’S, 55°55.0’E |  |  |
|  | Fregate E | Peros Banhos N | Peros Banhos X | 990
|  | 4°35.0’S, 55°59.0’E | 5°11.0’S, 71°47.0’E | 5°20.8’S, 71 °51.7’E |
|  | Salomon N | Pass N | Salomon X | 1008
|  | 5°16.0’S, 72°13.0’E | 5°17.5’S, 72°14.2’E | 5°19.3’S, 72°14.5’E |

This is a route that can be sailed at any time of the year, but with two important provisos. During the SE monsoon, the E and SE winds blow at an average force 5, making this a tough trip. Unless the boat goes really well to windward, the recommended tactic is to make a detour to the north, where there is a reasonable percentage of N winds north of latitude 5°N. How far north to go, and also how far east before altering course for Chagos, depends entirely on the conditions encountered and the windward-going capabilities of the boat in question. It would be wise to apply a similar tactic during the NW monsoon, which coincides with the cyclone season. While sailing a direct course to Chagos during that season should be no problem, taking a more northerly route would be a safe precaution in case a cyclone threatens to pass close to the chosen route. In such a case, the course could easily be changed to move north and out of danger, and if threatened by a fully fledged cyclone, make a detour to well-sheltered Gan in the Maldives.

In Chagos, landfall will be made NW of the archipelago, with the choice of anchoring at one of the two closest atolls: Peros Banhos or Salomon. The atolls are part of BIOT (British Indian Ocean Territory) and the authorities are now imposing much stricter regulations than in the past. Stopping in any of the islands without having obtained a permit in advance is strictly forbidden. Those stopping without permission, even in an emergency, face a very high fine and confiscation of their yacht. Contact: BIOTAdmin@fco.gov.uk.

• IS42 Southbound from Seychelles

BEST TIME: | June, October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4070, US 70 |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IS42A |  |  |  |  |
Victoria X 4°37.5’S, 55°27.5’E | Mahé E 4°39.5’S, 55°33.0’E | Mahé S 4°48.5’S, 55°34.0’E Plate E 5°50.0’S, 55°31.0’E |  |  |
|  | Farquhar NE 9°40.0’S, 52°15.0’E | Antsiranana E 12°13.0’S, 49°26.0’E | Antsiranana X 12°16.3’S, 49°17.1’E | 619
Route IS42B |  |  |  |  |
Victoria X | Mahé E | Mahé S Plate E Coetivity W 7°05.0’S, 55°49.0’E Agalega NW |  |  |
|  | 10°16.0’S, 56°26.0’E [Tromelin] 15°53.0’S, 54°35.0’E |  |  |
|  | Réunion NW | Galets W | Port des Galets | 996
|  | 20°50.0’S, 55°18.0’E Saint Pierre SW 21°23.0’S, 55°27.0’E | 20°56.0’S, 55°16.5’E Saint Pierre N 21°21.0’S, 55°28.6’E | 20°56.2’S, 55°17.2’E Saint Pierre 21°20.7’S, 55°28.6’E | 1032
Route IS42C |  |  |  |  |
Victoria X | Mahé E | Mahé S Plate E Coetivity W Agalega E 10°19.0’S, 58°14.0’E Mauritius NW 19°49.0’S, 57°20.0’E |  |  |
|  | Port Louis NW 20°07.0’S, 57°27.0’E | Port Louis SE 20°08.5’S, 57°28.5’E | Port Louis 20°09.3’S, 57°29.4’E | 992

Regardless of whether bound for NE Madagascar, Réunion or Mauritius, southbound passages from Mahé are usually hard on the wind. During the SE monsoon, all these passages are bedevilled by the effect of the large landmass of Madagascar on winds, seas, currents and weather conditions generally in that area. As the prevailing SE winds tend to become more southerly as one approaches Madagascar, combined with a very strong west-setting current north of the island, boats on passage to any destination should attempt to make some easting before reaching the critical area. At the height of the SE monsoon, the prevailing winds may attain an acceleration of 15 to 20 knots in this area, producing rough and confused seas north of Cap d’Ambré, which have been described as a witches’ cauldron. Occasionally it may be necessary to pass the cape as much as 15 or 20 miles to the north to avoid the rough seas. If the passage is made during the SE monsoon, but outside of the blustery months of July and August, better conditions can be expected in May and early June, or in October, two periods when the winds can be more easterly. A better wind direction can be expected during the NW monsoon, but as the latter coincides with the cyclone season, southbound passages during the critical period are not recommended.

On leaving Port Victoria in good light it is possible to use the Cerf Passage to reach the open sea. Otherwise it is safer to use the main shipping channel. From Mahé, the direct southbound course passes west of Coetivity Island, although in view of the comments made above, it is advisable to pass well to the east of that island and the shoals surrounding it. The same tactic should be applied when passing the Agalega Islands, from where it should be possible to sail a direct course to either Mauritius or Réunion.

As route IS42A is the most directly affected by the conditions described above, the recommended route passes well to the east of the Farquhar Islands so as to be able to counteract the effects of both the contrary winds and west-setting current and approach Antsiranana from NE. The port captain should be contacted before entering the landlocked bay of Antsiranana. Cruising boats are requested to proceed to the commercial port to complete entry formalities. Visas are no longer issued on arrival and must be obtained in advance online: www.evisamada.gov.mg/en/. Afterwards, good shelter will be found at an anchorage in the SW part of the wide bay, where a marina is under construction.

For boats bound for Réunion, following the above advice may seem rather exaggerated, and although the waypoints listed are those of the direct route IS42B that passes west of Agalega, sailing the same route as the one recommended for Mauritius should not be rejected out of hand, especially if strong SE or S winds are expected for the final stage of the passage. Landfall will be made NW of the island, with a choice of clearing in at Port des Galets, on the west coast, or St Pierre on the south. Port des Galets, usually referred to as Le Port, is an artificial harbour with a marina in its southern part. The port captain should be contacted on arrival to be assigned a berth. The marina has a good range of facilities and is also close to the capital St Dénis and airport, but it is located in an industrial area with little attraction for a visitor. More appealing is St Pierre, on the south coast. To reach the latter, landfall should be made SW of the island and the coast followed to the entrance into the port of St Pierre and its marina. As the entrance is at the mouth of a river, it is prone to silting, but the channel between the sandbanks is well marked. St Pierre is an attractive town, and a good base from which to explore the island’s spectacular interior.

Boats bound for Mauritius should set a course that passes east of the Agalega Islands. Occasionally, boats on this passage stop at the Cargados Carajos Shoals, an area of reefs and low islands, which is close enough to the direct route to warrant the detour. The Cargados Carajos Shoals come under the jurisdiction of Mauritius and are visited by fishing boats from that island. Cruising boats are not supposed to stop there unless sheltering from bad weather.

In Mauritius, the only port of entry is the capital Port Louis and boats must proceed directly there. Port control should be contacted on channel 16 before entering the harbour. Yachts are directed to tie up to the immigration dock where formalities are completed. After formalities have been dealt with, boats may proceed to nearby Caudan Marina. As the port is not open after darkness, if arriving at night permission should be requested to anchor outside.

• IS43 Seychelles to West Madagascar and Comoros

BEST TIME: | June, October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4070, US 70 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | East Africa Pilot. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IS43A |  |  |  |  |
Victoria X 4°37.5’S, 55°27.5’E | Mahé E 4°39.5’S, 55°33.0’E | Mahé S 4°48.5’S, 55°34.0’E Plate NW 5°27.5’S, 55°57.0’E Alphonse N 6°53.5’S, 52°44.0’E Providence W 9°16.5’S, 50°29.0’E Madagascar NW 12°10.0’S, 48°34.0’E Nosy Be NE 13°11.5’S, 48°23.5’E |  |  |
|  | Nosy Be SE 13°25.0’S, 48°23.7’E | Nosy Be S 13°25.0’S, 48°17.0’E | Hell-Ville 13°24.3’S, 48°17.0’E | 760
Route IS43B |  |  |  |  |
Victoria X | Mahé E | Mahé S Plate NW Alphonse N Providence W |  |  |
|  | Glorieuses N | Anjouan N | Mutsamudu | 877
|  | 11°19.0’S, 47°16.0’E Geyser Reef 12°09.0’S, 46°15.0’E | 12°00.0’S, 44°26.0’E Mayotte SE 12°54.5’S, 45°18.0’E | 12 °09.5’S, 44 °23.5’E Dzaudzi X 12°46.6’S, 45°15.5’E | 852

Boats bound for the NW coast of Madagascar have a far easier task than those bound for ports on the east coast, as an initial route can be sailed immediately on leaving Mahé. The recommended route avoids the critical area north of the island as described in route IS42. The route passes west of several islands and reefs to make landfall off the light on Nosy Anambo that marks the NW extremity of Madagascar. From that point, a new course can be set for the island of Nosy Be. The island is at the centre of a scenic area that in recent years has become a major tourist attraction and popular cruising destination. The port of entry is Hell-Ville (Andoany), located on the south coast of Nosy Be. The port captain should be contacted on channel 16 and boats are normally advised to anchor off the commercial dock. Formalities are completed at various offices located nearby. Visas are no longer issued on arrival and must be obtained in advance online: www.evisamada.gov.mg/en/.

The same initial route is sailed by boats bound for the Comoros Islands, with destinations in both the Comoros proper and Mayotte. Although geographically the islands belong to the same group, the people of Mayotte decided in a referendum to acquire the status of an overseas department of France, which came into effect in 2011. Having passed the islands of Glorieuses, the route turns west and continues to the nearest port of entry in the Comoros, Mutsamudu on Anjouan Island. This is the main commercial port in the Comoros, and has a protected anchorage during the SE monsoon but is badly exposed at other times. The port captain should be contacted on arrival and usually a local agent will visit the boat and offer his services to deal with the authorities.

Boats bound for Mayotte should alter course from Glorieuses to pass west of Geyser Reef and continue to the SE coast of Mayotte. The Dzaudzi port captain should be contacted on channel 16 and asked which pass to use to enter the lagoon, the Bandrele Pass on the east side or the M’Zamboro Pass on the north side. Both are well marked but the Bandrele Pass is difficult to use in strong E winds and swell. The port of Dzaudzi is located on a small island of that name east of the main island. Visiting yachts are advised to anchor in the Bay de Pamanzi, south of the port. This is not an all-weather anchorage and may need to be left if there is a change in wind direction.

• IS44 Seychelles to East Africa

BEST TIME: | June to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4070, US 70 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | East Africa Pilot. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Victoria X 4°37.5’S, 55°27.5’E | Victoria E 4°35.0’S, 55°31.0’E | Anne W 4°36.5’S, 55°29.2’E North Point 4°32.5’S, 55°27.0’E |  |  |
|  | Amirantes N |  |  |
|  | 4°43.5’S, 53°22.5’E |  |  |
|  | Mombasa E 4°06.7’S, 39°44.8’E | Mombasa W 4°04.6’S, 39°41.3’E | Mombasa 4°03.8’S, 39°40.9’E | 957
|  | Dar es Salaam N 6°45.8’S, 39°19.6’E | Dar es Salaam S 6°48.5’S, 39°18.8’E | Dar es Salaam 6°49.3’S, 39°18.0’E | 987

Favourable winds can be expected on this route throughout the SE trade wind season, from May until October. During this period the current is also favourable, setting westward, but it turns northward before reaching the African coast.

Passages bound for either Kenya or Tanzania should leave Victoria by its northern pass. Having passed Mahé’s North Point, the initial route stays south of Silhouette Island and then turns due west to pass north of the Amirante Islands. At that point the routes split according to their East African destination. Boats bound for Mombasa should set a course to make landfall in the approaches to that busy port. Port control should be contacted on channel 12 or 16. Clearance formalities can be completed at two locations, either at the Old Port, on the north side of Mombasa Island, or at the main commercial port of Kilindini Harbour. Mombasa Yacht Club has some moorings for visitors, who are welcome to use the club facilities.

Boats bound for Dar es Salaam should set a course for the entrance channel that leads into the deep inlet where the port is located. Arriving yachts are normally advised to anchor in the inner harbour and wait to be visited by the various officials.

• IS45 East Africa to Seychelles

BEST TIME: | April |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4070, US 70 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | East Africa Pilot. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Mombasa 4°03.8’S, 39°40.9’E Dar es Salaam 6°49.3’S, 39°18.0’E | Mombasa E 4°04.6’S, 39°41.3’E Dar es Salaam S 6°48.5’S, 39°18.8’E | Mombasa W 4°06.7’S, 39°44.8’E Dares Salaam N 6°45.8’S, 39°19.6’E |  |  |
|  | Denis W |  |  |
|  | 3°41.0’S, 55°31.0’E Victoria NE 4°34.3’S, 55°30.3’E |  |  |
|  | Anne W | Victoria N | Victoria X | 1007/1046
|  | 4°36.5’S, 55°29.2’E | 4°37.0’S, 55°28.1’E | 4°37.5’S, 55°27.5’E |

Eastbound passages to the Seychelles from either Tanzanian or Kenyan ports are difficult throughout the year, with contrary winds produced by both monsoons. The only time when the winds can be relatively favourable is in the transitional month of April when the SE monsoon is not yet established and the winds are still light, while the strong E winds produced by the NE monsoon have also ceased. Knowing the location of the ITCZ at such times can be very helpful as the east-setting Equatorial Countercurrent can then be put to good use to make the necessary easting. In the Indian Ocean, this current is only noticeable during the NE monsoon of the North Indian Ocean, and it flows south of the equator.

Mahé and the capital Victoria are best approached from the north, and reached through the North Channel. The harbour master should be contacted on channel 16. Arriving boats are normally directed to the anchorage in the inner harbour where visiting sailors may use the facilities of the nearby Seychelles Yacht Club.

• IS46 Comoros and Mayotte to Seychelles

BEST TIME: | June to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4070, US 70 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Indian Ocean Cruising Guide. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Mutsamudu 12°09.5’S, 44 °23.5’E | Anjouan N 12°00.0’S, 44°26.0’E |  |  |  |
Dzaudzi X 12°46.6’S, 45°15.5’E | Mayotte SE 12°54.5’S, 45°18.0’E | Geyser Reef 12°09.0’S, 46°15.0’E |  |  |
|  | Glorieuses N |  |  |
|  | 11°19.0’S, 47°16.0’E Providence W 9°16.5’S, 50°29.0’E Alphonse N 6°53.5’S, 52°44.0’E Plate NW 5°27.5’S, 54°57.0’E |  |  |
|  | Mahé S | Mahé E | Victoria X | 877/852
|  | 4°48.5’S, 55°34.0’E | 4°39.5’S, 55°33.0’E | 4°37.5’S, 55°27.5’E |

Because the area around the Comoros is subject to tropical storms, this passage should not be undertaken during the cyclone season. From May to October, winds along this route are mostly SSE or SE and there is also a favourable current. There are several island groups north of Madagascar where it is possible to stop in an emergency, such as Providence or the Glorieuses Islands, all of them having protected anchorages.

Passages starting from Mutsamudu will need to clear the northern point of Anjouan before setting a course to pass west of the Glorieuses Islands. Those starting from Mayotte will find it easier to reach the open sea via the M’Zamboro Pass and, having joined the route from Anjouan, a course can be set for Mahé that keeps west of Providence and Alphonse Islands. Landfall is made south of Mahé in the approaches to Victoria. For boats coming from the south, the Cerf Pass is the most convenient, although in bad visibility it may be necessary to continue past St Anne Island and enter the port through the normal shipping channel.

The harbour master should be contacted on channel 16. Arriving boats are normally directed to the anchorage in the inner harbour where visiting sailors may use the facilities of the nearby Seychelles Yacht Club.

• IS47 Madagascar to Seychelles

BEST TIME: | June to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4070, US 70 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Indian Ocean Cruising Guide. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IS47A |  |  |  |  |
Hell-Ville | Nosy Be S | Nosy Be SE |  |  |
13°24.3’S, 48°17.0’E | 13°25.0’S, 48°17.0’E | 13°25.0’S, 48°23.7’E Nosy Be NE 13°11.5’S, 48°23.5’E Madagascar NW 12°10.0’S, 48°34.0’E Providence W 9°16.5’S, 50°29.0’E Alphonse N 6°53.5’S, 52°44.0’E Plate NW 5°27.5’S, 54°57.0’E |  |  |
|  | Mahé S | Mahé E | Victoria X | 760
|  | 4°48.5’S, 55°34.0’E | 4°39.5’S, 55°33.0’E | 4°37.5’S, 55°27.5’E |
Route IS47B |  |  |  |  |
Antsiranana X | Antsiranana E | Farquhar E |  |  |
12°16.0’S, 49°16.5’E | 12°13.0’S, 49°26.0’E | 10°18.0’S, 51°25.0’E Plate E 5°50.0’S, 55°31.0’E |  |  |
|  | Mahé S | Mahé E | Victoria X | 619

Whether starting from the east or west coast of Madagascar, favourable sailing conditions can be expected along either route. The exception is at the very start until the disturbed area around the north of Madagascar has been left behind. This is an area notorious for rough and confused seas, and a strong west-setting current. The routes outlined above pass all dangers at a safe distance to make landfall on the south coast of Mahé. See IS46 for arrival information.

• IS48 Madagascar to East Africa

BEST TIME: | June to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4070, US 70 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | East Africa Pilot. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IS48A |  |  |  |  |
Hell-Ville 13°24.3’S, 48°17.0’E | Nosy Be S 13°25.0’S, 48°17.0’E | Nosy Be W 13°23.0’S, 47°42.0’E |  |  |
|  | Mayotte SE |  | Dzaudzi X | 186
|  | 12°54.5’S, 45°18.0’E |  | 12°46.6’S, 45°15.5’E |
|  | Mayotte NE | Anjouan N | Mutsamudu | 275
|  | 12°38.0’S, 45°25.0’E | 12°0.0’S, 44°26.0’E | 12 °9.5’S, 44°23.5’E |
|  | Dar es Salaam N | Dar es Salaam S | Dar es Salaam | 703
|  | 6°45.8’S, 39°19.6’E | 6°48.5’S, 39°18.8’E | 6°49.3’S, 39°18.0’E |
|  | Mombasa E | Mombasa W | Mombasa | 865
|  | 4°06.7’S, 39°44.8’E | 4°04.6’S, 39°41.3’E | 4°03.8’S, 39°40.9’E |
Route IS48B |  |  |  |  |
Hell-Ville | Nosy Be S | Nosy Be W | Nacala E | Nacala X | 454
|  |  | 14°18.5’S, 40°54.0’E | 14°32.0’S, 40°39.5’E |

Favourable winds prevail along this route during the SE monsoon. The most pleasant weather is in July and August, when the temperature is cooler and humidity low. As both Madagascar and the Comoros Islands are affected by tropical storms, passages during the cyclone season should be avoided, or if they are sailed, the weather should be monitored carefully so as to move as quickly as possible north and out of the critical area.

From Hell-Ville, on the south coast of Nosy Be, the initial route heads due west to clear all dangers before it is altered to pass north of the Comoros and an unimpeded run to the desired destination. For those who wish to break the voyage into shorter legs, the first opportunity of an interesting stop is the island of Mayotte, which lies very close to the direct route. The Bandrele Pass, on the east side of Mayotte, leads into the lagoon, and the port captain should be contacted on channel 16 for permission to proceed to Dzaudzi. This is the official port of entry and is located north of the entrance. For further details on Mayotte see IS43.

The next possible stop along this route is in the neighbouring Comoros, with the most convenient port of entry at the commercial port of Mutsamudu on Anjouan Island. Refer to route IS43 for arrival information.

From Anjouan, the offshore route passes north of Moroni Island, from where boats bound for Dar es Salaam should set a course to make landfall north of Outer Mukatumbe Island in the approaches to Dar es Salaam. A buoyed channel leads from that point into the deep inlet where the port is located. Arriving yachts are normally advised to anchor in the inner harbour and wait to be visited by the various officials.

The offshore route to Mombasa passes east of Pemba Island to make landfall in the approaches to that busy port. Port control should be contacted on channel 12 or 16. Clearance formalities can be completed at two locations, either at the Old Port, on the north side of Mombasa Island, or at the main commercial port of Kilindini Harbour. Mombasa Yacht Club has some moorings for visitors, who are welcome to use the club facilities.

Route IS48B may appeal to those who are planning a later voyage to South Africa and, rather than sail the direct route, are interested in exploring Mozambique on their way south. Nacala is Mozambique’s northernmost point of entry and is located in a landlocked bay amid a scenic area as described in more detail in IS49. A direct course can be sailed from either Nosy Be or Mayotte to make landfall NE of the entrance that opens up into the large bay. Formalities are completed at the commercial port on its eastern side, which is fronted by a long quay where it is usually possible to tie up.

• IS49 Madagascar to Southern Africa

BEST TIME: | October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4070, US 70 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | East Africa Pilot, South Africa Nautical Almanac. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IS49A |  |  |  |  |
Sainte Marie 17°00.2’S, 49°50.8’E | Sainte Marie NW 16°59.5’S, 49°50.0’E | Boraha SW 17°07.0’S, 49°44.0’E |  |  |
|  | Madagascar E | Toamasina N | Toamasina | 83
|  | 18°05.0’S, 49°37.0’E | 18°06.0’S, 49°26.0’E | 18°09.2’S, 49°25.5’E |
|  | Madagascar SE |  |  |
|  | 26°17.0’S, 48°20.0’E |  |  |
|  | Richards Bay E | Richards Bay W | Richards Bay | 1444
|  | 28°49.5’S, 32°10.0’E | 28°48.7’S, 32°6.0’E | 28°48.0’S, 32°04.5’E |
|  | Durban NE | Durban S | Durban | 1507
|  | 29°50.5’S, 31°04.5’E | 29°51.8’S, 31°03.6’E | 29°51.8’S, 31°01.5’E |
Route IS49B |  |  |  |  |
Hell-Ville | Nosy Be S | Nosy Be W |  |  |
13°24.3’S, 48°17.0’E | 13°25.0’S, 48°17.0’E | 13°23.0’S, 47°42.0’E |  |  |
|  | Juan de Nova W | Toliara NW | Toliara | 797
|  | 16°58.0’S, 42°28.5’E | 23°19.5’S, 43°34.5’E | 23°22.2’S, 43°38.8’E |
|  | Maputo NE | Matola Channel | Maputo X | 1183
|  | 25°49.0’S, 32°56.0’E Maputo E 25°54.0’S, 33°13.0’E | 25°59.5’S, 32°35.2’E | 25°57.3’S, 32 °31.5’E |
|  | Cape St Lucia |  |  |
|  | 28°33.0’S, 32°31.0’E |  |  |
|  | Richards Bay E | Richards Bay W | Richards Bay | 1322
|  | Durban NE | Durban S | Durban | 1403
Route IS49C |  |  |  |  |
Nacala X 14°32.0’S, 40°39.5’E | Nacala E 14°18.5’S, 40°54.0’E | Mozambique NE 15°02.0’S, 41°00.0’E Mozambique E 24°07.0’S, 35°52.0’E |  |  |
|  | Maputo NE | Matola Channel | Maputo X | 895
|  | Maputo E |  |  |
|  | Cape St Lucia |  |  |
|  | Richards Bay E | Richards Bay W | Richards Bay | 1079
|  | Durban NE | Durban S | Durban | 1152

Weather conditions to be taken into account for passages starting from the east coast of Madagascar differ considerably from those leaving from the opposite side of this large island. The one thing they have in common is the time of departure. The optimum time is the first half of October when the frequency of spring gales around latitude 30ºS is getting lower and the chances of an early cyclone are also low. For passages starting from the east coast, the recommended procedure is to keep well off the southern tip of Madagascar as the weather in that area is often unsettled. Another reason why it is recommended to stay well to the south of Madagascar is that the South Equatorial Current splits here, half of it merging with the south-flowing Agulhas Current, the other half flowing north along the east coast of Madagascar, resulting in a contrary current of up to 1 knot. The winds in the early stages of the passage can be expected to be favourable. Once past Madagascar, there is a high percentage of favourable NE winds in October.

An attractive as well as convenient port of departure is Sainte Marie on the island of that name, also known as Nosy Boraha. During the 16th and 17th centuries this was a popular hideaway for an international band of pirates who marauded the nearby routes sailed by ships bound for Europe loaded with spices and valuable merchandise. They have now been replaced by large pods of humpback whales, which migrate here from Antarctica for the breeding season between July and September.

The southbound route runs parallel to the coast passing close to Toamasina, an attractive colonial town with a well-sheltered port protected by a barrier reef. The ruler-straight coast is passed along its entire length to a recommended waypoint that has been set far enough from the notorious southern point of Madagascar to alter course for your desired destination. The choice is limited to only two: Richards Bay, the nearest port of entry into South Africa, and, further south, the larger port of Durban.

Passages through the Mozambique Channel need to take into account the south-setting Mozambique Current, which can create difficult conditions in strong S or SW winds. This passage should not be sailed before the middle of September, when the chances of encountering contrary winds in the Mozambique Channel are greater than later in the year. For passages starting in the north, whether from Nosy Be or Mayotte, there are two routes to choose from. The direct route follows the axis of the Mozambique Channel, passing the solitary islands of Juan de Nova and Europa, both belonging to France.

The other option is to cross the channel to the Mozambique side as far north as possible and follow the coast, taking full advantage of the Mozambique Current. Generally, there are better winds on the African side than in the wind shadow of Madagascar, where there is also the possibility of a contrary current. Those who start from its northern end may decide to clear into Mozambique at its northernmost port of entry, Nacala. Located in a beautiful landlocked bay, Nacala is a major whale-watching destination with humpback whales congregating here between July and September. The advantage of clearing into Mozambique at an early stage is that it makes it possible to continue along the African coast on an inshore route, with countless places to explore or to seek shelter should a gale blow up, such as Bazaruto and Inhambane.

The last place to stop, whether for shelter or provisions, is the former port of Lourenço Marques, now Maputo and the capital of Mozambique. Landfall is made north of Cape Inhaca. Maputo lies on the north bank of the Espirito Santo River and is reached through one of two channels, the northern one being recommended as it is easier to navigate. Port control should be contacted on channel 16 and visiting boats are normally directed to tie up to one of the commercial docks. There is a marina in Maputo but formalities need to be completed first before proceeding there.

For those who would rather start from one of the ports on the west coast of Madagascar, the southernmost port where departure formalities can be completed is Toliara. The port is protected by a barrier reef and visiting yachts are so rare that they are always assured of a warm reception. From Toliara, a direct route cuts right across the Mozambique Channel to Cape St Lucia just north of Richards Bay. The prominent cape is a good place to make landfall thus allowing for the strong Agulhas Current sweeping past there.

Before arrival, Richards Bay port authority should be contacted on channel 16 or 12 before passing through the harbour entrance in case a large ship is expected to use it. You will be informed to proceed or stand off outside. Yachts must then proceed to the quarantine dock in the small-craft harbour and wait to be cleared. After formalities have been completed, visiting boats have a choice between Tuzi Gazi Marina and Zululand Yacht Club. Richards Bay is a convenient place to clear in to South Africa as it has a reasonable range of facilities, with the added attraction of some wildlife reserves in the vicinity.

Those who decide to proceed directly to Durban should make landfall off the fairway buoy NE of the entrance into Durban Harbour. Durban Harbour Radio should be contacted on channel 9 when one mile outside the harbour entrance to request permission to proceed through the entrance channel. Yachts are usually advised to proceed for clearance to the international jetty, after which they should contact Durban Marina to check for availability of a space or mooring buoy. Durban is a good base to leave the boat to visit the interior or prepare for the onward passage, as described in IS63.

IS50 • Routes from the Mascarene Islands

• | IS51 | Mauritius to Réunion | 559
• | IS52 | Mauritius to Seychelles | 560
• | IS53 | Réunion to Seychelles | 561
• | IS54 | Mauritius to Madagascar | 561
• | IS55 | Réunion to Madagascar | 563
• | IS56 | Mauritius and Réunion to Comoros and East Africa | 564
• | IS57 | Mauritius and Réunion to South Africa | 565

The Mascarene Archipelago consists of the islands belonging to Mauritius and the French department of Réunion. Their name derives from Pedro Mascarenhas, the Portuguese navigator who visited them in 1512. Mauritius and Réunion are the most important cruising hubs in the South Indian Ocean and popular stopover places for sailors on a world voyage. Together with Madagascar and the Seychelles they are part of the worldwide francophone organisation, have retained many French customs and French is often the only foreign language spoken by officials. They are also convenient places to prepare for the long and difficult leg to South Africa. This passage can be a rough trip and there are few other areas in the world that have such a bad reputation among cruising boats as the SW part of the Indian Ocean. The strong south-flowing Agulhas Current can create extremely rough conditions when hit by a SW gale, similar to conditions encountered off Cape Hatteras when the Gulf Stream is hit by a violent northerly wind. Another area where passages from either Mauritius or Réunion may encounter rough seas and strong winds is south of Madagascar.

IS50 Routes from the Mascarene Islands

Northbound routes sail into a much more benign region where the weather is mostly fine. Although the entire area is prone to tropical cyclones, the most dangerous period is December to March. From April to November the SE trades blow almost continuously, usually freshening by mid-morning and getting lighter by mid-afternoon. The wind often dies away at night under the influence of the land, and if it does not go calm at night, it will normally blow hard the following morning. The SE trade winds are at their strongest in June, July and August. In the cyclone season, which is the most inclement time of year, SE winds are still the most common, but they are more moderate in strength and may be interrupted by spells of winds from W or NW, or calms generated by the NW monsoon, which affects the subequatorial areas.

• IS51 Mauritius to Réunion

BEST TIME: | June to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4070, US 70 |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IS51A |  |  |  |  |
Port Louis 20°09.3’S, 57°29.4’E | Port Louis SE 20°08.5’S, 57°28.5’E | Port Louis SW 20°09.0’S, 57°25.5’E Réunion NE 20°48.0’S, 55°40.0’E |  |  |
|  | Réunion NW 20°50.0’S, 55°18.0’E | Galets W 20°56.0’S, 55°16.5’E | Port des Galets 20°56.2’S, 55°17.2’E | 138
Route IS51B |  |  |  |  |
Port Louis | Port Louis SE | Port Louis SW Réunion SE 21°22.0’S, 55°51.0’E Langevin S 21°24.0’S, 55°39.0’E |  |  |
|  | Saint Pierre S 21°23.0’S, 55°29.0’E | Saint Pierre N 21°21.0’S, 55°28.6’E | Saint Pierre 21°20.7’S, 55°28.6’E | 142

This short passage between the largest two of the Mascarene Islands can be made at any time outside the cyclone season. Most boats stop at the French overseas territory of Réunion on their way to South Africa in October. Many of those who stop in Réunion do so to stock up with French goods and to obtain a South African visa, as there is a South African consulate in the capital St Denis. Although such visas are not compulsory for sailors who do not leave their boats while in South Africa, they are recommended for those who intend to travel inland.

Yachting facilities in Réunion are located on both the west and south coasts. From Port Louis, the northerly route IS51A makes landfall on the north coast of Réunion, passing close to the capital St Denis, and turns south at Pointe des Galets. Port des Galets, usually referred to as Le Port, is an artificial harbour with a marina in its southern part. The port captain should be contacted on arrival to assign a berth. The marina has a good range of facilities and is also close to the capital and airport, but it is located in an industrial area with little attraction for a visitor. More appealing is St Pierre, on the south coast. To reach the latter, landfall should be made SE of the island and the coast followed to the entrance into the port of St Pierre and its marina. As the entrance is at the mouth of a river, it is prone to silting, but the channel between the sandbanks is well marked. St Pierre is an attractive town, and a good base from which to explore the island’s spectacular interior.

• IS52 Mauritius to Seychelles

TIME: | June to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4070, US 70 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Indian Ocean Cruising Guide. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Port Louis 20°09.3’S, 57°29.4’E | Port Louis SE 20°08.5’S, 57°28.5’E | Port Louis NW 20°07.0’S, 57°27.0’E Mauritius NW 19°49.0’S, 57°20.0’E [Tromelin] 15°53.0’S, 54°35.0’E Agalega NW 10°16.0’S, 56°26.0’E Coetivity W 7°05.0’S, 55°49.0’E |  |  |
|  | Mahé SE | Mahé E | Victoria X | 950
|  | 4°48.5’S, 55°41.0’E | 4°39.5’S, 55°33.0’E | 4°37.5’S, 55°27.5’E |

The SE trade winds provide fair winds on this route from June to October, although the weather tends to be occasionally squally. Cyclones affect the area around Mauritius from the middle of November until the end of April or even the beginning of May. As the route passes relatively close to the Cargados Carajos Reefs, some boats take the opportunity to stop at one of these small islands. They belong to Mauritius and permission to stop there should be obtained from the Fisheries Department of Mauritius before leaving Port Louis. Even closer to the direct course is Tromelin Island, a small French possession uninhabited except for a small meteorological station.

The direct course to Mahé, the main island of the Seychelles, passes clear of both Cargados Carajos and Saya de Malha Bank by setting a course to the west of the Agalega Islands. The route continues towards Mahé, passing close to the west of Coetivity Island, which should be approached with care as it has been reported to lie some 3 miles further west than its charted position. Landfall is made off Mahé’s South Point. From there, the course runs due north parallel to the coast to the Cerf Passage. The pass leads to Port Victoria, but as it is intricate it is advisable to use it only in daylight, otherwise it may be necessary to carry on past St Anne Island and enter the island’s main port through the beaconed shipping channel. The harbour master should be contacted on channel 16. Arriving boats are normally directed to the anchorage in the inner harbour, where visiting sailors may use the facilities of the nearby Seychelles Yacht Club.

• IS53 Réunion to Seychelles

BEST TIME: | June to September |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4070, US 70 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Indian Ocean Cruising Guide. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Saint Pierre 21°20.7’S, 55°28.6’E | Saint Pierre N 21°21.0’S, 55°28.6’E | Saint Pierre SW 21°23.0’S, 55°27.0’E Réunion SW 21°18.5’S, 55°16.0’E |  |  |
|  | Tromelin |  |  |
|  | 15°53.0’S, 54°35.0’E |  |  |
Port des Galets 20°56.2’S, 55°17.2’E | Galets W 20°56.0’S, 55°16.5’E | Agalega NW 10°16.0’S, 56°26.0’E Coetivity W 7°05.0’S, 55°49.0’E |  |  |
|  | Mahé SE | Mahé E | Victoria X | 1032/996
|  | 4°48.5’S, 55°41.0’E | 4°39.5’S, 55°33.0’E | 4°37.5’S, 55°27.5’E |

Whether departing from St Pierre, on the south coast of Réunion, or Port des Galets, on the west coast of the island, once the open sea is reached a course can be set that passes close to the east of Tromelin Island. This small French possession is uninhabited except for a meteorological station, which is occasionally manned. From there, the course continues due north past the Agalega Islands. The same directions apply from there on as for the previous route IS52.

• IS54 Mauritius to Madagascar

BEST TIME: | June to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4070, US 70 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | East Africa Pilot. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IS54A |  |  |  |  |
Port Louis 20°09.3’S, 57°29.4’E | Port Louis SE 20°08.5’S, 57°28.5’E | Port Louis NW 20°07.0’S, 57°27.0’E |  |  |
|  | Madagascar E | Toamasina N | Toamasina | 535
|  | 18°05.0’S, 49°37.0’E | 18°06.0’S, 49°26.0’E | 18°09.2’S, 49°25.5’E |
|  | Boraha N | Sainte Marie NW | Sainte Marie | 581
|  | 16°39.5’S, 49°59.5’E | 16°59.5’S, 49°50.0’E | 17°00.2’S, 49°50.8’E |
Route IS54B |  |  |  |  |
Port Louis | Port Louis SE | Port Louis NW |  |  |
Port des Galets 20°56.2’S, 55°17.2’E | Galets W 20°56.0’S, 55°16.5’E | [Antsiranana E 12°13.0’S, 49°26.0’E Ambré NE] 11°53.0’S, 49°23.5’E |  | Antsiranana X 12°16.0’S, 49°16.5’E | 676/632
|  | Madagascar N |  |  |
|  | 11°41.0’S, 49°17.0’E |  |  |
|  | Madagascar NW |  |  |
|  | 12°10.0’S, 48°34.0’E |  |  |
|  | Nosy Be NE |  |  |
|  | 13°11.5’S, 48°23.5’E |  |  |
|  | Nosy Be SE | Nosy Be S | Hell-Ville | 830/788
|  | 13°25.0’S, 48°23.7’E | 13°25.0’S, 48°17.0’E | 13°24.3’S, 48°17.0’E |

In recent years, Madagascar, and especially the islands and area off its NW coast, have become an increasingly popular destination among both cruising sailors and charter companies. Madagascar receives the full force of the SE winds blowing across the Indian Ocean. The strongest winds are between July and September. Madagascar is under the influence of these winds all year, although the southern limit of the SE winds moves up the coast from its southernmost position in August to its northernmost in November. Outside the SE season, variable winds are experienced in the southern half of the island, although most winds continue to be from E or NE, occasionally quite strong. In March, when the ITCZ is further south, the northern tip of the island loses the SE winds to NE and NW winds. Madagascar lies within the cyclone belt, although cyclones are not as frequent as in the Mauritius area, as cyclones that are bred in an area south of the equator and west of Cocos Keeling often curve south before hitting Madagascar with their full force. The South Equatorial Current splits at the centre of the island and runs north and south along the east coast. The current along the west coast is mostly south-setting.

Route IS54A is bound for destinations on the east coast, and the order in which the two are visited will be dictated by future plans. Sainte Marie is located on the west coast of the island of that name, also known as Nosy Boraha. During the 16th and 17th centuries this was a popular base and hideaway for a multinational band of pirates who menaced the nearby routes sailed by ships bound for Europe loaded with spices and valuable merchandise. Sainte Marie now attracts mostly whale watchers for the large pods of humpback whales that migrate here from Antarctica for the breeding season. They congregate in the channel that separates the island from the mainland and the best time to watch them is between July and September. The main town is Ambodifotatra and formalities are completed in the commercial port. Not far south along the coast is the port of Toamasina, an attractive colonial town with a well-sheltered port protected by a barrier reef.

Route IS54B is bound for the west coast of Madagascar with a possible stop at Antsiranana close to the northern tip of the island. The area immediately to the north of Madagascar is renowned for the rough conditions caused by the strong winds and equally strong current. At the height of the SE monsoon the prevailing winds may be augmented by an acceleration of 15 to 20 knots, producing rough and confused seas north of Cap d’Ambré. To avoid the worst of this, it may be necessary to pass the cape as much as 15 or 20 miles to the north. This is an important factor that needs to be considered by those who intend to continue west from Antsiranana. On arrival, the port captain should be contacted before entering the landlocked bay of Antsiranana, formerly known as Diego Suarez. Cruising boats are requested to proceed to the commercial port to complete entry formalities. Afterwards, good shelter will be found at an anchorage in the SW part of the wide bay, where a marina is under construction.

Direct passages to the NW coast of Madagascar should set a course that passes well to the north of Cape d’Ambré so as to avoid the critical area. From there, a new course should be set to make landfall off the light on Nosy Anambo that marks the NW extremity of Madagascar. The route continues from there to Nosy Be. The island is at the centre of a scenic area that in recent years has become a major tourist attraction and popular cruising destination. The port of entry is Hell-Ville (Andoany), located on the south coast of Nosy Be. The port captain should be contacted on channel 16 and boats are normally advised to anchor off the commercial dock. Formalities are completed at various offices located nearby. As visas are no longer issued on arrival, they should be obtained online: www.evisamada.gov.mg/en/.

• IS55 Réunion to Madagascar

BEST TIME: | June to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4070, US 70 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | East Africa Pilot. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IS55A |  |  |  |  |
Saint Pierre 21°20.7’S, 55°28.6’E | Saint Pierre N 21°21.0’S, 55°28.6’E | Saint Pierre SW 21°23.0’S, 55°27.0’E Réunion SW 21°18.5’S, 55°16.0’E |  |  |
Port des Galets | Galets W | Boraha N | Sainte Marie NW | Sainte Marie | 446/418
20°56.2’S, 55°17.2’E | 20°56.0’S, 55°16.5’E | 16°39.5’S, 49°59.5’E | 16°59.5’S, 49°50.0’E | 17°00.2’S, 49°50.8’E |
|  | Madagascar E | Toamasina N | Toamasina | 401/377
|  | 18°05.0’S, 49°37.0’E | 18°06.0’S, 49°26.0’E | 18°09.2’S, 49°25.5’E |
Route IS55B |  |  |  |  |
Saint Pierre | Saint Pierre N | Saint Pierre SW Réunion SW |  |  |
Port des Galets | Galets W | [Antsiranana E 12°13.0’S, 49°26.0’E Ambré NE] |  | Antsiranana X 12°16.0’S, 49°16.5’E | 664/632
|  | 11°53.0’S, 49°23.5’E |  |  |
|  | Madagascar N |  |  |
|  | 11°41.0’S, 49°17.0’E Madagascar NW 12°10.0’S, 48°34.0’E Nosy Be NE 13°11.5’S, 48°23.5’E |  |  |
|  | Nosy Be SE | Nosy Be S | Hell-Ville | 820/788
|  | 13°25.0’S, 48°23.7’E | 13°25.0’S, 48°17.0’E | 13°24.3’S, 48°17.0’E |

Whether starting from St Pierre or Port des Galets, directions for destinations on the east coast of Madagascar are similar to those for passages from Mauritius (see IS54). Those who are bound for destinations on the west coast and decide not to make the detour to Antsiranana should set a direct course for the waypoint set well to the north of Madagascar and the area to be avoided described above.

• IS56 Mauritius and Réunion to Comoros and East Africa

BEST TIME: | June to October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4070, US 70 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | East Africa Pilot. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Port Louis 20°09.3’S, 57°29.4’E | Port Louis SE 20°08.5’S, 57°28.5’E | Port Louis NW 20°07.0’S, 57°27.0’E Mauritius NW 19°49.0’S, 57°20.0’E |  |  |
Saint Pierre 21°20.7’S, 55°28.6’E | Saint Pierre N 21°21.0’S, 55°28.6’E | Saint Pierre SW 21°23.0’S, 55°27.0’E Réunion SW 21°18.5’S, 55°16.0’E |  |  |
Port des Galets 20°56.2’S, 55°17.2’E |  | Galets W 20°56.0’S, 55°16.5’E |  |  |
|  | [Antsiranana E 12°13.0’S, 49°26.0’E Ambré NE] 11°53.0’S, 49°23.5’E [Tromelin] 15°53.0’S, 54°35.0’E |  | Antsiranana X 12°16.0’S, 49°16.5’E | 676/664/632
|  | Madagascar N |  |  |
|  | 11°41.0’S, 49°17.0’E |  |  |
|  | Madagascar NW | Mayotte SE | Dzaudzi X | 952/942/910
|  | 12°10.0’S, 48°34.0’E | 12°54.5’S, 45°18.0’E | 12°46.6’S, 45°15.5’E |
|  | Geyser Reef | Anjouan N | Mutsamudu | 1000/990/958
|  | 12°09.0’S, 46°15.0’E | 12°00.0’S, 44°26.0’E | 12°09.5’S, 44°23.5’E |
|  | Mombasa E | Mombasa W | Mombasa | 1464/1454/1422
|  | 4°06.7’S, 39°44.8’E | 4°04.6’S, 39°41.3’E | 4°03.8’S, 39°40.9’E |
|  | Dar es Salaam N | Dar es Salaam S | Dar es Salaam | 1387/1377/1345
|  | 6°45.8’S, 39°19.6’E | 6°48.5’S, 39°18.8’E | 6°49.3’S, 39°18.0’E |

During the SE trade wind season, from May to October, this is a downwind run to the northern tip of Madagascar. As both Madagascar and the Comoros Islands are affected by tropical storms, passages during the cyclone season should be avoided, or if they are sailed, the weather should be monitored carefully so as to move as quickly as possible north and out of the critical area.

Whether starting from Mauritius or Réunion, the direct course passes north of Madagascar. Those who intend to make an intermediate stop at Antsiranana should consider such a decision carefully, as outlined in IS54, as such a decision will affect the tactics for the subsequent leg past the northern tip of Madagascar. Those who are on a direct passage to the Comoros or East Africa should sail an initial course that passes well to the north of Madagascar. From that point, a new course can be set for the desired destination. Those who prefer to make a detour to Nosy Be should follow the directions outlined in IS54. Otherwise, the route continues west for the Comoros Islands. Although geographically Mayotte belongs to the same group, the people of Mayotte decided in a referendum to separate from the rest of the Comoros and acquire the status of an overseas department of France. Boats bound for Mayotte should set a course to make landfall off the east coast of the island. The Dzaudzi port captain should be contacted on channel 16 and instructions requested as to which pass to use to enter the lagoon, the Bandrele Pass on the east side or the M’Zamboro Pass on the north side. Both are well marked but the Bandrele Pass is difficult to use in strong E winds and swell. The port of Dzaudzi is located on a small island of that name east of the main island. Visiting yachts are advised to anchor in Pamanzi Bay, south of the port. This is not an all-weather anchorage and may need to be left if there is a change in wind direction.

Boats bound directly for the Comoros Islands should set a course that passes north of Geyser Reef and makes landfall on the north coast of Anjouan Island. Mutsamudu, the nearest port of entry in the Comoros, is on the west coast of Anjouan. This is the main commercial port in the Comoros, and has a protected anchorage during the SE monsoon but is badly exposed at other times. The port captain should be contacted on arrival and usually a local agent will visit the boat and offer his services to deal with the authorities.

From Anjouan, the offshore route passes north of Moroni Island, from where boats bound for Dar es Salaam should set a course to make landfall north of Outer Mukatumbe Island in the approaches to Dar es Salaam. A buoyed channel leads from that point into the deep inlet where the port is located. Arriving yachts are normally advised to anchor in the inner harbour and wait to be visited by the various officials.

The offshore route to Mombasa passes east of Pemba Island to make landfall in the approaches to that busy port. Port control should be contacted on channel 12 or 16. Clearance formalities can be completed at two locations, either at the Old Port, on the north side of Mombasa Island, or at the main commercial port of Kilindini Harbour. Mombasa Yacht Club has some moorings for visitors, who are welcome to use the club facilities.

• IS57 Mauritius and Réunion to South Africa

BEST TIME: | October |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4070, US 70 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | East Africa Pilot, South Africa Nautical Almanac. |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Port Louis 20°9.3’S, 57°29.4’E | Port Louis SE 20°8.5’S, 57°28.5’E | Port Louis SW 20°9.0’S, 57°25.5’E Réunion SE 21°22.0’S, 55°51.0’E Langevin S 21°24.0’S, 55°39.0’E |  |  |
Port des Galets 20°56.2’S, 55°17.2’E Saint Pierre 21°20.7’S, 55°28.6’E | Saint Pierre N 21°21.0’S, 55°28.6’E | Galets W 20°56.0’S, 55°16.5’E Saint Pierre S 21°23.0’S, 55°29.0’E Saint Pierre SW 21°23.0’S, 55°27.0’E |  |  |
|  | Madagascar SE |  |  |
|  | 26°17.0’S, 48°20.0’E |  |  |
|  | Richards Bay E | Richards Bay W | Richards Bay | 1508/1377/1369
|  | 28°49.5’S, 32°10.0’E | 28°48.7’S, 32°06.0’E | 28°48.0’S, 32°04.5’E |
|  | Durban NE | Durban S | Durban | 1571/1440/1432
|  | 29°50.5’S, 31°04.5’E | 29°51.8’S, 31°03.6’E | 29°51.8’S, 31°01.5’E |

The initial route from Mauritius passes right by the south coast of Réunion and merges with the routes sailed by boats starting from ports on that island. The best time to make this passage is in late October when the frequency of spring gales around latitude 30ºS is getting lower and the chances of an early cyclone are also low. The recommended tactic is to try and keep well off the southern tip of Madagascar as the weather in the vicinity of this island is often unsettled. Sailing at a fair distance from the island also makes it easier to heave-to should a front arrive with contrary winds.

The weather of the entire area between Madagascar and the Cape of Good Hope is strongly influenced by the frontal systems that are created by Southern Ocean lows moving eastward. The approach of a cold front is usually heralded by a gradual change in the appearance of the sky, with cirrus clouds marching in from the west. These are replaced by dense banks of cumulus, while the wind backs slowly from E to NW, freshening all the time. After a brief interlude the gale arrives from the SW, its severity and duration depending on the nature and extent of the front. During the passing of a front, when the wind shifts suddenly from E or NE to SW, conditions in the Agulhas Current can become hazardous. In such a situation it is best to head immediately for the coast as the waves are smaller in the shallower water near the coast. Alternatively one should try and keep well offshore in deeper water and only approach the coast when close to the destination.

Weather forecasts broadcast by South African stations are usually correct in predicting an impending change in conditions, but a useful indication can also be gained from your barometer, which will give an idea of what to expect. A local method of forecasting the approach of a so-called SW buster is to watch the barometer. As the barometer starts falling, the winds will probably be NE. Once the barometer stops falling, the wind becomes light and then ceases altogether. The moment the barometer starts rising, one has between half an hour and one hour before the arrival of the SW gale, which may be enough warning to leave the 200 m line quickly.

Most passages will encounter mixed weather on this route, but very few are spared the SW gales that occur south of Madagascar and that succeed each other at two-to three-day intervals. After the area south of Madagascar has been passed, a new course should be set for a point 200 miles ENE of Durban, if sailing directly to that port, or just north of Cape St Lucia if bound for Richards Bay. Depending on wind and weather, a direct course can be steered from there to Durban. A common mistake is to allow too much for leeway by trying to make landfall north of Durban and expecting to be taken south by the strong Agulhas Current. However, should a SW gale arrive while closing with the coast, you may end up being pushed north, in which case the alternative is to seek shelter in Richards Bay.

Although it has been suggested that boats bound for South Africa should sail directly to Port Elizabeth in order to avoid the worst of the Agulhas Current, rather than stop at Richards Bay or Durban, experienced local sailors strongly advise against such a course of action. The Agulhas Current reaches its maximum width and strength close to the latitude of Port Elizabeth, making this the most dangerous area during bad weather. Furthermore, the chances of encountering the centre of the lows that are moving parallel with the coast are much greater in those latitudes than if the coast is approached north of Richards Bay, where the Agulhas Current is also narrower.

Before arrival, Richards Bay port authority should be contacted on channel 12 before passing through the harbour entrance in case a large ship is expected to use it. You will be informed to proceed or stand off outside. Yachts must then proceed to the quarantine dock in the small-craft harbour and await to be cleared. After formalities have been completed, visiting boats have a choice between Tuzi Gazi Marina and Zululand Yacht Club. Richards Bay is a convenient place to clear in to South Africa as it has a reasonable range of facilities, with the added attraction of some wildlife reserves in the vicinity.

Those who decide to proceed directly to Durban should make landfall off the fairway buoy NE of the entrance into Durban Harbour. Durban Harbour Radio should be contacted on channel 9 when one mile outside the harbour entrance to request permission to proceed through the entrance channel. Yachts are usually advised to proceed for clearance to the international jetty, after which they should contact Durban Marina to check the availability of a space or mooring buoy. Durban is a good base to leave the boat to visit the interior or prepare for the onward passage, as described in IS63.

IS60 • Routes from South Africa

• | IS61 | South Africa to Réunion and Mauritius | 568
• | IS62 | Durban to Cape Town | 569
• | IS63 | South Africa to Western Australia | 571
• | IS64 | Northbound from South Africa | 571

The gradual easing of restrictions in some African countries has resulted in an increase in the number of cruising boats visiting various countries in East Africa, although the majority continue to limit their cruising to the offlying islands. Most boats reach this area as part of a longer voyage and are on their way to South Africa and the Atlantic. The islands of the South Indian Ocean are occasionally visited by boats coming from South Africa, a tough trip against the prevailing winds and current. Northbound voyages from the South Indian Ocean and East Africa to the Red Sea and Mediterranean were abandoned during the period of heightened piracy activity. Although the threat of piracy has greatly diminished, by late 2021, when this book went to press, the safety situation in the Red Sea continued to be uncertain.

The strong south-setting Agulhas and Mozambique Currents slow down northbound passages along the African shore, although they are aided by prevailing SE and S winds. Further north, along the coast of East Africa, SE winds blow steadily from April to October and rarely exceed 20 knots. The wide northbound current runs close to the shore and can be augmented by these SE winds to reach rates of 3 or 4 knots. During the NE monsoon in the North Indian Ocean, when winds from the NE and E prevail, this current is slacker. Along the Tanzanian coast it is possible to take an inshore route that stays inside the reefs and islands. In recent years Southern Africa has been affected by several tropical storms. Cyclone Fantala struck Tanzania in 2016, while Mozambique has been affected in almost every year by cyclones, with Idai and Kenneth causing widespread devastation in 2019, followed by Chalane in 2020. Weather conditions around South Africa are described in IS62.

IS60 Routes from South Africa

• IS61 South Africa to Réunion and Mauritius

BEST TIME: | June |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4070, US 70 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | I8 Northbound Voyages from South Africa |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Indian Ocean Cruising Guide. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Durban 29°51.8’S, 31°1.5’E Richards Bay 28°48.0’S, 32°4.5’E | Durban S 29°51.8’S, 31°3.6’E Richards Bay W 28°48.7’S, 32°6.0’E | Durban E 29°52.5’S, 31°5.5’E Richards Bay E 28°49.5’S, 32°10.0’E |  |  |
|  | Madagascar SE | Galets W | Port des Galets | 1440/1377
|  | 26°17.0’S, 48°20.0’E | 20°56.0’S, 55°16.5’E | 20°56.2’S, 55°17.2’E |
|  | Saint Pierre SW | Saint Pierre N | Saint Pierre | 1432/1369
|  | 21°23.0’S, 55°27.0’E Mauritius SW 20°29.0’S, 57°08.0’E | 21°21.0’S, 55°28.6’E | 21°20.7’S, 55°28.6’E |
|  | Port Louis SW | Port Louis SE | Port Louis | 1571/1508
|  | 20°09.0’S, 57°25.5’E | 20°08.5’S, 57°28.5’E | 20°09.3’S, 57°29.4’E |

Few boats attempt to sail a rhumb line to these destinations because of the strong south-flowing Agulhas Current and the high probability of encountering contrary winds. Should this be the case, the recommended tactic is to make easting with the help of the prevailing westerly winds of higher latitudes. On leaving Durban or Richards Bay, an attempt needs to be made to gain some easting. Depending on weather conditions, this may be possible between latitudes 30ºS and 35ºS, although it may be necessary to go even further south in search of westerly winds. As late cyclones still pose a threat in early May, sailing east in higher latitudes has the advantage of being well to the south of the critical area. By June, an area of high pressure is occasionally located SE of South Africa, with NE winds prevailing north of the cell and W winds south of it. A direct course for your destination should only be set when sufficient easting has been made. Initially an area of variable winds and calms will be crossed before finding the SE winds. This can be as far south as 30ºS and, once found, they should ensure a fast sail for the rest of the passage. The best period for this route is late May and early June when the cyclone season has come to an end in the South Indian Ocean and the winter gales of higher latitudes are only about to begin.

Occasionally, boats that go well to windward, usually racing yachts, have managed to reach their destination by a more direct route by leaving during a spell of light SW winds, quickly crossing the Agulhas Current and then taking the most favourable tack to make progress.

Arriving at the islands from the south, boats bound for Réunion should make landfall in the approaches to St Pierre. As the entrance to the port is at the mouth of a river, it is prone to silting, but the channel between the sandbanks is well marked. The port captain should be contacted from outside the entrance and, if in doubt, asked for directions. On arrival, boats are normally directed to a berth in the marina and complete formalities at the port captain’s office.

Those who are bound for Mauritius will pass east of Réunion Island and make landfall off Cape Brabant, the SW extremity of Mauritius. From there, the course can be altered for the approaches to Port Louis. Port control should be contacted on channel 16 before entering the harbour. Yachts are directed to tie up to the immigration dock where formalities are completed. After formalities have been dealt with, boats may proceed to nearby Caudan Marina. As the port is not open after darkness, if arriving at night permission should be requested to anchor outside.

• IS62 Durban to Cape Town

BEST TIME: | January to March |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | None |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4070, 4022, US 70, 22 |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | South Africa Nautical Almanac. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Durban | Durban S | Durban E |  |  |
29°51.8’S, 31°01.5’E | 29°51.8’S, 31°03.6’E | 29°52.5’S, 31°05.5’E Cape Hermes 31°45.0’S, 29°53.0’E |  |  |
|  | East London NE 33°01.0’S, 27°57.0’E | East London E 33°01.5’S, 27°55.8’E | East London 33°01.4’S, 27°54.0’E | 259
|  | Port Elizabeth E 33°53.5’S, 26°18.0’E Port Elizabeth SE 34°04.0’S, 25°45.5’E Great Fish Point 33°36.0’S, 27°15.0’E Cape Francis 34°20.0’S, 24°51.0’E | Port Elizabeth NE 33°54.0’S, 25°49.0’E | Port Elizabeth 33°56.5’S, 25°38.0’E | 387
|  | Mossel Bay E 34°10.0’S, 22°12.0’E Mossel Bay SE 34°11.5’S, 22°10.3’E Cape Vacca 34°22.0’S, 21°57.0’E Cape Agulhas 34°56.0’S, 19°59.0’E | Mossel Bay N 34°10.2’S, 22°8.7’E | Mossel Bay 34°10.7’S, 22°8.8’E | 568
|  | Cape of Good Hope 34°24.0’S, 18°21.0’E | Cape S 34°00.5’S, 18°14.5’E | Cape Town X 33°53.0’S, 18°26.0’E | 802

The best time to make this passage along the South African coast is between January and March, when favourable weather conditions can be expected. Few passages are made in one go without seeking shelter in one of the few good ports en route. The lack of sheltered ports and anchorages is only one of three factors that make sailing along this stretch particularly difficult. The other two are the Agulhas Current and the local weather pattern. The Agulhas Current runs in a SW direction following the 200-metre (100 fathom) contour of the continental shelf and can attain up to 6 knots in places. The weather around the southern extremity of the African continent is greatly influenced by pressure systems moving NE from the Southern Ocean. SW gales, combined with the strong south-flowing current, can create giant waves up to 15 metres in height. It has been established from research carried out into the formation of these freak waves that in all cases the dominant waves came from the SW. This always appears to coincide with a specific weather pattern, when areas of low pressure move along the coast in a NE direction. It is not uncommon during such conditions for the wind to suddenly change from a near NE gale to a full SW gale, the wind reinforcing the existing wave pattern, which acts against the Agulhas Current. Usually the largest waves occur between the edge of the continental shelf and an area 20 miles to seaward, and this is the reason why mariners are advised to move inshore inside the 200-metre line as soon as there is a sign of an approaching SW gale. The accepted tactic is to move promptly inshore as soon as the wind starts shifting to SW as the swell will be noticeably lower in shallow waters. It is essential to have detailed local charts so as to be able to either seek shelter or at least tack safely inshore.

It needs to be pointed out that some boats have managed to sail most of this passage by staying well outside the area affected by the Agulhas Current. This can be as much as 60 miles offshore or even further. This is a feasible alternative during settled summer weather, but even so far offshore the weather should be watched carefully to avoid being caught by a deep low coming up from the Southern Ocean. The weather pattern around South Africa changes every three to five days as fronts move towards the continent from the Southern Ocean. They are normally accompanied by WSW winds whose force increases as the front approaches and the barometric pressure also rises. The pressure peaks with the passage of the front and as the pressure starts dropping the wind backs to the SE, then E and finally ENE. This pattern can last from one to three days before the arrival of the next front is heralded by a rise in barometric pressure. The situation is exacerbated by the presence of the Agulhas Current, which runs roughly parallel to the coast, first in a SW then W direction. The current is strongest along the 200-metre contour in the section between Durban and Mossel Bay. The warm Agulhas Current dissipates over the Agulhas Bank where it meets the cold Benguela Current.

Durban to East London

As there is absolutely no safe shelter along this stretch of coast, aptly called the Wild Coast, it is essential to leave Durban with a good forecast. The recommended tactic is to leave Durban at the end of a SW gale when the barometer has topped out above 1020 millibars. From Durban, the course should head straight for the 200-metre line to take full advantage of the strong south-setting current. If the weather deteriorates unexpectedly, you must close with the shore immediately so as to avoid the worst of the waves.

East London to Port Elizabeth

The same rules for leaving apply as for the run from Durban, with the proviso that if the weather is still favourable when level with East London and the barometer is not falling dramatically, it is better to continue to Port Elizabeth rather than stop at East London. In the case of a sudden deterioration of the weather, the same kind of avoiding action should be taken as described earlier. It must be stressed that the Agulhas Current is very strong between these two ports and also that there are inshore-setting currents into some of the bays en route.

Port Elizabeth to Mossel Bay

This section presents fewer problems than the previous ones as there are several places en route where one can shelter from a gale. One of the first of these ports is Knysna, although the entrance is quite difficult because of the strong tidal currents and can become hazardous during a SW gale when heavy swells break across the entrance. As the surrounding area is one of the most scenic areas in the whole of South Africa, a stop in Knysna should not be missed. Advice on how to negotiate the tricky entrance can be obtained from the National Sea Rescue Institute, who monitor channel 16. Shelter can also be found in Mossel Bay, near Cape Seal in Plettenberg Bay, or close to Cape St Francis, where you should be wary of uncharted reefs. The anchorage at Cape St Francis should be avoided in a SW blow when the large swell makes it untenable unless one is prepared to anchor in deep water.

Mossel Bay to Cape Town

There are several places where one can anchor safely during poor weather and on no account should Cape Agulhas be rounded in bad conditions. There are onshore-setting currents near all headlands on this route, which are also fronted by reefs, making navigation difficult, especially in poor visibility. Having passed the southern extremity of Africa, the route turns north to pass the Cape of Good Hope, initially named the Cape of Storms by the Portuguese explorer Bartolomeu Dias, who was the first European navigator to reach the Indian Ocean by passing south of Africa in 1488. It was later renamed the Cape of Good Hope both because of the great optimism engendered by the opening of a sea route to India and the East, and because passing this important landmark had such a special significance for the navigators returning home.

On arrival in Cape Town, contact Port Control on channel 14 who usually directs visiting boats to either the Royal Cape Yacht Club or Victoria and Alfred Waterfront Marina. The various offices are then visited from there to complete the necessary formalities. The marina is closer to the centre of Cape Town, whereas the Royal Cape Yacht Club is located at the SE end of Duncan Dock. The RCYC always welcomes visiting boats and has excellent facilities.

• IS63 South Africa to Western Australia

BEST TIME: | December to February |  |  |  |
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4022, 4070, US 22, 70 |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IS63A |  |  |  |  |
Cape Town X | Cape S | Cape of Good Hope |  |  |
33°53.0’S, 18°26.0’E | 34°0.5’S, 18°14.5’E | 34°24.0’S, 18°21.0’E |  |  |
|  | Cape Agulhas | Fremantle W | Fremantle | 4712
|  | 34°56.0’S, 19°59.0’E | 32°1.2’S, 115°37.0’E | 32°3.3’S, 115°44.0’E |
Route IS63B |  |  |  |  |
Richards Bay | Richards Bay W | Richards Bay E |  |  | 4217
28°48.0’S, 32°4.5’E | 28°48.7’S, 32°6.0’E | 28°49.5’S, 32°10.0’E |  |  |
Durban | Durban S | Durban E | Fremantle W | Fremantle | 4238
29°51.8’S, 31°1.5’E | 29°51.8’S, 31°3.6’E | 29°52.5’S, 31°5.5’E |  |  |

As most of this passage will be made in an area of prevailing westerly winds, it is recommended to sail it in the southern summer when the frequency of gales is lowest, the weather warmer and there is little risk of encountering icebergs. The route runs between latitudes 39ºS and 40ºS, where the proportion of westerly winds is relatively high during the summer. Although the recommended time coincides with the cyclone season, tropical storms very rarely reach high latitudes and the only area where they might be encountered is close to Western Australia.

Passages starting from Cape Town should sail a course that avoids the area of the Agulhas Bank, which has a high frequency of gales and also a contrary current. Even if the initial course made good is SSW because of SE winds, the lost ground can be made up later when the area of westerly winds has been reached. Passages starting from Durban or Richards Bay need to sail the best course to reach the area of prevailing westerly winds by the shortest route. It must be stressed that a reluctance to go far enough south in search of westerly winds and staying around latitude 35ºS usually means a higher proportion of SE winds, and therefore a much slower passage. The course should be altered for Fremantle only after meridian 100ºE has been crossed.

The Australian Border Force must be notified 96 hours prior to arrival. Details of the boat, crew, last port, if there are animals or firearms on board, and ETA should be emailed to yachtreport@homeaffairs.gov.au. There are severe penalties for not doing this and also for stopping anywhere before having cleared in. With the exception of New Zealand citizens, all foreign visitors must arrive with a valid Australian visa. See the government website www. abf.gov.au for further details.

Shortly before landfall at Fremantle, port control should be contacted on channel 16. Arriving boats are normally directed to the boarding station located at the Fremantle Sailing Club, south of the commercial harbour.

Boats bound for South or East Australia should refer to route IS17.

• IS64 Northbound from South Africa

BEST TIME: | June to October
TROPICAL STORMS: | November to May
CHARTS: | BA 4070, US 70
World Voyage Planner: | I8 Northbound Voyages from South Africa
CRUISING GUIDE: | East Africa Pilot.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Route IS64A |  |  |  |  |
Richards Bay 28°48.0’S, 32°04.5’E | Richards Bay W 28°48.7’S, 32°06.0’E | Richards Bay E 28°49.5’S, 32°10.0’E Cape St Lucia 28°33.0’S, 32°31.0’E Maputo E 25°54.0’S, 33°13.0’E |  |  |
|  | Maputo NE | Matola Channel | Maputo X | 135
|  | 25°49.0’S, 32°56.0’E Mozambique E 24°07.0’S, 35°52.0’E | 25°59.5’S, 32°35.2’E | 25°57.3’S, 32°31.5’E |
|  | Mozambique NE | Nacala E | Nacala X | 1032
|  | 15°02.0’S, 41°0.0’E | 14°18.5’S, 40°54.0’E | 14°32.0’S, 40°39.5’E |
Route IS64B |  |  |  |  |
Richards Bay | Richards Bay W | Richards Bay E | Toliara NW 23°19.5’S, 43°34.5’E | Toliara 23°22.2’S, 43°38.8’E | 707
|  | Europa E 22°22.0’S, 40°36.0’E Juan de Nova W 16°58.0’S, 42°28.5’E |  |  |
|  | Nosy Be W | Nosy Be S | Hell-Ville | 1350
|  | 13°23.0’S, 47°42.0’E | 13°25.0’S, 48°17.0’E | 13°24.3’S, 48°17.0’E |

Because of the unfavourable current, general lack of yachting facilities and other difficulties, boats setting off from South Africa with the intention of visiting places on the east side of the continent have little choice but to make the best of what is available. Good planning will help in finding a weather window with favourable conditions at least for the start of the northbound passage, although strong SW winds will have to be avoided because of the dangerous conditions created when they collide with the south-flowing Agulhas Current.

The prevailing winds as far as the Mozambique Channel are SE or SW and, especially in the vicinity of land, are light in the morning but can reach gale force by the afternoon. A spell of light to moderate SE winds is the best time to leave and Richards Bay, as the northernmost South African port, is the ideal place to wait for favourable weather conditions.

Northbound boats have a choice between staying close to the African coast or sailing across to Madagascar. Those who wish to stop in Mozambique should follow the African coast and make landfall off Cape Inhaca at the entrance into the Bay of Maputo. The capital of Mozambique lies on the north bank of the Espirito Santo River and is reached through one of two channels, the northern one being recommended for those who do not know the area as it is simpler and used by large ships. Port control should be contacted on channel 16 and visiting boats are normally directed to tie up to one of the commercial docks. There is a marina in Maputo but formalities need to be completed first before proceeding there.

The long coast of Mozambique has many attractions for northbound boats as far as Nacala, the last port to clear out of the country. Located in a beautiful landlocked bay, Nacala is a major whale-watching destination with humpback whales congregating here between July and September.

Boats sailing the offshore route IS64B to Madagascar may complete entry formalities at Toliara, the southernmost port of entry. The port is protected by a barrier reef and visiting yachts may come alongside the commercial dock to complete formalities. Further north along the west coast of Madagascar, the port of Morondava may provide a more convenient place to clear into that country. The offshore route may be sailed all the way to Nosy Be and the cruising grounds off the NW coast of Madagascar. The route passes east of Europa Island and west of Juan de Nova, two French possessions where the passage may be interrupted.

WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE RED SEA

The distinctive long shape of the Red Sea, bordered by low arid coasts with high mountains rising some 20 miles inland, dictates in some measure the direction of winds, which tend to blow parallel to these coasts, from either a NW or SE direction. These winds differ significantly in the southern and northern areas of the Red Sea, and in the south show a seasonal variation due to the movement of the convergence zone between the wind systems of the northern and southern hemispheres. Generally, it can be assumed that in the northern half of the Red Sea the predominant winds are northerly, and mostly southerly in its southern part.

Although the Red Sea is well to the north of the equator, the ITCZ moves into this area and reaches its furthest northern position in July, around 12ºN. At this time of year, the ITCZ marks the boundary between the SW monsoon of the Indian Ocean and the prevailing NW winds of the Northern Red Sea. During these summer months, NW winds often blow down the entire length of the Red Sea, merging into the SW monsoon of the Gulf of Aden.

In winter the ITCZ lies well to the south of this region, but there is another unrelated convergence zone which lies around 18ºN from October to May, and marks the boundary between the SE winds in the southern part of the Red Sea and the NW winds of the northern section. This convergence zone is usually marked by cloudy skies, rain and drizzle, in contrast to the ubiquitous sunshine prevailing in the region as a whole.

SE winds predominate from October to January in all areas south of the convergence zone. From January to May, the SE winds predominate in the most southerly areas and in the Strait of Bab el Mandeb. These winds are strongest from November to February, averaging around 20 knots, but gale force winds of 30 knots and over occur fairly frequently. September and May are transitional months with lighter winds. In the Strait of Bab el Mandeb a funnelling effect increases wind speeds at all times of the year, but especially in the winter months of November to March, when winds frequently blow at 25 knots or more.

In the northern part of the Red Sea from around 20ºN, winds from the N to NW predominate in all months of the year, being stronger in winter than in summer. However, in the most northerly part, the Gulf of Suez, wind speeds are more frequently over 20 knots from April to October with the highest frequency of gale force winds during this time. Wind conditions vary greatly over the Red Sea but, in spite of occasional calms, most of the time the winds are moderate to strong. In the middle section of the Red Sea, light to moderate winds are quite common, but at the two extremes calms and light winds are rare and short-lived, and are usually followed by a period of strong winds. No tropical storms have been recorded in any part of the Red Sea. There are, however, two strong winds occurring in this region. The haboob is akin to a short squall accompanied by strong winds of over 35 knots from south or west that occurs off the coast of Sudan, raising lots of sand and dust. These winds occur particularly in the Port Sudan area and are most common between July and September. The other wind is the khamsin, a strong dry S to SE wind, which blows off the land and causes sandstorms. It occurs most commonly between February and May.

Both these winds reduce visibility considerably, especially near the coast. On the other hand, due to the special refraction conditions prevailing in the Red Sea, the coast, islands and prominent landmarks are often visible for much greater distances than normal, sometimes from as far as 100 miles away. A brilliant luminescence sometimes occurs in the Red Sea, making the water appear shallower. With the presence of unlit reefs extending far offshore in several places, these conditions may explain why so many yachts have come to grief in this region in the past. Satellite navigation has improved safety considerably, but navigation should still be treated with due caution, as some charts do not agree with satellite observations, and the positions of many dangers are only approximate.

The Red Sea area is a hot, arid region with a low rainfall. The average temperature is very high, around 30ºC, but often reaches over 40ºC in daytime and even temperatures exceeding 50ºC are not uncommon. Temperatures are lowest in winter in the more northerly part, dropping to 18ºC in the Gulf of Suez on a winter night. This contrasts with the southern areas of the Red Sea, where in August the temperature is over 40ºC by day and does not drop below 32ºC even at night.

Currents

The overall direction of the currents in the Red Sea is influenced by the monsoons in the Indian Ocean. From November until April, during the NE monsoon, water is pushed into the Red Sea and there is a predominantly north to northwest-setting current along the axis of the Red Sea. From May until October, when the SW monsoon prevails over the Indian Ocean, water is drawn out of the Red Sea and a south to southeast-setting current prevails. Due to the narrowness and shape of the Red Sea, there is a great variability in the direction of the currents, with lateral currents flowing in and out from the main stream, particularly near islands and reefs. These cross-currents occur in all months and are very variable. The strongest current is experienced in the Strait of Bab el Mandeb, reaching 2 knots during the NE monsoon. There is little or no current in the transitional months between monsoons, in April and May, or in October.

ROUTES IN THE RED SEA

In spite of its many attractions, good anchorages, excellent fishing and magnificent diving, the Red Sea has just as many disadvantages from the cruising point of view and therefore most sailors on a world voyage try and pass through it as quickly as possible. In most cases the problems are of a political nature and countries such as Saudi Arabia and Yemen do not encourage yachts to visit them, while Sudan only tolerates them. The reception in Egypt depends entirely on the current situation, which can change from day to day, although the transit of the Suez Canal itself is normally dealt with efficiently. By late 2021, when this book went to press, the political uncertainty in most countries bordering the Red Sea had made the entire area unsafe for cruising.

For the above reasons, the political situation in the bordering countries should be followed carefully before arriving in the Red Sea to know whether there are any areas that should be avoided. As the Middle East is one of the most volatile regions of the world, the current situation should be monitored continuously by listening regularly to the international news on a reputable station such as the BBC World Service.

For those who may be put off by too much paperwork and too many dealings with officials, the drastic alternative is to undertake a nonstop passage up or down the middle of the Red Sea. Unfortunately such a solution may be just as unattractive because of the large amount of shipping and often unfavourable wind. In the days when this area was still considered to be relatively safe, a compromise solution was to alternate offshore legs with coastal cruising in daily hops. The method has much to commend it as it is less trying on the crew than a nonstop passage and also more enjoyable. The average time in which the entire length of the Red Sea can be navigated in this manner is between three and four weeks.

Because coastal cruising is outside the scope of this book, only the offshore passages are described in detail. However, as some of the distances may be covered in shorter stages, all relevant charts should be carried on board. Reefs and other dangers are well marked on the charts, and navigation among the reefs is not difficult in good light. Eyeball navigation is not as difficult as it would appear, and provided the time of arrival is planned carefully, so as to have good light when entering a reef anchorage, navigating among the coastal reefs should present no great problem. When seeking an anchorage for the night it is advisable not to leave this until too late in the afternoon because the lower sun casts a sheen over the water obscuring dangers that otherwise are easily seen.

Unfortunately the continuing political uncertainty in most countries bordering on the Red Sea has deemed the entire area as being unsafe for cruising.

Windgrams showing a summary of wind conditions along some popular cruising routes

Djibouti to Port Sudan, February

Port Sudan to Suez, March

RN • Northbound Routes

• | RN1 | Gulf of Aden to Port Sudan | 577
• | RN2 | Gulf of Aden to Eritrea | 579
• | RN3 | Massawa to Port Sudan | 580
• | RN4 | Gulf of Aden to Hodaida | 580
• | RN5 | Port Sudan to Southern Egypt | 581
• | RN6 | Southern Egypt to Suez | 582
• | RN7 | Southern Egypt to Gulf of Aqaba | 583

RN Northbound routes

Regardless of the time of year, northbound boats usually have to contend with contrary winds for at least half their passage up the Red Sea. Therefore it is difficult to recommend a preferred time of year, especially as the Red Sea passage is usually a continuation of a longer voyage, the timing of which had been decided by other factors. Most boats undertake their northbound voyage at the end of winter, between February and April, usually after having crossed the North Indian Ocean during the NE monsoon. At that time the easterlies in the Gulf of Aden usually turn to southerlies in the lower half of the Red Sea. In the northern half of the Red Sea, NW winds prevail throughout the year, but they tend to be lighter in spring than in winter, making April one of the best months for the northbound voyage. Another advantage of a late March or April passage is that the Mediterranean is reached as the weather starts getting warmer and the cruising season begins. Although the headwinds of the Red Sea have become something of a legend among sailors, it must be pointed out that winds do not always follow the axis of the sea and boats can usually choose the more favourable tack. Another observation worth bearing in mind is that the wind tends to shift with the sun, being more NNE in the morning and NW in the afternoon. During one of the round-the-world rallies, all boats in the racing division managed to sail the entire distance between Port Sudan and Suez, some of the boats with good windward performance having to tack very little by using the slant of the winds to best advantage and covering the distance in remarkably fast times. Even some of the boats in the cruising division coped with the contrary winds well and, as they were allowed to use their engines, good times were recorded by motorsailing at the most efficient angle whenever possible.

Apart from having to cope with the unfavourable wind direction, northbound boats have also run into difficulties with overzealous local officials, often military. It is therefore strongly recommended not to land and go ashore in any country before having cleared in correctly, avoid any military areas and, if anchoring in remote places, to do it in the company of other boats. Cruising boats are normally not welcome in the Saudi port of Jeddah but an exception has always been made in genuine emergencies.

Although in late 2021 the situation in the Red Sea and adjoining area, especially Yemen, was still considered unsafe for cruising boats, routes to some critical areas continue to be featured in the hope that some day the situation would return to normal.

• RN1 Gulf of Aden to Port Sudan

BEST TIME: | February to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | I3 South East Asia to the | Mediterranean |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Red Sea Pilot. |  |  |  |
WAYPOI NTS : |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Aden | Tarshayn W | Aden SW |  |  |
12°47.5’N, 44°58.0’E | 12°46.5’N, 44°57.5’E | 12°42.0’N, 44°55.5’E |  |  |
Djibouti | Djibouti S | Djibouti N |  |  |
11°36.3’N, 43°08.0’E | 11°36.2’N, 43°07.6’E | 11°48.0’N, 43°08.5’E |  |  |
|  | Bab el Mandeb SE |  |  |
|  | 12°18.0’N, 43°46.5’E Bab el Mandeb S 12°33.0’N, 43°27.0’E Bab el Mandeb NW 13°14.5’N, 43°02.5’E Zuqar NE 14°05.0’N, 42°51.0’E |  |  |
|  | Zubair SW | Hodaida N | Hodaida X | 325/308
|  | 14°58.0’N, 42°04.0’E | 14°58.0’N, 42°51.3’E | 14°51.2’N, 42°56.2’E |
|  | South Channel S | South Channel N | Massawa X | 405/388
|  | 14°47.0’N, 41°15.0’E | 15°32.6’N, 39°57.3’E | 15°36.7’N, 39°28.3’E |
|  | Al Tair W 15°30.0’N, 41°44.0’E |  |  |
|  | Masamirit E |  |  |
|  | 18°52.0’N, 38°54.5’E |  |  |
|  | Hindi Gider E | Port Sudan SE | Port Sudan | 675/658
|  | 19°27.5’N, 38°04.0’E | 19°35.5’N, 37°15.5’E | 19°36.5’N, 37°13.8’E |

All comments and suggested landfalls are meant for the times when the situation in this region has returned to normal. For this reason only Djibouti can be recommended as a landfall, as it is considered safe, has reasonable repair facilities and good provisioning. It also has regular flights to Paris, which makes it a convenient stop for crew changes.

The weather at the recommended time is usually favourable with a north-setting current in the Strait of Bab el Mandeb and southerly winds possibly as far as the latitude of Port Sudan.

The routes from Aden and Djibouti merge south of the Strait of Bab el Mandeb (Gates of Sorrow). From the northern end of the strait, a course is set to stay with the northbound traffic as far as the Zuqar Islands, which are left to port. The next mark to make for is the Zubair Islands, which are passed on their west side. At this point, boats bound for the Yemeni port of Hodaida will leave the main route to turn east, as described in RN4. The route for boats bound for Massawa in Eritrea turns west and is outlined in detail in RN2.

From the Zubair Islands, the main route continues in a NW direction past Jabal al Tair, whose powerful light is an excellent reference while negotiating a safe course between the various dangers that front both shores of the Red Sea, the width of the fairway being about 60 miles in this area. Depending on weather conditions, the passage can be made either nonstop or in shorter stages by anchoring at one of the island groups en route. If the winds are favourable it is advisable to make as much northing as possible while they last, rather than stop in the islands. Both the Hanish and the Zubair Islands belong to Yemen, and although anchoring by yachts in transit is usually tolerated, landing is prohibited.

From Jabal al Tair, the course is altered to pass halfway between the Farasan Islands on the Saudi side and the Dahlak Bank off the Eritrean coast. For those who do not wish to take the inshore route to Port Sudan, this route continues offshore to the light on Masamirit Island, which should be approached from the SE and passed on its east side because of the dangerous area south of it. The course can then be altered for Hindi Gider Light, passing outside the numerous reefs that litter this area. There follows a final course alteration to make landfall south of Wingate Reef, at the entrance into Port Sudan.

Port control should be called on channel 16 or 14 before entering the port. Yachts are normally directed to the small-craft anchorage on the south side of the inner basin, opposite the container harbour. The services of a local agent must be employed to deal with the various authorities, and he will arrange to bring the officials to the boat. Facilities are very basic but provisioning is good. Fuel is easily available, but this must also be done via an agent, several of whom will approach the boat on arrival offering their services.

Those who prefer to cover some of the distances south of Port Sudan in shorter stages by sailing an inshore route inside the reefs can close with the Sudanese coast at various points. The first option is to make for Khor Nawarat, a sheltered anchorage lying close to the border between Eritrea and Sudan. The approach channel to Khor Nawarat passes south of Dahrat Abid, a small island at the southern extremity of the Suakin group.

An alternative way to reach the Sudanese coast is to pass close to the south of Masamirit Island and make for Trinkitat Harbour by threading one’s way carefully through the various reefs. An inshore passage, reasonably well beaconed, leads from both Khor Nawarat and Trinkitat to Port Sudan. An interesting stop on this inshore route is the ancient city of Suakin. A marked channel leads to the old city ruins, which used to be a major trading centre between the Orient, East Africa and the Mediterranean. The once prosperous city is now in ruins, but it is still easy to imagine its former splendour. The port captain should be contacted on channel 14. Although not listed as an official port of entry, it is usually possible to complete entry formalities here.

• RN2 Gulf of Aden to Eritrea

BEST TIME: | February to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Red Sea Pilot. |  |  |  |
WAYPOI NTS : |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Aden | Tarshayn W | Aden SW |  |  |
12°47.5’N, 44°58.0’E | 12°46.5’N, 44°57.5’E | 12°42.0’N, 44°55.5’E |  |  |
Djibouti | Djibouti S | Djibouti N |  |  |
11°36.3’N, 43°08.0’E | 11°36.2’N, 43°07.6’E | 11°48.0’N, 43°08.5’E Bab el Mandeb SE 12°18.0’N, 43°46.5’E |  |  |
|  | Bab el Mandeb S | Assab NE | Assab X | 158/141
|  | 12°33.0’N, 43°27.0’E | 13°06.0’N, 42°52.5’E | 12°59.8’N, 42°45.0’E |
|  | Bab el Mandeb NW 13°14.5’N, 43°02.5’E Zuqar NE 14°05.0’N, 42°51.0’E South Channel S 14°47.0’N, 41°15.0’E |  |  |
|  | South Channel N | Massawa E | Massawa X | 405/388
|  | 15°32.6’N, 39°57.3’E | 15°40.0’N, 39°39.5’E | 15°36.7’N, 39 °28.3’E |

As a result of the cessation of hostilities with Ethiopia, the Eritrean authorities are encouraging tourism and cruising boats are welcome to call. Assab is a convenient port of entry at the southern extremity of the country. From halfway up the Strait of Bab el Mandeb, the northbound shipping lane needs to be left and a course set to make landfall north of Ras Fatuma. The large Bay of Assab (Aseb) opens to the south, with the town of the same name being located on the west shore. Coming alongside the commercial dock can be dangerous because of the swell, so it is advisable to anchor in the lee of the sea wall. Officials rarely board yachts and formalities will be completed ashore. A stop in Assab should only be considered if the intention is to cruise the rest of the way to Massawa, or to await a spell of favourable wind. As there is little protection from strong southerlies, those winds should be used to good advantage by continuing to Massawa.

Boats bound for Massawa should leave the northbound shipping lane SW of the Zubair Islands and sail due west to the entrance to the South Massawa Channel. This channel, between the African mainland and the Dahlak Islands, leads into Massawa (Mits’iwa), Eritrea’s main port. Massawa port control should be called on channel 16 when near the entrance into the harbour. Yachts are normally directed to tie up at the quay as anchoring before formalities are completed is not allowed. Shore passes need to be obtained from immigration. The process for obtaining the compulsory cruising permit to visit the offshore Dahlak Islands is complicated and may entail a trip to the capital Asmara. Stopping in the islands without a permit is strictly forbidden. Eritrea and its waters continues to be regarded as unsafe and should be avoided. In 2021 it was announced that the port of Assab was closed.

• RN3 Massawa to Port Sudan

BEST TIME: | February to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | I3 South East Asia to Suez |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Red Sea Pilot. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Massawa X 15°36.7’N, 39°28.3’E | Massawa NE 15°38.5’N, 39°30.5’E | North Channel S 15°54.0’N, 39°27.0’E North Channel N 16°37.0’N, 39°14.5’E Masamirit S 18°30.0’N, 38°57.5’E Masamirit E 18°52.0’N, 38°54.5’E |  |  |
|  | Hindi Gider E | Port Sudan SE | Port Sudan | 307
|  | 19°27.5’N, 38°04.0’E | 19°35.5’N, 37°15.5’E | 19°36.5’N, 37°13.8’E |

Although the continuation of the northbound voyage can be made in the sheltered waters of an inshore route, the offshore route can be rejoined by leaving Massawa through the North Channel. The recommended route follows a clear channel between the mainland and Harat Island. The route then passes west of the light on Difnein Island from where the offshore route can be joined south of Masamirit Island. The alternative is to continue parallel to the mainland coast past Khor Nawarat as described in RN1. There have been occasional tensions in the border area between the Eritrea and Sudan and the inshore route should be avoided. Staying in international waters and sailing the offshore route would be advisable. Route RN1 details the offshore route, as well as the approaches to Port Sudan, whereas route RN5 describes some of the stops that may be considered north of Sudan.

• RN4 Gulf of Aden to Hodaida

BEST TIME: | February to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Red Sea Pilot. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Aden | Tarshayn W | Aden SW |  |  |
12°47.5’N, 44°58.0’E | 12°46.5’N, 44°57.5’E | 12°42.0’N, 44°55.5’E |  |  |
Djibouti | Djibouti S | Djibouti N |  |  |
11°36.3’N, 43°8.0’E | 11°36.2’N, 43°7.6’E | 11°48.0’N, 43°8.5’E |  |  |
|  | Bab el Mandeb SE 12°18.0’N, 43°46.5’E Bab el Mandeb S 12°33.0’N, 43°27.0’E Bab el Mandeb NW 13°14.5’N, 43°02.5’E Zuqar NE 14°05.0’N, 42°51.0’E |  |  |
|  | Hodaida SW | Hodaida N | Hodaida X | 325/308
|  | 14°53.0’N, 42°44.5’E | 14°58.0’N, 42°51.3’E | 14°51.2’N, 42°56.2’E |

Boats bound for Hodeida should follow the same directions as for route RN1 until Zuqar Island has been passed. North of the island a new course can be set to make landfall west of Ras Kathib. This is the northern point of a long and narrow peninsula that has created a perfectly sheltered natural harbour in which the port of Hodeida occupies the southern extremity. A 10-mile-long buoyed channel leads into Hodeida, whose port control should be contacted on channel 16 to advise on ETA, name of vessel and other details before permission is given to proceed into the port. Because of safety concerns, Hodeida and any other Yemeni port should be visited only if the security situation warrants it.

• RN5 Port Sudan to Southern Egypt

BEST TIME: | February to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | I3 South East Asia to the | Mediterranean |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Red Sea Pilot. |  |  |  |
WAYPOI NTS : |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Port Sudan | Port Sudan E | Port Sudan NE |  |  |
19°36.5’N, 37°13.8’E | 19°36.0’N, 37°17.0’E | 19°44.0’N, 37°34.5’E |  |  |
|  | Angarosh E | Jeddah SW | Jeddah X | 186
|  | 20°54.0’N, 37°35.5’E | 21°24.0’N, 39°2.0’E | 21°28.2’N, 39°9.5’E |
|  | Zabargad E | Port Ghalib E | Port Ghalib X | 426
|  | 23°37.0’N, 36°24.0’E Daedalus Reef W 24°55.0’N, 35°49.0’E | 25°36.0’N, 34°54.0’E | 25°32.0’N, 34°38.4’E |
|  | Brothers W | Safaga S | Safaga X | 500
|  | 26°18.0’N, 34°42.5’E | 26°37.0’N, 34°02.5’E | 26°41.6’N, 33°59.6’E |
|  | Hurghada E | Hurghada NE | Hurghada X | 532
|  | 27°16.0’N, 34°0.0’E | 27°17.0’N, 33°52.5’E | 27°15.2’N, 33°51.4’E |

Boats heading north from Port Sudan bound for Southern Egypt and the Suez Canal have the choice of an inshore route that follows the coast closely and occasionally stays inside the reefs, or sailing the entire distance offshore. The best area for day sailing starts immediately north of Port Sudan, with several well-protected inlets among the reefs.

Having left Port Sudan, an initial course is set to pass east of Sanganeb Reef. Compared to the southern half of the Red Sea, its northern part has fewer offshore dangers. The recommended route runs roughly parallel to the axis of the Red Sea, although it favours the Sudanese side in case the decision is taken to head for the coast and seek temporary shelter in one of the many inlets. The offshore route passes west of the Saudi port of Jeddah, where foreign yachts are normally not welcome. However, exceptions have been made by the authorities and all necessary assistance has been rendered in genuine emergencies.

Having passed east of Angarosh Reef, a new course is set for Gezirat Zabargad, a high rocky islet off Foul Bay, an area that is best avoided even by those who have been coastal sailing to this point. The route passes east of Zabargad, just north of the boundary between Sudan and Egypt. North of Foul Bay, longer offshore legs become increasingly necessary as there are fewer safe anchorages along the Egyptian coast. The offshore route continues in a NW direction towards the Brothers, two prominent rocks that can be passed on either side. Before reaching that point, the offshore route can be left to call at Port Ghalib, which is the southernmost port of entry into Egypt and a convenient place to complete formalities. Port Ghalib Marina is an artificial harbour, part of a large tourist resort. Port control should be called two hours before arrival. The marina may assist with formalities or recommend a local agent. A cruising permit should be obtained here if the intention is to stop en route to Suez.

Having passed the Brothers, a detour can be made to Safaga by those who have not yet cleared in to Egypt. Safaga port control should be contacted on channel 16 before the port is entered. The port captain often insists that boats that have arrived from abroad come alongside the main dock. As this is unsuitable for small vessels, permission may be granted to use the anchorage in front of the Paradise Hotel. When clearing in, a cruising permit should be requested by those who intend to stop en route to Suez.

Hurghada is the main town and port south of the Gulf of Suez. To complete formalities, it is possible to come alongside the ferry dock or anchor in the vicinity. Formalities are complicated and lengthy and the services of a local agent are advisable. The alternative is to use either Hurghada Marina or El Gouna Marina further north, but they must be contacted in advance to make a reservation. Both marinas are convenient places to leave the boat to visit Luxor and other ancient sites on the Upper Nile.

• RN6 Southern Egypt to Suez

BEST TIME: | February to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | I3 South East Asia to the Mediterranean |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Red Sea Pilot. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Port Ghalib X 25°32.0’N, 34°38.4’E | Port Ghalib E 25°36.0’N, 34°54.0’E |  |  |  |
Hurghada X | Hurghada NE | Gubal S | Suez S | Suez X | 307/193
27°15.2’N, 33°51.4’E | 27°17.0’N, 33°52.5’E | 27°30.5’N, 34°9.5’E | 29°38.5’N, 32°33.5’E | 29°56.0’N, 32°32.4’E |

From Hurghada, the Gulf of Suez can be reached via the Tawila Channel, which avoids a detour past Shaker Island and the Strait of Gubal. Those who wish to continue on the offshore route should set a course from the Brothers to enter the Strait of Gubal east of Shaker Island. From that point, the route runs down the middle of the Gulf of Suez to make landfall in the approaches to Suez. Navigation through the narrow Gulf of Suez can be daunting, due to the numerous oil rigs, heavy shipping and the usually contrary wind. The problem is exacerbated by the presence of many disused oil platforms, some of which are not marked by lights. Traffic separation lanes are in operation for the entire length of the Gulf of Suez, with northbound traffic using the right-hand lane. Sailing boats, especially if they need to tack, or if motorsailing to windward, normally fare better by favouring the eastern side of the narrow gulf.

The Suez Canal Authority should be contacted on channel 16 to give an ETA. If Suez Bay is reached during the night it is recommended to anchor either off the main channel or in the waiting area in Port Ibrahim and wait for daylight before passing through the heavy traffic to the Suez Canal Yacht Club in Port Tewfik. As the yacht club is in the Suez Canal area, yachts should not proceed there without permission from the Canal Authority. If not using the yacht club, the recommended anchorage for yachts intending to transit the canal is just inside the southern breakwater in Port Ibrahim. The breakwater can be passed either west or east and the anchorage is at its eastern end, close to the entrance into the North Basin.

A shipping agent will arrive in his launch soon after Suez Bay has been entered and will offer to make arrangements for transiting the Suez Canal. Agency fees are extremely competitive and skippers are advised not to accept an offer before a fee has been agreed. Agents normally deal with all formalities, both for entry into Egypt, for those who have not yet done so, and for transiting the canal. The agent will also arrange for the boat to use the facilities of the Suez Canal Yacht Club, which is a convenient place for those who may decide to visit Cairo from here and not from Port Said. See also here concerning the transit through the Suez Canal.

• RN7 Southern Egypt to Gulf of Aqaba

BEST TIME: | February to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Red Sea Pilot. |  |  |  |
WAYPOI NTS : |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Hurghada X | Hurghada NE | Gubal S | Sharm El Sheik S | Sharm El Sheik X | 49
27°15.2’N, 33°51.4’E | 27°17.0’N, 33°52.5’E | 27°30.5’N, 34°9.5’E | 27°45.5’N, 34°22.5’E | 27°51.0’N, 34°16.7’E |
|  | Tiran Strait S 27°57.0’N, 34°27.5’E |  |  |
|  | Tiran Strait N | Taba SE | Taba Heights X | 141
|  | 28°1.0’N, 34°28.5’E | 29°22.0’N, 34°48.5’E | 29°22.3’N, 34°47.5’E |
|  |  | Eilat S | Eilat X | 153
|  |  | 29°32.5’N, 34°58.0’E | 29°33.2’N, 34°57.6’E |
|  |  | Aqaba SW | Aqaba X | 152
|  |  | 29°31.5’N, 34°59.5’E | 29°31.8’N, 34°59.8’E |

Bordered by Saudi Arabia, Jordan, Israel and Egypt, the Gulf of Aqaba has the potential to become a popular cruising ground, but, as so often in the Middle East, it may be a long time before this comes to pass.

Whether coming from the north or west, Sharm el Sheik will be passed on the way to the Tiran Strait, which leads into the Gulf of Aqaba. This busy Egyptian tourist resort has a limited range of yachting facilities that can hardly cope with local demand and visiting sailors may get a better response to their needs elsewhere. Unfortunately that may be at the top end of the Gulf of Aqaba where the only existing marinas were concentrated at the time of writing.

Taba Heights is located close to the border with Israel, where the marina is part of a tourist resort development. The marina is a port of entry and provides a good range of facilities.

Eilat Marina, in neighbouring Israel, is adjacent to the port of that name. As elsewhere in Israel, strict security measures are in operation and formalities reflect this. The marina has limited facilities. Anyone who visits Eilat first will not be allowed into Jordan so it is advisable to stop in Jordan first if planning to visit both countries.

The port of Aqaba is situated at the head of the Gulf that bears its name. It is Jordan’s only seaport and is close to the border with Israel. The Aqaba port authority must be called on channel 16 or 12 on arrival in Jordanian waters. Instructions will be given where to proceed. The Royal Jordanian Yacht Club is located near the commercial port and operates its own marina where visiting boats are welcome. Formalities can be completed at the marina. The alternative is to use the services of Tala Bay Marina, which is located on an offshore island within the Aqaba Marine Park. Formalities can be completed there and the marina has a good range of facilities set in an attractive environment.

RS • Southbound Routes

• | RS1 | Suez to Port Sudan | 585
• | RS2 | Port Sudan to Gulf of Aden | 586
• | RS3 | Port Sudan to Massawa | 587
• | RS4 | Massawa to Gulf of Aden | 588

With the exception of boats sailing to Southern Egypt or the Gulf of Aqaba for the Mediterranean winter, hardly any southbound passages are confined to the Red Sea and the time when they are undertaken is usually dictated by their final destination. In the former case, the end of the sailing season in the Mediterranean is as good as any other time of year to sail south as the prevailing northerly winds will ensure favourable conditions. The best time for the longer southbound passages depends on as many factors, if not more, as for a northbound voyage. The most pleasant time to head south is during the spring months, from February to April, when the weather is becoming warmer in the northern areas and it is not too hot in the southern section. At this time, favourable winds can be expected to last at least as far as the latitude of Port Sudan. From May onwards, favourable winds should blow for almost the entire length of the Red Sea. However, as the timing of the passage usually depends on future plans, the weather in the North Indian Ocean must be taken into account. A voyage during the earlier period is easier to plan as a spring passage would not face the risk of cyclones in the Arabian Sea before May.

RS Southbound routes

Eastbound passages across the North Indian Ocean are best planned for the SW monsoon, which blows from May to October and ensures the most favourable winds, although these can be very strong at the height of the monsoon in July and August when a high proportion reach gale force. For this reason, and also because of the unbearable heat, the summer months in the Red Sea are best avoided. Therefore, the best time for a southbound passage in the Red Sea is during the NE monsoon. For planning purposes, the periods to avoid in the Arabian Sea are September to December, and April to July, although cyclones that occur during July and August are usually of low intensity. In the Bay of Bengal, the critical periods to avoid are April to June and October to December.

The safety situation in the countries bordering on the Red Sea should be ascertained before committing to a voyage through this critical area.

• RS1 Suez to Port Sudan

BEST TIME: | February to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Red Sea Pilot. |  |  |  |
WAYPOI NTS : |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Suez X 29°56.0’N, 32°32.4’E | Suez S 29°38.5’N, 32°33.5’E | Gubal S 27°30.5’N, 34°9.5’E |  |  |
|  | Hurghada E | Hurghada NE | Hurghada X | 193
|  | 27°16.0’N, 34°0.0’E | 27°17.0’N, 33°52.5’E | 27°15.2’N, 33°51.4’E |
|  |  | Safaga NE | Safaga X | 225
|  |  | 26°44.5’N, 34°08.0’E | 26°41.6’N, 33°59.6’E |
|  | Brothers W | Port Ghalib E | Port Ghalib X | 307
|  | 26°18.0’N, 34°42.5’E Daedalus Reef W 24°55.0’N, 35°49.0’E Zabargad E 23°37.0’N, 36°24.0’E Angarosh E 20°54.0’N, 37°35.5’E | 25°36.0’N, 34°54.0’E | 25°32.0’N, 34°38.4’E |
|  | Port Sudan NE | Port Sudan E | Port Sudan | 703
|  | 19°44.0’N, 37°34.5’E | 19°36.0’N, 37°17.0’E | 19°36.5’N, 37°13.8’E |

Because favourable winds are much more likely to be encountered on southbound passages, most boats cover as much as possible of the Red Sea in long offshore legs and, in contrast to northbound boats, coastal hopping is less common. Traffic separation lanes are in operation for the entire length of the Gulf of Suez, and sailing boats normally fare better by keeping away from the traffic by favouring the east side of the narrow gulf. At the southern end of the Gulf of Suez, several miles can be saved by sailing through either the Zeit or Tawila Channels, which lead to Hurghada. Several marinas operate in the area and services and repair facilities are generally good. Some of the major ports along the entire length of this route are listed, where stops can be made, either for provisions or in an emergency. If an inshore passage is preferred south of Foul Bay, a convenient place to go behind the reefs is at Ras Hadarba, close to the border between Egypt and Sudan. The entire distance from there to Port Sudan can be covered mostly in sheltered waters where safe anchorages are easily found every night.

From Suez Bay, a course should be sailed that runs along the axis of the Gulf of Suez, or, as suggested, just east of it, as far as Ras Shukeir. This first section is the most difficult because of the heavy traffic and also the oil platforms that are to be found everywhere in the Gulf of Suez, some of those no longer in use nor marked by lights. Having reached the northern entrance into the Strait of Gubal, the course is altered to pass east of Shaker Island.

Those who wish to stop at Hurghada should leave the main shipping route and continue south through the Tawila Channel. Hurghada is the main town and port south of the Gulf of Suez. To complete formalities, it is possible to come alongside the ferry dock or anchor in the vicinity. Formalities are complicated and lengthy and the services of a local agent are advisable. The alternative is to use either Hurghada Marina or El Gouna Marina further north, but they must be contacted in advance to make a reservation. Both marinas are convenient places to leave the boat to visit Luxor and other ancient sites on the Upper Nile.

Having exited the Strait of Gubal, the offshore route passes west of the Brothers, two prominent rocks that can be passed on either side. Then follows a long offshore leg to pass west of Daedalus Reef. Port Ghalib, the last port in Egypt where it is possible to stop, is located halfway between those two points. Port Ghalib Marina is an artificial harbour, part of a large tourist resort. Port control should be called two hours before arrival. The marina may assist with formalities but even for a short stop it may be necessary to use the services of a local agent.

The next point to pass on the offshore route is Gezirat Zabargad, a high rocky islet just north of the boundary between Sudan and Egypt. Having passed east of Angarosh Reef, boats bound for Port Sudan may leave the offshore route and make landfall east of Sanganeb Reef in the approaches to Port Sudan. Port control should be called on channel 16 or 14 before entering the port. Yachts are normally directed to the small-craft anchorage on the south side of the inner basin, opposite the container harbour. The services of a local agent must be employed to deal with the various authorities, and he will arrange to bring the officials to the boat. Facilities are very basic but provisioning is good. Fuel is easily available, but this must also be done via an agent, several of whom will approach the boat on arrival offering their services.

• RS2 Port Sudan to Gulf of Aden

BEST TIME: | February to May |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Red Sea Pilot. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Port Sudan 19°36.5’N, 37°13.8’E | Port Sudan SE 19°35.5’N, 37°15.5’E | Hindi Gider E 19°27.5’N, 38°04.0’E Masamirit E 18°52.0’N, 38°54.5’E Al Tair W 15°30.0’N, 41°44.0’E |  |  |
|  | Zubair SW | Hodaida N | Hodaida X | 458
|  | 14°58.0’N, 42°04.0’E | 14°58.0’N, 42°51.3’E | 14 °51.2’N, 42 °56.2’E |
|  | Zuqar NE 14°05.0’N, 42°51.0’E Bab el Mandeb NW 13°14.5’N, 43°02.5’E Bab el Mandeb S 12°33.0’N, 43°27.0’E |  |  |
|  | Bab el Mandeb SE |  |  |
|  | 12°18.0’N, 43°46.5’E |  |  |
|  | Djibouti N | Djibouti S | Djibouti | 658
|  | 11°48.0’N, 43°08.5’E | 11°36.2’N, 43°07.6’E | 11°36.3’N, 43°08.0’E |
|  | Aden SW 12°42.0’N, 44°55.5’E | Tarshayn W 12°46.5’N, 44°57.5’E | Aden 12 °47.5’N, 44 °58.0’E | 675

Boats leaving Port Sudan bound for Bab el Mandeb and the Indian Ocean may pick up the offshore route at Hindi Gider Light and continue south to pass east of Masamirit Island. The alternative is to take an inshore route as far as either Trinkitat or Khor Nawarat. From Trinkitat, the open sea is reached via a channel that leads due east through the reefs and islets of the Suakin group and reaches the open sea south of Masamirit Island. Those who continue as far as Khor Nawarat will pass south of all dangers of the Suakin group before setting a safe course as soon as open water is reached. The inshore route can be sailed as far as Massawa as outlined in RS3.

If the winds on leaving Port Sudan are favourable, the offshore route should be preferred. From Port Sudan, the initial course passes N of Hindi Gider Light and the various dangers to SW of it. The route turns south to join the offshore route at Masamirit Light. From that point, the route follows the axis of the Red Sea, passing halfway between Dahlak Bank, on the Eritrean side, and the Farasan Islands, on the Saudi side. The route continues in a SE direction to pass west of Jabal al Tair, a conspicuous island with a powerful light, which provides a useful point of reference. Two groups of islands lying south of it, the Zubair and Hanish Islands, offer shelter in heavy weather. Both island groups should be approached with caution as there are some offlying dangers. The Zubair Islands are best passed on their west side, while Jabal Zuqar and the Hanish Islands should be passed to the east, paying careful attention to the various rocks in their vicinity.

Boats intending to call at Hodeida, in Yemen, should leave the offshore route at the Zubair Islands and set a course for the landfall buoy north of Ras Kathib. This is the northern point of a long and narrow peninsula that has created a perfectly sheltered natural harbour in which the port of Hodeida occupies the southern extremity. A 10-mile-long buoyed channel leads into Hodeida, whose port control should be contacted on channel 16 to advise on ETA, name of vessel and other details before permission is given to proceed into the port. Provided the security situation warrants it, the Yemeni capital Sanaa can be reached overland from Hodeida.

Those who do not wish to interrupt their voyage should stay with the offshore route south of the Zubair Islands to the Abu Ail Channel, NE of Zuqar Island. From there, a new course is set for the northern approaches to the Strait of Bab el Mandeb. Because of a traffic separation zone in the strait, southbound boats should keep to the west side of the strait. Having reached the Gulf of Aden, there is a choice of ports between Djibouti, to the south, and Aden, to the north. Boats bound for the former should set a course to pass west of the Musha Islands and approach the port of Djibouti from the north. A marked channel leads into the port of Djibouti. On arrival, boats normally anchor in the area close to the former yacht club. The various authorities are in the nearby commercial harbour and must be visited to complete entry formalities.

Boats bound for Aden will be the first to peel off this route to head for that busy harbour. Aden port control should be called on channel 16 before entering the buoyed channel. Visiting yachts are normally directed to the anchorage west of the customs wharf.

• RS3 Port Sudan to Massawa

BEST TIME: | February to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Red Sea Pilot. |  |  |  |
WAYPOI NTS : |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Port Sudan 19°36.5’N, 37°13.8’E | Port Sudan SE 19°35.5’N, 37°15.5’E | Hindi Gider E 19°27.5’N, 38°04.0’E Masamirit E 18°52.0’N, 38°54.5’E Masamirit S 18°30.0’N, 38°57.5’E North Channel N 16°37.0’N, 39°14.5’E |  |  |
|  | North Channel S | Massawa NE | Massawa X | 307
|  | 15°54.0’N, 39°27.0’E | 15°38.5’N, 39°30.5’E | 15°36.7’N, 39°28.3’E |

The long passage to the Gulf of Aden can be interrupted in Eritrea, where cruising boats are welcome. The main port of Massawa has basic facilities and visiting boats must proceed there immediately for clearance. A sheltered inshore route can be sailed from Port Sudan, but as stopping anywhere in Eritrea is prohibited unless one has cleared in at Massawa, the offshore route may be preferable.

From Port Sudan, the inshore route follows the Sudanese coast closely by staying in sheltered waters west of the Suakin Islands. The port that gave them the name used to be a major trading centre between the Orient, East Africa and the Mediterranean. The once prosperous city is now in ruins, but it is still easy to imagine its former splendour. Those who wish to continue offshore before entering Eritrean waters can reach the open sea at either Trinkitat or Khor Nawarat.

Massawa is reached through the North Channel, which winds its way between a number of islands and reefs. Having left the offshore route, a course should be steered towards Difnein Islet, which is marked by a light. The inshore route follows a deep channel between the mainland and Harat Island. Having passed west of Sheikh el Abu Islet, landfall is made in the outer approaches to Massawa. Boats are not permitted to stop anywhere in Eritrea before having cleared in at Massawa and therefore the inshore route should be timed to be sailed in daylight.

Massawa port control should be called on channel 16 when near the entrance into the harbour. Yachts are normally directed to tie up at the quay as anchoring before formalities are completed is not allowed. Shore passes need to be obtained from immigration. The process for obtaining the compulsory cruising permit to visit the offshore Dahlak Islands is complicated and may entail a trip to the capital Asmara.

• RS4 Massawa to Gulf of Aden

BEST TIME: | February to April |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4071, US 71 |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDE: | Red Sea Pilot. |  |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Massawa X | Massawa E | South Channel N |  |  |
15°36.7’N, 39°28.3’E | 15°40.0’N, 39°39.5’E | 15°32.6’N, 39°57.3’E |  |  |
|  | South Channel S 14°47.0’N, 41°15.0’E Hanish NW 13°43.5’N, 42°27.0’E Bab el Mandeb NW 13°14.5’N, 43°02.5’E Bab el Mandeb S 12°33.0’N, 43°27.0’E |  |  |
|  | Bab el Mandeb SE |  |  |
|  | 12°18.0’N, 43°46.5’E |  |  |
|  | Djibouti N 11°48.0’N, 43°08.5’E | Djibouti S 11°36.2’N, 43°07.6’E | Djibouti 11°36.3’N, 43°08.0’E | 389
|  | Aden SW 12°42.0’N, 44°55.5’E | Tarshayn W 12°46.5’N, 44°57.5’E | Aden 12 °47.5’N, 44 °58.0’E | 407

The port of Massawa is left through the South Channel, and the offshore route is joined NW of the Hanish Islands. The southbound shipping lane passing west of the islands should be taken to the north entrance into the Bab el Mandeb Strait. Having reached the Gulf of Aden, the two nearest destinations are Aden and Djibouti, which are described in detail in RS2.

WINDS AND CURRENTS OF THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA

The Mediterranean climate is generally pleasant, marked by long hot summers and mild winters. Most gales and rain occur in winter months, few storms interrupting the long summer. Local conditions vary considerably, stronger winds and squalls often resulting from local phenomena and not due to the overall weather pattern. Tropical storms do not affect this region.

The Mediterranean can be divided into two halves, western and eastern, corresponding to the two deeper basins that are separated by a ridge, running through Italy, Sicily and Malta to the African coast. In summer the Western Mediterranean comes under the influence of the Atlantic high-pressure area centred near the Azores, while the Eastern Mediterranean is influenced by the low-pressure area east of the Mediterranean, which is an extension of the Indian Ocean monsoon. As a rule, weather systems move across the Mediterranean from west to east and this is particularly true of depressions in the winter months. The commonest winds over the entire area are from the northern sector, more from the NW in the western basin, N in the Aegean and NE in the eastern part. Well chronicled down the centuries are the various regional winds, which are a notable feature of Mediterranean weather.

Close to the coast the weather is greatly affected by the height of the land and other topographical features. Local conditions vary enormously, any prevailing wind usually being lighter near the coast, while land and sea breezes have a strong effect. The land and sea breezes are particularly noticeable in summer months and reach 20 to 30 knots in some places. The direction of the wind changes not only with the time of day, but also with the orientation of the coast. A reversal in the direction of the wind usually occurs between early morning and late afternoon. Local squalls are more frequent where the coast is mountainous and the wind is frequently accelerated down valleys or between islands. These effects are particularly true for high islands and should be borne in mind when anchoring in the lee of such valleys, particularly in Greece in the meltemi season.

The mistral

Magistralis, meaning ‘masterful’, was the name originally given to the cold dry NW wind that holds masterly sway over the Western Mediterranean in both frequency and strength. Now corrupted to mistral or maestral, these NW winds are formed when cold air flowing down over France is blocked by the heights of the Alps and is diverted to pour into the Mediterranean via the Rhône Valley. In summer, the mistral is often strengthened by the area of low pressure that forms over North Africa. The mistral blows strongly in the Gulf of Lion and the Gulf of Genoa, while the Rhône Delta area and Marseille receive the full force of the mistral on almost 100 days a year. Blowing on average at 20 knots, the mistral is frequently stronger and can reach 50 to 60 knots. The mistral often reaches the Balearics and Sardinia and occasionally can be felt as far as Malta and North Africa. The French Riviera east of Saint Raphaël is sheltered by the mountains behind the coast and the mistral is felt less there.

The mistral blows at intervals throughout the year, although it is commonest in winter, normally lasting from three to six days, and is typified by clear skies. Along the Spanish coast this NW wind is called the tramontana, and is strong, dry and very cold in winter.

Vendavales

These are strong SW winds which blow between North Africa and the Spanish coast, especially in the late autumn and early spring. These winds, which do not last long, can reach gale force and are associated with depressions moving across Spain and Southern France. The vendavales are associated with squalls and thunderstorms, but are less strong near the African coast and the NE coast of Spain. They are much stronger when funnelled through the Strait of Gibraltar. When they hit the west coast of Sardinia and the Gulf of Genoa, these strong SW winds are called libeccio in Italian.

Sirocco

In general usage, this name is used to describe any winds from the south bringing hot air off the continent of Africa. Due to depressions moving east across the Sahara Desert, the sirocco blows off the north coast of Africa very hot and dry, often laden with sand and dust, thus reducing visibility. As these winds pass across the sea, they pick up some moisture, and so in Spain, Malta, Sicily, Sardinia and Southern Italy the sirocco arrives at a lower temperature and with a higher humidity than off the African coast. Rain falling through the dust carried by these winds can sometimes be red or brown.

A similar wind blows off the Arabian Peninsula to affect Israel, Lebanon, Cyprus, Crete and other southern islands in the Eastern Mediterranean, particularly in the transitional periods between seasons, from April to June and September to October. In Egypt, the sirocco is called the khamsin, which means ‘50’ in Arabic, because it occurs most frequently in the 50 days following the Coptic Easter. It usually blows at gale force for about one day and is most common from February to April. In May and June the khamsin is less frequent but can last longer.

Levante

These NE winds blow near the Spanish coast, reaching gale force in spring (February to May) and autumn (October to December). In the summer months from June to September, the levante is shorter and has less strength. The levante is formed when a depression is situated between the Balearics and North Africa, usually when there is a high-pressure area over the European landmass to the north.

The levante is most common along the Spanish coast and can continue into the Strait of Gibraltar, where it is funnelled to become easterly and is known as levanter. The levante brings lower temperatures and rain, which is often heavy near the coast, while the long fetch produces heavy seas.

Gregale

These strong winds, also from the NE, are felt in the Central Mediterranean, on the coasts of Sicily, Malta and especially in the Ionian Sea. They flow out of high-pressure areas situated over the Balkans and are common in the winter months, especially in February. These winds usually blow at gale force, are cold and produce a heavy swell. The NE coast of Malta is particularly vulnerable as the main harbours are open to the NE. It was a gregale that wrecked St Paul on the Maltese coast in the first century CE.

Meltemi

This wind is more commonly known by its Turkish name meltemi than as the etesian wind, which is taken from the Greek word meaning ‘annual’. These regular winds blow steadily over the eastern basin of the Mediterranean all summer, commencing in May or early June and continuing until September or even October. The meltemi is at its strongest and steadiest in July and August. Even when the meltemi is not blowing, or while it is being established in the earlier months, it is rare to get winds from any other direction during this time. Periods of calm can often occur at the beginning of the season. The meltemi has many similarities with a monsoon and can be regarded as an extension of the Indian monsoon caused by the low-pressure area east of the Mediterranean.

The meltemi blows from the north in the Central Aegean, tending to be more NE in the Northern Aegean and NW in the southern areas, extending across the whole eastern basin, although it peters out before reaching the southern shores of the Mediterranean. The meltemi is a fresh wind, on average 15 to 20 knots, and is associated with fine clear weather. Often it reaches up to 30 knots, especially in the afternoons, and occasionally it reaches 40 knots. It is less strong in the most northerly areas and strongest in the S and SW Aegean. The meltemi tends to decrease at night.

Western Mediterranean

The summers are fine with few storms. Gale force winds do occur, but these are often generated by local depressions over a limited area. Because of this they are difficult to predict and give little warning of their onset, as an impending gale is rarely preceded by a meaningful change in barometric pressure. Strong winds such as the sirocco, vendavales or levante are more common in the transitional months of spring and autumn. The mistral can blow in summer but is less frequent than at other times of the year. The commonest wind over this area is from the NW, except in the most southerly areas near the African coast, where winds from the E and NE are more frequent. There can be calm periods for several days at a time. There is little rain over this area in summer, except for occasional thunderstorms near some of the coasts.

In winter, winds are much more variable and gales more frequent. Depressions from the Atlantic track in from the west, either across France or Spain or through the Strait of Gibraltar. Also, some local depressions form in the Gulf of Lion or the Gulf of Genoa and track to the south, bringing strong winds and squally weather. The mistral gales are more frequent in winter months. The vendavales and libeccio blow especially in late autumn and early spring. In spite of the increased frequency of gales in winter, there are also some quiet periods. Winter temperatures are mild, there are frequent sunny days and most rain falls as showers.

Eastern Mediterranean

The summers are dominated by the seasonal winds from the northern quarter, which blow strongly but are associated with clear skies and fine weather. Rainfall is scant and almost non-existent on the southern shores. The climate of the eastern basin is more continental than the western or central areas, which means fewer fronts, less rain and a lower humidity. It is noted for long hot summers and short winters. Most of the rain falls in winter.

In winter, depressions track in an easterly direction either SE towards Cyprus or NE towards the Black Sea. Although small in size, these depressions can be very violent as they develop rapidly and with little warning. Some violent storms in this area are dangerous as they are local in character, arriving quickly out of a clear sky. Although winds from the northerly sector are commonest in winter too, winds from other directions do occur and there are strong gale force winds particularly from the south. Both S and N winds are more prolonged than E or W winds. November to February are the worst months with cold dry N to NE gales and warm moist SE to SW gales. When a depression passes there can be a change from S to N within a few hours. At the transitional period between seasons, such as in April and May, calms can occur for several days.

Currents

The Mediterranean loses more water by evaporation than it receives from rivers emptying into it, so there is a general inflow of water from the Atlantic Ocean at all times of the year. This east-setting current is strongest through the Strait of Gibraltar and along the North African coast, where it averages around 2 knots. After passing through the channel between Sicily and Tunisia it gradually loses its strength as it flows eastward. There is a weaker anticlockwise circulation in both of the two basins of the Mediterranean joined by an east-setting current in the Malta Channel. In the western basin, this current flows north up the west coast of Italy. It turns west along the south coast of France and continues south down the Spanish coast. In the eastern basin, the east-setting current turns north along the coast of Israel and Lebanon, west along the Turkish coast, and completes the circle along the northern coast of Crete. A branch makes an anticlockwise circulation of the Aegean Sea, being joined in its southward movement by water flowing out of the Black Sea and into the Mediterranean via the Bosporus and Dardanelles. Another branch makes an anticlockwise circulation of the Adriatic.

With the exception of the steady current along the North African coast, the actual currents are very variable and are affected considerably both by the direction and force of the wind and local conditions. For example, when the meltemi is blowing, a south to southwest-setting current predominates in the Central and Western Aegean. The strongest currents are experienced in the Strait of Gibraltar, the Bosporus and the Dardanelles. Other straits, such as the Messina Strait, are strongly affected by tidal currents.

Tsunamis

This is a phenomenon that has been known in the Mediterranean for a very long time. The ancient Greek historian Thucydides suggested in the 5th century BCE that tsunamis were related to submarine earthquakes. It is indeed believed that the Minoan civilisation, that flourished on the island of Crete, was destroyed in about 1600 BCE by a gigantic wave produced by a volcanic eruption on the island of Thira, about 70 miles north of Crete. Tsunamis have occurred in the Mediterranean throughout history, the most recent in October 2020 when a magnitude 7.0 earthquake triggered a tsunami that inundated the Greek islands of Ikaria, Kos, Chios, and Samos, as well coastal areas of Greece and Turkey.

Climate change

In recent years the Mediterranean has experienced violent revolving storms similar to Atlantic hurricanes and known as a ‘medicane’. These powerful storms usually happen during the months of September and October, when sea surface temperatures in the Mediterranean are still quite warm, although they can occur at any time of year. As a result of climate change, warmer sea surface temperatures in the Mediterranean can allow storms to take on tropical characteristics, increasing the wind speeds, making the storms more intense and bring heavy rainfalls.

Medicane Ianos occurred on 18 September 2020 with winds of over 60 knots. Similar storms in 2018 and 2019 struck Greece and Egypt, each releasing several months’ worth of rain and resulting in landslides and flooding.

ROUTES IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA

Sailing conditions in the Mediterranean have been reviled and ridiculed by modern sailors more than in any other part of the world and the most repeated saying is that ‘in the Mediterranean you either get too much wind or none at all, and what you get is on the nose’. Fortunately this is not always true, and although the winds encountered in this inland sea cannot be compared in constancy to the trade winds of the Caribbean, Atlantic or Pacific Oceans, most offshore passages can be made under sail. The Mediterranean has been plied for many centuries by all kinds of wind-driven craft and some of the voyages of ancient times have become legend. Being aware of the capricious nature of Mediterranean winds, ships used to be provided with a set of sturdy oars, which were certainly more eco-friendly than polluting diesel engines.

Because of its long maritime history, the weather of the Mediterranean is well known and this simplifies the task for those intending to do some forward planning. As the sailing season stretches over almost eight months, from late March to early November, a lot of ground can be covered if an early start is made. This will benefit those planning to make an eastbound passage in spring, when westerly winds are more common, and a westbound passage in autumn, when there is a higher proportion of easterly winds. However, because weather patterns in the Mediterranean are less clearly defined than in other parts of the world, a ‘best time’ to make a particular passage is far less accurate than elsewhere. With a few exceptions, the weather can rarely be regarded as dangerous in the Mediterranean and the most violent storms usually occur in winter, January and February being the worst months.

The Mediterranean is criss-crossed by innumerable routes, far too many to be dealt with in this book. Also, most of these routes involve a certain amount of coastal cruising and so can hardly be described as offshore routes. Finally, the multitude of good harbours and marinas throughout the Mediterranean coupled with the unparalleled richness and variety of places to visit ashore means that most sailors prefer coastal cruising. In consequence, this chapter deals only with the most frequented offshore routes. As this book is aimed primarily at offshore sailors the routes described and suggestions made are meant for sailors who are not normally based in the Mediterranean and for whom the Mediterranean is only part of a longer voyage.

There are two principal gateways into the Mediterranean, Gibraltar being used mainly by sailors arriving from Northern Europe and America, while Port Said witnesses the arrival of sailors who have reached the Mediterranean through the Red Sea and Suez Canal. The latter may be European sailors returning home at the completion of a world voyage, or sailors from other continents undertaking a world voyage. Most of these sailors arrive in the Mediterranean determined to see and do as much as possible in the shortest time possible, which may not be as easy as it first appears. The Mediterranean has been described as the cradle of western civilisation and, whether one agrees with that description or not, there is certainly no other region of the world that offers so much to see in such a concentrated area, from archaeological sites to medieval cities, beautiful islands and stunning scenery. So the main danger is trying to cover too much ground in one season and ending up seeing much less than planned. Also, the Mediterranean is not the small lake it appears and the distance between Gibraltar and the Suez Canal is almost twice that between the Lesser Antilles and the Panama Canal.

Windgrams showing a summary of wind conditions along some popular cruising routes

Port Said to Malta, April
Palma de Mallorca to Gibraltar, August
Gibraltar to Malta, May
NW Aegean to Rhodes, July

The Adriatic Sea

CRUISING GUIDES: Adriatic Pilot, Ionian, Croatia Cruising Companion, Ionian Cruising Companion.

The Adriatic Sea includes some of the most attractive cruising grounds in Europe and in recent years has seen a larger increase in the number of pleasure craft, whether local, foreign owned or charter, than any other part of the Mediterranean Basin. As a result, docking and repair facilities have improved considerably. All former Yugoslav countries bordering on the Adriatic, Slovenia, Croatia and Montenegro, depend greatly on tourism and cruising yachts are welcome everywhere. Albania is also going that same way. Compared to the diversity of Croatia, the east coast of Italy may appear to have less to offer, but there is nothing anywhere in the world to equal the thrill of arriving on your own boat in the heart of Venice.

Because of its configuration and other specific factors, weather conditions in the Adriatic Sea tend to be very localised. The most dangerous wind is the bora, a violent northerly wind that occurs mostly in winter. There is a north-setting current along the eastern shore that can be used to advantage when making northbound passages. It is generally advisable to favour the eastern shore when bound in either direction, because of the availability of sheltered anchorages.

The Aegean Sea

CRUISING GUIDES: Greek Waters Pilot, East Aegean, West Aegean, West Aegean Cruising Companion, Turkish Waters and Cyprus Pilot.

The islands of the Grecian Archipelago and the Turkish coast of Asia Minor offer a great variety of cruising opportunities and this is reflected in the large number of sailing boats that ply the Aegean each summer. Navigation rarely presents any real problems, there are countless safe harbours and anchorages, all dangers are clearly marked on charts, and even the traditional rivalry between Greece and Turkey affects visiting sailors only in a tangential way.

Ideally, the Aegean should be cruised from north to south, and because of the prevailing northerly winds of summer it is recommended to arrive in the Northern Aegean by late May or early June so as to benefit from favourable winds for the following three months. The ever increasing popularity of these cruising grounds makes most ports very crowded during the peak holiday months of July and August, when more secluded anchorages should be sought out. As the safe cruising season extends from April till late October it is advisable to visit the more popular areas either before or after the great summer invasion. This may also be the time to visit some of the adjacent areas, such as Istanbul or the Black Sea.

The most important feature that dominates the entire Aegean Sea is the northerly wind that blows throughout the summer. Known by its Turkish name of meltemi, it can be a great bonus when sailing south, but a considerable impediment when attempting to sail against it. When the meltemi is blowing strongly offshore, violent gusts often occur in the lee of high ground. Accelerated down the land, this can produce sudden gusts of 40 knots or more in an area of previously light winds. This effect occurs particularly on steep southern coasts, both of islands and the mainland. The meltemi is also funnelled through straits and ravines, and between islands. When sheltering on a south coast during a spell of strong meltemi this effect should be allowed for.

The Marmara and Black Seas

CRUISING GUIDES: Cruising Bulgaria and Romania, The Black Sea.

In recent years, interest in sailing has seen an unprecedented increase in popularity in all countries in this area. The number of locally owned yachts has surged and so has the improvement in facilities, with marinas now operating in all major centres. Most visiting yachts arrive from the south, island hopping through the Aegean. Every year, a few intrepid sailors arrive in the Black Sea by way of the Danube, which is linked to the Rhine as part of a waterway system that is navigable from the North Sea right across Europe. Because of height restrictions, sailing boats can only do it with the mast down.

The northbound passage through the Aegean should be undertaken in spring, before the onset of the meltemi, when winds are either light or non-existent and one must be prepared to motor. Because of the strong outflowing current in the Dardanelles, tacking against a NE wind is hard, the task being made even more difficult by the large amount of shipping. A weak countercurrent is usually felt on the European side of the strait, which should be favoured as far as Chanakkale, where it is compulsory to cross to the Asian side to clear into Turkey. The rest of the Dardanelles and the crossing of the Sea of Marmara are best done in daily stages, both because of the amount of shipping and the absence of wind at night. Passing through Istanbul and the Bosporus should only be attempted in daylight and the European side of the strait should be favoured where a weaker countercurrent will be found. A thick haze often occurs on summer mornings, which makes navigation very difficult due to the busy traffic.

Until not so long ago, cruising in the Black Sea used to be limited to a few Turkish ports and the designated ports of entry of the other countries: Bulgaria, Romania and the Soviet Union. The fall of communism has brought about an opening up of all those countries. Bulgaria, Romania and Georgia are now welcoming cruising yachts, but Ukraine is going through an uncertain period after Crimea joined the Russian Federation. In 2015 hostilities broke out between Ukraine and secessionist forces allied with Russia. Formalities for visiting yachts in Russia itself are almost as drastic as during its Soviet past.

The Black Sea enjoys a similar climate to the Mediterranean in summer, being mainly fine and sunny. The winds are predominantly from NW or W and are generated by the same system as the meltemi. In winter, the weather is much colder, especially in more northerly parts where ice can occur. Variable conditions prevail in the transition months, April to May and September to October, the winds changing quickly both in force and direction. Local effects as well as land and sea breezes are well marked. In the Dardanelles and Bosporus, NE winds are the most frequent as there is a general airflow from the Black Sea into the Aegean. If the wind is not blowing from the NE in these narrows it comes usually from the opposite SW direction.

Eastbound routes in the Mediterranean Sea

• | ME1 | Gibraltar to Port Said via Malta | 596
• | ME2 | Gibraltar to Port Said via Messina Strait | 597

Most boats arriving in the Mediterranean through the Strait of Gibraltar leave the same way, so a roughly circular route has certain advantages. The main decision to be made is whether this should be done in a clockwise or anticlockwise direction, the former alternative being more common. In such a case, some of the ports in Southern Spain will be visited first. The next stop will be the Balearics, from where it is but a short leg to the French Riviera. Corsica and Sardinia can be visited next, and possibly some of the Italian mainland before negotiating the Messina Strait. Before crossing the Ionian Sea to Greece, some time can be spent exploring Sicily. The one major detour that may be considered at this stage is a side trip into the Adriatic where Croatia offers some of the most attractive cruising grounds in the Mediterranean. Because the prevailing summer winds in Greece are northerly, it may be better to use the Corinth Canal to reach the Aegean. Alternatively, a route can be taken that goes south of the Peloponnese. The Aegean Sea has so much to offer, both the Greek mainland and islands and the Turkish coast of Asia Minor, that an entire season could be easily spent there. Another detour can be considered here: the Sea of Marmara, the Bosporus and the Black Sea.

Romania and Georgia are now welcoming cruising yachts, but Ukraine is going through an uncertain period after Crimea joined the Russian Federation in 2014. In 2015 hostilities broke out between Ukraine and secessionist forces allied with Russia. The situation continues to be uncertain. Formalities for visiting yachts in Russia itself are almost as drastic as during the Soviet era.

Those who decide to continue into the Eastern Mediterranean will have the south coast of Turkey to explore, as well as Cyprus, Israel and Lebanon. The Mediterranean coast of Egypt offers very few cruising opportunities and is mostly visited by boats bound for the Suez Canal on their way to the Red Sea.

Those who arrive in the Mediterranean planning to spend only one season are faced by a serious challenge in choosing what to see in the short time available. Arriving in Gibraltar in early summer, whether from Northern Europe or America, will be a certain disadvantage as the sailing season will be well advanced by then. For such late starters it is important to get as quickly as possible to the furthest point on their planned itinerary. As one can never be completely sure what kind of winds to expect, it is wise to cover as many miles as possible early on so as to have time in hand for the rest of the cruise. Such a tactic is particularly important for those who wish to cruise in the Aegean, in which case they should sail to Northern Greece with as few stops as possible so as to arrive there before the onset of the strong northerly winds of summer. These winds will then ensure favourable sailing conditions while exploring the delights of the Aegean Sea, whether among the Greek islands or on the Turkish mainland.

For those who arrive without such time limitations the following routes will outline a number of alternatives and suggested detours. The waypoints listed are only for guidance and not to be used for navigation. Similarly, the coordinates of suggested ports of call close to the route are only given for reference purposes.

ME Eastbound routes in the Mediterranean Sea

• ME1 Gibraltar to Port Said via Malta

BEST TIME: | May to September |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4300, US 301, 302 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | Mediterranean Voyages |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | North Africa, Islas Baleares, Italian Waters Pilot. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Gibraltar X | Europa Point | Spain S |  | Almeria X | 188
36°07.5’N, 5°23.0’W | 36°05.0’N, 5°20.5’W | 36°35.0’N, 2°04.0’W |  | 36°49.7’N, 2°27.7’W |
|  | Balearics SW |  | Palma de Mallorca X | 373
|  | 38°21.0’N, 1°17.0’E |  | 39°34.0’N, 2°38.0’E |
|  | Sardinia S |  | Cagliari X | 688
|  | 38°35.0’N, 9°14.0’E |  | 39°12.0’N, 9°06.0’E |
|  | Sicily SW |  | Tunis X | 848
|  | 37°38.0’N, 11°30.0’E |  | 36°48.7’N, 10°17.0’E |
|  | Malta NE |  | Valletta X | 954
|  | 35°57.0’N, 14°34.0’E |  | 35°54.2’N, 14°30.7’E |
|  | [Crete NW |  | Chania X | 1445
|  | 34°45.0’N, 23°27.0’E |  | 35°31.3’N, 24°01.8’E |
|  | Crete NE] |  |  |
|  | 35°25.0’N, 26°32.0’E |  |  |
|  | Port Said N |  | Port Said X | 1768
|  | 31°37.0’N, 32°19.0’E |  |  |

Gibraltar is an excellent place in which to prepare for an eastbound passage, with good facilities at the two marinas. There is a choice of routes to reach the Eastern Mediterranean by going either north or south of Sicily. If the destination is the Ionian Sea, or parts of Greece that are more easily reached through the Corinth Canal, it is better to sail north of Sicily and through the Messina Strait. Otherwise, a southern route, which possibly calls at Malta, is to be favoured if the destination is Crete, Cyprus or Port Said. The direct southern route to the Suez Canal is described here, whereas the northern, more cruising, alternative is outlined in the following pages.

With the Strait of Gibraltar safely behind them, eastbound boats have a much easier task when leaving Gibraltar than boats setting off in the opposite direction. The only time when one should not consider leaving Gibraltar is during strong easterly winds. Generally, winds tend to be funnelled either west or east in the strait. At Gibraltar, westerly winds predominate in winter and easterlies in summer. The latter are more frequent from July to October and can blow for up to two weeks at a time, although not always too strongly, their average strength being around 15 knots. Winter easterlies do not last so long but are stronger, bringing rain, clouds and haze.

From Europa Point the recommended route runs parallel to the Spanish coast keeping at least 20 miles offshore where steadier winds will be found. Along the entire length of the Spanish coast there are several good harbours in which shelter can be sought in bad weather. A favourable east-setting current is felt at least as far as Cabo de Gata. It is at that point that boats bound for the Balearics will alter course for NE, whereas the direct route continues east, passing south of Sardinia.

Those who have decided to make the detour to the Balearics and intend to sail directly to Palma de Mallorca should set a course that passes east of Formentera. There are several marinas in Palma and the most convenient, nearest to the town centre, is run by the Real Club Nautico, located in Darsena San Pedro, in the eastern part of the port. The club monitors channels 9 and 77. Arriving yachts should go to the reception dock to be assigned a berth. Formalities are completed at the marina. Services and repair facilities in Palma de Mallorca are among the best in the Mediterranean.

The Balearics are a convenient point to extend this detour to either France or Corsica. Otherwise, from Cabo de Gata a course can be set to pass halfway between North Africa and Sardinia. Two detours can be made at this stage, with the Sardinian capital Cagliari being the shorter detour. Several marinas are located within a short distance and provide better docking than the busy port of Cagliari, where visiting yachts may find space in the inner harbour.

The alternative is to turn south and make landfall at Cape Carthage, in the approaches to the Tunisian capital. The nearest marina is at Sidi Bou Said, which is a good base from which to visit both the nearby capital and some of the interior of this interesting country.

The final leg to Malta is sailed through the Sicily Channel north of the island of Pantelleria and also Gozo. Landfall is made north of the Maltese capital, where Valletta port control should be contacted on channel 12 or 16 before proceeding into the harbour. During office hours, visitors are normally directed to the reception dock in Msida Marina. Outside office hours, clearance is completed in the commercial port, Grand Harbour. Due to its strategic location, Malta has been for many years an active sailing centre, with facilities to match.

On leaving Malta, there are two options for the continuation of this voyage. A detour to the north will provide the opportunity to visit at least the southern part of the Aegean Sea, whereas those short of time can sail nonstop to Egypt. The direct route makes landfall at the northern extremity of the shipping channel leading into Port Said. The cluster of ships at anchor is usually the first indication of the approaches to Port Said. The approach channel to Port Said extends far offshore and is well marked by buoys. Because of the high density of shipping, continuous traffic and the difficult approach to Port Said, the harbour should not be entered at night.

A pilot is required to proceed into Port Said, and contacting a local agent in advance greatly simplifies matters. The agent should be contacted on arrival and he will obtain permission from the port captain for the boat to move directly to Port Fouad Yacht Club. Arrangements must then be made on channel 12 to meet the pilot. The club is located on the east side of the harbour and is a convenient base not only to prepare for the transit but also to visit Cairo. See here for details on transiting the Suez Canal.

The route from Malta to the Aegean via Crete makes landfall west of that island. Starting a summer cruise in the Aegean Sea from that direction is not advisable on account of the strong northerly winds, hence the option of a passage through the Corinth Canal outlined in route ME2. The attraction of this detour is that it provides the opportunity of a cruise along the northern shores of Crete. Close by is the old Venetian city of Chania, and further along, near the capital Iraklion, the remains of Knossos, the eternal symbol of Minoan civilisation.

An alternative and less travelled eastbound route from Gibraltar follows the African coast, where there is a large choice of destinations, from the small Spanish possessions of Ceuta and Melilla all the way to Tunisia. The initial route passes south of Alboran Island and stays close to the North African coast to benefit from the favourable east-setting current. If the intention is to call at either Melilla or Sidi Fredj, in Algeria, a course should be set for Cape Tres Forcas. Sidi Fredj is a tourist resort situated west of the Algerian capital with a marina and some basic facilities. Continuing east, the nearest Tunisian port is Tabarka, close to the border with Algeria. Tabarka Marina has a good range of facilities and is a convenient place to enter Tunisia. The offshore route to Malta can be rejoined after another possible stop on the north coast of Tunisia such as Bizerte.

• ME2 Gibraltar to Port Said via Messina Strait

BEST TIME: | May to September |  |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4300, US 301, 302 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | Mediterranean Voyages |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Islas Baleares, Italian Waters Pilot, Greek Waters Pilot, Ionian, Ionian Cruising Companion, West Aegean,West Aegean CruisingCompanion, Turkish Waters and Cyprus Pilot.
WAYPOINTS: Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Gibraltar X 36°07.5’N, 5°23.0’W | Europa Point 36°05.0’N, 5°20.5’W | Spain S 36°35.0’N, 2°04.0’W |  | Almeria X 36°49.7’N, 2°27.7’W | 188
|  | Balearics SW 38°21.0’N, 1°17.0’E |  | Palma de Mallorca X 39°34.0’N, 2°38.0’E | 373
|  | Sardinia S 38°35.0’N, 9°14.0’E |  | Cagliari X 39°12.0’N, 9°06.0’E | 688
|  | Sicily N 38°20.0’N, 13°18.0’E |  | Palermo X 38°08.0’N, 13°22.0’E | 854
|  | Messina N |  | Reggio di Calabria X | 968
|  | 38°21.0’N, 15°41.0’E |  | 38°07.6’N, 15°39.0’E |
|  | Messina S |  |  |
|  | 37°56.0’N, 15°33.0’E |  |  |
|  | Italy SE |  | Corfu X | 1215
|  | 37°50.0’N, 16°08.0’E |  | 39°37.0’N, 19°55.6’E |
|  | Ionian E |  | Zakynthos X | 1240
|  | 37°59.0’N, 20°41.0’E |  | 37°46.9’N, 20°54.0’E |
|  | Corinth Canal NW |  |  |
|  | 37°57.2’N, 22°57.5’E |  |  |
|  | Corinth Canal SE |  |  |
|  | 37°55.0’N, 23°00.6’E |  |  |
|  | Aegean NW |  | Lavrion X | 1395
|  | 37°34.0’N, 24°02.0’E |  | 37°41.8’N, 24°03.7’E |
|  | Aegean SE |  | Rhodes X | 1601
|  | 36°31.0’N, 28°12.0’E |  | 36°27.0’N, 28°13.5’E |
|  | Turkey SW |  | Marmaris X | 1624
|  | 36°36.0’N, 28°24.0’E |  | 36°51.0’N, 28°16.5’E |
|  | Cyprus SW |  | Paphos X | 1842
|  | 34°39.0’N, 31°44.0’E |  | 34 °45.3’N, 32 °24.5’E |
|  | Port Said N |  | Port Said X | 2014
|  | 31°37.0’N, 32°19.0’E |  | 31°15.5.’N, 32°19.0’E |

This route may appeal to those who are bound for cruising destinations in the Ionian, Adriatic or Aegean Seas, and prefer to get there by way of the Messina Strait. Directions for this route are the same as far as Sardinia as for route ME1. From that point, boats bound for the Messina Strait should set a course to make landfall off Cape Gallo, in the approaches to Palermo. The capital of Sicily nestles on the shores of a large natural harbour that has been a trading centre for thousands of years and the many different cultures that have occupied it have left a fascinating legacy. There is a yacht harbour in the southern corner of the commercial harbour, while Acquasanta is a well-endowed marina used by visitors, just north of the commercial harbour entrance.

From Palermo, the route to the Messina Strait continues south of Vulcan Island to make landfall off Cape Peloro, north of the entrance into the strait. Having reached these narrows separating Sicily from mainland Italy, for those intending to stop the most convenient place is Reggio di Calabria, on the east shore of the strait, which has a marina where fuel and other provisions are available.

In the Messina Strait, the wind tends to blow either in a northerly or southerly direction along the axis of the strait. Sometimes the wind will be NE on the eastern side, NW on the western side and light in the middle. Alternatively, it can be S to SE in the southern approaches, changing abruptly to NW in the northern approaches, which can produce rough seas. Violent gusts come off the high ground, which together with strong tidal currents and a number of small whirlpools and eddies contribute to the strait retaining the flavour of Scylla and Charybdis of the time of Odysseus. A line of tidal bores called tagli can occur at the change of tide. It is therefore essential to time your transit with a favourable tide. The tide sets south on the ebb and north on the flood. Southbound boats should therefore time their arrival at Cape Peloro to coincide with high water.

Having passed the tip of the Italian boot, the route splits in two, with a northern branch heading for the Adriatic, and an eastern branch bound across the Ionian Sea to the Gulf of Patras and the Corinth Canal. The northern route passes a number of attractive destinations in NW Greece such as Corfu. Close by is the port of Saranda, conveniently located for those who wish to visit Albania. From that point, the Adriatic’s many enticements line up on the eastern shore, from the picturesque Bay of Kotor in Montenegro to the medieval city of Dubrovnik in neighbouring Croatia, and all the way to Venice.

The Ionian Islands of Greece are less famous than their Aegean counterparts, although they are just as attractive, with the added bonus of a more benign climate. Heading east through the adjoining Gulfs of Patras and Corinth, the route reaches the canal of that name. The 2000-year-old short cut leads into the Aegean Sea and the sprinkling of islands that reach as far as the coast of Asia Minor and provide unlimited cruising opportunities. When the time comes to resume the voyage for the Suez Canal, if that was the original intention, a course should be set for Rhodes, which is strategically placed for more potential detours whether to Cyprus, along the southern coast of Turkey, or a dash to Port Said.

Westbound routes in the Mediterranean Sea

• | MW1 | Port Said to Gibraltar via Malta | 600
• | MW2 | Port Said to Gibraltar via Messina Strait | 602

As inshore routes are outside the scope of this book, the two westbound routes described in this section are limited to the most commonly sailed offshore routes. Route MW1 outlines the most direct route and is aimed at those who need to reach Gibraltar and the Atlantic Ocean in the shortest time possible. Route MW2 is aimed at those who can take their time while making their way west by describing some of the options available in what is undoubtedly the most varied cruising area in the world.

The weather during the Mediterranean cruising season is generally pleasant but the actual sailing conditions are occasionally disappointing, especially to those who are on a world voyage and have experienced near to perfect trade wind sailing conditions. In the Eastern Mediterranean, favourable northerly winds are common throughout the summer, but by early autumn the winds become more variable, and prolonged calms are frequent, especially on passages to Malta. Because westbound passages have fewer chances of favourable winds than passages in the opposite direction, one should allow more time for such passages and also be prepared to motor through the unavoidable calms.

MW Westbound routes in the Mediterranean Sea

• MW1 Port Said to Gibraltar via Malta

BEST TIME: | April to May, September to October |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4300, US 301, 302 |  |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | Mediterranean Voyages |  |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Italian Waters Pilot, Straits Sailing Handbook. |  |  |
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate | Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Port Said X | Port Said N | Malta NE |  | Valletta X | 946
31°15.5.’N, 32°19.0’E | 31°37.0’N, 32°19.0’E | 35°57.0’N, 14°34.0’E |  | 35°54.2’N, 14°30.7’E |
|  | Sicily SW |  | Tunis X | 1197
|  | 37°38.0’N, 11°30.0’E |  | 36°48.7’N, 10°17.0’E |
|  | Sardinia S |  | Cagliari X | 1280
|  | 38°35.0’N, 9°14.0’E |  | 39°12.0’N, 9°06.0’E |
|  | [Balearics SE] |  | Mahon X | 1535
|  | 38°34.0’N, 4°46.0’E |  | 39°53.5’N, 4°16.0’E |
|  | Spain S |  | Almeria X | 1628
|  | 36°35.0’N, 2°04.0’W |  | 36°49.7’N, 2°27.7’W |
|  | Europa Point |  | Gibraltar | 1768
|  | 36°05.0’N, 5°20.5’W |  | 36°07.5’N, 5°23.0’W |

Sailors reaching the Mediterranean by way of the Red Sea are in a much better position to start their Mediterranean cruise compared to those setting off from Gibraltar, as they normally transit the Suez Canal in March or April, thus arriving in the Eastern Mediterranean at the best possible time. At that point, two very different scenarios come into play. Those who intend to continue their voyage to the US east coast or Northern Europe will need to move at a sustained rhythm to catch the optimum period for their subsequent passage. For those bound for America, this means crossing the Atlantic before the start of the hurricane season, with May and early June being the best time to sail across. The timing is similar for those bound for Northern Europe, who need to avoid the onset of the strong northerly winds, the so-called Portuguese trades, which blow consistently along the Iberian Peninsula in summer. Those in the fortunate position of not being under such time pressure will be able to make their way west at a leisurely pace along the sightseeing route outlined in MW2.

This direct route is thus aimed at sailors who need to cover the roughly 2000 miles that separate them from the Atlantic Ocean in the shortest time possible. The above waypoints outline the suggested route to Gibraltar, which passes a number of important cruising hubs where it is possible to stop for fuel, provisions, crew changes or emergency repairs. A good range of services will be found at Malta, which will be passed very closely, and Palma de Mallorca, which entails a considerable detour but has some of the best repair facilities in the Mediterranean.

On leaving Port Said, the initial course leads to a waypoint set at the northern extremity of the main shipping channel. From that point, a direct course can be set to a landfall just outside the Maltese capital. Valletta port control should be contacted on channel 12 or 16 before proceeding into the harbour. During office hours, visitors are normally directed to the reception dock in Msida Marina. Outside office hours, clearance is completed in the commercial port, Grand Harbour.

In April, there can be a high proportion of NW winds along this stretch and, with the route passing close to the Libyan coast, a port tack will gain some shelter in the lee of Crete. If the winds are not too strong, it may be possible to make better progress by motorsailing, but the possibility of encountering those contrary winds should be borne in mind if sailing to a tight schedule. Predominantly NW winds will continue as far as Sardinia, from where northerly winds should start taking over.

From Malta, the route continues in a NW direction passing south of Sicily, north of the island of Pantelleria and through the Sicily Channel. The route passes close to Cape Bon and the approaches to the Tunisian capital. For those who are looking for a place to stop, the nearest marina is at Sidi Bou Said, which is a convenient base from which to visit both the nearby capital Tunis and also some of the interior of this interesting country.

A somewhat shorter detour can be made to call at the Sardinian capital Cagliari. Several marinas are located within a short distance and provide better docking than the busy port of Cagliari, where visiting yachts may find space in the inner harbour.

Having passed Sardinia, the rest of the passage to Gibraltar can be sailed nonstop by following a course that stays halfway between the Spanish and North African coasts. Such an offshore route also avoids the strong current setting east along those coasts. One more detour may be made west of Sardinia, and that is to the Balearic Islands. Arriving from SE, the recommended landfall is off the south coast of Menorca. The attractive harbour of Mahon has a good range of services and is also the perfect place to start a cruise in the Balearics, with both Mallorca and Ibiza lying on the subsequent route to Gibraltar.

The final landfall on this long passage will be the welcome sight of the lighthouse on Europa Point at Gibraltar’s southern extremity. The coastline is followed around into the large harbour where Ocean Village and Queensway Marina provide good facilities to prepare for the continuation of the voyage.

Bearing in mind the earlier comments, this is a passage that would benefit from better conditions if sailed later in the year. In fact, this is what most sailors do, and even among those who are bound for the US east coast, many take the decision to take the more attractive solution of returning home by way of the Eastern Caribbean. Such a decision would considerably extend both the mileage and duration of the planned voyage, but it would mean that more time would be available to enjoy the highlights of the Mediterranean and return home by potentially a more attractive route.

Those who have decided on this later timing should attempt to be in Gibraltar not much later than the end of September so as to enjoy better sailing conditions on the subsequent passage to the Canaries. Those intending to sail to Northern Europe will find that weather conditions in autumn are rarely favourable and, rather than fight the elements, it is probably wiser to leave the boat in the Mediterranean for the coming winter. There are indeed plenty of good ports and marinas where this can be done at a competitive price. Similarly, American sailors who would rather sail home by the shortest route across the Atlantic should consider leaving their boat in the Western Mediterranean for the winter. This would then make it possible to return early the following season and be poised to cross the Atlantic as early as late April or May.

• MW2 Port Said to Gibraltar via Messina Strait

BEST TIME: | May to September |  |  |
CHARTS: | BA 4300, US 301, 302 |  |  |
World Voyage Planner: | Mediterranean Voyages |  |  |
CRUISING GUIDES: | Greek Waters Pilot, Ionian, Ionian Cruising Companion, West Aegean, West Aegean Cruising Companion, Turkish Waters and Cyprus Pilot, Italian Waters Pilot, Islas Baleares, Straits Sailing Handbook.
WAYPOINTS: |  |  |  |
Start | Departure | Intermediate Landfall | Arrival | Distance
Port Said X | Port Said N | Cyprus SW | Paphos X | 240
31°15.0’N, 32°19.0’E | 31°37.0’N, 32°19.0’E | 34°39.0’N, 31°44.0’E | 34°45.3’N, 32°24.5’E |
|  | Turkey SW | Marmaris X | 423
|  | 36°36.0’N, 28°24.0’E | 36°51.0’N, 28°16.5’E |
|  | Aegean SE | Rhodes X | 422
|  | 36°31.0’N, 28°12.0’E | 36°27.0’N, 28°13.5’E |
|  | Aegean NW | Lavrion X | 635
|  | 37°34.0’N, 24°02.0’E Corinth Canal SE 37°55.0’N, 23°00.6’E Corinth Canal NW 37°57.2’N, 22°57.5’E | 37°41.8’N, 24°03.7’E |
|  | Ionian E | Zakynthos X | 806
|  | 37°59.0’N, 20°41.0’E Messina S 37°56.0’N, 15°33.0’E | 37°46.9’N, 20°54.0’E |
|  | Messina N | Reggio di Calabria X | 1073
|  | 38°21.0’N, 15°41.0’E | 38°7.6’N, 15°39.0’E |
|  | Sicily N | Palermo X | 1184
|  | 38°20.0’N, 13°18.0’E | 38°08.0’N, 13°22.0’E |
|  | Corsica SE | Bonifacio X | 1438
|  | 41°17.0’N, 9°40.0’E | 41°23.3’N, 9°09.8’E |
|  | Nice SE | Nice | 1594
|  | 43°40.0’N, 7°19.0’E | 43°41.6’N, 7°17.2’E |
|  | Marseille S | Marseille X | 1696
|  | 43°10.0’N, 5°18.0’E | 43°21.0’N, 5°19.5’E |
|  | Barcelona NE | Barcelona X | 1860
|  | 41°24.5’N, 2°23.0’E | 41°23.2’N, 2°12.0’E |
|  | Balearics NW | Palma de Mallorca X | 1996
|  | 40°04.0’N, 1°36.0’E | 39°34.0’N, 2°38.0’E |
|  | Spain S | Almeria X | 2174
|  | 36°35.0’N, 2°04.0’W | 36°49.7’N, 2°27.7’W |
|  | Europa Point | Gibraltar X | 2314
|  | 36°05.0’N, 5°20.5’W | 36°07.5’N, 5°23.0’W |

Whereas MW1 is basically a trunk route that crosses the length of the Mediterranean from east to west, the route outlined above can be best described as a tree whose branches spread out from its trunk to reach all major cruising destinations both in the Mediterranean and adjacent seas. The vast choice that is on offer unfolds right from the start in Port Said, with one branch pointing NE towards Israel and Lebanon, another north to Cyprus and Rhodes, and a NW branch to Crete for those who wish to reach the Aegean by that route. Logistical considerations will decide which way to go but those who plan to cruise the Greek Islands in the Aegean ought to reach the northern part of that area before the onset of the meltemi season, a period of sustained northerly winds that dominate the summer months. Such a route will also be sailed by those wishing to expand their reach to the Black Sea and the little-visited countries on its shores. Almost as ambitious a detour is needed by those bound for the Adriatic Sea, which can be reached via the Corinth Canal or the classic route south of the Peloponnese.

Boats bound for the Adriatic will pass on the way a number of attractive destinations in the Greek Ionian islands, such as Corfu. Close by is the border with Albania and the port of Saranda, conveniently located for those who wish to visit that country. From that point the Adriatic’s many attractions line along its eastern shore, from the picturesque Bay of Kotor in Montenegro to the medieval city of Dubrovnik in neighbouring Croatia, and all the way to Venice.

On the westbound route, the Messina Strait provides a convenient short cut to the Tyrrhenian Sea with, on one side, the west coast of Italy and adjacent islands, including nearby Sicily, and on the other side Sardinia and Corsica. The latter is in striking distance of the Côte d’Azur, one of the Mediterranean’s most attractive areas. Compared to Corsica’s abundance of anchorages, the French Riviera is mostly the domain of marinas, although there are a number of anchorages strategically located along the coast. One more rarely missed detour is the Balearic Islands, which combine a wealth of scenic bays and attractively located marinas with some of the best yachting facilities anywhere in the world.

The most travelled route on leaving Port Said is bound for Rhodes, at the SE extremity of the Aegean Sea. Mandraki (Limin Rhodou), the main port of Rhodes, is reached by rounding the NE point of the island. Because of the preponderance of contrary winds along this route, it may be necessary to make a detour to Cyprus, with the ancient port of Paphos being conveniently situated close to this route.

Rhodes is a good base to start your cruise among the countless Greek islands. When the time comes for a change of scenery, more attractive destinations beckon on the west coast of Greece, which can be reached either through the Corinth Canal or by sailing around the south of the Peloponnese Peninsula.

From Western Greece, the route crosses the Ionian Sea to pass Cape Spartivento at the toe of Italy in the southern approaches to the Messina Strait. Having safely negotiated the strait, those bound for Corsica will set a course that passes through the Aeolian Islands and traverses the Tyrrhenian Sea to the island of Maddalena in the approaches to the Bonifacio Strait. This strait, separating Corsica and Sardinia, is dotted with rocks and islets, although the channels are clearly marked and it is not difficult to traverse it. The nearby port of Bonifacio is set at the head of a narrow landlocked bay and is a perfect foretaste of all that this island has to offer.

The French mainland can be reached either by sailing east or west of Corsica. With persistent NW winds it is better to sail from Corsica to the nearest port on the mainland and make westing by sailing along the coast. An alternative route for those who wish to visit ports at the eastern extremity of the French Riviera is to stay east of Corsica and cross to the mainland from its northern point. In this way, the NW winds of summer will be met at a better angle and the worst of a possible mistral on the way may also be avoided. Nice would probably make the most convenient base for those who may prefer to explore some of this part of France by land. Having made landfall south of Cape Ferrat, the marina (Port de Plaisance) is located in the commercial harbour of Nice.

The French Riviera, from the Italian border to Marseille, has one of the highest concentrations of marinas in the world. As expected, yachting facilities are of the highest standard. The widest range of repair facilities concentrated in one area is at Antibes. One important suggestion is to avoid arriving at the height of summer, in July and August, when all ports and marinas are full and in most places it is impossible to find docking space. A much better time is either late spring or early autumn, when the weather is pleasant and neither the ports nor the resorts are so crowded. The weather is pleasant for most of the year, although summers tend to be hot. The Gulf of Lion is especially noted for sudden changes in wind and weather. The strongest wind is the mistral, which can produce unpleasant conditions. After the mistral, the next most common wind is the marin, which blows warm and moist, SE to SW off the sea, and although not as strong as the mistral it raises a heavy sea.

The ancient port of Marseille has one of the most picturesque settings in the world and is a good point of departure for boats that have cruised along the French Riviera. From Marseille, the direct route to Gibraltar passes so close to Barcelona that it makes at least a brief stop in that vibrant city almost unavoidable. The marina Puerto Olimpico is ideally located close to the centre. The route continues south, passing between Ibiza and Cabo San Antonio, on the Spanish mainland. The route passes so close to the Balearics that a stop should be considered. Otherwise the course continues parallel with the mainland coast as far as Cabo de Gata. It is at that point that a contrary east-setting current becomes most noticeable. The route then follows the coast of Spain closely inshore so as to avoid the stronger current offshore. If strong westerly winds are encountered when approaching Gibraltar it is better to seek shelter in a Spanish port along the Costa del Sol to wait for a change rather than try to make headway against both contrary wind and current. Having made landfall south of the light on Europa Point, arriving boats should proceed to one of the marinas to complete formalities. Gibraltar marinas monitor channels 12 and 16.

The eastbound routes ME1 and ME2 should be consulted for more details on some of the ports and features mentioned above.

PANAMA AND SUEZ CANALS

Panama Canal

The Panama Canal is a 43-mile (77 km) man-made waterway that connects the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific Ocean. The canal cuts across the Isthmus of Panama, and there are locks at each end to lift ships up to Gatun Lake, 26 metres (85 ft) above sea level. The old locks were 33.5 metres (110 ft) wide. Construction of a wider set of locks (55 metres/180ft) was finished in June 2016 and doubled the capacity of the canal by adding a new lane of traffic.

France began work on the canal in 1881, but had to stop because of engineering problems and high mortality due to disease. The United States took over the project and completed the canal in 1914. In 1999, the canal was taken over by the Panamanian government. The annual traffic has risen from about 1000 ships when the canal opened in 1914 to over 14,000 vessels in 2019.

Procedures for Transiting the Panama Canal

Small vessels under 38 m (125 ft) are referred to as handlines as they do not require locomotives in the locks. Vessels under 20 m (65 ft) make the transit with a transit advisor; larger yachts must use a canal pilot.

Yachts should obtain the Panama Canal Authority Customer Form ‘Procedures for securing a handline transit of the Panama Canal’ from the website www.pancanal.com.

Advance Notification

The Panama Canal Authority (PCA) requires 96 hours’ advance notification of arrival for vessels wishing to transit the Panama Canal, utilising the Electronic Data Collection System (EDCS). Those who do not intend to use an agent should download form 4405-I at http://www.pancanal.com/eng/op/forms.html, complete it electronically and email it to optc-ara@pancanal.com.

On arrival at the Balboa anchorage or Cristobal breakwater, the captain should contact the relevant signal station and request anchoring or berthing instructions. Cristobal Signal Station and Flamenco Signal Station Balboa listen on channels 12 and 16. On the Caribbean side Shelter Bay Marina is a convenient place to prepare for the transit. On the Pacific side, Flamenco Marina or Balboa Yacht Club may be able to provide temporary docking space.

The captain should then clear in with the Panamanian authorities and make arrangements for the transit by visiting the Admeasurer’s Office at Cristobal or Balboa, providing the EDCS information required (if they have not already done so), presenting the yacht’s registration documents and requesting an inspection. The waiting time for an inspection is normally 2–3 working days after arrival in Panama. Inspections on Saturdays and Sundays incur overtime fees.

When clearance formalities are completed on arrival, the port authority will issue a cruising permit, which is needed whether transiting the canal or not. This also applies to those wishing to visit the San Blas Islands.

Inspection

This will cover admeasurement, equipment requirements, any deficiencies and also lockage arrangements for the transit. The captain will be requested to sign a release covering equipment on board not meeting the PCA requirements.

The optimum minimum speed to transit the canal is 8 knots but this is not enforced in the case of sailing vessels. The PCA may deny transit if a vessel cannot maintain a minimum speed of 5 knots. However, a vessel may be towed through the canal by another yacht if it can tow at 5 or more knots, or make arrangements to be towed, at their own expense, by a PCA launch.

The inspector will deliver an Admeasurement Clearance and Handline Inspection form to be shown to the bank when payment is made covering transit and additional charges.

Transit Expenses

As soon as possible after the inspection, payment should be made at the PCA bank and later the same day Transit Operations should be contacted to confirm payment has been made and to place the yacht on the transit list. Normally a tentative transit date is given at the same time, which must be confirmed and followed up.

Panama Canal – Atlantic Ocean entrance

Transit fees for pleasure craft have been increased in 2020. The fees for boats under 65 feet is $1600, $2400 for boats between 65 and 80 feet, and $3500 for boats between 80 and 100 feet. Additional fees to be paid by each yacht regardless of length were: $54 inspection charge, $130 security charge and $891 buffer fee. The latter covers unforeseen costs and is normally returned within six weeks if no additional charges are due. Extra charges will be made for delayed transit starts, the services of a launch, etc.

Transit Schedule

Southbound transits (Cristobal to Balboa) normally start in the late afternoon, anchoring in Gatun Lake for the night and finishing the following day mid-afternoon. However, the PCA has now determined that they are able to transit yachts through the canal during night hours, and will therefore sometimes schedule transits for yachts without an overnight stop. Southbound transits start in the afternoon and finish late at night (1500 to 2330), or start late afternoon and finish the following day mid-afternoon with an overnight in Gatun Lake.

Northbound transits (Balboa to Cristobal) normally start around sunrise and finish the same day in the late afternoon. The locks will most likely be passed with a small commercial ship. As per the PCA rules and regulations, in order to complete a transit in this time frame yachts are required to have a minimum speed of 8 knots. If a yacht cannot meet this minimum speed and therefore misses the next lockage with the commercial ship, there may be additional charges incurred, which are included in the buffer fee. Yachts are required to maintain their transit schedule regardless of weather.

Panama Canal – Pacific Ocean entrance

Transit advisors

The advisor appointed by the PCA will be on board throughout the transit. It is important to remember that the advisor is not a pilot in command, but as the name suggests, an advisor. The captain may not necessarily choose to take all the advice given. The advisor needs to be given proper meals while on board and bottled water with unbroken seals.

Equipment requirements

Handline vessels must have four line handlers (apart from the captain), one for each of the four lines required. Most boats have to rent large fenders and long lines for their transit. If using an agent, this can be arranged through them and they will be responsible for collecting them after the transit. During the inspection, the admeasurer will check the required docking lines and fenders, and explain the requirements for the transit, such as four mooring lines not less than 38 m (125 ft) long and not less than 22 mm (7⁄8 in) in diameter.

Types of lockage

There are three types of lockage for yachts under 38 m (125 ft): centre chamber, sidewall or alongside a tug. Because of the roughness of the walls and the turbulence created during the filling of the chambers, yachts usually transit centre chamber or alongside a PCA tug, but each yacht must be capable of centre lockage.

Centre chamber lockage: the vessel is held in the centre of the chamber by two bow and two stern lines. Yachts are sometimes rafted together, in which case only those on the outside will handle two mooring lines each.

Sidewall lockage: only two 30m lines are required but plenty of fenders, as the walls are rough concrete. Care should be taken of the rigging and spreaders, which may hit the walls as the water is lowered in the chamber. This type of lockage is not recommended for yachts less than 20 m (65 ft) in length.

Alongside a tug: two 15m lines are required and also two springs, as well as adequate fenders. This is the best type of lockage for small yachts and is the preferred lockage used by the canal advisors.

Agents

It is not required by the PCA that a local agent is employed. However, those who choose to transit without using an official agent will have to pay a security deposit of $891, which will be repaid into one’s bank account after about six weeks. With an official agent this is not necessary. The service of agents is advisable for those who do not want to do the paperwork for the transit themselves or who have no knowledge of Spanish.

Suez Canal

The 120-mile-long (190 km) Suez Canal links the Mediterranean and the Red Sea by way of several lakes and without any locks. Its opening in 1869 had a tremendous impact on international shipping as it halved the distance between Europe and East Asia. In its long history, the canal has been closed twice as a result of war: in 1956 for a year and in 1967 for seven years. It is now used regularly by about 100 ships per day and its recent upgrading has made it possible for the canal to be transited by vessels of up to 200,000 tons.

The captains of small vessels intending to transit the canal are allowed by the Suez Canal Authority to complete the formalities on their own, but as they are very complicated, the use of a shipping agent is strongly recommended. Both in Port Said and Suez there are firms that specialise in handling small boats and their representatives are usually on station in the approaches to the canal offering their services. If the services of a local agent are employed, all additional costs must be specified by the agent and fees agreed in advance. The transit fees for small craft were raised in 2021 from $60 to $900, although they are still lower than those charged for the Panama Canal.

Suez Canal

Those who do not wish to be delayed after the transit of the canal is completed can request outward clearance from either Port Said or Suez while completing formalities for their transit. They can then proceed on their way as soon as they have dropped the pilot at the end of the transit. Those wishing to visit inland areas of Egypt either before or after passing through the canal need a tourist visa, which can be obtained on arrival. During a trip inland, the boat can be left in the care of either the Suez Yacht Club or Fouad Yacht Club in Port Said.

Because of the length of the canal, very few yachts are able to transit the canal in one day. Small vessels are not permitted to use the canal at night and for this reason it is necessary to anchor overnight at Ismailia, in the NW corner of Lake Timsah. The crew are normally allowed to use the local yacht club but must not leave the premises. Usually the same pilot will rejoin the yacht at dawn to complete the transit.

Yachts must be capable of maintaining a speed of 5 knots under power. The speed limit in the canal is 9 knots. The use of sails is not permitted, although with the pilot’s permission the mainsail may be run up while crossing the Bitter Lakes if the weather warrants this. If the vessel is delayed for any reason and Ismailia cannot be reached before nightfall, the captain may be required to anchor for the night in a place where the yacht does not impede the passage of larger vessels.

Southbound

Small vessels arriving at the Mediterranean entrance to the canal in Port Said must berth at the Fouad Yacht Club, which is situated on the east side of the harbour. Because of the high density of traffic and intricate approaches, Port Said Harbour should not be entered at night. On the morning of the transit, a pilot will board the vessel at an agreed place. The pilot will take the vessel as far as Ismailia, where the night will be spent at anchor on Lake Timsah. The pilot will be collected by launch and either the same pilot or a replacement will join the yacht the following morning to complete the transit. On arrival in Suez, yachts usually moor at the Suez Yacht Club, situated in a creek on the west bank, close to the southern end of the canal. The pilot will give instructions how to reach the club and he can be dropped there.

Suez Canal – approaches to Suez

Suez Canal – approaches to Port Said

Northbound

Vessels approaching the canal from the Red Sea must anchor in Port Ibrahim, in the NE corner of Suez Bay, close to the north of the canal entrance. After formalities have been completed, the boat can move to the Suez Yacht Club, or remain at anchor. Whether completing formalities alone or with the help of an agent, a pilot appointed by the Canal Authority will join the yacht on the morning of the agreed day, either at the yacht club or more likely at the customs wharf close to the entrance to the canal, on the west side of the harbour. Yachts normally transit just after the morning convoy has left Suez, between 0900 and 1100. Usually on the first day of the transit yachts only manage to go as far as Ismailia, where the night is spent at anchor on Lake Timsah. The pilot will be collected by a launch and either the same pilot or a replacement pilot will join the yacht the following morning to complete the transit. Occasionally, if the morning convoy is late leaving Port Said, the yacht is delayed leaving Ismailia and may have to spend a second night in the canal. On arrival in Port Said, the pilot will be picked up by a launch and the yacht is free to proceed on her way. Those who have obtained onward clearance can put to sea immediately. Those who wish to stay should proceed to the Fouad Yacht Club, on the east side of the harbour.

Transit procedure

The captains of yachts intending to transit the canal will be informed at the yacht club either by a club official or an official of the Canal Authority on the correct procedure to follow. Although time consuming, taking two to three days, the formalities can be carried out by the captain alone and the service of an agent is not essential. The captain first has to visit the Small Craft Department in the main building of the Canal Authority. He will be instructed as to the various formalities to be carried out and also the payments to be made. These payments include the transiting fee, insurance policy and ports and lights fee. The captain can do all necessary formalities himself, but the relatively small amount of money saved hardly justifies the effort. The following offices must be visited in either Suez (northbound) or Port Said (southbound):

•The Suez Canal Small Craft Department to present the ship’s documents and apply for a canal transit.

•The Port Immigration office to complete arrival formalities.

•The Insurance company to obtain an insurance certificate.

•The Suez Canal Small Craft Department again, this time to present your insurance certificate.

•The Customs and Quarantine offices, on the day before the canal transit, to obtain the yacht’s outward clearance. An official of these departments may visit the yacht.

•The Port Immigration office to present your departure form.

•The Red Sea Port Authority to issue a port clearance certificate.

•The Small Craft Department for a third time, to take all documents back and to arrange a technical inspection of the yacht. Following this inspection, a transit permit will be issued and a time arranged for the pilot to come on board.

•The captain will then have to go with the passports of all on board to the immigration office to have them stamped.

On the day of the transit the pilot will arrive early in the morning to guide the yacht as far as the place where the yacht must spend the night, as yachts are not allowed to transit during the hours of darkness. Early the following morning, either the same pilot or another one will complete the transit. Yachts are not allowed to transit the canal if a warship is scheduled to pass through.

Captains are advised not to expect the pilot to know anything about piloting a yacht. It is recommended to keep in 8–10 m of water close to the buoys if the flow is against you and 15–18 m if the flow is with you. You can gain well in excess of 1 knot doing so.

If you have problems in the canal, such as engine trouble, it is best to contact first the agent, who may be able to find a solution, because if contacted, the Canal Authority will send a canal tug and the charges could be very high.

CRUISING GUIDES

Mediterranean, Adriatic, Ionian, Aegean and Black Sea

7777 Adriatic and Ionian Seas, from the Italian-Slovenian Border to Reggio Calabria and the Tremiti Islands, Dario Silvestro, Marco Sbrizzi & Piero Magnabosco, Edizioni Magnamare

777 Harbours and Anchorages, Eastern Adriatic Slovenia, Croatia, Montenegro and Albania, Dario Silvestro & Piero Magnabosco, Edizoni Magnamare

777 – Sardinia Corsica, Marco Sbrizzi, Piero Magnabosco & Dario Silvestro, Edizoni Magnamare

777 Sicily and Malta, Dario Silvestro, Marco Sbrizzi & Piero Magnabosco, Edizioni Magnamare

777. Sicily – From Capo d’Orlando to Milazzo and Aeolian Islands, Dario Silvestro, Marco Sbrizzi & Piero Magnabosco, Edizioni Magnamare

Adriatic Pilot, T and D Thompson, Imray

Aeolian Islands Nautical Guide, Carolyn Berger, Lombardo Edizioni

A Yachting Pilot for Crete, Tony and Tessa Cross, RCC

Black Sea, The, David Read Barker and Lisa Borre, RCC Imray

Corsica and North Sardinia, Madeleine & Stephan Strobel, Imray

Cruising Bulgaria and Romania, Nicky Allardice, Imray

East Aegean, Rod Heikell, Imray

Greek Waters Pilot, Rod and Lucinda Heikell, Imray

Harbour Guide Croatia, Montenegro and Slovenia, E Glaumann, J Hermansson and P Hotvedt, Imray

Imray Pocket Pilot: The Carian Coast, Turkey, Lucinda Heikell, Imray

Harbour Guide, Greece 1, Ionian, Peloponnese Gulf, Athens, Saronic Gulf, Albania, P Hotvedt, Skagerrak Forlag

Imray Pocket Pilot: Corsica, Lucinda Heikell, Imray

Imray Pocket Pilot: The Ionian, Lucinda Heikell, Imray

Imray Pocket Pilot: The South of France, Lucinda Heikell, Imray

Ionian, Rod and Lucinda Heikell, Imray

Islas Baleares, D & S Baggaley, RCC Imray

Italian Waters Pilot, Rod and Lucinda Heikell, Imray

Mediterranean Almanac, ed Rod and Lucinda Heikell, Imray

Mediterranean Cruising, The Adlard Coles Book of, Rod Heikell, Adlard Coles Nautical

Mediterranean Cruising Handbook, Rod and Lucinda Heikell, Imray

Mediterranean France and Corsica Pilot, Rod and Lucinda Heikell, Imray

Mediterranean Sea Chart-Guides Italy & Corsica 2, Ligurian Sea, Northern Tyrrhenian Sea, Corsica, North Sardinia, Luca Tonghini, Edizioni Il Frangente

Mediterranean Sea Chart-Guides Italy 3 Central and Southern Tyrrhenian Sea Sardinia, Luca Tonghini

Mediterranean Sea Chart-Guides Balearic Islands 10, Luca Tonghini, Edizioni Il Frangente

Mediterranean Sea Chart-Guide 6, Greece – Ionian Sea, N. Trentini e C. Chronopoulou, Edizioni Il Frangente

Mediterranean Spain, Steve Pickard, RCC Imray

Turkey Cruising Companion, Emma Watson, Fernhurst Books

Turkish Waters and Cyprus Pilot, Rod and Lucinda Heikell, Imray

West Aegean, Rod and Lucinda Heikell, Imray

Eastern North Atlantic and Baltic Sea

50 Great Inland Cruising Routes in the Netherlands, Andy and Gwen Mulholland, Cruising Association

Atlantic Crossing Guide, Jane Russell, RCC

Atlantic France, Nick Chavasse, RCC

Atlantic Islands, A Hammick & H Keatinge, Imray

Atlantic Pilot Atlas, James Clarke, Adlard Coles Nautical

Atlantic Spain and Portugal, H Buchanan, Imray

The Baltic Sea & Approaches, RCC Pilotage Foundation, Imray

Bristol Channel and Severn Cruising Guide, P Cumberlidge, Imray

Canary Islands Cruising Guide, Oliver Solanas Heinrichs & Mike Westin, Imray

CCC Cruising Scotland, Mike Balmforth and Edward Mason, Clyde Cruising Club, Imray, updates at www.clyde.org

CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages, five volumes covering Scotland, Hebrides, Orkney and Shetland Islands, Clyde Cruising Club, Imray, updates at www.clyde.org

Channel Islands, Cherbourg Peninsula & North Brittany, P Carnegie, RCC Imray

Crossing the Thames Estuary, Roger Gaspar, Imray

Cruising Almanac, Cruising Association, Imray

Cruising Anglesey and Adjoining Waters, From Liverpool to Aberdovey, Ralph Morris, Imray

Cruising Cork and Kerry, Graham Swanson, Imray

Cruising Galicia, Carlos Rojas and Robert Bailey, Imray

Cruising Guide to Baltic Russia, Vladimir Ivankiv, Graham and Fay Cattell, Cruising Association

Cruising Guide to West Africa, Steven Jones, RCC Imray

Cruising Guide to the Netherlands, Brian Navin, Imray

Cruising Guide to Germany and Denmark, Brian Navin, Imray

Cruising Guide to Iceland, the Faroe Islands, Greenland and Jan Mayen, Michael Henderson and Helen Gould, Cruising Association

Cruising Guide to Poland, Nicholas Hill, Cruising Association

Cruising in Norway, Howard Steen, Cruising Association

Cruising Ireland Companion Guide, Mike Balmforth and Norman Kean, Irish Cruising Club Publications

Cruising the Canals and Rivers of Europe, Tom Sommers, EuroCanals Cruising Guides, www.eurocanals.com

Cruising French Waterways, Hugh McKnight, Adlard Coles Nautical

Cruising the River Moselle/Mosel, Andy & Gwen Mulholland, Cruising Association

Cruising the Wild Atlantic Way, Daria and Alex Blackwell, White Seahorse Publishing

Das IJsselmeer mit Noord-Holland · Randmeeren · Flevoland · Vecht · Eem · Loosdrechtse Plassen, Manfred Fenzl, Edition Maritim

Friesland – Zwischen Ems und IJsselmeer · Mit Route durch das Veen, Manfred Fenzl, Edition Maritim

Den Norske Los, Norwegian Pilot Guide Sailing Directions, Norwegian Hydrographic Service, seven volumes, free downloads at www.kartverket.no

East Coast Pilot, G Cooper and D Holness, Imray

East and North Coasts of Ireland Sailing Directions, Irish Cruising Club

European Waterways, The, A User’s Guide, Marian Martin, Adlard Coles Nautical

Guest Harbours Finland: Käyntisatamat, Suomen Vierassatamat, www.satamaopas.fi

Guide to the German Rhine, Roger Edgar and Rob Thomas, Cruising Association

Harbours of the Baltic States, Cruising and Harbour guide to Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia, F&G Cattell, Cruising Association

Havneguiden Harbour Guides for Scandinavia and Baltic, volumes 1-11, Skagerrak Forlag, electronic versions and translations available at https://www.harbourguide.com/en/

Hidden Harbours of Southwest Britain, Dag Pike, Imray

Hidden Harbours of Wales, Dag Pike, Imray

Hidden Harbours of the Northwest, Dag Pike, Imray

Hidden Harbours of Southwest Scotland, Dag Pike, Imray

Imray Pocket Pilot: The Morbihan West France, Nick Chavasse, RCC Imray

Imray Pocket Pilot: Galicia, Norman Kean, RCC Imray

Imray Pocket Pilot: West Coast of Scotland, Norman Kean, RCC Imray

Inland Waterways of France, David Edwards-May, Imray

Inland Waterways of Belgium, Jacqueline Jones, Imray

Inland Waterways France and Belgium, Cruising Association

Inland Waterways of Germany, Barry Sheffield, C & J Best & R Thomas, Imray

Inland Waterways of the Netherlands, Louise Busby and David Broad, Imray, www. inlandwaterwaysofthenetherlands.com

Isles of Scilly, Graham Adam, RCC Imray

Irish Sea Pilot, David Rainsbury, Imray

North Brittany and Channel Islands Cruising Companion, Jane and Peter Cumberlidge, Fernhurst Books

North Sea Passage Pilot, Brian Navin, Imray

Norway, Judy Lomax, RCC Imray

Norwegian Cruising Guide: vols 1-4, Norway, Svalbard and the west coast of Sweden, P Nickel and J Harries, www. norwegiancruisingguide.com

Practical Boat Owner’s Sailing Around the UK and Ireland, Roger Oliver, Adlard Coles Nautical

Sail in Estonia and Latvia, download at http:// eastbaltic.eu/cruising-guide/

Sail to Svalbard, Jon Amtrup, Skagerrak Forlag

Saimaa Canal Pleasure Craft Guide, Finnish Transport Agency, available at https:// vayla.fi

Shell Channel Pilot, Tom Cunliffe, Imray

Shetland Islands Pilot, Gordon Buchanan, Imray

Solent Cruising Companion, Derek Azlett, Fernhurst Books

South Biscay, Steve Pickard, RCC Imray

South and West Coast of Ireland Sailing Directions, Irish Cruising Club

Southern Ireland Cruising Companion, Robert Wilcox, Fernhurst Books

Through the French Canals, David Jefferson, Adlard Coles Nautical

Through the Netherlands via the Standing Mast Routes, Andy Mulholland and James Littlewood, Cruising Association

Tidal Havens of the Wash and Humber, Henry Irving, Imray

UK and Ireland Circumnavigator’s Guide, Sam Steele, Adlard Coles Nautical

Wateralmanac, ANWB

West Country, The, Bill of Portland to the Isles of Scilly, Carlos Rojas & Susan Kemp-Wheeler, Imray

West Country Cruising Companion, Mark Fishwick, Fernhurst Books

Yachting Monthly’s Channel Havens, The Secret Inlets and Secluded Anchorages of the Channel, Ken Endean, Adlard Coles Nautical

Yachtsman’s Pilot to Skye and Northwest Scotland, M Lawrence, Imray

Western North Atlantic and Caribbean

Beautiful Bonaire, Sail Adventures, www. sailadventures.nl

Canadian Maritimes, Capt. Cheryl Barr, Yacht Pilot Publishing

Colombia to Rio Dulce, Frank Virgintino, e-book only

A Complete Cruising Guide to the Down East Circle Route, Cheryl Barr, Yacht Pilot Publishing

A Cruising Guide to the Lesser Antilles: The Virgin Islands, Frank Virgintino

A Cruising Guide to the Lesser Antilles: The Windward Islands, Frank Virgintino

A Cruising Guide to the Northwest Caribbean, Stephen Pavlidis, Seaworthy Publications

A Thinking Man’s Guide To Voyaging South: The Many Facets of Caribbean Cruising, Frank Virgintino, Kindle ebook only

Cayman Islands Cruising Guide, Frank Virgintino

Chesapeake Bay to Florida, Embassy Cruising Guide

Cruising Guide to Abaco Bahamas, Steve, Jon, Lisa & Jeff Dodge, White Sound Press

Cruising Guide to the ABC Islands, Frank Virgintino

Cruising Guide to Belize and Mexico’s Caribbean Coast, including Guatemala’s Rio Dulce, Freya Rauscher, Cruising Guide Publications

Cruising Guide to Bermuda, Sail Adventures, www.sailadventures.nl

Cruising Guide to Cuba, Amaia Agirre and Frank Virgintino, e-book only

Cruising Guide to Cuba Vol I and II, Capt. Cheryl Barr, Yacht Pilot Publishing, www.cruisingincuba.com

Cruising Guide to the Florida Keys, Frank Papy

Cruising Guide to Labrador, Cruising Club of America

Cruising Guide to French Guiana, Suriname and Guyana, M. Dixon-Tyrer, RCC Pilotage Foundation

Cruising Guide to Newfoundland, Cruising Club of America

Cruising Guide to the Northern Leeward Islands, Chris Doyle, Cruising Guide Publications

Cruising Guide to Nova Scotia, Cruising Club of America

Cruising Guide to Puerto Rico, Stephen Pavlidis, Seaworthy Publications

Cruising Guide to the Southern Leeward Islands, Chris Doyle, Cruising Guide Publications

Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St Lawrence, Cruising Club of America

Cruising Guide to Trinidad and Tobago, Barbados and Guyana, Chris Doyle, Cruising Guide Publications

Cruising Guide to Venezuela and Bonaire, Chris Doyle and Jeff Fisher, Cruising Guide Publications

Cruising Guide to the Virgin Islands, Simon and Nancy Scott, Cruising Guide Publications

Cruising Guide to the Windward Islands, Stephen Pavlidis, Seaworthy Publications

A Cruising Guide to the Dominican Republic, Frank Virgintino, e-book only

Cruising Ports: the Central American Route, Capt Pat Rains

The Exuma Guide, Stephen Pavlidis, Seaworthy Publications

Florida Cruising Guide, Embassy Cruising Guide

Gentleman’s Guide to Passages South, Bruce van Sant, Cruising Guide Publications

Georgia Coast, Tom and Nancy Zydler, Seaworthy Publications

Grenada to the Virgin Islands, Jacques Patuelli, Imray

Guide to the Potomac River, Chesapeake Bay Magazine

Haiti Cruising Guide, Frank Virgintino

Jamaica Cruising Guide, Frank Virgintino

Leeward Islands, The, Stephen Pavlidis, Seaworthy Publications

Long Island Sound to Cape May, Embassy Cruising Guide

New England Coast, Embassy Cruising Guide

Northwest Caribbean: Jamaica, Cayman Is, Honduras, Guatemala and Rio Dulce, Stephen Pavlidis, Seaworthy Publications

Northern Bahamas, Stephen Pavlidis, Seaworthy Publications

Panama Cruising Guide, Eric Bauhaus, Cruising Guide Publications

Panama Guide, The, Nancy Schwalbe Zydler and Tom Zydler, Seaworthy Publications”

Puerto Rico Cruising Guide, Frank Virgintino

Sailors Guide to the Windward Islands, Chris Doyle, Cruising Guide Publications

Southern Bahamas, Stephen Pavlidis, Seaworthy Publications

Street’s Guide to the Cape Verde Islands, Don Street, Seaworthy Publications

The Captain’s Guide To Hurricane Holes – The Bahamas And Caribbean, Dave Underill, Seaworthy Publications

The Turks and Caicos, including Dominican Republic, Stephen Pavlidis, Seaworthy Publications

Virgin Islands, Stephen Pavlidis, Seaworthy Publications

Virgin Anchorages, Cruising Guide Publications

Waterway Guides: Atlantic ICW, Bahamas, Chesapeake Bay, Cuba, Florida Keys, Northern and Southern East Coast, Gulf Coast, Waterway Guide Publications, www.waterwayguide.com

Windward Anchorages, Chris Doyle, Cruising Guide Publications

Yachtsman’s Guide to the Bahamas, Tropical Island Publishers, http://yachtsmansguide.com

Yachtsman’s Guide to the Virgin Islands, Tropical Island Publishers, http:// yachtsmansguide.com

South Atlantic and Southern Ocean

Antarctica Cruising Guide, P Carey and C Franklin, Awa Press

Argentina, Andy O’Grady & Pete Hill, RCC

Brazil Cruising Guide, Michel Balette, Imray

Cape Horn and Antarctic Waters including Chile, the Beagle Channel, Falkland Islands and the Antarctic Peninsula, Paul Heiney, RCC

A Cruising Guide to French Guiana, Suriname and Guyana, Martin Dixon-Tyrer, RCC

Cruising Guide to the Coast of Brazil Part 1, 2 and 3, Pete Hill, RCC

Cruising Guide to South Orkney, P and A Hill, RCC Pilotage Foundation

Falkland Islands Shores and Supplement, P and A Hill, Imray

Havens and Anchorages, Tom Morgan, RCC

Pleasant Suriname (a Cruising Guide to Dutch Guyana) by John Hoedemakers & Jolanda Geerdink, Sail Adventures, www. sailadventures.nl

South Africa to the Caribbean, Chris Hamblin, RCC

South Atlantic Circuit, Tom Morgan, RCC

South Atlantic Islands, Gough Island, Tristan da Cunha, St Helena, Ascension Island, Pete Hill, RCC

South Georgia, P & A Hill, Andy O’Grady & Ulla Norlander, RCC Pilotage Foundation

South Shetland Islands and Antarctic Peninsula, P Hill & N Marshall, RCC Pilotage Foundation

Southwest Africa, Pete Hill, RCC

North Pacific

Aleutian Islands and the Alaska Peninsula to Prince William Sound, Martin Walker, RCC

Anchorages and Marine Parks: The Guide to Popular Pacific Northwest Anchorages, Peter Vassilopoulos, Pacific Marine Publishing

Broughton Islands Cruising Guide, Peter Vassilopoulos, Pacific Marine Publishing

Costa Rica, Charlie’s Charts

Cruising Desolation Sound, Peter Vassilopoulos, Pacific Marine Publishing

Cruising Guide to Central and Southern California, Brian Fagan, International Marine

Cruising Guide to the Hawaiian Islands, C and B Mehaffy, Paradise Cay Publications

Cruising Guide to Puget Sound and San Juan Is, Migael Scherer, International Marine

Cruising Guide to San Francisco Bay, C and B Mehaffy, Paradise Cay Publications

Cruising Guides to the Salish Sea, Gulf Islands, Puget Sound, San Juan Islands, Broughton Archipelago, West Coast of Vancouver Island, and Desolation Sound, Jim Burgoyne and Lynne Picard, http://salishseapilot.com

Cruising the Inside Passage, Peter Vassilopoulos, Pacific Marine Publishing

Cruising Notes SE Alaska to Vancouver Island, RCC

Docks and Destinations, The Complete Guide to Pacific Northwest Marinas, Peter Vassilopoulos, Pacific Marine Publishing

Dreamspeaker Cruising Guides to the Pacific Northwest, series, A and L Yeardon-Jones, Dreamspeaker Guides

Exploring Alaska and British Columbia, Stephen E Hilson, Evergreen Pacific Publishing

Explore Central America Part I and II, Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, Pacific Costa Rica, and Panama, www.svsarana.com

Exploring the north coast of British Columbia, D and R Douglass, Fine Edge Publications

Exploring the San Juan and Gulf Is, D and R Douglass, Fine Edge Publications

Exploring the south coast of British Columbia, D and R Douglass, Fine Edge Publications

Exploring Southeast Alaska, D and R Douglass, Fine Edge Publications

Exploring Vancouver Island’s West Coast, D and R Douglass, Fine Edge Publications

Gulf Islands: A Boater’s Guidebook, Shawn Breeding and Heather Bansmer, Blue Latitude Press

Hawaiian Islands, Charlie’s Charts

Mexico Boating Guide, Pat Rains, Point Loma Publishing

North to Alaska, Charlie’s Charts

Northwest Boat Travel, Vernon Publications

Pacific Mexico: A Cruiser’s Guidebook, Shawn Breeding & Heather Bansmer, Blue Latitude Press

Sea of Cortez, Shawn Breeding and Heather Bansmer, Blue Latitude Press

Southern California Channel Islands, F Hawkings, RCC

Southern California, Charlie’s Charts

San Juan Islands: A Boater’s Guidebook, Shawn Breeding and Heather Bansmer, Blue Latitude Press

US Pacific Coast, Charlie’s Charts

Waggoner Cruising Guide, Waggoner Guide Books

Western Coast of Mexico and Baja, Charlie’s Charts

South Pacific

Cairns to Darwin, The Anchorage Guide, M Templeton & M Cook

Chile, A O’Grady, Imray

Coastal Cruising Handbook, Royal Akarana Yacht Club

Cruising Guide to the Kingdom of Tonga, The Moorings, ebook only at http://www.tongasailing.com

Cruising the Coral Coast, Alan Lucas, Alan Lucas Cruising Guides

Cruising the New South Wales Coast, Alan Lucas, Alan Lucas Cruising Guides

Cruising North East Tasmania, Cruising Yacht Club of Tasmania

Cruising Southern Tasmania, Cruising Yacht Club of Tasmania

Cruising Tasmania, J Brettingham-Moore

Cruising Victoria, Cruising Yacht Association of Victoria

Fiji Notes, Lau Group, David Mitchell, RCC

Fiji – Avon Migrant Cruising Notes, Phil Cregeen, Captain Teach Press

Ha’apai –Avon Migrant Cruising Notes, Phil Cregeen, Captain Teach Press

Landfalls of Paradise, Earl Hinz and J Howard, University of Hawaii Press

Micronesia Cruising Notes, Phil Cregeen, Captain Teach Press

Nautical Rocket Guide to New Caledonia, ebook, R & F Chesher

Nautical Rocket Cruising Guide to Vanuatu, ebook, R & F Chesher

New Zealand Cruising Guide Central Area, K W J Murray & R Von Kohorn, Steven William Publications

New Zealand’s Hauraki Gulf including the Mercury Islands, Mercury Bay and Great Barrier Island, David Thatcher, Captain Teach Press

New Zealand’s Northland Coast: Whangarei to Cape Reinga and Three Kings Islands, David Thatcher, Captain Teach Press

Northern Territory Coast Cruising Guide, John Knight, Diane Andrews Publishing

Pacific Crossing Guide, Kitty Van Hagen, RCC

Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego Nautical Guide, M Rolfo and G Ardrizzi, Editrice Incontri Nautici, www.capehorn-pilot.com

Polynesia, Charlie’s Charts

Power and Sail New Zealand Cruising Guide, Sail South Pacific, app only

Rob’s Passage Planner: For East Coast Australia, Lizard Island to Hobart, Rob Starkey

Sail Fiji Cruising Guide, Sail South Pacific, app only

Sail South Pacific Crossing Planner, Sail South Pacific, app only

Sail Tonga Cruising Guide, Sail South Pacific, app only

Solomon Islands Cruising Guide, Dirk Sieling, Sail South Pacific

South Australia’s Waters – an Atlas and Guide, Boating Industry Association of SA

Southern New Caledonia – Avon Migrant Cruising Notes, Phil Cregeen, Captain Teach Press

South Pacific Anchorages, Warwick Clay, Imray

Tasmanian Anchorage Guide, Royal Yacht Club of Tasmania

Torres Strait Passage Guide, Ken Hellewell, Kindle only

Vanuatu – Avon Migrant Cruising Notes, Phil Cregeen, Captain Teach Press

Vava’u Cruising Guide, The Moorings, ebook only at http://www.tongasailing.com

Western Australian Cruising Guide, West Coast from Darwin to Eucla & the Christmas and Cocos Islands, Fremantle Sailing Club

Whitsunday Islands, The: 100 Magic Miles, David Colfelt, Windward Publications

Yellow Flag Stopover Handbook, New Caledonia, https://en.nc.yellowflagguides.com

Yellow Flag Stopover Handbook in French Polynesia, https://en.pf.yellowflagguides.com

Southeast Asia, Indian Ocean and Red Sea

Chagos Archipelago British Indian Ocean Territory, Tom Partridge, RCC

Cruising South East Indonesia plus the West Coast of Australia: A Guide to Anchorages, W R Burbridge

Cruising Guide to Indonesia, Andy Scott, https://cruisingguideindonesia.com

Cruising Guide to Southeast Asia, Volume II, Stephen Davies and Elaine Morgan, Imray

East Africa Pilot, Delwyn McPhun, Imray

Indian Ocean Cruising Guide, Rod Heikell, RCC Imray

Maldives Cruising Guide, Max Molteni, Edizioni il Frangente

Maldives, Sailing through Paradise, Sail Adventures, www.sailadventures.nl

Red Sea Pilot, Elaine Morgan and Stephen Davis, Imray

Southeast Asia Pilot, Andy Dowden, Greville Fordham and Bill O’Leary, Phuket Publicity Services Partnership

South China Sea Singapore to Hong Kong via the Gulf of Thailand, Malaysia, Brunei, the Philippines and Taiwan, Jo Winter, RCC

High Latitudes

Arctic and Northern Waters including Faroe, Iceland and Greenland, Andrew Wilkes, RCC

High Latitude Sailing, Jon Amtrup and Bob Shepton, Adlard Coles Nautical

Periplus to Northwest Passage, Victor Wejer, RCC

Polar Yacht Guide, Andrew Wilkes, Alan Green, Victor Wejer & Skip Novak, RCC Pilotage Foundation

General Books

World Cruising Destinations, Jimmy and Doina Cornell, Adlard Coles Nautical

World Voyage Planner, Jimmy Cornell, Adlard Coles Nautical

Cornells’ Ocean Atlas, Jimmy and Ivan Cornell, Cornell Sailing Publications

200,000 Miles: A Life of Adventure, Jimmy Cornell, Cornell Sailing Publications

French for Cruisers, Kathy Parsons, Aventuras Publishing Company

Spanish for Cruisers, Kathy Parsons, Aventuras Publishing Company

Cruising Guide Online Updates

RCC Pilotage Foundation, https://rccpf.org.uk/Updates-and-Supplements

Imray, www.imray.com

Alan Lucas Guides, www.alanlucascruisingguides.com

Captains Mate, Cruising Association, www.theca.org.uk

Chris Doyle’s Caribbean Cruising Guides, www.doyleguides.com

Cruising Club of America: https:// cruisingclub.org/cruising-guides-canadianmaritimes

Cruising Guides App, www.cruisingguides.com

Fernhurst Books, http://fernhurstbooks.com

LIST OF ROUTES (in alphabetical order)

Antarctica to Falkland Islands and South Georgia AS38 263

Antarctica to Patagonia AS37 262

Australia to Southeast Asia IT19 512

Azores to Bermuda AN137 169

Azores to Brazil AT13 225

Azores to Canada and Greenland AN139 171

Azores to Canary Islands AN136 168

Azores to Gibraltar AN134 166

Azores to Ireland AN131 163

Azores to Madeira AN135 167

Azores to Northern Europe AN132 164

Azores to Portugal AN133 165

Azores to USA AN138 170

Bali to Singapore IT11 503

Bali to Sri Lanka IT12 505

Bali to Western Australia IS22 539

Bermuda and North America to Brazil AT14 226

Bermuda to Azores AN125 157

Bermuda to Eastern Caribbean AN126 158

Bermuda to Florida and Bahamas AN122 154

Bermuda to Gibraltar AN124 156

Bermuda to North America AN121 152

Bermuda to Northern Europe AN123 155

Bermuda to Southern Caribbean and Panama AN128 160

Bermuda to Western Caribbean AN127 159

Brazil to Azores AT22 231

Brazil to Cape Verde and Canary Islands AT23 232

Brazil to Eastern Caribbean AT21 230

Brazil to West Africa AT24 233

California and Mexico to Galapagos PT12 346

California and Mexico to Marquesas PT14 349

California to Alaska PN17 279

California to Hawaii PN11 273

Canary and Cape Verde Islands to Brazil AT11 223

Canary Islands to Azores AN56 69

Canary Islands to Bahamas AN54 68

Canary Islands to Bermuda AN55 68

Canary Islands to Cape Verde Islands AN52 66

Canary Islands to Gibraltar AN58 70

Canary Islands to Lesser Antilles AN51 63

Canary Islands to Madeira AN57 70

Canary Islands to Northern Europe AN59 71

Canary Islands to West Africa AN53 67

Cape Town to Brazil AS14 244

Cape Town to Falkland Islands and South Georgia AS16 246

Cape Verde Islands to Azores AN61 73

Cape Verde Islands to Canary Islands AN66 77

Cape Verde Islands to Lesser Antilles AN62 74

Cape Verde Islands to Northern Brazil and Guyanas AN68 79

Cape Verde Islands to West Africa AN67 78

Chagos to Madagascar IS37 547

Chagos to Mauritius IS36 546

Chagos to Seychelles IS35 546

Chagos to Southeast Asia IT15 508

Christmas Island to Chagos IS32 543

Christmas Island to Cocos Keeling IS31 543

Cocos Keeling to Chagos IS33 544

Cocos Keeling to Mauritius IS34 545

Comoros and Mayotte to Seychelles IS46 553

Cook Islands to Hawaii PT23 361

Cook Islands to New Zealand PS37 405

Cook Islands to Niue and Tonga PS36 403

Cook Islands to Samoa PS35 402

Darwin to Torres Strait IS12 528

Durban to Cape Town IS62 569

East Africa to Red Sea IT17 510

East Africa to Seychelles IS45 553

Eastbound from Greenland AN172 212

Eastbound from Iceland AN173 213

Eastbound from Samoa and Tonga PS47 416

Eastbound routes in Micronesia PN81 333

Eastbound through the Northwest Passage PN19 281

Easter Island to Southern Chile PS17 385

Eastern Caribbean to Brazil AT15 227

Ecuador to Galapagos PS11 378

Ecuador to Peru and Chile PS14 381

England to Scandinavia AN152 190

English Channel to the Baltic AN151 189

Europe to North America (northern routes) AN11 29

Europe to North America (southern routes) AN12 30

Falkland Islands to Antarctica AS33 258

Falkland Islands to Patagonia AS34 259

Falkland Islands to South Georgia AS32 257

Falkland Islands to Tristan da Cunha and Cape Town AS31 257

Fiji to New Caledonia PS54 422

Fiji to New Zealand PS55 423

Fiji to Samoa PS51 419

Fiji to Tonga PS52 420

Fiji to Tuvalu PS56 424

Fiji to Vanuatu PS53 421

Florida and Bahamas to Bermuda AN112 143

Florida and Bahamas to Eastern Caribbean AN113 144

Florida and Bahamas to Panama AN114 146

Florida and Bahamas to Western Caribbean AN115 148

Galapagos to Easter and Gambier Islands PS13 380

Galapagos to Hawaii PT17 353

Galapagos to Marquesas PS12 379

Galapagos to Micronesia PT18 354

Gambier Islands to Marquesas PS21 388

Gambier Islands to Tuamotus and Tahiti PS28 395

Gambier to Austral Islands and Tahiti PS27 394

Gibraltar to Atlantic Morocco AN39 55

Gibraltar to Azores AN36 51

Gibraltar to Bermuda AN37 52

Gibraltar to Canary Islands AN32 47

Gibraltar to Lesser Antilles AN33 48

Gibraltar to Madeira AN31 46

Gibraltar to North America AN38 53

Gibraltar to Northern Europe AN34 49

Gibraltar to Port Said via Malta ME1 596

Gibraltar to Port Said via Messina Strait ME2 597

Gibraltar to Portugal AN35 50

Greenland and Iceland to Spitsbergen AN176 217

Guam to Japan PN85 337

Guam to Palau PN83 336

Guam to the Philippines PN84 337

Gulf of Aden to Eritrea RN2 579

Gulf of Aden to Hodaida RN4 580

Gulf of Aden to Port Sudan RN1 577

Gulf of Mexico and Western Caribbean to Panama AN109 138

Hawaii to Alaska PN31 291

Hawaii to California PN33 293

Hawaii to Eastern Micronesia PN36 296

Hawaii to Guam PN38 298

Hawaii to Hong Kong and China PN39 299

Hawaii to Japan PN37 297

Hawaii to Line Islands PN35 295

Hawaii to Pacific Northwest PN32 292

Hawaii to Panama, Central America and Mexico PN34 294

Hawaii to Samoa and Fiji PT25 363

Hawaii to Tahiti and Marquesas PT24 362

India to Oman IN37 500

India to Red Sea IN31 494

Indonesia to Darwin IS23 540

Indonesia to Torres Strait IS24 541

Ireland and Scotland to Greenland AN157 198

Ireland to Iceland AN156 197

Jamaica to Central America and Mexico AN108 137

Jamaica to Panama AN107 136

Japan to Alaska PN73 326

Japan to China and Hong Kong PN71 323

Japan to Eastern Micronesia PN76 330

Japan to Hawaii PN75 329

Japan to North America PN74 327

Japan to the Philippines PN72 325

Japan to Western Micronesia PN77 331

Kiribati to Tuvalu PT27 365

Lesser Antilles to ABC Islands and Colombia AN72 82

Lesser Antilles to Azores and mainland Europe AN79 97

Lesser Antilles to Bahamas and Florida AN76 91

Lesser Antilles to Bermuda AN78 96

Lesser Antilles to Greater Antilles AN74 85

Lesser Antilles to North America AN77 94

Lesser Antilles to Panama AN73 84

Lesser Antilles to Venezuela AN71 82

Lesser Antilles to Western Caribbean and Gulf of Mexico AN75 88

Madagascar to East Africa IS48 555

Madagascar to Seychelles IS47 554

Madagascar to Southern Africa IS49 556

Madeira to Azores AN43 59

Madeira to Canary Islands AN41 57

Madeira to Gibraltar AN46 61

Madeira to Lesser Antilles AN42 58

Madeira to Northern Europe AN44 59

Madeira to Portugal AN45 60

Maldives to India IN26 491

Maldives to Oman IN27 491

Maldives to Red Sea IN28 492

Marquesas to Hawaii PT21 358

Marquesas to Northern Cooks PS24 391

Marquesas to Tuamotus and Tahiti PS22 389

Massawa to Gulf of Aden RS4 588

Massawa to Port Sudan RN3 580

Mauritius and Réunion to Comoros and East Africa IS56 564

Mauritius and Réunion to South Africa IS57 565

Mauritius to Madagascar IS54 561

Mauritius to Réunion IS51 559

Mauritius to Seychelles IS52 560

Mexico and Central America to Panama PN22 285

Micronesia to Hawaii PN89 340

New Caledonia to Fiji PS71 442

New Caledonia to New South Wales PS73 444

New Caledonia to New Zealand PS72 443

New Caledonia to Queensland and Torres Strait PS74 445

New Caledonia to Vanuatu PS75 446

New South Wales to Fiji PS93 460

New South Wales to New Caledonia PS92 459

New South Wales to New Zealand PS91 458

New South Wales to Vanuatu PS94 461

New Zealand to Cook Islands PS66 437

New Zealand to Fiji PS64 434

New Zealand to New Caledonia PS63 433

New Zealand to New South Wales PS61 430

New Zealand to Queensland PS62 432

New Zealand to Southern Chile PS68 439

New Zealand to Tahiti PS67 438

New Zealand to Tonga PS65 435

North America to Azores AN144 178

North America to Bahamas AN146 181

North America to Bermuda AN143 177

North America to Eastern Caribbean AN145 179

North America to Mediterranean AN142 176

North America to Northern Europe AN141 173

North America to Panama AN147 182

North America to Southern Caribbean AN149 186

North America to Western Caribbean AN148 184

North Queensland to Papua New Guinea PS106 470

North Queensland to Torres Strait PS107 471

Northbound from Argentina AS26 254

Northbound from California PN13 275

Northbound from Cape Town AS11 242

Northbound from Bahamas and Florida AN111 141

Northbound from Chagos IT14 507

Northbound from Chile PS18 386

Northbound from Cocos Keeling IT13 506

Northbound from Darwin IS14 532

Northbound from Galapagos PT16 351

Northbound from Melanesia PT28 366

Northbound from North America AN171 209

Northbound from Patagonia and Falkland Islands AS25 252

Northbound routes from Samoa PS46 414

Northbound routes from South Africa IS64 571

Northbound routes from South Georgia AS39 264

Northbound routes from the Western Caribbean AN105 132

Northbound routes from Tonga PS42 409

Northern Europe to Azores AN19 38

Northern Europe to Canary Islands AN18 37

Northern Europe to Madeira AN17 36

Northern Europe to Mediterranean AN16 35

Northern Europe to Portugal AN15 34

Norway to Faroes and Iceland AN164 204

Norway to Greenland AN165 206

Norway to Spitsbergen AN163 203

Oman to Red Sea IN32 495

Oman to Sri Lanka IN34 497

Pacific Northwest to Alaska PN18 280

Pacific Northwest to Hawaii PN16 278

Pacific Northwest to Marquesas PT15 350

Palau to Guam PN86 338

Palau to Japan PN87 339

Palau to Philippines PN88 340

Panama to Bahamas and Florida AN98 121

Panama to Bermuda and North America AN99 122

Panama to Central America and Mexico PN21 284

Panama to Colombia and ABC Islands AN96 119

Panama to Hispaniola AN94 118

Panama to Jamaica AN93 117

Panama to Lesser Antilles and Venezuela AN97 120

Panama to Marquesas PT13 348

Panama to the Gulf of Mexico AN92 116

Panama to Virgin Islands AN95 119

Panama to Western Caribbean AN91 113

Panama, Central America and Mexico to California and Pacific Northwest PN24 287

Panama, Central America and Mexico to Hawaii PN23 286

Panama, Central America and Mexico to Micronesia PN25 289

Papua New Guinea to Indonesia PS86 456

Papua New Guinea to Queensland PS84 454

Papua New Guinea to Torres Strait PS85 455

Patagonia to Antarctica AS36 261

Patagonia to Falkland Islands AS35 260

Philippines to China and Hong Kong PN52 310

Philippines to Guam PN54 312

Philippines to Japan PN53 311

Philippines to Palau PN55 313

Philippines to Singapore PN51 309

Port Said to Gibraltar via Malta MW1 600

Port Said to Gibraltar via Messina Strait MW2 602

Port Sudan to Gulf of Aden RS2 586

Port Sudan to Massawa RS3 587

Port Sudan to Southern Egypt RN5 581

Portugal to Atlantic Morocco AN26 44

Portugal to Azores AN24 42

Portugal to Canary Islands AN22 41

Portugal to Gibraltar AN21 40

Portugal to Madeira AN23 41

Portugal to Northern Europe AN25 43

Queensland to Fiji PS104 467

Queensland to New Caledonia PS102 465

Queensland to New Zealand PS101 464

Queensland to Solomon Islands PS105 469

Queensland to Vanuatu PS103 466

Red Sea to India IN36 499

Red Sea to Maldives IN35 498

Red Sea to Sri Lanka IN33 496

Réunion to Madagascar IS55 563

Réunion to Seychelles IS53 561

Routes across the Bay of Biscay AN14 33

Routes to Japan and Korea PN63 318

Routes to Micronesia PN64 320

Routes to the Philippines PN62 317

Samoa to Fiji PS45 412

Samoa to Tonga PS44 411

Scandinavia to England AN161 201

Scandinavia to Scotland AN162 202

Scotland to Iceland AN155 196

Scotland to Norway AN153 192

Scotland to Spitsbergen AN154 193

Seychelles to Chagos IS41 549

Seychelles to East Africa IS44 552

Seychelles to Red Sea IT16 509

Seychelles to Southeast Asia IT18 511

Seychelles to West Madagascar and Comoros IS43 551

Singapore to Hong Kong and China PN43 304

Singapore to North Borneo PN45 307

Singapore to the Gulf of Siam PN41 302

Singapore to the Philippines PN44 306

Singapore to Vietnam PN42 303

Singapore to Western Malaysia IN11 478

Society Islands to Cook Islands PS31 397

Society Islands to New Zealand PS34 401

Society Islands to Samoa PS33 400

Society Islands to Tonga PS32 399

Solomon Islands to Papua New Guinea PS81 452

Solomon Islands to Queensland PS83 454

Solomon Islands to Torres Strait PS82 453

South Africa and St Helena to Azores AT28 236

South Africa and St Helena to Eastern Caribbean AT25 234

South Africa and St Helena to Gibraltar AT29 237

South Africa to Réunion and Mauritius IS61 568

South Africa to Western Australia IS63 571

South America to Easter Island PS15 383

South America to Falkland Islands AS22 249

South America to South Africa AS21 248

Southbound from Alaska PN14 276

Southbound from Argentina AS24 251

Southbound from Brazil AS23 250

Southbound from California PN12 274

Southbound from Greenland AN174 215

Southbound from Hong Kong and China PN61 315

Southbound from Iceland AN175 216

Southbound from Northern Europe AN13 31

Southbound from Pacific Northwest PN15 277

Southbound from Panama and Central America PT11 344

Southbound from Seychelles IS42 549

Southbound from Spitsbergen AN177 218

Southbound from Sri Lanka IT23 518

Southbound from the Maldives IT22 516

Southbound from the Red Sea IT21 514

Southbound from Tuvalu PS59 427

Southbound to Melanesia PT29 368

Southeast Asia to South Indian Ocean IT25 521

Southeast Asia to Torres Strait IT24 519

Southern Caribbean to Western Caribbean and Mexico AN106 134

Southern Egypt to Gulf of Aqaba RN7 583

Southern Egypt to Suez RN6 582

Sri Lanka to India IN23 487

Sri Lanka to Maldives IN24 488

Sri Lanka to Oman IN22 487

Sri Lanka to Red Sea IN21 486

Sri Lanka to Southeast Asia IN25 489

St Helena to Ascension AS12 243

St Helena to Brazil AS13 243

St Helena to Cape Verde Islands AT26 235

St Helena to West Africa AT27 235

Suez to Port Sudan RS1 585

Tahiti and Marquesas to Panama PT19 355

Tahiti to Austral Islands PS25 392

Tahiti to Line Islands and Hawaii PT22 359

Tahiti to Southern Chile PS26 393

Tahiti to Tuamotus and Marquesas PS23 390

Thailand to Myanmar IN17 484

Thailand to Singapore IN15 482

Thailand to Sri Lanka IN14 481

Thailand to the Andaman Islands IN16 483

Tonga to Fiji PS41 407

Tonga to New Zealand PS43 410

Torres Strait to Darwin IS11 527

Tuvalu to Kiribati PT26 364

Vanuatu to New Caledonia PS76 447

Vanuatu to Queensland and Torres Strait PS77 448

Vanuatu to Solomon Islands PS78 450

Venezuela and ABC Islands to Colombia and Panama AN104 130

Venezuela and ABC Islands to Lesser Antilles AN101 126

Venezuela and ABC Islands to North America AN103 127

Venezuela and ABC Islands to Virgin Islands AN102 127

Virgin Islands and Puerto Rico to Bermuda AN87 109

Virgin Islands to Azores and mainland Europe AN88 110

Virgin Islands to Bahamas and Florida AN85 106

Virgin Islands to Greater Antilles AN82 100

Virgin Islands to North America AN86 108

Virgin Islands to Panama AN81 99

Virgin Islands to Turks & Caicos AN84 105

Virgin Islands to Western Caribbean and Gulf of Mexico AN83 103

Wallis to Fiji PS57 425

Wallis to Tuvalu PS58 426

West Africa to Azores AN63 75

West Africa to Brazil AT12 224

West Africa to Lesser Antilles AN64 75

West Africa to Northern Brazil and Guyanas AN65 76

Westbound through the Northwest Passage AN178 219

Western Australia to Bass Strait IS17 535

Westbound from Bali IS21 537

Westbound from Cape Town AS15 245

Westbound from Darwin IS15 532

Westbound from Easter Island PS16 384

Westbound from Southern Australia PS95 462

Westbound from Torres Strait IS13 530

Westbound from Western Australia IS16 534

Westbound in Micronesia PN82 335

Western Malaysia to Sri Lanka IN13 480

Western Malaysia to Thailand IN12 479

ADLARD COLES

Bloomsbury Publishing Plc

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This electronic edition published in 2022 by Bloomsbury Publishing Plc

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First published in Great Britain 1987

This ninth edition published 2022

Copyright © Jimmy Cornell 1987, 1990, 1995, 1998, 2008, 2014, 2018, 2020, 2022

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ISBN: 978-1-4729-9309-0 (PB)
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Map by Jörg Baginski, all other maps by Mark Silver

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