SEA KAYAKING

Basic Skills, Paddling Techniques,
and Trip Planning

SEA KAYAKING

Basic Skills, Paddling Techniques,
and Trip Planning

Dan Henderson

THE MOUNTAINEERS BOOKS
is the nonprofit publishing arm of The Mountaineers, an organization founded in 1906 and dedicated to the exploration, preservation, and enjoyment of outdoor and wilderness areas.

1001 SW Klickitat Way, Suite 201, Seattle, WA 98134

© 2012 by Dan Henderson

All rights reserved

First edition, 2012

No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, without permission in writing from the publisher.

Distributed in the United Kingdom by Cordee, www.cordee.co.uk

Manufactured in the United States of America

Copy Editor: Laura Shauger
Cover and Book Design: The Mountaineers Books
Layout: Jennifer Shontz, Red Shoe Design
All photographs by author unless otherwise noted.
Cover photograph: © Fotostock
Back cover photograph: Explore beautiful destinations with friends.
Frontispiece: With skill, even rocky waterways can be navigated with ease.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Henderson, Dan, 1955–

Sea kayaking: basic skills, paddling techniques, and trip planning / Dan Henderson.

    p.           cm.

Includes index.

ISBN 978-1-59485-340-1 (pbk.) — ISBN 978-1-59485-345-6 (ebook)

1. Sea kayaking. I. Title.

GV788.5.H46 2012

797.122'4—dc23

201104297

Printed on recycled paper

ISBN (paperback): 978-1-59485-340-1
ISBN (e-book): 978-1-59485-345-6

Kayaking opens up new horizons for exploration.

Introduction

From my perch at the south end of a small bay on Jones Island, in the San Juan Island archipelago of Washington State, I gaze northward into the slate gray water extending to the horizon. Cedars and madronas cling relentlessly to volcanic crags that plunge steeply into the sea. Cloudy skies with accents of blue stretch to distant peaks. Bright sunlight dances across the landscape; it highlights hills, water, and mountains in turn.

During my voyage to Jones Island, sea lions and seals popped up from a safe distance away to see their neighborhood visitor. Dahl’s porpoises danced across the water in symmetrical arches. Eagles, ospreys, great blue herons, and innumerable other waterfowl soared above me in a display of variety and magnificent colors. I paddled close to shore to see brilliant orange and purple sea stars clinging to rocky outcroppings and tiny crabs scurrying along the beach.

When I kayak, I love the rhythmic surge of the boat as it glides across the water. I feel the power of my body interacting with my equipment and the environment. The exercise increases my fitness, strength, and health. The entire experience cleanses my soul.

Sharing paddling with friends, through trips or just short exercise sessions, is more than special. At times, paddling alone lets me enjoy solitude too.

WHAT EXACTLY IS SEA KAYAKING?

Kayaking is a great way to get on the water with some basic skills and moderately priced equipment. Next to canoeing, kayaking is the most modestly priced boating activity. You can spend years refining your forward stroke and other technical skills, or you can just go out and paddle. What’s most important is that you have fun, and that you pursue the technical and skill development that’s appropriate for the environment in which you paddle and that is meaningful for you.

Sea kayaking is a term used synonymously with kayak touring. Essentially it’s hiking on the water, and the kayak carries all your gear. And like hiking, it can encompass a short day trip, a longer multiday adventure, or a grand expedition. Kayak touring can take place on a calm lake in the middle of town, the wild exposed ocean, and everything in between. It can be quiet and introspective, can give you an adrenaline rush, or can be a combination of these and many other things.

Your sea kayaking experience will be what you decide you want it to be. It will depend on what you want to do, where you want to go, your level of fitness, the skills you develop, and the equipment you acquire. It will depend on where your friends want to paddle with you and where you feel comfortable kayaking alone.

Those who are new to kayaking may view it as strictly an upper body activity, but that assumption significantly limits paddling opportunities and increases the possibility of injury. Kayaking involves not only arm motions but torso, hip, and leg actions as well. Kayakers who engage their entire body extend their endurance, increase their paddling power, manage a wider variety of conditions more readily, and improve their physical health.

To a large degree, kayaking uses core or abdominal strength, from how you sit in the boat to how you apply power by paddling. All kayaking forces are transmitted through the paddler’s trunk, as the kayaker applies power to the paddle blade in the water to move the kayak. The more effectively the kayaker transfers that force, the less effort she will expend and the greater endurance she will achieve.

WHY THIS BOOK?

The kayaking community contains a wide range of information and opinions about how to kayak. Some are valid and others are simply made up. It’s difficult to track how many of these concepts and techniques came to be, but in large part it seems that some people watched great paddlers, especially Olympians, in an attempt to understand what was effective.

But without a solid foundation in exercise science and an understanding of the underlying principles of biomechanics (the applied physics of human movement), sometimes these observers made the wrong connections. There probably was no intent to deceive or guide others along a false path—just an attempt to understand what worked best. At the same time, some kayaking researchers are incorporating the scientific method with the greatest possible rigor. Ultimately, what is most important is what makes sense to you. Try different approaches, give them a thorough good effort, and choose what works best for you.

Because I have studied graduate-level exercise science (biomechanics, neuromechanics, exercise physiology, training methodology, and kinesiology, among other subjects) with a significant focus on paddling, I have incorporated scientifically based approaches to paddling technique, skill development, and physiology in this book. From examining the forward stroke mechanics to understanding equipment design features, to learning to enjoy a variety of water conditions, to developing endurance, I have made every effort to present scientifically based principles in an easy-to-read style.

OTHER VOICES

Throughout this book, I have brought other experts into the discussion, to include additional views on a wide variety of topics. These other voices (in sidebars) offer deeper knowledge and understanding. I am very thankful for each contributor’s enthusiasm about sharing his or her paddling expertise.

SEA KAYAKING SAFELY

Like any outdoor activity, sea kayaking comes with some risks. Wind, weather, currents, and other watercraft top the list. However, with careful planning, preparation, and judgment, sea kayaking can be very safe and enjoyable. While it’s great to gather information, understand concepts, and develop an understanding of sea kayaking, what really matters is improving your own safety, and that requires instruction and practice. Above all, develop your skills and your sense of safe decision making on the water.

This book emphasizes safety, which begins with how you think—your approach to your outdoor experience and state of mind. Safe kayakers are committed to safe and enjoyable paddling. They understand their limitations based on their skill level and experience—they know what they don’t know. They approach safety with confidence and calm resolve instead of counterproductive panicky nervousness. The latter diminishes a kayaker’s ability to respond effectively and safely.

Start by learning basic paddling techniques and equipment adjustments (chapter 1), so that whether you rent, borrow, or own a kayak, you can begin to get the most out of your experience. Always wear a life jacket, also called a personal flotation device (PFD), and carry other basic safety gear. If you try out a variety of kayaks as you are learning, when it comes time to purchase your own boat, you can make a better-informed decision. Take time to learn about and carefully select your kayak and other equipment that will maximize your ability to complete a safe trip, and learn how to transport your kayak on your vehicle in the safest, most secure manner (chapter 2). Learn basic, safe kayaking practices, including boat control and recovery from capsize (chapter 3), which you can readily learn on flatwater, such as lakes.

Over time, develop your paddling and boat-handling skills to match your desired level of expertise (chapter 4) and destinations you wish to explore. Understand how wind, currents, and tides affect you and your kayak (chapter 5) as you prepare to venture farther afield. When you arrive at the beach to launch, assess conditions and determine whether they are appropriate for your kayaking skills (chapter 5), and while you are on the sea, continuously look out for hazards and dangers to keep yourself away from unsafe conditions for which you are unprepared.

Learn navigation skills so that you can more safely enjoy sea kayaking (chapter 6), and always have a backup plan and escape route. Plan your trips with a full understanding of and preparation for the water and weather conditions you expect to find, choosing destinations that are appropriate for your skill level (chapter 7).

Paddling safely does not need to be complex or intimidating. It involves self-awareness, planning, and common sense. And as you become more skilled, you can plan your kayak trips to incrementally improve your skills and fitness for even more effective paddling (chapter 8). Resources at the back of this book include website addresses for tide and current charts and tips on weather forecasting, as well as gear lists and other information to help you enjoy kayaking safely, no matter how close to home or how far afloat your paddling adventures take you.

SEE YOU ON THE WATER!

Kayaking lets you explore beautiful places, get close to spectacular wildlife, magically glide across the water, attain the healthful benefits of exercise, and enjoy solitude, companionship, and peace. Only by paddling can you get close without disturbing wildlife, see shorelines in detail, and still appreciate the grand view. Detail and grandeur—it’s a wonderful combination.

If sea kayaking sounds attractive, you have taken the first step toward enjoying this great activity. Paddling is my favorite thing in the world, closely followed by sharing paddling with others. I’m very grateful for this opportunity to share my insights on sea kayaking and offer a glimpse into this incredible world. I hope to see you on the water and perhaps someday share a paddling adventure with you!

A NOTE ABOUT SAFETY

Safety is an important concern in all outdoor activities. No book can alert you to every hazard or anticipate the limitations of every reader. The descriptions of techniques and procedures in this book are intended to provide general information. This is not a complete text on sea kayaking technique. Nothing substitutes for formal instruction, routine practice, and plenty of experience. When you follow any of the procedures described here, you assume responsibility for your own safety. Use this book as a general guide to further information.

— The Mountaineers Books

Kayaking is best when sharing it with friends.

CHAPTER 1

Getting Started: Gear and Paddling Basics

Whether you’re new to kayaking and renting or borrowing a boat or have been kayaking for a while, a review of the fundamentals can enhance the effectiveness of your paddling skills and enjoyment of the entire experience. Kayak rigging and features that allow adjustments for your body size, as well as paddles and important safety gear, are the first components of gear that you will learn to use. You will also learn about techniques for getting into the kayak and onto flatwater.

Additionally, you’ll learn about two basic paddling styles—horizontal and vertical—as well as how to move the kayak in your desired direction: paddling straight, starting and stopping, and turning will get you started. Learning about these basic skills, along with practice, helps prepare you for adventures on calm and protected waterways and helps lay the foundation for skill development that will allow you to expand your horizons.

Fig. 1-1 Parts of a kayak

BASIC EQUIPMENT

Sea kayaks are outfitted with a variety of components that allow you to be safer, have better control over your boat, and be more comfortable. Since waterways constantly change and are often unpredictable, a commitment to safety is critical in learning to kayak—plan and prepare for the worst possible occurrences and enjoy your paddling with the knowledge and confidence that you can handle most any situation you encounter. Kayaks should be outfitted with such safety features as T-handles, perimeter lines, and forward and aft internal bulkheads. Most manufacturers have designed adjustable kayak components, such as foot pedals and seats, so that you can change their positions once you’re on the water. But when you’re starting out, it’s a lot easier to adjust them before you launch.

PERIMETER LINES

Perimeter deck lines (cord or thin rope attached to the kayak’s deck) make it easier to grab the boat if you tip over or if you are rescuing another kayaker who is in the water. The safest kayaks have perimeter lines covering the boat’s entire length on both sides of the deck close to the edge, except in the cockpit area, because here you can simply grab the coaming around the cockpit. Deck lines should be a size that’s easy to grab hold of with wet and cold fingers; 7 millimeters (¼ inch) is a common size. They should be anchored to the kayak deck at intervals that keep the line fairly straight and out of the water, yet loose enough so that the line is easy to grab.

Fig. 1-2 Perimeter deck lines and T-handles

T-HANDLES

T-handles are short wood or plastic bars attached to the kayak by a short loop of nylon cord. A safety feature helpful in rescues, they are installed at the pointed ends of a kayak, where the deck lines are difficult to grab. T-handles hang past the end of the kayak and can twist and untwist, allowing a kayaker in the water to hold on even if he is rolling in rougher water. Additionally, T-handles provide an easy way for two people to carry a kayak. They can also serve as a site to tie a kayak for transport on a vehicle.

DECK BUNGEE CORDS

Deck bungee cords are installed in a crisscross pattern to hold items, such as charts and water bottles, in a readily accessible location. But because bungee cords do not firmly fasten items on the deck, objects should also be securely attached with clips or carabiners. Take care not to load the deck with lots of gear; the added height (freeboard) of items stowed on the deck increases the effect of wind on the kayak and raises the boat’s center of mass, reducing stability. Plus, gear tends to loosen over the course of a day’s paddle and when paddling through waves.

ADJUSTING YOUR SITTING POSITION

Kayaks come with a seat, usually with a backrest that hinges at the bottom, where it meets the seat. The backrest can be adjusted to tilt forward or backward, and be raised up and down to place you in the most comfortable sitting position. Instead of a backrest, some seats have a back band attached on each side of the seat (but not at the bottom) that can be tightened or loosened, depending on how much support you want. Back bands usually allow more freedom of movement and torso rotation than a backrest.

How you sit in a kayak is largely a function of your paddling style (horizontal or vertical, covered later in this chapter), your kayak’s seat design, and your abdominal strength. Most kayak seat designs tend to force you to recline a bit; in this position, a backrest helps support your lower back and reduce lower back strain. However, this sitting position also tends to disengage your abdominal muscles, making it difficult to involve them in maintaining stability and propelling your kayak.

To get the most boat movement for any given effort, skilled kayakers adopt an upright sitting position and perhaps even tilt their pelvis slightly forward (anterior pelvic tilt). Advanced paddlers who sit in such a position often do not use a backrest for support, but instead rely on their abdominal muscles and hip flexors to maintain an upright position—very much like sitting on an exercise ball. They can freely rotate their upper body and use the greater power of leg drive and torso rotation (particularly their abdominal strength) to move the kayak forward. Because sitting in an upright position engages a balance between abdominal and lower back muscles, this position also helps protect kayakers from lower back strain.

Fig. 1-3 Sit upright in the kayak.

ADJUSTING YOUR FOOT POSITION

Thigh braces, located inside the kayak under the deck toward the front and sides of the cockpit, act as additional contact points to help you hold your thighs in a fixed position. In the early stages of your development as a kayaker, they help with stability, by providing a surface against which you can press your legs to pull the kayak back under your center of mass. As you advance, you’ll engage your core and legs more and more to propel and maneuver your kayak (discussed in chapter 2).

Foot pedals (also called footrests) mounted inside the kayak on the side of the boat serve as a power transfer point in most kayaks and as rudder control in sea kayaks equipped with rudders to facilitate steering. You can raise or lower the rudder while you are sitting in your kayak, usually through a cord system; to avoid damage, make sure the rudder is retracted when setting the kayak on the ground.

Foot pedal positions can be adjusted to accommodate your leg length. You can adjust some foot pedal systems while you sit in the boat by moving the pedal with your foot; to adjust others you must get out of the boat, reach inside it, and move the pedals with your hands. Manufacturers offer a wide variety of foot pedal models that have unique adjustment characteristics. However, all have some type of foot pedal track attached to the inside of the kayak and a pedal that can adjust forward and backward within the track.

Some type of release mechanism (a lever, tab, or pin) on the pedal itself allows the pedal to move in the track. Pulling or unlocking the release mechanism with your hand disengages the part of the pedal that locks it into position. You can then slide the pedal forward or backward in the track. When you lock or let go of the pedal release mechanism, the pedal locks into position.

A simple way to adjust foot pedals is to place the kayak on a surface on the ground that will not damage your boat, such as grass or sand, and sit in the kayak. Check the foot pedal position and get an idea if it needs to be moved forward or backward. When you sit in the kayak, with your legs touching the thigh braces, your feet should be in a comfortable position, inclined slightly forward (plantar flexed) so you do not have to stretch forward to use the pedal or have the pedal jam your foot back (dorsal flexed). Adjust the pedals so your feet are in a neutral, comfortable, and relaxed position.

SPRAY SKIRTS

Spray skirts are fabric coverings usually made of coated nylon or neoprene that enclose the cockpit opening with a deck and fit around a kayaker’s torso with a tube. Spray skirts reduce the amount of water that gets into the cockpit—and onto your lap. A spray skirt only resists water penetration—no skirt is completely waterproof. Skirts are sized for the wide variety of kayak cockpit openings, as well as paddlers’ bodies.

The edge of the skirt in contact with the boat has a sewn-in bungee or extra neoprene layer that fits under the cockpit rim. A grab loop is sewn into the front of the skirt. A spray skirt generally is worn under a kayaker’s life jacket, and held in place with a Velcro, bungee, or drawstring waistband built into the tube, or suspenders. If you have a very short waist and wear a spray skirt under a life jacket, it may uncomfortably push the life jacket up into your chin. In this case you may prefer to wear the skirt outside your life jacket.

To secure the spray skirt, when you are seated in the cockpit, lean back to fit the back of the skirt around the back of the cockpit rim, then work the edge of the skirt under the rim while following the cockpit rim forward. When your hands are close to the front of the cockpit rim, slide your hands to the grab loop, lean forward to secure the front of the skirt under the rim, and then check that the entire edge of the skirt is secure and the grab loop is readily available. It’s important to keep the loop sticking out and accessible—you need to use the loop to pull off the spray skirt when it’s time to get out of the boat.

While spray skirts fit snugly around the cockpit rim, they come off fairly easily with a simple forward tug on the grab loop. To remove the spray skirt, simply grab the loop and lean forward while stretching the skirt forward. Once the front of the spray skirt deck is clear of the cockpit rim, pull the grab loop away from the kayak and back toward you. Give the loop a tug to pop the spray skirt off the rest of the cockpit rim. The skirt will pop right off!

PADDLES

Kayak paddles consist of a shaft and two blades; they come in various materials, weights, lengths, shapes, and sizes. Paddles with long, narrow blades are designed for a more horizontal paddling style; those with shorter, wider blades are for a more vertical paddling style (more on paddling styles later in this chapter). These shapes affect the ease of getting the blade into and out of the water while paddling. Choose a paddle based on your paddling style and budget.

MATERIALS

Paddles are made of a range of materials, from wood to injected plastic to composite fiberglass to composite Kevlar and carbon graphite. The choice of material affects the paddle’s weight, stiffness, and durability. Injected plastic paddles tend to be heavier, more flexible, and very durable. They come in lots of shapes and are the least expensive. Fiberglass and wood paddles offer lighter weight and greater stiffness, with good durability. Kevlar and carbon graphite paddles are the lightest (for example, 23 ounces, or 650 grams) and stiffest, but they tend to be a little more brittle, and the blades will chip if they are not cared for properly.

Don’t use a paddle to push off the ground and rocks or to lean on while you’re standing onshore. Paddles are designed to help you grab the water and move your kayak. Using a paddle as a push pole or leaning staff can significantly damage the paddle, reduce its performance, and shorten its usable life.

Generally, the stiffer the paddle, in both blade and shaft, the more directly the paddling force is converted to boat movement. Many recreational paddlers prefer a more flexible paddle shaft to soften the impact on their muscles and joints. Using a shaft that is lighter weight and less rigid will help. However, less of the paddling effort results in boat movement.

Fig. 1-4 Parts of a kayak paddle

SIZES

Sizing a paddle involves three primary considerations—blade size, shaft diameter, and paddle length. Consider your strength, the distance you’ll be paddling, and the level of paddling intensity to determine the best blade size for you. A middle-sized blade that is appropriate for the vast majority of kayakers has a surface area of about 100 square inches (680 square centimeters). Larger blades tend to be favored by stronger, more aggressive paddlers, while paddlers who adopt a more relaxed approach tend to prefer smaller blades.

Fig. 1-5 a. A paddle with a shorter, wider blade for vertical-style paddling;
b. A paddle with a longer, narrower blade for horizontal-style paddling

Paddle shafts are available in two or three diameters to accommodate differences in hand size. The shaft should fit comfortably in your hand. You should be able to relax your grip while the blades are in the air as you transition from side to side, and to firmly grip the shaft when you wish to apply power.

Many people have written formulas and guidelines to determine the paddle length (blades and shaft) appropriate for a particular kayaker, but it’s difficult to gauge without getting into your kayak and paddling. Your kayak width along with your sitting height above the water, a function of torso length and kayak-seat height, are critical components in selecting your paddle length; the best approach is to have trained eyes watch as you paddle with different paddles.

When you use a paddle of optimal length, the entire blade will readily immerse in the water at the beginning of the stroke (catch), keep the neck of the paddle at the surface throughout the stroke, and then quickly and cleanly exit the water. If the paddle is too long, the catch will be easy, but during the stroke, the blade will go deeper and deeper into the water, making the exit problematic. If the paddle is too short, it will be tough to immerse the blade in the water at the catch. The blade will gradually become fully immersed during the stroke, but the blade’s full effect will be available only during the later part of the stroke.

BLADES

Kayak paddle blades have a power face, back, tip, and neck. The power face, often concave, is the side facing the kayaker. Convex in shape, the back of the blade (relative to the front power face) faces away from the kayaker. The tip is the end of the paddle and farthest away from the center, while the neck is the part attached to the shaft.

Kayak paddle blades are usually asymmetrical along the length of the shaft, with the outboard side, or top side, larger than the bottom, or inboard side. The outboard side tends to have a more pointed end, while the inboard side is more flat or rounded, to match the angle of entry into the water. This design allows paddle blades to go into the water smoothly and “grab” the water in a stable manner without twisting (pitching). Pitching occurs when the blade enters the water or is pulled through the water in a way that causes the shaft to twist in your hands. You can imagine the strength drain on your gripping muscles if you must constantly resist twisting.

Kayak paddle blades are also usually curved along their length to help them grab and hold their position in the water throughout a wide variety of blade orientations. For example, when a kayaker reaches ahead, with the blade extended forward, the curved, lower portion of the blade near the end enters the water with a more vertical orientation. Later in the stroke, when the paddle is oriented more vertically, the middle part of the blade is at the same angle as the shaft. Blades may also be curved along their width. An inward curve creates more of a cup shape (a spoonblade), resulting in less slip through the water. An outward curve, or dihedral, makes the blade more stable in the water by allowing water to spill off the blade. Power is lost, however, as the water spills off the blade.

Fig. 1-6 a. A feathered kayak paddle; b. An unfeathered kayak paddle
(Photo by Steve Jones)

When the blades are positioned on the same plane along the axis of the paddle shaft (both blades face the same direction at the same angle), the paddle blade orientation is called unfeathered. Generally, unfeathered paddles are used in horizontal-style paddling. When one blade’s angle along the horizontal axis of the paddle shaft is offset by between 40 and 70 degrees (60 degrees is most common) compared to the other blade (in other words, the blades face the same direction, but not at the same angle), the blade orientation is called feathered. Feathered paddles are more commonly used in vertical-style paddling. Feathered paddles let kayakers keep their wrists relatively straight throughout the stroke cycle, while incorporating a vertical-paddling style.

TAKE-APART PADDLES

Take-apart paddles are often manufactured in two or more pieces to make them more convenient to transport. Before launching, you must assemble the pieces into a complete paddle. The pieces may be secured with a spring-loaded pin that pops through a hole, a tightening nut, a hose clamp-type mechanism, or a lever. Some take-apart paddles even have adjustable feathering and paddle lengths. A take-apart paddle is also a great spare paddle, a key safety item that can be readily stored under the deck bungees.

SAFETY EQUIPMENT

The most important piece of kayaking safety equipment is the kayaker. It is critical that you keep a clear head, assess the conditions, have a good sense of your paddling abilities, and make wise decisions based on sound safety principles. The next primary piece of safety equipment is the kayak itself: its flotation (covered in chapter 2), perimeter deck lines, and T-handles. If you capsize, stay with the kayak. Even if you cannot reenter, it provides flotation and makes you more visible to those who could assist.

LIFE JACKET

Every boater is required by law to carry a life jacket or Type I, II, or III PFD, and kayakers should always wear one when paddling. If you end up in the water, it will help keep you at the surface. Life jackets designed specifically for kayaking have a short waist so that the jacket does not push up into the paddler’s chin, armholes that allow free arm movement, and lots of webbing and buckle adjustments for a snug and comfortable fit. They also include pockets to hold items such as signaling devices and snacks.

SIGNALING DEVICES

Another legal boating requirement is a sound-producing device, such as a whistle or small air horn. Kayakers most commonly use a whistle, which they attach to their life jackets with a tether. Visual signals, including flares, smokes, dyes, a mirror, and flag, are excellent supplements to sounds. Many shops offer small, lightweight safety kits that include these components.

OTHER BASIC SAFETY GEAR

Kayakers carry a bilge pump to quickly pump out most of the water that gets into the boat when they capsize or launch in rougher conditions. To use a pump, place the base in the water, pull the T-handle up, and press it down to draw water into the pump and then squirt it out the exhaust. A sponge can soak up the last bit of water that the pump cannot.

THE MOUNTAINEERS TEN ESSENTIALS

With a great focus on safety, the Mountaineers Sea Kayakers have established their Ten Essentials. See the appendix for a complete list of Mountaineers required and recommended essentials.

1. Chart

2. Compass

3. Coast Guard-approved navigation light for kayaking between sunset and sunrise; flashlight or headlamp for camping.

4. Extra food and water: Bring a lunch for day paddles, but also carry an energy bar, nuts, or fruit in case you are stuck overnight. Carry at least 2 liters of water on day trips, more on hot days.

5. Waterproof matches: Carry a quantity of wooden matches, as well as a small lighter, in a watertight container.

6. Extra clothes: Carry an extra fleece jacket, a pair of socks, gloves, and warm hat. A pair of dry tennis shoes or sandals is often comfortable for the beach.

7. Sunglasses

8. First-aid kit

9. Pocketknife

10. Fire starter

A paddle float slides over the blade on either end of the paddle and is secured with a bungee cord or webbing strap. Paddle floats come in two main styles: solid foam or inflatable. The paddle float allows the paddle to act as an outrigger to increase stability when a kayaker capsizes and wants to get back into the boat. (Procedures for self-rescue are discussed in chapter 3.)

CLOTHING

Choose what to wear when paddling based on water and air temperature, proximity to being rescued if you get into trouble, and the strength of the paddlers who accompany you. The primary function of paddling apparel, which can include a base layer, an insulating layer, and an outer layer, is protection from the elements.

In northern and southern latitudes the primary risk is cold water, so dress so that you can be immersed in the water. Wear insulating layers under clothing that protect from cold exposure. Fabrics such as wool, polypropylene, and fleece are great insulators; a dry suit is a barrier against the cooling effects of water contact. It can take very little time in chilly water—or even just wet conditions—for hypothermia to strike if you’re not dressed appropriately. Avoid fabrics, such as cotton, that pull heat energy from your body when wet.

Where the water is warmer, sun exposure is the primary concern. Wear a hat and loosely fitting clothing that block the sun’s harmful effects. Sunscreen, which can interfere with sweating and reduce the body’s natural ability to cool itself, should be limited to areas that loose fitting clothing cannot protect.

BASE LAYER

A base layer acts primarily as a rash guard, to protect your skin from abrasion and, if worn by itself, the sun. Base layer clothing (long underwear top and bottom, for instance) is usually made of a very thin polyethylene knit that moves freely with your skin without drag or chafing and often offers some ultraviolet (UV) barrier. In hot, humid climates, where protection from the sun is a priority, kayakers often wear only a base layer that includes a UV barrier to cover larger areas of the skin, then apply sunscreen to smaller regions not covered by clothing, such as the neck, face, and back of the hands.

INSULATING LAYER

In colder climates, where the goal is to maintain body heat both in and out of the water, add insulating (as well as outer) layers to a base layer. Insulating layers that provide warmth include vests and lightweight “sweaters” made of materials, such as Capilene and fleece. Insulating layers increase the static air space surrounding the body, and body heat warms this region.

OUTER LAYER

Outer layers keep outside air from moving into and displacing the dead air space trapped by insulating layers. Paddling jackets, especially those made of breathable fabrics that allow moisture to escape from the dead air space, when combined with insulating layers, very effectively maintain body temperature in colder climates.

The ultimate in outer layer apparel, the dry suit, like the paddling jacket, maintains the dead air space created by the insulating layers. A dry suit also keeps the water out by using seam-sealed waterproof fabrics, neoprene or latex neck and wrist gaskets, and either sewn-in bootees or ankle gaskets. Dry suits, especially those made with breathable fabrics, such as Gore-Tex, are in fact dry.

Wet suits offer good protection from the cold by allowing a layer of water to enter between the suit and your skin. Your body heats the water, reducing additional heat loss. When out of the water and paddling a kayak, however, wet suits tend to feel clammy and sticky because there is no water layer between the suit and your skin. They also must fit very well or they’re likely to chafe your skin on the inside of moving joints. While much less comfortable than a dry suit, they are also much less expensive and offer better protection from cold than layering clothing with a paddling jacket as an outer layer when you are in the water.

Additional outer layer items include hats, gloves, and footwear. Hats protect from the sun; a brim or bill helps to shield eyes from the sun, wind, and rain. A brim that extends around the sides and back of your head also protects your neck from the elements. Hats should be made of a material, such as nylon, that holds its shape and dries quickly.

Fig. 1-7 Pogies help keep your hands warm.

Many kayakers like to wear gloves to protect their hands from cold or abrasion and help prevent calluses, while others prefer direct hand contact with the paddle. An alternative is pogies: mitts that extend over the hands, wrists, and a portion of the paddle shaft. Once pogies are fitted onto the paddle shaft, kayakers slide their hands into the pogie tube, where they can grasp the paddle. Pogies allow direct hand contact with the paddle while offering protection from wind. Offered in either nylon (sometimes fleece lined) or neoprene, pogies can also provide insulation.

FOOTWEAR

Footwear is critical to protect your feet and the attached bootie portion of a dry suit when you’re paddling, walking, and especially carrying equipment, over rough and jagged surfaces. Kayakers often launch from rocky, moss-covered beaches. Footwear with soles that provide support and have firm footing keep you from slipping and falling. If you have large feet, always test your footwear to see if it fits into your kayak. Footwear with large toes and heels is especially difficult to fit into kayaks.

Fig. 1-8 High, medium, and short boots

DRESSING FOR THE WATER: DRY SUITS

KARL KOHAGEN

A kayaker since 1985, Karl Kohagan is a past ACA instructor who has been a Kokatat sales representative for more than twenty years. He has been involved with the design and testing of kayaking apparel for many years and has a great deal of experience in paddling in cold waters, including those of Alaska, British Columbia, Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and Montana, as well as in California and Arizona. He has completed his British Canoe Union (BCU) 2Star Award, completed Rescue 3 Swift Water Technician I, river rescue training, and BCU Rescue course.

It’s a warm, sunny day in August with air temperatures in the high 70s to low 80s; the water temperature is 54 degrees. How do I dress for the water? Sea kayaking is one of the most challenging sports to dress for.

Fortunately, modern technology has given us some sophisticated clothing solutions in the form of dry suits made of waterproof, breathable fabrics (like Gore-Tex). Though dry suits are expensive and require periodic maintenance, by carefully layering synthetic underwear and thin fleece, you will be protected should you end up in the water accidentally, yet still be relatively comfortable most of the time.

Ultimately the question of whether to dress for the water or not is a question of risk assessment (judgment of the conditions) and risk management (your ability to handle those conditions). When making this decision, ask yourself some questions. Am I solo paddling? If your answer is yes, give yourself that extra margin of safety when dressing for the water. Am I making a long, exposed crossing that may be at the limits of my ability? Do I want to become a better paddler and take classes and learn how to brace and roll? Will I be interacting with the water? Do I have an important engagement come Monday morning (job, interview, etc.) that may cloud my judgment on Sunday afternoon and influence me to make a dumb decision about whether to stay put on a beach in marginal conditions? Answering “yes” to any of these questions means you might need a dry suit. Consider these and other issues when making this purchase.

Staying well hydrated is very important to your comfort and overall health and well-being. A paddler is much more likely to stay hydrated if his suit has a relief zipper. Another strategy for keeping cool is to dip a hat in the water; the resulting evaporative cooling is very effective. Splashing water on yourself or, better yet, rolling, will increase evaporative cooling.

It’s important to remember that some form of insulation must be worn under a dry suit. In and of itself, it will not keep you warm in cold water. Its versatility lies in your ability to fine-tune and dial in the amount of insulation required, depending on the prevailing conditions.

Multiple, thin layers of polyester underwear and fleece help paddlers feel comfortable in a broad range of climatic conditions. Short-sleeve fleece shirts and vests together with fleece shorts help keep vital core areas warm, while enabling the arms and legs to vent excess heat. Hoods are useful for thermal regulation; they can help you conserve tremendous amounts of heat. Without a hood—or a hat—the head is free to radiate heat.

LAUNCHING AND LANDING

How you launch and land your kayak depends largely on the shoreline, weather, and water conditions. But it also depends on how you wish to care for your kayak and paddle. You best protect your equipment by minimizing ground contact, especially when you are in the boat. Dragging your kayak across the ground, launching by sliding down the beach and into the water, and digging your paddle into the ground to move the kayak cause significant wear and damage to your equipment, thereby reducing performance and shortening its usable life.

There are situations where you may need to drag your boat, such as when it’s fully loaded and you want to move it a short distance toward the water’s edge when launching, and away when landing. Also, when you are launching and landing in surf, you will likely have to drag your boat to or from the water a short distance.

Choose your launching and landing sites with care. Whenever possible, choose gently sloping, sandy beaches with no sharp rocks or other hazards. To protect your kayak as much as possible when you launch, carry it to the water and wade into the water up to about six to nine inches deep. Set the kayak in the water parallel to the beach so that it floats, and then enter. When you land, reverse this process by paddling in parallel to the beach, exiting while the kayak floats, and then carrying it up the beach.

ENTERING AND EXITING

Techniques for entering and exiting your kayak focus on increasing your stability and holding the kayak in a fixed and stable position. If your cockpit is large enough or is keyhole shaped, you can straddle the kayak with a foot on each side of the cockpit, squat down, and place your hands on each side of the boat. Then, with equal weight on both hands, lower yourself onto the seat. Next, one at a time lift your legs and slide them into the kayak, and place your feet on the footrests.

If you need additional stability, once you have your kayak floating parallel to the shore, place the paddle shaft across the boat, on the deck, just aft of the cockpit coaming, with a blade resting on the shore. Many manufacturers design a place for the paddle shaft to rest. If the beach has a gradual slope, you can straddle the kayak with one foot on each side of the cockpit.

Fig. 1-9 Entering a kayak on a steeper shore
a. Place water-side hand on back of the cockpit and hold the paddleshaft and cockpit rim with shore-side hand;
b. Shift your water-side leg into the cockpit;
c. Slide your shore-side foot into the cockpit;
d. Slide both feet farther into the kayak;
e. Lower yourself onto the seat and place your feet on the footrests. (Photos by Steve James)

If you’re launching from a steeper beach, you can stand next to the kayak and enter from the shore side. Facing forward, squat down and place the hand that’s toward the water on the back of the cockpit, right in the center of the kayak, and grasp the paddle shaft and cockpit rim (Fig. 1-9a). Place the hand that’s on the shore side on the paddle shaft between the boat and blade that’s resting on the beach. Keep most of your weight on the hand over the kayak, and enough weight on the other hand to keep the kayak stable. Move your buttocks over the hand resting on the boat and place your feet, one at a time, in the kayak (Fig. 1-9 b and c). Then slide your feet forward into the cockpit (Fig. 1-9d). As your buttocks clear the back deck, lower yourself into the cockpit and onto the seat (Fig. 1-9e). Finally, place your feet on the footrests.

PADDLING BASICS

Basic maneuvering strokes, including the forward stroke, are very easy. To move a kayak, the paddler simply places the blade in the water and pulls the kayak toward or pushes the kayak away from the blade. The blade is the anchor point and moves very little in the water; the kayak moves relative to the paddle. Using a rudder greatly simplifies steering. This is why most anyone can hop into a kayak and get it to move pretty much where they want.

Position the paddle blade in a way that provides the greatest resistance to move the kayak in the desired direction. For example, if you want to move forward, you reach ahead, place the blade in the water perpendicular to the length of the kayak, and pull the kayak forward past the blade. To move sideways, you reach to the side, place the blade in the water parallel to the kayak, and pull the kayak toward the blade. You pull or push against the largest surface area of the paddle blade.

STROKE CYCLE

A kayak paddling stroke has two phases: power application and recovery. Both have several components, with specific functions and names. The power application phase begins with the entry of the blade into the water, called the catch. Moving the kayak past the paddle blade in the water involves a pulling force with the onside (side on which you are paddling) and a loading force (directed down the length of the paddle shaft to the tip of the blade) with both hands. The recovery phase includes the exit (the act of taking the blade out of the water), glide (the kayak’s propelled movement), and setup (preparing for the next stroke). These terms are used throughout to specify how to make your paddling strokes more effective and efficient.

Fig. 1-10 Let your kayak glide.
(Photo by Steve Jones)

Every kayak has some capacity to glide. Generally, the longer and narrower the kayak, the better it glides. When you pause a bit with the paddle in the air between strokes, the kayak will continue its forward movement with no effort on your part. As the kayak begins to slow, set up to take the next stroke. This approach will reduce fatigue during a long day’s paddle.

Your effort will be more effective if you adjust how you position the blade in the water throughout the stroke, how you move your body, and how you apply power. By incorporating principles of efficiency, you can more than double the effect of your efforts, especially when you’re moving forward. Efficiency is defined as maximizing kayak travel through the water, given a level of expended effort. This chapter focuses on the basics; skill development is covered in chapter 4.

PADDLING STYLES

Paddling style can be generally divided into two categories, vertical and horizontal, based on how the blade is oriented in the water. This orientation is the angle created by the paddle and the surface of the water toward the kayak’s centerline. Both styles are explained in detail later in this chapter, but below is a general overview.

Vertical-style paddling is characterized by a greater angle between the paddle and the water. This approach orients the blade in the water to support kayak movement for a longer portion of the forward stroke, it allows you to apply body weight to add power (the vertical component of force application), and it engages your skeletal system (bones) to support the transfer of force. It does, however, require some shoulder strength (especially in your middle deltoids) to hold the paddle in position, and abdominal strength to support the loading of your body weight. Almost everyone can develop the strength to incorporate the vertical style into their stroke.

Horizontal-style paddling focuses on keeping your hands lower so a low brace is more readily available. It requires less strength, especially from the middle deltoids across the tops of your shoulders. Drawbacks are that there is only one moment in the forward stroke where the paddle blade is in its optimal position, the skeletal system is less involved in the transfer of force, and it’s not possible to load your body weight to add power.

HOLDING THE PADDLE

In both vertical and horizontal styles, kayakers position their hands along the paddle shaft in a very similar fashion.

ESTABLISH YOUR HAND POSITION

First, your hands should be equidistant from the blades. If your hands are shifted toward one end of the shaft or the other, the blade will travel in the water closer to the kayak on the shorter side than the longer side. The farther from the side of the kayak you paddle, the more it tends to turn away from that side. Therefore, with your hands in a nonequidistant position, the kayak will gradually turn away from the side with the longer distance from hands to blade.

To find your hand position along the shaft, grasp the shaft with both hands and raise the paddle above your head with elbows bent slightly less than 90 degrees. For a consistent reference, kayakers often wrap electrical tape around their paddle shaft on each side of their hand position. This position allows for maximum power and blade movement control.

If your hands are too close together, it’s very difficult to apply power. To demonstrate this, hold the paddle with your hands right next to each other in the middle of the shaft and then paddle. You will quickly find that it’s very difficult to apply any power to the stroke and to control the position of the blade in the water. If your hands are too far apart, your top hand must be way up in the air or far to the side while paddling. Try placing both hands right next to the blades while paddling—it’s very cumbersome.

Fig 1-11 a. High-angle catch;
b. Low-angle catch

Fig. 1-12 Hold the paddle over your head to determine optimal hand spacing.
(Photo by Steve Jones)

For vertical-style paddling, use a hand position that divides the shaft into thirds: a third outside each of your hands and the remaining third between your hands. Find your position on the shaft, mark it with electrical tape on each side of your hands, and learn to rely on this consistent hand position. You can use paddles of many different lengths in the horizontal style; how your hands divide the shaft depends on the paddle length.

HOLD THE BLADES RIGHT SIDE UP

Remember that most kayak paddle blades are asymmetrical lengthwise to minimize pitching: The outboard or top side is larger than the inboard or bottom side. The outboard side usually has a more pointed end; the inboard side is more flat or rounded, to match the angle of entry into the water. Be sure to hold the paddle right side up.

GRASP FIRMLY TO STROKE AND RELAX TO GLIDE

Grasp the paddle firmly with both hands during the power application phase to transmit force more effectively and to spread the load over a larger hand surface area. Then between strokes, during the recovery phase, relax the hands to reduce muscle fatigue.

HORIZONTAL-STYLE PADDLING

Relaxed touring or low-angle-style paddling involves holding the paddle horizontally. This style is very easy to learn and requires little strength. On the downside, this technique applies force in the direction of travel for only a moment during a paddle stroke, engages little of the paddler’s skeletal system to support the transfer of force, and does not allow a paddler to load body weight onto the paddle to increase power.

LOWER PADDLE POSITION

In horizontal-style paddling, both hands tend to be positioned below chest height, just above the kayak deck. Because the hands are lower, and therefore the angle from the paddle shaft to the water is smaller, the blade tends to be farther away from the kayak centerline than in vertical-style paddling. Because the blades are farther from the centerline, the paddle shaft tends to be longer.

UNFEATHERED PADDLE

Horizontal style usually uses an unfeathered paddle, which means that the blades are on the same plane rather than offset. Generally, the lower you hold your top hand and the more horizontally the paddle is oriented, the less the blades are feathered.

STROKES TO MOVE FORWARD

Because a kayaker holds his hands relatively low, he cannot pull the kayak past the paddle with the blade right next to the kayak. Instead, he reaches ahead and places the blade in the water next to the boat. He then forms an arc, or sweep pattern, in the water during the power phase, with the kayak moving away from the paddle toward the front of the stroke and back toward the paddle at the end of the stroke. While this approach is quite inefficient, it helps beginning kayakers easily learn and gain directional control over their kayaks.

VERTICAL-STYLE PADDLING

Active touring or high-angle-style paddling involves holding the paddle blade more vertically. This style applies force in the direction of travel for a longer period during a paddle stroke, engages the paddler’s skeletal system to support the transfer of force, and allows a paddler to load body weight onto the paddle to increase power. This chapter covers the basics; chapter 4 expands on how to further develop a vertical paddling style.

RAISED PADDLE POSITION

In vertical-style paddling, a paddler holds her top, or offside, hand (the hand away from the paddling side) about ten inches in front of her forehead for the entire power application phase (catch and load) until the stroke exit, as the pulling, or onside, hand reaches shoulder level. Chapter 4 discusses this technique in more detail, but for now, simply visualize that the top hand stays up to keep the paddle vertical. This approach requires some strength, particularly across the top of the shoulders (middle deltoids), which can easily be developed over time with practice.

FEATHERED PADDLE

Vertical-style paddling usually incorporates a feathered paddle, which allows kayakers to keep their wrists straight throughout the entire paddling stroke cycle. Also, a feathered paddle allows kayakers to keep their control hand in the same position on the shaft, with a hand position that’s consistent relative to the blade. This allows the paddler to learn the blade position by feel, rather than having to look at the blade.

HEALTHY WRIST POSITION

Your forearms have two bones (radius and ulna) that rotate around each other, which allows your forearms to rotate inward (pronate) and outward (supinate). The healthiest position for your wrists is straight. When a stroke is taken on the control hand side, the forearm of the control hand is in a nearly neutral or straight position. When preparing to take a stroke on the other side, kayakers pronate their control hand forearm, thereby squaring the offside blade and keeping their wrists straight. Feathered paddles are designed so that paddlers can keep their wrists straight throughout the entire stroke cycle.

CONTROL HAND

The paddle feather is set to either a right or left control. The choice of right or left control depends on which you choose to learn—there is no correlation between control hand and dominant handedness. For a right-control paddle, when the right blade is vertical, the power face (concave side) of the left blade will face up.

To hold a right-control feathered paddle, hold the paddle in front of you with the right blade vertical and the left blade facing up (the concave side oriented up). With your right hand, grasp the shaft so that the back of your right hand (metacarpals) is perpendicular to the right blade. Your right hand remains in this same consistent position, often referred to as the “home” position, on the shaft at all times, no matter which side you are paddling on or what direction you’re moving your kayak. In this position, your wrist is straight when you are paddling on the right side. Between strokes and when transitioning from one paddling side to the other, allow the shaft of the paddle to rotate freely in your left (noncontrol) hand to keep that wrist straight as well. When it’s time to apply power, grasp the paddle shaft firmly with both hands.

Fig. 1-13 Home position on a feathered paddle
(Photo by Steve Jones)

NONCONTROL HAND

To shift from paddling on the right side to the left side, keep your wrist straight (no flexion or extension with minimum radial and ulnar deviation). For example, you perform this same motion when you dump out a glass of water by rotating your hand inward (pronation) so your thumb goes from pointing upward to downward.

To prepare to paddle on the left side, lift your right hand and elbow up near shoulder height. Maintaining your hand and elbow near shoulder height, inwardly rotate the forearm of your right hand (turn your thumb down) while lowering your left hand toward the water. Let the shaft twist freely in your left hand to keep that wrist straight as well. The left blade becomes perpendicular to the kayak’s length, and both wrists remain straight during the entire motion.

BLADE POSITION

In the forward stroke, keep the blade in the water square (perpendicular) to the length of the kayak. Doing so provides maximum blade surface area for applying force in your direction of travel. The farther you paddle from the side of the kayak, the more that stroke turns you away from your paddling side. The converse is also true: The closer you paddle to the side of the kayak, the less you turn. If you want to travel straight, keep the paddle blade close to the boat, especially at the catch and early part of the power phase.

Fig. 1-14 a. Thumb up; b. Thumb down (Photos by Steve Jones)

STROKES TO MOVE FORWARD

To take strokes, reach ahead with your onside hand and shoulder, while keeping your top, or offside, hand in front of your forehead. Drop the onside hand straight down toward the water until the blade is fully immersed. This is the catch.

Fig. 1-15 The catch (Photo by Steve Jones)

To move the kayak, pull back with your onside shoulder while pressing forward with your offside shoulder. As the paddle nears your hip, lift it out of the water with your hand and elbow to near shoulder height. This is the exit. The load, or vertical component of force application, will be discussed in chapter 4. When you’re first learning, focus on engaging your stronger abdominal, torso, and shoulder muscles to apply power and minimizing the amount you pull with your arms.

Fig. 1-16 a. The power phase;
b. The exit

PADDLING STRAIGHT

Human beings can never repeat a movement pattern exactly, let alone make symmetrical motions. What you feel your body is doing is not necessarily what it really is doing.

We also develop our bodies asymmetrically; we all have a dominant side that tends to be stronger and more powerful. While your body and actions may feel symmetrical, that is not necessarily the case, especially when you are trying new activities. To counter these tendencies, here are some tips to keep your kayak traveling straight.

SIT IN THE MIDDLE

One of the key aspects of going straight on flatwater is to sit in the middle of the kayak, right along the centerline and not off to one side, to keep the boat level or flat in the water. When you are weighted more on one side than the other, the kayak will lean to the heavier side. When the kayak is leaned to one side, it tends to turn toward the higher side.

Many sea kayaks are designed to be steered, at least in part, by leaning or edging with one side higher than the other. So if you tip the boat to one side, the bow carves a turn toward the higher side and the stern slides toward the lower side—keeping the kayak level helps to keep it tracking in a straight line. To stay centered and level in the sea kayak, sit up tall by elongating your spine as much as possible, and balance your weight across your hips. Also, at least until you find the neutral flat position, keep your hips square in the kayak, so one is not forward of the other.

DON’T GET HULA HIPS

While paddling, avoid letting your hips swing from side to side, especially toward your offside—otherwise known as hula hips. Sit up tall, especially focusing on keeping your side torso muscles firm and erect. Letting your side torso muscles on the paddling side collapse during the power phase of each stroke generally causes hula hips. In the early stages of your skills development, keeping your hips still while you paddle will also help with stability. As you develop your paddling skills, using leg drive and pull moves the hips forward and backward—which is important in generating power—but never side to side.

A very inexpensive aid to help you recognize when you are leaning is a line level, available at hardware stores. A line level is a small tube almost filled with liquid in which an air bubble moves from side to side, depending on how the level is tilted. Marks on the tube help you see its center; keeping the air bubble in the center indicates the tube is level.

To use the line level, tape it to your kayak deck in front of the cockpit, across the boat’s centerline. Make sure the line level is centered and level by setting it up while your kayak is sitting on a level surface. While paddling, periodically check your line level and compare it to how your boat looks in the water, what the horizon looks like, and how your body feels. Eventually you will be able to recognize and feel the level position of your sea kayak.

Another great aid is to have someone else, perhaps an instructor with a trained eye, take a look at how you are sitting and how that orients your sea kayak in the water.

BALANCE YOUR MOVEMENTS

As much as you reasonably can, make the same movements on each side when you kayak. Symmetrical hand and elbow heights, as well as shoulder movements, keep your power about the same and keep the kayak going straight. For example, if you paddle as hard as you can on both sides, you’ll consistently turn away from your stronger side. If you have a nice clean exit and little drag on one side, but drag the paddle at the exit of the other side, you’ll turn toward the dragging side. Incorporating the same mechanics on each side is critical.

Keeping the blade square or perpendicular to the centerline of the kayak will also help. If you pitch (twist) the blade during the power application phase, you introduce sideways movement. Pitching can occur in two directions—away from the kayak or toward the kayak. When the paddle is pitched with the inboard edge of the blade in front of the outboard edge, the boat will tend to travel toward the blade. If the inboard edge is behind the outboard edge, the boat will travel away from the blade. Keep track of these angles throughout the entire stroke.

LEARNING TO PADDLE

Often the most effective method of learning any complex physical activity and developing skills is to first understand the big picture and then break the skill down into parts. You then practice one part for a while until you reach an improved level of skill and then go on to another part. For complex motions, such as those found in kayaking, there’s just too much to figure out all at once. Once you have practiced a set of skills, you can put them together. Chapter 4 gets into skills development further.

SLOWLY INCREASE YOUR POWER

Start off with very lightly powered strokes while trying to keep your body motion the same on each side. Barely touch the water with your paddle and keep your motions slow and relaxed. If you start to head off to one side, check your body mechanics to make sure they are symmetrical and adjust your power by adding power to the side you turn toward and reducing power on the other side until you are consistently going straight. Once you are comfortable with this exercise and you are going straight, incrementally add power on both sides.

MAKE COURSE CORRECTIONS EARLY

The earlier you make course corrections through your body mechanics or application of power, the less change in direction you will have to correct. Kayaks tend to gain momentum in a turn, so the more they turn, the more effort is needed to overcome the turning action.

To practice, pick a point in front of you and head for it. Keep the point and the bow of your sea kayak lined up. As soon as the bow starts to deviate from that point, even just a little, correct your course. Eventually you will be able to predict when you need to make adjustments and prevent course deviations.

Fig. 1-17 Lightly touch the water with the blade.

WAIT TO USE YOUR RUDDER

You can correct your course by steering with your paddle or rudder. If you’re trying to develop symmetrical mechanics and balanced power, however, it’s best not to use a rudder. Moving the rudder diminishes the cognitive connection between what you are doing with the paddle and how that affects boat movement. While rudders generally make steering easier, even when positioned straight, they introduce lots of drag, which you must overcome with additional strength. The more you turn the rudder, the more drag you introduce. Having a symmetrical stroke, even if you plan to use the rudder regularly, will make you significantly more efficient, reduce the time the rudder is off center, and decrease the power you need for each stroke to maintain a given speed. All of these add up to paddling longer distances with less fatigue.

BE PATIENT

Don’t expect to learn everything right away. Everyone learns at different rates, through different styles, and to different degrees. Take the time you need to learn to keep your kayak going straight and be very patient with yourself. Learn to stay in the center of your boat, sit up tall, balance your weight between your hips, and develop a symmetrical stroke. If you take the time you need to learn this well, you will greatly enhance your sea kayaking experience.

STARTING AND STOPPING

When you take a paddling stroke, force is applied in three potential directions: forward or backward (longitudinal), sideways (transverse), and vertical. In calm water, how the kayak reacts to your stroke depends on the sum of these relative forces. Chapter 4 covers how to merge all the components of force to move forward; this section focuses on forward and sideways forces.

Forward force occurs because you’re planting the paddle into the water ahead of your body and pulling yourself toward the paddle. Sideways force exists because your paddle is off to the side of the centerline of the kayak. The kayak is at its own centerline, so the paddle can’t be in the water at the centerline. If there’s more forward force than sideways force, the kayak will mostly go forward. If there’s more sideways force than forward force, the kayak will tend to turn.

HOW TO START

It’s easier to keep a kayak going straight when it’s already moving. When it’s moving, the kayak has existing forward force. You add additional forward force by taking another stroke. When you’re stopped and just starting to move, there is no existing forward force of boat movement, so when you take a stroke to get started, the sideways force is greater than the forward force, and the kayak tends to turn more.

When you’re first learning, it’s helpful to apply very light power to start the kayak moving, and as speed is gained, you can increase your power. Be aware that more correction will be needed when you’re starting than when you’re up to full speed. Through practice you’ll learn the compensations you need to make so you can start with greater power.

HOW TO STOP

Since kayaks do not have brake pedals, you must use your paddle to stop forward movement. Holding the paddle with the same orientation as in the forward stroke, gently place your blade in the water behind you, drag and push slightly forward against the back side of the blade. The kayak will slow and turn toward the blade in the water. To keep the kayak going straight, repeat the same motion on the other side and alternate as needed. If you want to stop and turn at the same time, simply back paddle (see below) on the same side, gradually increasing power as you press against the back side of the blade.

HOW TO PADDLE BACKWARD

Moving the kayak backward involves similar principles to paddling forward and stopping. While holding the paddle in the same manner as you would for the forward stroke, rotate your torso backward to one side. Place the paddle in the water on that side and push the kayak backward past the paddle. Rotate your body forward and press with your arms to apply power to the reverse stroke. Alternate sides and balance power to keep the kayak going straight backward. If you are using the vertical paddling style, keep your top hand level with your forehead throughout the entire stroke. You can keep track of your course by looking over your shoulder as you rotate backward.

TURNING

Once you have an idea of how to move forward and backward, as well as how to stop, try out other strokes that help you change direction.

PADDLE WIDE

The farther you paddle from the side of the kayak, the more the kayak will turn. If you want to turn, one option is to paddle wide, or farther from the side of the kayak. Performing a forward stroke while paddling wide propels the kayak forward while turning it away from the paddling side.

Fig. 1-18 a. Paddle wide; b: Paddle close.
(Photos by Steve Jones)

FORWARD SWEEP

Another option to move the kayak forward and turn away from your paddling side is to guide the blade through a sweeping pattern. Place the blade in the water as far forward as possible, right next to the kayak, with the concave power face of the blade away from the kayak. The closer to the ends of the kayak you start and finish this stroke, the greater the turning effect. Then, while pulling the kayak past the blade, sweep the blade away from the side of the kayak and then back to the side of the kayak behind you in an arc.

This pattern is very similar to the forward stroke used in the horizontal paddling style and is appropriately named the forward sweep stroke; it has a stronger turning effect than paddling wide. If you are using a vertical paddling style, keep your top hand level with your forehead through the entire sweep stroke to load your body weight onto the paddle (see chapter 4).

Fig. 1-19 The forward sweep (Photo by Steve Jones)

REVERSE SWEEP

A reverse sweep moves the kayak backward and turns it away from your paddling side. This stroke combines the reverse stroke with the sweeping motion. As with the forward sweep, the closer to the ends of the kayak you start and finish the reverse sweep, the greater the turning effect. Rotate backward and place the blade into the water as far aft as possible, with the concave power face of the blade toward the kayak.

Fig. 1-20 The reverse sweep
(Photo by Steve Jones)

While pushing the kayak backward, sweep the blade out away from the kayak in an arc and then back to the side as far forward as possible. Here, the convex back side of the blade leads the way. Turn your head and look over your shoulder and follow the blade as it moves through the water, rotating your body to help keep track of your course. If you’re paddling with a vertical style, keep your top hand level with your forehead.

MOVING SIDEWAYS

Sometimes you will want to move your kayak laterally without accelerating forward or backward.

DRAW STROKE

To move the kayak sideways without moving forward or backward, reach straight to the side with the blade parallel to the kayak and the blade’s concave power face toward the boat. Place the blade into the water and draw the kayak to the blade—the draw stroke. As the kayak approaches the blade in the water, you must recover for the next stroke to avoid having the kayak overrun the paddle, which is very destabilizing.

You have a couple of options for the recovery phase. The easiest is to lift the blade vertically out of the water as the kayak approaches. Another option, which allows a smoother transition between draws and, as skills advance, between draws and other strokes, is to keep the blade in the water, flex your wrists (reduce the angle between your forearm and hand) to twist the blade so that it is perpendicular to the kayak, and slice the blade through the water away from the kayak back to the starting position. If you wish to draw again, simply extend your wrists so the blade is again parallel to the kayak and draw in once more.

Fig. 1-21 Use the draw stroke to draw the kayak sideways. (Photo by Steve Jones)

Fig. 1-22 Recover for the next draw.
(Photo by Steve Jones)

DRAW STROKE AT DIFFERENT ANGLES

The draw stroke can be performed at any angle from the paddler, depending on the desired direction of travel. If the blade is parallel to the kayak’s side at the beginning of the stroke, the kayak will tend to move straight to that side. If you reach to the side and forward a bit, the kayak will tend to be drawn forward and to the side. If you reach to the side and aft a bit, the kayak will tend to be drawn backward and to the side. Essentially, you reach toward the direction you wish to move, in an infinite number of positions, place the blade in the water, and draw the kayak in that direction.

USING A RUDDER

Most effective when you are moving the kayak forward or backward, rudders impede sideways movement in a kayak. Push on the left pedal to turn left and the right pedal to turn right. Be careful in shallow water as some rudders can bend or even break if they become caught on obstructions or while moving backward.

PADDLING SINGLES AND DOUBLES

Single and double (or tandem) kayaks have different paddling considerations. Single kayaks are easier to steer because they are shorter and usually narrower than double kayaks.

Because of their longer waterline length, double kayaks can accelerate more quickly and have a faster potential hull speed. A double kayak moves more smoothly when the paddlers take strokes together, since they generate power at the same time. Paddling doubles is most efficient when both paddlers take strokes on the same side at the same time, which unifies power application.

Fig. 1-23 Paddling with a rudder (Photo by Steve Jones)

COMBINING STROKES

As your skills develop, you can combine strokes to move the kayak more precisely. For example you can reach forward and to the side to start a stroke with a draw to move toward your paddling side, then finish with a forward stroke to propel the kayak forward. You can also recover from any one stroke and prepare for the next by slicing the blade through the water in any desired direction, as explained above.

Another example of combining strokes is pivoting. Pivoting involves changing the heading of your kayak without changing position on the water—you point the front of the kayak in a different direction. To pivot, perform a forward sweep on one side and a reverse sweep on the other side. The kayak will turn away from the forward sweep side and toward the reverse sweeping side.

Paddlers can use an infinite number of movements to precisely move their kayaks. Precision control is gained through practice and experimentation. For more advanced techniques, see chapter 4, skills.

How many kayak features can you identify?

CHAPTER 2

Choosing and Transporting Your Kayak

Sea kayaking is a recreational activity that requires equipment. A kayak, a paddle, and safety gear are fundamental, either necessary or required by law (chapter 1 covers basic gear). Many kayakers begin by renting or borrowing a kayak until they know the sport a little better. Once you start to look at kayaks, you’ll find there are hundreds of choices, which can be overwhelming.

Focus on your choice of paddling style, how often you will use your kayak, and the destinations you wish to visit. As your understanding and skills develop, you will want to select a kayak that matches your paddling style. Do you like to paddle with the kayak relatively level, or do you prefer to be more active with your body by leaning and edging? Do you enjoy the feel of a kayak gliding through the water, or do you wish to have a drier ride? Deciding where you wish to paddle and understanding that different kayaks fit different body sizes and performance characteristics will help you select a kayak that’s right for you.

Let’s look at the choices in kayaks, and then at the wide range of accessories available, such as deck-mounted compasses and spray skirts. You’ll also learn about the equipment you need to transport your kayak, as well as tips on equipment care.

TYPES OF KAYAKS

Although kayak manufacturers categorize their boats in many ways, generally kayaks designed for protected waters with little wind or waves are called recreational kayaks. These boats are generally cheaper, offer fewer features, and are designed with higher initial stability. They are great boats for getting out on the water and paddling shorter distances with moderate skills, in very protected conditions. Touring kayaks, also called sea kayaks, are designed to be paddled greater distances and in a wider variety of conditions.

When you select a kayak, you must first consider where you want to go. Are you interested in short trips of one or two hours on protected waters? Or do you want to eventually explore farther afield and perhaps even camp overnight? Are you interested in kayaking to improve your fitness, rather than touring? Choose a combination of kayak features that fit your interests. Additional factors are the paddling style you wish to adopt and the conditions in which you want to paddle. Answering these questions will greatly narrow your choices and simplify your decision making.

You’ll also need to choose between single and double kayaks. Single kayaks are more versatile because you don’t need to find a paddling partner. They also come in many more designs, so you can fit the boat more closely to your body size and paddling needs. Singles are smaller and lighter, so they’re easier to transport, get on and off your vehicle, and carry to the water. The roof-rack systems of some vehicles are not designed to carry even moderately heavy loads and are barely rated to carry a single kayak, let alone a load as heavy as a double kayak. It’s much easier to chat as you paddle side by side in two or more single kayaks than with one person in front of the other in a double. The bow (front) paddler in a tandem kayak must constantly turn and face the stern (back) paddler to be heard, which soon becomes tedious.

Fig. 2-1 Let’s take the dog kayaking!

Fig. 2-2 It’s easier for two kayakers to chat in single kayaks side by side than in a tandem.

Since many doubles are wider than singles, they offer more initial stability and can carry bulkier items. But double kayaks really shine when two people paddle at very different speeds, with one partner who is considerably faster and always has to wait for the other. If partners of different strengths are in single kayaks, the weaker partner feels pressed to go faster, fights to keep up, feels tired, and generally does not have fun. Tandem kayaks are a great choice if two paddlers are of significantly different physical strengths. The weaker paddler does not feel constant pressure to paddle hard to keep up; the stronger paddler does not have to wait for the other to catch up. Also, one partner can rest while the other keeps paddling, and yet they continue to make progress. No matter how fast each partner paddles, they both travel at the same speed.

Fig. 2-3 Double kayaks are great for group trips.

KAYAK MATERIALS

Kayaks are made out of materials ranging from composites, such as fiberglass, Kevlar, and carbon/graphite, to roto-molded plastics such as polyethylene, to wood strips and fabric over a wood or aluminum frame. Material choice affects a kayak’s performance, weight, stiffness, and durability. Lighter-weight kayaks are less work to paddle and maneuver, and easier to carry and load onto your vehicle. The stiffer a kayak is, the better it holds its shape in even the most challenging conditions, thereby enhancing its performance. Kayaks made of durable materials will retain their performance characteristics more consistently.

Of today’s kayak materials, the most commonly used are composites and roto-molded polyethylene. These are the most popular boats because they offer entry into the sport at a modest cost. Both composite and roto-molded kayaks also require less maintenance than other materials.

Kayakers who want a lighter weight and stiffer boat most often choose composites. The stiffness of composites in maintaining hull shape, even in more challenging conditions, gives boats of these materials a real performance advantage. Well-made composite kayaks are also very durable and easily repaired if damaged. Additionally, they come in many designs, as well as composite configurations. As these boats are relatively labor intensive to manufacture and are made of more expensive materials, they tend to be more expensive than their roto-molded counterparts.

The main advantage of roto-molded plastic kayaks is their lower cost. They tend to be heavier, to be more susceptible to fatigue over time because of sun exposure, and to have a higher surface tension (the drag inherent in any material) than other choices.

Wood kayaks, made of wood strips or narrow planks constructed over a wood frame, are usually offered in a kit form, allowing you to make a beautiful kayak at a very modest cost. Once you glue the strips in place, you usually add a thin fiberglass layer for durability.

Kayaks made of waterproof fabric stretched over a collapsible wood or aluminum frame can be disassembled and stored in a fairly small container, making storage and transport easier. However, they do give up a lot of performance once in the water. Traditional fabric wood-frame (also called skin-on-frame) kayaks are of great traditional and historic value, but they do not perform as well as boats made of modern materials.

DESIGN CHARACTERISTICS

No matter what materials kayaks are made of, they are all subject to common design principles. No one kayak performs perfectly in all conditions. Designers identify sets of opposing characteristics and choose compromises along a set of continuums based on safety, intended use, paddler size, and cost. Therefore, any individual kayak design is the result of design choices and a set of compromises. To help you select your kayak, consider the design characteristics shown in the chart below: stability, length, width, rocker (distance the ends are raised above the kayak’s deepest point), volume, hull cross-section curvature, form, and directional control.

Several critical aspects of a kayak’s shape affect performance. Often these choices of shape are based on two opposing considerations at the ends of a continuum. Depending on how designers want a kayak to perform, they’ll choose a point along the continuum for a particular design.

For example, if a kayak is designed to paddle distances and track (tendency to go straight) without a lot of tight maneuvering, it will be longer and narrower and have little rocker. However, if the kayak is too long for the weight of the paddler and gear, it will sit too high on the water and the ends will not be immersed deeply enough to help with tracking. If a kayak is designed to play in waves, turn quickly, and maneuver tightly, it will be shorter and wider and have greater rocker. However, if a kayak is too wide, you might find it difficult to maneuver, put on edge and hold, and paddle it efficiently. On the other end of the width continuum, if a kayak is too narrow, the boat will feel unstable, and few paddlers will feel comfortable and confident in it.

Try paddling several different models based on your paddling style. Compare fit, performance while under way, and maneuvering to get a sense of which you prefer. Then spend a couple of hours paddling your top two choices. Talking to knowledgeable staff at kayak symposia and shops and paddling different boats at on-the-water demonstrations will help you choose.

STABILITY

Stability involves how easily a kayaker can keep his center of mass above the kayak’s center of buoyancy. Center of mass is the position in space of any object, while center of buoyancy is the point where gravity acts on a hull displacing water. When a boat sits on the water, gravity pushes it down making a depression in the water. Center of buoyancy is the center of that depression.

Stability can be divided into two components at the ends of a continuum: initial and secondary. Initial stability defines how the kayak feels on flat, undisturbed water while paddling the kayak with little or no leaning. Secondary stability focuses on paddling the kayak off center (called edging) and in wavy conditions. When a designer creates a hull, she must choose a point along this continuum.

To achieve initial stability, a kayak hull has a very flat bottom, and that flatness extends close to the sides of the kayak. Common among recreational kayaks, this design is very comfortable on calm water, but not in rougher conditions. In waves, especially those coming from the sides, flat-bottomed kayaks pitch up onto their sides, which is very disconcerting. Also, because the flatness extends close to the sides, the sides are relatively vertical. When a wave hits a more vertical side, it pushes the kayak around quite a bit. Recreational kayaks designed for paddling in protected waters, with little wind or waves, tend to have high initial stability.

Kayaks with secondary stability have a more rounded hull cross section. In rougher conditions, the rounded hull will lift on waves, rather than pitching, making it more stable. Designed for more diverse conditions, these kayaks are more stable when the sides of the hull are in contact with the water, either because they are in contact with the side of a wave or through edging. With a more rounded hull, you can incrementally put the kayak farther and farther on edge, rather than fighting the more dramatic corner or chine (from the flatter bottom to the more vertical sides) of a kayak with more initial stability.

Fig. 2-4 a. Kayak with high initial stability on flatwater; b. Kayak with high initial stability on rough water

Fig. 2-5 a. Kayak with high secondary stability on flatwater; b. Kayak with high secondary stability on rough water

When first learning to paddle a kayak with a rounder hull, you should spend a few hours on flatwater and then gradually progress to rougher conditions to learn to let waves lift the kayak and to hold the kayak on edge. Also, as your skills develop, you will learn to handle currents and wind, maneuvering much more effectively, if you edge the kayak. (See chapter 4.)

LENGTH AND WIDTH

Two other kayak design characteristics to consider are length and width. To support a given load—a paddler, kayak, and gear—a combination of length and width is required, which creates displacement.

Displacement

The kayak and its load push down into the water to create a depression, called displacement, and the water pushes back to support the load. With a larger surface area in contact with the water, the water has a greater capacity to push back. If the load is larger, with a bigger person, a heavier kayak, or a greater amount of gear, the surface area in contact with the water will be greater than if the load is smaller, as with a smaller person, a lighter kayak, or less gear.

Surface area can be created by a very long and narrow kayak, a very short and wide kayak, or some intermediate design. If there’s not enough surface area, the kayak will ride very low in the water and, in the extreme, sink. If the surface area is too great, the kayak will sit too high out of the water, diminishing other design characteristics, such as tracking and edging. Generally, the seam between the hull and deck should be above the waterline when you paddle your loaded kayak.

Length is an issue in paddling style primarily because of displacement: The longer the waterline, the greater the potential hull speed and the better the kayak will glide between paddling strokes. Longer kayaks allow designers to taper the ends of a kayak more gradually—as a kayaker paddles the boat forward, water will be pushed away more gradually over a greater part of the length of the boat. Longer kayaks also provide lift farther from the center of the kayak, creating a drier ride.

If you choose a shorter kayak, it will most likely be relatively wide to provide adequate displacement. Blunter ends push water away from the hull more abruptly than a longer kayaker, requiring far greater paddling effort. Shorter kayaks tend to punch through waves, resulting in a much wetter ride. With a shorter, wider kayak, your paddling technique will be limited to low angle. If you prefer high-angle paddling, choose a kayak that’s narrower. It will allow you to place the blade in the water closer to the centerline and hold the paddle in a more vertical position.

Tracking and Edging

A kayak’s tendency to go straight, or follow a track, is known as tracking. Since kayaks that track to a greater degree require fewer steering strokes, more of a paddler’s energy can be directed to propelling the kayak forward. Water resists the kayak moving through it, and different pressures around the hull makes waves. When a kayaker paddles the boat forward, more resistant water pressures are found at the bow, with lower pressures toward the stern. As a result, the stern tends to slide sideways. To resist the sideways slide, a designer who wishes to make a kayak track better includes a longer waterline, a narrower hull, vertical sides in the ends of the boat (especially the stern), and less rocker.

Longer, narrower kayaks tend to track more readily than shorter kayaks, because of the greater distance between the bow and stern. The hull’s narrower profile reduces the amount of water that the kayak must push out of the way to move through the water. Water flows more closely to the centerline, reducing the turning moment. Narrower hulls also allow a more gradual taper from the ends to the widest point of the kayak, allowing the water to flow more readily along the hull (laminar flow). With less rocker and more vertical sides at the ends of the boat, greater volume is immersed at the kayak ends, and the immersed vertical sides help resist the tendency of the stern to swing sideways, and therefore track better. Additionally, the longer the waterline of a kayak, the lower the relative wave-making capacity and the more readily the kayak moves through the water. As a result, hull speed positively correlates with waterline length.

Because you can use a vertical paddling style, paddle closer to the kayak’s centerline, and track better, a longer, narrower kayak is more attractive for touring distances. If you’re concerned about the distance you can paddle in a day, keeping up with paddling friends who always seem to go faster, minimizing fatigue, or just going faster, a longer and narrower kayak will help.

As your skills develop, you may wish to incorporate edging into your kayak maneuvering. Edging, placing the kayak more on its edge rather than flat and level, decreases resistance on the high side of the kayak bow area and increases it on the low side of the kayak stern area, causing the kayak to turn toward its high side. The narrower the kayak, the more easily you can edge it. If the kayak is too narrow for your skills or paddling conditions, it may edge more than you wish! At the other extreme, if the kayak is very wide or has high initial stability, you will be unable to get the kayak onto its edge.

The longer the waterline, the greater the turn radius under all paddling conditions. If you want to focus on paddling distances without much tight maneuvering, this is great. However, if you want to play on waves, maneuver in and out of currents, and be more playful in your kayaking, a shorter kayak with more rocker may be more appropriate.

Glide

A kayak’s tendency to continue to travel through the water after you have finished a paddling stroke is called glide; all kayaks have some capacity to glide. Imagine the water parting around and underneath a kayak as it is being paddled through the water. Less resistance to that flow means that a paddler applies less effort to propel the boat. Generally, the longer the water-line and the narrower the kayak, the better it glides. Short, wide kayaks tend to have a large frontal area and push more water underneath and to the sides.

Fig. 2-6 a. Kayak with low rocker; b. Kayak with moderate rocker

Glide becomes more and more important as you develop technique, especially if you choose a vertical paddling style. It lets you maintain your speed longer with less effort—critical on days when you paddle for longer distances. Paddling a kayak with great glide also allows you to travel at a faster speed and helps you keep up with friends.

ROCKER

The distance a kayak’s ends are raised above the deepest point on the kayak (analogous to the rockers on a rocking chair), is called rocker, another design characteristic based on a continuum. Generally, with more of the kayak ends in the water—low rocker—the kayak will track better than if it has a large amount of rocker. More rocker makes turning easier, particularly when turning by edging. When you edge, the ends of the kayak tend to lift out of the water, thereby reducing the boat length and making it easier to turn.

Rocker can be designed into a kayak through a variety of elements that reduce or raise volume toward the ends of the kayak, which changes how the kayak lifts on waves, how it tracks, and how a paddler can turn it. Curving the ends of the kayak upward results in an upswept profile, reducing the waterline and increasing rocker. Another approach is to reduce the size or volume in the bow or stern, either vertically or horizontally, resulting in a more needlelike appearance. In a kayak with lots of rocker, a designer will often use a combination of these elements in moderation, rather than one extreme.

VOLUME

Kayak size is usually referred to as volume, as if you filled the kayak with a volume of water. Volume is designed into a kayak by adjusting elements, such as length, width (beam), height of the deck, and the degree the kayak is tapered toward the ends, both on the vertical (rocker) and horizontal planes. A kayak’s volume is designed to accommodate the size and weight of the intended paddler, as well as the projected load.

For example, I’m a pretty big guy, so I need a kayak with a volume that can support my size and weight. If I tried to paddle a kayak designed for a smaller person, I might not fit into the boat at all, and at best I’d be very uncomfortable. Additionally, the kayak could sit so low in the water that the deck would be at least partly awash, decreasing stability and diminishing seaworthiness. Conversely, if a small person tried to paddle a kayak with a volume designed for a paddler of my size, the deck would be so high that the kayaker might feel up to the armpits in kayak. The kayak could be so wide that it would take everything the smaller kayaker has to get it on edge, let alone hold it there, when maneuvering.

HULL CROSS-SECTION CURVATURE

The hull cross section—the silhouette of a kayak as you look at it from an end—influences a boat’s gliding capacity. The smaller the kayak cross section and the more gradually the silhouette enlarges along its length, the lower the resistance to paddling the kayak forward.

The lowest resistance shape going through the water is an uninterrupted curve, or half a tube. This shape allows a kayak to accelerate quickly and to reach high speeds on flatwater but it also provides virtually no initial or secondary stability.

To increase both initial and secondary stability, kayak designers begin with an uninterrupted curve and then spread or flatten the radius in various areas, creating regions with greater displacement, as well as initial or secondary stability. However, the more extreme the change in radius, the more turbulence forms as the kayak passes through the water, resulting in greater drag and a kayak that paddles forward much more slowly and with greater effort.

The transition from an uninterrupted curve to flatter curves results in regions with a sharper radius, the extreme of which is called a hard chine. A hard chine is essentially a corner along the hull’s length on each side that enhances edge turning. A kayak can be put on edge right on top of its hard chine, and it can be turned very quickly. The advantages of a hard chine are greater initial stability and the quick, tight radius within which the kayak can be turned. The disadvantage is that a hard chine represents the extreme disruption of the hull’s continuous curve, and therefore slows forward performance and shortens glide.

Additionally, the harder the chine, the more deliberate and aggressive a kayaker must be to take advantage of the boat’s quick turning characteristic. In hard-chine kayaks, a paddler must place the boat on the chine and hold it there. Softer or multiple chines allow incremental edging with a correspondingly incremental edge turning effect—the more the kayak is edged, the tighter the turn. To effectively edge a kayak, it must be narrow enough that the paddler can put it on edge. Sea kayaks with hard chines are relatively easy to edge, while wider recreational kayaks are nearly impossible to edge.

Fig. 2-7 a. Hard-chine kayak; b. Soft-chine kayak

FORM

A kayak’s form is determined by where its maximum width and volume is positioned along its length: in front of the cockpit, in the center, or behind the cockpit. Designers position a kayak’s greatest volume according to different performance criteria.

A symmetrical kayak has its widest point, and therefore the greatest volume, in the middle, where the kayaker sits. A symmetrical kayak is relatively easy to turn and pivot, has moderate forward speed, and makes for a fairly dry ride. Fish form kayaks have greater volume in front of the cockpit, making them very roomy for legs and feet. Additionally, positioning the greatest volume in front helps the kayak to lift more quickly on waves, translating into a higher and drier ride. But it moves slower through the water, requiring a modest amount of additional effort.

Swede form kayaks have the widest cross section aft of the cockpit. This more tapered shape offers the least water resistance, resulting in a faster, better gliding kayak. But it knifes through the waves, rather than lifting up and over them, resulting in a wetter ride.

Fig. 2-8 Kayak forms: a. Symmetrical; b. Swede; c. Fish

DIRECTIONAL CONTROL

To varying degrees, all kayakers use their paddle for directional control, but either a rudder or a skeg (a finlike protrusion through the bottom of the hull toward the stern) can be used to help with directional control, particularly in crosswinds or crosscurrents. One of the most fervent debates (bordering on fanaticism) within the sea kayaking community focuses on the choice of a rudder versus a skeg. Both have real benefits and real drawbacks.

A rudder provides control in all forward and backward directions. It allows you to paddle with the kayak level, which is the most hydrodynamic position, and use your most efficient forward stroke, particularly helpful on longer trips. Paddling direction, as well as yaw control when paddling in crosswinds or crosscurrents, is more easily maintained with the assistance of a rudder. However, it is mounted at the stern, and a rudder may make it difficult for a paddler being rescued in the water to grasp that part of the boat.

Rudders are manually raised and lowered by pulling on a control cord (rudder cable) within reach of the cockpit while the paddler is sitting in the boat. When the rudder is up, it is less liable to be damaged during launching and landing, or paddling through very shallow water. It also allows the stern to slide more readily, which is desirable when entering and exiting currents.

The skeg, which retracts into the hull into its own box, provides some directional control in helping to keep a kayak from turning into a side wind (weathercocking). But kayaks with skegs are designed to be directed primarily through paddling strokes and edge turning. Although many kayakers enjoy that level of active body paddling, others find it more fatiguing than using a rudder. Another disadvantage of a kayak outfitted with a skeg is that the skeg box protrudes into the aft end chamber, significantly reducing gear storage in that compartment.

Fig. 2-9 a. Kayak rudder; b. Kayak skeg

KAYAK COMPONENTS

Beyond the basics discussed in chapter 1, touring kayaks have built-in features to enhance safety, comfort, and performance.

FLOTATION

Bulkheads segment the cockpit area from the ends of the boat, thereby creating trapped air space and providing flotation. Sadly, in an effort to produce less expensive kayaks, some manufacturers sacrifice such safety features in favor of lower prices. While low-end boats make kayaking more accessible, they significantly compromise a paddler’s safety. Safety is a critical consideration in choosing a kayak, so strongly consider kayaks that incorporate safety features, such as bulkheads.

Most of the materials from which kayaks are made, such as composites and polyurethane, do not float. Therefore, when filled with water, kayaks sink. Additionally, a capsized kayak full of water from stem to stern requires great strength in a rescuer, who must lift and empty the kayak—virtually impossible for self-rescue. If a paddler capsizes, it is critical to minimize the amount of water that gets into the kayak. Flotation is critical to quickly recover the paddler and the boat.

To address the issue of sinking, some manufacturers glue a foam pillar inside lower-cost kayaks, in front of or behind the cockpit. While this feature solves the issue of sinking, these kayaks still fill completely with water and are very difficult to rescue when a paddler capsizes. Safer kayaks achieve effective flotation either with permanent bulkheads and end chambers or inflatable vinyl flotation bags installed in the kayak’s ends, or a combination of these methods.

Bulkheads are built into the kayak in front of and behind the cockpit. To minimize the volume of water that can get into the cockpit, bulkheads are installed immediately in front of where the kayaker’s feet extend and behind the cockpit’s seat. Air volume created between the bulkheads and the ends of the kayak provides flotation. These areas between the bulkheads and kayak’s ends, with access hatches in the deck, are also used for gear storage. Additionally, bulkheads make the kayak stiffer and improve its performance.

Kayakers who either have a kayak without bulkheads or want to back up the bulkheads may use flotation bags. Heavy vinyl flotation bags, usually with tapered ends that match the contour of the kayak, are slid into the ends of the boat, secured in place, and then inflated by blowing through a tube that feeds air into them. A twist valve at the end of the tube keeps air from escaping. Some flotation bags double as gear storage bags. A large opening allows kayakers to fill the bag with gear and then seal it inside. The flotation bag is then inflated, with the free air space around the gear serving as flotation.

DECK HATCHES

Hatches are holes in the kayak deck that access the end chambers for storing much of the gear you take kayaking. They should be large enough that you can feed medium-sized dry bags into the storage area. If hatches are too large, they can compromise hull integrity and make the seal between the hatch and the hatch cover weak. If they are too small, feeding gear through the opening is problematic.

Hatch covers should have a snug and nearly watertight fit. The most common hatch covers are made of a rubber material that fits onto the hatch perimeter rim or a composite material that paddlers buckle or strap in place. While many manufacturers tout a watertight hatch cover, I have yet to find an experienced kayaker who knows of one. That’s why dry bags are used for gear storage inside the hatches. Place gear that you want to keep dry in a dry bag and then store the bag inside the hatch.

COCKPIT SIZE AND SHAPE

The cockpit is where the kayaker sits. The cockpit rim, or perimeter around the opening into which the kayaker enters the boat and sits, can be shaped in many ways, but can be classified as either teardrop or keyhole. The paddling style you prefer will determine which cockpit size and shape is best for you.

Teardrop cockpits offer the largest opening, making entry and exit much easier. Additionally, if kayakers prefer to have their legs straight and out from under the deck, which allows for greater leg drive to generate forward movement, the teardrop cockpit is the better choice.

Keyhole cockpits offer the greatest surface area for thigh braces, allowing better contact between the paddler and the boat. Kayakers can plant the paddle blade into the water and turn or move the kayak with their legs and torso, a much more powerful action than using only their arms and torso. The keyhole cockpit’s smaller opening also reduces the likelihood of the spray skirt popping off when it is hit by waves in very rough conditions. The keyhole shape makes for a fairly narrow area for moving legs into and out of the kayak; paddlers will need to move one leg at a time.

Fig. 2-10 a. Teardrop cockpit; b. Keyhole cockpit

DECK-MOUNTED COMPASS

Kayak compasses come in numerous sizes and mounting configurations. Some are mounted temporarily with bungee cords or straps; others are permanently mounted into the deck. All must be installed on the centerline of the kayak, far enough away that you can see the compass and the horizon at the same time, and close enough that you can read the numbers. The most common position is either in front of or behind the front hatch cover, depending on the kayak’s length.

TRANSPORTING YOUR KAYAK

Because the hulls of most composite kayaks are much stronger than their decks, kayaks are generally transported right side up. Installing a cockpit cover on the open cockpit will keep out the rain. Many paddlers carry gear in their kayak while transporting it, so hatch covers and the cockpit cover also prevent items from falling or blowing out. If you carry gear in your kayak while it’s on the roof of your vehicle, make sure the roof rack is rated to carry the entire load—your kayak and the gear.

CARRYING A KAYAK

Kayaks range in weight from 20 pounds (9 kilograms) to well over 100 pounds (45 kilograms). If you carry the boat full of gear, the weight increases dramatically. Take care when lifting a kayak, to minimize the likelihood of injury, particularly to your knees, lower back, shoulders, and neck. Before lifting a kayak, squat down by bending your knees and keeping your back vertical. Grasp the kayak, and lift it up by straightening your knees.

When two people carry a kayak, they can grasp it by the T-handles at each end and walk together. The follower should walk directly behind the person in front and, since kayaks don’t bend very well, be careful going around corners and obstructions.

When you carry the boat by yourself, carry it at the cockpit. Standing next to the cockpit, face the kayak and grasp the cockpit rim with both hands, as far apart as is comfortable. Bend at your knees and keep your back straight. Lift the kayak up and onto your thighs and stabilize it there. Keep the hand closest to the front of the kayak in place, and reach your other hand across to the opposite side of the cockpit rim. Pull the opposite side of the kayak toward you so that the edge of the boat rests on your thighs. Then press the kayak up so the cockpit rim is resting on your shoulder. You may want to squat and thrust the kayak up by extending your legs to help lift with momentum. You can also lift the kayak by doing a knee raise while it sits on your thigh.

Combine an upward thrust, knee raise, and upward arm press to get the kayak on your shoulder readily. You can then walk with the kayak resting on your shoulder. If you wear your life jacket while carrying the kayak, the life jacket provides a nice shoulder pad on which to rest the boat.

USING WHEELIES

Wheelies, also known as a cart or caddy, are a pair of wheels, usually connected by an axle and frame, attached to a set of cradles that support a kayak. Position the wheelie under the kayak, near the cockpit. Straps hold the kayak to the wheelie, and you can pull the entire assembly by grasping a T-handle. Many wheelies break down into components that fit into the hatches for storage while paddling.

Fig. 2-11 A kayak on wheelies

ROOF RACKS

Many vehicles can carry gear, including kayaks, on built-in roof racks. Several aftermarket options are also available. Roof-rack systems are rated for maximum loads, which you can find in your vehicle owner’s manual or the aftermarket specifications. Ensure that all loads comply with manufacturers’ directions and within load capacities to avoid compromising the vehicle’s integrity, potentially voiding your warranty, or causing an accident.

Roof-rack systems are composed of four supporting towers on the vehicle’s roof connected to a pair of crossbars. The latter have components to hold a kayak in place. Some towers are in direct contact with the vehicle’s roof and often are shaped to fit into the door frame. Other towers can be attached to longitudinal rails attached to the roof by manufacturers. Some auto manufacturers provide factory-installed crossbars attached to the longitudinal rails. These crossbars generally provide a very low carrying capacity and cannot be used for kayaks.

Kayak roof-rack systems include a cradle or pad that secures the kayak and prevents damage to the boat and vehicle. The most basic are foam blocks shaped to fit around the crossbar on the bottom and to match the kayak’s hull on the top.

A step up in stability and protection of your kayak is a cradle system. Cradles more closely match the shape of your kayak and are positioned closer to the sides of the boat, where the cross-sectional curve radius of the kayak hull is smaller and therefore stronger. The most basic cradles are rigid plastic, while high-end cradles incorporate a rigid frame and softer rubber pad that conforms to the shape of the kayak. A standard cradle system has four cradles, two for the front crossbar and two for the back. Each step up in quality provides greater protection for your vehicle and kayak, as well as greater stability while traveling on the highway—a significant safety consideration.

Loading the Kayak

For many paddlers, the challenge of getting the kayak onto and off of their vehicle limits their adventures. There are several solutions.

Kayaks as light as 20 pounds (9 kilograms), made with modern lightweight materials, are often stronger than their heavier counterparts. If a paddler is tall and strong enough, she can simply lift the kayak at the side of the vehicle, reach across, and place it in the cradles. Alternatively, station a person at each end of the kayak, one in front of and the other behind the vehicle; together, they can lift the kayak and place it in the cradles. Either way, align the cradles so the kayak is straight and not pitched with one end to one side and the other end to the other side, which will cause your vehicle to pull toward the side the kayak is pointed.

Another option is a roller-loading system available through aftermarket manufacturers. Rollers, which are generally mounted on a crossbar at the back of the vehicle, let you lift one end of the kayak at a time to load it on top of the vehicle. In this case, a wheelie can also be used. With one end secured on the wheelie, roll your kayak behind the vehicle, with the boat pointed toward the car’s front. Lift one end of your kayak up onto the roller and hold the boat in place. Then, while keeping a hand on your kayak to keep it from slipping, move to the boat’s other end. Release the wheelies and lift the other end of the kayak off the ground while sliding it forward on the roller. As the kayak moves forward, and the rollers support more and more, lift it into a horizontal position and center it between the roof rack’s crossbars.

The ultimate in kayak-loading assistance is the Thule Hullavator, which lowers gas-assisted arms with attached cradles to the side of your vehicle. You only need to lift your kayak to waist height and tie it to the cradles while it’s beside your vehicle, eliminating the need to crawl around on the roof to place and secure straps. Then, with the aid of the gas-assist strut, raise the kayak to roof height. Steel pins secure the system in place.

Tying It Down

Once the kayak is in place on the cradles, tie it down securely. Most kayakers use a strap made of webbing, with a cam buckle that they use to tighten it. Some type of protection, such as a rubber cover or sewn-in webbing, will pad the metal buckle and the side of your kayak.

To use the cam strap, place the cam buckle against the side of the kayak so that you can pull down to tighten it. Hold the buckle in that position. Then pass the other end over the kayak toward the center of the vehicle, under the crossbar, and back over the kayak. Keep the strap as flat as possible. Now bring the strap under the crossbar on the outboard side of the kayak and up to the buckle. Press the tab on the buckle to open the space where the strap feeds through. From the underside, feed the strap through the buckle so it comes out the top. When the cam is released, it presses down on the strap, keeping it from backing through the buckle.

Hold the buckle in place, and pull on the free end to tighten the strap enough to secure the kayak. Overtightening can result in a deformed poly kayak or cause cracks in a composite kayak. Many paddlers then tie a half hitch around the strap below the buckle in case the buckle fails. Wrap the free end of the strap around the crossbar, and secure it so it doesn’t flap. Repeat this process for the other crossbar.

Once the crossbar straps are in place, tie down the ends of the kayak to keep it from pivoting on top of the car and from raising up. There are many stories about boats and roof racks lifting up and tearing away from the vehicle roof, usually resulting in lots of splinters. The most stable method of tying the ends of the kayak to the vehicle is a V-line: Attach the ends of the line to each side of the bumper (or some other tie-down point) and the middle to the end of the kayak, forming an inverted V. Either tie secure knots or use a commercial hook, rope, and cam system.

Secure both ends, but do not pull down on the ends of the kayak to the point where the hull starts to bend or deform. If your vehicle has a weak, lightweight bumper, seek out other attachment sites.

Keeping the Load Safe and Legal

Loads must be securely attached to the carrying vehicle so they do not move around during transport. Vehicle load-carrying laws specify the length of an overhanging load that extends beyond the ends of the carrying vehicle. For example, some laws specify a maximum of two feet extending over the front and three feet in back before a flag is required. Required flags are usually red or orange and must be attached near the end of the object. Always comply with your local load-carrying rules.

Carrying a kayak on a vehicle’s roof rack dramatically increases vertical surface area, so wind will have an impact on vehicle performance, particularly in headwinds or side winds. This can be especially problematic in gusty conditions. Make sure you secure your kayak properly, and slow down in windy conditions to stay safe.

TRAILERS

Small trailers designed to carry up to four kayaks, as well as some gear, are increasingly popular. Kayak trailers are low to the ground and have a long tongue to accommodate kayak lengths. They often offer an optional secure gear storage box as well. Most trailers have a pair of crossbars that accommodate cradles to support the kayak and hold it in place.

Trailers are low to the ground, which makes them easy to load, reduces frontal wind resistance, and uses less gas than loading a boat on the roof. They also make it easier to get into parking garages and other low-clearance structures. Using a trailer, however, makes your vehicle much longer, thereby complicating maneuvering, backing up, and finding a place to park. The trailer’s weight and its load may also extend your stopping distance, especially when the vehicle pulling it is light. Always follow the first rule of trailering: “It’s not what you can pull that’s important, it’s what you can stop.”

CARING FOR YOUR EQUIPMENT

Kayaking is an equipment-dependent sport. By selecting your paddling equipment carefully and taking great care of it, you can enjoy years of kayaking experiences at a moderate cost. The better you care for your paddling equipment, the better it will perform and the longer it will last.

Scraping the bottom of the kayak on the ground reduces its performance and usable life. As much as possible when launching, make sure the kayak is floating before you enter it. When landing, get out while the kayak is still floating and then carry it up the beach. Minimize getting into the kayak on the beach and then scooting to the water, or driving it onto the beach to land and dragging it on the ground, both of which are very hard on boats.

One way to minimize dragging a kayak is to carry it to the water’s edge unloaded. Use lightweight bags to carry your gear to your kayak and load at the water’s edge. Then carry your boat the short remaining distance until it’s floating in the water before you enter it. This approach helps you minimize the distance you drag the kayak. Do the latter only when you have no alternative.

Protect your paddle by keeping it in a safe storage bag. Refrain from using it like a pole to push your kayak through the water, and keep the tip off the ground when you are standing onshore. A well-cared-for paddle will last years and can be kept in pristine condition.

Keep your equipment clean by rinsing everything with freshwater, and scrubbing dirt and muck off your kayak at the end of each trip. Repair any damage as soon as possible to avoid additional water penetration that results in composite delamination.

REPAIR KITS

Repair kits hold the tools and materials you need to repair damage to your equipment and continue on your way. If you use a kayak with a skeg and you damage the skeg cable, you can repair it in the field if you have the proper tools and a replacement cable. If your rudder is damaged, you can replace it in the field if you have a spare and the tools to do the work. You can easily repair damage, such as punctures, to composites in your kayak and cracks in your paddle in the field. Your repair kit will largely depend on the repairs you are capable of performing, how long you wish to take to complete a repair, and how long you can live with paddling a damaged kayak.

A quick repair to a damaged hull is accomplished simply by taping over the damaged area. The area must be dry and clean. While many kayakers choose duct tape as a repair tape, I prefer 20-millimeter vinyl tape that plumbers use to wrap pipes. The latter is stronger, seals better, and does not leave gummy residue when removed like duct tape does.

A small piece of fiberglass cloth, two-part epoxy, sandpaper, acetone, and a four-in-one file are basic items for composite repair. Spare skeg cable and a spare skeg blade, along with the tools (specific to your kayak) needed to install them, allow you to repair your skeg. For kayaks with rudders, spare rudder cable, a spare rudder blade, and accompanying tools are fundamental.

REPAIR KIT

When you paddle, always bring a repair kit containing all of the following:

Small roll of tape such as duct or 20-millimeter plumber’s pipe wrap

Spare rudder parts, including cable, swedges, thimble, and a spare rudder blade

Spare skeg parts, including a spare skeg and length of cable

Tools, including a cable cutter, crimping tool, pliers, a screwdriver that matches all screws used on your boat, scissors, a knife, a chisel with a ¾–inch blade, and/or a multitool

Epoxy putty (either two-part or light cure)

Epoxy resin

Fiberglass cloth (6 small pieces 8″ × 8″)

100-grit sandpaper

Practicing rescues on a misty morning in Njord Fjord.

CHAPTER 3

Safety Considerations, Responsibilities, and Rescues

Kayaking is a very safe activity, with few accidents and even fewer fatalities. The boats move at relatively slow speeds and usually remain in relatively calm waters. Kayaking is about enjoying a positive and pleasurable experience. However, when kayakers get into trouble, the fun can disappear very quickly.

As with all boating activities, boating safety starts with each boater’s individual commitment to safety. The most important safety element is the person paddling the kayak, with quality equipment, safety gear, and well-practiced skills playing a supportive role. Equipment does not keep a kayaker safe—a kayaker keeps a kayaker safe. This personal dedication to safety involves a responsible attitude, self awareness, awareness of conditions, and consideration of other boaters. Planning, preparation, and making safe choices, as well as skill development, are key safety components. Proper equipment and clothing choices help maintain a high level of safety, as does knowledge of navigation rules and responsibilities.

Fig. 3-1 Safe kayaking is happy kayaking.

Leading to each emergency situation are a series of events, poor decisions, or failures to maintain critical safety components. Each event, decision, or failure helps form a chain of events leading to an emergency. By breaking any one link, you avoid an emergency. Breaking additional links moves the kayaker farther away from the emergency and into the realm of safe boating.

CONTROLLING THE CHAIN OF EVENTS

Volunteer and professional emergency responders, from local search and rescue organizations to the Coast Guard and the Air Force Air Rescue, describe situations that lead to the need for emergency rescue as the result of an uncontrolled chain of events. Each individual step in trip planning and preparation, equipment choice, decision making, or unexpected occurrence that leads to an emergency situation is a link in that chain. When a kayaker makes a decision that increases safety, he can break at least one link in the chain.

Fig. 3-2 Understand the importance of each link.

In any outdoor activity, participants (and especially leaders) should become thoroughly familiar with their potential chain links—such as attitude, awareness, safe and effective decisions, skill development, safety training, physical condition, appropriate attire, quality equipment, emergency preparedness, knowledge of rules of navigation and general responsibilities, group responsibility, knowledge of local waterways and shorelines, water conditions, and weather conditions, risks, potential dangers and decisions that an activity might require. Usually, understanding risks helps participants avoid high-risk scenarios altogether. However, if an emergency situation presents itself, having prepared previously by thinking through risks and possible decisions usually helps a kayaker make timely, sound, and thoughtful decisions to manage the situation.

When reviewing emergencies, rescuers cite that the people they rescue often exhibit a lack of awareness or understating of the chain of events that led to their situation. The people rescuers save often state that they would not have made any decisions differently. Lack of planning, lack of analyzing risks, and lack of thinking through possible scenarios can all lead to an emergency.

SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS

General safety considerations for kayakers include attitude (how you think about maintaining safety), awareness (your understanding of the risks you face), attire (what you wear), and equipment (the tools you use to paddle).

ATTITUDE

To a great extent your attitude determines your level of safety on the water. Kayakers should approach the sport with a risk-averse perspective. That does not mean that they do not take risks, but simply that they are aware of risk and measure risk against opportunities for desirable paddling experiences or kayaking skill development.

The greatest risks that the vast majority of paddlers face lie in potential collisions with other vessels, particularly small to medium-sized motor-powered boats. Do you approach paddling with consideration for other boaters, placing yourself in their position and trying to understand their perspective? Can you try to look through their eyes and understand how they view kayaks? Are you defensive in how you position your kayak—where you spend most of your time and how you conduct crossings? Or do you take or force right-of-way? Do you wander about in open water channels without a clear sense of heading? Do you allow your group to stretch out across a channel and leave no clear heading for other craft?

Other risks primarily involve paddling in conditions or taking on physical demands that are well beyond your abilities. Are you casual about wearing your life jacket? Are you casual about consuming alcohol while paddling?

Another critical aspect of attitude is the concept that you are responsible for your own safety. If you get into trouble, you are responsible for rescuing yourself. It is completely unreasonable to expect someone to come and save you if you get into trouble.

AWARENESS

Key to enhancing your level of safety is awareness: of yourself, of conditions, and of other boaters. Know your level of skill and ability to paddle in various sea and weather conditions. While pushing your limits will help you develop skills, take small, manageable steps, which you are likely to achieve and that offer a safe progression. Jumping into conditions or taking on physical demands far beyond your existing capacity unacceptably increases your risk.

Your Physical Condition

Self-awareness requires continual reassessment and evaluation. Here are some questions to consider throughout the course of your paddling:

What’s your physical condition—your strength, endurance, and level of fatigue?

Are you hydrated and maintaining your fluid and calorie intake to support your physical activity?

Are you active about self-care in treating even minor injuries, such as cuts, scrapes, and blisters?

Are the elements, either exposure to sun and heat or cold, affecting your physical ability?

CONDITIONING

Our bodies adapt to repetitive exposure to physical activity. We increase our conditioning by frequent physical activity that’s specific. We decrease our physical capacity with inactivity. Sadly, our bodies adapt to decreased activity much faster than to increased physical activity.

Our bodies are also very specific in their adaptation. If we want to increase our paddling endurance, we must paddle, or at least practice similar movement patterns and muscle use. Adaptation occurs in the specific muscle fibers we use in a particular activity and associated nerves, veins, and arteries as we exercise.

Throughout most of our lives, as long as we maintain our health, we can improve our physical ability. Frequent paddling will improve our paddling-specific strength and endurance. Gradually increasing the frequency, duration, and intensity of paddling are the only ways to improve your padding fitness and reduce fatigue.

HYDRATION

Your body requires water to activate and relax your muscles. If you become dehydrated, your muscles’ ability to activate, and then reactivate in the cyclical manner required in kayaking, is compromised. Thirst is a response to inadequate hydration at the cellular level. To maintain a given level or activity, you must replace the fluids you use in exercise. Keep water readily accessible during paddling, and drink small amounts at frequent intervals. Doing so will provide a steady stream of replacement fluids, without signaling your kidneys to remove fluid from your body, which would require a stop to urinate. Keeping a water bottle under the bungees of the foredeck, a fluid bladder with a drinking tube attached to the back deck, or a bladder attached to the back of your life jacket are all ways to keep water accessible.

NUTRITION

For approximately the first hour of continuous exercise, your primary energy source is the glycogen that’s stored in your body. After that period of time and depending on fitness, you tend to draw on fat reserves to a greater and greater extent, which is matched by a gradual decline in physical capacity.

Exercise physiologists have found that by eating a combination of carbohydrates (about 70 percent) and protein (about 30 percent) during and within one hour of completing exercise, you can better resynthesize glycogen and make it available to sustain physical activity, facilitate muscle repair and rehydration, and reduce muscle fatigue. This appears especially beneficial during multiple days of physical effort. As with fluid replacement, frequently eating small amounts allows your body to gradually absorb and metabolize nutrients.

FIRST AID

The longer the paddling trip and the more remote your destination, the more extensive your first-aid training should be. The American Red Cross offers courses in wilderness first aid to help those who venture outdoors prepare for emergency medical situations. Clubs and paddling shops that offer instruction also offer first-aid and rescue training that is more specific to kayak touring.

First-Aid Kits

Always bring and know how to use at least a minimal first-aid kit, as well as a repair kit. Your first-aid kit should fit into a medium-sized dry bag and include the following items: rubber gloves, scissors, tweezers, athletic tape, waterproof medical tape, lots of Band-aids of different sizes and shapes, gauze rolls and pads, triangular bandages, moleskin, an instant cold compress, insect sting relief pads, burn relief pads, lip ointment, sunblock, antiseptic cleansing wipes, an ace wrap, antibiotic ointment, and a marking pen.

Make sure you have good wilderness medical skills to provide first aid and manage the initial stages of medical emergencies until more highly trained volunteers or professionals can take over. Have a plan for how to get someone having a medical emergency to those who can help, or how to get those who can help to those who need it.

The farther your adventures take you from medical care, the more closely you should manage injuries, even minor ones. Clean cuts, scrapes, and abrasions and cover them with a sterile dressing daily. Drain blisters, particularly on hands, by inserting a sterile needle at the base of the blister and gently squeezing the fluid from under the dome. Then clean the area and cover it to protect the blister dome. If the dome tears, trim it away completely, and treat it like a scrape.

EXTERNAL CONDITIONS

Conditions over which you have no control are external conditions. Become familiar with tides and currents and know the predictions for the time you will be paddling. Understand how tidal water flow changes constantly and affects your route. Learn how to read the water and see where changes in underwater and surface topography result in hazardous surface conditions.

Learn how to understand your position on the water and how to plot it on a navigation chart. Consider the dangers the terrain presents. Determine whether the shoreline offers accessible landing, or you are faced with a steep cliff.

Be aware of the weather forecast and have a waterproof, handheld marine VHF radio (and spare batteries) to get constant updates. Keep track of the local conditions and understand if they are stable or changing. If they are in flux, understand how the change will affect your trip. Be certain that you have the skills for what’s to come. Be aware of your position relative to wind, current, and shore. Mariners tend to avoid a lee shore (the land is downwind) where they will be blown into rocky areas. Windward landmasses offer protection from the wind and elements. (Your awareness of your position on the water in relation to the surrounding geography and the weather are discussed in chapters 5 and 6.)

OTHER BOATERS

As you kayak, look at the beautiful scenery, enjoy the rhythm and glide of paddling your boat, and also be aware of other vessel traffic. Look out for other boaters in the area where you’re paddling. Consider whether they present a safety threat, such as a conflicting heading. Maximize your visibility, make your intended course clear, and look for safe, alternative courses that you or the other boaters can adopt to avoid conflict.

Be especially aware of other boaters when you cross from one body of land to another. Take particular caution concerning vessels that are on a heading that crosses yours. Other boaters are usually very considerate of kayaks, and give them a wide berth. But not all boat operators know of safety regulations on the water, some have had too much to drink, and others simply don’t care. Remember the tonnage rule: The greater the tonnage, the more it rules! Be defensive, stop and wait if necessary, and don’t be pushy. If you can get a gross violator’s vessel identification number, you can report it to law enforcement. But don’t expect them to be much help (sad, but true).

Wakes, waves created by other boats, can also affect kayakers. Large, fast-moving vessels generate big wakes that can destabilize or drive a kayaker into hazards, such as rocks. Wakes take a long time to move across the water, so if a vessel is far away, watch for its wake in twenty or thirty minutes. But wakes also often offer great opportunities to surf your kayak. Turn into or away from the waves as they approach and enjoy the ride!

The most common complaint from yacht operators is that kayakers are difficult to see. To increase your visibility, while paddling in a group, stay fairly close together. A group of five to ten kayaks that are 20 or 30 feet apart is much easier to see than the same number of kayakers spread over a large expanse. If a vessel is approaching and does not appear to see you, use a signaling device to try to increase your visibility. Kayaks and apparel of bright colors, especially yellow, orange, and red, increase visibility and help other boaters see you.

The next most common complaint other boaters voice about kayakers is that a large group of kayakers, often from a club and numbering up to 100, spreads out far and wide, especially during a crossing, effectively blocking the entire channel. Kayaks configured in this way force other vessels to weave among the large group and increase the risk, especially to the kayakers. A safer alternative is to break into smaller groups of about ten, spread the groups apart, and keep the members of each group close. This method allows other boaters a clear course to avoid the groups and increases everyone’s safety level.

Another common complaint other boaters voice about kayakers is that they come too close and even look into the windows of their boats. This is rude at best and very intrusive. Most people would not peer into the homes of others, and kayakers who look into the windows of larger boats are doing just that. Allow other boaters their privacy. If they invite you over, you can comfortably approach. Otherwise, simply stay clear.

There’s lots of water out there and room for everyone. Some like to blast around on jet skis or speedboats, others like to unwind on their yacht and enjoy a relaxing cruise. Kayakers tend to enjoy exercise, the quiet, and the ability to unobtrusively view the scenery and wildlife. There’s plenty of opportunity for all to enjoy being outdoors on the water. We simply need to give each other space.

ATTIRE

Paddling attire, such as dry suits, wet suits, life jackets, and floppy hats, is rarely regarded as fashionable. While many kayakers attempt to color coordinate their paddling gear, the priority is clearly to enhance visibility and provide protection from the elements. Bright colors, yellow, orange, and red, contrast well with the water.

An ongoing debate among kayakers is whether to dress to be in the water or out of the water. Dressing to be out of the water involves wearing layers to protect from the sun, cold, and weather. Usually these layers are quite light to allow freedom of movement and avoid overheating. Dressing to be in the water focuses on wearing clothing that provides protection from being in the water, particularly cold water. In warmer temperatures, lighter weight clothing may be worn. In colder climates with more frigid water temperatures, or where ocean currents carry cold water, wear layers, including a dry or wet suit.

A combination of a base layer, insulating layer, and outer layer (see chapter 1) offers good protection from environmental conditions that can affect safety. Protecting your hands, head, and feet from adverse elements also helps you enjoy sea kayaking safely.

EQUIPMENT

Emergency situations are uncommon in kayaking, but they do occur. Having the proper equipment, having the knowledge and skill to operate it properly, and being prepared with careful thought and planning make for safer kayaking and often keep the chain of events that lead to an emergency from interlocking. Plan for the worst and enjoy the best.

Kayak

Your primary piece of safety equipment is your kayak; it transports you out on the water and brings you back to shore. It provides a base from which you paddle, helps make you visible to other boaters and rescuers, and helps you stay afloat if you capsize (more on this later in this chapter). Spray skirts help maintain buoyancy and stability by keeping water out of the kayak cockpit.

Keeping your boat in great condition is critical. You can avoid a great deal of wear and tear on your boat by protecting it from damage caused by dragging it on the ground, scraping the bottom when launching, and driving it up on the beach when landing. When you do get a crack in the hull, repair it before you head back out onto the water. Make sure the fittings, cables, skegs, and rudders all function properly. Keeping your boat clean also makes it easier to grab and hold.

Life Jackets

The United States Coast Guard currently prefers the term “life jackets,” but whether you call it a personal flotation device or PFD, it is a primary piece of safety equipment. Safe boating mandates that you wear a life jacket whenever you kayak. Especially in cold water conditions, trying to put on your life jacket after you capsize is problematic at best, and takes valuable time that you should be spending getting back into your boat. Recreational kayakers should always wear their life jackets.

Fig. 3-3 Spray skirts and life jackets are essential pieces of safety equipment.

Fig. 3-4 Keep your spare paddle readily accessible.

Paddles

Another piece of critical safety equipment is your paddle, which provides propulsion to keep you from dangerous situations. Keeping a spare paddle readily accessible on the deck of your kayak provides an added level of safety in case you damage or lose your primary paddle. Many kayakers install PVC tubes, or use commercially-made paddle holders on the front deck of their kayak so that the paddle shaft is secure.

Other Safety Gear

Other standard rescue devices used by kayakers are signaling devices, paddle floats, bilge pumps, towing leashes, and stirrups. If a kayaker has difficulty climbing back into the boat from the water, a stirrup, made of nylon webbing and tied into a loop, provides a step and help up. Once back in the kayak, use a bilge pump to pump most of the remaining water out of the boat. A tow will help a fatigued paddler or remove a boat from a hazardous situation.

For all rescue and signaling devices, take time to learn their proper use, operation, and application. Understand manufacturers’ instructions and practice with the equipment. A rescue device will be less effective if you have to try to figure out how to use it during an emergency.

Coast Guard regulations require communications devices, such as a VHF marine radio or cell phone. With a cell phone, as long as you have coverage, you can quickly contact emergency responders, such as the local police or the Coast Guard. A radio lets you contact other vessels in your immediate area.

A tow is a piece of safety equipment used to move another paddler or the boat to a safer location. Tows consist of a towline, usually between 25 and 35 feet long, a pocket to hold the towline, a carabiner or clip that attaches the towline to the boat or is held by the person being assisted, a way to attach the tow to the rescuer—either a belt or straps to attach to the life jacket—and a quick release in case the rescuer needs to quickly disconnect. (Towing procedures are discussed later in this chapter.)

A paddle leash tethers the paddle to the kayak, handy for keeping track of your paddle should you capsize. Paddle leashes come in various configurations and are usually made of coiled, heavy plastic that at rest is a comfortable length for paddling without getting in the way, but can stretch to a longer length if needed. Paddle leashes are also handy if you frequently set your paddle down to take photographs or look at wildlife through binoculars.

A basic equipment component is a complete first-aid kit that addresses possible general first-aid emergencies, as well as injuries that could occur specifically in kayaking. The most common injuries in kayaking are hand blisters, muscular overuse (particularly shoulder muscles), and falls when walking on slippery rocks.

A helmet offers good head protection in situations such as paddling among rocky shorelines or launching and landing in surf.

NAVIGATION RULES AND RESPONSIBILITIES

When you operate any vessel on the water, you must follow a set of navigation rules and responsibilities established by the Coast Guard, your state or province, and local municipalities. It’s your responsibility to know, understand, and abide by these regulations. The primary purpose of navigation rules is to avoid collisions—between vessels or between a vessel and obstructions, such as rocks.

In the United States, two sets of rules (international and inland) govern waterways. The Coast Guard publishes them in Navigation Rules (International-Inland). The Coast Guard Commandant draws the lines of demarcation separating international and inland rules. In addition, state laws and municipal ordinances may be in effect in local waters. Not only that, each country has its own set of rules by which boaters must abide, so knowing the rules where you kayak is important. This section focuses on rules in the United States and outlines general rules and definitions, general responsibilities, and the use of lights and distress signals.

VESSEL CLASSIFICATIONS

Vessels are divided into three general classifications: power-driven, sailing, and human-powered. Each classification carries its own rules in the hierarchy of boating responsibility and right-of-way.

Generally, human-powered craft have right-of-way over sailboats, which have right-of-way over motorized boats. However, there are many situations where kayakers do not have right-of-way over other vessels and may be subject to fines if they do not follow navigation rules. For example, large commercial vessels whose movement is constrained by navigation lanes (marked on charts) or a deep water channel must be given a wide berth. Also, ferry boats or vessels under tow, working, or dead in the water have right-of-way over kayakers.

GENERAL RESPONSIBILITY RULE

The general responsibility rule has two aspects: the rule of good seamanship and the general prudential rule. The rule of good seamanship states that nothing excuses boaters from following the rules and practicing good seamanship. Further, in situations not covered by the rules, boaters must take appropriate action to maintain safety. The general prudential rule focuses on the use of common sense and states that when applying the rules, boaters must consider all the dangers and special circumstances of navigation and must depart from the rules to avoid imminent collision.

AVOIDING COLLISIONS

There are three situations in which a potential collision might occur:

When two vessels are heading directly for each other (dead ahead), both must give way to their right.

A vessel overtaking another must give way to the slower vessel.

The vessel to port (left) must give way to vessels to starboard (right).

Some basic rules that help kayakers avoid collisions are:

Paddle fairly close to the shore and away from the middle of channels.

Keep to the right.

Cross a channel only when it will not impede a vessel that can travel only in the channel or fairway (navigable part of a waterway).

Cross traffic lanes at right angles.

Paddle as quickly as possible across a channel.

Use your charts and be aware of the Vessel Traffic System and Traffic Separation Schemes marked on charts (see chapter 6).

Use Aids to Navigation (ATONs), such as buoys and fixed markers for your area, marked on charts, to help confirm your location.

When paddling your kayak, don’t assume that operators of other craft see you, know the rules, or care. If they don’t give way, be prepared to do so yourself. You can sound five short blasts on your whistle (a standard danger signal), but be prepared to give way, with default direction to the right.

LIGHTS

All vessels, including kayaks, are required to be lit between sunset and sunrise. Lighting boats makes it easier for vessels to see and to communicate with each other. Lights do not help boaters see where they are going. Small human-powered boats shorter than 22 feet (roughly 6.5 meters), which includes most kayaks, must have an electric flashlight or lantern with a constantly shining white light. Several models of navigation lights, specifically designed for kayaks, are available in kayak shops.

Larger boats and those powered by wind and sail are illuminated by a red light on the bow port side, a green light on the bow starboard side, and a white light at the stern, thereby allowing other boaters to determine their direction of travel. Larger ships display more navigation lights, but with the same color pattern.

DISTRESS SIGNALS

All boaters, as long as they will not put themselves in danger, are required to render assistance in marine emergencies, and are protected by the Good Samaritan clause. Distress signals are as follows:

Gun fired at intervals of one minute

Continuous sounding of a foghorn

Red star shells fired into the air

Morse code SOS signal (– – – · · · – – –) sent by radio, a flashing light, or other means

Radio signal consisting of the spoken word “Mayday”

Smoke signal

Slowly and repeatedly raising and lowering your arms outstretched to each side

High-intensity flashing light at regular intervals of 50 to 70 times per minute (applies to vessels in inland waters)

GROUP RESPONSIBILITY

When paddling with a group, consider the needs of the group above your own interest. You have a responsibility to stay with the group and be available to help as needed. In the event of capsize or any other emergency, the first rule of rescuing is to gather resources. All group members should be available to help. If they are not directly involved in a rescue, then they should stand by to assist as needed.

Be aware of the condition of the paddlers in your group. Consider how they are holding up, whether the pace challenges or bores them, and whether they find the conditions comfortable. Take into account their hydration and eating schedule and how well their equipment is functioning.

Fig. 3-5 It’s fun to paddle with friends.

WHY JOIN A GROUP?

GERRY HODGE

Gerry Hodge is a leader of the South Sound Kayaking Club in Olympia, Washington. He serves on the board of directors of Washington Water Trails Association and is a member of the Washington State Boating Safety Council. Gerry has led hundreds of trips and has much insight about paddling with a group.

Paddling with a group, whether an informal group of friends or an organized club, is a great way to develop friendships, enhance the level of safety, and share expertise. Here are a few reasons to and recommendations for being involved with group kayaking:

Helps your skills and confidence grow more quickly to have others around.

Look at other paddlers’ gear and get their reviews before you buy.

Find other paddlers with similar philosophies.

Explore new places to paddle.

Practice skills learned during formal lessons.

Gain a new social circle if you click with a group.

General group dynamics:

More formal groups limit the number of participants and are led by experts.

Informal or social paddling groups may have a contact person, but profess no level of expertise. Smaller groups are easier to keep together and safe, while larger groups can feel like herding cats.

Either way, never go off alone or allow another to do so. If you’re in front, don’t run off. Make sure the back of the group is accompanied by an experienced sweep.

Always offer to help others with their boats at the launch.

Take rest breaks approximately every 90 minutes.

Keep clear of powerboats at all times (even if you have the right-of-way).

Disturb wildlife as little as possible.

Tips for the group novice:

Bring chocolate.

Don’t wear cotton.

Always wear your life jacket, if not for yourself, for the person who may end up rescuing you.

Take care of your head, hands, feet, and torso for both comfort and safety.

Take advantage of the opportunity to practice your social skills.

Never fear your own ignorance. Those who assist you get more enjoyment from your learning process than you could ever imagine.

Have basic, well-chosen gear and build your inventory wisely.

Get regular seat time in your boat. Don’t be a DVD and book paddler.

Tips for the more experienced:

Keep your instructional advice short and simple.

Pay it forward by being active in your group and making novices feel welcome.

Take a minute several times during a paddle to read the body language of others, assess their comfort and spirit, and adjust the objectives of the paddle accordingly.

Always wear your life jacket. Set an example.

Listen to the voice of the least skilled paddler, even if it is silent.

Take a general boater education course. You will certainly learn many new things.

Safe boating is fundamental to exploring fun and unique waterways in a kayak. Attitude, attire, and equipment, along with an understanding of navigation rules and responsibilities, contribute to a safe boating experience.

HOW TO RESCUE

When you wind up in the water—it happens to all of us sooner or later—knowing how to get back into your kayak is critical to your safety. Learn rescue skills and practice them regularly. Not only will your paddle adventures be safer, but you will also be more confident and comfortable extending your explorations and developing your paddling skills.

If you do capsize and come out of your kayak, focus on getting back into your boat as quickly as you safely can. Features such as perimeter deck lines and readily accessible T-handles allow you and those you help grab, hold onto, and stay with your kayak.

It is important to practice getting back into your kayak after a capsize. Many kayakers learn recoveries in a swimming pool or protected waterways, and take their training no further. While learning to recover in calm, protected conditions is an important first step, in the real world kayakers rarely capsize in similar conditions. Practice in a rougher, more adverse environment, including the water temperatures in areas you wish to paddle, to enhance your ability to recover in more realistic conditions.

Every kayaker should learn how to recover after a capsize—how to help someone back into and be helped back into the boat—and how to recover unassisted. All paddlers who venture out onto the water in a kayak need to understand and practice these simple skills.

PRACTICE CAPSIZING

As you learn to kayak, one early lesson is how to get back in after you capsize. Capsizing and coming out of the kayak is generally known as a wet exit, because after you tip over, you exit the kayak and get wet. Mastering this very basic skill will allow you to more comfortably explore the limits of boat control, such as using edging and maintaining stability through your torso posture (see chapter 4).

The most important aspect of managing a capsize is to remain relaxed and calm. You hold yourself in a kayak by pressing your feet against the foot pedals or footrests and pressing your thighs against the thigh braces under the deck. After you become comfortable sitting in the kayak, have started to develop your dynamic stability, and have learned the basics of using the paddle to propel and maneuver the boat, it’s time to learn how to capsize and get back into the kayak.

The first step in learning kayak safety is becoming comfortable tipping over, being upside down in the water, exiting the kayak, and returning to the surface. To learn both to capsize and to develop your dynamic stability and edging skills (see chapter 4), practice edging. Increase the degree to which you put the kayak over on its side incrementally.

Begin with a very gentle edge, and develop your sense of centered body mass with the kayak in that position. Play with edging on both sides so you can edge both left and right. Then increase the degree to which you edge, and play with that for a while. Most experienced kayakers can edge their boat until a significant portion of their spray skirt is immersed. At some point you will no longer be able to maintain a vertical position in your kayak and you’ll capsize.

The first time you tip and perform a wet exit, you’ll probably want to get out of the kayak and to the surface as quickly as possible—a natural reaction. But over time and with practice, you’ll become more and more comfortable with being upside down underwater and be able to calmly follow the deliberate progression outlined below.

The first thing to remember when you tip over is to relax. Hanging upside down in a kayak can be very disorienting, but most paddlers learn to manage it calmly. If you keep your mouth closed, you’ll keep the water out! Gently exhale through your nose to keep a positive pressure in your sinuses to keep the water out of them as well. Also make sure you hold onto your paddle.

Now pop your spray skirt off the kayak. Place one hand (the other holds the paddle) on the side of the boat and feel for the cockpit rim. Then slide your hand forward along the rim until you reach the front of the cockpit. Find the grab loop on the front of the skirt, grasp it firmly, lean forward toward the deck stretching the skirt forward off the front of the cockpit rim, and then simultaneously pull back on the loop with your arm and extend your torso away from the deck (lean back) to pull the skirt off the cockpit rim. A properly sized spray skirt will fit snugly but pop right off the boat.

Fig. 3-6 Get comfortable edging your kayak.

Once the skirt is off the cockpit rim, place your hands on the deck on either side of your body (while still holding the paddle in one hand), press away from the boat as if you’re lifting yourself from an armchair, and roll forward. This movement will direct your head toward the surface and your legs will come out of the cockpit. If you have a keyhole cockpit, place one leg above the other to clear the sides of the keyhole, and slide one leg out at a time. Your properly fitted and Coast Guard–approved life jacket will automatically bring you to the surface.

ASSISTED RESCUES

Once you capsize and are floating in the water, holding on to both kayak and paddle, there are several ways to get back into your kayak, and many variations of each type of rescue. Whether you have help determines your approach. If you have help, you perform an assisted rescue. If you don’t, you execute a self-rescue.

In most of our paddling adventures, we are accompanied by others. Kayaking in a group enhances safety by increasing the resources available to assist with capsizes and emergencies. When someone paddling with a group capsizes, an assisted rescue speeds the paddler’s recovery back into the kayak and minimizes the time the swimmer spends immersed. Assisted rescues are the most common form of rescue and are quick and effective methods to recover a capsized kayaker. Capsizes are not unusual in kayaking, and preparing for effective rescue is fundamental. With practice, all paddlers will easily master these procedures.

RESCUE SKILLS MATTER

SHAWNA FRANKLIN

Shawna Franklin is the first woman in the United States to gain the BCU 5 Star Leader Sea Award, a test of skills and leadership in advanced sea conditions. Testing these hard-earned skills in 2003, she was the first woman to successfully circumnavigate Iceland with famed solo paddler Chris Duff and Leon Sommé, a trip of more than 1600 nautical miles in 81 days. In 2007 Shawna circumnavigated the Islands of Haida Gwaii, British Columbia, with award-winning filmmaker Justine Curgenven and partner Leon Sommé. As an artist, she is drawn to the sea for inspiration. Her paddling skills allow her a deeper artistic inspiration, and in turn, many feel her paddling skills have become a form of art. Shawna has been paddling and teaching for more than 17 years. Here she shares her enthusiasm for teaching and paddling and sense of adventure.

I pull with every muscle of my body. I grunt and pull, strain, and scream, “Go, go, GO!” The screaming helps me to focus all of my energy into each pull of my blade. I am not thinking about the wind or the waves. I am only thinking about going forward. I feel like I am inching back out to sea. I am making such slow progress. I need to get out past the breaking waves and to a place where I can empty his kayak and get him back in. I know that if we get hit with another wave the size that hit him and flipped him up and over backward, that we are done for. I know that I am giving every bit of energy that I have, and if I have to do another rescue or rescue myself that we are done for. This is it. This is for real.

—Shawna’s journal entry, May 30, 2003

When we first started paddling we knew by adventuring out onto the sea that we needed to be prepared for the day that things didn’t go entirely as planned. In those early days at the end of each of our day trips, with the thought that we could soon be in dry clothes and a warm car, we would practice a rescue and a roll. As we developed, we sought out more experienced paddlers and coaches to help further our knowledge and to challenge us in the conditions that we would eventually paddle in. This preparation paid off in May 2003 when we found ourselves isolated on the South Coast of Iceland on a 1600-mile expedition in what would become a hurricane force storm. Our practice and knowledge were put to the test, and we passed.

In preparation for an effective rescue, consider some fundamental principles: personal boat handling skills, fitness, guidance from qualified coaches, practice, a thorough risk assessment, and review. Being able to maneuver your boat successfully to a victim and handle his boat with ease while keeping yourself safe will make the rescue process go smoothly.

Working with other coaches will give you valuable information about how to make rescues faster and easier and broaden the toolbox of methods to solve unanticipated problems. Practicing your rescues in a variety of environments and then reviewing what went well and what did not will go a long way toward possessing a rescue method that will work when you need it to.

A rescue must be simple, fast, and effective. Communication, eye contact, and contact with boat and equipment are all paramount. It is important that the rescue works with skilled and unskilled paddlers alike. If something does go wrong, have a contingency plan in place that can fix the problem quickly. Paddling with people who support each other and having a rescue scenario that adapts easily to everyone’s needs are integral.

To paddle in the sea safely and enjoyably, invest a lot of time and energy to preparing. It’s best not to have to rescue someone in the first place, but if you have to rescue someone or be rescued, it is comforting to know that you will know what to do when you absolutely need to.

The key steps to recovering from a wet exit and getting back into your kayak are these (not necessarily in this order):

Stabilize your safety or the safety of the person you’re recovering.

Control the equipment.

Group together.

Empty the kayak of water.

Get back into the boat.

Organize for continued paddling.

STABILIZE SAFETY CONDITIONS

After you have come out of the kayak in a comfortable and controlled manner and returned to the surface after a wet exit, stabilize your personal safety. Once at the surface, keep your mouth shut until you are certain that it’s clear of the water. Keep your life jacket on, snugly buckled and zipped. It will keep you at the water’s surface even in the most challenging conditions. If at all possible, maintain solid contact with your kayak, by holding it by the cockpit rim, the perimeter deck lines, or a T-handle.

Orient yourself so that you are aware of your position relative to other kayakers in your group. To assess your position locate safety hazards, such as waves, as well as obstacles, such as rocks or other watercraft, in the immediate vicinity. Also assess wind and currents that could carry you into a dangerous position. If necessary, before you can recover and get back into the boat, another member of your group may need to tow you and your kayak to a safer location.

CONTROL THE EQUIPMENT

Do not leave your kayak in an attempt to swim to shore or for any other reason. Your primary piece of safety equipment, your kayak provides flotation, will let you safely continue your trip, and is the most visible piece of equipment available to you to attract assistance.

After a kayak capsizes and the kayaker has made a wet exit, the boat usually comes to rest upside down. If you’re being assisted back into your kayak, you can help by turning the kayak right side up. Generally, kayaks with upturned bows are easier to recover with assistance right side up, while others can be left upside down. Practice both methods and learn which works best for you. If you’re self-rescuing, it’s best to leave the kayak upside down.

Fig. 3-7 Stay with your kayak and hold onto your paddle. (Photo by Steve Jones)

Either way, you’ll need to hold onto your kayak with one hand and your paddle with the other while you float. To practice becoming more comfortable with this situation, move around your kayak while you’re in the water and learn the various places that you can comfortably stay in contact with the boat and keep hold of it—the cockpit, perimeter deck lines, T-handles, bow, and stern.

GROUP TOGETHER

Once a kayaker has capsized, made a wet exit, and is at the surface, in contact with the boat and paddle, it’s time to get together with the rescuing kayaker. It is paramount for the rescuing kayaker (rescuer) to provide a safe environment and monitor the kayaker in the water (swimmer). Whenever possible, the rescuer should approach the swimmer from downwind or down current. Paddling into the wind or current will give rescuers a more controlled approach and help them maintain a higher level of safety. As the group comes together, ensure that the swimmer is not between two boats but on the far side (or outside) of the capsized kayak.

Once the kayaks are grouped together, the rescuer places her paddle in front of her body, holding it against her torso with her elbows and upper arms. In this position the rescuer’s hands are free to lift and empty the capsized kayak, and her paddle is under control and readily available to use quickly if needed. The swimmer hands his paddle to the rescuer, who then places the paddle right next to hers and secures both paddles against her body with her elbows and upper arms. At first this position may feel awkward, but with practice it becomes quite comfortable.

Whenever possible the swimmer should move to the front of the rescuing kayak, hand over hand, without losing contact with either of the kayaks. In that position, the rescuer can monitor the swimmer’s responsiveness and ability to maintain normal, calm behavior.

EMPTY THE KAYAK OF WATER

Emptying the kayak before the swimmer reenters it usually takes less total time and allows the group to continue their trip more quickly. However, it requires the swimmer to remain in the water, or at least lie on the deck of another kayak, while his boat is emptied. Generally, if the swimmer is comfortable in the water, empty the kayak before he reenters it.

If the swimmer needs to get out of the water as quickly as possible, either because conditions are not calm or are unsafe for longer exposure, he can instead reenter the kayak before it is emptied and then use his bilge pump to drain his kayak, but it is time-consuming and may be fatiguing. However, reentry before draining means the swimmer is immersed for a shorter period.

Fig. 3-8 Don’t get between the kayaks; stay outside them. (Photo by Steve Jones)

Fig. 3-9 Rescuer has both paddles in position. (Photo by Steve Jones)

Fig. 3-10 Swimmer at bow of rescuing kayak (Photo by Steve Jones)

Perform a T-Rescue

As long as conditions are safe, the rescuer has the physical strength to pull the capsized kayak on top of her boat, and the swimmer is calm, the next step is to drain the swamped kayak using a T-rescue. A T-rescue is the quickest assisted-rescue method for draining a kayak, getting the swimmer back into the boat, and getting under way.

To perform a T-rescue, the rescuer positions the swamped kayak so it’s perpendicular to her boat, with the bow in front of her body. She may need to slide the capsized kayak forward or backward and twist it into position perpendicular to her kayak and in front of her body—thus forming a T. It’s critical that she maintain solid contact with the capsized kayak, by holding the perimeter deck lines or the bow T-handle to keep it from drifting away in the current or blowing away in the wind.

The rescuer then pulls the bow of the swamped kayak across her boat in front of her body until the cockpit is clear of the water. Then she rolls the swamped kayak upside down by grabbing the side of the swamped kayak farthest away from her and pulling it over toward her. Pulling the kayak toward her while turning it over allows the rescuer to maintain better control over the boat; pushing it away makes it easier for the boat to get away, especially in choppy conditions. Once the cockpit is above the surface, the swamped kayak will drain. If it does not completely drain, the rescuer can simply pull it up a little farther while it’s upside down to let the last of the water drain.

Fig. 3-11 Performing an assisted T-rescue (Photo by Steve Jones)

Once the water has drained, the rescuer can turn the kayak right side up. As before, the rescuer reaches toward the far side of the kayak, grasps the boat (usually by perimeter deck lines), and turns it right side up by pulling it toward herself. After the emptied kayak is right side up, while maintaining the perpendicular “T” position, she slides it back into the water.

Now it’s time for the rescuer to position the emptied kayak parallel to her kayak, to form a raft of the two kayaks. If the rescuer can position the emptied kayak in the opposite direction of her boat, she can keep the swimmer in front of and facing her, stabilize the emptied kayak by lying across it in front of the cockpit, and help the swimmer back into his boat. To create a raft with the two kayaks, the rescuer lies across the deck and grabs the emptied kayak tightly. The swimmer then moves from the bow of the rescuer’s kayak, along the outside of his recently emptied boat, and to the side of his boat next to his cockpit.

GET BACK INTO THE BOAT

There are three basic methods for reentering the kayak: climbing in, rolling in, and using a stirrup.

Climbing In

Climbing in is the most common and usually the quickest, but the swimmer must have the upper body strength to pull himself from the water across two kayaks. Once the rescuer has positioned the kayaks parallel to each other and facing in opposite directions, the swimmer moves along the outside of the emptied kayak, while maintaining solid contact with the boat, to the cockpit.

Next, the swimmer lies as flat on top of the water as possible, with his feet right at the surface. Then he kicks his feet and pulls himself forward and horizontally to move on top of the two kayaks. The rescuer can help by grabbing the swimmer’s life jacket shoulder strap and pulling him across, but the swimmer must make the real effort. The swimmer pulls, scootches, and wiggles across the kayaks so that both boats support his weight. The swimmer should move as horizontally as possible to get across the two boats, stay low, and support his weight on both kayaks. Otherwise it’s very difficult for the rescuer to keep the two kayaks upright.

As the swimmer moves across the two kayaks, he must keep his head toward the stern of his kayak so that he can swing his legs into the cockpit of his kayak. Once the swimmer’s weight is equally supported by both boats and his head is toward his kayak’s stern, he can move his legs, one at a time, into the cockpit and start to slide into his boat facedown. Once his abdomen is at the aft edge of his cockpit, he can roll over onto his back. To help maintain stability, he should roll his buttocks away from the rescuer. As he rolls, he slides into the kayak and sits on the seat.

Fig. 3-12 Assisted Rescue a. Rescuer lies across the decks of both kayaks while the swimmer remains horizontal on the surface of the water; b. Swimmer crawls and wiggles across both kayaks; c. Swimmer turns his head toward the stern of his kayak; d. Swimmer slides into his kayak face down; e. Swimmer rolls over to be face up; f. The kayakers stay together until the swimmer has his skirt snapped on and paddles are back in the hands of both kayakers. (Photos by Steve Jones)

The rescuer continues to lean heavily on the emptied kayak while the swimmer makes sure he is solidly back in his boat and reattaches his spray skirt. The rescuer hands the swimmer his paddle, and they’re ready to continue their tour.

Rolling In

When the swimmer is unable to pull himself across the two kayaks, another alternative is to roll in. As with climbing in, the swimmer must stay as low and horizontal as possible. Rolling in also uses the T-rescue to drain the boat and position the kayaks parallel to each other and facing opposite directions. Additionally, the swimmer starts at the same place to get back into the boat: next to the cockpit and on the outside of the two rafted kayaks. But rather than climbing across the raft, the swimmer rolls in.

Rolling in requires less upper body strength from the swimmer than climbing in, but more water tends to get back into the kayak during the rescue. The rescuer must maintain the raft, but also let the emptied kayak dip down toward the swimmer to allow him to reenter. Try to minimize the amount of water that gets back into the kayak, but keep in mind that the swimmer can always pump the boat out.

To reenter his kayak, the swimmer faces his boat, lifts the leg that’s closest to the bow, and slides it into the cockpit. He then extends his body toward the stern and grabs the perimeter deck lines on the far side of his kayak. Then, pulling with his arms and prying with his leg that’s in the cockpit, he moves his body over the cockpit and rolls facedown onto the back deck of his kayak. The rescuer can help by grabbing his life jacket’s shoulder strap and pulling him across his boat.

Once he is lying facedown on the back deck of his kayak with one leg inside the cockpit and is stabilized, he shifts his other leg toward the center of the kayak and gets it into the cockpit as well. He is now lying facedown on the back deck with both legs in the boat. From this position, he uses the same process as the climb-in method: rolling over, sliding into the cockpit to sit on the seat, reattaching the spray skirt, taking the paddle, and continuing on his way.

Stirrup

The climb-in and roll-in methods are both quick and effective, but they require strength to pull across or roll into the kayak. A third alternative, if the swimmer does not have the strength to accomplish these methods, is to use a stirrup, a piece of flat webbing usually about 12 feet (4 meters) long tied into a loop, which is set up as a step for climbing into the boat. The stirrup method uses the T-rescue to empty the kayak and position it parallel to the rescuer and facing in the opposite direction; then the rescuer sets up the stirrup.

The rescuer places the stirrup over the swimmer’s kayak so that part of the loop hangs down into the water between the kayaks, with the stirrup around the cockpit. The rest of the loop hangs down into the water on the far side of the emptied kayak. The rescuer places the swimmer’s paddle under the two kayaks and through the loop that hangs down between the two boats, so the paddle is perpendicular to the length of the kayaks.

The swimmer can now step on the stirrup. Downward pressure on the stirrup will pull the paddle shaft up against the bottom of the two kayaks and hold the stirrup in place. The swimmer can then lie across the two kayaks and follow the same process as for the climb-in method.

ORGANIZE FOR CONTINUED PADDLING

Once the rescue is complete, assess the rescued kayaker’s condition to ensure that he is fit (mentally and physically) and able to continue. If beach conditions allow, this may be a great time for a break. Make sure that any equipment attached to the kayak deck is secure and not dragging in the water. Check in with each group member to make sure they are also comfortable proceeding with the trip. And then off you go!

SELF-RESCUE

If a kayaker paddles alone (not recommended), he must be able to perform a self-rescue. A quick recovery will allow a capsized paddler to continue his trip with minimal interruption or to move away from hazardous conditions. The two most common methods of self-rescue are the paddle float rescue and the Eskimo roll.

PADDLE FLOAT RESCUE

The paddle float rescue uses an inflatable or rigid foam paddle float, which a kayaker can attach to one blade of a kayak paddle. This outrigger increases the base of support while he reenters the kayak after a wet exit. All paddle floats have a flotation component, an envelope, and a bungee or cord. One of the kayak paddle blades fits into the envelope, and the cord holds the float in place.

Choosing an inflatable or a rigid foam float is a matter of personal preference. Inflatable floats are very small and compact, making them easy to carry and store. However, because they must be inflated, they increase the paddler’s time in the water before he can get back into the kayak. If you choose an inflatable float, make sure it has two separate inflatable chambers, which provides redundancy in case one of the chambers is punctured. Rigid foam paddle floats are ready to go all the time, but they are bulky and harder to store.

During normal paddling, keep the float in a secure location readily accessible from the center of the kayak. Common storage locations are under the deck bungee cords, either in front of or behind the cockpit, or along the inside of the kayak between the side of the seat and hull. Foam floats are usually stored under the deck bungees aft of the cockpit. Storing the paddle float inside the hatch will make it inaccessible when you most need it.

If you intend to complete a self-rescue using a paddle float after a wet exit, stabilize safety conditions by assessing possible hazards, just as for an assisted rescue. The next step—again, just as in an assisted rescue—is to control the equipment. Make sure your kayak and paddle are in hand and secure. To control the kayak while keeping your hands free to set up the paddle float, lie on your back, keep the kayak upside down, and stick one of your legs into the cockpit as far as you can reach. Press your legs together, with the kayak deck between them, to maintain solid contact with the boat if necessary.

Once you have your boat under control, it’s time to set up your paddle float. Take the float from its storage location, and install it on your paddle by sliding a paddle blade into the envelope. On some floats, the blade first slides through the securing bungee or cord; others have a clip that you snap into place after wrapping the cord around the kayak paddle shaft at the neck of the blade. Secure the cord to keep the paddle blade from sliding out of the envelope. For inflatable paddle floats, blow into the manual inflating tube to fill the float with air.

Remove your stabilizing leg from the kayak’s cockpit and turn the boat right side up. Place the paddle shaft across the back deck right behind the cockpit, with the paddle float perpendicular to the side of your kayak, then grasp the paddle shaft and cockpit rim with one hand. Keep a solid grip on both paddle shaft and cockpit rim throughout the recovery process. Be prepared to switch hands as needed, but always keep a solid grip with at least one hand. To maximize the paddle’s base of support, extend the float as far away from the boat as possible.

To get onto the kayak, lie as horizontal as possible on your chest in the water. Throughout this entire recovery process, remain as low and horizontal as possible, which keeps your center of mass low, especially in rough conditions.

With your head close to the kayak, hook the foot and leg that are closest to the stern over the top of the paddle shaft near the float. Pull yourself up with the arm that is holding onto the kayak while pressing down on the paddle shaft with your leg and other arm. Press down just enough to remain stable; you don’t want to sink the float. Pull, scootch, and wiggle up on the kayak, keeping as much of your weight as you can centered on the kayak. As you work your way onto the back deck, your head will go toward the stern until you reach the point where you can get the leg closest to the front of the kayak into the cockpit.

Then swing your other leg off the paddle shaft and into the cockpit while keeping light pressure on the float with your arm. Once your legs are in the cockpit, roll over facing away from the paddle float, with your buttocks toward the float. As you roll over, slide into the cockpit until you can sit on the seat. Now, take a big breath and relax!

You will need to switch hands at some point when you roll over. While holding the paddle shaft and cockpit rim with one hand, move the other hand from the shaft away from the side of the kayak next to the first hand. Grab the paddle shaft and cockpit rim with both hands. Then slide the hand originally holding both cockpit rim and shaft down the shaft and into the stabilizing position down the shaft. This keeps a constant contact between the cockpit rim of the kayak and paddle shaft throughout the entire hand shift.

Fig. 3-13 Self-rescue with a paddle float a. Inflate the paddle float; b. Set up paddle perpendicular to the kayak; c. Climb across the kayak, remembering to stay low; d. Put one leg into the cockpit at a time; e. Lie face down and flat on the back deck; f. Roll over in the cockpit. (Photos by Steve Jones)

Bring your paddle in front of your body. Secure the paddle in front of your body, holding it against your abdomen with your elbows and upper arms. Use your bilge pump to pump water out of the kayak if immediately necessary.

Assess your position on the water. If you are in a potentially dangerous position and you need to move to safety, reattach your spray skirt, clip the float to a bungee or perimeter deck line, and paddle to a safer location.

When you are safe, pump the remaining water from the cockpit, unclip your paddle float (deflating it if it’s an inflatable float), and return it and your bilge pump to their normal storage location. If you haven’t already done so, reattach your spray skirt and you’re ready to go!

TOWING

Basic towing offers a means to remove a capsized paddler and his kayak from a dangerous situation, or to help a fatigued paddler continue moving along. A sea kayak tow is composed of a means of attaching the towed kayak to the tower, usually a webbing belt fitted to a life jacket designed for towing, or a waist belt. The tow line, usually 25 to 35 feet in length (8 to 12 meters), is stored in a pouch, attached to the webbing at one end and has a clip fitted to the towing end. All tows have a quick release mechanism that allows the tower to release what she is towing if she cannot continue towing safely.

To tow a fatigued paddler, the tower clips the tow line onto the perimeter deck line at the bow and paddles forward, allowing the line to pay out. As she comes to the full length of the line, she slows, takes up the slack, and, keeping a steady pace, pulls forward. Towing a capsized boat from a dangerous situation involves moving both the capsized kayaker and boat, with the capsized kayaker always the first priority. One approach is to have the capsized kayaker lie on the back deck of one kayak while another kayak takes up the tow. Both kayaker and boat can then be paddled to safety. After towing is completed, and all paddlers are in a safe location, repack the tow line into the storage bag so it is ready for the next time it is needed.

ESKIMO ROLL

By far, the most effective self-rescue is an Eskimo roll. It allows a kayaker to right his boat without exiting the kayak or removing his spray skirt. This quick recovery lasts a few seconds, compared to the several minutes that any wet exit and recovery takes. Although it takes some time and practice, most kayakers can learn it. Many, however, need to learn this skill one-on-one with an instructor.

There are many variants on the Eskimo roll. The most common roll that touring sea kayakers use is the sweep roll. Kayakers maintain their normal hand position on the paddle, so they are not shifting to a new position underwater, and also have their hands in position for paddling immediately after righting themselves. It also keeps your joints within a relatively safe range of motion, thereby limiting the likelihood of injury, particularly to your shoulders.

Fig. 3-14 The Eskimo roll

Once you have a sense of dynamic stability in the boat and can use the kayak paddle as an effective tool, you are ready to start learning the Eskimo roll. To start, spend some time capsizing, hanging upside down in your kayak in the water, and then making a wet exit, until it becomes a comfortable exercise. Once you are upside down in the water and holding yourself in your kayak with your legs, here’s how to set up for a right side roll with a right-control paddle: Flex your torso forward toward the left side of the kayak. Extend your right paddle blade up into the air, with the blade forward and horizontal, parallel to the water. Feel your forearms against the left side of the kayak, with your chest over your left knee and your head toward the left side of the kayak.

To initiate the roll, with a light touch, gently glide the right paddle blade across the surface of the water by extending your torso along the water surface (Fig. 3-14a). Pull against the inside of your right thigh and flex your torso and hips right laterally, to pull your body’s center of mass over the kayak’s center of buoyancy (Fig. 3-14b). Keep all pressure off your left thigh and left footrest—it raises your torso prematurely and makes the right paddle blade slice and dive into the water, causing the roll to fail.

To finish the roll, rotate your torso to the right while keeping your elbows against and in front of your torso (Fig. 3-14c). Keep your hands close to and in front of your shoulders, elbows pointed down and slightly forward. Keep your shoulders and head down and in the water as long as possible and finish with your head turned to your right side, touching your right shoulder with your chin and looking down the paddle shaft (Fig. 3-14d). Extend your wrists to help keep the paddle horizontal and at the surface. It’s critical to remain relaxed and not force a roll; be smooth and maintain light pressure; use technique rather than force.

An instructor can help guide and accelerate your learning.

CHAPTER 4

Skills: Understanding Movement Dynamics and Developing Technique

Kayaking is a wonderful activity that’s easy to start. Yet a kayaker can take a lifetime to develop the array of possible skills it involves. Once you have learned the basics about moving around in your kayak, you can begin to focus on developing dynamic stability, power transmission and generation, an efficient forward stroke, and maneuvering skills—including side slipping, edging, and bracing—that engage your entire body with your paddle and kayak. Your skills will improve with practice, but it also helps to have someone objectively evaluate your skill development and suggest tactics to help you progress. These skills are fun to learn in and of themselves, and once developed, they allow you to extend your kayaking adventures to exciting new destinations.

Kayaking, particularly the kayak forward stroke, is a cyclical endurance activity: essentially, a motion that’s repeated over and over, in this case to move forward. All cyclical endurance activities, such as walking, running, bicycling, swimming, and rowing, have a very similar basic cycle: a power transmission phase in which a person generates movement within a cycle and a recovery phase during which a person prepares for the next power transmission phase.

To propel a kayak in any direction, especially when paddling forward, a kayaker must generate power and transmit it to move the boat. To improve your kayaking skills, then, make your forward stroke mechanics (movement patterns) as efficient as possible. In this way you can maximize the distance your kayak travels from a given amount of effort. An efficient forward stroke maximizes forward movement while minimizing the forces that slow you down.

You can maximize your forward movement by incorporating dynamic movement, applying body mass to the paddle during the power transmission phase, and positioning the paddle blade to move the kayak forward for more of each stroke cycle. Critical to power generation and transmission is to engage your larger muscles and rely less on smaller muscles. In particular, think about pulling the boat past the paddle in the water by rotating your hips, torso, and shoulders, so you pull from the larger muscles of your trunk (especially transverse abdominus and latisimus dorsi) and shoulders rather than from your arms (biceps brachii) and flexed elbow. In this example, your arms, rather than provide power, link your body and the paddle. Larger muscles not only generate greater power, they have much greater endurance.

Actions that slow you down include a slow catch, which increases braking forces, and dragging the paddle in the water at the exit. So within each paddle stroke cycle, you can both help move the kayak forward and keep it from slowing down. Dynamic stability, power transmission, and power generation are the core elements of an efficient power stroke.

DYNAMIC STABILITY

Fundamental to developing all kayaking skills is the ability to become more and more dynamically stable. Dynamic stability is the ability to maintain your body’s center of mass over the kayak’s center of buoyancy. It allows you to load your body weight onto the paddle to generate greater power paddling forward, and to put the kayak up on edge to control its direction or turn in and out of a current, without having to lean on the paddle, resulting in unnecessary drag that slows the boat. Using your paddle as a crutch limits your dynamic movement, or reaction to conditions—and causes you to drag your paddle, as well as use other inefficient techniques that consume an extraordinarily large amount of effort and energy.

Fig. 4-1 Dynamic stability: a and b. Keep your body’s center of mass over the kayak’s center of buoyancy; c. Dynamic instability results when the body’s center of mass and the kayak’s center of buoyancy are out of alignment.

Some paddlers stabilize their kayak every third or fourth stroke by pressing the paddle blade down onto the surface (called bracing). They can’t steer other than by bracing or dragging their paddle. When they drag their paddle or brace, they slow or even stop their forward movement. Then they must use energy to reaccelerate, only to brace again or drag their paddle, and repeat the cycle. These paddlers always fall behind their paddling pals, and they have a very difficult time finding paddling partners. Instead of relying on this inefficient approach, develop dynamic stability by using your core muscles, sitting upright, and engaging your autonomic nervous system.

USE YOUR CORE

To become more dynamically stable, you must first become aware of and know how to control your body’s center of mass. Most humans’ center of mass lays approximately halfway between the base of the ribs and top of the pelvis. It’s within the abdominal region, often referred to as your core. Most human movement is centered around this core. By using the muscles that mostly originate or insert (attach) around your core—muscles of your hips, abdomen, and lower back—you can control your dynamic stability in most situations. The same as learning to ride a bicycle, you learn to use your core muscles to maintain your center of mass over the kayak’s center of buoyancy through practice—it’s a neuromuscular adaptation learned through practice.

MAINTAIN AN UPRIGHT SITTING POSITION

Learning dynamic stability also requires that you sit up tall in the kayak to maintain the line of force vertically from your center of mass above the kayak’s center of buoyancy. Hold your spine in a vertical or near vertical position without slumping against the backrest. Many paddlers also slightly tilt their pelvis forward (anterior pelvic tilt), which places their spine in a more natural, neutral position that allows them to rotate their torso more freely and to reach farther ahead to move the kayak a greater distance with each stroke. This sitting position engages your core muscles to assist with posture, reducing some of the load (strain) on your lower back.

Additionally, as a kayaker develops dynamic stability, she becomes increasingly able to shift her body mass onto the paddle intentionally, which is a key factor in increasing power. And last, when the spine is in a more neutral position with the kayaker’s center of mass above the kayak’s center of buoyancy, the kayaker can more readily react to waves or currents that disrupt this position and more reflexively return her center of mass to a stable position.

This upright paddling position needs to be fluid and dynamic, not rigid. When you are paddling in a wide range of conditions, especially those with various wave actions acting on your kayak, being able to allow the kayak to tilt (roll) up and down, with one side raised above the other, while maintaining dynamic stability enhances your comfort and boat control. Through practice, your body learns to coordinate muscle activation through a wide range of kayak roll. Paddling in a variety of environments and using your paddle for propulsion and direction, not as a crutch for stability, will help you develop this skill. Through practice, your body will learn dynamic stability.

ENGAGE YOUR AUTONOMIC NERVOUS SYSTEM

You become more and more comfortable in a kayak as the muscles around your spine (erector spinae), abdomen (abdominals), and pelvis (hip flexors and extensors, abductors, and adductors) learn to react to the kayak’s changing position. Muscle coordination is a function of the organized manner in which your nervous system activates muscles. Initially, because you have to think about raising and lowering one of your hips, you engage your voluntary (sympathetic) nervous system and the large muscles it activates. But over time, your body learns how to maintain this control on its own. The muscles along your spine and pelvis learn how to react to the changing kayak position without your conscious thought—your body just does it. Engaging your involuntary (autonomic) nervous system allows you to react without thinking about how to move and is fundamental to maintaining your posture in a kayak.

Your autonomic nervous system processes the postural component of its activity within your spinal cord. Signals do not need to be first transmitted up to your brain to prompt you to decide what to do, and then be transmitted to the muscles involved. Using your autonomic nervous system allows for quicker and more precise reactions. A doctor will often test this type of nervous system activity by tapping the base of your kneecap.

When you are learning dynamic stability, you often overcompensate, which excessively activates muscles and results in your tipping toward the opposite direction. With practice, the motor signals are processed within your spinal cord, meaning that you can react quicker with less muscle activation. We use this approach to learn to perform all kinds of stabilizing motions, such as standing, walking, riding a bicycle, and paddling.

Most everyone can learn to engage their autonomic nervous system and become comfortable in kayaks in most paddling conditions. At the beginning level, it usually requires between twenty minutes and a few hours. The amount of time is a function of your body’s ability to rely less and less on your sympathetic nervous system and allow your autonomic nervous system to engage.

If you are tense while sitting in your kayak, you activate your sympathetic nervous system, which overrides your autonomic nervous system, thereby inhibiting the development of your autonomic reactions. So just relax, exhale, and give your body a chance to learn to react without your having to think about it!

If you constantly rely on your paddle for stability support, you are activating your sympathetic nervous system and overriding your autonomic nervous system. The paddle helps you propel and maneuver your kayak. If you rely on the paddle for stability, either by dragging the blade in the water during the stroke or by bracing frequently, you are inhibiting your autonomic nervous system’s development. Your dynamic stability will also be inhibited, and you will be less comfortable in and have less control over your kayak, especially as conditions become more challenging. Learn to take the stroke you want to maneuver your kayak, and then get the blade out of the water. Give your body a chance to develop its normal, natural, intrinsic ability to become dynamically stable.

POWER TRANSMISSION

All human movements result from a series of power transmissions based on physical effort and movement of bone segments, such as our arms, shoulders, and legs, which are linked by joints. Effective transfer of force involves closed circles of joint segments (a physical structure known as a closed kinematic chain), joint segments in straight lines, and joint segments on geometric planes. For example, the kinematic chain for the kayak forward stroke connects the blade in the water, through the arms, shoulders, torso, and hips to the contact points in the boat of the buttocks and through the legs to the feet on the footrest.

Additionally, the direction and magnitude of force vectors always seek a direct or straight direction of power transfer. Forces go through the kinematic chain in as straight a direction as possible, with the weakest joint and segment being the limiting factor in force transfer.

THINK ABOUT YOUR JOINTS

Your body connects the paddle and the kayak—a closed kinematic chain that lets you transfer propulsive force. When you paddle, you place the paddle blade in the water and, through physical effort, pull the kayak past the place where the blade is in the water. The paddle blade moves very little through the water—it’s you and the kayak that move. How you position your body segments, your joints, and your center of mass affects your ability to apply a magnitude and direction of force. Adjusting your movement, combined with your sitting position (described above), the paddle’s position (described below), and environmental forces at play, can help you transfer force more efficiently without expending more effort.

Fig. 4-2 Overlapping circles illustrate the kinematic chain.

To maximize force transfer and economize physical effort, position your joint segments in relatively straight lines. For example, you position your onside or pulling arm in straight lines when you paddle. This position transfers the pulling force from your torso and shoulder rotation directly to moving the kayak forward. You engage the bones of your arm, connective tissue, and some muscle to transfer the force. In contrast, if you begin a stroke with a bent elbow, to involve torso and shoulder rotation, you must isometrically hold your elbow at the same angle. This isometric muscle activation is very fatiguing and weaker than the straight arm alternative, limiting the amount of force you can generate.

Fig. 4-3 Paddling with a bent elbow is less efficient and more fatiguing. (Photo by Steve Jones)

We are hinged creatures. Our joints operate through a range of motion from fully extended through an arc to fully flexed. The strongest position for most joints is toward the middle of the arc. Here, the joint mechanics, as well as the manner in which muscle activates, offers the potential for the greatest force generation. For example, when you kayak, you transfer force from your top hand down through the shaft to the paddle blade in the water to move forward. The strongest position to load force is for your shoulder, elbow, and wrist to be at about the same height, the shoulder and elbow extended about halfway through the range of motion, which in this case is a little less than 90 degrees at the shoulder and a little more than 90 degrees at the elbow.

Fig. 4-4 More efficient paddling results when the shoulder, elbow, and wrist are at the same level. (Photo by Steve Jones)

Anytime you position your joint segments on a plane, you can transfer power more effectively through your skeletal structure, thereby taking the load off of your muscles. A fun way to think about effective body positioning is by picturing planes of power.

Think of your joint segments as being on a geometric plane (a surface defined by at least three noncollinear points). Imagine a plane defined by the paddle shaft between your top hand in front of your forehead to your bottom (onside) hand stretched forward, your top arm from your hand to your shoulder pulled back, your torso between top and bottom shoulders, and your bottom (onside) arm from your shoulder extended ahead to your forward hand where the onside hand grasps the paddle shaft. Those linear segments—paddle shaft, torso, and two arms—create a very powerful shape for transferring force to propel the kayak forward. If a paddler keeps these segments on the same plane, she can apply force in the water with greater magnitude than if the segments are not aligned. These segments work together and in the same direction to apply power.

Fig. 4-5 This kayaker has his joints properly aligned to exert maximum force.

Fig. 4-6 This kayaker’s joints are not properly aligned.

In contrast, imagine the paddle held low, your elbows bent and at your side, and your shoulders square. This structure does not transfer force effectively. Here, since the segments are not moving in the same direction and as a unit, the paddler cannot apply force in a unified direction and coordinated manner.

OPTIMAL BLADE POSITION

Your paddle blade’s position in the water strongly influences the direction it transmits force. The optimal position is one in which the blade’s greatest surface area is oriented to propel the kayak in the direction of travel. For high-angle paddles designed to be used vertically, the optimal position is vertical and perpendicular to the length of the kayak. Getting the paddle into this position and maintaining that optimum alignment for a longer duration through the power transmission phase is the focus of much skill development.

In analyzing paddle position and movement, we look at the paddle position and how it changes from two views: from the side (sagittal or Cartesian coordinate x-y plane) and from the front or behind (frontal or Cartesian coordinate y-z plane). From a side view, the paddle position in the water can be divided into three general angles: positive, vertical, and negative.

The positive angle is when the tip of the blade is in front of the top hand. In the positive angle, the blade slightly pushes down on the water and moves the kayak forward. Many kayak paddle blades are curved so that at the catch, the blade is aligned in a more vertical position while the paddle is at a positive angle.

Fig. 4-7 Positive paddle position

The vertical angle is when the tip of the blade is directly below the top hand. The maximum paddle blade area is oriented in the direction of travel and there is little downward pressure or upward lift, making this the most efficient and optimal angle.

The negative angle is when the tip of the blade is behind the top hand. In a negative angle, there is little forward propulsion, and the kayaker lifts water. As you can imagine, lifting water with each stroke requires a tremendous amount of cumulative work, is very fatiguing, and does little to propel the kayak. Additionally, when the paddle lifts water, the stern of the kayak is pulled deeper into the water, increasing drag and slowing the boat.

Forward stroke technique is optimal when it reduces the time the paddle is in a positive angle, maximizes the time the paddle is in a vertical angle, and minimizes the time the paddle is in a negative angle. To maintain a positive or vertical angle for a longer duration through the power transmission phase, hold the top hand in a position about 16 inches (40 centimeters) in front of your forehead. Hold this position throughout the power transmission phase until the exit. If you push forward with or drop your top hand prior to exiting, the paddle orientation becomes prematurely negative—you drag the paddle, lift water, and pull the kayak stern deeper. All these technical inefficiencies decrease the boat’s glide, shorten travel per stroke, and increase a paddler’s work.

With practice, kayakers learn to feel when they have solid power on the paddle and when, during the stroke cycle, the paddle moves into a position that’s not powerful—usually as the paddle orientation moves from vertical to negative. As the power declines, it’s more efficient to end that stroke and go on to the next.

POWER GENERATION

If you generate more power per paddle stroke, your boat will move farther, letting you travel farther in a day, enjoy a wider variety of paddling excursions, and visit new and exciting destinations. Generating greater power revolves around five main concepts: torque (affected in kayaking by the height of the paddler’s top hand), increasing force, velocity of movement, preactivating muscles, and the direction that force is applied.

TORQUE: HEIGHT OF THE TOP HAND

All powerful human movement is related to torque. Torque is power generated through an arc around a center pivot, or fulcrum point. We are jointed (hinged) creatures. As we turn and twist many parts of our bodies, we move in arcs. Torque measures the effectiveness of human power.

The basic formula is: Torque equals force times the length of the radius of the moment arm (represented by the distance between the top hand and the blade’s center of mass in the water, as viewed from the side, or as those points fall on the sagittal plane); T = f × r. In kayaking, the radius, or length of the moment arm varies, depending on the height of the paddler’s top (offside) hand above the water. The longer the moment arm (the higher the position of the top hand above the water during the paddle stroke), the greater the torque, given the same applied force—one of the key reasons a vertical paddling style is so much more efficient than a horizontal paddling style.

We can generate greater torque simply by lengthening the moment arm. In other words, raising the paddle into a more vertical position while applying the same force makes a paddler move farther. If the paddling effort remains the same, a longer moment arm (the higher the top hand is positioned above the water) generates more torque, resulting in greater propulsive force and thus, the kayak travels farther with each stroke.

Fig. 4-8 a. High-angle moment arm; b. Low-angle moment arm

Figure 4-8, based upon biomechanical analysis software, uses circular tracing to represent a paddler’s left wrist moving through two stroke cycles. The moment arm (designated “r”) is clearly longer in the high-angle technique than in the low-angle approach during the power transmission phase. When the same effort is applied, the high-angle position generates greater torque than the low-angle position, resulting in greater boat travel per stroke—it’s simple physics.

VELOCITY OF MOVEMENT

Another critical aspect of generating power is velocity of movement. The basic formula for power is: Power equals force times velocity; P = f × v. If all other things are the same, greater velocity of movement generates more power. In other words, pulling on the paddle quickly during the power transmission phase (while the paddle is in the water) generates more power, and makes the boat travel farther per paddle stroke.

Further, the basic formula for force is: Force equals mass times acceleration (the change in velocity); F = m × a. In other words, by pulling on the paddle and trying to increase velocity during the power transmission phase, the paddler exerts greater force, therefore increasing power and traveling farther per paddle stroke.

Power generation’s critical components are velocity and acceleration during the power transmission phase. It is possible to slow the stroke rate (the number of strokes taken per minute) and at the same time increase the total power generated (and, therefore, boat travel) by moving quickly and dynamically during the power transmission phase. You can also glide farther during the recovery phase. The key is to move the paddle quickly through the water and slowly in the air.

PREACTIVATING YOUR MUSCLES

How we activate our skeletal muscles, those muscles that act on bone to cause movement, is a critical component of determining power generation. Skeletal muscles consist of bundles of fibers, and each muscle fiber is composed of a series of long, linearly aligned strands of protein molecules (actin and myosin contractile units) that bond, shorten (resulting in increased overlapping and muscle shortening), release, bond again, overlap farther, release, and bond again in a repeating cycle to shorten (concentrically contract) the muscle. These contractile units activate in alternating patterns—while some are releasing, others are activating so the muscle can progressively shorten.

Each muscle fiber is activated by the nervous system through motor units, the terminal end of the nerve fiber, which controls a small group of muscle fibers. The number of motor units connected to a muscle fiber depends on the level of dexterity required. Eyes and fingers have the greatest concentration of motor units (fewer muscle fibers per motor unit); hamstrings and gluteal muscles have the lowest concentration. Electrical signals are transmitted through the nervous system to activate these motor units. Once the magnitude of the electrical signal reaches a threshold, the entire motor unit is activated—it’s either all on or all off.

Muscle fibers are organized into linear bundles and surrounded by connective tissue (fascia). Connective tissue is loose and relaxed when the muscle is lengthened. Like fascia, the tendons that connect each end of a muscle bundle to bone are also slack when the muscle is in its lengthened state. When the muscle is activated and begins shortening (concentrically contracting), the fascia and tendon connective tissue tightens before the muscle’s shortening can act on the bone.

When skeletal muscle shortens, it acts on bone—it moves the bone. So to flex an elbow, which reduces the elbow angle, you activate your biceps brachii muscle to concentrically contract, or shorten. The biceps brachii is attached below the elbow on the forearm and at the shoulder, so shortening the muscle causes bending (flexion) at the elbow. The opposing muscles on the back of the arm may act to stabilize the joint during this movement, but mainly they are inactive.

This is how humans move: by shortening muscles on the side of the joint where the angle is reduced, while opposing muscle on the other side is mostly inactive. We learn to move our muscles through trial and error. We think of what we want to do and then try moving in different ways until we move the way we want. After we have successfully done this a few times, the pattern becomes automatic—like learning to paddle a kayak or play a musical instrument.

In kayaking, we can use muscle contraction to generate greater power through three primary means: paddling with greater force, increasing the velocity of our contraction, and preactivating our muscles. The first occurs when we simply paddle harder and exert greater effort—we try harder. For the second we must increase the velocity of movement during the power generation phase (as described above), where velocity is a key component of the power equation. Additionally, with higher velocity movement, we transmit a stronger neurological signal to the muscle, thereby activating more motor units within it.

This phenomenon has tremendous implications in daily living activities. As we age, we generally become more cautious and move more slowly and purposefully, which reduces the number of motor units we regularly activate, thereby weakening those muscles. As we become weaker, we slow down farther in a downward spiral that leads to slow shuffling instead of dynamic striding. By maintaining our velocity of movement, and regularly activating more motor units, we help maintain our strength and our ability to move dynamically.

The third way we can generate greater power is by using the stretch-shortening cycle of muscle contraction. Several studies have shown that when we preactivate a muscle group by tensing it slightly before the power transmission phase begins, the muscle group acts on the bone more immediately and reacts with a more forceful contraction. Preactivation pulls the slack out of the connective tissue (fascia and tendon). Because the slack is removed, the resistance at the beginning of a kayaking stroke pulls directly on the muscle, and tries to lengthen it. Muscle resistance to lengthening (eccentric activation) causes a larger portion of the muscle to activate and more powerfully and concentrically contract.

In kayaking, we can generate higher levels of force, without actively pulling harder on the paddle during the power transmission phase, by preactivating muscle before the catch, by slightly tensing the muscles of the legs, torso, shoulders, and arms. This preactivation, which is also known as firming, is similar to loading a spring, which we then release during the power transmission phase.

DIRECTION OF FORCE

As explained above, power is the product of force times velocity, and force is the product of mass times acceleration. The basic formula of the resultant relationship is: Power equals mass times acceleration times velocity; P = (m × a) × v. The section above describes velocity and acceleration; here let’s focus on mass.

Kayakers have a tremendous opportunity to increase the mass that they apply to propel the boat. Although most kayakers quickly come to understand the concept of pulling the boat past the paddle blade in the water (an application of horizontal direction of force), they often ignore the vertical component of force, or the force directed down the length of the paddle shaft. Applying a vertical direction of force loads the paddler’s body weight onto the paddle and increases the mass (and thus, the total force) used to propel the kayak past the paddle blade in the water. The vertical direction of force requires a high-angle paddle position, because the more vertical the paddle, the more readily the kayaker can apply a vertical direction of force.

The vertical direction of force is analogous to pole vaulting: The vaulter holds the pole horizontally, sprints down the runway, plants one end of the pole in a trap, and lifts himself vertically into the air with the other end of the pole. Kayakers can apply this same direction of force at the catch, fully engaging their abdominal muscles and lightening the pressure on their seat. They hold this load through the entire power application phase, and release it at the exit, a technique sometimes referred to as the “flying bum.”

The primary force for body weight loading comes from the pressure a paddler applies down the shaft with his top hand, and somewhat by his bottom (onside) hand as well. The onside hand primarily pulls, combined with some downward pressure, so the paddle remains in its optimal position with the neck (where the blade meets the shaft) of the blade at the surface. A great way to get the feel of this technique is to sit in your kayak, place the blade in the water at the position of the catch, and have a buddy hold the underwater tip of the paddle. Then press the paddle straight into your friend’s hand without pulling with your onside hand. You should feel power in your top shoulder and feel your abdominal muscles engage.

FINE-TUNING YOUR FORWARD STROKE

Technical efficiency involves, not only the movement pattern, but the timing of the movement as well. In kayaking, setting up to take a dynamic stroke activates a greater portion of muscle and can generate greater power. Making a dynamic catch and pulling quickly to move the kayak past the paddle in the water makes the boat travel farther per stroke. A quick exit reduces drag and gives the kayak a chance to glide. All these movements contribute to a kayaking rhythm that is very similar to a waltz—three-quarter time in music.

Start and finish each stroke with both hands near shoulder height. The downbeat or “one” beat is the catch, load, and pull—the entire power application phase. The second beat is the exit. The third beat is the glide. Following this rhythm helps kayakers to properly set up each stroke, align their body in the optimum position during each phase of the stroke, allow glide, and maximize the distance they travel per stroke.

END OF RECOVERY PHASE

At the end of the recovery phase, the kayaker prepares for the next stroke. At this moment in the stroke, he is fully counterrotated, with his onside hip, torso, and shoulder forward and his offside hip, torso, and shoulder pulled back. He extends his onside hand fully forward, and keeps his offside hand near the side of his head, with his elbow flexed slightly more than 90 degrees. This position is similar to that of an archer preparing to shoot an arrow. The kayaker is relaxed, with the boat nearing the end of its effective glide.

Fig. 4-9 End of the recovery phase (Photo by Steve Jones)

Fig. 4-10 The setup (Photo by Steve Jones)

SETUP

To set up for the next stroke, the kayaker stretches his onside hip, torso, and shoulder a little farther forward and his offside hip, shoulder, and torso back a small amount to further increase counterrotation and preactivate his muscles. The paddle is nearly horizontal at shoulder height with one blade in front of the other.

POWER TRANSMISSION PHASE

Power in cyclical endurance activities is often measured as a curve drawn on a Cartesian coordinate; in kayaking, the power of one paddle stroke is represented as the area under the curve. The x-axis represents time; the y-axis represents force. All force curves have a relatively steep slope as the blade goes into the water and the paddler applies power. Force peaks toward the end of the catch because of the optimum body position at that time, the impulsive nature of muscle activation, and the speed of the kayak at that moment. We all have a force curve with a similar shape—higher at the catch and tailing off throughout the stroke. At the end of the stroke, if the force curve traces below the x-axis, which represents negative force or paddle drag, that area is subtracted from the positive area.

Throughout the entire stroke cycle, from the power transmission phase through recovery, the kayaker maintains the same vertical seated position. Sitting up tall keeps the kayaker in a position that allows freer rotation and greater force transfer. Hunching over or flexing the spine forward may provide a false sense of force generation, but it reduces a kayaker’s ability to maintain power and maximize distance traveled per stroke. Keep the chest up, keep the chin level and not pressed into the chest, and elongate the spine by sitting up tall; these all help you generate greater power.

Fig. 4-11 Force curve illustrating the amount of force generated by the paddle stroke throughout the stroke.

Reach forward strictly by rotating the torso and extending your onside arm. Any bending (flexing) and straightening (extending) at the waist places the kayaker in a less advantageous position to generate power and causes the kayak to porpoise up and down in the bow, resulting in increased drag and a shorter distance traveled per stroke.

Catch

The goal of the catch is to get the blade into the water as far forward and as quickly as possible. Starting the stroke with the blade forward in a positive angle increases the distance a paddler can hold the paddle in a positive or vertical angle. Getting the blade into the water quickly reduces the breaking forces on the front of the blade and increases the kayaker’s ability to load body weight onto the paddle sooner. The anchor point of the stroke is when the blade is fully immersed. From here, the kayaker pulls the boat forward and past this anchor point. It’s analogous to sitting on a skateboard, grabbing the ground, and pulling forward.

Fig. 4-12 The catch (Photo by Steve Jones)

To load body weight onto the paddle, you must have a solid grip on the paddle with both hands. The time to relax the hands on the paddle and allow the arm muscles to recover is during the recovery phase. During the power transmission phase, the kayaker must firmly grip the paddle to effectively transfer force. Holding the paddle lightly limits the amount of force that a paddler can apply.

The catch is essentially an arm action. From the setup position, the goal is to drop or drive the onside hand straight down so that the blade goes into the water as quickly as possible. The blade often enters the water right next to the kayak by the footrest. The top hand moves from the side of the paddler’s head to a position in front of his forehead, where he can load body weight onto the paddle. The blade enters the water at a slightly positive angle. The onside hand guides or leads the paddle through the water, while the top hand provides most of the load.

During the catch, it’s very important to keep your shoulders, torso, and hips fully rotated. Stay rotated until the blade is fully buried in the water and you can load your body weight onto the paddle. Otherwise, you significantly shorten the power transmission phase and boat travel per stroke. Save your rotation!

Load and Rotation

Almost simultaneously with the catch, but not before the blade is fully immersed, the kayaker loads his body weight onto the paddle. Body weight loading (shifting body weight from the boat and onto the paddle to move the boat and body past the relatively fixed point in the water) increases the mass used to generate power and more fully engages the kayaker’s abdominal muscles.

To load your body weight, press down the length of the shaft with your top and bottom hands, while pulling with your onside shoulder. It’s critical to keep your top hand about 16 inches (40 centimeters) in front of your forehead to maintain the vertical orientation of the paddle for as long as possible. Your top elbow will be slightly below top shoulder height, and your top hand will be in front of your forehead.

Fig. 4-13 Load (Photo by Steve Jones)

Once your body weight is loaded, the forces are in place to propel the kayak forward. The rotational power (torque) comes initially from pressing on your onside footrest, driving your hip back with the onside leg, then continuing to rotate your torso and finishing by rotating your shoulders. Flex or extend your arms as little as you can during the power transmission phase, with little push or pull, and instead think of them as linking your paddle and body. Your onside or pulling arm remains relatively straight to connect your onside pulling shoulder with the paddle held in your bottom hand.

Your top hand does not push forward or across the kayak. The push forward comes from your offside shoulder, with your offside arm maintaining essentially the same shape until the exit. Pushing across the kayak reduces your ability to load body weight on the paddle. Keep your top hand in front of your forehead to maximize loading until the exit.

While loading, you will feel your abdominal muscles activate. Since all forces in kayaking are transmitted through the paddler’s core, increased abdominal activation is a good indicator of increased body weight loading. Engaging abdominal muscles involves larger muscles, which possess greater strength and endurance, to propel the kayak forward. Abdominal muscles are centrally involved in both body weight loading and torso rotation during the power transmission phase of the kayak stroke.

Fig. 4-14 Torso rotation

Fig. 4-15 The mid-power transmission phase

Maintain the load throughout the entire power transmission phase. Keep a strong grip on the paddle, keep your top hand in front of your forehead, without extending your top hand forward or letting it drop, and feel the abdominal activation throughout the power transmission phase. You may benefit from letting the paddle move away from the side of the kayak a bit during the power transmission phase. This technique allows you to better maintain the load with your top hand, transmit pulling force with your bottom hand by keeping your bottom arm straighter, and make it easier to exit. Keep the blade square, or perpendicular to the length of the kayak, so that forces that turn the boat away from the paddling side are minimized.

Later in the power transmission phase, the force curve tails off until it reaches zero at the exit. While the greatest opportunity to generate power and therefore kayak acceleration is at the catch, you can still generate power afterward, though your ability to do so diminishes. If you are trying to maximize boat travel per stroke, focus on having a dynamic and forceful catch and on maintaining the load throughout the power transmission phase. Force can be negative if you drag the paddle, particularly at the end of the stroke.

To recap, the power transmission phase begins with the catch: the act of driving the paddle blade quickly into the water. An effective catch reduces the braking forces and maximizes your ability to load body weight onto the paddle. Once your body weight is loaded, begin with the leg drive that rotates your hips, and then your torso and shoulders, which maximize propulsive forces. As your ability to maintain load on the paddle wanes toward the end of the stroke, it’s time to exit.

RECOVERY PHASE

Following the power transmission phase, the recovery phase begins with the exit, the act of taking the paddle out of the water. The recovery phase finishes with the glide and setting up for the next paddle stroke.

Exit

As the paddle moves into a negative angle, usually when your onside hand approaches your onside hip, it’s time to exit. The two goals at the exit are to minimize drag as you remove the paddle from the water and to start to set up for the next stroke. In the pursuit of more efficient technique, we paddle in a manner that maximizes propulsive forces and minimizes those that slow the kayak. The exit is all about minimizing drag.

To minimize drag, lift the paddle quickly and smoothly out of the water, immediately lifting your onside elbow and hand up to shoulder height. Think about keeping your forearm parallel to the water. It may help to think of the forearm as a tie rod between a locomotive’s driving wheels. The tie rod stays up during the recovery phase of locomotion and moves down during the power transmission phase, always staying horizontal and parallel to the tracks. Similarly, your forearm is up at about shoulder height when it’s offside and down close to the water when it’s onside, always remaining nearly horizontal and parallel to the water.

As you take the paddle from the water, you continue to rotate into position for the next stroke, also known as counter-rotation, or rotation against the direction of travel. While you raise your pulling hand to shoulder height, keep your top hand up and extended forward. The kayak paddle will be nearly horizontal near shoulder level, with you positioned like an archer preparing to shoot an arrow.

A common mistake many kayakers make at the exit is to lift their hand and not their elbow, so their forearm has a vertical, rather than a horizontal, orientation. This movement causes the blade to exit more slowly, increasing drag. It also misaligns their top arm for the next stroke. To load body weight, keep your top forearm (both elbow and hand) up and nearly horizontal—elbow just below shoulder height and hand slightly above it.

Another common mistake is to prematurely drop your top hand to catch for the next stroke during the exit, so that the paddle is never in horizontal at shoulder height. Here, your onside hands drops while your offside hand is still exiting from the previous stroke—one hand is going down while the other is going up. To generate force at the catch, the direction of force for both hands must be down the length of the shaft. Dropping your onside hand prematurely also eliminates the time you need to counterrotate, let the kayak glide, preactivate your muscles, and set up for the next stroke. Keep your top hand up and extended forward.

As you exit and lift the paddle up to shoulder height, you can relax your hands and forearms, an important component of effective and dynamic muscle activation. Relaxing the muscles allows them to deactivate, lengthen, and return to an advantageous length for the next power transmission phase. During each part of the stroke, you can relax some area of the body. Keep in mind, though, that not everything needs to be relaxed at the same phase during the stroke cycle.

Glide

Once the paddle is out of the water, it’s time to let the kayak glide. Every kayak has some capacity to glide (see chapter 2). To maximize your travel per stroke, take full advantage of your kayak’s capacity to glide.

When you take a stroke, the kayak accelerates forward and the bow raises. All boats that are propelled in a cyclical manner with a power transmission phase and a recovery phase—canoes, kayaks, rowboats—exhibit bow lift when the boat is accelerated. Glide and bow lift are related; the kayak glides while the bow is in an elevated position.

To maximize glide, let the kayak travel until the bow starts to drop or settle, then take the next stroke. Taking the next stroke before full glide is finished increases stroke rate without necessarily increasing the distance you travel per stroke. Waiting until after the bow has dropped to take the next stroke means that the kayak has excessively decelerated; you will need to generate more energy to get back to the previous speed. Learning to feel how the kayak drives up, glides, and settles is important for developing advanced skills, understanding how kayaks perform, and maximizing your efficiency and boat travel per stroke.

USING STROKES TO MANEUVER

When you paddle in wind or currents, the elements act on your kayak in many ways. Often a combination of conditions offers unique opportunities to maneuver or direct your boat. Most of the time, these elements will affect one end of your kayak more than the other. The end that is less mobile is the locked-in end, while the other end is the free end. Locked in and free are relative terms; no end is ever completely locked in or free. In most situations, one end is more locked in, while the other is more free.

Generally you take maneuvering strokes at the free end. For example, if you’re paddling forward out of an eddy into current, the bow will be free in the current and the stern locked in the eddy. In this situation, your ability to maneuver the kayak will be greater if you take steering strokes toward the bow. In contrast, when paddling at a side angle to the wind, the bow will be more locked in and the stern will tend to blow away (weathercock) from the wind. Here, steering strokes are more effective near the stern.

Maneuvering strokes beyond the basics introduced in chapter 1 will help you develop your skills and venture into more challenging conditions. As you kayak in current and wind, different conditions affect your kayak in different ways (discussed in greater detail in chapter 5). For now focus on the strokes themselves in preparation for dealing with current and wind.

CONTROL THE BLADE ANGLE

Remember that you can transfer force more effectively if you have a solid grip on the paddle when you are applying power. As you begin to maneuver in a variety of conditions, where fine adjustments of the blade angle are critical, maintain a solid grip with both hands. Generally, when you control your paddle’s blade angle, your onside hand primarily controls the direction and angle, while your top hand maintains your body weight load.

RUDDER WITH YOUR PADDLE

You can maneuver in variable conditions with a rudder stroke. Position your paddle in the water, at either the bow or the stern, so that it acts like a rudder, whichever is more free.

For rudder strokes to be effective the kayak must be moving, either forward or backward. Place the blade in the water vertically so that it looks like a rudder. Change the angle of the blade to the water, so the moving water pushes on one side of the blade to a greater degree than the other side, to change the kayak’s direction. During a rudder stroke, you can adjust the blade angle to increase or decrease the turning effect. Make adjustments either by changing the angle of the paddle relative to the kayak, or by changing the pitch of the blade relative to the water moving against the blade.

Fig. 4-16 The rudder stroke

You can also position your top hand high or low, depending on how much you want to load your body weight on the paddle, how far away from the side of the kayak you want the paddle, and what the kayak’s velocity is relative to the water. With your top hand at forehead height, you can load more effectively. With your top hand lower, you can move the blade through a greater range, particularly away from the side of the kayak, and have a stronger turning effect.

For example, if the kayak is moving forward and the bow is locked in, you can use a stern rudder to turn the kayak. To turn left, place the blade in the water near the stern, in a vertical orientation so that it points away from the stern between 10 and 30 degrees from the centerline. The greater the angle, the more the kayak will turn (and slow). The water on the outside of the blade will exert greater force on the blade and push on the blade to the right. If you hold the paddle in that position, that force will transfer through your body and cause the stern of the kayak to move away from the paddle, turning the kayak to the right.

You can also rudder the kayak at the bow. For example, if you’re turning right from an eddy into current, the stern will be more locked in and the bow more mobile. You can place the blade into the water in the rudder position near the bow. Here the current will act on the current side of the blade, pulling the blade away from the kayak and to the right. Holding the paddle in this position will pull the bow to the right, helping you turn.

Remember that ruddering is a dragging stroke, so the kayak will slow while the blade is in the water. If you want to keep the kayak moving forward, use a sweep stroke or combine a propulsive stroke with ruddering to propel the boat.

Fig. 4-17 The stern rudder stroke

SIDE SLIP

A variation on bow ruddering is side slipping, where instead of turning the kayak, you simply move it sideways, parallel to your direction of travel. You can side slip with the kayak flat and level. When the kayak is placed on edge, however, its ends are out of the water, which reduces its resistance to sideways movement, making it easier to side slip.

Side slipping is useful when you want to approach an object or avoid an obstacle without turning your kayak and changing direction. Examples are when you are surprised by an obstacle in the water and want to move sideways without changing your direction or you want to move closer to another boat, dock, or beach without turning. Side slipping is also a great way to learn fine paddle control.

Fig. 4-18 The bow rudder stroke

All kayaks have a pivot point around which the kayak is more likely to turn. To side slip, hold the paddle blade in the water so that the resistance to turn in one direction is balanced with the resistance to turn in the other direction. To side slip, you must be moving forward. Put the kayak on edge and then use your paddle to rudder toward the bow to move the kayak sideways and forward. It takes some practice to find the exact position of turning balance and blade angle in the water that will move the kayak sideways without causing it to turn.

USING DESIGN CHARACTERISTICS TO MANEUVER

Most kayaks have some capacity to be maneuvered simply by changing your body position within the boat—leaning forward or backward, as well as edging it. You remain stable in your kayak by maintaining your body’s center of mass over the kayak’s center of buoyancy.

LEAN FORWARD

When you paddle and lean forward, shifting your center of mass toward the bow and away from the stern, the bow is pushed deeper and the stern rises. This action locks the bow in more securely and allows the stern to be more mobile and slide to the side, creating a tighter turn.

LEAN BACKWARD

Conversely, if you lean back, you lock in the stern to a greater degree, reducing its tendency to slide to the side and turn. This technique is very helpful when you are on the face of a swell or wave, where the stern tends to slide to the side.

EDGE

Turning your kayak by placing it on edge is called edging, or edge turning. The edge of your kayak is the curve of the cross section, from the side of the boat to its bottom. Kayaks can be designed with an edge (or chine) that’s gentle, allowing an incremental positioning on edge, or a very hard and angular edge that requires you to position your body’s center of mass right on top of the edge (chine). Hard-chine boats can edge turn very quickly; your body’s center of mass must be right on top of the chine. Soft-chine kayaks can be edged to a wide variety of degrees, because the chine has a greater radius and turning can happen anywhere along the radius of the chine. However, a soft-chine kayak will not edge turn nearly as quickly as a hard-chine kayak.

To edge turn a kayak, first it must be moving forward. Raise the side you want to turn toward by lifting on your thigh on the thigh brace. Press down on your offside hip to tilt the kayak on edge. Maintain your center of mass over the kayak’s center of buoyancy. A couple of sweep strokes on the offside will help initiate the turn. Maintain the edge position until you have completed your desired turn. You may wish to stop the turn with a sweep on the former high side.

Fig. 4-19 Use edging to turn.

COMBINING BOAT HANDLING AND PADDLING STROKES

Rarely do you just edge turn or sweep or rudder to maneuver your kayak. Instead, you have an array of skills upon which you can draw to move the kayak where you wish to go. Learning the basic strokes is important, and just as important is practicing them until you can perform the correct strokes, combined with boat position, to move in the direction you wish. With a solid foundation of skills, and lots of practice in a variety of conditions, these skills will become automatic.

BRACE

A kayak capsizes when your body’s center of mass moves away from the kayak’s center of flotation for a sufficient duration. Bracing is using your paddle and body position to right the kayak before it turns completely over. Most experienced kayakers can brace and recover with the kayak nearly completely capsized. It’s also important to develop dynamic stability instead of relying too much on the brace.

Braces are either high or low, depending on the paddle’s position in relation to your elbows. The high brace positions the paddle above the elbows; the low brace positions the paddle below the elbows. The choice of a high or low brace is entirely reactive, depending on the paddle position when you need to brace. If your hands are relatively high, use a high brace; if your hands are low, use a low brace. In a brace, either high or low, press the paddle blade down onto the surface to provide a momentary pause until you can pull your hips back between your body’s center of mass and the kayak’s center of flotation.

Fig. 4-20 The high brace

Fig. 4-21 The low brace

Calm waters and good friends

CHAPTER 5

Water and Air

As your skills develop and you want to venture into a wider variety of conditions, you will want to learn to paddle in wind and varying water conditions. While this chapter offers a solid foundation on the theory and concepts of paddling in wind and water, it is not a substitute for expert instruction to demonstrate these skills and evaluate your skill development. Instructors can also assess conditions and gauge their appropriateness for your skill level, which provides increased safety.

CHARACTERISTICS OF WATER AND AIR

Air and water are analyzed in a very similar way, because they are both considered fluids, particularly in the way they flow around objects. Fluids flow around an object in undisrupted parallel (laminar) layers. When a fluid can no longer follow an object’s contour, the result is turbulent flow. Momentum tends to carry the fluids past the region of change (from laminar to turbulent flow), which results in a low-pressure region that the fluids try to backfill, resulting in a vortex, or eddy. This turbulence results in drag.

FLUIDS AND STATIONARY OBJECTS

When a moving fluid strikes a fixed object—for example, if a water current moves around a rock—the boundary layer of water closest to the rock has greater drag and moves more slowly. Layers of water progressively farther away from the rock encounter less and less drag and move more quickly. Once the water current passes the rock, momentum carries the water beyond it. This movement forms a low-pressure region immediately behind the rock that the water seeks to backfill—a vortex, more commonly called an eddy. The eddy is strongest closest to the rock and progressively weaker farther away from the rock. Similarly, local terrain alters wind patterns as the wind pushes around mountains and accelerates through valleys.

FLUIDS AND MOVABLE OBJECTS

When an object, such as a kayak, moves through fluids, fluids act on that object in a variety of ways.

Bow and stern wakes

As a kayak moves through water or wind, its bow pushes the water underneath and to each side. As a result of this energy differential, a bow wake, which radiates away from the kayak in all directions, forms. Fluids travel down the kayak’s surface in smooth and layered laminar flow until they reach the stern. Momentum carries the fluids past the stern, creating a low-pressure vortex behind the boat. This pressure differential aft of the kayak, with water seeking to return and fill in aft of the stern, causes a stern wake, resulting in parallel waves perpendicular to the direction of kayak travel.

Locked in or Free

Because the front of the kayak breaks through the water, the area of greatest resistance is at the bow. The stern moves through an area of laminar flow, which presents less resistance. As a result, the stern of any boat tends to swing to the side. Kayakers often refer to this condition as the bow being locked in and the stern free. To counteract this tendency, design elements, such as tapered vertical ends, skegs, and rudders, are located at or near the stern. When the bow is locked in and the stern is freer to move, paddlers can steer more readily by taking strokes closer to the stern.

WATER AND AIR MOVEMENT

One of the greatest skills a kayaker can develop is the ability to observe the water and air, and understand how and why they are moving, and then predict how the kayak will behave in the conditions. This section briefly discusses how water and air move across the landscape. Awareness of wind and water conditions is fundamental to safe and enjoyable kayak touring. Paddlers must recognize how water and air move, what they look like under various conditions, and how they will affect kayaking.

HOW WATER MOVES

Water holds amazing force to carve the landscape. It moves around rock and breaks down and carries away softer material, forming channels. What we see above the water’s surface is often mimicked below, out of sight.

Because of this uneven underwater landscape, water constantly changes depth. Underwater, rocks and boulders pile up; softer material is removed and washed way, exposing rock shelves and ledges. These changing contours in turn act on the water, changing its movement pattern.

When moving water encounters a stationary obstacle, the obstacle restricts the water’s flow and backs it up. As the water backs up, it deepens and increases stored energy. It then increases velocity and flows around the obstacle, releasing energy. As the water passes an obstacle and moves into a shallower region, it tends to fall to the bottom of the channel. The energy carried with the water as it falls reflects from the bottom and then to the surface to form waves. In a fixed position, these waves are often called standing waves, which indicate deeper water mostly free of obstacles.

Fig. 5-1 Standing waves.

Water generally moves in straight lines until it hits an obstruction, and then it is turned or deflected to another direction. Water on the outside of a turn generally moves at a higher velocity than water on the inside of the turn, because water flows straight to the outside of the turn. Due to its greater energy, the outside of a turn generally has greater depth. Inside turns are often characterized by lower energy, shallower water, and relatively large eddies. Kayakers should learn to recognize changes in water depth and velocity, as well as current directional differentials and eddy lines.

HOW AIR MOVES

Winds result from global, regional, and local forces of atmospheric heating and cooling. Global atmospheric circulation, resulting from different rates of global heating between the poles and the equator, causes global winds such as trade winds, midlatitude westerlies, and the jet stream. The earth’s rotation results in changing regions of high and low pressure and causes warm air to rise in a cyclical pattern.

Additionally, sea breezes and land breezes result from different rates of warming between land and sea: Land heats and cools much more quickly than water. In the morning, as the sun shines on both land and water, the land heats up much more quickly. As the warm air over the land rises, creating a local area of low pressure, the cooler air over the sea is drawn horizontally to the land in an effort to equalize pressures. In the evening as the sun sets, the air above the sea cools much more slowly than the land, so the falling cool air over the land pushes horizontally toward the sea. Squalls are sudden short-term increases in wind velocity often associated with precipitation.

Fig. 5-2 a. Wind blows inland from the ocean in the morning; b. Cool air blows from land to ocean in the evening.

WEATHER

STEVE JONES

Steve Jones is the head sea kayak instructor at Cascade Canoe and Kayak Centers; he has been coaching in paddle sports for 10 years. He holds coaching certifications with the BCU and ACA on the recreational side of the sport, and USA Canoe/Kayak certifications on the competitive side. After serving 10 years in the US Navy he went back to school and completed a degree in meteorology studying that magical place where the sea meets the sky. During that time he became more involved in the competitive aspects of kayaking and now spends a great deal of time studying how the efficiencies exploited in competition can be taken advantage of by the recreational paddler.

Sea kayakers must understand the weather and learn how to read it. Knowing the larger weather picture prior to getting on the water can give you an idea of what to expect throughout your trip. Marine weather forecasts begin with a synopsis describing the larger picture. When these storms approach land, they can change direction and speed, causing a frontal system that may approach your location sooner or later than expected. Learning to read the sky and associate that with the given forecast can greatly assist your decision making during your trip.

Circulation around a low-pressure system leads to a collision between air masses of different densities. These air masses that originated in very different parts of the globe interact in an attempt to equalize their densities, thereby becoming unstable. The boundary between the two air masses is a front.

Warm Front

When warm, moist air brought northward from the equator ahead of a low-pressure system replaces a colder air mass, the leading edge of the warm air is known as a warm front. It is characterized by strati-form cloud formation starting with very high-level cirrus clouds and progressing toward low-level stratus or nimbostratus clouds associated with precipitation (rain, snow, or sleet). Temperatures start cool or cold and become warmer as the front passes. Winds are generally south-southeast and shift to south-southwest.

Cold Front

Cold, dry air drawn south in a low-pressure system replacing the warm, moist air that was brought north ahead of the low-pressure forms a cold front. Moving much faster than the warm front, a cold front is associated with a rapid decrease in temperature. It is not uncommon to see temperatures drop 10 to 15 degrees or more in the first hour. Cumulonimbus clouds form along this narrow boundary between air masses, often resulting in heavy precipitation and the formation of thunderstorms and squall lines. Gusty winds change direction dramatically across this front from south-southwest to west-northwest. Behind the cold front the air, while colder, is much drier and more stable, leading to clearing in the sky.

Occluded Front

As a storm associated with a low-pressure system matures, the cold front closes in on the warm front. This rapidly moving cold air mass overtakes the warm front and forms an occlusion. In this instance, the new mass of cold air replaces an older mass of cold air. Temperatures typically drop across this type of front as well, but not as dramatically as for the cold front. Clouds at the front are often nimbostratus, but occasionally cumulonimbus. Precipitation can vary from light to heavy and continuous, with a wind shift as the front passes from south-southeast to west-northwest. Colder, more stable air is in place after the front passes.

Wind is measured in the direction from which it blows, as well as its strength in miles per hour, nautical miles per hour, and meters per second. Wind creates distinct patterns as it moves across the water. When wind moves into an area of relative calm, the leading edge of the wind forms a clear pattern of roughness on the water. Kayakers can see this pattern and then judge if the rough area offers safe paddling conditions or if they should avoid it. Winds that blow across vast stretches of open ocean cause long, relatively flat swells, while more local winds create shorter, steeper waves.

Clouds

Cloud patterns also help kayakers determine paddling conditions, not only what to currently expect, but what to predict as well. As warm air rises, it carries moisture to higher altitudes. As that air cools, the moisture condenses into clouds of water vapor at lower altitudes and ice crystals at higher altitudes. Fog is a vapor cloud near the earth’s surface. Clouds can be divided into two broad categories based on their altitude: low or high.

High-altitude clouds include cirrus, cirrocumulus, and cirrostratus. Cirrus clouds, which look like broad, sweeping white streaks across the sky, are formed by high-level ice crystals, are often called mare’s tails, and indicate a coming weather change. Cirrocumulus clouds, which look like puffy white waves moving across the sky, precede cold or unstable warm air and often change to cirrus clouds. Cirrostratus clouds form white gauzy sheets often with sun-formed halos around their periphery. The latter are common the day before rain showers.

Fig. 5-3 Types of clouds a. cirrus; b. cirrocumulus; c. cirrostratus; d. stratocumulus; e. stratus; f. nimbostratus. (Photos © Shutterstock)

Low-level clouds include stratocumulus, stratus, and nimbostratus. Stratocumulus clouds form into gray rolls that indicate the approach of cold rain showers. Low, gray foglike clouds are classified as stratus, which indicate the approach of a warm front. In foggy conditions with low visibility, it’s recommended that kayaks simply stay onshore. Kayaks are difficult for other vessels to see under normal conditions; fog increases the chances of a collision. Also, maintaining your course in fog and being aware of your position are problematic. Last, rain streaks with wind and dark gray towers are nimbostratus clouds.

WIND

Because kayakers tend to paddle closer to shore and away from open and exposed waterways, they are affected by local conditions that constantly change as wind works its way around the shoreline. Wind variations can change how your kayak is locked in, so you must adjust your paddling accordingly. Kayakers rarely paddle directly into a headwind, perpendicular to the wind, or straight downwind but rather at some other angle. Even when kayakers cross from one body of land to another across open waterways, they constantly adjust their yaw, edging, and steering to remain on course—one of the most engaging aspects of kayak touring.

PADDLING IN A HEADWIND

When air moves toward a kayaker (a headwind), it slows forward progress. The paddler must exert greater effort to maintain the same speed. A headwind, or paddling into the wind, locks the stern in to a greater degree, reducing its tendency to slide to the side and making it easier to paddle straight. Since the stern is locked in and the bow is freer to move, maneuvering strokes at the bow have a greater effect. When you turn away from a headwind, the wind tends to catch the bow and push it around.

PADDLING IN A SIDE WIND

Side winds usually push the kayak sideways and downwind. Since the bow is more locked in when the kayak is moving forward, however, the stern blows downwind to a greater degree. This torque rotates around the center of mass of the kayak plus the paddler, usually about where the kayaker sits. Thus the stern blows away from the wind, while the bow turns toward it, an effect known as weathercocking.

If a paddler points the kayak straight at a target in a side wind, the boat blows downwind and the kayaker has to paddle into the wind more and more, resulting in a loop in the course (the path the kayak follows). To keep the kayak on the path toward the intended destination (to maintain a straight course) and to keep from blowing downwind, kayakers often turn their bow slightly into the wind and hold that position, inducing yaw, (yaw means “bending out of the course”). The direction the kayak points (its heading) and its intended course are different. The stronger the side wind, the greater the degree of yaw.

Fig. 5-4 Yaw motion

In a side wind, since the stern is freer to move than the bow, steering strokes toward the back of the kayak are more effective. Edging and sweep strokes, deploying the skeg, or ruddering (either with the kayak’s rudder or paddle) to reduce the stern’s tendency to blow downwind are common techniques to maintain a course across the wind.

PADDLING IN A TAILWIND

Winds that hit the kayaker from behind (tailwinds) reduce overall air resistance. Stronger tailwinds assist forward propulsion, thereby reducing the effort required to maintain the same speed. Since the bow usually locks in much more than the stern, a tailwind exacerbates the stern’s tendency to swing to the side. Since the stern is freer, steering strokes are much more effective at the stern.

WAVES

Kayakers who understand the forces that cause waves and the effect of local shore terrain can predict conditions and determine whether they have the appropriate skill to tackle an area. When you first venture into more challenging conditions, always seek instruction and paddle with more experienced, more competent kayakers who are knowledgeable about local conditions to have a safer and enjoyable experience.

Waves are described by height from trough to crest, by length from crest to crest, by period of time from crest to crest, and by direction. The more vertical front of a wave as it faces the shore is its face; its back is more gently sloping. The white foaming portion of a wave is its break; the area between the break and the building face is a wave’s curl or shoulder.

Fig. 5-5 Swells build to waves, then break as the ocean floor becomes more shallow.

Wind-generated waves result from wind blowing over open expanses of water surface. On the ocean, wind forms swells or ocean surface waves that move across vast distances. Wave formation is determined by wind speed, fetch (the distance wind blows over water), duration, and water depth; the greater the magnitude of each of these factors, the larger the wave. Waves are not a consistent height because of the constantly changing nature of and interaction of the factors that form them.

As waves approach the shoreline, the local terrain alters their shape and direction. As water approaches shore, it becomes shallower, and the wave energy encounters the land under it, which builds swell height. While the swell builds, the water’s energy along the bottom drags behind that at the top, causing the water mass at the top of the swell to move ahead of that at the bottom. The water mass at the top continues to move in front of the wave’s center of mass, and eventually the front of the wave breaks and falls within the region of breaking waves (surf zone). The water moves very little at the molecular level; rather, the energy of the wave moves through the water. As the wave’s energy dissipates and is further slowed by bottom drag, it ceases to break and simply runs (swashes) up the beach. Gravity then pulls the water back out, resulting in backwash.

Onshore and offshore winds affect waves further. As wind blows from land to sea (an offshore wind), it pushes back against the wave’s face, making it steeper and more vertical. Winds blowing from water toward shore (onshore winds) press down on the wave, making it shorter and flatter.

Waves are grouped by their breaking characteristics. Spilling waves build gradually and have a moderately steep break. Dumping waves come across deeper water and then suddenly move into shallow water, such as that found in an offshore shelf. They build quicker, are steeper, and break quicker and with greater force. Dumping waves also occur when a strong offshore wind holds back the top of the wave, delays the break, and increases its height as it gathers the wind energy. It then breaks quicker, from a greater height, and with greater force—it dumps. Found at the mouth of a river or stream, surging waves do not break because the water is very deep all the way in.

Fig. 5-6 Shore break

Wave action dominates kayaking in intertidal coastal regions. Coastal geology and wave conditions offer infinite paddling conditions and opportunities for exploration and adventure. The weather reporting that some kayakers listen to on handheld VHF marine radios describes waves by the average height of the tallest one-third waves over a period of time. So kayakers can expect a range of larger and smaller waves than those forecasted.

TIDES

Touring kayakers experience unlimited paddling and scenic conditions because of tides, the change in the sea’s height. Changing tides, with variations in tidal height of more than 20 feet (6 meters), result in continually changing scenery—a shoreline at low tide appears very different than it does at high tide.

Tides are the cyclical change, averaging nine hours in duration, of the ocean’s surface elevation. They result from three forces: the moon’s and the sun’s gravity acting on the earth, the earth’s rotation, and the volume of the ocean. Tide levels are further affected by wind and meteorological phenomenon, such as storm surges.

Tides rise and fall in either two cycles (two high and two low water levels) each day (a semidiurnal pattern) or one tidal cycle per day (a diurnal tide pattern). Semidiurnal patterns are most common. Because of inconsistent changes in the forces that affect tides, every day one semidiurnal tide is higher or lower and shorter or longer than the other—resulting in a high-high tide, a high tide, a low tide, and a low-low tide.

Fig. 5-7 Tidal height curve

SPRING AND NEAP TIDES

Tides also vary in two-week intervals. Spring tides (related to the word rise rather than the vernal season) occur with the new or full moon, when the sun, earth, and moon are aligned. The greater linear gravitation pull during this alignment gives spring tides more magnitude, with more dramatic changes in sea level height. The less dramatic neap tides occur when the moon is at a 90-degree angle to the line formed between the sun and the earth, with smaller variations in sea levels.

TIDAL ELEMENTS

At any given shoreline, the tidal changes occur within the intertidal zone, the region between the highest and lowest sea levels. As the seawater moves toward a landmass and the sea level rises, the tide is said to be in flood, or flooding more of the land for several hours. The high level is the highest point in the tidal cycle. The moment after the high level, when the sea prepares to move away from the land, is the slack. In reality, and at any given location, tidal water is always moving—slack is relative at best. Ebb occurs when the water is moving away from land, with the corresponding lowering of sea level. The low level occurs at the lowest point of the tidal cycle, followed by another slack. Because rivers and uneven currents add water to the ocean, there is a net movement of water away from land, toward, and into the ocean.

Fig. 5-8 a. Spring tide: Sun, Earth, and moon are aligned; b. Neap tide: Moon, sun and Earth form a 90-degree angle.

Be wary of tidal changes. For significant periods of time, there may be too little water covering the intertidal zone to float your boat. Where the sea bottom declines gradually, intertidal zones may extend considerably far into a waterway. Intertidal zones are marked on nautical charts, usually with a contrasting shaded area between dry land and water.

CURRENTS

Wear a helmet to protect your head whenever paddling in regions with strong currents or breaking waves. Kayakers paddle in two types of currents that move through terrain very similarly: river and tidal currents. Both river and tidal currents are the result of gravitational forces pushing water from higher to lower elevations. Rivers form as water carries away weaker earth, and flows around more resistant rock, from lofty mountains to the sea. Tides drive ocean currents, the way water moves as a result of the changing water surface height. Like winds, currents result from global, regional, and local forces, but currents affect the water.

The world’s oceans and waterways are dominated by continuous and directed water movement: great currents crossing the oceans, regional currents driven by tidal changes that move along shorelines and through major waterways, and smaller currents in intertidal zones that flow through channels, down rivers, and around landmasses. Kayakers who plan their adventure around the tidal changes can go faster and with more ease by paddling with the current, rather than against it.

The great currents of the oceans are dominated by a clockwise spiral in the Northern Hemisphere and a counterclockwise spiral in the Southern Hemisphere. These currents affect kayakers paddling in coastal regions. For example in North America, the dominant ocean current flows north along the East Coast and south along the West Coast.

Regional currents are driven by tidal changes as sea level rises and falls. As tides rise with the flood, ocean waters flow into broad waterways, such as bays and sounds, as well as up rivers and into narrower passages. With the ebb, and corresponding lowering of the sea level, water rushes toward the sea in currents expanding into broader waterways covering vast regions.

Locally, smaller currents flood into or ebb out of smaller bays and rivers, around islands, and through channels, narrows, and passes. When water moves from an open bay through a narrower channel, it speeds up. Paddling against this higher velocity, generally measured in nautical miles per hour, may be well beyond most kayakers’ ability. Once through the narrower constriction, the water velocity slows.

Fig. 5-9 Kayaking in current (Photo by Steve Wolff)

Current tables describe local currents and their unique conditions. However, currents are not always a simple flood and ebb in opposite directions. For example, during a flood tide the current may move around an island in the same direction as it does during the ebb. Local knowledge and charts, as well as tide and current tables, are key resources for planning a safe and fun kayak trip.

Because currents do not flow uniformly, usually because of some kind of obstruction, changes in the contour of the waterway bottom, or some other force acting on the water, some regions have areas with different velocities and current directions. Often these current differentials can be seen on the water surface: The water moves at different speeds or directions. In one area the water will be moving at one velocity, and right next to it water will be moving at a different velocity or in a different direction. Kayakers can feel these differentials as they paddle across a transitional region.

PADDLING INTO A CURRENT

When paddling into a current, the force of the water reduces speed. The same level of effort results in a slower kayak velocity. Since the water is moving toward the kayaker, it’s more difficult to apply power. As soon as the paddle blade is in the water, the current wants to push it downstream. Kayakers can counteract this by making certain the entire blade is immersed at the catch and by using a quicker, more dynamic movement when applying power. If the current is stronger and has a higher velocity than the kayaker, the paddler will move backward. As when paddling into a headwind, paddling into a current locks the stern in to a greater degree, meaning that maneuvering strokes are more effective at the bow.

Fig. 5-10 Kayaking into current (Photo by Steve Wolff)

Fig. 5-11 Ferrying across current

PADDLING ACROSS A CURRENT

When a kayaker paddles across a current, the kayak tends to be swept along with the flow. If kayakers wish to paddle straight across, they must yaw the kayak (described above). With yaw, the water on the upstream side of the kayak piles up against the boat. You must take care to edge the kayak to help the water pass under the kayak more readily. If it piles up too high, it will press down on the deck, and the boat will capsize. Edge the upstream side of the kayak higher, presenting more of its bottom to the oncoming current.

Yawing the kayak and paddling into the current combined with the current pressing on the kayak at an angle results in the kayak moving sideways across the current, known as ferrying. If the kayaker uses the appropriate ferry angle and the correct paddling power, the current will push the kayak straight across the current, without moving it up- or downstream. The stronger the current, the narrower the necessary ferry angle. The kayaker will point more directly into the current when it’s stronger.

Fig. 5-12 Forward ferry

Forward Ferrying

A critical skill for paddling in currents, ferrying requires practice and skill development. Like all sea kayaking skills, it also should be learned under an instructor’s supervision, so an instructor can be there to help in case you edge the wrong way and capsize, as well as to guide skill development.

Before learning a forward ferry, you should have a good sense of your kayak’s ability to edge and have developed that skill well. You should be able to direct your kayak with confidence and have practiced rescue skills in case you tip.

When learning to ferry, it’s best to find a very modest current with an adjacent eddy and a clear eddy line (see below). When you cross the eddy line, keep your bow pointed as straight up and into the current as possible. Paddle with enough power to maintain your position without being swept up or down current. It’s important to have a good sense of the power required to hold your position in a current. Take time to practice this skill in a variety of currents with differing velocities.

While maintaining your position in the current, edge the kayak so that the upstream side is raised and the downstream side lowered and let the bow turn to point in the direction you wish to ferry (fall off) just a little. The kayak will start to move in that direction. If you are not moving across the current as quickly as you would like, you can let the bow fall off a little farther. The farther you let the bow fall away from pointing directly into the current, the more quickly you’ll cross. If you let the bow fall off too far, however, the current will swing you around and point the kayak down current. It’s very difficult to fight the bow back up into the current once it’s fallen off too far. Simply paddle around and back into the eddy and try again.

Backward Ferrying

The preceding section describes a forward ferry, in which the bow points into the oncoming current. The same principles apply for a backward ferry, in which the stern points into the approaching current. Forward ferries are generally useful when coming out of an eddy and crossing a waterway that has a current. Back ferries are generally useful when a kayaker is paddling with the current and wishes to move sideways to avoid an obstacle, such as a rock. Back ferries allow the kayaker to stop, or nearly stop, move sideways, and then proceed through the clear course.

The same principles apply to a back ferry as to a forward ferry. Edge with the upstream side raised to allow water to pass more readily under the kayak and keep it from piling up on the deck. Let the upstream end, the stern, fall off to the side toward the direction of travel incrementally, until the kayak moves sideways at the desired velocity. Once you are in the clear channel, bring the kayak back in line with the current and continue on your way.

PADDLING IN A FOLLOWING CURRENT

When you paddle with a current, the force of the water increases your speed. The same level of effort results in a faster kayak velocity. It’s not unusual for currents to reach more than seven knots. A current combined with the paddling speed can move you quickly. Paddling with the current presents its own challenges though. Since the water is moving with you, as soon as the paddle blade is in the water, the water wants to grab the blade and pull it forward. This increased load (eccentric muscle activation) can cause muscle strain—be careful. As with paddling into a tailwind, paddling with a current locks the bow in to a greater degree, making maneuvering strokes more effective at the stern.

Fig. 5-13 Kayaking in a following current

CURRENT AND WAVE INTERACTION

When wind and currents are moving in the same direction, the water surface is usually very flat. A tailwind and following current make for a very fast passage. Paddling into a headwind and current will be tough physically, but the conditions should still be quite flat. However, when wind and current are opposing, conditions usually become quite rough, with confused water surface conditions.

Beginners should paddle in these conditions with caution. Make sure you let the boat finds its center of buoyancy on the different parts of the waves (roll, pitch, and yaw), stay relaxed, and keep the kayak moving. With practice these conditions become quite manageable and even playful.

LAUNCHING AND LANDING IN A CURRENT

When launching in areas with strong currents, find a quiet eddy to launch in. When you must launch in a current, point the bow into the oncoming current to maintain better control over your kayak. As with normal launching, drag your boat as little as possible on the shore, and float it as far out as you can before entering it.

To launch, use your paddle to brace across the back deck, drop your buttocks into the seat, and get your legs in as quickly as possible. Once you are in, you may be swept out into the current before you secure your spray skirt around the coaming. Don’t worry too much if this happens. You can ferry to a safer place, such as an eddy, to take care of it, or simply turn before you attach your skirt—whatever is safest. Avoid being pushed back into shore as you enter the kayak, which can scrape, scratch, and even crack your boat.

When landing in current, whenever possible, turn your kayak into the current and forward ferry to shore, which allows for a more controlled approach. A back ferry into shore is another option. However, all kayakers are more powerful and able to better control velocity paddling forward. Understanding a variety of conditions of currents and developing the skills that support safe and comfortable kayaking will let you enjoy many different kinds of paddling adventures.

PREDICTING TIDES AND CURRENTS

Since the physical movement patterns of the sun, earth, and moon are known and predictable, the movement of the world’s ocean waters are also predictable. This information, readily available on the internet and in tide tables, allows us to predict the conditions we expect to find on our outings.

Of particular consideration for kayakers is that all current predictions are for the center of the cited channel. Since kayakers should paddle only in the center of a channel during crossings and remain close to shore when normally under way, the current prediction does not exactly describe the conditions in which kayakers paddle most of the time. However, the predictions are the best we have, and they provide an adequate guide. For more detailed information on tide and current tables, see chapter 6, Route Planning and Navigation.

EDDIES

Quiet regions within areas of current, eddies offer a place to launch, land, rest, and align on a safer route, or serve as a means of moving into an oncoming current with less effort. As a paddler, you should understand how eddies form and how to paddle through, out of, and into them.

HOW EDDIES FORM

When currents run into a fixed obstruction, such as an island or even simply a rock, the water piles up on the upstream side until increased pressure forces it around the sides, at an increased velocity. Momentum then carries the water past the object, resulting in a low-pressure region on the object’s downstream side, an eddy. Water then backfills into the eddy, essentially moving against the dominant current. This backfilling eddy current is stronger closer to the obstruction where the low pressure is most concentrated, becomes weaker farther downstream, diminishes, and is eventually overpowered by the dominant current at the eddy’s downstream extreme.

Fig. 5-14 Shoreline features and eddies

EDDY LINES

The dominant current moves with the tide’s ebb or flood, and the eddy current moves in the opposite direction. This zone of opposing adjacent currents, often known as current differential or the eddy line, is readily visible to the kayaker.

USING EDDIES FOR SAFETY AND EASE

When you’re paddling in a current, especially in channels that require lots of maneuvering, eddies provide a calm place to take a break, rest, get a drink, have a bite to eat, or relax and regroup. Eddies provide a means to move laterally in the current to find a clearer channel, and they often offer calmer water conditions for launching and landing. By paddling to the top of an eddy to the obstruction that created it and ferrying, kayakers can eddy hop to paddle against the current. Learning how to make eddies work for you will expand your paddling opportunities and build the variety of conditions that you can paddle in.

ENTERING AND EXITING EDDIES

Because of the current differential at an eddy line, turning into and out of an eddy requires attention and care. When you’re turning into an eddy from the main current (entering an eddy), as the bow enters the eddy, the current will turn it upstream toward the obstacle forming the eddy. Because the current will continue to act on the stern until the kayak is entirely in the eddy, the boat will tend to turn upstream. This maneuver, known as an eddy turn, is a common method of entering an eddy. As your kayak enters an eddy, reach ahead with the paddle and grab the water in the eddy to get the eddy current to pull on the paddle, helping you enter it more quickly. During an eddy turn, edge the boat to expose the high side to the oncoming current (the upstream flow of eddy current) and prevent water from piling up on the deck and destabilizing the kayak.

The angle to use when entering the eddy from the current is generally between 20 and 60 degrees—the stronger the current, the smaller the angle. If the angle is too small, you could enter the eddy out of control, not turn upstream, and end up slicing across and into the current on the other side of the eddy or into the beach, if the eddy is along the shore. If the angle is too broad, you will likely be swept downstream and miss the eddy entirely.

Fig. 5-15 Turning into and out of an eddy

Fig. 5-16 Ferrying into an eddy

When turning from an eddy into the current (exiting an eddy), an eddy turn is again an effective tactic. You should build some momentum before crossing the eddy line to avoid being pushed back into the eddy by the oncoming current. As you cross the eddy line, reach out with the paddle and grab the water so that the current, which pulls on the blade, helps turn the boat around, to face downstream. Edge the boat so the high side faces the oncoming current to keep the water from building up on the deck and destabilizing the kayak.

When paddling with the current, you can also stop and back ferry (ferrying with the stern facing upstream, into an eddy). Simply continue the ferry into the eddy. Be aware that the eddy line’s current differential tends to push the kayak back into the current. You may need to let the stern turn toward the eddy at a greater angle than you would use to ferry to accelerate the kayak across the eddy line—the greater the angle away from the direction of current, the faster the kayak will ferry across the current.

Fig. 5-17 Paddling out of an eddy to ferry

When facing into the current, ferrying forward, the same principle applies as in back ferrying. Hold your ferry angle as you cross the current. When it’s time to enter the eddy, let the bow fall off a bit to accelerate the kayak across the eddy line.

EDDY HOPPING

When paddling up into the current and working your way upstream, hopping from one eddy to another, while still requiring effort, conserves your energy. Paddle up from the bottom of an eddy. Then at a very narrow angle to the main current, charge up to the top of the eddy near the obstruction forming the eddy and across the eddy line, without letting the bow swing around. Once you are in position to forward ferry, hold it to power up the current and into the bottom of the next eddy. Keep in mind that the next eddy may be on the other side of the waterway. By combining eddy hopping and forward ferries, you can work your way up quite a strong current.

COASTAL WATERS

Coastal shorelines are characterized by a transition from deep offshore ocean waters to increasingly shallow depths, to a region of beach, and finally to raised uplands. A pelagic coast borders the open ocean, while a bay or gulf offers more protected coastal kayaking regions.

Coastal waters are very popular paddling destinations for sea kayakers—after all, the coast frames the sea. The diverse paddling opportunities and scenery in this environment is beyond imagination. Shoreline geology, marine wildlife, and vegetation all offer marvelous opportunities to explore. Water conditions vary widely, from flat calm to swells taller than 30 feet (9 meters) to great dumping waves. When you venture into these conditions, take extreme caution. Become knowledgeable about local weather and sea conditions and the waterway’s unique characteristics and have a realistic understanding of your skills and capabilities.

COASTAL LANDFORMS

A bay, a large waterway almost surrounded by land, generally offers more protected kayaking conditions than the pelagic coast. It’s often protected from ocean swells, breaking surf, and wind. Bays often form when the ocean washes away softer material. They can also result from glacier and river erosion, leaving more solid rock headlands on each side. These promontories are frequently high points of land that protrude into the sea. Gently sloping beaches are usually found within a bay. Bays can have a narrow or wide opening. Long narrow bays are called fjords.

As ocean swells enter the bay, they usually break on the beach within the bay that’s exposed to the open ocean. When waves encounter a headland, the drag on their sides makes them wrap around it and create a point surf, a region where the surf breaks parallel to the shore along the side of the bay.

Fig. 5-18 Swells encountering a bay

A peninsula, the opposite of a bay, is land that protrudes into the sea. Like the headlands of a bay, the peninsula is often composed of solid rock that has stood against wind and water while surrounding softer rock has washed away. The end of a peninsula is often a dangerous place to kayak, as rock piles and vertical peninsula walls cause confused waters, reflected off the varied rock surfaces. Kayakers usually give these regions a wide berth as they navigate the coast.

As rivers flow from the mountains and plains to the sea, they degrade and collect rock and soil, which they deliver to the sea and deposit at river mouths, where the slope and velocity of the flowing river current ends. The region where the sediment drops out of the river current is characterized by a river delta, or lobe of unstable deposits through which the river flows. Rivers seek the most direct course through an ever flattening slope to the sea. River deltas are characterized by meandering and divided channels, as well as river, harbor, or mid-channel sandbars.

River deltas are shaped mainly by the river itself, by ocean waves, or by tidal forces of the sea. River-dominated deltas generally have multiple lobes. Over centuries the main river channel finds new courses and deposits new alluvial fans that spread out into the ocean. Wave-dominated deltas, where the sea’s turbulence pushes back against the invasive creeping sediment, are usually triangular with a flatter, rather than lobed, protrusion. Multiple channels, which are continuously leveled, filled in with silt, and diverted in a new direction, are typical of tide-dominated deltas. As the tidal waters move across the delta surface, they take sedimentary deposits up from the higher deposits and redistribute them to fill in lower areas.

Estuaries are common in coastal regions where tidal forces range far upriver. Here, the tidal action overpowers delta formation and carries the sediment out to sea.

River deltas and estuaries offer a wide variety of kayaking opportunities. River-dominated deltas, with their protruding fans, often have a gentle grade. Here waves build more slowly and break with less force. Often, on the side of the delta sheltered from the prevailing swell (the lee side), regions with little or no surf can be found. These areas offer developing kayakers an opportunity to access ocean paddling without the challenge of higher velocity or dumping surf.

Shoals of sandbars are linear landforms that extend from land into the water (a spit) or form parallel to a beach at or below the ocean surface (a longshore bar). As waves surge up the beach, the velocity of the water as it washes back carries sediments seaward. In the area of a wave break, the wave velocity impacts the backwash velocity, causing the suspended sediment to drop to the bottom and build a sandbar. Sandbars may be small local phenomena of shorter than 100 yards (meters) or far-reaching landforms extending hundreds of miles. While fine particles, such as sand, usually make up sandbars, under higher velocity water and wave conditions gravel and cobble may be present.

When you paddle in the ocean, you can sense sandbars because the swell increases in magnitude as it moves across the raised ocean bottom. After crossing the bar, the swell diminishes until it once again builds and breaks on the beach. As the tide fluctuates, the sandbar may move the wave break, even shifting the break to the bar itself.

Any beach with breaking waves may have rip currents, which are characterized by water moving away from the beach, through the surf, in a fairly well-defined channel. Highly unstable phenomena, rip currents may move to different regions of a beach each day. After swells build and break along the beach, the backwash moves sideways when impacted by the higher velocity next wave. The sideways-moving water accumulates until it finds a path of least resistance, usually between sandbars, and flows back to sea. Rips are apparent as regions of relative calm among the surf and are stronger when the surf is rough, as a result of onshore wind or during low tides.

The longshore bars and the rips that cut through them are constantly changing position in all directions. Because of the difference in water depth, during high tides, the region where waves break moves farther up the beach than during low tide. Therefore longshore bar formation also shifts closer to the beach. Similarly, during offshore winds, because the wave break is delayed closer to shore, the region where the longshore bar builds moves in the same direction. Because the longshore bar and the rips that cut through them are at a higher elevation, the rip velocity is greater as water returns to the sea.

For kayakers, rips offer a relatively easy passage through the surf zone to the intertidal region. Not only are they calmer areas without breaking waves, the water flow helps carry the kayak forward away from the beach. As rip currents can reach up to 8 feet (2.5 meters) per second in velocity, paddling against current may be problematic. When returning to the beach, kayakers usually avoid these regions.

INTERTIDAL ZONES

Regions that are covered with seawater at high tide and exposed to air during low tide in a variety of geologic conditions (sandy beaches, wetlands, and steep cliffs) are intertidal zones. Here marine life abounds with a wide variety of plants, such as algae and rockweed (fucus), and creatures, such as shellfish, anemones, urchins, and snails. These abundant food sources attract fish and marine mammals and fowl to this region as well.

The region offshore of the wave break is the lower intertidal zone. In this region waves are beginning to build into greater swells and seaweeds, such as kelp, abound. When you paddle parallel to shore, the lower intertidal zone offers an ideal environment, close enough to shore to quickly land and yet away from breaking waves. The surf intertidal zone is characterized by building and breaking wave action, while the swash intertidal zone includes the region where waves run up the beach and backwash toward the ocean. Intertidal zones are indicated on charts with a shaded area that contrasts with the deep water and land.

You should understand paddling conditions under various tidal heights and conditions. At low tides, the water may be too shallow to float a kayak. Currents may run through channels that allow paddling, while broad mudflats may be impassable. When planning a trip, consult tide tables, which predict the fluctuations in sea level at specific locations, to avoid impassable conditions.

SURF ZONE

After launching from a beach, to reach the lower intertidal zone, start in the swash intertidal zone, where the swash alternately runs up on the sand then cycles back out to sea through the backwash. Then move through the beach surge zone, where the oncoming water is deep enough to paddle. Beyond, where the wave breaks occur, is the surf zone: As a wave breaks, it rolls forward until it exhausts its energy. Offshore of the surfzone is the lower intertidal zone, where waves begin to build into greater swells.

When paddling coastal waters, be comfortable setting out from and returning to the beach. Specifically you must know how to choose launching and landing sites and then how to launch the kayak and return to the beach.

SITE SELECTION

Selecting launching and landing sites is critical to your success and safety. To learn to make safe, sound decisions and have good judgment at the shore, use charts that indicate beach characteristics, paddle with instructors, join experienced paddlers with local knowledge, make your own observations, and exercise good judgment.

While you’re planning your trip, charts can give you a good sense of the shoreline characteristics. When the contour lines of the intertidal zone and uplands are spread relatively far apart, a gradual slope is indicated. When the contour lines are very close together, the slope is more vertical and can even indicate a cliff. Charts generally indicate rocky regions, especially those with significant rock prominences, as well.

Estuaries and other regions of surging waves, as well as shoreline rips, offer relatively flat conditions and easier access. Shorelines with a gradual slope generate more moderate waves than those that are steeper. The elevation grade of the intertidal zone often continues along the beach area; careful observation of the uplands beyond the intertidal zone often is a key to accessible launching and landing zones.

SURF ZONE TIPS

SEAN MORLEY

Now a resident of Marin County, California, British-born Sean Morley began kayaking at the age of ten with the Boy Scouts. He took part in his first kayak race in 1978 and has since competed in many disciplines of paddle sport including white-water slalom and downriver racing, marathon, sprint, wave ski, surf life saving, and surf kayaking with success at national and international levels. An avid wave skier, Sean began participating in kayak surfing competitions in 2006 and in 2007 became the World Masters Champion.

He took up expedition sea kayaking in 1996 and in 1998 set a record for the fastest crossing of the Irish Sea in 11 hours 6 minutes. In 2004 he achieved his childhood dream by completing the first solo circumnavigation of the UK and Ireland by sea kayak; the first ever to include all of the inhabited islands. The 4500 mile expedition took 183 days and is the longest kayak journey ever undertaken in British waters. In September 2010 Sean attempted to complete the first circumnavigation of the Channel Islands of California. He was unsuccessful but linked six of the eight islands and learned much about himself and these beautiful islands along the way.

Sean is an ACA Level 4 Coastal Kayak Instructor and Level 3 Surf Kayak Instructor.

Avoidance: Let’s face it, sea kayaks are not designed for surfing. Unless you are an expert, it is very difficult to control a sea kayak and change direction in surf with wave faces taller than three to four feet. A fully-loaded sea kayak is almost impossible to control—no matter your skill level. Avoid surf landings in this case if possible. After all, if you are staying on the beach overnight, can you confidently predict what the surf will be like in the morning?

Practice: That said, you should practice for situations where you have no option but to launch or land through surf. Choose a suitable sandy beach, well away from any other surf craft users or swimmers and one that has a spilling rather than a dumping wave. River mouths often make excellent practice zones for sea kayakers wanting to enhance their surf skills, but make sure it is an incoming tide!

Control your speed: Speed can be your enemy or your friend in the surf. Learn when to stop and wait or even back paddle and when to go for it! When you make a decision, don’t hesitate. Adrenaline can provide the power you need to punch through a wave, chase after a broken wave, or even race ahead of a menacing breaker. Keep your bow pointing at the line up, power up when the time is right, and don’t look back!

Be ready for the brace: The main reason paddlers capsize in surf is because they are too slow to brace onto the wave as the kayak broaches. Anticipate which way the kayak will broach, and be ready to brace onto the wave face. If it is a small wave, you will continue to brace on its foam pile. You will be amazed how big a wave you can ride to shore, but you had better know that there is nothing in your way. Other than keeping yourself upright, you will have very little control.

Timing is everything: Spend some time looking at the surf either from the shore when you are about to launch or, if you are about to land, from safely outside of the impact zone. Understand the rhythm and number of waves in a set. Look for rocks, rips, and any long-shore drift. Consider the worst-case scenario. Think about where you will end up if you come out of your kayak.

Prepare yourself and your kayak: If you are in the habit of carrying everything but the kitchen sink on your deck, now is the time to clear it, secure anything that might be loose in your cockpit, and take off your hat and sunglasses. If you don’t, you will inevitably lose it all. You’d better be dressed for immersion too!

Choose your terrain at a beach with a surf zone with care. The ideal beach is sandy with a gradual slope. Avoid rocky beaches as much as possible—the risk of damage to your kayak is greater. The greatest risk is of puncturing the kayak hull. In areas of submerged rocks, swells can lift the kayak and, as they pass, forcefully drop the boat onto the underwater rocks, puncturing the hull.

Local knowledge of paddling destinations is of great value; charts often do not indicate many smaller rocks or obstructions that kayakers may find. While paddling, carefully observe conditions and terrain to stay safe and enjoy your trip. The upward-swept bow on many sea kayaks, while reducing waterline length and therefore hull speed, allows them to ride up and onto rocks or obstructions, thereby softening the blow and minimizing damage.

LAUNCHING

To launch you must preposition and load your kayak, move it into the swash region, enter the kayak, move through with the backwash across the beach surge zone, and then power through the breaks and beyond the surf zone to the calmer lower intertidal zone. As with all your kayaking adventures, working as a team with your fellow paddlers can vastly increase the ease and safety of surf zone launching.

To protect your kayak, avoid dragging it on the ground as much as possible. A fully loaded boat, especially one packed with camping equipment, however, is usually too heavy to carry. Many experienced kayakers bring a large, lightweight carrying bag or two that they use to move gear to the edge of the swash zone. Using bags, you can carry and load your kayak in that location before dragging it the short distance into the swash zone. Prepare to launch by having your gear stowed securely in your kayak, your emergency gear readily available, your dry suit zipped securely, your life jacket buckled, and your helmet on your head.

Once in the swash zone sit in the boat and secure your spray skirt. To enter the kayak, simply straddle the boat with one foot on each side of the cockpit, squat, drop your buttocks onto the seat, and then move one leg at a time into the cockpit. If your legs are long (or your cockpit short) and you cannot get them into the kayak while sitting, lift yourself up onto the back of the cockpit rim, slide your legs in, and lower yourself onto the seat.

In the swash zone, a kayak alternately floats on the swash and sits on the sand during the cycling of the backwash. When you paddle with friends, they can stand at the ends of your kayak, one or more on each side, to help control its position while you get in the boat and get set to go. The assisting team members can then help move the kayak into the beach surge zone, where the water is deep enough to paddle. As team members launch and fewer are available to help, focus on controlling the bow of the kayak—that’s where the greater water force is found and the stern is really locked in when it sits on the beach. The last helper should be positioned at the bow of the kayak. Helpers should take care to have good solid footing and turn their backs to the oncoming surge, as this is a stronger, more stable position to avoid being knocked over by a wave.

Inevitably one last team member will be left to launch alone. After packing the kayak and securing the hatches, this paddler can drag the kayak into the swash zone. Ideally, the kayaker can board between surges while the boat is sitting on the beach. While boarding, the kayaker holds position during a beach surge and waits for the backwash to move out from under the boat. Once the paddler is sitting back on the sand, he can attach his spray skirt. When the next surge comes, the paddler can hold position during the surge and move the kayak forward and into the beach surge zone with the next backwash.

To minimize wear on the hull, as well as make it easier to propel the boat, time the move to start forward as the swash comes in and floats the kayak, and then continue forward with the backwash. Once the backwash has passed underneath, wait for the next beach surge to repeat this process until the kayak is far enough into the beach surge zone to float.

When holding your position in the swash region and when moving with the backwash into the beach surge zone, try to minimize wear and tear on your paddle. Many kayakers dig their blade into the sand to push forward or push off rocks, but this approach wears the paddle blade and can compromise its integrity. You could instead push off the bottom with your hands.

When you push off with your hands, you can push up as well, lightening the kayak and protecting the hull from contact with the ground. With a hand on each side of the kayak hull, push down and forward, like you would do when getting up from an armchair. While pushing with your hands, keep the paddle in front of you and hold it against your torso with your elbows as in an assisted rescue. In this position, the paddle is readily available once you are in the deeper water of the beach surge zone, and you are less likely to drop it.

Fig. 5-19 The beach surge zone is the region between the beach and surf where the wave loses its force and the water is deep enough to paddle. (Photo by Rob Casey)

Once you are in the beach surge zone, the conditions are fairly stable, giving you an opportunity to focus on the wave pattern and to prepare to move through the breakers. Keep your kayak pointed into the breakers to keep from being turned sideways and pushed back onto the beach. Gently paddling forward will allow you to maintain your position or move closer to the surf zone.

As you reach the surf zone it’s time to paddle with power. When a wave breaks, rolls forward, and exhausts its energy, move forward vigorously. Paddling forward just after the closest wave breaks and before it completely exhausts its energy will minimize the number of breaking waves you encounter within the surf zone. Power through the swirling wave and toward the next.

At this point you will probably be where the waves break. If possible, continue to paddle forward and up the face of oncoming waves. If you can top the wave before it breaks, power forward and into the region beyond the surf zone. If the wave starts to break before you can top over it, align your paddle fore and aft with the kayak and bend forward as close to the deck as possible. Aligning the paddle with the kayak reduces the chance that it will be pulled from your hands.

Fig. 5-20 Top the wave before it breaks. (Photo by Rob Casey)

Fig. 5-21 Beyond the breaking waves is the relatively calm lower intertidal zone. (Photo by Rob Casey)

Bending forward reduces your frontal profile so that you will be less likely to be stopped as you slice through the wave. If you sit up, the wave will press on the greater surface area—you will be pushed backward and lose ground. Bending forward also shifts your body weight forward and helps keep the bow down and punching through the wave, keeping the wave from pushing you vertically and possibly pirouetting you. Once through the wave, sit up and continue to power forward.

You may have to punch through several waves to get beyond the surf zone. Keep powering forward between waves as much as possible, and duck and punch through them when they come. Once you move beyond the surf zone, paddling will feel more normal and comfortable.

LANDING

To return to the beach from the swell region, you must move with the swell into and through the wave-breaking region, maintain control and alignment, paddle with the beach swell and with the swash, stop during the backwash, exit the kayak, and move it upland. Throughout the entire landing process, it is important that you stay aligned with the swell, surf, beach swell, and swash.

The first step in preparing to return to the beach is to observe the terrain, wind, and surf conditions. Survey the terrain’s slope and any individual rocks or rocky regions that you should, if at all possible, avoid. Monitor wind conditions to understand what to expect in wave characteristics—flatter and more gently breaking with an onshore wind and steeper and dumping with an offshore wind. Observe the direction of the swell, as well as the wave length and height. Watch how the swell builds and the waves break and where they take the energy onto the beach. And then pick your spot, align your kayak with the swell, and start to paddle forward.

As you paddle, the swells will rise and fall with increasing amplitude. Eventually you will reach the region where the waves get very steep and get ready to break. You will feel the stern lift, quite a lot with taller waves, as the swell reaches the kayak. As the swell moves under the kayak, the stern will drop and the bow will rise. The kayak stern and bow will rise and fall with the passing of each swell. With practice, you will become very comfortable with this action on the boat.

Once you are in the region where the waves start to break, as a wave lifts the stern, back paddle, to slow your forward movement and let the wave pass under you more quickly. And then it’s time to go—power up and chase the wave into the beach surge zone. If another wave catches up, follow the same process: Slow the kayak, let the wave pass underneath, and then chase that wave.

Fig. 5-22 Back paddle to get behind a wave in the surf zone. (Photo © Dominick Lemarie)

Fig. 5-23 If you turn sideways and broach the wave, brace into it. (Photo by Rob Casey)

Throughout the entire process of landing, keep the kayak moving in the same direction as the waves. To avoid turning sideways (broaching) to the wave, correct even minor course deviations from the wave direction. Through most of the landing procedure, steering at the stern with rudder strokes is more effective. Leaning back toward the stern also helps keep the stern from lifting too high, which can make you pirouette and broach the wave.

If your kayak does turn sideways, there is far too much energy in the wave for you to overcome it with paddling force and point back toward the beach. At that point, simply brace into the wave and ride it in a broached position. The ride will be a little bumpy, but you can handle it. Bracing into the wave, while counterintuitive, is very effective. If you try to brace on the onshore side of your kayak, the paddle will dive under the water and your kayak will capsize. Brace into the wave and keep your weight on your hip that’s closest to the wave.

Once you’ve paddled through the breaking surf and into the beach surge zone, where the wave has exhausted its energy, there is often enough water to paddle in (and even to turn around and head back out if desired). To continue to land, time your forward movement by paddling with the surge and swash. In a short time the backwash will push the water out from under your kayak, and you may wind up sitting on the ground. Simply wait for another swash and see if you can get farther up the beach before exiting the kayak.

Before you exit the kayak, during the last swash, pop your spray skirt off and prepare to hop out. Then as the backwash puts your kayak back on the sand, quickly pull your legs out, straddle the boat, and stand up. After you exit the kayak, it will float higher so the next swash will move your boat more than when you were sitting in it. With your feet on each side of the boat and holding the deck, you can control the kayak position as the next swash moves up the beach. Hold the boat in place until the backwash is gone, and then work your way to the bow (don’t let go of the perimeter deck line), and grab the T-handle. With the next swash, pull the kayak upland, partly dragging and partly floating, until you’re out of the swash zone. Now you can unload your gear into your lightweight carrying bags, set them aside, and carry the boat upland. Return for your bags and carry them to your kayak.

OCEAN SWELLS

Ocean paddling offers unlimited paddling conditions. Beautiful coastlines, incredible wildlife, and marine fauna present endless opportunities for adventure and fulfilling life experiences. As you kayak in ocean swells, offshore of the surf zone, with lots of ups and downs, it’s important to maintain dynamic stability. As the water pushes, lifts, and turns the kayak, keep your center of mass over the center of buoyancy, using primarily your abdominal and back muscles (rectus abdominus, transverse abdominus, and erector spinae), to maintain stability in even the most challenging conditions.

The best time to change your course is as the kayak tops the swell. In this position, since both the bow and stern are out of the water and neither is locked in, you can quickly turn the kayak. Take care when trying to maintain a course, because taking any stroke with the kayak at the top of the swell tends to turn the boat.

SURFING WITH A SWELL

When paddling with the swell, you can also surf on its face. As the following swell lifts the stern, with the bow in the trough in front of the wave, accelerate the kayak forward. The bow’s buoyancy in the trough will displace the force of lifting the stern and the action of gravity pushing the kayak down into the trough. Combined with moderate effort paddling forward, the kayak will remain on the face of the swell, and the swell will push the kayak forward—a great way to cover lots of distance without a lot of effort. With the bow in the trough and locked in and the stern up in the air and loose, or free to move, you can steer much more effectively at the stern. Here, to maintain forward momentum and remain on the face, use forward sweeps from mid-kayak to the stern, which turn the boat away from the paddling side and move you forward.

Fig. 5-24 Surfing on the swell

Fig. 5-25 Paddling toward the swell

PADDLING INTO A SWELL

When you paddle a kayak into swells, the bow lifts into the air, and after you top the wave, it flops down onto the water. The stern remains locked in most of the time, except when the boat tops the wave. While the bow is being lifted by the swell, it’s very loose; you can steer more effectively from the bow. Here, sweep strokes from the bow to mid-kayak help to keep the kayak moving forward and turn it away from the paddling side.

PADDLING SIDEWAYS TO A SWELL

Kayaking with swells coming in from the sides involves lots of lifting and falling. The ends of the kayak alternately rise and fall, or the entire kayak lifts up and falls down in a relatively level orientation. The part of the kayak that rises first is the part of the boat that the swell reaches first, is less locked in, and offers the most effective end at which to steer.

Get in close or marvel at the grand view; sea kayaking offers it all!

CHAPTER 6

Route Planning and Navigation

Navigation is critical to safe kayaking. Carefully plan your route before you begin the trip, and carefully follow your course to arrive at your expected destination pretty close to the planned time. Understanding navigation concepts and knowing how to use trip planning resources and navigation tools will allow you to increase your level of safety and trip predictability when kayak touring.

Navigation involves two general stages: planning and execution. Route planning involves deciding where you want to go and when it makes sense to take your trip, choosing your route and marking your nautical chart(s), and understanding the tides and currents you can expect, as well as checking wind and weather predictions closer to your trip. Key components of executing your route plan are knowing where you are (your position), having a sense of where you’re going, and understanding what you need (Visual references) to get there, as well as being able to follow a plotted course.

ROUTE PLANNING

One of the most fascinating parts of any sea kayak adventure is planning the route—choosing your destination and the route for getting there. To safely and successfully reach your paddling destination, whether you are paddling for part of a day or are going on a grand expedition, you must plan the route that will take you there. Some routes may take months to plan. You may need to gather numerous charts, pore through descriptive publications, understand weather and sea conditions, and develop contingencies in case of emergencies. Other trip-planning considerations, such as knowing where primary and alternative campsites are, as well as being aware of drinking water sources, planning meals, and accumulating food, are covered in chapter 7. Ultimately, planning a sea kayak trip is about having a desire and creating a vision for a certain life experience and then learning how to fulfill that dream.

Fig. 6-1 Plan your course and mark your chart accordingly.

In its most fully developed form, your route plan should include daily starting and ending points, with a course, course headings, and the anticipated duration of each segment clearly marked on a chart. Places to stop and rest, make a bathroom stop, have a meal, get water, camp, and evacuate in case of an emergency should be well known and highlighted on your chart.

You can gather route information from local residents (paddlers who have already been where you wish to go), guidebooks, and other publications, such as magazines and videos, that describe destinations. Your research process can be as deep and engaging as you wish—generally, the more information you have, the easier it will be to execute your plan and make navigation decisions once you are out on your trip.

No matter how well you research your destination and route, you can never have perfectly complete information, nor can you predict every detail. The weather and seas change, terrain erodes and changes, and tidal height and current predictions, which are for channel centers, may be very different along the shoreline where kayakers paddle. You must be flexible and able to adapt to situations and environs.

While route planning is a critical component of any adventure, kayaking trips rarely go exactly as planned. You will likely need to adjust your trip along the way, because of changes in wind, weather, or sea conditions. You may need to reassess your predicted daily paddling speed and distance or add or eliminate a rest day. Or you may just change your mind, because you see something of interest that you want to investigate or you simply want to spend more time at a wonderful location.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

Nothing is a stronger source of information than your personal paddling experience at a destination. Experiencing local waterways, sea conditions, and terrain provides you with insight that cannot be replicated.

For paddling routes that are new to you, consider gathering information from local paddlers who have frequently kayaked in the area. These kayakers have experienced the area’s conditions while paddling a kayak and have greater insight than any source other than your own experience.

Locals who are not paddlers but who fish in or cruise the area can also provide a wealth of information. They can offer insights into details on conditions, features, and especially more recent changes, which are often missing from publications and charts. Personal experience and advice from other paddlers with experience and local nonpaddlers who frequent your destination can be valuable information sources to help you plan and execute a safe and enjoyable trip.

GUIDEBOOKS

Another great way to learn about places to paddle and possible experiences is by reading guidebooks, especially those devoted to sea kayaking. These great sources have ideas about places to paddle and basic logistics for trip planning to a wide variety of destinations. Guidebooks usually include a destination, course possibilities to that destination, places to launch and land, water sources and facilities, a description of a range of conditions, and what you can expect to see. General guidebooks for sailors, hikers, and campers may also help you plan your route and activities once you land.

Many kayak guidebooks are produced in a small format so that they can be taken on trips. If you take them with you, you can refer to them if your plan changes and you need to make adjustments. Balance the benefit of having the information with you against the weight of hauling it.

A note of caution: The quality of information found in guidebooks may not be as high as you might expect. Even books written by local paddlers about an area they kayak are sometimes inaccurate. Maybe managing agencies have changed their policies, or perhaps the terrain has changed since the work was published. Or the author may not have explored that particular destination as well as he should have.

OTHER SOURCES

Several kayakers have created films about their experiences, which can also be of great help. Magazines, especially those with a significant portion devoted to kayak touring, publish numerous articles about paddling destinations. Searching a magazine’s website will often yield at least one great article about your desired destination. Such publications are excellent vehicles to build your general knowledge of great paddling destinations.

FINDING YOUR WAY IN A KAYAK

KEN FINK

Ken Fink is the founder of Kayaken Outfitters and the mastermind and leader of a successful and highly visible kayak circumnavigation around Long Island. He and two colleagues paddled 300 miles in 12 days to call attention to the plight of Alzheimer’s victims. A native of the New York City metro area, Ken grew up on Long Island’s North Shore. He is a certified American Red Cross kayaking instructor.

The truth is that we can do a lot of sea kayaking without ever needing any knowledge of navigation. For most paddling trips, we are following a shoreline and rarely venture over open water toward an unseen location. We usually can even see the spot toward which we are paddling most of the time. But, sooner or later when dense fog catches us, we get benighted, or we can’t see our destination, we had better know how to navigate our way on a course to a safe landing. It is amazing how easy it is to get confused within a very short distance.

We’ve come a long way in kayak navigation over the last twenty years or so. When I began finding my way, all we had was dead reckoning by way of chart and compass, and then we entered the magic age of the handheld Global Positioning System (GPS). For beginners, it is a serious mistake to believe that a GPS receiver makes navigation simple if you don’t understand the fundamental principles of navigating with a chart and compass. And if your batteries die and you are left holding a paperweight, knowing navigation with a chart and compass will save the day.

The Essence of Navigation

In the many navigation classes I’ve taught for more then twenty years, I’ve summed up the essence of navigation as “Always knowing exactly where you are!” This is much more difficult than it sounds because we live in a three-dimensional world, but navigation involves translating your three-dimensional surroundings into the two-dimensional flat land of the navigational charts or your GPS screen. When you see a group of islands on the chart and then look for them from the deck of your kayak, they may appear as a solid mass. One of the major hurdles in learning to navigate is being able to go from chart to real world and back again. Of course, you can trust your GPS screen to always show your position in the real world with the triangular indicator, and you can even watch it move along as you paddle in some direction. But that method can lead to trial-and-error directions, unless you know how to set a compass course using a chart and follow it to get to where you’d like to go.

To navigate you need two essential ingredients: 1) a means of representing the three-dimensional world around you on an easily managed and handy two-dimensional chart of wherever you are and want to go on the water and 2) a means of using a unique feature of the earth—its magnetic field—which the magnetic compass does. With a nautical chart (provided by NOAA in the United States) and a compass, you have what you need for navigation and a means to always keep track of exactly where you are.

Chart Essentials

You must learn how to use a marine chart because the chart has all the important information you’ll need to be able to navigate whether you use a chart and compass or a GPS receiver.

LINES DESIGNATING LATITUDE AND LONGITUDE

On all marine charts you’ll see a grid of perpendicular lines superimposed on the chart area. If you look at the degrees and minutes of latitude and compare a minute of latitude on your chart to the bar scale indicating nautical miles at the bottom of the chart, you’ll see that one minute of latitude equals one nautical mile on the chart—a convenient means of measuring distances on the chart by using the degrees and minutes along each side of the chart. Don’t use the longitude scale since the minutes, etc., of longitude are not related to linear distances on the chart. The first essential aspect of navigating—determining distance between two points—is readily available by using the latitude scale.

MERCATOR PROJECTIONS

The first step in designing charts was to provide a two-dimensional representation of some portion of the earth’s surface, achieved by using geometric projections—the usual one for marine charts being the Mercator. This projection straightens out the lines of longitude, which, on the earth’s sphere, converge to meet at each pole of the earth. By straightening the lines of longitude, the longitude and latitude lines become rectilinear. This straightening required some distortion, which makes the areas of landmasses appear relatively larger from the equator to the limits of the chart. Mercator charts do not include the polar regions. It makes no difference in practice since the chart looks exactly as it would if you flew over the area in an airplane. Since the linear scales are the same in all directions, you can paddle along a straight line between two points on the chart as a single compass course.

THE SCALE OF CHARTS

Marine charts for navigation are printed to cover large and small areas of the earth’s surface. Charts are made for areas as small as a single harbor or as large as the whole world, excluding the polar regions. This results in charts of varying scales expressed, e.g., as 1:40,000, 1:80,000, or 1:12,000. These numbers are ratios of distances on the chart to distances on the earth. In other words, for 1:12,000, this means 1 inch equals 12,000 inches on the earth’s surface. Since it is a ratio, it also means 1 foot measured on the chart equals 12,000 feet on the earth’s surface. The variability in sizes of areas shown on charts and the scale of a particular chart leads us to refer to charts as large-scale or small-scale charts. These terms are not exact, but are relative to one another depending on your uses and needs.

Of the three examples, if we put the 1 in the numerator and the 40,000, 80,000, or 12,000 in the denominator, you can see that we can derive decimal numbers. Of the three derived decimal numbers, 1 divided by 80,000 is the smallest number of the three and 1 divided by 12,000 is the largest decimal. So, the 1:80,000 is a small-scale chart (relatively) and the 1:12,000 is a large-scale chart. Small-scale charts show relatively large areas of the world, and large-scale charts provide significant detail for small areas, such as a harbor. I always carry both on my trips. Usually, I don’t require a lot of detail for kayak navigation since I can readily see the detail by looking around me. For multiday trips paddling 20 to 40 miles a day, I need an adequate small-scale chart (such as 1:250,000) that allows me to use the same chart for a number of days. Even a 1:40,000 scale chart is useful for only a two- to three-hour paddle before you need to break out another chart.

CHART COMPASS ROSE

The Mercator projection, developed in the 16th century by G. Mercator (with contributions from several other cartographers along the way) was a major breakthrough for navigation, but to navigate away without land in sight or through fog, we needed knowledge of the earth’s magnetic field. We had the magnetic compass to provide us relative magnetic directions, but it was soon known that the north-seeking needle did not point to geographic north or the north axis of rotation of the earth. We needed knowledge of the magnetic declination and its variability over the earth’s surface. Magnetic declination is simply the angle between magnetic north (the direction toward which the north needle of the compass points wherever you are) and geographic or true north. Along most of the US East Coast, the declination is westerly, and on the West Coast, declination is easterly. The declination is zero if you are paddling near the Apostle Islands in Lake Superior. If you look at any marine chart, you will see two circles with one drawn inside the other—this is the compass rose and there are several in different locations distributed on any one chart. At the top of each circle are two indicators, slightly offset from each other for geographic north and for magnetic north. The angle of the offset of the compass rose geographic north and magnetic north for any chart is determined by the magnetic declination.

Now here’s the best part, you don’t really care about the geographic north or other geographic, or true, directions for navigating in a kayak anywhere in the world. After all, you determine your paddling directions using a magnetic compass, so you live in the magnetic world for navigation, you ignore the geographic coordinates, and you pay attention to and use only the magnetic directions of the compass rose. Of course a GPS receiver gives you the choice of selecting either magnetic or true directions for navigating; unless you know what you are doing, you are far better off selecting magnetic headings.

ADDITIONAL CHART INFORMATION

There are many additional symbols on the nautical charts which can be useful to us; these include depth indicators, colors to distinguish between land and sea, colors to make shoal areas prominent, symbols to show the location and type of channel markers, warning buoys, lighthouses, day marks indicating exposed ledges at low tide, and so forth. All of the symbols and the information provided by each on the chart can be found in the list provided by US Chart No. 1 by NOAA—all marine charts are referred to by a reference number.

You will soon discover that paddling up to a colored nun or can buoy with a number on it (such as a large No. 1) and then trying to locate yourself by finding that number on your chart is a very bad idea since the same numbers often are on the same chart several times. But, if you think you ought to be arriving at a particular buoy and the number you see agrees with what you expect, you are likely doing fine.

Now Let’s Navigate

To navigate, first select your starting point and then a destination a few miles away, preferably a straight line. Lay off the distance between the two points with a pair of dividers, or even by laying a piece of paper on the chart and make two tick marks for the beginning and the end of the straight line distance. Then determine the nautical miles between the two points by using the latitude scale running up the right and left sides of the nautical chart. Now you know the distance you will be traveling. If you know approximately how fast your average paddling speed is for the conditions for the trip, you can quickly calculate the amount of travel time. Next you need to know the compass course you need to paddle to reach your destination. This is where the compass rose comes into play.

One means of using the compass rose is to use a pair of parallel rules. Lay the rules on the chart so that one edge is directly on the chart and connects the two points (beginning and end of trip). Parallel rules allow you to “walk” the rules in any direction and maintain the same orientation on the chart. By moving the rules to the compass rose, place one of the rules through the center of the compass rose. You can then read directly the magnetic course for your trip and after placing your compass onto the deck of your kayak, turn the bow of the kayak until the correct direction is indicated on the compass card. You are now ready to paddle to your intended landing spot. More complicated trips with many changes of direction are simply extensions of this basic technique.

If you have graduated to using a GPS receiver, it does not relieve you of the fundamentals of navigation (determining distance and compass course), it simply makes it easier and you can follow your progress on a GPS screen at any scale you like. A GPS receiver provides a convenient system that lets you follow your moving kayak as you paddle; currents, wind set, and effects of waves are reflected in your progress on the GPS screen. A GPS receiver has many screens that you can cycle through and each screen is a different compilation of information from tides to an on-screen magnetic compass, to a log of your maximum speed, average speed, stopped time, moving time, etc. Your actual paddling track is also recorded as a line on the GPS chart screen, which means you can always turn around and retrace your route regardless of the changes of course you might have made. You can even set up routes to some destination with many changes of course before you ever leave your starting point. Then you paddle the route and correct your course, even in the fog, to stay on your predetermined route. Once you have mastered basic chart and compass navigation, the GPS receiver feels magical.

NAUTICAL CHARTS

In all aspects of planning and navigating a trip, sea kayakers use nautical charts. These charts are representations of the earth that include terrain, landmarks, and a reference system, the coordinate system, to help plan and follow courses, calculate distances, and find positions. Nautical charts project a three-dimensional spherical object (the earth) onto a flat sheet of paper (a projection) to make it easier to use a coordinate system.

Charts are invaluable tools for kayakers in route planning and execution, establishing and following a course, finding a position, and avoiding collision. Keys, compass rose, Vessel Traffic Service (VTS) zones, Aids to Navigation (ATONs), contour lines, and landmarks, assist all mariners—in this book’s case, kayakers. Chart Number 1, published by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) for the United States or by the Canadian Hydrographic Service for Canada, is a booklet that lists all the terms, abbreviations, and symbols used in all the nautical charts published by these respective countries. In the United States, Chart Number 1 is available free online through NOAA (see Resources). This key is a great resource that should be part of every kayaker’s library.

THE COORDINATE SYSTEM

The coordinate system is established by drawing imaginary planes, or slices, through the earth. Where each plane intersects the earth’s surface, there is a circle. These great circles are established both horizontally and vertically to create the coordinate system.

The great circles with a horizontal orientation are called parallels of latitude. These great circles are set parallel to the equator and form disks of equal height, both to the north and to the south. The distances from the equator to both poles are divided evenly into 90 degrees. Parallels of latitude range from 0 degrees at the equator to 90 degrees north at the North Pole and 90 degrees south at the South Pole.

The great circles with a vertical orientation are called meridians of longitude; they define the distances both to the east and to the west from the prime meridian, which is located at Greenwich, Great Britain. Meridians of longitude begin at 0 degrees at the prime meridian and range toward the east or west, up to 180 degrees. The 180th meridian, on the opposite side of the earth from Greenwich, is known as the international date line. These meridians of longitude all intersect in a line extending through the center of the earth, from pole to pole. Each meridian looks like a wedge, like those of an orange segment.

Fig. 6-2 The vertical lines are meridians of longitude; the horizontal lines are parallels of latitude.

Because parallels of latitude and meridians of longitude are constructed differently—horizontal slices versus wedges—degrees, minutes, and seconds of latitude rarely equal longitude. One minute of latitude equals one nautical mile because parallels of latitude are of a consistent distance. That is not the case for meridians of longitude.

MERCATOR PROJECTIONS

Because maps and charts need to represent the earth’s curved lines as straight, on a two-dimensional surface like a sheet of paper, the representation of the earth is altered from a sphere into a cylinder. The meridians of longitude become parallel, rather than wedge-shaped, which distorts and expands the shape and size of the earth’s sphere closer to the poles. This representation of the earth is called a Mercator projection, the standard used to create nautical charts. Each nautical chart depicts a small portion of this cylinder.

All methods of projections that represent a sphere as a flat surface produce distortions. The distortions in Mercator projections begin at the equator and increase closer to each pole. This is why on a Mercator projection Greenland appears to be as large as Africa, when Africa actually covers nearly fourteen times the surface area of Greenland. For kayakers, the relatively small area covered by nautical charts minimizes the distortion and allows for very accurate distance measurements.

Fig. 6-3 A Mercator projection of the earth

COORDINATES FOR EVERY PLACE ON EARTH

The horizontal parallels of latitude and the vertical meridians of longitude form a grid, the coordinate system. Every location on earth can be described as the intersection of a unique parallel of latitude and a unique meridian of longitude. The numbering of this navigational grid is based on the concept that the earth is a sphere. All measurements are in increments of degrees, minutes (60 minutes per degree), and seconds (60 seconds per minute).

On nautical charts, any place on earth can be described by its distance, north or south, from the equator and by its distance, east or west, from the prime meridian in Greenwich, England, which is at 51 degrees, 28 minutes, 38 seconds north latitude and 0 degrees, 0 minutes, 0 seconds east longitude (51°28′38″N, 0°00′00″E)—its location. A location is a fixed point that does not change.

Nautical charts are oriented so that north is at the top and south the bottom, with east on the right and west on the left. The Mercator coordinate system is printed along the edges of nautical charts. Along the right and left sides are the parallels of latitude; the top and bottom are marked in meridians of longitude. Periodically, gridlines are marked across the chart—for example, every 15 minutes on a chart with a scale of 1:80,000 (see NOAA chart 18421 for most examples in this chapter).

Here are some examples of how the coordinate system describes any given location: Cascade Canoe & Kayak, in Renton, Washington, has the coordinates of 47 degrees, 30 minutes, 3.09 seconds north latitude by 122 degrees, 12 minutes, 52.60 seconds west longitude (47°30′03.09″N latitude, 122°12′52.60″W longitude). The old boathouse along the Tisza River in Tiszaujvaros, Hungary, for instance, has the coordinates of 47°54′01.01″N, 21°03′29.55″E. The northwest tip of Jones Island, in Washington State’s San Juan Islands, has coordinates of 48°37′16.56″N latitude, 123°02′55.02″W longitude.

For kayaking, accuracy to a hundredth of a second is unnecessary detail. Because many nautical charts simply divide minutes into tenths, accuracy to the nearest tenth of a minute is adequate.

ELEMENTS OF CHARTS

Nautical charts include many features specifically designed to help users read, understand, and work with them.

Chart Key

Somewhere on the chart, positioned where it doesn’t block important geographic features, is the chart key. The key provides chart information, such as the scale, soundings, the manner in which water depths are determined, and notes.

The chart scale refers to the ratio by which the chart area has been reduced to fit on the sheet. For example, a scale of 1:200,000 means one unit of distance (a nautical mile, a meter, or a foot) on the chart equals 200,000 of those same units of distance on the earth. A chart with such a large area displays less detail. In contrast, a chart with a scale ratio of 1:80,000 covers a much smaller area in greater detail (see NOAA chart 18421). And a chart with a scale ratio of 1:25,000 covers an even smaller area and in greater detail (see NOAA chart 18449). Because of the distortions of the Mercator projection, the scale ratio is measured from a specific location on the chart. The scale ratio is listed by the chart bar scale.

Fig. 6-4 A nautical chart

Soundings are the water depth measurements printed on nautical charts, usually in increments of fathoms (six feet), meters, or feet. Soundings increments are indicated in the chart key (and often at the bottom of the chart as well). The small numbers printed frequently throughout waterways on a chart are location soundings.

Notes cover a wide range of information, including copyright notices, how to make pollution reports, references for ATONs, tidal height measurements, traffic patterns, weather radio frequencies, magnetic disturbances, and wildlife refuges and marine sanctuaries. Tidal height measurements describe the point in the tidal flux where water depths are measured, for example, mean high-high or the average of the higher of the two daily high tides.

Distance Scale

Distance scales, the means to understand route distances, are usually printed outside the perimeter of the chart in the margin, usually at the top and bottom. On NOAA chart 18421, see the top right and bottom left. Also very helpful are the parallels of latitude, because one minute of latitude equals one nautical mile. Frequently it’s easier to work with the latitude scale along the side of the chart, rather than to use the scale at the very top or bottom.

Compass Rose

At several locations on charts, compass roses are printed, often in a shade of pink; compass roses help you connect the real world, the compass on the deck of your kayak, and your printed chart. A compass rose gives the cardinal directions (north, south, east, and west), aligned with the printed chart, with north at the top.

Compass roses contain an outer ring depicting true north and an inner ring indicating the adjustment for the local magnetic variation. Throughout the earth lie several massive iron ore deposits, which cause local variations that point compasses away from true north. The inner ring of the compass rose depicts the adjustment for the local magnetic variation. The center of the compass rose specifies the local numerical variation, usually in degrees and minutes, along with the reference year. Since the earth’s magnetism constantly changes in predictable directions, the chart will also list an annual change. For example, see NOAA chart 18421, which shows the compass rose on top of San Juan Island: VAR 17°45E’ with Annual Decrease of 11’.

Fig. 6-5 A compass rose

Since these changes in magnetic variation are very small and charts are updated regularly, they rarely affect kayaking navigation. Touring kayakers rarely use a compass with an adjusted variation to align with true readings; the inner magnetic rose is most commonly used.

Vessel Traffic Service Zones

In several regions within the United States, Canada, and several countries throughout the world, marine vessel traffic management schemes have been devised to reduce the likelihood of collisions. In the United States, VTS zones define the fairway where ships must transit. Marked in purple on nautical charts, VTS zones define a central separation zone with a lane for traffic in one direction on one side and a lane for traffic transiting in the opposite direction on the other side. Direction of traffic is always to the right of the separation zone.

Recreational vessels of all kinds, including kayaks, are required to give right-of-way to all commercial traffic, especially large vessels that must remain within the VTS zone. Kayakers are allowed to cross VTS zones and must do so at right angles as quickly as possible and without impeding large vessel traffic. For examples of VTS zones, see NOAA chart 18421 south of San Juan and Lopez Islands, as well as west of Lummi, Cypress, Fidalgo, and Whidbey Islands.

Fig. 6-6 Avoid collisions! You’re a lot smaller than a lot of other boats out there.

VTS control agencies maintain constant radio communications. You may contact them on your handheld VHF marine radio to learn about large vessel traffic in your area and to make them aware of your position and course. Check with your local Coast Guard station for the radio frequencies to contact.

Aids to Navigation

ATONs include all the buoy markers, navigational lights, bells, horns, and signs installed to help mariners navigate through waterways, protect shorelines and sensitive areas and avoid collisions. ATON locations are marked on nautical charts, along with their individual characteristics: its number; the type, such as buoy with color and number designation; the frequency and color of a flashing light; the sound interval of a horn; the existence of a bell; its elevation above sea level if the ATON is constructed on land; and any other unique feature. ATONs help kayakers figure out their position and maintain a heading.

The most common buoys are red and green, marking deep water channels. As large vessels sail into port, they will find red buoys on their starboard (right) side and green ones to port (left). These red and green buoys are numbered and correspondingly indicated on charts. Kayakers can use these buoys to find a position and avoid the deep water channels and large vessel shipping.

Abbreviations for all ATONs are listed in Chart Number 1. For example, the ATON on the western point of Hope Island in Skagit Bay, Washington, located at 48°34’42.13”N, 122°34’42.13”W, is described on NOAA chart 18421 as FL R 2.5s: These abbreviations mean it has a red light that flashes every 2.5 seconds.

Contour Lines and Shoreline Characteristics

On charts, curved contour lines join points that share a common elevation above sea level. Contour lines show hills, valleys, and the steepness of slopes. Elevations on contour are marked over the top of some lines. Contour lines that are closer together denote steep grades, while those farther apart indicate more gradual slopes.

Kayakers use chart contour lines to understand shore contours—shorelines with gradual slopes are friendlier places to land than cliffs that rise vertically from the water! Kayakers are particularly interested in the shoreline’s characteristics. Is it gently sloped and sandy for easy landing? Or is it steep, rocky, and completely inhospitable? Symbols for shoreline characteristics are also listed in Chart Number 1.

Landmarks

A wide variety of terrestrial landmarks, marked to assist mariners in navigation, are printed on charts. The location and elevation of hill and mountain peaks, points of land, and bays are clearly indicated, as well as those of distinctive architectural features, such as municipalities, piers, towers, and lighthouses. These great reference points are useful in following a heading and finding a position.

TAKING CHARTS ON THE WATER

Since most nautical charts are designed to be used by mariners who work at a chart table on their boat, they are often published in too large a format for kayakers. Yet carrying a nautical chart is fundamental to navigating any kayak trip that’s longer than a short paddle on a lake. Thus, you can often photocopy only the portion you need or cut the chart into more manageable sizes. Many kayakers purchase their nautical chart, and then use a blueprint photocopy machine to make a copy that they mark up and take on each trip. Because charts taken on trips get abused, keeping the original intact saves money. NOAA charts are in the public domain so there is no copyright restriction on reproduction.

More and more frequently, publishers are producing paddler-specific charts. These are usually scaled-down versions, often waterproof, of standard nautical charts that display features of interest to paddlers. Once your chart is sized to be managed during paddling, place it in a waterproof chart case that you can clip to your foredeck bungees or perimeter deck lines. Attach it in such a way that you can slide it closer for easier reading without having to detach it.

CHART SOURCES

Local kayak or marine shops or government agencies that produce nautical charts and other publications sell nautical charts. In the United States, NOAA produces the official nautical and navigation charts. For Canadian waterways, the Canadian Hydrographic Service produces fine navigational charts. (See Resources for direct government sources, usually through their website, of nautical charts and publications.)

TIDE AND CURRENT TABLES

Understanding the tide and current conditions will contribute to the safety and enjoyment of a kayak trip by allowing you to predict water levels, along with current direction and speed. These are all critical in planning and executing trips.

Tide and current tables are predictions of water levels and current velocities. Kayakers must know tide levels, to ensure that there will be adequate water depth through the planned course and that the currents will be manageable. Most kayakers prefer to paddle with the current, to make the trip less strenuous. If your normal kayaking speed is three knots, for instance, paddling into a current of greater velocity will be quite strenuous and perhaps not within your capacity.

As with any data that is presented as an average, actual tide and current conditions will deviate from the average, which kayakers must be prepared for. Also, all tide tables predict tidal levels and current velocities at the channel center, not where kayakers usually paddle. You must be prepared to adjust to significant differences at the shoreline, where you are more likely to be paddling.

WEB-BASED TIDE TABLES

On the internet, a wide variety of tidal height and current sites are available at a website (http://tbone.biol.sc.edu/tide/) hosted by the University of South Carolina. The website provides wonderful data for many locations throughout the world and hundreds in North America. With the web-based tide predictor, simply find your location (click on the name of the region of interest, then on the individual location you wish to predict) and enter the dates for which you seek a prediction. Locations are divided into two types: tides or currents.

The locations that list tides simply list the name of the location to be predicted. Click on these links to find the predicted high and low tidal height, as well as rise and set of the sun and moon. The locations that list currents at the end of the location name offer predictions for the times of slack tide and current velocities at maximum ebb and flood, along with sun- and moonrise and sun- and moonset. You can change the dates and date ranges to match those of your trip.

Web-based tide tables offer readily available data for hundreds of locations. However, it’s tough to take this type of tide table with you in your kayak.

DESKTOP TIDE TABLES

Desktop tide and current atlases, not only give tidal levels and current velocities, they also include maps that show current directions with a set of arrows. Atlases are great for planning but are too large to take with you in your kayak.

POCKET BOOKLET TIDE TABLES

Pocket booklet tide and current tables are another option for predicting kayaking conditions, and they do not require electrical power or an internet connection. They are very small and portable, although they are a little more complicated to use than web-based or desktop tide tables. Look for instructions for pocket tide tables in a booklet’s first few pages. Store them in your chart case or dry bag so they are readily accessible during your kayaking adventure.

Pocket booklets are divided into five major sections. Near the front of the booklet are weekly sunrise and sunset predictions, followed by sections for tidal differences at major prediction stations and then a long list of secondary local stations with adjustments from the major stations. These booklets end with major current prediction stations and secondary local stations with current differences from the major stations. The differences are the data that you add or subtract to the figures for a major station to get predictions for a local station.

Tidal levels list the times in hours and minutes and heights of the high and low water levels in feet. Tidal levels are listed by month, with one page per month, a row for each day, and columns for the high and low, as well as time of day predictions. The predicted high-highs and low-lows are printed in bold. The starting page for each major station is printed along the edge of the first page that addresses that station.

To find a tidal height at a major prediction station, open the booklet to the major station of interest; go to the page for the month of your planned trip, then to the row for the desired date. Read across the row for the day of the week and then the times and levels of the high and low tide predictions.

To find local or minor station predictions, first look at the tidal differences table near the front of the booklet. Find the local station of interest and read across the row to find the difference between the associated major station and that local station. A plus sign (+) indicates that the time is later than the associated major station and therefore should be added; a minus sign (−) indicates that the time is earlier than the associated major station and therefore subtracted. The associated major station is the first bold listing above your local station of interest. Once you know the differences at the local station, look up the major station and add or subtract the difference from the time and height.

HOW CURRENT TABLES ARE ORGANIZED

Current tables list the times in hours and minutes, maximum velocities (of the ebb, E, and flood, F) in nautical miles per hour, and times of slack. Like tidal levels, currents are listed by month, with one page per month, a row for each day, and columns for the time and velocity predictions. Also as with tidal predictions, the location of each major current station is printed along the edge of the first page. To find currents at a major prediction station, open the booklet to the major station of interest; go to the page for the month of your planned trip, then to the row for the desired date. Read across the row for the day of the week, times of slack, and times and velocities of the maximum current.

To find local or minor station predictions, first look at the current differences table near the front of the booklet. Find the local station of interest and read across the row to find the difference between it and the associated major station. The minimum time before flood and ebb is the slack difference between the local station and major station, listed in hours (H) and minutes (M). A plus sign (+) indicates that the time is later than the associated major station and therefore should be added; a minus sign (−) indicates that the time is earlier than the associated major station and therefore should be subtracted. The speed ratio is a multiplier: Multiply the flood or ebb velocity by the listed ratio.

The associated major site is the first bold listing above your local station of interest. Once you know the differences at the local station, look up the major station (as described above), add or subtract the difference from the time and multiply the velocity by the speed ratio.

NAVIGATION TOOLS

Fundamental navigation tools are divided into two categories: those used for onshore planning and those used on the water. Look for these tools at your local kayak shop or at a marine supply store. To plan, you’ll need a good, detailed set of nautical charts that cover your entire planned route, a tide and current table (see the preceding sections), a parallel ruler, a divider, and a mechanical pencil.

Tools that you can take on the water with you include nautical charts, a chart case, a clear ruler, a mechanical grease pencil, a compass, a Global Positioning System (GPS) receiver, and a waterproof marine VHF radio. All the tools you will take with you should be as small as possible, unobtrusive, reliable, and waterproof. Store them securely, but keep them readily accessible.

PARALLEL RULER

A parallel ruler designed to be used with a nautical chart placed on a table is a valuable tool for planning kayak trips. A parallel ruler is composed of two parallel straight edges that are held parallel by a hinged arm mounted close to each end. When the straight edges are side by side, the hinged arms separate them by a few inches, which allows them to be moved forward and backward, while remaining parallel. A parallel ruler helps you carry the orientation of a printed reference line to any position on a nautical chart or from a marked course to the chart’s compass rose to determine a course bearing (the direction to any object).

Fig. 6-7 Walking a parallel ruler across a chart to set course

Parallel rulers let you maintain a consistent directional angle on the chart while “walking” the ruler across the chart. To walk the parallel ruler, first firmly align one side of it along a chart reference line or course of interest, then hinge the second side to an open position away from the first side. Next, hold the second side firmly in place, and then hinge the first side next to the second. Again, switch to hold the first side firmly in place, and hinge the second side open. By repeating this process, you can walk the ruler across the chart while maintaining any directional angle: horizontal to find the latitude at one side of the chart, vertical to find a longitude at the top or bottom of the chart, or at the angle of a course to the nearest compass rose to find a course bearing.

If the parallel ruler slips, simply start over. With practice kayakers learn to be very tactical about where to start the parallel ruler position and how to maintain a constant directional angle or orientation on the chart to walk the parallel ruler across the chart with a minimum of steps.

DIVIDER

A divider, used to measure distance along a course, is composed of two long, narrow arms hinged at one end. You use the sharp spikes attached to the free ends of the divider to stick them into your chart. Using the chart’s longitude scale along the side or the chart bar scale at the top or bottom, set the distance between the tips of the spike ends on the two arms of the divider at some reference distance, usually a half or full nautical mile. Once you have determined a course and marked it on the chart, place the divider at one end and then walk it along the course to determine its distance.

Most dividers have retractable spikes. When you prepare to use a divider, loosen the thumb screws that hold the spikes in place, slide the spikes out about halfway, and then tighten the set thumb screw. Dividers are easier to use if the spikes protrude evenly. The divider spikes are very sharp—take care handling them. You would not want to use them, for instance, on your finest mahogany dining room table. Use a large table with a hard surface, covered with some type of padding to protect the table surface but firm enough to let you mark the chart with your pencil. To keep the spikes in place, you do not need to push them aggressively through the chart, but place them gently. Most divider spikes can be loosened and slid up into the divider arms for safety while stored.

To walk the divider along a course line to determine its distance, stick one spike at the course’s starting point and the second spike on the marked course line on your chart. Then hold the second point in place on the marked course, lift the first spike, and pivot it around to the marked course line on the opposite side of the second spike. Since the divider is set at a specific distance, usually a half or full nautical mile, count the number of times you walk the divider along the course to calculate its distance.

Fig. 6-8 Walking dividers across a chart a. Set the divider to a standard distance (1 nautical mile for example) at either the latitude (shown) or chart bar scale; b. Walk the divider along the marked course, counting the number of whole nautical miles; c. Adjust the divider to measure any remainder distance; d. Move the divider to the chart bar scale (shown) or latitude to determine the remainder distance. Add that amount to the number of whole nautical miles to establish the total distance of your course.

The course lines are rarely in half or full nautical mile increments. Once you have measured the full increments, you need to determine the remainder of the distance. Stop walking the divider at the last even increment at the end of the course line, then pivot the divider to line up the free spike beyond the line’s end. Then squeeze the free end toward the fixed end until the free end is in position at the end of the course line. Now lift the entire divider and place the spikes on the chart’s bar scale to measure the remaining distance. Add this remainder to the full incremental measurement to find the full length. Finally, add all the course line segments together to find the total.

CHART CASE

Before embarking on a kayak trip, place the chart showing your immediate area in a waterproof chart case that is specifically designed to be mounted on the front deck right in front of the cockpit, where you can easily see it while paddling. Take your protected chart on the water with you. If your adventure takes you beyond the boundaries of the chart covering your immediate area, you can store additional charts in a waterproof container inside your kayak.

Tuck a clear ruler into your chart case to let you quickly measure distance and establish your position. Attach a mechanical grease pencil (paper-wrapped grease pencils dissolve when they get wet—and they will get wet) to your chart case with a string, and store the pencil under a deck bungee. Use it to make notes on your chart case or on the deck of your kayak; after you land, you can transfer your notes to a more permanent place, such as a notebook, before you clean off the grease pencil marks. A little cleaner makes quick work of cleaning off old grease pencil marks.

COMPASS

When you are kayaking, a magnetic compass is key for matching what you see on your nautical chart with the surrounding topography. Keep your compass readily visible in virtually any conditions. A deck-mounted compass designed specifically for touring kayaks leaves your hands free to paddle. Some paddlers also use a handheld hiking compass because it’s a quick way to take a bearing off visual references and find a position without turning the kayak. The latter also makes a great straight edge to mark your chart case with your grease pencil and as a protractor to mark your course. However, a deck-mounted compass, because your hands are free and it is securely fixed to the deck, is more useful for following a course.

Standard deck-mounted compasses are domed, with a 2.75-inch (7-centimeter) reading dial for easier viewing. Inside the dome, the compass card rides on a center pivot and is suspended within a thick liquid that dampens movement. The compass card is marked with headings from 0 degrees to 360 degrees. When the compass is mounted near the bow, it’s important for it to be large and have large numerals as well. The compass card is magnetized; 0 degrees always points to magnetic north no matter which direction the kayak points.

Many manufacturers design a compass mount on the deck of their kayaks, either level or sloped toward the paddler. For other kayaks you must install a mounting plate on the deck and then attach the compass to it. The compass must be mounted exactly on the deck’s centerline, because positioning it off the centerline will result in skewed visual references. Mount your compass toward the bow, usually just forward or aft of the front hatch, so that you can look at your compass and see the bow of your kayak and its position relative to the terrain, especially targeted landmarks. If the compass is too close to the cockpit, your eyes focus at too low an angle to see the bow and landmarks at the same time. If it’s too far away you will have a tough time reading the numerals.

GPS RECEIVER AND RADIO

Additionally, a GPS receiver is very helpful. Depending on the model, a GPS receiver can display your position coordinates, position on an electronic map, speed, and heading. You can also store this data in its memory to review it or download it to a computer later. And last, take a waterproof, handheld marine VHF radio that fits in your life jacket pocket. A radio is absolutely necessary for hearing updates about marine weather conditions, contacting vessel traffic management services, learning of large vessel traffic in your area, and contacting members of your group or other vessels in your area, as well as rescue agencies during an emergency.

FINDING LOCATION COORDINATES

With a nautical chart, a parallel ruler, a pencil, and a divider, you are now ready to find a location’s coordinates. When you’re planning a trip, it’s often helpful to know the coordinates of your destination and intermediate checkpoints along the way, especially if you use a GPS receiver. Once you have determined your coordinates, mark them on the chart for future reference. Locations are fixed points on the earth, described by chart coordinates.

Mariners use the numerical grid system of latitude and longitude printed along the chart margins to specify a location. To determine coordinates for a location on the chart, determine the latitude by taking a horizontal reference from the location to the nearest side of the chart, and then to find the longitude, take a vertical reference from the location to the top or bottom (whichever is closest) of the chart.

WITH A PARALLEL RULER

Using a parallel ruler helps ensure that the location coordinates are accurate, based on horizontal and vertical grid in the chart margins. Latitude and longitude gridlines printed at key points on the chart, often at even minutes of latitude and longitude, are the reference starting points for the parallel ruler.

To find the latitude, establish your parallel ruler in a horizontal position. Place one side of your ruler horizontally along the latitude reference line closest to your point of interest, and hold that side firmly against the chart. Then take the second parallel straight edge and hinge it toward your point of interest. If the second one can reach between the gridline and your point of interest, as well as between your point of interest and the scale at the side of the chart, hold the ruler in place, read the coordinate (if it helps in reading the scale, make a light pencil mark on the scale where the ruler crosses it), and make a note of the latitude coordinate.

Fig. 6-9 Find a position

If in its fully open position, hinged as far apart as possible, the parallel ruler does not reach from the closest reference gridline to your point of interest, walk the ruler from the gridline to your point of interest, while maintaining a horizontal orientation. If, when the ruler is aligned with your point of interest, it also reaches the reference scale in the closest margin, make a note of the coordinate.

If, when aligned with your point of interest, the ruler does not reach the scale at the margin of the chart, walk the ruler into position aligned with your point of interest to establish a horizontal reference at your point. Make a small mark on the chart along the edge of the ruler, as close to the side of the chart as possible. Then walk the parallel ruler toward the chart’s edge and then back into alignment with the mark you just made. Repeat this process, making a reference mark and walking the parallel ruler toward the scale, until you reach the scale.

Use the same procedure to find the longitude coordinate, except orient the ruler vertically rather than horizontally.

With a nautical chart, a parallel ruler, and a pencil, you can practice finding coordinates. The exercises in this chapter use NOAA chart 18421 for Jones Island but the skills you are practicing are universally applicable. This island, part of the Washington State Parks system, is a great kayaking destination just west of Orcas Island, in the San Juan Islands archipelago. The north side of Jones Island has a protected bay with a very nice Washington State Parks campground; Washington Water Trails Association maintains a second, much smaller, more intimate, and remote campsite on the island’s northwest side.

EXERCISE 1: FIND COORDINATES ON JONES ISLAND

Practice this exercise to find the coordinates of the northwestern tip of Jones Island.

A. FIND LATITUDE

Align your parallel ruler horizontally along the parallel of latitude line just north of Jones Island (48°40′N). Walk the ruler so that it aligns with both the northwestern tip of Jones Island and the scale at the left. My parallel ruler (14⅞″, or 37.7 mm, in length) spans this distance without my having to walk it. Make a small mark on the scale and note the coordinates on your chart. I measure the latitude as 48°37.2′N.

B. FIND LONGITUDE

In this case, my parallel ruler does not reach from Jones Island to either scale at the top or bottom of the chart; since the bottom is closer, I’ll head that direction. Align your parallel ruler vertically along the meridian of longitude line east of Jones Island (123°0’W). Walk the parallel ruler so that it aligns with the northwestern tip of Jones Island, and mark the chart on the same side of the parallel ruler as a reference. My reference mark is north and slightly west of the Green No. 1 buoy (with a light that flashes every six seconds) that marks the northern edge of Hein Bank.

Next, continue to walk the parallel ruler toward the bottom of the chart until one edge spans the distance between the reference mark you just made and the scale at the bottom. Make a small mark on the scale and note the coordinates on your chart. I measure the longitude as 123°2.9’W.

C. NAME THE COORDINATES

The coordinates for the northwest point of Jones Island are 48°37.2’N, 123°2.9’W.

EXERCISE 2: FIND COORDINATES IN REID HARBOR

Stuart Island lies west of Jones Island and north of San Juan Island. A long, narrow bay, Reid Harbor splits Stuart generally east–west. Portions of Stuart are also a Washington State Park with a very nice campground, along with a Washington Water Trails Association campsite at the harbor’s western end. Find the coordinates for the latter.

The coordinates for the western end of Reid Harbor are 48°40.6’N, 123°12.3’W.

PLOTTING A COURSE

Once you have found coordinates for your points of interest and turns, the next steps are to mark a course and determine the course bearings and distance. Plotting a course connects the dots between where you start and your destination. To plot a course, decide your route, mark the segments on the chart, and then find the heading and distance of each segment.

DETERMINE THE ROUTE

Since a trip rarely involves paddling in a straight line the entire distance, think of routes as segments connected by turns. Deviations from a straight course help you avoid points of land, dangerous reefs, and restricted areas; cross traffic lanes at 90-degree angles; and minimize exposure to undesirable areas. At times, these various navigational goals conflict—use your best judgment to determine your safest route.

To accommodate the route’s deviations from a straight line, divide it into segments. To plot your course, first mark your chart with a small dot at each turn, and then use your straight edge to connect the dots and create course segments. Once your course is plotted on your chart, you can use a parallel ruler to determine the heading of each segment and a divider to determine each segment’s distance.

FIND HEADINGS

With your course plotted, you can now use your parallel ruler to determine your course headings. Lay your ruler’s straight edge along the first course segment to determine its heading. Walk the parallel ruler to the closest compass rose, so that one of the ruler’s straight edges crosses the plus sign in the center of the rose. Then point your pencil in the direction of your route, and lightly mark in pencil where the straight edge that crosses the plus sign crosses the inner (magnetic) ring of the compass rose. Read this heading off the compass rose, and then write it next to your course line. If your trip involves multiple segments—most do—repeat this process to determine each segment’s heading.

EXERCISE 3: MARK THE COURSE FROM JONES ISLAND TO REID HARBOR AND FIND THE HEADINGS

In Exercises 1 and 2, you found the coordinates for Jones Island and Reid Harbor on Stuart Island. Now you will mark this course and find its headings.

A. MARK THE COURSE

A straight line from the northwestern tip of Jones Island to Reid Harbor on Stuart Island would bisect Cactus Island as well as several smaller islands and reefs, so to go from one to the other, you have to make a series of turns, with segments in between. Mark the start just to the north of the northwest point of Jones Island. Now mark turn dots north of the eastern point of Speiden Island, in the mouth of Reid Harbor, and for a jog into Reid Harbor. Then mark the finish at the western end of Reid Harbor. Connect these dots to create your course segments.

Speiden Island is a magnificent, privately owned island over which herds of imported exotic animals roam. If you take this trip that you’re plotting, enjoy the views of Speiden from a distance.

B. FIND THE HEADINGS

To find your headings, lay your parallel ruler next to the course line you just drew between Jones and Speiden Islands. Now walk the parallel ruler to the nearest compass rose (the one on top of San Juan Island) so that one of the straight edges is aligned with the center plus sign. Mark the place where the same straight edge crosses the inner compass rose in your direction of travel to determine your heading. Write the heading next to this first course segment. It should be about 270°. Although your headings may not exactly match this example, because it’s unlikely that any two people will draw the exact same lines—they should be close.

Follow the same process for the next three course segments. You don’t really need a heading to navigate into Reid Harbor, but the exercise is still valid for practice. Your headings should be close to 282°, 322°, and 280°, respectively.

EXERCISE 4: MARK A COURSE FROM LOPEZ ISLAND TO JAMES ISLAND AND FIND THE HEADINGS

Both Spencer Spit on Lopez Island and James Island offer camping as part of the Washington State Parks system. Additionally, Washington Water Trails Association manages campsites, dedicated to camping by those using human-powered craft, at both locations. Plot a course with three segments from the eastern point of Spencer Spit to the north point of James Island.

A. MARK THE COURSE

The course marked here starts at Spencer Spit and passes just south of Frost Island across to Decatur Island, then goes along the north side of Decatur, and finally turns right at Fauntleroy Point to the northern point of James Island.

B. FIND THE HEADINGS

Since the compass rose on top of San Juan Island is the closest, use it. The headings you find should be close to 118°, 86°, and 120°, respectively.

FIND DISTANCES

The final component of route planning is to determine the distances of each course segment. Use your divider. From the latitude scale at the side of your nautical chart, or from the distance bar scale at the top or bottom of the chart, spread the divider and set it to one nautical mile. Then place one end of the divider at the start of the course line you marked on your chart and walk the divider along this course line.

You rarely end up with an even number of nautical miles. To measure the left over distance, keep the last divider end in place (fixed end) and squeeze the free end closer to the fixed end until the free end is at your line’s end. Now go back to your scale and measure the remaining distance. Finish by marking the total distance next to your course line. If your trip involves multiple segments, calculate the distance for each segment and mark those on your chart as well.

EXERCISE 5: FIND THE COURSE DISTANCE FROM JONES ISLAND TO REID HARBOR

Now you can determine the distance of your course that you marked on your chart in Exercise 3, from Jones Island to Reid Harbor on Stuart Island. Spread your divider to one nautical mile, referencing either the latitude scale at the side of your chart or the distance scale at the top or bottom of the chart.

A. MEASURE THE FIRST COURSE SEGMENT

Place one spike of your divider at the northwest tip of Jones Island. Walk the divider along the course line, counting the number of “steps.” There should be two “steps” and a small remainder. To measure the remainder, leave the spike from the last step in place (fixed end), then squeeze the free end of the divider toward the fixed end so that the other spike is at the endpoint of the course segment. Now lift the divider and place it on the scale to measure the distance between its ends; this is the distance of the small remainder. The remainder distance measured here is 0.3 nautical mile, making that segment’s total distance 2.3 nautical miles (nm).

B. MEASURE THE OTHER THREE COURSE SEGMENTS

Repeat this process for the other three course segments. The distances measured here are 3.3 nm from along Speiden Island to the mouth of Reid Harbor, 0.3 nm to jog into Reid Harbor, and 1.2 nm for the length of the harbor to the campground.

C. ADD THE DISTANCE OF ALL THE COURSE SEGMENTS

Adding all these segments together results in a total trip length of 7.1 nm.

EXERCISE 6: FIND THE COURSE DISTANCE FROM LOPEZ ISLAND TO JAMES ISLAND

Determine the distance of each course segment from Spencer Spit on Lopez Island to James Island, which you marked in Exercise 4. Add up each segment’s total distance and mark it on your chart.

The measurements found here are 1 nm from Spencer Spit to a point just northwest of Decatur Island, 1.8 nm along the north side of Decatur Island, and 0.7 nm from Fauntleroy Point on the northeast side of Decatur Island to the northern tip of James Island. The total trip length is 3.5 nm.

FOLLOWING A COURSE

One of the most powerful navigational tools kayakers can use to maintain a high level of safety and remain on course is situational awareness—knowing your position in the world and the surrounding references and landmarks, as well as the potential environmental risks and opportunities for fun. Kayakers use all available references, including landmarks, ATONs, nautical charts, and compasses, to follow their course.

USE PILOTING AND DEAD RECKONING

On the water, kayakers combine the navigation skills of piloting and dead reckoning to follow a planned route and reach their destination. Piloting is the skill of following visual landmarks and references, such as ATONs and landmarks, to determine a position and follow your route. Dead reckoning is the navigational skill of following a course, which requires carrying a nautical chart as a reference and understanding the speed and distance you have traveled to approximate your position. By combining piloting and dead reckoning, kayakers can match up the real world with their nautical chart to specify their position.

USE NATURAL RANGES

Oncoming wind or currents often push kayaks sideways. Trying to keep the kayak pointed at a single landmark will result in a heading change as the kayak is pushed to the side by the wind or current. You will have to paddle farther because your course will loop. To avoid swinging to the side, kayakers use a technique that incorporates natural ranges to hold a straight course. A natural range involves setting up two fixed landmarks that are in line with your desired course a considerable distance ahead. Keeping these range landmarks in line with each other will help keep you on your course.

If your kayak is pushed to the right, the range landmark closest to you will appear to move to the left. If your kayak is pushed to the left, the closest range marker will appear to move to the right. To compensate, change your heading toward the closest range landmark until the two ranges are again aligned. Keeping these range landmarks in line will help you stay on course.

To stay in line with this natural range, you may need to yaw your kayak, as explained in chapter 5. When paddling with yaw, your bearing (the direction your kayak is pointed) will differ from your heading (the direction of your travel toward your target).

BUILD IN ERROR

To increase the level of safety on a trip, build error into following your course. For example, if during a crossing, wind or current may push you away from your target landing and into undesirable conditions, overcompensate in the direction of a safe landing, even if it means paddling a little extra.

USING A COMPASS

Your compass is critical for following a course, identifying landmarks, and finding a position. With practice all these skills become automatic and an enjoyable part of your kayaking experience.

HOW TO READ IT

The numbers on a kayak compass are configured so that the direction in which the kayak is pointed (heading) faces the kayaker. The lubber line, or reference line printed on the compass globe that faces the paddler, indicates the kayak heading. For example, when the compass card is aligned with the lubber line at 90 degrees, the kayak is pointed directly toward magnetic east. As you turn your boat, the inner compass card remains stationary and the kayak and globe (with the lubber line) pivots beneath.

AVOID INTERFERENCE

Take care when packing your kayak to avoid false readings. Many metals that are magnetically attractive to a compass can cause it to deviate from the magnetic direction of that geographic region. Check items that you carry with you by holding them near your compass and seeing if the readings change. If an object affects your compass, pack it at least one yard (meter) away from your compass, preferably aft of the cockpit. Don’t pack the dutch oven under the front deck!

FOLLOW A HEADING

To follow a heading, choose a compass point (the numerical degree printed on the compass card) that represents your desired direction of travel, align the compass card point to the lubber line, and maintain that alignment while you paddle. When you paddle a kayak, the sea moves you from side to side. It is virtually impossible to keep the compass card point and lubber line aligned, especially in sloppy seas that push the bow back and forth and up and down on waves in a circular fashion. Aim for a compass point alignment within 5 degrees on either side of the lubber line.

ADJUST YOUR HEADING

Your nautical chart, with its printed landmarks and course line and information (headings and distance) you added while you planned your trip, serves as solid reference. However, because kayakers rarely turn exactly where they planned to, they rarely follow the exact headings they prepared. Once you are at an approximate turning point, take a bearing for your next turn and follow that.

DETERMINE YOUR POSITION

Your compass is also critical for determining your position on the water. Although taking bearings off landmarks and marking your chart is effective, it is an imprecise exercise even in a larger and more stable yacht—don’t expect absolute precision. Unlike a fixed location with fixed coordinates, during the course of your paddling adventure, your position is constantly changing.

To determine your position on the water, you’ll need your nautical chart stored in a waterproof chart case, a compass, and a grease pencil. Compare your chart to the surrounding waterways, and identify three landmarks that are fairly evenly distributed around you in a circle (360 degrees).

With a Handheld Compass

With your handheld compass, take a bearing for the first landmark, and note it on your chart case with your grease pencil. Then use your handheld compass like a protractor by turning the dial to align the bearing with the compass’s reference line. Then align the north line printed on the base of the compass dial with the chart gridline nearest to your first landmark. Keep the compass at the same angle to the best of your ability, then slide the compass so that an edge aligns with the landmark. Use the compass edge to draw a line with your grease pencil on your chart case from the landmark toward your predicted position.

Repeat this process for the other two landmarks you chose. The grease pencil lines on your chart will probably not cross each other at a single point, but they should form a triangle. Navigators call this triangle a cocked hat, within which lies your kayak’s position. Remember that the chart’s gridlines are aligned to true north. It’s much easier to adjust the variation on your handheld compass and keep all readings true.

With a Deck-Mounted Compass

To use your deck-mounted compass to determine your position on the water, you will need a straight edge. Pivot your kayak to point directly at the landmark, and take your bearing using your deck-mounted compass. Then align your straight edge with the nearest compass rose on the chart at that bearing and slide the straight edge to your landmark, keeping a constant angle relative to north. Draw a grease pencil line as described above, and repeat the process for the other two landmarks, to create another cocked hat.

PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER

To calculate your expected trip time, you must understand your average paddling speed, calculate your course segment lengths, and adjust for expected current and wind. Prepare these calculations, called speed-time-distance predictions, for each course segment, and then add them to find your total expected trip length and predicted arrival time.

To make speed-time-distance calculations, you must know your average cruising speed, which will be different for an empty kayak versus a kayak fully loaded with camping gear. To determine your fully loaded cruising speed, load your kayak as if for a trip, identify a segment of one nautical mile on your chart, and time yourself paddling back and forth a few times until you have a sense of your speed. You can also use a GPS receiver because it measures speed all the time. Make sure you paddle enough to become fatigued, as you would be during the course of a day’s paddle; don’t simply measure your speed while you are fast and fresh.

Once you know your paddling speed, divide it into each measured course segment from your chart to calculate how long each segment will take. Then adjust for the effect of wind and current on your speed. For example if you are in a two-nautical-miles-per-hour (knot) following current, you can add speed to your forward progress. Headwinds, on the other hand, would reduce your speed. These adjustments are approximations at best, but are better than not making any at all. With experience you will learn how currents and winds affect your speed, and your adjustments will become more and more accurate.

Your goal is to establish a trip plan that is within your safe capability and comfort level, not to plan exactly when you will land. Once you have adjusted times for each segment, add them all up to determine the duration of the day’s trip. Then add up all the days’ times to determine your total trip duration. On the water, you will make additional adjustments because of actual conditions that influence your speed.

USING ELECTRONIC NAVIGATIONAL AIDS

With the advent of the GPS receiver and other technologies, a wide variety of electronic navigational aids are available. A standard GPS receiver provides data on kayaking speed, traces the course of your route, and provides coordinates. Other GPS devices can provide the distance and time to a destination, elapsed time, your heart rate, an interface for downloading data to a computer, and even a feature for sending an email at the end of the day to friends and family describing your condition during a multiday trip. To get the most from your electronic devices, pore through the extensive instructions included with them.

Secluded and sheltered beaches offer great places to rest, lunch, and camp.

CHAPTER 7

Trips and Camping

Sea kayaks are the perfect vehicle for camping: they carry your gear, allowing you to venture farther afield than you can on foot and to explore beautiful marine destinations. Camping is really where sea kayaking shines. Feeling the boat glide across the water, exerting yourself physically and getting exercise, sharing a day outdoors with friends: All these benefits come together in multiday sea kayaking camping trips, which also let you explore beautiful destinations and find adventure.

One of life’s greatest pleasures is sitting on a beach next to your tent after a long day’s paddle. You feel fatigued after a good day of exercise, as you reflect on dramatic and diverse coastlines that played like a movie as you paddled by, celebrate paddling with wildlife, and perhaps see snowcapped peaks in the distance. After setting up camp and eating a satisfying dinner, you can just relax. The sea and sky shimmer before you in the waning sunlight, first pale gold, then a burst of brilliant orange and red, before fading into an iridescent indigo. Stars appear, first a few at a time, and then an explosion of points of light that fill the sky. It’s very easy to be in this moment, and it’s a delight to share it with friends.

PREPARING FOR A CAMPING TRIP

Experiencing moments like these is the result of careful planning and preparation (see chapter 6). The farther afield and away from rescue resources you paddle, the more carefully and completely you must plan. Start by acquiring and carrying a complete set of charts to cover your route, then work out the navigation completely, learn which beaches are safe for landing and launching, and know your daily paddling distances and destinations.

Once you have planned your route, it’s time to determine the gear, food, and water you’ll need to complete your trip comfortably and safely—then add enough of everything for a margin of safety. A good rule of thumb is to add one complete meal’s worth of food and water for each day of your trip.

Next you’ll need to plan how you will store all your gear in your kayak. Practice loading and unloading your kayak at home and on day trips to get a feel for how everything fits inside your boat and how your kayak handles when it’s fully loaded. Then practice setting up your tent or shelter, organizing your camp, lighting your stove, and cooking meals on short preparatory trips, such as an overnighter. Gradually work up to longer, more complex outings.

SEA KAYAK CAMPING VERSUS BACKPACKING

Camping from a sea kayak is very similar to backpacking, and if you backpack, much of your backpacking gear will work well for sea kayak camping. As with backpacking, there’s a premium on effective, lightweight gear that packs into a small space. While it’s important to bring essentials and adequate supplies, it’s also important to balance choices with moderation and efficiency.

However, a sea kayak has considerably more storage space than a backpack, so the constraints of storage dimensions are not nearly as big an issue. The boat carries your gear, so it’s literally off your back. Even so, your gear will add to the weight of your kayak and require daily organization. Just as in backpacking, you will pack and unpack much of your gear each day (especially when camping in areas with wildlife) and need to keep it organized within your camp. But with a sea kayak, you will also move your gear between your kayak at the water’s edge and your campsite.

PADDLING A LOADED SEA KAYAK

Fully loaded kayaks, because of their greater mass, are generally less reactive than unloaded boats. Loaded kayaks require you to expend more effort to accelerate, respond to steering strokes, and stop. Kayakers learning to paddle a heavier, loaded boat can practice with weight, often bags of sand, in the boat.

Wind affects a loaded kayak less, both because of the kayak’s greater mass and also because it sits lower in the water and has less freeboard. A loaded kayak doesn’t lift over swells and waves as readily as a lighter boat does. Instead, it punches through the peaks of waves and swells, resulting in a wetter ride. Heavier kayaks flow with currents more and are more difficult to eddy out of a current. When maneuvering a loaded kayak in an eddy, stick the bow into it as high as possible, plant the paddle solidly in it, and use a good solid edge turn to pull the loaded kayak in.

SELECTING GEAR

The camping gear described here is organized for long, multiday trips, up to about 30 days. For shorter trips, simply scale back the amount of gear, clothes, food, and water. Otherwise, most of the camping gear you need is the same for both long and short trips. Choose your gear based on what you need, the level of comfort you desire, and what fits into your kayak, and then add some as backup.

Sufficient clothing, both for paddling and at camp, is critical to protect you from the elements. Some type of sleeping shelter—a bivy sack, a tent, or just a sleeping bag in warm climates—will help you get a good night’s rest. An inflatable sleeping pad can be bulky and take up a great deal of storage space, but it helps you sleep more comfortably. A kitchen shelter may not be entirely necessary, but it protects you from the elements while you prepare and eat meals and provides cover for time in camp outside your tent. It also means your food preparation location is away from where you sleep. You don’t want the smell of food to attract wildlife to your sleeping area! Adequate food to fuel your daily paddling exercise, along with some extra for delays, is a must. Extra days’ worth of food is a key part of your backup plan, in case you need to wait out an unexpected storm.

Take what you need, make yourself reasonably comfortable, be prepared with your backup plan. Practice working with your equipment at home several times before you take it into the field so that you become skilled at assembling and using it. (See appendix for recommended gear lists.)

CLOTHING

Your clothing choices depend on the length of your trip and the conditions you expect. The approach of layering clothing (see chapter 1) applies to both paddling and camping wear. If your trip is a short one, overnight or a weekend, you can probably get by with two sets of base layer paddling clothes and one set of insulating layers if there’s a possibility of inclement weather. Two sets of base layer camp clothes, with an insulating and outer layer, is adequate for most short trips and weather conditions. For longer trips, bring enough extra to allow for at least two complete changes. Pack all clothing into dry bags and then store them inside your bow or stern hatch.

SLEEPING BAG AND PAD

A small lightweight sleeping bag is a must on camping trips for warmth and comfort, as well as for emergency warming. Make sure your bag is rated below the coldest temperatures you expect to encounter, in case the temperature drops unexpectedly, and especially if you sleep cold. Sleeping bags made with synthetic fill keep you warm even if they get wet, while down does not. You never know when your sleeping bag might get wet. If you go camping enough, there likely will be a time when you will drop your sleeping bag into a puddle, your tent will fail, or you will spill your water bottle on your bag.

An inflatable sleeping pad will help you sleep better, and a full-length one is an enjoyable luxury. It will help you recover more effectively for the next day’s paddle. While it doesn’t roll up as tightly as you may want for backpacking, it fits fine inside a kayak’s hatch. A dry bag full of clothes and wrapped in a fleece jacket makes a great pillow.

SHELTER

Effective overnight shelter should provide you with enough comfort to recover from the day’s exertions and prepare for the next. Shelter at night and during inclement weather is critical to a safe and enjoyable trip. In warm, pleasant conditions, you can simply sleep out under the stars in a sleeping bag, at a minimum. A tarp constructed into a bivouac makes a great basic cover. For colder weather, use a bivy sack, and for the worst conditions, take a tent.

A lightweight tarp that provides minimal protection works well for mild weather. Arrange the tarp in thirds with one-third on the ground as a floor and the other two-thirds forming sloped tentlike walls. One of the sloped walls should face the prevailing wind.

Fig. 7-1 A kayaking camp

For quick overnight trips, a bivy sack works well. A double bivy sack lets you put your sleeping bag and gear inside to protect them from the elements. Since a bivy sack has no fly and is not waterproof, you might erect a small shelter, such as a bivouac tarp or a rain fly, above the bivy sack.

For longer trips, a tent, a space you can get inside and move around in, is more comfortable and helps you recover from the day’s paddling. On really nasty days when you stay off the water, the tent provides a small shelter where you can read and relax without feeling claustrophobic. At busier campsites, a tent also allows some privacy for changing clothes and taking personal time.

A small one-person tent with a rain fly is ideal if you’re on your own. A small tent breaks down easily, fits in a kayak well, and is quick and easy to set up. If you’re with other people, several two-person tents, with kayakers splitting the parts between their boats, are easier to stow than one large tent, whose parts are often too large to fit easily into a kayak. Also, smaller shelters with fewer people allow personal and private time that larger tents do not afford.

KITCHEN SHELTER

A larger tarp erected as a roof makes an excellent kitchen shelter and an appealing structure where the group can gather. A covered outdoor kitchen area, protected from all but the most extreme conditions, provides cover from wind and rain while you are cooking, eating, and socializing. Commercially available tarps that work great as kitchen shelters usually consist of a lightweight waterproof fabric that can be erected with a slope to deflect wind and shed rain.

STOVE AND COOKWARE

A typical sea kayak camping kitchen consists of a backpacking-type stove and fuel bottles, a water-filtration system, a cooking pot, and eating utensils. This entire setup, plus a kitchen shelter and a couple of spice containers, can fit in one medium-sized dry bag. Since fuel canisters made of composite material, such as fiberglass, are waterproof and don’t corrode, they don’t need to be stored in dry bags. Pack these last so that you can fit them easily in the open spaces between larger items. Since they don’t contain metal, they shouldn’t affect your compass either.

WATER

Drinking water is critical to energy metabolism, body cooling, and endurance. When you drink water, you help to maintain your plasma volume, thereby keeping your blood pressure and blood flow consistent for delivering nutrients and oxygen to muscles and organs, as well as removing waste. Plan to consume at least six quarts (liters) of liquid per day during exercise, such as sea kayaking. Include all liquids (except alcohol, which exacerbates dehydration), hot or cold, whether you drink it as part of a meal or independently, in this six-quart (liter) total.

The rate at which you drink water factors in as well. If you drink a few sips at a time while paddling, your body has a chance to absorb and process the liquid. In contrast, if you drink a lot all at once, your body signals your kidneys to accumulate and expel the liquid. Most often this means paddling uncomfortably until you can find a place to land and urinate, expelling most of the liquid you just consumed.

The volume of water you need to carry will depend on what kind of water resupply access you will have each day. Since water weighs more than eight pounds per gallon (or more than one kilogram per liter), carrying more water quickly adds to your boat weight. In regions with streams, rivers, and creeks, you don’t need to carry as much water, while in drier environs, it becomes critical to carry more water. It’s a good idea to carry a minimum of six liters, or a oneday supply, on all overnight trips. During your planning process, if you can identify locations for water resupply at least once each day, then carrying six liters should work just fine. Fewer resupply locations means that you must carry more water.

I once planned to camp at a state park that said on both its website and in its recorded telephone information that well water was available. But when I arrived on the island, the water had been turned off for the season. Fortunately friendly folks in a sailing yacht gave me water to replace my backup supply.

If you will be getting your drinking water from watercourses, you must purify it, whether by filtering it, using iodine tablets, or boiling it. Iodine tablets are effective water-filtration agents, although the taste leaves something to be desired. Vigorously boiling water can also be effective, although this approach consumes a considerable amount of fuel. As long as you have access to a freshwater source, filtering water provides a virtually unlimited supply of clear water without the nasty taste added by iodine tablets. Many water-filtration devices use charcoal as a filtering medium. Whatever water-purification system you choose, fully understand it and practice filtering at home.

PLANNING FOOD

The fundamental goal of eating during a sea kayaking trip is to provide nutrition for refueling from the day’s exertions and to prepare for the next day’s paddling. Plan meals that are appetizing and easy to organize and prepare so that, even when you are very tired, you will eat a nutritious meal. Practice preparing meals at home and using your camp cooking equipment to prepare an actual meal.

Meal cleanup, especially if you use one pot and spoon, can be as simple as rubbing sand over the surfaces and rinsing them with seawater. The next time you boil water, rinse the utensils to kill harmful organisms. This dishwashing method conserves soap, freshwater, and fuel and it minimizes environmental impact.

When you plan your trip, include hot meals each day. They help you recover body heat and are satisfying. A hot breakfast will help you warm up, especially on cold mornings. If you make coffee anyway in the mornings, you will already have hot water available to make a hot meal. A hot dinner is very satisfying and a great way to end the day. Having your hot meals at breakfast and dinner means that you set up the kitchen just once each day, in the evening before dinner, and put it away after breakfast the next morning. Hot meals that are quick to prepare and primarily involve boiling water consume less fuel, making it possible for you to stay out longer.

A major part of trip planning is meal packaging. Essentially, you don’t want to have to think about anything after a long day’s paddle, once you have set up your camp and kitchen. You don’t want to search for things in different bags and try to figure out what to eat, or realize that you forgot a key ingredient at home. Store each meal’s ingredients in one resealable plastic bag, then store the bags for each type of meal (breakfast, lunch, dinner, and snacks) in a dry bag or two.

FISHING

JOE KAFTAN

Joe Kaftan, who began paddling on the Great Lakes, is a professional kayak instructor and avid fisher in the Seattle area. He has been paddling the Puget Sound since 1996. He integrated his lifelong passion for salmon fishing with sea kayaking in the early 2000s. Among other achievements, he landed a 24-pound king salmon in his sea kayak. He has caught dozens of 15-pound salmon and trout in Lake Michigan, as well as myriad salmon and bottom fish in the Puget Sound, and the waters of Southern Alaska. He also uses his kayak to crab and get to digs on clamming beaches.

If you are fishing from a kayak on a camping trip, you are likely in a sea kayak. Most fish accessible by kayak will weigh less than 20 pounds, and they can be landed in a sea kayak without problems. Depending on what waters you are paddling, there are tasty fish, such as rockfish, sand dabs, snapper, halibut, and flounder, on the bottom. Catch fish such as yellowtail, trout, and salmon by trolling the middle depths or on the surface.

The first thing to consider after you’ve decided to fish from your kayak is what gear you will need. Campers commonly use two types of fishing rigs. Hand lines are compact, which is helpful for packing, but they don’t offer as much ease as a rod and reel when landing a fish. A rod and reel is much easier to operate and tangles less often, but takes up more space. Plus, it’s easy to break the tip off of the rod as it’s packed.

One solution is to bring only the lower half of the rod. It takes up less space and is not as fragile, but you will need to keep an eye on the line because it can snag around the bit of rod sticking out beyond the last eye. If you plan to cast, you will need the full rod. Another compromise is to buy a short, stout rod, such as those used for halibut. There are myriad choices of reels and rods—if they work, they can catch fish.

While fishing from a kayak, you do not need line as heavy as you would use while fishing from land or from a powerboat. As the fish pulls on your line, your kayak will move, making the line less likely to break. Always have your knife ready and available to cut your line quickly in case a fish threatens to tip you.

Kayakers often use two types of bait: spoons and weighted lures. (Of course, in some cases flies or live bait work better.) Use spoons to troll the lure behind the boat as you paddle or for casting. A separate weight may help you get the lure to a preferred depth when trolling. Use weighted lures for bottom fishing. You can troll them behind a kayak as well, but they do not attract fish as well as spoons. A hand line or a rod and reel can be used for both bottom fishing and trolling.

To fish on the bottom, you first need weight to sink your lure or jig. If a lure or jig does not have enough weight to sink through the current, attach a lead sinker. The idea is to bounce the lure on the bottom, sending out a vibration that attracts fish. Let out line until it stops—you know you’ve hit the bottom. Pull it up a foot or two, and let it drop again. Repeat this jigging action. This approach can be successful in up to 300 feet of water. If you are in a strong current, you may need to reel in every couple of minutes since your bait may be drifting from you. Add a little live bait (perhaps some flesh from the last fish you caught) to the hooks to increase your odds.

To troll, or pull a lure behind your kayak, you need to have a place to secure the rod while you are paddling. Purchase or make a rod holder and mount it on the kayak deck in front of the cockpit. Be careful not to restrict your paddling. You could also stick the butt of the rod into your life jacket, allowing the rod to rise past your head and trailing the line behind. The size and shape of the lure you choose and your paddling speed will dictate the depth your lure will move through the water. Try to vary depth and speed until the fish bite.

Casting a lure, fly, or popper from a kayak is possible, but consider your comfort, the state of the water, and the boat’s stability. Worm and bobber fishing works nicely from a kayak as well. You can easily lay crab traps from your kayak on a camping trip, depending on the trap’s size and weight. You can even shrimp from a kayak, but the length of rope required can make it tricky.

Where you will find the fish greatly depends on the species and geography. The points of a cove or bay are excellent places to fish. Kelp beds, drop-offs, and rock formations may be good places. Any object in the water that can give fish cover is worth exploring, but be careful of currents. Fish tend to bite best at dawn and dusk, but anytime of the day can bring a nice catch.

Once you hook a fish, the challenge becomes keeping your balance as you reel in your catch. If you have a rudder, turn your boat so it is 90 degrees to the fish, to resist and tire it. When the fish is exhausted, it’s time to bring it next to the cockpit. If you have a net, use it. If the fish has sharp teeth, such as a shark or lingcod, you will want to gaff it, keeping your hands away from its mouth. If you do not have a gaff or a net, lift the fish carefully by the gills with your hand. With salmon, ease your hand along the body gently toward the gill, until you can slip you fingers inside and pick up the fish. Now that the fish is out of the water, you may want to dispatch it with your knife or a club. If you are not concerned about the drag in the water, or larger predators like seals or sharks attacking your fish, you could slide your catch onto a stringer tied to your kayak, and let it back into the water. A catch bag of some sort can be very helpful for securing the fish, and keeping it from interfering with your paddling.

Safety should be your top priority while fishing from a sea kayak. Each body of water has particular hazards. Be aware of the currents. Fishing can make your meals tastier and can be great fun.

Fig. 7-2 Sometimes you can catch your dinner!

Keep meals simple. For example, at dinner, boil water, add dehydrated soup mix and veggies, stir, add pasta or instant rice, stir, turn off the stove, and stir once in a while. When the pasta is cooked, add meat and allow it to heat—a tasty and nutritious dinner ready in about 10 minutes and with very little fuel consumption.

BREAKFAST

Most people find a hot drink in the morning very satisfying; it’s a great way to start your sea kayaking day. I live in Seattle and drink lots of coffee! It’s how we get through the rainy days—and it is one of my indulgences on sea kayak trips. Some people like to use a French press; others prefer filtered coffee instead. Whichever you use, be sure to pack out the grounds (and filters if used) from campsites with no garbage service.

Hot cereal at breakfast is a staple for many paddlers. Simple cereals like instant cream of wheat or instant oatmeal pair well with dried fruit and nuts. If you want to at least partially hydrate the dehydrated fruit you add, place it in a very substantial sandwich-sized plastic container and soak it in hot water overnight. By the next morning, the fruit will be perfect.

LUNCH

Bread or crackers with cheese and meat or peanut butter with fruit (either fresh or dried) makes a great lunch. A heavy rustic loaf of bread, stored in a resealable plastic bag, will stay fresh longer whole than if it is sliced. Flatbread or pita are also great sources of carbohydrates. If you bring crackers, choose less destructible varieties; otherwise you will end up with a bag full of crumbs. If you bring cheese, store it as a brick in a resealable plastic bag and slice off pieces as desired.

Fresh fruit is great with lunch but apples are the only fresh fruit I’ve been able to carry that do not turn into mush after several days. On a long trip you can bring enough apples to eat one every other day. Dried fruit also packs well.

Dried salami or other key protein and fat sources make a great foundation for lunch. Dried salami can be purchased in long sticks, cut into sections (one section for two or three lunches), and placed into resealable plastic bags at home. Strip off the outside covering (paper and mold) because that tends to deteriorate over time. If you leave the outside cover on the salami, after about the fourth day it becomes a real mess and virtually impossible to separate from the part you want to eat. Also, removing the covering at home means you don’t have to worry about it adding to the trip’s trash to pack out. Remember, leave no trace.

After you’ve had a great morning paddle, pull up onto a nice beach for your early afternoon lunch break. Look for a big log with a flat surface, and enjoy a very pleasant seaside meal.

SNACKS

You must eat regularly to maximize performance and keep your blood glucose, glycogen, and fat metabolism fairly constant. Aim for a snack of about 50–100 calories an hour—enough to keep you fresh and drawing on fat stores but not feeling bloated. Choose snacks that are fairly high in protein (about 30 percent), because your body needs protein to metabolize carbohydrates. Consider eating energy bars while paddling and trail mix onshore during breaks.

DINNER

You must eat a good dinner, but if you’re tired and have to sit there and think about it too much, you might skip the meal altogether. Dinners should be simple and require no decision making at the campsite. Like all camp meals, dinner needs to be quick to make, should minimize fuel consumption, and should be simple to prepare. At home, measure everything you need for each meal and organize it into one resealable plastic bag. At camp, you only have to add it to boiling water. Keep it simple and quick.

The easiest kayaking dinners are cooked in one pot and are a combination of carbohydrates, protein, and fat. All three replace energy stores that you burned during the day and fuel you for the next. For carbohydrates consider instant rice, instant pasta, instant stuffing mix, or instant mashed potatoes. Dehydrate vegetables and carbohydrates to save weight. You can purchase precooked chicken, tuna, or salmon, in lightweight foil single-serving packages for protein. Your protein sources will often contain fat, or you can add cheese. Season your meal to satisfy your tastes. Dried soup mix is a great way to season meals and add a sauce.

Dinner preparation actually begins at breakfast: hydrating the veggies. You can use the same container for hydrating dried fruit for breakfast and hydrating your dinner vegetables. At breakfast, place your premeasured dehydrated vegetables for that evening’s dinner (stored in a resealable plastic bag) in the plastic container, along with hot water. Then store the container in the kayak during the day, allowing the vegetables to hydrate. By evening, they will be fully hydrated, be ready to be added to the dinner pot, and will cook very quickly.

At dinner time, after the kitchen is set up, boil a pot of water. Once the water is boiling, add a soup mix and the rehydrated vegetables. When those ingredients are well mixed and starting to cook, in goes the carbohydrate component—instant pasta, rice, stuffing mix, or mashed potatoes. At this point, turn off the stove to conserve fuel. This method will take only two to three minutes of fuel consumption to make dinner. Meat, precooked in foil packages, just needs to be heated up; you can add it after you turn the stove off. A dinner like this one will take between five and ten minutes to cook.

As you do for breakfast and lunch, pre-measure all your dinner components and place them in resealable plastic bags. Then place all the parts for each dinner into one bag. Store the meal bags in a medium-sized dry bag marked “Dinner.”

LOADING YOUR KAYAK

When packing gear into your kayak, place heavier items toward the center of the boat and low in the kayak, with lighter gear toward the ends and higher in the boat. Packing this way will reduce the pitch moment—the mass toward the ends of the kayak that acts on driving the ends up and down—which adds stability, tracking, and glide. Fit small gear that doesn’t need to be in a dry bag, such as fiberglass fuel bottles, into nooks and crannies around larger objects like dry bags inside the front and back hatches.

Fig. 7-3 A well-packed kayak

Minimize the amount of gear you stow on deck because it raises the boat’s center of mass, which decreases stability and increases freeboard. Remember that freeboard is the boat’s height above the water, which is subject to wind effect; the higher the freeboard, the more the kayak is blown downwind or pushed around by waves. Keep out only the items you may need for paddling, navigation, or rescue, such as your spare paddle, chart case, grease pencil, and hydration system. Secure rescue items, such as your paddle float and pump inside your cockpit.

Generally, keep metal objects, which can cause your compass to misalign with magnetic north, at least three feet from the compass, preferably aft of the cockpit in the back hatch. Repair kits, spare parts, kitchen components, and first-aid kits often include metal parts. To test a metal object’s effect on your deck-mounted compass, move it in a circle around and close to the compass. If the compass needle follows the object at all, it affects the compass. Move the object farther away from the compass and repeat the test. Once the object no longer affects the compass, you know the minimum distance away from the compass to store it.

LOADING A KAYAK

When you load a kayak, keep all the following in mind:

Load heavier items toward center and low in the kayak.

Use combination float and end storage bags to take up unused space and hold the other gear in place.

Keep metals away from compass.

Minimize gear on the deck, especially if you expect rough conditions or will be traveling through much surf.

Keep critical emergency gear, such as a whistle, radio, mirror, and tow on you (in a pouch or life jacket pockets) in case you get separated from your boat.

Keep remaining emergency gear, including your first-aid kit, readily accessible.

Keep items you need during the day (clothing and lunch, for instance) the next closest after your emergency gear.

Distribute remaining gear evenly throughout the boat.

Store the following in dry bags (1–5 bags, depending on the trip length):

Kitchen with camp stove

Repair kit

First-aid kit

Shelter such as a tent

Sleeping bag

Camp clothing

Changes and layers of clothing

In my touring kayak, I can easily pack everything I need for a 30-day trip without any resupply other than water. In each end I fit a combination flotation and dry bag, then two rows of three medium-sized dry bags oriented lengthwise. My sleeping pad and a tube full of charts I am not currently using fit on top of the dry bags in front of the hatch. In the cockpit, between my foot pedals and the front bulkhead, there is space for two additional medium dry bags positioned laterally and secured in place. I store water to drink while paddling in an insulated bladder, which provides protection from abrasion, as well as from the sun, on the back deck and for other use in two 2-liter (quart) water bags, one forward inside the cockpit behind the seat and one aft inside the back hatch.

DRY BAGS

Because there’s no such thing as perfectly dry storage in a kayak, almost everything should be stored in dry bags. A dry bag is a waterproof bag with a closure that completely seals its contents from water, usually with an edge that you roll down two or three times. You can sort and pack gear into dry bags, just as you would use stuff sacks for a backpack.

Dry bags come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. Those that are transparent, at least in part, allow you to see what’s inside without having to unpack them. Medium-sized dry bags slide more readily through kayak hatches, and you can more easily wiggle them into position inside the kayak. A dry bag with a supple texture and a matte flat surface slides around more freely within a hatch, making it easier when positioning it in the kayak. Bags with stiff vinyl-like, shiny surfaces tend to stick to each other and are difficult to move around.

A combination dry and flotation bag with tapered ends fits well into the ends of the kayak, allowing maximum use of storage space. If needed, the combination bag can also hold gear; otherwise you fit it into position and manually inflate it by blowing air through a long tube. Filling the ends of the kayak with an inflated dry bag helps keep the rest of the gear in that compartment in place and from shifting around. A combination bag also adds a layer of safety in the unlikely event that the hatch cover fails and the hatch floods.

SETTING UP CAMP

Many boat-in camping areas, especially those that beginning- and intermediate-level kayakers will visit, have designated tent sites, a picnic table, a water supply, and some type of latrine, from a pit toilet to a flush toilet with running water. These camping areas are often found in municipal, state, provincial, or national parks and are monitored by a ranger or attendant. If you plan to resupply water each day, a camping area near a water supply is ideal. Many parks offer running water that is pumped from a well and safe to drink.

When you have a choice, choose a site near the water, so that you don’t have to haul gear back and forth a long distance. Your site should be well above high-high tide level and offer protection from prevailing wind and possible storms. If there’s a large log, it will offer a great place to sit and enjoy the outdoor views, as well as provide a break from the wind if needed.

SET UP YOUR TENT

Your tent site should provide nearly flat ground for your tent and sleeping bag. It should drain well to keep water from pooling below you at night. Sand and small pea gravel make very comfortable and well-drained spaces for tent sites.

Fig. 7-4 Kayak camping offers beautiful evening sunsets.

SECURE YOUR KAYAK

Once you have unloaded the kayaks, it’s time to move them up the beach. Overnight, store kayaks high enough above the high-high tide level to prevent them from being washed away. Rest them on the ground but not across fallen logs or other debris where they can be knocked or blown about. Securely tie them to a tree or large rock to assure they will be in place in the morning and not lost to wind or unusually high waves.

SET UP YOUR KITCHEN

The place where you set up your camp kitchen should provide some shelter from the wind to help your stove heat water more quickly and keep you comfortable. A large rain fly can provide shelter from the sun, wind, and rain and makes a great kitchen shelter.

Some kayakers prefer to make their hot meal at midday and avoid cooking dinner near their campsite, to make their overnight site less attractive to wildlife. However, setting up the kitchen at lunchtime takes a lot of time. If you prefer a hot drink with breakfast and sometimes in the evening, set up your kitchen at the end of the day. No matter how careful you are, kitchens attract wildlife. When camping in bear, raccoon, or wolf habitat, locate your kitchen at least 100 yards from your tent.

Raccoons and other wildlife, such as bears and wolves, have been known to open kayak hatch covers and destroy the contents. Loss of food or boat damage at a remote location several days from the nearest resupply would result in a very unpleasant trip—literally unhappy campers. Hang all food, as well as scented items, such as toothpaste, at least 20 feet (6 meters) off the ground and 100 feet from your tent site. Throw your towline over a tree branch, about 20 feet (6 meters) off the ground. Clip dry bags containing all food and toiletries, especially those that are scented and attract wildlife (toothpaste, toothbrush, shaving cream, hand lotion, and lip balm), to your towline carabiner and hoist the bags up into the tree.

SET UP YOUR LATRINE

In camping areas close to higher population densities, restrooms with flush toilets and running water are often available. Where running water is not an option, pit or composting toilets may be provided. As kayakers venture farther afield, they face decisions regarding waste disposal where facilities are not provided.

Different municipalities have different requirements for disposing of human waste, to minimize environmental impact and to keep public lands as clean as possible. Leave No Trace standards recommend that you locate a latrine at least 200 feet (60 meters) from water and dig a cathole six to eight inches deep and four to six inches in diameter, as well as pack out toilet paper and sanitary products. Cover and disguise each cathole after use and disperse them widely.

Another option, although it consumes a lot of kayak storage space and produces more waste, is to use a portable toilet with single use waste bags that attach to the seat. Within the bags are chemical compounds that render waste inert, so you can pack the bags out and throw them away.

LEAVE NO TRACE

Leave No Trace (LNT) is a philosophy that involves respect for the special places where we paddle, those who visit after we leave, and the resident wildlife. The LNT organization offers classes to develop awareness and a set of skills that guide kayakers in following this most valuable principle. (See the LNT website, listed in the appendix, for information and classes.)

Racing offers exercise and fitness as well as competition. (Photo by Amy Timacheff)

CHAPTER 8

Kayaking for Fitness

Wanting to improve kayaking fitness usually means wanting to improve the ability to paddle farther and perhaps faster with less fatigue. However, improved fitness can also provide numerous health benefits.

Human bodies are designed to be physically active. When they are not, serious health consequences, such as obesity, diabetes, and fatty liver disease, may result. Many modern health issues are, at least to some extent, the result of inadequate exercise. And most sadly, the conditions that have been steadily building in adults for generations are now spreading to children.

More and more people are becoming aware of the critical health benefits of daily rigorous exercise. Publications from academic peer-reviewed journals to popular tabloids tout these health benefits, including improved body composition—higher levels of lean body mass (bone and muscle) and lower levels of fat. With improved fitness, your muscles become denser, and you can activate them more forcefully and generate greater power. Lower fat levels not only allow you to move and react more quickly, but they also help to prevent certain illnesses, such as diabetes and liver disease.

Regular exercise also improves the body’s ability to send signals from the brain to activate muscles (neuromuscular activation). Neural pathways send stronger and faster signals to activate muscles, allowing quicker and more forceful movement and reactions. Maintaining these pathways helps you retain your ability to move quickly and dynamically, particularly as you age.

Stressful exercise also places mechanical loads on bones, which can improve bone density and strength, making you less susceptible to bone-wasting diseases, such as osteoporosis. Bone density increases very specifically only in the parts of our skeletal system that undergo stressful loading.

Exercise also enhances your body’s ability to deliver blood—and thereby oxygen, nutrients, and hormonal signals—to organs, as well as to remove, process, and expel waste, such as carbon dioxide. Capillary beds become denser to deliver blood to the muscles you are exercising, as well as increasing these specific muscle cells’ ability to store and replenish energy sources.

KAYAKING FOR EXERCISE

Kayaking is an ideal lifelong, low-impact, beneficial part of a healthy, active, outdoor lifestyle. There’s no better way to enjoy exercise than kayaking—outside, on the water, feeling the kayak glide. All the health benefits of exercise, not only help us enjoy kayaking to a greater degree, but may also enhance our longevity, health, and quality of life outside the boat.

The door to the world of paddle sports can open for children as young as about eight, once they have attained reasonable swimming skills and comfort being in and around water. The earlier young people become engaged in lifelong fitness activity, and the more their families participate, the more likely they are to remain active throughout their lives. Young and old alike can benefit from regular active kayaking.

Kayaking exercise can involve recreational touring, citizen-level racing at local events, national competitions, and international competitions all the way to the Olympic Games. Kayak-racing disciplines that readily use skills from kayak touring include Olympic flatwater sprint, marathon, surf ski, and citizen-level touring kayak racing.

PADDLING AS PART OF A TEAM

You can take up kayak racing as an individual or with a racing club. Club programs provide a great social network and a supportive group to help you remain engaged in regular exercise. Beginning at about 10 years old, the ideal age for children to begin kayaking, some age group programs provide youth with paddling opportunities to race and train with other young people interested in paddle sports. Senior (the international term for the open group) racing can take kayak athletes all the way to the Olympic Games, where kayaking is the sport with the fourth-most events. Masters age group racing offers older paddlers racing and training opportunities well into their 80s.

Paddling as part of a team, for adults in a masters program and youth in age group racing, can add another level of enjoyment to fitness paddling. The social aspects of team paddling, with the support of friends and teammates, can influence you to kayak more often. Kayaking as part of a team can involve training and racing in single, double, and four-person kayaks, adding another element of fun. When you race with a team, you get to spend the day with friends and track and measure your improvement.

Groups often maintain much higher safety levels than most kayakers can manage while paddling alone. In coached programs, the coach often leads the exercise sessions from a small motorboat. If you capsize, the coach can help you into the motorboat and then back into your kayak. The coach can also help monitor hazards, such as tree stumps and other vessel traffic. Thus, coached group training programs greatly enhance your safety.

A coach also offers an objective set of eyes to help you develop your technique. Training multiple times each week with a team allows the coach to help you establish a personalized progression of technique development and work on very small components each session. These small steps lead to a higher, more ingrained level of technical development.

A coach can also design your training plan, raising the likelihood that your progression from one performance level to the next is scientifically grounded and maximizes the time you invest in your exercise regimen. Joining a group of friends who enjoy sharing kayaking together, as well as frequent and ongoing coaching in a safer environment, will help you enjoy paddling more thoroughly. Kayak racing is a great vehicle for recreation that engages youth and adults in a lifelong activity. To find a local racing club, go to usack.org. If there’s not a club in your area, perhaps you can help to start one.

FITNESS CONCEPTS

Whether you choose to exercise individually or as part of a group, learning about critical concepts in fitness development will help outline the steps you can take to improve your kayaking fitness. These basic fitness concepts are universally accepted principles that apply to all fitness activities.

SPECIFICITY

The manner in which specific exercise affects performance is called specificity. When you exercise, what improves are the exact neuromuscular components being exercised. For example, if you want to improve your sea kayaking, by far the best exercise is to paddle in a sea kayak. The adaptations your body undergoes are specific to the muscles being exercised, as well as to the parts of our skeletal system that undergo loading. Universal improvements, such as heart muscle strength and contractility, lung function, and body composition, do occur and benefit other physical activities, but the core of fitness development is very specific to each activity.

ADAPTATION AND OVERLOAD

Over time, our bodies adapt to whatever stimulus we present it with. If we sit on the couch, we detrain our fitness and performance level; if we maintain our current exercise level, we remain at the same performance level; if we exceed our current exercise level, we improve. These are the only options. To improve, we must increase our level of exercise and provide a stimulus beyond our current level of adaptation—the concept of overload.

Overload follows a classic pattern that begins with an existing level of performance. As overload is introduced into a person’s fitness regimen, the person becomes fatigued (1 in Fig. 8-1) resulting in a diminished performance level (2 in Fig. 8-1) in the short term. During this period of fatigue and reduced performance, people often become discouraged; however, this is a critical component of adaptation to stimulate improvement. With sustained overload, over at least three or four weeks, the exerciser begins to adapt (3 in Fig. 8-1), improve performance, and reach a greater capacity (4 in Fig. 8-1).

Fig. 8-1 Overload and adaptation pattern

Overloading and subsequently adapting to that sustained increased stimulus is the only way to improve performance. Exercise scientists have identified four core methods that cause overload: frequency, duration, intensity, and density.

Frequency

The number of exercise sessions performed each week is described as frequency. If a kayaker paddles once each week, he could increase his frequency—and, therefore, overload—by adding a second or third session.

Duration

The length of each exercise session, measured either in distance or time, is its duration. A kayaker can accomplish overload by paddling farther or longer each session.

Intensity

How hard a person exercises during the training session is expressed as intensity. Generally, to train for kayak touring, you should paddle near your maximum aerobic capacity. How energy resources are metabolized is categorized as aerobic (moderate intensity, in which adequate oxygen is available) and anaerobic (rigorous intensity, where oxygen is not utilized at the start of exercise or is inadequate at higher intensity levels). Oxygen is critical in combining with and removing carbon molecules, the bonds of which provide energy replacement (ATP resynthesis) and result in the formation of carbon dioxide.

When exercise intensity exceeds the body’s ability to deliver oxygen to exercising muscles, the body begins to draw on other energy sources, particularly lactic acid, which has a limit in duration. While all energy systems are operating all the time, the level of training intensity at which anaerobic surpasses aerobic energy sources is your anaerobic threshold. High-intensity aerobic endurance training can improve the body’s ability to deliver oxygen and delay the onset of anaerobic metabolism, thereby increasing endurance. Anaerobic training can increase the body’s ability to utilize and process lactic acid. It can also improve your ability to move quickly and dynamically, improving your ability to react to unexpected sea kayak conditions or quickly paddle away from a dangerous situation. However, since the vast majority of your sea kayaking happens well within the aerobic level, focus your training on developing your aerobic capacity.

Lower levels of intensity involve a larger proportion of fat metabolism; however, at higher aerobic intensity levels, the absolute level of fat used and glycogen consumed is far greater. An intensity level near aerobic capacity maximizes both fat and glycogen metabolism.

Density

The volume of training within a specific period of time is described as density. You control density by decreasing the rest interval between bouts (pieces) of exercise. For example, if you start your kayaking exercise program paddling 10 minutes three times with three minutes rest between, to increase density, you would reduce the rest period to two minutes and then to one minute over several weeks.

PROGRESSION

When you begin a fitness regimen, introduce overload and adaptation progressively. A progressive approach to overload means taking moderate and measured steps to increase fitness. For a touring kayaker, an increase of 3 to 5 kilometers per week, divided into three or four sessions, is an adequate increase in duration to create overload and achieve adaptation.

The same progression pattern applies to increasing intensity to achieve overload and adaptation. Over several weeks of consistent and strenuous exercise, nearly all kayakers can improve their ability to paddle farther and at a higher intensity, as well as derive numerous health benefits.

DETRAINING

As mentioned earlier, our bodies respond to whatever stimulus we provide. That includes high-intensity aerobic exercise, as well as sitting on the couch, or detraining. Sadly, we adapt to detraining several times faster than we do to training. After just 12 days of detraining, subjects have seen energy stores within their muscle reduced by half of their previously trained levels. It is important to get out in your kayak regularly and consistently and keep active!

DESIGNING YOUR FITNESS PLAN

Before beginning any new serious exercise program, discuss your exercise plans with your physician to make sure that you are physically able to participate. Once you have been cleared, you can design your exercise regimen to incorporate several methods of overload for lots of interesting variety.

USE BIOFEEDBACK TECHNOLOGY

One of the fundamental tools for any exercise regimen is a heart-rate monitor. Heart-rate monitors have a sensor mounted within a strap that is fitted around the paddler’s chest. A sending unit transmits the data from the sensor to a receiver and display, usually incorporated into a wristwatch-like unit. Since it’s tough to paddle and look at anything on your wrist, most kayakers attach the wrist unit to the deck bungees directly forward of the cockpit, where they can easily read it. Waterproof heart-rate monitor models that also indicate paddling speed and distance are useful. You can also track your heart rate manually by counting your pulse, usually at your carotid artery along your neck, for a 10-second period right after you stop paddling, and then multiplying by six.

Another helpful piece of technology is an accelerometer, which measures the number of strokes taken per minute, or stroke rate. A manual alternative is to count paddle strokes over the course of 15 or 30 seconds and multiply by four or two respectively to get to a one-minute value.

UNDERSTAND YOUR AEROBIC TRAINING ZONE

Humans are wonderfully unique. Everyone has an individual fitness level and a unique ability to metabolize energy resources and endurance. A key aspect of developing your kayaking exercise program is to understand your training zones, which are based on your heart rate at a variety of intensity levels. For recreational kayakers, the critical heart rate is at the anaerobic threshold. Below this threshold, a kayaker primarily utilizes aerobic energy sources, whereas above the anaerobic threshold, anaerobic resources predominate.

You can use various methods to determine or estimate your individual heart rate at your anaerobic threshold, from measuring and comparing expired oxygen and carbon dioxide in the exercise physiology laboratory to on-the-water tests. For touring kayakers, a simple on-the-water test is more than adequate.

Fig. 8-2 Fuel endurance

With your heart-rate monitor mounted and running, paddle for three minutes with the highest possible intensity that you can sustain. Next, rest for five minutes, then paddle for another three minutes at maximum intensity. Repeat this pattern two more times. Review the data stored in your heart-rate monitor, and find the average over the last minute of each effort—that average is pretty close to your anaerobic threshold. As a touring kayaker, when you set up your exercise program, most of your training will be at about 80 percent of this threshold.

It’s also helpful to correlate your anaerobic threshold with your kayak speed and stroke rate. You can then use these parameters to target your training intensity and measure improvement. Over time your heart rate should diminish relative to boat speed and stroke rate. Or, if you maintain a given heart rate, you should be able to maintain a greater boat speed and stroke rate. For example, in my touring kayak, my optimum training heart rate is about 145 with a stroke rate of 65–70 and a boat speed of 6.5 nautical miles per hour. That translates into a cruising heart rate of 100–110, with a 50-stroke rate and boat speed of about 5 nautical miles per hour.

CHOOSE A GOAL

More people stick to their exercise program when they find their activity enjoyable and satisfying. An activity such as kayaking is an ideal fitness vehicle for those who love being on the water, want to explore new destinations that are farther away, and appreciate feeling the boat glide.

Most people also adhere to their fitness program if they establish and pursue objective and measurable goals. You can choose your goals based on a wide variety of objectives. Perhaps you want to be able to paddle a specified distance, say 5 miles, in less than one hour. Or you want to be able to maintain your boat speed for three hours. Or you want to keep your boat speed constant and lower your heart rate by five beats per minute. You may wish to prepare for a special trip you have planned. Setting single or multiple goals helps you to stay motivated and allows you to establish, pursue, and monitor your improvement.

SET YOUR SCHEDULE

Once you understand your aerobic training zone and have chosen your goals, it’s time to set up your fitness schedule. What times of year do you have access to the water? How many times per week will you paddle? How long will each session last?

PERIODIZE

Once you know your schedule, you can create your periodization plan—a cyclic pattern of exercise overload and recovery. In exercise science literature, periodization has been shown to result in more rapid physical development than any other method. In a simplified periodization scheme, the year is divided into three- to five-week cycles. Cycles with more weeks allow greater increases in overload; those with fewer weeks incorporate more recovery. When grouping weeks into cycles, if you’ve set a goal that is associated with a specific date, such as that of a trip or race, start at that date and work backward to the current week.

During each cycle, focus on one or two overload methods while keeping the other aspects at current levels. Each week increase the overload a bit, to cause greater adaptation. Then, during the first week of the next cycle, reduce the overload a bit to allow for recovery and accelerated adaptation. Then increase the overload with each successive week of the next cycle. The result is a pattern of two to four steps up and one back.

For example, for a three-week cycle with overload achieved by adding distance at a given intensity level, you would start with a distance at your current capacity for the first week. You would then add a half nautical mile to the sessions in each subsequent week of the period. If you started at 4 nautical miles per session the first week, you would increase to 4.5 nautical miles the second week and 5 nautical miles per session the third week. Then during the first week of the next period, you would reduce by a half nautical mile each session (to 4.5) and then again start increasing distance by a half nautical mile the following week.

Fig. 8-3 Periodization pattern

PLANNING DAILY EXERCISE SESSIONS

There are lots of way to organize daily paddling exercise sessions, as well as types of aerobic endurance exercise for kayakers. An individual exercise session can be composed of four general sections: warm-up, aerobic endurance exercise (the body of the session), cool down, and stretching. All the forms of aerobic endurance exercise offer an infinite variety of training structures, which provides a wide range of stimulus to cause overload and generate adaptation to help maintain your interest and motivation.

WARM UP

Before you begin strenuous exercise, warm up properly. Begin with light paddling to active muscles and metabolic enzymes, and gradually increase blood circulation. After three to five minutes of light paddling, gradually increase speed over another three to five minutes until you reach your exercise session intensity. By the end of your warm-up, you should begin to feel some fatigue, have labored breathing, and be sweating. Then you are ready to begin the body of your workout.

DO AEROBIC ENDURANCE EXERCISE

The primary goal of aerobic exercise is to increase your ability to sustain a given aerobic speed over increased time. You can best accomplish your aerobic goals with a sustained effort at a fairly high level of intensity below your anaerobic threshold. There are three general types of conditioning programs: continuous training, repeat training, and interval training. You can combine or alternate these on different days to add interest and variety to your regimen.

Continuous Training

Continuous, uninterrupted exercise—for example, paddling for 30 minutes, or paddling to a landmark or for a specific distance—is called continuous training. Continuous paddling is most specific to the type of exercise that you’ll perform on trips. You can paddle steadily at one constant speed, or you can vary your speed, up and down, in a structured manner or however you prefer. An overload progression would be to increase the duration or distance, or speed up each week through the periodization cycle.

Repeat Training

Exercise that involves training for the same time or distance repeated several times, with rest between each effort, is called repeat training. Repeat workouts allow you to maintain a higher intensity level longer throughout the work than continuous paddling does. The sessions are divided into repeats of the same length (time or distance), with a rest between. Increasing the length of each repeat, increasing the number of repeats each week of the cycle, or reducing the rest period between repeats will help you overload progressively.

Interval Training

One key to aerobic endurance training is to alternate relatively short training intervals with rest periods of between 25 to 100 percent of the interval length—a method known as interval training. The shorter the interval and the longer the rest, the higher the exercise intensity you can maintain throughout the exercise session. Several studies have demonstrated that interval training offers the quickest adaptation of all aerobic endurance training modalities. Interval training allows you to maintain a higher intensity level for a greater duration than either continuous or repeat training.

Rest Periods

Both repeat and interval training involve some structure of alternating exercise and rest. During the rest periods, it is critical to remain active at a very light intensity level to recover for the next bout of exercise. This active rest keeps oxygen and nutrients flowing to muscle and helps remove waste from these cells as well.

COOL DOWN

After you complete the body of your exercise session, it’s time to cool down. Light paddling at the end of an exercise session allows you to gradually reduce your blood circulation, eliminate metabolic waste, and return your physiological functions to normal. After a cool down of five to ten minutes, get off the water and get warm and dry.

STRETCH

Once you are off the water, spend 15 to 20 minutes stretching. Stretching helps your body to continue to process metabolic waste removal and facilitate muscle recovery. Stretching also helps you increase your range of motion and general mobility, which will enhance your ability to improve technique. Stretches for the torso, shoulders, arms, neck, and legs are an important part of recovery. A wide variety of publications are available to help you learn about stretching. Professionals trained in stretching and yoga can help guide you through a stretching routine.

SAMPLE AEROBIC ENDURANCE PADDLING WORKOUTS

CONTINUOUS PADDLING

30 minutes of steady speed at 4 nautical miles per hour (nmh)

30 minutes of steady speed, with a pickup when you feel like it

30 minutes of steady speed at 4 nmh, with a pickup every 5 minutes to 4.5 nmh for 30 seconds

REPEAT PADDLING

Five times 6 minutes on, with 2 minutes of active rest between each repeat

Four times 1 nautical mile on, with 3 minutes of active rest between each repeat

INTERVAL PADDLING

Standard interval sets: Two sets of 3 times 5 minutes aerobic sessions, with 30 seconds of active rest between intervals, 3 minutes between sets

Pyramid: Two sets of 1-minute, 2-minute, 3-minute, 2-minute, and 1-minute aerobic sessions, with 15 seconds of active rest between intervals, 3 minutes between sets

Reverse pyramid: Two sets of 3-minute, 2-minute, 1-minute, 2-minute, and 3-minute aerobic sessions, with 15 seconds of active rest between intervals, 3 minutes between sets

Ascending: Two sets of 1-minute, 2-minute, 3-minute, and 4-minute aerobic sessions, with 15 seconds of active rest between intervals, 3 minutes between sets

Descending: Two sets of 4-minute, 3-minute, 2-minute, and 1-minute aerobic sessions, with 15 seconds of active rest between intervals, 3 minutes between sets

Higher intensity: Two sets of 4 times 30 seconds on, with 30 seconds of active rest between intervals, 3 minutes between sets

Fig. 8-4 Kayaking is a great form of regular exercise.

DEVELOPING TECHNIQUE DURING WORKOUTS

During each paddling session, focus on one or two technical areas that you wish to improve. To change any movement pattern, you must apply conscious effort and careful attention until the new movement pattern becomes ingrained.

HOW YOU CAN EXPECT TO FEEL

Once you begin your exercise program, you can expect to feel some muscle soreness and fatigue, an important component of overload and adaptation. Over time, you will become accustomed to and even enjoy the feeling of your muscles and lungs recovering from strenuous exercise.

Remember that the fatigue and diminished capacity you feel is critical for adaptation. Many people become discouraged when they vigorously exercise and yet see their performance decrease over the first two or three weeks. They often fail to continue long enough to allow time for adaptation and improved performance. Hang in there.

General fatigue facilitates improvements in liver and kidney function and numerous other metabolic activities associated with improved health and fitness. Lung function is critical to vigorous aerobic exercise. As you initiate your paddling program, you can expect to breathe more heavily to draw in oxygen and exhale carbon dioxide, as well as perform several other critical metabolic activities within your lungs. Often, because mucus and fluid settles in our lungs when we don’t exercise vigorously, we will have to endure several days of coughing that stuff up. Once your lungs are clearer, you will probably feel that you can breathe more deeply and effectively.

Kayaking is a wonderful way to bring an exercise program into your life. The benefits include improved metabolic function, increased muscle mass and bone density, and greater endurance. Your weekly kayaking exercise regimen can help you become a more effective paddler, with greater power, technique, and endurance.

One of the greatest benefits of kayaking as outdoor adventure and exercise is healing. You can heal from life’s daily pressures and challenges, release built-up anxiety, get outside on the open water, breathe fresh air, and feel the kayak glide. Kayaking is perfect for those people who wish to become fitter, develop skills, and go on adventures to explore beautiful destinations, as well as to share wonderful experiences with friends and find peace. I hope we get to paddle together some day. See you on the water.

Glossary

adaptation: Exercise principle that describes how humans adjust to increasing or decreasing levels of overload.

aft: Toward the stern (or back) of a boat.

Aids to Navigation (ATONs): All the buoy markers, navigational lights, bells, horns, and signs installed to help mariners navigate through waterways, to protect shorelines and sensitive areas, and to avoid collisions.

anterior pelvic tilt: When the anterior superior iliac spine is tilted forward of the ischium.

assisted rescue: Recovering into an upright position after a capsize with assistance from another kayaker.

autonomic nervous system: Part of the nervous system that provides control largely below the level of consciousness.

backrest (strap): Means of support for lower back while sitting in a kayak. Also, back band.

backward ferry: To point a kayak stern into the current while traveling across it and not moving upstream or downstream. Also, back ferry.

bay: Large waterway nearly surrounded by land.

beach surge zone: Region where breaking waves lose their energy and surge up the beach. The water is deep enough for a kayaker to paddle.

bilge pump: A hand-operated pump used to remove water from a kayak cockpit area.

biofeedback: Technological means of monitoring physical efforts.

bow: The front end of a kayak.

brace: Motion of pressing the paddle blade down onto the water’s surface to assist with returning a paddler’s center of mass over a kayak’s center of buoyancy.

breaking forces: Forces that slow a kayak caused by the paddle blade entering the water at the catch and/or being extracted at the exit.

can buoy: A vertically oriented cylindrical buoy with a flat top. They are usually painted either red or green, but may also be painted black.

catch: The action of placing a kayak paddle blade into the water at the beginning of the power transmission phase of a kayak stroke.

chart case: Waterproof case (for kayaks) specifically designed to be mounted on the front deck.

Chart Number 1: Booklet that lists all the terms, abbreviations, and symbols used in all the nautical charts published by their respective countries.

chine: Change in radius of a hull cross section.

coaming: The cockpit rim.

cockpit: The opening in the deck in which a kayaker sits.

cockpit rim: The reinforced opening of the cockpit that includes a horizontal projection or lip for the attachment of a spray skirt.

colored nun buoy: A vertically oriented cylindrical or can buoy with a pointed top, like the shape of a nun’s coif and veil. They are most commonly painted either red or green but are sometimes black.

compass: Magnetic handheld or deck-mounted compass used to match what a kayaker sees on his nautical chart with the surrounding topography, to follow a course, and to find a position.

compass rose (chart): Gives the cardinal directions (north, south, east, and west), aligned with the printed chart, with north at the top.

continuous training: Continuous, uninterrupted exercise.

contour lines: A line on a map that joins points that share a common elevation above sea level and show hills, valleys, and the steepness of slopes.

control hand: The hand that controls the orientation of a feathered paddle.

cool down: Light paddling at the end of an exercise session that allows you to gradually reduce your blood circulation, eliminate metabolic waste, and return your physiological functions to normal.

coordinate system: An arrangement of horizontal and vertical lines that form a grid on a chart to describe a location.

core: Abdominal muscles that stabilize posture.

counterrotation: The action of forcing additional body twist at the end of the recovery phase of a kayak stroke in preparation for the next catch.

course: Intended angle a kayak is paddled relative to true north.

current: The movement of seawater as a result of changes in tidal height.

cyclical endurance activities: Motions that are repeated over and over.

deck: The enclosure of the top side of a kayak.

deck bungee cords: Usually attached in a crisscross pattern, these cords help hold items securely to a kayak deck.

density: Volume of training within a specific period of time.

detraining: Exercise principle of adaptation due to a reduction or succession of exercise.

diurnal tide pattern: One daily cycle of tidal height changes.

divider: Used in navigation to measure distance along a course. Composed of two long narrow arms hinged at one end.

dorsal flexed: Flexion at the ankle where toes move toward the shin.

drag: A force that resists motion of an object through a fluid.

draw stroke: Paddling stroke that draws a kayak toward the paddle.

dry bag: Waterproof bag with a closure that completely seals its contents from water.

duration: The length of each exercise session, measured either in distance or time.

dynamic stability: The ability to maintain the body’s center of mass over a kayak’s center of buoyancy.

ebb: Occurs when the seawater is moving away from land, with a corresponding lowering of sea level.

eddy: A low-pressure vortex downstream of an object, either moving or stationary, into which fluids backfill.

eddy line: Region of current differential between the dominant current and an eddy.

edge turning: Using the chine characteristics of a kayak to turn.

edging: The act of raising one side and lowering the other side of the kayak to help control direction of travel.

Eskimo roll: The most efficient way to recover from a capsize; the kayaker does not exit the kayak but instead shifts his body weight in order to right the boat.

estuaries: Region where tidal forces range up a river, washing river sediments out to sea.

exit: The action of taking a kayak paddle blade out of the water at the end of the power transmission phase of a kayak stroke. Initiates the recovery phase of a kayak stroke.

extension: The motion of increasing a joint angle.

feathered paddle: Blades of a kayak paddle are not on the same plane, allowing the wrist of the control hand to remain straight throughout the stroke cycle.

ferrying: Paddling a kayak across a current without upstream or downstream movement.

flexion: The motion of reducing a joint angle.

flood: Occurs when water moves toward the land, with a corresponding rise of sea level.

fluid: Substance that deforms and flows around an object as a result of an applied force.

foot pedal: The fixed surface on which a kayaker places his feet. The primary force transfer point of power generated by a kayaker’s paddling action to kayak movement.

foot pedal track: An attachment to the insides of a kayak between the cockpit and the bow that allow a kayaker to adjust the foot pedals forward or backward, and then fix them in place, to accommodate individual kayakers’ leg length.

force: Influence that causes a free body to undergo a change in speed, direction, or shape.

force curve (stroke): Measurement of force for one stroke as defined by the area under the curve.

forward ferry: Ferry where a kayak bow is pointed into the current.

forward stroke: Paddling stokes to move a kayak forward.

forward sweep: Paddling stroke that moves a kayak forward and turns it away from the paddling side.

free end: The end of a kayak that moves more readily as a result of a change in wind or current conditions.

frequency: The number of exercise sessions performed each week.

glide: The continued movement of a kayak through the water during the recovery phase of a kayak stroke.

Global Positioning System (GPS) receiver: An electronic tool that can display your position coordinates, position on an electronic map, speed, and heading.

hard chine: Dramatic change in radius of a hull cross section resulting in a longitudinal ridge.

heading: Angle a kayak is paddled relative to true north.

horizontal paddling style: Paddle has a more horizontal, low angle, orientation.

hula hips: The motion of swinging the hips from side to side away from the paddling side with strokes alternating on each side.

hull: The enclosure of the bottom side of a kayak, in contact with the water.

intensity: How hard a person exercises during a training session.

intertidal zone: Region of land between the highest and lowest tidal sea levels.

interval training: Alternating relatively short training intervals with rest periods of between 25 to 100 percent of the interval length, usually organized into sets.

joint segments: Body limb segments between two joints.

key (chart): Provides chart information such as the scale, soundings, the manner in which water depths are determined, and notes.

kinematic chain: Connection of rigid body segments.

laminar flow: Way that fluids flow around objects in parallel undisrupted layers.

lee side: The downwind side of an object such as a body of land or a vessel.

leeward: Towards the lee side, that is, facing the downwind side.

leg drive: The action of pushing with the onside leg to increase rotational forces during the power transmission phase of a kayak stroke.

life jacket: In kayaking a vestlike garment that provides flotation if a kayaker capsizes and swims. Serves as a critical safety device that recreational kayakers should always wear. Also, personal flotation device (PFD).

load (loading): The action of shifting body weight from a kayak and onto the paddle during the power transmission phase of a kayak stroke.

locked-in end: The end of a kayak that moves less readily as a result of a change in wind or current conditions.

longshore bar: Sandbar that forms parallel to the beach.

lower intertidal zone: Region immediately offshore of the wave break.

lubber line: Reference line printed on the compass globe that faces the paddler and indicates a kayak’s heading.

Mercator projection: Representation of the earth altered from a sphere into a cylinder.

meridians of longitude: Great circles with a vertical orientation on a chart that define distances east and west of the prime meridian.

metacarpals: The bones of the flat part of the hand between the fingers and wrist.

middle deltoids: The muscle group that extends across the top of the shoulder. When shortened it lifts the elbow.

moment (moment of force): Bending force on a paddle shaft.

moment arm: Radius length of an arc.

natural range: Aligning two fixed landmarks to help maintain a desired course.

neap tide: Tides with less magnitude as a result of sun, earth, and moon misalignment.

negative angle: A paddle position where the tip of the blade in the water appears to be behind the top hand, when viewed from the side.

noncontrol hand: The hand opposite of the control hand. The paddle shaft freely rotates in this hand when transitioning paddle strokes from one side to the other.

offside: The side with the blade out of the water.

onside: The paddling side on which a kayaker is loading body weight. The side with the blade in the water.

overload: Exercise principle that says that to improve we must exercise and stimulate our bodies beyond our current level.

paddle: Means of propulsion in a kayak. A kayaker holds a shaft with one hand on each end. It is not fixed to the boat.

paddle blade: The portion of a kayak paddle that provides resistance in the water to move a kayak.

paddle float: Self-rescue device that provides flotation on the end of a paddle. It acts as an outrigger to increase the base of support for a kayaker to climb back in after capsizing.

paddle shaft: The portion of a kayak paddle that connects the two blades, where a kayaker holds on to the paddle.

paddling side: The side of a kayak where the paddle blade is in the water.

parallel ruler: Navigation tool composed of two straight edges held parallel by a hinged arm mounted close to each end.

parallels of latitude: Horizontal circles around the earth that are used as part of the gridlines on a navigational chart.

peninsula: Land that protrudes into the sea.

perimeter deck lines: Lines attached on the deck near the side of a kayak that serve as points where a capsized kayaker can grab the boat.

periodization plan: Cyclic pattern of exercise overload and recovery.

pitch (pitching): Vertical force applied fore and aft along the length of a kayak.

pivoting: Moving around a given point.

pivot point: Point around which rotation occurs.

plantar flexed: Flexion at the ankle where toes move away from the shin.

port: The left side of a boat when facing forward.

positive angle: Paddle position where the tip of the blade in the water appears to be forward of the top hand, when viewed from the side.

power transmission phase: The portion of a kayak stroke that causes forward movement of the boat. Includes catch, load, and rotation.

progression: Exercise approach to overload by taking moderate and measured steps to increase fitness.

projection (chart): Three-dimensional spherical object (the earth) projected onto a flat sheet of paper.

pronate: To rotate toward the center or inward.

radial deviation: The motion of reducing the wrist joint angle laterally between the thumb and the elbow.

radius: Bone of the forearm.

recovery phase: The portion of a kayak stroke in preparation for the next power transmission phase. Includes exit, glide, and counterrotation.

recreational kayaks: Kayaks designed for protected waters.

repeat training: Exercise that involves training for the same time or distance for several times, with rest between each effort.

reverse stroke: Strokes that move a kayak backward.

reverse sweep: Paddling stroke that moves a kayak backward and turns it away from the paddling side.

rip currents: Water moving away from the beach through a longshore bar channel.

river delta: Region where the sediment drops out of the river as the water velocity diminishes.

rocker: The height of the ends of the kayak above its deepest point, like a rocking chair; more rocker means the ends are higher.

roll: Change in horizontal orientation of a kayak.

rotation: The action of pulling back with the onside blade and pushing forward with the offside blade to increase stroke length and maintain the blade in a more optimum position and power during the power transmission phase of a kayak stroke.

rudder: The movable projection at the stern of a kayak used for steering.

sagittal plane: View of the paddling motion as seen from the side.

sandbar: Linear forms of land extending into the water.

scale (chart): The ratio to which the chart area has been reduced to fit on the sheet.

sea kayaks: Touring kayaks designed for a wide variety of conditions, from protected waters to open ocean.

seat: The surface on which a kayaker sits.

self-rescue: Recovering into an upright position after a capsize without assistance.

semidiurnal tide pattern: Two daily cycles of tidal height changes.

setup: Paddling position in preparation for a stroke.

skeg: A fin-like protrusion near the stern of a boat that helps prevent weathercocking.

side slip: Movement of a kayak sideways without a directional change.

signaling devices: Designed to attract attention in the case of an emergency or to warn others to avoid collision.

slack: Moment after the high or low level, when the sea prepares to move away from or toward the land.

soft chine: Gentle change in radius of a hull cross section resulting in a soft curve.

soundings: Water depth measurements printed on nautical charts.

specificity: Improvements in the exact neuromuscular components being exercised.

spit: Sandbar that extends from the land into the water.

spray skirt: A fabric or neoprene covering a kayaker wears while paddling. It fits around a kayaker’s torso and over the cockpit opening and helps keep water out.

spring tides: Tides with greater magnitude as a result of sun, Earth, and moon alignment.

stability: The act of maintaining center of mass over the base of support. In the case of kayaking, a kayak’s center of buoyancy.

starboard: The right side of a boat when facing forward.

steering cables: The cables that transfer motion from the foot pedals to the rudder, helping a kayaker steer the boat.

stern: The back end of a kayak.

stroke: The unit of movement in kayaking. Includes one power transmission and one recovery phase on one side of a kayak.

stroke length: The longitudinal distance, relative to a kayak, of blade position at the catch and blade travel in the water—from the catch to the exit.

stroke rate: The number of strokes per minute.

supinate: To rotate away from the center or outward.

surf zone: Region where waves build and break.

swash zone: Region where waves run up the beach and backwash toward the ocean.

technical efficiency: Maximizing the distance of kayak movement for a given level of effort.

T-handles: T-shaped handles at the ends of a kayak. Handle for a capsized kayaker and for carrying a boat on land.

thigh braces: Padded surfaces beneath a kayak deck where a paddler can increase the contact area and force to stabilize and maneuver a boat.

tide and current tables: Predictions of water levels and current velocities.

tides: Rise and fall of sea levels caused by the combined effects of the moon and sun gravitational forces, as well as the earth’s rotation.

top hand: The hand opposite the paddling side of a kayak.

torque: Power generated through an arc.

touring kayaks: Sea kayaks designed for a wide variety of conditions, from protected waters to open ocean.

training zones: A target for a person’s heart rate at a variety of intensity levels.

ulna: Bone of the forearm.

ulnar deviation: The motion of reducing the wrist joint angle laterally between the elbow and little finger.

unfeathered: Blades of a kayak paddle are on the same plane, usually used in horizontal or low-angle paddling.

vertical angle: A paddle position where the tip of the blade in the water appears to be below the top hand, when viewed from the side.

vertical paddle orientation: Paddle position where the top hand is above the tip of the blade in the water.

vertical paddling style: Paddle has a more vertical, or higher angle, orientation.

Vessel Traffic Service (VTS) zones: The fairway, or designated area where ships must transit.

vortex: Turbulent flow of a fluid.

wake: A region of disturbed flow downstream of a solid body moving through a fluid.

weathercock (weathercocking): The tendency for a kayak to turn into a side wind: the bow tends to turn toward the wind and the stern to blow away from it.

wet exit: Exiting a kayak into the water after a capsize.

windward: A kayaker is between the source of the wind and shore. The shore is downwind.

yaw: Change in heading away from course.

Resources

INSTRUCTION

American Canoe Association, 108 Hanover St., Fredericksburg, VA 22401, 540-907-4460, www.americancanoe.org

British Canoe Union USA, 320 W. Saugerties Rd., Saugerties, NY 12477, 845-246-6817, www.bcuna.com

CanoeKayak Canada, 2197 Riverside Dr., Ste. 700, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada K1H 7X3, 613-260-1818, www.canoekayak.ca/splash

International Canoe Federation, Avenue de Rhodanie 54, CH 1007 Lausanne, Switzerland, +41 21 612 02 90, http://canoeicf.com/icf

National Association of State Boating Law Administrators, 1500 Leestown Rd., Ste. 330, Lexington, KY 40511, 859-225-9487, http://nasbla.org

USA Canoe/Kayak, 330 South Tryon St., Lower Level, Charlotte, NC 28202, 704-348-4330, http://usack.org

US CHARTS

General chart information: www.noaa.gov/charts.html

NOAA Office of Coast Survey: www.nauticalcharts.noaa.gov

NOAA Chart No. 1: www.nauticalcharts.noaa.gov/mcd/chartno1.htm#toc

CANADIAN CHARTS

Canadian Hydrographic Service: www.charts.gc.ca/index-eng.asp

General chart information: www.charts.gc.ca/charts-cartes/paper-papier/index-eng.asp

TIDE AND CURRENT PREDICTORS

University of South Carolina: http://tbone.biol.sc.edu/tide

NOAA: http://tidesandcurrents.noaa.gov/

Fisheries and Oceans (Canada): www.waterlevels.gc.ca/english/Canada.shtml

WEATHER FORECASTING

NOAA: www.nws.noaa.gov/om/marine/home.htm

University of Washington: www.atmos.washington.edu/data

Environment Canada: www.weatheroffice.gc.ca/canada_e.html

LEAVE NO TRACE

Leave No Trace, P.O. Box 997, Boulder, CO 80306, 303-442-8222, www.lnt.org

TRIP AND CAMPING INFORMATION

Check your state or provincial parks website for great launching and water access camping locations.

American Trails: www.americantrails.org/nationalrecreationtrails/waternrts.html

Parks Canada: www.pc.gc.ca

National Recreation and Parks Association: www.nrpa.org

SeaTrails: www.seatrails.com/

National Park Service: www.nps.gov/index.htm

MAGAZINES

Canoe & Kayak Magazine, 236 Avenida Fabricante, Ste. 201, San Clemente, CA 92672, www.canoekayak.com/

Sea Kayaker Magazine, PO Box 17029, Seattle, WA 98127-0729, 206-789-9536, www.seakayakermag.com/

Wavelength Magazine, #6-10 Commercial St., Nanaimo, BC, Canada V9R 5G2, 866-984-6437

BOOKS

Alderson, Doug. Sea Kayaker’s Savvy Paddler: More than 500 Tips for Better Kayaking. Camden, ME: Ragged Mountain Press, 2001.

______. and Michael Pardy. Sea Kayaker Magazine’s Handbook of Safety and Rescue. Camden, ME: Ragged Mountain Press, 2003.

Brown, Robert, ed. Boater’s Safety Handbook: American Outdoor Safety League. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 1982.

Broze, Matt, and George Gronseth. Sea Kayaker’s Deep Trouble: True Stories and Their Lessons from Sea Kayaker Magazine. Camden, ME: Ragged Mountain Press, 1997.

Burch, David. Fundamentals of Kayak Navigation: Master the Traditional Skills and the Latest Technologies. 4th ed. Guilford, CT: Falcon, 2008.

Dillion, Pamela, and Jeremy Oyen, eds. Kayaking. American Canoe Association. Champaign, IL: Human Kinetics, 2008.

Foster, Nigel. Canoeing: A Beginner’s Guide to the Kayak. West Sussex, England: Fernhurst Books, 1990.

______. Nigel Foster’s Sea Kayaking. West Sussex, England: Fernhurst Books, 1997.

Glickman, Joe. The Kayak Companion. North Adams, MA: Storey Publishing, 2003.

Harrison, Dave, ed. Kayak Touring. Mechanicsburg, PA: Stackpole Books, 1998.

Hutchinson, Derek, C. The Complete Book of Sea Kayaking. 5th ed. Guilford, CT: Globe Pequot, 1995.

Jones, Philip, N. Canoe and Kayak Routes of Northwest Oregon Including Southwest Washington. 3rd ed. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2007.

Killen, Ray. Simple Kayak Navigation: Practical Piloting for the Passionate Paddler. Camden, ME: Ragged Mountain Press, 2006.

Landers, Rich, and Dan Hansen. Paddle Routes to the Inland Northwest: 50 Flat-water and Whitewater Trips for Canoe & Kayak. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 1998.

______. Dan Hansen, Verne Huser, and Doug North. Paddling Washington: 100 Flatwater and Whitewater Routes in Washington State and the Inland Northwest. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2008.

Lull, John. Sea Kayaking Safety and Rescue. 2nd ed. Berkeley, CA: Wilderness Press, 2008.

Matthews, Alex. Sea Kayaking Rough Waters. Beachburg, ON: Heliconia Press, 2006.

Moyer, Lee. Sea Kayak Navigation Simplified. Snohomish, WA: AlpenBooks, 2001.

Mueller, Marge, and Ted Mueller. Afoot and Afloat: North Puget Sound and the Strait of Juan de Fuca. 3rd ed. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2006.

______. Afoot and Afloat: South Puget Sound and Hood Canal. 4th ed. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2006.

______. Afoot and Afloat: The San Juan Islands. 4th ed. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2003.

______. Afoot and Afloat: Seattle Lakes, Bays, and Waterways. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 1998.

Pardy, Michael, J. F. Marleau, Andrew Woodford, and Piper Harris. Navigation, Sea State and Weather: A Paddler’s Manual. North Saanich, BC: SKILS, 2010.

Schumann, Roger, and Jan Shriner. Sea Kayak Rescue. 2nd ed. Guilford, CT: Falcon, 2007.

Scriver, Mark, Wendy Grater, and Joanna Baker. Camp Cooking: The Black Feather Guide: Eating Well in the Wild. Beachburg, ON: The Heliconia Press, 2007.

Soles, Clyde. The Outdoor Knots Book. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2004.

Washburne, Randel, and R. Carey Gersten. Kayaking Puget Sound, the San Juans, and Gulf Islands: 50 Trips on the Northwest’s Inland Waters. 2nd ed. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 1999.

Weimer, Dian. The Paddling Chef: A Cookbook for Canoeists, Kayakers and Rafters. Beachburg, ON: The Heliconia Press, 2009.

The Ten Essentials Adapted for Sea Kayaking

1. navigation
Having a map/chart, and knowing how to use it are two different things; make sure you know how to read your maps and charts. A compass is an essential tool for chart and navigation. Read and keep the instructions that come with the compass. Paddlers may also choose to carry other navigational tools such as a Global Positioning System (GPS) receiver. A GPS is not a valid replacement for a map/chart and/or compass.

2. sun protection
Sunglasses will protect your eyes from the harmful effects of ultraviolet rays. This is particularly important on the water as the reflective light doubles the effect. Wear polarized sunglasses to see through the glare off the water. There is no shade on the water. A broad brimmed hat cuts glare and sun exposure. Use a waterproof sunscreen with an SPF of at least 25. Don’t forget lip sunscreen as well.

3. insulation
Carry an extra fleece jacket, pair of socks, warm hat, and gloves. A pair of dry tennis shoes or sandals might be comfortable on the beach.

4. illumination
A waterproof headlamp rather than a flashlight works best and leaves your hands free. You can wear it while paddling at night or when in camp. Batteries and bulbs do not last forever, so carry spares of both at all times.

5. first-aid supplies
Carry and know how to use a first-aid kit, but do not let a first-aid kit give you a false sense of security. The basic use will be to stabilize a situation, not do an operation, so it should be compact, waterproof, and sturdy. At a minimum, a first-aid kit should include gauze pads in various sizes, roller gauze, small adhesive bandages, butterfly bandages, triangular bandages, battle dressing (or Carlisle bandage), adhesive tape, scissors, cleansers or soap, latex gloves, and paper and pencil. Consider the length of your trip and distance from additional help when packing your kit.

6. fire
Bring a quantity of wooden or waterproof matches stored in a watertight container. Some paddlers carry a weatherproof butane lighter in addition to matches. Solid or paste chemical fuels which burn hot and light easily are reliable fire starters. A candle may work but not if the rain keeps putting it out. When you need emergency fire starter you will want the most aggressive technique available. Try it at home before you need it in an emergency situation.

7. repair kit and tools
Your knife will need to do many jobs so consider versatility when making your selection. A multi tool knife seems to be a good solution. And don’t forget the duct tape.

8. nutrition
Have a lunch for day paddles, snacks for throughout the paddle, and enough extra food to make you feel good if you have to stay out overnight.

9. hydration
Carry at least 2 liters of water—or more for hot days.

10. emergency shelter
Pack a space blanket, tarp, or tent even for day trips.

Sea Kayaker Magazine recommends the following essential gear for all kayaking outings:

1. sea kayak with flotation in both ends
Flotation can be compartments separated from the cockpit by bulkheads or bags specifically designed to provide the kayak flotation. A sea sock should be used in boats without bulkheads, but is not adequate flotation without float bags.

2. USCG-approved Personal Flotation Device (PFD)
Required by the Coast Guard, each paddler should wear a type III PFD while paddling.

3. paddle

4. spray skirt
A spray skirt is a waterproof cover designed to attach to the coaming (cockpit rim) of the kayak and your body. The purpose of the spray skirt is to keep paddle drips, rain, and large dumping waves out of your kayak. The skirt seals off the cockpit and traps in warm air, making it very useful.

5. bilge pump with flotation
Usually this is a hand pump device; however there are some foot operated pumps and even electric pumps for kayaks. A bilge pump is an indispensable tool for a self-rescue after what is commonly called a “wet exit.” Once you get back in the boat, use a bilge pump capable of 8–10 gallons per minute to quickly empty the swamped boat.

6. self-rescue paddle float
A paddle float is a heavy-duty PVC-coated nylon bag that, when used in conjunction with a paddle functions as an outrigger designed to stabilize your kayak. A paddle float consists of a mouthpiece for inflation, a pocket for inserting one end of a paddle, and a web strap to secure the float to the paddle shaft. While it is possible to re-enter without the use of flotation aids, a paddle float is key to quickly getting back in the boat. Paddle floats can also be found in nylon-covered foam eliminating the need to inflate but they are more bulky.

7. signaling device (audio)
A whistle is preferred; make sure yours is a marine whistle without a “pea.” Land whistles often won’t work if they get wet.

8. neck strap for glasses
Get one with some sort of flotation attached.

9. appropriate clothing for conditions
Clothing must tolerate getting wet. Consider water temperature as well as air temperature, wind and sun. Take layers to allow for changing weather.

10. waterproof bag for extra clothing
Dry bags are available from any kayak store in a full range of sizes and materials. Each material has its own merits. Another inexpensive alternative is a trash compactor bag. Their strength makes them a better choice than garbage bags.

In addition, Sea Kayaker Magazine strongly recommends that the following gear be carried:

1. spare paddle

2. rescue sling

3. emergency signaling device
Flares, smoke, dye, mirror, strobe, etc.

4. chemical light stick
Keep in mind that these have a shelf life of only a couple of years.

5. waterproof chart case
You can find these at kayak shops but many kayakers use a large ziplock plastic bag.

6. waterproof wrist watch

7. wet suit or dry suit

8. waterproof jacket
Jackets made specifically for paddling and made of coated nylon, Gore-Tex, or other fabrics, can be purchased from kayak shops. A plastic or nylon raincoat will work, get one with a tight wrist. Don’t forget a rain hat as well.

9. pogies or gloves

10. towing system
Kayak shops sell very good tow ropes or you can make your own with a 50-foot length of to ¼-inch thick polypropylene rope and two plastic, brass or stainless steel snap hooks. Secure a snap hook to each end of the rope by splicing eyes into the ends of the rope. Coil the rope neatly so it won’t become tangled.

11. VHF radio

12. weather radio

13. advance repair kit
Two rolls of duct tape; pliers; screwdriver (Phillips and spade); and a knife or “Leatherman” type tool. Use a plastic peanut butter jar to carry a few items just in case. Add some stainless steel nuts and bolts (1x¼-inch bolt) for possible rudder cable repair; plastic zip ties; etc. Wrap the duct tape around the outside of the jar to save space.

14. deck bag
Used to store miscellaneous gear while paddling.

15. paddle tether
Allows paddlers to have free hands without the danger of losing their paddle. The paddle leash can be attached to the kayaker or the kayak.

16. flares
Check Coast Guard recommendations and make sure the ones you purchase are suitable for handheld use; marine or kayak shops are good sources. These will expire in one to two years so you will need to replace them periodically.

17. toilet paper and plastic bags

18. hat with visor
A hat with a wide brim, preferably with neck protection, is good for sunny days. Add a strap to keep it on your head in the wind. On a cold day, a close fitting neoprene skull cap or lightweight polypro cap worn under your hat will help keep you warmer. Wear a neoprene cap when practicing wet exits and rescues.

Index

The index that appeared in the print version of this title was intentionally removed from the eBook. Please use the search function on your eReading device for terms of interest. For your reference, the terms that appear in the print index are listed below

A

accelerometer

adaptation

aerobic endurance exercise

aerobic training zone

Aids to Navigation

air

characteristics of

movement of

anaerobic metabolism

anterior pelvic tilt

assisted rescue

controlling the equipment

description of

grouping

stabilize safety conditions

ATP resynthesis

attire

attitude

autonomic nervous system

awareness

B

backpacking

backward ferrying

backward paddling

base layer, of clothing

bay

beach

beach surge zone

bilge pump

biofeedback

blade angle

boaters

body weight loading

bow rudder stroke

bow wake

brace

bracing

breakfast

broaching

bulkheads

bungee cords

buoyancy

buoys

C

camp/camping

drinking water for

food

gear for

kitchen

kitchen shelter for

latrine

loading kayak for

preparing for

setting up camp

shelter for

tent

can buoy

capsizing

carrying a kayak

Cartesian coordinates

catch

center of mass

chain of events

charts. See nautical charts

chine

cirrocumulus clouds

cirrostratus clouds

cirrus clouds

climbing in

closed kinematic chain

clothing

clouds

Coast Guard

coastal landforms

coastal waters

cocked hat

cockpit

cockpit rim

cold front

collision avoidance

colored nun buoy

combining strokes

communication devices

compass

deck-mounted

handheld

how to use

navigational use of

compass rose

conditioning

connective tissue

continuous training

contour lines

cookware

cool down

coordinate system

core muscles

counterrotation

course

distances

following

plotting a

course corrections

cruising speed

cumulonimbus clouds

currents

description of

following

launching and landing in

paddling across

paddling into

predicting

regional

rip

tables about

waves and

cyclical endurance activity

D

dead reckoning

deck bungee cords

deck hatches

deck-mounted compass

density

design characteristics

detraining

dinner

direction of force

displacement

distance scale

distress signals

divider

double kayaks

drag

draw stroke

drinking water

dry bags

dry suits

dumping waves

dynamic stability

E

ebb

eddies

eddy hopping

eddy line

eddy turn

edging

electronic navigation aids

emptying kayak of water

entering

eddies

kayak

equipment

camping

caring for

deck bungee cords

paddles. See paddle(s)

perimeter lines

safety

spray skirts

T-handles

Eskimo roll

estuaries

exercise. See also fitness

aerobic training zone

description of

intensity of

progression of

exercise sessions

exiting

eddies

kayak

F

fathoms

fatigue

feathered paddle

description of

home position on

ferrying

first aid

first-aid kits

fish form

fishing

fitness. See also exercise

aerobic training zone

concepts associated with

duration of

intensity of

overview of

progression of

fitness plan

flood

flotation

fluids

movable objects and

stationary objects and

following current

food

foot pedals

foot position

footwear

force

force curve

form

forward ferrying

forward force

forward stroke

description of

recovery phase of

forward sweep

fully loaded kayak

G

general prudential rule

general responsibility rule

glide/gliding

Global Positioning System receiver

gloves

group responsibility

grouping

guidebooks

H

hand position on paddles

description of

for horizontal-style paddling

for vertical-style paddling

handheld compass

hard chine

hatch covers

heading

headwind

high brace

high-angle catch

high-angle paddling

horizontal-style paddling

hula hips

hull cross section

hydration

I

initial stability

injuries

insulating layer, of clothing

intertidal zones

interval training

J

joint segments

K

kayak

carrying of

cockpit of

components of

composites used in

design characteristics of

double

entering of

exiting of

form of

getting back into

materials

packing gear into

parts of

securing of

single

stability of

starting

stopping

tandem

transporting of

types of

keyhole cockpits

kinematic chain

kitchen

kitchen shelter

L

laminar flow

latitude

latrine

launching and landing

in currents

description of

site selection for

in surf zone

leaning

Leave No Trace

life jacket

lights

line level

load

loading kayak

longitude

longshore bar

low brace

low-angle catch

lower intertidal zone

lubber line

lunch

M

magnetic declination

maneuvering

design characteristics for

stroke for

meals

Mercator projections

meridians of longitude

mid-power transmission phase

moment arm

muscle contraction

muscle coordination

muscle fibers

N

National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration

natural ranges

nautical charts

case for

compass rose

contour lines

coordinate system

description of

distance scale

elements of

essentials of

key

landmarks

latitude and longitude

Mercator projections

orientation of

scale of

sources of

symbols on

vessel traffic service zones

navigation

electronic aids for

importance of

route planning

rules and responsibilities of

navigation tools

charts. See nautical charts

compass. See compass

divider

parallel ruler

types of

neap tides

negative angle

nimbostratus clouds

nutrition

O

occluded front

offshore winds

onshore winds

outer layer, of clothing

overload

oxygen

P

paddle(s)

feathered

hand position on

holding of

materials

parts of

rudder with

as safety equipment

sizes of

take-apart

unfeathered

paddle blades

description of

optimal position of

paddle close

paddle float

description of

rescue using

paddle leash

paddle shafts

paddle wide

paddling

backward

balancing of movements during

course corrections during

currents

doubles

efficiency in

high-angle

horizontal-style

leaning backward during

leaning forward during

learning

power during

power transmission

singles

straight

stroke cycle

styles of

vertical-style

parallel ruler

parallels of latitude

pelagic coast

peninsula

perimeter lines

periodization plan

physical condition

piloting

pitching

pivot point

pivoting

plotting a course

pocket booklet tide tables

pogies

position (navigational)

positive angle

power application phase, of stroke cycle

power generation

power transmission

preactivating of muscles

progression of exercise

pronation

R

radio

recovery phase, of stroke cycle

recreational kayaks

regional currents

repair kits

repeat training

rescue

assisted. See assisted rescue

description of

paddle float

self-rescue

T-

rest periods

reverse sweep

right-of-way

rip currents

river delta

rocker

rollers

rolling in

roof racks

description of

loading kayak on

tying down on

rotation

route planning

rudder

description of

paddle as

skeg versus

rudder cable

rudder stroke

rule of good seamanship

S

safety

attitude and

awareness and

chain of events

description of

eddies used for

external conditions that affect

first-aid kits

safety equipment

sagittal plane

sandbars

sea kayaking

secondary stability

securing of kayak

self-awareness

self-rescue

setup

shelter

shore break

shoreline

side slip

side wind

sideways

movements

paddling, into swell

turning

sideways force

signaling devices

single kayaks

sitting position

skeletal muscles

skills

description of

dynamic stability

skin-on-frame kayaks

skirts

skeg

slack

sleeping bag

sleeping pad

snacks

soft chine

soundings

specificity

spilling waves

spit

spray skirts

spring tides

stability

starting

steeper

steering

stern rudder stroke

stern wake

stirrup

stove

stratocumulus clouds

stratus clouds

stretching

stroke

boat handling strokes and

combining

description of

draw

forward. See forward stroke

forward sweep

maneuvering use of

power generation

reverse sweep

stroke cycle

stroke rate

supination

surf zone

description of

launching and landing in

tips for

surface area

surfing with a swell

swede form

sweep roll

swells

description of

paddling into

surfing with

topping of

T

tailwind

take-apart paddles

tandem kayaks

tarp

team paddling

teardrop cockpits

technical efficiency

Ten Essentials

tent

T-handles

thirst

Thule Hullavator

tidal levels

tide(s)

description of

height measurements

predicting

tide tables

toilet

torque

torso rotation

touring kayaks

tow

tow line

towing

tracking

trailers

training zones

transporting of kayak

T-rescue

trip plan

turning

tying down

U

ulnar deviation

unfeathered paddle

upright paddling position

V

velocity of movement

vertical angle

vertical direction of force

vertical-style paddling

vessel traffic service zones

vessels

visibility

V-line

volume

vortex

W

wake

warm front

warm up

water

characteristics of

movement of

water (drinking)

waves

currents and

description of

topping of

weather

weathercocking

web-based tide tables

wet exit

wet suits

wheelies

wind

wood kayak

wrist position, for vertical-style paddling

Y

yaw

About the Author

Dan Henderson is the president of Cascade Canoe & Kayak Centers, Inc. and a world leader in research and understanding of kayak forward stroke efficiency. His graduate work in exercise science at Western Washington University focused on the biomechanics of the kayak stroke. He presented his biomechanics research at the 2009 International Canoe Federation (the world and Olympic governing body for kayak and canoe racing) Coaching Symposium in Warsaw, Poland.

Through Cascade Canoe & Kayak Centers, Dan shares his love of paddling with extensive instructional programs, hourly rentals, guide service, and youth and adult racing teams. He also coaches racing teams and worked for USA Canoe/Kayak, which trains Olympic hopefuls, as National Development Coach, Junior Worlds Coach, and Senior Worlds Team Leader.

As a member of the USA Canoe/Kayak Team in the mid-1980s Dan won numerous National Championships as well as four bronze Pan American Championships medals. He continues to race at the Masters level and has won many more National Championships at that level. In addition to competitions, Dan enjoys multiday trips and completed a two-hundred-mile sea kayak adventure from Renton, Washington to Port Renfrew on Vancouver Island, British Columbia.

Dan is the co-author of the International Canoe Federation Coaching Manual and author of many articles on paddling technique. He serves as the Human Powered Craft Representative to the Washington State Boating Safety Commission, which advises state government on boating safety legislation, regulations and management.

Dan grew up in San Mateo and Fremont, California and served his country in the US Air Force Air Rescue Service. He has been married for 29 years to Krin, his best friend and soul mate, and has lived in Seattle since 1988.

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