Contents

Plan Your Trip

The Journey Begins Here

Our Picks

Three Perfect Days

Get Prepared

When To Go

Getting There

Getting Around

A Few Surprises

Explore Athens

Acropolis Area

Monastiraki & Psyrri

Syntagma & Plaka

Kolonaki & Ilisia

Pangrati & Mets

Exarhia, Omonia & Kypseli

Filopappou Hill, Thisio & Petralona

Keramikos, Gazi & Metaxourgio

Top Experiences

Acropolis

Acropolis Museum

Ancient Agora

Benaki Museum of Greek Culture

Temple of Olympian Zeus

National Archaeological Museum

Filopappou Hill

Kerameikos

Worth a Trip

Athens Riviera

Temple of Poseidon at Sounion

Attica Wineries

Athens Toolkit

Family Travel

Accommodation

Food, Drink & Nightlife

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Health & Safe Travel

Responsible Travel

Accessible Travel

Nuts & Bolts

Language

This Book

The Journey Begins Here

I love Athens in the early morning. I go out walking during those quiet initial hours when the stores are just opening, the views are unobstructed and the air is cool. As the day heats up, along with the action, I visit elegant museums, thrumming shopping streets and lush, green oases, all surrounding that inspiring sentinel, the Acropolis. As night falls, the city’s streets fill again for fun, and its time to choose between vibrant cafe-bars – so many neighbourhoods, so many styles – and cheap eats or world-class restaurants.

Yiasemi, Plaka | TITO SLACK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Alexis Averbuck

alexisaverbuck.com

Alexis paints and writes about her adventures – from living in Antarctica for a year to crossing the Pacific by sailboat – for Lonely Planet, National Geographic UK and other international outlets.

THE BEST

Food & Wine Experiences

Eating, drinking and talking are Athenians’ most common entertainments. The vibrant restaurant scene showcases fresh produce and regional ingredients. Add in a culture of convivial alfresco dining, and no wonder meals last for hours.

SONGQUAN DENG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Explore Athens Central Market (pictured) and its spice-laden streets before lunching at deli Karamanlidika tou Fani.

IVOTHEEDITORS/ISTOCK ©

Enjoy delicious vegan fare at Koukaki restaurants like Mama Tierra, then learn how to cook Greek food vegan-style at Soybird.

Nibble on fresh-baked treats as you hop between Pangrati’s leafy squares, then dine at high-concept Mavro Provato or Soil.

VIVA EL GATO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Listen to live local music paired with traditional Greek specialities at Perivoli tou Ouranou or Stamatopoulos.

Mix your street food with street art at the former tram depot in Gazi during Athens Street Food Festival (pictured) events.

Go wine tasting in the rich vineyards of Attica, surrounding Athens, trying new-wave Greek wines directly with the producers.

THE BEST

Nightlife Experiences

In Athens most cafe-bars segue from coffee to drinks, with maybe music and a DJ, at night. There’s often food, too. So pick your neighbourhood and an ongoing bar crawl is yours.

Noel | AERIAL-MOTION/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Party in the sky on rooftop bars like GB Roof Garden and Couleur Locale, where the Acropolis looks close enough to touch.

MATTEO COLOMBO/GETTY IMAGES ©

Get happily lost in the crisscrossing streets of Psyrri and Monastiraki at bars like TAF and Norman.

Chill, Pangrati-style, at Chelsea Hotel, reading by day and having a cocktail by night.

LONELY PLANET ©

Settle into a vintage space, hidden in a Syntagma arcade: try Galaxy Bar or nearby Bartesera.

Roam from Metaxourgio’s Blue Parrot to Gazi’s mashup of bars like MoMix and BeQueer.

Cruise the streets around Plateia Agia Irini from indoor-outdoor Six d.o.g.s. (pictured) to glowing Noel and boho Booze Cooperativa.

THE BEST

Monumental Experiences

Without a doubt, Athens’ top draw is its ancient ruins and many, many patches of hallowed ground. Scratch the surface of any street and a remnant of historic cultures is near.

Temple of Poseidon at Sounion | ANASTASIOS71/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The Acropolis (pictured) is a must for Athens first-timers, with its theatre-birthing slopes, temple-topped mount and spectacular museum.

SCOTT E BARBOUR/GETTY IMAGES ©

Discover Ancient Athens’ civic heart at the Ancient Agora, hub of commercial, political and social activity.

Combine Roman ruins with Acropolis views atop Filopappou Hill, and visit the Church of Agios Dimitrios Loumbardiaris at its base.

ARTMEDIAFACTORY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

See the historic starting point of the Panathenaic Procession at Kerameikos, the city’s ancient burial ground.

Ogle colossal columns at the Temple of Olympian Zeus alongside Hadrian’s Arch (pictured), a hop from the Panathenaic Stadium.

Make the pretty seaside journey down the Athens Riviera to Temple of Poseidon at Sounion.

THE BEST

Museum Experiences

Blockbuster museums accompany many ancient sites, of course, but a city this old has many more layers of history and art – a seemingly endless pleasure for culture lovers.

Don’t miss the world’s best collection of ancient Greek art and sculpture at the National Archaeological Museum (pictured).

SAIKO3P/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Discover top international art in gorgeous galleries at Pangrati’s Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation.

Get a combo ticket for all of the Benaki Museum of Greek Culture’s excellent sites, like the artist’s studio at Ghika Gallery.

COINUP/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Connect ancient and modern at the Museum of Cycladic Art, which features mysterious minimalist sculptures that inspired Modigliani.

Debate whether they’re art or religion among gold-encrusted works in the Byzantine & Christian Museum (pictured).

Tour the history of modern Greek painting at the sparkling National Gallery.

THE BEST

Shopping Experiences

Central Athens’ commercial districts are one big shopping hub, with an eclectic mix of stores, often still organised roughly by category – lace and buttons on one block, light bulbs on the next.

Antique shop, Monastiraki | JEKATARINKA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Revel in Monastiraki’s shopping riches, from Plateia Avyssinias to Yiannis Samouelian.

Cruise Plaka for smart souvenirs and cool design items with a Hellenic twist at Forget Me Not and Flâneur.

Spread the worry-bead habit with a set from Kombologadiko or pick up products featuring the miracle mastic resin at Kolonaki’s Mastiha Shop.

Sample and buy organic and sustainably made bath and beauty products from Greek brands Korres, Apivita and The Naxos Apothecary.

Support creative artisans in Koukaki, buying fibre crafts, jewellery and fashion design.

Shop for art in Kolonaki, spanning the popular at Zoumboulakis Gallery to new-wave at Callirrhoë.

THE BEST

Entertainment Experiences

Athens’ arts and music scene depends largely on the season: many big halls and theatres close or scale back programming in the summer, when open-air spaces take over.

Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center Architects: Renzo Piano Building Workshop | NIKOS PAVLAKIS/ALAMY ©

Have a night out at Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center whose offerings include the Greek National Opera.

ANDERS BLOMQVIST/LONELY PLANET ©

Choose between rembetika (Greek blues), rock and thrash at Exarhia’s music clubs.

Take in a show or literary reading at a cool bar-cabaret in old rail cars at Treno sto Rouf.

LAZAROS PAPANDREOU/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Catch a film in summer air at garden cinemas like Aegli Cinema or Cine Dexameni.

Enjoy state-of-the-art concert hall Megaro Mousikis (pictured) with a rich winter performance program and summer shows in its garden.

Event hop at multiuse spaces like Gazi’s Gazarte, with its theatre and rooftop bar, and Bios with a cinema, gallery and bar.

THE BEST

Tour Experiences

With its winding streets, Athens rewards random wandering and unstructured exploration, but top-notch tour guides and enriching activities can help you dig deeper and go further.

CERI BREEZE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

E-bike tours by We Bike Athens (webikeathens.gr) in Thisio, Solebike (solebike.eu) near the Acropolis, and Roll in Athens (rollinathens.tours) near Syntagma take the strain out of pedalling uphill. Rent your own at Funky Ride (funkyride.gr).

Athens Walking Tours (athenswalkingtours.gr) and Alternative Athens (alternativeathens.com) have expert guides and eclectic experiences.

This Is Athens (thisisathens.org) has a by-donation program that teams visitors with locals for themed walks. Book 72 hours ahead.

Visit Attica honey farms with Athens Honey Tasting (athens-honeytasting.gr) or go birdwatching with Greece Bird Tours (greecebirdtours.com). Vouriya Tours (vouryia.com) creates culture or culinary tours. Trekking Hellas (trekking.gr) guides rock climbs/canyoning on Mt Parnitha, hikes and kids’ outings.

Best for Kids

Relax with movie magic at open-air cinemas, like Cine Paris – only films for the youngest kids are dubbed in Greek; everything else gets Greek subtitles.

Spend the afternoon in the National Gardens with its playground and duck pond, and roam immediately south to Zappeio for its enclosed, shaded playground.

Entertain younger children with Greek shadow puppets at Theatro Skion Tasou Konsta in Flisvos Park or some Sundays at Melina Merkouri Cultural Centre.

Admire the city from atop Lykavittos Hill where you can explore its cave chapel. Bonus: funicular ride up.

Take the free shuttle to Stavros Niarchos Park, then rent bikes to roam between the kids’ play area, gardens, fountains and nearby seafront.

Best for Free

Plan for free nights at the Benaki Museum of Greek Culture (Thursdays from 6pm to midnight) and a winter visit to the National Archaeological Museum (free first Sunday of the month, from 1 November to 31 March).

Tour the 17th-century Benizelos Mansion, the oldest home in Athens, located right in central Plaka.

Stroll Athens’ First Cemetery where you can spot the tombs of local and international luminaries and admire elaborate, carved-marble sculptures and reliefs.

See what’s on at the rehabbed Lenorman Tobacco Processing Plant, a gigantic exhibition space where most shows are free.

Hop between the city’s free museums like the Museum of Traditional Pottery, old ribbon factory Mentis-Antonopoulos (‘Nema’) Passementerie, and Plato’s Academy Digital Museum.

Three Perfect Days

Athens’ highlights leapfrog millennia, from the Classical, Roman and Byzantine eras to contemporary times. Sample the sheer variety of experiences on offer – a delicious taste.

Gate of Athena Archegetis | K_SAMURKAS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DAY ONE

Only Have One Day?

Morning

Circle the very centre, starting early at the Acropolis. Then, wind down to the Roman Agora and Ancient Agora. Lunch at delicious A Little Taste of Home, before exploring Plaka’s back streets.

Afternoon

Spend time at the Acropolis Museum perusing its masterpieces. Close to sundown, join the crowds promenading on Dionysiou Areopagitou, and walk up Filopappou Hill. Dine with an Acropolis view at GH Attikos or on Peloponnesian specialities at Mani Mani.

Evening

Catch an outdoor film at Thision or Cine Paris. Join the artsy set with dinner and drinks in Koukaki. In cooler weather have a cosy drink at Brettos (pictured), Materia Prima or Hitchcocktales.

ALBERTO AROCHAS/500PX ©

DAY TWO

A Weekend Trip

Morning

Soak up the atmosphere of Athens Central Market, and the surrounding streets with their eclectic shops. Have lunch at Diporto Agoras or Karamanlidika tou Fani.

Afternoon

Take a few hours admiring exquisite Greek antiquities at the National Archaeological Museum.

Evening

Have rooftop cocktails here or hit one of the excellent Syntagma-area bars, such as Dude Bar or Baba Au Rum. For an open-air performance, book ahead at historic Roman theatre, Odeon of Herodes Atticus (pictured), especially during the Athens Epidaurus Festival, or take in a traditional dance show at Dora Stratou Dance Theatre.

REGION OF ATTICA/LONELY PLANET ©

DAY THREE

A Short Break

Morning

Treat yourself to high tea at the Grande Bretagne, then watch the evzones (guards) strut their pom-pom-toed stuff at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (pictured). Shop in central Athens, and pop into its emblematic arcades along the way. You can get a simple, delicious lunch at Aspro Alogo or Tzitzikas kai Mermigas.

Afternoon

Stroll south through the National Gardens to the Temple of Olympian Zeus, then stand on the plinth at the Panathenaic Stadium, before walking Pangrati.

Evening

Dine at Mavro Provato or Soil, then hit the bars on Plateia Proskopon, or backtrack to Monastiraki and Psyrri, and party your way through central Athens.

ADRIENNE PITTS/LONELY PLANET ©

If You Have More Time

There’s plenty more to keep you busy in Athens and the surrounding areas after you’re done with the headline antiquities and museums. Immerse yourself in the archaeological site of Kerameikos, then visit the nearby Museum of Islamic Art. Or if you’re footsore from sightseeing, revive yourself with a bath at Hammam.

Get a shot of contemporary art at Benaki Museum at Pireos 138. The cafe here is nice for coffee – or cross the road to Upupa Epops. Or, savour the best and biggest examples of Athens’ prolific graffiti and street-art murals in Gazi, Keramiko and Metaxourgio and nearby Exarhia, where the messages lean anti-establishment.

For dinner, head over to Thisio’s Merceri, or, if you’ve booked ahead, CTC Urban Gastronomy in Keramikos. Then explore nightlife venues in Gazi: a DJ at Gazarte or Bios, a jazz band at Afrikana or a sweaty late night in clubs like BeQueer.

Kerameikos | NEJDET DUZEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

A City Day Trip

Drive, taxi or (free) shuttle to Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center where you can play in the park and take in incredible sunset views before enjoying an aria at the Greek National Opera, or in summer, the Nostos Festival.

If you’ve got your own wheels (or book a day tour), zip along the shining Athens Riviera coast to Cape Sounion’s resplendent Temple of Poseidon. Along the way, take a dip at one of the beaches, and if it’s winter, you can still swim beneath dramatic cliffs at the warmer Limni Vouliagmenis (pictured). If your timing is right, you can throw in a tour of the Sea Turtle Protection Society of Greece sanctuary in Glyfada.

SVEN HANSCHE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

On a Rainy Day

Since everything is compact in central Kolonaki, you can easily pass a rainy day shopping or in its excellent museums: Benaki Museum of Greek Culture, Museum of Cycladic Art and Byzantine & Christian Museum. If you’re feeling ambitious, loop in the National Gallery for Greek painting and the Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation for international art.

At sunset, if the weather’s cleared, take the funicular up Lykavittos Hill (pictured), then eat dinner downhill at Filippou or Oikeio. If it’s still raining, take a taxi to Exarhia for Cretan food, and then chill in one of its rembetika or other music bars. Jazz your bag? Taxi to Half Note Jazz Club.

GREENS AND BLUESE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Get Prepared

BOOK AHEAD

Three months before Book your hotel early, especially for summer. Get tickets for festivals like Athens Epidaurus Festival.

One month before Check cultureisathens.gr and get tickets for performances (eg Greek National Opera or Megaron). Reserve a table at top restaurants.

One week before Check for any strikes during your stay; book tours (tourist-guides.gr) and online tickets to the Acropolis.

Manners Matter

Body language ‘Yes’ is a swing of the head and ‘no’ is a quick raising of the head or eyebrows, often accompanied by a ‘tsk’.

Photography Don’t photograph church altars or icons. At archaeological sites, a tripod marks you as a professional and may require special permission.

Places of worship Cover shoulders and knees. Some churches deny admission if you show too much skin.

Get into It

Gain insight into contemporary Athens with these books, films and songs.

Walking in Athens with Constantine Cavafy Compare Athens today to the city at the turn of the 20th century.

Uncle Petros and Goldbach’s Conjecture (Apostolos Doxiadis; 1992) A tale of love, mathematics and Athens.

Attenberg (2010) Athina Rachel Tsangari’s ode to disaffected youth.

Rembetika: Songs of the Greek Underground 1925–1947 Classic songs you’re likely to hear played.

Things to Know

Payment Cash is king as it helps businesses avoid extra fees from banks, though since the COVID-19 pandemic, cards are accepted more widely.

Check your bill Unfortunately, bill-padding and ovezrcharging does happen in touristy areas. Watch out for the unordered drinks that turn out not to be complimentary.

Discounts Students, children and senior citizens get discounted admission at nearly all museums and sights.

Bargaining Gentle bargaining is acceptable in flea markets and other markets, but elsewhere you’re always expected to pay the stated price.

Dine late Greeks eat dinner late, rarely sitting down before sunset in summer. Restaurants often don’t fill until after 10pm.

TIPPING

Tipping is usually optional in Greece, but in Athens it’s typical to tip in restaurants and certainly for swanky club service and high-end meals. Also tip housekeeping and bellboys (€1 to €3), and round up to the nearest euro elsewhere.

DAILY BUDGET

Budget: Less than €140

• Dorm bed: €35

• Pension double: from €80

• Souvlaki or pitta (pie): €3.50

• Ouzo with a snack: €5

• 90-minute transit ticket: €1.20

Midrange: €140–275

• Double room in a midrange hotel: €90–200

• Traditional taverna meal: €15–25

• Museum and site entry fees: €5–20

• Taxi across town: €9

Top end: More than €275

• Double room in a top hotel: from €240

• Trendy restaurant meal: from €35

• Cocktail: €10

• Acropolis tour guide: from €75

Currency

Euro (€)

Language

Greek

Time

Eastern European Time (GMT/UTC plus two hours)

ARIS GAUCHO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ATHENS SPOTLIGHTED DISCOUNTS

You can get the free Athens Spotlighted (athenspotlighted.gr) card from the Athens Airport Information Desk (thisisathens.org), or register online. It offers discounts at some shops, restaurants and a few sights.

When to Go

Athens is great year-round, but spring, autumn and winter allow you to escape the tourism crush and heat – a help in combatting overtourism.

Athens and the islands wake from their winter slumber around Greek Orthodox Easter (April/May) and gear up slowly through the warmer months, reaching a jam-packed peak mid August. Shoulder season (March to May and September to October) is the best time for avoiding Athens’ heat and crowds, and ideal for walking and hikes. Winter remains superb for wandering around ancient sites virtually alone. It’s also when Greeks are in cities, working, so cafe culture and nightlife boom.

The Big Events

April or May: The Greek Orthodox calendar is chock-full of festivals and saints’ name days, but the biggest by far is Greek Orthodox Easter (usually different dates than Catholic Easter). Experience Easter week in Athens’ atmospheric smaller chapels, like Church of Agioi Anargyroi in Plaka, then look out for fireworks, feasting and plenty of ouzo.

May: Athens City Festival (cityfestival.thisisathens.org) celebrates spring in the capital with arts and culinary events, concerts and museum nights, plus kids’ activities all over town.

June to August: Plan to attend the most prominent Greek summer festival, the Athens Epidaurus Festival, featuring local and international music, dance and drama at the ancient Odeon of Herodes Atticus on Athens’ Acropolis and in the Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus in the Peloponnese.

September: Athens’ biggest contemporary art fair, Art Athina (art-athina.gr), runs for four days in central Athens at venues like Zappeio Palace.

Athens Weather

Easter mass | ALEXANDROS MICHAILIDIS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Artsy & Interesting

September: Athens International Film Festival (aiff.gr) features retrospectives, premieres and international art films and documentaries.

October to December: Every two years, the Athens Biennale (athensbiennale.org) showcases top local and international artists across a range of media and locations around the capital.

May or June: Athens Jazz (athensjazz.gr) is a week-long free festival at Technopolis, the converted gasworks in Gazi.

August: Under the year’s brightest moon, the August Moon Festival sees historical venues in Athens, such as the Acropolis or Roman Agora, hold free moonlit performances of theatre, dance and music. The festival is also celebrated in other towns and sites around Greece; check locally.

ACCOMMODATION LOWDOWN

You’ll find the best lodging prices during shoulder and low season (and it will help combat summer overtourism). The weather is mild, crowds are slim and prices are down by about 20%. From November to March, rates can drop by as much as 50%. Book well ahead in summer, when prices skyrocket.

Getting There

Most visitors arrive in Athens at Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, 27km east of the city centre, or from the islands at Piraeus port, 10km to the southwest.

From the Airport to the City Centre

Metro

Metros (stasy.gr and oasa.gr) serve the airport every half hour between 6.30am and 11.58pm (adult/return €9/16). Airport tickets are priced separately from the rest of the metro/bus services. It takes approximately 40 minutes to get to Plateia Syntagmatos and 50 minutes to Monastiraki, and is one of the most reliable ways to time your journey, since traffic can fluctuate wildly.

Bus

Express buses (Syntagma bus X95 and Piraeus bus X96) operate 24/7. At the airport, buy tickets (€5.50) at the booth near the stop. A €20 tourist ticket, valid for three days, includes round-trip airport service and city transit. Bus X95 takes about one hour to the city centre.

Taxi

A taxi takes 30 to 40 minutes. They are a flat rate (€40/55 day/night) – don’t let drivers convince you otherwise. There are also car-rental companies in the airport, and ride-hailing apps Uber and FREENOW work.

Other Points of Entry

Most island ferries and all cruise ships arrive at the Port of Piraeus (olp.gr). Suburban rail line 1 (green) and metro line 3 (blue) from Athens terminate at gate E7. They run from 5.30am to midnight. It takes about 30 minutes to reach the Thissio stop. Bus 040 (every 30 minutes, 24/7) goes to Athens, and from May to October so does express X80. Direct bus X96 to Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport stops outside the metro and along the road outside the port. The T7 tram departs from outside E8.

Inside the port, a free shuttle bus runs regularly along the northern quays from gate E7 to E1.

Taxi drivers are notorious for overcharging. At the port, hail a taxi from the street or rideshare app if possible. Expect to pay €20 to €25, on the meter, to the centre (about 20 minutes without traffic).

Getting Around

Central Athens is compact and easy to explore on foot. The key ancient ruins are all clustered around the Acropolis and Plaka. This area overlaps with the oldest parts of the modern city, around Syntagma and Monastiraki. Other key neighbourhoods, with great social scenes and sights, are a longer walk, or a short bus or metro ride away.

Metro

Athens has a well-run, good-value metro system (pictured; stasy.gr) that’s fast and efficient. Ticketing is simple and maps have English labels, but there’s no printed map, so use Google Maps directions. Trains run from 5.30am to midnight, every five or six minutes during peak periods, and every 10 minutes off-peak. On Fridays and Saturdays, lines 2 and 3 run until 2am. The last airport train is at 11pm. All stations have lifts and wheelchair access.

The metro’s three lines connect to the trams, buses and suburban railway (hellenictrain.gr).

9ROBOT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Bus

Buses (oasa.gr) go everywhere, but their speed varies with traffic. There are no printed maps. Express buses – like the X80 to Piraeus, and airport buses to Syntagma (X95) and Piraeus (X96) – are handiest. The typical service is every 15 minutes, from 5am to midnight, though the airport bus runs 24/7.

PHOTOOIASSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

ESSENTIAL APP

Download the OASA Telematics app to plan routes and find the location of buses, trolleybuses and trams.

Tram

Athens’ trams (stasy.gr) offer picturesque, slow journeys along the coast to Voula and Piraeus. The tramline runs from Syntagma, opposite the National Gardens, to the coast. You can transfer to a seafront line at the Edem or Pikrodafni stops.

Service runs from 5.30am to midnight Sunday to Thursday (every 10 minutes), and to 1.40am on Friday and Saturday (every 40 minutes). Ticket machines are on the platforms.

Taxis & Rideshares

Hail a taxi in the street or use an app – FREENOW (free-now.com), Ikaros (radiotaxiikaros.gr), Taxiplon (taxiplon.gr) or Uber (which only calls professional drivers).

Taxis cost €0.90 per kilometre (€1.25 from midnight to 5am), and the minimum charge is €4. They tend to be affordable, relative to other European capitals. Short trips around central Athens cost about €7. Generally, press the driver to turn on the meter (roloi in Greek) to ensure a fair fare and watch your change closely. Tricks abound. To the airport, negotiate a flat fare of €45/60 during the day/night.

For day trips, Athens Tour Taxi (athenstourtaxi.com) is recommended.

Ferry

Ferries serve Athens from the main port of Piraeus and the smaller ports of Lavrio and Rafina, which connect to the Cyclades.

Bicycle

Sightseeing by bike can be efficient despite few cycle lanes, reckless drivers and many hills. Go on a tour or hire a bike. Two bikes are allowed on the last carriage of the metro or tram, so you can bike one way and public transport back.

Car

Avoid due to narrow streets and congestion, plus parking is difficult.

Public Transport Essentials

Transit Prices

• Single rides cost €1.20 each and are good for 90 minutes with unlimited transfers. You get a discount for buying five or 10.

• 24-hour/five-day travel passes cost €4.10/8.20. These exclude airport transfer.

• Three-day tourist tickets (€20) include round-trip airport transfer. Good if you plan to use the metro a few times.

• Children six and under travel free. Under 18s or over 65s pay €0.50 (student ID and proof of age are required), and you must buy your ticket at a ticket office.

• Standalone metro tickets from the airport: adult/return €9/16.

• Standalone express bus tickets from the airport cost €5.50.

Where to Buy Your Ticket

• Ticket offices and machines in the metro issue Ath.ena tickets.

• For express buses, there is usually a kiosk selling the special ticket, such as at the airport and in Piraeus.

• For trams, you buy your ticket from a machine on the platform.

Validating Your Ticket

On the metro, tap the card at the turnstiles. At some stations you also need to tap out. On buses and trams, board at any door and tap on the validation machine.

TRAVEL COSTS

90-minute transit ticket €1.20

Daily transit pass €4.10

3-day tourist ticket €20

FINES

Getting caught without a valid ticket results in a fine that is 60 times the ticket price.

TICKETS

Ath.ena Ticket The transit system uses the unified Ath.ena Ticket, a reloadable paper card available from ticket offices and machines in the metro. It’s good on buses, the tram and the metro. Load it with credit, then validate it with each use. Keep it in case of spot-checks and to exit some stations. The plastic Ath.ena Card is available at ticket offices (minimum €4.50 credit). One tap is good for 90 minutes, including transfers or return trips.

Airport and Express services You need a special ticket for airport services, whether metro or bus. Also, you must buy special tickets for express buses (from Piraeus, for example), and they cannot be reloaded.

TICKET DETAILS

Scan this QR code for details on tickets and rules.

A Few Surprises

Athens is constantly evolving, and there’s always something unusual or new for the curious visitor to discover.

Repurposed Art Spaces

Athens’ edgy and constantly evolving art scene makes the most of its rambling buildings and industrial locales. You can see contemporary Greek and international art stars in a remodelled brewery at the National Museum of Contemporary Art (EMST). The Lenorman Tobacco Processing Plant now holds light-filled gallery rooms. Technopolis was a former industrial gasworks in Gazi. There’s even a theatre and cultural space in an old train car at Treno sto Rouf, and street art and street food at a former tram depot. Many of these venues also host films and performances. To see what’s on, check cultureisathens.gr.

Book Stores & Literary Life

Drama and literature flourished in ancient Athens due to luminaries like Aeschylus, Sophocles and Euripides. The tradition continues today with ubiquitous theatres and bookshops. Right alongside the Acropolis, Little Tree Book Cafe combines tomes with coffee and sweet treats. Head to Exarhia bookshops for more politically and culturally edgy outlets, like Politeia. Pick up travel books and maps at Travel Bookstore or Anavasi. Even the huge Public (public.gr) store on Plateia Syntagmatos has a booming book section, with titles in multiple languages.

Street Foods & Sweets

Athenians love their snacks and sweets, and the city offers a smorgasbord of grazing options. Eat your souvlaki standing square-side at Kostas, or chomp late-night skewers at rockin’ souvlaki joint Elvis. Get fresh, healthy and spicy at Middle Eastern Feyrouz, a budget diner’s best friend. Sample spinach and cheese pies and traditional cookies at Kallimarmaro or Ariston, and orange cake at To Koulouri tou Psyrri.

Ice cream and gelato royalty are found at Plaka’s Cremino, Pangrati’s Maraboo and Morris Brown, as well as Kolonaki’s Ninnolo. They compete with delicious chocolates and baklava at top sweet shops like Aristokratikon.

Technopolis | MILAN GONDA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Cremino | MARISSA TEJADA/LONELY PLANET ©

Antique shop, Monastiraki Flea Market VANGELIS KORONAKIS/LONELY PLANET ©

Hadrian’s Library | MILAN GONDA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Old-School Street Markets

Athens combines modern life with shops and markets that feel like a blast directly into the past. Epic flea markets make for killer browsing and unusual keepsakes. The central, obvious one is Plateia Avyssinias with its bric-a-brac and antiques edging the Monastiraki Flea Market, but you could also plan for Eleonas Flea Market which runs from dawn to 2pm on Sundays. It’s not for everyone: the city’s trash-pickers and junk dealers, plus sellers of vegetables, new clothes and bulk items, lay out their wares in several warehouses and parking lots in this industrial part of town. The persistent can find some bargains, collectables and kitsch delights among the junk.

For food and drink, wander a laïki agora (weekly street market; laikesagores.gr) in neighbourhoods like Pangrati, Kolonaki, and Exarhia.

Combined Tickets

Athenians are democratic with their art and culture. Children are often free, students and senior citizens get reduced admission, and combo tickets serve multiple sights for a bargain rate. The best is the €30 ticket that covers one entry to the Acropolis and Athens’ other main ancient sites: Ancient Agora, Roman Agora, Hadrian’s Library, Kerameikos, Temple of Olympian Zeus and Aristotle’s Lyceum. It pays off if you’re visiting the Acropolis (€20 alone, if you’re not eligible for reduced admission) and two other sites. It’s valid for five consecutive days, and you can buy it at any of the included sites or online at hhticket.gr.

Similarly, a €30 pass covers one entry to each Athens branch of the Benaki Museum (except their Valadoros Collection), and is valid for three months. Or pick up a three-day €15 ticket which covers the National Archaeological Museum, Byzantine & Christian Museum, Epigraphical Museum and Numismatic Museum.

Check culture.gr and Hellenic Heritage e-ticket (hhticket.gr) for free-admission holidays.

OFFBEAT ATHENS

• Make like Ol’ Blue Eyes and have cocktails at retro Au Revoir Bar in untouristy Kypseli.

• Plan ahead to stargaze from the top of the Hill of the Nymphs at the National Observatory of Athens.

• Bear witness at Koraï 4: when the German military occupied Athens in 1941, it used the basement as a prison, hidden in bustling downtown.

• Discover a tiny village in the Ano Petralona district just west of the Acropolis.

• Dress modestly to visit Athens’ oldest Byzantine church at Petraki Monastery, in the centre of Kolonaki.

Explore Athens

Acropolis Area

Monastiraki & Psyrri

Syntagma & Plaka

Kolonaki & Ilisia

Pangrati & Mets

Exarhia, Omonia & Kypseli

Filopappou Hill, Thisio & Petralona

Keramikos, Gazi & Metaxourgio

Worth a Trip

Athens Riviera

Temple of Poseidon at Sounion

Attica Wineries

Athens’ Walking Tours

Walk Ancient Athens

Walk Monastiraki & Psyrri

Walk Around the Central Market

Walk Plaka & Syntagma

Walk Central Athens

Walk Kolonaki

Walk Pangrati & Mets

Walk Exarhia

Walk Filopappou Hill, Thisio & Petralona

Walk Keramikos, Gazi & Metaxourgio

Odeon of Herodes Atticus and Acropolis | GEORGE PACHANTOURIS/GETTY IMAGES ©

Explore

Acropolis Area

Athens’ crown is the Acropolis and its jewel is the Parthenon. This epic marble monument gleams above the city, and on the hill’s southern slopes, a modern museum holds its treasures. The Dionysiou Areopagitou promenade links the two – it’s a tourist throughway, but also a favourite spot for locals to stroll at sundown. Further south, the neighbourhoods of Makrygianni and Koukaki deliver a slice of residential life with hip bars, restaurants, craft shops and boutiques. The Acropolis soars above the city, making it easy to orientate yourself along the way.

The Parthenon | BAITEREK MEDIA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

See for eating, drinking and shopping listings

Getting Around

Walking

There are slopes to climb and descend but the districts’ pedestrian promenades and generally quiet back streets make it an ideal one to discover on foot.

Metro

Akropoli metro station (red line) sits near the Acropolis Museum and the Acropolis Southeast Entrance, just off major boulevard Leoforos Syngrou (also served by the Sygrou-Fix metro stop). The Monastiraki (blue line) and Thisio (green line) stops are further away, but allow for a scenic walk to the Acropolis Main Entrance.

THE BEST

ANCIENT SITE Acropolis

HISTORIC MUSEUM Acropolis Museum

OPEN-AIR THEATRE Odeon of Herodes Atticus

BIKE TOUR Solebike

EDGY ART National Museum of Contemporary Art

1Top Experiences

 AcropolisD1

 Acropolis MuseumE3

1Experiences

1Dionysiou AreopagitouD3

2Areopagus HillB1

3LovecutsE4

4Book GardenC6

5Librofilo & CoA7

6Koukeri SotiriaB7

7Moloko PlusB7

 Fibra Fibra(see 8)

8Trabala StudiosB8

9Area Concept StoreB8

10SoybirdB6

11Uku 79/81B6

12National Museum of Contemporary ArtC8

13State of ConceptC7

14TAVROSA8

15Dio Horia GalleryE4

16Technohoros Art GalleryE4

17or.artspaceA8

18Onassis Stegi Cultural CentreB8

19Ilias Lalaounis Jewellery MuseumD3

20Funky RideE4

21SolebikeF4

 Hytra(see 18)

5Eating

22RomatellaE5

23This Is LocoD6

24Mikro PolitikoF2

25Greek StoriesE4

26Fresko Yogurt BarF3

27Tuk TukC5

28Mani ManiE5

29Point AD3

30GH AttikosB3

31EllevoroD4

32StrofiB3

33YubabaA7

34Laluk Cafe-BarA8

35El Burro Tacos y TequilaA8

36DjangoD5

37Mother Vegan Cafe BistroA8

38PeasD6

39VeganakiF4

6Drinking

40Little Tree Book CafeD4

41Bel RayB8

42Hippy HippoB7

43Lotte Cafe-BistrotD4

44Materia PrimaC7

45ScampA7

46HitchcocktalesE4

47Drupes SpritzeriaD4

48SfikaC5

49Tiki AthensE5

50BatmanE8

51Blame the SunB6

52Strange BrewB8

53KouklesB8

 Duende(see 26)

7Shopping

54Melissinos ArtF3

 Lo-Fi Concept(see 9)

55UnderflowD6

TOP EXPERIENCE

Acropolis

You can’t miss the Acropolis, the most important ancient site in the western world. Crowned by the Parthenon, it’s visible from almost everywhere in Athens. Its marble gleams white in the midday and takes on a honey hue as the sun sinks, then glows above the city by night.

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Odeon of Herodes Atticus | VIACHESLAV LOPATIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PLANNING TIP

Visit at 8am (less crowded and cooler) or late in the day. Buy timed tickets in advance at hhticket.gr, or the €30 combo ticket at other covered ancient sites.

Scan for prices, free-admission holidays, opening hours and detailed site histories.

Zenith of Classical Greece

Cast your imagination back two and a half millennia ago, and envision the majesty of the Acropolis. Its famed monument, the Parthenon, stood proudly over a small city, dwarfing it with its graceful grandeur. In fact, the Acropolis was inhabited from Neolithic times (4000–3000 BCE), and the earliest temples were built during the Mycenaean era, in homage to the goddess Athena. People continued to live here until 510 BCE, when the Delphic oracle declared it the sole province of the gods. In 480 BCE everything was destroyed by the Persians on the eve of the Battle of Salamis. Subsequently, Pericles set about his ambitious rebuilding program – only the best for the city dedicated to the cult of Athena. The Acropolis was transformed into a showcase of lavishly coloured buildings and gargantuan, painted statues, some of bronze, others of marble plated with gold and encrusted with semi-precious stones.

Theatre of Dionysos

Enter from the quieter Acropolis Southeast Entrance, and you’ll immediately come to the ancient Theatre of Dionysos. In the 6th century BCE a timber theatre was built here, on the site of the Festival of the Great Dionysia. During Athens’ golden age, the theatre hosted productions by Aeschylus, Sophocles, Euripides and Aristophanes. Reconstructed in stone and marble between 342 and 326 BCE, the theatre held 17,000 spectators (spread over 64 tiers, of which only about 20 survive) and an altar to Dionysos in the orchestra pit.

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS

There’s a dedicated wheelchair route: a cage lift near the Acropolis Main Entrance and designated paths – call ahead to arrange lift use: 210 321 4172.

Thrones & Carvings

The ringside Pentelic marble thrones were for dignitaries and priests. The grandest, with lions’ paws, satyrs and griffins, was reserved for the Priest of Dionysos. The 2nd-century BCE reliefs at the rear of the stage depict the exploits of Dionysos. The two hefty men (who still have their heads) are sileni, worshippers of the mythical Silenus, the debauched father of the satyrs, whose favourite pastime was charging up mountains with his oversized phallus in lecherous pursuit of nymphs.

Asclepieion & Stoa of Eumenes

Climb the stairs towards the Asclepieion, a temple built around a sacred spring. The worship of Asclepius, the physician son of Apollo, began in Epidavros and was introduced to Athens in 429 BCE at a time when plague was sweeping the city: people sought cures here.

Beneath the Asclepieion, the Stoa of Eumenes is a colonnade built by Eumenes II, King of Pergamum (197–159 BCE), as a shelter and promenade for theatre audiences, which leads to the top of the Odeon of Herodes Atticus (see right).

QUICK BREAK

There are no cafes on the Acropolis. Instead, swing in to GH Attikos for a meal with Parthenon views, or book ahead for late lunch at Mani Mani.

Temple of Athena Nike

As you climb the final steps towards the top of the Acropolis, look up to see, perched on the right, one of the site’s best-restored buildings, Temple of Athena Nike. This diminutive but exquisitely proportioned building was designed by Kallicrates around 425 BCE. The internal cella housed a wooden statue of Athena as Victory (Nike), and the exterior friezes illustrate mythological scenes: the Battle of Plataea (479 BCE) and Athenians fighting Boeotians and Persians. Parts of the frieze are in the Acropolis Museum, as are sculptures, including the beautiful depiction of Athena Nike fastening her sandal.

Propylaia

You’ve arrived! Like so many pilgrims before you, pass through the Propylaia, the monumental entrance to the Acropolis. In ancient times its five gates were the only entrances to the ‘upper city’. The middle gate opens onto the Panathenaic Way, the route for the great Panathenaic Procession. Built by Mnesicles between 437 BCE and 432 BCE, the Propylaia consists of a central hall with two wings on either side. The ceiling of the central hall was painted with gold stars on a dark-blue background. The northern wing was used as a pinakothiki (art gallery).

EXPERIENCE THE ODEON OF HERODES ATTICUS

On the Acropolis’ south slope, between the main entrance in the west and the Theatre of Dionysos in the east, is the magnificent Odeon of Herodes Atticus, known as the Herodion, built in 161 CE by wealthy Roman Atticus in memory of his wife Regilla. Best thing? Attending a concert or event, from Sting to La Traviata, during the summertime Athens Epidaurus Festival (aefestival.gr).

Parthenon

Epitomising the glory of Ancient Greece, the Parthenon, meaning ‘virgin’s apartment’, is dedicated to the goddess Athena Parthenos. One of the largest Doric temples ever completed in Greece, it was designed by Iktinos and Kallicrates, took 15 years to build, and was completed in time for the Great Panathenaic Festival of 438 BCE.

Standing on the highest ground of the Acropolis, the Parthenon had two purposes: to house the great statue of Athena, commissioned by Pericles, and to serve as the new treasury. It was built on the site of at least three earlier temples dedicated to Athena.

The creamy marble monument you view today is not how ancient Greeks would have encountered it. The Parthenon’s details were brightly coloured and gilded.

Columns

The Parthenon’s fluted Doric columns achieve perfect form. The eight columns at either end and 17 on each side were ingeniously curved to create an optical illusion: the foundations (like all the ‘horizontal’ surfaces of the temple) are slightly concave and the columns are slightly convex, making both appear straight.

Pediments

The temple’s pediments (the triangular elements topping the east and west facades) were filled with elaborately carved three-dimensional sculptures. The west side depicted Athena and Poseidon in their contest for the city’s patronage, the east Athena’s birth from Zeus’ head. See their remnants in the Acropolis Museum.

THE GREAT SURVIVOR

During its 2500 years, the Acropolis has taken a battering from foreign occupation (in 1687 an explosion of gunpowder, which the Ottomans had stored in the Parthenon, significantly damaged all the buildings), visitors’ footsteps, earthquakes and pollution. Restorations are ongoing (don’t be surprised by scaffolding). Most original carvings are in the Acropolis Museum – what you see on the hill are replicas.

Metopes & Frieze

The Parthenon’s metopes, designed by Pheidias, are square carved panels set between channelled triglyphs. Those on the eastern side depicted the Olympian gods fighting the giants, and on the western side they showed Theseus leading Athenian youths into battle against the Amazons. The southern metopes illustrated the contest of the Lapiths and centaurs at a marriage feast, while the northern ones depicted the sacking of Troy. The internal cella was topped by the Ionic frieze, a continuous sculptured band depicting the Panathenaic Procession.

Erechtheion & Porch of the Caryatids

As you circle around the site, you’ll see the Erechtheion, immediately recognisable by the six majestic maiden columns, the Caryatids (415 BCE), which support its southern portico. Those you see are plaster casts. The originals (except for one removed by Lord Elgin, now in the British Museum) are in the Acropolis Museum.

Completed around 406 BCE, the Erechtheion was a sanctuary built on the most sacred part of the Acropolis: the spot where Poseidon struck the ground with his trident, and where Athena produced the olive tree. Named after Erechtheus, a mythical king of Athens, the temple housed the cults of Athena, Poseidon and Erechtheus.

Porch of the Caryatids | OLGA KOT PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Temple of Poseidon

Access Poseidon’s cella, the Erechtheion’s northern porch, by a small set of stairs against the boundary wall. It consists of six Ionic columns; the fissure in the floor was supposedly left either by Poseidon’s trident in his contest with Athena, or by Zeus’ thunderbolt when he killed Erechtheus.

EASE YOUR ENTRANCE

Enter through the southeast entrance, near the Akropoli metro; it’s usually less crowded. Tour groups use the main entrance uphill from the bus parking area on Dionysiou Areopagitou.

Large bags and pushchairs must be checked in the cloakroom at either entrance. At the main entrance, borrow a baby backpack carrier with a sunshade (you’ll leave an ID).

TOP EXPERIENCE

Acropolis Museum

The state-of-the-art Acropolis Museum beautifully displays the surviving treasures from the Acropolis hill. Sift through layers of history: glass floors expose subterranean ruins, and the Acropolis itself is visible through the floor-to-ceiling windows, so the masterpieces are always in context.

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SAIKO3P/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PLANNING TIP

Buy tickets online to skip the queue. Bring a smartphone and headphones to download and listen to the audioguide. The ground-floor shop and museum cafes are accessible without a ticket.

Scan for prices and opening hours, and to register for guided tours.

Entry Gallery & Ruins

As you enter the museum, look down through the glass floor to view the ruins of an ancient Athenian neighbourhood. These were uncovered during the museum’s construction and had to be preserved and integrated into a new building plan. Designed after years of planning by US-based architect Bernard Tschumi with Greek architect Michael Photiadis, it replaced the small museum on the Acropolis summit near the Parthenon.

Finds from the slopes of the Acropolis fill the entryway gallery. The floor’s slope echoes the climb up to the sacred hill, while giving glimpses of ruins beneath the museum foundation. Objects here include votive offerings from sanctuaries and, near the entrance, two clay statues of Nike.

Archaic Gallery

Bathed in natural light, the first floor is a veritable forest of statues, mostly votive offerings to Athena. These include stunning examples of 6th-century kore (statues of young women in draped clothing and elaborate braids). Most were recovered from a pit on the Acropolis, where the Athenians buried them after the Battle of Salamis. The youth bearing a calf, from 570 BCE, is one of the rare male statues discovered. There are also bronze figurines and artefacts from temples predating the Parthenon (destroyed by the Persians), including wonderful pedimental sculptures such as Hercules slaying the Lernaian Hydra, and a lioness devouring a bull.

Also on this floor are five of the original Caryatids, the world-famous maiden columns that held up the Erechtheion (the sixth is in the British Museum in London).

QUICK BREAK

The 2nd-floor restaurant is excellent. Sip a coffee on the terrace with prime Acropolis views, or get reasonably priced, seasonal dishes. No museum ticket is needed: get a pass from the front desk.

Missing Statue of Athena Parthenos

The statue for which the Parthenon was built and which once stood at its centre – the Athena Parthenos (Athena the Virgin) – was considered one of the wonders of the ancient world. It was taken to Constantinople in 426 CE, where it disappeared. Designed by Pheidias and completed in 432 BCE, it stood almost 12m high on its pedestal and was plated in gold. Athena’s face, hands and feet were made of ivory, and the eyes fashioned from jewels. You can see a tiny replica at the National Archaeological Museum.

Parthenon Gallery

The museum’s crowning glory, this top-floor glass atrium is built in alignment with the Parthenon, which is visible through the wraparound windows. It showcases the Parthenon’s pediments, metopes and 160m frieze. The frieze depicts the full Panathenaic Procession, starting at the southwest corner of the temple, with two groups splitting off and meeting on the east side for the delivery of the peplos (shawl) to Athena. To really understand the reliefs, see the film that is screened on this floor.

Interspersed between golden-hued originals are white plaster replicas of missing pieces, including the Parthenon Marbles – the sections removed (along with plenty of other antiquities) by the British diplomat Thomas Bruce, Earl of Elgin, in 1801. Encouraging conversations in 2022 and 2023 offered a glimmer of hope that they may one day return to Athens from the British Museum, perhaps on temporary loan.

INSIDER TIPS

Register online for occasional guided tours (included in the ticket price). You’ll need the registration code to attend. Leave time for fine museum shops and the film describing Acropolis history (top floor). Last admission is 30 minutes before closing; galleries are cleared 15 minutes before closing, starting at the top. On Fridays and Saturdays the 2nd-floor restaurant – great for a date – is open until midnight.

The Acropolis Museum | PHOTOGRAPH CHRISTIAN RICHTERS ©, COURTESY OF BERNARD TSCHUMI ARCHITECTS

WALKING TOUR

Walk Ancient Athens

The key ancient sites of Athens make for an action-packed but manageable walk, from the Temple of Olympian Zeus, past the Acropolis Museum and up to the Acropolis. Descend the other side of the hallowed hill to the Ancient Agora and Roman Agora. With only one day to see the sights, this is the walk to take.

START

Temple of Olympian Zeus

END

Ancient Agora

LENGTH

2.5km; four to five hours

1 Mammoth Temple

Begin at the striking Temple of Olympian Zeus, the largest temple in Greece. It had 104 Corinthian columns, of which 15 remain. Construction began in the 6th century BCE, and Hadrian finally completed it in 131 CE.

2 Landmark Arch

Teetering on the edge of the traffic alongside the temple is Hadrian’s Arch, the ornate gateway erected to mark the boundary of Hadrian’s Athens.

3 Museum of Priceless Treasures

Cross Leoforos Vasilissis Amalias and walk up the pedestrian promenade Dionysiou Areopagitou to the landmark Acropolis Museum. Pop inside to see the precious sculptures from the Acropolis, like the caryatids and amazing works from the Parthenon’s pediments, metopes and frieze. Have a refreshment at its good 2nd-floor restaurant with Acropolis views.

4 Ancient Theatres

Cross the pedestrian promenade to enter the Acropolis area via the eastern gate and, on the way up the southern slope of the Acropolis, explore the Theatre of Dionysos – the birthplace of theatre – and the magnificent Roman Odeon of Herodes Atticus.

5 Athens’ Crowning Acropolis

The Acropolis is the most important ancient site in the Western world. Take in its diminutive Temple of Athena Nike, then enter through the grand gates of the Propylaia to visit the iconic Parthenon as well as the Erechtheion, edged with caryatids, the embodiment of ‘statuesque’. On a clear day you can see for miles.

6 Historic Anafiotika District

Exit the Acropolis from the west gate and walk down Theorias, which skirts the Acropolis. Just ahead you’ll see the Church of the Metamorphosis marking the entry to Anafiotika, a picturesque maze of whitewashed houses. Explore a bit, then descend on pedestrianised Diaskouron for fantastic views of the Ancient Agora.

7 Roman Civic Centre

You’ll emerge from the Diaskouron stairs at Athens’ 2nd-century commercial centre: the Roman Agora. The highlight is the well-preserved Tower of the Winds. Built in the 1st century BCE, it functioned as an ingenious sundial, weather vane and water clock.

8 Spectacular Classical Agora

Jaunt just west to finish at the Ancient Agora, the seat of democracy, philosophy and commerce. This rambling site, with the superb Temple of Hephaistos, also has a top-notch museum in the colonnaded Stoa of Attalos.

EXPERIENCES

Promenade Beneath the Acropolis Pedestrian Walkway

You could skip all the sights and still feel you’ve got the city’s pulse just by strolling along Dionysiou Areopagitou map Google map around sundown. Lights glow on the Acropolis above as you join the action on the pedestrian road filled with tourists, snack vendors, musicians and local couples out for an arm-in-arm promenade.

At the intersection with Parthenos is the outline of a foundation – it marks the remains of a Roman villa now covered by the street.

Get Sweeping Views at Areopagus Hill Viewpoint Hill

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Climb the rocky Areopagus Hill outcrop for a brilliant viewpoint from below the Acropolis and overlooking the Ancient Agora. It’s especially evocative around sunset.

In Greek mythology, Ares successfully defended himself here against the council of the gods for the murder of Halirrhothios, son of Poseidon. The hill became the place where murder, treason and corruption trials were heard before the Council of the Areopagus. In 51 CE, St Paul delivered his famous ‘Areopagus Sermon’ here and gained his first Athenian convert, Dionysos, who became the city’s patron saint. The Pope always visits the hilltop when he comes to Athens.

If you walk down the hill to the west, look for patches of marble mosaic, remnants of houses that used to dot the hillside.

Cruise Makrygianni & Koukaki Boutiques Shopping

Businesses around the Acropolis are aimed at the mass tourist market. Instead, head downhill deeper into Makrygianni and Koukaki to discover more creative shopping. At the top of Veïkou, designer Maria Panagiotou makes all the cute, affordable clothing at Lovecuts (map Google map; lovecuts.gr). Bibliophiles can swing into Book Garden (map Google map; bookgardenathens.com) for used tomes and Librofilo & Co (map Google map; instagram.com/librofilo_and_co). Koukaki is also peppered with artisan jewellery studios such as Koukeri Sotiria (map Google map; sissykoukeri.com) and Moloko Plus (map Google map; instagram.com/moloko_jewelry). Head to Odissea Androutsou for a prime crop of shops. Browse colourful ceramics at Trabala Studios (map Google map; @trabalastudio) or clothes and accessories at Area Concept Store (map Google map; area.com.gr).

Learn to Cook Vegan or Throw Ceramics Cooking & Pottery Courses

Love Greek food and want to learn how to make it vegan? Take a cooking class at Soybird (map Google map; soybird.com; class from €60) where they’ll pair what you prepare – from moussaka to dolmades – with beer and wine. They also have variations that include market shopping or Asian-style cuisines.

If visual art is more your bag, book a pottery class across the street at Uku 79/81 (map Google map; @uku.athens; class from €60–90), or simply browse their wares.

See Art to Make You Think Contemporary Art Museum

The former FIX brewery, a hulking building designed by the modernist architect Takis Zenetos, emerged in 2020 transformed as the National Museum of Contemporary Art map Google map (EMST; emst.gr; adult/child €8/free). Plan on a couple of hours to take in the collection of over 1400 works by leading Greek and international artists. Alongside plenty of temporary exhibitions, at any one time around 150 works from the permanent collection are on display across three floors of the seven-floor building. Nearly all the art casts a critical eye on society and examines the big issues of our time – so expect to be challenged. Clear your head by taking a breather on the roof (which also hosts a summer-night cinema) with its panoramic city views.

Tap Into Cutting-Edge Art Art Galleries & Festivals

Galleries in the Makrygianni and Koukaki neighbourhoods further the thought-provoking themes of the National Museum of Contemporary Art. State of Concept (map Google map; stateofconcept.org), in Koukaki, was founded by art critic and curator iLiana Fokianaki and aims to create political discussion. TAVROS (map Google map; tavros.space), near Tavros metro station, is curated by Olga Hatzidaki and Maria Thalia Carras, with a tendency toward the intellectual. Check out Dio Horia Gallery (map Google map; diohoria.com) and Technohoros Art Gallery (map Google map; technohoros.eu) near the Acropolis Museum, or little independent or.artspace (map Google map; orartspace.com).

Art critic and curator Kostas Prapogolu’s team stages installations and shows, under the banner Artefact Athens (artefact-athens.org), at abandoned buildings.

Check out the Art Athina festival (aavirtual.gr) in September and, every other year, the Athens Biennale (athensbiennale.org). Visit currentathens.gr for information on current shows and artists.

Have a Night Out at the Onassis Cultural Centre Dinner & Performance

Venture down Leoforos Syngrou to Onassis Stegi Cultural Centre map Google map (onassis.org) for cutting-edge performances, art installations and other cultural events. It’s the Athens outpost of a cultural foundation established by shipping magnate Aristotle Onassis and it’s easy to spot: encased in strips of white marble, the building is most eye-catching at night when light glows from inside, making it an enormous lantern. Book ahead for excellent contemporary Greek at the centre’s restaurant Hytra map Google map (hytra.gr). Though portions can be small, flavours and cooking techniques are spot on, which is how it earned its Michelin star. In summer, dine on the roof for glittering views of the floodlit Acropolis and city landmarks.

Embrace the Bling with Ilias Lalaounis Jewellery Museum & Shop

Ilias Lalaounis Jewellery Museum map Google map is for fashionistas. Lalaounis adorned Elizabeth Taylor and Melina Mercouri, among many others, and is responsible for a singularly Greek style of bold, classically inspired gold jewellery. Browse some of the collection of 4500 pieces, which draws on everything from Greek wildflowers to pre-Columbian motifs. There’s a hands-on jewellery studio on the ground floor, as well as a small gift shop.

Fans of his style can see the family’s current work at the shop of the same name, or at Zolotas, another family business, both near Syntagma.

Go Easy Riding Bicycle Rental & Tours

Riding a rental bike around the Acropolis area is a good way to see the sights and catch a breeze. Our favourites are Funky Ride map Google map (funkyride.gr), or since Athens can be hilly, take an e-bike tour with Solebike map Google map (solebike.eu; tours from €39). Their high-quality guided tours in English, French and German include one tailored to kids.

Capture the Flag

All around central Athens you’ll catch glimpses of the large Greek flag flying, resplendent, at the far east end of the Acropolis. In 1941, early in the Nazi occupation of WWII, two teenage boys climbed the cliff and raised a Greek flag on this very spot. When you’re up on the the Acropolis’ summit, you can see the brass plaque near the flag commemorating their heroic act of resistance.

Greek Theatre Today

What better way to soak up Greece’s great cultural legacy than to catch a theatre production, especially in an open-air venue. Summertime Athens Epidaurus Festival (aefestival.gr) brings plays and musical performances to the Odeon of Herodes Atticus and the ancient theatre at Epidavros in the Peloponnese. Koilon Theatre Company (koilon.gr) stages short dramas based on Greek classics in Plaka between May and October. The National Theatre and the Greek National Opera (nationalopera.gr) both offer subtitles for their shows. Elefsina holds the Aeschylia Festival (aisxylia.gr) from late August to September.

LISTINGS

Best Places for...

€ Budget €€ Midrange €€€ Top End

Eating

Casual Bites near the Acropolis

Romatella €

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Delicious pizza by the slice, all homemade and crispy. noon-11pm Tue-Sat, from 5.30pm Sun

This Is Loco €

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Good times and all-day brunch in a glass-fronted buzzing spot. Think steaming latte, egg dishes, plus Mexican food, too. 8.30am-8pm

Mikro Politiko €

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Tuck into freshly prepared souvlaki or falafel and good salads from this little place, on the benches out front. 10am-7pm

Greek Stories € €

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In the swamp of tourist traps across from the Acropolis Museum, Greek Stories stands out for creative takes on Greek staples. The welcome is warm and the people-watching can’t be beaten. noon-11pm

Fresko Yogurt Bar €

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Delicious Greek yoghurt is the base of all things here. Either fresh or in smoothie form, you can pair it with any number of toppings, from chocolate to black-cherry spoon sweets. 9am-11.30pm

Tuk Tuk €

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Bright, cheerful place specialising in Thai street food such as noodles and curries. The prices are right and the food is fairly authentic. It’s small and gets busy. 5-11.50pm

Stylish Spots & Acropolis Views

Mani Mani € €

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Dig into herb-filled cuisine from the Mani Peninsula in the Peloponnese, like seafood orzo with wild fennel. 2-11pm

Point A (Acropolis Point) € € €

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Rooftop restaurant of the Herodion Hotel, with stunning Acropolis and Acropolis Museum views, serving Mediterranean and Greek specialities. 7pm-midnight

GH Attikos € €

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Greek classics in a casual, airy setting with Acropolis views and an open terrace. noon-4pm & 6-9pm Mon-Sat

Ellevoro € €

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Family-run, decorated with lacy white tablecloths, twinkling candles and mini-chandeliers, and serving superbly prepared trad Greek dishes. 7pm-midnight Wed-Mon, from noon Sun

Strofi € € €

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Book ahead for a Parthenon view from the rooftop of this exquisitely renovated town house. Food is simple grilled meats and fish, and the setting, with elegant white linen and excellent service, elevates the experience to romantic levels. noon-midnight Tue-Sun

Koukaki Picks

Yubaba €

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Kick back on the corner of excellent pedestrianised eat street Georgiou Olimpiou, over Greek mainstays and sweets. 4pm-2am Mon-Fri, from 2pm Sat & Sun

Laluk Cafe-Bar €

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Channelling Koukaki’s chilled vibe, this little cafe with terrace tables serves excellent brunch and light meals. 8.30am-1.30am Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun

El Burro Tacos y Tequila €

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One of Athens’ few Mexican joints, with yummy tacos, quesadillas, homemade lemonade and margaritas. 6pm-midnight

Django €

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Dig into delicious all-natural, handmade gelato and sorbet. Family-run with a modern vibe and a few tables outside, too. 9am-12.30am

Vegan & Vegetarian

Mother Vegan Cafe Bistro €

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Friendly and absolutely top-quality vegan Koukaki bistro with beautiful rotating menus at prices that feel like a steal. 10am-9.30pm Tue-Sun

Peas €

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This tiny storefront is an oasis for vegan or raw foods like seitan or mushroom souvlaki, veggie burgers and bodacious salads. noon-10pm

Veganaki €

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This convivial vegan spot may overlook a busy road, but inside all is calm as customers enjoy falafel wraps, sandwiches and traditional Greek pies, some gluten-free. 9.15am-11.45pm

Drinking

Cool Cafes

Little Tree Book Cafe

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Perfect pit stop near the Acropolis for excellent coffee, light snacks, books and great service. 9am-12.30am Tue-Sun

Bel Ray

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Hang with Koukaki’s hipsters at this stylin’ cafe-bar on a sharp street corner near Syngrou. 9am-1am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat

Hippy Hippo

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Channelling Koukaki’s chilled vibe, this slick cafe also serves excellent brunch dishes and light meals. 9am-midnight

Lotte Cafe-Bistrot

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Hide away from central Athens’ noise at this small, just-this-side-of-twee cafe. Sit outside in a private-feeling patch of tree-covered pavement, or inside among vintage books and tea sets. Food is homemade cakes and light snacks. 8am-midnight

Cocktails & Vintages

Duende

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Intimate Acropolis-area pub with the golden glow of a Parisian brasserie, great for a glass of wine or whisky (not for food or cocktails, though). 7.30pm-2am

Materia Prima

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Stylish Koukaki wine bar with an admirable dedication to artisan winemaking in Greece and beyond. 6pm-1.30am

Scamp

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A great Koukaki streetside local with coffees by day and delish cocktails by night, with good vibes and tunes. 9am-3am

Hitchcocktales

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Hitchcock-film images are spray-painted on the wall in front of this bar. Bartenders are polished, and the soundtrack is usually lively swing, jazz, soul and funk. 7am-3am Tue-Sun

Drupes Spritzeria

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Pocket-sized cafe and wine bar serving coffee, wines, aperitifs, spritzes and finger food near the Acropolis. 7am-10pm

Sfika

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Glowing yellow inside (perhaps for its namesake; sfika means ‘wasp’), this small neighbourhood cafe-restaurant-bar has an alternative/student vibe and occasional live music. 2pm-2am

Tiki Athens

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Kitschy bachelor-pad decor, an Asian-inspired menu and an alternative young crowd make this two-storey spot a fun place for a drink. There’s occasional live music or DJs. noon-4am

Batman

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A small bar in Neos Kosmos that plays Greek retro music and gets packed every night, after midnight until the morning. A cult institution on the Athenian nightlife scene. 9pm-6am

Koukaki’s Craft Breweries

Blame the Sun

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Tiki-vibe taproom dedicated to Greek craft beers. 5pm-midnight or 1am

Strange Brew

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Happy hispsters hang here sipping an ever-changing menu of their beers on tap. 6pm-1am Mon-Fri, 2pm-2am Sat & Sun

Drag Bar

Koukles

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Come to this legendary Koukaki club for over-the-top, glam drag shows. Usually from 1am or later

Shopping

Unusual Souvenirs

Melissinos Art

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Pantelis Melissinos continues the sandal-making tradition started by his grandfather in 1920 and made famous by his poet/cobbler father Stavros, who crafted shoes for Hollywood stars and VIPs. 10am-6pm Tue-Sat

Lo-Fi Concept

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Bring along a digital track and you can have your very own platter cut on PVC at this cool-cat shop in Koukaki. 10am-3pm Mon, 11am-9pm Tue-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat

Underflow

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One of Athens’ best record shops specialising in Greek avant-garde rock and obscure sounds. Also an art gallery, cafe and occasional performance space. Across Syngrou from Koukaki. 11am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat

Explore

Monastiraki & Psyrri

Monastiraki’s busy square is one of Athens’ key hubs, where people meet before hitting nearby bars and souvlaki joints. To the south sits the fascinating Ancient Agora, the city’s original civic meeting place, as well as the later Roman Agora. And to the north and west, creatively graffitied Psyrri may look dilapidated, but it’s one of the city’s liveliest quarters, plastered with epic street art, where countless restaurants and bars rub shoulders with warehouse conversions, workshops and contemporary galleries. If you thrive on the buzz of markets, set out early to explore Athens Central Market, and the streets around it.

View of the Acropolis from Plateia Monastirakiou | MILAN GONDA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

See for eating, drinking and shopping listings

Getting Around

Walking

Monastiraki meshes with neighbouring Psyrri, Thisio, Syntagma and Plaka, making it easy to stroll and soak up city-centre history and life.

Metro

Monastiraki metro station (blue and green lines) is the centre of the neighbourhood, a short walk to the Ancient and Roman Agoras and to Psyrri. Thissio station (green line) is also convenient for Psyrri. For the market area, Omonia (green and red lines) is closest.

THE BEST

CLASSICAL COMPLEX Ancient Agora

UNUSUAL ANCIENT STRUCTURE Tower of the Winds

FOOD MARKET Athens Central Market

BAR SCENE Central Athens

SHOPPING Plateia Avyssinias

1Top Experiences

 Ancient AgoraB6

1Experiences

1Roman AgoraD6

2Tower of the WindsE6

3Hadrian’s LibraryD5

4Church of Agios EleftheriosG6

5Athens CathedralG5

6Maria Callas MuseumH5

7Lit AthensB4

8TAFC4

9NormanC4

10Little KookC3

11Six d.o.g.s.E4

12NoelG3

13To Rodakio & FotagogosG3

14Booze CooperativaG3

15Tales of AlesF3

16Dude BarG4

17Shedia HomeF3

18Church of KapnikareaF4

5Eating

19Café AvissiniaC4

20A Little Taste of HomeB4

21PhilosopheatG5

22MaiandrosD5

23EATERYF4

24KostasF4

25FeyrouzF3

26Falafellas (Athens)F3

27LukumadesF4

28O ThanasisE5

29NikitasC3

30Krasopoulio tou KokkoraC3

31BandieraC3

32AtlantikosB4

33KalimeresC3

34AvliD2

35KlimatariaC1

36L’ Arte del GelatoD3

37To Koulouri tou PsyrriC3

38Artos VenetisB2

39Karamanlidika tou FaniB4

40Athenian DeliB3

41Bougatsadiko ThessalonikiD3

6Drinking

42Luv N RollC4

43BackdooRA3

44Old Fashioned BarD3

45Styl & Cafe LtdC2

46Juan Rodriguez BarE2

47TranzistorD3

48MokkaE1

49Kafeneio IvisB4

50A for AthensD4

51Couleur LocaleC4

52City ZenF5

53FaustF4

7Shopping

54Yiannis SamouelianC5

55MartinosE5

56Mon CoinB4

57Olgianna MelissinosC5

58KartousaC3

59Pan-PolE2

60A.antonopoulou.artC2

TOP EXPERIENCE

Ancient Agora

From the 6th century BCE, the Ancient Agora was Athens’ commercial, political and social hub. Socrates expounded his philosophy here, and St Paul preached here to win converts to Christianity. Today it’s a green respite with a beautiful classical temple, fascinating museum and Byzantine church.

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S.BORISOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PLANNING TIP

The most reliable entrance is on Adrianou; the south entrance opens only at peak times. Site clearing starts 30 minutes before closing. Late in the day, visit Temple of Hephaistos and Stoa of Attalos first.

Scan for background, opening hours and prices. Buy tickets and get a downloadable guide at hhticket.gr.

Stoa of Attalos

As you enter the Agora, make your way first to the magnificent two-storey Stoa of Attalos, dating from the 2nd century BCE. You’ll spot its columned portico built by King Attalos II of Pergamum as a shopping arcade containing 42 shops. Originally its facade was painted red and blue, and people gathered here to watch the Panathenaic Procession.

Inside, Agora Museum displays the best of the 160,000 items uncovered during excavations, demonstrating the agora’s uses: ancient voting ballots, coins, terracotta figurines. Get panoramic views from the upper level – retreat here if a tour group crowds the lower level.

Church of the Holy Apostles

Continue to the southern side to this charming little church built in the 11th century to commemorate St Paul’s 49 CE teaching in the Agora. Following the style of the time, its external brick decorations mimic Arabic calligraphy. It contains several fine Byzantine frescoes, which were transferred from a demolished church.

Walking northwest, you’ll pass the ruins of the circular Tholos, where the heads of government met, and the New Bouleuterion (Council House), where the Senate met.

QUICK BREAK

Touristy cafes line Adrianou. Spread across a key corner, Dioskouri (map) is good for drinks. Go an extra block to A Little Taste of Home for a delicious lunch.

Temple of Hephaistos

On the Agora’s western edge, linger at the striking Temple of Hephaistos (pictured), a prime photo op: it is the best-preserved Doric temple in Greece, and you can get quite close. Built in 449 BCE by Iktinos, one of the architects of the Parthenon, it was one of the first buildings of Pericles’ rebuilding program; dedicated to the god of the forge, and surrounded by foundries and metalwork shops. It has 34 columns and a frieze on the eastern side depicting nine of the Twelve Labours of Hercules. One of the reasons for its great preservation is that for 600 years, up until its deconsecration in 1934, the temple functioned as the Church of Agios Georgios. In 1922–23 it sheltered refugees from Asia Minor – period photos show families hanging laundry among the pillars and tents erected at its base.

WALKING TOUR

Walk Monastiraki & Psyrri

Walk the area around Monastiraki station – the Acropolis above, souvlaki aromas wafting from Mitropoleos, fruit vendors hawking the best of the season and pedestrian lanes lined with enticing shops. If you can, come on a Sunday morning for the flea market, and stay into the afternoon for a late lunch.

START

Plateia Avyssinias

END

Protogenous at Athinas

LENGTH

1km; two hours

1 Teeming Flea Market

Monastiraki Flea Market on Ifestou mostly has souvenir and fast-fashion shops, with the exception of cool Yiannis Samouelian Musical Instruments. Get the true flea feel on Plateia Avyssinias, where dusty palaiopoleia (‘old-stuff sellers’) rule. The best rummaging is on Sundays, when additional vendors lay out wares along Astingos and other nearby blocks.

2 Chilled-Out Arts Cafe

A few popular multiuse spaces in Psyrri and Monastiraki merge gallery, cafe and bar. One popular place is TAF, a clutch of barely restored 19th-century houses, with a garden courtyard for drinks, plus an excellent high-design souvenir shop.

3 Quirky Pallados & Protogenous Streets

These eclectic shopping streets mix traditional (rope dealers, handmade baskets) and contemporary goods, as at cool basement shop Color Skates (colorskates.com), where Athenians get their decks, and The Real Intellectuals (therealintellectuals.com), home to cool-cat retro motorcycle gear. Browse vinyl at nearby Syd (sydrecords.com).

4 Quick Break

On Protogenous, cool down at Kokkion (kokkion.com), a walk-up counter serving an excellent selection of artisanal ices, with especially rich fruit flavours. Or pop in next door to Peri Lesvou (perilesvou.gr), a deli carrying all manner of goodies from the island of Lesvos. Thirsty? Get a wee dram or coffee-based pick-me-up around the corner at Juan Rodriguez Bar.

5 Equestrian Crafts

Of all of Psyrri’s niche old shopping districts, the donkey-decoration district might be the niche-est. At tiny Chrisanthos, shop for beaded bridles and shepherd bells – or, if you don’t have a donkey, a set of worry beads. Around the corner, chic Mompso (mompso.com) caters to Athens’ horsey set.

6 Books & Art

Cross Athinas to find HYPER HYPO (hyperhypo.gr), a cool art and design bookstore; pick up locally published mags such as Skateism, Nomas and Desired Landscapes and check about any events in the basement gallery.

7 Top Street Food

When you get hungry, stroll down to pretty Plateia Agia Irini, to tiny Kostas and its excellent pork souvlaki. A lovely veg-friendly option a couple of blocks north is Feyrouz, which does a delicious meatless lahmajoun (flatbread topped with spicy paste and filled with vegetables).

WALKING TOUR

Walk Around the Central Market

The streets around the Athens Central Market (also known as the Varvakios Agora) are a sensory delight, all colour and bustle and noisy hawkers’ cries. Some of the best, most traditional Athenian food experiences are found here, and you can also feast your eyes on art at some very good galleries nearby.

START

Athens Central Market

END

Diporto Agoras

LENGTH

1km; one hour

1 Athens Central Market

Wander the huge wrought-iron Athens Central Market building, dating from the late 19th century, where hawkers sell meat and seafood from stalls packed with shiny-eyed fish and ruby-red lamb carcasses. For the best energy, come early in the morning or late at night, especially for the 24/7 tavernas – an Athenian institution for hangover-busting patsas (tripe soup).

2 Fruit & Veg Stands

Cross Athinas from the main hall to see where produce sellers set up every day. The vegetables are lovely to admire, as well as an indicator of what’s in season – and, hence, what to order at restaurants. Surrounding it all are dealers in olives and cheeses, as well as some deeply absorbing junk shops.

3 Bizarre Bazaar

After the market, cross Aristogitonos and pick through crammed bric-a-brac at aptly named Big Bazaar junk shop. Covering two floors, there’s room upon room crammed with precariously balanced treasures.

4 Regional Specialities

Plenty of stores sell traditional Greek foods, but Pantopoleion Kolios, around the corner on Athinas, stands out for its scope, stocking Santorini capers, boutique olive oils, Cretan rusks and homemade preserves. Pick up edible souvenirs plus Greek wines and spirits, baked goods and cheeses.

5 Spice Shops

Along the streets around the market, spice shops burst onto the pavement with chillies, dried rosebuds and candied ginger. Evripidou is the main street for spices: a couple of highly aromatic blocks of Mediterranean herbs and imported seeds, barks and other wonders. Fotsi (fotsi.gr) is the most picturesque, with burlap bags overflowing with hundreds of flavours and fragrances.

6 Meaty Treats

Taste spices in action at Miran (miran.gr), which specialises in cured meats, such as pastourmas (pastrami, but spicier). Karamanlidika tou Fani (karamanlidika.gr), a modern-day pastomageireio (combo tavern-deli), offers Greek cheeses and cured meats, as well as good seafood and rarer wines and craft beers. Each have tables to enjoy treats on the spot.

7 Hidden Trad Taverna

Tucked away in a cellar with no signage, Diporto Agoras is one of Athens’ most unique eateries. There’s no set menu, but the speciality is revythia (chickpea stew) followed by grilled fish, all washed down with cheap wine from giant barrels. An accordion player may show up. Alternastively, wander into Psyrri to check out the action there.

EXPERIENCES

Go Deeper at the Roman Agora Roman Ruins

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In 86 BCE the Romans attacked Athens, destroyed the city walls and took precious sculptures back to Rome. During three centuries of peace under Roman rule, known as ‘Pax Romana’, Athens continued to be a major seat of learning. The Romans adopted Hellenistic culture: many wealthy young Romans attended schools in Athens and anyone who was anyone in Rome spoke Greek.

You can see a lot of the Roman Agora (odysseus.culture.gr; adult/child €8/free), which was financed by Julius Caesar and was the centre of Roman life in Athens, from outside the fence, but it’s worth going in for a closer look. The main entrance is on the site’s western side. It’s marked by the impressive Gate of Athena Archegetis, formed by four Doric columns and erected between 19 BCE and 11 BCE. To the right, look for the outlines of what was a 68-seat public latrine, then continue on to the spectacular Tower of the Winds.

Examine the Tower of the Winds Historic Structure

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On the Roman Agora’s eastern side, seek out the ingenious and beautiful Tower of the Winds devised by Andronicus, a Greek Macedonian astronomer, early in 1st century BCE. Constructed from Pentelic marble, each of the tower’s eight sides is a compass point illustrated with a figure representing the wind from that direction. Look for sundial markings below the reliefs. It was once topped with a weather vane, probably a bronze figure of Triton. The stone roof, one of very few preserved from ancient times, is 24 stone panels.

Inside the tower you can see the original position of a water clock, once powered by a stream that flowed down from the Acropolis. Look out on the walls for a faint Roman drawing of a ship, a patch of a Byzantine angel fresco from the time it was used as a church, and Arabic calligraphy and a mihrab (prayer niche) from the late Ottoman period.

Imagine Hadrian’s Library Roman Library

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The Roman emperors, particularly Hadrian (2nd century CE), graced Athens with many grand buildings. You can visit the remains of the largest structure erected by Hadrian, Hadrian’s Library (odysseus.culture.gr; adult/child €6/free). The complex was laid out as a typical Roman forum, with a pool in the centre of a courtyard bordered by 100 columns. Not just a library, it also held music and lecture rooms. When you walk through, you’ll need to use your imagination, but the library’s west wall, by the site entrance, has been restored. Beyond are only traces of the library, as well as two churches, built in the 7th and 12th centuries.

Visit an Exquisite Byzantine Chapel Historic Church

Look closely at the 12th-century Church of Agios Eleftherios (map Google map), which is also dedicated to Panagia Gorgoepikoos (Virgin Swift to Hear), and you’ll discover Athens’ religious history in one tiny building. The cruciform-style marble chapel was erected on the ruins of an ancient temple and its exterior is a mix of medieval beasts and ancient gods in bas-relief, and columns appropriated from older structures. Inside, none of its original frescoes are preserved, but patches of paint remain on the marble door frame, another repurposed ancient piece. It now stands in the shadows of the much larger 1862 Athens Cathedral (map Google map), the current seat of the archbishop of the Greek Orthodox Church of Athens.

Today, you can see other prime Byzantine architecture at Church of the Holy Apostles in the Ancient Agora, Petraki Monastery in Kolonaki, and near Athens at Moni Dafniou and Moni Kaisariani. Browse art at the excellent Byzantine & Christian Museum.

Get Inspired at the Maria Callas Museum Museum

You’ll get great sensory rewards for an hour or two at the excellent Maria Callas Museum map Google map (mariacallasmuseum.gr; adult/child €10/free) dedicated to famous Greek soprano Maria Callas (1923–77). With close to a three-octave range, a career that dazzled and a life that titillated, Callas was both a musical genius and a worldwide celebrity. The museum does a superb job of walking you through memorabilia of her lifetime and fame: describing her family interactions through letters and career development through posters, programs, scores and gowns.

The upper floor features themed rooms dedicated to key roles, where you can listen to the master sing arias such as Verdi’s La Traviata from 1958 and Puccini’s Tosca from 1964. Save some time to listen to her 1971–72 masterclasses at Julliard, where she describes the minutiae of her techniques and the heart of her motivation, complete with sung samples. After, you can grab a drink in the ground-floor cafe.

Byzantine Rule

In the late 4th century CE, Christianity became the official religion of Athens and worship of the ‘pagan’ Greek gods was outlawed. After the subdivision of the Roman Empire into east and west, Athens remained an important cultural and intellectual centre until Emperor Justinian closed its schools of philosophy in 529. Athens declined and, between 1200 and 1450, was continually invaded – by the Franks, Catalans, Florentines and Venetians, all preoccupied with grabbing principalities from the crumbling Byzantine Empire.

Party Your Way Through Central Athens Cafes & Bars

Athens’ cafe and bar scene sprawls across Syntagma, Monastiraki, Psyrri, and into Keramikos and Gazi. The cafe-bars are seldom one-trick ponies. Start your day lounging over coffee and brunch along a small park at Lit Athens (map Google map; @lit.athens), watching the parade of people go by. Next, get a shot of art or a refreshing drink at TAF (map Google map; @taf_theartfoundation), a just-barely updated complex of 1870s brick buildings. The central courtyard is a cafe-bar that fills with an eclectic young crowd, and the surrounding rooms act as galleries, DJ space and an excellent souvenir shop. Then hit beloved Norman (map Google map; @norman.athens) for a creative cocktail on the go, before diving back into shopping.

Cafes and bars in Psyrri radiate out from Agion Anargyron and Sarri streets, making for chill coffee by day and lively cocktails by night. Take Little Kook (map Google map; facebook.com/littlekookgr) and its dazzling, seasonally changing fantasy decor. It’s easily the most Instagrammed spot in Athens after the Acropolis for its over-the-top props, paintings and bedazzling.

Go Out Around Agia Irini Square Arty Nightlife

Artsy bars surround Agia Irini Square and Kolokotroni street. You can start at the rustic, multilevel back garden at Six d.o.g.s. (map Google map; sixdogs.gr) – also a great retreat for quiet daytime coffee. Some major dance parties and live music happen here, or you might find an art event.

Noel map Google map (@thenoelbar) lives up to its name, with its sophisticated-party kind of Christmas; no Santa suits required. Sip your drink under softly glimmering chandeliers and sexy installations of gilded manikin limbs. Tucked away at the back is To Rodakio & Fotagogos (map Google map; facebook.com/ToRodakio), a charming bookshop and gallery.

Next door is Booze Cooperativa (map Google map; boozecooperativa.com), by day full of young Athenians playing board games, by night a bar that rocks till late. The basement hosts art exhibitions and there’s a theatre upstairs. Hankering after craft beer? Go a few blocks north to knowledgable Tales of Ales (map Google map; talesofales.gr).

Buzz until practically dawn at Dude Bar (map Google map; @dude_bar) which plays obscure funk and soul.

Get Involved at a Conscious Cafe & Art Outlet Cafe & Gallery

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Shedia (shediahome.gr), which translates as ‘raft’, is a great local charity working to serve people living in extreme poverty in Greece. It produces a monthly street-vendor magazine and the annual English version is on sale at its stylish cafe, bar and restaurant Shedia Home in Monastiraki. Unsold copies of the magazine are upcycled into an appealing range of papier-mâché homewares and accessories, all of which are also sold at the cafe, online and at some local gift shops. Contact them in advance via the website to arrange one of their Invisible Tours of Athens, guided by those who have experienced homelessness.

Discover the Surprise Church of Kapnikarea Church

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If you shop on Athens’ main commercial street Ermou, in the centre of Athens, you’ll pass large department stores, plus international and local boutiques – a brand-name shopper’s paradise. But you’ll also run smack into the small 11th-century Church of Kapnikarea, dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It stands bang in the middle of the Ermou shopping strip because it was saved from the bulldozers and restored by Athens University. Its dome is supported by four large Roman columns, and if it’s open, peep inside: most of the interior frescoes were painted by famous artist Fotis Kontoglou in 1955.

Sports in Athens

Athenians love team sports – you’ll see graffiti in their honour all over. Greece’s top football squads are Athens-based Panathinaikos (pao.gr) and AEK (aekfc.gr), and Piraeus-based archrivals Olympiacos (olympiacos.org). For match information, check club websites, English-language press or ticketmaster.gr. ‘Basket’ (basketball) is also a hit. Again, Panathinaikos (paobc.gr), AEK (aekbc.gr) and Olympiacos (olympiacosbc.gr) are the biggest. You’ll even find a merch store for Athens-born star Giannis Antetokounmpo (antetokounbros.com) in Athens Airport. Check schedules at basket.gr. Games are held at the 18,000-seat Athens Olympic Stadium or Piraeus’ Karaiskakis Football Stadium and Peace and Friendship Stadium (for basketball).

LISTINGS

Best Places for...

€ Budget €€ Midrange €€€ Top End

Eating

Monastiraki Comfort Food

Café Avissinia € €

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Classic bistro in the heart of the antique market for live music and varied mezedhes. Acropolis views from upstairs. 1pm-midnight Tue-Thu, from noon Fri-Sun

A Little Taste of Home € €

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It’s summed up in the name, with a range of global dishes – all delicious and fresh. 1-10pm Tue-Sun

Philosopheat € €

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Good, central spot on a narrow alley for Mediterranean (think Italian and Greek) paired with an extensive wine list. 1pm-midnight Tue-Sun

Maiandros € €

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A cut above the ho-hum tavernas along pedestrianised Adrianou, near the Ancient Agora. Friendly staff, and there’s live bouzouki music some nights. 10.30am-midnight

EATERY € €

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A welcome break for well-made, fresh Greek and Mediterranean meals. And on a hot day, their frozen cocktails offer a grand pick-me-up. 9am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat

Monastiraki Snacks & Street Food

Kostas €

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Arrive early at this pretty Plateia Agia Irini hole-in-the-wall for its excellent pork souvlaki or bifteki (seasoned hamburger). noon-6pm Mon-Fri

Feyrouz €

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A great veg-friendly option which does a delicious meatless lahmajoun (flatbread with spicy vegetables). noon-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat

Falafellas (Athens) €

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Sidle up to this window on Aiolou for scrummy falafels served up streetside. 11am-11pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat

Lukumades €

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Greece’s excellent morsels of crunchy fried dough doused in honey and cinnamon, or all manner of chocolate, fruit or ice cream. 8am-1am Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, 9am-1am Sun

O Thanasis €

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In the heart of Athens’ souvlaki hub, just off Plateia Monastirakiou; a good place to settle in and watch the street parade. It’s known especially for its mince kebabs on pitta. Service can be spotty. 9am-2am Mon-Fri, to 3am Sat & Sun

Psyrri Picks

Nikitas €

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Tried-and-true taverna serving reasonably priced, refreshingly simple and tasty traditional food since before Psyrri became a hot spot. noon-7pm Sun-Wed, to 11pm Thu-Sat; closed Aug

Krasopoulio tou Kokkora €

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Come here for consistent, flavourful and authentic taverna fare served in a homey dining room and streetside terrace. 12.30-11pm Sat-Thu, from 3pm Fri

Bandiera € €

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Reserve ahead for fresh, well-made Mediterranean dishes and a solid wine list in a slightly upmarket setting – perfect for date night. 1-11pm Tue-Sun

Atlantikos € €

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Tucked down a little lane, this small, hip fish restaurant is easy to miss – look for happy people chatting over heaps of shrimp shells. The atmosphere is simple and casual, with low prices to match. 1pm-1am

Kalimeres €

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Cheerfully spread across the walking lane with cool tunes floating on the breeze, Kalimeres is a superb low-key spot for brunches and all-day drinks and snacks. 9am-2am

Avli €

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Cheerful and borderline chaotic on weekend nights – squeeze down a narrow hall to reach courtyard seating. Keftedhes (fried meatballs) and the fries-and-sausage omelette are excellent drinking food. 1pm-2am Wed-Mon

Klimataria €

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A family-run restaurant in the heart of Athens that dates back a century and is known for its beautiful garden and regular performances of live Greek music. noon-midnight or 1am

L’Arte del Gelato €

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Ice-cream break! Or, more accurately, gelato time: the delicious flavours change based on what the workshop makes that day. 10am-12.30am or later

Psyrri Bakeries & Delis

To Koulouri tou Psyrri €

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If you’re lucky you’ll arrive as the city’s best orange cake comes out of the oven in a steaming tray. 24hrs

Artos Venetis €

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Heaping shelves of baked goods, from cookies to stuffed pies, plus chocolates and sandwiches, fill this quaint corner shop. 6am-8pm Mon-Sat

Karamanlidika tou Fani €

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Modern pastomageireio (tavern-deli) with deli cases alongside your table. Has a branch near Central Market. 1-11pm Tue-Fri, from noon Sat & Sun

Athenian Deli €

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Cheeses, meats, sweets, breads...the Greek artisanal products abound at this popular deli. Plus a few seats and wine cellar. 7.30am-3pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu-Sun

Bougatsadiko Thessaloniki €

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Good pites (pies), with filo crust that’s ‘opened’ (rolled out by hand) every day – you can watch the baker at work. Bougatsa (filo with custard) is great for breakfast, the meat pies are a treat after drinks, and spanakopita (spinach pie) hits the spot anytime. 7am-1am

Drinking

Psyrri Nights Out

Luv N Roll

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In the market for a tattoo or piercing? Or a delicious cocktail and small plate with a rooftop Acropolis view? This is the place for you, among Psyrri’s bars. noon-1am Tue-Thu & Sun, to 2.30am Fri & Sat, 6pm-1am Mon

BackdooR

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Louche, lovely and LGBTIQ+ friendly with great DJs, live music and shows, and delicious cocktails to boot. 7.30pm-3am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat

Old Fashioned Bar

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Small bar experience with soul tunes, Guinness on tap and friendly staff. Sit out on the pavement and watch the world go by. noon-3pm

Styl & Cafe Ltd

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Anchoring a great pedestrianised cafe-and-bar nexus around Agion Anargyron street – mellow coffees by day, bar by night. 8am-2am

Juan Rodriguez Bar

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Especially cosy in winter when you sidle up to the bar in the ornate interior. In summer, people-watch at the few tables set up across the street among the plastic- and tin-ware sellers. 10am-3am

Tranzistor

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Sidle up to the backlit bar or relax at tables outside at this small, cool spot. It’s one of a few good mellow bars on this narrow street. 9am-4am Mon-Sat, from 11am Sun

Trad Coffee

Mokka

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For peak energy, before you visit the Central Market, fuel up with a Greek coffee at Mokka – they use the traditional technique of brewing coffee on hot sand and serving it in copper pots. 6am-5pm Mon-Sat

Kafeneio Ivis

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This cosy corner place, with its bright arty decor, is for Greek coffee during the afternoon. It also has a small range of simple, freshly cooked mezedhes to pair with good ouzo and raki selections. noon-1am

Rooftop Bars

A for Athens

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The rooftop cafe-bar at this Monastiraki hotel is grand, with sweeping 360-degree views and usually a happening scene. 4pm-midnight

Couleur Locale

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In a Monastiraki arcade, a lift rises above The Project Gallery to this lively all-day bar-restaurant with Acropolis views. 10am-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat

City Zen

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Another rooftop veranda that’s a favourite meeting point to enjoy a coffee or a cocktail with prime Acropolis views (avoid the food, though). 9am-4am

Entertaining Bar

Faust

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Loud, raunchy, funny, just plain quirky: eclectic and popular bar Faust hosts it all on its small stage. Some events are free, others ticketed. 8pm-late Mon-Thu, from 5pm Fri-Sun, Sep-May

Shopping

Unusual Collectables

Yiannis Samouelian

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Wedged between generic stores on Ifestou in the Monastiraki Flea Market, this is the place to buy the bouzouki of your dreams. Dealing in musical instruments from around the world since 1928. 11am-8pm

Martinos

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This Monastiraki landmark opened in 1890 and has an excellent selection of Greek and European antiques, including painted dowry chests, icons, glassware and porcelain. 10am-3pm Mon, Wed & Sat, to 6pm Tue, Thu & Fri

Mon Coin

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Contemporary ceramics and a few other modern Greek craft products from across Greece fill this small shop. 10am-6pm Mon-Sat

Handmade Accessories

Olgianna Melissinos

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A scion of legendary poet/sandal maker Stavros Melissinos (along with brother Pantelis, who has a separate shop), Olgianna crafts custom-fitted sandals, smart belts and bags. Also designs to order. 10am-6pm Wed, Sat & Sun, to 8pm Tue, Thu & Fri

Kartousa

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Eclectic, folky handmade jewellery and homewares brighten this tiny storefront. 11am-8pm Tue-Sat, from noon Sun

Pan-Pol

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Whether you want a moss-green fedora or a non-touristy Greek fisherman’s cap, this dusty little shop has it. Most of the stock comes from a workshop upstairs. 10am-5pm Mon, Wed & Sat, to 7pm Tue, Thu & Fri

Art Galleries

A.antonopoulou.art

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Contemporary art changes regularly at this gallery in a warren of blocks with excellent street art. It’s also just around the corner from the gallery Alibi with its crew of edgy painters. 2-8pm Wed-Fri, to 4pm Sat

Explore

Syntagma & Plaka

The neighbourhood around Plateia Syntagmatos (Syntagma Square), the heart of modern Athens, is all business by day, but after the shops close scores of small restaurants and bars open. The square is overlooked by the Greek Parliament and adjacent to the lush National Gardens. Just a short stroll southwest is the heart of old Athens, Plaka, where narrow streets wind by neoclassical mansions and pretty tavernas. It’s ground zero for Athens tourism, but still home to lifelong residents. Spend the better part of the day here getting lost in its labyrinth of largely car-free streets, intriguing lanes and stairways.

A Plaka street | ADISA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

See for eating, drinking and shopping listings

Getting Around

Walking

Once in the area, it’s by far easiest to explore on foot, as lanes are narrow and parking scarce.

Metro

The Syntagma metro station (blue and red lines) sits at the heart of the city. You’ll emerge right at Plateia Syntagmatos, a short walk from Plaka. You can also walk to Plaka from Monastiraki station (blue and green lines) and Akropoli station (red line).

Tram

The trams to the coast (including Piraeus and Glyfada) depart from alongside Plateia Syntagmatos.

THE BEST

VISUAL RITUAL Changing of the Guard

HISTORIC NEIGHBOURHOOD Anafiotika

GREEN SPACE National Gardens

OPEN-AIR CINEMA Cine Paris

SMALL MUSEUM Jewish Museum of Greece

1Experiences

1Tomb of the Unknown SoldierF5

2ParliamentF5

3Grande BretagneE4

4National Historical MuseumD3

5National GardensF6

6Zappeio PalaceF8

7Aegli CinemaF8

8Roman BathsE7

9Stoa AnatolisB2

10Stoa EmporonD4

11Stoa PraxitelousC4

12Stoa PesmazoglouC1

13Stoa OrfanidouC1

14Canellopoulos MuseumA7

15AnafiotikaB7

16Church of Agioi AnargyroiB7

17Church of Agia EkateriniC8

18Church of the MetamorphosisA7

19Church of St George of the RockB7

20Museum of Greek Popular InstrumentsA6

21Benizelos MansionB6

22Jewish Museum of GreeceD7

23Naxos ApothecaryD4

24Bath House of the WindsB6

25Cine ParisC7

26Museum of Folk Art & TraditionC7

27Perivoli tou OuranouD8

28StamatopoulosB7

 Bartesera(see 11)

 Desired Landscapes Pocket Space(see 9)

 Metaxas(see 13)

5Eating

29Aspro AlogoC5

30Koutsou & CoD6

31The MakersB2

32Ergon House AgoraC5

33Tzitzikas kai MermigasD5

34AvocadoD6

35Vegan BeatB4

36SushimouD6

37NolanD5

38HanoiC5

39GranelloC4

40To KafeneioB7

41Winners VeganD6

42CreminoD7

43Solo GelatoC7

6Drinking

44Barro NegroC3

45ClumsiesC3

46Galaxy BarE3

47Baba Au RumB4

48OinoscentD6

49HeteroclitoC5

50Psyche Wine BarC4

51Seven JokersD4

52LoserD6

53BrettosC8

54Metropolis Roof GardenD5

55MelinaB6

56KlepsidraA6

 GB Roof Garden(see 3)

7Shopping

57Alexis PapachatzisB6

58Ioanna KourbelaC7

59Eleni Marneri GalerieD8

60Forget Me NotB6

61FlâneurC6

62AmorgosD6

63Aidinis ErrikosD6

64AnavasiD5

65FinewineB8

66Wine StoryD6

67AtticaE3

68ActipisD4

69ApriatiE4

70XylourisD1

71KorresD5

WALKING TOUR

Walk Plaka & Syntagma

Move away from the touristy lowlands of Plaka for a glimpse of old Athens – it’s virtually car-free – in narrow lanes winding up the northeastern side of the Acropolis hill, and in the maze of the Anafiotika quarter. Even modern Syntagma shows traces of history when you know where to look.

START

Mnisikleous, Plaka

END

Stadiou, Syntagma

LENGTH

2.4km; two hours

1 Scenic Staircase

Start out at perhaps the most photogenic street in Plaka, Mnisikleous, where cafes line a long staircase. Neighbourhood residents favour Yiasemi (yiasemi.gr) for its vegetarian breakfast buffet and its tempting cakes. Pull up a pillow and perch on the stairs – you’re part of the postcard now.

2 An Island in the City

Further uphill, the tiny Anafiotika area grew in the mid-1800s, when builders from Anafi mimicked their home-island architecture, all whitewash and geraniums. Look for Theorias, a very small street up from Pritaniou. Zigzagging back down the southeast side via Stratonos, you’ll pass a surprise olive grove/local park.

3 Byzantine Church

The 1031 Church of Sotira Lykodimou is open more regularly than other old churches here, and it’s the largest medieval structure in Athens. It has served as the Russian Orthodox Church since 1847, when Nikiforos Lytras, later famed for his portraiture, was hired out of the School of Fine Arts to paint the uncannily realistic icons.

4 Rarefied Escape

You don’t need to stay in the most prestigious hotel in Athens to enjoy its old-world grandeur. Built in 1862 to accommodate visiting heads of state, the Grande Bretagne, right on Plateia Syntagmatos, offers serene havens from the busy city centre: from high tea in its Winter Garden to rooftop refreshments in its Acropolis-view restaurant and bar, GB Roof Garden.

5 Coffee & Chocolate Fix

Downtown’s shopping arcades yield treasures like premium coffee shop, tiny Kaya. For dessert, stop at Aristokratikon (aristokratikon.com), which has been making fine chocolates since 1928. One speciality: candied citrus peel in dark chocolate. It’s part of the small nuts-and-sweets district centred on Karageorgi Servias.

6 History Underground

Tucked amid chain coffee bars, the entrance to the basement of Koraï 4 (facebook.com/korai4) is easy to miss. During German occupation in WWII the Gestapo used these rooms as holding cells, and the walls are scratched and sketched with messages from prisoners, like the recurring plea ‘I want water’.

7 Time Machine Bar

Another shopping-arcade secret: Galaxy Bar, a lovely vintage place that, when it opened in the 1970s, was considered truly modern because it had a proper European-style stand-up bar. Its current style can be summarised in the framed photos of the Rat Pack and Franz Kafka.

WALKING TOUR

Walk Central Athens

Boisterous, monument-packed central Athens is best explored on foot. The historic centre encompasses most of the major archaeological sites, museums, and Athens’ civic hub, Plateia Syntagmatos, which merges into the Plaka and Monastiraki neighbourhoods – soak up the highlights of city-centre life.

START

Plateia Syntagmatos

END

Monastiraki Flea Market

LENGTH

3km; three hours

1 Central Syntagma Square

Plateia Syntagmatos (Syntagma Square), considered the centre of Athens, has been a favourite place for protests since the rally that led to the granting of a constitution (syntagma) on 3 September 1843. Time your visit with the hourly changing of the guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in front of Parliament.

2 Gigantic Temple

Walk through the lush National Gardens for a spot of fresh air and greenery, exiting south to the striking Temple of Olympian Zeus, the remains of the largest temple ever built. Then, mosey out the gate and to the temple site’s northwest corner to gaze at Hadrian’s Arch, the ornate gateway erected to mark the boundary of Hadrian’s Athens.

3 Unusual Theatrical Monument

Cross Leoforos Vasilissis Amalias and walk up Lysikratous into Plaka, where you’ll find the Lysikrates Monument. Built in 334 BCE, it’s the only remaining example of the monuments that once lined this street to the Theatre of Dionysos, site of dramatic contests. The monument commemorates one chorus’ victory.

4 Atmospheric Neighbourhood

Leaving Lysikrates Monument, turn left and then right into Epimenidou. At the top of the steps, turn right into Stratonos, which skirts the Acropolis. Just ahead you’ll see the Church of St George of the Rock marking the entry to Anafiotika, a picturesque maze of whitewashed houses. Explore a bit, then continue past tiny Church of Agios Simeon to Theorias.

5 Views of the Ancient Agoras

Descend on pedestrianised Diaskouro where you’ll pass both the Ancient Agora on the left, and the Roman Agora on the right. They are the civic centres of classical Hellenistic Athens and Roman Athens, respectively.

6 Athens’ Cathedrals

Jaunt north to Plateia Mitropoleos, where you’ll find Athens Cathedral and its smaller, more historically significant neighbour, the 12th-century Church of Agios Eleftherios, which was built from bits and pieces of ancient temples and earlier Christian monuments.

7 Buzzing Flea Market

Cruise up Mitropoleos street and you’ll reach colourful, chaotic Plateia Monastirakiou. To the left down Ifestou is Monastiraki Flea Market, a gateway to shopping throughout the district.

EXPERIENCES

Watch the Changing of the Guard Tombside Ritual

An essential photo op is of the traditionally costumed evzones (presidential guards) flanking the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (map Google map), a cenotaph dedicated to Greek soldiers killed in war, which stands just below the neoclassical Parliament building (map Google map), originally the royal palace. Every hour on the hour the guard changes.

Evzones are also posted along Irodou Attikou, behind the Parliament building, and it’s fascinating to see them here, away from tourist cameras, going through their ritual pomp – even in the dead of night. On Sunday at 10.30am, a whole platoon, accompanied by a band, sets off from Irodou Attikou, and marches down Vasilissis Sofias to the tomb for the 11am ceremony. The evzones’ uniform of the fustanella (skirt) and pom-pom shoes reflects the attire worn by the klephts (the mountain fighters of the War of Independence).

Take High Tea or Sip Cocktails with Acropolis Views Historic Hotel

Athens’ most prestigious place to stay is – and has been for centuries – the Grande Bretagne map Google map (marriott.com), overlooking Plateia Syntagmatos. Housed in the city’s first ‘stadtpalais’, a majestic private residence built in the mid-19th century, it has been a hotel since 1874. The interiors ooze period charm, particularly the Winter Garden with its stained-glass ceiling, where you can have afternoon high tea, and Alexander’s Bar hung with a spectacular tapestry. You don’t need to treat yourself to enjoy a drink or meal at its chic Acropolis-view GB Roof Garden.

All About the Evzones

Greek male citizens aged between 18 and 45 do military service of between nine months and a year. Those at least 1.87m tall and in the best mental and physical condition are selected to become elite evzones. Established in 1867, the evzones were once Greece’s border guards, but today they are best known for standing guard at Parliament and the Presidential Palace. Their distinctive uniform incorporates elements representing Greece’s modern history – the 400 pleats in their fustanella (skirt) symbolise the liberation of Greece from centuries of Ottoman occupation. They wear a white uniform on Sundays and at official occasions, khaki in summer and navy blue in winter.

Learn about Modern Greek History Historical Museum

Nip into the handsome Old Parliament Building on Plateia Kolokotroni, where the National Historical Museum map Google map (nhmuseum.gr; adult/child €10/free) does a fine job outlining how the modern nation of Greece was created in the 19th century. The collection is eclectic, from old swords, ship figureheads and portraits of moustachioed generals to traditional jewellery and folk costumes. There’s also a copy of the famous oil painting The Massacre at Chios (1824) by Eugène Delacroix and the camp bed which Lord Byron brought to Greece and died on after contracting a fever in 1824 in Messolonghi. On the square outside the museum stands the bronze equestrian statue of Theodoros Kolokotronis, commander-in-chief of the Greek Revolution of 1821.

Stroll Through Historic Gardens Leafy Retreats

Seek refuge in the lush National Gardens (map Google map; cityofathens.gr; admission free), a pleasantly wooded park that makes a welcome shady escape from summer heat and traffic. It was designed by Queen Amalia for what was the royal palace and is today’s parliament building. Construction began in 1839, making it the first landscaped garden of modern Greece, and its general features remain unaltered. Tucked among the hundreds of types of trees, shrubs and flowerbeds are fish ponds and a playground for kids. Look out for resident birdlife, including parrots, ducks, geese and peacocks.

South of the garden are landscaped grounds cocooning Zappeio Palace (map Google map; zappeion.gr), used to host conferences and exhibitions. Inaugurated in 1888, this neoclassical building designed by Theophil Hansen is named after Evangelis Zappas, the tycoon who funded the first modern Olympics in 1896. Alongside the hall is open-air Aegli Cinema (map Google map; facebook.com/aiglizappeion).

Make Like an Archaeologist at the Roman Baths Roman Ruins

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Excavation work to create a ventilation shaft for the metro uncovered the well-preserved ruins of a large Roman Baths complex, built in the 3rd century CE where the Ilissos River once ran. Keep your eyes peeled: a portion is exposed at the edge of the Zappeio Gardens, and you can peer down from above.

Discover Athens’ Emblematic Arcades Architectural Features

Take any chance you get to duck into any stoa (shopping arcades) you see that cut through large buildings around Syntagma. You might find old-school ouzeries (places serving ouzo and snacks), speciality stores, a snazzy cocktail bar, and even an occasional pop-up DJ party. Stairs down to basement level are often fruitful too. You can take a guided walk of stoa with Natassa Pappa, publisher of Desired Landscapes magazine (desired-landscapes.com). Her Desired Landscapes Pocket Space map Google map is in Stoa Anatolis (map Google map).

Stoa Emporon (map Google map) sports interesting old signs that create a lit passage at night. At Stoa Praxitelous (map Google map), have a drink inside at Bartesera map Google map (facebook.com/bartesera), which captures Athens’ electric vibe. An arcade with a music focus, Stoa Pesmazoglou (map Google map) is home to Xylouris (xilouris.gr), a treasure trove of Greek music. One of the few arcades retaining its total commercial character, Stoa Orfanidou (map Google map) contains Metaxas map Google map (@metaxas_hatshop), a three-generation family hat store.

Potter Around Quieter Corners of Plaka Historic District

Plaka can be slammed by tourism, but with a little effort, you can slip away from it all. The neighbourhood is at its most photogenic on Mnisikleous where cafes, like Yiasemi, line the stone steps, and around Anafiotika (see right). Follow Theorias to the excellent Canellopoulos Museum (map Google map; camu.gr adult/child €3/free), which is often empty of other visitors. Feel like you’re touring your own collection of Byzantine art and jewellery, plus especially transfixing terracotta and bronze classical figurines. Note the mansion’s ceilings in the Byzantine wing.

Weave your way back down to Lyssiou to finish with a drink at Melina (cafemelina.gr), a cafe decorated with images of actress and politician Melina Mercouri. Prime outdoor seats offer a view of the Plaka parade.

Walk the Historic Anafiotika Enclave Historic Hamlet

Clinging to the upper northern slope of the Acropolis, this tiny residential quarter is a beautiful, architecturally distinct part of Plaka, called Anafiotika map Google map. In the mid-1800s, King Otto hired workers from Anafi to build a new palace. In their homes here, they mimicked their island’s architecture, all whitewashed cubes bedecked with bougainvillea. Today it remains a tight-knit area of about 45 homes, linked by unnamed footpaths just wide enough for pedestrians and roaming cats. Be respectful as you explore, as these are people’s homes. Enter on the western side near the Church of the Metamorphosis (see right) on Theorias. On the eastern side, zigzag up Stratonos.

View the Holy Flame Church

Modestly, quietly, tucked away in Plaka, the 17th-century Church of Agioi Anargyroi map Google map – also known as Metochi of the Holy Sepulchre – is worth visiting any time for its peaceful courtyard and beautiful interior decoration. However, if you’re in Athens on the evening of Orthodox Easter Saturday, follow the candle-holding crowds in this direction. A ‘holy flame’ is flown from the mother Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, and in a ritual said to be over a millennium old, the faithful pack out Agioi Anargyroi to light their candles from it.

Seek Out Plaka’s Other Small Churches Churches

One of the few very old Byzantine churches that is open regularly, Church of Agia Ekaterini (map Google map) is definitely worth a peek inside to see how an 11th-century space is still in vibrant use and adorned with bright frescoes. For a time it was the property of the Monastery of St Catherine in the Sinai Peninsula, which is how it took on that saint’s name. In the front yard are some Roman ruins.

Higher up, toward the Acropolis, keep your eyes peeled for the 11th-century Church of the Metamorphosis (map Google map) and Church of St George of the Rock (map Google map) built by Anafi islanders, both worth a peek if they’re open.

Listen to Classic Greek Music Music Museum

Immerse yourself in sound for an hour at the wonderful Museum of Greek Popular Instruments map Google map (odysseus.culture.gr; adult/child €2/free) on Diogenous. It houses a collection of almost 1200 folk instruments amassed by an avid ethnomusicologist. Listen on headphones to the gaïda (Greek goatskin bagpipes) and the wood planks that priests on Mt Athos use to call prayer times, among other distinctly Greek sounds.

Examine the Benizelos Mansion Landmark Residence

map Google map

For a pleasant quick, free diversion take a spin through 17th-century Benizelos Mansion (archontiko-mpenizelon.gr; admission by donation), the oldest in Athens. A typical domestic structure from that period, it has dirt-floor downstairs rooms with wine and olive presses and wood-panelled living rooms upstairs. Look for the repurposed classical columns in the gate leading to the backyard, formerly an olive grove.

Learn about Greek Jewish History Jewish History Museum

Athens’ Jewish community numbers nearly 3000 today but its roots go back thousands of years – some archaeologists even believe there was a synagogue in the Ancient Agora. Learn about the community’s history in the beautifully presented displays at the fascinating, small Jewish Museum of Greece map Google map (jewishmuseum.gr; adult/child €10/free), beginning with the Romaniotes of the 3rd century BCE, through to the arrival of Sephardic Jews in the 15th century, and beyond the Holocaust. Among the many fascinating stories to be learned here is that of Bishop Chrysostomos and Lucas Karrer, the mayor of Zakynthos, who conspired to save the 275 Jews who lived on the island from Nazi roundups.

Indulge with Natural Greek Cosmetics & Body Care Skincare Boutiques & Spas

The Naxos Apothecary map Google map (thenaxosapothecary.com) is a stylish contemporary shrine to age-old Greek island traditions of homeopathy and phytotherapy. On-site labs create creams and preparations to order. You can try out the unguents and smell the unique fragrances, and everyone is offered a cup of herbal tea. The tearoom and cafe upstairs is also a welcome urban retreat.

Other top Greek skincare and natural cosmetic products brands include Korres (korres.com) on Ermou (and at the airport) and Apivita (apivita.com) in Kolonaki, both of which are also available at pharmacies nationwide.

Catch the Feeling at Bath House of the Winds Historic Hammam

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Interested in Athens’ Ottoman history? One of the few remnants of Athens’ Ottoman period, the 17th-century hammam (Turkish bath) called Bath House of the Winds (mnep.gr; adult/child €3/free) is also the only intact historical public bath building in the city – though it unfortunately no longer functions as such. As a museum, though, you’ll see it’s quite attractive and atmospheric, with music, sound and a few projections conjuring its glory days as you stroll through the various rooms.

Enjoy a Film, Alfresco Open-Air Cinemas

Athenians love a balmy evening at the therina (open-air cinema). They are usually open early May to October, and you’ll enjoy the pleasures of watching the latest blockbuster, art-house flick or golden oldie under the stars. The settings are usually gardens and rooftops, with modern sound and projection.

For example, the Aegli is Athens’ oldest, in verdant Zappeio Gardens – it’s a bit quieter than others. In Plaka, Cine Paris (map Google map) is a renovated 1920s-era favourite with magical views towards the illuminated Acropolis. You can also browse the film poster shop out front.

Other top outdoor cinemas include, Thision, in Thisio with Acropolis views and Cine Dexameni, a lovely garden cinema in Kolonaki. Riviera is buried in the heart of Exarhia and Cine Flisvos is at the seafront in Palaio Faliro.

Immerse Yourself in Regional Folk Art Folk Museum

The 1920s mansion of folklorist Angeliki Hatzimichalis (1895–1965), who wrote more than a hundred books and articles about Greek traditions and was a guerrilla fighter in Epiros, is a window into the daily life of yore. It’s now the Museum of Folk Art & Tradition map Google map (cultureisathens.gr; admission free), and you can spend an hour exploring the pretty house, dipping into regional costumes, pottery, embroidery and more, and checking out family portraits.

Hear Live Greek Music over Dinner Live Music

Looking to hear some live local music, of the traditional sort? You can book in from Friday to Sunday at Perivoli tou Ouranou (map Google map; toperivoli-tou-ouranou.gr), a favourite Plaka music haunt with dinner (fixed menus €55 to €65). The atmosphere is busy and warmly welcoming, and musicians are usually excellent, both singing and playing bouzoukia (traditional guitar-like instruments).

Alternatively, you can book at the Plaka restaurant Stamatopoulos (map Google map; tamatopoulostavern.gr) which has been around since 1882. Here, you’ll hear live music from 7pm to 1am. It is now so legendary that it can feel a bit like a film set. The crowd – spread over two garden-like levels outside or in the cosy, mural-covered dining room inside – gets more local as the night wears on.

Athens Nightlife

Syntagma, Monastiraki and Psyrri all merge together to form a massive cafe-bar-pub crawl through central Athens. Pangrati has bar areas of its own. In summer, serious clubbing moves to glamorous, enormous seafront clubs radiating out from Glyfada where you should dress up to get in. The largest clubs (bouzoukia or pistes) are impressive venues that regularly feature the hottest names on the Greek contemporary laïka and pop scene, both genres based on the sounds of timeless Greek bouzouki. In winter, the clubs are on Iera Odos and Pireos streets. The Greek entekhno music scene is more subtle, with elements of Greek folk.

LISTINGS

Best Places for...

€ Budget €€ Midrange €€€ Top End

Eating

Syntagma Picks

Aspro Alogo €

map Google map

Humble in appearance, a simple doorway tucked among office buildings, this rustic taverna serves excellent examples of traditional Greek dishes. 11am-11.30pm Mon-Sat

Koutsou & Co €

map Google map

One of the most recent entries on the downtown scene, Chef Argyro rustles up delectable homecooked Greek classics. noon-7pm Mon-Thu, to 8pm Fri, 2-11.30pm Sat

The Makers €

map Google map

Wholesome brunch foods at this popular cafe that leans healthy and organic, and also sells a chic fashion line. 8.30am-8pm

Ergon House Agora € €

map Google map

Deli, cafe and restaurant occupying a light-flooded atrium. Greengrocer, fishmonger, butcher and bakery, plus shelves packed with top-quality Greek products sourced from small-scale producers. 7.30am-midnight

Tzitzikas kai Mermigas € €

map Google map

Greek merchandise lines the walls of this cheery modern place serving a tasty range of creative dishes, such as honey-drizzled, bacon-wrapped Naxos cheese, to a bustling crowd of locals and tourists. noon-midnight

Vegan & Vegetarian

Avocado €

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A full array of vegan, gluten-free and organic treats with an international spin at this long-popular cafe in Plaka. noon-11pm Mon-Fri, 11am-11pm Sat, noon-7pm Sun

Vegan Beat €

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Fast-food vibes, streetside, where you’ll dig into a short menu of freshly made vegan wraps, burgers and salads. 11am-10pm

Syntagma’s International Eateries

Sushimou € €

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Tokyo-trained chef Antonis Drakoularakos does wonders with local seafood. Sushi in Athens doesn’t get any better than this. 6-11.30pm Mon-Fri

Nolan € €

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Talented chef Sotiris Kontizas mixes Asian ingredients into creative dishes designed to be shared. Also excellent takeaway sweet treats. 1pm-5.30pm & 7-11.30pm Mon-Sat

Hanoi €

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Low-key and tiny on pedestrianised Petraki, with delectable pho, noodles, dumplings and other Vietnamese specialities. noon-midnight

Granello €

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Beloved traditional pizza tucked away on an alley behind the main drag of Perikleous. Sit at simple metal tables or take out. 1-11.45pm

Plaka’s Casual Bites & Ice Cream

To Kafeneio €

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One of the few solid tavernas in Plaka’s tourism zone. Grab a table on the flagstones or inside by the fire in winter. 10.30am-1am

Winners Vegan €

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People love the array of vegan, gluten-free and organic dishes with an international spin at this popular cafe. 11am-11pm Mon-Sat

Cremino €

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Cow and buffalo milk gelato and sorbet that’s intensely flavoured. Try the classic kaïmaki with Chios mastic resin and orchid root. 12.30-10pm Mon-Sat, from 2pm Sun

Solo Gelato €

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Welcome relief in the heart of Plaka for a fusion of Italian and Greek ingredients in artisanal gelato. There’s also a Kypseli branch. 10am-1am

Drinking

Syntagma Cocktails

Barro Negro

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Tequila and mezcal feature at this cocktail-eria on the fringe of the Syntagma/Monastiraki bar scene. 10am-2am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat, 6pm-2am Sun

The Clumsies

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Get happy sampling the inventive cocktail creations by award-winning mixologists at this multi-room cafe-bar. 10am-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat

Galaxy Bar

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Worn-at-the-edges but atmospheric time capsule (1972 to be exact) with gallant bartenders serving classic drinks, in a Syntagma arcade. 5pm-2am Mon-Sat

Baba au Rum

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As the name implies, the focus here is on rum drinks, with an excellent selection of rarer Caribbean rums and a whole range of other creative cocktails, from classic tiki drinks to new inventions. This is just one of a handful of good little bars on this strip. 7pm-3am Sun-Fri, 1pm-4am Sat

Wine Bars

Oinoscent

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The team at this wine shop-bar are wise in the ways of the grape, whether Greek or international. 5.30pm-1am Mon-Thu, from 1pm Fri-Sun

Heteroclito

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Wine bar with street seating showcases top local vintages, paired with Greek cheeses and cold cuts. 12.30pm-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1.30am Fri & Sat, 6pm-midnight Sun

Psyche Wine Bar

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Tucked away in a Syntagma arcade where you can pair great local wines with delicious small plates such as marinated mussels or salad with roasted peaches. 5pm-1am Mon-Fri, from 2.30pm Sat & Sun

Syntagma & Plaka Classic Bars

Seven Jokers

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Syntagma mainstay for coffee by day and drinking late into the night. Friendly bartenders, pumping music. noon-4am Tue-Sat, from 8pm Mon

Loser

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Teeny, with just a few stools out front, it fills up with chatting folks enjoying this quiet corner and on-point drinks. 7pm-3am

Brettos

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You may have to fight to order at Plaka’s busy historic bar and distillery. Sample its home wine, ouzo, brandy and other spirits. 10am-2am

Rooftop Bars

Metropolis Roof Garden

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Head to the top of luxe Electra Metropolis Athens Hotel for creative cocktails and inventive Mediterranean cuisine. 1-6pm & 7-11pm

GB Roof Garden

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Glam it up on the top of the Grande Bretagne hotel on Plateia Syntagmatos with radiant Acropolis views. 1pm-2am

Plaka Cafes

Melina

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A tribute to the great Mercouri, most famous for the film Never on Sunday. In fact that’s a great day to come here, when it’s very busy and prime outdoor seats offer a view of the Plaka parade. 9am-2am

Klepsidra

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Tucked away in a delightfully quiet spot on the west end of Plaka, with shady outdoor tables and friendly service, Klepsidra is a favourite with locals before and after work; it’s also an ideal rest spot after serious sightseeing. 9am-1am

Shopping

Plaka Fashion

Alexis Papachatzis

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This charming jewellery store is a delight: turn the handle on the window display and watch as gears and pulleys animate the scene. Papachatzis’ designs have a storybook quality: small figures, clouds and animals rendered in sterling silver, bronze and enamel. 10.30am-8pm

Ioanna Kourbela

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Classic, cool fashion by a Greek designer with a preference for natural fibres. Think elegantly draped cottons and silks in natural, warm tones and slouchy casual wear for the street. 10am-9pm

Eleni Marneri Galerie

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Sample rotating exhibitions of local modern art and some of the best jewellery in the city. Handmade, unusual and totally eye-catching. 11am-8pm Tue, Thu & Fri, to 4pm Wed & Sat

Plaka Design & Antique Shops

Forget Me Not

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Impeccable small store that stocks super-cool gear, from fashion to housewares and gifts, all by contemporary Greek designers. 10am-9pm

Flâneur

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Tightly curated collection of souvenirs and travel gear. Get your hand-stamped ‘φλανέρ’ (that’s ‘flâneur’ spelled in Greek) notebooks and your feta-tin patches or vinyl by Greek indie bands. 11am-8pm

Amorgos

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Charming store crammed with wooden toys, karagiozi (shadow puppets), ceramics, embroidery and other Greek folk art, as well as carved wooden furniture made by the owner. 11am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat

Aidinis Errikos

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Artisan Errikos Aidinis’ unique metal creations are made in his workshop at the back of this charming store, including small mirrors, candlesticks, lamps, aeroplanes and his signature bronze boats. 10am-5pm Mon, Wed & Sat, to 8.30pm Tue, Thu & Fri

Books & Maps

Anavasi

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Great travel bookshop with an extensive range of Greece maps and walking and activity guides. 9.30am-5pm Mon & Wed, to 8.30pm Tue, Thu & Fri, 10am-4.30pm Sat

Wine Shops

Finewine

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In the winding streets of Plaka, the finest wines can be found on this small lane with a small clutch of tables for sampling the wares. noon-10pm

Wine Story

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Just a wee slip of a place, it’s packed with local and international wines and a range of accompanying treats. 9.30am-9.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun

Syntagma Clothes & Jewellery

Attica

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Upmarket department store Attica carries some of the best local designers, and its sale racks are good for restocking your travel wardrobe. 10am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat

Actipis

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Spiros Actipis designs elegant jewellery using materials such as smooth pebbles, gleaming silver and raw leather. The shop closes during the summer, as Spiros decamps to Mykonos. 11.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat Nov-Apr

Apriati

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Tiny, delightful jewellery store with a tempting selection of fun, original contemporary designs from Athena Axioti, Themis Bobolas and other local designers. 10am-4.30pm Mon, Wed & Sat, to 8.30pm Tue, Thu & Fri

Music & Instruments

Xylouris

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Treasure trove of music run by the family of legendary Cretan composer Nikos Xylouris. They can guide you through the comprehensive range of Greek music CDs and DVDs, as well as help with a new bouzouki purchase. 10am-4pm Mon, Wed & Sat, to 8pm Tue, Thu & Fri

Organic Beauty Products

Korres

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Many pharmacies stock some of this popular line of natural beauty products, but you can get the full range at the company’s original location, where it grew out of a homeopathic pharmacy. 9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-7pm Sun

Explore

Kolonaki & Ilisia

Kolonaki is an adjective as much as a district: chic, stylish, elite. It stretches from near Syntagma to the slopes of Lykavittos Hill, where the panorama over the whole glittering cityscape out towards the sea is magical at sunset. Here, old money mixes with nouveau fashionistas and celebrities. The neighbourhood is packed with excellent museums and its verdant streets are lined with top boutiques. On its northeast flank, Kolonaki merges into Ilisia (sometimes called Hilton for its 1960s modernist hotel, which is due to reopen as Conrad in 2025), home to the shiny National Gallery and several top-ranked restaurants.

Lykavittos Hill | ARTMEDIAFACTORY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

See for eating, drinking and shopping listings

Getting Around

Walking

This area is easily walkable, though Kolonaki does slope up Lykavittos Hill.

Metro

Syntagma metro station (blue and red lines) is useful for the western edge of Kolonaki; Evangelismos station (blue line) for the eastern extents. Use Evangelismos if you’re heading to the National Gallery and stay on the blue line to Megaro Mousikis for the concert hall of the same name. A new metro is being built in Plateia Kolonakiou, the area’s main square, but is years away from completion.

THE BEST

CULTURAL MUSEUM Benaki Museum of Greek Culture

GOLDEN ICONS Byzantine & Christian Museum

VIEWPOINT WALK Lykavittos Hill

CYCLADIC MASTERPIECES Museum of Cycladic Art

(WINDOW) SHOPPING Kolonaki Boutiques

1Top Experiences

 Benaki Museum of Greek CultureC5

1Experiences

1Lykavittos HillF1

2Chapel of Agios GeorgiosE2

3Chapel of Agios IsidorosD1

4Funicular railwayE3

5Prasini TentaE2

6Sky BarE1

7OrizontesE2

8National GalleryH5

9Skoufa GalleryC5

10Zoumboulakis GalleryA5

11RomaB4

12CallirrhoëA2

13Megaro MousikisH3

14Theocharakis Foundation for the Fine Arts & MusicB5

15Vassilis ZouliasB5

16FanourakisE4

17ParthenisC3

18LemisiosB3

19KombologadikoA4

20Mastiha ShopA5

21Benaki Museum ShopA5

22SophiaC4

23Museum of Cycladic ArtD5

24ApivitaC5

25Michalis AlexandrakisF3

26Lousma Hammam & SpaF4

27Stone Massage Wellness LoungeD4

28Byzantine & Christian MuseumF6

29Aristotle’s LyceumE6

30The RunnerH5

31Petraki MonasteryH3

32Plateia DexameniD4

33DexameniD4

34Hadrian’s ReservoirD3

35Cine DexameniD3

36Cine AthinaiaF3

 Benaki Ghika Gallery(see 21)

5Eating

37CoconaC4

38Me KolonakiD5

39Piadina LumbroA3

40MpirimpiloF4

41M8C4

42NinnoloD5

43KostarelosE4

44FilippouE3

45PapadakisC3

46OikeioF4

47Nice n EasyB2

48VezenéH6

49NYX RooftopA3

50CookoovayaH5

6Drinking

51Dark Side of ChocolateA3

52Da CapoC4

53To TsaiA4

54Petite FleurB3

55Jazz in JazzD3

56Buñuel Uptempo BistroF4

57CV DistillerH6

58Junior Does WineH6

59KokkosG6

7Shopping

60Maison d’OliveE4

61Nora’s DeliH3

62CellierA5

63Gusto di GreciaB4

64KoraC3

65CarpoB5

66Kolonaki Weekly MarketF3

67Katerina IoannidisF4

68Elena VotsiD4

69Greek Designers StoreD3

70Crude SkateshopA3

TOP EXPERIENCE

Benaki Museum of Greek Culture

Spend several hours exploring three floors of this gorgeous neoclassical building showcasing the flagship Benaki Museum of Greek Culture. You’ll see a fraction of the treasures amassed by wealthy art collector Antonis Benakis – items from the Bronze Age up to WWII, presenting all facets of Greek culture through the ages.

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BAKUSOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PLANNING TIP

Thursday is a prime day to visit: the museum is open until midnight and free from 6pm onwards.

Scan for opening hours, prices and other branches of this great museum.

Ground Floor

Antonis Benakis was a politician’s son born in Alexandria, Egypt, in the late 19th century. After decades of collecting, in 1930 he turned the family’s house into this excellent museum. Benakis had such a good eye that even the agricultural tools are beautiful.

As you enter, in room 1 look for the flint-chip tools dating from 50,000–40,000 BCE, during the Middle Paleolithic period – maybe the oldest human-made object you’ll ever see.

As you make your way through the ground-floor galleries, perhaps the highlight is room 12, the last room, featuring masterpieces from Venetian-held Crete (15th–16th centuries). These include works by Domenikos Theotokopoulos (later known as El Greco, 1541–1614), and several by Theodoros Poulakis (1622–92). The Cretan School developed techniques still used in icons today: sharp outlines, a geometric depiction of fabrics and subtly highlighted skin tones.

First Floor

You can’t miss the Kozani Rooms. First you’ll pass through rooms dedicated to the wealth of 18th- and 19th-century Epiros, themselves quite dazzling, and you’ll emerge into two complete reception halls that have been relocated intact from mansions in neighbouring Kozani, Macedonia (northern Greece) – confections of carved and painted wood, and stained glass.

Also on the 1st floor, take your time examining room upon room of the finest and most intricately fashioned Greek traditional clothing. You’ll discover the diversity of the islands and the various regions of the mainland, including the Peloponnese, Epiros, Macedonia and Thrace. The spacious displays are interspersed with other priceless objects, such as carved marble door frames and jewel-encrusted Ottoman crowns.

QUICK BREAK

The Benaki’s relaxing cafe is renowned for good food and a terrace with views of the National Gardens and the Acropolis. Otherwise, pop over to one of Plateia Kolonakiou’s cafes, such as Da Capo.

Benaki Branches & Special Exhibits

A €30 pass is valid for three months for one visit to each of the Benaki Museum’s other branches, including the Ghika Gallery and atelier, Pireos 138 for contemporary art, the Museum of Islamic Art and the delightful Toy Museum, plus six other smaller sites. Also, check for excellent temporary exhibitions, such as the costumes for the film Poor Things, directed by Yorgos Lanthimos.

WALKING TOUR

Walk Kolonaki

If you’re familiar with any Greek celebrities, you might spot them on this walk around Kolonaki, the city’s most fashionable area. Promenade from cafe to boutique, and ascend Lykavittos Hill, admiring a parade of aristocrats and style icons, all focused on key Kolonaki goals: looking and feeling good.

START

Skoufa at Lykavittou

END

Plateia Dexameni

LENGTH

1.8km; two hours

1 Coffee Klatch

Start with an extended people-watching session – with coffee on the side – a Kolonaki pastime. Its historical roots are at Filion (filioncafe.com), where, to hear some tell it, decades of political schemes have been hatched (especially back when it was called Dolce). Now it’s where the neighbourhood’s old guard reads the day’s papers.

2 Grand Church

Stroll down the block and you can’t miss noticing Agiou Dionysiou Aeropagitou Church, named after Athens’ patron saint. It towers over a small plaza, and you can duck inside to see beautiful paintings by Spiros Vasiliou, splendid woodcarving by Theofanis Nomikos, and a giant chandelier that picks out the highlights in the glittery gold mosaic icons.

3 House Beautiful

Zigzag south to the beautifully restored 19th-century mansion designed by Ernst Ziller which now houses the Allouche Benias Gallery (allouchebenias.com). There are usually a few shows a year here, with contemporary pieces in all media by international artists and local talents alike.

4 Spa Day

Learn more secrets of the jet set around the corner at Apivita, the boutique for the Greek brand’s bee-based cosmetics and other products. A facial at the upstairs spa is a treat.

5 Traditional Taverna

If you’re feeling peckish head to Filippou, which is always packed with neighbourhood denizens enjoying the homestyle hits that this classic taverna has been dishing out since 1923. White-linen-covered tables spill into the courtyard; book ahead to ensure you get one.

6 Lykavittos Hill

From the top of Loukianou, follow the path up Kolonaki’s Lykavittos Hill for some of Athens’ best panoramas of the city and the Saronic Gulf beyond. Alternatively, take the funicular railway from the top of Ploutarhou, through the tunnel to the top.

7 Peak Experience

Perched on the summit of Lykavittos you’ll find the little Chapel of Agios Georgios. If you’re lucky, you’ll get here when a wedding is happening.

8 Shady Square & Ruins

Descend through cactus and pine to Plateia Dexameni. In the square’s northwest corner you’ll see the 2nd-century remains of Hadrian’s Reservoir, which brought water to the city from Mt Parnitha. Relax in the peaceful, shade-dappled square with a refreshment from the cafe Dexameni, before reentering the Kolonaki fray below.

EXPERIENCES

View the Sunset on Lykavittos Hill Hilltop Vista

Pine-studded, 227m Lykavittos Hill (map Google map; lycabettushill.com) provides one of the finest panoramas of Athens and the Attic basin. Perched at the top is the little Chapel of Agios Georgios (map Google map), floodlit like a beacon over the city at night. The tiny Chapel of Agios Isidoros (map Google map) in a nearby cave is one of the oldest in Athens, built after the city became the capital of Greece.

To reach the summit, follow the path uphill from the top of Loukianou, or ride the 10-minute funicular railway (map Google map; teleferik; return/one way €10/7; 9am-2.30pm) from the top of Ploutarhou.

As sunset bathes the city, enjoy drinks and nibbles partway up the hill at classy terraced bar Prasini Tenta (map Google map; prasinitenta.gr); it’s better than the summit Sky Bar (map Google map). Orizontes (map Google map) is the more upscale alternative, with an extensive wine selection.

Peruse the National Gallery’s Grand Greek Art Art Museum

After being shut for nearly a decade, the National Gallery map Google map (nationalgallery.gr; adult/child €10/free), in 2021, reopened in a state-of-the-art complex. The spacious, light-filled galleries are arranged chronologically and thematically, making a superb tour of Greek painting from the 19th century to the present, with some of the real masterpieces being in the 20th-century collection. There are also 16th-century works here by Domenikos Theotokopoulos, aka El Greco. You can’t miss a large section of Panayiotis Tetsis’ colour-drenched masterwork Street Market (1982) dominating the foyer.

On the upper floors, take in views from the enormous plate-glass windows to Lykavittos Hill. Back on the ground, stroll around the pleasant sculpture garden overlooked by the museum cafe. You’ll find the bulk of the sculpture collection at the National Glypthotheque Sculpture Gallery (adult/child €5/free) 5km northeast in Goudi.

Take in Theatre, Music & Opera Art & Performance Centres

When you book your trip, check what’s on at the Megaro Mousikis (map Google map; megaron.gr) – the city’s premier performance hall. They present an impressive annual program of entertainments, including classical concerts, opera, theatre and dance shows, featuring world-class international and Greek performers. There’s often some sort of art exhibition on here, and between June and September concerts are also staged outdoors in the complex’s back garden.

Also check the schedule at the large Theocharakis Foundation for the Fine Arts & Music (map Google map; thf.gr) on Kolonaki’s large boulevard Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias. This arts centre usually has good exhibitions spread across three levels of gallery space – they change around four or five times a year. They also have a modern theatre that hosts occasional classical music performances and other events.

Make Like a Fashionista in Kolonaki Shopping

People come from far and wide to shop Kolonaki’s outstanding selection of clothing, and visit its shoe and jewellery boutiques. There are the top slate of international mega-luxe brands (Chanel, Hermes etc), but also home-grown aces. For example, classic designer Vassilis Zoulias (map Google map; vassiliszoulias.com) crafts a couture line with colourful dresses inspired by the 1950s and ’60s, and elegant, feminine shoes. In a similar exquisite vein, Fanourakis (map Google map; fanourakis.gr) creates timeless jewellery.

Grab a coffee at Da Capo, a mainstay fashionista-watching cafe on the corner of pedestrianised Tsakalof. Then walk west to find Parthenis (map Google map; orsalia-parthenis.gr), where Orsalia Parthenis creates super-sleek clothes in natural fibres for both men and women. Pop just downhill to Lemisios (map Google map; lemisios.gr) on Lykavittou, which has been custom-fitting timeless designs – T-straps, ballet flats, elegant Oxfords (their only style for men) – since 1912.

TOP KOLONAKI ART GALLERIES

Among Kolonaki’s many great art outposts, some of the top include:

Skoufa Gallery

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(skoufagallery.gr) Long-standing anchor of contemporary Greek artists, just off Plateia Kolonakiou.

Zoumboulakis Gallery

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(zoumboulakis.gr) Stocks an excellent selection of prints and posters by leading Greek artists, including Tsarouchis and Fassianos, plus other decorative objects.

Roma

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(roma-gallery.com) Friendly staff at this gallery showcasing Greek and international artists.

Callirrhoë

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(callirrhoe.info) High-concept independent exhibition space for contemporary art.

Seek Out Subtle Souvenirs Greek Design Products

In addition to fashion, Kolonaki is home to some of the city’s unique shops for unusual souvenirs. Start on the edge of the neighbourhood at Kombologadiko (map Google map; kombologadiko.gr), selecting the perfect set of that old-school Greek accessory, komboloï (worry beads).

Continue along to the corner of Panepistimiou and Kriezotou, and you’ll find the Mastiha Shop (map Google map; mastihashop.com), where mastic – a medicinal resin from rare trees only found on the island of Chios – is the key ingredient in all the goods. The liqueur is a treat served as a digestive all over Greece.

Further up Kriezotou, shop for contemporary Greek arts and crafts, from ceramics and posters to kids’ toys at the Benaki Museum Shop (map Google map; benaki.org). Then wrap up at Sophia (map Google map; @sophia.enjoythinking.live) a few blocks northeast on Pindarou, browsing its striking selection of interior design objects, including replicas of classical statues.

Absorb the Mystery of Cycladic Art Sculpture Museum

Make a beeline to the first floor of the exceptional Museum of Cycladic Art map Google map (cycladic.gr; adult/child €12/free, special exhibits €16) for the world’s best collection of iconic marble Cycladic figurines, dating from 3000 BCE to 2000 BCE. They inspired many 20th-century artists, such as Picasso and Modigliani, with their simplicity and purity of form. Most of these mysterious figurines are small, though one is almost human size. The first floor also has a delicious farm-to-table cafe.

The rest of the museum features Greek and Cypriot art dating from 2000 BCE to the 4th century CE. You’ll find an interesting focus on how these objects were used, culminating in the 4th-floor exhibit, Scenes from Daily Life in Antiquity, where objects are set in photo recreations of ancient scenes. There are also great temporary exhibits.

Step into an Artist’s Home & Studio Painter’s Atelier

Get a fascinating insight into the life and inspirations of one of Greece’s great modern artists at the Benaki Ghika Gallery map Google map. Before he died in 1994, painter Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghika donated his home (benaki.org; adult/child €9/free) at Kriezotou 3 to the Benaki Museum. The living quarters and artist’s atelier remain just as they were during Ghika’s time and many of Ghika’s works are on display, including vivid sketches from his international travels. Also well worth the entry fee are three floors of galleries devoted to other influential 20th-century Greek artists, photographers, poets, actors and architects.

Pamper Yourself with a Spa Day Hammams, Facials & Haircuts

Begin your day at Apivita (map Google map; apivita.com) where honey and other bee-made elixirs are the wonder ingredients in natural beauty products. Settle in and try some of their herbal teas or head upstairs to hairdressers, a barber shop and spa. For one of the city’s top haircuts, though, book with Michalis Alexandrakis (map Google map; @michalis_alexandrakis). In the mould of the great Greek philosophers, Michalis operates one of the best hair salons in Athens and shares wisdom along the way – perfect if you need a tune-up while on the road.

Then pick your spa treatment. Lousma Hammam & Spa (map Google map; lousma.gr) is all about the hammam, with a side of massages, facials and rich aromatherapy oil treatments. Many like the couples massages. Or book ahead with Stone Massage Wellness Lounge (map Google map; @stone_massage_wellness_lounge) for Thai and Balinese massage styles and hot stone treatments.

Take in the Treasures of the Byzantine & Christian Museum Museum & Grounds

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Spend an hour or two at the outstanding Byzantine & Christian Museum (byzantinemuseum.gr; Apr-Oct adult/child €8/free, Nov-Mar €4), based in the 1848 Villa Ilissia, and crammed with religious art. The exhibition halls, most of them underground, are an expansive maze of glimmering gold leaf, mosaics and illuminated manuscripts. Follow the exhibits chronologically, charting the gradual and fascinating shift from ancient traditions to Christian ones, and the flourishing of a distinctive Byzantine style.

Stroll the villa’s grounds (admission free), next to Aristotle’s Lyceum map Google map (see below), for its formal gardens including ancient ruins, such as a section of the 6th-century BCE Peisistratos aqueduct. Relax in the pretty cafe overlooking it all.

Open Your Mind to Aristotle Ancient Ruins

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Bring your imagination to the site of Aristotle’s Lyceum (Lykeion; odysseus.culture.gr; adult/child €4/free), excavated only in 2011, where just the building outlines are visible – it is hallowed ground.

Aristotle (384–322 BCE), Plato’s student, founded his school here, outside the city walls, in 335 BCE. He worked in fields such as astronomy, physics, zoology, ethics and politics. Aristotle was also the personal physician to Philip II, King of Macedon, and tutor of Alexander the Great. At the Lyceum he taught rhetoric and philosophy, and the place became known as a Peripatetic School, because teacher and pupils would walk as they talked. In the same way, you can do a circuit around the ruins breathing the air perfumed by fragrant plants.

THE RUNNER

It took the artist Costas Varotsos six years to complete The Runner (map Google map), a 12m-high sculpture which stands in front of the old Hilton Hotel (now the Conrad Hotel). Thousands of jagged sheets of glass piled on top of each other create the dynamic shape of what really does appear to be a giant athlete running at speed. Also on the grassy traffic island is a 600-year-old olive tree, replanted here in 2013 from its original home in the village of Eliaionas.

Pay Your Respects at a Byzantine Monastery Historic Church

If you whetted your appetite for religious art and architecture at the Byzantine & Christian Museum – and you’re dressed modestly – you can also see Byzantine architecture in place at the historic Petraki Monastery map Google map (monipetraki.gr), which has existed for over 1000 years. The church in the middle of the complex is the oldest Byzantine church in Athens that’s still standing. In order to go in, men should wear long pants and have closed shoes; women need to cover their shoulders, and ideally be wearing a longish skirt. This monastery is the working home of the Holy Synod of the Church of Greece.

Hang out in Peaceful Plateia Dexameni Square

Why head halfway up Lykavittos Hill to Plateia Dexameni (map Google map)? First, to have a drink or meal at excellent open-air cafe Dexameni (map Google map) – this is one of Athens’ best cheap places to eat and a beloved neighbourhood institution. Next, Dexameni means ‘cistern’, which is what this square sits on. Hadrian’s Reservoir (map Google map) was built during Roman emperor Hadrian’s time and is part of a system that brought fresh water to the city from the Mt Parnitha foothills, 20km away. Look into the cistern through a remnant of the original arched portico.

Take in a Flick, Outdoors Open-Air Cinemas

Enjoy a summer’s evening watching a film outdoors in the heart of Athens. Cine Dexameni (map Google map; cinedexameni.gr; adult/child €6-8/5) is on the square of the same name, and the screen is surrounded by fragrant honeysuckle and cascades of bougainvillea. Settle in for the film in a deck chair, with a little table to rest your beer on.

If you prefer what’s playing there, you can choose Cine Athinaia (map Google map; facebook.com/cineathinaia.gr; adult/child €8/6) instead. It’s May to early October only. Set at the end of a short pedestrian street of pleasant bars, there are usually two screenings per night at around 9pm and 11pm – check online for the schedule.

LISTINGS

Best Places for...

€ Budget €€ Midrange €€€ Top End

Eating

Casual Eats in Kolonaki

Cocona €

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Delectible Turkish giozleme (flatbread) are fired fresh on the spot, and filled with savoury pastourmas (cured beef) and other goodies. 8am-4pm or 6pm Mon-Sat

Me Kolonaki € €

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Catch the chic street vibe at this fab, all-day cafe, perfect for breakfast, lunch or a light dinner; try the meatballs. 8am-11pm

Piadina Lumbro €

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Simple and delicious, pizzas made from scratch and hand-held wraps based on piadina, a round flatbread from Emilia Romagna. 8.30am-11pm Mon-Sat

Mpirimpilo € €

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Excellent home-style Greek cooking with top-quality ingredients at this traditional but not cliched taverna with welcoming staff. noon-12.30am

M8 € € €

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Tables on the lively pedestrianised lane off the edge of Kolonaki’s main square. Good for its high-concept Mediterranean fare, cocktails and wine. 8.30am-midnight Mon-Sat, 11.30am-10pm Sun

Ice Cream & Cheese

Ninnolo €

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Fun fact: Greeks eat the most dairy in Europe, averaging 30kg per person annually. Why not tuck into some artisanal ice cream (and summer sorbet)? 10.30am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat

Kostarelos €

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Long-established family dairy runs an elegant deli that caters to cheese lovers in all ways, whether it’s saganaki (fried cheese), fondue or creative sandwiches. 8am-9pm Mon-Sat

Tavernas, Old & New

Filippou € €

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Why mess with what works? Filippou has been dishing out Greek goodness – hearty meats, rich vegetables – since 1923, and it’s still a go-to for the neighbourhood. 1-5pm & 7.30pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 1-5pm Sat

Papadakis € € €

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Understatedly chic restaurant, run by a well-known chef and cookbook author, specialising in traditional seafood, such as salatouri (fish salad) and sea salad (seaweed). 1.30pm-midnight Mon-Sat

Oikeio € €

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With excellent homestyle cooking, this modern taverna lives up to its name (meaning ‘homely’). It’s decorated like a cosy bistro, and tables on the footpath allow people-watching. 12.30pm-midnight Mon-Sat

Vegetarian & Vegan

Nice N Easy €

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Dig into fresh organic sandwiches, salads, and vegan and gluten-free brunch treats beneath images of Louis Armstrong and Marilyn Monroe at this casual cafe. 9.30am-1am

Fancy Date Night

Vezené € € €

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In Ilisia, this top modern Greek bistro is a relaxed affair with delicious catch of the day and cuts of prime steak. 6-11.30pm

NYX Rooftop € € €

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It’ll be hard to focus on the refined Japanese fusion cuisine on top of Academias Hotel in Kolonaki with the competing wildly gorgeous Acropolis and Lykavittos Hill views. 5-12.30pm

Cookoovaya € € €

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Five chefs are the collaborators at this upmarket taverna-style restaurant in Ilisia that advocates ‘wise cuisine’, all freshly prepared fixed menus. 1pm-midnight

Drinking

Hot Chocolate, Coffee & Tea

Dark Side of Chocolate

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Tiny cafe known for hot chocolate and handmade truffles, displayed like gems under glass. There’s coffee, too. 8am-11pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat

Da Capo

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Anchoring the cafes on Kolonaki’s main square, it’s always mobbed. Unlike just about every other cafe in Greece, you have to order your coffee inside at the counter. 6am-10pm

To Tsai

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Get Zen as you sip from a vast range of teas from around the world at this minimalist tearoom and shop. 10am-4pm Mon, Wed & Sat, to 8pm Tue, Thu & Fri

Petite Fleur

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Reliably pleasant and serene with large mugs of hot chocolate and fancy coffees served in a colourful, shabby-chic setting. 10am-10pm

Whiskey & Cocktails

Jazz in Jazz

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Retreat to Kolonaki’s upper reaches at where this cosy bar stays warm with the sounds of New Orleans jazz and neighbours chatting over wine or whiskey. 8pm-3am, closed Jun-Aug

Buñuel Uptempo Bistro

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Welcoming and cheerful, this low-key cafe-bar serves up great, rich Area 51 coffee by day and cocktails by night. 9am-1.30am

Our Picks in Ilisia

CV Distiller

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Glowing and glamorous lounge for whiskey aficionados with top bottles from all over the world. Cocktails, too. 6pm-3am Mon-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat

Junior Does Wine

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It’s all in the name. Top interesting small-batch producers by the glass, paired with yummy nibbles. 6pm-12.45am Tue-Sun

Kokkos

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Tank up on excellent coffee at this storefront anchoring a street with bodacious pastry shops. 7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat, 10am-3.30pm Sun

Shopping

Foodie Stops

Maison d’Olive

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Worship at the temple of all things olive: from the fruit to the oil. Tastings and accompaniments, too. 10am-9pm Mon-Sat

Nora’s Deli

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Greek prepared foods and ingredients, with top tsoureki, a brioche-style bread flavoured with mastic and mahlepi (wild cherry bark). 9am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat

Cellier

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Greece’s best wines and liqueurs, with knowledgeable staff to explain. 10am-9pm Mon-Sat

Gusto di Grecia

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Treats from all over Greece, from cheeses to local honeys, cold cuts, olive oil and wine, available straight from the barrel. 8am-10pm Mon-Fri, to 9pm Sat, 11am-6pm Sun

Kora

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Hike uphill to the local go-to for croissants, sourdough loaves and cinnamon buns. 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun

Carpo

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Greeks love their nuts, and you’ll find some of the best in town here, including PDO pistachios from Aegina. 7am-9pm Mon-Sat

Kolonaki Weekly Market

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Kolonaki’s laïki agora (fruit-and-vegetable market, see laikesagores.gr) fills leafy Xenokratous with fresh produce, fish, olives, flowers and more. 7am-2pm Fri

Jewellery & Gems

Katerina Ioannidis

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From a family of goldsmiths, Ioannidis merges folkloric elements into jewellery that is light, elegant, bohemian and sometimes even a little funny: say, a gold-plated sheep’s head. 10am-6pm Mon, Wed & Sat, to 9pm Tue, Thu & Fri

Elena Votsi

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Votsi is renowned for bold designs using semiprecious stones. She designed the Olympic Games medals in 2004. 10am-3pm Wed & Sun, to 8pm Tue, Thu & Fri

Fanourakis

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Creative Greek jeweller designs delicate, quirky pieces: gold folded like pencil shavings, unicycle charms, and pavé diamond rings like jagged rocks. 10am-5pm Mon, Wed & Sat, to 9pm Tue, Thu & Fri

Design

Greek Designers Store

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Small outpost of an online portal (greek-designers.com) at the posh St George Lycabettus Hotel, stocking their bestselling clothes and accessories. 9am-9pm

Crude Skateshop

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Streetwear, decks, ball caps...this is the Kolonaki go-to for the skater-adjacent set. 10am-4.30pm Mon, Wed & Sat, to 8.30pm Tue, Thu & Fri

Explore

Pangrati & Mets

East of the Acropolis, the ruins of the Temple of Olympian Zeus lead to this pair of attractive residential districts bordering either side of the marble Panathenaic Stadium (called Kalimarmaro), built into Ardettos Hill. Pangrati to the north is a diverse neighbourhood, increasingly popular with young people and an international crowd for its low-key-cool places to eat, drink and shop. Mets, to the southwest and named for a brewery once headquartered here, is quieter, and characterised by some delightful neoclassical and prewar houses. Stone-carved funereal art is a feature of its cemetery – a lovely place for a quiet stroll.

Panathenaic Stadium | GEORGIOS TSICHLIS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

See for eating, drinking and shopping listings

Getting Around

Walking

Both Pangrati and Mets lie southeast of the Temple of Olympian Zeus and the National Gardens. They’re hilly but walkable.

Metro

The Evangelismos stop (blue line) is closest to Pangrati. Akropoli (red line) or Syntagma (blue and red lines) are closest to the Temple of Olympian Zeus. Akropoli is closest to Mets.

Trolleybus

For the least walking, trolleybus 2, 4 or 11; these stop near the Panathenaic Stadium and continue uphill to Plateia Plastira.

THE BEST

SPECTACULAR SITE Temple of Olympian Zeus

OLYMPIC MOMENT Panathenaic Stadium

CAFE-BAR SCENE Pangrati’s Squares

EUROPEAN ART MUSEUM Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation

UNUSUAL SCULPTURE COLLECTION Athens’ First Cemetery

1Top Experiences

 Temple of Olympian ZeusA4

1Experiences

1Hadrian’s ArchA4

2Panathenaic StadiumB5

3Basil & Elise Goulandris FoundationC4

4Athens’ First CemeteryA8

5EpireiaD2

6Lost AthensE3

7Eklekti ConfectionaryF5

8Threesome CeramicsD2

9Chelsea HotelD5

5Eating

10Mavro ProvatoD3

11AthenaisE2

12XatiriE2

13ColibriC6

14ElvisD5

15SoilC6

16SpondiC7

17The Vegan VandalD2

18Baba GhanoushD7

19Antonis SelekosF3

20MillybirdD3

21Foyer Espresso BarE6

22Odeon CafeA6

23SlothF5

24KallimarmaroC7

25ChocolateF7

26Ohh BoyD2

27MarabooE3

28Morris BrownC7

6Drinking

29ShakersD7

30BeniaminF4

311888 AthensE3

32Petite FleurD2

33Metz CafeA7

34Materia PrimaF4

35Wine Bar 33D2

36Half Note Jazz ClubA6

7Shopping

37Pangrati Weekly MarketF6

38ArmanidisF5

39La Vie en RoseC7

40Cat Black JewelleryD2

41HallelujahE2

42Chalk of the TownD2

TOP EXPERIENCE

Temple of Olympian Zeus

You can’t miss the mega-marvel, Temple of Olympian Zeus, smack in the centre of Athens. Once the largest temple in Greece, it probably ranks among the most drawn-out projects in history, begun in the 6th century BCE and finished in 131 CE.

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VIACHESLAV LOPATIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PLANNING TIP

If you’re rushed, you can see most of the temple (and Hadrian’s Arch) from outside the fence. Or peer down on it from the rooftop bar at Athens Gate Hotel.

Admission is part of the Acropolis combo ticket. Scan this code for more information.

The Temple

Admire these towering columns with capitals of acanthus leaves and scrolls marking the site of what was once the largest temple in Greece dedicated to the king of the gods (it’s also known as the Olympeion).

The temple was built with 104 Corinthian columns, each with a base diameter of 1.7m and standing 17m high. Only 15 remain upright, the rest having been repurposed over the centuries, so you’ll have to put your imagination to work to envisage the temple’s former scope. The one fallen column was blown down in a gale in 1852.

You’ll find the gate to the site off Vasilissis Olgas.

Construction

Begun around 515 BCE by Athenian tyrant Peisistratos, the temple was abandoned for lack of funds. Various other leaders took a stab at completing it, but it was left to Hadrian to finish the job around 125 CE, thus taking over 600 years in total to build. Hadrian finished the temple by placing a giant gold-and-ivory statue of Zeus inside. Then he matched it with an equally large one of himself. Maybe his immodesty jinxed it: the very next century, the temple was destroyed when the Herulians (a Germanic tribe from near the Black Sea) sacked the city.

Hadrian’s temple is built on the site of a smaller one (590–560 BCE), also dedicated to the cult of Olympian Zeus. Look closely: its foundations can still be seen.

QUICK BREAK

There is no cafe on-site (or shade: wear a hat and bring water when you explore). For a healthy pick-me-up, head to Veganaki, across the busy Athanasiou Diakou boulevard.

Hadrian’s Arch & Sanctuary of Pan

Outside the temple fence, spend a moment at Hadrian’s Arch. To the south, explorers can find a slip of the Ilissos River (elsewhere covered by pavement) and, nearby, a rock-cut sanctuary to the god Pan, another Roman-era worship site.

WALKING TOUR

Walk Pangrati & Mets

A stroll from the elegant Panathenaic Stadium around thriving Pangrati with its happening hangouts gives a real flavour of regular, vibrant community life and loops in area squares and highlights. Slide up and down the hills of Mets and you’ll reach the cemetery, a leafy marble-lined respite from Athens’ concrete.

START

Panathenaic Stadium

END

Athens’ First Cemetery

LENGTH

3.5km; two hours

1 Panathenaic Stadium

Even from the street, you’ll love the honey-hued marble Panathenaic Stadium, sprawling along teeming boulevard Vasileos Konstantinou. In 1895, after centuries of disuse, it was restored by wealthy Greek benefactor Georgios Averof – you can see his portrait carved in marble to the right of the entrance. It’s said that at Hadrian’s inauguration in 120 CE, a thousand wild animals were sacrificed in the arena.

2 Athens’ Best Art Collection

After you’ve taken some choice selfies, continue northeast around the stadium’s flank to Eratosthenous Street and the exquisite collection at the Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation. You can admire the elegant mansion housing top international art, or if you are an art lover, head inside.

3 Cafe- & Bar-Lined Square

Any evening is a good time to head to Plateia Proskopon where there’s something of a street party scene at the many good bars and restaurants. But assuming you’re walking through during the day, it’s still a good spot for a coffee or snack before heading onward up Archelaou. Find it by zigzagging about six blocks northeast from the Goulandris Foundation.

4 Window-Shop

Meander between Aminta and Archelaou streets for some of the area’s best window-shopping at small, eclectic boutiques and workshops. The area is also loaded with some of Pangrati’s best restaurants.

5 Fountain Square

Emerge from Archelaou and cross Spirou Merkouri, then zigzag three blocks to Plateia Mesologgiou where the water cascades in a central fountain alongside a kids playground and another clutch of good cafes and wine bars. It’s another prime spot to lounge and watch the world go by.

6 Shady Ice Cream Break

Cut southwest across the residential streets of Pangrati, taking in local life, until you reach lively, tree-filled Plateia Varnava where families dine in the tavernas and kids play in the square. You can get an ice cream at Morris Brown, a snack at a bakery, kick back over a drink, or just stroll on through.

7 Elaborate Tombs

Angle slightly northwest on Parmenidou, then walk about eight blocks further through Mets, skirting the edge of Athens’ First Cemetery to reach its entrance on Longinou. From about 8am to 8pm you can mosey inside the grand marble portal to walk its quiet paths, looking at the carved tombs where Greek luminaries are buried.

EXPERIENCES

Behold Hadrian’s Arch Monument

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Roman emperor Hadrian had a great affection for Athens and embellished the city with many temples and infrastructure improvements. As thanks, the people of Athens erected a monument of Pentelic marble in 131 CE: Hadrian’s Arch. It now stands on the edge of Leoforos Vasilissis Amalias, one of Athens’ busiest avenues, framing the Temple of Olympian Zeus. The inscriptions laud the new Roman era: the northwestern frieze reads, ‘This is Athens, the ancient city of Theseus’, while the southeastern frieze states, ‘This is the city of Hadrian, and not of Theseus’.

Make Like an Olympian at the Panathenaic Stadium Ancient Stadium

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Take your photo on a winners’ pedestal at the historic Panathenaic Stadium (panathenaicstadium.gr; adult/child €10/free), also known as Kalimarmaro. With its serried rows of marble seats – enough for 70,000 spectators – built into Ardettos Hill, it’s a top draw both for lovers of classical architecture and sports fans. Built in the 4th century BCE as an athletics venue, it was restored for the first modern Olympic Games in 1896. Now it’s occasionally used for concerts and public events. A ticket also gets you an audio tour and admission to a tiny exhibit on the modern Olympics (mainly eye-candy games posters).

You can also run laps or stairs in Olympic style here from 7.30am to 9am every morning. Sign a waiver (download from the website), and you’re good to go.

Olympic Backstory

The Olympic tradition emerged at the site of Olympia in the Peloponnese around the 11th century BCE as a paean to Zeus. Initially, it was footraces only, run by priests, priestesses and other notables. By the 8th century BCE, the festival had morphed into a major, male-only event that convened for five days every four years; the schedule alternated years with other regional competitions around Greece, a cycle referred to as the Panhellenic Games. This way, athletes could compete frequently. During the competition, city-states were bound by a sacred truce to stop any fighting underway. The ancient games ceased in 393 CE, when Emperor Theodosius I banned all pagan worship, and were revived in their modern form in 1896.

Get Running in Athens Jogging Routes

In addition to the high of running inside the Panathenaic Stadium, Athens offers myriad jogging spots. For example, you can also run a 500m racetrack on the stadium’s rim. It’s accessible only from the rear, through a green gate on Arhimidous Street. It’s free as long as you don’t enter the stadium.

The Apostolou Pavlou promenade is a huge cobbled pavement that runs from the Ancient Agora to paths on Filopappou Hill and the Dionysiou Areopagitou promenade. Also super-central, the National Gardens are a lush escape, with over 7000 trees. They close at sunset, though, so stay earphone-free then to hear the whistle signalling that the gates are closing.

If you’d like to head further afield, on the Athens Riviera, a promenade passes through Flisvos Marina, Palaio Faliro and Alimos to Glyfada. You can also swing into the large Stavros Niarchos Park.

See Top International Art at the Goulandris Foundation Art Museum

Revel in the magnificent art displayed at the Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation map Google map (goulandris.gr; adult/child €12/free), one of the world’s most valuable private collections, amassed by the late shipping magnate Basil Goulandris and his wife Elise. Enjoy pieces from the late 19th and 20th century by the likes of Cézanne, Van Gogh, Picasso and Bacon. A key work is a bronze cast of the famous Degas statue The Little Dancer. There’s also art by pioneering Greek painters, including Parthenis, Vasiliou, Hadjikyriakos-Ghikas, Moralis and the innovative sculptor Takis. Have lunch at the charming cafe here, with its enclosed, leafy courtyard.

The Goulandris Foundation has an 8m-long section of Street Market by Tetsis. See a larger section of the 50m-long masterwork at the National Gallery.

Stroll Athens’ First Cemetery Memorials

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Under Ottoman rule, Greeks buried the dead at their local church. Athens’ First Cemetery (admission free) was established after independence in 1821. Enter on Longinou to explore a peaceful place that doubles as a sculpture garden with its beautiful neoclassical memorials. Look for the Sleeping Maiden by Yannoulis Chalepas, the most admired Greek sculptor of the modern era. Famous people buried here include Nobel Prize–winning poet Giorgos Seferis, archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann, whose mausoleum is decorated with scenes from the Trojan War, and actress Melina Mercouri and her husband Jules Dassin.

Cemetery fans should also check out the one at Kerameikos.

Plateia Hop in Pangrati Coffees & Cocktails

Pangrati is one of Athens’ best neighbourhoods in which to chill in a cafe and slide right into evening bar and restaurant life. Hipsters and backgammon-playing oldsters mingle, and kids play in the squares across the district.

Plateia Proskopon, long and lush with trees, is rimmed by buzzing cafes like Epireia (map Google map; facebook.com/epireia) and bars like Wine Bar 33 (winebar-33.gr), sprawling onto terraces across the square. Just up the street are popular cafe-restaurant-bar Lost Athens (map Google map) and 1888 Athens.

Deeper into the neighbourhood, on Plateia Mesologgiou, lounge at Beniamin (@veniamin.ath) in a series of cafe-restaurants overlooking a playground and fountain; hit Sloth (@sloth.athens) for coffee and brunch or Eklekti Confectionary (map Google map; eklekti.gr) for luscious sweet treats.

You’ll be spoilt for choice at Plateia Varnava, where Shakers (@shakers_athens) bar holds down one section, but the leafy square also bustles with ice creameries, like Morris Brown (morrisbrown.gr), restaurants like Baba Ghanoush map Google map (see right; babaghanoush.gr) for vegetarian food, and bakeries like Kallimarmaro (@kallimarmaro.bakery.pastry).

Shop Cool Artisans in Pangrati Shopping

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Pangrati’s shops are eclectic, from the old-school coffee roastery at Armanidis, to Eleftheria Domenikou’s atelier. Domenikou is a ground-breaking designer for Pangrati, making minimalistic, elegant yet comfortable clothes and accessories. Visit her studio and shop Hallelujah (hallelujahdesign.gr) to see her work. She also cooperates with jewellery designers and stocks some other interesting accessories and gifts.

Just around the corner, visit the workshop of Viki Topalidou and Christina Papadopoulou, called Threesome Ceramics map Google map (threesomeceramics.com). You can see their pieces in progress and buy from their lines of cheerful, inventive pottery, which include the utilitarian and fantastical art pieces.

Hang Out Like a Local Cafe

Part of the art of life in Pangrati is just hanging out, talking, soaking up life. Chelsea Hotel map Google map on Plateia Plastira is a mainstay of the cool-cat scene. By day it’s coffee, books and laptops. When the sun goes down it’s standing room only. You can also pick up a souvlaki from Elvis (see right) next door and have a late-night nosh with your drink.

Check athensinsider.com, a neighbourhood magazine that covers activities all around Athens, to see what’s on at night in Pangrati.

LISTINGS

Best Places for...

€ Budget €€ Midrange €€€ Top End

Eating

Neighbourhood Picks

Mavro Provato € €

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Delicious dishes are paired with regional Greek wines at this popular mezedhopoleio (small plates restaurant). 1pm-midnight Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun

Athenais €

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Little more than a kitchen with a few stools – a friendly spot for fresh, quick Greek dishes like lentils or roast pork. 11.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat

Xatiri € €

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Neighbourhood favourite for its relaxed, welcoming vibe and top-notch steaks, pizzas and pastas. The menu is short, but everything is on-point. 7pm-1am Tue-Sat, 12.30-6pm Sun

Colibri €

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Locals come here for pizza and sociable tables on a tree-lined street. Pizzas range from classic Italian to creative vegetarian (seriously, the yoghurt works). Burgers and salads are also excellent. 6pm-midnight Mon-Fri, from 1pm Sat & Sun

Elvis €

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This mega-popular souvlaki joint is – in case the decor and name don’t give it away – dedicated to the King of Rock and Roll. Every skewer comes with good chewy bread and fried potatoes. noon-3am Sun-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat

Gastronomic Temples

Soil € € €

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Relaxed space with a fairy-light bedecked multilevel garden for a three-hour journey through 14 petite hyper-local courses, each a flavour and technique sensation. 6.30pm-1am Mon-Sat

Spondi € € €

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The dining benchmark in the Greek capital for more than a quarter of a century – world-class French cuisine and service earns a perennial Michelin star. 8-11.45pm

Vegetarian & Vegan

The Vegan Vandal €

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Pulled-jackfruit burgers, mushroom souvlaki and crispy cauli nuggets are just some of the vegan treats at this Pangrati pit stop. 4-11.45pm

Baba Ghanoush €

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No-frills but delicious, made-from-scratch vegetarian fare with a Middle Eastern slant. Think falafel and pitta. 5pm-midnight Mon, from 1pm Tue-Sun

Bakeries & Cafes

Antonis Selekos €

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Bespoke patisserie made right in front of you. Anthy’s favourite lemon pie is a must! 2.30-10.30pm Mon-Fri, from 11am Sat, 11am-9pm Sun

Millybird €

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Airy cafe dishing up top-notch baked goods, light snacks and robust coffees on a quiet street. 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun

Foyer Espresso Bar €

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Coffee aficionados flock here for delicious drinks with beans from around the world. Baked goods, too. 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun

Odeon Cafe €

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Slice of Athens life, where friends chat quietly, or you may get lucky and find someone jamming on the piano. 8am-1.30am Mon-Fri, 9am-2am Sat & Sun

Sloth €

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Tuck into rich brunches (pancakes, eggs Benedict, sandwiches) over strong coffee, or sip a cocktail in the evening, on Plateia Mesologgiou. 8am-midnight or 1am

Kallimarmaro €

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Exceptional spanakopita (spinach pie) and other pies at this neighbourhood bakery – it’s the breakfast go-to for many residents. Fills all your cream-puff needs, too. 6.30am-11pm Mon-Sat, 7am-10pm Sun

Chocolate €

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The name says it all: a party of chocolate goodies, plus Greek traditional sweets, and ice creams and granita. 8am-10pm, closed Jul & Aug

Ohh Boy €

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Coffee, and healthy eats and treats, from this on-trend cafe with a nearby organic food shop. 8.30am-midnight Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun

Gelato & Sorbet

Maraboo €

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This hole-in-the-wall ice-cream shop makes arguably the best homemade natural gelato, in classic and original flavours. 3pm-midnight Mon-Fri, from 1pm Sat & Sun

Morris Brown €

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Rich gelato from a Bologna-trained ice creamer, plus sorbets of Greek fruit, perfect for licking under the trees on Plateia Varnava. 8.30am-midnight

Drinking

Coffee or Cocktails

Shakers

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Popular, central watering hole that spills onto the pavement on Plateia Varnava. Great for coffee during the day and cocktails at night. 8am-1.30am Sun-Thu, to 2.30am Fri & Sat

Beniamin

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Friendly staff greet you at this casual spot on leafy Plateia Mesologgiou. They mix a mean cocktail and you can have a mezze on the side. 10am-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat

1888 Athens

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Tiny spot with a few bistro tables on the street, perfect for wine or beer, paired with delicious small plates. 4pm-1am Tue-Sun

Petite Fleur

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One of several nice cafes on pretty, green Plateia Proskopon, this airy, colourful place feels like a Parisian cafe, but with good cocktails. 9am-1am

Metz Cafe

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Coffee by day and drinks by night, with occasional live music, usually trending jazz and acoustic. Check the lineup on their facebook (facebook.com/metzathens). 9am-1.30am Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, to 10.30pm Sun

Wine Bars

Materia Prima

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Superb local wine bar on tree-lined Plateia Mesologgiou, with a branch in Koukaki, too. Top vintages, both Greek and international. 6pm-1.30am

Wine Bar 33

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The best option for wine on Plateia Proskopon, right in the mix of the busy cafe scene. Great for people-watching. 6.30pm-midnight Mon-Fri, to 1am Sat

Live Music

Half Note Jazz Club

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Check the schedule for your visit and head to Mets to hear top Greek and international jazz musicians. On Wednesday and Thursday, they often have a Nina Simone tribute show. It’s a cosy, unpretentious place geared to the music above all else. only opens for shows, closed in summer

Shopping

Trad Food

Pangrati Weekly Market

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Go deep into Pangrati to check out its Friday laïki agora (weekly produce market). It runs along Pirrou, starting at Ymittou and heading southeast. 9am-2pm Fri

Armanidis

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It’s fun to browse this old-school coffee roaster with accompanying bins of sweets, spices and nuts. 9am-5.30pm Mon, Wed & Sat, to 7.30pm Tue, Thu & Fri

Cosmetics, Fashion & Collectibles

La Vie en Rose

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The popular Greek chain by Dimitra Katsafadou makes luxe cosmetics, oils and scents for beauty and body care. 9am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat

Cat Black Jewellery

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Boutique with pretty, affordable pieces in silver, brass and semiprecious stones. 11am-3pm Wed, to 8.30pm Tue, Thu & Fri, noon-4pm Sat

Hallelujah

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Eleftheria Domenikou designs joyful, loose clothes and interesting accessories, plus offers other eclectic designers in her shop, too. 10.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-9pm Tue, Thu & Fri, 11am-6pm Wed & Sat

Chalk of the Town

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Back in antiquity all the monuments were brightly daubed in chalk paints such as those sold at this jolly little store. They also sell brushes, stencils and some nice gifts. Check online (chalkofthetown.gr) for paint workshops. 11am-6pm Mon, Wed & Sat, to 8.30pm Tue, Thu & Fri

Explore

Exarhia, Omonia & Kypseli

Grungy, glorious Exarhia is infamous for its squat scene, vocal anarchists and masses of graffiti. It offers a fascinating mix of students (it’s near the universities), creative types, immigrants, old lefties and intellectuals, against a backdrop of street art and riot police. The neighbourhood, which rises to Strefi Hill, is great for inexpensive dining, quirky shopping, casual bars and live music. The brilliant National Archaeological Museum is here, too.

    Busy Omonia square is a commercial hub that trends seedy in the wee hours. Southeast, three neoclassical buildings are its main draw. North, beyond Pedion Areos park, Kypseli has its groove back with the revival of its market and Fokionos Negri pedestrian strip.

See for eating, drinking and shopping listings

Lykavittos Hill, seen from Strefi Hill | TSUGULIEV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Getting Around

Metro

Omonia metro station (red and green lines) sits due west of Exarhia. Use Panepistimio station (red line) for southern Exarhia. For the National Archaeological Museum, use Viktoria station (green line) and walk 10 minutes.

Trolleybus

For the National Archaeological Museum, catch trolleybus 2, 4, 5, 9 or 11 from anywhere on Panepistimio and get off at the Polytechneio stop.

Walking

Kypseli is a 20-minute walk north of Exarhia on the far side of Pedion Areos, one of Athens’ largest public parks. Some streets can be a bit sketchy, so stay alert.

THE BEST

SCULPTURE National Archaeological Museum

HILLTOP VIEW Strefi Hill

NIGHT OUT Live music

REGIONAL FOOD Cretan Specialities

VEGGIE LIFE Exarhia Market & Vegan Restaurants

1Top Experiences

 National Archaeological MuseumE1

1Experiences

1Loverdos MuseumF5

2Exarhia Weekly MarketG2

3Athens AcademyF6

4Athens UniversityF6

5National LibraryE6

6Epigraphical MuseumE1

7PlastikourgeioH4

8KoukoutsiG5

9ZachariasG3

10O KavourasF3

11Feidiou 2 Music CafeE5

12An ClubE2

13RomantsoA5

14National TheatreA4

15RivieraF3

16VoxF2

17Olympia Municipal Music Theatre Maria CallasE5

18Kypseli Municipal MarketD1

19KickD1

20Au Revoir BarD1

21It’s a VillageD1

5Eating

22Ama Lachei stis NefelisG1

23Fine Mess SmokehouseG5

24AtitamosD2

25HayatH4

26Guerilla Chef BurgersD2

27I KritiD3

28RakoumelF3

29Oxo NouF3

30YiantesF3

31Stoa AlliosD4

32RozaliaF3

33Mama TierraD4

34Cookoomela GrillE3

35Bamboo VeganF3

6Drinking

36VenetiC4

37Taf CoffeeD4

38Beatniks Road BarE3

39RevoltE3

40AlexandrinoF3

41Tsin TsinE4

42NabokovG4

43TralalaG4

44ExostrefisH1

7Shopping

45Plan 59G3

46LoumidiC4

47KatalahouF5

48PoliteiaF5

49Travel BookstoreF5

50Comicon ShopE3

51Free Thinking ZoneG5

TOP EXPERIENCE

National Archaeological Museum

Make a pilgrimage to the world’s finest collection of Greek antiquities. The National Archaeological Museum’s treasures span from prehistoric to Classical periods – a comprehensive view of historic Greek art. It’s impossible to see all the exquisite sculptures, pottery, jewellery and frescoes in one go – whatever you do see will be a treat.

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HERACLES KRITIKOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PLANNING TIP

Pace yourself. The museum houses 11,000 artefacts in an enormous 19th-century neoclassical building. Allow at least a few hours, and more if you have a special interest.

Scan for prices and hours (note the 1pm to 8pm hours on Tuesdays).

Mycenean Antiquities

Directly ahead as you enter the museum is the prehistoric collection, showcasing some of the most important pieces of Mycenaean, Neolithic and Cycladic art, many in solid gold. Start with the fabulous collection of Mycenaean antiquities in halls 3 and 4. The great death mask of beaten gold is commonly known as the Mask of Agamemnon, the king who, according to legend, attacked Troy in the 12th century BCE – but this is hardly certain. Heinrich Schliemann, the archaeologist who set to prove that Homer’s epics were true tales, and not just myth, unearthed the mask at Mycenae in 1876.

The exquisite Vaphio gold cups, showing scenes of men taming wild bulls, are regarded as among the finest surviving examples of Mycenaean art. They were found in a tholos (Mycenaean tomb shaped like a beehive) at Vaphio, near Sparta.

Cycladic Collection

Don’t miss the Cycladic collection (hall 6) with its superb (and mysterious) white-marble figures from the 3rd and 2nd millennia BCE, which inspired xmodern artists such as Picasso and Modigliani. One splendid example measures 1.52m and dates from 2600 to 2300 BCE.

WHEN TO GO

Arrive early in the day to beat the rush. If you come after tour groups are moving through, head upstairs first and work your way back down.

Sounion Kouros

The galleries to the left of the entrance house the oldest and most significant pieces of the sculpture collection. The most dazzling by far is the colossal 600 BCE Sounion Kouros (hall 8), carved from Naxian marble, which stood before the Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion. Its style marks a transition in art history, developing beyond the rigid lines of older Egyptian carving to more lifelike qualities – including the so-called ‘Archaic smile’ – that the Greeks would come to build on in later centuries.

Artemision Bronze

Head to hall 15 for the incredibly precise, larger-than-life 460 BCE bronze statue of Zeus or Poseidon (no one knows which), excavated from the sea off Evia in 1928. The muscled figure holds his arms outstretched, his right arm raised to throw what was once a lightning bolt (if Zeus) or trident (if Poseidon).

Varvakeion Athena

In hall 20, admire the details on the statue of Athena, made in 200 CE: the helmet topped with a sphinx and griffins, a Gorgon shield and the hand holding a small figure of winged Nike (missing its head). Now imagine it all more than 10 times larger and covered in gold – that was the legendary, now-lost colossal figure of Athena (11.5m tall) that the master sculptor Pheidias erected in front of the Parthenon in the 5th century BCE. This daintier version is thought to be the best extant replica of that colossus.

JOINT TICKET

A joint ticket is valid for three days here and at the neighbouring Epigraphical Museum, plus the Byzantine & Christian Museum and the Numismatic Museum (nummus.gr).

Antikythera Mystery Mechanism

Among the precious discoveries made in 1900 by sponge divers off the island of Antikythera was the Antikythera Mechanism (hall 38), a geared device from the 2nd century BCE. A model of the elaborate instrument created in 2021 revealed how it calculated planetary positions as well as dates of eclipses and the Olympic Games, among other events. Who made the original remains a mystery.

Jockey of Artemision

In hall 21, find the dynamic statue of horse and young rider (pictured on here; 2nd century BCE) standing opposite exquisite works such as a statue of Aphrodite.

QUICK BREAK

Plan for a refreshment in the cafe in the serene courtyard garden dotted with ancient sculptures. You can also take a break at a cafe in the front plaza, or pop across the street to Coffee Lab (map).

Antikythera Youth

Continue to hall 28 to find the striking bronze Antikythera Youth, forged in the 4th century BCE. His hand once held some spherical object, now lost. The statue was discovered in a shipwreck off of Antikythera.

Egyptian Galleries

The two-room hall 40 and 41 presents the best of the museum’s significant Egyptian collection, the only one in Greece. Dating from 5000 BCE to the Roman conquest, artefacts include mummies, bronze figurines and beautifully evocative Roman-era painted portraits from caskets.

BERK OZDEMIR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Akrotiri Frescoes

Upstairs, hall 48 is devoted to the spectacular and incredibly old Minoan frescoes from a prehistoric settlement on Santorini (Thira). They were preserved by being buried by a volcanic eruption in the late 16th century BCE. The frescoes include Boxing Children (pictured top right) and Spring, depicting red lilies and a pair of swallows kissing in mid-air. Watch videos showing the 1926 eruption and the Akrotiri excavation. Also upstairs you’ll find a superb pottery collection, from the Bronze Age through Attic red-figured pottery (late 5th to early 4th centuries BCE).

FREE DAYS

Entrance is free on 6 March, 18 April, 18 May, the last weekend of September, 28 October, and the first Sunday of the month from 1 November to 31 March.

Panathenaic Amphorae

Hall 56 displays some of the ceramic vases presented to the winners of the Panathenaic Games. Each one contained oil from the sacred olive trees of Athens; victors might have received up to 140 of them. The vases are painted with scenes from the relevant sport (wrestling, in this case) on one side and an armed Athena Promachos (Athena as Champion) on the other.

LEFTERIS PAPAULAKIS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DID YOU KNOW?

The museum took shape in this spot between 1866 and 1889, with the facade designed by Ernst Ziller. The east wing expanded during the 20th century. In total, the museum has about 8000m of floor space.

WALKING TOUR

Walk Exarhia

On the one hand, Exarhia is known for its anti-capitalist politics and its squatted buildings. On the other, it has loads of shops, especially of collectors’ items and books, plus publishing houses. On this walk you can check out top Athens graffiti, thriving small businesses and squares, and enjoy unique refreshments.

START

Plateia Exarhion

END

Rakoumel

LENGTH

1.5km; one to two hours

1 Central Square

Start at triangular Plateia Exarhion, the centre of Exarhia life. It’s roped off for the construction of the new metro station and often guarded by riot police, but it’s still a prime people-watching site at any of its surrounding cafes, such as HBBH.

2 Street Art

Exarhia is plastered with street art, often with a pointed political message. Walk down Arahovis to Emmanuel Benaki, to find the No Land for the Poor Mural of a sleeping homeless man. It was made by by Indonesian-born and Athens-based artist Wild Drawing. See the map on his website (wdstreetart.com) for the locations of more of his works around the city.

3 Memorial of a Tragedy

Zigzag southwest to the corner of Mesolongiou and Tzavella and you’ll see a memorial for 15-year-old Alexis Grigoropoulos, the teen whose 2008 murder by police was a political flashpoint across the country. The police claimed the teen was an anarchist troublemaker, but eyewitnesses said the kid – who was from a rich suburb of Athens – had only been hanging out with friends.

4 Community Garden

Lest you think anarchism is all about riots and squats, on the corner of Navarinou and Zoodohou Pigis, Navarino Park is a reclaimed car park, which locals occupied and planted with greenery in 2009. It’s still maintained by the neighbourhood, and flourishes with a creative playground, steadily growing fruit trees and vegetable patches and, of course, street art.

5 Shopping Street

Continue up Zoodohou Pigis checking out some super-niche shops, such as Ode to Socks for local designer socks and Plan 59 for rare vinyl records.

6 Refreshments & Graffiti

Fuel up on yummy bakes and good coffee at the Black Salami Microbakery, before checking out more of the walls, alleys and stairways of Exarhia adorned with some of the world’s most creative graffiti, like the Strefi Hill stairs.

7 Sundown Hill

Climb Strefi Hill on the northeast side of the neighbourhood for a sundowner at outdoor cafe-bar Exostrefis. There’s sometimes live music from 10pm Wednesday to Saturday.

8 Cretan Dinner

Head back downhill for dinner at Rakoumel or Oxo Nou, both of which serve super Cretan food, featuring mountain herbs and slow-cooked meats. They’re just a block apart, so you could sample small plates at both.

EXPERIENCES

Tour the Gorgeous Loverdos Museum Mansion Art Museum

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Walking around this elegant Loverdos Museum (loverdosmuseum-bma.gr; admission free) you’d never guess that it was once a burnt-out shell. Completed in 1885, it was the home of Ernst Ziller, the German architect who designed hundreds of neoclassical buildings in Athens. From 1912 to 1934, banker and fine-art collector Dionysios Loverdos lived here. Damaged by a fire in 1980, it was a squat for many years before being meticulously restored.

The building is a work of art with striking decorative elements including murals, ceiling paintings, fireplaces, intricate mosaic floors and a carved-wood staircase – all a beautiful box for Loverdos’ collection of post-Byzantine religious art, including the Cretan and Ionian schools and handwritten manuscripts.

Shop Produce Markets Shopping & Eating

For many Athenians, the week isn’t complete without a trip to the Exarhia Weekly Market map Google map, which takes place along Kalidromiou every Saturday from early morning until around 2pm. Soak up the particularly atmospheric display of stallholders selling everything from fresh flowers and fruit to mountain-herb teas and honey. With rowdy traders working against lovely neoclassical buildings, this is one of Athens’ most atmospheric renditions of the laïki agora (weekly neighbourhood street market). Also look for the roving ouzo seller. You can camp at a cafe and spectate.

Other good weekly markets include Kolonaki Weekly Market, along leafy Xenokratous, and Pangrati Weekly Market at Pirrou and Ymittou; both are held on Friday mornings.

Admire the Neoclassical Triology Monumental Buildings

There’s no denying that the Athens Academy (map Google map) is one of the most eye-catching neoclassical buildings in the world. Cruise up Panepistimio to check it out, along with its two pretty neighbours. It was designed by Danish architect Theophil Hansen and completed in 1885. Athens’ most prestigious research institute has occupied the building since 1926. Its 10m Ionic columns are topped with statues of Athena and Apollo by Leonidas Drossis. Peek into the main hall at Christian Griepenkerl’s mural of Aeschylus’ Prometheus Bound.

Next door, Athens University (map Google map; uoa.gr) was completed in 1864 to a design by Christian Hansen, Theophil’s brother. Hansen’s building still serves as the university’s administrative headquarters and ceremonial hall.

The National Library (map Google map; nlg.gr), completed in 1902, is another dazzling design by Theophil. Visiting here is restricted to a quick peep in the entry hall.

Peruse the Epigraphical Museum Ancient Inscriptions

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You can spend a half-hour on the south side of the National Archaeological Museum, at the Epigraphical Museum (epigraphicmuseum.gr; adult/concession €4/2) – an important collection of Greek inscriptions. The main halls’ tersely labelled shelves of stones are uninspiring to the casual visitor. Two newer sections, however, give some background on the Greek writing system and show off the most historically revealing pieces, such as a third-century copy (or perhaps forgery) of the decree ordering the evacuation of Athens before the 480 BCE Persian invasion.

To decode some of the writing yourself, ask the staff for a sheet of ancient alphabet variations.

Browse Eclectic Exarhia Stores Shopping

As a bastion of long-time residents and local creatives, Exarhia offers an eclectic blend of interesting businesses, from modern design outlets to old-fashioned electronics manufacturers and old-school retail.

At a time when the world is worried about plastics and waste, Plastikourgeio (map Google map; plastikourgeio.com) is here to help – it stocks products made from recycled plastic or goods that help avoid the use of plastic in the first place. Tiny Koukoutsi (map Google map; koukoutsi.net) specialises in T-shirts, accessories and art prints with elegant Athens- and Greece-inspired graphics. Visit Zacharias (map Google map; zacharias.es), a workshop with silkscreen designs – some inspired by classical motifs – on leather notebooks, T-shirts and more. Comics fans will find zine stores in the area, including Comicon Shop on Solonos.

Listen to Live Music from Rembetika to Thrash Live Music

Athenians come to Exarhia for its offbeat bars, which dot nearly every block and often host music. The thriving music scene includes a powerful rembetika (bluesy songs from the early 20th century) tradition, and Exarhia is a great place to sample this soulful musical style.

One of Athens’ longest-running rembetika haunts is O Kavouras (map Google map) where the party goes until dawn. Find it in the basement of Diplo Cafe from around 10.30pm from Thursday to Sunday in winter (in general, indoor-only venues close in summer). From around 10pm, live-music sets at cosy Feidiou 2 Music Cafe (map Google map; facebook.com/Feidiou2) are also usually rembetika.

On the other hand, tight An Club (map Google map; anclub.gr) has been a live-rock beacon since 1987.

Other rembetika spots include Perivoli tou Ouranou in Makrygianni and tavernas in Athens Central Market.

BEST ENTERTAINMENT IN OMONIA & EXARHIA

Romantso, Omonia

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(romantso.gr) This all-day cafe-bar and workspace hosts DJs and live music gigs pretty much every weekend, as well as other events.

National Theatre, Omonia

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(n-t.gr) Contemporary theatre and ancient plays at this neoclassical beauty. Some productions have English subtitles, and tickets are reasonably priced.

Riviera, Exarhia

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(facebook.com/riviera.athens) Outdoor cinema in Exarhia with classic and art-house programming since 1969. The other is VOX (map Google map).

Olympia Municipal Music Theatre Maria Callas, Exarhia/Omonia

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(opanda.gr) Named in honour of the Greek diva, this grand theatre hosts opera, classical and popular music concerts.

Shop a New-Look Market Market

Kypseli means ‘beehive’ and the local hub of activity is Kypseli Municipal Market (map Google map; dak.com.gr) and Fokionos Negri street. The 1935 modernist market has been reinvented as a base for groups and pop-up shops aiming to make a positive social impact. You might happen upon a communal brunch, feminist fest or comic bazaar. Pop-ups range from Modistra Hopemade where sewn and textile wares benefit women who have been released from jail and Hōkō with sustainably made, minimalist homewares. Astiki Melissa sells honeys from all over Greece.

Hang Out in Kypseli Cafes & Bars

While in Kypseli, enjoy the neighbourhood’s lively cafe-bar life. The contemporary take on old-time kafeneia (coffee houses) are hipster hangouts such as Kick (map Google map; @kick.athens), a coffee shop on Sporadon that doubles as a concept store, where you can download recommended films and tracks while waiting for your iced latte. Drop into Au Revoir Bar (map Google map; facebook.com/AuRevoirBar), Athens’ classic watering hole where Frank Sinatra even had cocktails, or go to leafy Platia Agiou Georgiou (St George Square) encircled by cafes and bars, to be transported to Paris. The pick of the bunch is aptly named It’s a Village (map Google map; facebook.com/Bilatz).

LISTINGS

Best Places for...

€ Budget €€ Midrange €€€ Top End

Eating

Exarhia Picks

Ama Lachei stis Nefelis €

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Chill out in a lovely, lush vine-shaded courtyard with super-savoury small plates. 10am-11.30pm Sun-Wed, to midnight Thu-Sat

Fine Mess Smokehouse € €

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Smoked in beechwood fires, the meats – short ribs, brisket – at this joint are packed with succulent flavour. 4pm-midnight Mon-Fri, from 2pm Sat & Sun

Atitamos €

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Cheap and cheerful, this streetside mezedhopoleio (mezedhes restaurant) serves fresh, delicious small plates, from moussaka to dolmades (grape-leaf wraps). Save room for honey-dripping baklava. noon-midnight

Hayat €

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Hearty, well-spiced Kurdish eats, from the deceptively simple lentil soup to good-value kebabs and stews, all served with delicious chewy bread. 1pm-midnight Tue-Sun

Guerilla Chef Burgers €

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It’s really right in the name. Juicy old-school homemade burgers and not much else. noon-midnight Tue-Sun

Cretan Specialities

I Kriti €

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Cretans recommend this spot for rare seasonal treats such as stewed snails, bittersweet pickled volvi (wild bulbs), and tender baby goat with nuts and garlic. Reserve on weekends. 1pm-midnight Mon-Sat

Rakoumel €

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Home-cooked Cretan fare. Sip Cretan rakomelo (honey-infused liquor) while sampling small plates featuring mountain herbs and slow-cooked meats. 1pm-1.30am Tue-Sat, to 12.30pm Sun

Oxo Nou €

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This big, busy place was one of the trailblazers for super-casual and super-delicious Cretan food, and it still delivers. 1pm-1.30am

Greek Food

Yiantes € €

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Lovely restaurant – upmarket for Exarhia – with a central courtyard garden. The food is superb, made with largely organic produce. 1pm-midnight

Stoa Allios €

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Cheap-and-cheerful taverna with a well-lit front terrace and good grilled sea bass, feta and the like. 1-11.30pm Mon-Sat

Rozalia €

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On a lively pedestrian strip, this family-run taverna serves grills and homestyle fare. Mezedhes are brought around on a tray, so you can point and pick. Sit in the garden. noon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat

Vegan & Vegetarian

Mama Tierra €

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This beloved small vegan eatery incorporates produce from the local market in its long, international menu that ranges from bodacious salads and patties to linguine or dal, but also includes vegan versions of Greek staples like moussaka. Save room for the baklava, too. 1-10pm

Cookoomela Grill €

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Vegan souvlaki is the speciality here, from mushroom gyros to lentil kebabs, with all the fixings, of course. They also serve robust vegan burgers and salads that will keep you coming back for more. 1-11pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, 2-10pm Sun

Bamboo Vegan €

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Part of a health food shop, Bamboo Vegan serves up a short list of delicious vegan sandwiches and decadent baked goods, paired with coffees, tea and chai. It’s also got a couple of tables where you can feast on it all. 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat

Drinking

Classic Cafes

Veneti

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Legendary cafe Neon, famous haunt of Athens literati, now houses chain bakery-cafe Veneti. Upstairs, admire photography exhibitions from the Benaki. 6am-10pm

Taf Coffee

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One of the best of Athens’ third-wave coffee roasters, with distribution and daily blends. Sip a pour-over here, or grab a quick espresso at the front bar. 7am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat

Brews & Cocktails

Beatniks Road Bar

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Friendly, with good beers on tap, cocktails and occasional DJs and live music leaning towards blues and rock. 7.30pm-3am Sun-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat

Revolt

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This small, simple bar with tables spilling out onto a pedestrian street anchors a few solid blocks of lively nightlife. 11am-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat

Alexandrino

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Looks like a cute, tiny French bistro and serves excellent wines and cocktails. 4pm-3am Tue-Sun; closed Aug

Tsin Tsin

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Teeny, tiny and a bit out of the way on a little lane. The bartender knows the craft and the loungey feel is relaxing. 2pm-2.30am Mon-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat, 8pm-2.30am Sun

Nabokov

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Just what you expect in an Exarhia bar: literary leanings, retro music, a bit of food and customers who treat it like their lifelong haunt, even though it only opened in 2017. 1pm-2am

Tralala

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A creative set frequents quirky Tralala, with its glitter balls, original artwork, lively owners, gregarious atmosphere and music to match. noon-3am

Sunset

Exostrefis

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Climb any hill in Greece, and there’s usually a cafe. The one on Strefi Hill is a casual spot for a coffee or afternoon beer and small snacks, alongside neighbourhood regulars. noon-3am

Shopping

Vinyl, Baby

Plan 59

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Between this and Old School Records next door, your vintage vinyl needs are covered. Both stock a lot of jazz and psychedelia, while Plan 59 has more Greek music, as well as books and magazines. noon-3pm Tue-Sat & 5.30-8pm Tue, Thu & Fri

Foodstuffs

Loumidi

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From 1920, the Loumidis family built Greece’s famous Papagalo coffee brand, now owned by a conglomerate. The original shop lives on; a pretty little jewel-box version of the nuts-candy-coffee-tea store. 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat

Katalahou

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Carefully selected small batches of produce and other edibles that are grown or produced sustainably. 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat

Books & Comics

Politeia

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Large bookstore stocks plenty of English-language books, filed in the relevant sections. And because it’s on the edge of Exarhia, it’s brimming with political theory books. 9am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat

Travel Bookstore

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Good central place for maps and guides. 8.30am-5pm Mon, Wed & Sat, to 8pm Tue, Thu & Fri

Comicon Shop

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Browse a full range of Greek indie comics, graphic novels and zines. 10am-4pm Mon, Wed & Sat, to 7.30pm Tue, Thu & Fri

Free Thinking Zone

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Billing itself as Greece’s first activist bookshop and specialising in books on LGBTIQ+ issues, refugees, violence in society etc. It’s fun too, with a cafe and locally made souvenirs. 10am-7.30pm Mon & Wed, to 8.30pm Tue, Thu & Fri, to 4.30pm Sat

Explore

Filopappou Hill, Thisio & Petralona

Escape the heat or speed of Athens by chilling out at a quiet cafe or taking a stroll and finding yourself alone among lizards and ancient stones. Filopappou Hill offers eye-level views of the Acropolis from the top, as well as welcome green space, along with the Hill of the Pnyx to the north. Just beyond, the sedate Thisio neighbourhood is cut through with two fine pedestrianised streets, around which a pleasant cafe precinct flourishes. If you continue south to Petralona, you’ll find even more low-key residential lanes that make a nice change from the more heavily touristed centre.

See for eating, drinking and shopping listings

Church of Agios Dimitrios Loumbardiaris | RAWF8/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Getting Around

Walking

There are slopes to climb and descend but the districts’ pedestrian promenades and generally quiet back streets make it an ideal one to discover on foot.

Metro

Akropoli metro station (red line) sits near the Acropolis Museum side of Filopappou Hill, just off the major boulevard Leoforos Syngrou (also served by the Sygrou-Fix metro stop). The Monastiraki (blue line) or Thisio (green line) in the north serve Thisio. Petralona (green line) works well for the Petralona neighbourhood.

THE BEST

ATMOSPHERIC CHAPEL Church of Agios Dimitrios Loumbardiaris

CAFE LIFE Thisio

OFF-THE BEATEN TRACK Petralona

FOREST & SHRINES Filopappou Hill

DANCE SHOW Dora Stratou Dance Theatre

1Top Experiences

 Filopappou HillE4

1Experiences

1Dora Stratou Dance TheatreD4

2Hill of the PnyxE3

3National Observatory of AthensD2

4Hill of the NymphsD2

5Church of Agia Marina ThissionE2

6UbuntuC1

7SpookC1

8Cat CafeC1

96C1

10Herakleidon Museum Building AD1

11Herakleidon Museum Building BE1

12Melina Merkouri Cultural CentreC1

13Navarchou VoulgariC3

14ValitsaC3

15Pame ParankaC3

16ThisionE2

17ZefyrosC3

5Eating

18Merceri Food & DrinkD1

19To KousoulaD1

20FakidesD1

21Acropol VintageE1

22LemonanthosC3

 Agape(see 18)

 Artopolion(see 18)

6Drinking

23Φ BarD1

24Smoking BarrelsD1

25Slow DownC3

7Shopping

26Bernier/EliadesD1

27Yi CeramicsA2

 OR Handmade(see 7)

TOP EXPERIENCE

Filopappou Hill

Also called the Hill of the Muses, Filopappou Hill – along with the Hill of the Pnyx and Hill of the Nymphs – was, according to Plutarch, where Theseus and the Amazons did battle. Today the pine-clad slopes offer a relaxing stroll, excellent vantage for photographing the Acropolis, and a notable church and ruins.

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TONY_PAPAGEORGE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PLANNING TIP

Above the treeline, the hill is exposed – bring sunscreen, a hat and water, or, on wet days, rain gear. Pack a picnic to have under shady trees, or at sunset on the hilltop.

English-language placards placed at major features explain the rich ancient history of the hill.

Church of Agios Dimitrios Loumbardiaris

The beautiful marble-paved path, laid out in the 1950s by modernist architect Dimitris Pikionis, starts near the kiosk on pedestrianised Dionysiou Areopagitou. After 250m it passes, on the right, the intimate Church of Agios Dimitrios Loumbardiaris (facebook.com/agiosdimitriosloumpardiaris).

This 16th-century church may not be the oldest in Athens, but it is certainly one of the loveliest, with a timber roof, marble floors and a permanent scent of incense. It’s generally open from 8am to noon and 5pm to 8pm, when you can peep inside at the great 1732 fresco of St Dimitrios astride his horse in a pose copied from ancient images of Alexander the Great.

In 1648, the church was the site of a reported miracle. The Turks, ensconced on the Acropolis, prepared to fire a cannon on worshippers in the church, but the gunner was killed by lightning, saving the congregation. Hence its name, Loumbardiaris (‘of the cannon’).

Socrates’ Prison

Enter the cover of pines, with doves cooing, and follow the path to this warren of rooms carved into bedrock (on the left). Socrates’ Prison (pictured) is said to have been the place where Socrates was imprisoned prior to his trial in 399 BCE.

Socrates (469–399 BCE) taught his students to reason for themselves by asking probing questions. He was charged with corrupting the city’s youth, then jailed and sentenced to death by drinking hemlock. His legacy is a mode of reason based on eliminating hypotheses through questions – the so-called Socratic method. His star student was Plato, who in turn trained Aristotle.

During WWII, artefacts from the Acropolis and National Archaeological Museum were hidden in these caves to protect them from looting.

QUICK BREAK

Drop down to the cafes in Thisio, either on the main pedestrian route or on Iraklidon. Acropol Vintage is in the thick of the action. Or go to cafes near the Acropolis Museum.

Shrine of the Muses & Fortifications

Up the marble-cobbled stairs you reach a niche in the bedrock, the Shrine of the Muses dedicated to the goddesses of creative inspiration. Even today, grateful or hopeful artists place offerings on a small stone cairn. Ruins of 4th- and 5th-century BCE defensive walls crisscross the hill.

Monument of Filopappos

The 12m-high marble Monument of Filopappos marks the summit of the hill. It was built between 114 and 116 CE in honour of Julius Antiochus Filopappos, a prominent Roman consul and administrator. Look closely and you’ll see: the top middle niche depicts Filopappos enthroned; the bottom frieze shows him in a chariot with his entourage.

From the hilltop, take in sweeping views and the smoldering sunset.

SUNSET THRILLS

The summit gives one of the best views of the Acropolis, Attica and the Saronic Gulf – sunset and early evening offer spectacular light.

Athens Under Roman Rule

The story of Greece’s Roman rule began when a portion of Greece was first taken into the Roman Empire in 146 BCE. In 86 BCE Athens joined an ill-fated rebellion in Asia Minor staged by the king of the Black Sea region, Mithridates VI. In retribution, the Roman statesman Sulla invaded Athens and took off with its most valuable sculptures. As the province of Achaea, the Greek peninsula was officially under the auspices of Rome, but some major cities were granted limited self-rule.

It helped, too, that Romans revered Greek culture, so Athens retained its status as a centre of learning. Under the rule of Roman emperors Augustus, Nero and Hadrian, the city flourished. Hadrian considered the city his empire’s cultural capital and invested in a library, temples and an aqueduct. A period of relative peace, the Pax Romana, lasted in Greece until the middle of the 3rd century CE.

LAY OF THE LAND

Small footpaths weave all over the hill, but the paved path to the top starts near the periptero (kiosk) on Dionysiou Areopagitou.

WALKING TOUR

Walk Filopappou Hill, Thisio & Petralona

Filopappou and its neighbouring hills offer welcome green space, and the neighbourhoods of Thisio and Petralona are a short walk nearby, but a world away from the tourist drag. This stroll brings in an unexpected quieter side of central Athens, with plenty of chances to stop and take it all in.

START

2.8km; two hours

START

Filopappou Hill

LENGTH

Navarchou Voulgari

1 Filopappou Hill

Start this stroll at the foot of Filopappou Hill, near the kiosk at pedestrianised Dionysiou Areopagitou. The area was inhabited from prehistoric times to the post-Byzantine era. If you explore it a bit, visit its charming Church of Agios Dimitrios Loumbardiaris and climb to the summit with its sweeping Acropolis and Attica views, you can easily add an hour to this walk.

2 Crumbled Ruins like the Sanctuary of Pan

Walk beyond famous pedestrian street Dionysiou Areopagitou where it joins Apostolou Pavlou to wrap around the back of the Acropolis hill. As you see the tumble-down columns and scraps of ruins dotting the hillside, keep an eye to the left, among the rocks, and you’ll see the labelled Sanctuary of Pan 5th-century BCE worship site at the foot of the Hill of the Pnyx.

3 Sidewalk Flea Market

Continue along Apostolou Pavlou and you’ll reach the cafes of Thisio, and just beyond, on the edge of Thisio’s park and near the Thisio metro station, the ever-changing collection of street vendors selling their handmade jewellery and other cute souvenirs. It’s your chance to support local artisans.

4 Walking Street Views

Backtrack to Iraklidon, a relaxed, treelined promenade through the residential streets of Thisio. It’s a great spot for a coffee, lunch or drink stop, with its clutch of top restaurants and cafes, and usually just area residents going about their business.

5 Take a Break in Petralona

Walk south on Dimofontos for several blocks, working your way from Thisio and up into Petralona. You could take a moment at Eleni Koroneou Gallery or continue on to the cafes, restaurants and tap rooms starting around Valitsa. If you haven’t had a meal yet, these affordable, delicious restaurants are your spot.

6 Village-Like Lanes

Don’t miss what feels like a tiny village in the midst of Athens. Jaunt up Pallineon street a few blocks, then walk north on Timodimou until you reach the lanes radiating out from Navarchou Voulgari. These former workers’ houses were built in the middle of the 20th century. Wander, taking in the flower pots, bougainvillea and tidy homes.

EXPERIENCES

Take in a Traditional Dance Show Dance Performance

Between late May and September, one the best reasons of all for heading up Filopappou Hill is to attend the nightly performances of the Dora Stratou Dance Theatre map Google map (grdance.org; adult/child €20/10). This acclaimed company of dancers, singers and musicians stages classic Greek folk dances, showing off the rich variety of regional costume and musical traditions. You’ll find the open-air theatre on the western side of the hill.

Unwind on the Hill of the Pnyx Natural Hill

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North of Filopappou Hill, Hill of the Pnyx was the official meeting place of the Democratic Assembly in the 5th century BCE – really, the first site of democracy. You can see the speakers’ steps, where the great orators Aristides, Demosthenes, Pericles and Themistocles addressed assemblies. (More recently, politicians have used it for photo ops.) The hill is often empty, save for birds, so you can enjoy a peaceful hour or two and take in its view of the Acropolis’ front steps – it gives a real sense of the temples’ centrality to ancient Athenian life.

Stargaze from a Hilltop Observatory Observatory

Plan a bit ahead to visit the National Observatory of Athens (map Google map; noa.gr) on the Hill of the Nymphs (map Google map). Tours of the complex in English are available on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays, but you need to check the website for exact timings, which vary by month – or aim for a nighttime stargazing session.

The large marble building in the complex was designed by Theophil Hansen, the same architect responsible for the Athens Academy and National Library. The smaller domed building houses the Doridis telescope, which dates to 1902. You can walk up via Filopappou Hill or access it directly from Thisio.

Peisistratos the Dictator

The first seeds of Athenian democracy were sown when Solon became arhon (chief magistrate) in 594 BCE and improved the lot of the poor by forgiving debts and establishing a process of trial by jury. The reforms provoked unrest, and on the pretext of restoring stability, Peisistratos, head of the military, seized power in 560 BCE. He focused on Athenian might, building a formidable navy and extending the city’s influence. He began work on the massive Temple of Olympian Zeus, built a huge aqueduct and inaugurated the Festival of the Great Dionysia, the precursor to Attic drama.

Take a Peep at Church of Agia Marina Thission Church

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Striped like a multilayered cake and bursting with red-tile domes, the 1931 Church of Agia Marina Thission perches on the northwest side of the Hill of the Nymphs. Its murals, with a whiff of art nouveau, are lovely. Look inside for the much smaller chapel in the southeast corner, carved directly into the bedrock. It dates to the 11th or 12th century and has long been a site for health and fertility rituals.

Dip into Thisio’s Laidback Cafe Culture Cafes

Sun shining, neighbours out for a stroll, Thisio is one of the top Athens neighbourhoods for a chilled-out coffee or an evening drink, often with the Acropolis within view, especially around Iraklidon. A few of our favourites outside of the tourist fray include Ubuntu (map Google map; @ubuntu_thiseio), where friendly staff serve strong coffees and super baked goods, or pop around the corner to airy and welcoming Spook (map Google map; @spookcafebar) for equally good coffee, light brunch and meals. Missing your feline? Spend time with a surrogate at the Cat Cafe (map Google map; catcafe.gr). Just south, retro 6 (map Google map; facebook.com/6cafebistro) is one of those mainstay Athenian cafe-bars that shifts with ease from coffee and breakfast to cocktails and tapas.

Celebrate Ancient Technology Museum

Make the effort to visit the eclectic Herakleidon Museum collection (herakleidon-gr.org; adult/child €6/free), split over two locations in Thisio, to discover a unique take on the interrelation of art, mathematics and philosophy. Expect rotating exhibits on diverse subjects such as ancient robotic and computer technology, and shipbuilding. The museum also holds one of the world’s biggest collections of MC Escher artworks (though it’s not always on view).

In a restored mansion, Building A (map Google map) has a fascinating exhibition on ancient types of robot (automata), including one of a moving servant girl. Around the corner, the larger Building B (map Google map) focuses on weapons of war, including triremes, the ancient warships that allowed the Greeks to conquer the Persians at the Battle of Salamis.

Check Out Traditional Puppets & a Street Scene Free Museum

For anyone who loves the Greek tradition of karagiozi (shadow puppets), this free museum in an old hat factory – now called the Melina Merkouri Cultural Centre (map Google map; cultureisathens.gr) – is a treat. It’s packed with the creations of master puppeteer Haridimos (Sotiris Haritos). There’s very little English signage, but the displays tell their own stories. Upstairs you can amble through a mock street scene of ‘old Athens’, with shop windows of the typesetter, the photo studio, the barber and more.

Call ahead (210 345 2150) to see if they have a puppet show – there’s often one at 11am on Sundays.

Enjoy Peaceful Petralona Neighbourhood

West of Filopappou Hill, the pretty Petralona residential neighbourhood beckons for its bubbly social life on quiet residential streets.

Before hitting the cafes or restaurants, though, spend half an hour in the upper area of the district, called Ano Petralona. Somewhat unbelievably, it encompasses a small village within the heart of Athens concentrated on Kallisthenous around Aristragora and radiating out from Navarchou Voulgari (map Google map). The street is lined with small, village-style stone cottages that were built in the mid-20th century as workers’ housing by the architect Dimitris Pikionis, who also designed the paths on Filopappou Hill.

Top area eateries nearby include Valitsa (map Google map; @valitsa80), for superb home-cooked Greek fare surrounded by namesake suitcases. Another excellent entry in the clutch of great Petralona Greek eateries is Pame Paragka (map Google map; @pameparagka). Or grab a craft brew at Slow Down (see right; slowdownbrewing.gr) tap room, and do as they say (slow down).

Choose Between Acropolis View & Classic Filmhouses Outdoor Cinemas

As with each of Athens’ neighbourhood, Thiso and Petralona have their go-to outdoor cinemas. We love Thision (map Google map; cine-thisio.gr; tickets €7-9), across from the Acropolis. It’s a lovely old-style open-air cinema in a garden. Sit towards the back if you want to catch a glimpse of the glowing edifice. Tickets are cheaper if you attend Monday to Wednesday shows.

In Petralona, Zefyros (map Google map; tickets €7) is the cinephile’s outdoor cinema, running obscure international films (sometimes a tricky subtitle situation) and black-and-white favourites. Check their Facebook page or call 210 346 2677 for what’s on.

LISTINGS

Best Places for...

€ Budget €€ Midrange €€€ Top End

Eating

Thisio Picks

Merceri € €

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Creative kitchen creating delicate flavour combos such as tuna tartare with honey, anise and ginger. 6pm-midnight Wed-Mon

To Kousoula €

map Google map

Little dishes of home-cooked goodness in a casual corner eatery. 9am-1am

Agape €

map Google map

Fun wine bar that also serves delicious food – from omelettes to pork loin – and coffee. 9am-2am

Fakides €

map Google map

Hearty homemade pizzas served streetside at this jolly pizza bar. 9.30am-midnight

Thisio Cafes & Bakeries

Acropol Vintage €

map Google map

Thoughtful staff and occasional music nights in a prime spot on the promenade. 9am-2am

Artopolion €

map Google map

Cakes, sandwiches and kombucha or coffee at this low-key bakery. 7am-9pm Tue-Fri, from 8am Sat, 9am-5pm Sun

Petralona Picks

Lemonanthos €

map Google map

One in a clutch of excellent, affordable Greek eateries (see left) in a few-block radius. noon-1am

Drinking

Thisio Drinking Holes

Φ Bar

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Kick back with cocktails or brews on tap on this relaxed stretch of pedestrianised Iraklidon. noon-midnight

Smoking Barrels

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Let the mixologists and occasional DJs light you up at tables out front or in the courtyard. 6pm-1am Tue-Thu & Sun, to 3.30am Fri & Sat

Petralona Locales

Slow Down

map Google map

Grab one of their on-tap craft brews, from saison to stout, at this tap room. 6pm-1am or 2am Wed-Sun; closes for part of summer

Shopping

Art & Fashion

Bernier/Eliades

map Google map

Gallery showcasing prominent Greek and international artists. 11am-6.30pm Tue-Fri, noon-4pm Sat

Yi Ceramics

map Google map

Pick up lovely handmade pottery at this ceramic workshop and store in Petralona. hours vary

OR Handmade

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Shop reasonably priced, modern women’s fashion; each piece is a limited edition. 5-8.30pm Tue, Wed & Fri, 11am-3pm Thu & Sat

Explore

Keramikos, Gazi & Metaxourgio

One of Athens’ oldest neighbourhoods gets its name from the kerameis (potters) who settled on what were once the clay-rich banks of the Iridanos River around 3000 BCE. Today Keramikos is best known for its ancient cemetery. Gazi’s story is a contemporary urban one: industrial district is revived by creatives and bar owners. A decade or so passes, and the transformation continues into Metaxourgio, where new hipster hot spots are popping up. Gazi and Metaxourgio are primarily nightlife draws – including plenty of LGBTIQ+-friendly spots. By day there’s also some amazing street art worth seeing.

Kerameikos | MILANGONDA/GETTY IMAGES ©

See for eating and drinking listings

Getting Around

Metro

Kerameikos metro station (blue line) pops up in central Gazi. For Kerameikos archaeological site: Thisio station (green line). For Metaxourgio, better a longer walk from Kerameikos or Omonia (staying on Pireos St) than from Metaxourghiou station, as the route to Plateia Avdi passes through sketchy areas.

Taxis & Rideshares

Taxis wait in central Gazi, or call one with a rideshare app.

Walking

Metaxourgio at night is spooky on deserted blocks. Don’t stray into alleys east of Plateia Avdi, with open drug use and brothels.

THE BEST

ANCIENT CEMETERY Kerameikos

NIGHT OUT Gazi

CONTEMPORARY ART Benaki Museum at Pireos 138

OFFBEAT PERFORMANCES Treno sto Rouf

SPA DAY Hammam

1Top Experiences

 KerameikosE4

1Experiences

1Museum of Islamic ArtF4

2HammamG4

3Al Hammam BathsH6

4Museum of Traditional PotteryF4

5Ets Hayim SynagogueF4

6Beth Shalom SynagogueG4

7Benaki Museum at Pireos 138B6

8Mentis-Antonopoulos (‘Nema’) PassementerieC6

9TechnopolisD4

10Industrial Gas MuseumD4

11Old OSY DepotE4

12Athens Street Food FestivalE4

13The KissF2

14Praying Hands MuralH2

15Plato’s Academy Digital MuseumC1

16Treno sto RoufA6

17Lenorman Tobacco Processing PlantF1

18The BreederF1

19Rebecca Camhi GalleryG2

20One Minute Space (OMS)E1

21Coco-Mat.bikeC4

5Eating

22CTC Urban GastronomyE3

23AleriaF2

24SeychellesF2

25ElvisE3

26KanellaC3

27OinomperdemataC5

28Treis LalounD4

29LaikaC2

30KorovaE3

6Drinking

31GazarteD4

32MoMixC4

33BeaverB5

34Upupa EpopsC6

35A Liar ManC3

36AlphavilleE2

37Blue ParrotF2

38LatraacE3

39BeQueerC3

40ShamoneC4

41BigB3

42AfrikanaD4

43BiosF3

TOP EXPERIENCE

Kerameikos

Less-visited than some of Athens’ more famous ancient ruins, the lush, tranquil site at Kerameikos was used as a cemetery from about 1200 BCE to the 6th century CE. It’s worth the trip to see vividly carved grave markers and priceless sculptures which give a sense of ancient life.

map Google map

KIRK FISHER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PLANNING TIP

Admission is included in the Acropolis combo ticket, which you can buy at included sites around town, or online at hhticket.gr.

Scan for opening hours and to learn more about the site.

Archaeological Museum of Kerameikos

As you enter, don’t skip the small but excellent Archaeological Museum of Kerameikos, which contains remarkable marble stelae (grave markers) and sculptures from the site carved with vivid portraits and familial scenes. Look for the amazing 4th-century BCE marble bull from the plot of Dionysos of Kollytos, as well as funerary offerings and ancient toys. Outside, you’ll see the lifelike stone mountain dog.

Once inside the site proper, head for the small knoll ahead to the right, where you’ll find a plan of the whole burial ground.

Sacred Gate

You can spot the remains of the city wall built by Themistocles in 479 BCE, which is broken by the foundations of two gates; tiny signs mark each one. The Sacred Gate, now visible just in its foundations, was where pilgrims entered the city during the annual Eleusian procession. The gate marked the end of the Sacred Way, aka Iera Odos, which still follows a route west to Elefsina.

Dipylon Gate

Just northeast, the once-massive Dipylon Gate was the city’s main entrance and where the Panathenaic Procession began. From a platform outside the gate, Pericles gave his famous speech extolling the virtues of Athens and honouring those who died in the first year of the Peloponnesian Wars. It was also where the city’s prostitutes gathered to offer their services to travellers.

Between the Sacred Gate and Dipylon Gate is the foundation of the Pompeion, a dressing room for participants in the Panathenaic Procession.

QUICK BREAK

There’s no cafe or shop immediately close by; bring water or a bottle to refill from the tap by the museum. The best place for refreshments is at Gazi’s cafe-restaurants, such as Kanella.

The Great Panathenaic Festival

The biggest event in ancient Athens was the Panathenaic Procession, the climax of the Panathenaic Festival held to venerate the goddess Athena. Scenes of the procession are vividly depicted in the 160m-long Parthenon frieze in the Acropolis Museum.

WESTEND61/GETTY IMAGES ©

The Contests

There were actually two festivals: a relatively sedate annual one to mark Athena’s birthdate, approximately in July, and a grander one every fourth year. This Great Panathenaic Festival began with dancing, followed by athletic, dramatic and musical contests. Starting in the 4th century BCE, the Panathenaic Stadium hosted many of the athletic events, which included a pentathlon (footracing, discus and javelin throwing, long jump and wrestling), chariot races and the free-fighting match called pankration.

Winners were presented with amphorae (vase-shaped ceramic vessels) containing oil from Athens’ sacred olive trees; some of these are on display in the National Archaeological Museum.

RIVERSIDE ORIGINS

Uncovered in 1861 during the construction of Pireos Street, the site is named for the potters who settled it around 3000 BCE, then on the clay-rich banks of the Iridanos River.

The Panathenaic Procession

On the final day of the festival, the Panathenaic Procession began at Kerameikos’ Dipylon Gate, led by men carrying animals sacrificed to Athena, followed by maidens carrying rhytons (horn-shaped drinking vessels) and musicians playing a fanfare for the girls of noble birth who held aloft the sacred peplos (a glorious saffron-coloured shawl). During the preceding year, this select group of young women wove the peplos for the festival – a great honour.

The parade followed the Panathenaic Way from Kerameikos, cutting across the Ancient Agora and ending at the Acropolis. Not everyone was allowed to enter the Acropolis, but in the festival’s grand finale, the favoured few ultimately placed the peplos on the statue of Athena Polias in the Erechtheion.

Street of Tombs

Leading off the Sacred Way to the left as you head away from the city is this avenue (pictured on here) reserved for the graves of Athens’ elite, while ordinary citizens were buried in the surrounding areas. Surviving stelae are in the on-site museum and the National Archaeological Museum. What you see here are mostly replicas, but look for poignant details.

GET IN ALIGNMENT

In the middle of the site, align yourself with Iera Odos, the big road beyond the fence to the northwest – this will help you envision the gates and other buildings around the end of this historical road.

WALKING TOUR

Walk Keramikos, Gazi & Metaxourgio

The towering pylons of Gazi’s gasworks glow red at night, a beacon to party people. Streets beyond are chock-a-block with restaurants and bars, and the Keramikos and Metaxourgio areas have developed alternative-minded scenes – though abandoned blocks at night are not for the faint of heart or solo flyer.

START

Plateia Avdi, Metaxourgio

END

Elvis, Keramikos

LENGTH

1.8km; one hour

1 Squareside Warmup Cocktail

Start your evening on Plateia Avdi, at one of its cool cafe-bars like Blue Parrot. It’s the perfect spot to watch the world go by, with the loving mural overhead, called The Kiss.

2 Dinner Trip to the Islands

Across the square, Seychelles gets packed on summer nights. If you didn’t reserve, scoot in before the 9pm dinner rush. Check the handwritten day’s menu of super-fresh regional-Greek dishes, or ask the tattooed chefs in the open kitchen, if they’re not too busy. (The story behind the name: it’s a joke about the previous business here, a coffee house named Bahamas.)

3 Boho Bar Zone

After dinner, mosey about five blocks southwest into Keramikos, keeping your wits about you on the dodgier blocks, and find the pedestrian street of Salaminos, where Alphaville is just one on a strip of bohemian bars, all with a good mix of music, inexpensive drinks and loads of kefi (party vibes).

4 Gay Gazi

Gazi has grown into Athens’ biggest LGBTIQ+ scene. One of the newer clubs on the block, BeQueer, is super fun and welcoming. You can find it by walking from Salaminos down Megalou Alexandrou for six blocks and then turn right on Keleou.

5 Gazi-Centred Cocktails & Views

Walk a couple of blocks south on Triptolemou and you’ll reach Gazi’s central square. If you’re done, you can catch the metro here. But if you’ve got more gas in your tank, choose between hopping places such as MoMix for city-best cocktails, or see what’s on at the performance centre, Gazarte, just down the block, which also has a roof bar with Acropolis views.

6 Hot Jazz

If you’re still looking for music, check who’s playing at cosy Afrikana, a little converted house that crams in jazz and African bands on a stage in the back. It’s about three blocks east and the modest door fee usually includes a drink. They close in August, though.

7 Late-Night Snack

A classic Athens night out ends with souvlaki, even if it’s just a skewer or two. You can walk back across Iera Odos on Karamikou street to reach Elvis, the hot spot in this area. It’s open after all the bars and almost as raucous.

EXPERIENCES

View Resplendent Islamic Art Treasures Museum

Spend an hour in the modest-sized Museum of Islamic Art map Google map (benaki.org; adult/child €9/free), a branch of the Benaki, for its significant collection of Islamic art. Four floors across a pair of neighbouring mansions display exceptionally beautiful weaving, jewellery, porcelain and other decorative arts. There’s even a marble-floored reception room from a 17th-century Cairo mansion. Part of the Themistoklean wall and an ancient tomb were uncovered in the buildings’ foundations – you can see them in the basement. Have a refreshment in the rooftop cafe with a great view of Kerameikos. The room is decorated with a colourful floor-to-ceiling mural: Imagine a Palm Tree by Narvine G Khan-Dossos.

Enjoy a Turkish Bath Hammam

Settle in at the marble-lined steam room at Hammam (map Google map; hammam.gr; from €30). It may be small, but this the best of the Turkish-style bathhouses in central Athens, with proper-sized water bowls, and hot tea and Turkish delight in the lounge. Reserve ahead for a full-body scrub. The Al Hammam Baths (map Google map; alhammam.gr; from €30) in Plaka are also diminutive but beautifully decorated in marble, tile and coloured chandeliers to conjure an old-Ottoman atmosphere. After your steam and scrub, sip tea on the terrace and admire the Acropolis.

Ottoman Athens

Ottoman rule in Athens lasted from 1458 until Greek Independence in 1821. The Acropolis became the home of the Ottoman governor, the Parthenon was converted to a mosque and the Erechtheion became a harem. Few buildings constructed during these centuries survive, but one that does is the Mosque of Tzistarakis, which has been towering over Plateia Monastirakiou since 1759. It now houses a branch of the Museum of Greek Folk Art (map; mnep.gr) but is infrequently open. Around the corner, the Roman Agora contains 17th-century Fetiye Mosque (now an exhibit space). The Tower of the Winds was used by Turkish dervishes as a tekke (a Sufi place of worship).

Browse Traditional Pottery Pottery Museum

If the Kerameikos site, which was an ancient clay source for potters, sparks your curiosity, head to the small, free Museum of Traditional Pottery map Google map (potterymuseum.gr) around the corner. You can spend an hour in the lovely neoclassical building dedicated to the history of (relatively) contemporary Greek pottery. They exhibit a selection from the museum’s collection of 4500-plus pieces, and you can also examine a reconstruction of a traditional potter’s workshop. The centre holds temporary exhibitions, too, and there’s a shop selling ceramics from around Greece. They often close in August.

Visit Synagogues & War Memorials Synagogues & WWII Remembrance

With a little advanced preparation you can have a fascinating tour of the tiny Romaniote Ets Hayim Synagogue (map Google map; athjcom.gr), built in 1904, and, across the street, the larger Beth Shalom Synagogue (map Google map), dating from 1935. Tours are by appointment only: send an email with a photocopy of your passport to visits@athjcom.gr.

Outside Beth Shalom look for the metal book memorial to the Righteous Gentiles – Greeks who helped save Jews during the German occupation of WWII. You can find the city’s Holocaust Memorial nearby, shaded by trees next to Keramikos. It’s a large deconstructed Star of David made of marble, designed by Greek-American artist DeAnna Maganias. WWII German occupiers massacred Greeks and Greek Jews in many places, from the Peloponnesian village of Kalavryta to locations across Crete, often in response to Greek resistance. Somewhere between 83% and 91% of Greek Jews were murdered during WWII.

Check Out Rotating Exhibits & a Ribbon Factory Contemporary Art Museum

It’s a bit of a hike, but the Benaki Museum at Pireos 138 (map Google map; benaki.org; exhibitions adult/child €5-16/free) rewards with its focus on the contemporary and inventive. Enter the big, modern building of salmon-pink stone to come upon a grand mosaic by Greek modernist artist Tsarouchis. There are no permanent exhibitions here, rather temporary shows, which are often excellent. Refresh yourself at their pleasant cafe, and shop for creative gifts too, including items made at Mentis-Antonopoulos (‘Nema’) Passementerie (map Google map; admission free). You can also visit this traditional ribbon, braid and tassel manufacturer on nearby Polyfemou.

Explore a Reinvented Historic Gasworks Industrial Complex

Gazi gets its name from the 19th-century industrial works where coal was transformed into gas between 1862 and 1984. The Technopolis (map Google map; technopolis-athens.com) complex of brick chimneys, furnaces and huge holding tanks has been impressively restored and reimagined. You can catch an event – exhibitions, concerts and festivals – or walk a fascinating self-guided route around the site, dubbed the Industrial Gas Museum (map Google map; gasmuseum.gr; entrance €2). The preserved furnaces of the gasworks appear like giant art installations. Photos and interactive elements provide an idea of what the works were like when in operation. You can also book ahead (call 213 010 9325) for a 50-minute guided tour (adult/child €4/1), which can be done in English. Go up the watchtower of the New Watergas building for a panoramic city view. You can take a break at its cafe and kids’ playground.

Savour Street Art & Street Food Murals & Food Festival

Athens has incredible street art, with monumental works around Keramikos, Gazi, Metaxourgio, Psyrri and Exarhia. Look for monotone murals with splashes of light blue by INO, an internationally famous Greek street artist who, like Banksy, keeps his identity secret. On the Pireos side of the Old OSY Depot (map Google map) is INO’s homage to Leonardo da Vinci: spot the rioter and policeman reflected in Mona Lisa’s eyes. The old transport depot transforms into a giant food court every May for the popular Athens Street Food Festival (map Google map; athensstreetfoodfestival.gr).

The Kiss (map Google map), a 22m-tall mural by Cretan artist Ilias Papailiakis, overlooks Plateia Avdi, and Praying Hands (map Google map), on Pireos towards Omonia, is a mural inspired by an Albrecht Dürer drawing. For a street art tour and workshop, contact Awesome Athens Experiences (awesome-athens-experiences.com).

Peel Back the Layers on Plato’s Philosophy Philosophy Display

In 387 BCE Plato founded his Academy – Europe’s first institute of higher learning – just steps from where the small but fascinating Plato’s Academy Digital Museum map Google map (academia.gr; admission free) now stands, about 2km north of Gazi.

Plato (427–347 BCE) was Socrates’ star student, and he documented his teacher’s thoughts in books such as the Symposium. Plato wrote The Republic to warn Athens that unless its people respected law and leadership, and educated its youth, it would be doomed. He trained Aristotle who had his school in Athens, Aristotle’s Lyceum.

At Plato’s Academy Digital Museum you’ll enter a creatively transformed shipping container to gain insight into the great philosopher’s ideas and his well-travelled life around the Mediterranean. Sit in the recreation of the Cave to better understand one of Plato’s most famous parables. Afterwards, wander into the park to see the ruins of the Academy.

Board a Train to Good Times Restaurant & Theatre

The Orient Express never passed through Athens, but one of its Pullman carriages has made it to a railway siding in Rouf, a 10-minute walk south of Gazi. Here it joins other train carriages to form an innovative cultural space, Treno sto Rouf map Google map (totrenostorouf.gr): a theatre wagon, a restaurant and bar wagon, and the New Wagon which hosts literary discussions and diverse arty projects. If there’s no performance scheduled, it’s still a cool place to have a drink and snack at tables on the station platform. Closed in August.

Epic & Progressive Exhibition Spaces Tobacco Factory & Galleries

Listed as a historical monument, this huge block in Kolonus is a late 1920s building that was once the state-owned Lenorman Tobacco Processing Plant (map Google map). Today part of it is home to departments of the Hellenic Parliament. Visit its vast ground-floor spaces, including a glass-roofed courtyard of 1000 sq metres, for epic-scale art installations organised by NEON (neon.org.gr). This non-profit foundation stages site-specific exhibitions of contemporary art, for free, across Athens. Check the website to see what’s planned and prebook tickets (often required, even if free).

Closer to the centre, in Metaxourgio you can press the buzzer to gain entry to The Breeder (map Google map; thebreedersystem.com), a hip concrete warehouse-style art gallery that displays a variety of works over two levels. Rebecca Camhi Gallery (map Google map; rebeccacamhi.com) and One Minute Space (map Google map; OMS; one-minute-space.org) offer edgy contemporary art, too.

Cycle to the Sea & Flisvos Marina Cycling

With its hills, traffic and general lack of bike lanes, Athens is not super cycle-friendly, so if you feel like cruising along under your own steam, it could be a good idea to stick to the 7.5km route of mostly dedicated cycle paths connecting Technopolis in Gazi with Faliro via the neighbourhoods of Petralona, Tavros, Kallithea and Moschato.

Once you hit the coast, one of the safest and easiest places to get two-wheel action is in and around the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center (SNFCC;). They also have some basic bikes available. From the cultural centre’s park, a dedicated cycle lane runs to Flisvos Marina (flisvosmarina.com) from where you can pedal south along the coast to Flisvos Park and the beach at Edem (edemrestaurant.gr). A 13.5km cycle path connecting Kallithea with Voula is also in the works. Numerous outfits, like Coco-Mat.bike (map Google map; coco-mat.bike, from €15 for 3 hours), rent bicycles.

LISTINGS

Best Places for...

€ Budget €€ Midrange €€€ Top End

Eating

Keramikos & Metaxourgio Picks

CTC Urban Gastronomy € € €

map Google map

Treat yourself to an extravagant multicourse tasting menu by Michelin-starred chef Alexandros Tsiotinis in a romantically lit courtyard. 7.30pm-midnight Tue-Sat

Aleria € € €

map Google map

Contemporary, elegant restaurant in a restored Metaxourgio mansion does lovely, imaginative things with the freshest ingredients. Also a high-concept vegetarian menu. 7pm-midnight Mon-Sat

Seychelles € €

map Google map

Watch the harmonious kitchen team toss skillets of pasta, prepare fresh salads and chargrill squid. Go early or book ahead. 3.30pm-midnight Mon-Thu, from 2pm Fri-Sun

Elvis €

map Google map

Busy, outstanding late-night Metaxourgio souvlaki joint. The prices are right and every skewer comes with good chewy bread and fried potatoes. noon-2am

Gazi Hearty Homecooking

Kanella € €

map Google map

Housemade bread, retro crockery and brown paper on tabletops set the tone for this modern taverna. 1pm-midnight Mon-Fri, to 1am Sat & Sun

Oinomperdemata €

map Google map

Unpretentious fresh daily specials are the hallmark of this simple spot: like fried cod with garlic dip, pork stew or rooster. noon-midnight Mon-Sat

Treis Laloun €

map Google map

Festival of vegan, veg and healthy eating options with lush trees over the tables, right in central Gazi. 10am-midnight Wed-Sun

Laika €

map Google map

On the Gazi fringes among car workshops, this hip little cafe-bar is a treat with simple but good-value dishes. 2pm-2am Tue-Sun, from 5pm Mon

Korova € €

map Google map

Busy with chatting folks quaffing beers and cocktails before tucking into excellent Mediterranean mainstays, this is Keramikos casual eating at its best. 10am-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat

Drinking

Gazi & Rouf Picks

Gazarte

map Google map

Respected arts complex with a rich schedule – the ground-level theatre hosts live music and the busy rooftop restaurant-bar is glorious on warm nights. hours vary; closed Aug

MoMix

map Google map

Cocktails get the molecular treatment here, arriving at the table fizzing or smoking, or transformed into gums and powders. Gazi and Acropolis views. 10am-midnight

Beaver

map Google map

This women-run cooperative cafe is lesbian-friendly, but also just generally friendly. Sunday brunch gets a good crowd. 1.30pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat

Upupa Epops

map Google map

A short walk south of Gazi, this cool restaurant-bar has a plant-filled courtyard and vintage furniture. Great for coffee, brunch or cocktails. 10am-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat

A Liar Man

map Google map

Colourful mosaics and a more hushed vibe make this Gazi alleyway hideout a pleasant antidote to top-volume bars nearby. 6pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 3.30am Fri & Sat; closes some summers

Keramikos & Metaxourgio Hot Spots

Alphaville

map Google map

The heart of a cool scene of bohemian Keramikos bars on pedestrianised Salaminos. Start here and wander. noon-1.30am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat

Blue Parrot

map Google map

Lashes of hanging greenery and a laid-back vibe make this the best hangout on Metaxourgio’s Plateia Avdi. 9am-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat

Latraac

map Google map

A wooden skate bowl occupies half a city plot; shaded benches for this cafe take up the other. 6pm-3am Tue-Thu & Sun, to 4am Fri & Sat

LGBTIQ+ Nightlife

Mobile Parties

Look out for queer rave Purple Night, spinning techno, house and disco, or Qreclaim, Slam and Stripped Unicorns. Check Resident Advisor (ra.co) for listings.

BeQueer

map Google map

Mostly younger crowd and queens like Chraja and Filothei perform regularly. midnight-6am Fri & Sat

Shamone

map Google map

Dance hits are queen at this gay and all-friendly club with drag performers and a great beginning-of-the-night vibe. 10.30pm-6am Fri & Sat

Big

map Google map

Cosy hub for Athens’ lively bar scene, out of the way just northwest of Gazi. 10pm-3am Tue-Thu & Sun, to 4am Fri & Sat

Music Bars

Afrikana

map Google map

Just out of the Gazi fray, this little bar occupies an old house, and its small stage hosts jazz and funk bands. 7.30pm-1.30am Wed-Sat; closed Aug

Bios

map Google map

Multilevel hipster hangout in Metaxourgio with a great rooftop bar, restaurant, basement club and tiny art-house cinema. 11am-2am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat

WORTH A TRIP

Athens Riviera

Attica’s western coastline, dubbed the Athens Riviera (or Apollo Coast), stretches for around 60km from Piraeus and Palaio Faliro to the grand Temple of Poseidon at Sounion. A waterfront excursion brings refreshing breezes, and a great opportunity to join Athenian families at leisure on beaches, at resorts and in summer clubs.

map

TONY_PAPAGEORGE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PLANNING TIP

Athens’ tram runs to Voula, via Glyfada. For Vouliagmeni and beyond, transfer to a bus. It’s all easier with your own wheels.

Avoid heavy traffic on summer weekends and set out by 9am; without traffic, the drive from Glyfada to Sounion takes about an hour.

Athens’ Main Port of Piraeus

Athens’ main harbour since the 5th century BCE, Piraeus is the biggest port in the Mediterranean. (Athens’ other two ports are Lavrio and Rafina.) Piraeus is the hub of the Aegean ferry network and the centre of Greece’s maritime trade. Ten kilometres from central Athens, Piraeus is technically its own city, but very much part of the greater Athenian sprawl and the start of the Athens Rivera.

To find out more about the zillions of boats serving the Port of Piraeus (olp.gr), check schedules at ferryhopper.com or ferries.gr and load the Marine Traffic app to see where your boat is. Always check departure docks with the ticketing agent. See p26 for transit to/from Piraeus.

Stavros Niarchos Cultural Centre & Park

The vast 1Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center (snfcc.org) spreads its winged roof on a hill above Faliron Bay. Architecture buffs will love the Renzo Piano building, and readers can admire the National Library of Greece (nlg.gr) installed in one wing.

Check the schedule for arts events by the grand pool and at the Greek National Opera (nationalopera.gr), also based here.

Athens is short on green spaces, so Stavros Niarchos Park is a true breath of fresh air. A large central lawn hosts free dance and exercise classes, as well as midnight film marathons in summer, while rambling paths cut through patches of lavender and rows of olive trees.

Explore a great kids’ play area, a sound garden, an outdoor gym, running track and a cafe, Canal (canalcafe.gr), too. Or rent a bicycle (€2 per hour) – download the SNFCC app to use the docking stations around the park.

QUICK BREAK

For excellent seafood, stop off at Sardelaki me Thea with sea views and access to Vouliagmeni Bay Free Beach. In Piraeus, go simple at Margaro or swanky at Varoulko.

Marina & Puppets

On your way by 2Flisvos Marina (flisvosmarina.com; pictured) you can swing in to check out the historic boat Neraida (admission free; open Friday to Sunday) and the battleship Averoff (closed Monday). Families will love leafy, seaside 3Flisvos Park (parkoflisvos.gr) with its playgrounds and summer puppet theatre, Theatro Skion Tasou Konsta (fkt.gr). It’s all in Greek, but the humour is slapstick and music plentiful.

Throughout summer, breathe the sea air while watching a film at outdoor Cine Flisvos (cineflisvos.gr). Instead of popcorn go for their loukoumadhes (fresh doughnuts served with ice-cream), or a kalamaki (pork skewer).

Beach Club Central

Glitzy Glyfada is the best place on the Athens Riviera for stylish boutiques, on-trend restaurants and hip bars near booming summer beach clubs, plus it’s home to the 4Sea Turtle Protection Society of Greece sanctuary (archelon.gr), which you can visit on a free tour.

SMOOTH YOUR WAY

A dedicated cycle lane and a walking/running promenade runs between Flisvos Marina and Glyfada and its beaches. Around sundown, residents come out for a volta (stroll) along the promenade.

Year-Round Swimming Lake

5Limni Vouliagmenis (limnivouliagmenis.gr, admission from adult/child/under 5 €17/14/free), a cliff-edged lake at the southern end of Vouliagmeni, is fed by mineral-rich warm springs and stays warmer than the sea, never falling below 21°C – ideal for year-round swimming.

Beach Stops

Just north of Vouliagmeni, the public 6Kavouri beaches have seaside tavernas and a pleasant, tree-shaded promenade.

The further south you go, the cheaper and less built-up it becomes. The best views along the spectacular coast road are from 7Lagonisi onwards. Seek out the series of wild and rocky coves at 8Limanakia (accessible by city buses) which are popular with naturists. In summer you can get refreshments at Lefteri’s Canteen.

Alternatively, relax on the long stretch of soft amber sand, at 9Legrena. It can get busy at weekends, but it’s deserted during the week, and you can pop into tasty traditional tavernas in the village behind it.

NIGHT OUT

Many beach clubs morph into summer nightclubs. In fact, this is where all the Athens action moves in summer. Pack evening wear in your beach bag.

WORTH A TRIP

Temple of Poseidon at Sounion

Of all the sights along the Athenian coast, Cape Sounion, a rocky peninsula thrusting into the Aegean 70km south of Athens, is the must, with its temples dedicated to the two key Athenian deities, Poseidon and Athena. The Temple of Poseidon is a thrilling masterpiece.

map

SVEN HANSCHE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PLANNING TIP

Generally the site is open from 9.30am to sunset, with last entry 20 minutes before sunset. To avoid crushing summer crowds and tour buses, visit first thing in the morning or around sunset.

Scan for opening hours and more ticket information (adult/child €10/free).

The Temple Grounds

You’ll love the Temple of Poseidon – a vision of gleaming white-marble Doric columns in the most spectacular location crowning a craggy spur plunging 65m to the sea. Building was started around 444 BCE – around the same time as the Parthenon – of marble from nearby Agrilesa. Sailors in ancient times knew they were nearly home when they saw the first glimpse of white. Views from the temple are equally impressive. On a clear day you can see the islands of Kea, Kythnos and Serifos to the southeast, and Aegina and the Peloponnese to the west.

It is thought that the temple was built by Iktinos, the architect of the Temple of Hephaistos in Athens’ Ancient Agora. Sixteen of the slender columns remain.

Placards explain the site, which also contains the ruins of a fortified tower, two ship sheds (the area was an ancient naval centre), and on a lower hill to the northeast, two quite ruined 6th-century BCE temples to Athena.

Among those who have been inspired by the temple were Byron, who wrote in his poem ‘Don Juan’: ‘Place me on Sunium’s marbled steep/Where nothing save the waves and I/May hear our mutual murmurs sweep.’ He was so impressed by Sounion that he carved his name on one of the columns, alas.

Off-Site Museums

The tiny Archaeological Museum (odysseus.culture.gr; adult/child €3/free; closed Monday) in Lavrio, 9km north of Sounion and 60km southeast of Athens, displays some of the finds from Sounion, as does the National Archaeological Museum in Athens.

QUICK BREAK

Get refreshments at the site’s Naos cafe with its brilliant views, or follow the steep path down to small Sounion Beach and seafood tavernas at the Aegeon Beach Hotel or Akrogiali.

Practicalities

The easiest way to visit Sounion is by car (the ride along the coast road takes about two hours) or on a day-tour from Athens. KTEL (ktelattikis.gr; €12.50 return) also runs three buses per day (one timed for sunset) from Athens’ Mavromateon Terminal; they also stop near Syntagma.

For swimming, you can rent sunbeds or stake out a bit of free sand for a dip with temple views at Sounion Beach.

WORTH A TRIP

Attica Wineries

The sun-drenched soil of Attica, surrounding Athens, has been producing fine grape varieties since ancient times. A trip to one or more of the many vineyard wineries is a great opportunity to learn all about the emerging modern Greek winemaking industry from the experts and try some delicious wines to boot.

THEASTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PLANNING TIP

You must call a few days in advance to schedule a visit. Most wineries are a short drive outside Athens, and the best way to reach them is by car or taxi.

While touring vineyards, visit nearby ruins such as Ramnous, the Temple of Artemis at Brauron and Marathon Battlefield & Tomb, birdwatch at Schinias-Marathon National Park, or go on an activities tour.

Heritage & Tradition

Wine has been produced in Greece for millennia, and there are vineyards with uninterrupted production since antiquity. However, during the last few decades, a new generation of winemakers has invested in all stages of production, and as a result, Greek wines are finally taking their place on the world stage. About 200 distinct regional varieties include many with a ‘protected designation of origin’ indication. Attica boasts the world-famous retsina, considered inferior in the past but making a quality comeback these days. The most frequent grapes in this region are savatiano, roditis and malagouzia, but in recent decades other varieties – both indigenous and international – harmoniously marry the grapes’ core qualities with the Greek climate and terroir.

Thrill Your Senses

Visit a winery to learn about Greek winemaking, walk around magnificent vineyards, have a peek into cellars and, of course, savour wines, usually accompanied by matching delicacies. Most places offer guided tours, tastings and the chance to buy your favourite bottles straight from the producers at affordable prices. Larger estates have their own wine museums and host events such as music concerts, masterclasses and family-friendly activities.

QUICK BREAK

On the hill overlooking Marathon, rustic, family-run Archontiko tou Lekka, located in converted stables, specialises in grilled lamb. Simple seafood taverna Panormitis overlooks the north end of Marathon public beach.

Let’s Drink to That

Oenotria Land (Domaine Costa Lazaridi) was established in Kapandriti in 2000. It’s a branch of the famous Drama estate.

Kokotos Estate is a family winery that’s been producing organic wines for more than 40 years.

Strofilia Estate is located in Anavyssos as well as Nemea, the famous agiorgitiko region of the Peloponnese.

Nikolou Winery has been producing wines in Koropi, near Domaine Vassiliou, for a century and a half.

Zeginis Winery is located near the archaeological site of Ramnous in Marathon.

Domaine Papagianakos is a bioclimatic winery that was built on the site of an old monastery 5.5km south of the Temple of Artemis at Brauron.

Athens Toolkit

Family Travel

Accommodation

Food, Drink & Nightlife

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Health & Safe Travel

Responsible Travel

Accessible Travel

Nuts & Bolts

Language

Plaka and the Acropolis | KONSTANTINOS DIMITROS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Family Travel

Athens is short on playgrounds, but between ice cream, street musicians and giant ruins, there’s plenty to keep kids amused. It helps too that children are welcome everywhere; at casual restaurants they’re often encouraged to play while adults eat.

Dining

Most restaurants are happy to serve smaller portions for children. Ordering lots of mezedhes (small plates) lets little ones sample local food. Highchairs are rare, though, so consider bringing an inflatable booster seat or a cloth one. Few restaurants (or other public facilities) have nappy-changing facilities.

BEACHES

Locate beaches with the cleanest water (over 600!) at geogreece.gr. Scan the QR code to find good beaches for kids or use the SafeWaterSports app.

Cots & Car Seats

Most hotels (but rarely budget places or rooms on remote islands, if you’re heading out to one) have cots, so enquire when booking your room.

In Greece, car seats are compulsory for kids up to 135cm in height and 12 years of age. Book seats in advance or bring your own if you’re renting a car to cruise outside the city.

Sightseeing

Greece’s ancient monuments beat school books hands down. Prepare kids for sightseeing with child-friendly books on Greek mythology, or the podcast Greeking Out.

DEN ROZHNOVSKY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

It’s All Greek

Teach your kids some Greek words and they’ll be even more warmly welcomed.

Discounts

Travel on ferries, buses and trains is free for children under four. For those up to age 10 or 12 the fare is half. Discounts are available on flights for under 12s. Sights are often free or half-price.

Accommodation

Athens offers the full range of options. Book two months ahead for the best selection; for summer, four months. Pools are scarce, and wi-fi can be sluggish even in high-end places.

Where to stay if you love…

Ancient Monuments & Tourist Action

Syntagma & Plaka Tops for atmosphere and close to the Acropolis. Tourist central (for better or worse). Syntagma has larger rooms with the best amenities. Big 1970s buildings can be characterless.

Neighbourhood Feel with Easy Sights Access

Acropolis Area Local vibe in Makrygianni and Koukaki cafes, bars and shops. Koukaki is a 15-minute walk to the Acropolis Museum area, which gets overrun.

OUR PICK

We Love to Stay in...

Monastiraki & Psyrri

It’s always fascinating to walk around the busy centre’s cafe, shopping and bar district. Shoot for the high-design suites which are great value and comfortable, with a kitchenette. There’s also easy metro access from the airport and Piraeus port. Downside? Noise from the bars, which stay open until 4am on weekends.

Chic Shops & Fashionable Life

Kolonaki Quiet, tree-dotted and elegant, near the National Gardens and many museums. A half-hour walk or short metro ride to Plaka or Monastiraki.

Bar-hopping, Street Art & Clubbing

Gazi & Keramikos Hipster fringes, with good bars. Gazi is loud at night. Probably best to avoid Metaxourgio, which can feel dodgy after dark.

Athens Daily Life & Cafe-bar Scene

Pangrati & Mets Young and trendy, with good restaurants, plus families and old-timers. Less central locale. Reach the Acropolis by bus or 20-minute walk.

HOW MUCH FOR A NIGHT IN

Dorm bed from €35

Suite apartment from €80

Boutique hotel from €250

Food, Drink & Nightlife

Allergies & Intolerances

Many Greek foods are made from vegetables, or rely on beans and pulses such as fava (split-pea puree) and revythia (chickpea stew), so vegetarians can get rich, good meals. Increasingly Athens is well-served by vegan and vegetarian restaurants, and menus give options.

HOW TO SAY

I am allergic to...    Eimai allergikos/allergiki sto... (m/f)

nuts    xiri karpi

seafood    thalassina

dairy foods    galaktokomika trofima

gluten    glouteni

HOW TO ASK...

Is this gluten free?

Einai afto horis glouteni?

Does this contain nuts?

Perichei xirous karpous?

Is there a vegan option?

Iparhei epilogi vegan?

GETTING SEATED

When you’re seated, someone will put a basket with napkins and cutlery on the table for you to pass around. Bread may arrive, and in tourist places they may bring a bottle of water (for which you’ll be charged); if you don’t want it and prefer tap water, ask for nero ap ti vrissi.

Customs

Greeks prefer to eat late: 2pm for lunch and 9pm or later for dinner. Casual ouzeries and mezedhopoleia both serve small plates with drinks. The dress code at tavernas is generally non-existent. For trendy restaurants, dress up and book ahead on weekends, or go early.

HOW TO… Pay the Bill

When you order, bear in mind that Greeks usually order dishes ‘for the table’ so portions are meant for sharing, and if you’re dining with Greeks, usually one person picks up the whole tab.

Service may feel slow, but meals are meant to be languid, social occasions. Tables generally aren’t cleared until you ask for the bill (and you must ask for it), which in traditional places arrives with complimentary fruit or sweets and/or a shot of liquor.

Service charges are included in the bill, but most people leave a small cash tip of around 10%, or round up the bill.

PRICE RANGES

The following price ranges refer to the average cost of a main dish:

€ under €10

€€ €10–20

€€€ over €20

OPENING HOURS

Cafes 9am to midnight

Bars 6pm to 2am or 4am

Restaurants noon to midnight

Going Out

Timing Bars begin filling after 11pm and usually stay open until 2am (4am on weekends). Public transport stops or slows after midnight, but taxis are cheap. Larger clubs operate from September to May and start around midnight (drinks are pricier than in bars).

Neighbourhoods Psyrri and north of Syntagma are the best central areas for interesting bars. Gazi and Kolonaki offer slicker, pricier clubs. Find cheaper drinks and live music in Keramikos or Exarhia. Bars and tavernas (especially in Plaka, Psyrri and Exarhia) host bands in the evenings and on Sunday afternoons.

Summer Athenians decamp to mega-clubs on Glyfada’s seafront, along the tramline. If you book for dinner, you don’t pay cover; otherwise admission is €12 to €30 and usually includes one drink. Glam up to get in.

Listings Find out what’s on at cultureisathens.gr, ekathimerini.com, athensinsider.com, thisisathens.gr and elculture.gr.

ANTON STARIKOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

HOW MUCH FOR A

Coffee
€1.50–4

Yoghurt
€2–4

Beer
€3–6

Cocktail
€8–16

Greek salad
€8–9

Lunch at a taverna
€20–25

Dinner at a top restaurant
From €90

Ice cream
€2–3

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Greece’s reputation as a millennia-old gay-friendly culture sometimes clashes with Orthodox mores, especially outside Athens: gay marriage was only legalised in 2024, for example.

Greek Queer Culture

Greek mythology is rife with stories of same-sex relationships. The concept of fixed sexual orientation seems not to have existed, and sexual freedoms flourished more than in many places today. Hercules dressed as a woman, Patroclus was Achilles’ young lover, the goddess Artemis was linked to Athena, Apollo had many male lovers, and so on.

Today, the Athenian production house The Queer Archive (thequeerarchive.com) promotes the development of queer arts and culture, examining different aspects of and issues affecting queer life through art projects, lectures and workshops. In May, they host the Queer Archive Festival in Athens with the support of the Stegi-Onassis Foundation. It showcases up-and-coming queer art alongside amazing parties, gigs and immersive experiences created in collaboration with brands, clubs and organisations.

OUR PICK

The Gazi Area

For nightlife, Gazi is Athens’ main gay and lesbian hub, with both featuring a few big mega-clubs and, throughout the area, some good small bars. Gay-friendly cafes can also cluster around Plateia Agia Irini, and in Metaxourgio and Exarhia. Alternative Athens runs a bar crawl tour around some of the neighbourhoods.

ATHENS PRIDE

Athens’ scene is lively and increasingly becoming an international draw. Athens Pride (athenspride.eu), held in June, has been an annual event since 2005.

ZMOTIONS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BEQUEER

Chraja and Filothei are two famous performers critiquing the patriarchy at regular drag shows at BeQueer.

Resources

• thisisathens.org Tips on culture and nightlife. • athensinfoguide.com General guidance on gay life in Athens. • queerintheworld.com Information on LGBTIQ+ Greece.

Health & Safe Travel

Crime rates have risen in Athens. But this is a rise from almost zero, and violent street crime remains relatively rare.

Crime & Scams

Stay aware of your surroundings at night, especially around Metaxourgio and in the streets southwest of Omonia, where prostitutes and drug users gather.

Phone snatching is on the rise, and pickpockets operate especially on the metro green line (Piraeus–Kifisia), around Omonia and Athinas and at the Monastiraki Flea Market.

Scammers target solo male travellers. Be wary of invitations to bars, which can end in exorbitant bills and/or adulterated drinks.

EMERGENCIES & TOURIST POLICE

In an emergency, call 112. SOS Doctors (sosiatroi.gr; 1016) is a pay service with English-speaking doctors who make house calls. The tourist police (171) work with the Greek police (astynomia.gr). Direct any complaints about hotels, taxis or tourist businesses to them; each office has someone who speaks English.

Cannabis

Greek drug laws are among the strictest in Europe. Recreational cannabis is illegal.

Strikes

Strikes and demonstrations can disrupt public transport and close sights and shops, but they’re almost always announced in advance. Demonstrations usually begin or end at Plateia Syntagmatos. Given strikes in and around Athens, travel insurance is recommended. Check for strikes online at apergia.gr and translate, or visit the News page of the US Embassy’s website (gr.usembassy.gov).

FIRES

Increasingly hot summers are causing intense forest fires (devastating Athens suburbs in 2024). Register at civilprotection.gov.gr/en/112 to receive alerts.

QUICK INFO

After-Hours Pharmacy

See pharmacy windows for the nearest after-hours pharmacies, or call 1434 (Greek only); 24/7 pharmacy at the airport.

Drugs

Getting caught possessing or consuming drugs is likely to lead to fines and/or imprisonment.

Water

Tap water is drinkable.

Responsible Travel

Take opportunities to tune in to what is going on and do what you can to ease the impact of your presence.

Avoid Overtourism

Visit in September to April to avoid peak summer crowds – an astonishing 35 million tourists were expected to arrive in Greece in 2024. Arrive at sights as soon as they open, or wait until the end of the day when crowds have thinned. Spread out your impact by using Athens’ green spaces, such as Filopappou Hill, Lykavittos Hill, National Gardens, Stavros Niarchos Park and Strefi Hill.

Sustainable Products

Try to use sustainably made products. Increasingly, ranges of products, especially cosmetics and wellness lines, are being organically and sustainably made: find them at Apivita, Korres and Michalis Alexandrakis.

ANAKUMKA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

OUR PICK

Local Issues

Find out what local advocates are up to. Fenix Humanitarian Legal Aid (fenixaid.org), for example, works to support the needs of refugees arriving in Greece.

Leave a Light Footprint

Conserve water, as Greece has water issues. At your accommodation, reuse your bath towels rather than have them changed each day. Opt to stay in fewer places for longer and turn down the air-con in your room. Finally, eat locally and seasonally, and always carry a reusable water bottle.

ARTIOM PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Resources

• ekathimerini.com Local news and current events; their podcast is Greek Current. • commonseas.com Help reduce plastic waste by 50% by 2030.

TRAVEL SMART

Walk in the city centre, take the metro, tram and bus, or even a bike. A cycling route runs from Gazi to the coast. Several outfits offer bicycle hire, such as Funky Ride and Solebike.

Support Local

Buy from local creators. With tourism the only booming part of the Greek economy, artists and designers have turned their creativity to ingenious Greece-themed products. Check out the wares at Athena Design Workshop (athenadesignworkshop.com) and Koukoutsi.

Pick products that help. Wise Greece (wisegreece.com) donates a percentage of their profits to a fund to buy food for people in need. Waterbags (waterbags.gr) are available at many outlets across the city; check out their website.

GIVE BACK

Dine or shop at local non-profit Shedia, which employs and empowers people experiencing homelessness and social exclusion.

Visit and contribute to Archelon (archelon.gr) at its turtle rescue centre in Glyfada, which works to protect nesting turtles on beaches.

Climate Change & Travel

It’s impossible to ignore the impact we have when travelling; Lonely Planet urges all travellers to engage with their travel carbon footprint, which will mainly come from air travel. While there often isn’t an alternative, travellers can look to minimise the number of flights they take, opt for newer aircrafts and use cleaner ground transport, such as trains. One proposed solution – purchasing carbon offsets – unfortunately does not cancel out the impact of individual flights. While most destinations will depend on air travel for the foreseeable future, for now, pursuing ground-based travel where possible is the best course of action.

The UN Carbon Offset Calculator shows how flying impacts a household’s emissions.

The ICAO’s carbon emissions calculator allows visitors to analyse the CO₂ generated by point-to-point journeys.

Accessible Travel

Transport

Airlines and Athens Airport offer ground assistance with prebooking. Athens’ metro stations all have lift access. Special Taxi (specialtaxi.com) has wheelchair-adapted vehicles. Most, but not all, buses have lifts. Get discounted tickets on public buses.

Newer ferries have ramps, lifts and boarding assistance. Some have wheelchair-accessible cabins. Piraeus port is wheelchair-accessible, as is the blue (M3) metro line.

ASSISTIVE ADAPTATIONS & DEVICES

The 2004 Paralympic Games improved accessibility around Athens, but marble and stepped alleys remain challenging. Visual and hearing impairments are rarely catered to, but there are tactile pavement strips.

Beaches

Seatrac (seatrac.gr) is a free service that offers sea access via boardwalks, ramps on the sand into the sea, and other devices at scores of Greek beaches. Most Seatrac beaches also offer parking, changing rooms and shaded areas.

OUR PICK

The Acropolis, Acropolis Museum and National Archaeological Museum are all accessible. When you go to the Acropolis, call ahead to book the lift, and have a taxi to drop you off by it (on the northwest side of the hill). Up on top, use the dedicated paths to ease the way.

At the Acropolis (and most museums and sights) people with disabilities qualify for free or discounted admission.

GATHER INFO

You can read up more on the accessibility situation in Athens at Matt Barrett’s Greece Guides (greecetravel.com/handicapped), Sage Traveling (sagetraveling.com/athens-accessible-travel), National Confederation of Disabled People (edf-feph.org), National Confederation of Persons with Disabilities (esamea.gr) and Perpato (perpato.gr).

Resources

• disabledaccessibletravel.com Arranges tours and transfers catering to wheelchair users and those with special needs.

Nuts & Bolts

Opening Hours

The following are high-season hours; hours decrease significantly for low season. Many smaller businesses close for two hours in the afternoon.

Banks 8.30am–2.30pm Monday to Thursday, 8am–2pm Friday

Cafes 9am–midnight

Bars 6pm–2am or 4am

Clubs 10pm–4am

Restaurants noon–11pm or later

Shops 9am–5pm Monday, Wednesday and Saturday; 9am–2.30pm & 5–8pm Tuesday, Thursday and Friday. Exception: Plaka tourist shops are open late.

QUICK INFO

Time Zone EET/UTC+2

Country Code 30

Emergency Number 112

Population 10.44 million

Smoking & Drinking

Smoking is prohibited in all enclosed public spaces including restaurants and bars, though enforcement can be lax. The legal drinking age to buy or be served alcohol is 18, though, again, enforcement can be spotty.

ELECTRICITY

230V/50Hz

Public Holidays

Banks, shops, and most museums and ancient sites close on these holidays, as well as Orthodox holidays like Greek Easter, which have movable dates. Book hotels and travel well in advance. Small shops, especially in tourist areas, may be open.

New Year’s Day 1 January

Epiphany 6 January

First Sunday in Lent February

Greek Independence Day 25 March

Good Friday April/May

Orthodox Easter Sunday April/May

Labour Day (Protomagia) 1 May

Feast of the Assumption 15 August

Ohi Day 28 October

Christmas Day 25 December

St Stephen’s Day 26 December

Language

Greek Basics

Hello/Hi.
Γεια σου yia su

Goodbye
Αντίο an·di·o

Yes
Ναι ne

No
Όχι o·hi

Please
Παρακαλώ pa·ra·ka·lo

Thank you
Ευχαριστώ ef·ha·ri·sto

Sorry
Συγγνώμη sigh·no·mi

Fast Phrases

Do you speak English?

Μιλάς αγγλικά; mi·la·s an·gli·ka

I (don’t) understand.

(Δεν) καταλαβαίνω (dhen) ka·ta·la·ve·no

I’d like …

Θα ήθελα …

tha i·the·la…

a cup of coffee

ένα φλυτζάνι καφέ

e·na fli·dza·ni ka·fe

a table

ένα τραπέζι

e·na tra·pe·zi

for two

για δύο άτομα

ya dhi·o a·to·ma

one beer

μία μπύρα

mi·a bi·ra

The bill, please.

Το λογαριασμό, παρακαλώ to lo·ghar·ya·zmo pa·ra·ka·lo

How much is it?

Πόσο κάνει; po·so ka·ni

Where’s the toilet?

Πού είναι η τουαλέτα; pu i·ne i tu·a·le·ta

Could you please speak to me a little bit more slowly?

Θα μπορούσες παρακαλώ να μιλάς πιο αργά; tha bo·ru·ses pa·ra·ka·lo na mi·las pio ar·gha

Can I have a bag/receipt, please?

Μπορώ να έχω μια σακούλα/απόδειξη, παρακαλώ; bo·ro na e·kho mia sa.ku.la/a·po·dhik·si pa·ra·ka·lo

Numbers

1

ένα e·na

2

δύο dhi·o

3

τρία tri·a

4

τέσσερα te·se·ra

5

πέντε pen·de

6

έξι e·xi

7

επτά ep·ta

8

οκτώ ok·to

9

εννέα e·ne·a

10

δέκα dhe·ka

Good to Know

The Greek alphabet can look intimidating, but with a bit of practice you’ll start recognising the characters quickly.

The modern Greek alphabet consists of 24 letters. Many of the letters of the Greek alphabet are also used in the Roman alphabet. Some letters, however, are a little misleading – they look like English letters but are pronounced very differently.

Greek punctuation uses the same symbols as in English, except for the question mark – this is written as a semicolon (;).

A LONG HISTORY

Greek is believed to be one of the oldest European languages, with an oral tradition of 4000 years and a written tradition of approximately 3000 years.

Signs

Είσοδος Entrance

Έξοδος Exit

Ανοιχτός Open

Κλειστός Closed

Τουαλέτες Toilets

Γυναικών Women

Ανδρών Men

Απαγορεύεται η Είσοδος No entry

Σταθμός τρένου Train station

Αεροδρόμιο Airport

Οδός Street

Τραβάω Pull

Σπρώχνω Push

Μη καπνίζοντες Nonsmoking

Listen For

Πόσες νύχτες; po·ses nikh·tes How many nights?

Μπορώ να σας βοηθήσω; bo·ro na sas vo·i·thi·so Can I help you?

Τι θα θέλατε; ti tha the·la·te What would you like?

βίζα vi·za visa

διαβατήριο dhia·va·ti·ri·o passport

WHO SPEAKS GREEK?

Greek is the official language of Greece and a co-official language of Cyprus, in addition to being spoken by emigrant communities in Türkiye, Australia, Canada, Germany and the United States. In total, there are over 13 million Greek speakers worldwide.

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Acknowledgements

Cover photograph: Mosque of Tzistarakis, Plateia Monastirakiou. Karol Kozlowski/AWL Images ©

Back photograph: Temple of Olympian Zeus. Josef Skacel/Shutterstock ©

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THIS BOOK

Destination Editor

Daniel Bolger

Cartographer

Eve Kelly

Production Editor

Barbara Delissen

Book Designer

Carol Farrell

Assisting Editors

Mani Ramaswamy

Assisting Cartographers

Dorothy Davidson, Rachel Imeson, Daniela Machová, Julie Sheridan

Cover Researcher

Kat Marsh

Thanks to

Melanie Dankel, Vangelis Koronakis, Kathryn Rowan, Maja Vatrić

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited

CRN 554153

7th edition – May 2025

ISBN 978 1 83758 799 5

© Lonely Planet 2025 Photographs © as indicated 2025

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