Reef Smart Guides Bonaire: Scuba Dive. Snorkel. Surf.
Date: 2018-12-15 06:00:00+00:00
Description: The Definitive Guide to Bonaire Scuba Diving and Snorkeling "With a mapping style and key information presented in a way that really prepares you for each dive site, this book is exactly what divers want." – Ocean Frontiers #1 Best Seller in Water Sports & Caribbean From the authors of the Reef Smart Guide series comes Reef Smart Guides: Bonaire , a unique and essential scuba, snorkel, and surf travel guide for Bonaire diving. A great Caribbean travel guide. The ultimate travel guide for beach and marine activities in Bonaire. The detailed descriptions and illustrations of beaches, coral reefs
Publisher: Mango Media

1

BONAIRE

SCUBA DIVE SNORKEL SURF

Ian POPPLE

Peter McDougall

Otto WAGNER

Copyright © 2018 Reef Smart Inc.

www.reefsmartguides.com

Published by Mango Publishing Group, a division of Mango Media Inc.

Series concept and writer: Ian Popple

Art concept and illustrations: Otto Wagner

Writer: Peter McDougall

3D models: Emil Stezar

Editing: Peter McDougall, Kris Garland

Front cover photo Nick Polanszky Photo/Shutterstock ©

Back cover photo Otto Wagner/Reef Smart ©

Mango is an active supporter of authors’ rights to free speech and artistic expression in their books. The purpose of copyright is to encourage authors to produce exceptional works that enrich our culture and our open society.

Uploading or distributing photos, scans or any content from this book without prior permission is theft of the author’s intellectual property. Please honor the author’s work as you would your own. Thank you in advance for respecting our author’s rights.

For permission requests, please contact the publisher at:

Mango Publishing Group

2850 Douglas Road, 3rd Floor

Coral Gables, FL 33134 USA
info@mango.bz

For special orders, quantity sales, course adoptions and corporate sales, please email the publisher at sales@mango.bz. For trade and wholesale sales, please contact Ingram Publisher Services at customer.service@ingramcontent.com or +1.800.509.4887.

Bonaire: Scuba Dive. Snorkel. Surf.

ISBN: (print) 978-1-63353-980-8, (ebook) 978-1-63353-981-5

Printed in the United States of America

4

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

BONAIRE

Acknowledgments

Reef Smart is indebted to numerous individuals and organizations who contributed their advice, knowledge, artwork and support to the production of this guidebook. We would particularly like to thank Frederick Vloeberghs and Joyce Sonnevelt at Palm Trading and Paul Coolen at Buddy Dive Resort and Sapias Holding Ltd. Their support and valuable insight was crucial to the completion of this book. Augusto Montbrun and the professional and talented dive team at Buddy Dive Resort were always available to provide advice and frequently helped our mapping team reach dive sites during our data-collection trips. We are also grateful to numerous recreational divers, too many to name, who happened to be visiting Bonaire during our fieldwork and were happy to share their experiences on all aspects of the island, from the dive sites to the Relax & Recharge options. We would like to mention Paul Kapsos in particular, as he accompanied us as we mapped a number of locations featured in this book. We would like to thank the representatives of STINAPA and the Coral Restoration Foundation Bonaire who responded to questions or reviewed text. Joyce Sonnevelt and Kris Garland conducted a thorough, cover to cover review and provided editorial advice and insight that greatly improved the manuscript.

About Reef Smart:

Reef Smart creates detailed guides of the marine environment, particularly coral reefs and shipwrecks, for recreational divers, snorkelers and surfers. Our products are available as printed guidebooks, waterproof cards, wall posters, dive briefing charts and 3D interactive maps, which can be used on websites and as apps. Reef Smart also provides additional services to resorts that are dedicated to offering an environmentally aware experience for their guests; these include marine biology training for dive professionals and resort staff, implementation of coral reef monitoring and restoration programs, and the development of sustainable use practices that reduce the impact of operations on the natural environment.

www.reefsmartguides.com

5

How to use this book6

Our “blue planet”8

About Bonaire9

Location and formation9

The history of Bonaire 10

Bonaire today11

Getting there and getting around 12

Environment13

Ecosystems14

Marine conservation and management16

Coral Restoration Foundation 18

Washington Slagbaai National Park20

Bonaire beaches24

In case of emergency26

Emergency contacts 26

Pharmacies27

Kiteboarding28

Diving and snorkeling 30

Diving and snorkeling services 32

Boka Bartól 36

Boka Katuna38

Playa Bengé40

Playa Funchi42

Bisé Morto44

Wayaká II 46

Boka Slagbaai48

Playa Frans52

Nukove (Doblet)54

Carel’s Vision56

Tailor Made58

Candyland62

Karpata64

La Dania’s Leap 68

Rappel70

Bloodlet 72

Tolo (Ol’ Blue)74

Country Garden78

Bon Bini Na Kas 80

1000 Steps82

Weber’s Joy (Witches Hut) 86

Jeff Davis Memorial88

Kalli’s Reef 92

Oil Slick Leap94

Barcadera98

Andrea II100

Andrea I102

Petrie’s Pillar104

Small Wall106

Coopers Barge110

The Cliff116

La Machaca 120

Reef Scientifico / Buddy’s Reef 124

Bari / Front Porch128

Something Special (Pali Grande)134

Calabas Reef 138

18th Palm 140

Windsock (Donkey Beach)142

Corporal Meiss (North Belnem) 146

Bachelor’s Beach (Fondu Di Kalki)148

TABLE OF CONTENTS

BONAIRE

Chez Hines 154

Lighthouse Point 156

Punt Vierkant 158

The Lake160

Hilma Hooker164

Angel City170

Alice in Wonderland174

Aquarius178

Larry’s Lair 180

Jeannie’s Glory 182

Salt Pier184

Salt City190

Invisibles194

Tori’s Reef198

Pink Beach (Kabayé)200

White Slave 202

Wanda204

Margate Bay206

Red Beryl210

Atlantis212

Fish Hut214

Vista Blue216

Sweet Dreams220

Soft Coral Garden222

Hidden Beach224

Yellow Hut226

Chogogo228

Red Slave230

Willemstoren Lighthouse234

White Hole236

About Klein Bonaire238

South Bay242

Species246

6

Objective

The main objective of this guide is to provide a resource for people, particularly divers, snorkelers, kiteboarders and wind surfers who are interested in exploring the marine environment of Bonaire. This guide is designed to be used alongside Reef Smart waterproof cards, which can be taken into the water. This guide will be most useful for watersports enthusiasts but also includes information that any visitor to Bonaire will find useful.

Mapping

We have attempted to catalog all the island’s dive and snorkel sites as well as its beaches, kiteboarding and wind surfing spots. However, only what we consider to be the top dive and snorkel sites in Bonaire have been featured in more detail using Reef Smart’s unique 3D-mapping technology. These maps provide useful information such as depths, currents, waves, suggested routes, potential hazards, unique structures and species information, which cannot be found in other guides. The maps in this guidebook are listed from north to south.

Disclaimer

Reef Smart guides are for recreational use only – they are not navigational charts and should not be used as such. We have attempted to provide accurate and up-to-date information for each site, as well as activities to enjoy in the surrounding areas. However, businesses close and new ones open, prices are adjusted and change is inevitable in the marine environment. The information contained in this guide is accurate only at the time of publication. The size and location of structures may vary. Depths and distances are approximated in both metric and imperial units, and the suggested route is optional. Reef Smart assumes no responsibility for inaccuracies and omissions, and assumes no liability for the use of these maps.

Information boxes

Additional information for the featured sites is provided in the form of special information boxes, which appear throughout the book:

DID YOU KNOW?

Interesting facts about the site or the surrounding area.

SAFETY TIP

Advice that aims to improve safety.

ECO TIP

Information that will help limit damage to the ecosystem or improve environmental awareness.

RELAX & RECHARGE

Information on where refreshments can be purchased, or where to unwind on land.

SCIENTIFIC INSIGHT

Information of a scientific nature that can help you understand what you see and experience.

Map icons

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK

How to use this book

SCUBA dive

Snorkel

Access by boat

Access by swim

Wreck

Access by car

Kiteboard

Wind surf

ECO TIP

We hope this guide enhances your in-water experience. Share your passion for exploring the marine environment with others, because our oceans, and particularly coral reefs, need all the “likes” they can get. Coral reefs, as well as mangrove and seagrass ecosystems, are under serious pressure from a multitude of

threats that include coastal development, pollution, over-fishing and global climate change. Some estimates put over half the world’s remaining coral reefs at significant risk of being lost in the next 25 years; raising awareness can help protect them.

BONAIRE

7

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK

Species identification

The species listed for each location were chosen to represent the most unique or common organisms found at each site, as determined from personal observations, discussions with divers and snorkelers who have experienced these sites,
and from scientific studies conducted in these

areas. Many of the species described in this publication are mobile or cryptic (or both), and so may not always be found where indicated. However, we have attempted to place key species on each map in the locations where they are most commonly found.

Species description

The species letters and numbers on each map link to descriptions located at the back of the book (on pages 246-276). Reef Smart uses the most frequently cited common name for a species. As common names vary from place to place, we have also provided the scientific name for each species, which remains the same worldwide. Scientific names are usually of Latin or Greek origin and consist of two words: a genus name followed by a species name. By definition, a species is a group of organisms that can reproduce together such

that it results in fertile offspring; a genus is a group of closely related species.

The descriptions of each species are based on the scientific literature as it existed at the time of publication. Scientific knowledge often advances, however, and the authors welcome any information that helps improve or correct future editions of this guidebook. In-depth species profiles, including images and videos, are available for free on our website – Reefsmartguides.com.

BONAIRE

8

A view of the water near downtown Kralendijk

OUR “BLUE PLANET”

Our “blue planet”

BONAIRE

Oceans

Water covers nearly three-quarters of our planet’s surface and approximately 96 percent of this water is contained in the major oceans of the world. Together, the oceans drive our planet’s weather, regulate its climate and provide us with breathable air, which ultimately supports every living creature on Earth.

The oceans are vital to our global economy. They produce the food that billions of people depend on for survival, while also being a source of resources, including valuable medicines that treat a wide range of ailments and diseases. The oceans also drive local and regional economies through tourism. Every year, millions of travelers are drawn to coastal regions to enjoy activities above the water and to explore what lies below the surface. Considering how important the oceans are to our way of life, it is incredible how little we know about what lies beneath the sea.

Coral reefs

The oceans include a wide range of different ecosystems, but perhaps the most frequently visited marine ecosystems of all are coral reefs. Coral reefs are known as the rainforests of the sea for good reason – they are one of the most diverse ecosystems on the planet, supporting nearly a quarter of all known ocean species. This figure is even more astounding when you consider that coral reefs comprise just a fraction of one percent of the ocean floor. They are also particularly vulnerable to degradation, given they are only found in a narrow window of temperature, salinity and depth.

Humans have studied the biology and physiology of corals for decades, but the underwater environment remains largely foreign to most people. Fact is, we have more accurate maps of the surface of Mars than we do of the seafloor. And guides of the marine environment suitable for recreational users are almost non-existent.

Reef Smart aims to change this situation. Our detailed guides seek to educate snorkelers and divers alike. Our goal is to improve safety and enhance the marine experience by allowing users to discover the unique features and species that can be found at each site.

Preserve and protect

Hopefully our guidebooks and waterproof dive guides will help you get to know the underwater
environment in general, and reefs in particular. We feel that the more people can come to appreciate the beauty of the underwater world, the more they will be willing to take steps to protect and preserve it.

The world’s oceans are experiencing incredible pressures from all sides. Rising temperatures, increasing acidification and an astonishing volume of plastics that end up in both the water and marine organisms are endangering these precious resources.

Yes there are some big problems to overcome. But we can do this. Each and every one of us can make a difference in the choices we make. And together we can help make sure the beauty of the coral reefs of this world are still around for future generations of snorklers and divers to enjoy.

Sincerely, the Reef Smart team

9

ABOUT BONAIRE

Location and formation

Bonaire is located to the west of the Caribbean island chain known as the Lesser Antilles. It is 25 miles (40 kilometers) east of Curaçao and 50 miles (80 kilometers) north of the coast of Venezuela, this small, remote island has established a reputation as an international dive destination. Bonaire is considered by many divers to have the best shore diving in the Caribbean, and possibly even the world, with something for everyone mere steps from the beach.

The island is flat, rocky and dry. Its highest point tops out at just 784 feet (241 meters) above sea level, and it has a total area of 113 square miles (290 square kilometers). It measures 17 miles (27 kilometers) from north to south and varies in width from 3 to 7 miles (5 and 11 kilometers) with a shape that vaguely resembles a boot with its toes pointing south. Bonaire’s rocks are volcanic in origin, dating back to the Cretaceous period that
ended more than 65 million years ago. This mass of rock, known as the Washikemba formation, was pushed up toward the surface of the water after shifts in the underlying tectonic plates raised the surrounding continental shelf shortly after the Eocene epoch, a period that ended more than 33 million years ago.

Marine sediment settled on the volcanic rocks eventually covering it in layers of limestone. Coral reefs formed during various parts of the Pleistocene era, which dates from 2.6 million years ago to just 11,700 years ago. As sea levels rose and fell during this time, the limestone and reef covering the island eroded away. Evidence of this process is visible today in the terraces (Lower, Middle and Higher Terraces) that appear around the island, most notably in the northeastern regions of the national park. The original volcanic rock lies exposed in some parts of the island, while others still have their limestone covering. The corals shifted along with the changing sea level and are now restricted to the waters surrounding the island.

Paulo Miguel Costa/Shutterstock©

About Bonaire

BONAIRE

10

ABOUT BONAIRE

BONAIRE

The history of Bonaire

Bonaire’s recorded history began with the arrival of the Spanish in 1499, led by Spanish explorer Alonso de Ojeda and his Italian counterpart, Amerigo Vespucci. But the island’s history began well before that year.

Early history

The first human presence on Bonaire dates back to 2,500 BC with the presence of the Arkaiko Indians. Later, the Caquetios Indians, a branch of the Arawak Indians who settled across much of the southern Caribbean, arrived in Bonaire between 800 AD and 1,000 AD, traveling by canoe from the coast of what is now Venezuela. They left their mark in the form of petroglyphs and cave paintings at many sites around the island. When the Spanish conquered the three islands of Aruba, Curaçao and Bonaire, they captured and enslaved the local indigenous population, and sent them to work the plantations and mines of Hispaniola.

Originally deemed useless by the Spaniards, Bonaire eventually became a cattle plantation, with the arrival of repatriated Caquetio Indians and domesticated animals. The few Spanish who remained on the island lived in the interior, in the village of Rincón. The island was eventually ceded to the Dutch in 1636 and was later resettled with African slaves.

Bonaire changed ownership multiple times due to the shifting European politics of the 18th century. In 1816, the island returned to Dutch control once and for all, and quickly developed into a major production center for salt. The economic growth did not last long, however, since the end of the slave trade just a few decades later shut the industry down for nearly a century.

Recent history

Bonaire’s economy began to find its legs after the island’s government built its first ship’s pier in the harbor at the turn of the century. The new pier allowed cruise liners to discharge passengers directly to shore and it ushered in a new commercial era for the island, along with making it easier to bring in supplies to the island’s permanent residents. Construction of hotels and a modern airport helped establish Bonaire as a tourist destination in the years following the Second World War.

Salt production resumed in the 1960s and the tourism industry has gradually increased, particularly since the rise in popularity of recreational SCUBA diving and snorkeling.

Until recently, Bonaire has been part of the constituent country of the Netherlands Antilles. As of 2010, however, and after a referendum and a great many constitutional discussions, the Netherlands Antilles was dissolved. Bonaire, along with St. Eustabius and Saba, is now a municipality

Middle terrace I

Higher terrace

Washikemba formation

Modern sea level

Lower
terrace

Diagram of the geology of Bonaire

Middle terrace II

Historic
sea level

Reef

11

ABOUT BONAIRE

of the Netherlands. This means Bonaire residents have the same rights (and follow the same laws) as Dutch citizens living in continental Europe. By comparison, Curaçao, Aruba and St. Maarten opted to become autonomous countries within the kingdom of the Netherlands, with their own separate governments.

Bonaire today

Population

Bonaire has a population of nearly 20,000 people, which is experiencing a modest growth rate. The island’s economy is largely dependent on tourism (thanks mainly to its mild, dry climate and stunning coral reefs). As a result, residents are outnumbered by the island’s more than 350,000 annual visitors. The island’s other major economic sectors include oil transference and salt production.

The basics

The official language of Bonaire is Dutch, although residents also speak their own local language of Papiamentou, which is a mix of Dutch, Spanish, French, English and Portuguese, among others. This language is shared with the residents of nearby Curaçao and Aruba. English is widely

One of the famous yellow painted rocks that mark the dive sites of Bonaire

spoken in Bonaire, and Spanish speakers should have little trouble making themselves understood, given that Papiamentou has strong Spanish roots.

The electricity supply in Bonaire is not quite a match for either North American or European standards: 127 volts / 50 hertz. The outlets are designed for both European and U.S. standard plugs, and most appliances should work well enough. But travelers may want to purchase (or rent) converters and surge protectors while on the island to help protect their more sensitive electronics due to any differences in voltage. The internet is widely available, with a number of free Wi-Fi zones established around the island. Tap water is safe to drink and is generated through desalination – a process where the salt and minerals in seawater are filtered out, leaving clean freshwater.

Visitors

Nearly two-thirds of the island’s visitors arrive via cruise ship while the remainder primarily arrive by plane. Bonaire is also a popular destination for private yachts. Visitors originate from North America and other parts of the kingdom of the Netherlands for the most part, with the balance visiting from Latin America and Europe.

Reef Smart ©

BONAIRE

Middle terrace I

Higher terrace

Washikemba formation

Modern sea level

Lower
terrace

Diagram of the geology of Bonaire

Middle terrace II

Historic
sea level

Reef

12

The yellow facade of Rincón’s St. Louis Bertrand Church

Getting there and getting around

Getting there

The island is a popular cruise destination; you will often see a cruise ship towering over
downtown Kralendijk, the island’s capital and main city. Bonaire has one airport, Flamingo International Airport (BON), which is most frequently reached via connections through Curaçao or Aruba. Direct flights are possible

DID YOU KNOW

For each dive and snorkel site in this guidebook, we describe how to get there by providing directions and time estimates from downton Kralendijk. We selected the corner of Kaya Gobernandor Nicolaas Debrot and Kaya L.D. Gerharts
as the starting point. Please adjust your driving times and directions based on where you are staying on the island. We have also provided GPS locations for each site. Wherever possible, GPS for the shore-accessible sites are in the parking lot, while those sites only accessible by boat feature the location of the buoy.

ABOUT BONAIRE

BONAIRE

13

Andy Troy/Shutterstock ©

from Amsterdam and from select North American cities, including Toronto, New York, Miami, Atlanta and Houston.

Getting around

Bonaire has no public transit system. Visitors can use a taxi (call one by dialing +599-717-8100) or, more commonly, can rent a car or truck from one of the major rental agencies on the island. Renting a pickup truck is most popular among divers in Bonaire given the accessibility of shore diving sites and the ability to carry plenty of tanks and gear safely in the bed of the truck. Reserve your choice ahead of time, particularly if you require one with an automatic transmission,
as standard transmission cars far outnumber automatics on the island. North Americans will be comforted to learn that driving is on the right side of the road, although do not be surprised by the absence of traffic lights – Bonaire relies on traffic circles or roundabouts to manage traffic flow through intersections.

Scooters, quads (four-wheel all-terrain vehicles) and pedal bicycles of various formats are also available for rent. It does not often rain on the island outside of the rainy season (from December through March), but when it does rain, the roads can get very slippery. Be careful and obey the speed limits (which are posted in kilometers per hour). Roads are also narrow and not always in the best shape – particularly some of the dirt roads that service the sites in the northwest. Also, pay attention to road signage: In particular, the Queen’s Highway converts from a two-way to a one-way road at the 1000 Steps dive site. Once past that point, you will have to continue along the highway to Karpata before heading north to Rincón and looping back to Kralendijk by way of the Kaminda Sabana Piedra Krus road, which briefly runs along the east coast.

Environment

Weather

Bonaire has a very dry and mild climate, with consistently warm temperatures no matter the time of year. Average highs range from 90°F (32°C) in August down to 86°F (30°C) in December and January. Average lows show little variation from month to month, ranging from 77°F (25°C) to 81°F (27°C) throughout the year. Bonaire’s rainy season is from December through March, and though a regular daily shower might be expected during this time, the rain does not stick around for long. Bonaire lies outside the Caribbean hurricane belt.

Water temperatures in Bonaire are also quite stable throughout the year. They average around 79°F (26°C) in February and March, and 84°F (29°C) in September and October. Many divers wear only a rash-guard for protection. But if you get cold easily, consider bringing a wetsuit or renting one from a local dive center.

Waves and visibility

Bonaire experiences a steady, easterly trade wind for most of the year. As a result, the protected west coast rarely experiences large waves or rough seas while the less-developed east coast has very strong surf. The latter is

ABOUT BONAIRE

BONAIRE

14

ABOUT BONAIRE

BONAIRE

Natural mangroves line many of the coastal roads in southern Bonaire

Reef Smart ©

exposed to the full force of the wind except during late August and September, when the trade winds change direction and blow from the west. The corals of Bonaire thrive in the protected lee of the island. Another factor that contributes to the high quality of the reef is the crystal-clear waters. Visibility often exceeds 80 feet (25 meters) and great viz paired with steady sunshine and white coral sand turn the waters between the shore and the fringing reef a gorgeous azure-blue color that people have come to expect from a tropical paradise.

Currents and tides

The tidal cycle in Bonaire is mild, measuring a mere foot to a foot and a half (less than a meter). It is enough to make a difference in some of the entry points over shallow reefs, but nothing that will unduly impact a day of diving. Currents along the west coast are typically light, although there can be a strong long-shore current along the island’s many reef walls. A few dive sites near the far south of the island and in the extreme north regularly experience strong currents, particularly where the east coast currents wrap around either end of the island and come into contact with the calmer waters of the west coast.

Ecosystems

Coral reefs

All of Bonaire’s reefs are fringing reefs, meaning

15

ABOUT BONAIRE

BONAIRE

A view of the pink salt ponds from above the Cargill Salt Works

Andy Troy/Shutterstock ©

they are situated close to shore – sometimes just 30 feet (10 meters) from the shoreline. Most reefs start relatively shallow and descend at a steep angle, and some of them form true walls that descend almost vertically down to depths of 130 feet (40 meters) or more.

The shallow back reef area between the reef line and the shore is often filled with soft corals and healthy stands of staghorn coral – a sign of the quality of Bonaire’s reefs. Elkhorn coral replaces the staghorn in areas with stronger currents and wave action. This type of habitat offers protection to small juvenile reef fishes. And the proximity of this nursery habitat to the reef wall helps promote the diversity and abundance of reef species throughout the whole ecosystem.

Mangroves

Bonaire has small areas of mangrove habitat near the southern end of the island, along the stretch of coastal road to the south and around the saliñas in the north. A much larger mangrove
system thrives on the east coast of the island in the shallow waters of Lac Bay. Mangroves help stabilize coastal shorelines and prevent erosion from damaging the nearby reef systems. Do not damage any mangrove trees as you access dive sites from the shore and pay attention to the delicate aerial roots that may be underfoot if you are crossing a saliña to reach a shore dive. Park only in designated areas to avoid damaging the surrounding mangrove ecosystem.

The east coast mangrove ecosystem is located in Lac Bay. It is one of the best-preserved mangrove ecosystems in the Caribbean. The nearby Bonaire Mangrove Center (Mangrovecenter.com) offers guided kayak and boat tours throughout the day on every day of the week except Sunday, when the center is closed. Snorkeling tours are also provided through the mangrove channel and out across the adjacent seagrass beds. The Lac Bay mangroves are part of a system of marine protected areas and terrestrial parks that cover nearly 60 percent of Bonaire.

16

DID YOU KNOW?

One reason for the remarkable health and quality of Bonaire’s fringing reefs is the fact that the island shelters the west coast from the high winds that almost exclusively come from the east. In the absence of high winds, the surf is rarely strong, which allows the corals to survive and thrive. Another reason: the
low degree of development and lack of large-scale agriculture means there is little by way of nutrient-rich runoff to promote algal growth, which can outcompete corals for space on the reef. Last – but certainly not least – Bonaire has been very proactive in helping protect its reef resources and surrounding waters as far back as the 1960s, which helped sustain the country’s coral reefs.

ABOUT BONAIRE

BONAIRE

Marine conservation and management

Bonaire fringing reefs are home to more than 350 species of reef fishes and almost every species of hard and soft coral present in the Caribbean. The island is considered a biodiversity hotspot in the Caribbean and has earned an international reputation for not just the quality of its diving but its successful conservation programs as well – proof positive that tourism and conservation can be mutually beneficial forces. The Bonaire government takes their duty to manage these resources seriously, and the nation has undertaken many conservation and management initiatives to protect the environment. In fact, the

Bonaire model is considered so successful that the United Nations Environment Program (UNEP) has designated it a demonstration site, and the model was the basis for a similar program in Indonesia.

STINAPA

Stichting Nationale Parken (STINAPA) Bonaire is a non-governmental organization tasked with managing the island’s two main national parks: the Bonaire National Marine Park (Marine Park) and the Washington Slagbaai National Park (see page 20). Divers must pay a $25 USD user or entrance fee – the government refers to it as a Nature Fee – which is payable once per year to any local dive center, hotel activity desk or the company organizing an activity in the marine

A stretch of the northwestern coast showcasing its lack of development

Isabelle Kuehn/Shutterstock ©

17

ABOUT BONAIRE

BONAIRE

park. Other users of the Marine Park must pay a $10 USD fee. And if you only plan on diving for one or two days or only wish to enter the National Park for a day, then a $10 USD one-day user fee is an alternative to paying the full price. You will receive a small medallion that you must attach to your dive gear as proof of payment. Park rangers may ask to see that tag. Hold on to the receipt since that will grant you access to the Washington Slagbaai National Park.

Bonaire National Marine Park

The Marine Park encompasses the waters around Bonaire, including the harbor and the less developed east coast. The Marine Park was first established in 1979, but it quickly ran into financial challenges and was left without any day-to-day management. With the increase in dive-related tourism in the 1990s, efforts to finance the park and put it on a sustainable footing succeeded in revitalizing management and providing the island’s reefs with a level of protection necessary to keep them healthy.
The management of Bonaire’s coastal waters also includes two marine reserves. These stretches of coastline are off limits to divers even though they include a few well-known dives, such as the Windjammer wreck in the northwest part of the island just beyond Karpata. STINAPA occasionally issues permits to dive these sites for the purposes of research and monitoring, but they are not accessible to the general public and so are not described in detail in this guidebook.

Please respect the diving restrictions in these areas. The purpose of the marine reserves is to provide a control group should the reefs in Bonaire begin to show signs of degradation. The lack of diver pressure in these regions is an important part of maintaining a healthy reef system in Bonaire, so we strongly encourage divers to respect the rules regarding no diving in the reserves.

The rules and regulations for the Marine Park are in place to help protect the corals for future generations. Please respect the rules and do your part to keep Bonaire one of the top shore-diving destinations in the world.

Diving in Bonaire carries with it a few very important rules that all divers and snorkelers must follow.

They include:

All divers must attend an orientation at the dive center where they have their tanks filled, including information about the island and the rules regarding diving, as well as an in-water check out dive to demonstrate buoyancy control among other basic skills.

Spear fishing is prohibited, and you must leave your gear with a customs official when you arrive.

Collecting or removing anything, alive or dead, from the water is strictly prohibited. This includes dead coral you may come across on the beach.

Divers must maintain control of their buoyancy to avoid touching or damaging the coral, or kicking up sediment from the bottom that might smother the coral or damage other marine habitats, such as seagrass beds.

Divers and snorkelers are not permitted to wear gloves while in the water, with only a few medical exceptions that require a permit from the STINAPA headquarters near Oil Slick Leap.

Chemical night sticks are not permitted in the waters of the Marine Park.

Do not disturb or otherwise interfere with turtles either in the water or as they nest on land, including on the beaches of Klein Bonaire.

Do not light campfires on the beach.

Do not anchor anywhere in the Marine Park – mooring buoys are provided at all sites accessible by boat, and are available on a first-come, first-served basis for boats under 45 feet (15 meters) and for a maximum of 2 hours. No overnighting.

Boats must navigate to the seaward side of the mooring buoys, remaining in the dark water.

18

Coral Restoration Foundation

Courtesy of Beth Watson ©

Coral Restoration Foundation

Nursery

CRF Bonaire hangs fragments of critically endangered corals from underwater tree structures that act as nurseries. These fragments grow until they are ready to be outplanted to Bonaire’s natural reefs.

Since its inception, Coral Restoration Foundation Bonaire (CRF Bonaire) has been dedicated to restoring Bonaire’s coral reefs through innovative coral nurseries and resoration techniques. What began in 2012 as a small project involving a few coral pieces in a single nursery at a local dive center, has now expanded to include more than 13,000 corals in nurseries placed around Bonaire, and over 20,000 corals outplanted back onto the island’s reefs. The project operates within the Bonaire National Marine Park with the support of a number of local dive centers and many volunteers.

BONAIRE

19

Coral Restoration Foundation

Outplanting

Once healthy corals reach “reef-ready” size they are ready to be outplanted. CRF Bonaire divers remove the now large coral fragments from the nursery and transport them to reefs around the island that need restoring. Once at these restoration sites, trained divers reattach the corals using different methods depending on the substrate available.

Get Involved

As a non-profit organization, CRF Bonaire relies heavily on volunteers to help complete its work. Any certified diver can be trained as a Coral Restoration Diver and volunteer to help restore Bonaire’s coral reefs.

To find out more, contact
info@crfbonaire.org.

Courtesy of David Fishman ©

Courtesy of Federico Cabello ©

Courtesy of David Fishman ©

BONAIRE

20

Reef Smart ©

Green iguanas are common at some of the beaches in the National Park

Bonaire’s National Park covers just under 14,000 acres (more than 565 square kilometers) of the island’s northwestern region – an area just smaller than the size of Manhattan New York. Originally known as Washington National Park, it was founded on May 9, 1969 when the owner of the Washington plantation donated the land to the government for use as a nature preserve. The park’s name changed to the Washington Slagbaai National Park in 1979 when the Slagbaai plantation gained protected status, leading to the successful preservation of an area equivalent to a fifth of the island of Bonaire.

The park is accessible through a single entrance located about 2.5 miles (4 kilometers) north of Rincón. There is a visitor center at the entrance, along with a museum, an open-air classroom space and restrooms. The park itself contains a number of hiking trails, cultural sites, two protected wetland areas – Saliña Slagbaai and Saliña Goto – and seven dive and snorkel sites located on the park’s more sheltered west coast.

STINAPA manages the park and charges a $25 USD access fee to all visitors. Divers can enter the park for free by bringing the receipt for their STINAPA Nature Fee tag, as well as identification. Visitors are not allowed to spend the night in the park unless they have reserved a stay in the Boka Slagbaai plantation house ahead of time.
When visiting the park, consider getting there early; the gates are open from 8:00am to 5:00pm but the rangers will not permit anyone to enter past 2:30pm. Divers should begin their final dive by 2:30pm to ensure there is enough time to exit the park. The roundtrip drive through the park can take two hours or more, depending on conditions, and rangers recommend visitors depart Wayaká II by 3:30pm, and Boka Slagbaai by 4:00pm, to ensure there is enough time to exit the park before the gates close. Rangers do a sweep of the park starting from the north at 3:30pm to make sure everyone is respecting these deadlines.

In addition to the dive sites discussed in the following pages, there are notable features along the rougher northern and eastern coasts of the park, including Playa Chikitu, which is one of Bonaire’s only true sand beaches. The east coast also hosts the Suplado Blow Hole, which is most impressive during periods of high surf, and the cliffs at Seru Grandi. This 190-foot-tall (58-meter) limestone escarpment highlights the interaction between sea level and the rising landmass due to tectonic activity. The massive boulders in this area are remnants of powerful tsunamis that lifted these rocks out of the ocean and deposited them on the flats. The area is definitely worth the extra drive time to visit.

Washington Slagbaai National Park

BONAIRE

WASHINGTON SLAGBAAI NATIONAL PARK

21

Getting to and around the park

Head north out of Rincón on Kaya G.R.E. Herrera towards Washington Slagbaai National Park. The roads in the park are unpaved and at times can be deeply rutted; as a result, a vehicle with relatively high clearance is necessary while four-wheel-drive capability is strongly recommended.

In the rainy season (December through March) some dive sites may become inaccessible because of the condition of the road. Consider
calling ahead after a heavy rain to check on the status of the road before you drive all the way up to the park: +599-788-9015. It takes about 30 minutes to reach the park entrance from downtown Kralendijk.

Once in the park, the roads have a maximum speed limit of 15 mph (25 km/h) and are mostly one way. There is a short route that takes you directly through the middle of the park toward

Reef Smart ©

The Suplado Blow Hole on the northeast coast of the island

BONAIRE

WASHINGTON SLAGBAAI NATIONAL PARK

SAFETY TIP

Washington Slagbaai National Park covers a massive area of beautiful and unspoiled habitat. It is also a remote and unpopulated region with little to no access to water. When venturing into the park, make sure you have
at least a half tank of gas and a spare tire. Bring plenty of water along with sunscreen and proper attire, including a hat to protect yourself from the sun. If you plan on going for a hike, check in at the park entrance to learn about your route, and remember to stick to the path.

22

WASHINGTON SLAGBAAI NATIONAL PARK

Playa Funchi, while a longer route heads up along the east and northern coasts. The long route adds between 30 and 45 minutes to the drive time but is the only way to access the northern three dive and snorkel sites.

BONAIRE

RELAX & RECHARGE

If you are headed up to visit the park, do not miss The Rose Inn. This chilled out restaurant located in downtown Rincón serves hearty and

23

WASHINGTON SLAGBAAI NATIONAL PARK

BONAIRE

RELAX & RECHARGE

If you are headed up to visit the park, do not miss The Rose Inn. This chilled out restaurant located in downtown Rincón serves hearty and

delicious Caribbean stews – often chicken, fish, beef or goat – accompanied by local sides such as plantain, polenta and moro, which is a flavorful mix of rice and beans. Do not be in a hurry when you visit this place – the food is served in their
shaded outdoor courtyard at the relaxed pace of Rincón life, often with a soundtrack of old-school reggae or calypso. So sit back, unwind, soak up the atmosphere and enjoy a traditional taste of Bonaire. The Rose Inn is closed on Wednesdays.

24

Due to the forces that formed Bonaire, the island is not ringed with continuous, sandy beaches like you may find on other Caribbean islands. But hidden away among the nooks and crannies of an otherwise rocky coastline are nearly two dozen gorgeous beaches that offer a great place to unwind in the sun during a day out of the water. Some of the beaches, such as Wayaka II, Boka Slagbaai, and Atlantis Beach, are adjacent to dive sites, so are discussed in more detail in the diving section. But if you are looking for a beach unassociated with a diving spot, here are some of your best options:

Kokolishi Beach (Playa Kokolishi)

Kokolishi Beach is a secluded, 80-foot-wide (25-meter) stretch of dark-sand beach tucked away at the back of a long, narrow cove. It is found near
the northern tip of the island, and while you will not want to spend a whole day here, it is worth a visit on your way through the park.

Chikitu Beach (Playa Chikitu)

Located a ways off of the National Park’s long road and less than a half mile (0.7 kilometers) southeast of Kokolishi Beach, Chikitu Beach is a picturesque cove looking out on the rough waters of the Atlantic. There is no swimming here due to dangerous currents and rip tides, but this is one of the only places on Bonaire where you will see real sand dunes.

Coco Beach (Playa Lechi, Eden, Harbour Village)

This stretch of beach is actually a few beaches adjacent to the Bari and Front Porch sites. This is not a secluded beach, but there is plenty to do here., including beach volleyball and refreshments.

BEACHES

Bonaire beaches

BONAIRE

25

Te Amo Beach

Located just north of Playa Palu di Mangel (Donkey Beach, next to Windsock), Te Amo Beach is a white-sand beach that looks out on the calm waters between Klein Bonaire and downtown Kralendijk. The beach is crowded on weekends, but less so during the week.

Bachelor’s Beach

Bachelor’s Beach is must-visit beach south of the airport. The beach is a small stretch of white sand at the base of the cliff, and it offers a memorable experience with the perfect turquoise waters that you want from a Caribbean paradise.

Lac Cai

Located on the northern edge of Lac Bay on the east coast, Lac Cai beach is a gorgeous sandy beach next to the shallow, clear blue waters of the bay, and with a photo-worthy backdrop of healthy mangrove stands. This beach is popular with locals on the weekend but is a little off the beaten path for many visitors.

Sorobon Beach

Located at the southern edge of Lac Bay on the east coast, Sorobon Beach is a long stretch of sand. where a small community has built up as a mecca for wind surfing. There are plenty of spots to relax along the waterfront, and even a beach bar called, appropriately enough, the Hang Out Beach Bar.

No Name Beach

This sandy beach is the drop off point for the water taxi on the northeastern corner of Klein Bonaire, the uninhabited island that sits just 0.5 miles (0.8 kilometers) off the west coast of Bonaire. The beach has two shelters that provide shade and a few BBQ grills available (you will need to bring your own charcoal) but little else, other than sand, sun and warm water. This is a great way to spend a day away from the hustle and bustle of the main island, just bring plenty of water and sunscreen.

BEACHES

BONAIRE

Reef Smart ©

The turquoise waters of Bachelor’s Beach

26

There are many marine organisms that can put a damper on your experience in Bonaire, from stinging jellyfish to fire corals and moray eels. Some of these potentially dangerous marine creatures are listed on pages 252–255 with information on how to treat the wounds. We have included information in that section on the harm these species can cause and some of the common treatments.

Crime does exist on Bonaire, although the island is considered one of the safer places in the Caribbean for visitors. Please approach your trip with an appropriate level of caution and safety-conscious behavior. Do not leave anything of value in your car while you go out diving. In fact, many rental companies suggest leaving vehicle doors unlocked to demonstrate the absence of anything of value inside.

If you get injured there are several places to seek quality medical care on the island. Bonaire’s only hospital is the San Francisco Hospital located in downtown Kralendijk. The hospital has 60 beds and if you need to spend the night, you will need to bring your own overnight supplies, such as pillow, blankets and toiletries. There are also a few clinics on the island, including some that cater to the diving community. Bonaire also has its own decompression chamber located just across the road from the hospital, which is available with a referral from the doctor on duty or the hospital. It also has an air ambulance service.

The healthcare system in Bonaire is adequate for most needs, but if the injury or illness is beyond the ability of the island’s medical expertise, you may need to be transported to Curaçao or elsewhere for treatment. Consider purchasing travel and dive-related health insurance prior to your trip. Without coverage, an accident could be costly.

In case of an emergency, here are some important numbers and places to seek help:

An excercise during diver safety training

EMERGENCY INFORMATION

In case of emergency

Emergency contacts

Police 911

Hospital and Ambulance: 912

Fire department: 911

Headquarters of the

Dutch Caribbean

Police Force - Bonaire

4 Kaya Libertado Simon Bolivar, Kralendijk

Tel: +599-715-8000 (non-emergency)

Tel: +599-717-8000 (non-emergency)

Email: politie@politiecn.com

Politiecn.com/en/locations/

BONAIRE

27

Roy Pedersen/Shutterstock ©

EMERGENCY INFORMATION

BONAIRE

San Francisco Hospital

Open 24 hours

2 Kaya Soeur Bartola, Kralendijk

Tel: +599-717-8900 (non-emergency)

Email: info@fundashonmariadal.org

Fundashonmariadal.org

Hyperbaric Recompression Chamber

Kaya Soeur Bartola, Kralendijk

Tel: +599-717-8187

Email: info@bonairehyperbaric.com

Bonairehyperbaric.com

Dive Medical Bonaire

96 Kaya Grandi, Kralendijk

Tel: +599-700-5230 (24h/7)

Email: info@divemedicalbonaire.com

Divemedicalbonaire.com

Pharmacies

Botica Bonaire

27 Kaya Grandi, Kralendijk

Tel: +599-717-8905

Fax: +599-717-8063

Botica Korona

180 Kaya Korona, Kralendijk

Tel: +599-717-7552

Fax: +599-717-4855

Botica Sabana

26 Kaya Nikiboko Zuid, Kralendijk

Tel: +599-717-5638

28

Kiteboarding

BONAIRE

Wallenrock/Shutterstock©

Bonaire offers visitors and locals near-perfect conditions for kiteboarding. Consistent winds, flat water and accessible beaches will appeal to kiteboarders of all experience levels. The kiteboarding schools and rental locations are concentrated near the southeastern coast, operating out of a small stretch of coastline known as Atlantis Beach – just over 3 miles (5 kilometers) south of the Salt Pier along the coastal road. The beach has become such a focal point for kiteboarding on the island that you are more likely to hear people refer to it by its unofficial name, Kite Beach.

The site is easy to spot from the road thanks to the small improvised village that springs up on the site during the day; the dozens of kiteboarders you will see out on the water at any given moment are another useful reference. The location includes two large school buses operated by the kiteboarding outfits. Food trucks,
tents, lounge areas and even Wi-Fi hotspots offer kiteboarders a level of convenience and luxury they may not recognize in between trips out on the water.

The two big outfits operating out of Kite Beach are Bonaire Kite School and Kiteboarding Bonaire, details bottom right. Both companies offer gear rentals and lessons for all experience levels from IKO-certified (International Kiteboarding Organization) instructors. A third operator, Chogogo Kite, operates from Coco Beach just north of Kralendijk.

Wind surfing

If kiteboarding is not your style, head to the east coast and visit Sorobon Beach at Lac Bay. The shallow waters of the bay and steady winds from the east offer the opportunity for an afternoon of incredible wind surfing. Rentals are available on site as well as lessons for those interested.

Kiteboarding

29

Maria Nelasova/Shutterstock ©

Kiteboarding

BONAIRE

A kiteboarder catches some air

Chogogo Kite

Coco Beach

Kralendijk, Bonaire

Tel: +599-700-5073

Email: info@chogogokite.com

Chogogokite.com

Bonaire Kite School

Altantis Beach (Kite Beach)

Kralendijk, Bonaire

Tel: +599-701-7873

Email: info@bonairekiteschool.com

Bonairekiteschool.com

Kiteboarding Bonaire

Altantis Beach (Kite Beach)

Kralendijk, Bonaire

Tel: +599-701-5483, +599-786-4987

Email: info@kiteboardingbonaire.com

Kiteboardingbonaire.com

Windsurf Place

Sorobon, at Lac Bay

Kralendijk, Bonaire

Tel: +599-717-2288

Email: info@bonairewindsurfplace.com

Bonairewindsurfplace.com

Jibe City

Sorobon, at Lac Bay

Kralendijk, Bonaire

Tel: +599-717-5233

Email: info@jibecity.com

Jibecity.com

A wind surfer cruises over the reef.

30

Bonaire has some of the best shore diving and snorkeling in the world. Its fringing reefs start just steps from the beach and offer a mix of shallow, soft coral forests, steep reef walls covered in sponges and hard corals, and a diverse assemblage of reef creatures that are sure to amaze even the most experienced of divers. The quality of the coral reefs is in part due to the steps the government took to preserve and protect its reefs at a time when many other regions were letting boats drop anchor wherever they chose. The result: a paradise for divers and snorkelers.

The island takes its role as a steward of its marine resources seriously, from the government down to the many dive professionals who call Bonaire home. Everyone involved in the dive industry understands the importance of preserving the
coral reefs for future generations and they all help uphold the rules. We have outlined some of the most important rules on page 17, so please follow them.

Bonaire’s sites

One of the great things about diving and snorkelling in Bonaire is the ability to explore the marine environment with incredible freedom. To get the most out of their experience, divers will need either local knowledge or this guidebook and its accompanying waterpoof cards. This guidebook includes information for every official dive site on Bonaire – and even some of the unofficial ones – including how to get to each site, how best to access the reef and a brief description of what you can expect once you are in the water. Our three-star rating system gives

Diving and snorkeling

Shore diving in Bonaire often means setting up your gear on the ground

Reef Smart ©

DIVING AND SNORKELING

BONAIRE

31

you information about the difficulty level, current strength, depth and the quality of the reef and fauna you are likely to encounter.

For 29 of the most popular dive sites, this book goes into greater detail, including a recommended route that will help you get the most out of your dive. We also point out what species to look for and what key features to observe. When coupled with the detailed 3D renderings of the wreck or reef, you will have a good idea of what is in store for you before you enter the water. And fortunately for you, Bonaire has a lot in store.

Snorkeling

Bonaire has plenty for divers, but many of the dive sites also include fantastic snorkeling opportunities. Nearshore shallow plateaus are filled with soft and hard corals sprinkled throughout a sandy seafloor, all of which supports a variety of reef creatures – and all accessible to snorkelers at the surface. We use a snorkel icon to help you scan the list of sites to see which ones offer the best snorkeling experience. We also provide information to help you get the most enjoyment from your time on the surface of the water.

DIVING AND SNORKELING

BONAIRE

SAFETY TIP

There are two dive sites that have long been on the official list of Marine Park dive sites, one located in downtown Kralendijk (#33 Town Pier) and the other located on the northern side of Lac Bay on the east coast, called Cai (#63). Both sites were removed from the official list of sites due to safety concerns. In particular, STINAPA delisted Cai after too many divers chose to dive the site without a guide and ended
up being swept out to sea in the strong east coast currents. According to the Park authorities, the costs related to launching rescue missions was too high to justify maintaining the site as one of the official dive locations.

Bonaire offers you the opportunity to enjoy incredible shore diving at your pace and on your schedule, but you must still understand the risks involved and be smart about how and where you dive.

Snorkelers can enjoy easy access and calm waters at many of Bonaire’s reefs

Gail Johnson/Shutterstock ©

32

Diving and snorkeling services

Businesses are listed based on their order from north to south across the island. This information is up-to-date as of the publication of this guidebook.

Buddy Dive Caribbean Club Bonaire

50 Boulevard Santa Barbara, Kralendijk

Tel: +599-717-5080

Email: info@buddydive.com

Caribbeanclubbonaire.com

Dive Friends Hamlet Oasis

123 Kaya Gobernador N. Debrot, Kralendijk

Tel: +599-717-2524

Email: info@divefriendsbonaire.com

Divefriendsbonaire.com

Cap. Don’s Habitat

103 Kaya Gobernador N. Debrot, Kralendijk

Tel: +599-717-8290

Email: book@habitatbonaire.com

Habitatbonaire.com

Buddy Dive Resort

85 Kaya Gobernador N. Debrot, Kralendijk

Tel: +599-717-5080

Email: info@buddydive.com

Buddydive.com

Dive Friends (retail)

Kaya Gobernador N. Debrot Shopping Mall

Tel: +599-717-4070

Email: info@divefriendsbonaire.com

Divefriendsbonaire.com

Dive Friends Sand Dollar

77 Kaya Gobernador N. Debrot, Kralendijk

Tel: +599-717-1621

Email: info@divefriendsbonaire.com

Divefriendsbonaire.com

Wannadive

73 Kaya Gobernador N. Debrot, Kralendijk

Tel: +599-717-8884

Email: info@wannadive.com

Wannadive.com

Great Adventures

71 Kaya Gobernador N. Debrot, Kralendijk

Tel: +599-717-7500

Email: reservations@harborvillage.com

Harbourvillage.com

DIVING AND SNORKELING

BONAIRE

Shore dives are popular, but somes sites can only be reached by dive boat

Reef Smart ©

33

DIVING AND SNORKELING

BONAIRE

Gooodive

52 Kaya Gobernador N. Debrot, Kralendijk

Tel: +599-717-1525

Email: info@gooodive.com

Gooodive.com

Dive Friends Yellow Submarine

24 Kaya Playa Lechi, Kralendijk

Tel: +599-717-2929

Email: info@divefriendsbonaire.com

Divefriendsbonaire.com

Your Scuba Store (retail)

70 Kaya Grandi, Kralendijk

Tel: +599-717-4888

Email: info@yourscubastore.com

Yourscubastore.com

Buddy Dive Ocean Front Apartments

65 Kaya Grandi, Kralendijk

Tel: + 599-717-6130

Email: info@buddydive.com

Sunrentalsbonaire.com

Buddy Dive Watersports (retail)

6 Kaya Libertador Simon Bolivar, Kralendijk

Tel: +599-717-5085

Email: info@buddydive.com

Buddydive.com

Dive Friends Dive Inn

Playa Cha Cha Cha, Kralendijk

Tel: +599-717-8761

Email: info@divefriendsbonaire.com

Divefriendsbonaire.com

AB Dive

31 Kaya Industria, Kralendijk

Tel: +599-717-8980

Email: info@ab-dive.com

Ab-dive.com

Stay and dive

1 Kaya Norwega, Kralendijk

Tel: +599-717-6860

Email: info@stayanddivebonaire.com

Stayanddivebonaire.com

Divi Flamingo

40 Julio A. Abraham Blvd, Kralendijk

Tel: +599-717-8285

Email: comments@diviresorts.com

Diviresorts.com/bonaire

Carib Inn

46 Julio A. Abraham Blvd, Kralendijk

Tel: +599-717-8819

Email: info@caribinn.com

Caribinn.com

VIP Diving

77 Julio A. Abraham Blvd, Kralendijk

Tel: +599-701-7701

Email: info@vipdiving.com

Vipdiving.com

Toucan Diving

80 J.A. Abraham Blvd, Kralendijk

Tel: +599-717-2500

Email: diveshop@plazaresortbonaire.com

Toucandiving.com

Div’ocean

82 Julio A. Abraham Blvd, #301, Kralendijk

Tel: +599-717-4944

Email: info@divoceanbonaire.com

Divoceanbonaire.com

Dive Friends Marriot Courtyard

2 Kaya International, Kralendijk

Tel: +599-715-2266

Email: info@divefriendsbonaire.com

Divefriendsbonaire.com

Dive Friends Port Bonaire

Kaya International (airport), Kralendijk

Tel: +599-717-3460

Email: info@divefriendsbonaire.com

Divefriendsbonaire.com

Beyond the Corals

69 EEG Boulevard, Belnem

Tel: +599-795-3949

Email: info@beyondthecorals.com

Beyondthecorals.com

Buddy Dive Belmar Oceanfront Apartments

88 EEG Boulevard, Belnem

Tel: +599-717-5080

Email: info@buddydive.com

Belmar-bonaire.com

Dive Friends Delfins Beach Resort

44 Punt Vierkant, Belnem

Tel: +599-715-5006

Email: info@divefriendsbonaire.com

Divefriendsbonaire.com

East Coast Divers

Fisherman’s pier at Sorobon

Tel: +599-717-5211

Email: info@bonaireeastcoastdiving.com

Bonaireeastcoastdiving.com

34

Boka Bartól .......................................

Boka Katuna .....................................Playa Bengé ......................................

Playa Funchi .....................................

Bisé Morto.........................................

Wayaká II............................................

Boka Slagbaai...................................

Playa Frans.........................................

Nukove (Doblet)..............................

Carel’s Vision.....................................

Tailor Made........................................

Candyland .........................................

Karpata ...............................................

La Dania’s Leap ................................

Rappel .................................................

Bloodlet ..............................................

Tolo (Ol’ Blue).....................................

Country Garden...............................

Bon Bini Na Cas................................

1000 Steps.........................................

Weber’s Joy (Witch’s Hut)...............

Jeff Davis Memorial........................

Kalli’s Reef.........................................

Oil Slick Leap.....................................

Barcadera...........................................

Andrea II.............................................

Andrea I..............................................

Petrie’s Pillar......................................

Small Wall..........................................

Coopers Barge ................................

Cliff......................................................

La Machaca.......................................

Reef Scientifico................................

Buddy’s Reef.....................................

Bari Reef.............................................

Front Porch........................................

Something Special.........................

Town Pier

Calabas Reef......................................

18th Palm...........................................Windsock...........................................

Corporal Meiss..................................

Bachelor’s Beach..............................

Chez Hines.........................................

Lighthouse Point.............................

Punt Vierkant....................................

The Lake..............................................

Hilma Hooker....................................

Angel City...........................................

Alice In Wonderland.......................

Aquarius......................................

Larry’s Lair..........................................

Jeannie’s Glory.................................

Salt Pier...............................................

Salt City (Saliña Abou) .....................

Invisibles.......................................

Tori’s Reef............................................

Pink Beach (Kabayé).......................

White Slave........................................

Wanda........................................

Margate Bay.......................................

Red Beryl.............................................

Atlantis........................................

Fish Hut..............................................

Vista Blue............................................

Sweet Dreams...................................

Soft Yellow Coral.............................

Hidden Beach...................................

Yellow Hut.........................................

Chogogo......................................

Red Slave............................................

Willemstoren Lighthouse.............

While Hole..........................................

1

1A

2

3

4

5

6

6A

7

8

8A

8B

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

20

21

22

23

24

25

25A

26

27

28

29

30

31

32

33

34

35

36

37

38

39

40

41

42

43

44

45

46

47

48

49

50

51

52

53

54

54A

55

56

57

57A

58

59

59A

59B

59C

59D

60

61

62

Access

Dive and snorkel sites

DIVING AND SNORKELING

BONAIRE

No Name (Playita) ......................

Ebo’s Reef ......................................

Jerry’s Sponges ...........................

Just a Nice Dive ...........................

Nearest Point ...............................

Keepsake ......................................

Bonaventure ................................

Monte’s Divi .................................

Rock Pile ........................................

Joanne‘s Sunchi ..........................

Captain Don’s Reef .....................

South Bay .....................................

Hands Off ......................................

Forest .............................................

Southwest Corner ......................

Munk’s Haven ..............................

Twixt ...............................................

Sharon’s Serenity ........................

Vallerie’s Hills ...............................

Mi Dushi ........................................

Yellow Man ...................................

Carl’s Hill ........................................

Ebo’s Special ................................

Leonora’s Reef .............................

Knife ...............................................

Sampler .........................................

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

I

J

K

L

M

N

O

P

Q

R

S

T

U

V

W

X

Y

Z

Access

Dive and snorkel sites

Klein Bonaire

CLOSED

35

DIVING AND SNORKELING

BONAIRE

36

BONAIRE

1

Boka Bartól

Kralendijk

Boka Bartól

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Advanced open water

Location

Washington plantation

GPS: 12°18’10.5”N, 68°23’54.6”W

Getting there

Start by making your way to the park entrance following the directions on page 21 that
describe the Washington Slagbaai National Park. Boka Bartól is the northernmost dive site in the park and can only be reached via the long route. After entering the park, follow the long road past Suplado Blow Hole and Boka Kokolishi on the east coast, after which the road cuts inland. At Boka Bartól, the road returns to the coast and runs southwest between the sea and Saliña Bartól. The overall drive from the park

Access about 45 mins from the park entrance

about 120 mins from Kralendijk

37

BONAIRE

1

Boka Bartól

entrance is just over 6 miles (10 kilometers), or about 45 minutes of driving without stopping. There is a parking lot with space for several cars just before a small yellow concrete structure and adjacent to a picnic bench with a tiki-style parasol.

Access

Descend the relatively steep beach composed of large coral rocks. The ground transitions to a rutted reef plateau at the shoreline, which is more stable but can be slippery, so watch your step.

Waves generally approach from the north and can break across the entire bay. However, the sandy area between the two large rocks at the southwestern end of the beach is slightly deeper – waves break less often here making
this the safest place to access the dive site. The buoy is located about 330 feet (100 meters) off the beach. The site can also be reached by boat.

Description

Boka Bartól is exposed to the open ocean, so the current can be incredibly strong, generally moving from south to north. The site is relatively pristine because its remote location means it is infrequently visited.

The site is known for its large fish, including barracuda, stingrays and eagle rays. The sand bottom shelters garden eels and peacock flounders and sea turtles may be found among the soft corals. The coral cover is better to the north of the buoy, but for safety reasons, most divers start their dive by heading south, into the prevailing current.

38

1A

BONAIRE

Boka Katuna

Kralendijk

Boka Katuna

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Access about 47 mins from the park entrance

Level Advanced open water

Location

Washington plantation

GPS: 12°17’58.7”N, 68°24’08.2”W

Getting there

Start by making your way to the park entrance following the directions on page 21 that
describe the Washington Slagbaai National Park. Boka Katuna is less than half a mile south of Boka Bartol and is only reachable via the long route.

The site is not an official dive site in the numbered list released by STINAPA, but a small sign on the side of the road marks the site where a short track leads off to the right ending at the cliff edge after

39

1A

Boka KAtuna

BONAIRE

about 100 feet (30 meters). There is room to park several cars here. The dive site is in a small bay that measures about 480 feet (146 meters) across and is protected from wave action, although some swells from the north do bend around the point and enter the bay.

Access

To reach the dive site, descend the 40-foot (12-meter) cliff to the rocky beach below. There is a rough path down to the water built out of rocks, located 90 feet (27.5 meters) along the cliff from the parking lot. Accessing this site can be very challenging for most divers, especially when carrying heavy dive gear. Exercise extreme caution when descending to the beach.

Once on the beach, enter the water and swim out between the two large rocks located on either
side of the beach. There is no mooring buoy at this site, so access by boat is only possible if someone remains in the boat to hold its position, since anchoring is prohibited anywhere in the Marine Park.

Description

Boka Katuna is known for its strong currents and dangerous undertow, particularly when the surf is up. These characteristics make this site better suited to experienced divers. This site is not recommended for snorkelers.

The exposed nature of the site has its benefits, however, since it also means Boka Katuna is relatively pristine and offers a good chance of seeing triggerfish, stingrays, eagle rays and barracuda.

40

BONAIRE

2

Playa Bengé

Kralendijk

Playa Bengé

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Advanced open water

Location

Washington plantation

GPS: 12°17’24.5”N, 68°24’41.3”W

Getting there

Playa Bengé is the last dive site before the park’s long route intersects with the short route. Make your way to the park following the directions on page 21, then
proceed to Boka Katuna. A half mile down the road from there, you will reach an intersection with a road heading off to the right with a sign indicating Playa Bengé. Take this road and pass through the barrier. Follow the winding road for a half mile to a parking lot with enough space for several cars.

Access

A path adjacent to a green and yellow barrier leads down to a dry river bed and onto the beach. There

about 105 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 51 mins from the park entrance

41

BONAIRE

2

PLaya BengÉ

are lots of large rocks and rubble on the beach, which can be challenging to navigate with dive gear. Large swells enter the bay from the north and tend to break about 60 feet (18 meters) from shore. Once clear of the surf zone, kick out to the buoy located 450 feet (137 meters) from the shore.

Description

Sea turtles are known to nest on this beach, so do
not disturb any nests you might come across. This site is also known for particularly strong rip currents, so scope out the conditions before entering the water. Snorkelers will enjoy the shallow spur and groove formations, and the variety of marine life including staghorn coral, squid and nudibranchs. Divers may see schools of parrotfish, snapper and grouper along the deeper reef wall to the east, along with the occasional shark or manta ray.

Scan the water for signs of a rip current before entering. Areas without breaking waves, or with cloudy or choppy water, often indicate rip currents.

Observe any floating objects, such as bits of wood or seaweed. Areas where floating objects are washed out to sea are often rip currents.

If you are caught in a rip current, always swim perpendicular to the current to free yourself, rather than against it.

SAFETY TIP

Rip currents flow from the shore to the open sea and can be incredibly strong, particularly in stormy weather and at low tide. They can be extremely dangerous for swimmers, particularly weak or less-experienced swimmers. They can be difficult to spot, but there are several tips that can improve safety:

42

BONAIRE

3

Playa Funchi

Kralendijk

Playa Funchi

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Slagbaai plantation

GPS: 12°16’56.6”N, 68°24’49.6”W

Getting there

Playa Funchi can be reached via either the long or short routes through the National

Park. It is a 5.5-mile (9-kilometer) drive from the park entrance if you take the short route, and about 2.2 miles (3.5 kilometers) south from Playa Bengé if you take the long route. It is the westernmost beach on the island.

Make your way to the park using the directions on page 21. Enter the park taking either the long or short route and continue until

about 103 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 25 mins from the park entrance

43

BONAIRE

3

Playa Funchi

the two intersect on the west coast. Drive southwest from the intersection of the long and short routes; the road forks after a third of a mile (0.5 kilometers). Follow the sign to take the right fork toward Playa Funchi. The road continues straight for a while and then bends to the right just before a large parking lot situated on the cliff above the beach. You can park here or drive down the steep slope to the smaller parking lot between the beach and Saliña Funchi. Iguanas, geckos and blue whiptail lizards (known locally as blau-blau) are often found on the beach here. Flamingos are common in Saliña Funchi.

Access

Playa Funchi is in a sheltered bay about 300 feet (92 meters) across with seating and some shade. The mooring buoy is anchored a ways from shore in a large sandy area. The beach
consists of rounded, flat rocks, which makes accessing the water easier than at other sites in the park. Be aware that the rocks can move underfoot, so tread with care. Waves may break close to the beach here, but they tend to be smaller than those at Playa Bengé.

Description

Currents at Playa Funchi can be strong, particularly rip currents; be sure to check the conditions before venturing into the water. The site is known for its great snorkeling, with the wide, relatively shallow waters playing host to a variety of marine life, including trunkfish, chubs, razerfish and staghorn corals. Divers may see midnight parrotfish, anemones, schools of horse-eye jacks and plenty of soft corals and sea fans on the reef.

44

BONAIRE

4

Bisé Morto

Kralendijk

Bisé Morto

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Slagbaai plantation

GPS: 12°16’36.4”N, 68°24’51.8”W

Getting there

Bise Morto is just a half mile (0.8 kilometers) down the road from Playa Funchi – a

27-minute drive from the entrance of the National Park along the short route. Start by following the directions on page 21 to get to the park. From there, follow the directions to Playa Funchi but continue past the parking lot toward the ocean. The road heads directly toward the coast before turning left and running parallel to the shoreline. Cross the cattle grid and continue driving until you see

about 100 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 27 mins from the park entrance

45

BONAIRE

4

Bisé Morto

the Bisé Morto inlet on your right. There is a small parking lot on the right immediately after the site.

Access

Access to Bisé Morto is challenging, even compared to the other sites in the park. A 25-foot (7.5-meter) sheer cliff stands between the parking lot and the water below. You will need ropes to lower your dive gear to the beach and to climb down safely. (The ropes are necessary to climb back up again upon exiting the water.)

Once on the small rocky beach divers must be careful to avoid the shallow reef areas on either side of the narrow bay, which is only about 45 feet (14 meters) across. Wave action can be strong at this site, so divers should surfaceswim through the swells and into
deeper water as quickly as possible. The small beach may not actually be visible at high tide, so time your dive accordingly. There is a yellow mooring buoy located in the sand directly off the beach.

Description

As with most other sites in the park, the waves and current at Bisé Morto can be strong, particularly rip currents. The name of the site means “dead deer,” supposedly in reference to the fields of staghorn coral found here. Divers may see French angelfish, scrawled filefish, triggerfish and large grouper at this site. Some divers have also reported seeing larger pelagic organisms here, such as whale sharks and humpback whales. The shallower areas are known to offer better diving than the deeper reef at this site.

46

BONAIRE

5

Wayaká II

Kralendijk

Wayaká II

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Slagbaai plantation

GPS: 12°16’10.9”N, 68°24’49.0”W

Getting there

Wayaká II is a 0.6-mile (1-kilometer) drive south from Bisé Morto. Start by following
the directions on page 21 to make your way to the entrance of the Washington Slagbaai National Park. From there, follow the directions on the preceeding pages to get to Playa Funchi and Bisé Morto. After you pass Bisé Morto, the road hugs the shore for about 0.4 miles (0.6 kilometers) before turning inland. Immediately after this bend, you will see a right turn with a sign pointing toward

about 95 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 30 mins from the park entrance

47

BONAIRE

5

Wayaká II

the three beaches, Wayaká I, II and III. Wayaká I is closed, and Wayaká II is located just a little farther down – it is the most visited beach of the three. There is plenty of room for parking on the right-hand side of the road.

Access

From the parking lot follow the short, winding path that leads to the cliff edge. A set of uneven stairs leads down to a small, sheltered beach, which is protected by several reef areas that are exposed at low tide. The bay has virtually no breaking waves and offers incredible visibility, which makes this an excellent place to snorkel and dive. In fact, the Wayaká sites are widely regarded as the best places to snorkel in the National Park.

The beach largely disappears at high tide, so time your visit accordingly. There is some shade available and a small cave in the cliff to explore. To access the snorkeling area, walk off the beach and follow the sand channel that cuts through the shallow reef areas on either side of the beach. There is a yellow mooring buoy located in the sand about 300 feet (92 meters) from shore.

Description

The Wayaká sites are in a sheltered bay with plenty of fish, particularly French angelfish, parrotfish, including both midnight and rainbow, as well as puddingwives, surgeonfish, blue tangs, Bermuda chub, sergeant majors, rock beauties and trunkfish. Small grouper, such as coneys and graysbies, are also very common.

48

BONAIRE

Flamingos are an iconic species in Bonaire

Boka Slagbaai

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Slagbaai plantation

GPS: 12°15’52.8”N, 68°24’48.3”W

Getting there

Boka Slagbaai is the southernmost dive site in Washington Slagbaai National Park and can be reached via either the long or short route through the park – it is a 75-minute drive along the long route but just 40 minutes if you take the short route. Boka Slagbaai is located just a third of a mile south of the Wakayá sites, but the drive requires 10 minutes because the road takes you all the way around Saliña Wayaká – a distance of 2 miles (3 kilometers). When the road returns to the coast you will notice a small parking area on the right, just before the road drops sharply into the sheltered bay where several yellow historical buildings are located. There is plenty of parking on either side of these buildings.

Access

The beach consists mainly of sand with some rocks. Waves do not generally break here, which means entering and exiting the water is relatively easy. There are two mooring buoys at this site, located about 400 feet (122 meters) from the beach and close to the edge of the drop off. Currents can be strong this far from shore, so watch for changes in the conditions and monitor your air supply carefully to ensure you have enough air in your tank to safely return to shore.

Description

Boka Slagbaai boasts a beautiful beach that separates a long, shallow saliña from what was once a commercially important harbor. The Slagbaai plantation began operation in this area in the late 1600s after the Dutch West-Indian Company took over the island. In the 1860s, the government sold the plantation to private owners who built housing and a warehouse just off the beach. The original buildings were

6

recently restored and now offer a colorful backdrop as you enter and exit the water.

The buildings are not the only remnants of this site’s past as a working harbor. Rounded ballast stones litter the middle section of the sand-bottomed back reef area. Sailing ships dropped these stones as they took on shipments of goat meat, charcoal, salt, chalk and wood that were

Kralendijk

Boka Slagbaai

about 95 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 40 mins from the park entrance

49

BONAIRE

Mary k Schmidt/Shutterstock ©

6

Boka Slagbaai

the staples of the Slagbaai plantation. The site is also scattered with other historical artifacts, including anchors and cannons. Two cannons dating from the eighteenth century, which are now heavily encrusted with marine life, can be found at the base of the cliff in the southern part of the bay at a depth of about 7 feet (2 meters). These cannons were once part of a fort that was constructed on top of the cliff to protect the port from pirates. Replica cannons are also located in the northern part of the bay.

DID YOU KNOW?

The road from Wayaká I, II and III to Boka Slagbaai passes between Saliña Wayaká and Brandaris, which at 784 feet (241 meters) is the highest point on the island of Bonaire. The hike to the top Brandaris takes between

30 minutes and one hour, depending on the pace you set, and offers spectacular views of Washington Slagbaai National Park and beyond. On a clear day, you can even see the neighboring island of Curaçao. Park authorities advise hikers to begin their Brandaris climb by noon at the latest.

In the back reef, corals can be found along the left and right sides of the bay, at the base of the northern and southern bluffs. The northern side is dominated by blade fire coral while the southern side has large brain and star coral mounds that provide habitat for many reef fish, such as filefish, boxfish and parrotfish, including large rainbow parrotfish.

The middle section of the wide bay is dominated by coral rubble, sand and some patch reef. Razerfish and sand tilefish are particularly common here. The reef starts to slope gradually towards the drop off, which forms a gentle arc from north to south, mirroring the shape of the bay.

The drop off contains a number of sand channels that run vertically from the top of the reef to the bottom. The slope is shallower at the northern end of the site and gradually becomes steeper, almost wall-like, toward the south. Large coral mounds can be found at the top of the southen section of reef, with plate-form corals found at depth. Schools of creole wrasse and rainbow runners flow along the reef slope while large cubera snapper patrol the deeper areas.

Route

Boka Slagbaai offers plenty of reef for snorkelers to explore; the shallow bay is nearly 3.5 acres in size, and though the back reef does not have dense coral cover, it has plenty of reef fish to watch. The water gets deeper out past the mooring buoys and is more interesting for those snorkelers able to dive below the surface.

Divers have a choice of swimming out to the reef along the north or south edges of the bay. Make your way out to the drop off, keeping a look out for the cannons as you make your way through the back reef. The drop off starts about 60 feet (18 meters) past the yellow mooring buoys, which are anchored in the sand at a depth of about 16 feet (5 meters). The top of the drop off is about 30 feet (9 meters) in depth. The reef stops at around 150 feet (46 meters) depth. The route you take along the reef slope will depend on the direction of the current.

50

Boka Slagbaai

17

31

23

DID YOU KNOW?

Some believe the name Boka Slagbaai derives from the Dutch word “Slachtbaai,” meaning slaughter, which provides some insight into the historical activities that took place in the bay. For centuries, the plantation was used for the slaughter of livestock,
particularly goats and sheep. The salted meat, known locally as jorki, was stored here before being shipped to Curaçao every two weeks. Many historians contend that the term originates from the Papiamentou “salu” or salt, instead. If so, the current name would be an evolution of the original name sla baai, or salt bay.

BONAIRE

6

51

13

42

Boka Slagbaai

Other species commonly found at this site:

40

7

16

21

29

33

35

43

50

53

56

59

61

24

3

J

6

BONAIRE

6

32

67

52

6A

BONAIRE

Playa Frans

Kralendijk

Playa Frans

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

about 83 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 47 mins from Kralendijk

Level Open Water

Location

Brasil plantation, Bonaire

GPS: 12°14’46.1”N, 68°24’49.2”W

Getting there

Playa Frans is the northernmost site outside of the Washington Slagbaai National Park. It is one of a handful of sites located west of the BOPEC (Bonaire Petroleum Corporation) facility. This site is remote and getting there requires a four-wheel-drive vehicle, a full tank of gas and plenty of water.

Plan for the drive to take in excess of 45 minutes.

Head north out of downtown Kralendijk, taking the Queen’s highway out to the Karpata dive site. Once at Karpata, turn left onto Kaminoa Karpata. The road hugs the coast and you will soon see a saliña on your right. Head toward the gates of BOPEC, but do not enter them; instead, turn right and take the dirt road north, which runs along the fence line. When the fence turns a corner, continue straight toward the paved section of road – a left turn leads to the washed out remains of the old road.

53

6A

Playa FrANS

BONAIRE

Drive up and around the BOPEC facility before rejoining the coast about 1.5 miles (2.5 kilometers) later. The road forks soon thereafter; take the right fork. After 1.3 miles (2 kilometers) you will pass a house on the left just before the road heads inland, immediately followed by a sharp left turn up a hill. Continue to the end of this road – another 0.7 miles (1.1 kilometers) or a total of 2.1 miles (3.5 kilometers) from the fork in the road. There is a small yellow marker rock near the entrance to the area that holds a few cottages and older buildings. Saliña Frans is located to the right of the road and the beach and dive and snorkel site of Playa Frans is located on the left. Park just beyond the final building on the left, adjacent to the water.

Access

Most divers and snorkelers enter the water by descending the concrete boat ramp at this site. Be careful since the ramp can be slick. The water in this area is sheltered by the shallow corals located just off shore from the beach. Put on your fins and surface swim out through the
narrow channel between the corals to the main reef, which is located about 300 feet (92 meters) off shore. The site is marked by a buoy, which is a good place to surface at the end of your dive to locate the access channel for a safe return to the beach.

Description

Playa Frans is one of Bonaire’s more remote and secluded beaches. Turtles use this stony beach for nesting, so be careful not to disturb nesting turtles or their nests, which may be indicated by turtle tracks on the beach. The back reef is full of shallow, algae-covered coral that attracts large parrotfish and schools of blue tangs and surgeonfish. The deeper reef is known for its large brain and pillar corals, as well as some massive purple tube sponges. The reef drop off starts just over 330 feet (100 meters) from shore and descends to a maximum depth of 130 feet (40 meters). The most interesting sections of this reef are in the shallower areas, however, so there’s no need to descend that deep.

54

7

BONAIRE

Nukove (Doblet)

Kralendijk

Nukove

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Advanced Open Water

Location

Brasil plantation, Bonaire

GPS: 12°14’26.6”N, 68°24’44.1”W

Getting there

Nukove is one of a handful of sites located west of the BOPEC (Bonaire Petroleum Corporation) facility in the southwestern corner of Washington

Slagbaai National Park. This site is remote and getting there requires a four-wheel-drive vehicle, a full tank of gas and plenty of water. Plan for the drive to take about 45 minutes.

Head north out of downtown Kralendijk, taking the Queen’s highway out to the Karpata dive site. Once at Karpata, turn left onto Kaminoa Karpata. The road hugs the coast and you will soon see a saliña on your right. Head toward the gates of BOPEC but do not enter them; instead, turn right

about 80 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 45 mins from Kralendijk

55

7

Nukove (Doblet)

BONAIRE

and take the dirt road north that runs along the fence line. When the fence turns a corner, continue straight toward the paved section of road – a left turn leads to the washed out remains of the old road. Drive up and around the BOPEC facility before rejoining the coast about 1.5 miles (2.5 kilometers) later. The road forks soon thereafter; take the right fork.

After 1.3 miles (2 kilometers) you will pass a house on the left just before the road heads inland, followed by a sharp left turn up a hill. Just 0.25 miles (0.4 kilometers) later – a total of 1.7 miles (2.8 kilometers) from the fork in the road – you will see a yellow roadside marker with Nukove written on it. Turn left onto that smaller road and park when you reach the cliff by the ocean.

Access

To access the beach from the parking lot, turn right and take the rough stone stairs that lead down to the coral beach. The steps are uneven and the rocks on the beach have a tendency to move underfoot, so
consider carrying your gear down the steps in stages and donning it once on the beach. Make your way into the water carefully, as the surface of the coral rubble in the surf zone can be slippery. The site is also accessible to snorkelers, although the potential for strong currents means only experienced snorkelers should consider exploring this site.

Description

Nukove is known for its multiple fish cleaning stations, and a variety of sponges and black corals. You may encounter parrotfish, filefish, black durgons and a variety of basslets, as well as large pelagic species like tarpon and jacks. The currents can be strong at this site, particularly at the drop off, which starts at around 30 feet (9 meters) and descends to a depth of more than 130 feet (40 meters). When you surface, look to use the cliff and your parked vehicle as a reference point for navigating back to the beach. The beach itself can be hard to see from the water depending on the waves.

56

8

BONAIRE

Carel’s Vision

Kralendijk

Carel’s Vision

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Access about 74 mins from Kralendijk

Level Open Water

Location

Brasil plantation, Bonaire

GPS: 12°13’50.6”N, 68°24’46.2”W

Getting there

Carel’s Vision is one of a handful of sites located west of the BOPEC (Bonaire Petroleum Corporation) facility just south of the Washington

Slagbaai National Park. This site is remote and while you can drive to the site and view the mooring buoy from a cliff, it is only accessible by boat. Ask at one of the local dive centers to find out when they are next heading out to this site. Because of the distance from Kralendijk, Carel’s Vision is not on the regular schedule of most dive centers, so you may need to arrange a trip in advance.

57

8

Carel’s Vision

BONAIRE

Access

The relatively weak currents and shallowness of this section of reef make it accessible to divers of all levels.

Description

Carel’s Vision is named after Carel Steensma, a dutchman who played an instrumental role in
establishing the Marine Park in 1979. This site is known for its many corals, including star corals, brain corals and black corals, along with its large elephant ear sponges. Parrotfish and triggerfish are also common, while stingrays and eagle rays are often spotted in the deeper parts of the reef.

SCIENTIFIC INSIGHT

Black corals belong in the order Antipatharia. They do not have a calcium carbonate skeleton like the stony corals you see on most reefs, instead they grow a shell of proteins and chitin. They also do not have a symbiotic relationship with photosynthetic algae, which means they can grow in waters without significant
amounts of sunlight. This allows them to grow at much greater depths than stony corals. Despite their name, black corals can be a wide range of colors, including red, white, green or yellow. They can be tall or short, bushy or thin, and scientists have recently shown that some individuals, found in the deeper waters of the Caribbean and in the Gulf of Mexico, are more than 2,000 years old.

58

Tailor Made

Level Advanced Open Water

Location

Brasil plantation, Bonaire

GPS: 12°13’23.9”N, 68°24’12.8”W

Getting there

Tailor Made is not on the official list of STINAPA sites. It is located just west of the BOPEC (Bonaire Petroleum Corporation) facility, right before the coastline turns to head north. This part of the island is remote and getting there requires a four-wheel-drive vehicle, a full tank of gas and plenty of water. Plan for the drive to take about 40 minutes.

Head north out of downtown Kralendijk, taking the Queen’s highway to the Karpata dive site. Once at Karpata, turn left onto Kaminoa Karpata. The road hugs the coast and you will soon see a saliña on your right. Head toward the gates of BOPEC but do not enter them; instead, turn right and take the dirt road north, which runs along the fence line. When the fence turns a corner, continue straight toward the paved section of road – a left turn leads to the washed out remains of the old road. Drive up and around the BOPEC facility before rejoining the coast about 1.5 miles (2.5 kilometers) later. The road hugs the coast for 0.25 miles (0.4 kilometers), with the ocean on your left and Saliña Tam on your right. When the road forks, take the left fork toward the rocky, coral beach. You will see a turnaround spot after 400 feet (120 meters) that takes you around a small grove of bushes next to a pile of boulders and car tires. Park here, leaving the trail clear in case other divers show up to the site after you.

Access

From the pile of boulders and tires located next to the road, a small path runs down to the shoreline. Enter the water carefully as the rocks can move underfoot. You will need to zig zag your way through the coral heads in the shallow part of the reef. Start out heading right for around 20 feet, before turning to your left and heading out through the gap in the reef. These are live corals, so be careful not to touch them. The surf is often

8A

BONAIRE

rough here, so consider waiting to put on your fins until you are in water that rises above your waist. As larger waves approach, you may need to brace yourself or use your dive buddy for support to avoid getting knocked over by the surf.

Description

Tailor Made is one of the more remote dives sites in Bonaire and requires some additional planning and precautions compared to some of the sites closer to downtown Kralendijk. A visit to Tailor Made is well worth the extra effort, however, as the reef has spectacular topography and high biodiversity.

The first section of reef is present right in the surf zone, which can make accessing the site a little challenging, particularly as the waves and current can be quite strong here. The reef is shallow enough to break the surface in places, so be sure to make your way carefully through the gap in the corals. Marine life is found even in these shallow areas, such as large rainbow parrotfish that forage in the waters all the way into the surf zone.

As you move into deeper water, you may notice multiple stands of elkhorn coral rising above the reef, along with a handful of large coral heads. The slope descends gradually, starting at a depth of 15 feet (5 meters) down to 20 feet (6 meters) by the reef line, which sits nearly 100 feet (30 meters) out.

As you approach the reef, you will see a profusion of star corals interspersed with stands of gorgonians. The slope steepens here, descending toward the drop off with a slight scalloping of the landscape. There is a large coral mound that tops out at a depth of 24 feet (7.5 meters), which is a handy reference to use when returning to the entry/exit point.

Tailor Made’s wall includes plate-form corals, large sponges and a variety of reef fishes. It is marked by a half dozen ridges and their associated valleys, making this an interesting site from the point of view of its terrain. Small

Kralendijk

Tailor Made

Access about 40 mins from Kralendijk

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

59

Large rainbow parrotfish can be seen on the reef as well as in the surf zone at Tailor Made

Brian Lasenby/Shutterstock ©

8A

Tailor Made

BONAIRE

sand channels are sprinkled through the site in valleys. To the west, the transition area between reef and drop off, widens and deepens. It forms a slight plateau with sand basins stocked full of gorgonians and yellow pencil coral, separated by elevated ridges of coral. The eastern edge of the site is marked by two coral pillars standing about 59 feet (18 meters) apart at the top of the drop off. A wide sand channel descends the wall between them. The best diving at this site is in a 33-foot (10-meter) band that runs along the edge of the reef drop off. This section is filled with dense stands of gorgonians and a maze of star coral mounds, offering ideal habitat for an incredibly diverse assemblage of reef fishes, including
angelfish, snapper, parrotfish, graysbies, coneys and grunts.

Route

Start by threading your way through the shallow corals in the surf zone, following the path laid out in the access section above. From there, swim in a southerly heading toward the drop off zone. The currents tend to come from the east at this site, so begin your dive by heading into the current. You can descend the wall or cruise along the top section of the dropoff zone as you advance to the east. There is plenty to see on the wall, but the upper edge of the drop off offers some of the best views of the site.

SAFETY TIP

The dive sites in the northwestern part of the island are remote. It is important to plan ahead and bring additional supplies that you might not otherwise bring for some of the more frequently-visited sites to the south. Packing plenty of water is important. Consider bringing a small first aid kit in your truck as well, to treat the types of small cuts and scrapes that are common when accessing
dive sites with high surf and shallow corals.

Many of the reef walls in this part of the island bottom out at 130 feet or more (40 meters). Given the time it would take to seek medical attention, it is advisable to avoid decompression dives in this area. These more remote locations offer healthy reefs that do not often get visited by other divers. But that carries the need for more planning and greater care.

60

8A

Tailor Made

83

1

52

BONAIRE

A slightly wider sand channel provides a good reference point to turn around and return toward the west. At the western edge of the dive, ascend to the plateau section of the site and start heading back toward the buoy. Take your time on your return route and be sure to look for species
hiding under the forest of gorgonians and soft corals, and within the maze of star coral mounds. Once you return to your starting point on the drop off zone, make your way back on a northerly heading, aiming for the gap in the reef through which you entered.

24

H

61

23

8A

Tailor Made

Other species commonly found at this site:

30

2

7

18

21

26

29

35

50

59

63

67

76

54

3

J

I

K

BONAIRE

62

8B

BONAIRE

Candyland

Kralendijk

Candyland

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Access about 39 mins from Kralendijk

Level Advanced Open Water

Location

Brasil plantation, Bonaire

GPS: 12°13’22.0”N, 68°24’3.5”W

Getting there

Candyland is not on the STINAPA list of official sites. It is located just west of the BOPEC (Bonaire Petroleum Corporation) facility right
before the coastline turns to head north. This part of the island is remote and getting there requires a four-wheel-drive vehicle, a full tank of gas and plenty of water. Plan for the drive to take about 39 minutes.

Head north out of downtown Kralendijk, taking the Queen’s highway out to the Karpata dive site. Once at Karpata, turn left onto Kaminoa Karpata. The road hugs the coast and you will soon see a

63

8B

Candyland

BONAIRE

saliña on your right. Head toward the gates of BOPEC but do not enter them; instead, turn right and take the dirt road north, which runs along the fence line. When the fence turns a corner, continue straight toward the paved section of road – a left turn leads to the washed out remains of the old road. Drive up and around the BOPEC facility before rejoining the coast about 1.5 miles (2.5 kilometers) later. The road hugs the coast for 0.25 miles (0.4 kilometers), with the ocean on your left and Saliña Tam on your right.

The small path down to the shore at Candyland is marked on either side with large rocks, just 200 feet (60 meters) before the road forks. Pull off to right-hand side of the road to park.

Access

A short path of crushed coral wends its way from the road down to the water’s edge at

Candyland. Like nearby Tailor Made, the entry into the water is challenging, with high surf that can easily knock a diver over. Be sure to put on your fins only after you enter the water, and kick quickly out through the waves into deeper water. There is a channel through the reef, directly in front of the path on shore, that will take you safely to the outer reef.

Description

The reef at Candyland is relatively pristine and the shallow back reef is known to be great for snorkeling; there are plenty of healthy brain and plate corals that snorkelers can observe from the surface. As with most sites in this part of the island, the surf can be high, so it is only suitable for strong swimmers. The reef slope here is known for its large coral pillars. Fish biodiversity is high, including large parrotfish, grunts, snapper and small grouper.

64

Karpata

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Karpata, Bonaire

GPS: 12°13’10.4”N, 68°21’06.7”W

Getting there

Karpata is located 8 miles (13 kilometers) north of Kralendijk by car – a 20-minute drive. Head north on Kaya Gob. N. Debrot past the Harbour Village Marina and Hato, where the road becomes Bulevar Gob. N. Debrot. The road moves inland at Sabadeco, also known as Santa Barbara Crowns, and returns to the coast at Oil Slick Leap where it becomes the Queen’s Highway. Just past the Tolo dive site, the road cuts inland for about 0.4 miles (0.7 kilometers) before returning to the coast. About 2 minutes later, the road passes through a stone wall and you will see the derelict Landhuis Karpata field station on the right; the site is marked with yellow rocks. There is plenty of parking on the left-hand side of the road, as well as picnic benches for a post-dive snack and rest. In total, Karpata is about 1.1 miles (1.8 kilometers) past the Tolo dive and snorkel site. It is the farthest dive site north that can be accessed easily without a four-wheel-drive vehicle.

9

Karpata is one of the best dive sites to run into juvenile and sub-adult sea turtles

BONAIRE

Kralendijk

Karpata

about 45 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 20 mins from Kralendijk

65

Isabelle Kuehn/Shutterstock ©

Access

Steps lead down from the parking lot to a small rocky beach. A concrete platform extends into the water; the safest place to enter and exit the water is to the right of this structure. Divers often use this platform for support as the rocky seabed and wave action can easily knock you down. Do not place cameras, masks or fins on the concrete platform because waves break over the top and often wash items into the water. The mooring buoy is located about 150 feet (46 meters) out from the beach and slightly to the north. Surface swim out toward the buoy and descend as rapidly as possible to avoid being pushed around by the waves.

Description

Karpata is one of the best-known dives sites in Bonaire and is one of the most northerly dive sites that receive a steady stream of visitors. It offers an amazing experience for both divers and snorkelers. The shallow back reef is full of gorgonians and hard corals, including star coral mounds and stands of elkhorn and staghorn coral. Green sea turtles regularly visit this site and are frequently seen in the shallow back reef, as are schools of squid and large rainbow parrotfish.

9

Karpata

BONAIRE

The drop off starts at a depth of about 25 feet (7.5 meters), although it can be partly obscured by the soft corals that cover the upper section of the reef wall. The reef drops sharply down to a depth of 150 feet (46 meters), with deep vertical grooves breaking the wall into distinct sections. The wall is covered in a combination of hard corals, sponges and gorgonians; sea whips abound, as do large elephant ear sponges. Some of the best diving can be done above a depth of 80 feet (24.5 meters).

As you work your way along the wall, be sure to look into the deep clefts in the reef for lobster and moray eels. A few old anchors are scattered around the site as well – remnants of when boats once anchored here.

Route

After entering the water, swim out toward the buoy. Descend to the reef wall and head east (left), as the King Willem-Alexander Marine Reserve is to the west and diving is not permitted there.

About halfway through your dive, ascend the

DID YOU KNOW?

The yellow building that sits across the road from the dive site carries the name of Landhuis Karpata, although the locals refer to it as Kas Grandi, which means big house in Papiamento. It was constructed in 1870 on the grounds of a fort that was originally established to protect the section of coast between the Kralendijk and Slagbaai ports from marauding pirates.

The property, originally known as the Borneo plantation, functioned for many years as an aloe and castor bean oil plantation. It was completely renovated and refurbished in the early 1980s and converted into a marine ecology center run by STINAPA. The building has now fallen into disrepair, but if you wander through the ruins you can still see the painted lettering on the walls indicating the roles played by different rooms and buildings, including Lodging, Office and a room for Dive Gear. The remnants of a wet lab used to study species in salt water tanks are also evident in one of the rooms.

66

9

Karpata

79

A

78

63

BONAIRE

wall and head back toward the buoy making your way along the top of the reef wall or through the shallower back reef. Exit where you entered, to the left (as you face the shore) of the concrete wharf, using it for support as you climb out on the slippery rocks.

There is so much to see on this dive, so do not rush the experience. Karpata is one of those dive sites that you will want to return to time and time again.

67

B

24

9

Karpata

Other species commonly found at this site:

58

I

K

24

34

46

57

62

65

67

76

82

84

49

23

G

F

H

BONAIRE

68

10

BONAIRE

La Dania’s Leap

Kralendijk

La Dania’s Leap

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

about 43 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 18 mins from Kralendijk

Level Advanced Open Water

Location

Karpata, Bonaire

GPS: 12°13’7.2”N, 068°20’53.0”W

Getting there

La Dania’s Leap is just under 8 miles (13 kilometers) north of Kralendijk by car – it is a mere 0.3 miles (0.5 kilometers) south of the famous Karpata dive site. Drive north on Kaya Gob. N. Debrot past the Harbour Village

Marina and Hato, where the road becomes Bulevar Gob. N. Debrot. The road moves inland at Sabadeco, also known as Santa Barbara Crowns, and returns to the coast at Oil Slick Leap where it becomes known as Queen’s Highway.

Continue past the 1,000 Steps and Tolo dive sites to where the road briefly cuts inland before returning to the coast a half mile later. Just 0.9 miles (1.4 kilometers) past the Tolo site the road takes a downhill grade and starts turning to the

69

10

La Dania’s Leap

BONAIRE

right. There you may see a yin-yang symbol on the road and a pathway on the left heading down toward the rocky shore. Parking at La Dania’s Leap is limited at best, so divers usually unload gear on the roadside here, before parking at Karpata and walking back along the road.

Access

Follow the path that leads from the road to the short cliff edge at La Dania’s Leap – a distance of about 200 feet (65 meters). The path starts out as a dirt track but it switches to dead, fossilized coral when you approach the shore. There is plenty of space down by the water’s edge, so consider carrying your gear down and putting it on once near the water.

There is a yellow rock at the entry point on the edge of the cliff that marks the short drop into the water, which is about 4 feet (1.2 meters) and can only be done one diver at a time. Once in the water, swim away from the cliff and toward the yellow marker buoy as quickly as possible, so you
do not get caught in a wave surge.

It is not possible to exit the water at this site, so divers typically head west, exiting the water at the adjacent Karpata dive site – another reason to park at the Karpata site. The dive takes approximately 30 minutes depending on the current. La Dania’s Leap is an incredible experience, but definitely not one for the faint-hearted.

Description

La Dania’s Leap is very similar to nearby Karpata. The reef is known as a fantastic vertical wall dive, offering divers the opportunity to see large grouper, snapper, parrotfish, angelfish and trumpetfish. The coral cover is dense and the reef wall is broken up by distinct sand channels. Many divers report that it is worth exploring the deeper reef areas of La Dania’s Leap, even though it means skipping the deeper sites at Karpata near the end of your dive. Fortunately, there is plenty to check out in Karpata’s shallower waters.

70

11

BONAIRE

Rappel

Kralendijk

Rappel

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Access about 42 mins from Kralendijk

Level Advanced Open Water

Location

Tolo, Bonaire

GPS: 12°13’03.1”N, 068°20’39.2”W

Getting there

Rappel is a boat-only dive site located at the base of a cliff located between the Bloodlet and La Dania’s Leap dive sites. It is approximately 6.5 miles (10.5 kilometers) north of Kralendijk by boat. This stretch

71

11

Rappel

BONAIRE

of the Bonaire coastline adjacent to the Queen’s Highway does not provide any opportunity for divers to exit the water until they reach Karpata, which is just over 0.5 miles (0.8 kilometers) northwest of Rappel. Reach out to your nearest dive center to find out when Rappel next appears on their schedule.

Access

The currents at Rappel can be quite strong. When that happens, this site is best suited to those with drift diving experience.

Description

Rappel is a popular dive site that got its name after the first divers to access this site did so
by rappelling down the cliff face, back before there were established mooring buoys. We do not recommend this method of entry, and it is much safer to access the site by boat. Rappel is sometimes referred to as Boka di Tota, and it is known for its incredible corals, including massive sea fans and other gorgonians, which cover the shallow shelf area and steep drop off. Divers will likely come across lobsters, nudibranchs and flamingo tongues, as well as patrolling tiger grouper and barracuda. French angelfish and bar jacks are also common here, as are cleaning stations. The cliff is undercut by a shallow cavern just below the waterline that can be very dangerous to explore given that currents are usually fairly strong at Rappel.

72

12

BONAIRE

Bloodlet

Kralendijk

Bloodlet

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Access about 41 mins from Kralendijk

Level Open Water

Location

Tolo, Bonaire

GPS: 12°12’56.6”N, 68°20’31.0”W

Getting there

Bloodlet is a boat-only dive located between Tolo and Karpata. It is approximately 6.2 miles (10 kilometers) north of Kralendijk by boat. The stretch of the Bonaire coastline adjacent to the Queen’s Highway has high, inaccessible

73

12

Bloodlet

BONAIRE

cliffs. It is possible to pick your way through the dense and thorny underbrush to make your way down to the rocky shoreline at Bloodlet, but we strongly recommend against this approach. Start your dive off on a positive note by accessing Bloodlet via boat; contact your nearest dive center to find out when they are next visiting this site.

Access

The currents at Bloodlet tend to be less strong than those at nearby Rappel because of the way the coastline projects into the ocean just east of the dive site. Bloodlet is more suitable for less-experienced divers relative to its neighboring site, but pay attention to conditions and modify your dive plan accordingly.

Description

Bloodlet gets its name from the price exacted from divers who are determined to dive this site as a shore dive. Much of Bonaire’s natural foliage is covered in thorns. And aside from the potential damage to your skin and your gear, it is simply not a fun way to make your way to a dive site. As such, Bloodlet is best accessed by boat. The site is known for its wide sandy plateau that shelters elkhorn coral and a dense reef structure that supports hard corals as well as sponges, including plenty of tube sponges and large elephant ear sponges. Turtles are known to frequent this site, as do schools of surgeonfish and tangs, and the occasional barracuda.

74

Kralendijk

Tolo (Ol’ Blue)

Staghorn corals thrive in the clear waters of Bonaire

Tolo (Ol’ Blue)

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Tolo, Bonaire

GPS: 12°12’55.4”N, 68°20’14.0”W

Getting there

Tolo is located 7 miles (11.2 kilometers) north of Kralendijk by car – a 17-minute journey. Drive north on Kaya Gob. N. Debrot past the Harbour Village Marina and Hato, where the road becomes Bulevar Gob. N. Debrot. The road moves inland at Sabadeco, also known as Santa Barbara Crowns, and returns to the coast at Oil Slick Leap, where it becomes known as Queen’s Highway. Continue north past 1,000 Steps.

Just under one mile (1.5 kilometers) after the road becomes one way in a northerly direction, you will see a green sign marked Tolo. There is a layby on the left-hand side of the road. Immediately after the layby is a small track on the left that leads to the Tolo parking area, which is marked with a yellow rock. The parking area consists of a flat plateau adjacent to a small cliff overlooking the dive and snorkel site.

Access

Several stone steps cut into the short cliff provide access to the beach. The steps are uneven and include rocks that are positioned to provide better footing, but divers may find it challenging to traverse wearing full dive gear. Take your time and tread carefully.

The beach itself consists largely of coral rock that transitions into a flat, sometimes slippery, coral plateau at the water’s edge. There is a mooring buoy at this site, anchored in the sandy back reef. It is placed close to the drop off, around 65 feet (20 meters) from shore.

Description

Tolo, sometimes referred to as Ol’ Blue, is one of only a few shore dives in the northern section of sites that has easy entry and exit points. It is also a spectacular dive site with an incredible reef

13

BONAIRE

and plenty of reef species. The site is protected from easterly winds because it sits in a bay carved out of the cliffs that run along much of this stretch of coastline. The limited current in the bay and the shallowness of the water between the shore and the reef line makes this a great site for snorkelers as well. And given the lack of development in the surrounding landscape, the corals and reef fish have thrived in the relatively pristine environment.

The flat back reef section of the site is stunning, with plenty of soft coral, as well as large stands of staghorn and yellow pencil coral – all on a backdrop of white coral sand. Patches of this sand occur throughout the area, creating mixed habitat that acts as a nursery for juvenile fish.

about 40 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 17 mins from Kralendijk

75

Andrew Jalbert/Shutterstock ©

13

Tolo (Ol’ Blue)

BONAIRE

Yellow pencil coral, in particular, offers excellent habitat for juveniles, and the presence of such high-quality nursery habitat so close to the reef slope helps support the adult population living on the primary reef.

The flat back reef transitions quite abruptly to the drop-off zone. This section of the reef wall is dominated by plate-form corals, which give the reef the appearance of a cheese grater. Toward the west, the reef transition is much more gradual, creating a more rounded section before it drops down as a wall, starting at around 40 feet

(12 meters). Boulder star corals and soft corals dominate this part of the reef.

Massive sponges appear throughout the site along the wall, particularly a huge orange elephant ear sponge found at 60 feet (18 meters) found in the eastern section of the reef wall. Tolo boasts its share of gorgonians along the flat upper section and on the face of the wall – particularly sea whips along the latter section. A myriad of reef fish, such as porcupinefish, rock beauties, fairy basslets, snapper and parrotfish round out the assemblage.

Route

A preferred route is to head out directly from the steps out toward the reef line – do not bother swimming out to the buoy. The coral rubble will soon give way to star coral, gorgonians and sea fans, before you get to a depth of 16 feet (5 meters) and the start of the reef slope. From there, drop down the wall to your target depth. The wall bottoms out at around 140 feet (43 meters) with plenty to see all the way down. Pay attention to your depth, as it is easy to be distracted by the pristine surroundings.

Once you have reached your target depth, turn toward the west. Note how this part of the reef is dominated by plate-form corals – a form
that corals often take at depth and on walls, where a flatter surface helps them collect more sunlight. Continue along the wall, ascending slowly as you go, passing purple sponges and porcupinefish, rock beauties, snapper and black margates. Look for lobsters in reef crevices and jacks feeding above the reef.

As you approach the western side of the reef, the plate-form coral starts giving way to high densities of boulder-form star corals. The reef wall eventually bends around slightly to the north, signaling that it is time to head up to the top of the reef. A tall column of coral that tops out at a depth of 35 feet (10.5 meters) is a useful landmark to watch out for near the top of the wall. But the

76

13

Tolo (Ol’ Blue)

1

82

23

BONAIRE

dive is far from over. The buoy is anchored at a depth of 16 feet (5 meters) right next to a massive stand of staghorn coral. The staghorn is about 65 feet (20 meters) from the reef line. As you pass the staghorn, you will swim through forests of gorgonians interspersed with small coral heads,
where you may spot plenty of parrotfish, even the relatively rare midnight parrotfish. The reef will eventually give way to rubble once again, as you head back toward shore and the exit point.

B

77

3

84

13

Tolo (Ol’ Blue)

Other species commonly found at this site:

24

8

9

10

14

19

23

25

30

40

51

54

65

52

2

I

4

BONAIRE

A

78

14

BONAIRE

Country Garden

Kralendijk

Country Garden

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Access about 38 mins from Kralendijk

Level Open Water

Location

Tolo plantation

GPS: 12°12’48.6”N, 68°20’02.2”W

Getting there

Country Garden is a boat dive located between

Tolo and Bon Bini Na Kas. It is almost 6 miles (10 kilometers) north of Kralendijk by boat. The Bonaire coastline that runs adjacent to this section of the Queen’s Highway has high, inaccessible cliffs. The sites in this region are therefore only suitable for boat diving. Check with your local dive center to find out when they are next scheduled to visit Country Garden.

79

14

Country Garden

BONAIRE

Access

The currents at Country Garden are generally modest. Divers of all experience levels will be able to access this site from a boat.

Description

Country Garden has also been called Mushroom City. The site is known for large limestone pillars that have separated from the cliff wall and
become encrusted with corals. These pillars now host a variety of reef fish, including soldierfish, squirrelfish, grunts and snapper. Cleaner fish, doctorfish and sharpnose puffers are also common at this site, along with honeycomb cowfish and graysbies. There are many holes along the reef where spotted morays and green morays can also be found.

RELAX & RECHARGE

On your return trip through Rincón, consider stopping in at Posada Para Mira. Located just west of town along Kaya Para Mira, the restaurant has a large covered terrace with exceptional views across the surrounding hills.

Its elevated position provides a gentle breeze while you dine on local cuisine at its best. Their specialties include traditionally made stoba di kabritu (goat stew) and sopi di yuana (iguana soup), served with range of local sides. Posada Para Mira is open from 11:00am to 6:00pm, Monday, Wednesday, Friday and the weekend.

80

15

BONAIRE

Bon Bini Na Kas

Kralendijk

Bon Bini Na Kas

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Access about 36 mins from Kralendijk

Level Open Water

Location

Tolo plantation

GPS: 12°12’43.8”N, 68°19’46.2”W

Getting there

Bon Bini Na Kas is a boat-only dive site located just north of 1,000 Steps, and close to 5.5 miles (9 kilometers) north of Kralendijk by boat. The Bonaire coastline that runs adjacent

81

15

Bon Bini Na Kas

BONAIRE

to the Queen’s Highway has high, inaccessible cliffs. The sites in this region are therefore only suitable for boat diving. Check with your local dive center to find out when they are next scheduled to visit Bon Bini Na Kas.

Access

The currents at Bon Bini Na Kas are generally moderate, making this dive site accessible by boat to divers of all experience levels.

Description

Bon Bini Na Kas means “welcome home” in Papiamentou, and you will hear “Bon Bini” echoed throughout Bonaire in a variety of contexts.

This site is known for its sea plumes and sea rods, as well stands of staghorn corals and large sponges. Divers also regularly see the reef fish associated with these various types of corals and sponges. These include trumpetfish, sharpnose puffers, filefish and wrasses. Turtles are also frequently seen at this site, and lobsters and green moray eels can be found in cracks and crevices in the reef.

82

The steps leading down to the water at 1000 Steps

1000 Steps

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Tolo, Bonaire

GPS: 12°12’38.8”N, 68°19’16.9”W

Getting there

1000 Steps is located 6 miles (9.5 kilometers) north of Kralendijk by car. Drive north on Kaya Gob. N. Debrot past the Harbour Village Marina and Hato, where the road becomes Bulevar Gob. N. Debrot. The road moves inland at Sabadeco, also known as Santa Barbara Crowns, and returns to the coast at Oil Slick Leap, where it becomes known as Queen’s Highway. About 0.9 miles (1.4 kilometers) down this road – a 3-minute drive – the road bends right as it ascends a small hill before turning back to the left. 1000 Steps is located 0.28 miles (0.45 kilometers) after this bend.

You will see ample parking on the right-hand side of the road, just after the entrance to Radio Nederland Wereldomroep (Radio Netherlands International Foundation). The steps down to the beach are on the opposite side of the road to the parking lot and are marked with yellow marking stones.

Access

1000 Steps is a very popular dive and snorkel site and can get busy at times. The cliff edge, where the stairs to the beach begin, offers incredible views of the bay and is a favorite photo spot. Take great care as you climb and descend the steps between the parking lot and the beach; they are uneven in places and can become slippery when wet. The beach is rocky, but access to the water is relatively easy. The mooring buoy is visible at the edge of the sandy back reef. Most divers surface swim toward the buoy, descend on the edge of the reef and head north.

Description

1000 Steps is one of the most famous dive and snorkel sites in Bonaire. The name comes from the long coral-stone staircase built in the late 1960s that divers must climb down (and back

16

BONAIRE

up again) with their heavy dive gear to access the site. It is a misnomer, however, in that there are only 72 steps, although it can feel like 1000 with wet gear slung over your shoulder. This location is another one of Bonaire’s sites that offers spectacular, high-quality corals and an abundance of reef creatures.

The shallow back reef has plenty of hard and soft corals set against a backdrop of white sand, which gives the bay its beautiful turquoise color when viewed from the clifftop. Large stands of delicate staghorn coral provide valuable habitat for a range of species, particularly grunts and damselfish, along with the juveniles of species that frequent

Kralendijk

1000 Steps

about 34 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 15 mins from Kralendijk

83

Andrew Jalbert/Shutterstock ©

16

BONAIRE

the deeper water, such as snapper and parrotfish.

The reef transitions from a gradual slope to a steeper drop off at around 30 feet (9 meters), just seaward of the yellow mooring buoy. Here, the reef becomes a steep wall with vertical grooves and accompanying sand channels. The grooves are not as pronounced as they are at the nearby Karpata dive site, but they still provide plenty of complexity, with large pillar-like coral mounds along the upper edge of the reef, some as large as 15 feet (4.5 meters).

The reef wall has plenty of sponges and sea whips, along with a dense mix of both coral
heads and plate-form corals. Turtles frequent this site, as do barracuda, jacks, parrotfish and a diverse array of other species, including morays, wrasses, a variety of boxfish. Lobsters are also often spotted in overhanging areas.

Route

Most divers head out toward the mooring buoy before descending the reef wall. From there, head north along the wall, keeping an eye open for the many cleaning stations found at this site. After about 20 to 30 minutes, make your way back toward the shore, leaving plenty of time to zig-zag your way through the shallow back reef, which is a wonderful area to explore.

1000 Steps

DID YOU KNOW?

1000 Steps is the last dive site along the Queen’s Highway where you can turn around and head back into Kralendijk directly. After 1000 Steps, the road becomes one-way only, which means you will have to continue north along the coast toward Karpata before returning to Kralendijk via the town of Rincón
and the interior of the island. This was done in part for safety, given the narrow roads, but also to help ensure visitors pass through the more remote Rincón. Fortunately, the town has plenty to offer hungry divers looking for a bite to eat and a drink after a day of diving. Some of the Relax & Recharge boxes in this guidebook are dedicated to Rincón-based eateries. Enjoy!

84

16

1000 Steps

65

A

82

36

BONAIRE

Snorkelers may venture out to the drop off, but most choose to focus their attention on the shallower back reef. This area is the ideal depth for snorkeling, has virtually no current and is one of the best places on the island to observe green sea turtles.

85

16

1000 Steps

Other species commonly found at this site:

46

26

27

28

29

30

32

59

60

61

66

67

69

F

16

8

4

12

BONAIRE

76

B

86

17

BONAIRE

Weber’s Joy (Witches Hut)

Kralendijk

Weber’s Joy (Witches Hut)

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Tolo, Bonaire

GPS: 12°12’24.0”N, 68°18’59.0”W

Getting there

Weber’s Joy is located about 5.3 miles (8.5
kilometers) north of Kralendijk by car – a 13- minute drive. Head north on Kaya Gob. N. Debrot past the Harbour Village Marina and Hato, where the road becomes Bulevar Gob. N. The road moves inland at Sabadeco, also known as Santa Barbara Crowns. The highway returns to the coast at the Oil Slick Leap dive site, where it becomes known as Queen’s Highway. Continue along the coastal road for just under

about 31 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 13 mins from Kralendijk

87

17

Weber’s Joy (Witches Hut)

BONAIRE

0.75 miles (1.2 kilometers) to reach the dive site – it is just 0.2 miles (0.3 kilometer) past the Jeff Davis Memorial dive site.

On the right-hand side of the road you will see a blue parking sign followed by an abandoned white building with a red roof. There is enough parking for several cars on either side of this building. A paved path to the dive site is located on the opposite side of the road and is marked with two yellow rocks.

Access

Follow the path down the steps to the shoreline. It can get a little slippery when wet, so watch your step. At the end of the path is a beach consisting of coral rock, which stretches a length of nearly 60 feet (18 meters). Step off the beach and swim directly
out into the water, avoiding the shallow reef immediately to the south. You will see a mooring buoy located 240 feet (73 meters) to the north of the beach.

Description

Some references call this site Witches Hut after the abandoned house that once graced the beach. This dive is well known to underwater photographers. It offers plenty of opportunity to get up close to colorful reef organisms, including giant anemone and their associated Pederson cleaner shrimps, corkscrew anemones, arrow crabs, octopuses and nudibranchs. Squid, parrotfish, angelfish (particularly grey angelfish and rock beauties) and soapfish are frequently seen swimming among the colorful variety of sponges and corals.

88

Rocks mark the path at Jeff Davis Memorial

Jeff Davis Memorial

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Tolo, Bonaire

GPS: 12°12’18.4”N, 68°18’49.”W

Getting there

Jeff Davis Memorial is located 5.2 miles (8.3 kilometers) north of Kralendijk by car – a 13-minute journey. Drive north on Kaya Gob. N. Debrot past the Harbour Village Marina and Hato, where the road becomes Bulevar Gob. N. Debrot. The road moves inland at Sabadeco, also known as Santa Barbara Crowns, and returns to the coast at Oil Slick Leap where it turns into Queen’s Highway.

Continue along this coastal road for a short while. You will see a small wall that runs along the left-hand side of the road by the shore and a cliff that rises to the right. The road winds for another minute or so after which you will see a blue parking sign on the right, followed by a layby with enough parking for several cars. A gravel path leads to the dive site starting on the opposite side of the road. Two yellow rocks mark the start of the path.

Access

Follow the path toward the shoreline where it turns right and heads down to a small sand and coral rubble beach. Divers and snorkelers must descend a small cliff, about 6 feet (2 meters) high, which can be challenging for some people. A mooring buoy sits 300 feet (92 meters) to the south of the beach. Divers wishing to visit Kalli’s Reef will have to swim even farther south, past the Jeff Davis Memorial Reef buoy. The Kalli’s Reef buoy can be reached after a surface swim of about 45 minutes to the southeast.

Description

Jeff Davis Memorial boasts a relatively shallow back reef leading to a steep reef slope. The reef bottoms out at a depth of 130 feet (40 meters) which is typical of the dives on the west coast of Bonaire. The back reef has plenty for snorkelers

18

BONAIRE

as well as divers to see. The area is dominated by gorgonians until the reef starts, at which point it transitions into hard coral, starting at a depth of 20 feet (6 meters). Juvenile reef fishes shelter in the complex habitat created by the gorgonians and corals, and divers may even be lucky enough to find seahorses and turtles here. If not, divers are almost guaranteed to see all manner of parrotfish, including Queen, princess, stoplight and the rare blue parrotfish, in and around the

Kralendijk

Jeff Davis Memorial

about 30 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 12 mins from Kralendijk

89

Reef Smart ©

18

Jeff Davis Memorial

BONAIRE

reef transition area. Divers also frequently spot pairs of butterflyfish and angelfish here.

The reef slope is steep, with large coral mounds interspersed with tube sponges. Vertical sand-bottomed chutes framed by hard corals break up the reef slope. Schools of creole wrasses stream across the face of the reef wall, while glasseye snapper shelter under the coral heads and ledges along the wall. Cleaning stations are abundant, including both shrimp stations and those
managed by juvenile Spanish hogfish, providing a great opportunity for macro-photographers. As with most sites in Bonaire, the most interesting sights are higher up on the wall and into the reef transition area. There are still corals and reef fishes to see lower down the wall, but these areas lack the diversity of the shallower depths.

This site is one of the island’s handful of coral restoration locations for staghorn coral. The Coral Restoration Foundation have placed
approximately 50 frames just south of the yellow mooring buoy in approximately 15 feet (4.5 meters) of water.

Route

After entering the water, surface swim around 300 feet (90 meters) to the south to reach the buoy. You can check out the coral transplant area next to the buoy or simply descend the reef slope to your target depth and make your way
in a north, northwest direction back toward the entry point. A large sand channel cuts into the reef toward the deeper edge of the slope, which can be interesting to explore.

Continue along the reef slope as you gradually ascend. You will pass a couple of large coral mounds between the depths of 30 and 50 feet (9 and 15 meters) that provide habitat for a number of coral reef organisms including fairy

90

18

Jeff Davis Memorial

22

51

17

BONAIRE

basslets, snapper and grunts.

Take your safety stop in the shallow back reef area while you explore the multitude of soft corals at a depth of 20 feet (6 meters). This habitat supports trumpetfish and sharpnose pufferfish, among many other species. The
greatest diversity in terms of corals and reef fishes is found on the north side of the buoy, so we recommend focusing your snorkel or dive time there. You can then exit relatively easily at the beach.

55

91

18

Jeff Davis Memorial

Other species commonly found at this site:

27

4

8

10

14

20

21

36

53

62

74

81

82

18

30

2

1

3

BONAIRE

73

63

92

19

BONAIRE

Kalli’s Reef

Kralendijk

Kalli’s Reef

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Tolo, Bonaire

GPS: 12°12’06.7”N, 68°18’37.0”W

Getting there

Kalli’s Reef is located 4.8 miles (7.7 kilometers) north of Kralendijk by car – a 12-minute
journey. Drive north on Kaya Gob. N. Debrot past the Harbour Village Marina and Hato, where the road becomes Bulevar Gob. N. Debrot. Just after Sabadeco, also known as Santa Barbara Crowns, the road turns sharply left toward the coast. You will pass the STINAPA headquarters on the left and see the ocean in front of you as the road descends toward the shore. The road takes another sharp turn, this

about 28 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 12 mins from Kralendijk

93

19

Kalli’s Reef

BONAIRE

time to the right, and runs north along the coast. Kalli’s Reef is located about 600 feet (183 meters) past the turn.

On the right-hand side of the road you will notice a parking sign, immediately followed by a layby on the side of the road next to a staircase that leads up to a house on the cliff above. There is no road marker here, but you will easily spot the mooring buoy that sits just 150 feet (45 meters) off shore.

Access

On the opposite side of the road to the layby, a small gravel path leads down to the shore. To access the sites, divers must climb down the small cliff to the water, which can be challenging for individuals carrying heavy dive gear. For this reason, Kalli’s Reef is most often accessed as a boat dive. Divers wanting
to access the site from shore can also opt to swim the 0.3 miles (0.5 kilometers) south from the adjacent Jeff Davis Memorial dive site. Plan for the surface swim to take 45 minutes, depending on conditions.

Description

Kalli’s Reef was named after the founding manager of the Bonaire National Marine Park, Kalli De Meyer. It is a popular dive site with both snorkelers and divers thanks to its moderate currents and diverse range of fish species. Divers will likely encounter barracuda, which are very common here. Triggerfish, pufferfish, black durgons, porcupinefish, and all types of angelfish can be seen in and around large sponges and hard corals. Sea turtles are also occasionally spotted here, as are Queen and blue parrotfish.

94

Oil Slick Leap

The view from above Oil Slick Leap

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

20

BONAIRE

Level Open Water

Location

Tolo, Bonaire

GPS: 12°12’00.9”N, 68°18’30.8”W

Getting there

Oil Slick Leap is located 4.7 miles (7.5 kilometers) north of Kralendijk by car – a 12-minute ride. Drive north on Kaya Gob. N. Debrot past the Harbour Village Marina and Hato, where the road becomes Bulevar Gob. N. Debrot. Just after Sabadeco, also known as Santa Barbara Crowns, the road turns sharply left towards the coast. You will pass the STINAPA headquarters on the left and see the ocean in front of you as the road descends toward the ocean. Just before the road takes a sharp turn to the right, heading north, you will notice a gravel road heading south. This short road leads to the parking lot next to Oil Slick Leap. There is plenty of parking available at this night.

Access

There is a relatively flat cliff area perched above the sea, located 75 feet (23 meters) away from the parking lot. A wooden platform built on the cliff’s edge includes a metal ladder that provides access to the water, which is 10 feet (3 meters) below. This is the safest way to reach the dive site, although some divers choose to take a giant stride off the cliff edge directly into the water. Divers descending the ladder should know that the last few steps may be slippery, or even missing. So take care. Once in the water, push away from the cliff edge, being careful not to accidentally kick the stands of elkhorn coral that grow close to the ladder. The buoy is located approximately 75 feet (23 meters) south of the platform.

Description

Oil Slick Leap allegedly got its name from when it was under consideration as a site for the Bonaire Petroleum Corporation (BOPEC) terminal. Fortunately for both divers and snorkelers, BOPEC was ultimately situated farther along the
coast toward the northwest, allowing access to this fantastic site.

Right from the start, this site delivers great habitat. As you enter the water, be careful of the stands of elkhorn coral located just to the southeast of the ladder. The depth at the base of the ladder is 17 feet (5 meters) but an uncontrolled entry or a brief lack of attention during your exit could damage the stand of living coral. There are several recesses near the ladder that contain schools of glassy sweepers. Decorator crabs have also been found along this stretch of wall.

Aside from the handful of living elkhorn

Kralendijk

Oil Slick Leap

about 27 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 12 mins from Kralendijk

95

The view from above Oil Slick Leap

20

Oil Slick Leap

BONAIRE

coral stands, coral rubble dominates the area between the base of the cliff and where the reef starts, interspersed with sand patches and groups of soft corals. This area provides ideal habitat for multiple cryptic species, including trumpetfish, slender filefish and even seahorses. Stingrays and barracuda are also often observed hunting in this area.

The reef slope at Oil Slick Leap descends in a
series of steps before dropping more steeply from 35 feet (10.5 meters) to over 100 feet (31 meters). The mooring buoy is anchored at a depth of 33 feet (10 meters) in a sand patch close to the edge of the drop off. Pencil coral surrounds the sand patch, providing shelter to plenty of juvenile reef fishes. Plate-form hard corals dominate the deeper areas of the reef, mixed in with the normal complement of tube and vase sponges.

Reef Smart ©

The Coral Restoration Foundation Bonaire has placed a coral nursery near the southern end of this site, around 480 feet (146 meters) along the shore from the entry point. The array is positioned about 75 feet (23 meters) from shore, in the middle of a mix of sand, patch reef and gorgonians, at a depth of 30 feet (9 meters).

Route

After entering the water, swim clear of the ladder to avoid getting pushed back against the cliff by waves and to allow other divers and snorkelers to enter and exit. If you have the chance, and are able to do so safely, check
out the stands of elkhorn coral and look for the glassy sweepers and decorator crabs along the cliff edge.

The plateau and cliff edge are great areas for snorkelers to explore as long as the wave action is not too strong. Divers should head toward the yellow mooring buoy and descend to the reef. The best route is to head southeast toward the coral nursery before looping back to the northwest toward the exit point. Much like other dive sites on the island, the best diving is in relatively shallow waters, down to a depth of approximately 60 feet (18 meters). Although the reef slope continues below that depth, it does

96

20

Oil Slick Leap

58

G

34

BONAIRE

not feature the same level of biodiversity and concentration of corals as the shallower area. As you head back past the buoy, you will encounter a large area of sand and coral rubble, which is a good landmark for returning to shore. As you wend your way through the coral rubble habitat
on your way back toward the ladder, keep watch for cryptic species such as scorpionfish, yellowhead jawfish and small eels such as goldentail morays.

E

83

97

30

12

20

Oil Slick Leap

Other species commonly found at this site:

54

32

40

49

51

52

53

57

63

65

73

79

82

45

3

F

21

BONAIRE

98

21

BONAIRE

Barcadera

Kralendijk

Barcadera

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Access about 26 mins from Kralendijk

Level Open Water

Location

Sabadeco, Bonaire

GPS: 12°11’54.6”N, 68°18’24.3”W

Getting there

Barcadera (also Barkadera) is a boat-only dive site located just off shore from Sabadeco, also
known as Santa Barbara Crowns. It is a 4-mile (6.5-kilometer) boat ride north of Kralendijk. Coastal development in this area means the site can now only be visited by boat.

Access

The currents at Barcadera can be moderate to strong depending on the conditions. This dive site is accessible to divers of all experience levels

99

21

Barcadera

BONAIRE

unless conditions are rough.

Description

Barcadera is known for stands of elkhorn coral and yellow pencil coral heads. Divers will typically see schools of tangs along with plenty of parrotfish, butterflyfish, trumpetfish and Spanish hogfish. The reef is
densely covered in hard corals throughout, with a transition to plate-form corals farther down the reef slope. There are plenty of cleaning stations located throughout the site, while other species known to frequent Barcadera include squirrelfish, filefish and creole wrasses. Barracuda are also common.

SCIENTIFIC INSIGHT

Fish school for many reasons, including protection against predators and better swimming efficiency. The schools of acanthurids (the genus Acanthuridae, which includes surgeonfish, doctorfish and blue tangs) common in Bonaire and elsewhere in the Caribbean are formed largely to improve foraging success. These species feed on turf algae, which is often
aggressively defended by damselfish. By forming large schools that move over the reef as one, acanthurids can overwhelm the damselfish, letting more fish in the school feed than if they were foraging alone. Divers and snorkelers are more likely to see acanthurids schooling at dawn and dusk, which also suggests that these schools might help protect the fish, as dawn and dusk are the periods of the day when risk from predators is highest.

100

22

BONAIRE

Andrea II

Kralendijk

Andrea II

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Sabadeco, Bonaire

GPS: 12°11’29.4”N, 68°17’51.6”W

Getting there

The Andrea I and Andrea II dive sites are along the coast of Sabadeco, also known as Santa

Barbara Crowns, 3.4 miles (5.5 kilometers) north of Kralendijk by car – a 10-minute drive. Head north on Kaya Gob. N. Debrot, past the Harbour Village Marina and through Hato. The coastal road turns sharply inland as you exit the town, followed by a left turn as it returns to a northerly heading. Less than 0.5 miles (0.7 kilometers) after this turn you will see a yellow wall on the left-hand side of the road; this wall marks the

about 21 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 12 mins from Kralendijk

101

22

Andrea II

BONAIRE

entrance to a residential development. Yellow rocks marked with Andrea I and Andrea II sit on either side of the road at the entrance.

To reach Andrea II, turn right immediately after entering the estate and follow the road north. Take the first left turn, about 600 feet (180 meters) down the road, where a yellow rock marks the route to Andrea II. The road descends a slope toward the water and into a parking lot adjacent to the beach; there is enough room for several cars. A large drop at the bottom of the slope can cause damage to vehicles, even those with four-wheel drive. So take care as you enter the parking lot or consider parking before the slope where there is also space.

Access

You can walk directly into the water from the shoreline parking area, taking care to
step over the large rocks on the beach. The mooring buoy is located to the north of the parking lot.

Description

Andrea II experiences weak to moderate currents, which makes it the easier of the two Andrea dives. The site is well known for its plate-form coral formations at a depth of 65 feet (20 meters) as well as for the abundance of soft corals in shallower waters. Divers and snorkelers can see stands of staghorn coral as well. Take some time to investigate the soft coral habitat, which shelters seahorses, turtles and slender filefish. Parrotfish are common at Andrea II, particularly Queen parrotfish, and divers will likely see plenty of jacks hunting along the reef drop off, along with patrolling barracuda.

102

Andrea I

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

23

Kralendijk

Andrea I

BONAIRE

Level Advanced open water

Location

Sabadeco, Bonaire

GPS: 12°11’17.2”N, 68°17’47.3”W

Getting there

The Andrea I and Andrea II dive sites are along the coast of Sabadeco, also known as Santa

Barbara Crowns, 3.4 miles (5.5 kilometers) north of Kralendijk by car – a 10-minute drive. Head north on Kaya Gob. N. Debrot past the Harbour Village Marina and through Hato. The coastal road turns sharply inland as you leave town, followed by a left turn as it returns to a northerly heading. Less than 0.5 miles (0.7 kilometers) after this turn you will see a yellow wall on the left-hand side of the road; this wall marks the

about 21 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 12 mins from Kralendijk

103

23

aNDREA I

BONAIRE

entrance to a residential development. Yellow rocks marked with Andrea I and Andrea II sit on either side of the road at the entrance.

To reach Andrea I, turn left immediately after entering the estate and follow the road south. After about 0.2 miles (0.3 kilometers), the road turns right and heads toward the water. At the intersection, you will see a stone wall in front of you and a narrow track that leads down and to the right, in the direction of a beach that has plenty of parking.

Access

From the parking lot, walk 130 feet (40 meters) north between the small trees and bushes to a painted rock that indicates the safest place from shore to enter and exit the dive site. Kick straight out from the shore to avoid the fire coral stands to the left and right. Before you
descend, take another look at the shore, so you can try and return to the same location. The mooring buoy is anchored slightly to the north of the parking area, but you can descend directly onto the reef and start exploring. This dive and snorkel site is accessible to those with more experience due to the strong currents.

Description

Andrea I is known for its schools of tangs and surgeonfish, along with plenty of brown and blue chromis. The site boasts its share of hard and soft corals, including fire corals that flank the entry point, and a broad complement of sponges that draw regular visits from turtles. Divers should look for banded butterflyfish and bar jacks, as well as various species of parrotfish, including midnight and rainbow parrotfish.

104

24

BONAIRE

Petrie’s Pillar

Kralendijk

Petrie’s Pillar

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Sabadeco, Bonaire

GPS: 12°11’10.6”N, 68°17’48.9”W

Getting there

Petrie’s Pillar is located between Hato and

Sabadeco, just 2.8 miles (4.5 kilometers) north of Kralendijk by boat. This site is best done as a boat dive because it is adjacent to a small cliff that makes it dangerous to reach from the shore. However, the site can be reached by surface swimming from nearby Andrea I. (To access this site from the shore, follow the driving directions to Andrea I on

about 20 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 12 mins from Kralendijk

105

24

Petrie’s Pillar

BONAIRE

the preceding page, then read the access information below.)

Access

The Petrie’s Pillar mooring buoy is visible from the Andrea I dive site parking lot. From the parking lot, walk 130 feet (40 meters) north between the small trees and bushes to a painted rock that indicates the safest place from shore to enter and exit the dive site. Kick straight out from the shore to avoid the fire coral to the left and right.

The buoy at Petrie’s Pillar is just over 750 feet (230 meters) to the south of the entry/exit point for Andrea I, which is a significant distance for some divers. Be sure to check the current before you commit to the swim and consider diving
another site if there is a strong current that makes returning to Andrea I a challenge.

Description

This site often experiences more moderate currents than nearby Andrea I. The site gets its name from the pillar corals that are found here (local lore holds that Captain Don, who named many of Bonaire’s sites, named this site after a friend as a wedding gift). Stands of elkhorn coral are also common, and the site is popular with snorkelers since the coral grows very close to the shore. Snorkelers and divers will likely encounter parrotfish, as well as schools of tangs and surgeonfish, squid and the occasional turtle. Frogfish, soapfish and scrawled filefish are also regular visitors to this reef.

106

A diver approaches the anchor on Small Wall

Small Wall

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Hato, Bonaire

GPS: 12°10’47.1”N, 68°17’37.0”W

Getting there

Small Wall is located about 2.3 miles (3.7 kilometers) north of Kralendijk by boat, just off shore from the Black Durgon Inn. Unfortunately, coastal development in this area has eliminated the shoreline access at this site, meaning divers can only get there by boat. Check with a local dive center to see when they are next visiting the site.

Access

The main section of Small Wall is located just south of the yellow mooring buoy, which is anchored on a sandy seabed at a depth of 15 feet (4.5 meters), and 27 feet (8 meters) from the reef line. There is a second, smaller section of wall located just north of the buoy. This site is easily accessible by boat and is a great dive for novice to advanced divers. It also makes for an interesting night dive.

Description

Small Wall gets its name from the most interesting feature at this site: a small wall positioned in the middle of the reef slope. The inshore part of the site is dominated by coral rubble and sand. This habitat gives way to reef consisting of a mix of hard and soft corals interspersed with sand patches at around 150 feet (46 meters) from shore, and at a depth of 18 feet (6 meters). Here the reef descends at a gentle slope, increasing dramatically in steepness at a depth of around 37 feet (11 meters), which marks the top of the wall.

The wall bottoms out at a depth of around 55 feet to 60 feet (17 to 18 meters), where a narrow sand channel runs parallel to shore. About halfway along the base of the wall, at a depth of 60 feet (18 meters), divers will see a cave that may hold a resting nurse shark. The cave measures 13 feet (4 meters) in from the opening and it has a sandy floor.

25

BONAIRE

Just beyond the main sand channel, the reef continues deeper at a slightly gentler slope, eventually bottoming out at a depth of 115 feet (35 meters). This deeper reef slope is dominated by plate-form corals and large elephant ear sponges. Divers will likely encounter tarpon hanging out on the deeper reef slope, while the wall itself offers a colorful mix of coral heads and wire coral, along with plenty of reef fish, including parrotfish, basslets, grunts, snapper, small grouper and even seahorses. Large mixed schools of surgeonfish and tangs are often found in the upper sections of the reef.

Kralendijk

Small Wall

Access about 16 mins from Kralendijk

107

blue-sea.cz/Shutterstock ©

25

Small Wall

BONAIRE

RELAX & RECHARGE

Between 2 Buns is located on Kaya Gob. N. Debrot, just north of the roundabout adjacent to the Trans World Radio studios. It is a small café that has a range of breakfast and lunch options for busy divers who want to “refuel” while they
explore the island. Between 2 Buns serves great coffee, pastries, smoothies and the kind of deluxe sandwiches that people like to photograph and post to social media before they consume. They also have free internet.

Route

The mooring buoy sits between the two sections of wall. It can be interesting to explore both sections during this dive. However, the large southern section has the cave at its mid-point and is by far the more interesting of the two sections.

If the current allows, start out by heading north and explore the smaller section of wall before cutting back to visit the larger southern section. The two walls are separated by approximately 180 feet (55 meters) of patchy coral reef where schooling surgeons and tangs are often found.

As you reach the second wall, descend to the base of the wall and swim along the sand channel until you reach the cave, or drop below the sand channel and explore the lower reef slope with its elephant ear sponges and plate-form corals. Be sure to check out the cave, but please leave sleeping sharks alone.

At its southern end of the wall, the sand channel ascends to a depth of 43 feet (13 meters) and heads toward shore, effectively cutting off the wall from the rest of the reef –

108

25

Small Wall

30

6

BONAIRE

this marks a decent turning point.

The wall at Small Wall offers a spectacular experience for divers, but so too does the reef slope above the wall. As you return to the mooring buoy, keep an eye open for the
cryptic seahorses that divers regularly report seeing among the soft corals and sea whips along the upper edge of this dive site.

109

25

Small Wall

Other species commonly found at this site:

58

11

17

18

21

27

55

63

74

76

79

81

84

2

57

70

34

4

3

5

BONAIRE

72

73

110

Coopers Barge

Tarpon are a common site on Coopers Barge

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Technical / Advanced Open Water

Location

Hato, Bonaire

GPS (Cliff parking): 12°10’31.4”N, 68°17’31.1”W

Getting there

Coopers Barge is located directly in front of Bonaire’s desalination plant in Hato, which is about 2 miles (3.2 kilometers) north of Kralendijk. Members of the public are not permitted on the grounds of the desalination plant, so the only way to access the site is either by boat or by swimming from Cliff (use the “Getting there” information for Cliff on page 116).

Access

A short path with several steps that are lined with yellow painted rocks, leads from the parking lot to the sea next to Dive Friends Bonaire. A yellow marker with an arrow, located on the sand and rubble beach, indicates the best spot to enter the water. There is a pipe underwater that cuts a path through the abundant blade fire coral close to shore. Follow this pipe to reach the reef safely and head north to reach Coopers Barge, which lies directly between the two large commercial ship mooring buoys that mark the northern and southern ends of this site.

25A

BONAIRE

Description

Coopers Barge, also known as Barge 101, is an unmarked site and one of the few technical dive sites on Bonaire. Originally a flat-bottomed tugboat used to transport drinking water from Curaçao, Coopers Barge sank in 1972 just off shore from the Bonaire desalination plant.

The wreck initially settled in shallower waters, but an early salvage attempt ended up leaving it at the bottom of the reef slope in deeper water and resting perpendicular to the reef. The angled stern

Kralendijk

Coopers Barge

about 14 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 7 mins from Kralendijk

SAFETY TIP

Coopers Barge is a deep dive that sits right on the edge of recreational SCUBA diving depth limits. Bottom time on air is extremely limited at this depth and divers can easily slip into a decompression dive if they are not careful. As such, we recommend that this site only be visited by technical divers with training in deep diving. Additionally, divers should note that access to this site is not permitted if a ship is located on the moorings.

111

25A

Coopers Barge

BONAIRE

Michael BVI/Shutterstock ©

DID YOU KNOW?

For centuries, drinking water in Bonaire was available only through rain water collection and by a limited number of wells in the interior of the island – most of which produced brackish water. Bonaire supplemented its water supply by importing drinking water from Curaçao until water shortages in the 1960s made it clear that Bonaire’s growing population could no longer be supported by these limited means. Construction of a desalination plant in 1963 allowed Bonaire to produce drinking water from seawater through a process known as thermal desalination, which involves boiling seawater to produce a pure water vapor. The downside of this process is that it also produces a warm water residue with a high concentration of salt, which can be harmful to marine life when discharged directly into the ocean. The original desalination plant was replaced with the one currently in use today, which produces fresh drinking water through reverse osmosis – a process that involves passing seawater through a semi-permeable membrane at high temperature without generating residue that ends up back in the ocean.

points toward shore at a depth of around 125 feet (38 meters), while the rounded bow sits in deeper waters at 150 feet (46 meters). Deck level ranges from 115 to 140 feet (35 to 42.5 meters), which is at the limit of recreational diving.

Sponges and soft corals, including sea whips, have colonized the hull of the barge. A number of reef fish now call the wreck home, including snapper, black margates, porcupinefish and large numbers of tarpon, as well as territorial

112

25A

Coopers Barge

70

11

65

H

BONAIRE

sergeant majors that can be seen guarding their colored egg patches during the breeding season.

On the whole though, the wreck is not known for hosting a wide diversity of marine life. The wreck’s hull is intact although there is no superstructure
present. Open hatches in the deck theoretically allow for access to the interior of the wreck, but penetration is strongly advised against.

Route

Enter the water at the Cliff dive site and surface

113

54

25A

Coopers Barge

Other species commonly found at this site:

48

2

5

28

39

43

47

52

56

62

64

75

78

31

42

25

G

F

1

BONAIRE

114

25A

Coopers Barge

70

BONAIRE

swim in a northwest direction along the coast toward the southern-most mooring buoy of the desalination plant. Start descending to the reef before you reach it and continue swimming northwest along the reef slope at a depth of about 20 meters (65.5 feet). The barge
should come into view, lying on the sand just off the deep edge of the reef. Tour the wreck and observe the marine life, before ascending to a shallower depth and heading back in the direction of the Cliff dive site.

42

115

H

25A

Coopers Barge

11

BONAIRE

Coopers Barge

Tugboat

Barge 101

100ft (30m)

Unknown

Unknown

Unknown

1972

Name:

Type:

Previous names:

Length:

Tonnage:

Construction:

Last owner:

Sunk:

116

Colorful creole wrasses school above a coral reef

The Cliff

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Hato, Bonaire

GPS: 12°10’28.0”N, 068°17’24.4”W

Getting there

The Cliff is located 1.9 miles (3.1 kilometers) north of Kralendijk by car. Head north on Kaya Gob. N. Debrot from Kralendijk past the Harbour Village Marina and straight on over the roundabout by the Trans World Radio studios. Immediately after the Hamlet Oasis Resort there is a gate on the left marked The Hamlet, and signage for Dive Friends Bonaire. The side road runs to the sea and ends in a parking lot with plenty of space next to Dive Friends Bonaire. The gate is often locked outside of dive center hours (8:00am to 5:00pm daily), but you can still access the parking area and dive site through the Hamlet Oasis Resort.

Access

A short path leads from the parking lot to the sea next to Dive Friends Bonaire, It includes several steps lined with yellow marking stones. Once on the sand and rubble beach, you will see a yellow marker with an arrow indicating the best spot to enter the water. An underwater pipe cuts a path through the abundant blade fire coral close to shore. Follow this pipe to reach the reef safely. The buoy is located at the southern end of the site adjacent to a monument of a dive flag at half-mast. Visibility is generally good and currents are usually mild. This site is suitable for all divers.

Description

The Cliff is a steep fringing reef that becomes a wall dive in several places. The Wall, which is covered in sea whips, starts at a depth of about 25 feet (7.5 meters) and drops sharply down to a depth of 55 feet (17 meters). The wall is undercut in several places, and a narrow sand path runs along its base. Below the sand path the reef continues to slope less steeply down to a sandy seafloor at about 120 feet (36.5 meters). Large elephant ear

26

BONAIRE

sponges, plate-form star corals and scroll corals can be found between small sand patches in the deeper parts of the reef. Garden eels and sand tilefish can be found in the sand at the base of the reef although there is no need to venture this deep. Large fish, such as tarpon and horse-eye jacks, cruise the deeper parts of the reef. Graysbies

Kralendijk

The Cliff

about 13 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 6 mins from Kralendijk

117

Andrew Jalbert/Shutterstock ©

26

The Cliff

BONAIRE

are particularly common around the steep walls where brown and blue chromis (a favorite food of graysbies) school above the reef.

Snorkelers also find this a very enjoyable site, with plenty of colorful fish, such as butterflyfish, angelfish and even some large rainbow parrotfish. Small moray eels, gobies and blennies can also be found hiding among the blade fire coral in the shallow parts of this site. And in the shallows above the wall,
snorkelers can check out the dive memorial (complete with a dive flag at half mast) that commemorates “all divers who have gone before us.”

Route

Once divers pass through the fire coral close to shore, they will notice the reef start to slope gradually into deeper water. Head south as you descend, and you will notice the reef becomes a wall that runs for about 150 feet (46 meters)

until it reaches a wide sand channel running perpendicular to shore. Take the time to drop slightly deeper down the reef slope in order to observe the plate-form coral and elephant ear sponges and look for large predatory fish, such as tarpon. The second wall begins after the sand
channel and is longer than the first section.

Swimming along the sand ledge at the base of the second wall at a depth of around 55 feet (17 meters) provides a decent vantage point to observe many reef organisms,

118

26

The Cliff

77

24

BONAIRE

including trumpetfish, angelfish, snapper, grunts and parrotfish. Also look for corkscrew anemones with their associated Pederson cleaning shrimp.

There is another sand channel at the end of
the second section of reef. Take this channel to return to the top of the reef slope and the dive memorial at a depth of 25 feet (7.5 meters). Return to the entry/exit point along the sand, where you may notice palometas and even the occasional stingray or eagle ray.

68

119

2

57

26

The Cliff

Other species commonly found at this site:

42

9

10

17

20

30

37

44

45

66

74

81

84

G

1

E

7

BONAIRE

70

120

La Machaca

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Hato, Bonaire

GPS: 12°10’20.0”N, 68°17’18.6”W

Getting there

La Machaca is a small wreck located immediately off the jetty at Captain Don’s Habitat – a dive resort located approximately 1.6 miles (2.6 kilometers) north of Kralendijk by car. Head north on Kaya Gob. N. Debrot from Kralendijk, past the Harbour Village Marina and straight on over the roundabout by the Trans World Radio studios. Turn left off the main road into Captain Don’s Habitat where you will find plenty of parking. Divers who are not staying at that resort are charged an access fee of around $5 USD to use the rinse tanks and showers, but the fee is sometimes waived in low season. Check in at the reception or dive center when you arrive.

La Machaca can also be reached by swimming from Buddy Dive Resort, immediately to the south, which does not charge an access fee (use the “Getting there” information for Reef Scientifico and Buddy’s Reef on page 124).

Access

Enter the water by walking down the steps of the smaller of the two jetties. The larger jetty is more commonly used for dive-boat access. It is possible to take a giant stride from the end of the smaller jetty, but the water here is slightly shallower than at the nearby Buddy Reef jetty, so it is important to ensure that your jump entry is shallow. Captain Don’s Habitat has placed a line on the seabed in front of the smaller jetty to help divers navigate from the jetty to the reef and back again.

Description

The wreck of La Machaca is a popular site with both snorkelers and divers given the ease of access, mild currents and the opportunity to see plenty of reef fishes, not to mention the availability of refreshments and other facilities at

27

La Machaca is shallow enough to be viewed by snorkelers

BONAIRE

the resort.

The highlight is the small 45-foot (14-meter) wreck of La Machaca that sits upside down on the sandy seafloor at a depth of 40 feet (12 meters). Gorgonians have colonized the wreck and divers may be lucky enough to spot the resident green moray eel that is said to live in the wreck.

The back reef, between the jetty and the wreck, consists mainly of sand and coral rubble, but divers and snorkelers can encounter plenty of marine life, including stingrays, yellowhead jawfish and even the occasional octopus. The reef starts taking shape at around 200 feet (60 meters) from shore and drops

Kralendijk

La Machaca

about 12 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 4 mins from Kralendijk

121

Stubblefield Photography/Shutterstock ©

27

La Machaca

BONAIRE

SAFETY TIP

Shore diving is a big part of what makes Bonaire so accessible to divers. And with mooring buoys located out by the reef line, it is relatively safe for divers to swim out to the drop off on most sites without a surface marker buoy (SMB). The rules of the marine reserve limit boat navigation to the dark water. However, dive sites located closer to downtown Kralendijk, and particularly sites with active piers such as Captain Don’s Habitat, have a higher risk of boat traffic across the shallow waters. Pay attention as you enter and exit the water, and if you are diving at a site adjacent to a dive center or resort, it is good practice to check-in with staff before you depart and after you return in order to ensure you are diving safely.

gradually to a depth of more than 100 feet (30 meters). The reef has a medium density of boulder corals and tube sponges. Divers will see schools of creole wrasse as well as plenty of parrotfish weaving through the coral heads. As the reef slope gets deeper, the boulder corals give way to plate-form corals mixed in with sea whips and giant, orange, elephant ear sponges. Snapper and tarpon are common in the deeper areas of the reef.

With its well-lit entry and exit points, this site is popular as a night dive, when divers and snorkelers
may see moray eels and sleeping parrotfish, as well as large tarpon that hunt the smaller fish attracted to dive lights.

Route

Most divers and snorkelers can easily explore La Machaca and much of the neighboring reef in a single outing by following a roughly circular route. Enter the water at the jetty and follow the line in the water to reach the reef. La Machaca is located slightly to the south of the line and should be clearly visible as you reach the upper reef area.

122

27

La Machaca

I

28

12

BONAIRE

Head south from the wreck to explore Reef Scientifico / Buddy’s Reef; or alternatively, head north toward Cliff. Most divers should be able to reach the dive memorial located at the southern end of the Cliff dive site before having to return.

At the end of your dive, follow the line to return to the jetty, but be sure to save some air to explore the back reef area as you return to shore. This habit has plenty of cryptic marine life, including stingrays, jawfish and octopuses.

84

123

39

27

La Machaca

Other species commonly found at this site:

36

19

21

25

26

29

35

45

47

56

57

74

81

70

16

15

17

BONAIRE

77

78

124

Reef Scientifico / Buddy’s Reef

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

9

FLORIDA

Reef Smart ©

Level Open Water

Location

Hato, Bonaire

Reef Scientifico

GPS (The reef): 12°10’17.4”N, 68°17’21.4”W

Buddy’s Reef

GPS (Unloading area): 12°10’14.9”N, 68°17’17.3”W

Getting There

Reef Scientifico and Buddy’s Reef combine to form the house reef of Buddy Dive Resort, located approximately 1.5 miles (2.4 kilometers) north of Kralendijk by car. Head north on Kaya Gob. N. Debrot from Kralendijk past the Harbour Village Marina. Buddy Dive Resort is located about a one-minute drive or 0.25 miles (0.4 kilometers) north of the roundabout by the Trans World Radio studios. Once at Buddy Dive Resort, make your way to the water where you can unload your gear at a small turning circle between the dive center and the Blennies Restaurant. Due to the limited
parking here, all vehicles must park nearer the main road. Buddy Dive Resort does not charge a fee for access or use of their facilities, but you should check with the dive center or resort reception before accessing the site.

Access

Once your car is safely parked by the entrance, away from the unloading area, gear up and access the water by walking down the steps on either side of the smaller jetty, or taking a giant stride off the end. The larger, L-shaped, jetty is more commonly used for dive-boat access. Buddy Dive Resort has placed a line on the seabed in front of the smaller jetty to help divers navigate from the jetty to the reef and back again.

Description

Buddy’s Reef is a popular dive and snorkel site that provides a relaxed and pleasant experience with mild currents and convenient access both day and night. Just north of Buddy’s Reef is

A view of the small jetty from the large jetty at Buddy Dive Resort

BONAIRE

Kralendijk

Reef Scientifico / Buddy’s Reef

28/29

about 11 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 4 mins from Kralendijk

125

9

Reef Scientifico / Buddy’s Reef

FLORIDA

A diver monitors stands of staghorn coral

another dive site called Reef Scientifico, which is a section of reef marked by a small grid used by researchers to monitor coral cover over time. Between Buddy’s Reef and Reef Scientifico, there are a number of features anchored to the sandy seafloor that range from frames used for diver buoyancy control training, to coral “trees” that are used as a nursery for growing staghorn coral under the oversight of the Coral Reef Foundation Bonaire (see pages 18 and 19 for more information).

Despite being labeled as two separate dive sites, Buddy’s Reef and Reef Scientifico are very similar to one another – they are essentially contiguous sections of the same reef slope that stretches from the Buddy Dive Resort property to the wreck of La Machaca and onward to the north.

The transition from sand and coral rubble to patch reef begins at around 150 feet (45 meters) from shore, at a depth of about 35 feet (10.5 meters). From the transition zone, the slope
descends to more than 100 feet (30 meters) to the sandy seafloor. The top section of the reef slope is dominated by sponges and boulder corals. A mix of gorgonians adds to the complexity of the reef, creating habitat that supports a variety of reef fishes, including filefish, trumpetfish, grunts, parrotfish and small grouper.

As the reef slope gets deeper, the boulder coral gives way to plate-form coral, interspersed with sea whips and elephant ear sponges. Although the slope offers an opportunity to go deep, the best diving is above a depth of 65 feet (20 meters). Be sure to check out the back reef as you return to the jetty. Jawfish, octopuses and squid can be found in the sandy areas and grey snapper are always present beneath the jetties.

This site is also very popular as a night dive thanks to the well-lit entry and exit point, and accessible staircases that are just as easy to navigate at night as they are during the day. The reef offers divers a different view at night, including moray eels and large tarpon that tend

Courtesy of David Fishman ©

BONAIRE

28/29

RELAX & RECHARGE

Exploring the reef in front of Buddy Dive Resort is often a relaxing way to spend the day, with simple access as well as showers and rinse tanks readily on hand. But if you want to take the experience to the next level (literally) then head upstairs from the dive center and stay for dinner at Ingridients Restaurant. This peaceful establishment has
developed a reputation for fine dining, great service and spectacular views, especially if you can arrive in time to watch the sun set into the clear blue ocean. The cuisine is essentially Mediterranean, using elements of French, Spanish and Italian dishes, but with local ingredients where possible, such as lionfish, red snapper, barracuda and tuna.

Visit: Buddydive.com/ingridients

126

Reef Scientifico / Buddy’s Reef

12

77

48

BONAIRE

28/29

to congregate around night divers to hunt the small fish that are attracted to their dive lights.

Route

Swim directly out from the smaller of the two jetties and descend the reef slope to your target
depth. You can choose to head north or south, depending on the direction of the current and what you want to see. Head north to check out Reef Scientifico and the wreck of La Machaca. To the south, the reef slope continues uninterrupted all the way to Bari Reef.

54

84

127

52

Reef Scientifico / Buddy’s Reef

Other species commonly found at this site:

45

21

26

27

29

35

36

47

53

56

57

70

82

51

78

19

1

20

BONAIRE

28/29

128

Bari / Front Porch

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Kralendijk, Bonaire

Bari

GPS: 12°10’02.0”N, 68°17’13.1”W

Front Porch

GPS: 12°09’54.2”N, 68°17’12.4”W

Getting there

These neighboring sites are often explored together, and can be reached from either the north (Bari’s Reef) or the south (Front Porch). To enter from the south end of the site, drive north from Kralendijk on Kaya Gob. N. Debrot and turn left immediately after the Harbour Village Marina, where a sign indicates Spice Beach Club, Eden Beach and Wanna Dive. After you turn in, take the track that bends off to the right and terminates at the beach tennis courts. There is plenty of parking here.

To enter from the north side, continue along Kaya Gob. N. Debrot from Kralendijk and take the dirt track on the left at the roundabout by the Trans World Radio studios; a sign adjacent to the track says Breeze and Bites. Continue through the gravel car park to the shoreline, past a yellow rock with Bari Reef written on it. When you reach the shore you will see an abandoned building to the south and a private pier to the north.

A snorkeler enjoys the company of a green sea turtle

BONAIRE

Enter the water between these structures adjacent to the collapsed concrete pier. This area is sometimes called the “aquarium” and is a decent snorkeling area. There is no yellow mooring buoy at Front Porch, but Bari has one.

Access

Entering the water at either end of this double site is relatively easy, with a small sandy beach and water depth that increases gradually. The site typically has a fairly constant current ranging from mild to moderate. Always swim against the current and drift back to your starting point.

Kralendijk

Bari / Front Porch

30/31

about 9 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 3 mins from Kralendijk

SCIENTIFIC INSIGHT

Biodiversity is a term used to describe the variety of life in a particular habitat or ecosystem. It is the hallmark of a healthy environment, since more biodiverse systems tend to be more productive, more stable and altogether more robust than systems that support fewer species, regardless of how abundant those species are. Think of it as an important factor in an ecosystem’s ability to withstand, or rebound from, negative events, such as storms, disease outbreaks and the introduction of an invasive species, such as the introduction of lionfish in the Western Atlantic.

129

Jag_cz /Shutterstock ©

Bari / Front Porch

BONAIRE

Alternatively, drift with the current and return to your starting point along the beach.

Description

Bari Reef and Front Porch are adjacent sites that sit just north of the Harbour Village Marina, which is located just north of the downtown waterfront. Together, the two reefs offer over 1,000 feet (330 meters) of reef slope that is readily accessible from shore or by boat. This site is a great spot for divers and snorkelers of all experience levels.

Bari Reef is known for its incredible diversity of species. The reef slope starts nearly 150 feet (45 meters) from shore, while the slope runs closer to the beach along Front Porch, at just 70 feet (22 meters) from the waterline. The reef slope, which consists predominantly of hard corals and a range of sponge species, begins at a depth of 30 feet (9 meters) and descends to the sandy seafloor at a depth of between 80 and 100 feet (24 and 30 meters). Snorkelers often focus their attention on the collapsed concrete pier
structure near the water’s edge, which supports large schools of fish, including grunts, goatfish, chromis, surgeonfish and redlip blennies.

Vertical sand channels descend all the way to the seafloor, breaking up the reef slope between the two sites. At Front Porch, the reef becomes increasingly patchy, and contains a number of artificial structures, such as scaffolding, concrete blocks, barrels and metal beams. Biodiversity is still high, and scorpionfish, moray eels and soapfish are particularly common. Divers and snorkelers will notice the large cylindrical mooring structure that sits on the seabed at a depth of 40 feet (12 meters), as well as the coral restoration trees at a depth of 20 feet (6 meters) in front of the beach entry and exit point. The Coral Restoration Foundation Bonaire (CRF) uses these coral trees, which are anchored to the seafloor at a depth of 22 feet (6.5 meters), to grow fragments of staghorn coral into larger, healthier coral heads for transplanting to other coral reefs around the island. Please maintain a respectful distance.

30/31

130

30/31

Bari / Front Porch

60

43

BONAIRE

At the base of the reef slope, divers will spot the wreck of the tugboat New York at a depth of 90 feet (27.5 meters). Garden eels have colonized the sand at the base of the reef and divers may also spot rays patrolling the deeper waters here.

Route

Your route will depend on whether you enter the water at Bari Reef or Front Porch. For either site, consider entering the water and swimming out to the start of the reef slope before descending to your target depth. If you are starting at Front Porch, consider dropping all the way down to

44

131

G

30/31

Bari / Front Porch

45

11

BONAIRE

Other species commonly found at this site:

19

6

7

8

9

10

18

20

26

27

37

40

46

4

3

5

44

132

31

Front Porch

70

11

BONAIRE

the sand and coral rubble seafloor below to check out the wreck located there. The transition area between the reef and sandy seafloor offers plenty of variation to the habitat, which helps encourage and support the incredible biodiversity of this site.

As discussed in the access section, this site tends to have a fairly constant current that ranges from mild to moderate. Always swim against the current and drift back to the starting point. Alternatively, drift with the current and return to the starting point by walking back along the beach.

133

31

Front Porch

44

BONAIRE

134

Frogfish are often hard to spot when hiding in the reef

Something Special (Pali Grande)

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Kralendijk, Bonaire

GPS: 12°09’43.1”N, 68°16’59.9”W

Getting there

From downtown Kralendijk head north toward the Harbour Village Marina, about 0.8 miles (1.3 kilometers) on Kaya Gob. N. Debrot – a journey of about two minutes by car. There is a small parking lot on the left-hand side, just after the turning for Kaya J.N.E. Craane and just before Gooodive, where the road starts to bend toward the right. Leave your vehicle in this parking lot and walk down the paved road to the beach – a distance of about 230 feet (70 meters). You will pass through three bollards next to a small house painted orange. Veer right and enter the water in front of the house.

Access

Make your way down the small sand and gravel slope to the beach and enter the water next to the white wall. You can surface kick out to the yacht moorings before descending and heading north. The yellow mooring buoy is located about 330 feet (100 meters) to the north, close to the edge of a large sand channel. This site is an area of high boat traffic, so stay close to the bottom. Snorkelers should not venture too far out from the mooring buoys.

Description

Something Special is also known as Pali Grande. The English name is believed to originate from the near guarantee that divers will see “something special” during their dive. The site’s close proximity to the harbor has impacted the level of coral cover on the reef, and the site has a limited number of hard corals and sponges, along with anemones sprinkled throughout the area. However, the site is better known for its wide variety of reef fish, particularly elusive and cryptic bottom-dwelling species such as frogfish, scorpionfish, sailfin blennies and yellowhead jawfish. But do not think that

32

BONAIRE

this site is only for small creatures; it is not uncommon to see eagle rays and turtles cruise through.

The area between the shoreline and the drop off stretches 200 feet (60 meters) and consists primarily of gravel and coral rubble. At a depth of nearly 30 feet (10 meters), the reef starts to drop away at a fairly steep angle, getting a little steeper and almost wall-like, at the northwestern end of the site. Some corals are even undercut in places. To the north, a large sand channel containing garden eels interrupts

Kralendijk

Something Special (Pali Grande)

about 6 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 2 mins from Kralendijk

135

Sarawut Kundej/Shutterstock ©

32

Something Special (Pali Grande)

BONAIRE

the reef. This channel provides a good reference point to turn and head back south. Divers and snorkelers should avoid crossing the sand channel; it marks the Harbour Village Marina boat lane and boat traffic increases significantly.

In the back reef at the southeastern end of the reef, the Coral Restoration Foundation Bonaire (CRF) has established a site featuring multiple coral trees anchored to the seafloor at a depth of about 20 feet (6 meters). These coral trees can be interesting to check out, but please be careful not to touch the coral fragments or
otherwise disturb the site. (See pages 18 and 19 for more information.)

Route

Swim out from the beach and slightly to the west toward the mooring buoys, passing to the right of the CRF site. Descend to the reef and head northwest along the slope. Make your way along the reef toward the sand channel and return following a slightly shallower route.

The best area of this reef to explore is along the sand-to-reef transition where frogfish and

ECO TIP

When conducted responsibly and sustain-ably, aquariums can help the public develop a greater appreciation and understanding of coral reefs. But all too often, the aquarium trade involves the illegal and unsustainable poaching of organisms from living reefs. Frogfish and seahorses are particularly lucrative targets in the aquarium trade
because of their unique appearance. While frogfish are not themselves threatened, seahorse populations have declined across much of their distribution, in part due to harvesting for the aquarium trade. Bonaire has strict rules prohibiting the collection and removal of anything living or dead from the reef – which includes dead pieces of coral you might pick up in shallow water or on the beach.

136

32

Something Special (Pali Grande)

73

71

41

44

BONAIRE

anemones can be found among the coral heads and sailfin blennies and jawfish can be found in the sand. This is not a large site – a circular route can take less than 30 minutes to complete. The ideal way to explore this site is therefore to do so slowly and carefully. Bottom time is not an
issue in the upper reef area, so take your time – you never know what you may find.

137

32

Something Special (Pali Grande)

Other species commonly found at this site:

40

8

17

19

26

27

29

51

55

57

60

61

77

38

12

2

1

4

BONAIRE

74

81

138

34

BONAIRE

Calabas Reef

Kralendijk

Calabas Reef

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Access about 5 mins from Kralendijk

Level Open Water

Location

Kralendijk, Bonaire

GPS: 12°08’30.5”N, 68°16’33.1”W

Getting there

From downtown Kralendijk, loop around Stadion Kralendijk and head south on Kaya International. Turn right at the roundabout and head west toward the coast on Kaya Industria. After about 0.15 miles (0.25 kilometers), the road ends at a junction with the Divi Flamingo Beach Resort and Casino directly in front. Calabas Reef can be accessed through the resort, which only charges a fee ($10 USD) if you wish to stay and use the
facilities, such as the pool and beach chairs.

If you prefer to use the public access to Calabas Reef, turn left at the junction in front of Divi Flamingo Beach Resort and Casino. Continue south along Julio A. Abraham Boulevard for about 0.19 miles (0.3 kilometers) and cross over the speed bumps. On the right-hand side just after the Carib Inn, you will notice a small track called Kaya Alemania that leads to the sea. There is no parking on this side street, so divers should unload their gear and park back on Julio A. Abraham Boulevard. The total distance from downtown is only about half a mile (0.8 kilometers), but the drive can take a good five minutes, depending on traffic.

139

34

Calabas Reef

BONAIRE

Access

Calabas Reef is easily accessible from the jetty at the Divi Flamingo Beach Resort, where steps lead directly into the water. This simple and well-lit entry and exit point also makes this dive site great for night diving. The relatively shallow reef in front of the resort provides a decent experience for snorkelers as well.

The reef is arguably of better quality to the south, at the public access point. Divers and snorkelers must descend a shallow slope to reach the gravel and sand beach. They must then carefully negotiate the rutted and flat reef area at the waterline. There are steps down to the beach closer to the jetty at the end of the road. Once in the water, sand stretches out to the reef line.

Divers and snorkelers should be aware that boat traffic is often higher in this stretch of coastal water than elsewhere in Bonaire. There is no buoy or yellow marker rock at this site.

Description

Calabas Reef (sometimes spelled Kalabas) is located just south of downtown Kralendijk. The reef has suffered from its proximity to the heavy boat traffic to and from the Town Pier to the north, but it still offers divers and snorkelers an easily accessible reef to dive, particularly if you are staying at the nearby Divi Flamingo Beach Resort and Casino. The site is known for its schools of goatfish, grunts and snapper, but also for parrotfish, turtles, rays, squid and even the occasional seahorse.

DID YOU KNOW?

Were you looking for Site #33 aka Town Pier? It is no longer listed as an official dive sit by STINAPA and the Marine Park. It was a popular site in Bonaire due to its high biodiversity, and was often touted as a “must-do” night dive by many visitors. But Town Pier is also a working
commercial harbor with significant boat and cruise ship activity. STINAPA was forced to close the site due to safety concerns, and it was removed from their official list of Bonaire dive sites in 2018. Please respect the decision and consider diving at the Salt Pier, which provides a comparable experience.

140

35

BONAIRE

18th Palm

Kralendijk

18th Palm

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Kralendijk, Bonaire

GPS: 12°08’16.6”N, 68°16’35.0”W

Getting there

The 18th Palm dive and snorkel site lies just off the Van der Valk Plaza Beach Resort Bonaire,
between the airport and downtown Kralendijk. To reach the resort, drive south from Kralendijk along Julio A. Abraham Boulevard and enter the gravel parking lot at the point where the road bends east toward Kaya International.

You will see a blue gate with a yellow marker rock on the ground that says 18th Palm. The sign on the gate tells visitors to ring the bell for access to the site between 9:00am and 5:00pm; outside of

about 5 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 6 mins from Kralendijk

141

35

18th Palm

BONAIRE

these hours, visitors should access the site via the resort’s main reception farther up the road.

Staff from the visitor center located next to the gate will let you in when you ring the bell. Access to the reef is free unless you wish to use the facilities. In that case, you can choose the fee you pay. A $10 USD fee includes use of the beach chairs and a choice of drink from the bar. A fee of $99 USD provides full access to the beach, pool and the lunch and dinner buffets, along with unlimited drinks and snacks at the beach bar.

Access

Once inside the resort, you can access the reef either by walking straight into the water from the beach or walking south to the small jetty at the opposite end of the beach, where steps lead directly into the water. A yellow mooring buoy is located in the water at this end of the beach.

Description

18th Palm is also sometimes known as Eighteen Palms or 18 Palms. The name originates with the 18 palm trees that stand tall on the nearby resort property. This site is known for a gentle current and its fantastic marine life, both large and small. Divers and snorkelers can see everything here from large tarpon to cryptic frogfish. Barracuda, snapper and octopuses are also regularly spotted here, making this a great spot for divers and snorkelers of all experience levels.

The reef line starts around 230 feet (70 meters) from shore and has a gentle slope that gradually steepens before reaching bottom at around 100 feet (30 meters). The reef is wide in places, and stingrays, eagle rays and even manta rays can be found cruising in the deeper parts of the reef.

142

Windsock

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

9

FLORIDA

Peter Leahy/Shutterstock ©

Level Open Water

Location

Belnem, Bonaire

GPS: 12°07’58.3”N, 68°16’54.7”W

Getting There

Windsock is located at the end of the airport runway, which is the origin of this site’s name. Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya International, which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the airport. At the point where the road bends slightly left and runs adjacent to Playa Palu di Mangel, also known as Donkey Beach by tourists, you will see a large pier stretching 150 feet (46 meters) into the water. Pull over to the side of the road just past this jetty. You should see yellow marker rocks on the side of the road indicating that you have reached Windsock.

Access

Access to the water is relatively simple along this stretch of the coast. Pass through the shrubs to the beach – a distance of about 70 feet (20 meters) from the road. Be careful not to trip on any small rocks or accidentally step on the spiky branches of the acacia trees that are abundant in this area. The water’s edge may be rutted in places, so watch your step as you enter. Fortunately, the seas are generally calm here, particularly in the sheltered area just south of the pier.

Description

The reef at this site starts out as turf-covered sand and rubble that gradually slopes down to a depth of 25 feet (7.5 meters). The shallowness of the reef line means that snorkelers will have no problem seeing the top of the reef and the species that frequent this type of habitat. From

Yellowhead jawfish are often seen close to their burrow in the rubble-filled back reef

BONAIRE

Kralendijk

Windsock

36

about 6 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 7 mins from Kralendijk

143

9

Windsock

FLORIDA

The popular Kite City food truck offers beachside dining

the reef line, the slope transitions into patchy reef before becoming a predominantly hard coral reef, interspersed with gorgonians and sponges.

The reef gradually descends to a sandy bottom at 95 feet (29 meters) at the north end of the beach, by the pier. The density of corals is lower at this site than at some of the sites farther south. The coral heads are smaller as well, although there are still plenty of reef fish to see, including black margates, chub and plenty of chromis schooling above the reef. This site also offers the opportunity to see larger pelagic species out in deeper waters as they patrol just off the reef slope. Do not forget to look seaward while you dive.

The base of the slope gets deeper the farther south you go, bottoming out at around 115 feet (35 meters). As a result, watch your depth if your route takes you from north to the south to make sure you are not descending deeper than you intend. Also, currents can be strong here as the water is forced through the narrow gap between Klein Bonaire and the main island. Pay attention to the conditions and adjust your dive plan accordingly.

Route

Given that access points exist all along the beach, you can choose either a clockwise or counter-clockwise route. We recommend entering the water to the south of the pier and swimming out toward the buoy, using it as a reference point. From there you have another 33 feet (10 meters) of coral and rubble and a few isolated gorgonians before you reach the reef line at a depth of 26 feet (8 meters). Descend the reef slope, keeping an eye on your depth and on the sandy bottom for the occasional eagle ray or stingray. Barracuda are known to hang out near the lower sections of the slope as well.

Once you have reached your target depth, turn northward, scanning the reef for angelfish, grunts and filefish. The middle of the reef slope is the best area to explore, so make your way north through this area, rising slowly to extend your bottom time – although this section of reef is small enough and shallow enough that you should have no problem diving it all with plenty of bottom time to spare. At the northern end of the reef you will see the pillars of the fueling pier at a depth of 18 feet (5.5 meters). If you remain

Reef Smart ©

BONAIRE

36

RELAX & RECHARGE

Bonaire has a number of great restaurants, but it also boasts some delicious food trucks that hungry divers can enjoy during their surface intervals. If you like fresh fish sandwiches and wraps, you best check out the Kite City food truck conveniently located on Te Amo beach just north of the Windsock dive and snorkel site. Nuno and Co. serve up a wide selection of fish, including perennial favorites like wahoo, mahi mahi and snapper. The food is simple, fresh and incredibly tasty. You can take out if you like, but the best option is usually to “eat in” on the beach and enjoy the view. Your food will come on a proper plate, rather than ecologically insensitive plastic or polystyrene. We also recommend the chilled homemade watermelon juice, which really quenches the thirst.

144

36

Windsock

12

28

60

31

BONAIRE

at the bottom of the reef, you may notice a large tractor tire that provides a reference point to make your turn toward shore. Leave some time to check out the pylons of the pier, and the grey snapper and Bermuda chub schooling in the shadows. From there, head south along the reef line, stopping to look for yellowhead jawfish and
sailfin bennies in the sand and rubble back reef.

If a ship is docked at the pier, you will need to adjust the route described above, as it is unsafe to venture near a commercial boat moored next to the pier. Choose a different site or simply head south from the buoy instead.

145

36

Windsock

Other species commonly found at this site:

36

9

10

17

25

27

33

38

43

53

61

62

71

51

64

4

F

7

BONAIRE

81

74

146

37

BONAIRE

Corporal Meiss (North Belnem)

Kralendijk

Corporal Meiss (North Belnem)

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

about7 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 7 mins from Kralendijk

Level Open Water

Location

Belnem, Bonaire

GPS: 12°07’52.3”N, 68°17’01.2”W

Getting there

Corporal Meiss is an oft-overlooked shore dive and snorkel site located adjacent to Windsock at the southern end of Palu di Mangel Beach, also known as Donkey Beach. Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya International, which becomes EEG Boulevard
as you pass the airport. Continue past the jetty that marks the north end of Windsock and pull over where the fence marking the end of the runway cuts back away from the road. You will notice a yellow rock that says Corporal Meiss on it. There is plenty of parking on either side of the road.

Access

There are several paths from the road through the shrubs to the shoreline, both immediately at the end of the runway and also farther south nearer the white wall of the Bonairian Restaurant. The last

147

37

Corporal Meiss (North Belnem)

BONAIRE

RELAX & RECHARGE

Cactus Blue is another of Bonaire’s premier food trucks. It is located on the main road adjacent to the Corporal Meiss dive and snorkel site, and it serves delicious wraps and burgers. But it is the fresh lionfish burger that most people crave. The food truck operates from 11:00am to 3:00pm, but try to
get there by noon if you want to eat lionfish, as the supply is limited and they sell out fast. There is plenty of shade under the divi trees that line the beach at this spot, so “eat in,” relax and soak in the atmosphere. And if you are still hungry after your meal, try the homemade chocolate and peanut dessert they call Flamingo Droppings.

Visit: Cactusblue.us

few yards to the water’s edge are the trickiest, with a shallow gravel slope that can give way under foot when wearing heavy dive gear. The beach is rocky and rutted in places, but access to the site is not too challenging relative to others. The back reef is largely sand and patch reef, and the yellow mooring buoy is located 200 feet (61 meters) off the beach.

Description

While Corporal Meiss, also sometimes known
as North Belnem, offers an interesting level of biodiversity, most divers seem to skip this site in favor of Windsock to the north or Bachelor’s Beach to the south. As such, the site is rarely crowded with other divers. It is easy to access, and simple and rewarding to explore. Barracuda are often found patrolling the deeper part of this reef, while turtles and octopuses are also common here, as well as soapfish and small snake eel species such as the golden spotted eel and the sharptail eel.

148

Bachelor’s Beach (Fondu Di Kalki)

The white sand and inviting water at Bachelor’s Beach

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Belnem, Bonaire

GPS: 12°07’31.9”N, 68°17’14.0”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya International, which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the airport. Bachelor’s Beach is located in a gap between the houses that line this stretch of coast, about half a mile (just under one kilometer) past the end of the airport runway. Pass through the intersection with Kaya IR. Randolph Statius van Eps on the left, as it heads to the east coast. Just 50 feet (15 meters) after this intersection, you will see a large open area on the right-hand side of the road, which is the parking lot adjacent to Bachelor’s Beach. Two yellow marker rocks are present in the parking lot.

Access

Bachelor’s Beach is reached by descending the set of stairs located in the middle of the cliff overlooking the water. You may need to use the rocks to descend the last few steps to the beach.

38

BONAIRE

Simply walk down the beach and into the water. The mooring buoy is located about 300 feet (91 meters) directly out from the beach.

Description

The name Bachelor’s Beach applies to both the popular white sand beach at this location and the reef that sits just off shore. This site is popular

Kralendijk

Bachelor’s Beach (Fondu Di Kalki)

about 11 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 8 mins from Kralendijk

RELAX & RECHARGE

King Kong Burger is a food truck located at Bachelor’s Beach. They only serve burgers, hotdogs and fries, but boy do they do those well. There is a reason King Kong Burger is consistently voted the number one restaurant in Bonaire. They offer a range of ways to vary, or “pimp out,” your standard burger by adding elements such as brie, bacon, honey and nuts. The fries are also outstanding and can be “juiced” with a little truffle paste and parmesan, or, in the case of their famous Mosquito Repellent Fries, tossed with garlic and fresh parsley. They even have outstanding options for veggie burgers and hotdogs. Do not miss this Bonaire highlight.

149

The white sand and inviting water at Bachelor’s Beach

38

Bachelor’s Beach (Fondu Di Kalki)

BONAIRE

for both diving and snorkeling, with a relatively shallow back reef protected from wave action and currents.

The beach itself, known as Fondu di Kalki in Papiamentou, is narrow – only 20 feet (6 meters) wide. But the white sands continue out to the reef line that sits 300 feet (91 meters) away, lending the waters of the small bay a vivid turquoise color. The sandy back reef is far from devoid of life, however, with peacock flounders, grunts and goatfish common throughout.

There are large stands of staghorn, elkhorn and blade fire coral in the back reef, as well as patches of gorgonians. The back reef slopes gently out to the mooring buoy, which is located at a depth of 30 feet (9 meters). At this point the reef transitions to denser corals on the reef slope, with numerous brain and star coral mounds interspersed with
soft corals. The complexity of the reef here helps support many more species of reef fishes, including trumpetfish, schools of chromis and creole wrasse, pufferfish and parrotfish, to name just a few. Divers often describe Bachelor’s Beach as having something for everyone.

The lack of current, relative shallowness of the reef and the easy, convenient access to the site also makes this a preferred site for night divers. In fact, visiting Bachelor’s Beach during both day and night gives you the opportunity to see very different versions of the same reef. At night, divers can see spotted moray eels on the prowl and yellowline arrow crabs out looking for bristleworms and tube worms. Night divers can also expect company from large tarpon, which often approach night divers to hunt the small fish that congregate in and around their dive lights.

Reef Smart ©

150

38

Bachelor’s Beach (Fondu Di Kalki)

46

55

BONAIRE

Route

The route is the same for both night and day dives. Make your way out toward the buoy, enjoying the back reef and its creatures as you go. Once at the buoy, descend to the reef slope and head either left or right. To the north you
will notice several objects, such as discarded barrels and pipes. To the south a large pillar coral rises above the rest of the reef like a tower, and provides a useful reference point for where to turn around.

151

51

38

Bachelor’s Beach (Fondu Di Kalki)

Other species commonly found at this site:

52

20

31

36

39

43

45

53

56

62

64

65

68

B

17

10

19

BONAIRE

58

82

152

38

Bachelor’s Beach (Fondu Di Kalki)

46

75

BONAIRE

There is plenty to see in the shallows at Bachelor‘s Beach and it is worth spending some time checking out the back reef, particularly the large stands of staghorn coral. The deeper parts of this reef are also interesting to explore, particularly the deep edge transition from reef to
sand. The transition at this site is patchier than it is elsewhere, and occurs at a depth of around 90 feet (27 meters). Hamlets, tiger grouper and even cubera snapper have been spotted in the deeper areas of this reef.

153

70

82

38

Bachelor’s Beach (Fondu Di Kalki)

BONAIRE

154

39

BONAIRE

Chez Hines

Kralendijk

Chez Hines

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Access about 15 mins from Kralendijk

Level Open Water

Location

Belnem, Bonaire

GPS: 12°07’08.8”N, 68°17’37.0”W

Getting there

Chez Hines is a boat-access-only dive and snorkel site. Consult with a local dive center to see when they are next visiting Chez Hines in their schedule.

155

39

Chez Hines

BONAIRE

Access

This site is a great one for both snorkelers and divers, but the currents can be strong at times. What’s more, advanced and tech divers may want to check out the deeper second reef. Although it is not as clearly defined as the second reefs present in sites to the south, it can still be interesting to explore.

Description

Chez Hines is another dive site that used to be readily accessible as a shore dive, but coastal development has since limited access. Sometimes referred to as South Belnem, this site offers divers the opportunity to choose
a range of depths. For those individuals who wish to remain in shallower waters, whether snorkeling or diving, the shallow plateau at this site has plenty of pretty coral heads scattered around. The site is best known for regular sightings of turtles, parrotfish, cowfish, filefish and trumpetfish.

Divers with the experience to visit deeper waters can descend all the way to the bottom of the reef at a depth of 120 feet (37 meters). There they can explore the deep second reef, where green morays, nurse sharks, tiger grouper and black grouper have been spotted.

156

40

BONAIRE

Lighthouse Point

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Advanced Open Water

Location

Belnem, Bonaire

GPS: 12°06’44.8”N, 68°17’39.3”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya International, which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the airport. Just under 2 miles (3 kilometers) from the airport, or a drive of about 4 minutes, turn right onto
the road that leads to the Lighthouse Beach Resort. A white replica lighthouse with LBR written on the side marks your turn.

Continue down the driveway to the resort until you reach a large gravel parking area, about 350 feet (107 meters) from the main road. Turn left and cut across the parking lot to the south. At the south end of the parking lot there is a small road; follow this road to the right and continue 400 feet (122 meters) to the shore. Directly in front of you should be

Kralendijk

Lighthouse Point

about 18 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 11 mins from Kralendijk

157

several old tiki-style parasols located in a sheltered, sandy area next to a small wall. Beyond that wall is the access to the dive site. There is plenty of parking in this area.

Access

Currents can be strong here as the water rounds the point. Coastal development has restricted shore access at this site, but the Getting There info directs you to the south end of the reef. Divers should gear up in the parking lot and walk over to the tiki-style parasols. You may need to take off your tank in order to get over the short concrete wall. Unfortunately, the beach to the north is for resort guests only.

Enter the water and swim around the headland toward the north. The surface swim is just over 500 feet (150 meters), which can be challenging depending on the strength and direction of the currents. For this reason, Lighthouse Point is best done as a boat dive.

Description

Lighthouse Point is located at the westernmost point of this section of Bonaire’s coastline. It gets its name from the adjacent Lighthouse Beach Resort and its position at the point where the currents from the south intersect with those from the north as they pass through the narrow channel between the main island and Klein Bonaire. These conditions mean the reef here supports a wide diversity of life.

The site is known to host stingrays and snake eels in the shallow sand-bottomed plateau that extends over 330 feet (100 meters) from shore. Here, the coral heads and gorgonians dominate the reef before it drops off in a steep slope down to a depth of 100 feet (30 meters). Schoolmaster snapper are particularly abundant on this reef, as well as butterflyfish and parrotfish. Small grouper, such as grasbies and coneys, and basslets are common in the deeper parts of the reef.

40

Lighthouse Point

BONAIRE

158

41

BONAIRE

Punt Vierkant

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Belnem, Bonaire

GPS: 12°06’35.0”N, 68°17’31.1”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya

International, which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the airport. Just over 2 miles (3.4 kilometers) after the airport – a drive of about 4 minutes – is a partially constructed hotel. Now abandoned, this building is known as the Esmeralda Ruins, and it used to be the best access point for the Punt Vierkant dive site. But in 2018, the yellow marker was moved 150 feet (46 meters) down the road to the adjacent lot

Kralendijk

Punt Vierkant

Access about 11 mins from Kralendijk

159

because new construction is planned for the Esmeralda site. Pull off the main road and park next to the newly constructed house adjacent to the shore.

Access

The walk from the parking lot to the shore is only about 100 feet (30 meters), but there are numerous rocks and a rutted reef ledge with holes that can cause you to twist an ankle and fall, so take care as you enter the water. There is no mooring buoy at this site, thus it is only accesible from shore.

Description

Punt Vierkant means “Square Point” in Dutch, possibly a reference to the 90 degree angle formed by the point along this section of the coastline. As the northernmost site along this section of southern coastline, Punt Vierkant
is sometimes subjected to strong currents. It is also the first site to boast a clearly defined double reef system, which is characteristic of many southern dive sites. Punt Vierkant is actually the point where the double reef starts, and if you head north from this site you may see where the two reefs join. The first reef slope descends to a sand channel at 85 feet (26 meters), the second reef rises slightly before continuing down to depths of over 120 feet (35 meters). This site is known for its profusion of hard and soft corals in shallow waters, including fire corals, and a dense reef slope featuring brain and star corals. Large schools of creole wrasse are found here, along with some pelagic species, such as horse-eye jacks, bar jacks and rainbow runners. Sand tilefish and stingrays are sometimes found between the two reefs.

41

Punt Vierkant

BONAIRE

160

Please do not remove any conch shells you may see

The Lake

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Belnem, Bonaire

GPS: 12°06’26.4”N, 68°17’23.5”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya International, which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the airport. After Bachelor’s Beach, the road bends slightly away from the coastline for about 0.75 miles (1.2 kilometers) before returning to the shore just before The Lake dive site. You will see a sand and rubble parking area next to the water, immediately after the row of houses on the right-hand side of the road. The site is marked with two yellow rocks at the entrance to the parking lot. The site is just under 2.5 miles from the airport (3.8 kilometers) – a drive of about 5 minutes.

Access

Gear up and walk from the parking lot to the water’s edge. There are a few rocks to step over to enter the water, but access is relatively easy compared to other sites. A sand and rubble channel that is roughly 40 feet (12 meters) wide provides access through the reef. The yellow mooring buoy is located on the shoreward edge of the reef and slightly south of the parking lot.

Description

The Lake gets its name from the “lake” of sand that sits in between the first and second reef slopes at this site. Starting from the beach, the seabed is dominated by sand and coral rubble before it gives way to soft corals and patch reef, roughly 250 feet (75 meters) from shore. From there, the slope of the reef steepens, descending from a depth of 30 feet (9 meters) down to the sand channel at around 70 feet (21 meters), located in the middle of the site. The northern end of the channel is wider and deeper than the south, bottoming out at 77 feet (23.5 meters), while the southern end narrows, bottoming out at a depth closer to 68 feet (20.5

42

BONAIRE

meters). Around the edge of the sand channel, numerous large coral mounds, or bommies, rise 10 to 15 feet (3 to 4.5 meters) above the reef and provide complex habitat for snapper, grunts, black margates and other reef fish.

The second reef starts on the far side of the sand channel, cresting at a depth of 65 feet (20

Kralendijk

The Lake

about 22 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 11 mins from Kralendijk

161

Shane Gross/Shutterstock ©

42

The Lake

BONAIRE

meters) before dropping down to a final depth of 100 feet (30.5 meters). Both reef slopes have very complex surfaces that provide plenty of hiding places for reef fish. Divers have the chance to see a wide range of species in the different habitats at this site. For example, sand tilefish, conch, stingrays and garden eels can be found in the sand, while slender filefish
and flamingo tongues can be found in the shallower areas dominated by soft corals.

Route

From the beach, swim out toward the mooring buoy in a southwestern direction. From there, descend the first reef slope pausing to explore the big coral mounds and pillars that rise above

DID YOU KNOW?

The “double reef” term is a misnomer in that these two reef slopes are not technically two separate reefs. If you were to dig down through the sand that separates the two slopes, you would encounter dead coral, because the channel between the two is a
shallow ledge in the buttress zone of this living reef where sand has collected over time. The different corals and sponges that inhabit the upper slope, or first reef, represent the normal differences you would see due to depth – it is just that the separation of a sand channel makes the transition between shallow and deep corals more noticeable.

162

42

The Lake

44

71

50

BONAIRE

the reef. Once you reach the sand channel, head south along the nearshore side. At its southern end, switch over to the second reef and start heading back north.

Check out the sand-to-reef transition as you go, while also leaving time to visit the complex coral
heads and sponges of the second reef slope. Turn back toward shore after you reach the northern terminus of the sand channel. Slowly ascend the first reef slope and take your three-minute safety stop as you cruise over the back reef zone with its abundance of soft corals.

25

163

65

49

42

42

The Lake

Other species commonly found at this site:

20

8

15

16

17

18

19

21

29

30

40

43

79

80

2

E

4

BONAIRE

164

A diver explores the Hilma Hooker

Hilma Hooker

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Belnem, Bonaire

GPS: 12°06’16.5”N, 68°17’15.0”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya International, which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the airport. After Bachelor’s Beach, the road bends slightly away from the coastline for about 0.75 miles (1.2 kilometers) before returning to the shore just before The Lake dive site. Hilma Hooker is located just under 0.2 miles (0.3 kilometers) beyond The Lake dive site, right next to the large Trans World Radio antennae. Pull off the road on the right-hand side next to the yellow rock that marks the site and descend the gravel slope to the parking lot next to the water. The large shrub in the middle of the parking lot is often used as a place to turn around. Most divers back their cars up to the shoulder that runs between the parking lot and the shore to unload their dive gear and enter the water.

Access

Gear up and descend the small, 30-foot (9-meter) slope to the water’s edge. The slope can be a little tricky to negotiate in some spots, and the last 15 feet (4.5 meters) to the water is deeply rutted with large boulders. Take your time in order to avoid falling down. Once in the water, surface swim out to the yellow mooring buoys that mark the bow and stern before descending.

Description

Hilma Hooker is one of Bonaire’s most popular dive sites and the island’s best-known wreck. Built in 1951 in the Netherlands, the freighter was originally named MV Midsland and began her service with a shipping company that operated out of Rotterdam. She changed her name and her ownership multiple times throughout the 1960s and 1970s before sinking off the coast of the Dominican Republic in July 1975. She was raised and resold that same year, before ultimately assuming the name Hilma Hooker under Columbian ownership.

43

BONAIRE

Accounts of the story that led to her sinking vary from person to person, but most people agree that Hilma Hooker experienced problems with her rudder as she was passing the coast of Bonaire. She had to be towed to Kralendijk’s harbor, at which point the authorities realized she was sailing without official papers. The authorities decided to search her after learning both the FBI and Interpol suspected she was being used to smuggle illegal drugs. During their search, they found 25,000 pounds (11,300 kg) of marijuana hidden behind her bulkheads. The authorities impounded the ship and tried to identify her owners, with little to no success.

Kralendijk

Hilma Hooker

about 23 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 12 mins from Kralendijk

165

A diver explores the Hilma Hooker

Annetje/Shutterstock ©

43

Hilma Hooker

BONAIRE

After several months, and amid growing concerns about the vessel’s ability to stay afloat, the port authorities towed Hilma Hooker away from Kralendijk’s main pier. After consulting with local divers and the Bonaire Tourism authority, the ship was moored in her current position, which was considered a relatively safe place for the ship to sink, with respect to the local ecosystem and navigation, should this occur before the owners could be identified.

Soon after she was moved (a mere five days by some accounts), her aging hull began to take on
water faster than her failing pumps could bail, and on September 12, 1984, Hilma Hooker sank beneath the waves for the last time, settling on her starboard side at the base of the first reef slope.

The wreck sits in the sand channel between the first and second reef slopes that is the hallmark of this stretch of the Bonaire coastline. At a depth of less than 100 feet (31 meters) and within swimming distance from shore, Hilma Hooker is ideally situated for boat and shore divers of all experience levels.

SAFETY TIP

Divers are advised not to attempt penetration of the Hilma Hooker. The position of the wreck on its side can lead divers to become disoriented during penetration attempts, which can be dangerous. Additionally, the maximum depth of 100 feet (30.5 meters)

leaves little margin for error, particularly if diving on air and using a single tank set-up. Finally, although the wreck was sunk deliberately, it was not prepped for penetration, and thus much of the wreck’s interior, particularly the engine room, contains unstable debris that can easily snag or entangle a diver.

166

43

Hilma Hooker

70

69

30

I

BONAIRE

Divers can enjoy the first reef slope as they approach and leave the wreck on their shore dive, but the star attraction of this site is definitely the wreck itself. Hilma Hooker is in good condition, protected as it is from strong currents by the two nearby reefs. It is fully encrusted with soft corals
and sponges, particularly around the exposed propeller. The superstructure and masts are intact as well as the main hold, but the wreck was not properly prepared for scuttling as an artificial reef so authorities advise against penetration.

F

167

32

43

Hilma Hooker

Other species commonly found at this site:

33

9

10

11

19

20

21

34

36

39

40

59

75

2

1

3

BONAIRE

168

43

Hilma Hooker

69

BONAIRE

Route

The wreck’s bow and stern are marked by southern and northern mooring buoys, respectively. As you approach Hilma Hooker’s keel, head south toward the bow and then circle around to the deck side of the wreck. Make your way from the bow back toward the stern, checking out the superstructure and masts as
they lie on their side against the sandy seafloor. Along the way, keep watch for the plentiful marine life that has colonized the wreck, including green moray eels, tarpon, snapper, angelfish and parrotfish. Patrolling barracuda also frequent the water column above the masts. Once you reach the bow, circle back around to the keel before ascending the reef slope toward shore.

169

32

43

Hilma Hooker

30

70

I

BONAIRE

Name:

Type:

Previous names:

Length:

Tonnage:

Construction:

Last owner:

Sunk:

Hilma Hooker

Freighter

MV Midsland, MVMistral,

MV William Express,

MV Anna C, MV Doric Express

235ft (72m)

1,027grt

Krimpen aan den IJssel,

Netherlands, 1951

San Andrés Shipping,

Columbia

September 12, 1984

F

170

Level Open Water

Location

Cargill Salt Works, Bonaire

GPS: 12°06’13.4”N, 68°17’13.3”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya International, which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the airport. After Bachelor’s Beach, the road bends slightly away from the coastline for about 0.75 miles (1.2 kilometers) before returning to the shore just before The Lake dive site. Angel City is located just after Hilma Hooker and adjacent to the large Trans World Radio antennae.

Pull off to the right-hand side of the main road, next to the yellow rock that marks the site, and descend the gravel slope to the parking lot next to the water. Most divers back their cars up to the shoulder that runs between the parking lot and the shore in order to unload dive gear and enter the water more easily. There are several large coral piles here, which help mark the site. Angel City is just over 2.5 miles from the airport (4.2 kilometers) – a drive of about 5 minutes.

Access

Gear up and follow the sand and gravel path that leads down to a small sandy beach by the waterline. You may need to step around several large rocks, but access at this site is relatively easy compared to other sites. Several stands of blade fire coral can make navigating the channel out to the reef slightly challenging, so make sure you have your facemask on as you enter the water. The reef is marked with a yellow mooring buoy.

Description

Angel City is another dive site that features Bonaire’s famous double reefs, and one where the reef starts relatively close to shore. The site gets its name from the profusion of friendly angelfish that frequent both the back reef and the reef slopes. Particularly common are French and Queen angelfish, but the particularly rare flameback angelfish has also

Divers can count on seeing angelfish at Angel City

Angel City

44

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

BONAIRE

been documented here.

The back reef slopes gently out toward the mooring buoy, which sits at a depth of 15 feet (4.5 meters). Stands of staghorn coral can be found south of the buoy along the transition between back reef and reef slope. This zone holds a mix of gorgonians and hard corals, which creates a complex seafloor that helps attract a variety of reef fishes – one of the reasons this site makes for good snorkeling.

Kralendijk

Angel City

about 25 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 13 mins from Kralendijk

171

Clay S. Turner/Shutterstock ©

44

Angel City

BONAIRE

To the south end of the site, the first slope bottoms out at a depth of just 60 feet (18 meters). To the north, the sand channel lies a little deeper, closer to 80 feet (24 meters). As with most double reef sites, the primary sand channel runs parallel to shore. However, the channel is much narrower at this site than elsewhere, which has allowed bridges of coral to connect the two reefs in several places. As a result, this site is a little harder to navigate than adjacent double reef sites since it is easier to get disoriented if you do not regularly check your compass.

The second reef slope is dominated by hard corals and sponges and offers plenty of rugosity (a measure of the complexity of the reef) that has attracted a diverse assemblage of reef species. Multiple large brain coral mounds offer points of interest worth exploring as you cruise along the reef crest at a depth of just 48 feet (14 meters), which is significantly shallower than other double reef sites. Morays, porcupinefish, yellowtail snapper and schooling horse-eye jacks are common on the second reef.

Route

Snorkelers have plenty to explore in the back reef, including the stands of staghorn corals along the reef transition area. There is excellent snorkeling in the area immediately to the north and the south of the buoy.

Divers should enter the water and swim out toward the mooring buoy. Descend the first reef slope until you reach the sand channel where conch and stingrays are common, and then turn right to head in a northerly direction. Remember that the sand channel is deeper to the north, which means you will need to monitor your depth. Less experienced divers should stick to the south end of the site so that they can experience the second reef without getting too deep. For those divers who can go deeper, cross over to the second reef at the northern end of the site once you pass a set of three coral bridges that span the sand channel, as well as a set of coral pillars on the reef slope above. Once on the second reef, turn to head in a southerly direction.

172

44

Angel City

24

80

74

20

81

BONAIRE

Continue in this direction, alternating between exploring the reef slope with its large coral mounds and the transition between sand and reef of the main channel. Once you reach the coral bridge at the southern end of the sand channel, cross back over to the first reef slope and make your way back up the reef slope toward the
buoy and the back reef. Take your safety stop as you explore the back reef area, keeping an eye open for giant anemones and their associated Pederson cleaner shrimp.

173

1

30

44

Angel City

Other species commonly found at this site:

64

32

45

46

50

54

57

65

66

68

78

79

82

E

3

2

16

BONAIRE

174

Alice in Wonderland

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Cargill Salt Works, Bonaire

GPS: 12°05’59.9”N, 68°17’06.7”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya International, which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the airport. After Bachelor’s Beach, the road bends slightly away from the coastline for about 0.75 miles (1.2 kilometers) before returning to the shore just before The Lake dive site. Alice In Wonderland is located about halfway between The Lake and Salt Pier, and just under 3 miles from the airport (4.7 kilometers) – a drive of about 6 minutes.

As you approach the end of the first salt pond, you will notice a small yellow hut on the left-hand side of the road, just before the large Cargill sign. Take the track on the opposite side of the road, where a yellow rock marks the site, and drive down into the gravel parking lot. Most divers back their cars up to the shoulder that runs between the parking lot and the shore to unload dive gear and enter the water more easily.

Access

There is a white sand and rubble beach that makes entering the water at this site relatively easy. The wave action is also low, but several large boulders and reef holes exist in the shallows, so watch your step as you make your way out. The site is marked with a yellow mooring buoy about 300 feet (91.5 meters) off the beach.

Description

Alice in Wonderland is another of Bonaire’s spectacular double reef dive sites. The back reef includes a mix of gorgonians and a few isolated hard corals at an average depth of around 15 feet (4.5 meters). From there the reef gradually slopes toward the drop off, which starts at a depth of 25 feet (7.5 meters). Soft corals and sea fans dominate the less dense covering of

45

BONAIRE

hard corals along this section of the reef all the way down to where the slope meets the sand channel at a depth of around 90 feet (27.5 meters). The white sand channel runs parallel to

Kralendijk

Alice in Wonderland

about 26 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 13 mins from Kralendijk

175

Lucky divers may see spotted eagle rays near the reefs in Bonaire

45

Alice in Wonderland

BONAIRE

shore and varies in width from nearly 165 feet (50 meters) at its southern end, to just 26 feet (8 meters) in the north where two coral patches extend from either side. Patches of hard corals are sprinkled throughout the sand channel creating interesting islands of reef fishes activity in the otherwise open space. Garden eels pepper the sand channel with a higher density at the southern end of the channel.

The second reef crests at a depth of 60 feet (18 meters) before descending to over 130 feet (40 meters). Plate-form corals dominate this section of reef, along with scattered sponges. Large brain corals are worth exploring on this section of the reef, along with a few giant anemones. Horse-eye jacks, triggerfish and barracuda can frequently be spotted patrolling the waters above the second reef slope, while green moray eels hide out below.

Priya Talwar/Shutterstock ©

Route

Snorkelers will have plenty to see in the back reef, particularly in the vicinity of the mooring buoy. Divers will want to swim out to the drop
off zone and descend the first reef slope to the second reef. You can choose a clockwise or counter-clockwise route to explore this site. Take care and consider using a compass

176

45

Alice in Wonderland

64

80

BONAIRE

if you choose to pass between the two reefs at the southern end of the site as the sand channel is widest here, and the second reef is not always visible from the first. Explore this second reef but be sure to return to the first reef with plenty of air and bottom time. Ascend
the first reef slope just south of the buoy where a particularly large coral head exists, before returning to shore.

E

I

177

71

45

Alice in Wonderland

Other species commonly found at this site:

19

10

11

14

15

16

18

30

40

43

46

50

56

44

66

F

1

G

8

BONAIRE

178

46

BONAIRE

Aquarius

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Cargill Salt Works, Bonaire

GPS: 12°05’54.0”N, 68°17’04.1”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya International, which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the
airport. After Bachelor’s Beach, the road bends slightly away from the coastline for about 0.75 miles (1.2 kilometers) before returning to the shore just before The Lake dive site. All the sites between The Lake and Salt Pier are marked with yellow rocks. Pass the Hilma Hooker, Angel City and Alice in Wonderland sites before pulling off to the right-hand side of the road and into the parking lot marked with yellow stones. There are two entrances to this parking lot and it has plenty

Kralendijk

Aquarius

about 28 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 12 mins from Kralendijk

179

of room for vehicles. Most divers back their cars up to the shoulder that runs between the parking lot and the shore in order to unload dive gear and enter the water more easily. Aquarius is located about 3.2 miles (5.1 kilometers) from the airport – a drive of about 6 minutes by car.

Access

Gear up and descend the small slope to the water’s edge. There are rock piles on the beach that indicate the best entry point. The beach consists mainly of sand with a few scattered rocks. Aquarius is arguably one of the easiest sites to access beyond Bachelor’s Beach. Once in the water, surface kick out toward the yellow mooring buoy located about 500 feet (150 meters) to the northwest.

Description

Aquarius is a double reef dive site. The first
reef starts 500 feet (150 meters) from shore, so prepare for a long surface swim out to start your dive. Be careful as you get to the bottom of the first reef slope because the second reef can be hard to spot from the base of the first reef. The sand channel is wide enough to make navigating to the second reef potentially challenging for less experienced divers, and it generally requires a compass and navigation skills to reach. Look for stingrays and garden eels in the sand channel.

Monitor your bottom time carefully on this dive as the second reef is deep – cresting at a depth of around 90 feet (27.5 meters). The second reef is worth a visit, however, as it is known to have an abundance of snapper, parrotfish and bar jacks, as well as the occasional sea turtle, eagle ray and barracuda. The reef is also known for its anemones.

46

AQUARIUS

BONAIRE

180

47

BONAIRE

Larry’s Lair

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Cargill Salt Works, Bonaire

GPS: 12°05’25.7”N, 68°16’59.2”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya International, which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the
airport. After Bachelor’s Beach, the road bends slightly away from the coastline for about 0.75 miles (1.2 kilometers) before returning to the shore just before The Lake dive site. All the sites between The Lake and Salt Pier are marked with yellow rocks. Once past Hilma Hooker, Angel City, Alice in Wonderland and Aquarius, you will see the yellow rock on the righ-hand side of the road that marks Larry’s Lair. Pull off and into the small

Kralendijk

Larry’s Lair

Access about 13 mins from Kralendijk

181

parking lot. Most divers back their cars up to the shore in order to unload dive gear and enter the water more easily. Larry’s Lair is located about 0.5 miles (0.76 kilometers) north of Salt Pier and about 3.6 miles (5.8 kilometers) from the airport – a drive of about 7 minutes by car.

Access

Access from the parking lot to the shoreline is a little more challenging at Larry’s Lair than at nearby sites. The walk is only about 50 feet (15 meters), but there are numerous sharp rocks and a deeply rutted reef ledge at the waterline, so take your time and use your buddy for support if necessary. Corals, including some fire coral, come close to the surface near the shore. Identify a safe path through the reef that avoids these shallow corals and then enter the water and kick out. There is no yellow mooring buoy at this site, so it is only accessible from the shore.

Description

At Larry’s Lair, the reef starts more than 500 feet (150 meters) from shore, making this one of the longer swims to reach the reef. This shallow, sand-bottomed plateau, with its plentiful gorgonians and staghorn coral, is one of the key features of this site, however, and makes for a great snorkel or an enjoyable safety stop at the end of your dive.

Visitors to this site regularly spot stingrays, turtles and even schools of squid in the back reef, as well as puffers and trumpetfish among the soft corals. The first reef slope descends to a wide sand channel at a depth of around 100 feet (30.5 meters) that runs parallel to shore. Garden eels and sand tilefish are common here. The second reef lies on the seaward side of the channel, cresting at a depth of about 90 feet (27.5 meters). The second reef is not visible from the base of the first slope, and thus requires a compass and navigation skills to reach.

47

Larry’s Lair

BONAIRE

182

48

BONAIRE

Jeannie’s Glory

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Kralendijk

Jeannie’s Glory

about 32 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 14 mins from Kralendijk

Level Open Water

Location

Cargill Salt Works, Bonaire

GPS: 12°05’11.1”N, 68°16’56.5”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya International, which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the airport. After Bachelor’s Beach, the road bends slightly away from the coastline for about 0.75
miles (1.2 kilometers) before returning to the shore just before The Lake dive site. All the sites between The Lake and Salt Pier are marked with yellow rocks. Once past Alice in Wonderland, Aquarius and Larry’s Liar, you will see the yellow rock marking Jeannie’s Glory on the side of the road. Pull off on the right-hand side and park on the shoulder. Jeannie’s Glory is located about 0.13 miles (0.2 kilometers) north of Salt Pier and 4 miles (6.4 kilometers) from the airport – a drive of about 8 minutes by car.

183

Access

Pick a path through the vegetation, over the sandy area and through the large boulders and rubble to the shoreline. The last step is to pass over the rutted reef ledge and enter the water. This can be challenging, so it might be worth considering another site during times of high wave action. The yellow mooring buoy is located adjacent to the reef and to the northwest, slightly north of the big red ship mooring.

Description

Jeannie’s Glory is a popular double reef dive along the southern coast. The reef at Jeannie’s

Glory starts nearly 400 feet (120 meters) from shore. The shallow, sand-bottomed plateau offers snorkelers and divers a forest of soft corals to explore, including the opportunity to spot a few rays sheltering in the sand. The sand channel between the two reefs bottoms out at just over 100 feet (30.5 meters), which makes it the deepest sand channel on this stretch of the coast. The reefs on either side of the sand channel are known for supporting a variety of marine life, including snapper, parrotfish, surgeonfish and eels. Divers regularly spot barracuda in the water column above the second reef.

48

Jeannie’s Glory

BONAIRE

DID YOU KNOW?

Near the Jeannie’s Glory dive site, between the road and the shore, sits an unmarked grave. The grave holds the skeletal remains of
an individual uncovered during excavation in the salt works. The remains are likely to be either a slave who worked in the salt ponds, or perhaps an early settler from the Spanish colonization of the island.

184

Salt Pier

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open water

Location

Cargill Salt Works, Bonaire

GPS: 12°05’00.9”N, 68°16’54.2”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya International, which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the airport. After Bachelor’s Beach, the road bends slightly away from the coastline for about 0.75 miles (1.2 kilometers) before returning to the shore just before The Lake dive site. Continue all the way down the coast road to the Salt Pier and pull into the parking lot immediately to the north of the pier. Salt Pier is 4.1 miles (6.6 kilometers) from the airport – a drive of about 8 minutes by car.

Access

Salt Pier is a working jetty where ships load and transport salt from the Cargill Salt Works. If there is a ship scheduled to arrive at the pier or if a ship is currently at the pier, diving is not permitted at this site. A representative of the Cargill Salt Works will inform you that the site is temporarily closed but when in doubt, ask at the yellow guard shack located on the premises. Gear up in the parking lot and enter the water next to the car park. There is a small step down at the waterline. The seabed can be a little uneven in places, but the access is relatively easy. You can swim out to the structure
on the surface or underwater. Use a compass or simply stay relatively close to the central structure as you head west, to ensure you hit the seaward platforms that run parallel to shore. It usually takes about five minutes to reach these platforms from shore.

Description

Salt Pier is an iconic Bonaire shore dive. Although the reef is less spectacular than at other sites, marine life has colonized the pillars that support the pier as well as the surrounding waters, and the pillars provide great photo opportunities in the morning and afternoon light. Salt Pier is a must-do dive while in Bonaire. The white sand bottom heading out to the reef is covered in a mix of hard corals and gorgonians and teems with juvenile reef fishes. The reef slope starts at a depth of 32 feet (10 meters) and is covered in low-density hard corals, sponges and gorgonians. The slope sits just beyond the pier, descending to a depth of 100 feet (30.5 meters). This site is known for its cryptic species, including seahorses, frogfish, octopuses and moray eels.

While the reef may not be the best of what Bonaire has to offer, the structure of the pier easily makes up for it – the pillars are encrusted with soft corals and sponges, as well as the nests of territorial damselfish. Barracuda and sea turtles are common at this site, as well as

49

BONAIRE

DID YOU KNOW?

Bonaire was first recognized for its potential for salt production as far back as the 1600s. It became a major center for salt production in the early 1800s, when under Dutch control. As production of this essential resource increased, the Dutch placed colored pylons along the southern coast of the island next to specific salt production areas to better manage production and distribution – red, blue, orange and white to match the colors of the Dutch flag and the royal house. These pylons (which are still present today, including the blue one at the Salt Pier site) along with a system of colored flags were used to signal boat captains where to put ashore to pick up their loads of salt. Salt production tapered off with the abolition of slavery in the late 1800s but has since picked up under the management of Cargill, an international salt company that leases the land from the Bonaire government.

Kralendijk

Salt Pier

about 33 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 45 mins from Kralendijk

185

The pillars at Salt Pier make for an excellent backdrop for underwater photography

NickPolanszky Photo/Shutterstock ©

49

Salt Pier

BONAIRE

SAFETY TIP

When exploring any overhead or enclosed environment, it is important for divers to control their buoyancy and remain constantly aware of their surroundings. Wave surge can push divers into the
structure and currents can change strength and direction within the pillars. Salt Pier is fairly forgiving, however, and open water is always visible beyond the pillars, which makes this a great site for divers of all experience levels to explore, as well as a very unique underwater environment.

186

49

Salt Pier

37

41

77

A

73

BONAIRE

schools of grunts and snapper, including larger species such as cubera snapper, which can be found weaving through the upper sections of the pillars.

Salt Pier is very popular with divers, so you might want to plan on getting there outside
of the morning and mid-afternoon rushes. Fortunately, the site is big enough that you can dive it even during the busy times and still feel like you have the place to yourself.

187

49

Salt Pier

B

75

31

BONAIRE

Route

Exploring all of Salt Pier in a single tank dive might be a challenge. Most divers begin by heading out along the pier before turning south or north to weave through the pillars on each of the platforms that run parallel to shore. There are seven platforms in total – one central
platform and three separate platforms north and south of the central section.

Look out for tarpon resting at the bottom of the reef slope seaward of the pier and keep an eye out for bar jacks testing their luck on the schools of baitfish that hide among the pillars. Once you

188

49

Salt Pier

77

A

37

BONAIRE

reach the final set of pillars, head back toward shore. Be sure to take time to cruise through the back reef area, where parrotfish are common and redlip blennies cling to the central pillars in the shallower water.

189

31

73

49

Salt Pier

Other species commonly found at this site:

56

28

29

45

47

51

53

57

60

62

64

66

70

B

41

26

F

27

BONAIRE

75

190

Level Open Water

Location

Cargill Salt Works, Bonaire

GPS: 12°04’46.9”N, 68°16’50.4”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya International, which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the airport. After Bachelor’s Beach, the road bends slightly away from the coastline for about 0.75 miles (1.2 kilometers) before returning to the shore just before The Lake dive site. Continue down the coast past Salt Pier and pull over into the sandy parking lot where yellow rocks mark the site on the side of the road. Salt City is just over 0.3 miles (0.45 kilometers) south of Salt Pier and 4.3 miles (6.9 kilometers) from the airport – a drive of about 9 minutes by car.

Access

Large boulders line the shore at Salt City, and the reef ledge at the waterline has numerous sharp rocks, so take care as you enter the water, especially when there is wave action. The step down into the water at the shoreline is also quite steep – about 3 feet (1 meter) – so ensure you have air in your BCD and your facemask is on. Also, beware of fire coral in the shallows close to shore as you swim out. The yellow mooring buoy is almost directly off shore from the parking lot, and south of the big red ship mooring.

Description

Salt City is one of Bonaire’s double reef dive sites, but the distance between the two reefs is much smaller here than to the north of Salt Pier. The site begins in the back reef as patches of hard and soft coral on a largely sandy seabed. The shallow plateau has a depth of 20 feet (6 meters), and supports some stands of staghorn coral. Observant divers may also spot razerfish darting into the sand as well.

As the reef gradually gets deeper, the soft corals increase in abundance until the first reef starts

A stingray cruises through the sandy back reef

Richard Whitcombe/Shutterstock ©

Salt City

50

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

BONAIRE

Kralendijk

Salt City

about 35 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 15 mins from Kralendijk

191

50

Salt City

BONAIRE

to slope into deeper water at a depth of 38 feet (11.5 meters). The southern end of this site has a more gradual initial slope than the northern end. The first reef slope ends at a depth of 75 feet (23 meters), disappearing into the flat sand channel that runs parallel to shore. The channel ranges in width from 72 to 92 feet (22 to 28 meters), becoming narrower the farther north you go.

The second reef crests at a depth of around 65 feet (20 meters) before descending to a depth
of over 120 feet (36.5 meters). The slope of this second reef is gentler than that of the first, and consists of plate corals and sponges, including large elephant ear sponges. Divers can often find peacock flounders, garden eels, yellow goatfish, stingrays and schools of palometas in the sand channel between the two reefs. On the reef slopes, divers may see porcupinefish, snapper, parrotfish and even the occasional sea turtle cruising by along the reef.

about 35 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 15 mins from Kralendijk

192

50

Salt City

54

43

B

68

BONAIRE

Route

Swim out to the buoy and descend the first reef slope, passing across the sand to explore the second reef, which has better coral cover. The second reef becomes deeper to the north, so cross back to the first reef as you head toward the Salt Pier. Gradually ascend along the first
reef slope, and you might see (and will probably hear) the chains of the large red mooring buoy that marks the northern edge of this site. The buoy is located in a large area of sand and rubble at a depth of 40 feet (12 meters). It is anchored via massive chains attached to concrete blocks.

193

50

Salt City

Other species commonly found at this site:

30

19

20

21

26

27

28

33

35

40

80

82

84

44

13

32

E

14

K

15

BONAIRE

194

Invisibles

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Cargill Salt Works, Bonaire

GPS: 12°04’39.1”N, 68°16’47.9”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya International, which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the airport. After Bachelor’s Beach, the road bends
slightly away from the coastline for about 0.75 miles (1.2 kilometers) before returning to the shore just before The Lake dive site. Continue down the coast past the Salt Pier site and pull over into the gravel parking lot when you see the yellow rocks marking the site for Invisibles. The site is nearly 0.4 miles (0.6 kilometes) south of Salt Pier and 4.5 miles (7.2 kilometers) from the airport – a drive of about 8 minutes by car.

51

BONAIRE

Kralendijk

Invisibles

Access about 15 mins from Kralendijk

about 37 mins from Kralendijk

195

Pete Niesen/Shutterstock ©

DID YOU KNOW?

Reef Smart produces handheld water-proof guides for a number of sites in Bonaire, including Invisibles, which is one of the more complex sites on the island. These guides can be taken into the water and used to help navigate through the various coral islands that form the deeper second reef.

Access

Access at the Invisibles dive and snorkel site is relatively easy. Gear up in the parking lot and head down to the shoreline, avoiding the larger, unstable boulders located around the waterline. The rutted reef ledge has several holes that can result in a twisted ankle and cause a fall, so take care as you enter the water. The yellow mooring buoy is slightly to the north of the parking lot.

Description

Invisibles is one of Bonaire’s southernmost double reef dive sites. The reef slope starts nearly 450 feet (137 meters) out from shore, offering divers and snorkelers plenty to explore in the wide, relatively shallow back reef zone. While this area does not have high densities of gorgonians and hard coral heads, many cryptic species still call this sand and coral rubble habitat home, including razerfish and yellowhead jawfish.

51

Invisibles

BONAIRE

The slope of the first reef begins at a depth of 20 feet (6 meters) where the mooring buoy is anchored. Hard corals dominate the first slope, along with the occasional sponge and sea fan. At a depth of 85 feet (26 meters), the reef slope gives way to the sand channel that runs parallel to shore, separating the first and second reef slopes. The sand channel harbors garden eels and the occasional eagle ray.

The second reef at Invisibles is not a contiguous reef as it is to the north; it fragments into multiple coral islands. These islands are covered in hard corals and reef sponges at a higher density than divers will see on first reef. Navigation skills, a compass and one of our waterproof maps will come in handy at this site. These coral islands crest at an average depth of 65 feet (19 meters) making them more accessible than the double reefs farther to the north. The seaward side of the second reef drops off to over 120 feet (36.5 meters).

Route

Snorkelers can spend time exploring the rubble and soft corals of the back reef as well as the start of the reef slope that begins near the mooring buoy. Divers will want to make their way directly out to the second reef via the sand channel located immediately beyond the mooring buoy. Follow the narrow channel out to the second reef and head south as you explore the coral islands that form the deeper section of the reef. Take time to explore both the reef crest as well as the transition between reef and sand, given that these different habitats typically attract distinct organisms.

Cryptic species such as frogfish and scorpionfish can be found on the reef, as well as butterflyfish, parrotfish, grunts and snapper. Stingrays, eagle rays, conch and sand tilefish can be found in the sand, and jacks and black durgons are common in the water column above the second reef.

A sand tilefish cruises over an open patch of sand

196

51

Invisibles

41

12

42

E

BONAIRE

Continue south as you explore the second reef until the sand opens into a wide secondary channel that stretches nearly 165 feet (50 meters) across to the next coral island. At this point, turn east to head back across the main sand channel to return to the first reef slope. From there ascend
to around 45 feet (13 meters) and head back north toward the mooring buoy. Keep an eye open for wrasses, small moray eels and blennies along this path, as well as any sea turtles that may be cruising along the reef.

13

197

51

Invisibles

Other species commonly found at this site:

38

3

7

10

14

20

35

50

53

54

64

65

76

71

A

22

G

B

I

BONAIRE

198

52

BONAIRE

Tori’s Reef

Kralendijk

Tori’s Reef

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Cargill Salt Works, Bonaire

GPS: 12°04’13.9”N, 68°16’49.2”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya

International, which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the airport. After Bachelor’s Beach, the road bends slightly away from the coastline for about 0.75 miles (1.2 kilometers) before returning to the shore just before The Lake dive site. About 0.8 miles (1.3 kilometers) past the Salt Pier you will drive over the first of two small red and white bridges that span

about 38 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 16 mins from Kralendijk

199

52

Tori’s Reef

BONAIRE

drainage channels from the salt ponds. Yellow rocks are located on either side of the second, southernmost bridge. Tori’s Reef can be best accessed by parking on either side of the second bridge, where there is ample parking between the road and the shoreline. The site is 5 miles (8.1 kilometers) from the airport – a drive of about 9 minutes.

Access

Gear up and walk from either parking lot to the outflow channel. The reef ledge at the waterline is deeply rutted and strewn with sharp boulders, so it is much easier to enter via the channel where there are several large, flat rocks to use as stepping stones. It is a relatively easy swim out to the buoy located to the north, between the two bridges.

Description

Tori’s Reef is known as an attractive dive site that offers multiple reefs, although not in the same double-reef structure found at sites to the north. The site alternates between sand channels and reef lines, offering complex habitat that can be difficult to navigate.

The complexity of the habitat helps support a wide variety of species, including eagle rays and stingrays, parrotfish, snapper and barracuda. Stands of staghorn coral grow in the shallower waters of the plateau and this area of the reef is known to support a great abundance of juvenile reef fish, particularly angelfish, grunts, puffers and drums.

200

53

BONAIRE

Pink Beach (Kabayé)

Kralendijk

Pink Beach (Kabayé)

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

about 41 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 16 mins from Kralendijk

Level Open Water

Location

Cargill Salt Works, Bonaire

GPS: 12°03’51.0”N, 68°16’53.8”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya Interna-tional, which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the airport. After Bachelor’s Beach, the road bends slightly away from the coastline for about 0.75 miles (1.2 kilometers) before returning to the shore just before The Lake dive
site. Continue down the coast past Salt Pier and over the two red and white bridges that mark the drainage channels at the end of the Cargill Salt Works. The distance between the road and the ocean widens slightly near Pink Beach and you will notice a number of palm trees along the shore. Pull over by the gate, adjacent to the yellow rocks that mark this site and the giant boulder that has a plaque attached to it. There is enough room for several cars to park along the road beside the gate. Pink beach is 5.3 miles (8.5 kilometers) from the airport – a drive of about 9 minutes.

201

53

Pink Beach (Kabayé)

BONAIRE

Access

Gear up and walk around the gate, over the embankment and down onto the sand and gravel beach. The best place to enter the water is slightly north of the gate and in front of the two palm trees. There is a small sand channel in the water that makes access much easier. These palms are a good reference point for returning to shore. It is a relatively easy swim out to the buoy, which is located slightly to the south.

Description

Pink Beach gets its name from the pink hue of the sand on the nearby beach; the color is a result of the small, shelled organisms called foraminifera. Pink Beach does not have the same double reef system as the dive sites to the north, but it does offer a wide variety of reef fish, including many cleaning stations. Snorkelers and divers may spot rays in the sandy plateau, along with goatfish, small eels and angelfish.

SCIENTIFIC INSIGHT

Foraminifera are small organisms that build a shell, or test, which is the scientific name for an internal shell. They are the most abundant shelled organism in many marine habitats and they are found everywhere that saltwater exists, from the intertidal down to the deepest depths of the ocean. They are important components of the food chain and
are proving to be an early warning system for the impact of ocean acidification. The increasing acidity in marine environments is negatively affecting the ability of many foraminifera to build their carbonate shells, a process that also impacts corals. The loss of this important component of the base of the marine ecological web could have far-reaching impacts on the health of the ocean ecosystem.

202

54

BONAIRE

White Slave

Kralendijk

White Slave

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

about 44 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 17 mins from Kralendijk

Level Open Water

Location

Cargill Salt Works, Bonaire

GPS: 12°03’27.9”N, 68°16’50.7”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya International, which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the airport. After Bachelor’s Beach, the road bends slightly away from the coastline for about 0.75 miles (1.2 kilometers), before returning to the shore just before The Lake dive site. Continue down the coast past Salt Pier and over the two
red and white bridges that mark the drainage channels at the end of the Cargill Salt Wonks. After Pink Beach, and just before the road starts to bend to the southeast, you will pass several buildings on the right-hand side of the road, followed by a number of white huts. Pull off the road into the parking area adjacent to the huts. White Slave is 5.8 miles (9.4 kilometers) from the airport – a drive of about 11 minutes.

Access

Gear up and walk to the water, which is only steps away from the parking lot over a small rubble beach. The best place to enter the water is in the

203

54

White Slave

BONAIRE

middle of the huts. The reef is shallow in places and has pockets of elkhorn and fire coral that divers need to avoid on their swim out from the beach.

Description

White Slave gets its name from the historic slave huts that sit between the coastal road and the beach, serving as a reminder of Bonaire’s past. The reef at this site starts more than 650 feet (200 meters) from shore, requiring a long swim out before starting your dive. The shallow sand-bottomed plateau that sits between the shore and the reef gradually increases in the density of soft corals the farther out toward the reef you get. Divers are known to see turtles and rays on this plateau, as well as schools of surgeonfish and parrotfish. Soft corals are particularly dense at the top of the reef, but also extend down the seaward slope. Soft corals love the moderate to strong currents that exist here, which comes from the reef’s position on a slight headland. The reef slope itself consists of a low density of hard and soft corals and sponges, which extends to a depth of more than 120 feet (36.5 meters).

ECO TIP

Bonaire is known for its pink flamingos – they are the island’s signature bird. Flamingos enjoy protected status on Bonaire, as the island is one of the few flamingo breeding grounds in the southern Caribbean, not to mention one of just 30 regular breeding grounds in the world. You will typically see the island’s flamingos standing in the shallow, salty waters of the saliñas that dot Bonaire’s coastal areas.
They feed on brine shrimp, deriving their pink color from the carotenoids they ingest via the shrimp, who in turn live off the halophilic (salt-loving) bacteria that thrive in the salty waters of the salt ponds and saliñas. Flamingos startle easily, which can endanger their chicks. So please keep your distance and respect the “No Entry” signs around the island, including along the southern stretch of the coastal road below the Salt Pier.

204

54A

BONAIRE

Wanda

Kralendijk

Wanda

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Access about 18 mins from Kralendijk

Level Open Water

Location

Cargill Salt Works, Bonaire

GPS: 12°03’12.2”N, 68°16’25.2”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya International, which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the airport. After Bachelor’s Beach, the road bends slightly away from the coastline for about 0.75 miles (1.2 kilometers) before returning to the shore just before The Lake dive site. Continue down the coast past Salt Pier and Pink Beach. Just after White Slave, the road takes a bend to the left and heads southeast. Continue down this road for another 0.4 miles (0.6 kilometers). You will see a signpost indicating that the road will narrow, followed by a post without a sign. On your right, about 50 feet (15 meters) after this post, you will see a small layby next to a saliña. Pull over into the layby between the bushes. There is no yellow rock marking this site. Wanda is 6.4 miles (10.3 kilometers) from the airport – a drive of about 12 minutes.

Access

Gear up and walk between the bushes into the shallow saliña and cross to the other side – a distance of about 55 feet (17 meters). The water depth increases slightly in the middle of

205

the saliña, but should not be much more than knee high. The access at the waterline is not too challenging, although there is a slight step down into the water, and slightly higher surf here than at other sites, which can unbalance a diver. Use your dive buddy for support. A few stands of fire coral exist close to shore, but there is plenty of room for divers to pass through to the back reef. There is no yellow mooring buoy at this site, so it is only accessible from shore.

Description

Wanda is one of a half-dozen unmarked dive
sites along the southern coast of Bonaire. It is not on the official Marine Park list of sites, but many divers regularly visit these unmarked spots. The reef here is similar to adjacent sites of White Slave to the north and Margate Bay to the south, with slightly stronger currents and a higher abundance of soft corals. The reef starts 330 feet (100 meters) from the shoreline and is known to offer a medium density hard coral cover with plenty of sponges and soft corals. It also has a wide variety of fish life, including moray eels, black durgons, black margates and rays.

54A

WANDA

BONAIRE

ECO TIP

The shore-diving-friendly nature of Bonaire means that divers can essentially strap on a tank and step into the water pretty much anywhere along the coast and have a good chance of exploring fantastic coral reefs. However, by limiting diving to established locations, visitors can help minimize the potentially negative impacts on the non-
targeted reefs. We have featured a few unmarked sites in this guidebook as they are well-established and well-visited, even though they are not included in the official list of dive sites maintained by the Bonaire National Marine Park. But we strongly encourage divers to stick to established sites. Not only will this improve your own safety, but it will help protect the coral reefs of Bonaire for future generations.

206

Black margates swim over the reef

Margate Bay

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Cargill Salt Works, Bonaire

GPS: 12°03’06.6”N, 68°16’18.2”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya International, which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the airport. After Bachelor’s Beach, the road bends slightly away from the coastline for about 0.75 miles (1.2 kilometers) before returning to the shore just before The Lake dive site. Continue down the coast past Salt Pier and Pink Beach. Just after White Slave, the road takes a bend to the left and heads southeast. Continue down this road for just over half a mile. After the point where the road narrows, pull over into the obvious layby parking lot on the right-hand side between the two yellow rocks that mark the site. There should be enough space for several cars to park here next to the large boulders. Margate Bay is about 6.6 miles (10.6 kilometers) from the airport – a drive of about 12 minutes.

Access

Gear up and walk toward the saliña between the gap in the mangroves. The saliña is only 50 feet (15 meters) across. On the far side of the saliña is a rubble-strewn reef ledge, which provides relatively easy access to the water, albeit with a small step down.

Description

Margate Bay gets its name from the profusion of black margates that you will see at this site. The back reef stretches just over 300 feet (91.5 meters) from the shore, sloping gently over a mostly sand and rubble bottom. Fire corals located near the shore give way to stands of staghorn coral, followed by a forest of gorgonians, including sea fans and the occasional coral head and sponge.

At a depth of around 26 feet (8 meters) you will start to transition to the reef and the slope begins to steepen. From here the reef descends at a roughly 45 degree slope before bottoming

55

BONAIRE

out at maximum depth of 100 feet (30 meters) and a sandy seafloor below. Although the reef starts at a depth that may be hard for snorkelers to observe smaller creatures, the clarity of the Bonaire water means they will be able to take in plenty of the corals and gorgonians in the first section of this site, along with larger reef fish, such as parrotfish, angelfish, snapper and margates. Those snorkelers able to dive down 20 feet will have no problem seeing plenty of marine life along the upper reef slope area.

Kralendijk

Margate Bay

about 48 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 18 mins from Kralendijk

207

John A. Anderson/Shutterstock ©

55

Margate Bay

BONAIRE

The reef at this site does not have quite as many channels as you will find at other sites. There is a single sand channel roughly 16 feet (5 meters) wide to the northwest side of the site. Further along to the southeast, a second channel extends up from below, and splits to form a “Y” at a depth of around 64 feet (19.5 meters). These channels can help orient you as you dive.

Much like other sites along this stretch of coast, Margate Bay offers plenty to see in terms of corals, sponges and reef fish, thanks in large part
to the complex bottom and the mixing currents. Sea fans and soft corals thrive shoreward of the drop off zone, while hard corals cover the reef wall, interspersed with sponges and sea whips. Trumpetfish and slender filefish are abundant in the soft corals, along with snapper and mixed schools of grunts. The rich waters also support schools of chromis, while patrolling barracuda keep watch in the waters above the reef and small grouper wait below. Eagle rays are also known to frequent this site.

Route

Enter the water and swim out toward the mooring buoy to your left. Watch out for the fire corals that grow close to shore in the shallow water. Swim past the fire coral and through the forest of gorgonians, sponges and coral heads. Look for juvenile reef fish among the waving soft corals as this type of habitat acts as a nursery for many species of reef fishes.

You will encounter the reef line at around 330 feet (100 meters) from shore. Descend along the reef
taking time to observe both the corals beneath you as well as the open ocean beyond the reef. You will likely see black durgons schooling over the reef, along with blue and brown chromis. When you have descended to your target depth, turn left and make your way toward the southeast. Look under ledges for moray eels and lobsters as you pass over the sand channels in the reef.

Once you pass over the Y-shaped sand channel, make your way back up the reef slope toward the shore. Spend what time remains of your

208

55

Margate Bay

51

24

B

BONAIRE

dive exploring the forest of soft corals, being sure to make a note of the field of staghorn coral that you will pass through. Be careful of the fire corals as you approach the shore and watch your footing when you exit the water.

54

209

A

25

55

Margate Bay

Other species commonly found at this site:

26

2

5

7

9

10

18

29

32

49

58

71

79

K

F

1

BONAIRE

50

52

210

56

BONAIRE

Red Beryl

Kralendijk

Red Beryl

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Cargill Salt Works, Bonaire

GPS: 12°02’49.8”N, 68°16’05.2”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya International,
which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the airport. After Bachelor’s Beach, the road bends slightly away from the coastline for about 0.75 miles (1.2 kilometers), before returning to the shore just before The Lake dive site. Continue down the coast past Salt Pier and Pink Beach. The road bends to the left and heads southeast just after the White Slave site. Continue down the

Access about 19 mins from Kralendijk

211

56

Red Beryl

BONAIRE

road, past where it narrows and past Margate Bay. You will soon pass another small layby, followed by a second layby with two yellow rocks that mark the Red Beryl site. A sign is also present at the end of the layby that indicates there is a turtle nesting beach here. There is enough room for several cars to park here. Red Beryl is about 6.6 miles (10.7 kilometers) from the airport – a drive of about 13 minutes.

Access

A small 15-foot (5-meter) path leads from the road toward the shore, passing between several large rocks. A deeply rutted reef ledge provides access to the water. There is no yellow mooring buoy at this site, so it is only accessible from shore. Red Beryl and several other sites along this stretch of coast are popular with kiteboarders, so try to stay close to the bottom as you head out to the reef and
return to shore. This site is best accessed before 10:00am and after 4:00pm when kiteboarders are less active in the area, particularly if you plan on snorkeling at Red Beryl.

Description

The reef at Red Beryl begins relatively close to shore, at just 200 feet (60 meters) from the beach. This site is known for a seabed that alternates between reef, sand and soft corals until the reef slope begins 330 feet (100 meters) from shore. Some of the best exploring can be done between the depths of 33 and 50 feet (10 and 15 meters), where divers will see a mix of hard and soft corals, along with a variety of marine life, including parrotfish and snapper, but also anemones, shrimp, crabs and octopuses. The reef slope descends to a depth of 105 feet (32 meters), and another, much deeper reef begins at 160 feet (49 meters).

212

57

BONAIRE

Atlantis

Kralendijk

Atlantis

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Access about 20 mins from Kralendijk

Level Open Water

Location

Cargill Salt Works, Bonaire

GPS: 12°02’43.8”N, 68°16’01.1”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya International, which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the airport. After Bachelor’s Beach, the road bends slightly away from the coastline for about 0.75 miles (1.2 kilometers) before returning to the shore next to The Lake dive site. Continue down the coast past Salt Pier and Pink Beach. The road bends to the southeast just past the White Slave site; the Atlantis dive site is located about 1.25 miles (2 kilometers) past this bend, slightly after the Red Beryl dive site and about 300 feet (91.5 meters) before the kiteboarding camp. The site is marked with a yellow rock on the right-hand side of the road and there is plenty of parking for vehicles. Atlantis is about 7.3 miles (11.7 kilometers) from the airport – a drive of about 13 minutes.

Access

Atlantis is among the easiest sites to access in Bonaire. Make your way through the large boulders that line the parking area. Walk up and over the slight bank that separates the parking area from the shoreline – a distance of about 100 feet (30 meters). There is a beautiful sandy beach in this location

213

57

Atlantis

BONAIRE

SAFETY TIP

Surface marker buoys (SMBs) are not necessary on most dive sites on Bonaire since boat activity is low and divers rarely surface in the dark water where vessels are allowed to navigate. However, some of the most southerly dive sites in Bonaire pose a slightly different kind of risk, which might warrant the use of an SMB. Kiteboarding is extremely popular in this area of Bonaire, particularly at Atlantis Beach, also known as Kite Beach. And the activities often extend to Red Beryl to the north and Fish Hut to the south. If you do not have an SMB with you, try to avoid surface swimming a much as possible. Get as close to shore as you can before surfacing, and then surface safely by lifting your arm out of the water first above your head to limit the chance of a collision with a fast-moving kiteboarder.

that provides easy access to the water for divers. There is no mooring buoy at this site, however, which means it is only accessible from shore. This site is best accessed before 10:00am and after 4:00pm when kiteboarders are less active in the area.

Description

Atlantis Beach is known for sightings of sea turtles and larger pelagic fish such as jacks and mackerel. It is typical of the southern dive sites with a relatively shallow sand-bottomed plateau that gives way to a forest of soft corals, before transitioning to a hard coral and sponge reef. There is plenty for snorkelers to enjoy in the shallows at this site, including schools of surgeonfish and tangs and the occasional eagle ray and stingray among patches of staghorn coral. Just make sure that snorkelers are out of the water before the kiteboarding begins at 10:00am or that they have a clearly visible surface marker buoy (SMB). The reef slope at Atlantis begins over 330 feet (100 meters) from the beach and offers divers an interesting mix of hard and soft corals, as well as large sponges, as it descends to a depth of over 100 feet (30 meters). This site is known for having a high abundance of rock beauties, as well as many filefish and triggerfish species, including black durgons, ocean triggerfish and sargassum triggerfish in deeper waters.

214

57A

BONAIRE

Fish Hut

Kralendijk

Fish Hut

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Cargill Salt Works, Bonaire

GPS: 12°2’34.5”N, 68°15’57.4”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya International, which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the airport. After Bachelor’s Beach, the road bends slightly away from the
coastline for about 0.75 miles (1.2 kilometers) before returning to the shore just before The Lake dive site. Continue down the coast past Salt Pier and White Slave, to where the road bends to the southeast. About 1.4 miles (2.3 kilometers) past this corner you will see the kiteboarding camp on the right-hand side of the road. The Fish Hut site is located about 500 feet (152 meters) south of the camp. Turn off the road at the first layby. You should see a large wooden fishing hut visible down

Access about 20 mins from Kralendijk

215

57A

Fish Hut

BONAIRE

by the shore. The track runs either side of a large bush, just inside the entrance, and then heads across a large, flat rubble area dotted with small bushes. This is an unmarked site, so there are no yellow road markers nor is there a yellow mooring buoy at the site. You will find plenty of parking near the fishing hut. Fish Hut is about 7.4 miles (11.9 kilometers) from the airport – a drive of about 14 minutes.

Access

Walk up and over the slight bank that separates the parking area from the shoreline – a distance of about 100 feet (30 meters). There is a sand and rubble beach at this location, which provides easy access to the water for divers, but beware of holes in the reef ledge as you enter the water. This site is best accessed before 10:00am and after 4:00pm, when kiteboarders are least active in the area.

Description

Fish Hut is another one of the unmarked sites along Bonaire’s southern coast. You will recognize it by the ramshackle building standing near the water, which was pieced together by local fishermen using whatever materials they could lay their hands on. You will likely see a number of them around the makeshift building – they are generally friendly towards both divers and kiteboarders. The site is known for its wide plateau featuring swaths of soft and hard corals on a sandy bottom. The reef does not start until over 350 feet (110 meters) from shore. From there it descends to a depth of 115 feet (35 meters), although some of the best sights are above 80 feet (25 meters). The site is known for its large schools of brown and blue chromis. These small damselfish are the favorite prey of small grouper, such as graysbies and coneys, which are also abundant here. Divers frequently see turtles at this site, as well as large creole wrasses and yellowhead snapper.

216

Vista Blue

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Oranje Pan, Bonaire

GPS: 12°02’20.5493”N, 68°15’51.5829”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya International, which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the airport. After Bachelor’s Beach, the road bends slightly away from the coastline for about 0.75 miles (1.2 kilometers) before returning to the shore just before The Lake dive site. Continue down the coast past Salt Pier and White Slave, to where the road bends to the southeast. About 1.4 miles (2.3 kilometers) past this corner you will see the kiteboarding camp on the right-hand side of the road. Vista Blue is located another 0.4 miles (0.6 kilometers) farther south from this camp. Pull off the road to the right-hand side where the yellow rocks mark the site. Drive over the flat gravel area toward the shore – a distance of about 250 feet (76 meters). There is plenty of parking for vehicles. Vista Blue is about 7.7 miles (12.4 kilometers) from the airport – a drive of about 15 minutes.

Access

Gear up at the car and walk to the water’s edge. A slight rock ledge is sometimes present at the waterline at this site, but when the currents and wave action are right, sand and rubble often cover this area. It is a long swim out to the mooring buoy, and visibility can be poor close to shore depending on the strength and direction of the wind and the surf.

Description

Vista Blue has a similar look and feel to many other sites along the southern coast. A mix of gorgonians and hard corals in the back reef transition into hard corals as the reef drops off to a depth of around 120 feet (36 meters). A few thin sand channels break up the reef slope as it descends to patchy reef and sand. What makes

58

BONAIRE

this site different from neighboring sites, is the fact that the soft corals extend down the reef slope in high densities, down to a depth of around 50 feet (15 meters). Many of the soft corals are also more than 5 feet (1.5 meters) in height.

Kralendijk

Vista Blue

about 55 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 21 mins from Kralendijk

217

It is no coincidence that the best diving on this site is between the depths of 30 and 60 feet (9 and 18 meters). Below that depth, the hard corals become much less dense and are of lower quality. The upper section of the reef slope also boasts finger coral, which is less common on neighboring sites, and can act as a useful nursery for juvenile reef fish.

The quality of the reef and the abundance of large gorgonians contributes to the site’s
high level of biodiversity. Vista Blue offers divers the chance to see anemones, moray eels, parrotfish, wrasses, snapper, puffers, grunts, butterflyfish, basslets and barracuda, to name just a few. Even cryptic species are present in high numbers, including slender filefish, arrow crabs and trumpetfish. Schools of blue tangs, ocean surgeonfish and doctorfish also frequent the back reef area.

Trumpetfish like to hide among the soft corals on a reef

Coralie Mathieu/Shutterstock ©

58

Vista Blue

BONAIRE

Route

Swim out to the mooring buoy before descending – the reef here is mostly turf and rubble with a scattering of soft corals and the occasional patch of staghorn coral. Make your way slowly toward the drop off and head south while exploring the
transition between reef and sand. Many species inhabit this dense mix of gorgonians and hard corals. After 10 minutes or so, or once you reach a narrow crack in the reef slope, drop down the wall and start heading back north. There really is no need to drop too far down on the reef slope; we

218

58

Vista Blue

51

75

26

73

BONAIRE

recommend spending your time above a depth of 75 feet (23 meters) to make the most of your dive.

Continue north along the wall, keeping a look out for giant anemones and their associated cleaning shrimp. Moray eels can be seen snaking their way through the complex terrain,
while chromis school above the reef and bar jacks patrol the water. When it is time to turn around, head back toward the buoy along the same transition zone, just at a shallower depth. Once at the buoy you can turn toward shore and exit the water.

219

30

49

58

Vista Blue

Other species commonly found at this site:

39

8

14

15

17

20

33

46

55

56

57

74

81

65

79

4

3

6

BONAIRE

220

59

BONAIRE

Sweet Dreams

Kralendijk

Sweet Dreams

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Advanced Open Water

Location

Oranje Pan, Bonaire

GPS: 12°02’08.0”N, 68°15’44.1”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya International, which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the airport. After Bachelor’s Beach, the road bends slightly away from the coastline for about 0.75
miles (1.2 kilometers) before returning to the shore just before The Lake dive site. Continue down the coast past Salt Pier and White Slave, to where the road bends to the southeast. About 1.4 miles (2.3 kilometers) past this corner you will see the kiteboarding camp on the right-hand side of the road. Sweet Dreams is located another 0.6 miles (1 kilometer) down the road from the camp. Pull off the road to the right-hand side where yellow rocks mark the site next to a small sign. Drive over the flat gravel area toward

Access about 22 mins from Kralendijk

221

59

Sweet Dreams

BONAIRE

the shore – a distance of just over 200 feet (61 meters). There is plenty of parking for vehicles down by the shore where some foliage exists and a line of rocks is positioned in the parking area. Sweet Dreams is 7.9 miles (12.7 kilometers) from the airport – a drive of about 15 minutes.

Access

Gear up and walk through the foliage near the shore to the waterline. A yellow rock in the parking area has an arrow with the word “enter” clearly written on it. You should see another on the beach indicating the best area to enter the water. The shoreline consists largely of reef ledge with some rocks that can be slippery in places, so watch your step. Waves tend to break a little more on this stretch of beach than at adjacent sites, which can reduce visibility in the back reef and can make access challenging. So time your entry and use your buddy for support if necessary. There is no mooring buoy at this site, which means it is only accessible by shore.

Description

Sweet Dreams is one of a series of adjacent dive sites that offers divers the opportunity to swim along a steeply sloped reef. It has a mix of hard corals and sponges, but soft corals dominate the area as they are most at home in the strong currents often found here. The plateau is known to be narrower here and the seas and the water can get choppy, especially when the winds come from the south.

Divers may see filefish, snapper and grunts among the soft corals, as well as sea turtles, some of whom may use the beach as a nesting site during the breeding season (for more information, see the turtle ecology section on pages 250-251). For that reason, do not park on the beach to avoid damaging any nests that may be present. Divers may also see stingrays, barracuda and pelagic predators such as rainbow runners and horse-eye jacks, among other species.

222

59A

BONAIRE

Soft Coral Garden

Kralendijk

Soft Coral Garden

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Advanced Open Water

Location

Oranje Pan, Bonaire

GPS: 12°02’01.5”N, 68°15’37.2”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya International, which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the
airport. After Bachelor’s Beach, the road bends slightly away from the coastline for about 0.75 miles (1.2 kilometers) before returning to the shore just before The Lake dive site. Continue down the coast past Salt Pier and White Slave, to where the road bends to the southeast. About 1.4 miles (2.3 kilometers) past this corner you will see the kiteboarding camp on the right-hand side of the road. Soft Coral Garden is located about another

Access about 22 mins from Kralendijk

223

59A

Soft Coral Garden

BONAIRE

0.8 miles (1.3 kilometer) farther down the road from the camp. The turn for Soft Coral Garden is on the right-hand side of the road, adjacent to a large bush and between two laybys – it can be quite easy to miss, so look for the large rock piles on the shore that mark this site. Pull off the road and drive down the track toward the shore, approximately 150 feet (30.5 meters), between the two saliñas. There is limited parking at this site and only a small area in which to turn around. Soft Coral Garden is 8 miles (13 kilometers) from the airport – a drive of about 15 minutes.

Access

Gear up and walk over the coral rubble ridge to the shore. There are several large boulders near the waterline. The reef ledge here can be a little rutted and slippery in places, and waves tend to break at this location, which can reduce visibility in the backreef and also make
access challenging. Try and time your entry with the waves and use your buddy for support if necessary. Since this is an unmarked site, there is no mooring buoy present.

Description

Soft Coral Garden is another unmarked site that does not appear on the official list of dive sites in the Marine Park. It gets its name from the profusion of soft corals that cover the back reef area and the upper edges of the reef slope. The back reef also has stands of both staghorn and elkhorn coral, making it a fun place for snorkelers to explore. Divers have been known to spot relatively rare blue and rainbow parrotfish here, as well as large honeycomb cowfish and porcupinefish. Barracuda are often spotted above the reef and large yellowfin, black and tiger grouper can be found in the deeper parts of the reef.

224

59B

BONAIRE

Hidden Beach

Kralendijk

Hidden Beach

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Advanced Open Water

Location

Oranje Pan, Bonaire

GPS: 12°01’57.5”N, 68°15’29.3”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya International, which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the airport. After Bachelor’s Beach, the road bends slightly away from the coastline for about 0.75 miles (1.2 kilometers) before returning to the
shore just before The Lake dive site. Continue down the coast past Salt Pier and White Slave, to where the road bends to the southeast. About 1.4 miles (2.3 kilometers) past this corner you will see the kiteboarding camp on the right-hand side of the road. Hidden Beach is located 1 mile (1.6 kilometers) farther along and only about 0.15 miles (0.25 kilometers) past Soft Coral Garden. The turn for Hidden Beach can be easy to miss, but if you look closely you should be able to spot the 250-foot (76-meter) track that crosses the open area from the main road to the shoreline.

Access about 22 mins from Kralendijk

225

59B

Hidden Beach

BONAIRE

There is plenty of parking at the end of the track. A couple of rock piles, including one that contains a driftwood pole adorned with a flag, help mark this spot. Hidden Beach is 8.2 miles (13.2 kilometers) from the airport – a drive of about 15 minutes.

Access

Gear up and walk over the coral rubble ridge to the shore. There are several large boulders near the waterline. The reef ledge here can be a little rutted and slippery in places, and waves tend to break at this location, which can reduce visibility in the back reef and can make access challenging. Try and time your entry with the waves and use your buddy for support if necessary. As an unmarked site, there is no mooring buoy present here; this dive is only accessible from shore.

Description

Much like the other sites along this section of

Bonaire’s coast, Hidden Beach has no real beach. It is one of four adjacent unmarked sites that do not appear on the official Marine Park map. The unmarked sites tend to receive fewer visitors than the marked sites, and yet they offer comparable experiences in many cases.

Hidden Beach has a shallow plateau holds plenty of soft corals and sea fans. It gives way to the reef slope that descends to a depth of nearly 150 feet (46 meters). At this site, the reef has a lower density of hard corals than some of the other sites in the south, but it has a profusion of soft corals and sponges, which typically attract sea turtles, trumpetfish and slender filefish. Divers can also see anemones with their associated cleaner shrimps at this site, along with margates, Bermuda chub, spotted drums and barracuda. Rainbow and blue parrotfish are also fairly common here.

226

59C

BONAIRE

Yellow Hut

Kralendijk

Yellow Hut

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Advanced Open Water

Location

Oranje Pan, Bonaire

GPS: 12°01’52.8”N, 68°15’21.8”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya International, which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the
airport. After Bachelor’s Beach, the road bends slightly away from the coastline for about 0.75 miles (1.2 kilometers) before returning to the shore just before The Lake dive site. Continue down the coast past Salt Pier and White Slave, to where the road bends to the southeast. About 1.4 miles (2.3 kilometers) past this corner you will see the kiteboarding camp on the right-hand side of the road. Yellow Hut is located 1.2 miles (1.9 kilometers) farther south from the camp and just less than

Access about 23 mins from Kralendijk

227

59C

Yellow Hut

BONAIRE

0.2 miles (0.3 kilometers) past Hidden Beach at the point where the shoreline vegetation ends. The turn for Yellow Hut is on the right-hand side of the road between two large bushes, and it runs slightly back toward the north as it cuts between two saliñas. There is plenty of parking at the end of the track. Rock piles constructed next to the shoreline help mark the site, including one that contains a driftwood pole. Yellow Hut is 8.5 miles (13.6 kilometers) from the airport – a drive of about 16 minutes.

Access

Gear up and walk over the coral rubble ridge to the shore. There are several large boulders near the waterline, but a sand patch located seaward of the rock piles makes entering the water a lot easier than at other sites along this stretch of the coast. Waves tend to break at this location, which can reduce visibility in the back reef and can
make access challenging. Try and time your entry with the waves and use your buddy for support if necessary. There is no mooring buoy at this site, and therefore no boat access.

Description

Yellow Hut is one of four adjacent unmarked sites along the southernmost section of Bonaire’s coast. The name originates from a small yellow hut that once stood here but has long since disappeared. The reef is still here, however, and it offers divers another chance to explore dense forests of soft corals, along with a gentle reef slope with a mix of hard and soft corals, and sponges. As with other sites around here, divers commonly find sea turtles among the soft corals, as well as trumpetfish and black margates. Snapper are particularly common at this site, namely schoolmaster snapper, but also yellowtail, mahogany, cubera and grey.

228

59D

BONAIRE

Chogogo

Kralendijk

Chogogo

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Advanced open Water

Location

Oranje Pan, Bonaire

GPS: 12°01’47.5”N, 68°15’14.7”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya International, which becomes EEG Boulevard
as you pass the airport. After Bachelor’s Beach, the road bends slightly away from the coastline for about 0.75 miles (1.2 kilometers) before returning to the shore just before The Lake dive site. Continue down the coast past Salt Pier and White Slave, to where the road bends to the southeast. About 1.4 miles (2.3 kilometers) past this corner you will see the kiteboarding camp on the right-hand side of the road. Chogogo is located 1.4 miles (2.2

Access about 23 mins from Kralendijk

229

59D

Chogogo

BONAIRE

kilometers) to the south of the camp and just 0.17 miles (0.27 kilometers) past Yellow Hut. You will see a house with a red roof near the shore; the turning for Chogogo is on the right just north of the house. Drive down the track to the shore – a distance of about 150 feet (46 meters). Like many of the sites on this stretch of coast, the site is unmarked on both the road and in the water. However, two large rock piles placed on the rubble shoulder adjacent to the shore help mark the site. Chogogo is 8.7 miles (14 kilometers) from the airport – a drive of about 16 minutes.

Access

Gear up and walk over the coral rubble ridge to the shore, past the rock pile and down onto the reef ledge adjacent to the waterline. The reef ledge is a little rutted and slippery in places, and waves tend to break at this location, which can reduce visibility in the
back reef and make access challenging. Try and time your entry with the waves and use your buddy for support if necessary. There are a few shallow reef areas close to shore that divers should be sure to avoid.

Description

Chogogo is the last unmarked dive site along the southern stretch of the Bonaire coastline. The current can be strong so close to the southern tip of the island, so please assess the conditions before entering the water and adjust your dive plan should conditions change. Chogogo is known for its soft corals, as is characteristic of the dive sites in this area. The hard and soft corals at this site are less dense than at other sites farther up the coast, but there is still plenty to explore. Divers are likely to see black margates, surgeonfish, creole wrasse, spotted drums and even the occasional sea turtle here.

230

The iconic slave huts at the Red Slave dive site

Red Slave

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Advanced Open Water

Location

Oranje Pan, Bonaire

GPS: 12°01’35.4”N, 68°15’03.9”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya International, which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the airport. Red Slave is just under 9 miles (14.5 kilometers) from the airport – a drive of about 16 minutes. After Bachelor’s Beach, the road bends slightly away from the coastline for about 0.75 miles (1.2 kilometers) before returning to the shore just before The Lake dive site. Continue down the coast past Salt Pier and White Slave, to where the road bends to the southeast.

From this corner you need to continue past the kiteboarding camp until you see the yellow slave huts adjacent to the Red Slave dive site – a distance of another 3 miles (4.8 kilometers) or a drive of about 6 minutes by car. The dive site is located near the southern tip of the island and is easily recognizable by the dozen or so historic huts located on either side of the road. The site is marked with yellow rocks that are visible by the roadside.

Access

The site is accessible by car or by boat, but most divers treat this as a shore dive given the long distance south. There is ample parking in and among the yellow huts, although this site is rarely crowded. A mooring buoy located at the southern end of the site can help keep you oriented as you enter the water. This part of Bonaire’s coastline is relatively easy to access, just a short walk from the parking area. With gear on, walk down a slight incline to the left of the last hut in the line along the shore. Enter the water carefully as the rocks can be quite slippery and swells from the east can wrap around the southern tip of the island generating sizeable surf at times.

Description

Red Slave gets its name from the nearby slave huts. It is another one of Bonaire’s fantastic wall

60

BONAIRE

dives, with the reef dropping off from a depth of around 30 feet (9 meters) down to a maximum depth of 167 feet (51 meters) and a sandy seafloor below. Because this site is located so close to the southern tip of the island, the rough waters on the east coast often curl around and mix with the calmer waters of the west coast. This southern position means this site sometimes experiences strong currents and large waves, which can deter snorkelers and novice divers. Be sure to assess the conditions before entering the water.

As it does for much of the sites along the west coast of Bonaire, the reef wall at Red Slave falls like a curtain, with a repeating pattern of vertical channels in the reef wall. Some of those recessed channels have sand at the bottom of them, others

Kralendijk

Red Slave

about 60 mins from Kralendijk

Access about 24 mins from Kralendijk

231

Reef Smart ©

60

Red Slave

BONAIRE

have continuous coral coverage from peak to valley. The sections of reef that protrude from the wall vary in width and height, tending to get wider and shallower toward the northern end of the site.

All of this complexity, along with the mixing currents, creates an environment that supports a wide variety of reef fish, sponges and corals. Sea fans and soft corals thrive shoreward of the drop off zone, while hard corals cover the reef wall, interspersed with sponges and sea whips. The mixing waters support schools of snapper and chromis, while patrolling barracuda keep watch. Eagle rays are also known to frequent this site.

Route

With currents generally moving from south to
north, divers can enter the water and swim out toward the yellow mooring buoy across the turf algae that covers that seafloor in shallower waters. The turf gives way to a forest of soft corals located near the buoy anchor. Keep an eye out for plenty of juvenile reef fish, including Atlantic trumpetfish and slender filefish, which often frequent these kinds of habitats.

Once at the buoy, descend to the reef and head another 50 feet (15 meters) toward the reef wall. As you drop down the reef slope, watch for larger fish, particularly pelagic species such as jacks and rainbow runners. When you reach your desired depth, head northeast along the face of the wall where schools of black durgons, snapper and grunts are common.

SAFETY TIP

When exploring remote and potentially hazardous sites such as Red Slave, Willemstoren Lighthouse and White Hole, it is worth considering diving with a professional guide. Consider bringing someone who can stay on land to assist with entry and exit, or call for help if a problem occurs. It is also
worth informing a friend or local dive center where you plan to dive and when you plan to return, in case something unexpected occurs.

Currents and waves can take a turn for the worse in locations such as these, producing potentially dangerous conditions without warning. Consider cutting your dive short if need be.

232

60

Red Slave

A

59

23

BONAIRE

To extend your bottom time, consider slowly ascending as you swim along the wall. Halfway through your planned dive time, turn around and head back along the upper section of the wall, checking out the transition between sand and reef. Complete the dive either by returning to the
buoy and heading in or simply crossing directly toward shore from the top of the drop off.

71

233

32

60

Red Slave

Other species commonly found at this site:

56

10

22

26

30

49

51

65

66

69

72

76

83

B

24

J

F

9

BONAIRE

67

234

61

BONAIRE

Willemstoren Lighthouse

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Advanced Open Water

Location

Oranje Pan, Bonaire

GPS: 12°01’41.8”N, 68°14’14.4”W

Getting there

Drive south from Kralendijk on Kaya International, which becomes EEG Boulevard as you pass the airport. After Bachelor’s Beach, the road bends slightly away from the coastline for about 0.75 miles (1.2 kilometers) before returning to the shore just before The Lake dive site. Continue down the coast past Salt Pier, Pink Beach and White Slave, to where the road bends to the southeast. Continue down the last stretch of the southwest coast past Red Slave, and around the bend in the road at the southernmost point of Bonaire. The Willemstoren Lighthouse is just under a mile (less than 1.6 kilometers) past this bend. Pull over beside the lighthouse; there should be plenty of room to park here. Although this is an official site, it is unmarked with no yellow road markers or yellow mooring buoy. Willemstoren Lighthouse is about is 10 miles (16 kilometers) from the airport – a drive of about 19 minutes.

Access

Gear up at the car and walk over the rocky terrain towards the shoreline – a distance of about 150 feet (46 meters). Rock piles that have been

Kralendijk

Willemstoren Lighthouse

Access about 26 mins from Kralendijk

235

constructed on a coral ridge adjacent to the shore help mark the best access point. The ridge slopes down to a reef ledge that provides access to the water. You can enter the water on either side of the lighthouse.

Standing on the shoreline at this site can feel quite intimidating. The waves are often large and constant, and the currents here can be particularly strong. It is often best to wait for calm conditions to dive this site. As best you can, try and time your entry and exit with the waves, bracing as waves approach and shuffling forward in the water between waves. When starting your dive, descend as quickly as possible.

Description

The Willemstoren Lighthouse dive site is easily identified by the tall lighthouse that stands between the coastal road and the shoreline at the southeastern tip of the island. Because of its location, the waters and currents here are typically very strong, making this dive suitable only for advanced divers. The site is known for its soft corals and sea fans, as well as the opportunity to see large pelagic species, such as horse-eye and crevalle jacks, and cero mackerel, which feed off the large schools of boga. Bar jacks and black durgons are particularly abundant at this site. Large green moray eels and even nurse sharks and the occasional dolphin have also been spotted here.

61

Willemstoren Lighthouse

BONAIRE

DID YOU KNOW?

The Willemstoren Lighthouse was built in 1837. It is the first lighthouse built on Bonaire and it remains a fully functioning lighthouse that assists boats in navigating the challenging currents around the
southern tip of the island. The Lighthouse stands in excellent condition today thanks to government-led renovations completed in 2012. It is one of three lighthouses and two light beacons on the island and is considered by many people to be the most famous.

236

62

BONAIRE

White Hole

Kralendijk

White

Hole

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Advanced Open Water

Location

Lac Bay, Bonaire

GPS (White Hole): 12°05’39.4”N, 68°13’41.0”W

GPS (Parking in Jibe City): 12°05’33.8”N, 68°14’12.2”W

Getting there

White Hole is located on the reef that runs across the opening of Lac Bay, a shallow lagoon on Bonaire’s east coast. To get there, head south toward the airport on EEG Boulevard. A half mile (0.8 kilometers) after you pass the runway, turn left along Kaya IR Randolph Statius van Eps – the turn is marked with signs for the Donkey Sanctuary. After 4.4 miles, turn left onto EEG Boulevard toward Sorobon Beach. (EEG Boulevard runs down the south coast and then back up the north coast, so you are just taking a shortcut across the middle of the island.)
Drive north for close to a third of a mile (0.5 kilometers) until you see signs for Jibe City and the Hangout Beach Bar. There is ample space in the parking lot next to the road. Park here and walk across the road and enter the alleyway that passes through Jibe City to the Hangout Beach Bar. From there you face a 0.5-mile (0.8-kilometer) walk out to the reef through the shallow waters of Lac Bay with all of your gear. You are aiming for the rubble barrier that separates the bay from the open ocean. Take a heading of 81 degrees from the beach at Jibe City out to the reef to get close to White Hole. The footing in the bay is uneven. You will also need to watch for windsurfers, as this area is a popular place for lessons.

Once at the reef, double check that the conditions are suitable for diving before entering the water. White Hole is just 200 feet (61 meters) off the reef.

Access about 18 mins from Kralendijk

about a 30-min walk from Jibe City

about 105 mins from Kralendijk

237

62

White Hole

BONAIRE

Access

White Hole is best accessed in late summer when the prevailing winds change direction to blow from the west, and the east coast waters are less rough. At other times of the year, the surf and currents can make diving here dangerous. For safety and to ensure you get the most out of your dive, we strongly recommend diving this site with a guide.

White Hole is accessible by boat, which makes reaching this site much easier and safer, and is strongly encouraged by STINAPA. If you do choose to shore dive this site be careful on the walk out across Lac Bay, and as you climb over the rubble beach and swim out to the site. Even during the quiet part of the year, the currents and surf can be dangerous. This dive is only for experienced and physically fit
divers. Before entering the water, make sure you have a good compass bearing with which to navigate to the hole.

Description

White Hole is marked by a large, oblong hole in the reef that is visible because of the contrast between the white, sandy bottom and the dark reef that surrounds the hole, which is the origin of its name. White Hole is about 35 feet (10.5 meters) deep and roughly 470 feet (143 meters) long and 130 feet (39.5 meters) wide. Tarpon often hang out in the hole, while divers may also see nurse sharks and rays taking advantage of the protection offered by the steep walls and sandy bottom. In the reef that surrounds the hole, divers often spot numerous sea turtles hiding under the soft corals.

RELAX & RECHARGE

Foodies is a relatively new restaurant on Bonaire, but it has rapidly gained a strong following thanks to its delicious food and low-key trendy vibe. The menu is varied, featuring sandwiches, salads, burgers, risottos, pasta and even sashimi from
locally caught fish. If you are looking for a sun-down drink with stunning views over Lac Bay, then you will find plenty of choice in their well-stocked bar. There is also a snack menu, featuring beer battered fish and traditional Dutch Bitterballen.

Visit: Foodiesbonaire.com

238

Andy Troy/Shutterstock©

Klein Bonaire is a small island just 0.5 miles (0.8 kilometers) off the west coast of Bonaire. The island is shaped like a slightly curved teardrop, roughly 2.5 miles (4 kilometers) long by 1.5 miles (2.5 kilometers) wide, and with a maximum elevation of just 5 feet (1.5 meters) above seal level. (Klein means small or little in Dutch, and thus Klein Bonaire means “Little Bonaire.”)

The island is uninhabited although the remains of several structures, including slave huts are still visible. In the 1850s, the island was used as a quarantine station to protect Bonaire from cholera. Over the years, the island changed hands numerous times until it was purchased by the government in 1999 and under the management of the Bonaire National Marine Park. The measures taken to protect the island from future development have paid off, not just in preserving multiple turtle nesting beaches but by maintaining the high quality of the coral reefs at the 26 unique dive sites that surround the island.

Klein Bonaire offers very little shelter and is only a few feet above sealevel at its highest point

ABOUT KLEIN BONAIRE

KLEIN BONAIRE

About Klein Bonaire

239

ABOUT KLEIN BONAIRE

Reef Smart ©

No Name Beach on Klein Bonaire is a great place to get away from it all

KLEIN BONAIRE

The dive sites are listed from A through Z in the Marine Park’s official list of dive sites, each with a whimsical name chosen by Captain Don Stewart, the patriarch of diving in Bonaire. The reefs start mere steps from shore but are can only be accessed by boat. Many dive centers offer trips out to Klein Bonaire. If you are more interested in snorkeling or simply getting away from the mainland, you can take a 20-minute water taxi out to the island for as little as $15 USD. The boat can ferry you out to the island and leave you there, returning for you later in the day.

We have provided information about one of the 26 dive sites on this small island, but all 25 are worth visiting.

There is little to no shade available on the island, so plan accordingly. And remember that you will need to pay the Nature Fee to visit the island. You can buy the tag at most hotels, dive centers, activity centers or at STINAPA headquarters near Oil Slick Leap.

240

KLEIN BONAIRE

No Name (Playita) ......................

Ebo’s Reef ......................................

Jerry’s Sponges ...........................

Just a Nice Dive ...........................

Nearest Point ...............................

Keepsake ......................................

Bonaventure ................................

Monte’s Divi .................................

Rock Pile ........................................

Joanne‘s Sunchi ..........................

Captain Don’s Reef .....................

South Bay .....................................

Hands Off ......................................

Forest .............................................

Southwest Corner ......................

Munk’s Haven ..............................

Twixt ...............................................

Sharon’s Serenity ........................

Vallerie’s Hills ...............................

Mi Dushi ........................................

Yellow Man ...................................

Carl’s Hill ........................................

Ebo’s Special ................................

Leonora’s Reef .............................

Knife ...............................................

Sampler .........................................

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

I

J

K

L

M

N

O

P

Q

R

S

T

U

V

W

X

Y

Z

Access

Dive and Snorkel Sites

Klein Bonaire

241

KLEIN BONAIRE

klein bonaire

242

A green moray eel hides under the reef

South Bay

Difficulty

Current

Depth

Reef

Fauna

Level Open Water

Location

Klein Bonaire

GPS: 12°8’58.3”N, 68°19’13.6”W

Getting there

As its name implies, South Bay is a site located in a small bay on the southern coast of Klein Bonaire, the small island that sits off the west coast of Bonaire. The only way to reach this site and all other dive and snorkel sites on Klein Bonaire is by boat. Most of the local dive centers visit Klein Bonaire, so call ahead if you are interested to find out when they are next headed out. The island is close to downtown Kralendijk, and the trip to South Bay takes approximately 20 minutes – other sites are closer.

Access

South Bay is accessible to divers and snorkelers of all experience levels. The best diving is relatively shallow along the top of the reef wall that drops off to a depth of around 130 feet (40 meters). The shallow plateau leading out from the shore is perfect for snorkeling. The site has a permanent mooring buoy that is quite far off shore, at a depth of 20 feet (6 meters). Snorkelers will want to focus on the area of the site on the shoreward side of the buoy unless they are able to dive down to the bottom or if visibility is very good.

Description

South Bay is an interesting site with plenty to see. Coral rubble and sand dominate the back reef area at depths of less than 17 feet (5 meters). In slightly deeper waters, divers and snorkelers can explore an area that includes mostly gorgonians, yellow pencil coral heads, small brain corals and soft corals interspersed with sand patches. This back reef area also boasts very high rugosity (a measure of the complexity of the seafloor), which makes it the most interesting part of the site to explore, although divers should

still check out the reef wall that begins at a depth of 35 feet (10.5 meters). In several areas on the wall, large coral heads have broken away and toppled over, creating small ledges and exposing holes in the reef wall. There are also a few sand channels

Access about 20 mins from Kralendijk

KLEIN BONAIRE

L

South Bay

243

Wet Lizard Photography/Shutterstock ©

wending their way down the steep slope of the drop off.

South Bay offers a chance to see many different species, in part due to the high rugosity that attracts reef fish. Divers will spot many fish cleaning stations throughout the site, both on the wall and in the back reef area. Black durgon and creole wrasses regularly swim through the waters above the reef, and honeycomb cowfish and fairy basslets can be spotted closer to the
seafloor. Large green morays are often seen farther down the wall at a depth of around 75 feet (23 meters), while yellow goatfish frequent the sand patches in the back reef. Barracuda regularly patrol the reef drop off area, and divers have also spotted large grouper on this site.

Route

The current at this site can be modest to strong, so the route will likely depend on the direction and strength of that current. Drop

South Bay

KLEIN BONAIRE

L

down at the site of the mooring buoy and make your way toward the drop off before turning to head east (into the prevailing current). You can choose to descend the reef wall or remain up near the transition between back reef and reef slope where it is
most interesting.

Continue east until you see the reef wall turning back toward shore, which is just after a 10-foot-wide (3-meter) depression with sand at the bottom. From there, turn

244

South Bay

73

B

17

F

KLEIN BONAIRE

L

around and return toward the buoy along the shallow reef area and through the forest of gorgonians and coral heads. Once past the buoy, cross back over to the reef line and head west along the top of the wall. Once you reach a 15-foot (4.5-meter) cliff,
turn back around and start heading back toward the buoy to end your dive.

245

A

South Bay

Other species commonly found at this site:

18

6

7

9

11

14

15

25

30

39

62

63

64

51

22

3

2

5

KLEIN BONAIRE

L

I

246

Identifying coral reef organisms is an enjoyable part of any underwater adventure. Not only can you appreciate the diversity and wonder that surrounds you on a reef, but you will be better able to understand the story that is unfolding right before your eyes.

For example, you will know where and when to look for certain species, as well as what they eat, who eats them, how big they get and how long they will live. But more specifically, you will understand certain behaviors that can be observed on coral reefs, such as why damselfish attack larger creatures, or which creatures form symbiotic relationships and why?

Many times, behavior is an integral part of the identification process. In some cases, understanding how a particular fish behaves,

Orange elephant ear sponges are found on many of the deeper reefs in Bonaire

SPECIES

Species

BONAIRE

SAFETY TIP

The section on dangerous species that follows is intended to provide the information you need to recognize the handful of species that can cause injury. These species should not be considered “active threats,” but rather organisms that have the potential to cause harm. Most injuries occur because the organism in question has felt threatened and because a diver or snorkeler has not recognized the warning signs. By engaging in safe and conscientious diving and snorkeling practices, and by keeping in mind a few key safety tips, you can avoid having your experience ruined by an unpleasant sting or bite.

247

John A. Anderson/Shutterstock ©

SPECIES

The information provided in this guidebook represents the most up-to-date scientific knowledge available at the time of publication. It covers some of the most common reef species you will find during your time in the waters of Bonaire. However, it should be noted that coral reef ecologists continue to discover new information about species, their behaviors and their interactions. Later editions of this book may contain modifications that reflect new knowledge.

The following pages are divided into three sections, featuring information about sea turtles, which have a rather unique life history; dangerous species, including details on the kind of threat they pose and how to treat injuries caused by them; and finally, a general species section that helps you identify and learn about the most common species found at the Bonaire sites featured in this guide.

such as whether it is active during the night or day, or whether it is an ambush predator or active forager, can be more useful in determining its identity than its color or shape.

Many reef organisms may appear very similar at first glance, and the wide diversity of species on coral reefs can appear to be a chaotic jumble. But by combining an understanding of animal behavior with some basic identification information, you can start to tease apart that puzzle and experience the wonder of the coral reef.

Horse-eye jacks often school over Bonaire’s reefs

Luiz Felipe V. Puntel/Shutterstock ©

BONAIRE

248

SEA TURTLE IDENTIFICATION

Sea turtle identification

GREEN TURTLE

CHELONIA MYDAS

Maximum size: 4ft (1.4m)

Longevity: Up to 75 years

Habitat: Seagrass beds, reefs

Diet: Jellyfish and crustaceans when young,
and algae and seagrass as adults

Sightings: Juveniles and sub-adults common,
while adults are present during nesting season

Behavior: Green turtles can be found grazing on vegetation in shallow water or cruising the reef. Most green turtles migrate short distances along the coast to reach nesting beaches, but some may migrate up to 1,300 miles (2,100 kilometers) to reach nesting beaches.

Predators (adults): Tiger sharks, orcas (killer whales).

A

Hawksbill SEA turtle
eretmochelys imbricata

Maximum size: 3ft (0.9m)

Longevity: Beyond 20 years

Habitat: Reefs

Diet: Sponges, tunicates, squid, shrimp

Sightings: Juveniles and sub-adults common,
while adults are present during nesting season

Behavior: Hawksbills can be found feeding throughout the day or resting with their bodies wedged into reef cracks and crevices. Some hawksbills don’t migrate at all, while others migrate over thousands of miles / kilometers.

Predators (adults): Tiger sharks, orcas (killer whales).

B

loggerhead SEA TURTLE
caretta caretta

Maximum size: 3.5ft (1.1m)

Longevity: Up to 60 years

Habitat: Reefs and open ocean

Diet: Crabs, shrimp, jellyfish, vegetation

Sightings: Almost always of adults

Behavior: Loggerheads are occasionally found in the open ocean, but regularly move inshore to feed on reef invertebrates. Loggerhead sea turtles can migrate for thousands of miles / kilometers to reach new feeding grounds and return to the same nesting beaches.

Predators (adults): Tiger sharks, orcas (killer whales).

C

BONAIRE

249

SEA TURTLE IDENTIFICATION

Sea Turtle Conservation status: ENDANGERED

All species of sea turtles are endangered and many human activities contribute to their decline:

Turtles are hunted in many parts of the world, targeting their meat and eggs for food, and their shells to make jewelery, eyeglass frames and curios. Many others drown in fishing nets intended for shrimp or fish, or are struck and killed by passing boats.

Turtles eat and choke on plastic and other trash, while pollution increases the frequency of turtle disease.

Coastal development is rapidly reducing the number of active nesting beaches.

ECO TIP

Sea turtles need our help to survive and thrive alongside our coastal communities. Consider the following tips:

LIGHTS OUT

Turn out lights visible from the beach to avoid disorienting nesting turtles and hatchlings

DON’T LITTER

Plastic cups, bags and other trash can kill turtles when they mistake them for food.

DON’T DISTURB

Turtles you see on the beach or in the water, whether nesting, feeding or hatching, should be left alone and observed from a distance – without flashlights.

PLEASE DON’T FEED

Human food can make sea turtles sick and can leave them vulnerable to capture

VOLUNTEER

Support your local turtle conservation programs, including participating in beach cleanups

GREEN TURTLE

CHELONIA MYDAS

Maximum size: 4ft (1.4m)

Longevity: Up to 75 years

Habitat: Seagrass beds, reefs

Diet: Jellyfish and crustaceans when young,
and algae and seagrass as adults

Sightings: Juveniles and sub-adults common,
while adults are present during nesting season

Behavior: Green turtles can be found grazing on vegetation in shallow water or cruising the reef. Most green turtles migrate short distances along the coast to reach nesting beaches, but some may migrate up to 1,300 miles (2,100 kilometers) to reach nesting beaches.

Predators (adults): Tiger sharks, orcas (killer whales).

A

Hawksbill SEA turtle
eretmochelys imbricata

Maximum size: 3ft (0.9m)

Longevity: Beyond 20 years

Habitat: Reefs

Diet: Sponges, tunicates, squid, shrimp

Sightings: Juveniles and sub-adults common,
while adults are present during nesting season

Behavior: Hawksbills can be found feeding throughout the day or resting with their bodies wedged into reef cracks and crevices. Some hawksbills don’t migrate at all, while others migrate over thousands of miles / kilometers.

Predators (adults): Tiger sharks, orcas (killer whales).

B

BONAIRE

Sea Turtle Conservation Bonaire

All three of the turtle species in Bonaire nest on the island’s beaches – with the bulk of nesting activity taking place on the northeast coast of Klein Bonaire. Hawksbill’s account for nearly half of all nests, but divers and snorkelers will still see plenty of loggerheads and green sea turtles in the water. The STCB started protecting Bonaire’s
turtles in 1991. In addition to a tagging program, the non-profit organization also leads nesting patrols as part of an outreach effort. If you are interested in learning more, supporting the STCB or even joining them for a patrol, visit: Bonaireturtles.org

If you see a turtle in trouble, call the STCB hotline: +599-780-0433

Juvenile sea turtles are a common sight in Bonaire

Tropicdreams/Shutterstock ©

250

4

Sea turtle ecology

Mating

Most sea turtles reproduce in the warm summer months except for the leatherback, whose mating season spans fall and winter. Many species migrate great distances to return to the their customary nesting beach. Courtship and mating occur in the shallow waters offshore.

Arnunthorn R /Shutterstock ©

SEA TURTLE ECOLOGY

Nesting

Females crawl onto the beach at night (or during the day in the case of Kemp’s ridleys) and dig a shallow nest. They lay up to 200 small white eggs before covering the nest and returning to the sea. The eggs incubate for 45 to 70 days, depending on the species.

Adulthood

In adulthood, some sea turtle species return to coastal waters where coral reefs and nearshore waters provide plenty of food and protection from predators.

Stephan Kerkhofs /Shutterstock ©

UWPhotog /Shutterstock ©

1

2A

5

BONAIRE

251

Laura Dinraths /Shutterstock ©

SEA TURTLE ECOLOGY

Hatching

When they hatch, hundreds of tiny turtles dig their way out of the nest and head away from the darkness of land, and toward the light reflecting off the sea. As many as 90 percent are eaten by predators as eggs or as hatchlings within the first few hours of their lives.

Juvenile stage

Young turtles drift through the open ocean for years, often associating with floating sargassum (seaweed) mats. They feed on plankton and small jellyfish. Little is known about this stage of their lives.

Omaly Darcia/Shutterstock ©

David Evison/Shutterstock ©

David Evison/Shutterstock ©

2B

3

2A

BONAIRE

252

DANGEROUS SPECIES

SPECIES

Dangerous species

MEDICAL DISCLAIMER

The treatment advice contained in this book is meant for informational purposes only and is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, either in terms of diagnosis or treatment. Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health provider if you are injured by a marine organism. Never disregard professional medical advice or delay seeking it because of something you have read in this book.

CARIBBEAN REEF SHARK

Carcharhinus perezii

Maximum size: 10ft (3m) (10ft)

Longevity: Unknown, but possibly 20 years or more

Typical depth: 3–213ft (1–65m)

Behavior: The Caribbean reef shark is the most common shark species encountered on Caribbean coral reefs. They tend to inhabit drop-offs and the seaward edges of reefs, where they feed on most reef fish species, as well as stingrays and eagle rays.

Predators: Larger shark species, such as bull and tiger sharks

WARNING: Caribbean reef sharks rarely attack humans, but they have been known to cause injury if threatened or cornered. Warning signs of an attack include head swings, exaggerated swimming, back arching and lowered pectoral fins. Attacks usually result in biting or raking with the teeth, which can cause deep lacerations. There have been numerous documented attacks on humans by Caribbean reef sharks but no known fatalities.

TREATMENT: Exit the water as soon as possible. Rinse the bite with soap and water, and apply pressure to control bleeding. Shark attacks often result in shock, so keep the patient warm, calm and shaded. Elevate the feet unless that may cause additional injury. Do not provide anything to eat or drink. Seek medical attention as soon as possible, since even minor bites require cleaning and suturing.

D

SOUTHERN STINGRAY

Dasyatis americana

Maximum size: 7ft (2m) disk diameter, 300lbs (136kg)

Longevity: Unknown, but probably over 10 years

Typical depth: 0–170ft (0–53m)

Behavior: Stingrays are most active at night when they hunt for hard-shelled prey such as snails, crabs, lobsters and occasionally fish. During the day, they are often found buried up to their eyes in sand.

Predators: Sharks and large grouper

WARNING: Stingrays have a serrated venomous spine at the base of their tail that they use for defense. The area around a puncture wound from this spine may become red and swollen, and you may experience muscle cramps, nausea, fever and chills.

TREATMENT: If you are stung, exit the water immediately. Apply pressure above the wound to reduce bleeding, clean the wound and soak the area with hot water, ideally around 113°F (45°C), to reduce the pain. Apply a dressing and seek medical attention. Antibiotics may be needed to reduce the risk of infection. Stingray injuries can be very painful, often reaching a peak around one hour after the injury and lasting up to two days. But they are rarely fatal unless the injury is to the head, neck or abdomen.

E

253

DANGEROUS SPECIES

SPECIES

WARNING: Barracuda do not usually attack divers or snorkelers unless provoked. However, evidence suggests they are attracted to objects that glint or shine, such as necklaces, watches or regulators, which they may mistake for prey. The bite of the barracuda is not toxic, but their teeth can produce a severe laceration or deep puncture wound.

TREATMENT: Exit the water as soon as possible and apply pressure to reduce bleeding. The wound should be cleaned and dressed. Medical attention may be necessary for severe bites, including su-tures to close the wound and antibiotics to reduce the risk of infection.

GREAT BARRACUDA

Sphyraena barracuda

Maximum size: 6ft (2m), 110lbs (50kg)

Longevity: Around 20 years

Typical depth: 1–100m (3–330ft)

Behavior: Barracuda are most active during the day, feeding on jacks, grunts, grouper, snapper, squid and even other barracuda. They are often solitary in nature, but occasionally school in large numbers. They have even been documented “herding” fish they plan on consuming. Barracuda use their keen eyesight to hunt for food. They are one of the fastest fish in the ocean, capable of bursts of speed up to 30mph (48kph). Along with their two sets of razor sharp teeth, there are few prey capable of escaping a barracuda once it decides to attack.

Predators: Sharks, tuna and large grouper

F

SPOTTED SCORPIONFISH

Scorpaena plumieri

Maximum size: 18in (45cm)

Longevity: Around 15 years

Typical depth: 3–197ft (1–60m)

Behavior: Spotted scorpionfish spend much of their time lying motionless on the seabed, using camouflage to ambush fish and crustaceans. They have a large, expandable mouth capable of creating a vacuum to suck in prey, which they swallow whole.

Predators: Large snapper, sharks, rays and moray eels

G

WARNING: Scorpionfish have a dozen venomous dorsal spines for self-defense. The spines can penetrate skin (most commonly when stepped on), injecting a toxin that causes severe pain that can last from several hours to several days. The area around the injury may also swell and become red.

TREATMENT: Exit the water quickly and rinse the affected area with seawater. Remove any spines and use pressure to control any bleeding. Apply the hottest water you can stand to reduce pain, ideally around 113°F (45°C). Let the wound heal uncovered, but antibiotics may be required to avoid infection. The toxin can be painful, but it is not usually fatal. However, seek medical attention if concerned or if symptoms are worse than described.

254

DANGEROUS SPECIES

SPECIES

RED LIONFISH

Pterois volitans

Maximum size: 15in (38cm)

Longevity: Around 10 years

Typical depth: 7–180ft (2–55m)

Behavior: Red lionfish are originally from the Indo-West Pacific, and are considered an invasive species in the Western Atlantic. They are most active at dusk and during the night when they hunt for fish, shrimp, crabs and other reef creatures. Lionfish can live without food for up to three months.

Predators: Occasional predation by certain sharks and grouper

WARNING: Lionfish have up to 16 venomous dorsal and anal spines that can deliver a powerful neurotoxin when they puncture skin. Lionfish do not generally attack divers and snorkelers, but may sting in self-defense if you get too close. Divers and snorkelers may feel intense pain after being stung, followed by swelling and redness around the wound.

TREATMENT: Exit the water as soon as possible and remove any pieces of the spines that may remain in the wound. Use pressure to control the bleeding and apply the hottest water you can stand, ideally around 113°F (45°C), to reduce the pain. Some people experience shortness of breath, dizziness and nausea. There have been no known fatalities from a lionfish sting, but there is always a risk of complications for vulnerable individuals, including congestive heart failure. Seeking medical attention is advised. The pain may last anywhere from several hours to several days.

H

GREEN MORAY EEL

Gymnothorax funebris

Maximum size: 8ft (2.5m), 65lbs (30kg)

Longevity: Unknown

Typical depth: 3–164ft (1–50m)

Behavior: Green morays are solitary animals that hide in reef cracks and crevices during the day. At night, they prey on fish, octopuses, crustaceans and even other eels, primarily using smell to hunt as their eye-sight is poor.

Predators: Unknown

WARNING: Moray eels have sharp teeth that can produce a painful wound, but thankfully they rarely attack unless provoked. There is evidence that the bite of some morays may contain toxins that increase pain and bleeding, but more research is needed. Although all morays can bite, larger species such as the green moray eel can cause more severe injuries than smaller species.

TREATMENT: Exit the water as soon as possible. Treat the wound by immediately cleaning the affected area with soap and water. Apply pressure to reduce the bleeding, then apply a topical antibiotic before dressing the wound to reduce the risk of infection. Sutures may be required in some cases. If in doubt or if the wound becomes infected, seek medical attention.

I

255

DANGEROUS SPECIES

SPECIES

JELLYFISH & SIPHONOPHORES

Hydroidomedusae

& Siphonophorae

Maximum size: 7ft (2m) with tentacles extending much farther

Longevity: From a few hours to several years

Typical depth: 0–66ft (0–20m)

Behavior: Jellyfish and siphonophores are both types of cnidaria. Jellyfish are individual animals, while siphonophores are colonies of specialized cells called zooids, such as the Portuguese man o’ war. They both drift in the water and use stinging cells called nematocysts to capture and paralyze prey, including plankton and small fish.

Predators: Salmon, tuna and some sharks and sea turtle species

WARNING: Jellyfish and siphonophores have stinging cells called nematocysts located on their tentacles that can inject a toxin when brushed against bare skin. Depending on the species, jellyfish toxin can cause mild tingling to intense pain, and can be fatal in some rare cases. The contact site may also become red and blistered. Even dead jellyfish on the beach can sting, so avoid touching them.

TREATMENT: Exit the water as quickly as possible, watching out for other jellyfish. Rinse the affected area with seawater to remove any pieces of tentacle on the skin. Do not rinse with fresh water, which can trigger any remaining nematocysts to sting. The best treatment for jellyfish stings may depend on the species, but most can be treated by rinsing the affected area with vinegar or creating a paste using baking soda and seawater. The papain enzyme found in meat tenderizer and papaya can also help. Consider seeking medical attention.

J

FIRE CORAL

Milleporidae

Maximum size: 3ft (1m)

Longevity: Unknown, but likely decades

Typical depth: 3–130ft (1–40m)

Behavior: Several fire coral species occur in the Caribbean, attaching to the reef substrate and growing in branching, blade and encrusting forms. Fire corals are hydroids with a hard skeleton, and are more closely related to jellyfish than corals. They get their energy from photosynthetic zooxanthellae in their tissues, but also from feeding on plankton.

Predators: Fireworms, certain nudibranchs and filefish

WARNING: Microscopic fire coral polyps are located throughout the surface of the hard skeleton. Each polyp has hair-like tentacles that are covered in stinging cells called nematocysts, which they use to paralyze their tiny prey. Fire corals cause a lingering, burning sensation when they contact bare skin. A rash or blistering may occur in some individuals and may last several days, but is not usually dangerous.

TREATMENT: Exit the water as soon as possible and rinse the affected area with vinegar or alcohol to inactivate the fire coral toxin. Do not rinse with fresh water, which can increase the pain by causing untriggered nematocysts to discharge into the skin. Apply hydrocortisone cream to the area once dry. The papain enzyme found in meat tenderizer and papaya can also reduce swelling, pain and itching.

K

256

ANGELFISH, SURGEONFISH

SPECIES

french angelfish

Pomacanthus paru

Maximum size: 24in (60cm)

Longevity: Up to 15 years

Typical depth: 10–330ft (3–100m)

Behavior: French angelfish dine primarily on sponges, but may also feed on gorgonians and algae. Juveniles often act as cleaners, eating the parasites from other reef fish. At dusk, French angelfish find shelter from nocturnal predators in reef cracks and crevices.

Predators: Large grouper and sharks

1

queen angelfish

Holacanthus ciliaris

Maximum size: 18in (45cm)

Longevity: Up to 15 years

Typical depth: 3–230ft (1–70m)

Behavior: Queen angelfish are often found swimming gracefully between seafans, sea whips and corals, alone or in pairs. They feed almost exclusively on sponges, but have been known to snack on algae and tunicates as well. Young Queen angelfish also clean parasites off larger fish.

Predators: Large grouper and sharks

2

rock beauty

Holacanthus tricolor

Maximum size: 14in (35cm)

Longevity: Up to 20 years (in captivity)

Typical depth: 10–115ft (3–35m)

Behavior: Adult rock beauties are often found on rock jetties, rocky reefs and rich coral areas, while juveniles tend to be found near fire corals. These angelfish are not picky eaters and will feed on tunicates, sponges, zoantharians and algae.

Predators: Grouper, snapper and sharks

3

blue tang

Acanthurus coeruleus

Maximum size: 16in (40cm)

Longevity: Around 20 years

Typical depth: 3–130ft (1–40m)

Behavior: Blue tangs are often found grazing on algae during the day, either individually or as part of large schools that may also contain surgeonfish, doctorfish, goatfish and parrotfish. At dusk, they settle into a reef crack or crevice to hide for the night.

Predators: Grouper, snapper, jacks and barracuda

4

257

SURGEONFISH, BUTTERFLYFISH

SPECIES

OCEAN SURGEONFISH

Acanthurus bahianus

Maximum size: 15in (38cm)

Longevity: Up to 32 years

Typical depth: 6–130ft (2–40m)

Behavior: Adult surgeonfish often form large schools to graze on benthic algae and seagrasses in shallow coral reefs and inshore rocky areas. Juveniles rarely school, sheltering instead in the back reef. Researchers have observed spawning aggregations of up to 20,000 individuals in the winter months off of Puerto Rico.

Predators: Sharks, grouper, barracuda and snapper

6

Doctorfish

ACANTHURUS CHIRUGUS

Maximum size: 15.5in (39cm)

Longevity: Up to 30 years

Typical depth: 6–213ft (2–65m)

Behavior: Doctorfish can be found in shallow, inshore reef habitats and rocky areas. They forage on benthic algae, including the thin algal mat covering sandy bottoms. They generally swim together in loose schools, often with ocean surgeonfish and blue tangs. They have sharp spines near their tail fin that they can use in defense against predators.

Predators: Large carnivorous fish, including tuna

5

banded butterflyfish

Chaetodon striatus

Maximum size: 6in (16cm)

Longevity: Unknown, but probably around 10 years

Typical depth: 10–60ft (3–20m)

Behavior: Banded butterflyfish are most active during the day when they search the reef for food, which includes polychaete worms, zoanthids, anemones and fish eggs. Banded butterflyfish are often found in monogamous pairs and they defend a joint territory together with their mate.

Predators: Moray eels and large carnivorous fish

7

FOUREYE BUTTERFLYFISH

Chaetodon capistratus

Maximum size: 6in (15cm)

Longevity: Around 8 years

Typical depth: 6–65ft (2–20m)

Behavior: Foureye butterflyfish are active during the day when they feed on small invertebrates. Their pointed mouth allows them to pull prey from small crevices. They are often found in pairs, and males and females bond early in life and form long-lasting monogamous pairs.

Predators: Barracuda, grouper, snapper and moray eels

8

258

DAMSELFISH, JAWFISH

SPECIES

blue chromis

Chromis cyanea

Maximum size: 5in (12cm)

Longevity: Unknown, possibly 5 years

Typical depth: 10–70ft (3–20m)

Behavior: Blue chromis gather in schools above the reef to feed on small plankton and jellyfish during the day. They hide in reef crevices at night. Territorial males defend egg nests in the spring and summer.

Predators: Trumpetfish, grouper and snapper

9

brown chromis

Chromis multilineata

Maximum size: 8in (20cm)

Longevity: Unknown, possibly 5 years

Typical depth: 3–300ft (1–91m)

Behavior: Brown chromis forage in medium-sized schools above the coral reef, feasting on plankton, mainly copepods. They are frequently seen schooling with blue chromis during the day, although their more territorial congeneric tends to chase them out from hiding places in the reef at night.

Predators: Trumpetfish, grouper and snapper

10

SERGEANT MAJOR

Abudefduf saxatilis

Maximum size: 9in (23cm)

Longevity: Unknown, possibly 5 years

Typical depth: 3–33ft (1–10m)

Behavior: Sergeant majors get their name from their telltale black bars that resemble military stripes. They are usually found in shallow water, typically along the tops of reefs, and often form large feeding schools of up to a few hundred individuals.

Predators: Grouper and jacks

11

yellowhead jawfish

Opistognathus aurifrons

Maximum size: 4in (10cm)

Longevity: Unknown, possibly up to 5 years

Typical depth: 10–131ft (3–40m)

Behavior: Jawfish live in burrows in the sediment that they line with stones and bits of crushed shell and coral. Active during the day, they often hover over their burrow and feed on zooplankton. They rarely move far from their burrow and often retreat tail-first when threatened.

Predators: Snapper, grouper and lionfish

12

259

WRASSES

SPECIES

bluehead wrasse

Thalassoma bifasciatum

Maximum size: 10in (25cm)

Longevity: 3 years

Typical depth: 0–131ft (0–40m)

Behavior: Bluehead wrasses can be found on reefs, near inshore bays and over seagrass beds feeding on zooplankton, small benthic animals and even parasites on other fish. They start life as female but eventually become males, gaining an unmistakable bright blue head in their terminal phase.

Predators: Grouper, trumpetfish and soapfish

14

rosy razorfish

Xyrichtys martinicensis

Maximum size: 6in (15cm)

Longevity: Around 3 years

Typical depth: 7–69ft (2–21m)

Behavior: Rosy razorfish are commonly found in open sandy areas near coral reefs. They are active during the day as they feed on small sand-dwelling invertebrates such as crabs, shrimp and worms. Large males often defend a harem of females within their territory.

Predators: Grouper, snapper, barracuda and dolphins

13

yellowhead wrasse

Halichoeres garnoti

Maximum size: 7in (19cm)

Longevity: Unknown, possibly between 3 and 5 years

Typical depth: 3–100ft (1–30m)

Behavior: Yellowhead wrasses are mainly found near coral reefs and rocky ledges. Adults feed on invertebrates while juveniles sometimes clean parasites off larger fish. Yellowhead wrasses are protogynous hermaphrodites, meaning they start life as female but become males at around 3in (7cm) in size.

Predators: Mackerel, grouper and snapper

15

Puddingwife

Halichoeres radiatus

Maximum size: 20in (51cm)

Longevity: 10 years or more

Typical depth: 6–180ft (2–55m)

Behavior: Puddingwives are commonly found on reefs, feeding on molluscs, sea urchins, crustaceans and brittle stars. Juveniles typically inhabit shallow coral reefs while adults also frequent deeper reefs. As with other wrasses, adults change color dramatically as they grow and reach terminal phase.

Predators: : Reef sharks, greater amberjacks and snapper

16

260

WRASSES, PARROTFISH

SPECIES

creole wrasse

Clepticus parrae

Maximum size: 12in (30cm)

Longevity: Unknown, but probably around 10 years

Typical depth: 26–328ft (8–100m)

Behavior: Creole wrasses are often found schooling in large numbers above bank reefs, wrecks and on the seaward slopes of reefs. They are most active during the day, when feeding on plankton and small jellyfish. At night, they retreat into reef crevices to sleep.

Predators: Moray eels, grouper and barracuda

17

spanish hogfish

Bodianus rufus

Maximum size: 16in (40cm)

Longevity: Unknown

Typical depth: 10–230ft (3–70m)

Behavior: Adult Spanish hogfish feed on bottom-dwelling invertebrates, such as brittlestars, crustaceans and sea urchins. Juveniles set up cleaning stations to pick parasites off larger fish. Male hogfish (who start out life as a female) typically manage a harem of three to 12 smaller females.

Predators: Sharks, mackerel and snapper

18

queen parrotfish

Scarus vetula

Maximum size: 24 in (61 cm)

Longevity: Up to 20 years

Typical depth: 10–80 ft (3–25 m)

Behavior: During the day, Queen parrotfish feed by scraping algae off rocks and dead coral using their tough, parrot-like beak. At night, Queen parrotfish secrete a membrane of mucus from a gland at the base of the gills which surrounds them like a bubble and masks their scent from nocturnal predators.

Predators: Grouper, eels and sharks

20

princess parrotfish

Scarus taeniopterus

Max size: 14in (35cm)

Longevity: Unknown, but probably less than 5 years

Typical depth: 3–82ft (1–25m)

Behavior: Princess parrotfish form large schools during the day to feed on plants, algae, sponges and seagrass. Juveniles are more closely associated with seagrass beds. They start out life as female, but can transition to male if no other large breeding males are around.

Predators: Sharks, grouper, jacks and moray eels

19

261

PARROTFISH

SPECIES

Stoplight parrotfish

Sparisoma viride

Maximum size: 25in (64cm)

Longevity: Around 9 years

Typical depth: 3–164ft (1–50m)

Behavior: Stoplight parrotfish are only active during the day. Their strong beak-like jaws scrape soft algae off the hard coral. They ingest some coral in the process, grinding it up with the help of specialized teeth in their throats and excreting it as coral sand.

Predators: Sharks, barracuda, grouper, snapper, jacks and moray eels

21

BLUE PARROTFISH

Scarus coeruleus

Maximum size: 4ft (1.2m)

Longevity: About 10 years

Typical depth: 10–82ft (3–25m)

Behavior: The blue parrotfish is easily identified by its prominent bulging snout and color, as it is the only blue parrotfish. It feeds during the day by biting off pieces of the reef in order to consume plants, algae and small organisms. This species can form large schools, particularly during spawning.

Predators: Large grouper, snapper, moray eels and barracuda

22

Midnight parrotfish

SCARUS COELESTINUS

Maximum size: 30in (77cm)

Longevity: Unknown, but possibly up to 10 years

Typical depth: 16–264ft (5–75m)

Behavior: Midnight parrotfish are among the larger parrotfish species in the Caribbean, and are recognizable for their dark blue-black coloration. They can often be spotted schooling with surgeonfish as they munch on algae-encrusted coral. They are typically associated with coral reefs and sport the telltale beak of all parrotfish.

Predators: Sharks, mackerel and jacks

23

Rainbow parrotfish

Scarus guacamaia

Maximum size: 4ft (1.2m)

Longevity: Around 10 years

Typical depth: 10–82ft (3–25m)

Behavior: The rainbow parrotfish is the largest herbivorous reef fish in the Caribbean. During the day, it feeds by biting off pieces of the reef in order to consume the plants, algae and small organisms contained within. Schooling may occur in areas where density is high.Predators: Large grouper, snapper, moray eels, sharks
and barracuda

24

262

GRUNTS, SNAPPER

SPECIES

black margate

Anisotremus surinamensis

Maximum size: 30in (76cm), 13lb (6kg)

Longevity: Unknown

Typical depth: 0–66ft (0–20m)

Behavior: Black margates can be found alone or in small groups. They are nocturnal, feeding on benthic crustaceans, molluscs, smaller fish and long-spined sea urchins at night. During the day, they can often be found under ledges and sheltering in caves or wrecks.

Predators: Sharks

25

GREY SNAPPER

Lutjanus griseus

Maximum size: 35in (90cm), 44lb (20kg)

Longevity: Around 20 years

Typical depth: 16–590ft (5–180m)

Behavior: Grey snappers are often found schooling, sometimes in large numbers. They feed mainly at night on a range of organisms, including shrimp, crabs, worms and small fishes, rarely moving far to feed.

Predators: Moray eels, sharks, large grouper
and barracuda

28

french grunt

Haemulon flavolineatum

Maximum size: 12in (30cm)

Longevity: Unknown, could be up to 12 years

Typical depth: 3–400ft (1–60m)

Behavior: French grunts form large schools on rocky and coral reefs. During the day, adults can often be found resting under ledges and near elkhorn coral. Juveniles spend the day hiding near the shore. French grunts are nocturnal and typically feed on small crustaceans, polychaetes and molluscs.

Predators: Grouper, snapper and trumpetfish

27

Caesar grunt

HAEMULON CARBONARIUM

Max size: 16in (40cm)

Longevity: Unknown, but possibly up to 10 years

Typical depth: 10–82ft (3–25m)

Behavior: Caesar grunts are often found in schools near artificial reefs and over rocky reefs. Like most grunts, they are nocturnal feeders, munching on polychaetes, gastropods and small crustaceans. During the day, they form loose schools under overhangs. Unlike other grunts, however, juveniles settle on shallow reefs and not near mangroves or seagrass beds.

Predators: Sharks, grouper, jacks and moray eels

26

263

SNAPPER

SPECIES

mahogany snapper

Lutjanus mahogoni

Maximum size: 19in (48cm)

Longevity: Around 20 years

Typical depth: 3–330ft (1–100m)

Behavior: This smaller snapper forms large schools during the day, typically in shallower waters over coral reefs. At night, mahogany snapper feed on small fish, shrimp, crabs and cephalopods. They frequent warmer waters and only stray into temperate climates during the heat of summer.

Predators: Sharks, mackerel and other snapper

29

schoolmaster snapper

Lutjanus apodus

Maximum size: 26in (67cm)

Longevity: Up to 42 years

Typical depth: 6–207ft (2–63m)

Behavior: Schoolmaster snapper are found in shallow coastal waters in coral reefs and mangrove habitats – adults are often associated with elkhorn corals while younger individuals sometimes enter brackish waters. They feed on crustaceans and cephalopods, although adults also show a preference for fish once their mouth can open wide enough to catch them.

Predators: Sharks, barracuda and grouper

30

yellowtail snapper

Ocyurus chrysurus

Maximum size: 34in (86cm), 9lb (4kg)

Longevity: Around 13 to 17 years

Typical depth: 3–541ft (1–165m)

Behavior: Yellowtail snapper are typically associated with coral reefs in coastal waters from the U.S. state of Massachusetts, down to the coast of Brazil. They often form schools above reefs and are less commonly seen along the seafloor. They eat plankton and small benthic organisms.

Predators: Sharks, barracuda, mackerel, snapper and grouper

32

Cubera snapper

Lutjanus cyanopterus

Maximum size: 5ft (1.6m); 126lbs (57kg)

Longevity: 20 years, but possibly up to 50 years

Typical depth: 3–280ft (1–85m)

Behavior: Cubera snapper are the biggest of the Atlantic snapper species. Adults are often seen alone on deeper reefs and wrecks, while juveniles are generally in shallower water near vegetation, including estuaries. Cubera snapper feed on fish as well as crustaceans, such as shrimp, crabs and lobster. Large individuals are rarely removed from the water when caught on fishing lines, due to concerns about ciguatera poisoning.

Predators: Sharks, large grouper, barracuda and mackerel

31

264

HOLOCENTRIDS, GOBIES

SPECIES

glasseye snapper

Heteropriacanthus cruentatus

Maximum size: 20in (51cm)

Longevity: Unknown

Typical depth: 10–115ft (3–35m)

Behavior: Glasseye snapper are secretive fish, hiding alone or in small groups in holes and crevices during the day. At night, they exit their shelters to feed on octopuses, pelagic shrimp, crabs, small fishes and polychaete worms. They sometimes form larger schools at dusk.

Predators: Sharks, tuna, grouper and mahi mahi

33

glassy sweeper

Pempheris schomburgkii

Maximum size: 6in (15cm)

Longevity: Unknown

Typical depth: 10–98ft (3–30m)

Behavior: The nocturnal glassy sweeper is a small fish that feeds on zooplankton and small crustaceans in the water above the reef. During the day, it shelters in groups, hiding in reef crevices and caves. Juveniles are nearly transparent – likely the origin of their name.

Predators: Rays and grouper

34

cleaning goby

Elacatinus genie

Maximum size: 2in (4cm)

Longevity: 3 to 5 years

Typical depth: 3–98ft (1–30m)

Behavior: As their name suggests, cleaning gobies clean other reef creatures by removing their parasites. This behavior is a form of symbiosis known as mutualism, where both parties benefit. The client fish get rid of their ectoparasites, while the cleaners get an easy meal.

Predators: Grouper, snapper and moray eels

36

blackbar soldierfish

Myripristis jacobus

Maximum size: 10in (25cm)

Longevity: Unknown

Typical depth: 7–115ft (2–35m)

Behavior: Blackbar soldierfish are nocturnal, often hiding in caves and crevices during the day. They congregate around coral and rocky reefs at night to feed on plankton and invertebrates. They most commonly occur on shallow inshore reefs, but can be found at depths of 330ft (100m).

Predators: Snapper, grouper, jacks and trumpetfish

35

265

BLENNIES, GOATFISH

SPECIES

redlip blenny

Ophioblennius atlanticus

Maximum size: 7in (19cm)

Longevity: Around 2 years

Typical depth: 0–27ft (0–8m)

Behavior: Redlip blennies are common in shallow reef areas with relatively high wave action. Their body shape and modified fins let them “hold on” to the reef. They are herbivorous and territorial, defending a patch of algae during the day and hiding in the reef at night.

Predators: Grouper, snapper and trumpetfish

37

Sailfin blenny

Emblemaria pandionis

Maximum size: 2in (6cm)

Longevity: Possibly around 2 years

Typical depth: 3–35ft (1–12m)

Behavior: Sailfin blennies get their name from the large dorsal fin that they can raise over their head like a sail. The fin is larger on males, who use it for territorial and courtship displays. Sailfin blennies live in holes in the reef and coral rubble; they feed on small plankton and invertebrates.

Predators: Many carnivores on the reef, including squid

38

Spotted goatfish

PSEUDUPENEUS MACULATUS

Maximum size: 12in (30cm)

Longevity: At least 7 years

Typical depth: 0–115ft (0–35m)

Behavior: Spotted goatfish are most often encountered in shallow water over rocky or sandy habitat near reefs. They feed on bottom-dwelling crabs, shrimp and small fish. Spotted goatfish are easily recognizable by the three dark blotches along their back and the telltale barbels they use to stir up the sand when they hunt.

Predators: Sharks, snapper and jacks

39

yellow goatfish

Mulloidichthys martinicus

Maximum size: 15in (39cm)

Longevity: Unknown

Typical depth: 0–115ft (0–35m)

Behavior: Yellow goatfish are commonly found swimming in large schools over sandy bottoms. They use their long, sensitive barbels to locate polychaete worms, clams, isopods, amphipods and other crustaceans in the sand. When not feeding, they are often found in groups, sheltering in the reef.

Predators: Sharks, tuna, mahi mahi, grouper and jacks

40

266

BENTHICS, EELS

SPECIES

PEACOCK FLOUNDER

Bothus lunatus

Maximum size: 18in (46cm)

Longevity: Up to 10 years

Typical depth: 0–66ft (0–20m)

Behavior: Peacock flounders are usually found partially buried in loose sand near coral reefs, mangroves and seagrass beds. They are the most common flounders around coral reefs, and mainly feed on small fishes, but also crustaceans and small octopuses.

Predators: Sharks and snapper

43

SAND TILEFISH

Malacanthus plumieri

Maximum size: 28in (70cm)

Longevity: Unknown, but potentially as much as 40 years

Typical depth: 33–164ft (10–50m)

Behavior: Sand tilefish build tunnels and mounds in the sand- and rubble-bottomed areas near reefs and seagrass beds. Tunnel entrances can reach 10ft (3m) in diameter and the mounds are built out of the sand, coral rubble and shell fragments found during excavation.

Predators: Sharks and snapper

42

LONGLURE FROGFISH

Antennarius multiocellatus

Maximum size: 8in (20cm)

Longevity: Unknown, but probably around 10 years

Typical depth: 0–215ft (0–66m)

Behavior: The longlure frogfish is a bottom-dwelling fish that can change color and texture to blend in with its surroundings. It is an ambush predator, feeding mainly on other fish and crustaceans. Frogfish have one of the fastest attacks in the animal kingdom.

Predators: Moray eels and other frogfish

41

BROWN GARDEN EEL

Heteroconger longissimus

Maximum size: 20in (50cm)

Longevity: Unknown

Typical depth: 33–197ft (10–60m)

Behavior: Brown garden eels live in burrows in sandy areas near coral reefs, feeding mainly on plankton that drift by in the current. Individuals rarely leave the safety of their burrows, remaining partially buried with their heads poking out from the sand. They retreat backwards into their burrow when threatened.

Predators: Snake eels and triggerfish

44

267

EELS, DRUMS, FILEFISH

SPECIES

GOLDENTAIL MORAY EEL

Gymnothorax miliaris

Maximum size: 28in (70cm)

Longevity: Unknown

Typical depth: 0–115ft (0–35m)

Behavior: Goldentail moray eels are common in the Caribbean, living alone in holes and crevices in coral reefs. Unlike other types of morays, goldentails are most active during the day. They feed on fish, molluscs and crustaceans.

Predators: Grouper

45

SPOTTED MORAY EEL

Gymnothorax moringa

Maximum size: 3.3ft (1m), 6lbs (2.5kg)

Longevity: Around 10 years, but possibly up to 30 years

Typical depth: 0–656ft (0–200m)

Behavior: Spotted moray eels are most active at night, when they hunt for a wide variety of prey, including parrotfish, grunts, trumpetfish, crustaceans and molluscs. During the day, they are often seen with their head sticking out of a reef hole or crevice.

Predators: Dog snapper and Nassau grouper

46

spotted drum

Equetus punctatus

Maximum size: 11in (27cm)

Longevity: Unknown, but probably around 10 years

Typical depth: 10–98ft (3–30m)

Behavior: Spotted drums are found under ledges, jetties and near small caves during the day. They are solitary and mostly active at night, when they hunt for crabs, shrimp and worms. Drums can emit a drumming sound when they feel threatened, which is the origin of their name.

Predators: Moray eels, grouper and barracuda

47

scrawled filefish

Aluterus scriptus

Maximum size: 43in (110cm), 5.5lbs (2.5kg)

Longevity: Unknown

Typical depth: 10–394ft (3–120m)

Behavior: Scrawled filefish are commonly found on off shore reefs. They are active during the day, feeding on algae, seagrass, hydrozoans, soft corals and anemones. Juveniles sometimes drift with sargassum mats, explaining how this species is found throughout the tropics, and on many non-tropical reefs.

Predators: Barracuda, mahi mahi and large tuna

48

268

FILEFISH, TRIGGERFISH, TRUMPETFISH, BOXFISH

SPECIES

slender filefish

Monacanthus tuckeri

Maximum size: 4in (10cm)

Longevity: Unknown

Typical depth: 7–165ft (2–50m)

Behavior: Slender filefish are almost always found hiding among the branches of gorgonians. During the day, they feed on worms, crabs and zooplankton. At night, they wedge themselves into soft coral with their dorsal spine and stomach appendage, sometimes biting down on a coral polyp while sleeping.

Predators: Grouper and barracuda

49

black durgon

Melichthys niger

Maximum size: 20in (50cm)

Longevity: Around 5 years

Typical depth: 0–246ft (0–75m)

Behavior: The black durgon is most common on outer bank reef crests, particularly near drop offs, where they form loose aggregations of as many as 200 individuals. They feed on plant and animal plankton that drift in the water, as well as on reef algae.

Predators: Large grouper, snapper, moray eels and barracuda

50

ATLANTIC TRUMPETFISH

Aulostomus maculatus

Maximum size: 3ft (1m)

Longevity: Unknown, but likely around 10 years

Typical depth: 6–82ft (2–25m)

Behavior: Trumpetfish are often found camouflaged within the branches of gorgonian corals. They are generally ambush predators that consume small or juvenile reef fish and crustaceans. As known shadow-feeders, they sometimes stalk their prey while swimming alongside other reef fish, using them as cover.

Predators: Grouper, snapper and moray eels

51

HONEYCOMB COWFISH

Acanthostracion polygonius

Maximum size: 20in (50cm)

Longevity: Unknown

Typical depth: 7–262ft (2–80m)

Behavior: Honeycomb cowfish are protected by hexagon scales that form a rigid carapace over much of their bodies. They are relatively slow and wary, which makes their external armor an essential defense against potential predators. They usually forage alone, feeding on sponges, tunicates and shrimp.

Predators: Sharks

52

269

BOXFISH, BLOWFISH, PUFFERFISH, GROUPER

SPECIES

Smooth trunkfish

LACTOPHRYS TRIQUETER

Maximum size: 18.5in (47cm)

Longevity: Unknown

Typical depth: 0–164ft (0–50m)

Behavior: Smooth trunkfish are easily recognized by their black mouth and white-spotted, triangular, shape. They are slow, relying on their armor and toxins for protection. They are easily approached and are often seen hunting bottom invertebrates by jetting water from their mouths to shift sand and locate their prey.

Predators: Mahi mahi, cobia and large carnivorous fish

53

porcupinefish

Diodon hystrix

Maximum size: 35in (90cm)

Longevity: Up to 10 years

Typical depth: 7–164ft (2–50m)

Behavior: Porcupinefish are solitary nocturnal predators that feed on snails, crabs and sea urchins. During the day, they are often found sheltering in reef caves or crevices. They can inflate their bodies up to twice their normal size by drawing in water or air.

Predators: Dolphins, and large pelagic fish such as sharks and tuna

54

coney

Cephalopholis fulva

Maximum size: 17in (43cm)

Longevity: 11 years, possibly as much as 19 years

Typical depth: 3–148ft (1–45m)

Behavior: Coneys hide in caves and crevices in the reef during the day, venturing out at night to forage for small reef fish and crustaceans. They are approachable but wary, and the males are territorial. They start out as female, becoming male at around 8in (20cm).

Predators: Sharks, grouper and snapper

56

CARIBBEAN SHARPNOSE PUFFER

Canthigaster rostrata

Maximum size: 5in (12cm)

Longevity: Unknown, but possibly up to 10 years

Typical depth: 3–130ft (1–40m)

Behavior: Sharpnose puffers prefer reefs where gorgonian corals are common. They are most active during the day as they search for small reef invertebrates such as crabs, shrimp, worms and snails. They are territorial, so if you happen to see two individuals near one another, they may be engaged in defensive displays.

Predators: Grouper, snapper, barracuda and moray eels

55

270

GROUPER

SPECIES

graysby

Cephalopholis cruentata

Maximum size: 16in (40 cm)

Longevity: Approximately 12 years

Typical depth: 7–561ft (2–170m)

Behavior: Graysbies are found in reef areas that contain caves, crevices or hollow sponges where they hide during the day. At night, they hunt for reef fish, such as chromis, squirrelfish, gobies and crustaceans. Some individuals hunt alongside moray eels at night.

Predators: Barracuda, sharks and larger grouper

57

Black gouper

MYCTEROPERCA BONACI

Maximum size: 5ft (1.5m), 220lbs (100kg)

Longevity: More than 30 years

Typical depth: 19–246ft (6–75m)

Behavior: Black grouper are abundant in Florida waters but rarely seen. They tend to shy away from swimmers. Commercially fished in many places, their populations are generally declining as a result. They are solitary except when they congregate to spawn. Adults feed on smaller reef fish such as grunts and snapper.

Predators: Sharks

59

Tiger grouper

Mycteroperca tigris

Maximum size: 3ft (1m)

Longevity: Up to 40 years

Typical depth: 33–130ft (10–40m)

Behavior: A solitary ambush predator, tiger grouper are easily identified by the tiger stripes that run from the dorsal fin down either side of the fish. They vary in color from black, red, tan and yellow. They feed on a variety of fish, including grunts, parrotfish, croakers, angelfish and damselfish. A hermaphroditic species, smaller individuals are females while larger fish are males. Predators: Sharks, large grouper and mackerel

58

Greater soapfish

Rypticus saponaceus

Maximum size: 14in (35cm)

Longevity: Up to 6 years

Typical depth: 6–115ft (2–35m)

Behavior: Soapfish are solitary, nocturnal fish that feed on crustaceans and small fish. They are often seen hiding at the base of corals and in crevices in the reef. They secrete a toxic mucus as a deterrent to predators. The mucus covers their bodies and lathers up to a soapy foam when the fish is disturbed, hence the name soapfish.

Predators: Sharks and eagle rays

60

271

GROUPER, BASSLETS, CHUBS

SPECIES

Creole-fish

Paranthias furcifer

Maximum size: 12in (30cm)

Longevity: Around 5 years

Typical depth: 26–330ft (8–100m)

Behavior: Creole-fish are typically found on deeper reefs. They can be solitary or form schools above coral reefs and other rocky areas where they feed on zooplankton and crustaceans. Their schools sometimes include damselfish, and they are often skittish, retreating quickly into the reef when startled. Adults vary in color, sometimes appearing bright red, but most often they are grey.

Predators: Sharks, snapper, porgy and larger grouper

61

barred hamlet

Hypoplectrus puella

Maximum size: 6in (15cm)

Longevity: Unknown

Typical depth: 10–75ft (3–23m)

Behavior: Hamlets are often found on the seaward side of reefs. They feed during the day on crustaceans, particularly shrimp and crabs, and occasionally small fish. Hamlets are fiercely territorial, and are often observed fighting with members of their own species.

Predators: Grouper, snapper, jacks and barracuda

62

fairy basslet

Gramma loreto

Maximum size: 3in (8cm)

Longevity: Around 6 years, but up to 12 years

Typical depth: 3–180ft (1–60m)

Behavior: Fairy basslets are often found on reef walls that are full of caves and ledges. They are most active during the day, feeding mainly on crustaceans – although they occasionally act as a cleaner fish. At night, they retreat into the safety of a familiar reef shelter.

Predators: Snapper, grouper and moray eels

63

BERMUDA CHUB

Kyphosus sectatrix

Maximum size: 30in (76cm), 13lbs (6kg)

Longevity: Unknown

Typical depth: 3–330ft (1–10m)

Behavior: Bermuda chub are a schooling fish found in shallow waters above sandy areas, seagrass beds and near coral reefs. They feed on benthic algae, but also on small crabs and molluscs. Juveniles often associate with floating sargassum mats, letting them disperse across great distances.

Predators: Sharks, barracuda, snapper, moray eels and scorpionfish

64

272

JACKS

SPECIES

bar jack

Caranx ruber

Maximum size: 23in (59cm)

Longevity: Unknown, possibly up to 30 years

Typical depth: 3–330ft (1–100m)

Behavior: Bar jacks sometimes swim alone, but are usually found schooling in shallow, clear water near coral reefs. They feed on fish, shrimp and other invertebrates. They are the most abundant species of jack in the Caribbean, and are easily approached by divers.

Predators: Grouper, mackerel, mahi mahi and large jacks

65

horse-eye jack

Caranx latus

Maximum size: 3ft (1m), 29lbs (13kg)

Longevity: Unknown

Typical depth: 3–66ft (0–20m)

Behavior: Horse-eye jacks are schooling pelagic fish that frequent the waters above off shore reefs, although juveniles are often seen inshore along sandy beaches. Adults feed on fish, shrimp and other invertebrates. They often approach divers boldly, but without posing much of a threat.

Predators: Sharks, barracuda and mahi mahi

66

Rainbow runner

Elagatis bipinnulata

Maximum size: 6ft (1.8m), 102lbs (56kg)

Longevity: Up to 6 years

Typical depth: 6–33ft (2–10m)

Behavior: Rainbow runners are one of the larger members of the jack family, and they are found near the surface of the water over reefs . Though they can get quite large, individuals measuring 2–3ft (60–90cm) are more common. Rainbow runners can form large schools, where they feed on invertebrates and small fish.

Predators: Sharks and tuna

67

PALOMETA / GREAT POMPANO

Trachinotus goodei

Maximum size: 20in (50cm)

Longevity: Unknown

Typical depth: 0–40ft (0–12m)

Behavior: Adult palometa tend to form schools over shallow coral reefs. Juveniles, meanwhile, are more common over sand and rubble habitat. They are most active during the day, feeding on crustaceans, worms, molluscs and fish.

Predators: Sharks and barracuda

68

273

PELAGICS, RAYS, SHARKS

SPECIES

SPOTTED EAGLE RAY

Aetobatus narinari

Maximum size: 10ft (3m) disc width, 500lb (230kg)

Longevity: Up to 20 years

Typical depth: 3–260ft (1–80m)

Behavior: Spotted eagle rays are carnivores that specialize in eating hard-shelled prey such as conch, clams, crabs and lobsters. They sometimes eat octopuses and fish as well, and are often found over sand habitat. They have electro-receptors in their snout to help search for buried prey.

Predators: Tiger, bull, lemon and hammerhead sharks

71

TARPON

Megalops atlanticus

Maximum size: 8ft (2.5m), 330lb (150kg)

Longevity: Around 50 years

Typical depth: 3–330ft (0–100m)

Behavior: Tarpon frequent both marine and freshwater ecosystems, from Canada in the north to Brazil in the south. They can feed during both the day and the night on a range of fish and crustaceans. Tarpon have relatively small teeth and tend to swallow their prey whole.

Predators: Sharks and dolphins

70

CERO

Scomberomorus regalis

Maximum size: 6ft (1.8m)

Longevity: Unknown

Typical depth: 3–66ft (1–20m)

Behavior: A member of the mackerel family, the cero is typically found swimming in open water near coral reefs, occasionally in schools. Ceros eat smaller fish, including herring, anchovies and silversides, along with squid and shrimp. They are considered a good game fish.

Predators: Sharks, tuna, marlin, king mackerel and wahoo

69

NURSE SHARK

Ginglymostoma cirratum

Maximum size: 14ft (4.3m), 242lbs (110kg)

Longevity: Up to 25 years

Typical depth: 0–430ft (0–130 m)

Behavior: Nurse sharks are large nocturnal reef predators. At night, they search for hard-shelled prey, such as lobsters, crabs and conch, which they consume with their specially designed jaws. During the day, they are often found resting in caves or beneath coral overhangs.

Predators: Larger shark species

72

274

SEAHORSES, CRUSTACEANS

SPECIES

PEDERSON CLEANER SHRIMP

Ancylomenes pedersoni

Maximum size: 1in (3cm)

Longevity: Unknown

Typical depth: 3–115ft (1–35m)

Behavior: Pederson cleaner shrimp pick parasites off reef fish. They are found in close association with sea anemones, which help advertise the shrimp’s cleaning services and provide shelter. The anemone’s stinging tentacles ward off predators but do not sting its resident cleaner shrimp, which can number up to a dozen.

Predators: Unknown

74

LONGSNOUT SEAHORSE

Hippocampus reidi

Maximum size: 7in (18cm) with tail outstretched

Longevity: Unknown, but probably at least 4 to 5 years

Typical depth: 3–55m (10–180ft)

Behavior: Seahorses are rare throughout the Caribbean. They prefer shallow reef areas. They are often seen clinging to seagrass, macroalgae, gorgonians and sponges with their prehensile tails, while they feed on zooplankton, mysid shrimp and small crustaceans.

Predators: Rays, turtles and crabs

73

YELLOWLINE ARROW CRAB

Stenorhynchus seticornis

Maximum size: 2in (6cm)

Longevity: Around 5 years

Typical depth: 10–130ft (3–40m)

Behavior: Yellowline arrow crabs are small spider-like creatures with triangular bodies and small purple claws. They are often found inside tube sponges, and among the tentacles of anemones and spines of sea urchins. At night, they forage for algae, detritus, tube worms and bristleworms.

Predators: Grouper, puffers, triggerfish, wrasses and grunts

75

CARIBBEAN SPINY LOBSTER

Panulirus argus

Maximum size: 18in (45cm)

Longevity: Around 20 years

Typical depth: 0–295ft (0–90m)

Behavior: Caribbean spiny lobsters like to hide in reef caves and crevices during the day. At night, they roam the reef searching for snails, clams, crabs and dead and decaying organisms to eat. They undergo seasonal mass migrations in the fall, marching in single-file towards deeper water.

Predators: Sharks, stingrays, grouper, triggerfish and moray eels

76

275

CEPHALOPODS, GASTROPODS

SPECIES

CARIBBEAN REEF OCTOPUS

Octopus briareus

Maximum size: 39in (1m) with arms spread, 3 (lbs (1.5kg)

Longevity: Less than 2 years

Typical depth: 13–82ft (4–25m)

Behavior: Caribbean reef octopuses like to hide in reef caves and crevices during the day. They are masters of camouflage and incredibly hard to spot, since they can change their color, texture and shape. They are most active at night, hunting for crustaceans, clams, snails and small fish.

Predators: Grouper, snapper, nurse sharks and moray eels

77

QUEEN CONCH

Strombus gigas

Maximum size: 12in (30cm)

Longevity: Up to 30 years

Typical depth: 3–98ft (1–30m)

Behavior: Queen conch are the world’s largest marine snail. They are found mainly on sandy reef areas and seagrass beds, where they graze on algae and detritus. They are most active at night, and when threatened, can retreat into their shells for protection.

Predators: Nurse sharks, spotted eagle rays and stingrays

80

FLAMINGO TONGUE

Cyphoma gibbosum

Maximum size: 2in (4cm)

Longevity: Unknown, but likely 2 years

Typical depth: 6–45ft (2–14m)

Behavior: Flamingo tongues are a reef gastropod (marine snail) almost always found feeding on sea fans, sea whips and other gorgonians. The flesh of the gorgonians they eat contains toxic chemicals that the flamingo tongue converts into its own predator-deterring toxins.

Predators: Hogfish

79

CARIBBEAN REEF SQUID

Sepioteuthis sepioidea

Maximum size: 8in (20cm)

Longevity: Around 1 year

Typical depth: 0–98ft (0–30m)

Behavior: Caribbean reef squid are often found in small schools. They capture food in their 10 arms, feeding mainly on small fishes, as well as crustaceans and other molluscs. They have the largest eyes relative to body size of any animal, and they track their food by sight.

Predators: Grouper, snapper and barracuda

78

276

ANEMONES, CORALS, SPONGES

SPECIES

GIANT ANEMONE

Condylactis gigantea

Maximum size: 12in (30cm)

Longevity: Around 75 years

Typical depth: 3–82ft (1–25m)

Behavior: Giant anemones come in a variety of colors, from white to dark brown, sometimes with pink or purple-tipped tentacles. Some individuals have stinging tentacles that they use to paralyze and capture fish, shrimp and worms. Anemones typically attach to the reef, but are also capable of crawling.

Predators: Hermit crabs, snails and sea slugs

81

Staghorn coral

Acropora cervicornis

Maximum size: 8ft (2.5m)

Longevity: Individual polyps live 2-3 yrs but colonies can live for centuries

Typical depth: 3–164ft (1–50m)

Behavior: Staghorn corals are usually found in calm back reef areas with clear water. They provide important habitat for a range of different coral reef organisms. The coral polyps feed at night while the zooxanthellae in their tissue photosynthesize during the day. Staghorn coral is the fastest growing coral species in the Western Atlantic.

Predators: Some worm and snail species. The biggest threat is from disease.

82

Elkhorn coral

Acropora palmata

Maximum size: 12ft (3.5m)

Longevity: Individual polyps live 2-3yrs but colonies can live for centuries

Typical depth: 3–65ft (1–20m)

Behavior: Elkhorn corals are an important reef-building coral species, producing many large branches that coral reef organisms use as habitat. Elkhorn coral is often found in areas of moderate to high current and wave action. The coral polyps feed at night while the zooxanthellae in their tissue photosynthesize during the day.

Predators: Some worm and snail species. The biggest threat is from disease.

83

Orange elephant ear sponge

Agelas clathrodes

Maximum size: 6ft (1.8m)

Longevity: 2,000 years or more

Typical depth: 35–130ft (12–40m)

Behavior: Named for their resemblance to the ear of an elephant, these large sponges are easily spotted in deeper waters on the reef thanks to their bright coloration and large size. It can take different forms, including a thick encrusting form, or lobed and/or ridged forms. Like other sponges, they feed by filtering food particles from the surrounding water.

Predators: Sea turtles, crabs, parrotfish, slugs and many other sea creatures

84

277

Planning a dive in Bonaire?

After reading about the sites in this guidebook, check out our waterproof guides. You can take them into the water with you to ensure you get the most out of your diving experience.

Ian Popple/Reef Smart ©

278

Born and raised in the U.K., Ian earned his undergraduate degree in Oceanography from the University of Plymouth in 1994. He worked for five years at Bellairs Research Institute in Barbados, supporting research projects across the region, before completing his Master’s in marine biology at McGill University in 2004. He co-founded a marine biology education
company, Beautiful Oceans, before founding Reef Smart in 2015, to raise awareness and encourage people to explore the underwater world. Ian has published in both the scientific and mainstream media, including National Geographic, Scuba Diver Magazine and the Globe and Mail. He is a PADI Dive Master with over 3,000 dives in 25 years of diving experience.

Ian POPPLE
ian.popple@reef-smart.com

Born and raised in Romania, Otto graduated from the University of Art and Design in Cluj, Romania in 1991. He moved to Canada in 1999 where he studied Film Animation at Concordia University in Montreal. In 2006, Otto turned to underwater cartography and pioneered new techniques in 3D visual mapping. He co-founded Art to Media and began mapping underwater habitats around
the world. Throughout his 25-year career, Otto has received numerous awards and international recognition for his work, including the Prize of Excellence in Design from the Salon International du Design de Montréal. He has also illustrated seven books. Otto is a PADI Advanced Diver with over 500 dives in 15 years of diving experience.

Otto WAGNER
otto.wagner@reef-smart.com

Born and raised in Canada, Peter received his undergraduate and Master’s degrees from McGill University. His focus on behavioral ecology and coral reef ecology led him to two field seasons at Bellairs Research Institute in Barbados, in 1999 and again in 2002. After graduating in 2003, Peter moved to the United States and began a
career in science communication and writing, publishing in both peer-reviewed academic journals and the popular press. He has written on a variety of coastal ecosystem issues, including extensive work surrounding the science of ocean acidification. He is a PADI Rescue Diver with over 300 dives in 19 years of experience.

Peter McDOUGALL
peter.mcdougall@reef-smart.com

ABOUT THE AUTHORS

FLORIDA

279

280

ebooks available on Amazon