Florence & Tuscany

Florence & Tuscany

THE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE

Florence | Kirk Fisher/shutterstock ©

I wasn’t sure what to expect when I moved back to Florence after more than a decade abroad. Now, several years later, reading the city still feels like a challenge at times. While millions of visitors arrive each year to see age-old art and monuments, all residents talk about is the radical transformation Florence is undergoing. It’s a paradox that, admittedly, makes representing Florence through words a balancing act. And 2024 has indeed been a year of change, with the first woman mayor elected, a new director hired to manage the city’s top art institution – the Uffizi – and the much-awaited reopening of important museums. What the future holds for Florence as its population attempts to adapt to the dynamics of mass tourism is yet to be seen. For the time being, it’s worth remembering that while being drawn to big attractions is understandable, there’s an intangible heritage made of habits, encounters and human interactions that can only be discovered by taking the time to do so. With this, I invite you to slow down, forget about must-dos, and look beyond the obvious.

Angelo Zinna @angelo_zinna

Angelo Zinna is a writer and photographer based in Florence.

My favourite experience is charting the intersection between art and science at the recently reopened La Specola, a museum where post-Renaissance wax sculptures form one of Florences’s most fascinating collections.

WHO GOES WHERE

Our second writer and expert chooses the place that, for her, defines Tuscany.

Federica Bocco/lonely planet ©

The mountaintop hamlet of Poggio (pictured above) is, to me, the most enchanting place on the island of Elba. It only has 250 inhabitants (plus lots of stray cats), but the locals adorn their homes with colourful flowers, making the quiet alleyways feel more lively. The village is the perfect respite from the crowded beaches in summer, and the main square has a breathtaking view on the bay of Marciana and of the nearby Enfola. Looking out at the sea from up here is incredibly centering.

Federica Bocco

@fedaenerys

Federica is a traveller by passion and a writer by natural necessity, although she sometimes wishes it were the other way around.

RENAISSANCE WONDERS

Architect, painter and author Giorgio Vasari was among the first to popularise the term ‘rebirth’ – rinascita in Italian – to describe the artistic golden age that developed from the 14th century, consisting of a renewed interest in the great classical arts. Brunelleschi, Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci and many other artists embraced humanism and, financed by the new ruling class, turned the city of Florence into the world’s most impressive symbol of the Renaissance’s legacy.

Uffizi, Florence | s4svisuals/shutterstock ©

Museum Hopping

Plan ahead to avoid queues when visiting Florence’s most famous galleries in high season. An early morning start gives you the best chance of low human traffic.

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Beyond Florence

While Florence has gathered the largest share of Renaissance treasures, cities such as Siena, Arezzo, Pienza and San Gimignano (pictured) also house precious works from the era.

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Visually Overwhelming Art

With dozens of museums, chapels and art-filled buildings, it can be tempting to squeeze as much as possible into a day – but it’s better to be selective.

BEST RENAISSANCE ART EXPERIENCES

Start your Renaissance journey with a close encounter with the epoch’s enduring icon, Michelangelo’s David, at the 1 Galleria dell’Accademia.

Take a few hours to admire the vast collection of invaluable works in one of Italy’s most-visited museums, the 2 Uffizi.

Visit 3 Pienza, the ‘ideal Renaissance city’ conceived by Pope Pius II in the heart of picturesque Val d’Orcia.

Read the stories carved on the dazzling pavement of Siena’s 4 Duomo, enriched over five centuries.

Explore a different side of San Gimignano by following 5 Benozzo Gozzoli’s art trail.

FLAVOURFUL JOURNEYS

Tuscan cuisine is often reduced to the famed bistecca alla fiorentina – the thick T-bone steak, typically Chianina beef – but Tuscany’s food landscape is as rich and diverse as it gets. Each subregion proudly combines the fruits of its land into dishes and products that are hard to find elsewhere, making each dinner table you’ll sit at an occasion for surprise.

Pienza | Simona Bottone/shutterstock ©

From Season to Season

Seasonality plays a key role when travelling through Tuscany in search of authentic flavours – visit the region at different times of year and you’ll encounter entirely different cuisines.

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Cooking Classes

You can easily test your own skills over the stove by joining one of the many cooking classes organised in major cities and in some farm stays.

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The Rhythm of Meals

It’s common for restaurants – especially outside big cities – to shut down between lunch and dinner. Italians tend to eat at regular hours – around 1pm for lunch and after 8pm for dinner.

BEST FOOD EXPERIENCES

Go truffle-hunting in 1 San Miniato with an experienced tartufaio and then taste your findings on a plate of tagliolini pasta.

Make sure you taste the different varieties of the local barrel-aged pecorino (sheep’s milk cheese) while you’re in 2 Pienza.

Stop at one of the eateries in Florence’s 3 Via dei Neri to bite into a square of stuffed schiacciata (flat bread made with olive oil).

Refuel with a plate of tortelli alle patate – Casentino’s flagship pasta dish – in 4 Poppi.

Experience the full spectrum of Tuscan flavours in one place by visiting Florence’s 5 Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio.

URBAN OASES

The long tradition of adorning elegant villas with monumental gardens dates back to the Renaissance, but labyrinthine giardini all’italiana are just some of the green islands where you’ll be able to find respite from the built environment. Stroll through gorgeous gardens and enjoy floral scents and century-old trees without leaving the cities’ borders.

City wall, Lucca | Marc Venema/shutterstock ©

Botanical Adventures

The Unusual Address association has created a series of maps showing the positions of monumental trees in Florence and other Tuscan cities. Find their beautiful maps in local bookshops or online (unusualflorence.blogspot.com).

Spring Blooming

Botanical gardens are best visited between April and June, when the flora is in full bloom and the weather most pleasant.

Best Garden Experiences

Book a tour of Europe’s largest private garden, located within a historic centre at 1 Giardino Torrigiani.

Go for a passeggiata (stroll) above the tree-lined city wall of 2 Lucca, one of the best-preserved defensive structures in the region, now covered in greenery.

Visit the art-filled Horti Leonini in 3 San Quirico d’Orcia, combining elegant geometric gardens with wild flora.

Get one of the best views of Florence from the wisteria-covered passageway of the 4 Villa Bardini.

Walk amid cypresses and ornamental plants in the elegant garden of 5 Villa La Foce, opening up on the Val d’Orcia’s scenic landscapes.

COASTAL ESCAPADES

Beyond Tuscany’s museum-rich cities, rolling hills and medieval townlets is a coastline stretching nearly 400km and seven islands that form its archipelago. The Tyrrhenian seaside comes to life during summer months, offering both lively, exclusive holiday hot spots and quaint beaches surrounded by wilderness. Pack your swimwear and sun cream – the Mediterranean awaits.

Umbrellas for Rent

Many beaches in Tuscany are privately managed, meaning that if you want to spend a day on the sand you will have to rent a chair and an umbrella.

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Free Beaches

Publicly accessible beaches are known as spiagge libere and do not typically provide any service. Southern Tuscany offers most beaches of this kind.

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Summer Crowds

The majority of Italians go on holiday during the month of August, making this the busiest (and priciest) month for seaside towns.

BEST BEACH EXPERIENCES

Take the ferry to 1 Isola del Giglio from Porto Santo Stefano to relax by azure waters in Tuscany’s south.

Visit the WWF-protected lagoon of 2 Orbetello, home of flocks of pink flamingos.

Head to the beach near the Versilian town of 3 Pietra santa, checking out its many art galleries on the way.

Explore the rocky coves and underwater life of 4 Monte Argentario.

Travel to 5 Elba, the archipelago’s largest island, and seek a peaceful retreat surrounded by lush nature.

CHIANTI & BEYOND

With over 35 million bottles produced each year, Chianti tends to grab all the attention when it comes to Tuscan vino. The Sangiovese-based variety has been historically produced in the hills between Florence and Siena, but there are many other wines to toast with outside the Chianti Classico area. From the highly prized Super Tuscans of Bolgheri to the intense reds of Montalcino, discover the region’s wine and diverse geography one sip at a time.

Mary Bottacin/shutterstock ©

Wine Tastings

Many wineries offer tasting sessions where you can learn about wine production while comparing different labels and vintages. It’s typically best to book ahead.

Via Chiantigiana | frantic00/shutterstock ©

Protected Varieties

Wines marked with the Designation of Origin (DOC or DOCG) certification cannot be made outside the historic subregion where they originate. Their production has to follow stringent rules to maintain high quality.

DisobeyArt/shutterstock ©

Drinking & Driving

Italy has strict laws on drinking and driving. Those found behind the wheel with more than 0.5mg of blood alcohol face heavy penalties. Designate a driver if you plan to visit wineries independently. Alternatively, join one of the many tours available in Florence.

BEST WINE EXPERIENCES

Take a road trip along the 1 Via Chiantigiana connecting Florence and Siena, visiting scenic vineyards and ancient winemaking castles.

Visit 2 Bolgheri and splurge on a bottle of Sassicaia, the best-known Super Tuscan wine, made from non-indigenous grape varieties.

Book a tasting at 3 Avignonesi Winery, in Montepulciano, to try the proudly local Vino Nobile.

Sip a glass of 4 Morellino di Scansano in one of the many farm stays dotting the Maremma countryside.

Climb to the fortress of 5 Montalcino and learn about the famous Brunello before setting out to visit nearby wineries.

SCENIC DRIVES

There is hardly a better way to explore the Tuscan countryside than by driving your own vehicle. Twisting two-lane roads cut through hilly landscapes connecting stone-built hamlets, vineyards, farms and ancient castles, with an abundance of spontaneous detour opportunities. Leave art cities behind and embrace the rural character of the region on two or four wheels.

Val d’Orcia | Shaiith/getty images ©

Narrow Roads

Roads can get narrow as you reach the mountainous areas or urban centres – when renting a car, opt for a smaller vehicle to make navigation smoother.

Know Your Roads

Urban, two-lane roads are typically referred to as strada normale, while superstrada and autostrada are motorways built for fast traffic.

BEST ON-THE-ROAD EXPERIENCES

Take a trip through the golden hills and cypress-lined roads of the 1 Val d’Orcia.

Follow the Serchio river to discover ancient towns and mountainous landscapes on the way to 2 Barga.

Tour 3 Mugello to visit the Medici’s opulent villas constructed when they ruled over the region.

Explore the mesmerising 4 Città del Tufo, cities of Etruscan origin built on top of towering rock formations.

Drive Monte Argentario’s 5 Via Panoramica in search of hidden beaches and Mediterranean views.

FESTIVE DAYS

Tuscany seems to offer endless excuses to celebrate past and present in the open air of public streets and piazzas, especially as the weather gets warmer and the days get longer. From food festivals that follow harvests to playful re-enactments of historical rivalries, joining in the folklore guarantees hard-to-replace memories.

A Sagra for Everyone

Hundreds of sagre – hyperlocal festivals dedicated to traditional foods – take place around the region year-round. Visit sagretoscane.com for an up-to-date calendar.

Bogdan Sonjachnyj/shutterstock ©

Music Festivals

Local and international music stars gather fans by the thousands at piazzas, arenas, theatres and beaches during summer months. From classical to hard rock, there’s something for everyone.

Chiara Benelli/getty images ©

Not for Tourism

Major events – such as Siena’s Palio or Florence’s calcio storico – are not organised to attract visitors. These are heartfelt events for the local community and should be attended respectfully.

BEST FESTIVAL EXPERIENCES

Visit Siena in July or August for the much-awaited 1 Palio horse race, held in its central square, Piazza del Campo.

Witness the violent 2 Calcio Storico tournament in June, played in Florence’s Piazza Santa Croce.

Head to Viareggio, if you’re travelling in winter, to participate in its 3 Carnevale celebration, one of Italy’s most colourful.

Attend the 4 Lucca Comics & Games Festival, along with other cosplayers and comics fans, in the city of Lucca in October.

Get tickets to July’s 5 Pistoia Blues, one of the region’s most important music festivals, held at the stately palaces of Pistoia’s Piazza del Duomo.

TRACES OF THE MIDDLE AGES

The period that immediately followed the fall of the Roman Empire was far from favourable for the population of central Italy, but with the turn of the millennium things began to change. Gothic and Romanesque architecture began shaping urban and countryside landscapes from the 11th century onwards, while noble families competed for power from their palatial case-torri (tower houses). Dantesque imagery will come to life as you travel through hamlets and former city-states that have preserved their medieval character to this day.

Torre Guinigi, Lucca | Sergey Dzyuba/shutterstock ©

Touring Ancient Borghi

The dozens of smaller urban settlements that have maintained their medieval core intact are referred to as borghi and are found throughout the region.

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Historic Re-Enactments

Most major historic cities celebrate their medieval roots at least once a year, organising traditional costume parades and sporting competitions.

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An Abundance of Castles

Over 200 medieval castles and forts are scattered around Tuscany – while some are still private property, many can be visited.

BEST MEDIEVAL EXPERIENCES

Immerse yourself in the perfectly preserved architecture of 1 Volterra.

Visit the 13th-century 2 Abbazia di San Galgano, the roofless Gothic cathedral in Siena’s countryside.

Walk through the striped Romanesque buildings that form the charming historic centre of 3 Pistoia.

Discover the ancient ships that made Pisa one of Italy’s most powerful maritime republics at the 4 Museo delle Navi Antiche di Pisa.

Climb to the top of Lucca’s 5 Torre Guinigi for spectacular views of the city.

ANCIENT MYSTERIES

The mysterious Etruscan peoples settled in the region of central Italy formerly known as Etruria in 900 BCE and built some of the country’s earliest cities before the Romans took control of the territory. Remnants of the lost civilisation have survived to this day, offering fascinating insight into the livelihood of a population that continues to puzzle historians.

Parco Archeologico di Baratti e Populonia | Sandro Amato/shutterstock ©

Roman Takeover

Archaeological sites often combine elements of Etruscan origin with Roman constructions that were built to control the land as it shifted hands.

Etruscan Museums

Understanding Etruscan cities by only visiting open-air archaeological sites can be difficult – the better-preserved findings are often exhibited in museums, which can help in grasping how these ancient peoples lived.

BEST ARCHAEOLOGICAL EXPERIENCES

Explore the 1 Parco Archeologico di Baratti e Populonia, one of the most impressive Etruscan sites in the region, overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea.

Take a close look at the monumental tombs in the necropolis of 2 Vetulonia, in the heart of Maremma.

Walk through the foundations of an Etruscan urban settlement conquered by the Romans in 3 Roselle, near Grosseto.

Tour the Etruscan passageways known as vie cave, deep alleys dug in the tuff rock found in the surroundings of 4 Sovana.

Visit the 5 Museo Etrusco Mario Guarnacci, one of the country’s richest collections of Etruscan artefacts, operating since the late 18th century in Volterra.

ART WITH A MODERN TOUCH

The Renaissance might be the era Tuscany is best known for, but artistic development didn’t end in the 17th century. Modern and contemporary galleries, open-air museums and street art dot the region, balancing the weight of revered old treasures with fresh ideas and compositions.

Florentine Galleries

Florence is the main Tuscan contemporary art hub, housing many privately run galleries and major rotating exhibitions in its main institution, Palazzo Strozzi (pictured). Check what’s on at palazzostrozzi.org.

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Street-Art Discoveries

Historic centres tend to not be particularly suitable for large mural paintings, but many small artworks and installations blend into the urban fabric where you least expect it.

Olena Yakobchuk/shutterstock ©

Behind the Lens

Some of the major festivals dedicated to contemporary photography are Cortona on the Move, Lucca’s Photolux and Florence’s Middle East Now (showcasing artists and directors from the Middle East and North Africa).

BEST CONTEMPORARY ART EXPERIENCES

Try to spot the ironic, modified street signs around Florence by long-time resident 1 Clet.

Hike all the way up to 2 Cima Gioia in the Alpi Apuane (Apuan Alps) to see the colourful David, by street artist Eduardo Kobra, overlooking Colonnata’s marble quarries.

Chat with the friendly people at Florence’s 3 Street Levels Gallery and learn about the best of local urban art.

Head to San Gimignano’s 4 Galleria Continua for a break from the ancient city’s medieval architecture.

Visit 5 Cortona on the Move, one of the most important contemporary photography festivals in the region, from July to October.

OUTDOOR ACTION

World-class art, food and wine make it far too easy to sit back and enjoy life as it comes, but it’s worth temporarily setting your dolce vita dreams aside to immerse yourself in the Tuscan wilderness. With nearly 7000km of mountain trails to conquer, 2300 sq km of protected parks and natural reserves, and a wide network of long-distance walking and cycling routes, your will to work up a sweat will be greatly rewarded.

Alpi Apuane | Mattia Querci/shutterstock ©

Cycling

Road cycling and mountain biking are popular in Tuscany. Consider exploring some of the region on two wheels – there are itineraries for every fitness level, and e-bikes are increasingly available for rent.

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Long-Distance Hikes

Ancient pilgrim routes and recently developed multiday trails allow those with time on their hands to cover large sections of the region at a slow pace.

Angelo Zinna/lonely planet ©

Hike Safely & Responsibly

The heat can be harsh in summer and the weather unpredictable in winter. If you’re unsure about the best route to take, hire a guida ambientale (certified guide).

BEST OUTDOOR EXPERIENCES

Tackle the many altitude trails of the rugged 1 Alpi Apuane in northern Tuscany.

Explore the hermitages and ancient forests of the 2 Parco Nazionale delle Foreste Casentinesi.

Hike the little-known mountains surrounding Pisa, starting from the spa town of 3 San Giuliano Terme.

Cycle the white roads of 4 L’Eroica race route, stretching for over 200km in the Chianti region.

Try spotting the wildlife of the 5 Parco Regionale della Maremma as you cross the lush reserve to reach the abandoned abbey.

REGIONS & CITIES

Find the places that tick all your boxes.

ITINERARIES

Art Cities Large & Small

Allow: 10 days   Distance: 300km

Starting and ending in the Tuscan capital, this itinerary will take you through some of the most impressive architecture the region has to offer, with well-deserved food breaks between historic sights. Get your fill of Renaissance art before cutting through picturesque landscapes in search of frame-worthy medieval scenes.

Palazzo dei Priori, Volterra | marcobrivio.gallery/shutterstock ©

1
Florence 3 DAYS

Take some time in Florence to explore dozens of museums, galleries, churches and piazzas filled with Renaissance and contemporary masterpieces. Enjoy the city's culinary delights and vibrant aperitivo scene before setting out to visit less-crowded historic centres in its surroundings.

gif Detour: Head up to Fiesole to check out the Etruscan archaeological sites and one of the best views of Florence.

Alberto Zamorano/shutterstock ©

2
Pistoia 1 DAY

Forget about queues in charming Pistoia, where striped Romanesque architecture adorns the quaint historic city centre. Enter the barely lit Cattedrale di San Zeno and the nearby Antico Palazzo dei Vescovi before touring the underground tunnels to learn about the city’s history from a unique perspective.

gif Detour: Stop on the way in Prato to visit its Palazzo Pretorio or an exhibition at Centro Pecci.

Piero M Bianchi/getty images ©

3
Lucca 1 DAY

Enter the enchanting city centre of Lucca via the Porta San Pietro and visit the many historic buildings and piazzas. Climb Torre Guinigi for a spectacular view of the city from its forested rooftop, then join the locals for their evening passeggiata (stroll) on the 16th-century walls that surround Lucca.

Andrea Pucci/getty images ©

4
Pisa 2 DAYS

Spend some time in Pisa exploring the Piazza dei Miracoli – besides the Leaning Tower there are fantastic pieces of Romanesque architecture. Venture out to the Parco Naturale di Migliarino San Rossore Massaciuccoli for a break from the city and a chance to spot wildlife around the former Medici estate.

gif Detour: Head to Peccioli for a tour of its urban art installations.

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5
Volterra 1 DAY

After a stop in the modern art hub of Peccioli, continue all the way to Volterra (pictured), where Etruscan and Roman ruins surround the medieval core of the ancient city. Learn about alabaster carving in Volterra’s artisanal workshops before continuing onwards via the Elsa Valley.

gif Detour: Make a stop at Andrea Bocelli’s Teatro del Silenzio, an open-air amphitheatre built in the heart of the countryside.

Kirk Fisher/shutterstock ©

6
San Miniato 2 DAYS

Take a couple of days to tour the Elsa Valley, stopping in San Gimignano for a sip of its famed Vernaccia wine, then continue through hamlets such as Certaldo Alta and Castelfiorentino before concluding your journey in San Miniato (pictured), where delish white-truffle dishes are waiting to be tasted. Take your time – from here, Florence is less than an hour away.

Federrame/shutterstock ©

ITINERARIES

A Tuscan Road Trip

Allow: 12 days   Distance: 300km

The scenery changes as you drive south from Florence, crossing vineyard-covered hills, cypress-dotted landscapes and Etruscan-era borderland towns. This road trip takes you to world-class wineries, UNESCO World Heritage Sites and farm stays you’ll struggle to leave.

Città del Tufo | MNStudio/shutterstock ©

1
Greve in Chianti Days

After a few days in Florence, start exploring the wine lands south of the city, journeying through the Via Chiantigiana, the picturesque road connecting Florence with Siena. Set up base in one of the many agriturismi (farm stays) near Greve in Chianti and go winery-hopping to taste one of the products Tuscany is most proud of.

gif Detour: On your way to Siena visit the fortified town of Monteriggioni, a stop on the Via Francigena.

2
Siena 2 DAYS

Architectural highlights abound in the elegant city of Siena – take a couple of days to explore the city’s attractions, starting with the sloping Piazza del Campo and its Palazzo Pubblico. Admire the Duomo’s incredible pavement and enjoy the wealth of medieval art exhibited in the city’s museums and cathedrals.

gif Detour: Visit the incredible Abbazia di San Galgano, a Gothic roofless abbey near Chiusdino.

3
Pienza & Val d’Orcia 2 DAYS

As you drive south towards the UNESCO-listed Val d’Orcia through the lunar landscapes of the Crete Senesi area, make a brief stop at the Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore before continuing to Pienza, the 'ideal Renaissance city'. Refuel with a plate of pici pasta before further explorations of the picture-perfect landscapes and stone-build hamlets.

gif Detour: Make a photo stop at the Cappella della Madonna di Vitaleta, between Pienza and San Quirico d’Orcia.

4
Montalcino 1 DAY

As you leave the Val d’Orcia behind, stop in the fortified town of Montalcino, the hilltop settlement home of the famed Brunello di Montalcino wine. Visit the Tempio del Brunello and surrounding enoteche (wine bars) before heading to the countryside for a tasting at one of the area's historic wineries.

gif Detour: The Abbazia di Sant’Antimo is a worthy stop as you continue further south.

5
Pitigliano & Città del Tufo 2 DAYS

This leg is a road trip within a road trip. Tuscany’s deep south is known for its towering hamlets built on tuff-rock formations inhabited since Etruscan times. The Città del Tufo area combines astounding archaeological sites with charming towns connected by twisting roads. Tour Sorano, Sovana and Pitigliano – also known as 'little Jerusalem' due to the Jewish population that once lived here – and walk through the Etruscan-era caves and necropolises.

gif Detour: Recover from the long drive with a dip in the thermal waters of Saturnia.

6
Orbetello 3 DAYS

Conclude your journey with a restful break on Maremma’s coast, exploring wild beaches and protected wildlife reserves near the town of Orbetello. If time allows, extend your trip to tour the hidden coves of Monte Argentario and hop on the ferry to reach Isola del Giglio for a well-earned dose of Mediterranean sunshine.

ITINERARIES

Uncover the North

Allow: 10 days   Distance: 230km

Escape the cities and your own expectations by heading north, deep into Tuscany’s mountainous edges, to discover unique flavours and unspoiled landscapes at the crossroads between the Apennines and the Apuan Alps.

Lucca | Giannis Papanikos/shutterstock ©

1
Lucca 2 DAYS

Start the trip in charming Lucca, discovering the layers of history that form this millennia-old city. Visit the baroque masterpieces at Palazzo Pfanner and the Museo Nazionale di Palazzo Mansi before starting your trip north towards Garfagnana.

gif Detour: Make a quick stop in Borgo a Mozzano to admire the 11th-century Devil’s Bridge.

Valery Bareta/shutterstock ©

2
Barga 1 Day

Driving along the Serchio river you’ll soon reach the medieval hamlet of Barga, one of northern Tuscany’s most picturesque due to its position nestled in a valley surrounded by the majestic backdrop of the Apuan Alps. Walk up to the Collegiata di San Cristoforo for a spectacular view of the surrounding scenery, then continue onwards to reach the area’s higher grounds.

Gimas/shutterstock ©

3
Castelnuovo di Garfagnana 3 DAYS

Pick one of the many farm stays surrounding the main hub of Castelnuovo di Garfagnana and spend a few days exploring the trails on foot or by bicycle. The options are endless – visit the Lago di Vagli, climb the Pania della Croce, or rent a mountain bike to hit the forests of the Parco dell’Orecchiella.

gif Detour: Stop at the Grotta del Vento to see inside the mountain.

Claudio Giovanni Colombo/shutterstock ©

4
Pontremoli 1 Day

Reach Pontremoli and discover the mysterious stone statues exhibited in the Castello del Piagnaro. Book a visit at the elegant Villa Dosi Delfini, a fascinating piece of baroque architecture dating back to 1700. Leave some time to explore the town’s surroundings along the Via Francigena.

gif Detour: Consider touring Lunigiana’s castles by bicycle along the 47km-long Ciclovia dei Castelli.

Sandro Amato/shutterstock ©

5
Carrara 1 Day

Known since Roman times for its white marble, Carrara and its surrounding quarries offer a glimpse into the history of Italian fine arts. Galleries recalling the days when Michelangelo came here to select his marble stand in contrast to the sculpted peaks of the city’s backdrop.

gif Detour: Drive up to Colonnata for a day hike in the Apuan Alps to Cima Gioia.

Salvo La Fata/shutterstock ©

6
Pietrasanta 2 DAYS

After much hiking, head to the coast to enjoy some beach time near the artistic hub of Pietrasanta. The old city features one of the highest concentrations of galleries in Italy and sits just 3km from the sandy Versilian beaches of Marina di Pietrasanta (pictured). If you have more time, you can easily continue onwards to Pisa or Florence from here.

elesi/shutterstock ©

WHEN TO GO

Flavours, colours and landscapes change with the seasons, providing surprising experiences year-round.

Late spring to early autumn attracts the most travellers: days are long and warm, rural tourism destinations come to life after winter hibernations, and festivals in sun-soaked piazzas celebrate local delicacies, cultural identities and contemporary arts. From outdoor dining to mountain hiking, April to October is when you’ll get the most out of your Tuscan journey. However, the winter months shouldn’t be dismissed – while the weather might not always be favourable, low-season explorations offer the chance to visit festively lit art cities at much lower prices than at peak times. Get your vino jacket on and take your time to stroll through world-class yet crowd-free galleries and museums.

Mass Holidays

The 15 August holiday of Ferragosto was instituted by Roman Emperor Augustus in 18 BCE as a public day of rest, and later blended with the Christian celebration of Mary’s Assumption. It’s around this date in the middle of August that most Italians take time off work – city residents move to the coast en masse and prices skyrocket (it’s best to book accommodation ahead).

Bolgheri wine region | robertonencini/shutterstock ©

I LIVE HERE

URBAN ART

Sofia Bonacchi is a cultural promoter running Street Levels Gallery, Florence’s first urban-art gallery. @streetlevelsgallery

Sunny spring days offer the chance to search outside the centre of Florence for some impressive pieces of open-air urban art. Get to Via di Corbinelli in the Galluzzo area to see the monumental Giudizio Universale by Francisco Bosoletti – a Dante-inspired composition painted over five buildings – or to Via Policarpo Petrocchi to see Ache77’s L’Eredità, a large stencil mural dedicated to Polish children’s rights activist Janusz Korczak.

MICROCLIMATES

The fame of Tuscany’s wine production is partly owed to the many microclimates that allow for a diverse range of grapes to grow. Bolgheri’s prized wines, for instance, result from an ideal balance between sunlight and the sea breeze that hits the hills rising near the coast.

SNOWY DAYS

White powder typically covers the higher grounds of the Apennines, the Apuan Alps and Monte Amiata from December to February. The areas of Abetone and Monte Amiata are among the region’s most popular skiing destinations, attracting outdoor enthusiasts particularly during the Christmas holidays.

I LIVE HERE

MOUNTAIN FLAVOURS

Alberto Pellegrinetti is an adventure planner at Garfagnana Dream. @garfagnanadream.it

Autumn is a great time to visit Garfagnana. As summer fades the forests of the Orecchiella Nature Reserve and Careggine turn red, offering a natural spectacle that I’ll never get used to. This is also the time of mushrooms and chestnuts – if you are lucky, you might be able to spot some of the last remaining active metati, the ancient stone huts where chestnuts are dried after harvest.

Garfagnana | Andrea Bonfanti/shutterstock ©

Major Music Festivals

Firenze Rocks has been bringing international pop and rock acts, such as Metallica, Red Hot Chili Peppers and Green Day, to the city’s Visarno Hippodrome since 2017. June

Indie acts turn Camaiore into a place for discovering new music during the recently launched festival La Prima Estate. June

Pistoia’s Piazza del Duomo turns into an open-air concert space during the Pistoia Blues Festival. Running since 1980, previous editions have seen artists of the likes of Frank Zappa and Jimmy Page perform. July

The Lucca Summer Festival transforms Lucca into a massive open-air exhibition space, with past performers such as Ben Harper, Bob Dylan and the Rolling Stones playing in various locations within the historic walls. July

Games of the Past

Florence’s brutal tournament Calcio Storico, held in Piazza Santa Croce, sees the city’s four historical districts compete in an ancient game combining elements of soccer, rugby and wrestling. June

Siena’s Piazza del Campo hosts the city’s famous Palio twice a year, when old rivalries are brought to the semicircular square in the form of a fierce horse race contested by 10 of the city’s 17 contrade (districts). July & August

The Bravìo delle Botti sees representatives of Montepulciano’s eight contrade challenging each other in pushing heavy wine barrels through the city’s narrow alleys. August

The Fiera del Cacio celebrates the Val d’Orcia’s cheesemaking tradition with a game of rolling wheels of pecorino cheese around Pienza’s main square. September

EXTREME HEAT

In recent years, Tuscany has experienced a record number of days of above-average heat. Maximum temperatures above 35°C are more frequent than ever between May and August. Italy has yet to implement a national climate adaptation plan.

Weather Through the Year (Florence)

JANUARY

Avg. daytime max: 11°C

Days of rainfall: 6

FEBRUARY

Avg. daytime max: 13°C

Days of rainfall: 6

MARCH

Avg. daytime max: 15°C

Days of rainfall: 7

APRIL

Avg. daytime max: 19°C

Days of rainfall: 8

MAY

Avg. daytime max: 24°C

Days of rainfall: 7

JUNE

Avg. daytime max: 28°C

Days of rainfall: 6

JULY

Avg. daytime max: 31°C

Days of rainfall: 4

AUGUST

Avg. daytime max: 31°C

Days of rainfall: 5

SEPTEMBER

Avg. daytime max: 26°C

Days of rainfall: 7

OCTOBER

Avg. daytime max: 21°C

Days of rainfall: 9

NOVEMBER

Avg. daytime max: 15°C

Days of rainfall: 9

DECEMBER

Avg. daytime max: 12°C

Days of rainfall: 7

GET PREPARED FOR FLORENCE & TUSCANY

Useful things to load in your bag, your ears and your brain

Ponte Vecchio, Florence | Simona Sirio/shutterstock ©

Clothes

Layers While the weather is typically sunny most of the year, in recent years summers have brought consistently high temperatures along with unexpected storms and downpours. Bring a light waterproof jacket with your swimwear if you plan to visit between June and September, and be prepared for chilly evenings if you’re visiting in spring or autumn. Winters are cold – a heavy jacket and closed shoes are essential.

Summer essentials Especially in cities, the climate can be particularly humid. Besides adequate clothing for very hot temperatures, make sure you pack mosquito repellent, as well as a hat and sun cream to protect your skin.

Shoes A pair of stylish shoes might seem required when visiting Italian cities, but don’t forget a pair of high boots if you plan to walk to rocky mountaintops.

Manners

Exchanging two cheek kisses is a common way of greeting friends and family. If you’re not comfortable with this feel free to go for a handshake or just say ‘Ciao!’

When eating out wait for everyone to be served before you begin eating and toast with a ‘Salute!’ before starting to drink. Don’t rush through your meal.

It’s common to split the restaurant bill ‘alla romana’ – in equal shares among all people at the table.

READ

Two Brothers (Vasco Pratolini; 1947) Nobel Prize–nominee Vasco Pratolini tells the story of his lost brother Dante in postwar Florence.

Galileo’s Daughter (Dava Sobel; 1999) Based on the letters exchanged between Suor Maria Celeste and her father, Galileo Galilei.

The Agony and the Ecstasy (Irving Stone; 1961) The now classic biographical novel narrating the life of Michelangelo.

Medici Money (Tim Parks; 2005) Fascinating tale that follows the money to elucidate the power relations that made history.

Words

Ciao is your standard way of saying ‘Hello’ or ‘Goodbye’. Depending on the time of the day you may formally greet people with buongiorno (in the morning) or buonasera (in the afternoon).

Arrivederci is a formal way to say ‘goodbye’.

Grazie means ‘thank you’ and prego means ‘you’re welcome’.

Come va? is a friendly way to ask ‘How’s it going?’, used among people who already know each other.

Parla inglese? means ‘Do you speak English?’ and Non parlo italiano means ‘I don’t speak Italian’.

Come ti chiami? is how you ask for someone’s name, and Piacere is how you say ‘Pleased to meet you’.

When entering a restaurant you can say Ha un tavolo per due? to ask if a table for two is available.

You can say Un espresso, per favore to order a standard Italian coffee in any cafe.

Aiuto! is what you should say if you’re looking for help.

Quanto costa? is how you ask ‘How much does it cost?’

If you need to find a bathroom, ask Dov’è il bagno?

Scusa (informal) or Scusi (formal) is a polite way to say ‘Excuse me’ or ‘Sorry.’

Che ore sono? means ‘What time is it?’

When dining, Posso avere il conto? means ‘Can I have the bill?’

Mi scusi, dov’è la fermata dell’autobus? means ‘Excuse me, where is the bus stop?’

C’è un bancomat qui vicino? means ‘Is there an ATM nearby?’

Sì means ‘Yes,’ and No means ‘No.’

WATCH

Medici, Masters of Florence (Frank Spotnitz; 2016) Three-season series tracing the lives of the members of Florence’s most powerful family during the Renaissance.

Amici miei (Mario Monicelli; 1975) A cult comedy telling of the misadventures of five Florentine friends trying to get by in a continuous flow of jokes.

Life Is Beautiful (Roberto Benigni; 1997) This Academy Award–winning comedy drama portrays the dark story of a Jewish man living in Fascist-era Arezzo.

Il ciclone (Leonardo Pieraccioni; 1996) The life of a family in the Tuscan countryside changes abruptly when a Spanish flamenco crew shows up in their town.

Nostalghia (Andrei Tarkovsky; 1983) Protagonist Andrei Gorchakov travels to southern Tuscany to research the life of suicidal composer Pavel Sosnovsky.

LISTEN

Amen (Baustelle; 2008) Baustelle’s fourth and most popular album is a mix of poetic indie rock and melodic ballads.

Cari Fottutissimi Amici (Zen Circus; 2022) Punk and folk influences combine in the latest work of Pisa’s best-known alternative contemporary act.

Io e te (Gianna Nannini; 2011) Recorded at Abbey Road Studios, the 17th album of this Sienese singer-songwriter topped Italy’s charts the day of its release.

Se mi rilasso collasso (Bandabardò; 2001) Politically charged lyrics and fun folk sounds have made Bandabardò’s best-known album a cult classic.

THE FOOD SCENE

In Tuscany, eating and drinking are sacred rituals. Quick bites and long sessions around the dining table offer equally satisfying experiences.

Cacciucco | STEFANO CELLAI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Despite the huge diversity of flavours found across the region, pride for the local cuisine is something all Tuscans seem to share. No social glue is as strong as food and the dedication to keeping traditions alive spans far and wide. While the rare, juicy bistecca alla fiorentina is often the first thing to come to mind when thinking of Tuscan specialities, the thick T-bone steak, typically Chianina beef, has historically been enjoyed exclusively by the elite, with the majority of the population relying on careful combinations of more accessible ingredients for daily nutrition. Getting a sense of Tuscan cuisine means understanding its rural roots: the cucina povera (‘poor’ cuisine) consisting of few staples and the creative use of leftovers to prepare heartwarming dishes, even in difficult circumstances. Ancient recipes persist on the menus of modern trattorie and osterie, turning foods born out of necessity into comforting meals that make simplicity their strength.

Bread is King

All subregions have slightly different methods of cooking and eating, so it can be difficult to point to a single, identifying dish to represent Tuscan cuisine. However, there is one staple food that rules them all and is universally loved: bread. It comes in all shapes and forms – from the unsalted pane toscano to the olive-oil-coated schiacciata and the sweet pan di ramerino – and is the key ingredient of classic cucina povera dishes. In addition, the ease of access in the countryside and the ancient Florentine custom of distributing the nobility’s leftovers to the poor have resulted in a large variety of bread-based dishes, including soups such as ribollita and pappa al pomodoro, salads like panzanella, and bruschette like fettunta (toasted bread with garlic and a generous amount of extra-virgin olive oil).

Vegans & Vegetarians

A complete Italian meal typically consists of an aperitivo and finger food, followed by a starter, a first and second course, dessert, coffee and a digestive herbal liquor known as amaro (bitter). Vegans tend to have limited options in restaurants, especially outside major cities, while vegetarians can rely on the abundance of cheeses produced in the region. Starters can include pecorino and caprino platters or bruschette with tomato, garlic and olive oil, while first courses are typically pastas served with a variety of sauces – cacio e pepe (cheese and pepper), all’aglione (an indigenous variety of garlic) and truffle are some of the meatless alternatives. Unlike dry pasta, fresh pasta is made with eggs. Second courses can be tricky to navigate as menus tend to be dominated by meat or seafood dishes, depending on which part of the region you’re in. Vegan favourites are cecina (savoury chickpea cake; also known as cinque e cinque in Livorno) and fagioli all’uccelletto (spiced beans and tomato stew). Finish with castagnaccio (chestnut cake) or schiacciata all’uva (sweet grape focaccia), before an espresso followed by local grappa or a China Clementi digestive made in Lunigiana.

Amaro | Svittlana/shutterstock ©

FOOD & WINE FESTIVALS

Tuscan white truffles | Steve Barze/shutterstock ©

Mostra Mercato Nazionale del Tartufo Bianco San Miniato celebrates its prized white truffles each year in November.

Expo del Chianti Classico Chianti winemakers gather in Greve in Chianti’s main square in September to showcase their production.

Sagra delle Castagne a Marradi There’s no better place for a chestnut festival than in Marradi, in the northeastern corner of the region, held in October.

Fiera del Cacio Pienza’s famed barrel-aged pecorino has its own festival in September, including a game of rolling cheese wheels in the central square.

Festa dell’Olio San Quirico d’Orcia celebrates its olive oil with markets, tastings and walks during the first week of December.

Best Tuscan Dishes

RIBOLLITA
Vegetable and bread soup made in Florence, Pisa and Siena.

CECINA
A savoury, thin chickpea cake originating from the Livorno area.

PEPOSO
A meat stew prepared with beef, red wine and peppercorns.

CACCIUCCO
Livorno’s flagship dish – a spicy red stew packed with fish and seafood.

PAPPA AL POMODORO
Stale bread, garlic and tomatoes combine to form a staple of Tuscany’s cucina povera.

BISTECCA ALLA FIORENTINA
Perhaps the best-known Tuscan dish – a massive T-bone steak, always served rare.

PICI ALL’AGLIONE
Hand-rolled pasta served with a sauce of tomato and a (giant) garlic grown in Valdichiana.

TORTELLI ALLE PATATE
Potato-filled pasta cushions typically made in the Mugello and Casentino.

Specialities

Regional Gastronomy

Pecorino Toscano Tuscany’s delicate sheep’s cheese, in varieties from fresh to aged.

Tartufo bianco Precious white truffle is found during autumn in parts of Tuscany, San Miniato being the best-known destination.

Saffron San Gimignano’s saffron is expensive, but worth trying if you’re there in September and October.

Olive oil Many parts of Tuscany produce fine olive oil – try olio novello on bread in November.

Street Food

Cinque e cinque A sandwich filled with cecina (chickpea cake), served in Livorno.

Schiacciata ripiena A Florence favourite – oily, salted focaccia with cold cuts and cheeses.

Panino con la porchetta A round sandwich filled with boneless, fatty, roasted pork.

Gelato A Florentine invention you’ll never have to go far to find.

Sweet Treats

Castagnaccio An autumn cake made with chestnut flour and pine nuts.

Cantucci Almond biscuits best enjoyed dipped in vin santo (sweet wine).

Schiacciata all’uva Sweet focaccia filled with red grapes.

Brigidini Aniseed-flavoured wafers invented in Lamporecchio, near Pistoia.

Pecorino Toscano | ChiccoDodiFC/shutterstock ©

Dare to Try

Lampredotto A section of cow’s stomach cooked in broth and served in a sandwich covered in green parsley sauce.

Lardo di colonnata Cured pig’s fatback, aged in marble vats in Colonnata.

Trippa alla fiorentina Tripe soaked in tomato sauce and covered in parmesan.

Crostini neri Toasted Tuscan bread covered with chicken liver.

MEALS OF A LIFETIME

Enoteca Pinchiorri, Florence The city’s most famous restaurant is one of the few in the world to have gained three Michelin stars twice.

Filippo, Pietrasanta Contemporary cuisine blending flavours from land and sea in an artistic atmosphere.

Rinuccio 1180, San Casciano in Val di Pesa Eat overlooking the vineyards covering the Chianti hills in the restaurant of the modern Antinori winery.

Cibrèo, Florence A Florentine institution, where local tradition has been proudly celebrated for the past four decades.

Pepenero, San Miniato Get your fill of truffle-based specialities at this long-standing San Miniato restaurant.

THE YEAR IN FOOD

zoryanchik/shutterstock ©

SPRING

Asparagus takes centre stage on restaurant menus, followed by artichokes, zucchini and cherries that turn market stalls red as the season comes to a close.

Francesca Pagliai/shutterstock ©

SUMMER

As many move to the coast for the holidays, fresh seafood dishes are in high demand. In July, Valdichiana’s aglione (giant garlic) is harvested, before San Gimignano’s saffron, usually picked in September.

irina d’elena/shutterstock ©

AUTUMN

Grapes and olives are picked in September and October, giving way to the production of two of Tuscany’s top products – wine and oil. Autumn also means chestnuts, spelt, pumpkins, truffles and porcini mushrooms.

coffeeflavour/shutterstock ©

WINTER

Warming soup bowls of ribollita, minestrone and acquacotta make their way onto the dining table as the weather cools, together with the classic crostini al cavolo nero, made with locally sourced black cabbage.

Cantucci | New Africa/shutterstock ©

THE OUTDOORS

From rocky, mountainous landscapes to low-key surfing spots, Tuscany has much to offer beyond its art cities and rolling hills.

Apennines, Tuscany | Mauro Pezzotta/shutterstock ©

With approximately one-quarter of its surface covered by mountains, Tuscany lends itself to endless outdoor adventures, especially in summer. True, the region’s peaks cannot compete with the Alps in terms of altitude or fame, but unspoiled scenery and challenging trails await those who wander off the beaten path. Hiking is only part of the story, though – centuries of pilgrimages have carved long-distance walking routes, while off-road cyclists can enjoy accessible Apennines.

Hiking & Long-Distance Walking

Pack your boots and get ready to tackle over 7000km of trails that mark the Tuscan territory from north to south. Most hiking paths are managed by the Italian Alpine Club (CAI) and are marked by red-and-white signs. Mountain huts provide shelter on multiday routes and certified guides can be hired for non-technical hikes. The Apennines, extending along the border with Emilia-Romagna, typically offer softer ridges than the rugged Alpi Apuane (Apuan Alps), named as such because of their resemblance with the actual Alps of northern Italy. Unfortunately, most trails are hard to reach with public transport – set up base in the areas of Garfagnana or Lunigiana to conquer the peaks overlooking the coast.

Those with more time on their hands should consider exploring Tuscany slowly and sustainably by walking across the region on some of the long-distance routes between cities. The best-known path is the Via Francigena, the legendary pilgrim route connecting Canterbury to Rome (and ultimately Jerusalem), which crosses the whole of Tuscany in 17 stops. Other routes include the Via degli Dei, connecting Bologna to Florence via the hills of the Mugello; the Via del Volto Santo, running from Pontremoli to Lucca; and Il Cammino di Dante, tracking the Divine Comedy author’s footsteps from Ravenna to Florence and back.

Mountain bikers, Tuscany | ROBERTONENCINI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

FAMILY ADVENTURES

Cycle through the Tenuta di San Rossore in search of wildlife.

Visit Pinocchio Park, a theme park dedicated to the famed character, located in Collodi, the birthplace of Carlo Lorenzini, author of The Adventures of Pinocchio.

Cruise the Ombrone river in a canoe in the Parco Regionale della Maremma.

Go birdwatching in the WWF-protected lagoon of Orbetello and try to spot migrating pink flamingos as they cross the mirror-like waters.

Book a truffle-hunting outing with a local tartufaio in the forests surrounding San Miniato.

Walk through the monumental, colourful sculptures built by Niki de Saint Phalle in the Giardino dei Tarocchi, near Capalbio.

Road Cycling, Mountain Biking & Gravel Riding

Tuscany’s hilly geography has long made the region’s lesser-trafficked roads a playground for both professional and amateur cyclists. Many are the locals who enjoy spending their weekends on two wheels, with a growing number of enthusiasts choosing to do so on unpaved roads or steep mountain trails. Garfagnana, Monti Pisani and Monte Amiata are among the top destinations for daring mountain bikers. Recent years have seen a rise in popularity of gravel riding – the white roads of the Chianti are invaded by vintage bicycles in October during the 209km Eroica race, and similar events such as the Ganza race have followed suit, gathering athletes from all over the region on the dusty roads of Lajatico.

BEST SPOTS

For the best outdoor spots and routes, see the map on here.

Surfing

Tuscany may not be high on the list of top surfing destinations, but the 400km-long coast produces enough waves to attract a thriving community of surfers, especially between spring and autumn. Versilia is where the sport began to be practised in the 1980s and it’s still the main magnet for wave seekers, with lessons and board-rental services available in Forte dei Marmi, Marina di Massa and Viareggio.

Adrenaline Sports

ROCK CLIMBING

Tackle the 800m vertical wall of Monte Pizzo d’Uccello in the Alpi Apuane.

CAVING

Tour the 4.5km-long Grotta del Vento near Fornovolasco with a professional speleologist.

LONG-DISTANCE TREKKING

Take a weeklong walk in the woods in the Parco Nazionale delle Foreste Casentinesi.

CANYONING

Explore Tuscany’s deepest canyon, surrounded by wildlife, at Orrido di Botri.

SKIING

If you’re travelling in winter, head to Monte Amiata for a skiing session.

SNORKELLING

Check out the underwater scenery at the rocky Spiaggia delle Rocchette.

PARAGLIDING

Fly above the peaks and valleys of the Alpi Apuane near Castelnuovo di Garfagnana.

ACTION AREAS

Where to find Tuscany’s best outdoor activities.

FLORENCE & TUSCANY

THE GUIDE

Chapters in this section are organised by hubs and their surrounding areas. We see the hub as your base in the destination, where you’ll find unique experiences, local insights, insider tips and expert recommendations. It’s also your gateway to the surrounding area, where you’ll see what and how much you can do from there.

PONTE VECCHIO, FLORENCE | John Couture/shutterstock ©

Florence

THE RENAISSANCE AND BEYOND

There’s a lifetime worth of art to experience in the heart of Florence, but a dynamic international city hides behind its Renaissance facade.

Porta San Niccolò | STEFANO CELLAI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

When British aristocrats began travelling to Florence as part of their Grand Tour itinerary in the 17th century, the idea of a ‘museum city’ wasn’t yet fully formed. Only a tiny minority of people with the right connections could gain access to the masterpieces produced by the likes of Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci or Botticelli, kept inside the private halls of the elite’s opulent palazzi. Still, the idea that art could be both an integral part of the human experience and a representation of the individual’s potential had long been ingrained in the city’s identity – at least since the late 14th century, when painters, sculptors and architects at the top of their game reached Florence, attracted by the ruling class’ renewed interest in classical arts and philosophy.

The shift towards humanism that gave rise to the Renaissance would reach much of Europe. The body of masterpieces produced during Florence’s artistic golden age would eventually become available for the world to see due to the Enlightenment’s emphasis on public access to art for education and cultural enrichment. In a way, Grand Tourists paved the way for the millions of people who visit Florence every year, but when modern museums first appeared in the 18th century – the Uffizi opened to the public in 1769 – no one could imagine the impact the tourism industry would have on the city.

Upon crossing paths with a group of British tourists in 1725, English nobleman Francis Colman jotted down a complaint about overtourism, not knowing that the stone-paved streets where Dante had walked in the Middle Ages would draw tens of thousands of international visitors daily three centuries later. The 5-sq-km UNESCO-listed historic centre packs in a lifetime’s worth of sightseeing, but the Renaissance heritage is only part of the city’s character. Today, the difficult management of Florence’s global fame is a frequent topic of conversation among residents. The big attractions are all worth queuing for, but are hardly part of the everyday life of locals – leave some time aside to get to know the contemporary side of Florence, meet its cosmopolitan people, and discover beyond the obvious.

Basilica di Santa Croce | Mark Green/shutterstock ©

THE MAIN AREAS

PIAZZA DEL DUOMO & PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA

The historic heart of the city.

SANTA MARIA NOVELLA

Transport hub.

SAN LORENZO & SAN MARCO

The Medici’s neighbourhood.

SANTA CROCE & SANT’AMBROGIO

Nightlife and market atmosphere.

SAN NICCOLÒ, BOBOLI & PIAZZA PITTI

Gardens and views.

SAN FREDIANO & SANTO SPIRITO

Crafts, restaurants and bars.

BEYOND FLORENCE

Archaeology, hills and the Medici’s villas.

Find Your Way

Florence’s core is small – walking is often faster than getting around in any other way. A modern tram system gets you to the outskirts of the city and buses help you reach the hilly surroundings to see the city from above.

Plan Your Days

Despite its small size, Florence will easily fill up your days with art itineraries, long garden strolls, postcard-worthy views and flavourful markets. Plan carefully or go with the flow – either way, surprises await.

Ponte Vecchio | Puripat Lertpunyaroj/shutterstock ©

DAY 1

• Book an early morning ticket to the Uffizi to maximise your chances of avoiding crowds clogging up your views of Botticelli’s Primavera. Take two to three hours to explore the full collection, including the new hall dedicated to self-portraits.

• Take a stroll through Ponte Vecchio and reach Piazza Santo Spirito for lunch. Step into Brunelleschi’s basilica to check out the wooden crucifix attributed to Michelangelo, then stroll through the crafts and vintage stores of the Oltrarno.

• In the afternoon, walk up to Piazzale Michelangelo and the Abbazia di San Miniato al Monte to see the sun setting over the city.

DAY 2

• Take the full morning to explore the treasures of Piazza del Duomo. Climb on top of Giotto’s Campanile for spectacular views of the Duomo, then visit the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo to discover the heritage of this magnificent square.

• Walk to Florence’s oldest market in Sant’Ambrogio for lunch, then stroll through Piazza Santa Croce and the historic streets of the neighbourhood to reach Ponte alle Grazie and cross the river.

• In the afternoon, head to the recently reopened La Specola for a tour of rare, realistic and somewhat gory 18th-century anatomical waxes and continue to Serre Torrigiani for an evening aperitivo (pre-dinner drink) in the garden.

DAY 3

• In the morning, pay a visit to Michelangelo’s David at the Galleria dell’Accademia. Book your ticket in advance, and if time allows extend your Michelangelo itinerary with a visit at the Museo delle Cappelle Medicee.

• Take a walk through San Lorenzo’s leather market and enter Mercato Centrale for a taste of the local cuisine. After lunch, stop for coffee in one of the historic cafes on Piazza della Repubblica.

• If the weather is fine, dedicate the rest of your afternoon to the Giardino di Boboli, a prime example of Italian Renaissance gardens covering 45,000 sq metres behind Palazzo Pitti.

You’ll Also Want to…

Leave some time to experience Florentine life outside of museum and gallery doors.

DINE AT LOCAL TRATTORIAS

There is no shortage of great places to eat in Florence, from old-school family-run restaurants loyal to traditional recipes to contemporary takes on the city’s culinary heritage.

SHOP FOR CRAFTS

Visit artisan workshops in the neighbourhoods of Santo Spirito and San Frediano, historically home to sculptors, framers, bookbinders and designers.

DISCOVER MODERN ART

Not just Renaissance – step into Palazzo Strozzi for a world-class contemporary art show or get to know the local urban art community at Street Levels Gallery.

SIP ON A NEGRONI

The Negroni was invented in Florence a century ago – upgrade your post-dinner drinks with the city’s signature cocktail at one of the many late-night bars.

SEEK ROOFTOP VIEWS

Climb on top of Florence’s historic palazzi for a privileged view over city’s skyline. Every neighbourhood has at least one high-rise terrace – choose your favourite or try them all.

GO GELATO HOPPING

Florentines pride themselves on owning the invention of gelato – believe them or not, artisanal gelato opportunities abound in the Renaissance city.

TAKE A DAY TRIP

Leave the crowds behind and take a trip to the city’s outskirts, visiting either Fiesole or the Medici’s villa in Pratolino.

Piazza del Duomo & Piazza della Signoria

ART MUSEUMS | RENAISSANCE ARCHITECTURE | DANTE’S HERITAGE

Some of the most astonishing symbols of the Renaissance – the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore and its red dome, the towering Palazzo Vecchio and the Uffizi – are concentrated in the small area between Piazza del Duomo and Piazza della Signoria. Even for those who have been to Florence before, now is a good time to revisit the classics. The Uffizi’s new director, Simone Verde, is expected to lead a long series of initiatives in one of Europe’s most important art institutions, including the much-awaited reopening of the Corridoio Vasariano. The Battistero di San Giovanni’s medieval mosaics are being brought back to their former glory, offering a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see them up close. And that’s not all – the statues of Donatello, Brunelleschi and Giambologna representing the patron saints of Florence’s medieval guilds returned to their home in Orsanmichele for the first time in 2024. The concentration of art, history and architecture in such a small area can feel overwhelming – don’t attempt to take it all in at once.

HIGHLIGHTS

1Battistero di San Giovanni

2Campanile di Giotto

3Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore

4Museo dell’Opera del Duomo

5Piazza del Duomo

6Uffizi

SIGHTS

7Badia Fiorentina

8Basilica di Santa Trinità

9Chiesa & Museo di Orsanmichele

10Chiesa dei Santi Michele e Gaetano

11Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore

12Collezione Casamonti

13Cupola del Brunelleschi

14Fontana del Porcellino

15Gucci Garden

16Loggia dei Lanzi

17Museo Casa di Dante

18Museo della Misericordia

19Museo di Antropologia e Etnologia

20Museo Galileo

21Oratorio dei Buonomini di San Martino

22Palazzo Davanzati

23Palazzo Strozzi

24Palazzo Vecchio

25Piazza della Repubblica

26Ponte Santa Trinità

27Ponte Vecchio

SLEEPING

28Antica Torre di Via Tornabuoni 1

29Hotel Brunelleschi

30Hotel Calimala

31Palazzo Niccolini al Duomo

32Stella d’Italia

EATING

33Atto di Vito Mollica

34Cantinetta Antinori

35Coquinarius

36Da’ Vinattieri

37Festival del Gelato

38Gelateria Edoardo

39Grom

40I Buongustai

41I Fratellini

42Iginio Massari

43Il Trippaio del Porcellino

44‘Ino

45Maledetti Toscani

46Ora D’Aria

47Osteria Nuvoli

48Retrobottega

49Sophia Loren

50Trattoria Marione

51Venchi

DRINKING

52701 Rooftop Bar

53Amblé

Angel Roofbar (see 30)

54Caffè Concerto Paszkowski

55Caffè dell’Oro

56Caffè Gilli

57Club21

58Colle Bereto

59Il Vinile

60La Petite

61Mayday Club

62Move On

63Old Stove

64Procacci

65Rivoire

66Scudieri

67Serre Torrigiani in Piazzetta

68Strozzi Bistro

69ToscaNino Rooftop

70View on Art

71YAB

SHOPPING

72Giunti Odeon

73Mercato Nuovo

TOP TIP

Summers can be hot. If you’re planning to climb the Duomo, Giotto’s Campanile or the Torre di Arnolfo, keep in mind that hundreds of narrow steps await. People have fainted in the past – avoid the middle of the day when booking your tickets.

GETTING AROUND

The bustling Via dei Calzaiuoli cuts through the city’s core linking Piazza del Duomo with Piazza della Signoria, where some of the city’s most famous architectural wonders are located. Much of the area is reserved for pedestrians and walking is the best way of moving through this justifiably crowded area of Florence’s city centre – major sights are found just steps away from one another. Early mornings and late evenings are best for admiring structures like the Duomo and Palazzo Vecchio in relative peace.

Florence’s Supreme Poet

Meet Dante and discover the legacy of the Divine Comedy

There is no certainty that the great poet Dante Alighieri actually lived in this stone-built medieval house minutes away from Piazza della Signoria. Still, a visit the Museo Casa di Dante (museocasadidante.it; adult/child €8/5), updated in 2020, will introduce you to Florence’s best-known literary figure and life in the city in the 13th and 14th centuries. On the 1st floor, you’ll meet Dante himself through a holographic reproduction of the poet’s head hovering in the hall. Climb up to the 2nd floor to learn about Dante’s impact on the Italian language and conclude the tour on the 3rd floor with a virtual immersion into the world of the Divine Comedy.

Medieval Badia

Visit one Florence’s oldest convents

Rising for 70m in the city’s medieval heart, the hexagonal bell tower of the Badia Fiorentina (badiafiorentina.org; entry free) seems to challenge the nearby castle housing the Museo del Bargello. Founded in 978 as a convent for Benedictine monks, the gothic Badia Fiorentina functioned as an important centre of Florence’s religious life for centuries and appeared in Dante’s work. Step inside to admire masterpieces such as Giorgio Vasari’s Assunzione della Vergine in Cielo (1569) and Filippino Lippi’s Apparizione della Vergine a San Bernardo (1482–86). Every Monday between 3pm and 5.30pm it’s also possible to access the Chiostro degli Aranci, the outer cloister adorned with frescoes depicting the life of St Benedict (tickets €3).

Badia Fiorentina | ColorMaker/shutterstock ©

WHERE DANTE MET BEATRICE

Dante’s first encounter with his muse Beatrice Portinari, believed to have inspired one of the Divine Comedy’s leading characters, is said to have happened in the Chiesa di Santa Margherita dei Cerchi, steps from Museo Casa di Dante, in 1274. Florence’s best-known romantic tale does not have a happy ending – Beatrice married banker Simone de’ Bardi and died at the young age of 24, leaving a wound in Dante that would affect his later work.

Inside the church, a plaque points to Beatrice’s tomb (although her remains are likely buried in Santa Croce, next to her husband’s). Here, heartbroken visitors continue to leave notes in a wicker basket hoping for Dante’s muse to fix their romantic troubles.

WOMEN IN THE RENAISSANCE

Read about the role of women in the Renaissance period here.

From Tower House to Renaissance Palace

Step into the home of the Davanzati family

Behind the imposing wooden doors marking the entrance on Via Porta Rossa, the Museo di Palazzo Davanzati (bargellomusei.it; €6) takes you into the residence of one of Florence’s wealthiest Renaissance families. The Davanzati family purchased this imposing piece of 14th-century stone architecture in 1518 – the sculpted lion of the dynasty’s coat of arms still hangs above the entrance on the facade. Upgraded with luxurious furnishings that have made it intact to this day, the palace testifies to a phase of transition from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance, blending decorative elements of both eras. The structure, typical of a medieval tower house, is embellished with tapestries, paintings and ceramics from the 16th century, with the Sala dei Pappagalli, the Sala dei Pavoni (1st floor) and the studiolo (2nd floor) best representing the changing tastes of the time.

TOP EXPERIENCE
Piazza del Duomo

Nearly six centuries have passed since Filippo Brunelleschi completed the cupola topping the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, providing Florence with an architectural landmark that would be revered for centuries. But the octagonal dome is only the most visible of the many treasures you’ll encounter in Piazza del Duomo, where Gothic and Renaissance masters left an indelible mark on the city’s identity.

Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore | Alexander_Peterson/shutterstock ©

DON’T MISS

Brunelleschi’s cupola

Giorgio Vasari’s and Federico Zuccari’s Giudizio Universale

Lorenzo Ghiberti’s Porta del Paradiso

The view from Giotto’s Campanile

Museo dell’Opera del Duomo

Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore

To see the city’s most arresting building completed, Florentines waited over 140 years. Construction of the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore started in September 1296, under the supervision of the most prominent architect of the era, Arnolfo di Cambio, on the site formerly occupied by the Basilica di Santa Reparata, one of the earliest Christian temples in Florence erected to celebrate the victory of Florentine and Roman armies over the Ostrogoths in the 5th century. The convoluted construction process was worth the wait – once finished in 1436, Santa Maria del Fiore would become one of the world’s largest churches, stretching over 150m long in Florence’s central square.

Many important artists contributed to embellishing the church with their artwork. Agnolo Gaddi and Lorenzo Ghiberti created the intricate stained-glass windows, while Simone Il Pollaiolo initiated the geometric floor clad with white, black and red marbles. None of them, however, would be revered in the centuries that followed as much as architect Filippo Brunelleschi. Inspired by Rome’s Pantheon, Brunelleschi designed the terracotta-clad octagonal cupola crowning the cathedral, laying four million bricks from nearby Impruneta in a herringbone pattern to surpass 90m in height. The interior of this unprecedented feat of engineering, completed in 1436, would be later adorned by Giorgio Vasari’s and Federico Zuccari’s Giudizio Universale (Last Judgment; 1572–79), the fresco that can be admired by climbing the 463 steps leading to the cupola’s rooftop.

The striking facade appeared much later than the original project. Only in the 19th century, the local authorities decided to cover the bare exterior with the neo-Gothic design conceived by Emilio De Fabris. Surrounding the three portals a pattern formed by white, green and red marbles echoes the cladding of the nearby campanile, while the collection of statues observing the piazza from above pay tribute to Arnolfo Di Cambio’s original facade, never completed and dismantled in 1587.

PRACTICALITIES

Scan this QR code to buy tickets in advance from the Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore’s official website.

THE PIAZZA’S GIANTS

During the redevelop-ment of Piazza del Duomo in the early 19th century, the city of Florence decided to pay tribute its two most prominent architects, Arnolfo di Cambio and Filippo Brunelleschi, by placing their statues under the Duomo. Luigi Pampaloni designed the marble figures in 1827 – since then the minds behind Florence’s architectural icon have been looking up at their creation from the niches of the Palazzo dei Canonici.

Giotto’s Campanile

The 84.7m-tall bell tower of Santa Maria del Fiore was initiated by Giotto in 1334 and completed by Andrea Pisano and Francesco Talenti after he died in 1337. Before entering the square tower, stop to admire the external bas-reliefs around the base – the copies of Pisano’s 26 sculptures positioned inside hexagonal frames tell the story of the Genesis; look up to the niches to see the copies of 16 statues of prophets and patriarchs produced by Pisano, Nanni di Bartolo and Donatello. Reflecting the cathedral’s colour palette, the Campanile encloses a narrow staircase leading to the panoramic platform Talenti added in 1359 to seal off the tower – climb the 414 steps for a close encounter with Brunelleschi’s cupola and unmatched views of the surrounding red rooftops.

Giudizio Universale, Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore | Mistervlad/shutterstock ©

TOP TIPS

• You can enter the ground floor of the cathedral for free from the main entrance (in front of the baptistery), but a ticket is required to climb to the top of the cupola.

• Three passes are available to visit the sights in Piazza del Duomo: the Ghiberti Pass, the Giotto Pass and the all-inclusive Brunelleschi Pass. Purchase online in advance – if available, choose an early morning time slot.

• The city offers many spots for spectacular views of the Duomo rising above the city’s skyline, from the glorious terrace of Piazzale Michelangelo to the gardens of Villa Bardini and the lesser-known Orti del Parnaso.

Battistero di San Giovanni

Dante and many other prominent Florentines received their first blessing in the octagonal baptistery dedicated to St John the Baptist, the city’s patron saint, right in front of Santa Maria del Fiore. This prime example of Florentine Romanesque architecture was consecrated in 1059, making it one of the oldest churches still standing in Florence.

The 1330s and 1340s were busy years for Andrea Pisano – next to supervising the decoration of the Campanile following Giotto’s death, the artist crafted the first monumental door of the Battistero. The door is composed of 28 scenes from St John’s life sculpted in bronze, meant to be ‘read’ from the top left corner to the bottom right. Two more entrances were added to the baptistery at a later stage, both designed by Lorenzo Ghiberti, Brunelleschi’s rival. The northern door, completed in 1424, reflects Pisano’s template with 28 frames containing stories from the New Testament. The gilded eastern door, also known as Porta del Paradiso (Gates to Paradise), marked a new phase in Ghiberti’s career. The result of 27 years of work (1425–52), it is considered the artist’s masterpiece and one of the pioneering works of the Renaissance. At first glance, the 10 rectangular panels appear to portray 10 episodes of the Old Testament – but if you look closely, you’ll see that each image contains a collection of biblical stories, 47 in total. All three doors have been substituted with copies.

No longer a hub for religious affairs, the Battistero is now a museum housing the fine mosaics inspired by the Byzantine tradition that artists of the likes of Cimabue, Coppo di Marcovaldo and Meliore produced in the 13th century. In 2023, a major renovation project started in the Battistero – the 10 million tiles composing the ceiling mosaics will be restored over six years. During this period, visitors can see the artwork from close up by booking a guided tour (duomo.firenze.it; €65) on the scaffolding; places are limited so book ahead.

Battistero di San Giovanni | Ivo Antonie de Rooij/shutterstock ©

ARCHITECTURAL MYSTERY

Florentine architect Massimo Ricci spent much of his life trying to understand how exactly Brunelleschi managed to construct the world’s largest masonry dome over 500 years ago, using a system of chains and ropes to move and position each brick. To demonstrate his findings, Ricci built a scale replica of the famous cupola in the Parco dell’Anconella, east of the city centre, using half a million bricks to shed light on a mystery that has been bugging architects for centuries.

Museo dell’Opera del Duomo

As you’ve likely already gathered, many of the most precious artworks once adorning Piazza del Duomo have been removed from the square to be protected from the elements and the crowds. Copies offer the chance to experience the work of medieval and Renaissance artists in the setting they were intended to be placed in, but originals can be seen by stepping into the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo, where the largest collection of Florentine monumental sculpture is on display. Besides the impressive hall showcasing the three solemn doors that once allowed entry into the Baptistery – Andrea Pisano’s Porta Sud (1330–36); Lorenzo Ghiberti’s Porta Nord (1403–24); and Porta del Paradiso (1425–52) – the museum houses a reproduction of Arnolfo di Cambio’s 1296 facade design and the wonderful collection of 14th-century sculptures meant to adorn the church’s exterior. Of the 750 works gathered here, you’ll find big names such as Donatello’s Maddalena Penitente (1453–55) and Michelangelo’s Pietà Bandini (1547–55), one of the last works produced by the great Renaissance master.

A CAGE FOR CRICKETS

Look up at the base of Brunelleschi’s cupola from behind the Duomo and you’ll notice that only one side the lower perimeter of the dome is covered by marble columns, while the rest is left bare. Story has it that after architect Baccio d’Agnolo completed the first section of the covering in 1515, he asked Michelangelo to provide feed-back on his design. Michelangelo judged the work as terrible, saying the decoration looked like a ‘cage for crickets’ – d’Agnolo was so offended that he decided to abandon the project altogether, leaving the cathedral’s drum without cladding.

Loggia del Bigallo & Museo della Misericordia

Before leaving Piazza del Duomo through Via dei Calzaiouli, take a moment to admire the 1358 Gothic loggia facing the square. This elaborate facade marked the entrance to the headquarters of the Compagnia della Misericordia, the charitable organisation responsible for caring for abandoned children in the Middle Ages. A small museum dedicated to the legacy of the Compagnia della Misericordia, founded in 1244 and still active, is located steps away from the Loggia del Bigallo, in front of the Campanile. Inside the Museo della Misericordia, 80 exhibits ranging from the religious paintings of Santi di Tito and Pietro Annigoni to ancient manuscripts trace the origins of the charity.

TOP EXPERIENCE
The Uffizi

Exhibiting invaluable artworks produced between the 13th and 18th centuries, the Uffizi is one of the world’s great museums – an institution rooted in the Renaissance and deeply intertwined with Florence’s identity. Giotto, Botticelli, da Vinci, Michelangelo and Caravaggio are just some of the names you’ll encounter as you immerse yourself in a collection without parallel.

Uffizi courtyard | Puripat Lertpunyaroj/shutterstock ©

DON’T MISS

Sandro Botticelli’s Nascita di Venere

Michelangelo’s Tondo Doni

Tribuna degli Uffizi

Collezione degli Autoritratti

Caravaggio’s Giuditta che Decapita Oloferne

PRACTICALITIES

Scan this QR code to buy tickets in advance via the Uffizi’s official website. Note that a €4 fee is added to the ticket price when booking online.

The Origins of the Uffizi

Before the Uffizi – one of Europe’s first modern museums – opened to the public in 1769, only a few privileged people could admire the treasures acquired by the Medici. In 1560, Grand Duke of Tuscany Cosimo I commissioned the construction of the palace to court architect Giorgio Vasari, who designed a modern but classically inspired U-shaped set of galleries stretching from Palazzo Vecchio to the Arno river. The three-storey structure housed the duchy’s administrative and judicial offices (uffizi), until Francesco I, Cosimo’s introverted son and Grand Duke of Tuscany from 1574 to 1587, converted the upper floor into a gallery of ‘precious things’ to exhibit the family’s collection of paintings and sculptures. The addition of the Medicean Theatre (later dismantled) and the Tribuna designed by Bernardo Buontalenti attracted Grand Tourists with the right connections throughout the 17th and 18th centuries. With the end of the Medici line in 1737, the family’s collection was handed over to the Lorraine dynasty under the condition that it would remain in Florence.

Sandro Botticelli’s Nascita di Venere | CANBEDONE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

CORRIDOIO VASARIANO

After years of delays, the Corridoio Vasariano was meant to reopen to the public in 2024. Unfortunately, the Uffizi has yet to complete the renovation project and the opening has been pushed to late 2025. Connecting Palazzo Vecchio with Palazzo Pitti across Ponte Vecchio, the elevated corridor commissioned by Cosimo I to Giorgio Vasari in 1565 promises to exhibit Greek and Roman sculptures of the Uffizi collection and spectacular views of the city from the 72 windows opening onto the Arno.

The Exterior

As you walk towards the entrance of the Uffizi (on the eastern side of the square) from Piazza della Signoria, take a moment to admire Vasari’s architectural project. Following ideas of modernity of the time, the 16th-century palace replaced medieval buildings cramming the area with symmetrical corridors sustained by rows of Doric columns enclosing the wide Piazzale degli Uffizi. The straight lines marking the exterior guide the view towards the imposing portal opening onto the Arno, under which street artists set up their tripods. Cosimo I’s original commission included a series of sculptures of illustrious Florentines to be placed in the loggia – the Grand Duke would never see this request completed, but 28 statues were added by the Lorraine government in the 1840s, paying tribute to Tuscan artists, scientists, politicians and generals such as Giotto, Dante, Michelangelo, Machiavelli, Leonardo da Vinci and Galileo Galilei.

TOP TIPS

• Tickets include an entry to Opificio delle Pietre Dure and Museo Archeologico. Passepartout tickets (€38) include one entrance to Palazzo Pitti and Giardino di Boboli as well.

• Arrive 15 minutes before your booked entry time to pick up your paper ticket at the ticket office, then cross Piazzale degli Uffizi to access the museum. To complete the whole itinerary consider two to three hours.

• Between 10 November and 10 December and between 10 January and 10 February, tickets to the Uffizi cost only €12, less than half of the standard €25 ticket price.

Duecento e Trecento

Enter the museum and climb the monumental Scalone Granducale to reach the 2nd floor, where you’ll begin your Uffizi journey starting from the 13th century. It is tempting to dive right into the halls exhibiting religious works of medieval masters, but take a moment to look up at the ceiling of the Corridoio di Levante, the first corridor, richly decorated with grotesques executed by painters of Alessandro Allori’s workshop. As you enter the halls, gilded backgrounds exalt the 700-year-old panel paintings produced by some of Italy’s most revered Gothic artists – delicate representations of the Virgin Mary that once adorned Florentine churches, such as Madonna Rucellai by Duccio di Buoninsegna (1285), Maestà di Santa Trinita by Cimabue (1290–1300) and Maestà di Ognissanti by Giotto (1300–05), are gathered here.

Primo Rinascimento

The use of perspective, chiaroscuro techniques and realistic proportions lead you into the golden era of Florentine art. The innovative paintings of Masaccio and Beato Angelico mark the passage into the early Renaissance, together with the portraits of the Duke and Duchess of Urbino (1465–72) looking straight into each other’s eyes by Piero della Francesca. You may have to elbow your way to Sandro Botticelli’s La Primavera (1480) and Nascita di Venere (1485) hanging in halls 11 and 12 – getting close and personal with these large-scale masterpieces is worth your patience. Don’t miss the recently restored Terrazzo delle Carte Georgafiche – closed to the public for 20 years until 2021 – where 16th-century geographical maps of the Medici’s dominion in Tuscany, handpainted by Ludovico Buti, cover entire walls.

THE VIA DEI GERGOFILI BOMBING

Rising over 4m in height, the Albero della Pace bronze monument by sculptor Andrea Roggi found in Via dei Gergofili, right behind the Uffizi, commemorates one of the darkest days of Italy’s recent history. On 27 May 1993, a car bomb exploded killing five people, injuring 48 and destroying seven artworks including Bartolomeo Manfredi’s Giocatori di Carte and Gerrit van Honthorst’s Adorazione dei Pastori. Mafia group Cosa Nostra claimed responsibility for the terror attack, done to oppose Italy’s introduction of a new, harsh detention regime for convicted Mafia members.

Tribuna degli Uffizi

In 1776 German artist Johan Zoffany produced the painting Tribuna degli Uffizi – an emblematic image testifying to the significance of this octagonal hall for European art enthusiasts. Added to the Uffizi between 1581 and 1583, this red room designed by architect Bernardo Buontalenti under the orders of Francesco I was meant to function as a cabinet of curiosities featuring elements symbolising the four elements of the natural world – fire, earth, air and water – including a cupola clad with nearly 6000 ostrich shells. Housing the core of the Medici collections, the Tribuna became a key destination on the Grand Tour of British and German aristocrats who travelled for months to see its contents, with the Greek marble statue Venere de’ Medici, dated to the end of the 1st century BCE, as the main highlight.

Tribuna degli Uffizi interior | SILVERFOX999/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Secondo Rinascimento

Following the section dedicated to Renaissance artists beyond Tuscany, take the U-turn to reach the Corridoio di Ponente and meet the protagonists of the High Renaissance. Battesimo di Cristo (1475–76), Annunciazione (1472) and the unfinished Adorazione dei Magi (1482) are the three paintings exhibited in Leonardo’s hall, followed by Michelangelo’s only existing panel painting – the circular Tondo Doni (1504–06), still contained within its original, intricately carved frame – and Raffaello’s delicate Madonna del Cardellino (1506). Besides the astonishing beauty of the artwork, this space recalls the few years of the early 16th century in which three of the world’s most revered artists found themselves crossing paths in Florence, leaving an indelible mark on the city’s history and heritage. On the same floor, you’ll also find the sleeping Ermafrodito Roman sculpture (2nd century BCE) and the neoclassical Sala della Niobe, an 18th-century architectural addition to the Uffizi wanted by Lorraine Grand Duke Peter Leopold as a stage for the 12 Roman copies of original Greek statues, unearthed in a vineyard in 1583, representing the tragic myth of Niobe.

A NEW SEASON FOR THE UFFIZI

After eight years, the director of the Uffizi Eike Schmidt passed the museum’s keys to Roman art historian Simone Verde, who took over the management of Florence’s top art institution in 2024. Many records were broken during Schmidt’s tenure, including the number of yearly visitors (over five million in 2023). With over 1800 new acquisitions, 159 shows and large investments in digital communication, Schmidt’s era has increased the Uffizi’s global popularity like never before – but not without criticism. In 2024, Schmidt ran for mayor, but didn’t win the election. What Verde’s direction will mean for the Florentine museum is yet to be seen.

Collezione degli Autoritratti

To put a face on some of the great names of art history, continue the tour of the Uffizi by walking back down to the 1st floor, where you’ll find the collection of 250 self-portraits hanging on pink walls since 2023. Chronologically ordered, the paintings range from Renaissance ‘selfies’ of Andrea del Sarto to those of Rembrandt, Antonio Canova and contemporary greats such as Ai Weiwei.

Cinquecento e Seicento

Less crowded than the exhibition spaces dedicated to High Renaissance art are the halls housing works from the 16th and 17th centuries, the final stretch of the Uffizi’s complete itinerary updated in 2018. Observe the impact of Renaissance values beyond Tuscany in the work of artists from Lombardy, Ferrara, Bologna and Rome before returning to Florence with the scenes depicted by Mannerist innovators such as Pontormo and Rosso Fiorentino. Next, check out the 1st floor’s main draw – Caravaggio’s gruesome Giuditta che Decapita Oloferne (1620) and Medusa (1598). According to the Greek myth, the goddess Athena transformed Medusa’s hair into a bunch of snakes, punishing the woman for desecrating her temple with Poseidon. Turned into a monster, Medusa could turn people into stone with her gaze – until hero Perseus chopped off her head. Caravaggio captures the moment after death.

The Life of St Martin

A series of vivid frescoes

The Oratorio dei Buonomini di San Martino was founded in 1441 by Archbishop Antonino Pierozzi, portrayed above the entrance, to support Florentine families that had fallen into poverty. It was adorned by the artists of Domenico Ghirlandaio’s workshop who completed the 10 lunettes with vibrant scenes from the life of St Martin in the late 15th century.

La Berta, Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore | vvoe/shutterstock ©

GUELPHS & GHIBELLINES

A fierce battle between opposing political groups came to define medieval Florence. In the 13th century, the Pope-aligned Guelphs clashed with the Emperor-supporting Ghibellines. According to Dante, the conflict began when Knight Buondelmonte de’ Buondelmonti broke off his engagement with a Ghibelline woman to marry a Guelph instead. This act was considered a grave insult and provoked revenge from the Ghibelline family – Buondelmonte was murdered on Easter Day 1216 in the area of Ponte Vecchio and the two groups’ antipathy turned into a series of full-blown wars.

Florence’s urban landscape still reflects this era, with tower houses of warring families and the Palagio di Parte Guelfa, the Guelphs’ headquarters, now serving as a public library.

EATING IN DUOMO & SIGNORIA: GOURMET OPTIONS & OSTERIE

Coquinarius: Behind the Duomo, this modern-rustic option combines Tuscan tradition with international wine. noon-3pm & 7pm-midnight Mon-Sat €€

Sophia Loren: This massive restaurant under Piazza della Repubblica’s arcade has something for everyone, from Neopolitan pizza to oysters. 8.30am-11pm €€

Osteria Nuvoli: Join the people spilling onto the sidewalk with their vino in hand, or enjoy some authentic Tuscan fare at a table in the cellar. 8am-10pm Mon-Sat €

Strozzi Bistro: This venue merges elegant design with contemporary interpretations of local and international recipes. 10am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat €€€

Under the Gaze of Petrified Berta

Blink and you’ll miss it

As you walk towards the Duomo on busy Via de’ Cerretani, look up at the wall of the Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore – camouflaged in the stonework is the head of Berta disturbingly observing the flowing crowds. According to a local folk tale, the woman was petrified for mocking heretic scientist Cecco d’Ascoli as he walked under her window as he was escorted to his death sentence in 1327. Besides the cursed sculpture, the Romanesque church is home to the 13th-century Madonna col Bambino reliquary attributed to Coppo di Marcovaldo.

The Patron Saints of Florentine Guilds

See Orsanmichele’s sculptures back in their home

You’d hardly guess that Orsanmichele (bargellomusei.it; adult/child €8/2; closed Tue) used to be a church by walking in front of it. Originally designed as a public grain market and storehouse by Arnolfo in 1284, the ground floor of this gothic, blocky structure, locked between Via dei Calzaiuoli and Via dell’Arte della Lana, halfway between Piazza del Duomo and Piazza della Signoria, was converted into a place of worship in the mid-13th century. Blending civic and religious functions, this hybrid space has recently undergone a year-long renovation, reopening in 2024. Bernardo Daddi’s Madonna col Bambino, Angeli e Santi (1347) enclosed in Orcagna’s finely sculpted marble tabernacle (1359) is the ground floor’s focal point. On the upper floors, you can now find the collection of sculptures representing the patron saints of Florence’s Arti (guilds), commissioned by wealthy corporations to some of the greatest Renaissance artists. Among the 13 impressive figures, initially placed in the exterior niches (where you can now see copies), are works by Lorenzo Ghiberti, Donatello, Brunelleschi, Giambologna and Andrea del Verrocchio.

THE MANY LIVES OF PONTE SANTA TRINITà

Santa Trinità bridge, known as the go-to spot to admire Ponte Vecchio soaked in afternoon sunlight, has a rather tumultuous history.

After the destruction of four previous bridges at the site (in 1259 under the weight of a crowd, then by flood in 1269, 1333 and 1557), Cosimo I commissioned architect Bartolomeo Ammannati to build a new span across the river in 1567.

In 1608, to celebrate the wedding of Cosimo II and Maria Maddalena of Austria, marble statues representing the four seasons were placed at the corners of the bridge.

Santa Trinità was destroyed yet again in 1944, this time by the Nazis during the ‘night of the bridges’, but was rebuilt once more in 1958, returning it to its former elegance.

Big Names in the Contemporary Art Scene

International shows at Palazzo Strozzi

The imposing stone-built fort commissioned in the late 15th century by powerful banker Filippo Strozzi – a rival of the Medici – is locked between the fashionable Via de’ Tornabuoni and Piazza Strozzi, which connect through the elegant inner courtyard designed by Benedetto da Maiano. Palazzo Strozzi (palazzostrozzi.org) is now Florence’s destination for contemporary art shows – Marina Abramović, Jeff Koons, Anish Kapoor and Maurizio Cattelan are among the big names that have appeared on the museum’s calendar in recent years.

EATING IN DUOMO & SIGNORIA: STREET FOOD & TRATTORIE

I Due Fratellini: A hole-in-the-wall sandwich bar serving delish panini with a glass of Chianti. 11am-4.30pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun €

Il Trippaio Del Porcellino: A street-food icon serving trippa and lampredotto from a stall in Piazza del Mercato Nuovo. 9am-6.30pm €

‘Ino: Flavour-packed sandwiches – choose your own fresh fillings or ask Alessandro for a recommendation. noon-3pm €

Da’ Vinattieri: A beloved eatery serving traditional Florentine street food in Via Santa Margherita near Dante’s museum. 11.30am-6.30pm €

Trattoria Marione: Rustic ambience and a menu filled with Tuscan classics – you can’t go wrong. noon-3pm & 6.30-11pm €€

I Buongustai: Historic, lunch-only trattoria in Via dei Cerchi serving homemade Tuscan pastas under the arches. noon-3.30pm Mon-Sat €

Retrobottega: Modern deli serving artisanal products, schiacciata and aperitivi. 9.30am-10.30pm Mon, Wed, Thu & Sun, to 1am Fri & Sat €

Maledetti Toscani: ‘Cursed Tuscans’ they are not! Enjoy one of the rustic sandwiches on the go. 8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun €

Florence’s Centre of Power

700 years of city government

For over seven centuries, Palazzo Vecchio has been the seat of the local government, continuing to house the mayor’s office to this day. The castle-like palace, constructed above the remains of an ancient Roman theatre, was designed by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1299 but expanded greatly as the Medici took over the symbolic throne.

Leading to the entrance are the copies of four statues representing different stages of Florence’s tumultous political history: Donatello’s Marzocco lion holding the city’s emblem and Judith and Holofernes, Michelangelo’s David and Baccio Bandinelli’s Hercules and Cacus. As you step into the door you’ll enter Michelozzo’s 1453 courtyard (free to visit), finely decorated by Giorgio Vasari in 1553 on the occasion of Joan of Austria’s and Francesco I de’ Medici’s wedding with embossed floral patterns climbing on the columns surrounding the central fountain topped by a copy of Andrea Verrocchio’s 1557 Putto sculpture.

Buy a ticket (bigliettimusei.comune.fi.it; €12.50) to step into the 1250-sq-metre Salone dei Cinquecento, the heart of the palace originally commissioned by preacher Giacomo Savonarola to gather the new 500-member-wide, citizen-led governing body he established after the brief ousting of the Medici in 1494. In 1540, the first Grand Duke of Tuscany Cosimo I de’ Medici moved in with his court. During this era, the Salone was expanded by Giorgio Vasari and adorned with the glorious paintings we see today. Huge depictions of two important wars won by the Florentine army hang on the walls – the battle against the Pisans fought between 1495 and 1509, and on the eastern side is the conquest of Siena (1553–55). At the centre of the coffered ceiling, spot L’Apoteosi di Cosimo I (1565), a godly portrait of the Grand Duke.

Continue to the private rooms of Florence’s former rulers – especially intriguing are the quarters of Duchess Eleonora di Toledo, on the 2nd floor, enriched with a chapel decorated by Agnolo Bronzino. Gaze at the large-scale frescoes by Francesco Salviati depicting Roman general Furio Camillo in battle – a hint to the Medici’s retake of power after the Republican period – in the Sala delle Udienze, where the Duke used to meet his guests, then step into the Sala dei Gigli to find Ghirlandaio’s Apoteosi di San Zanobi (1482–84) fresco and Donatello’s original Judith and Holofernes (1457–64). By booking a Secret Passages tour through Mus.e (musefirenze.it/en/attivita/percorsi-segreti; €5) you’ll also gain access to Francesco I’s Studiolo, a hidden Wunderkammer where Cosimo’s son collected ‘rare and precious things.’

MICHELANGELO: GRAFFITI ARTIST

Look on the right side of Palazzo Vecchio’s main entrance and you may notice a rough portrait carved on the stone facade This is L’Importuno – Michelangelo’s best-known act of vandalism, believed to have been etched by the Renaissance artist with a knife held behind his back.

According to the story, Michelangelo was standing by Palazzo Vecchio listening to a public speech held in the Loggia dei Lanzi, when a man started importunating him. The sculptor decided to carve the profile of this annoying figure on the palace’s wall, making him an enduring (but barely visible) presence in the city’s heart.

EATING IN DUOMO & SIGNORIA: HIGH-END DINING

Ora D’Aria: Right behind the Uffizi, you’ll find a creative Michelin-starred menu that’s ideal for a refined meal. 7-10pm Mon-Sat €€€

Iginio Massari: One of Italy’s most renowned pastry chefs, Iginio Massari opened this high-end patisserie in 2021. 8am-7.30pm €€€

Atto di Vito Mollica: Michelin-starred Atto by chef Vito Mollica serves seasonal tasting and à la carte menus in the halls of Palazzo Portinari. 10am-11pm €€€

Cantinetta Antinori: The menu matches the vast selection of Marchesi Antinori wines from the Chianti region. 12.30-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm Mon-Sat €€€

A Monumental Sculpture Gallery

A close look at the statues of the Loggia dei Lanzi

An open-air museum in the true sense of the term, Loggia dei Lanzi is the terrace opening on Piazza della Signoria, in front of Palazzo Vecchio’s entrance, once used to host the public assemblies, speeches and ceremonies the Florentine government held in front of city residents gathered in the square. Today the loggia houses an impressive collection of Roman and Renaissance statues composing one of Florence’s rare free-to-visit art exhibitions. Among the masterpieces on display under the loggia are Giambologna’s Ratto delle Sabine (Abduction of the Sabine Women), dating back to 1583, and the bronze Perseo by Benvenuto Cellini, a mannerist masterpiece depicting Greek demi-god Perseus holding up the freshly decapitated head of Medusa, which has been standing in the loggia since the mid-16th century and took nine years to complete.

Benvenuto Cellini’s Perseo, Loggia dei Lanzi | xsmirnovx/shutterstock ©

FLORENCE’S TOWER HOUSES

The stone-built case-torri (tower houses) that dot Florence’s heart are a fascinating architectural remnant of the Middle Ages. These residential structures rise above the city’s red rooftops, taking you back to an era when powerful families erected hermetic homes to protect themselves from enemy attacks and show off their wealth. The towers generally had a rectangular or square base and could have up to six or seven stories.

About 50 case-torri still stand. The best-preserved are the Torre della Castagna, the Torre degli Amidei and the Torre de’ Barbadori. You can even sleep in one – the Hotel Antica Torre di Via Tornabuoni offers spectacular 360-degree views over the city from its crenellated rooftop.

GELATO IN DUOMO & SIGNORIA

Venchi: Turin chocolate makers Venchi serve gelato in front of their chocolate waterfall, steps away from Ponte Vecchio. 9.30am-12.30am €€

Festival del Gelato: The gelato comes in dozens of changing variations, from the classic to the deliciously experimental. 10.30am-11pm €

Gelateria Edoardo: This artisanal gelateria behind the Duomo serves gelato made from organic seasonal ingredients. 11.30am-10.30pm €

GROM: This Turinese brand is always a safe bet when it comes to gelato. Try a generous scoop of the Piedmontese nocciola. 10am-11.30pm Mon-Thu & Sun, to 12.30am Fri & Sat €

Plant-Based Strolls

Shop for plants and flowers in Piazza della Repubblica

Between 8am and 2pm on Thursdays the southern arcade of Piazza della Repubblica turns green thanks to the little plant and flower market stretching from the square’s triumphal gate toward Piazza della Parte Guelfa. Take a stroll through exotic species and colourful vases.

Piazza della Repubblica | nelo2309/shutterstock ©

FASHION CENTRAL

Via de’ Tornabuoni – one of the city’s richest areas since the 14th century – is Florence’s most fashionable street, housing exclusive boutiques belonging to the world’s best-known Italian and international fashion brands.

At the end of the street, you’ll find the museum dedicated to one of Florence’s most iconic brands, founded by stylist Salvatore Ferragamo in 1927. Housed inside the castle-like Palazzo Spini Feroni below Ferragamo’s boutique, the Musée Salvatore Ferragamo exhibition space will guide you through the evolution of Italian fashion over the 20th century.

The fashion tour continues to Piazza della Signoria, where Gucci Garden houses three floors of all things Gucci. Find a cocktail bar, a museum tracing the brand’s century-long history, and a fine-dining restaurant with a menu designed by superstar chef Massimo Bottura.

DRINKING IN DUOMO & SIGNORIA: HISTORIC CAFES

Café Scudieri: Facing the Battistero di San Giovanni, this opulent cafe with its antique crystal chandeliers has been running since 1939. 7am-10pm

Caffè Gilli: In the 1920s, Italian futurists met over coffees in this belle-époque cafe in Piazza della Repubblica. 8am-midnight

Caffè Concerto Paszkowski: This Art Nouveau cafe is named for the Polish entrepreneur who first opened a brewery here in 1846. 8am-1am Sun-Fri, 9am-2am Sat

Caffè Rivoire: One of Florence’s oldest chocolate shops, opened in 1872 by chef Enrico Rivoire after Italy’s unification. 7.30am-11pm

Bookish Art Deco Theatre

Read or watch a film at the Giunti Odeon

Cinema and literature have long gone hand in hand. Florence’s oldest movie theatre has recently made this link even more explicit by reopening as a bookstore in 2023 after two years of renovations. The historic main hall of the Art Deco Odeon cinema, first opened in 1922 inside the Palazzo dello Strozzino, has been freed of its seats to make space for the shelves of Florentine publisher Giunti (giuntiodeon.com). The upper balconies, the glass dome and the screen have been left intact to maintain the theatre’s atmosphere, creating a bookstore without an equal in Italy. Browse through thousands of titles, take a literary break on one of the plush cinema chairs or visit after 9pm for an original language screening.

The Piglet’s Market

Leather goods under the historic Loggia del Mercato Nuovo

The vaults of the Loggia del Mercato Nuovo, constructed in 1551 as a covered space for the textile trade (spot the sheep sculpture, the medieval symbol of Florence’s wool guild, on H&M’s wall), protect from the elements a dozen colourful stalls selling leather purses, jackets and wallets. The market sits next to the bronze Fontana del Porcellino piglet statue – hence the nickname Mercato del Porcellino – promising good luck to anyone who rubs its nose and places a coin in its mouth. Don’t expect the piglet (it’s actually a boar) to help you find good deals at the market – given its position on the prime tourist route, the product quality is dubious, to say the least.

RENAISSANCE OPIUM WARS

On the facade of the Palazzo Bartolini Salimbeni, the palace designed in 1520 by famous architect Baccio d’Agnolo and now housing the Collezione Casamonti contemporary art gallery, you’ll notice a band of flowers sculpted under the windows. These are poppies – legend has it the Bartolini, a family of wealthy textile merchants operating in Florence, invited their competitors for dinner the night before a large wool auction and drugged all of them with opium so that they wouldn’t show up for the bidding. The Bartolini made a fortune by acquiring the wool at the lowest possible price and decided to celebrate their successful business strategy by making poppies the dynasty’s emblem.

Artefacts from Far-Away Lands

Explore Italy’s first museum of anthropology

Perhaps you were not planning to learn about Maori wakas or Hindu Kush sculptures when planning your trip to Florence, but step into the Museo di Antropologia e Etnologia (sma.unifi.it/vp-89-collezioni-antropologia-e-etnologia.html; adult/child €6/3) and you’ll be transported to remote corners of the globe through 25,000 exhibits obtained by explorers, collectors and colonisers over 500 years. Founded in 1869 and managed by Florence’s University, Italy’s first museum of anthropology is often deserted, despite its vicinity to the Duomo. Inside, you’ll discover outdated research practices such as 18th-century facial plaster casting, a painful method for documenting the morphology of local peoples done by pouring liquid gypsum on a person’s face; the work of Borgo San Lorenzo’s Art Nouveau artist Galileo Chini at the court of the Thai King Rama VI; colourful mourning masks carved by Papuan artists; and clothing used by Sami people to protect themselves from Lapland’s freezing temperatures.

DRINKING IN DUOMO & SIGNORIA: COCKTAIL BARS & Clubs

701 Rooftop Bar: The Gallery Hotel Art’s intimately sophisticated cocktail lounge sits an elevator ride away from Ponte Vecchio. Book ahead. 4-10.30pm

La Petite: As small as the name suggests, this petite cocktail bar opens for brunch and continues to pour excellent drinks until the late hours. 10.30am-2am

Procacci: The speciality of this historic cafe is the aperitivo-sized truffle sandwiches served with a generous pour of one of their many wines. 10am-9pm

Move On: Cocktails and vinyl records make a good mix in this Piazza del Duomo bar. Try for a seat on the balcony for a cathedral view. 10am-1am Sun-Fri, to 2am Sat

Colle Bereto: Attracting well-heeled Florentines to Piazza Strozzi, this swish lounge comes to life after dark. 8am-3am Mon-Wed, to 4am Thu-Sat, 9am-3am Sun

YAB: Central Florence’s historic club located below the former Odeon cinema has been active since the 1980s. 11.30pm-4am Mon & Wed-Sat

Club21: Drawing a relatively young crowd, this underground dance hall runs house and techno nights, plus LGBTQIA+-friendly events on Saturday. 11.45pm-4.30am

Mayday Club: The quirky, kitsch decor and retro atmosphere form the backdrop of this long-standing cocktail bar. 8pm-2am Tue-Sat

Baroque Monochrome

Discover a trove of 17th-century statuary

Known to have existed since the 11th century, the large, ochre-coloured Chiesa dei Santi Michele e Gaetano dedicated to saints Michael the Archangel and Cajetan was radically transformed in the 17th century, acquiring the baroque taste of the time. Marble sculptures loom above the monochromatic sandstone facade facing a monumental staircase. Inside, a remarkably harmonious nave welcomes visitors with a combination of grey pietra serena and elegant marble finishes soaked in natural light. In the upper band of the nave is one of the most important sculptural collections of 17th-century Florence – a series of larger-than-life marble statues of the Apostles created by artists of the likes of Giovan Battista Foggini, Antonio Novelli and Giovanni Baratta.

THE ARNO ON A BARCHETTO

To admire Ponte Vecchio from a unique perspective, join one of the barchetto cruises run by the renaioli during the warmer months.

In the early 20th century, the renaioli were city workers who extracted rena (sand) for construction projects from the riverbed using special barchetti (small boats) and skills were passed down through generations. As technology progressed the renaioli disappeared, but the Renaioli Association renovated the last surviving barchetti, repurposing them to allow visitors to see the city from water level.

Tours run only in the spring and summer months (from May to September) and should be booked in advance via renaioli.it/gite.

The Renaissance’s Scientific Legacy

A well-organised paean to science and scientists

Paying tribute to the scientific heritage of the Renaissance, the museum that takes its name from one of the most important astronomers of the 16th century welcomes adults and kids into its halls filled with scientific instruments from the past. Walk past the monumental sundial in Piazza dei Giudici to find over 1000 tools collected by the Medici and Lorraine dynasties that compose the collection of Museo Galileo (museogalileo.it; adult/child €13/7), from Antonio Santucci’s 1593 gilded armillary sphere to the telescopes built and used by Galileo Galilei to discover Jupiter’s satellites, plus the macabre shrine where the scientist’s middle finger is kept intact.

Ghirlandaio’s Stories of St Francis

Visit Basilica di Santa Trinita’s Cappella Sassetti

Facing the Colonna della Giustizia (Column of Justice) that Cosimo I received as a gift in 1554 by Pope Pius IV to celebrate Florence’s victory over Siena in the Battle of Marciano, Bernardo Buontalenti’s mannerist facade of the Basilica di Santa Trinita hides one of Domenico Ghirlandaio’s most impressive frescoes. Adorning the Cappella Sassetti, the 1483 Storie di San Francesco d’Assisi vividly depicts scenes from the life of St Francis adapted to include prominent figures of the Florentine Renaissance, including Lorenzo the Magnificent. Entering the church is free, but you will need to put €2 into the slot to turn on the light and see the fresco in full colour.

DRINKING IN DUOMO & SIGNORIA: BARS WITH A VIEW

ToscaNino Rooftop: Book ahead for top views of Brunelleschi’s dome paired with a fine selection of wines. 9am-11pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, 10am-11pm Sun

Angel Roofbar: Set on multiple levels, the rooftop bar of Hotel Calimala offers dazzling views of most Florentine landmark buildings. 5-11pm Mon & Tue, noon-11pm Wed-Sun

View on Art: Hotel Medici’s rooftop bar is nothing spectacular in terms of service, but the view over the Duomo makes up for it. 11am-11.30pm

Caffè dell’Oro: Enjoy the stunning views of Ponte Vecchio from this sophisticated bar and cafe where comfy sofas face the pedestrian Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli. 7am-midnight

A Bridge Like No Other

Take a stroll on Ponte Vecchio

Built in 1345, Florence’s Ponte Vecchio is one the city’s best-known symbols, both because of its unusual architecture and its convoluted past. Originally, the bridge was mainly populated by beccai (butchers), but in 1593 Grand Duke Ferdinando I, who could not stand the smell of meat and the insalubrious state of the market, evicted all businesses involved in ‘vile arts’, allowing only goldsmiths and jewellers to trade on the bridge. The 48 jewellery stores perched on the bridge survived the 1944 bombing of the city during WWII – all other bridges in central Florence were destroyed – and the major flood that hit the city in 1966. Cross the bridge during the day to see high-end jewellery and luxury watches sparkle in the shop windows; return in the evening to see resident street musician Claudio Spadi play his guitar by the bust of Benvenuto Cellini.

Chiesa dei Santi Michele e Gaetano | simona flamigni/shutterstock ©

FROM AGE-OLD SQUALOR TO NEW LIFE

The text on Piazza della Repubblica’s neoclassical Arch of Triumph, known as the Arcone, reminds us why this square looks so different from other parts of central Florence: ‘The ancient centre of the city, restored from age-old squalor to new life.’ Originally the site of the city’s medieval market, the area had fallen into disrepair by the 1800s. With Florence temporarily serving as Italy’s capital from 1865 to 1871, there was a push to modernise the city and improve its infrastructure. In the 1880s, the old, cramped market and surrounding buildings were demolished, making way for the grand, open piazza you see today. Piazza della Repubblica’s cafes became the meeting spot for Florence’s intelligentsia, although the redevelopment was criticised for erasing Florence’s medieval heritage.

DRINKING IN DUOMO & SIGNORIA: BEER & APERITIVO

Old Stove: The classic Irish pub atmosphere in this spot by Piazza di Parte Guelfa draws in Florence’s international student crowds. 10am-2pm

Amblé: Stop for a spritz or a fresh juice and some tasty light bites amid vintage furniture and unique interior-design choices. 6pm-midnight Tue & Wed, from noon Thu-Sun

Il Vinile: The unpretentious atmosphere of this little Via Dante Alighieri cafe makes it a local favourite for aperitivo and post-dinner drinks. 8.30am-2am Mon-Sat, from 9.30am Sun

Serre Torrigiani in Piazzetta: Stop in this delightful urban garden for a pre- or post-dinner cocktail. 11.30am-10pm Sun-Tue, to 11pm Wed & Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat

Santa Maria Novella

STREET ART | LOCAL LIFE | RELIGIOUS ART

At first glance, you might be led to think that this is an area for transit and little else. Trains directed to every corner of Italy depart from Giovanni Michelucci’s Fascist-era railway hub – one of the few Florentine examples of the Rationalist architecture in vogue in 1930s Italy. But the hectic atmosphere of Florence’s largest station overshadows the character of a neighbourhood defined by its diverse population. Long-time residents, immigrants and wealthy Polimoda fashion students cross paths daily in the streets dotted by historic bakeries, antique galleries and multilingual bookstores that branch out from Piazza Santa Maria Novella. Lined with high-end hotels, the loggia of the former San Paolo Hospital and the impressive facade designed by Leon Battista Alberti for the 13th-century Dominican convent, the lively square is the obvious starting point to get acquainted with the neighbourhood, but don’t stop there – get lost in its busy streets to discover urban art, quirky vintage stores and fragrances of a past era.

HIGHLIGHTS

1Basilica di Santa Maria Novella

SIGHTS

2Chiesa di Ognissanti

3HZERO Museum

4Museo Marino Marini

5Museo Novecento

6Oratorio della Congregazione dei Vanchetoni

7Stazione di Santa Maria Novella

8Street Levels Gallery

SLEEPING

925hours

10Casa Howard

11Garibaldi Blu

12Grand Hotel Minerva

13Hotel Ambasciatori

14La Locandiera B&B

15L’Orologio

16New Generation Hostel

17Palazzo Montebello

18Westin Excelsior

EATING

19Bar Piccioli

20Caffè Cortese 900

21Cioccolateria Ballerini

22Enoteca Bruni

23Forno Becagli

24Giotto Pizzeria

25Il Contadino

26Mattacena

27Ostaria dei Centopoveri

28Pasticceria Gamberini

San Paolino (see 9)

29Trattoria 13 Gobbi

DRINKING

30Arts Inn

31Enoteca Bellini

32Giacosa

33Joshua Tree Pub

34La Boite

35Manifattura

36SE.STO on Arno

37Space Club

SHOPPING

38Arte e Libri

39Benheart

40Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella

41Tartan Vintage

42Todo Modo

GETTING AROUND

Regional and high-speed trains depart from the Santa Maria Novella (SMN) station to all corners of Tuscany and major Italian cities. The station is very central – you are only a short walk from the Duomo. Exit the train station to find the Alamanni tram stop. The T2 tram runs to the airport. If you’re planning a road trip around Tuscany, the majority of car rental companies have offices on Borgo Ognissanti, near the Europa parking space.

TOP TIP

Since 2024 all trams and buses in Florence accept contactless payments. You no longer need to purchase a ticket in advance and validate it. Just tap your Mastercard or Visa card on the black machines and you are good to go.

Urban Art Hub

Dive into Florence’s street art scene

Street Levels Gallery (streetlevelsgallery.com) is Florence’s only art space showcasing urban art. This narrow Via Palazzuolo gallery exhibits works by Florentine street artists who have spent much of their career adding a touch of colour to the cityscape, including Clet, internationally known for his ironically altered street signs, Ache77, Exit Enter and many others. Beyond framing art that usually lives on wild concrete, Street Levels runs many public art initiatives in Florence and beyond, including the 2023 decoration of Via Palazzulo. A dozen artists from all over Italy came to Florence to paint the shutters of the street’s shops, creating an open-air museum that aims to reclaim the street’s historically bad reputation.

TOP EXPERIENCE
Basilica di Santa Maria Novella

Dominican monks founded the Basilica di Santa Maria Novella in the 13th century, setting the stage for what would later become a monumental complex housing the work of Gothic masters and Renaissance pioneers. Step beyond Leon Battista Alberti’s facade to encounter Giotto, Masaccio, Ghirlandaio and many of the Florentine artists who have left a mark on art history books.

Basilica di Santa Maria Novella | Nejdet Duzen/shutterstock ©

DON’T MISS

The facade

Giotto’s crucifix

Brunelleschi’s crucifix

Cappella Maggiore

Cappella Strozzi

Masaccio’s Trinità

Cappellone degli Spagnoli

PRACTICALITIES

Scan this QR code to find prices and visitor information, as well as detailed information on Santa Maria Novella’s artworks, on the complex’s official website.

Leon Battista Alberti’s Facade

A 15m-long inscription stretching under the basilica’s tympanum makes clear to whom we owe the basilica’s current form – ‘Giovanni Rucellai, son of Paolo, year 1470’. A member of one of Florence’s most powerful families, Rucellai sponsored the reconstruction of Santa Maria Novella’s exterior, commissioning the facade project to none other than Leon Battista Alberti, the influential architect who had already completed the dynasty’s residence, Palazzo Rucellai in Via della Vigna Nuova.

Alberti’s vision for the basilica’s symmetrical front section complemented an existing Gothic lower section formed by three portals and six niches. On top of it, the architect added a harmonious composition made of bichromatic squares, rectangles, triangles and circles echoing the Florentine Romanesque style. Dominating the structure from the tympanum’s centre is the beaming sun the Dominican Order adopted as its emblem, but look closely and you’ll notice another symbol repeated above the portal – a sail blowing in the wind, the heraldic emblem of the Rucellai dynasty recalling the sea journeys done by the merchants who built the wealth of one of Florence’s richest families.

Giotto’s Crucifix

As for many medieval churches in Florence, the 100m-long main nave is barely decorated. Apart from a pattern of black and white marble that outlines the Gothic arches pointing to the ceiling from the pietra serena columns, the church is solemnly simple. Standing out on this minimal backdrop is the crucifix attributed to Giotto, a gilded artwork hovering above the main nave, containing a realistic image of Christ believed to have been painted by the Gothic master between 1288 and 1289.

EGNAZIO DANTI’S ASTRONOMICAL INSTRUMENTS

Between 1572 and 1575, the Dominican cosmographer Egnazio Danti (1536–86) enriched Alberti’s facade by installing two astronomical instruments on the basilica’s front – a large quadrant with sundials and a bronze armillary sphere to calculate the day of the spring equinox.

Brunelleschi’s Wooden Crucifix

The first chapel on the left side of Santa Maria Novella is home to one of the rare sculptures produced by Filippo Brunelleschi, the architect responsible for the Duomo’s cupola. The wooden crucifix adorns the simple Cappella Gondi and is believed to have been completed in 1415.

Cappella Maggiore & Cappella Strozzi

Santa Maria Novella’s largest chapel, the Cappella Maggiore, hosts Domenico Ghirlandiaio’s vivid frescoes depicting scenes from the Virgin Mary’s life, adapted to include portraits of the Tornabuoni family who commissioned the artwork in 1485. Nearby, Filippino Lippi’s visually striking Cappella di Filippo Strozzi contains one of the church’s most impressive cycles of paintings – the lives of St Philip and John the Evangelist, completed in 1502.

Masaccio’s Trinità

On the left nave of the basilica spot one of the earliest Renaissance paintings to adopt the perspective technique, the Trinità (Holy Trinity) produced by Renaissance pioneer Masaccio between 1425 and 1426.

TOP TIPS

• Tickets can be bought on-site on the day of the visit; there’s no need to book ahead.

• Santa Maria Novella is typically not as crowded as other major sights, but the early opening hours are best if you’d rather have the church and its cloisters to yourself.

• Mus.e runs €5 group tours of the Basilica daily. Book via musefirenze.it.

• The normal opening hours (9am-5.30pm) are reduced on Friday (11am-5.30pm) and Sunday (1-5.30pm).

Chiostro Verde

Taking its name from the green earth base used for the frescoes, the Chiostro Verde (Green Cloister; 1332–50) is adorned with paintings by Paolo Uccello and leads to the visually striking Cappellone degli Spagnoli, titled after the Spanish congregation that worked here in the 16th century.

Twentieth-Century Art at Museo Novecento

Discover the contemporary side of Florence’s art heritage

Behind Michelozzo’s loggia, adorned with ceramics by Andrea della Robbia, the Museo Novecento (museonovecento.it; adult/child €9.50/4.50) showcases the work of some of the big names of Italy’s contemporary art scene, including Giorgio De Chirico, Gino Severini, Giorgio Morandi and Renato Guttuso. The museum is located in the refurbished halls of the 13th-century San Paolo Hospital, originally built to assist the pilgrims visiting the Basilica di Santa Maria Novella, located opposite the square. Besides its permanent exhibition, Museo Novecento runs a rich program of temporary, international events year-round. Check what’s on at the official website.

Chiesa di Ognissanti | Elena Odareeva/shutterstock ©

BOOKS, VINTAGE STORES & CRAFTS IN SANTA MARIA NOVELLA

Arte e Libri: Over 15,000 rare and antique art publications in Italian, English and French. Find large-format visual collections that are unavailable elsewhere.

Todo Modo: Enjoy world literature, wine and testaroli al pesto, plus occasional English-language storytelling nights in this wood-furnished bookstore with a cafe hidden in the back.

Tartan Vintage: The timeless collection is personally selected by the shop owners. Enter the dimly lit store and start browsing through hundreds of quirky items dating to the 1960s and ’70s.

Benheart: This store might remind you of an old artisan workshop, but Benhart’s designs are as contemporary as it gets. The handmade leather jackets can be customised with a one-of-a-kind painting.

EATING IN SANTA MARIA NOVELLA: OSTERIE & TRATTORIE

Osteria dei Centopoveri: Fixed lunch menus include a pasta dish, main course and wine for €12 to €14. No bookings. noon-3pm & 7-11pm €

Il Contadino: A favourite local lunch spot offering one- or two-course meat-centric menus at a fixed price. noon-3pm & 6.30-10.30pm €

Mattacena: A long list of Tuscan classics make up the menu at this steak restaurant around the corner from Santa Maria Novella. Book in advance. noon-3.30pm & 7-11pm €€

Trattoria 13 Gobbi: A Via del Porcellana institution, Tredici 13 Gobbi serves heartwarming Tuscan cuisine in a rustic atmosphere. 12.30-3pm & 7.30-11pm €€

The Romantic Tale of Botticelli’s Muse

Step into the travertine facade of Chiesa di Ognissanti

Facing a square lined by luxury hotels and the French Consulate, Chiesa di Ognissanti is far from one of the most visited churches in Florence, but its dimly lit interior houses a long list of exceptional artworks. A 1315 crucifix attributed to Giotto hangs on the left side of the altar, while Domenico Ghirlandaio’s Madonna della Misericordia (Madonna of Mercy and Lamentation; 1467) adorns the Vespucci chapel, named after the family who financed many of the artworks found inside the church today.

To the Vespucci family belong Amerigo, the Florentine explorer who gave his name to America, and Simonetta, believed to have been Sandro Botticelli’s muse. According to a much debated romantic myth, Simonetta Vespucci inspired both the Birth of Venus and the Primavera. While historians doubt the claim, Botticelli’s attachment to the Vespuccis’ church is hard to deny – inside you’ll find both his fresco Sant’Agostino nello Studio (1480) and his tombstone, right next to Simonetta’s.

FLORENCE’S GREEN LUNG

For years, Parco delle Cascine was the beating heart of Florence’s nightlife, housing some of the city’s biggest clubs. No longer – this large park now hosts a different set of activities. Every Tuesday morning, Florence’s largest market stretches for over 1km along the Arno. The Teatro del Maggio Musicale (maggiofiorentino.com), opened in 2014 to replace the former city theatre, hosts opera and classical music performances year-round. In summer, the Ultravox festival brings emerging artists to the park, with many free events held under the stars. And in June, the Visarno Arena on the northern side of Parco delle Cascine hosts Firenze Rocks (firenzerocks.it), Italy’s largest rock music festival.

APERITIVO & Nightlife IN SANTA MARIA NOVELLA

La Boite: A friendly, one-room neighbourhood bar attracting locals to Piazza San Paolino during aperitivo hour. 4pm-midnight

Enoteca Bellini: Stop in for the daily-changing selection of wines and bruschetta at this buzzing enoteca in Via della Spada. 5-11pm Tue-Sat, to 10pm Sun

Social Hub Rooftop Bar: Creative drinks by the pool come with stunning views of Brunelleschi’s dome. 6-11pm

SE.STO on Arno: Set in a modern glass cube atop the five-star Westin Excelsior Hotel, SES.TO offers stunning views of the city. 11am-1am

Joshua Tree Pub: Historic pub with a dive-bar atmosphere steps away from Santa Maria Novella station. 11.30am-2am

Manifattura: Dimly lit cocktail bar in Piazza San Pancrazio where drinks are made exclusively using Italian spirits. 6pm-2am Wed-Sun, to 1am Tue

Arts Inn: A long list of elaborate cocktails served in a former artist’s studio converted into a cosy bar. 6.30-midnight Tue-Thu, to 1am Fri-Sun

Space Club: The largest club in Florence’s city centre draws young crowds to Santa Maria Novella; entry €10 to €20. 11.45pm-4am Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat

Heavenly Ceilings

Gaze at 17th-century frescoes

Once the headquarters of the Vanchetoni Congregation, a Franciscan brotherhood founded in the late 16th century and led by Ippolito Galantini, the disused Oratorio della Congregazione dei Vanchetoni houses a spectacular ceiling covered in 13 frescoes painted around 1640 by artists such as Domenico Pugliani, Il Volterrano and Lorenzo Lippi. As the trompe l’oeil emblem seemingly floating in the sky at the centre of the ceiling suggests, the construction of this space was financed by the Medici. Behind the altar and the main hall, find the Cappella del Beato where the remains of Galantini, beatified in 1825 by Pope Leo XII, are exhibited in a glass case – 40 days of indulgence are granted to anyone visiting the corpse, as the sign under the coffin states. This little-known oratory – one of Santa Maria Novella’s hidden wonders – is open to visitors between 3pm and 5pm Saturday only. It’s free to enter and a small team of volunteers is happy to provide information.

A Miniature World for Miniature Trains

Enter one of Europe’s largest model railway museums

The playful HZERO Museum (hzero.com; adult/child €12/6) housed inside the former Ariston movie theatre, steps away from Santa Maria Novella, takes you to the miniature world created by Sicilian entrepreneur Giuseppe di San Giuliano, who dedicated 40 years of his life to building tiny landscapes and cities for his toy trains to ride through. Covering approximately 280 sq metres, the kid-friendly installation has 70 trains running continuously from mountains to coastlines. In 2023, the museum expanded to include TÅG, a Nordic-inspired bistrot where the matcha and sushi bar resembles a departing vintage train in a Wes Anderson movie.

THE INVENTION OF THE NEGRONI

Order a Negroni anywhere, and you’ll likely get the classic mix of gin, Campari and sweet vermouth. This cocktail originated in 1919 when Florentine Count Cammillo Negroni asked the bartender at Caffè Casoni (later Caffè Giacosa) to modify his Americano by adding gin. That odd request produced one of the best-known Italian cocktails around the world, the Negroni.

Legend says the Count, though jealous of his creation, couldn’t keep it secret, especially as he reportedly drank up to 20 a day. The bar where Count Negroni used to drink shut down in 2017, but a new Giacosa opened in 2023 in Via della Spada, inspired by the 19th-century cafe where the legendary cocktail was invented.

EATING IN SANTA MARIA NOVELLA: GOURMET BITES

Giotto Pizzeria: Run by award-winning pizza chef Marco Manzi, Giotto bakes gourmet pizzas in a sophisticated atmosphere. noon-11.30pm €€

San Paolino: Filled with natural light, this upscale restaurant serves Mediterranean dishes and cocktails. noon-10.30pm €€

Caffè Cortese 900: Raw-food chef Vito Cortese offers vegan ice cream, cakes, biscuits and pralines under Museo Novecento’s shaded loggia. 11am-7pm Fri-Wed €€

Enoteca Bruni: With some 3000 natural and rare wines, you’ll have to trust Bruni’s sommeliers to know what to pair with their seasonal tasting menus. 4-11.30pm Tue-Sat €€€

Medieval Remedies & Fragrant Colognes

Shop for fragrances at one of Europe’s oldest pharmacies

Part museum, part (pricey) apothecary, the Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella (eu.smnovella.com) is one of the oldest continuously operating pharmacies in Europe. Its origins can be traced back to 1221, when the Dominican monks from the nearby Basilica di Santa Maria Novella began cultivating herbs to make healing balms and ointments. The current pharmacy opened its doors to the public in 1612, when it began specialising in fragrances and perfumes for the Florentine elite and the travelling nobility. Enter the scented hall via the floral doorway in Via della Scala and awaken your senses as you roam past the walnut furniture brimming with artisanal colognes.

Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella | Andrei Antipov/shutterstock ©

FLORENCE’S HOUSING SHORTAGE

Among the issues caused by overtourism, the shortage of affordable housing for residents in Florence is one the most frequently discussed. The rise of short-term rentals and the lack of regulation for platforms like Airbnb has driven up property prices and reduced the supply of long-term rental housing, making it difficult to impossible for locals to find affordable homes. Florence has become one of the cities with the highest concentration of Airbnb rentals per capita globally.

In 2023, the city council attempted to introduce a new law to prohibit the opening of new short-term rental accommodation in the historic centre, but the proposal received a massive backlash from property owners and was withdrawn in 2024, following court appeals.

Marino Marini’s High Horses

Discover the sculptures of the eclectic Tuscan artist

Artist Marino Marini (1901–80) could hardly have found a better stage for his quirky equestrian statues. Housed inside the former Benedictine monastery Chiesa di San Pancrazio, the Museo Marino Marini (museomarinomarini.it; adult/child €10/6) hosts 180 contemporary artworks of the Pistoia-born sculptor whose knights and horses have been exhibited in New York, London and Milan. Flooded with natural light, the contemporary figures are strikingly juxtaposed against the Renaissance architecture of Leon Battista Alberti, who designed the green and white marble Cappella Rucellai in 1457 for one of Florence’s most influential merchants, Giovanni Rucellai.

COFFEE & BAKERIES IN SANTA MARIA NOVELLA

Pasticceria Gamberini: Baristas in classic white uniforms churn out hundreds of espressos daily at this well-established patisserie. 7am-10pm €€

Cioccolateria Ballerini: This historic bakery prepares artisanal chocolate, seasonal delights and crunchy schiacciata bread. 7.30am-8pm Mon-Sat €

Bar Piccioli: The daily-changing variety of crunchy croissants made by owner Claudio at this old-school cafe are some of the best in town. 7am-6pm Tue-Sun €

Forno Becagli: Tiny but full of flavour, locals line up outside Forno Becagli to purchase its pan di ramerino (rosemary bread) and other delicacies. 6.30am-8pm Mon-Sat €

San Lorenzo & San Marco

MEDICI HERITAGE | BUSTLING MARKET | RENAISSANCE ICONS

Behind the stately walls of Palazzo Medici Riccardi, Florence’s most famous ruling dynasty began its ascent to power – a slow conquest of the city’s top institutions, which led to three centuries of nearly continuous hegemony. San Lorenzo and San Marco have been largely shaped by the Medici. Besides the family’s first major Florentine residence, home of Benozzo Gozzoli’s astounding Cappella di Magi, you’ll find the Medici’s family church, their place of burial and the institution that succeeded Duke Cosimo I’s Academy of Drawing Arts – the Galleria dell’Accademia – which acquired Michelangelo’s David in 1563. Today Florence’s 19th-century Mercato Centrale forms the lively core of the neighbourhood, where people flow shoulder to shoulder in search of an ever-more-rare authentic souvenir. The quieter area of San Marco draws in students, who absorb new knowledge in the university’s halls to later distribute it on the steps of Piazza Santissima Annunziata, a favourite afternoon drinking spot.

HIGHLIGHTS

1Basilica di San Marco

2Galleria dell’Accademia

SIGHTS

3Basilica della Santissima Annunziata

4Basilica di San Lorenzo

5Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana

6Casa Martelli

7Cenacolo di Sant’Apollonia

8Chiostro dello Scalzo

9Fortezza da Basso

10Giardino dei Semplici

11Leonardo da Vinci Interactive Museum

12Museo de’ Medici

13Museo degli Innocenti

14Museo delle Cappelle Medicee

15Museo di Geologia e Paleontologia

16Museo di San Marco

17Museo Leonardo da Vinci

18Opificio delle Pietre Dure

19Palazzo Medici Riccardi

SLEEPING

20Antica Dimora Johlea

21Hotel Number Nine

22Ostello Bello

23Plus Hostel

24Social Hub

EATING

25Antica Gelateria Fiorentina

26Antica Pasticceria Sieni

27Antica Trattoria da Tito

28Arà

29Atomic Falafel

30Caffè Rainer

31Da Nerbone

32Fermentino

33Forno Bruschi

34Fuoco Matto

35Gelatarium

36Il Cantuccio di San Lorenzo

37Il Vegetariano

38La Boutique del Sud

39La Gelatiera

40La Ménagère

41Libri Liberi

42Mercato Centrale

43My Sugar

44Osteria Pepó

45Osteria Vecchio Cancello

46Pugi

47Ristorante Cafaggi

48SimBIOsi

49Trattoria Guelfa

50Trattoria Mario

51Trattoria Palle d’Oro

52Veg & Veg

DRINKING

53Alibi

54Antiche Dogane

55Caffè del Verone

56Casa del Vino

57Finnegan’s

58Fratelli Zanobini

59PanicAle

60Sabor Cubano

61Un Caffè

62Vineria degli Aldobrandini

63Vino Divino

SHOPPING

64Il Papiro

65Melrose Vintage

66Scarpelli Mosaici

67Street Doing

GETTING AROUND

Reach San Lorenzo from the Santa Maria Novella railway station in a matter of minutes along Via Nazionale. Once you enter the market area, walking is the only way of moving around – the crowds and stalls occupy the streets surrounding the Mercato Centrale during the day. To get to San Marco continue to Via Cavour, the neighbourhood’s main artery linking Piazza San Marco with Piazza del Duomo.

TOP TIP

Movie night? The Cinema La Compagnia, in Via Cavour, screens a curated selection of original language films and hosts international film festivals year-round. Tickets only cost €6 and the program ranges from niche documentaries to new releases.

Market Vibes from Morning to Night

Taste diverse flavours at Florence’s largest covered market

Florence’s traditional and contemporary souls coexist in the city’s central market, a two-storey structure marking the heart of San Lorenzo, steps away from the railway station. Enter the ground floor to find historic stalls selling fruit, vegetables, meats and fish throughout the day; take the escalator to the 1st floor to access a modern, 3000-sq-metre food court where charcuterie boards, pizza, dumplings and vegan burgers are served until late evening on shared tables around the bar island. Encircling the Mercato Centrale is San Lorenzo’s outdoor leather market, where belts, jackets, bags, wallets and notebooks of dubious quality face a constant flow of people elbowing their way through the stalls.

The Medici’s Family Church

A plain facade that hides a trove of Renaissance treasures

Constructed over the foundation of a 4th-century church dedicated to St Ambrose, the Basilica di San Lorenzo (sanlorenzofirenze.it; €9) was drastically transformed over the 15th century, when the Medici declared it their family church and commissioned its monumental expansion. Brunelleschi provided Cosimo the Elder – whose tomb is found in the Basilica’s crypt, now Museo del Tesoro di San Lorenzo – with a new design in 1425 but the facade’s renovation was commissioned to Michelangelo nearly a century later, in 1516, by Pope Leo X, son of Lorenzo the Magnificent. Michelangelo’s Carrara-marble project never took off, and the Basilica has maintained its bare look to this day. Still, between the pietra serena columns that line the candid white and grey main nave are exceptionally executed works of art, such as Filippo Lippi’s Annunciazione Martelli (1440), Rosso Fiorentino’s Sposalizio della Vergine (1523) and Donatello’s intricately sculpted pulpits, Pulpito della Resurrezione and Pulpito della Passione (1460). Left of the altar you’ll find Filippo Brunelleschi’s Sagrestia Vecchia (Old Sacristy), one of the architectural masterworks of the author of the Duomo’s cupola, adorned with Donatello’s sculptural details, and once you turn around to leave the church through the main entrance you’ll be able to spot the Tribuna delle Reliquie, the tribune above the main portal designed by Michelangelo.

Mercato Centrale | Rafael Dias Katayama/shutterstock ©

THE MEDICI’S BALLS

As you stroll through San Lorenzo, you’ll inevitably spot the Medici’s emblem hanging on many of the neighbourhood’s buildings. The shield adorned with six or seven spheres continues to loom over Palazzo Medici Riccardi, the Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana and the ceiling of the Basilica di San Lorenzo.

No one knows exactly what the balls of the Medici’s emblem mean. One hypothesis suggests that they represent the marks left by the Mugello Giant on the shield of Averardo, an ancestor of the Florentine rulers. A more worldly take on the story says that the spheres are simply coins, linking the family with their banking activities.

EATING IN SAN LORENZO & SAN MARCO: GOURMET BITES & PIZZA

La Ménagère: A dramatic upscale interior attracts photo-snapping visitors and the impressive selection of bites and cocktails keeps them happy. 8am-2pm €€

SimBIOsi: The rustic-chic atmosphere and wood-fired pizzas are the restaurant’s main draws, but there’s also good coffee and handmade pasta. noon-11pm €€

Fuoco Matto: Neapolitan pizza done the right way and served in chic surroundings near Piazza dell’Indipendenza. noon-2.30pm & 7-11.30pm Sun-Fri, 7-11.30pm Sat €€

Arà: Sicilian specialities are available at this little food store in Via degli Alfani, steps away from the Galleria dell’Accademia. 10am-9pm €

TOP EXPERIENCE
Basilica & Museo di San Marco

Facing the homonymous square in the heart of Florence’s university district, the Dominican Basilica di San Marco has been the home of prominent figures of the Renaissance, including painter Beato Angelico and revolutionary monk Girolamo Savonarola. Enter to find the work of Giambologna or visit the museum for one of Florence’s most precious collections of 15th-century religious art.

Basilica di San Marco | Dan74/shutterstock ©

TOP TIPS

• Entering the basilica is free, while the museum requires a ticket (adult/child €8/2). No need to book ahead.

• The museum closes at 1.50pm, earlier than most other museums in Florence. Plan your visit for the morning.

• Find Baccio d’Agnolo’s two lion heads, meant for the Duomo, hidden in the second courtyard.

PRACTICALITIES

Scan this QR code for opening times on the museum’s official website.

The Basilica

Neoclassical on the outside, baroque on the inside, the Basilica di San Marco has transformed multiple times since its 12th-century origins. Cosimo the Elder, who lived in the nearby Palazzo Medici Riccardi, commissioned its renovation to architect Michelozzo in 1437, but the convent wouldn’t acquire its current shape until the late 18th century. Enter the single nave to admire the 16th-century chapels designed by Giambologna – the most impressive of them being the delicate Cappella di Sant’Antonio commissioned by the Salviati family and decorated by Alessandro Allori.

The Museum

A separate entrance leads to San Marco’s monumental area, housing the world’s largest collection of works by Beato Angelico (1395–1455), the early Renaissance painter who would be beatified by Pope John Paul II in 1984. Enter via Michelozzo’s Chiostro di Sant’ Antonio (1440), exhibiting portraits of illustrious Dominicans. Turn right to access the Sala del Beato Angelico, renovated in 2020, which gathers 16 masterpieces by the Dominican friar, including the Deposizione di Cristo panel (1434). In the former chapter house find Angelico’s Crocifissione con i Santi (1442) and San Marco’s original bell sculpted by Donatello. Upstairs are the cells of the monks, including that of Savonarola, who condemned the Florentine Renaissance for its profanity, led a revolt against the Medici and was later executed for it.

A Library with a Michelangelesque Touch

Discover books, manuscripts and Egyptian papyri

Attached to the Basilica di San Lorenzo is the Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana (bmlonline.it, entry included in the basilica ticket), commissioned to Michelangelo by Giulio de’ Medici, a member of the Medici family who would later become Pope Clement VII, to house Cosimo the Elder’s and Lorenzo the Magnificent’s vast text collection. Today the library holds over 11,000 manuscripts and 1681 original 16th-century books, plus the largest collection of Egyptian papyri in Italy. Enter the reading room via Michelangelo’s marble vestibule then continue to the 19th-century Tribuna d’Elci, a neoclassical circular hall added to include books donated by Florentine scholar Angelo Maria D’Elci.

MICHELANGELO’S DRAWING ROOM

In 1975, during an inspection of a room located under the apse of the Cappelle Medicee’s New Sacristy, a series of wall drawings were discovered behind a layer of plaster. The chamber, used as storage for decades, is believed to have hidden Michelangelo in 1530 when he feared retaliation from Pope Clement VII, a member of the Medici family, due to his work for the republican government during the Medici’s exile from Florence. Fifty years later, Michelangelo’s drawing room has opened to the public. A trial of guided tours ran from November 2023 to July 2024, selling out immediately. Future dates have yet to be announced – check bargellomusei.beniculturali.it for updates.

The Dukes’ Place of Rest

See Florentine mosaics and Michelangelo’s architecture

Matching the opulent palaces where the Medici lived throughout their lives, the space Florence’s ruling family chose for their burial is a grandiose piece of art in the heart of the city. Enter the Museo delle Cappelle Medicee (bargellomusei.it/musei/cappelle-medicee; €9) from the rear end of the Basilica di San Lorenzo in Piazza di Madonna degli Aldobrandini to find yourself under the 59m-high cupola of the Cappella dei Principi where Cosimo I, Francesco I and Cosimo III tombs are surrounded by the city’s Florentine mosaic, or commesso. Continue to the Sagrestia Nuova, the marble hall designed by Michelangelo, where Lorenzo the Magnificent and his brother Giuliano are buried. This smaller room, built between 1520 and 1534, is a sculptural wonder where symmetrical marble arches, pillars, balustrades and frames are adorned with monumental sculptures whose details are elevated by two carefully constructed sources of natural light, which Michelangelo viewed as an essential element of his design.

EATING IN SAN LORENZO & SAN MARCO: TRATTORIE

Trattoria Guelfa: This local favourite near the bustling Mercato Centrale offers a full Tuscan lunch for less than €15. noon-2.45pm & 7-10.45pm €

Trattoria Mario: Bustling trattoria serving authentic Tuscan cuisine since 1953. No reservations. noon-3pm Mon-Sat, plus 7.30-10pm Fri €

Il Vegetariano: Cosy spot with a changing menu of veg dishes. 12.30-2.30pm Mon, 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Fri, 7.30-10.30pm Sat & Sun €

Ristorante Cafaggi: A favourite among locals, this historic restaurant offers a changing menu of seasonal classics. 12.30-3pm & 7-10pm Mon-Sat €

Trattoria Palle D’Oro: Open near Mercato Centrale since 1860, Palle d’Oro makes for an ideal lunch break in San Lorenzo. hours vary €

Antica Trattoria da Tito: This historic locale has been cooking up Tuscan classics for over a century. Book ahead. 12.30-3pm & 7-11pm €€

Osteria Pepó: Serving big portions of pastas and meats, this popular spot by the market is often full – book ahead. noon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm €€

Osteria Vecchio Cancello: Need a change from bustling trattorias? Try the calm confines of this osteria. noon-2pm & 7-10pm Wed-Mon €€

TOP EXPERIENCE
Galleria dell’Accademia

Standing below the glorious David is worth queuing for, but Michelangelo’s masterpiece is just one of the hundreds of artworks exhibited at the Galleria dell’Accademia, ranging from 13th-century gilded religious panels to Lorenzo Bartolini’s 18th-century busts of famous Florentines. Born as a Medici-financed drawing academy in 1563, the Galleria opened to the public as a museum in 1784 and has since grown to become one of Florence’s top museums.

Gipsoteca Bartolini | Adwo/shutterstock ©

DON’T MISS

Michelangelo’s David

Giambologna’s Ratto delle Sabine

Michelangelo’s Galleria dei Prigioni

Pacino di Buonaguida’s L’Albero della Vita

Gipsoteca Bartolini

PRACTICALITIES

Scan this QR code to buy tickets for your preferred time slot via Galleria dell’Accademia’s official website.

Sala del Colosso

Drawing all the attention at the heart of this elegantly renovated hall stands the impressive 1581 plaster model of Giambologna’s dynamic Ratto delle Sabine (Abduction of a Sabine Woman), the precursor of the finished sculpture now on display at the Loggia dei Lanzi. Surrounding this central piece, the deep-blue walls of the gallery are adorned with the grand Deposizione dalla Croce (1503–07) by Filippino Lippi and Il Perugino, and Botticelli’s Madonna con Bambino, San Giovannino e Due Angeli (1468), an early work of the Florentine artist who would later become one of the Renaissance frontmen.

Galleria dei Prigioni

You’ll be tempted to walk straight to David at the end of the corridor, but take some time to admire the four ‘slaves’ or ‘prisoners’ crafted by Michelangelo between 1519 and 1534 for Pope Julius II, standing on both sides of the gallery. Purposely left incomplete to communicate the human struggle of leaving the material world behind to reach a higher spiritual dimension, these figures, all over 2.5m tall, are subsequent to Michelangelo’s great nude and express the artist’s famous ability to free bodies trapped in stone with a chisel. The tension creates the illusion of people actually trying to escape the white marble with their bodies contorted in strained poses.

Michelangelo’s David

Michelangelo was only 26 when he completed this colossal work, unveiled in 1504. Sculpted from a single block of Carrara marble, Michelangelo’s 5-tonne David has been the Galleria’s unchallenged focal point since 1874, when it was moved to its current location from Piazza della Signoria. Commissioned during the brief period when the Medici were ousted from Florence and the city was declared a republic (1494–1512), the statue symbolised freedom from authoritarian rule before becoming known as a canonical representation of male beauty. The statue’s impressive scale – surpassing 5m in height – is matched by its intricate details, with veins, hair and muscles finely carved to an extreme level of realism. Emilio de Fabris, the architect who also designed the facade of Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, created the tribune where David stands today.

THE OTHER DAVIDS

The Galleria’s David may be the original, but it’s not the only David in town. Two copies of Michelangelo’s sculpture exist in Florence. The first is found in Piazzale Michelangelo – architect Giuseppe Poggi, who designed the square, placed the David in the centre of the terrace to celebrate the completion of the project. The story goes that 18 oxen were needed to transport the bronze statue to the Piazzale in 1873. A second copy is located in Piazza della Signoria, right in front of the entrance to Palazzo Vecchio.

Gipsoteca Bartolini

Showcasing the models created by 19th-century sculptor Lorenzo Bartolini, the Gipsoteca echoes the atmosphere of an artist’s studio, with hundreds of busts and statues of prominent figures crowding the hall. Spot Brunelleschi, Machiavelli and Elisa Bonaparte.

TOP TIPS

• It’s best to book your tickets months in advance during peak season via the Galleria’s official website (galleriaaccademiafirenze.it).

• The reservation fee is €4 and tickets can be collected at the office in front of the museum’s entrance in Via Ricasoli.

• Even with a timed ticket, expect queues during the high season.

Sale del ’200 e del ’300

Religious paintings from the 13th and 14th centuries adorn the three small rooms showcasing the Florentine Gothic style of Giotto’s contemporaries. The central hall is dedicated to painter and miniaturist Pacino di Buonaguida, whose L’Albero della Vita (1310–15) represents biblical tales on the golden background in vogue at the time.

Museo degli Strumenti Musicali

Historical musical instruments are on show in the eastern wing of the museum – access it via the Sala del Colosso to see Stradivari’s 1716 violin and two instruments built by Bartolomeo Cristofori (1655–1731), the inventor of the piano and employed as the Medici’s musical artisan.

The Medici’s First Palace of Power

Start your Medici-inspired tour at Palazzo Medici Riccardi

Considered the prototype of a Renaissance palace, the austere Palazzo Medici Riccardi (palazzomediciriccardi.it; €15) was the first major residence of the family of bankers who would eventually dominate the city. Cosimo the Elder commissioned the architect Michelozzo with the construction of the stone palace in 1444, after an initial proposal by Brunelleschi deemed too sumptuous was rejected. Enter via the Cortile di Michelozzo, or Column Courtyard, where the Medici’s coat of arms hovers above Baccio Bandinelli’s 1519 sculpture of Orpheus. Ascend the courtyard’s staircase to reach the captivating Magi Chapel. Benedetto Gazzoli’s masterpiece, completed in 1459, is a visual feast adorning the palace’s private chapel with intricate frescoes illustrating the journey of the three kings to Jerusalem. Progress onwards to the Galleria degli Specchi, a baroque addition by the Riccardi family, who acquired the building in 1659. This hall, resplendent with mirrors, houses the stunning fresco Apoteosi dei Medici (1685) by Luca Giordano, a tribute to the Medici’s enduring influence.

FORTEZZA DA BASSO EVENTS

A short walk from San Lorenzo is the massive Fortezza da Basso, the defensive structure commissioned by Alessandro de’ Medici in 1534 that sits right outside Florence’s historic centre. Beside it’s imposing walls there is little to see here – the castle-like structure has been converted into a modern exhibition space that hosts many important events year-round.

In April, find the Mostra Internazionale dell’Artigianato (International Crafts Fair), which gathers hundreds of artisans from around the world to showcase their work. In January and June, designers and brands exhibit their creations during Pitti Uomo, one of Italy’s most important fashion events followed by many exclusive events taking place in the city.

COFFEE & SWEETS IN SAN LORENZO & SAN MARCO

Antica Pasticceria Sieni: In the heart of San Lorenzo, this century-old cafe serves espressos and a vast selection of artisanal pastries. 7.30am-7pm €

Il Cantuccio di San Lorenzo: Cherished cantucci (Tuscan biscuits) come in many freshly made variations at this Via Faenza bakery. 9am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6.30pm Sun €

Libri Liberi: Bookstore, cafe, theatre and cultural space with a rich program of events, plus a reader-friendly garden. 10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 3-8pm Sun €

Caffè del Verone: Located on the 5th floor of Ospedale degli Innocenti, this is an ideal espresso stop after a museum visit. 10am-9.30pm €€

Where the Florentine Elite Lived

Inside the baroque residence of the Martelli dynasty

Steps away from the Duomo and the Museo delle Cappelle Medicee, Casa Martelli (bargellomusei.it; free) is the former residence of the Medici-allied Martelli family and one of the few Florentine homes to have been continuously inhabited by the same dynasty from the Renaissance to the contemporary era. This Via Zanetti palace was acquired by the wealthy Martellis in the 1520s and only in 1986, after the death of the last heir Francesca Martelli, was the building donated to the Church and later the state. Seemingly frozen in time, the baroque halls offer a glimpse into the lifestyle of the local nobility and their over-the-top decor choices including the grand golden griffin used as the family emblem sculpted by Donatello (the original is kept at the Museo del Bargello). The rich picture gallery includes works by Salvator Rosa, Piero di Cosimo, Luca Giordano and Brueghel the Younger, but the most impressive area of the house is found on the ground floor where nature-inspired trompe l’oeil paintings cover the dimly lit Giardino d’Inverno and the Sala da Bagno halls, making you feel like you’re stepping into a blossoming garden. Casa Martelli is free to visit – guided hourly tours (Italian only) run on Tuesday afternoon between 1.30pm and 6.30pm and Saturday morning between 9am and 1.30pm. Get there a bit earlier to put your name on the list.

Palazzo Medici Riccardi | Jerome LABOUYRIE/shutterstock ©

CRAFT & VINTAGE STORES

Bottega Pendolare: Run by enthusiastic local artist Viola, this ceramics studio is for those looking for one-of-a-kind vases, mugs and pots.

Street Doing: Carefully selected vintage pieces organised by epoch fill up Street Doing, a destination for pre-loved branded clothes, shoes and accessories.

Melrose Vintage: A vast and well-organised selection of vintage pieces mostly from US brands. Don’t expect flea market prices. There are two locations in Florence: Via de’ Ginori and Largo Fratelli Alinari.

Il Papiro: Il Papiro is all about old-school stationery – hand-decorated notebooks, wax seals, unique postcards and all the paper-related goods you can imagine.

EATING IN SAN LORENZO & SAN MARCO: BAKERIES & STREET FOOD

Pugi: A locally beloved bakery for takeaway pizza slices and delicious plain or stuffed schiacciata. 7.45am-7.15pm Mon-Sat €

Forno Bruschi: The cantucci, croissants and sandwiches here have gained legendary status. 6.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat €

Da Nerbone: Head for Nerbone’s stall inside the central market and refuel with a lampredotto or porchetta sandwich. 8.30am-3pm Mon-Sat €

Fermentino: Recently opened Fermentino serves fresh schiacciata with local ingredients. 11am-8pm Sun-Thu, 10am-8pm Fri & Sat €€

Atomic Falafel: Spice up your culinary adventures with these sandwiches brimming with vegetables and freshly made falafel. 11am-9pm Tue-Sun €

La Boutique del Sud: Excellent Sicilian street food in Piazza San Marco. Choose between fresh arancini or cannoli. 11am-10pm Tue-Sun €

Caffè Rainer: Apparently this is Florence’s smallest bakery. Stop by for a French-inspired eclair or a slice of cake. 8am-6pm Tue-Sat, to 3pm Sun €€

Veg & Veg: Inside Mercato Centrale, this is the go-to place for vegan burgers and salads. Eat in the food hall or take away. 10am-11pm €€

Monochrome Frescoes

Andrea del Sarto’s Chiostro dello Scalzo

Housed inside the former headquarters of the Compagnia dei Disciplinati di San Giovanni Battista, a religious congregation founded in the 14th century, is the cloister known as the Chiostro dello Scalzo. Here, Renaissance artist Andrea del Sarto completed one of the most impressive cycles of monochrome painting between 1509 and 1526. The artwork, covering most of the cloister’s walls, tells the story of John the Baptist, Florence’s patron saint, through 10 scenes starting from his birth to his holy endeavors as an adult.

Baroque Opulence

Discover Mannerist pioneers at Santissima Annunziata

Founded in 1250 by the Servite order, the Marian Basilica della Santissima Annunziata was reconstructed in the 15th century and further enhanced in the 17th century. Enter through the arched facade by Michelozzo, the Medici’s court architect, to admire the rich Mannerist paintings in its antechamber, including works by Rosso Fiorentino, Pontormo and Andrea del Sarto. Continue to the baroque interior to see the 19 silver votive lamps donated by the city’s aristocracy hanging around the Cappella della Santissima Annunziata (left of the main nave), followed by frescoes by Andrea del Castagno and Perugino in the chapels.

Basilica della Santissima Annunziata | nightcap/shutterstock ©

THE BEES OF FERDINANDO I

Head to the Piazza Santissima Annunziata to find an equestrian statue of Duke Ferdinando I de’ Medici standing right in the middle of the square. Walk behind the monument to see the swarm of bees embossed on its pedestal. According to a local legend, these bees – a symbol of power in 16th-century Florence – are impossible to count from a distance. Nevertheless, it’s worth taking a few steps away from the statues to give in to the challenge, because it’s said that those who succeed will be rewarded with a stroke of luck.

GELATO IN SAN LORENZO & SAN MARCO

My Sugar: Award-winning artisanal gelato made from fresh, organic ingredients in Via dei Ginori. Both classic and experimental flavours. 12.30-10pm Wed-Mon €

La Gelatiera: The flavours change often in this gelateria near San Lorenzo’s leather market, so it’s worth coming back again and again. noon-9.30pm Wed-Sun €

Gelatarium: Make your own gelato at one of the largest gelaterie in the city centre. 8am-6.30pm Mon & Wed, 10am-7pm Thu-Sat, 1-7pm Sun €

Antica Gelateria Fiorentina: A safe choice when it comes to artisanal gelato in a very touristic area of the city – so safe that you can try before you buy. 12.30-9.30pm €

A Medieval Charity in a Brunelleschi Building

Art blends with history at Museo degli Innocenti

The construction of one of Europe’s first orphanages, the former Ospedale degli Innocenti (Hospital of the Innocents), was commissioned to architecture eminence Filippo Brunelleschi in the early 15th century, by members of the Arte della Seta, Florence’s powerful silk-weavers guild. The structure now houses the Museo degli Innocenti (museodeglinnocenti.it; €9), which offers three intersecting exhibitions – the historical section focuses on the events that have defined the hospital, the architectural tours highlight details of Brunelleschi’s vision and the art gallery showcases works by Sandro Botticelli, Domenico Ghirlandaio and Andrea della Robbia, among others. The building also houses the Istituto degli Innocenti, an organisation dedicated to supporting children in family foster care and assisting mothers in need.

Medici in Context

More Medici history in Brunelleschi’s Rotonda

The most recent addition to Florence’s Medici-related landmarks is the circular Museo de’ Medici (museodemedici.org; €10) inaugurated in late 2023 inside the Rotonda del Brunelleschi, a long-neglected former church nicknamed il castellaccio (the ugly castle) designed by Filippo Brunelleschi in 1434. As you enter the rotunda, a smartphone-accessible audio guide takes you through the different stages of the Medici’s history, with sculptures, prints and Renaissance-era costumes on display. While the Museo de’ Medici lacks the awe-inspiring exhibits of Florence’s big museums, displays such as the miniature model of the Battle of Anghiari (1440), the holographic reconstruction of the lost Ducal crown and the reproduction of the skull of Gian Gastone de’ Medici, Tuscany’s last Grand Duke, offer history buffs a chance to delve deeper into Florence’s past.

GARDENS & PARKS NORTH OF SAN MARCO

The greenery that is missing from the centre of Florence can be found north of San Marco.

Walk uphill to find the Giardino dell’ Orticultura, founded in 1859 as a space for the cultivation of rare and exotic flora. One of the city’s largest flower markets is held here in April.

From the Giardino dell’Orticultura climb up to the artsy Orti del Parnaso, where a huge, colourful sculpture of a snake (or is it a dragon?) crawls down a staircase that leads to one of the least photographed yet most satisfying views of the city.

Further up the road are the lush, cypress-dotted gardens surrounding Villa Fabbricotti, a 1894 residence whose prestigious guests have included Queen Victoria and Elisa Bonaparte.

Museum Rivalry

Two Leonardo da Vinci Museums within 50 metres

Two private museums dedicated to the inventions of Renaissance scientist and artist Leonardo da Vinci operate within 50m from one another, with confusing signs trying to lead visitors to either entrance. The Leonardo da Vinci Interactive Museum (leonardointeractivemuseum.com; tickets purchased online adult/child €7.90/6.90), in Via de’ Servi, features 50 machines built following da Vinci’s drawings that can be tested first-hand. The Museo Leonardo da Vinci (museoleonardodavincifirenze.com; adult/child €10/8), in Via del Castellaccio, is a showcase of wooden machines produced by the artisans of the Niccolai family based on Leonardo’s designs.

The Art of the Florentine Mosaic

Lean about Florence’s commesso heritage

Set up in the 16th century by Ferdinando I de’ Medici as a centre for the manufacture of furniture made in semi-precious stones and later expanded by the Lorraine dynasty, the Opificio delle Pietre Dure (opificiodellepietredure.cultura.gov.it; €6, free with Uffizi ticket) highlights a lesser-known part of Florence’s art history – that of the commesso, or Florentine mosaic. Unlike typical mosaics, these works of art are made by juxtaposing fragments of stones of different size and colour to form unique compositions. The Opificio delle Pietre Dure traces the evolution of the technique – especially impressive is the hall dedicated to ‘stone flowers’, still-life scenes made to decorate furniture popular in the 16th century, and the section highlights work produced during the final decades of the Medici’s rule, when the baroque fashion allowed for colourful mosaics to flourish.

Women’s Monastery in the Heart of the City

Admire Andrea del Castagno’s Last Supper

Founded in 1339, the Benedictine Monastery dedicated to St Apollonia used to function as the largest women’s monastery in Florence. The freely accessible Cenacolo di Sant’Apollonia hosts an impressive piece of Renaissance art, the Ultima Cena (Last Supper), painted on one of the walls by Andrea del Castagno in 1447. The detailed fresco stretches for nearly 10m across the room, surrounded by fading biblical scenes that adorn the rest of this fascinating monastery.

FLORENTINE MOSAICS TODAY

Few artists continue to produce works of art using the centuries-old commesso technique. Step into these timeless workshops to see them at work.

Scarpelli Mosaici: The Scarpelli family has been producing fine mosaics in this workshop for over half a century. Browse the collection or order a custom piece.

La Nuova Musiva: Artist Lituana di Sabatino creates contemporary floral mosaics following the ancient commesso technique in her studio in Via Ginori.

Pitti Mosaici: From their prime location in Piazza Pitti, the De Filippis family has been producing precious stone mosaics for over 40 years. Step into the showroom or book a tour of the workshop.

Arte Decorativa di Simone Fiordelisi: Steps away from Ponte Vecchio, artisan Simone Fiordelisi creates wonderful tables and unique pieces of furniture enriched by marble and colourful stones.

DRINKING IN SAN LORENZO & SAN MARCO: HISTORIC ENOTECHE

Fratelli Zanobini: Stop by this locally loved wine shop for a tasting or a glass and chat with the regulars. 9am-2pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat

Vino Divino: Hidden on a San Lorenzo backstreet, Vin Divino picks up entire barrels of young wine from the Chianti area and fills up bottles on request. 5-10pm Mon-Sat

Casa del Vino: Shaded by the stalls of Via dell’Ariento are hundreds of bottles standing on the wooden shelves of this old-school enoteca. 10am-3.30pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat

Antiche Dogane: Enjoy a light meal accompanied by a selected Tuscan wine from this enoteca by the Galleria dell’Accademia. 10am-8.30pm Mon, to 9.30pm Tue-Sun

Monumental Tombstones

See marble sculpture crafted in memory of literary figures

Despite its name, the Cimitero degli Inglesi (Cemetery of the English) has never been exclusive to the British residents of Florence. Founded as a Protestant burial site in the early 19th century to house the remains of citizens who were neither Catholic nor Jewish, the site contains the monumental tombstones of people from 16 nationalities, including Beatrice and Edward Claude Shakespeare, the last descendants of William Shakespeare, and the poet Elizabeth Barrett Browning. Julia Bolton Holloway, a retired medieval studies professor and author turned nun, takes care of the cemetery today – the cemetery is free to access, just ring the bell to have the gate opened.

Visit an Age-Old Botanical Garden

Walk among exotic and medicinal plants

Florence’s botanical garden, better known as Giardino dei Semplici (sma.unifi.it/vp-244-orto-botanico.html; adult/child €6/3), is one of Europe’s oldest to be continuously functioning since its inception. Founded by Cosimo I in 1545 and managed by Florence’s university, this historic garden covers over 2 hectares, including cool and warm greenhouses that sustain hundreds of plant species year-round.

Cimitero degli Inglesi | Andrea Izzotti/shutterstock ©

GARDENING IN THE CITY

Hidden steps away from the bustling streets of San Lorenzo, Orti Dipinti, a community-run urban garden, brings a touch of green to the historic neighborhood. Running for over a decade, this green space encourages residents and visitors to reconnect with nature through educational workshops and events run by volunteers.

Orti Dipinti is a unique initiative that contrasts with the surrounding open-air museum that is the Renaissance city, aimed at sharing gardening knowledge in an urban environment and bringing people together through sustainability-related projects. Visitors are welcome to take a look around during seasonal opening hours (see ortidipinti.it) and it is possible to volunteer in the garden Monday to Friday morning.

DRINKING IN SAN LORENZO & SAN MARCO: PUBS

PanicAle: Craft beers take centre stage at PanicAle, where the tables spill out under the loggia facing the Mercato Centrale. 6pm-1am

Alibi: The punk music spilling from the speakers will keep you motivated to taste all of the 26 craft beers available on tap. 4pm-1am Mon-Thu, noon-2am Fri & Sat, noon-1am Sun

Finnegan’s: A proper Irish pub in Via San Gallo serving Guinness pints and whiskeys in a friendly atmosphere. 4pm-12.30am Mon-Fri, 1pm-1am Sat & Sun

Braumeister Beer & Kitchen: A bit out of the way but worth the trip. This big craft-beer pub has a great selection of beers and comfort food. 6pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat

Tuscan Elephants

Meet the big mammals that once lived in the region

One of the lesser-visited museums in the city sheds light on the ancient origins of the region. In Florence University’s Museo di Geologia e Paleontologia (sma.unifi.it/vp-242-paleontologia.html; adult/child €6/3) you’ll learn that giant hyenas populated Tuscany 1.8 million years ago, together with hippos and bears. Even larger animals existed previously, as shown by the collection of three-million-year-old elephant skeletons, including those of proboscidean Pietro standing 4m tall and almost intact in the centre of the hall. Before you leave, check out the hall dedicated to the remains of the whale found in 2007 in the Pisa region, an area that was below water until three million years ago.

Stibbert’s Treasures

A dive into a fascinating collection of arms and armoury

Anglo-Italian collector and entrepreneur Frederick Stibbert (1838–1906) dedicated the latter part of his life to amassing artefacts from different corners of the world that would put any collector to shame. Removed from typical art trails, the Museo Stibbert (museostibbert.it; adult/child €10/7), housed inside the silent halls of yellow Villa di Montughi north of San Marco, features over 50,000 objects including the largest body of ancient Japanese weaponry outside of Japan (with katana swords once belonging to the last group of samurai) and hundreds of 16th- and 17th-century armour suits set in marching position in the museum’s high-ceilinged halls. After visiting the museum, take a stroll through the villa’s lush English-style gardens, where Stibbert indulged in his taste for the esoteric by building an Egyptian temple overlooking the pond.

Museo Stibbert | stefano cellai/shutterstock ©

BLUB’S UNDERWATER CHARACTERS

As you explore the city, keep an eye out for a modern twist on Renaissance art decorating many buildings in Florence’s historic centre. Local street artist Blub has spent over a decade adorning the city’s walls with portraits of famous figures like Dante and Michelangelo in his unique ‘watered-down’ style. Instead of classical frescoes, his characters are depicted underwater, wearing diving masks.

Originally created to commemorate the devastating 1966 flood that hit Florence, these swimming figures have become playful additions to the urban landscape, steadily multiplying over the years and reaching prestigious art galleries in Italy and abroad.

DRINKING IN SAN LORENZO & SAN MARCO: COCKTAILS & APERITIVO

Vineria Sonora: With two venues on opposite sides of Via degli Alfani, Vineria Sonora is all about natural wines sourced from small labels around Italy. 5pm-1am Tue-Sun

Vineria degli Aldobrandini: Sit on one of the little chairs outside to enjoy a spritz with a view of the Cappelle Medicee in the heart of bustling San Lorenzo. 7am-midnight

Sabor Cubano: When the leather stalls leave Via Sant’Antonino for the day, the tables of this Cuban bar fill up with mojitos. Live music every Tuesday. 7pm-2am

Un Caffè: A student favourite. Despite the name, most people will stop here in the late afternoon for a spritz or a glass of wine. 9.30am-1am Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat

Santa Croce & Sant’Ambrogio

MONUMENTAL BASILICA | NIGHTLIFE | FOOD MARKET

Expanding around Arnolfo di Cambio’s majestic basilica, the neighbourhood of Santa Croce changes drastically from day to night. Visit before dinner to immerse yourself in the artistic legacy of the Renaissance’s pioneers then return after dark to find thirsty international students hopping from karaoke bar to sticky pub fuelled by undisclosed shots.

Don’t judge the book by its cover though – the labyrinthine streets that branch out from the Piazza Santa Croce area have something for everyone. The area is home to the legendary calcio storico tournament that sees four historical districts compete in Piazza Santa Croce in a fierce game blending elements of rugby, wrestling and soccer. This dedication to keeping local traditions alive extends to the many street-food joints, fine-dining restaurants and carefully restored historic architecture you can find here.

Up-and-coming Sant’Ambrogio has long been left off short-term visitors’ radars, but the area locked between the grandiose Synagogue, Piazza Beccaria and Santa Croce deserves a place on the map, if only for the opportunity to interact with the many Florentines who spend long, wine-soaked summer evenings in the bar-dotted piazzas of this yet-to-be-upscaled neighbourhood.

HIGHLIGHTS

1Basilica di Santa Croce

2Museo del Bargello

SIGHTS

3Casa Buonarroti

4Museo Horne

5Synagogue & Jewish Museum of Florence

SLEEPING

6Casa dei Tintori B&B

7Numeroventi

EATING

8Cibrèo Trattoria

9Club Culinario Toscano

10Cucina Torcicoda

11Enoteca Pinchiorri

12Gelateria dei Neri

13La Ghiotta

14La Giostra

15Le Oblate Café

16Le Vespe Café

17Lo Schiacciavino

18L’Ortone

19Melloo

20Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio

21Procopio

22Salsamenteria de’ Ciompi

23Schiacciamatta

24Teatro del Sale

25Trattoria Accadì

26Tripperia Pollini

DRINKING

27Bitter Bar

28Coffee Mantra

29Drogheria

30Eby’s

31Le Murate

32Locale

33Melaleuca

34Rex

SHOPPING

35Apelle Lab

36Scuola del Cuoio

GETTING AROUND

Piazza Santa Croce is the epicentre of the neighbourhood. From this huge square you can reach both Piazza della Signoria and Sant’Ambrogio’s market in less than 10 minutes. At night, you’ll find most of the international bars scattered around Via dei Benci, while locals tend to gather around Borgo La Croce. Getting around is easy – the area is best explored on foot and if you need a taxi they can be found day and night on the western edge of Piazza Santa Croce.

TOP TIP

A number of open-air summer bars, clubs and restaurants open along the Arno starting from June – to find them walk east from Santa Croce past Ponte San Niccolò. In December, Piazza Santa Croce hosts Florence’s Christmas market.

Renaissance Sculpture

Michelangelo, Donatello and other masters of the chisel

The world’s richest collection of Renaissance sculpture is housed in an austere palace standing on Via del Proconsolo since 1255, when it was first erected as a court and then converted into a prison. The Sala di Michelangelo, on the 1st floor of Museo del Bargello (bargellomusei.it; adult/child €10/2), collects early works of the sculptor of David, including Bacchus (1497) considered the first complete sculpture by the master, executed when he was only 22. Upstairs find the ‘other’ David – Donatello’s bronze sculpture of the biblical hero, surrounded by works by Andrea del Verrocchio, Benvenuto Cellini and Mino da Fiesole. Don’t miss the Cappella della Madonna with frescoes by artists of Giotto’s workshop – this chapel was built in 1280 to host death row prisoners during their last night of prayer before their trip to the gallows.

Where Italian Greats Rest

Visit the monumental tombs of the Basilica di Santa Croce

Interior and exterior stand in sharp contrast in the Franciscan Basilica di Santa Croce (santacroceopera.it; €8), one of the city’s most important religious buildings designed by Arnolfo di Cambio at the end of the 13th century. By looking up at the neo-Gothic facade dominating the large, empty piazza that Ralph Waldo Emerson deemed ‘built by and for the human race as a whole’, you’ll notice a Star of David positioned in the tympanum above the oculus – a mark left behind by the Jewish architect Niccolò Matas, who completed the bichromatic marble exterior in 1863, half a millennium after the church was built.

The austere interior houses a collection of notable tombs – Michelangelo, Galileo, Ghiberti and Machiavelli are all buried here, next to the empty tomb of Dante, whose remains were never returned from Ravenna where he died in 1321. But prominent dead bodies aren’t the sole reason for visiting the Basilica. In total, nearly 4000 works of art, including compositions by Giotto, Brunelleschi, Donatello and Andrea della Robbia, adorn the 16 family chapels housed within the church. Agnolo Gaddi’s fresco Leggenda della Croce (1380–90), in the Cappella Maggiore behind the altar, is one of the artistic highlights of the basilica, together with Bronzino’s monumental Discesa di Cristo al Limbo (1552), brought back to its original grandeur after being damaged by the 1966 flood. After visiting the basilica, exit through the cloister – where Baccio Bandinelli’s sculpture Dio Padre (1556) stands – to enter the refectory. Here you’ll find the 11.7m-tall fresco Albero della Vita e Ultima Cena by Taddeo Gaddi (1345–50), Giorgio Vasari’s restored Ultima Cena (1546–47), Donatello’s San Ludovico di Tolosa (1418–25) and fragments of Andrea Orcagna’s Inferno (1345).

BUILT ON A ROMAN AMPHITHEATRE

As you stroll through the picturesque Piazza de’ Peruzzi near Piazza Santa Croce, your eyes will likely catch the unusually rounded facade of the buildings on the northern side of the square, forming a semicircle. This urban oddity is one of the most evident testimonies of Florence’s Roman roots – the palaces standing here were built on the foundation of an ancient Roman amphitheatre once able to host up to 20,000 people. Built around the 2nd century CE and measuring 120m in diameter, the structure was never fully excavated and many of its archaeological treasures are likely still buried below the buildings in Piazza de’ Peruzzi and surroundings.

EATING IN SANTA CROCE & SANT’AMBROGIO: TRADITIONAL DINING

Cibrèo: This iconic restaurant is split between a trattoria and a ristorante, which offer two different price points. 7-10.30pm Mon-Thu, 12.30-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm Fri-Sun €€

La Ghiotta: Simple decor, generous portions, friendly staff – this homely trattoria in the heart of Sant’Ambrogio is worth a try. 11.30am-2.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm Tue-Sun €€

Club Culinario Toscano: In this ‘culinary club’ you get to try different specialities from Tuscany’s subregions, from pici all’aglione to testaroli. noon-midnight €€

Trattoria Accadì: An old-school trattoria run by Japanese chef Toshifumi Mitsubiki, a champion of Italian cuisine. 7-10.30pm Mon, noon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm Tue-Sat €€

Herbert’s Horne Treasure Trove

See the home of a Botticelli-obsessed British art collector

English art historian Herbert P Horne (1864–1916) first came to Florence in 1889 to study Botticelli, not knowing he would fall in love with the city’s heritage and end up selling everything he owned to start collecting art and antiques. Horne’s treasures, donated to the Italian state after his death, are exhibited in the Via dei Benci Renaissance palace that in the 16th century belonged to the Corsi, a Florentine family of textile merchants. The Museo Horne (museohorne.it; €7) has maintained the atmosphere of a home – there are no explanatory signs, so a guided tour is recommended – and takes you through two floors furnished with rare sculptures and paintings. Horne’s favourite piece, a small clay sketch model made by Giambologna, sits on the central table in the first room surrounded by works by Benozzo Gozzoli, Masaccio and a portrait of St Stephan attributed to Giotto, the collection’s centrepiece. Horne’s dream of acquiring a Botticelli never materialised, but he got close – the collector purchased the section of a 1475 wooden chest believed to have been decorated by the creator of the Birth of Venus, only to find out it was in fact the work of Filippino Lippi.

FROM PRISON TO LITERARY CAFE

Today Le Murate (lemurate.it) is a space dedicated to the celebration of contemporary culture through reading, exhibitions, screenings and live music events, but the monumental complex hasn’t always been such a fun gathering spot for Florentines and visitors.

For over 150 years starting from 1832, Le Murate was a prison – famous figures such as anarchist philosopher Errico Malatesta, antifascist author Carlo Levi, and political activist Alcide de Gasperi, who would become Italy’s prime minister in 1946, have all been guests of the panopticon structure. After its closure in 1984, the area – which occupied 14,500 sq metres of the city’s surface – was left abandoned for years, until in 2001 a long renovation guided by starchitect Renzo Piano gave it new life.

SANTA CROCE & SANT’AMBROGIO: Snacks, Burgers & Brunch

Tripperia Pollini: One of Florence’s best-known lampredotto carts, where locals queue daily for a lunch sandwich – join them if you dare. 10am-4pm Mon-Sat €

Schiacciamatta: This sandwich shops serves stuffed schiacciata and wine to the crowds that gather in Borgo La Croce. Veg options available. noon-11.30pm €

Salsamenteria de’ Ciompi: Order a cartoccio of fried seafood to take away or sit down for a plate of handmade pasta. noon-10.30pm Sun-Thu, to 11.30pm Fri & Sat €

Lo Schiacciavino: Sit on one of the wooden chairs and enjoy a schiacciata sandwich with a glass of Chianti. 11am-5pm Mon, to midnight Tue-Sun €

Melaleuca: Stop for breakfast, brunch or lunch and fill up on pastries and coffee prepared with an Australian touch. 7.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat & Sun €€

Drogheria: For an alternative to pasta, pizza and steaks, try the massive burgers here – you won’t be disappointed. 10am-2am €€

Le Vespe Café: Friendly brunch spot in Via Ghibellina, ideal for a healthy break between sights. 10am-3pm €€

Melloo: Eating at Melloo feels like sitting in a record store – bite into a tall burger or order a pinsa romana by Sant’Ambrogio’s market. 6-11pm Tue, Wed & Sun, to 2am Thu-Sat €

Giorgio Vasari’s Home

Step into the artist testament of a Renaissance master

The Casa Vasari where legendary artist and architect Giorgio Vasari lived while in Florence is now part of a private residence that can be visited with one of the bimonthly guided tours organised by the Museo Horne (including one entrance to the museum €10; check the schedule at museohorne.it). Vasari covered the living room (Sala Grande) of the residence donated to him by Cosimo I with some of his last frescoes in 1574, leaving behind what is considered his artistic testament – allegorical figures representing sculpture, painting, architecture and writing (all disciplines Vasari excelled at), scenes from Roman myths and the portraits of 13 Florentine artists he considered the supreme representatives of the city’s heritage. Tours of this special yet little-known Borgo Santa Croce residence should be booked in advance by emailing Museo Horne at info@museohorne.it.

Michelangelo’s Early Art

Visit the apartment of the Buonarroti family

Michelangelo spent little time in this Via Ghibellina apartment purchased by his family in the early 16th century, but the often deserted halls of Casa Buonarroti (casabuonarroti.it; adult/child €8/5) offer an interesting glimpse into the early career of the Renaissance artist. Two bas-reliefs produced by Michelangelo in his teenage years – Madonna della Scala (1491) and Battaglia dei Centauri (1492) – are the centrepieces of the collection, together with hundreds of preparatory drawings exhibited under glass. Michelangelo Buonarroti the Younger (1568–1647), the artist’s grandnephew, added to the collection by commissioning the decorations of the gallery.

Ceiling frescoes, Casa Buonarroti | muratart/shutterstock ©

CALCIO STORICO FIORENTINO

In late spring, Piazza Santa Croce morphs into a sand arena to host the annual Calcio Storico Fiorentino tournament. Four teams representing Florence’s historic neighbourhoods compete in a series of brutal ‘historic football’ matches involving bare-knuckle boxing and wrestling-style tackles in front of 4000 spectators.

The violent sport is a reenactment of the legendary ‘game of the siege’ that happened in 1530, when Florentines continued to play their football tournament despite the threat of invasion by the army of Charles V. Today the tournament is one of the most awaited events of the year. The four teams fight for the winning title over three weekends in June. The final match takes place on St John’s Day (24 June).

COFFEE & GELATO IN SANTA CROCE & SANT’AMBROGIO

Le Oblate Café: The cafe of the Oblate public library offers one of the best views of Brunelleschi’s dome. 2-7pm Mon, 9am-7pm Tue, to 10.30pm Wed-Fri, 10am-10.30pm Sat €

Coffee Mantra: Sant’Ambrogio’s speciality coffee shop serves caffeine in every imaginable way with beans from around the globe. 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat €

Procopio: Artisanal gelateria serving delicious seasonal flavours in Via Pietrapiana, right in front of the Loggia del Pesce. noon-8pm Tue-Sun €

Gelateria dei Neri: This popular Via dei Neri gelateria serves dozens of classic and experimental flavour combinations. 10.30am-midnight Wed-Mon €

Florence’s Oldest Market

Eat in the heart of Sant’Ambrogio

The oldest still functioning market in the city has been operating since 1873, catering to Sant’Ambrogio’s residents from its covered hall in Piazza Ghiberti. Today the exterior of the Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio is mostly dedicated to fruit and vegetables, while inside you’ll find coffeeshops, bakeries, butchers and trattorias where you can sit down for a meal. The Sant’Ambrogio market is open 7am to 2pm every day apart from Sunday.

ALL’ANTICO VINAIO: WORTH THE WAIT?

As you walk towards Santa Croce from Piazza Signoria along Via dei Neri, you’ll notice the long queue stretching from the entrance of Florence’s most famous sandwich shop.

Social media sensation All’Antico Vinaio has grown from a hole-in-the-wall eatery to a million-dollar venture with dozens of stores around the world. Unless you’ve come here to try their schiacciata, you may be wondering whether this simple sandwich is worth the wait. Ask any Florentine and you’ll hear the same answer: this sandwich is as good as in most other places. Our tip: you’re probably better off skipping the line and opting for one of the dozen or so other shops selling the exact same food within a 1km radius.

DRINKING IN SAN LORENZO & SANT’AMBROGIO: COCKTAIL BARS

Eby’s: A Florentine icon, Eby’s has been serving creative shots from this hole in the wall for decades. 11am-3am Tue & Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat

Rex: Behind thick black curtains is a fun yet sophisticated cocktail bar attracting a mixed crowd until late. 6.30pm-2am

Bitter Bar: Speakeasy vibes and well-researched flavour combos make this lounge in Via di Mezzo a great place for a nightcap. 8pm-2am Mon-Sat

Locale: Listed among the World’s 50 Best Bars, Locale has conquered the Florentine cocktail scene since its opening in 2015. 7.30pm-2am

Theatrical Dinners

Enjoy a Tuscan buffet and a concert at Teatro del Sale

Directed by actor Maria Cassi, this offshoot of the famous Cibreo restaurant blends traditional Tuscan food with musical shows under the arches of Il Teatro del Sale (teatrodelsale.com), in Via dei Macci. Offering over 200 shows per year, from jazz concerts to plays, you are guaranteed to discover new artists at every visit. To join one of the buffet dinners and shows you need to be a member of the Teatro del Sale Association – sign up for €15 during your first visit.

Florence’s Great Synagogue

The Jewish community’s Moorish temple

The turquoise copper dome of Florence’s synagogue (jewishflorence.it; €6.50) rises from the terracotta rooftops in the Sant’Ambrogio neighbourhood. Designed by Marco Treves between 1874 and 1882, following Italy’s unification and the razing of the ghetto that had existed since the 16th century in Piazza della Repubblica, Florence’s synagogue is a fantastic example of Moorish architecture standing in contrast with its Renaissance surroundings. Inside, polychrome stained-glass windows, marble-enriched floors and intricate chandeliers adorn a dimly lit space. Walk to the end of the nave to inspect the mosaic-clad Aron framed in theatrical canopy, then climb to the upper floors to visit the museum, tracing the history of the Jewish community in Florence. In the garden, an epigraph commemorates the Florentine Jews deported to Nazi concentration camps.

Synagogue of Florence | Mitzo/shutterstock ©

SANTA CROCE’S LEATHER TRADITION

Florence has been a centre for leather production since the Middle Ages, and near Piazza Santa Croce you’ll find the long-standing Scuola del Cuoio (Leather School), where artisans continue the craft. Visitors can take tours to see the artisans at work and purchase hand-crafted goods, while aspiring designers can take 10- or 20-week courses to learn how to make bags and accessories by hand.

Nearby, Apelle Lab, run by Scuola del Cuoio alumni Ilaria and Guglielmo, functions as both a coworking space for independent leather artisans and a studio that produces items from upcycled materials sourced from production leftovers. Choose from the distinctive pieces on display or participate in a three-hour hands-on session to craft your own belt.

EATING IN SANTA CROCE & SANT’AMBROGIO: Fine Dining

L’Ortone: A beautifully designed space serving traditional dishes with a twist. 12.15-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat €€

La Giostra: A favourite among celebrities who come here for the rustic-chic decor, excellent food and huge wine list. 12.30-2.30pm & 7pm-1am Mon-Fri, 7pm-1am Sat & Sun €€€

Cucina Torcicoda: Dine surrounded by art at this elegant restaurant serving gourmet pizzas and refined mains. 7-10.30pm, closed Mon €€

Enoteca Pinchiorri: One of Italy’s most prestigious restaurants, three-Michelin-starred Enoteca Pinchiorri serves works of art. 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat €€€

San Niccolò, Boboli & Piazza Pitti

LUSH GARDENS | GREAT VIEWS | RENAISSANCE RESIDENCE

It’s no coincidence that the area extending behind Palazzo Pitti, the former residence of the Medici, is so different from the rest of the inner city. Until the mid-19th century, much of Florence still preserved its medieval architecture, with high stone walls still separating the city from its surroundings. Following the unification of Italy in 1861 and the naming of Florence as the capital of the newly established Kingdom in 1865, local authorities decided to propel the city into modernity with a major redevelopment project assigned to architect Giuseppe Poggi. Poggi took inspiration from other major European cities to create a network of large avenues, monumental squares and gardens, promising that these features would make Florence great again. The cherry on top of the cake was Piazzale Michelangelo, a vast terrace overlooking Brunelleschi’s Duomo built in one of the highest locations in the city, offering a perfectly framed view of the city in all its glory.

HIGHLIGHTS

1Giardino di Boboli

2Museo di Storia Naturale La Specola

3Palazzo Pitti

SIGHTS

4Abbazia di San Miniato al Monte

5Chiesa di San Giorgio alla Costa

6Chiesa di Santa Felicita

7Cimitero delle Porte Sante

8Forte di Belvedere

9Giardino delle Rose

10House of Galileo Galilei

11Museo Bardini

12Piazzale Michelangelo

13Porta San Niccolò

14Rampe del Poggi

15Villa e Giardino Bardini

SLEEPING

16FuordArno

17Hotel La Scaletta

18Hotel Silla

19Serristori Palace

EATING

20Beppa Fioraia

21De’ Bardi

22Formaggioteca Terroir

23Forno San Niccolò

24Golden View

25La Leggenda dei Frati

26Olivia

27Osteria Antica Mescita

28Rifrullo

29Saporium

30Strega Nocciola

31Trattoria Bordino

DRINKING

32Enoteca Fuori Porta

33Enoteca Pitti Gola e Cantina

34Kaffeehaus

35Lodge Club

GETTING AROUND

Piazza Pitti is easily reached on foot by crossing the Ponte Vecchio. To walk up to Piazzale Michelangelo and San Miniato al Monte, head to San Niccolò then climb up via the Rampe del Poggi in approximately 15 minutes. Alternatively, take charming Costa San Giorgio and walk up through the charming back streets of the neighbourhood. Too hot to walk? Take bus 12 from Lungarno Soderini or bus 13 from Santa Maria Novella to be dropped off by the Piazzale.

TOP TIP

The best time to visit this part of the city is in spring, when the flowers of Villa Bardini, Giardino delle Rose and Giardino dell’Iris are in full bloom, providing a beautiful frame for the city’s terracotta rooftops.

Monumental Renaissance Gardens

Indulge in a long walk through Boboli’s landscape

Considered the prime example of Renaissance landscape architecture and a template for European court gardens, the Giardino di Boboli (uffizi.it/giardino-boboli; €10) is far more than a patch of green in the heart of the Oltrarno. Carefully organised geometric patterns form behind Palazzo Pitti, climbing up the Boboli hill for 45 hectares. Besides the spectacular city views, the garden offers a window into the ideas and habits of 16th-century aristocrats who viewed nature as something to be controlled and shaped into a work of art by humans. Follow the maps scattered around the garden to reach Bernardo Buontalenti’s grotto, then climb up to the renovated 18th-century Kaffeehaus commissioned by Grand Duke Peter Leopold of Lorraine. Further up is the neoclassical Palazzina del Cavaliere housing the Museo delle Porcellane and overlooking the Vasca del Nettuno. Walk down the cypress-lined avenue to the Vasca dell’Isola, the pond containing a monumental island, then visit the limonaia (lemon house) before returning to the amphitheatre via the Pegasus sculpture.

TOP EXPERIENCE
Palazzo Pitti

No Oltrarno palace can compete with Palazzo Pitti – the residence of the Medici since 1549, when Duchess Eleonora di Toledo acquired the building previously owned by banker Luca Pitti. The initial project, sketched in 1440 by Brunelleschi, was taken over in the mid-16th century by court architect Bartolomeo Ammannati who transformed the structure into the stately palace dominating the sloping Piazza Pitti we know today. Enter to find royal apartments and an overwhelming collection of artworks once the property of the ruling dynasty.

Palazzo Pitti and Giardino di Boboli | Kirill Neiezhmakov/shutterstock ©

DON’T MISS

Sala di Ulisse

Sala dell’Iliade

Sala di Apollo

Galleria d’Arte Moderna

Museo della Moda e del Costume

PRACTICALITIES

Scan this QR code to book tickets in advance via the Palazzo Pitti’s official website.

Galleria Palatina & Imperial and Royal Apartments

After passing the security checks at the entrance, climb to Palazzo Pitti’s 1st floor to enter the Galleria Palatina. Following the sculpture gallery established by the Lorraine government, you’ll enter the halls once belonging to the Duchess’ apartment, Sala dei Castagnoli and Sala della Musica. Connecting to the Duke’s apartment is the red Sala dei Poccetti, which leads to the Sala di Prometeo, where the Grand Duchy’s Council used to meet, housing Filippo Lippi’s round Madonna col Bambino (1452–53). Look up to see the four seasons represented in the ceiling’s corners, then enter Sala di Ulisse to find paintings by Raffaello, Vasari and Cigoli. Past the marble bathroom built for Napoleon, the Greek myth theme continues. Caravaggio’s Amore Dormiente (1608–09) awaits in the Sala dell’Educazione di Giove. Step into the beautiful Sala dell’Iliade – surrounding Lorenzo Bartolini’s statue La Carità (1824) are large-scale paintings by Andrea del Sarto and Fra Bartolomeo, observed from above by Zeus, depicted on the ceiling as part of the cycle inspired by Homer’s Iliad. Continue to the Sala di Apollo to meet Bronzino’s Morgante, Cosimo I’s favourite dwarf painted naked from two perspectives. Conclude in the Sala delle Nicchie, one of the oldest sections of the palace, before exiting via the Sala Verde, where the Duke’s guards used to reside, housing Luca Giordano’s Allegoria della Pace tra Firenze e Fiesole (1682).

Galleria d’Arte Moderna

On the 2nd floor of Palazzo Pitti, find the galleries dedicated to art produced in the post-Medici era, between the 18th and 20th centuries. The halls where the grand dukes of the Lorraine dynasty resided now showcase paintings and sculptures belonging to the neoclassicist current, including works by Antonio Canova and Pietro Tenerani, followed by Romantic pieces and many important examples of the Macchiaioli movement, established in Tuscany in the late 19th century. Especially fascinating are the large-scale war scenes by Giuseppe Bezzoli and the melancholic depictions of Florence by Antonio Fontanesi.

RUSSIAN ICONS AT PALAZZO PITTI

Leave behind the Renaissance, Florence and Italian art altogether by entering Palazzo Pitti’s permanent exhibition of Russian icons, the largest of the kind in Western Europe, hosted in one of the ground-floor halls. These tiny religious panel paintings typical of the Orthodox tradition were mostly collected by the Lorraine dukes in the 18th century and are now on show around the Cappella Palatina, creating a stark contrast with the pompous decor of the upper floors.

Museo della Moda e del Costume

Entirely refurbished in 2023, Palazzo Pitti’s Museo della Moda e del Costume started as a showcase of the dresses worn by the city’s elite during the Renaissance and has expanded to pay tribute to the Italian fashion heritage, from Eleonora di Toledo’s 16th-century ceremonial dresses to the 20th-century designs by Elsa Schiaparelli, Gianni Versace and Miuccia Prada.

TOP TIPS

• A single adult ticket for Palazzo Pitti costs €16, but you can purchase a combined ticket that includes entry to the Boboli Gardens for €22.

• Get up early to save money: a discount is available for those who purchase Palazzo Pitti’s entrance ticket at the counter before 8.45am.

• Queues are to be expected at the entrance in high season, but the museum is so large that once you’re inside you won’t feel like you are competing to get close to the artwork.

• Consider approximately three hours to see every-thing and double that if you want to tour Boboli as well.

Tesoro dei Granduchi

Before leaving, return to the ground floor to visit the spectacular halls formerly functioning as the Medici’s summer apartments. The porcelains, ambers and vases that belonged to the dukes are exhibited here, but the true highlight is the frescoes adorning the halls. The largest of these rooms takes the name of the artist who envisioned the paintings covering the entirety of the walls and ceiling, Giovanni da San Giovanni, who decorated it in 1635 to celebrate the wedding of Ferdinando II and Vittoria della Rovere, allegorically depicting the couple on the ceiling in a dazzling trompe l’oeil. Don’t miss Bartolomeo Piggi’s hand-drawn genealogical tree of the Medici family and Lorenzo the Magnificent’s death mask in the Grotticino room.

Gardens with a View

Walk up Villa Bardini for a sublime view of the Duomo

Italian and English gardens merge in the green area surrounding Villa Bardini (villabardini.it; €10), the former residence of wealthy antique collector Stefano Bardini. The garden comes to life in spring – visit in April to see the violet wisteria hanging from the pergola form a colourful frame for one of the most enchanting vistas over the Duomo. Inside, the villa houses a permanent exhibition of works by painter Pietro Annigoni (1910–88), plus temporary contemporary photography shows.

Florence’s Monumental Terrace

Admire the city from above from Piazzale Michelangelo

Legend has it that 18 oxen were required to bring the bronze copy of the David to the centre of Piazzale Michelangelo in 1873. Since then, Florence’s most iconic sculpture hasn’t stopped gazing over the snake-like Arno slithering through the city. You’ll likely do the same, as the panoramic terrace built by architect Giuseppe Poggi when Florence was Italy’s capital offers one of the most privileged sunset views on the Florentine red rooftops. Dedicated to Florence’s leading Renaissance artist, the romantic square is easily reached in a 10-minute uphill hike from Porta San Niccolò. Walk up the monumental Rampe del Poggi staircase, where an artificial waterfall flows down through a series of grottos to San Niccolò’s fountain.

CLET’S STREET ART

As you walk through the streets of Florence you may notice that some of the traffic signs have a slightly odd design. For instance, the white band of the red ‘no trespassing’ sign could appear hugged by a loving policeman and one-way signs may become Cupid’s arrows piercing a heart. This is the works of Brittany-born street artist Clet, who moved to Florence in 2005 and has since devoted himself to adorning the city’s signs with stickers meant to make you think twice about the meaning of symbols often taken for granted. The artist’s works can be admired in his San Niccolò studio (instagram.com/cletstudio) in Via dell’Olmo 8r, where stickers, signs and T-shirts are available for purchase.

DRINKING & Fine Dining IN SAN NICCOLÒ, BOBOLI & PIAZZA PITTI

Rifrullo: In the middle of San Niccolò, Rifrullo is great for breakfast, aperitivo and dinner. 7.30am-1am Mon-Fri, 8am-1am Sat & Sun €€

Enoteca Fuori Porta: Right behind Porta San Miniato, this little enoteca invites for long wine breaks on the terrace. 12.30-3.30pm & 7-11.30pm Tue-Fri, noon-11.30pm Sat & Sun

La Loggetta di Villa Bardini: There could hardly be a better spot to admire the city with a coffee or a beer; ticket required to access. 10am-8pm Tue-Sun

Lodge Club: A fashionable crowd fills the Lodge on summer weekends, when the space turns into an open-air club. 7pm-2am

Saporium: Chef Ariel Hagen serves up outstanding meals using only hyperlocal ingredients. 12.30-2pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat €€€

La Leggenda dei Frati: Enjoy an incredible dinner at this Michelin-starred restaurant on the edge of the Giardino Bardini. 7.30-10pm Tue-Fri, 12.30-2pm & 7.30-10pm Sat & Sun €€€

De’ Bardi: This high-end restaurant and cocktail bar comes to life in a beautifully refurbished Renaissance building. 11am-midnight Tue-Sun €€€

Golden View: Stop by for a high-end meal accompanied by one of the best views over Ponte Vecchio. noon-3pm & 6.30-11pm Wed-Sun €€€

TOP EXPERIENCE
La Specola

Reopened in 2024 after five years of renovations, Museo di Storia Naturale La Specola brings the city’s scientific heritage back under the spotlight. Commissioned in 1775 by Grand Duke Peter Leopold of Lorraine, one of Europe’s oldest scientific museums houses thousands of taxidermied animals and a rare collection of anatomical waxes inspired by Renaissance art.

Anatomical waxwork, La Specola | Federico Magonio/shutterstock ©

TOP TIPS

• The anatomical waxes can only be visited with a guide. Guided tours cost €3 on top of the museum ticket (€10).

• Besides the mineralogy section, there’s also a new section dedicated to botanical waxes.

• On Sunday, an additional €3 give you access to the Astronomical Tower and Galileo’s Tribune.

PRACTICALITIES

Scan this QR code to book your tickets for the Museo di Storia Naturale La Specola.

The Zoology Halls

Of the four million taxidermied animals that belong to La Specola’s collection, around 5000 are exhibited in the 23 rooms that occupy the largest part of the historic Palazzo Bini-Torrigiani. From turtles to hippos, via kangaroos, tigers and zebras, the seemingly endless showcase of creatures represents a large section of life on Earth.

The Anatomical Waxes

The centrepieces of La Specola are the hyper-realistic anatomical waxes created by artists such as Clemente Susini and Gaetano Zumbo to allow the study of the human body. Of the 1400 unsettling exhibits of organs, muscles and nerves, you’ll find 26 full bodies including Susini’s Lo Spellato (Skinned) and the Venere Anatomica (Anatomical Venus), inspired by works of Michelangelo and Donatello.

Mineralogy

A fascinating addition to La Specola are the six dark rooms dedicated to hundreds of minerals collected over centuries by Florentine elite, including stones purchased by Lorenzo the Magnificent in the 15th century. In the 1600s, Duke Ferdinando I called Danish scientists Niels Stensen to the Medici’s court, institutionalising the study of minerals, which are now showcased under glass like colourful works of art.

OLTRARNO ON FOOT

Climb the hill above San Niccolò in search of monumental architecture and spectacular city views.

START Piazza Santa Felicita

END Porta San Niccolò

LENGTH 3.7km; 3 hours

Before starting the climb toward Piazzale Michelangelo, step into the 1 Chiesa di Santa Felicita to admire Pontormo’s 3m-tall Deposizione (1526–28). Walk through the square and onto Costa di San Giorgio. Following a peek at the Rococo interior of the little-known 2 Chiesa di San Giorgio alla Costa you’ll find yourself outside the 3 House of Galileo Galilei, marked by a sign commemorating the Renaissance scientist. Continue past Villa Bardini to reach the 4 Forte di Belvedere, designed in the 16th century as a defensive structure by Bernardo Buontalenti under the orders of Ferdinando I de’ Medici. Turn left on Via di Belvedere and walk under the city walls until you reach Porta San Miniato and the 5 Giardino delle Rose, where 12 sculptures by Belgian artist Jean-Michel Folon dot the botanical garden with 400 rose species. Just a few more steps and you’ll reach 6 Piazzale Michelangelo, one of the best viewpoints the city has to offer. Further up is the Romanesque 7 Abbazia di San Miniato al Monte – walk around it to visit the monumental 8 Cimitero delle Porte Sante, then retrace your steps to start descending back towards the Arno. This time, follow the 9 Rampe del Poggi until you get to a Porta San Niccolò, the 14th-century eastern gate to the city once surrounded by walls.

Hilltop Romanesque Architecture

Climb to the church overlooking the city

Founded in the early 11th century on the spot where Christian martyr Miniato is said to have been buried, the Abbazia di San Miniato al Monte sits on Florence’s highest point, overlooking the city from it’s privileged position. Clad with white Carrara marble and green Pisan marble, the church’s facade is one of the most prominent examples of Florentine Romanesque architecture – a style that would come to define the city’s urban landscape in the following centuries. The barely lit interior is home to the 1448 Cappella del Crocefisso, an intricately sculpted ciborium designed by the Medici’s court architect Michelozzo with the assistance of Agnolo Gaddi and Luca della Robbia.

CLIMBING PORTA SAN NICCOLò

Built in 1324, Porta San Niccolò was part of Florence’s defensive system. The walls connected to this city gate were demolished in the 19th century, during the era of urban redevelopment managed by architect Giuseppe Poggi. The demolition of the walls left Porta San Niccolò isolated and looking more like a tower than a gate. While it has long lost its original function, Porta San Niccolò opens seasonally for visitors. You can climb to the top between late June and the end of September and admire the spectacular views over the Arno and the historic centre with one of the guided tours led daily by Mus.e. Tickets cost €6; book online via musefirenze.it.

Stefano Bardini’s Palazzo

Discover thousands of precious artwork

The collection of artworks acquired by Florentine antiquarian Stefano Bardini (1826–1922) doesn’t receive the visitors it deserves. This Oltrarno museum houses a neglected showcase of over 3500 sculptures, artefacts, tapestries, armours, paintings and frames under the coffered ceiling of the Museo Bardini (€7) commissioned to architect Corinto Corinti. Walk inside to find Piero Tacca’s original ‘porcellino’ – the bronze boar whose popular copy sits in Piazza del Mercato Nuovo – next to Giambologna’s Diavolino (Little Devil, 1552) and not far from Donatello’s Madonna dei Cordai (1433–35). Important sculptures such as Arnolfo di Cambio’s funerary plaque made for Bishop Jacopo Castelbuono (1286) and Tino di Camaino’s La Carità (1320) take you back to the Middle Ages, while the room containing Guercino’s globe-lifting Atlas (1646) is lined with drawings by Venetian artist Gian Battista Tiepolo (1696–1770).

EATING IN SAN NICCOLÒ, BOBOLI & PIAZZA PITTI

Formaggioteca Terroir: If you like your aperitivo alongside a cheeseboard this is the place. 4.30-10.30pm Mon, 11.30am-10.30pm Tue-Sat €€

Trattoria Bordino: Climb behind Piazza Santa Felicita to discover the Tuscan cuisine at this well-loved trattoria. noon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm €€

Olivia: Frantoio di Santa Téa’s olive oil is the star of every Olivia dish. 11.30am-4pm & 6-10pm Tue & Wed, 11.30am-10pm Thu-Sat, to 5pm Sun €€

Enoteca Pitti Gola e Cantina: A bit on the pricier side, but you’ll be spoilt for choice with wine pairings. noon-11pm Sun-Fri, to 10pm Sat €€€

Strega Nocciola: Grab a scoop of gelato in this Oltrano favourite before starting the climb up the hill. 11.30am-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-11pm Sat €

Forno San Niccolò: Grab a sandwich or a slice of pizza on the go in San Niccolò’s neighbourhood bakery. 7am-3.30pm Mon-Sat €

Beppa Fioraia: Take a seat in this idyllic spot to snack on a tasting platter of local cheeses and cured meats. 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-11pm €€

Osteria Antica Mescita: Hams and salami hanging from the ceiling set the tone of this rustic osteria. noon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm €€

San Frediano & Santo Spirito

CONTEMPORARY CULTURE | APERITIVO BARS | CRAFTS & DESIGN

In 1949 Nobel Prize–nominee Vasco Pratolini described the neighbourhood of San Frediano as ‘the city’s unhealthiest district’ in his famous novel Le Ragazze di San Frediano (The Girls of San Frediano), set in the streets ‘populated like anthills’ of postwar Oltrarno. While artisans and antique shops dotting the area south of the river continue to remind locals and visitors of a past era, much has changed since Pratolini’s time. The formerly working-class area comprising Santo Spirito and San Frediano has radically transformed to cater for the growing international population of expat residents and visitors. The workshops of framers, carvers and bookbinders gradually converted to interior design ateliers and boutique stores and the neighbourhoods have opened up to contemporary art galleries, hip cocktail bars and quirky restaurants, which functioned as a magnet for the wave of travellers seeking to experience a facet of the city’s identity different from that of the open-air museum that is the historic centre.

SIGHTS

1Basilica di Santo Spirito

2Cappella Brancacci

3Fondazione Salvatore Romano

4Giardino Torrigiani

5Museo di Simbologia Massonica

SLEEPING

6AdAstra

7Hotel Palazzo Guadagni

8Oltrarno Splendid

9Ostello Tasso

10SoprArno Suites

EATING

11#RAW

12Alla Vecchia Bettola

13Dalla Lola

Gelateria della Passera (see 19)

14Gurdulù

15I’ Trippaio di San Frediano

16Osteria Santo Spirito

17Santo Falafel

18Sbrino

19Schiaccia Passera

20Wild Buns Bakery

DRINKING

21Il Conventino

22La Cité

23MAD Souls & Spirits

24Santarosa Bistrot

25Serre Torrigiani

ENTERTAINMENT

26Sala Vanni

SHOPPING

27Galleria Romanelli

GETTING AROUND

Most of Oltrarno is a low-traffic area – even non-pedestrian streets are safe and easy to walk along. Many buses run regularly on Borgo San Frediano and Lungarno Soderini, taking you on the eastern and western sides of the city. From Piazza Tasso you can take bus 12 up to Piazzale Michelangelo. Movi electric bicycles are scattered around the city. Unlock a bike with the RideMovi app by scanning the QR code found on the handlebar and get anywhere in a matter of minutes.

TOP TIP

For some of the best views over the city, climb the Bellosguardo hill south of San Frediano – with a 20-minute walk you’ll earn a panoramic vista over all of Florence’s major buildings, from Palazzo Pitti to the Duomo.

Renaissance Pioneers

Gaze at Masaccio and Masolino da Panicale frescoes

In the early 15th century, merchant Felice Brancacci commissioned the decoration of a chapel of Basilica di Santa Maria del Carmine to two of the pioneers of Florentine Renaissance art: Masaccio and Masolino da Panicale. Cappella Brancacci’s cycle of 14 paintings, completed by Filippino Lippi, trace the life of St Peter and have become an emblem of the shift towards realism that characterised the passage from Gothic to Renaissance art. Today the frescoes still stand as San Frediano’s most treasured works, brought back to their former glory thanks to a three-year renovation project completed in 2024. To visit, book your tickets in advance online (ticketsmuseums.comune.fi.it; €7) and enter via the door on the right of Basilica di Santa Maria del Carmine’s main entrance.

Experimental Jazz in the Basilica

Listen to a concert in Santa Maria del Carmine

Florence’s city centre has little to offer when it comes to live music, but a concert hall nestled in a wing of the Basilica di Santa Maria del Carmine makes up for the lack of performances. Taking its name from Gian Battista Vanni, author of the 1645 frescoes that adorn its walls, Sala Vanni hosts a rich program of experimental jazz artists from autumn to spring. Check what’s on at musicusconcentus.com.

Esoteric English Gardens

Stroll through esoteric symbols in Giardino Torrigiani

Tall walls surround much of Giardino Torrigiani (giardinotorrigiani.it), Europe’s largest privately owned garden to be found inside a historic city centre. Stretching for around 7 hectares between Via dei Serragli and Piazza Tasso, the monumental gardens belonging to the Torrigiani estate were designed by landscape architects Luigi de Cambray Digny and Gaetano Baccani in the 18th century, inspired by the English-style gardens popular during the Romantic era. Standing in contrast to orderly Boboli, Giardino Torrigiani’s forested grounds are dotted with obscure symbols – book a private tour by emailing info@giardinotorrigiani.it to learn about the initiation ceremonies people willing to join the Freemasonry went through in this mysterious park blending botany and esotericism. The southern edge of the property houses Serre Torrigiani, an open-air cocktail bar and restaurant, welcoming guests (through a separate entrance) in the fairytale-like atmosphere of the garden during long summer nights.

Masonic Symbols

Italy’s first museum of masonic symbolism

Together with Turin, Florence has historically been one the most important centres of the Freemasonry in Italy. Third-generation mason Cristiano Franceschini has spent 50 years of his life collecting artefacts related to the brotherhood from around the world, from aprons and banners to ceramics and hammers. This collection is now housed inside the Museo di Simbologia Massonica (musma.firenze.it; €7), the first Italian museum of masonic symbology found in Via dell’Orto. From the outside this little museum is barely noticeable, but behind the glass door are some 10,000 objects that were once used in the secretive ceremonies of the organisation. There are few explanatory signs, but Cristiano is typically happy to provide a tour and explain the meaning behind the symbols that would otherwise remain obscure to the uninitiated.

HOLY MARY OF THE STENCH

Walk to the end of the narrow Via Toscanella, running from Piazza della Passera to Borgo San Jacopo, and look up to spot the clay sculpture known as the Holy Mary of the Stench (Madonna del Puzzo) – a bust of the Virgin Mary with a disgusted facial expression, holding her nose to stop the smell from entering her nostrils.

Local artist Mario Mariotti (1936–97) produced the artwork in the 1980s and placed it above the trash bins that used to occupy this once-neglected corner of the city. The bins are no longer there, but the artwork remains in memory of the late sculptor’s profane sense of humour.

Antiquarian Legacy

Salvatore Romano’s art collection

The former refectory of Basilica di Santo Spirito houses a fine collection of sculptures, fragments of frescoes and architectural ornaments donated to the city by antiquarian Salvatore Romano in 1946. The delicate marble reliefs attributed to Donatello and the massive 14th-century fresco by Orcagna on the eastern wall of the museum are good reasons to step into this often overlooked hall of wonders. Tickets for the Fondazione Salvatore Romano are sold at Cappella Brancacci, five minutes away.

EATING IN SAN FREDIANO & SANTO SPIRITO

I’ Trippaio di San Frediano: Legendary street-food spot with all the Florentine classics, including lampredotto, tongue and tripe. 10am-6pm Mon-Fri €

Schiaccia Passera: This new sandwich shop fills warm flatbreads with a dozen different combinations of ingredients. Eat in or take away. 10am-10pm €

RAW: This cafe is all about uncooked, plant-based, nutritious (and gluten-free) foods. Wraps, pizzas, salads and burgers. 11.30am-4pm Tue-Sun €€

Santo Falafel: For a break from all the pasta, try the Middle Eastern flavours of this beloved falafel-wrap spot, steps away from Piazza Santo Spirito. 11.30am-midnight €

Osteria Santo Spirito: Expect to stand in line at this traditional, rustic osteria – the chairs spilling onto Piazza Santo Spirito fill up quickly. 12.15-2.15pm & 7.30-10pm Thu-Mon €€

Alla Vecchia Bettola: Slightly out of the way, but worth the walk for the rustic atmosphere and tasty food. noon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat €€

Gurdulù: Contemporary dining area overlooking Via delle Caldaie and serving up homemade bread and pasta. 6-11pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, noon-3pm & 6-11pm Sat & Sun €€

Dalla Lola: Expect a fresh and welcome take on Tuscan cuisine at this little corner eatery in Santo Spirito. noon-2.30pm Tue & Sat, noon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Wed-Fri €€

Art-filled Basilica

Under Michelangelo’s lost crucifix in Santo Spirito

Overlooking the bar-lined piazza, the cream-coloured plain facade of the Basilica di Santo Spirito may not look as impressive as other major Florentine churches, but step inside this 15th-century structure designed by architectural eminence Filippo Brunelleschi to find 38 chapels adorned by major Renaissance artists. Among the most prominent are Filippino Lippi’s Pala Nerli (1485–88) and Alessandro Allori’s Cristo e L’Adultera (1577) nestled amid pietra serena columns with Corinthian capitals. In the sacristy of the basilica you’ll find the wooden crucifix attributed to Michelangelo. The slender figure is believed to have been produced during the brief period when 17-year-old Michelangelo lived in Santo Spirito and was believed to had been lost until 1964, when German researcher Margrit Lisner, a specialist in 15th-century Tuscan crucifixes, stated that the precious sculpture had never left its original location. Entering the basilica is free, but there is a €2 charge (cash only) to enter the sacristy. Photos are not allowed.

RENAISSANCE ROMANCE

One of the Renaissance’s most talked-about love affairs took place behind the intricately decorated facade of the Palazzo Bianca Cappello, purchased in the 1570s by Francesco I de’ Medici to house his Venetian mistress Bianca Cappello. Legend has it that a secret underground tunnel connected the building with Palazzo Pitti, where the Grand Duke lived with his wife, Joanna of Austria, so that Francesco could reach his lover avoiding the gaze of the gossiping populace. Palazzo Bianca Cappello is now a finely furnished luxurious hotel where modern amenities blend with old-charm touches. Even if you are not staying there, stop by to admire the facade’s decorations standing out from the nearby palaces in Via Maggio.

Make Your Own David

Sculpting courses for beginners in a classical workshop

Museums like the Bargello, Galleria dell’Accademia, Uffizi and Palazzo Pitti house iconic sculptures central to Florence’s artistic heritage. However, few workshops continue the craft of sculpture-making. One such workshop is Galleria Romanelli, located in Borgo San Frediano. Inside, the showroom displays classical figures – equestrian statues, Roman emperors and famous fight scenes. Originally a church, the space became an art studio in 1829 under Lorenzo Bartolini, a sculptor for the Bonaparte family. After his death, his student Pasquale Romanelli’s family took over.

Today Galleria Romanelli offers international commissions and sculpting courses, including three-hour beginner sessions led by Raffaello Romanelli (starting at €99), focused on sections of Michelangelo’s David.

GELATO, COFFEE & Cocktails IN SAN FREDIANO & SANTO SPIRITO

Wild Buns: This Swedish-Estonian bakery in Via di Camaldoli serves Italian espresso with a side of glorious Nordic cinnamon buns. 8.30am-3pm Wed-Sun €

Sbrino: The hyper-specific flavours pay tribute to the origin of the ingredients used to make the artisanal gelato in this wood-clad shop in Via dei Serragli. 1pm-midnight €

Gelateria della Passera: The space is tiny and the queue is long at the award-winning gelateria in Piazza della Passera. 10.30am-midnight Tue-Sun €

Il Conventino: The inspired crowd relax with books, magazines and good drinks under the tall ceiling hall that once housed a convent. 9am-11pm Tue-Sat, to 8pm Sun €

La Cité: Comfy couches and mismatched furniture make this cafe a favourite among the student crowd. 10am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri, noon-1am Sat, 3-9pm Sun

MAD Souls & Spirits: A neighbourhood cocktail bar making great drinks with a touch of irony. The welcoming bartenders will make you feel at home. 6pm-2am

Serre Torrigiani: Set in a lush corner of Giardino Torrigiani, this restaurant and cocktail bar comes to life in summer (although it is open year-round). 7pm-2am Tue-Sat, 12.30pm-2am Sun

Santarosa Bistrot: Hidden behind the old city walls, Santarosa’s garden bar is a prime spot for an aperitivo away from the crowds. 8am-midnight Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun

Beyond Florence

Florence’s immediate surrounds feel like another world. Take a day trip to the green hills overlooking the Duomo to find the traces left behind by past civilisations.

You don’t need to travel far to leave behind the bustle of Florence’s centre – a short bus ride takes you up the hills surrounding the Renaissance city, where you’ll find archaeological sites, isolated monasteries, lavish villas and exceptional views. Fiesole, 9km northeast of Florence, has been a prized location for centuries, attracting artists and aristocrats looking for inspiration and peace amid its olive groves sloping down to the valley. Discover the Etruscan and Roman ruins that preceded the birth of Florence, then continue onwards to one of the Medici’s summer residences in Pratolino, where you’ll find the Apennine Colossus guarding the UNESCO-listed property designed by Bernardo Buontalenti.

GETTING AROUND

To get to Fiesole, take bus 7 from Santa Maria Novella. The trip takes about 25 minutes and takes you to Piazza Mino, Fiesole’s main square, which is dominated by the lofty bell tower of the Cattedrale di San Romolo, the town’s stone duomo dating back to the 11th century. Buses 307 and 302 take you to Pratolino from Piazza della Libertà in 40 minutes.

FiesoleTIME FROM FLORENCE: 25 MINS jpg

Walk through the ruins of Fiesole’s archaeological area

Ancient Fiesole is often regarded as the mother of Florence. In this hilltop town the Etruscans settled between the 8th and 4th centuries BCE, founding the citadel of Vipsul (or Visul) that would eventually be taken over by Romans, whose domain expanded to the Arno valley and the area where Florence currently stands. Fiesole’s Area Archeologica (museidifiesole.it; adult/child €7/5) is the fascinating open-air museum where the remains of the Etruscan and Roman civilisations can be found. Enter the park located steps away from Piazza Mino to find an almost intact Roman amphitheatre – one of the oldest in Italy to be still in great condition, built in the 1st century BCE – surrounded by thermal baths and the foundation of a temple where rituals were held 2000 years ago. Next to the Area Archeologica is the Museo Civico Archeologico, which traces the development of the city from its origins through artefacts unearthed on the site dating as far back as the Bronze Age.

Franciscan convent with a view

From Piazza Mino, walk up to the Convento di San Francesco in approximately 10 minutes. The construction of this stone-built Franciscan convent began in 1330, but the structure continued to expand over the following century. Inside, the Crocifissione (Crucifixion) by 15th-century Florentine painter Neri di Bicci hangs behind the altar, although the spectacular view over Florence’s skyline that you’ll see from the outer terrace beats any artwork.

Medieval art at Museo Bandini

Named after Angelo Maria Bandini, the 18th-century collector who amassed a vast collection of 13th- and 14th-century works over the course of his life, Museo Bandini showcases a selection of works by medieval Tuscan artists, plus some fine ceramics from the Della Robbia workshop.

WALK WHERE LEONARDO FLEW

Exit Fiesole’s centre for a short hike around the pietra serena quarries of Montececeri. Take the 3km Sentiero delle Cave in the Parco di Montececeri to walk past the caves where Renaissance architects would gather the raw materials to build many of the major Florentine structures, including the Uffizi’s loggia. This short path will take you all the way to Piazzale Leonardo. On the clearing of the hill, you’ll find the inscription reminding of one of Leonardo da Vinci’s great feats that took place in this spot – the first test of his flying machine in 1506, done after 30 years of studying the mechanics of humanity’s earliest aircrafts.

VagliaTIME FROM FLORENCE: 40 MINS jpg

The Medici’s other garden

One of the 14 UNESCO-listed countryside properties that once belonged to the Medici family, the Parco di Pratolino (entrance free; Apr-Oct) welcomes visitors to one of the great examples of Italian Renaissance gardens owned by Florence’s ruling family. Francesco de’ Medici purchased the land on the lower slopes of the Appennines in 1568 and commissioned the construction of the grandiose villa and gardens to court architect Bernardo Buontalenti. Many artists were invited to decorate the garden, the most important being flemish sculptor Giambologna who, in 1580, constructed the 14m-tall Colosso dell’Appennino, a monumental personification of the mountain chain that runs behind the park. In the 19th century the property was acquired by Russian Prince Pavel Pavlovič Demidoff, who continued to enrich the area.

Hike around Montesenario’s convent

A beautiful tree-lined avenue leads to the Santuario di Montesenario, an isolated convent surrounded by forests whose foundation dates back to the 13th century. Walk up for approximately 1km from the parking lot at the end of Via di Montesenario and enter the church to find 16th- and 17th-century baroque interiors and a shop selling liquor made in the distillery run by the friars. Hiking trails stretch from this quiet sanctuary in various directions, connecting the grottoes scattered throughout the area.

Places We Love to Stay

€ Budget €€ Midrange €€€ Top End

Piazza del Duomo & Piazza della Signoria Map here

Antica Torre di Via Tornabuoni 1 €€€ The 12 rooms of this historic hotel are located in a medieval casa-torre mentioned by Dante in the Divine Comedy. Arazzi from the family collection adorn the staircases and 360-degree views await on the rooftop.

Stella d’Italia €€€ Quiet despite its hyper-central location, the new Stella d’Italia boutique hotel is as creative as it is elegant.

Palazzo Niccolini al Duomo €€€ With unchallenged views of the Duomo, the 16th-century residence belonging to the aristocratic Niccolini family takes you back to an era of golden frames, frescoed walls and hand-carved furniture.

Hotel Calimala €€€ Nestled between all the major sights, this four-star hotel ticks all the boxes, with a rooftop bar, 24-hour gym and modern rooms.

Hotel Brunelleschi €€€ Named after Florence’s best-known architect, this boutique hotel includes a Michelin-starred restaurant and a gym in the heart of the city.

Santa Maria Novella Map here

New Generation Hostel € Well located in Borgo Ognissanti and offering soft beds, big lockers, free Wi-Fi and an elegant courtyard.

La Locandiera B&B €€ This simple B&B is located 300m from Piazza Santa Maria Novella. Breakfast is served directly in your room every morning!

Hotel Ambasciatori €€ If you need to catch an early train, this sleek hotel sits right outside Santa Maria Novella station.

Garibaldi Blu €€€ Designer hotel facing Piazza Santa Maria Novella, with spacious rooms and friendly service.

Casa Howard €€€ The tastefully refurbished rooms of this 18th-century palazzo offer an intimate boutique atmosphere with a vintage touch in Via della Scala.

Palazzo Montebello €€€ A luxurious property hidden in plain sight on a quiet street just steps away from the river.

L’Orologio €€€ An independent property dedicated to the owner Sandro Fratini’s luxury watch collection. Each room is inspired by a model – get the Eurasia room on the Patek Philippe floor for a great view of the Duomo.

25hours €€€ Suitcases pile up at reception under brick vaults, where you’ll get a key for your room on either the paradise-, purgatory- or hell-themed floor. Dantesque doesn’t mean medieval here; 25hours is as trendy as it gets.

Grand Hotel Minerva €€€ One of the largest hotels on Piazza Santa Maria Novella has windows overlooking Leon Battista Alberti’s basilica facade, plus a rooftop pool that doesn’t hurt.

Westin Excelsior €€€ With over 170 rooms, Westin Excelsior is one of Florence’s major five-star hotels. Climb to its rooftop bar SE.STO on the Arno for top views over the city.

San Lorenzo & San Marco Map here

Ostello Bello € A bit pricier than your average hostel, the Florentine outlet of this Milan-based hostel chain has a bar and many activities for its San Lorenzo guests.

Plus Hostel € This mega-hostel in Via Santa Caterina d’Alessandria has a rooftop pool and an Irish pub on the opposite side of the street.

Social Hub €€ Formerly known as the Student Hotel, this colourful Dutch property welcomes short-term visitors as well as international students. Go to the rooftop bar for cocktail with a view of Brunelleschi’s Duomo.

Antica Dimora Johlea €€ With silk curtains, canopy beds and perfect views over the Duomo from the rooftop terrace, this high-end boutique hotel is a relaxing retreat steps away from the Galleria dell’Accademia.

Hotel Number Nine €€€ Despite its vicinity to San Lorenzo’s market, the luxurious Number Nine offers 40 tranquil room in the exclusive premises of Florence’s first contemporary members’ club.

Santa Croce Map here

Casa dei Tintori B&B €€ Warm colours and stone arches make you feel at home in this cosy B&B, housed inside a medieval palace around the corner from Piazza Santa Croce and its basilica.

Secret Garden B&B €€ Lucrezia’s Secret Garden is a green oasis snug between San Marco and Sant’Ambrogio, an ideal place to recharge after a day of exploration.

Numeroventi €€€ Housed inside a former syrup factory, Numeroventi is an international artist’s residence with big rustic-chic, Scandinavian-inspired rooms. A frescoed coworking space and exhibition hall add to the creative vibe.

San Niccolò, Boboli & Piazza Pitti Map here

Hotel Silla €€ Welcoming staff, large rooms, generous breakfasts and a location close to the city centre and Piazzale Michelangelo.

FuordArno €€ This cosy B&B has rooms inspired by different cities from around the globe.

Hotel La Scaletta €€ An 18th-century fresco awaits at reception, created when this property functioned as the residence of a prince. The position could hardly be better – Ponte Vecchio, Palazzo Pitti and San Frediano are all steps away.

Serristori Palace €€€ Quiet studio apartments and a little terrace with great views of the Duomo and the National Library.

San Frediano & Santo Spirito Map here

Ostello Tasso € Located on a quiet sloping street of the Oltrarno, this design hostel is built around a former theatre turned into a cocktail bar that hosts many events year-round.

Hotel Palazzo Guadagni €€ The preserved frescoes on the tall ceilings contribute to any art getaway. The highlight, however, is the Loggia Roof Bar overlooking Santo Spirito.

Oltrarno Splendid €€€ On the 3rd floor of a stately palace, this 14-room boutique hotel turns colourful Italian pop icons into elegant decor elements. Bathtubs and views from the king rooms.

Ad Astra €€€ This 16-room boutique hotel faces the Torrigiani English garden, the largest of the kind in a European historic centre. Enjoy breakfast with a view over the tower.

Torre di Bellosguardo €€€ Immersed in nature, this 13th-century tower turned into an idyllic residence offers one of the best views over the city from its outdoor swimming pool. Parking and cooking courses also available.

SoprArno Suites €€€ With 13 design-centric room – each one decorated with a unique style – this sophisticated boutique hotel makes for a cosy Oltrarno stay.

Grand Hotel Minerva | Sviatlana Zyhmantovic/shutterstock ©

Siena & Central Tuscany

WINE, ROLLING HILLS AND MEDIEVAL HISTORY

Landscapes just waiting to be framed surround UNESCO-listed settlements dedicated to keeping century-old flavours and traditions alive.

Pienza | Dado Daniela/getty images ©

The stunning architecture of the compact medieval centres dotting the heart of Tuscany provide all the expected features of a journey back in time. Fortified palaces and ancient case-torri – the tower houses erected by wealthy families competing for power in pre-Renaissance times – define the skylines of cities like Siena, San Gimignano and Volterra together with the stone-built bell towers of Gothic and Romanesque churches that have been continuously visited by long-distance pilgrims for nearly a millennium. But charming urban areas are only part of a picture that no camera will be able to fully reproduce. Hills furnished with perfectly lined cypress trees, vineyards and olive groves in areas such as the Val d’Orcia UNESCO World Heritage Site or the protected Chianti Classico region pay testimony to centuries of human attempts to shape nature and thrive off its precious fruits. Exiting cities via the twisting roads that gently cut through the countryside is more than a visual feast – take the time to stop and listen to the stories embedded in these sun-soaked lands, perhaps by sitting down at the dinner table and sharing a glass of wine with the people who inhabit the area.

Piazza del Campo, Siena | Yuriy Biryukov/shutterstock ©

THE MAIN AREAS

SIENA

Artistic wonders and architectural masterpieces.

SAN GIMIGNANO

Well-preserved medieval city.

PIENZA

Renaissance utopia in the Val d’Orcia.

Find Your Way

The area here defined as Central Tuscany covers the majority of Siena’s province, plus the upper Chianti region and the Florentine Val d’Elsa. Cities, rural towns and castle-dotted countryside all fall within its borders, offering a diverse set of experiences ranging from the instructive to the indulgent.

Plan Your Time

Take it slowly and enjoy Central Tuscany’s delights one toast at a time, shifting from rural, family-run farmhouses to dramatic fortresses in the wine-centric countryside.

Palazzo Comunale, San Gimignano | imagoDens/shutterstock ©

If You Only Do One Thing

• Head straight to Siena to discover the art and architecture of the medieval republic, starting at one of Tuscany’s best-known city squares – the semicircular Piazza del Campo, composed of nine slices in reference to the days when the city was ruled by the Government of the Nine.

• Enter the Palazzo Pubblico and roam the halls of the treasure-filled Museo Civico, before moving to Piazza del Duomo to admire the astonishing Duomo that even the Florentine envy, before getting lost among the artworks housed inside the former hospital of Santa Maria della Scala.

Three Days to Travel Around

• Rent a car and set out for a mesmerising road trip across the UNESCO-listed Val d’Orcia and the Crete Senesi. Driving south from Siena, pass by the lunar landscapes surrounding Asciano to visit the Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore, before continuing to San Giovanni d’Asso for an obligatory truffle tasting.

• Enter the Val d’Orcia via San Quirico d’Orcia and then head to Pienza, the ‘ideal city’, for a walk through its Renaissance architecture.

• Dip your toes in the hot springs of Bagno Vignoni, before celebrating with a glass or two of Brunello in Montalcino.

If You Have More Time

• In addition to the previous itineraries, those with the luxury of time can also leave behind motorised vehicles and explore Central Tuscany by bike or foot, following either the Via Francigena or the Eroica itinerary.

• The former wealth of many central Tuscan cities was owed to the constant traffic of devotees travelling the Via Francigena on their way to the Holy Land, a route that can be retraced today, visiting Siena, San Gimignano and Monteriggioni.

• The Eroica cycling race has more recent origins but has gained a cult following of vintage-bike enthusiasts. The route stretches for over 200km from Gaiole in Chianti and can be done year-round in three to five days.

Seasonal Highlights

To make the most of your Central Tuscany trip, try to avoid winter and wait instead until the long, sunny days of spring to start exploring.

JUNE

Late spring is the best time to visit the Val d’Orcia, as fields turn golden and days get longer.

JULY

The medieval town of Certaldo, birthplace of writer Giovanni Boccaccio, awakens with four days of street performances during the Mercantia Festival.

AUGUST

The Palio horse race in Piazza del Campo is Siena’s most awaited event – the entire city stops to see the different contrade (districts) compete. Also held in July.

SEPTEMBER

Wine-harvest season coincides with the Expo del Chianti Classico, the most important wine fair of the Chianti region.

OCTOBER

The official Eroica cycling race starts at 4.30am on the first Sunday of October, with over 7000 cyclists competing in vintage gear.

NOVEMBER

Truffle hunters gather in San Giovanni d’Asso during the second and third weekend of November for the Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Bianco.

DECEMBER

San Quirico d’Orcia celebrates its olive oil with markets, tastings and walks during its Festa dell’Olio, held during the first week of the month.

Siena

MEDIEVAL HISTORY | ART | ARCHITECTURE

Many of the most powerful Italian city-states that emerged from the Middle Ages, like Pisa, Venice and Florence, drew their wealth from water. Siena – as anyone who visits will notice – didn’t have such an advantage; unlike other major medieval powers, Siena could not rely on access to rivers or seas for transport and trade. Still, the city, nestled on three hills located between the Crete Senesi and the Val d’Elsa area, flourished during the 13th century, developing a political system that would guarantee a period of peace prolonged enough to allow the development of one of Italy’s most influential universities and one of Europe’s richest art collections. Traces of this legacy are still visible today, starting from the architecture of the enchanting Piazza del Campo, the city’s main square, to the Duomo, one of Tuscany’s most impressive cathedrals, containing centuries of creativity within its intricately adorned walls.

HIGHLIGHTS

1Duomo

2Palazzo Pubblico

3Piazza del Campo

SIGHTS

4Battistero di San Giovanni

5Fonte Gaia

6Logge del Papa

Museo Civico (see 2)

7Museo delle Tavolette di Biccherne

8Museo dell’Opera Metropolitana

9Orto Botanico

10Orto de’ Pecci

11Palazzo Chigi Saracini

12Pinacoteca Nazionale

13Spedale di Santa Maria della Scala

14Torre del Mangia

SLEEPING

15Albergo Bernini

16Antica Residenza Cicogna

17B&B Il Corso

18Hotel Alma Domus

19Hotel Chiusarelli

EATING

20Il Cavaliere Errante

21La Taverna di San Giuseppe

22Morbidi

23Osteria Boccon del Prete

24Osteria Le Logge

25Ristorante All’Orto de’ Pecci

26Ristorante Gallo Nero

DRINKING

27Torrefazione Fiorella

28Trefilari Wine Bar

GETTING AROUND

Siena is one of Tuscany’s most walkable cities, despite the ups and downs. The city is split into three terzi – the historical areas set on the three hills Siena is built on – known as Città, San Martino and Camollia, which are further divided into 17 contrade (districts). These historic districts still play a key role in the identity of each Siena native. From the railway station you can take the escalator to Porta Camollia, where you’ll enter the city’s core. Exploring from there is easy – all major sights are a short distance away.

TOP TIP

If you are arriving from Florence be aware that not all trains are direct – you will often have to switch in Empoli. The bus connecting the two cities is faster, taking approximately an hour and 15 minutes instead of 1½ hours or more.

Siena’s Theatrical Square

A testament to the city’s golden age

The striking amphitheatre that is Piazza del Campo – often simply referred to as il Campo – is the starting point to every visit to the city. Siena’s shell-shaped, sloping, red-bricked central square, admired for its unique geometry and well-preserved medieval architecture, has functioned as the centre of politics and social life for over seven centuries. Existing in its earliest form since the late 12th century, Piazza del Campo went from a market square to being the fulcrum of Siena’s civic life with the construction of the Palazzo Pubblico, the grandiose Gothic palace occupying most of the square’s southern side, built to symbolise the power of the Sienese independent Republic, then ruled by the Government of the Nine.

Measuring 333m in circumference and split into nine slices reminiscent of the nine members of the Republic’s ruling class, the square hosts the Mercato nel Campo (mercatonelcampo.it) – inspired by the medieval market once held in the same space – each December, although it is most famous for being the home of the Palio, Siena’s most awaited event of the year. An 1869 copy of Jacopo della Quercia’s monumental Fonte Gaia (1419) sits on the square’s northern edge. A statue of Venus once topped the fountain, but religious leaders destroyed it following the Black Death, believing that the epidemic was a result of worshipping pagan deities – the statue’s fragments are said to have been buried in Florentine lands to wish the enemy an equal misfortune.

TOP EXPERIENCE
Palazzo Pubblico & Museo Civico

Flanked by the 88m Torre del Mangia – Siena’s tallest building and a symbol of the once powerful independent Republic – is one of Italy’s most glorious examples of civil Gothic architecture, Palazzo Pubblico. Enter to admire the unmatched art collection of the Museo Civico, housed in the halls where the Government of the Nine once ruled from.

Palazzo Pubblico | SCStock/shutterstock ©

DON’T MISS

Cortile del Podestà

Sala del Risorgimento

Sala del Mappamondo

Sala della Pace

Torre del Mangia

PRACTICALITIES

Scan this QR code for tickets and opening hours on the Museo Civico’s official website.

The Government of the Nine

Completed in various stages between 1288 and 1342 and further expanded in 1680, Palazzo Pubblico still houses the city hall. The grandiose palace has functioned as the centre of power since the 13th century, when Siena developed an innovative administration system, which would guarantee a long period of prosperity in a city that had been previously marked by political turmoil. In the Government of the Nine, nine elected Governors and Defenders of the Commune and People of Siena, as they were officially known, formed a council that served for two-month terms, before being substituted by a new group. They were selected from the city’s mercantile class, specifically excluding lawyers and the most powerful families to ensure a broad representation of the populace. Through this system, Siena managed to reduce the centralisation of power in the hands of a few families, creating nearly a century of stability, which allowed for the flourishing of the arts and the expansion of the palace that has remained the city’s symbol to this day.

Museo Civico

At the time of the palace’s construction, the most celebrated Sienese artists were hired to decorate the halls of what is now the Museo Civico. Located on the 1st floor of the Palazzo Pubblico and accessible via the photogenic Cortile del Podestà, the museum’s exhibition is not chronological – start in the picture gallery containing artworks produced between the 16th and 18th century, then continue via the Loggia dei Nove to the 19th-century Sala del Risorgimento – inaugurated after the death of the first king of unified Italy Vittorio Emanuele II – to reach the marvellous Sala di Balìa, featuring the Sixteen Virtues fresco by Martino Bartolomeo adorning the vaults and Spinello Aretino’s detailed cycle Storie di Alessandro III, both completed in the early 1400s. Continue through the chapel and you’ll soon reach the Sala del Mappamondo, former seat of the Republic’s Council frescoed by Simone Martini, whose Maestà (1312) was intended to demonstrate the devotion of Sienese to the Holy Mary, renewed every year during the Palio, which takes place as part of the Assumption Day celebrations.

CLIMBING THE TORRE DEL MANGIA

Torre del Mangia, Siena’s most famous tower, takes its name from bell ringer Giovanni di Balduccio, nicknamed mangia guadagni (money eater) for his unhealthy spending habits. Reaching the top of the tower (combo tickets with Museo Civico €15) requires you to climb 400 steps – an effort that will be rewarded by one of the best views of the city.

The Allegory of Good & Bad Government

Continue to the Sala della Pace (or Sala dei Nove) to find the centrepiece of Museo Civico. Ambrogio Lorenzetti’s Effetti del Buon Governo in Città and Effetti del Buon Governo in Campagna (1337–39) form a unique political manifesto meant to influence the temporary rulers of the Republic by showing the results of a ‘good’ government in both the city and the countryside – a thriving society of joyful dancers, artisans trading goods, people hunting and collecting produce. And if the message wasn’t clear enough, opposite the fresco you can see the Effetti del Cattivo Governo, the effects of a bad government, where demons representing the evils of society appear as a result of greed and corruption.

TOP TIPS

• Combined tickets including entrance to Santa Maria della Scala and the Pinacoteca Nazionale are available at the ticket office. They are valid for one or two days, so plan your visit in advance to fit them all in.

• You can buy tickets online, but booking ahead is not essential, especially if you are visiting during a weekday. Early morning and late afternoons are best for avoiding crowds.

• Museo Civico is fully accessible. An elevator is available on request for people with mobility issues. The museum can also provide a wheelchair if needed. Ask for assistance at the ticket office.

TOP EXPERIENCE
Siena’s Duomo

Blending elements of Romanesque and Gothic architecture, the intricate facade of Siena’s Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta – the city’s Duomo – dominates the piazza that has functioned as the core of the city’s religious life since the Middle Ages. Originally established in 1179, the cathedral dedicated to the Assumption of Mary has changed and expanded over the centuries, becoming a sight that astonishes no matter how many other Tuscan churches you’ve gone through already.

Duomo | Nominesine/shutterstock ©

DON’T MISS

The facade

The floor

The Piccolomini Library

Altare Piccolomini

Nicola Pisano’s Pulpit

La Porta del Cielo

PRACTICALITIES

Scan this QR code to book tickets in advance via the Duomos’ official website.

The Facade

The facade took nearly 600 years to complete. Giovanni Pisano worked on the lower part, composed of three monumental doors topped by gothic tympana, for over a decade starting in 1287, but he never completed his polychrome marble gem, leaving the city for Pisa in 1296. The statues of prophets and apostles dating back to Pisano’s age have now been placed in the nearby Museo dell’Opera Metropolitana and substituted with copies. The rose window was added in 1288, but the construction of the upper section didn’t begin until 1376, when Giovanni di Cecco took on the project inspired by the Cathedral of Orvieto. The mosaics, created by Augusto Castellani, were added only in the late 19th century.

The Floor Mosaic

The facade is only part of the masterpiece – enter and you’ll immediately notice the striking black and white pillars leading to the starred vaults of the ceiling, but look down to admire the exceptional floor, made of 56 panels of elaborate, large-scale mosaic described by Giorgio Vasari as ‘the most beautiful, great and magnificent that was ever made’. Representing scenes from the Old Testament, the marble compositions were produced between the 14th and 19th century by up to 40 different artists – all Sienese apart from Pinturicchio. In order to preserve this monumental example of collective art, the floor is covered for part of the year. Typically the floor mosaic is uncovered for the public to see in July and between mid-August and mid-October. Dates change from year to year – keep an eye on operaduomo.siena.it/pavimento for updates.

BELOW THE DUOMO

What is commonly referred to as the ‘crypt’ was in fact a welcome centre for the pilgrims travelling on the Via Francigena, who would enter the rooms found below the cathedral to admire the 13th-century cycle of biblical frescoes decorating the walls. These hidden rooms were rediscovered only in 1999 – the artworks’ vibrant colours have been greatly preserved thanks to the lack of exposure to sunlight and are now a key part of Siena’s medieval heritage.

Notable Sculptures

The busts of the 171 popes sit on the cornice of the central nave, observing visitors from above. Among the artworks adorning the church are Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s sculptures Santi Girolamo and Maria Maddalena (1661–63) located in the baroque Cappella della Madonna del Voto and the octagonal Carrara marble pulpit sculpted by Nicola Pisano with the assistance of his son Giovanni and Arnolfo di Cambio between 1266 and 1268. In the left nave, find the Altare Piccolomini by Andrea Bregno (1481–85), a wonderful Carrara marble altar commissioned in the 1480s and decorated by different artists in the following decades. Among them is Michelangelo, who contributed with the four niche statues representing St Peter, St Augustine, St Paul and St Gregory, created between 1501 and 1504.

The Piccolomini Library

The cathedral is also home to the Piccolomini Library, built around 1495 to preserve the vast collection of manuscripts of Enea Silvio Bartolomeo Piccolomini, better known as Pope Pius II. Found in the left nave, the library is adorned by frescoes attributed to Pinturicchio representing scenes from the life of Pope Pius II.

TOP TIPS

• Buying tickets online (adult/child €10/5) is not essential, but this way you’ll skip the queue that you’ll likely find outside the cathedral’s ticket office.

• During the periods when the floor is uncovered, the Duomo can be especially busy. Get in early.

• The Duomo is wheelchair-accessible thanks to a ramp located on the left side of the building. The museum and the crypt are currently not accessible for wheelchair users.

• Combined tickets (€14, or €16 when the floor is uncovered) allow access to the Museo dell’Opera Metropolitana and the Baptistery.

La Porta del Cielo

For a jaw-dropping view of the Duomo’s interior, try to join one of the Porta del Cielo (Gate of Heaven) tours, which will give you access to the attics of the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta. You’ll be walking around the dome on the terraces via a 30-minute scenic route offering a unique perspective on the church’s treasure. The Porta del Cielo tours are not available year-round; check dates at operaduomo.siena.it/la-porta-del-cielo.

Monumental Medieval Hospital

Discover art and archaeology in Santa Maria della Sacala

In front of the Duomo’s entrance is the Spedale di Santa Maria della Scala (santamariadellascala.com; €9), a 10th-century hospital and orphanage, which continued to assist those in need until 1980, when it was converted from polyclinic to museum. Collecting donations since at least 1090 – as the earliest documents show – Santa Maria della Scala became an incredibly wealthy organisation that gathered and funded a vast artistic legacy.

The museum’s itinerary starts in the Old Sacristy of the 13th-century Chiesa della Santissima Annunziata, where the high altar adorned with a bronze sculpture of Christ has been preserved. It continues to the Pellegrinaio, the hall that used to host pilgrims travelling on the Via Francigena, frescoed in the mid-15th century by Sienese artists including Il Vecchietta and Domenico di Bartolo. Also not to be missed is Jacopo della Quercia’s original Fonte Gaia, the fountain that once stood in Piazza del Campo, followed by the Museo Archeologico Nazionale, tracing the history of archaeological discoveries found below Siena.

Fonte Gaia | imageBROKER.com/shutterstock ©

SIENA’S MOST AWAITED EVENT: THE PALIO

Piazza del Campo has long been the heart of Siena, central to social life and public celebrations since the Middle Ages. Today it remains the focal point during the Palio, a traditional horse race held on 2 July and 16 August, where Siena’s contrade (districts) compete to win the drappellone, a painting displayed in the winning district’s museum.

Leading up to the race, centuries-old rituals are observed, including district decorations, horse assignments, open-air dinners and horse blessings in local churches. Originating from 1633 Assumption celebrations, the Palio involves a historic parade, jockeys in traditional costumes, and three laps around the sand-covered piazza. The event is deeply rooted in local culture – this is not a tourist attraction but a heartfelt celebration for all communities involved.

DRINKING IN SIENA: COFFEE & SWEET TREATS

Torrefazione Fiorella: Family-run roastery serves top espresso made from selected beans. You won’t find a better coffee in Siena. 7am-7pm Mon-Sat

Peccati di Gola: Pastries, biscuits and cakes kick-start the day at this welcoming bakery you’ll want to keep returning to. 7.30am-1pm & 3.30-7pm Mon-Sat, 8am-1pm Sun €

Pasticceria Buti: With half a century of baking history, Pasticceria Buti is a breakfast favourite among locals. Stop for a filled cornetto. 7am-7.30pm Tue-Sat, 8am-1pm Sun €

Pasticceria Corsini: A bit out of the way but worth the walk for the selection of pastries and sweets made with dedication for over a century. 7.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 8am-1pm Sun €

Halls of Sienese Paintings

Explore the collections of the Pinacoteca Nazionale

Spread across three floors in the stately halls of two palaces – the Palazzo Buonsignori and the Palazzo Brigidi – the Pinacoteca Nazionale (pinacotecanazionalesiena.it; adult/child €6/2) houses the world’s most important collection of Sienese paintings. Abbot Giuseppe Ciaccheri began collecting local artworks to save them from destruction during the 18th century, forming the core of the collection – composed of the so-called ‘primitives’ – that is visible today. The exhibit showcases works ranging from the 13th to 18th centuries. Duccio di Buoninsegna is the star of the initial section of the show, as will be immediately obvious when you reach the 2nd floor housing his Gothic-inspired Madonna dei Francescani (1300), but equally impressive works by Simone Martini, Lippo Lemmi, Pietro and Ambrogio Lazzeretti, and Taddeo di Bartolo will compete for your attention in the nearby rooms. The 1st floor is dedicated to the Sienese Renaissance, including works by Giovanni di Paolo, Antonio Bazzi and Domenico Beccafumi, whose designs for the Duomo’s floor mosaic are visible in Room 30.

BEST GREEN SPACES IN SIENA

Orto Botanico: Founded in 1748 and moved to its current location in 1856, Siena’s botanical garden is divided into three sections: pharmaceutical, exotic and ancient plants.

Fortezza Medicea: The imposing fortress built by Cosimo I de’ Medici in the 1560s faces a lovely public park offering great views over the city and a regular flower market.

Orto de’ Pecci: (ortodepecci.it) This oasis has existed since the 13th century and still houses a ‘medieval garden’ with herbs, which are used in the on-site restaurant.

EATING IN SIENA: OSTERIE & TRATTORIE

Osteria Il Vinaio: This half-restaurant, half-store offers local cheeses, cured meats and freshly made meals. 10am-3pm & 6-10pm Mon-Sat €

Il Cavaliere Errante: Siena’s comfort food stop, serving perfect pizzas, plus pastas, antipasti and house wine. noon-3pm & 6-11pm €

Osteria Boccon del Prete: The exposed brick walls make for a rustic feel and the handmade pasta is excellent. noon-3pm & 7-10pm €€

Salefino Vino e Cucina: On the northern edge of the city, Salefino is known for its romantic atmosphere and refined dishes. 7.30-10.30pm €€

Ristorante Gallo Nero: Romantic option that puts a creative twist on the local cuisine. 7-9.30pm Thu, noon-2.30pm & 7-9.30pm Fri-Mon €€

Ristorante All’Orto de’ Pecci: Garden-restaurant serving Sienese cuisine with city-tower views. 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sun €€

La Taverna di San Giuseppe: Get ready for an overload of Tuscan flavours in this historic eatery. noon-2.30pm & 7-9.30pm Mon-Sat €€€

Osteria Le Logge: This Sienese institution serves classic dishes paired with wines from its in-house cellar. noon-2.30pm & 7-10.15pm Mon-Sat €€€

The Duomo’s Treasures

Religious art and spectacular views

On the right of the Duomo, in Piazza Jacopo della Quercia, is the Museo dell’Opera Metropolitana, built on a space originally meant to be an expansion of the cathedral itself, the never-finished Duomo Nuovo. The museum protects 13th-century artworks previously belonging to the Duomo, like the fine marble figures sculpted by Giovanni Pisano that were once adorning the church’s facade and Duccio di Buoninsegna’s high-altar masterpiece Maestà, plus works of other greats including Donatello, Ambrogio Lorenzetti and Domenico Beccafumi. But there is more than art – after admiring the legacy of the Duomo, climb the 130 steps to reach the museum’s Facciatone, the structure that was meant to be the facade of the New Cathedral completed in 1357 before the project was interrupted. Up there, one of the best views over Siena awaits.

Museo dell’Opera Metropolitana | John Cartwright/shutterstock ©

PICCOLOMINI’S LEGACY

Born in nearby Pienza, Enea Silvio Bartolomeo Piccolomini – better known as Pope Pius II – was one of the most influential figures of the Sienese Renaissance. In 1462 he commissioned the Logge del Papa, near the Chiesa di San Martino, and lived in the Palazzo Chigi Saracini, now home to a fine art museum run by the Accademia Musicale Chigiana. After his death the pope’s heirs erected the imposing Palazzo Piccolomini, which now houses the impressive Museo delle Tavolette di Biccherne, a collection of 105 painted tablets used as covers for the accounting files of the local magistrate between the 13th and 17th centuries.

The Baptistery’s Sculptures

Masterpieces of the Sienese Renaissance

Behind its marble facade, the 14th-century Battistero di San Giovanni hides some of the most important frescoes of the Sienese Renaissance, including paintings by Il Vecchietta, and an intricately sculpted baptismal font, produced by some of the greatest artists of the early 15th century, including Jacopo della Quercia, Donatello and Lorenzo Ghiberti.

Order a few small bites with your spritz.

DRINKING IN SIENA: APERITIVO & COCKTAILS

Salefino Bottiglieria: An extension of the homonymous restaurant, this natural wine-focused enoteca is an ideal spot for discovering new labels. 6pm-1am Mon-Sat

Bar Impero: Excellent cocktails are served under the tall, vaulted ceilings of this historic bar near Porta Camollia. 7am-midnight

Trefilari Wine Bar: Get the evening going with a couple of glasses of wine sourced from small regional producers. 4pm-2am Tue-Thu, 2pm-2am Fri-Sun

Morbidi: The artisanal products on display behind the window of this deli-bar will make your mouth water. 9am-7.30pm Mon, 8am-8pm Tue-Thu, to 9pm Fri, to 7.30pm Sat, to 3pm Sun

Beyond Siena

Medieval castles and military dominate the scenery outside of Siena, topping hills covered in vineyards where some of Tuscany’s best-known wines have been produced for centuries.

The clay-rich soils of the Crete Senesi region transform the hills stretching southeast of Siena into a sculptural landscape that seems to belong elsewhere – an elsewhere sought after by the monks who choose to retire in the peaceful, mystical atmosphere of the monumental abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore. But the myths and rituals of the spiritually inclined fade under the gloom of once-impenetrable fortifications reminding us of the long history of conflict between the Sienese and the Florentine powers, adding another narrative layer to a region so rich in history. North, winding two-lane roads twist and turn among the cypresses and vineyards that adorn Tuscany’s most famous wine region, the Chianti. Just know that the Chianti drunk here is not just any Chianti. In 1716, Grand Duke Cosimo III de’ Medici issued a decree outlining the borders of the narrow area roughly extending from San Casciano in Val di Pesa to the northern edge of Siena where Chianti originated. Only vineyards located in this strip of farmland can produce the coveted and highly regarded Chianti ‘Classico’.

GETTING AROUND

Siena’s surroundings are best visited by car. Buses do connect all urban areas in the region, but wineries and smaller hamlets can be hard to reach with public transport. If you have time and patience you can also cross the area on foot – the historic Via Francigena pilgrim route passes through Siena and continues onwards to Monteriggioni towards Tuscany’s southern border.

MonteriggioniTIME FROM SIENA: 25 MINS jpg

Fortress city

Drive half an hour north from Siena and you’ll reach one of the most intriguing remnants of the Middle Ages found in the area. Surrounded by olive groves and vineyards, the fortified hamlet of Monteriggioni appears on the road to San Gimignano with its well-preserved 13th-century elliptical city walls connecting 14 watchtowers. The defensive outpost built on the Via Francigena to defend Siena against Florentine attacks is now a minuscule town accessible via Porta Franca, which you can cross in a matter of minutes. Around the stone-built Chiesa di Santa Maria dell’Assunzione you find a couple of small enoteche and the tiny museum of Monteriggioni in Arme (monteriggioniturismo.it; aduld/child €5), housing faithful reproductions of medieval weapons and armour. Museum admission includes access to the walls’ walkway.

EATING & DRINKING IN MONTERIGGIONI

Cantinetta di Monteriggioni: Taste different varieties of local wines, accompanied by cheese and meat platters, at this well-stocked enoteca. 11am-7pm €€

Osteria Antico Travaglio: Refined tuscan specialities served in the pleasant covered terrace. Don’t miss the pici, handmade daily in-house. noon-3pm & 7-10pm €€

Il Tagliere Medievale: Order a cheese and cured meats board in this rustic wine bar with Middle Ages–inspired decor. noon-5pm Mon-Fri, to 7.30pm Sat & Sun €

Ristorante Le Torri: Elegantly presented Tuscan dishes, served on the open, vine-covered terrace during the warmer months. 12.30-2.30pm & 7-9.30pm Tue-Sun €€

ROAD TRIP
Exploring the Crete Senesi

Encompassing the towns of Asciano, Buonconvento, Rapolano Terme and San Giovanni d’Asso, the Crete Senesi area takes its name from the high concentration of clay (creta) in its soils, forming its distinctive greyish, lunar geography. While often overshadowed by the more famous Val d’Orcia, the Crete Senesi makes for a worthy road trip at the crossroads between picture-perfect nature, history and food.

Buonconvento | Dragoncello/shutterstock ©

1 Asciano

A slow drive past the stone farmhouses, vineyards, cypress trees and hay bales along the scenic SP438 road from Siena leads to the sleepy town of Asciano. Its strollable historic centre is home to the Museo Civico di Archeologia e Arte Sacra inside Palazzo Corboli and the Museo Cassioli dedicated to 19th-century Sienese painting. On the way there you can do a slight detour to Site Transitorie, a stone sculpture created by French artist Jean-Paul Philippe in 1993, representing a human-made window opening on the hills. Make sure to visit when the road is dry as it’s unpaved.

The drive: You have to backtrack a few kilometres from Asciano to take the winding SP451 that leads to the Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore. A parking space is found outside the gate; from there the complex is a short walk away.

2 Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore

Continue to the Benedictine Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore, founded in the 14th century by Saint Bernardo Tolomei. Emerging from a thick pine and oak forest, the red-brick abbey – still home of a community of 32 monks – is one of Tuscany’s most impressive, featuring a library of thousands of ancient manuscripts, a 16th-century herbal pharmacy and the finely frescoed Chiostro Grande.

The drive: To reach San Giovanni d’Asso, travel to Chiusure and continue from there on the Strada Provinciale del Pecorile. A beautiful viewpoint over the cypresses is found at the end of this road.

3 San Giovanni d’Asso

Less than 10km from the Abbazia of Monte Oliveto Maggiore lies San Giovanni d’Asso, a tiny hamlet dating back to the Etruscan era known for its truffles. White, marzuolo or scorzone truffle varieties can be enjoyed here depending on the season, with the Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Bianco held on the second and third weekends of November and the Festa del Tartufo Marzuolo held in March being the main events dedicated to the precious tuber. In San Giovanni d’Asso, you’ll also find the first Italian museum entirely dedicated to truffle, the Museo del Tartufo.

The drive: The fastest (but longer) route runs through the SP14 stretching south from San Giovanni d’Asso and then onto the SS2 road at Torrentieri. Buonconvento is about 20 minutes away.

4 Buonconvento

Loop back towards Siena to reach the charming Buonconvento, a Via Francigena stop embraced by its 14th-century walls. Here you can visit the Museo della Mezzadria Senese to learn about the history of the peasant communities that have long lived in the Crete Senesi area. From Buonconvento you can return to your starting point in just over half an hour, or continue the road trip south into the Val d’Orcia.

Terme di Petriolo | siete_vidas/shutterstock ©

MONTERIGGIONI’S MEDIEVAL FESTA

In its early days, the fortress of Monte-riggioni was seen as an unconquerable bulwark of the Sienese. The defensive structure’s mighty walls and the charcoal pits that were set on fire during sieges were considered the city state’s inaccessible final frontier. Things changed in 1554, when Captain Zeti betrayed his army and allowed the Florentines in.

Each July Monteriggioni pays tribute to its roots by hosting its Festa Medievale (monteriggionimedievale.com) – an open-air celebration of cultural heritage featuring a historical reenactment of the 1554 siege of the fortress, with a variety of concerts, live performances and street entertainment that evoke the medieval era, complete with costumed participants, music and traditional fare.

PetrioloTIME FROM SIENA: 35 MINS jpg

Sulphureous baths

You’ll start smelling the sulphur as you get closer to the public Terme di Petriolo, 33km south of Siena via the tree-lined roads that branch out from the SS223. People come here during the day and night to take a dip in the pools fed by 43°C waters surrounded by greenery – as you’ll notice from all the cars and campervans parked on the road by the entrance. These pools – known since Renaissance times for their curative properties – are free to access and open 24/7. You can also find the spa hotel Terme di Petriolo Resort in the area.

ChiantiTIME FROM SIENA: 30 MINS jpg

Chianti’s birth

As you’ve likely gathered, there is no shortage of castles in central Tuscany. But the Castello di Brolio, south of Gaiole in Chianti, is worthy of a special mention – this place has defined what it means to produce Chianti Classico. The neo-Gothic red brick structure derives its form from an 1835 refurbishment of the castle owned by the Ricasoli family since 1141, originally built as a Florentine defensive outpost bordering the Sienese territory. It was here that Baron Bettino Ricasoli (1809–80) developed the recipe for the modern-day Chianti, following years of experimentation with different grape varieties.

Until the late 19th century, local wines were made predominantly by fermenting Sangiovese grapes only. Baron Ricasoli began blending different grape varieties until he found the perfect formula – 70% Sangiovese, 20% Canaiolo, 10% Malvasia. The ‘Vino di Brolio’ was awarded its first gold medal at the International Exhibition in Paris in 1867, setting the standard for Chianti production that would become strictly regulated a century later.

Tours of the castle (from €30; booking required) include a visit to the Cappella di San Jacopo where the members of the Ricasoli family are buried, the small weaponry museum, and a tasting session of the Ricasoli’s current production.

Chianti-inspired sculptures

As you drive away from Siena, in the area of Pievasciana, make sure to stop at the Parco Sculture del Chianti (chiantisculpturepark.it; adult/child €10/5), a permanent open-air exhibition of – you guessed it – contemporary sculptures. Large-scale works by artists from 26 countries dot an area of approximately 7 hectares, merging with the idyllic landscape of the Sienese Chianti.

EVERYTHING RETRO

Fans of vintage cycling gear will want to make a stop at La Bottega (bottegagaiole.it) in Gaiole in Chianti. Run by passionate Emanuele Nepi, this store (open year-round) is a clear tribute to L’Eroica and the white roads that branch out from the town into the hills and vineyards of the region. Every detail of this store located in the birthplace of L’Eroica breathes old-school vibes – find clothing, accessories and bike parts from a past era to get ready for your next athletic endeavour, or ask Emanuele to tell you the story behind the race that draws thousands of cyclists to Gaiole every year.

EATING IN THE CHIANTI REGION

Enoteca Falorni: A top stop for wine lovers in Greve, offering a huge selection of labels to be paired with bistro dishes. 11am-7pm Mon-Fri & Sun, to 9.30pm Sat €€

Fuoripiazza: If a tasting isn’t enough, take a seat for a properly cooked Florentine steak with a glass of red to match. In Greve in Chianti. 10am-3pm & 6-10pm Tue-Sat €€

Lo Sfizio: Family-run spot in Gaiole in Chianti that makes simplicity its strength, with great pizza to fuel your travels. 10.30am-11pm Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat, to 3pm Thu €

Taverna Le Buone Cose: The name translates as ‘the good stuff’ and no name could be more apt for this traditional Tuscan trattoria. noon-2.30pm & 7-9.30pm Wed-Mon €€

La Gorgia Vino & Cucina: In Gaiole in Chianti, traditional flavours are creatively combined to build exquisite, seasonal dishes. noon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Fri-Wed €€

Il Borgo Machiavelli: Exiled from Florence, Niccolò Machiavelli once lived in this villa near San Casciano, now an elegant restaurant serving fine cuisine. 11.30am-11pm €€

Ristorante La Torre: This Michelin-starred restaurant in Tavarenelle Val di Pesa offers a creative menu of Italian dishes. 7.30-10pm Mon-Sat €€€

Rinuccio 1180: Sitting on the rooftop of the Antinori winery in San Casciano, Rinuccio is one of the best-known restaurants in the area – for both food and views. noon-4pm €€€

Help me Pick:

Chianti Wineries

Many vineyards scattered around Tuscany produce the ruby-red vino labelled Chianti, but only the strip of land between Florence and Siena can produce the coveted Chianti ‘Classico’ – a denomination that describes the wine’s history and regulates the production to maintain the highest standards. Made mostly of Sangiovese grapes, Chianti Classico is the best expression of this hilly territory, although you’ll discover that flavours vary greatly as you tour the castles and farms that dot the region.

Where to sip if you love...

Medieval Castles & Panoramic Views

Castello di Ama One of the Sienese Chianti historic estates, the Castello di Ama has acquired legendary status over the years. Tastings are on the expensive side starting at €65, attracting serious enthusiasts.

Castello di Meleto Standing on the outskirts of Gaiole since 1256, the Castello di Meleto offers estate tours and Chianti Classico tastings, with the option of staying the night in the castle’s rooms.

Castello di Albola Producing top Chianti Classico, this 12th-century Radda in Chianti castle sits atop one of the region’s hills, offering splendid views of the surroundings from its medieval fortification.

Castello di Verrazzano Offering an impressive view of the Greve Valley, the Castello di Verrazzano boasts over a thousand years of history. All their wines are organic and the harvest is done exclusively by hand.

Arne Beruldsen/shutterstock ©

Tradition with a Contemporary Touch

Antinori nel Chianti Classico The Antinori family has been involved in winemaking for over 600 years, since Giovanni di Piero Antinori joined the Arte Fiorentina dei Vinattieri (Florentine Winemakers’ Guild) in 1385, but you wouldn’t tell from the cutting-edge architecture of their headquarters developed in 2012 by Archea Associati.

Capannelle Most famous for its 50/50, made in collaboration with Montepulciano’s Avignonesi winery, and its Solare wines, Capannelle is a worthy stop to taste the region’s experimental side.

Women-run Wineries

Fattoria Cigliano di Sopra Run by Maddalena Fucile, Fattoria Cigliano di Sopra excellently interprets the territory of San Casciano Val di Pesa. The violet and cherry notes of their Sangiovese make an immediate, easy-drinking wine. Two apartments (with pools) are available to stay in for the night.

I Fabbri From Lamole, in Greve in Chianti, Susanna Grassi’s Chianti Classico has a floral complexity unattainable elsewhere, with red-fruit notes that almost make you think you’re drinking an elegant pinot noir. Book a tasting session in the old barn of this family-run winery.

Fattoria Pomona Monica Raspi represents the wines of Castellina in Chianti, where the fruitiness of the western Chianti Classico region blends with the herbaceous, balsamic notes of the Radda hills. Book a tasting and Monica will take you on a hike through the vineyards to see where her wines are born.

HOW TO

When to go Most wineries are open year-round, although the best time to visit is between spring and autumn.

Book ahead Some wineries will accept walk-ins, but it’s always better to call in advance to book a tasting session.

Eating and sleeping Wine tastings usually come with a light snack; larger wineries often have restaurants and rooms where you can spend the night.

Budget Tasting sessions typically start at around €20 and go up to €80 for more renowned labels. In the rare cases when tastings are free, you are expected to buy a few bottles.

Touring the Chianti region

The Chianti region is not well served by public transport. Buses do run to all the towns between Florence and Siena, departing from both cities, but the wineries are often set away from urban centres. The best way to tour the Chianti region is with your own vehicle. If you don’t have a designated driver and would rather not spit the wine after tasting it, you can opt to stay in one of the many wineries that have an agriturismo (farm stay) and spend the night in the countryside after the tasting. Alternatively, you could rent an electric bike in either Greve in Chianti or Gaiole in Chianti and cycle to visit the wineries found around the towns. Officina Ramuzzi (ramuzzi.com) in Greve in Chianti and Il Biciclettaio (bicyclesinchianti.com) in Gaiole in Chianti rent electric mountain bikes from €45 per day. Keep in mind that the legal blood alcohol limit for drivers is 0.5g/L (0.05%) in Italy. In Florence, most tour agencies offer their own version of a Chianti tour – it’s often a mass tourism affair, which can include a vespa ride, a horse ride, a lunch or a visit to a nearby historic town. Shop around to see what suits you best.

ROAD TRIP
Driving the Via Chiantigiana

Running from Florence to Siena, the Strada Statale 222, better known as Via Chiantigiana, cuts through the whole of the Chianti region north to south, twisting among vineyard-covered hills, medieval fortifications, rustic farmhouses and the ever-present churches – in short, a quintessential Tuscan road trip.

Volpaia | Claudio Quaglia/shutterstock ©

1 Greve in Chianti

As you depart Florence, the road gently winds through the Tuscan countryside, leading you to the town of Greve in Chianti. The town square, Piazza Matteotti, greets you with its quaint arcades and the city’s Museo del Vino, your introduction to Tuscany’s best-known wine and its history. At Enoteca Falorni, you can indulge in a taste of the region’s Chianti labels, paired with the flavours rooted in these hills.

The drive: The drive south from Greve to Panzano takes about 10 minutes. With some time on your hands, consider a detour to Badia a Passignano.

2 Panzano in Chianti

Ancient olive groves and verdant vineyards stretch out on either side of the road together as you continue to Panzano. The silhouette of its historic castle, standing at 498m altitude, emerges as you get closer, dominating the wine country below. For lunch stop at the famed Antica Macelleria Cecchini, a Tuscan institution when it comes to Florentine steak. Nearby, the Pieve di San Leolino, a 10th-century church, houses precious artworks by Giovanni della Robbia.

The drive: Exit the province of Florence and enter Sienese territory by continuing onward on the Via Chiantigiana.

3 Radda in Chianti

As you wander through Radda’s narrow streets, you’ll encounter the 14th-century Chiesa di San Niccolò and the 15th-century Palazzo del Podestà, the two architectural landmarks of this Chianti hamlet. At the Casa del Chianti Classico, housed in the 18th-century convent of Santa Maria al Prato, you’ll have a chance to delve deeper into the world of Chianti wines and admire the vineyards stretching to the horizon.

The drive: From Radda, temporarily abandon the Via Chiantigiana and take the winding road that climbs to Volpaia on your left.

4 Volpaia

At Volpaia, the medieval village remains intact, its cobbled streets and ancient buildings offering a glimpse into the ancient roots of the Chianti region. The hamlet’s fortification, Castello di Volpaia, dates back to 1172 when it was erected as a military outpost to protect Florence from Siena’s attacks. Today you can book a guided tour of the historic wine cellars, learning the strict process of winemaking that has been perfected over centuries.

The drive: Return to the Via Chiantigiana using the same road, then turn left and drive on to Castellina in Chianti.

5 Castellina in Chianti

The town’s unique defensive walkway, Via delle Volte, was designed by none other than Filippo Brunelleschi. Designed to withstand gunpowder explosions, its tunnel-like passages will eventually take you to the Museo Archeologico del Chianti Senese, where artefacts excavated from nearby archaeological sites of Montecalvario and Fonterutoli show traces of the lost Etruscan civilisation in the Chianti area from the 7th and 6th century BCE. As you continue further, Siena becomes visible in the distance – this is the final step of your Chianti journey.

CYCLING TOUR
A Heroic Bike Ride

Explore the white roads of the Sienese Chianti on two wheels following part of the legendary Eroica route. The first edition of the Eroica cycling race took place in 1997. Today over 7000 athletes tackle 3700m of elevation gain on vintage bikes along the Chianti’s dirt roads. While the full route stretches for 209km (and racers take an average of 15 hours to complete it), this intermediate itinerary will cover approximately 145km split over two or three days. There are many ups and downs; an e-bike is recommended unless you are an experienced cyclist.

Vineyards, Castello di Brolio | Umomos/shutterstock ©

1 Castello di Brolio

Get your rental bike (or e-bike) at Il Biciclettaio in Gaiole in Chianti and begin your journey at the official starting point of the Eroica race. Take the Strada Provinciale di Montevarchi and ride south until you see the sign pointing to Castello di Brolio. Here you’ll have to tackle the steep climb up to the castle. After that, a white road stretches downhill amid the cypress trees, offering great views of the fortification and the surrounding vineyards.

The ride: After 3km of white gravel road you are back on asphalt. Continue south in the direction of Siena, passing via the hamlet of Pianella.

2 Siena

Continue cycling on the Strada Provinciale di Montevarchi past the town of Pianella, then take a left to access the white road known as Strada di Montechiaro. Ride on the gravel for approximately 3km to find yourself near Pieve a Bozzone. In a short time you’ll see Siena’s towering Torre del Mangia appear in the distance.

The ride: Ride downhill through the outskirts of Siena until you reach the unpaved Strada Provinciale di Murlo on your right. Continue onwards to Radi.

3 Murlo

After you’ve crossed the busy centre of Siena the traffic slows down and a long flat ride on the unpaved road that leads to Murlo awaits. Stop for lunch in the hamlet of Radi, where you can refuel with a plate of pici at Sapori di Radi, a family-run trattoria with garden seating. Next is Murlo, where you can stop for the night at the Albergo di Murlo – they have a covered garage for bikes and a great restaurant serving many southern Tuscan specialities.

The ride: Buonconvento is a short distance away. From there loop back towards Asciano following the Ombrone River.

4 Asciano

After a visit to Murlo’s castle, the tour continues through ancient borgo of Buonconvento. From there ride north to Serravalle and take the 10km white road leading to Asciano. Stop in the town’s square and fuel up at Il Forno delle Crete, before starting the final stretch.

The ride: The climb to Monte Sante Marie is a long, steady incline running for 6km, followed by a few ups and downs to Castelnuovo Berardenga. From there it’s a short ride back to Pianelle.

5 Gaiole in Chianti

You’ll find a familiar landscape after Castelnuovo Berardenga – you are back in the surroundings of Siena. The path returns to Pianella and then continues to Pievasciana, up to Radda in Chianti and finally to your starting point in Gaiole in Chianti, a historic trading centre surrounded by castles and medieval churches.

TOP EXPERIENCE
Abbazia di San Galgano

A 35-minute drive from Siena takes you to one of central Tuscany’s most impressive pieces of religious architecture, eminently emerging from the city’s hilly countryside. Spiritual inclinations are not necessary to admire the roofless Abbazia di San Galgano, one of Tuscany’s earliest Gothic churches built by Cistercian monks 800 years ago neighbouring the legendary Eremo di Montesiepi.

Abbazia di San Galgano | Robin Dessens/shutterstock ©

TOP TIPS

• From Siena, follow the Strada Provinciale 73 bis for 35 minutes. Turn right at the brown sign pointing to San Galgano.

• Tickets cost €5 and include access to the Museo Civico e Diocesano d’Arte Sacra in Chiusdino.

• There is a restaurant opposite the abbey and a small cafe near the Eremo di Montesiepi, but bring your own water, especially in summer when the heat can be scorching.

PRACTICALITIES

Scan this QR code to check the opening hours on San Galgano’s official website.

Eremo di Montesiepi & Tuscany’s Excalibur

Knight Galgano Guidotti (1148–81) first set foot in Montesiepi in the late 12th century to live the rest of his life in isolation, renouncing his violent past as the Archangel Michael commanded in a dream. The round, Romanesque chapel was completed in 1185 on the site where the warrior-turned-monk retired as a hermit.

A short hike will take you under its black and white dome where you’ll notice the hilt of a sword sticking out from a rock in front of the altar. Tale has it that Galgano inserted his sword in a stone as a symbolic gesture to demonstrate his willingness to give up arms. It is around the mythical weapon that the circular Eremo was built after the knight’s death. Mass is held every Sunday amid the frescoes of 14th-century Sienese painter Ambrogio Lorenzetti.

Abbazia di San Galgano

As miracles were attributed to Galgano during the canonisation process (1185), many pilgrims began reaching Montesiepi. In 1218 Cistercian monks began erecting a 1500-sq-metre abbey below the hermitage to cater for the saint’s growing fanbase. The project would take 70 years to complete. The abbey was abandoned in the 15th century, and in 1786 lightning struck the bell tower, which fell flat on the roof causing it to collapse. Today you can enter the open-air abbey to admire its Gothic architecture.

San Gimignano

MEDIEVAL ARCHITECTURE | RENAISSANCE ART | WINE TASTING

‘Finding words for what is in front of one’s eyes: how difficult it can be’ – this is what philosopher Walter Benjamin thought when seeing San Gimignano for the first time in 1925. Such words couldn’t be truer today. With a thousand years of history to tell, the UNESCO World Heritage city of San Gimignano is an astonishing testimony of life in the Middle Ages, so well preserved it became both a magnet for mass tourism and an easy victim of travel-writing clichés.

Still, no matter how numb to the charm of medieval hilltop towns literature has made you, San Gimignano stands to prove that experience can go well beyond expectations. Its invaluable architectural heritage is immediately visible as you get closer from either Florence or Siena – 14 towers once inhabited by warring feudal lords still stand in the core of the stone-built city whose ancient piazzas and palaces have managed to withstand the test of time despite conflicts, plagues, famines and social transformation.

While much has changed since pilgrims travelling along the Via Francigena entered the city gates to rest before continuing towards Rome, the city remains faithful to its roots, offering the chance to vividly imagine what living in a long-gone epoch was like.

HIGHLIGHTS

1Collegiata di Santa Maria Assunta

2Galleria Continua

3Palazzo Comunale

SIGHTS

4Chiesa di Sant’Agostino

5Rocca di Montestaffoli

6Torri dei Salvucci

SLEEPING

7Hotel L’Antico Pozzo

8Hotel Leon Bianco

9Le Undici Lune

EATING

10Cum Quibus

11Echoes Bruschetteria

12Gelateria Dondoli

13Il Ceppo Toscano

La Mangiatoia (see 9)

14Perucà

15San Martino 26

GETTING AROUND

San Gimignano is small enough to explore on foot, but getting there is a bit trickier compared to other cities, since there is no railway. To reach San Gimignano with public transport take a train from Siena to Poggibonsi (25 minutes), then catch bus 130, which will drop you by the southern edge of the historic centre in 20 minutes.

TOP TIP

The San Gimignano Pass (adult/child €13/10) is valid for 48 hours and gives access to the Palazzo Comunale, the Church of San Lorenzo in Ponte, the Collegiata di Santa Maria Assunta and the Museo d’Arte Sacra.

Palace of Power

Medieval art in the seat of the podestà

Piazza del Duomo’s Palazzo Comunale, also known as Palazzo del Popolo, housed the seat of the city’s podestà (chief magistrate) in the Middle Ages. Today the palace is home to San Gimignano’s Civic Museum. Climb to the 1st floor to the Sala del Consiglio, also known as Sala Dante in memory of the great poet’s visit to San Gimignano in 1299, to find 13th- and 14th-century frescoes by Azzo di Masetto and Lippo Memmi. On the 2nd floor, enter the Camera del Podestà, frescoed by Memmo di Filippuccio with love scenes meant as moral advice to the podestà.

Benozzo Gozzoli’s Legacy

San Gimignano’s Renaissance masterpieces

Benozzo Gozzoli was perhaps the most important figure in the city’s 15th-century art world. On the northern edge of San Gimignano’s ancient centre, you can enter the Chiesa di Sant’Agostino to check out his cycle of frescoes Storie della Vita di Sant’Agostino and the painting San Sebastiano con Devoti (1464), next to Bartolo di Fredi’s Vita della Vergine (1375) and Sebastiano Mainardi’s San Gimignano che Benedice Tre Illustri Sangimignanesi (1487).

In 1465 Gozzoli also contributed to the biblical frescoes hiding behind the sober facade of the Collegiata di Santa Maria Assunta, the city’s Duomo built in 1148, adding to the existing collection of paintings by Taddeo di Bartolo, Federico Lemmi and Bartolo di Fredi. The Duomo is one of San Gimignano’s most important destinations when it comes to Renaissance art – besides Gozzoli’s work, here you’ll find the Cappella di Santa Fina adorned by Domenico Ghirlandaio’s Esequie di Santa Fina fresco (1475) and the Angelo Annunciante and Maria Vergine Annunciata wooden statues by Jacopo della Quercia (1426).

Modern Art Sights

Discover the contemporary side of the medieval town

Your art tour of San Gimignano can continue through the Galleria Continua (galleriacontinua.com), a private exhibition space that’s become one of Tuscany’s landmarks in the contemporary art world. Operating since 1990 in a former theatre, the Galleria Continua has hosted works by international artists such as Ai Weiwei, Anish Kapoor and Kiki Smith.

SAN GIMIGNANO’S TWIN TOWERS

Named after San Gimignano’s most powerful Guelph family, the Torri dei Salvucci (Salvucci Towers) in Piazza delle Erbe dominate the skyline. The Salvucci had acquired enormous wealth in the 13th century thanks to trade and banking activities, and when they acquired the towers from the Mangeri family, they decided to increase their height beyond the legal limit of 51m (the height of Torre Rognosa) to establish their supremacy over the city. It was a short-lived effort – the Salvucci would eventually be forced to shorten their towers to the maximum height allowed. Today, one of the towers – the Torre Maggiore (torresalvucci.it) – houses a heritage hotel.

A Sip of Vernaccia

Taste San Gimignano’s pioneering white wine

The vineyard-covered hills surrounding the fortified city produce the famed Vernaccia – a delicate, straw-yellow white wine known for its almond-y aftertaste. San Gimignano’s Vernaccia, whose origins date back to the 13th century, was the first Italian wine to receive the Protected Denomination of Origin (DOC) label in 1966, a quality certification meant to preserve regional winemaking traditions. To learn all about Vernaccia, walk towards the Rocca di Montestaffoli – in the adjoining villa you’ll find the Vernaccia di San Gimignano Wine Experience (wineexperience.vernacciasangimignano.it), a space managed by the local Vernaccia Consortium where you can taste and compare the different varieties of the local vino (from €30), after visiting the interactive museum tracing the history and methods of local wine production.

San Gimignano in the Middle Ages

Explore a miniature reproduction of the medieval town

While the city has managed to maintain much of its medieval character intact over the centuries, it would be deceiving to say that nothing has changed. To learn how San Gimignano used to look in its golden age, enter the little San Gimignano 1300 museum, where a handmade ceramic 1:100 scale reproduction of the city as it stood in the 14th century allows you to picture what the Via Francigena pilgrims saw once they reached San Gimignano after weeks on the road.

EATING IN SAN GIMIGNANO

Gelateria Dondoli: This award-winning gelateria is the reason many travel to San Gimignano. Try their signature Crema di Santa Fina. 9am-10.30pm €

Echoes Bruschetteria: As the name suggests, Echoes specialises in (huge, tasty) bruschette. noon-3pm Tue, noon-3pm & 7-9pm Thu-Mon €

Perucà: With its vaulted ceilings, exposed brick and loyalty to old Tuscan recipes, Perucà is always a safe bet. noon-2.30pm & 7-9.30pm Fri-Wed €€

Il Ceppo Toscano: Behind an unassuming entrance, this cosy spot is known for its meat-heavy menu. noon-2.30pm & 7-9.30pm Tue-Sun €€

La Mangiatoia: Running for nearly 50 years, La Mangiatoia has refined the art of cooking classics. 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm Wed-Mon €€

Chiribiri: Small, family-run trattoria serving generous portions of Tuscan classics at fair prices. 11am-3pm & 7-11pm €€

San Martino 26: This relaxed fine-diner offers an escape from crowds and tradition. Try a tasting menu. noon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Fri-Tue €€€

Cum Quibus: This sophisticated fine-dining Tuscan restaurant draws people from all over. 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm Fri-Tue €€€

Beyond San Gimignano

More medieval history awaits as you leave San Gimignano behind: exit the city to find settlements dating as far back as the Etruscan era, with exposed traces to show.

As you continue your trip towards the coast, you’ll soon exit the Sienese province to enter Pisa’s. One of Tuscany’s most revered historic sites awaits – Volterra sits beyond the lush forests of the Riserva Naturale di Castelvecchio, offering an exceptional combination of archaeological findings that form a dialogue between the different epochs that have contributed to the development of this captivating city inhabited since Etruscan times. And if rather than driving west you choose to go north of San Gimignano, you’ll return to Florentine lands by following the Elsa river, through often neglected towns that have given birth to some of Tuscany’s greatest minds.

GETTING AROUND

Bus 31 runs from San Gimignano’s Piazzale Montemaggio to Volterra in about an hour. The city is not well connected to Siena – it’s easier to get there with public transport from Pisa. The Volterra Card (€13) includes entrance to all of Volterra’s historic sites and museums for 72 hours. It can be purchased in any ticket office in the city. A regional train runs directly to Certaldo from both Florence and Siena. You’ll arrive at lower Certaldo’s station; from there it’s a short walk to the cable car that takes you up to the medieval town.

VolterraTIME FROM SAN GIMIGNANO: 40 MINS jpg

Etruscan roots

Etruscan, Roman, medieval and Renaissance elements combine to form the urban core of ancient Volterra, the awe-inspiring city whose early development is due to the wealth of natural resources found in its vicinity. Etruscans were already mining silver, copper and lead from the nearby Colline Metallifere in the 5th century BCE, but it was the salt – a mineral essential for food preservation in pre-industrial societies – extracted from Volterra’s basins that made the city a dominant commercial power in the region.

A chronological tour of Volterra’s historic sites starts from the outskirts of the city centre. Volterra’s Etruscan roots crop up above ground in the Parco Archeologico Enrico Fiumi, where remnants of two temples dating back to the 3rd and 2nd centuries BCE can still be seen. An even better place to learn about the early days of the city is the Museo Etrusco Mario Guarnacci, one of Italy’s most important collections of Etruscan artefacts and in operation since the late 18th century. Archaeological findings – including the impressive collection of over 600 funerary urns – are spread across three floors in the Palazzo Desideri Tanbassi.

Discover ruins of the Roman era

A step forward in time leads to the Roman amphiteatre believed to have been built in the end of the 1st century CE. Rediscovered by local archaeologist Enrico Fiumi in the 1950s, the Teatro Romano was once able to host nearly 2000 spectators. Climb atop the Mura del Mandorlo for a panoramic view of the site.

Tuscany’s oldest municipal palace

As you enter the city centre you’ll notice that the imprint is clearly medieval. Piazza dei Priori marks Volterra’s heart, overshadowed by the imposing Palazzo dei Priori, Tuscany’s oldest municipal palace built between 1208 and 1254. Steps away is the ever-present Duomo. Volterra’s main church, built in 1120, may not look like much from the outside, but its interior hides 15 chapels adorned with frescoes and monuments by artists like Giovanni della Robbia, Benozzo Gozzoli and Pieter de Witte.

Masters of alabaster

Besides its archaeological wonders, Volterra is well known for its artisanal heritage. Since Etruscan times alabaster carving has played a key role in shaping the city’s character and continues to do so today, as you can learn at the Ecomuseo dell’Alabastro (adult/child €10/8). Many workshops dotting the city centre keep the tradition alive and make Volterra a great destination for those seeking one of the elegant white sculptures produced in the city. Visit Alab’arte, Rossi Alabaster, Romano Bianchi or Alabastri Pecchioni (if unique musical instruments is what you’re looking for) to find one-of-a-kind artworks.

Museo Etrusco Mario Guarnacci | marcobrivio.gallery/shutterstock ©

A MEDICEAN PRISON

Dominating the skyline just outside Volterra’s old city is the Fortezza Medicea, an architectural marvel and the most impressive remnant of the Renaissance era in the region.

The imposing fortress is divided into two distinct sections: the Rocca Vecchia, constructed in 1343, and the Rocca Nuova, which was completed in 1475 under the orders of Lorenzo the Magnificent after Volterra fell under Florentine rule. Throughout the centuries, the fortress has served a variety of purposes, but since its construction, it has predominantly been used as a prison. The historic site continues to serve this function today and is, therefore, not accessible to visitors – as the surrounding fences and barbed wire clearly communicate.

EATING IN VOLTERRA

La Sosta del Priore: Satisfying Tuscan street food is served in this little sandwich shop steps away from Piazza dei Priori. 11.30am-9pm €

Life Bistrot: A vegan and gluten-free menu of creative dishes is prepared with organic ingredients. 11.30am-3.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm Fri-Wed €€

Enoteca del Duca: Take a seat in this charming palace-garden space and enjoy the Tuscan cuisine. noon-3pm & 7-10pm Thu-Tue €€€

L’Isola del Gusto: The city’s most famous gelateria serves artisanal scoops from its hole-in-the-wall shop. 11am-11.30pm €

TOP EXPERIENCE
Certaldo Alto

Just outside the borders of Siena’s province, picturesque Certaldo is one of the Val d’Elsa’s towns to have best preserved its historic architecture. Take the cable car up to the medieval town to visit the palatial residence of the Alberti counts and the home of one of Italy’s most prominent literary figures, with incredible views to match the architecture.

Via Giovanni Boccaccio, Certaldo Alto | Irina Crick/shutterstock ©

DON’T MISS

Palazzo Pretorio

Casa Boccaccio

Tabernacolo dei Giustiziati

Boccaccio’s tomb

Giovanni della Robbia’s ceramics

Museo del Chiodo

PRACTICALITIES

Scan this QR code for more information about Certaldo’s history and sights on the town’s official tourism website.

Palazzo Pretorio

The origins of Palazzo Pretorio are linked to the Alberti dynasty, which commissioned its construction as early as the 13th century when it gained control of Certaldo’s territory. The castle-like palace expanded after falling under Florentine rule in the 15th century. In 1542 the palace had 20 rooms: private and meeting rooms for the vicar, clocktower, rooms for the servants, kitchen, stable and prisons. Enter the premises to tour the halls of the medieval palace, once Certaldo’s most prestigious residence. Besides seeing the archaeological remains found in the area, you can access the Sala delle Udienze where trials took place in the 15th century, the underground prison cells and the Justice Museum, the chamber where ‘justice’ was applied through torture.

Casa Boccaccio

Certaldo’s most famous citizen is by far Giovanni Boccaccio, author of the Decameron and one of the key literary figures of the 14th century, who was born here in 1313. A pioneering work of prose fiction, the Decameron is considered one of Italy’s most important literary works for its vivid portrayal of life during the time of the Black Death. In Casa Boccaccio, the little house-museum dedicated to the man of letters and reconstructed after WWII, you’ll find a library housing a vast collection of rare editions of the Decameron, including volumes dating as far back as 1550 and old translations in Latvian, Georgian, Russian and many other languages. A great view all the way to the Alpi Apuane on the surrounding countryside awaits from the rooftop.

Chiesa dei Santi Tommaso e Prospero

The oldest church in upper Certaldo, Chiesa dei Santi Tommaso e Prospero was presumably built in the early 13th century. It contains two restored works by anonymous local painters dating back to the 14th and 15th centuries, and a large Tabernacolo dei Giustiziati, depicting convicts about to be executed, created by Benozzo Gozzoli in 1464.

Benozzo Gozzoli’s Masterpieces

Bordering Certaldo further north along the Elsa river is the town of Castelfiorentino. It’s worth stopping here to pay a visit to the Museo BEGO, a modern-looking space dedicated to the work of Renaissance artist Benozzo Gozzoli. The museum houses two (restored) monumental tabernacles that Benozzo Gozzoli painted with his sons Francesco and Alesso in Castelfiorentino in 1484 and 1491.

Chiesa dei Santi Jacopo e Filippo

Chiesa dei Santi Jacopo e Filippo, Certaldo’s main religious structure, houses the tomb of Giovanni Boccaccio, visible right in the heart of the nave. A glazed ceramic piece by Giovanni della Robbia, titled Madonna della Neve tra San Bartolomeo e San Domenico (1520), adorns the interior, also home of the remains of Beata Giulia, a 14th-century nun who was beatified for saving a child from a burning building.

Museo di Arte Sacra

Next to the Chiesa dei Santi Jacopo e Filippo is the Augustinian convent housing the local Museo di Arte Sacra, showcasing a small collection of religious art, furniture and vestments dating as far back as the 12th century.

TOP TIPS

• Buy a single ticket (adult/child €7/5) at Palazzo Pretorio to access the palace, the Museo d’Arte Sacra and Casa Boccaccio. Add €1 to visit the Museo del Chiodo.

• The cable car runs up and down Certaldo Alta every 15 minutes. From 15 April to 15 October it operates between 7.30am and 1am; during the rest of the year it stops at 7.30pm. Tickets are €1, payable by contactless card.

• Certaldo pays tribute to its roots in July with the Mercantia Festival (mercantiacertaldo.it), when street performers, musicians and crafts vendors fill the town’s cobbled streets during three consecutive nights.

Museo del Chiodo

The quirky little museum dedicated to iron nails was set up by local artisan Giancarlo Masini, also known as Beppe Chiodo (Beppe Nail), in 1991 and showcases a collection of hundreds (thousands?) of nails of all shapes and sizes, honouring their central role in crafts of the past, from carpentry to blacksmithing.

Gambassi TermeTIME FROM SAN GIMIGNANO: 3HRS jpg

Three days on the Via Francigena

A great way to explore the surroundings of San Gimignano is by walking a section of the Via Francigena, the ancient pilgrim route running from Canterbury to Rome and eventually Jerusalem. An ideal three-day itinerary through central Tuscany begins in San Miniato, easily reached by train from Florence or Pisa, making your first stop approximately six hours later in Gambassi Terme, passing by the stone-built Pieve di Santa Maria Assunta a Chianni.

After recharging your batteries at the Terme della Via Francigena (termedigambassi.com), an easy three-hour hike through vineyards and olive trees will lead to towering San Gimignano. From here one of the most picturesque sections of the Via Francigena begins: the 31km stretch leading to Monteriggioni travels by the enchanting Abbazia di Santa Maria Assunta a Conèo, before reaching the gates of the hilltop fortification. If time allows, continue all the way to Siena (and why not Rome, and Bari and the Holy Land…?).

Note that the Via Francigena is best walked during late springtime, when there’s likely to be sunshine and the temperatures are still bearable. Guesthouses, agriturismi (farm stays), campgrounds and hotels are available along the way, with prices starting at about €30 per night. You will also find pilgrim hostels, churches and guesthouses that offer accommodation in exchange for a donation. Maps and detailed itineraries are available at regione.toscana.it/via-francigena and viefrancigene.org.

Gambassi Terme | lorenza62/shutterstock ©

VIA FRANCIGENA BY BIKE

Most people who set out to tackle the Via Francigena choose to do so on foot, but the majority of the Tuscan section of the pilgrim route can be done by mountain bike as well. Most of the itinerary follows a wide path that runs around mountains. However, some sections can be difficult to cycle through due to uneven ground and steep ascents, especially if you’re bikepacking with heavy luggage. Some detours for cyclists have been added in the itinerary and it is possible to cross the whole region on two wheels. The cycling route is signposted every 300m to 500m with blue and white markings. Maps and GPS tracks are available at viefrancigene.org.

Pienza

RENAISSANCE UTOPIA | CHEESE | PANORAMAS

Nestled in the cypress-dotted landscapes of the Val d’Orcia UNESCO World Heritage Site, Pienza is not your usual borgo dotting the Tuscan countryside. Built from scratch during the late 15th century following the utopian vision of Enea Silvio Piccolomini (1405–64), a humanist born in nearby Corsignano and who became Pope Pius II in 1458, Pienza was created to be the ‘ideal Renaissance city’. Architect Bernardo Rossellino, a student of Leon Battista Alberti, undertook the task of designing a new urban plan that would please Pope Pius II, adopting the neoclassical style in vogue at the time. The stone buildings typically seen in rural Tuscany are here replaced by stately palaces adorned with marble finishes and mysterious symbolism, forming a harmonious composition of colours and forms emerging from the lush countryside. A little more than 2000 people live in Pienza today, but many more come through, attracted by the hamlet’s unique atmosphere and its famous pecorino (sheep’s milk cheese).

Pienza’s pecorino | wjarek/shutterstock ©

HIGHLIGHTS

1Cattedrale dell’Assunta

2Museo Diocesano

3Palazzo Piccolomini

SLEEPING

4La Bandita Townhouse

5La Bellavita

EATING

6Enoteca Marusco e Maria

7La Taverna del Pecorino

8Osteria Sette di Vino

9Trattoria Latte di Luna

GETTING AROUND

Pienza is tiny. It’s main avenue stretches for less than 1km from Porta al Murello, leading directly to the central square where all the main sights are found. You can’t get lost. To get to Pienza by public transport, take bus 57P from Siena to San Quirico d’Orcia, then bus 112 to Pienza. If you are arriving by car, there is a parking space 500m north of the city centre, costing €2 per hour. Given that the town is so small, you can also find parking a bit further away free of charge.

TOP TIP

One kilometre from central Pienza is one of the few pre-Renaissance structures still standing in the city. The Romanesque Pieve di Corsignano, where Enea Silvio Piccolomini was baptised, is known to have existed since at least the 8th century. Enter to see the original font where he was baptised.

Flavour-packed Pecorino

Taste Pienza’s delicacy

Matured for at least 90 days in oak barrels previously used to age wine, Pienza’s pecorino is a must try, especially after a long journey on Val d’Orcia’s twisting roads. Made from sheep’s milk, the food product Pienza is most proud of comes in many different varieties and is best enjoyed over an indulgent plate of pici – the strictly hand-rolled pasta believed (by locals, at least) to be spaghetti’s ancestor. Pici and pecorino can be enjoyed in most restaurants around town, but no celebration of the barrique-aged cheese beats the Fiera del Cacio. Held in early September, Pienza’s cheese festival sees the whole town gather around Piazza Pio II to cheer for historic neighbourhoods competing at the Palio del Cacio Fuso, a traditional game where participants compete by rolling wheels of cheese around a wooden spindle placed in the middle of the square.

EATING IN PIENZA: TRATTORIE

La Taverna del Pecorino: For a gourmet tasting of all the different varieties of Pienza’s pecorino, stop at this little eatery and order a lavish tray. 9.30am-7pm €

Enoteca Marusco e Maria: Different interpretations of Pienza’s intense cheese can be tasted next to locally produced wines. 9.30am-1pm & 2.30-7pm €€

Trattoria Latte di Luna: Romantic atmosphere in the heart of the historic centre. It’s a great spot to try authentic Val d’Orcia cuisine beyond cheese. 11.30am-4pm Wed-Mon €€

Sette di Vino: A checkered tablecloth kind of trattoria, serving genuine Tuscan fare on the tables scattered on Piazza di Spagna. noon-2pm & 7.30-9pm Thu-Tue €€

TOP EXPERIENCE
Urban Utopia

Completed in only three years between 1459 and 1462 by Bernardo Rossellino, the finely carved travertine facades, ionic stone columns and opulent palaces that compose Pienza’s historic heart are compressed in the small area surrounding Piazza Pio II, steps away from the hamlet’s gate at Porta al Murello.

Cattedrale dell’Assunta | Frank Bach/shutterstock ©

TOP TIP

• The Pienza Pass (€12) is valid for 48 hours and gives access to the city’s four main sights: Palazzo Piccolomini, the Duomo, the crypt and Palazzo Borgia. Buy online at pienzacittadiluce.it.

PRACTICALITIES

Scan this QR code for more information on what to see in Pienza’s surroundings as well as the broader Val d’Orcia.

Cattedrale dell’Assunta

The striking Cattedrale dell’Assunta (the Duomo), flanked by the slender white bell tower, dominates the square. Look up to see the coat of arms of the Piccolomini family embedded in the tympanum; look down to notice the grid formed by travertine stripes on the square – twice a year the church’s shadow fills the piazza’s nine rectangles exactly, marking the spring and autumn equinoxes as once indicated on the Julian calendar. The solemn interior showcases part of Piccolomini’s personal art collection, including works by Sienese greats such as Il Vecchietta and Giovanni di Paolo.

Palazzo Borgia

More art is found in the 11 halls of the Museo Diocesano housed inside Palazzo Borgia (or Palazzo Vescovile), the palace Pope Pius II donated to Cardinal Borgia. Exhibits include a collection of Sienese 14th-century paintings next to rare tapestries, goldwork and sacred vestments dating back to the Middle Ages.

Palazzo Piccolomini

Facing the cathedral is Palazzo Piccolomini, the former summer residence of the Pope. It hides an elegant Italian garden opening up to a beautiful view on the Monte Amiata. Designed by architect Bernardo Rossellino to form a prime example of Renaissance harmony, the palace still houses the original furniture used by the Piccolomini family.

Beyond Pienza

Take a drive through the enthralling landscapes of the Val d’Orcia and its frame-worthy surroundings.

Few places are considered as quintessentially Tuscan as the cypress-lined roads embracing the hilly Val d’Orcia landscapes. Dreamy farmhouses and stone-built hamlets surrounded by hay bales, sunflowers and vineyards are part of the enchanting composition that has formed the backdrop of numerous Hollywood movies, including Anthony Minghella’s The English Patient (1997) and Ridley Scott’s The Gladiator (2000), which led to the area becoming a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004. Despite the increased tourist flow of recent years, the Val d’Orcia remains rooted to its rural traditions, without skimping on world-class wine-tasting opportunities and relaxing spa breaks by its natural hot springs.

GETTING AROUND

Buses connect Siena with most towns in the Val d’Orcia, but you’ll have to be prepared to wait and change often to get to your destination, especially if it’s one of the smaller urban centres. Driving your own vehicle is the best way to get around and make the most out of the scenic panoramas that are found between urban centres.

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A stroll through the Horti Leonini

Entering the 15th-century walls of San Quirico d’Orcia means stepping back into an era of Romanesque architecture, stone-built churches and narrow lanes crisscrossing houses perched on the hill’s sloping surface. Different from other hamlets in the area, the medieval atmosphere here is complemented by the elegant Horti Leonini, designed by architect Diomede Leoni – a good friend of Michelangelo – in 1580, which occupy a large share of the historic centre. Unlike most other Renaissance gardens, the Horti Leonini don’t extend from a stately residence, but were placed within the city walls to offer a green, meditative space for the aristocratic visitors who would reach San Quirico after a long journey. The garden is split into two sections – a wild, holm oak forest on the western side and a geometrical Italian garden surrounding a 1688 statue of Cosimo III de’ Medici. Each year the public garden becomes an open-air contemporary art gallery during the Forme nel Verde (formenelverde.com) initiative, which gathers the works of emerging artists from Italy’s major art academies and dots them around San Quirico’s green lung from July to November.

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A taste of Vino Nobile

Montepulciano’s ‘noble’ wine is made predominantly with Sangiovese grapes and aged for a minimum of two years (of which at least one is in wood). Dozens of wineries and enoteche are scattered around Montepulciano, offering the opportunity to taste the local Vino Nobile and other varieties of traditional wine. Enter the old city through the 13th-century Porta a Prato gate near the Giardino di Poggiofanti and in a few steps you’ll reach the Cantina Ercolani – a great place to start learning about Montepulciano’s wine culture. The store features an Underground City museum showing barrel-filled ancient cellars expanding below the city’s historic palaces. Not far, is the Cantina de’ Ricci, another enoteca housed in the 1534 Ricci family palace where exposed-brick cellars – known as ‘the cathedral’ – extend below ground.

Montepulciano | StevanZZ/shutterstock ©

GIARDINO LA FOCE

An important garden in Sienese province is found at the 15th-century Villa La Foce (open March to November), near Chianciano Terme. Designed by British landscape architect Cecil Pinsent, this Italian garden echoes opulence with each and every detail, from the carefully curated symmetries created by plant sculptures to the travertine staircase leading to a terrace with mesmerising views of the Val d’Orcia and the Monte Amiata. The owners of Villa La Foce organise the Incontri in Terre di Siena Festival (itslafoce.org) – a series of open-air classical music performances in the Val d’Orcia’s main squares in July.

EATING IN VAL D’ORCIA: RESTAURANTS

Dopolavoro La Foce: The terrace here, originally built to gather workers after a long day in the fields, has been turned into a gourmet lunch spot. noon-3pm & 7-10pm €€

Osteria di Porta al Cassero: All the Val d’Orcia classics can be found on the menu of this family-run restaurant in Montalcino. 12.15-2.30pm & 7.15-9.30pm Thu-Tue €€

Fonte alla Vena: Choose from a wide selection of seasonal dishes served on the terrace of this beautiful San Quirico d’Orcia restaurant. 12.15-2.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm Wed-Sun €€

Trattoria Toscana al Vecchio Forno: Genuine comfort food served in a friendly yet refined setting amid the greenery in San Quirico d’Orcia. noon-3pm & 7-10pm €€

Visit the Avignonesi Winery

Outside the city walls, the Avignonesi Winery offers an excellent wine-tasting experience. Next to their biodynamic Vino Nobile you’ll be able to taste their renowned Occhio di Pernice Vin Santo – a ‘holy’ wine aged for 10 years, whose origins are rooted in the Renaissance. Just a thing to keep in mind when in Montepulciano – make sure not to confuse the city’s Vino Nobile with the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wine. The blasphemous comparison may cause locals more pain than the equipment found at the local Torture Museum.

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Brunello’s temple

An irregular fortress dating back to 1361 appears from the distance as you start climbing the hill where Montalcino’s historic centre develops. Carrying the Medici’s coat of arms – the famous six-ball emblem – with its angular towers, the defensive structure is one of the most imposing in central Tuscany. However, it’s not for medieval architecture that most people reach this little town of 5000. Montalcino is most famous for its Brunello, one of the world’s most sought after wines, the rarest vintages of which sell for thousands of euros. Compared to other Italian wines, the history of the Brunello di Montalcino is relatively recent, as you’ll learn at the Tempio del Brunello interactive museum, found inside the Sant’Agostino complex in the heart of the city. The fame of this wine is much owed to the Biondi Santi family, who began diversifying their winemaking in the late 1800s, experimenting with different ageing processes and selected grapes. Today Brunello production is strictly regulated – only local Sangiovese grapes can be used and the wine, which can only be released on the market five years after harvest, has to age a minimum of two years in oak.

BRAVìO DELLE BOTTI

In Montepulciano, wooden barrels are not just for ageing wine. On the last Sunday of August, the town comes alive as it pays tribute to its patron saint, St John the Baptist, with a unique and unlikely competition known as the Bravìo delle Botti. This sporting event sees the city’s eight contrade (districts) challenge each other in rolling massive 80kg wine barrels through the narrow, winding, uphill streets of the town, racing towards the finish line at Piazza Grande, Montepulciano’s central square. The winners of the race are rewarded with the bravìo, a cloth painted with the image of St John, symbolising honour and victory.

EATING IN MONTEPULCIANO: OSTERIE & TRATTORIE

Osteria Acquacheta: A local no-frills institution, especially recommended for those looking to bite into a thick, rare Chianina T-bone steak. 12.30-3pm & 7.30-10.30pm Thu-Mon €€

La Dogana: This elegant countryside enoteca-restaurant, 13km east of the city, overlooks hills and cypress trees. 7.30-9.30pm Mon & Wed, 12.30-3.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm Thu-Sun €€

Caffè Poliziano: Named after the famed 15th-century scholar, this old-world cafe with great views is the ideal stop for a relaxing coffee or aperitivo break. 7.30am-10pm €

La Grotta: Housed inside a 16th-century building near the church of San Biagio, La Grotta serves modern takes on Tuscan recipes. noon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Thu-Tue €€

Brunello tastings

Tasting opportunities abound both inside and outside the fortress. Montalcino’s castle houses the Enoteca la Fortezza, a great place to start your Brunello journey, learning all about the local wine varieties. The vineyard-covered area surrounding the town is home to dozens of wineries, ranging from small, family-run operations to established brands with a global reach. Stop by at the little NostraVita, where great wine produced in limited quantities comes with a side of rotating art exhibitions, or visit the historic Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona winery, which has been making exceptional vino from its Castelnuovo dell’Abate palace since the 17th century. If your thirst is still not quenched, continue for a vertical tasting of six Brunello di Montalcino vintages at the Casato Prime Donne, the first Italian winery run exclusively by women, founded by local entrepreneur Donatella Cinelli Colombini.

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Charlemagne’s Abbey, allegedly

Legend has it that Charlemagne founded the Abbazia di Sant’Antimo, 10km south of Montalcino, in 781 as he was travelling along the Via Francigena from Rome. According to the story, the emperor’s army was struck by the plague during the journey and in an attempt to stop the epidemic Charlemagne erected the abbey, hoping to receive God’s mercy. While no reliable proof of such events exists, Sant’Antimo stands as one of the most fascinating examples of Romanesque architecture in central Tuscany.

The Carolingian chapel and its cloister, dating back to the 12th century, emerge gloriously in an isolated valley dotted by centuries-old olive trees and embraced by Sangiovese vineyards that climb onto the nearby hills. Behind the graceful travertine exterior a peaceful, stone-clad hall leads to a wooden crucifix, and along the nave’s wall you can admire the frescoes attributed to Arezzo-born painter Spinello Aretino.

Fresco, Abbazia di Sant’Antimo | Maurizio De Mattei/shutterstock ©

THE MONASTIC PHARMACY

For centuries, the Benedictine monks of Sant’Antimo have been producing their own remedies and foods with ingredients cultivated in the monastery’s hilly surroundings, following recipes passed down through generations. Such tradition is kept alive to this day.

Before leaving Sant’Antimo pay a visit to the quaint cloister housing the monastic pharmacy, where herbal teas, jams, honey, ointments and beers (the recipe for which is a proudly preserved secret) are available for sale. The church occasionally organises workshops where you can learn about ancient herbal recipes used by monks for the preparation of both wellness products and digestive liqueurs. Check for future events at antimo.it.

DRINKING IN MONTALCINO: WINE TASTINGS

Fattoria dei Barbi: The Colombini family has been making Brunello, Chianti and Morellino di Scansano in this picturesque estate since the 18th century. 10am-5pm

Poggio Antico: Located on Montalcino’s highest hill, postcard-worthy Poggio Antico is a modern winery making Brunello and Supertuscan wines 10am-5pm

Sasso di Sole: Run by the passionate Terzuoli family, this award-winning winery on a 10-hectare property produces excellent Brunello and sparkling wine. 9am-6pm Mon-Sat

San Polo: Producing organic wines on the slopes of Montalcino, San Polo offers guided tasting sessions and vineyard tours starting from €45. 9am-6pm Mon-Fri

ROAD TRIP
Discovering the Val d’Orcia

Depending on when you decide to visit the Val d’Orcia, you will encounter completely different scenery. The bright-green hills turn golden as spring withdraws to make room for the hot summer; colours get warmer with the arrival of autumn and some lucky winter days might even offer the awe-inspiring spectacle that is the Val d’Orcia covered in snow. While spring and early summer tend to be the preferred seasons for most visitors, any time makes for a great tour.

Monticchiello | vivooo/shutterstock ©

1 San Quirico d’Orcia

Arriving from Buonconvento on the SS2 road, make a stop at what is perhaps the most photographed group of trees in all of Italy – known as the Cipressi di San Quirico d’Orcia, the trees have been orderly planted to form a circle in the middle of an isolated hill, making for a visually striking composition of shapes and shadows. From there, continue to the town of San Quirico d’Orcia, an important stop on the Via Francigena. Park your car to visit the Romanesque Collegiata dei Santi Quirico e Giulitta and take a stroll in the historic centre.

The drive: Take the SP46 and turn right after 7km to reach the Cappella di Vitaleta. Get back on the main road and head to Monticchiello via Pienza.

2 Monticchiello

Shortly after leaving San Quirico, make a detour to visit the solitary Cappella di Vitaleta, a tiny chapel hugged by cypresses on the way to Pienza. Soon after you’ll see Pienza’s white Cattedrale dell’Assunta in the distance. Visit the Renaissance hamlet before continuing on one of Tuscany’s most scenic roads leading to Monticchiello, among the best preserved medieval hamlets of the Val d’Orcia, home to the Pieve dei Santi Leonardo e Cristoforo.

The drive: From Monticchiello, Montepulciano is a 15-minute drive east along the scenic Via di San Bartolomeo.

3 Montepulciano

Just outside of the Val d’Orcia region, Montepulciano is the ideal stop to break the journey. It’s wine production is famous all over Italy and the historic centre offers many opportunities for tasting and lunch.

The drive: Landscape photo ops await at La Foce, about half way to Radicofani, 35km south.

4 Radicofani

Head south to reach the hamlet of Radicofani, where one of southern Tuscany’s most impressive fortresses, Fortezza di Radicofani, stands at 900m altitude. The panorama from up here is incredible – take in the view over Monte Amiata, then get back on the road to return north.

The drive: Drive north for 30 minutes along the SS2, and shortly after Poggio Covili take a left to reach Castiglione d’Orcia in minutes.

5 Castiglione d’Orcia

After a photo stop at the ‘Cypress Avenue’ that leads to the Agriturismo Poggio Covili, continue in the direction of Castiglione d’Orcia. You will see the imposing Rocca di Tentennano fortress peek towards the sky as you get closer. This towering castle dates back to the 13th century and has historically been one of Siena’s strategic outposts, overlooking the valleys below.

The drive: Retrace your steps by driving north 5km, then take a left following the signs to Bagno Vignoni.

6 Bagno Vignoni

Conclude the trip with a dip in the thermal waters of Bagno Vignoni. The central square here features a 49m-long pool filled with hot spring water. Nearby Parco dei Mulini has free access to the hot springs, but you also have the option of checking in at one of the resorts that make use of the area’s curative waters revered since ancient times.

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Cinematographic baths

The Val d’Orcia is not just home to rolling hills, bucolic farms and orderly planted cypress trees – natural hot springs also carve out rivers that run across the region offering relaxing opportunities in both wilderness and luxurious spas. With only 30 registered residents, Bagno Vignoni has been a wellness destination since Roman times, when pilgrims walking along the Via Francigena reached the hamlet to bathe in its 52°C waters. The remarkable 49m by 29m pool built in the town’s central square, Piazza delle Sorgenti, receives magnesium-rich water originating from 1000m below ground – here Soviet director Andrei Tarkovsky filmed his acclaimed Nostalghia (1983). You will not be able to dip your toes into the monumental pool, but it’s just a few minutes to the Parco dei Mulini, where open-air springs run by the Orcia river.

Piazza delle Sorgenti | Restuccia Giancarlo/shutterstock ©

FESTA DEGLI ANTICHI MESTIERI

In recent years the visually striking golden landscapes of central Tuscany have increasingly become a means to enrich visitors’ Instagram feeds, forming a corpus of dreamy images often detached from their agricultural roots.

A good place to learn about rural life in the Val d’Orcia is the town of Radicofani, which pays tribute to the local community’s relationship with the land during the Festa degli Antichi Mestieri in early June. During the event, historic farm machinery is paraded through the town centre, followed by live demonstrations of ancient crafts ranging from ropemaking to hay stacking.

EATING IN VAL D’ORCIA: RESTAURANTS

Agriturismo Il Rigo: Set in a 16th-century villa outside of San Quirico, Il Rigo offers a daily changing four-course menu of tradition-inspired dishes. 7.30-9pm €€

Osteria La Porta: Refuel with a plate of pici all’aglione while admiring the beautiful countryside view in this Monticchiello restaurant. 11am-11pm Wed-Mon €€

Podere Il Casale: Established by a Swiss family in the ’90s, Il Casale is an agriturismo making its own cheese and serving homely dishes on its rustic terrace. 9am-10pm €€

Osteria del Leone: Seasonal produce is at the heart of every regional-cuisine dish in this lively osteria. Near Bagno Vignoni. 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sun €€

Places We Love to Stay

€ Budget €€ Midrange €€€ Top End

Siena

Alma Domus € Set by the ancient Santuario of Santa Caterina, this budget-friendly hotel is housed in a 14th-century building.

Albergo Bernini €€ With only 10 rooms, this family-run hotel in the northern end of the city centre makes for a cosy stay with beautiful terrace views.

Hotel Santa Caterina €€ Located outside the historic centre, steps away from Porta Romana, this small, welcoming hotel is great for those seeking peace and quiet.

B&B Il Corso €€ A warm atmosphere with a rustic touch just a couple of minutes from Piazza del Campo and Siena’s main sights.

Hotel Chiusarelli €€ Elegantly furnished, well positioned and a scrumptious breakfast to prepare you for long art-filled days.

Antica Residenza Cicogna €€ As the name suggests, this old-charm hotel has its roots in the Middle Ages – don’t worry, amenities have been elegantly updated since then.

Crete Senesi

Agriturismo Pieve Sprenna €€ Set in a great location near Buonconvento to explore both the Crete Senesi and the Val d’Orcia, with an inviting outdoor swimming pool to recover after a day on the road.

Agriturismo San Lorenzo €€ As picturesque as it gets – this set of stone-built farmhouses located north of Asciano is embraced by cypress and olive trees and designed for maximum relaxation.

Antico Granaione B&B €€ Located in the charming village of Serre di Rapolano, this little hotel is built within the historic walls of a fortified medieval granary, minutes away from the Crete’s scenic landscapes.

Chianti

Castello di Cafaggio €€ Picture-perfect property a short distance from Florence, with uniquely furnished rooms, an outdoor swimming pool and enviable surroundings.

Castello di Gabbiano €€€ Four circular towers lock the dreamy fortress north of Greve in Chianti. Come for the atmosphere, stay for the property’s own wine.

COMO Castello Del Nero €€€ This 12th-century castle turned luxury hotel comes with a side of over 300 hectares of vineyard-covered hills (plus a spa, in case you require more relaxation).

San Gimignano

Hotel Leon Bianco €€ Gloriously rustic in the heart of the ancient city, with large rooms and optimal views.

Le Undici Lune €€ Furnishings – armour included – remind guests of the city’s medieval origins, but the service is friendly and up to date.

Hotel l’Antico Pozzo €€€ Housed in a 17th-century convent, this elegant property features a cocktail and wine bar ideal for a nightcap after much culture.

Pienza

Agriturismo Le Macchie €€ A nature-immersed stay south of Monticchiello in a 17th-century building nestled in the rolling hills. Base yourself here and explore the valley with the bikes available for rental.

La Bellavita €€ This small, four-room hotel managed by friendly Elisabetta will make you feel at home from the moment you step into the property.

La Bandita Townhouse €€€ A lovely, luxurious boutique hotel built in a former convent steps away from Pienza’s main square where every detail is carefully thought through.

Bagno Vignoni

Albergo Le Terme €€ A small spa hotel with two pools to relax in and great views on the quaint scenery surrounding Bagno Vignoni.

Albergo Posta Marcucci €€€ Natural hot springs run through the travertine pools of Posta Marcucci, a historic chic residence offering an all-inclusive service.

Adler Thermae €€€ The most luxurious hotel in Bagno Vignoni – everything is designed to make you never want to leave, from the large, modern wellness area to the sumptuous restaurant.

Southern Tuscany

COASTAL WILDERNESS AND SLOW COUNTRYSIDE LIVING

Endless vineyards blend into the lush flora of vast nature reserves, where wildlife thrives just a short distance from long, pristine beaches.

Windmill, Orbetello | FooTToo/shutterstock ©

The Maremma covers nearly a quarter of Tuscany’s area, stretching between the provinces of Livorno and Grosseto along the southwestern coast and the border with Lazio. It is the most sparsely populated area of the region, once inhabited by the mysterious Etruscan people who settled in Maremma around the 7th century BCE, followed by the Romans four centuries later. While early societies flourished, nature gained the upper hand in the Middle Ages, making the Maremma a historically difficult place to live in due to the malaria-infested swamps once occupying much of its coastal territory. Such harsh conditions kept urbanisation and industrialisation at bay for centuries, pushing the Maremmese communities to continuously compromise with the environment to get by. This relationship with nature is very much visible today – inland, where ancient hamlets are built atop tuff rock formations, and along the coast, where deep-rooted agricultural traditions coexist with one of Tuscany’s largest forest expanses. Step away from the Renaissance and delve beyond the postcards.

Sorano | Fesus Robert/shutterstock ©

THE MAIN AREAS

GROSSETO

Maremma’s capital and your base to explore.

ORBETELLO

Beach life and pristine scenery.

Find Your Way

While Grosseto is fairly well connected to elsewhere in Tuscany by public transport, the rest of the area is best explored by car or – for nature reserves – bicycle.

Plan Your Time

The vast Maremma is not a place to rush through. Whether you choose to explore the vineyard-covered interior or go beach-hopping along the coast, be prepared to take it easy.

Parco Regionale della Maremma | AURALAURA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Pressed for Time

• Wake up early and head to Alberese, the main entry point to the Parco Regionale della Maremma, for a long hike in the lush nature of Tuscany’s first protected reserve. Either use the full day to hike the circular trail to the Abbazia di San Rabano, or choose one of the many shorter walks to leave some time to relax on the beach at Marina di Alberese.

A Week-Long Stay

• Plan for a drive through the towns of Pitigliano, Sorano and Sovana to explore the archaeological park Città del Tufo. Return towards the coast and stop at the hot springs of Saturnia before continuing to Orbetello and Monte Argentario for a scenic drive, then take the ferry to Isola del Giglio to discover some of Tuscany’s best beaches.

Seasonal highlights

SPRING

In May, Porto Ercole hosts its Notte dei Pirati, reenacting the 1544 siege of the town by corsair Barbarossa.

SUMMER

Monte Argentario holds its Palio Marinaro dell’Argentario, where four historic districts compete in a traditional rowing regatta.

AUTUMN

Massa Marittima celebrates its patron saint Cerbone with a parade of medieval costumes and an open-air market.

WINTER

Flamingos migrate to the WWF-protected oasis of Orbetello, colouring the lagoon pink.

Grosseto

WALLED CITY | ROMANESQUE CATHEDRAL | ETRUSCAN REMAINS

Despite the city of Grosseto being the heart of Maremma and the main transport hub of southern Tuscany, it hardly makes it on tourist maps. Beginning its expansion as a result of the collapse of the Etruscan then Roman city of Roselle, Grosseto fell under the rule of both the Sienese and the Florentines. They viewed the city as important for acquiring the minerals found in the nearby Colline Metallifere, and for agricultural products from the Ombrone valley, but neglected its value as a social and cultural centre, obstructing the city’s development. And then there was malaria, a disease that heavily affected coastal Maremma, forcing the inhabitants of Grosseto who could afford it to relocate to higher grounds during summer months to avoid infection. The malaria problem wouldn’t be fully solved until after WWII, during which Grosseto was heavily bombed, making its current appearance a result of work done from the 1950s onwards.

SIGHTS

1Cattedrale di San Lorenzo

2Museo Archeologico e d’Arte della Maremma

3Palazzo Aldobrandeschi

SLEEPING

4B&B Le Mura

EATING

5Locanda de’ Medici

6Osteria Canapino

7Trattoria Il Giogo

GETTING AROUND

Direct trains run from Pisa and Siena to Grosseto in approximately 1½ hours. From Grosseto’s railway station, reaching the city centre on foot takes about 15 minutes. Most sights are scattered around the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo, but if you want to head out of the city’s historic core and visit the attractions on the outskirts, you’ll need your own vehicle.

TOP TIP

For some of the best views of the city, take a stroll along the city walls commissioned in the 16th century by Francesco de’ Medici. Running for 3km, the defensive structure has been perfectly preserved to this day.

Maremma’s Capital

Piazza Dante and its monuments

Crowd-free and surrounded by natural and cultural gems, Grosseto is the optimal base from which to explore Etruscan ruins, pristine reserves and remote rural communities, connecting to both the Alta Maremma in the north and the Bassa Maremma in the south. The historic centre is locked within the 16th-century Medicean walls – a defensive structure that has remained intact to this day despite the city’s convoluted history.

Grosseto’s most important sights are found in the adjacent Piazza del Duomo and Piazza Dante, location of the pink-hued Cattedrale di San Lorenzo dating to 1302, and the much more recent Palazzo Aldobrandeschi, which, contrary to what its Gothic influences may suggest, was built in the early 20th century.

Etruscan Roots

Discover Tuscany’s origins

Besides strolling through a mix of its architectural styles, it’s worth stopping at Grosseto’s Museo Archeologico e d’Arte della Maremma (MAAM) to get a better understanding of the region’s early history before heading out to explore Maremma’s archaeological sites. The MAAM houses a large collection of artefacts retrieved during the excavation of former Etruscan cities, some of which date back to the 6th century BCE. Split between 40 halls on two floors, the exhibition traces the evolution of the Etruscan society, describing the early days when Tuscan settlements formed, the trading and cultural exchange with the Greek civilisation and the fall under the Roman Empire.

MALARIA IN MAREMMA

The Maremma region has historically been characterised by its marshes and swamps extending in the valley of Grosseto all the way to the coast. Until the end of the 19th century, this was a malaria-ridden area known to be both one of the most dangerous and poorest parts of Tuscany. In the 1860s about 40% of the population of Grosseto was sick with malaria, transmitted by mosquitos that thrived in the swampy environment.

Grand Duke Leopold II of Lorraine began the reclamation of the Grosseto plains in the 1820s, but eradicating malaria completely would take over a century. Only in 1970 did the World Health Organization declare Italy a malaria-free part of the world.

EATING IN GROSSETO

Locanda de’ Medici: Artisanal pasta and hearty mains are served under the brick vaulted ceiling of this historic restaurant. Tasting menu available. 6pm-midnight Mon-Sat €€

Osteria Canapino: This chic, well-stocked wine bar will find the perfect vino for any food you choose. noon-2.30pm & 7-9pm Tue, Thu & Fri, noon-2.30pm Wed & Sun €€

Trattoria Il Giogo: Family-run and as homely as it gets, this traditional trattoria is rooted in Maremma’s tradition. 12.30-3pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat €

Gabbiano 3.0: This Michelin-starred restaurant serves a fish-based menu with a Balinese touch. 7.30-9.30pm Mon, Tue & Thu-Sat, 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm Sun €€€

Beyond Grosseto

Vast, diverse Maremma rewards those who leave behind the well-known routes for a blend of ancient history and natural wonders.

Few are the travellers that take the time to explore Maremma, an area that hardly gets any press compared to Tuscany’s more iconic destinations. The lack of coverage is perhaps what makes this part of the region so intriguing. Long, two-way roads twist and turn through seemingly infinite countryside sloping into the Mediterranean, though this doesn’t mean you’ll only be drifting through photogenic landscapes. You’ll find there are plenty of reasons to break your journey, from discovering millennia-old Etruscan relics, to immersing yourself in the inebriating local wine culture and swimming in the numerous coves carved into the coastline. Plan for the unexpected.

GETTING AROUND

Boasting beautiful countryside, quaint villages and stunning beaches, the natural surroundings of Grosseto are best explored by car. A large network of trails extends within the limits of the Parco Regionale della Maremma, accessible via the town of Alberese located close to the E80 motorway. A regional train line connects Grosseto with many other cities along the coast and runs all the way south to Rome.

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The lost Etruscan city

Some of the oldest cities in Tuscany were constructed by Etruscans who settled in the region around the 7th century BCE and thrived until the Roman expansion in the 3rd century BCE. Roselle, a short drive from Grosseto, is a millennia-old urban settlement, originally built on the banks of the now-disappeared Prile Lake, that re-emerged through excavations in the 1950s.

The city flourished thanks to its strategic position, which allowed it to control the Ombrone basin. It fell under Roman control in 294 BCE, growing over the following centuries until 1138, when Pope Innocent XI transferred his diocese from Roselle to Grosseto, causing its abandonment. Much of what you see today is the result of the collision between these two civilisations – the Etruscan urban plan has remained much intact inside the striking stone walls that once protected the city, but the remains of structures such as the thermal baths and the basilica date to Roman times.

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Discover an Etruscan necropolis

Vetulonia shows even clearer elements of Etruscan culture. Described in Roman literature as an important commercial centre in the heart of the historic Etruria region, Vetulonia was believed by archaeologists to be a myth until the 1840s, when a statue referring to the lost civilisation of Vetulonia emerged near Cerveteri, Lazio, kick-starting a new treasure hunt in Maremma. Vetulonia saw the light of day again in the 1880s, quickly being recognised as one of Tuscany’s most important sites for understanding Etruscan history. As you walk through Via dei Sepolcri you’ll encounter the astonishing Belvedere Tomb and the nearby Pietrera statue, two of the most impressive examples of Etruscan sculpture, dating back to the 7th century BCE. Make sure you stop at the Museo Civico Archeologico ‘Isidoro Falchi’ (€5), to put the symbology into context and check out dozens of Etruscan artefacts that have emerged throughout the years.

A RUSTIC RUINED ABBEY

Lovers of all things abandoned might want to make a quick stop at the Abbazia di San Bruzio, about 2km from the fortified hamlet of Magliano in Toscana. Park on the Starada Provinciale di Sant’Andrea and walk approximately 100m to the remains of this little white abbey surrounded by vineyards and olive trees.

The abbey is believed to have been built by Benedictine monks in the 11th century, although the historical details of this countryside monument remain a mystery. The apse, the eastern walls and the arches supporting the dome still stand – it’s possible to walk inside, but be aware that the site is not maintained.

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Wine roads less travelled

Bolgheri, Montalcino, Montepulciano and the Chianti get all the attention when it comes to Tuscan wine journeys; however, there is another, lesser-known region worth exploring. The area surrounding the hilltop town of Scansano, reaching the municipalities of Magliano in Toscana and Manciano, is where the Sangiovese grapes used to produce the Morellino di Scansano wine are historically grown.

Apart from its small Museo Archeologico e della Vite e del Vino, housed inside the Palazzo Pretorio, Scansano itself doesn’t have much to offer, but exit this borgo (hamlet) and endless vineyard-covered fields stretch out on both sides of barely trafficked two-lane roads. Legally, the Morellino di Scansano wine can only be produced in this area, with at least 85% of Sangiovese grapes.

Plenty of tasting options are available in the area and prices are typically cheaper than in Tuscany’s most famous wine regions. If you’re driving towards the coast, head to the modern, ship-shaped Tenuta Ammiraglia of the Frescobaldi family, or opt for the picturesque Fattoria di Magliano to compare different expressions of their Morellino. Alternatively, southeast of Scansano, stop by Roccapesta or Terenzi for a tasting of Maremma’s best-known vino.

MORELLINO DI SCANSANO WINE TASTINGS

Cantina Mantellassi: The Mantellassi family has made great Morellino near Magliano for generations. 9.30am-12.30pm & 3-5pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-12.30pm Sat

Cantina Vignaioli del Morellino di Scansano: This innovative winery is a great place to learn about the different facets of Morellino. 9am-1pm & 2.30-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat

Podere 414: A small operation run by passionate winemakers who welcome anyone willing to learn about their process and philosophy. 9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri

Val delle Rose: In the hamlet of Poggio La Mozza, 100 hectares of vineyard surround the villa where Poggio al Leone Morellino is made. 10am-7pm Mon-Sat

HIKING TOUR
Hike Maremma’s Nature Park

The thickly forested Uccellina hills slope gently towards wild sandy beaches in Tuscany’s first nature reserve, stretching along Maremma’s coast for nearly 100 sq km. Ancient watchtowers peek out at higher elevations while deer, foxes and boars roam freely in this exceptionally diverse ecosystem. This hike through the Parco Regionale della Maremma will take you from the park’s entrance in Alberese to the Spiaggia di Collelungo via the ruins of the mysterious Abbazia di San Rabano and back. Allow approximately five hours.

Parco Regionale della Maremma | Fidippide/shutterstock ©

1 Alberese

Collect your entrance tickets (€10) at the park’s visitor centre in Alberese (Centro Visite Alberese) and buy enough water for the day at the minimarket on the other side of the street. If you are driving, you can park for free near the pink-striped Chiesa di Santa Maria, 50m from the visitor centre, and start walking from there.

The hike: From the church, walk along the Strada del Cimitero for 100m and you’ll find the gate leading into the park by the cemetery.

2 Abbazia di San Rabano

Access the A1 trail next to the cemetery not far from the church and after a few minutes you’ll start walking uphill along the path used in the old days by farmers and their herds of sheep. In less than an hour you’ll see the spectacular ruins of the Castello di San Rabano appearing in the forest. This monumental Benedictine abbey was built between the 11th and 12th centuries and abandoned in the 15th century. Explore its remains before continuing onward.

The hike: The path continues at around 300m elevation through the Mediterranean woodland, offering great views of the coast.

3 Oliveto di Collelungo

After approximately 2km you’ll start descending towards the coast. The narrow trail gets gradually broader, until it enters a green valley where century-old olive trees line up one after the other. The Oliveto di Collelungo is one of the most picturesque sections of the park, made even more astonishing by the Torre di Castel Marino visible in the distance on top of the hill.

The hike: Walk along the paved road that runs between the olive trees until you reach the entrance to the beach.

4 Spiaggia di Collelungo

After 10km of hiking, it’s time for a well-deserved break on the beach. Set up camp at the sandy Spiaggia di Collelungo, under the shadow of the tower with the same name. Go for a swim in the water and see if you can spot one of the deer that regularly visit the beach.

The hike: Turn back and retrace your steps until the trail splits. Take a left and walk along Strada degli Ulivi for about an hour.

5 Wildlife Itinerary

Once you’ve left the beach it’s smooth sailing all the way to the opposite part of the park. The path is paved and runs through the forest, sloping down until it reaches another area covered by olive groves. Get back to Alberese’s visitor centre via the enclosed A6 ‘Wildlife Itinerary’ route, a short, accessible path running between fences and crossing a sanctuary for deer, wild boars, roe deer, foxes and many other elusive animals.

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Family-friendly beach

Maremma is home to some of the best beaches Tuscany has to offer. Compared to the glitzy resort towns of the northern part of the coast, the sandy dunes stretching towards Lazio provide a more relaxed atmosphere and closer contact with the wilderness. Family-friendly Spiaggia delle Rocchette, an 8km-long flat beach located north of Castiglione della Pescaia, stretches under the shadow of the 12th-century Forte delle Rocchette watchtower. Whether you prefer to chill under an umbrella or snorkel in search of submerged landscapes, here you’ll find both. Summer weekends can get crowded, so get here early.

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Wild sands

Entering the Parco Regionale della Maremma offers a wilder beach experience. Embraced by the thickly forested grounds of the nature reserve, Marina di Alberese – easily reached by bike or with bus 17 (active in summer only) from Alberese via the 8km road cutting through the park – offers 4km of unspoilt sands that get increasingly quieter as you move southwards towards the nudist section of the beach.

BIRDWATCHING PARADISE

Follow the coastline northwards from the Parco Regionale della Maremma and you’ll soon reach another reserve brimming with wildlife. The Riserva Naturale della Diaccia Botrona was formed in the 18th century by draining the once-vast Preglio Lake in an attempt to eradicate malaria – a disease that continued to torment Maremma until the 1940s.

Today marshes cover nearly 13 sq km, providing the perfect ecosystem for dozens of bird species to thrive, including flamingos, wild geese, great white egrets and cranes. The reserve can be visited year-round, but winter and early spring are best for observing pink flamingoes and other species that migrate to the area.

EATING NEAR THE PARCO REGIONALE DELLA MAREMMA

Altro?: Near the park’s entrance in Alberese, this place is almost stereotypically Tuscan, serving generous portions of Maremma classics. 7.30-10.15pm €

Ristorante da Remo: In the centre of Rispescia, minutes from Alberese, is this locally loved seafood restaurant that makes freshness its trademark. 7.30-9.30pm Thu-Tue €€

Agriturismo Il Melograno di Banditella: Taste dishes made with organic ingredients produced on-site at this bucolic farm-house minutes away from Alberese. 7.30-10pm €€

Osteria Il Mangiapane: Small bites, handmade pici and tasty mains, minutes north of Alberese’s town centre. 7-9.30pm Mon-Wed, 12.30-2.30pm & 7-9.30pm Fri-Sun €€

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Art without the crowds

As far as art cities go, Massa Marittima is up there with Tuscany’s top destinations. Or at least it should be – due to the lack of direct public transport connections from major urban centres few take the time to visit, despite its rich history and cultural heritage. An independent commune between 1225 and 1337, Massa Marittima (not to be confused with Massa, near Carrara) has kept its medieval character largely intact thanks to its isolated position on the forested slopes of the Colline Metallifere.

Most sights are easily reached from Piazza Garibaldi, the city’s main square, starting from the Cattedrale di San Cerbone. The Romanesque cathedral was built between the 11th and 14th centuries, financed through the extraction of mineral resources that characterised Massa Marittima’s golden age. The splendid facade is adorned by Giovanni Pisano’s sculptures – look closely to see a kneeling man, a horse and a gryphon holding the columns, and five panels on the lintel recounting the life of San Cerbone. Inside, Giroldo da Como’s intricately carved baptismal font (1267) sits by Duccio di Buoninsegna’s painting Madonna delle Grazie (1318) and Goro di Gregorio’s Arca di San Cerbone (1324). More of Pisano’s works that once decorated the cathedral are found inside the Museo di San Pietro all’Orto, a 10-minute walk away.

Massa Marittima’s best-known painting, however, is found outside the cathedral, on a wall of the nearby Palazzo dell’Abbondanza, the former public grain storehouse erected in 1265. It was here, in 1999, that archaeologists rediscovered the anonymous fresco titled Albero della Fecondità (Tree of Fertility) – a large tree carrying penises as fruits, under which is a group of women attempting to harvest the fruit while being threatened by ominous crows. There are different interpretations of the image, with historians still debating whether it should be read as a hopeful omen to encourage rich harvests or as propaganda to warn against the depraved habits of the Ghibellines who opposed the Pope.

Massa Marittima | WeronikaH/shutterstock ©

A MUSICAL GARDEN

Since 1996, German contemporary artist Paul Fuchs has been adding to his Giardino dei Suoni (paulfuchs.com), in the municipality of Boccheggiano, 18km from Massa Marittima. The permanent sculpture exhibition is a collection of wood, iron and stone installations that produce unique sounds as the wind blows through them, creating a dialogue between nature and art. To see the Fuchs works – which are scattered over 2 hectares of private land – you will need to book by calling 0566 99 82 21.

EATING IN MASSA MARITTIMA

Le Fate ‘Briache: Slow Food–awarded restaurant with a delicious spinach and ricotta tortelli alla maremmana. 7.30-9.30pm Tue-Sat €€

Taverna del Vecchio Borgo: Steps away from the cathedral, this trattoria cooks up Maremma’s specialities in a rustic, exposed-brick spot. 7.30-10pm Tue-Sun €€

La Tana dei Brilli: Literally called ‘drunks’ den’, this tiny eatery is known for its wild-boar dishes and healthy doses of Morellino. 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Thu-Tue €

Il Gatto e la Volpe: All the Tuscan classics, plus some Maremmese specialities are served in this rustic stone-built restaurant. 6.30-10pm Mon-Fri, noon-2pm & 7-10pm Sat & Sun €€

ROAD TRIP
Touring Città del Tufo

A triangle of land in Tuscany’s deep south forms the area known as Città del Tufo, a network of ancient settlements that emerged during the Etruscan era. The three main – and most impressive – towns of the Città del Tufo are Pitigliano, Sovana and Sorano, around which the 60-hectare Parco Archeologico Città del Tufo extends.

Vitozza | Giuma/shutterstock ©

1 Sorano

The rock village of Sorano is one of the oldest settlements in the region, inhabited since Etruscan times and dominated by the 12th-century Fortezza Orsini, named after the family who ruled this territory at the time. Today the fortress houses the Civic & Archaeological Museum and a network of labyrinthine underground passages connecting the various parts of the structure. It’s imposing architecture is best appreciated by climbing the fortress Masso Leopoldino, the fortified citadel built on top of a tuff rock formation.

The drive: Drive east on the Strada Provinciale Pantano for just 10 minutes and you’ll reach an intersection. Take a left to get to Vitozza.

2 Vitozza

It is near the stone-built village of Sorano that you’ll get a first glimpse of the Etruscan roots of this corner of the region – the archaeological site of Vitozza contains 200 caves dug into the tuff rock that still show evidence of their use as both dwellings and colombari (pigeon farms). Take a walk among the rock formations and the ancient silent dwellings before continuing to Sovana.

The drive: Turn around and drive back to Sorano, then continue travelling west for 16km to Sovana. There is a parking lot north of the city centre, along Via dell’Oratorio.

3 Sovana

Even more impressive are the Etruscan remnants found in Sovana, the hamlet extending from the 11th-century Rocca Aldobrandesca. Next to the monumental necropolis you can find the Via Cava di San Sebastiano, one of the 15 trench-like passages dug into the tuff rock found in the area. This via cava stretches for approximately 500m and its walls reach 25m in height.

The drive: Travel back for 2km then take a right to access the Strada Provinciale Pian della Madonna. Within minutes a spectacular view of Pitigliano will appear in front of you.

4 Pitigliano

Last stop before returning to Grosseto via the SR74 road is Pitigliano, the largest town of the Città del Tufo whose Palazzo Orsini will appear towering above the tuff hill as you get closer. In the late 16th century, after racial laws established Rome and Florence’s Jewish ghettos, Pitigliano became home to a thriving community of Jewish refugees. While only a handful of Jewish residents remain, traces of their history exist – a kosher wine cellar, the Forno del Ghetto bakery and a cemetery are all found near the 1598 synagogue and the Museum of Jewish culture La Piccola Gerusalemme.

Detour: As you leave Città del Tufo to return to Grosseto, stop by the public baths of Cascate del Mulino in Saturnia, where sulphurous waters pour into pools (free to access) at a constant 37°C.

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Enlightening journeys on an extinct volcano

An extinguished volcano forms 1800m Monte Amiata, the imposing massif looming over much of southern Tuscany. Historic hamlets and exceptional opportunities to experience the great outdoors combine on the slopes of this remote corner of the region, best explored on the road starting from the tiny centre of Seggiano.

Surrounded by vast expanses of olive groves, Seggiano is known primarily for its long history of olive-oil production. In its lush surroundings you’ll find the Garden of Daniel Spoerri, a 16-hectare open-air art exhibition featuring over 100 of the Swiss artist’s installations.

Continue past the garden for about 15 minutes to reach Arcidosso, a small hilltop town that would unlikely stand out if it wasn’t for its unexpected relationship with Tibetan culture. Located here is the MACO Museum, Arcidosso’s Museum of Oriental Art & Culture, featuring over 5000 artefacts from the collection of Namkhai Norbu, professor of Tibetan and Mongolian language and literature at Naples Orientale University for three decades until 1992. Namkhai Norbu was also one of the founders of the nearby Merigar International Dzogchen Community, a centre existing since 1981 where stupas, gonpas, temples and meditation halls immersed in nature host the local Buddhist community. Free tours run regularly for visitors; book via merigar.it.

Further up Monte Amiata’s slopes is the fortified town of Santa Fiora, where the powerful Aldobrandeschi family built one of their many castles in the 11th century. Santa Fiora, however, reveals another side of Monte Amiata’s history as well – since ancient times the area’s economy has been supported by the dangerous extraction of mercury, as narrated in the little Museo Miniere di Mercurio, which traces the history of local mine workers.

If you decide to continue southwards, you can also reach Rocchette di Fazio, a minuscule village, inhabited by only a few dozen residents, seemingly hanging onto a cliff overlooking the Maremmese countryside. This ancient borgo is believed to have been occupied by the Knights Templar in the 13th century.

HIKING & SKIING ON MONTE AMIATA

In summer, extend your Monte Amiata trip by visiting the medieval town of Abbadia San Salvatore (820m altitude), founded by the Lombard King Rachis in the 8th century. From here, you can start the 27km hiking trail around Monte Amiata known as the Anello dell’Amiata, a beautiful walk through beech forests growing on the former volcano.

The circuit is not particularly difficult, but completing the whole itinerary will take between six and eight hours so it’s best to start early in the morning.

The mountain becomes a skiing destination in winter months, with 12km of slopes reachable from Abbadia San Salvatore and Vivo d’Orcia.

Orbetello

WILDLIFE | SPANISH HERITAGE | OCEAN VIEWS

Stretching out in a lagoon formed by the Giannella and the Feniglia tombolos (narrow sand bars), the laid-back seaside resort of Orbetello attracts visitors with its unique geography and unhurried atmosphere derived from its long-standing relationship with the surrounding environment. Inhabited since Etruscan times, the city fell under Spanish rule in the 16th century, as part of the small State of the Presidi that emerged after the fall of the Sienese Republic. Traces of the Spanish period persist, although it is for the long, relaxing beaches and bird-packed reserves that most reach this corner of southern Tuscany. In 1842 an artificial dam – the Diga Leopoldina – was built to connect Orbetello with Monte Argentario, splitting the lagoon into two sections. Much of the northeastern side is a protected environment that turns pink when flocks of flamingos migrate to the area between late autumn and early spring, making for a wonderful low-season escape.

SIGHTS

1Giannella

2Mulino Spagnolo

3Museo Archeologico

4Riserva Naturale Duna Feniglia

SLEEPING

5B&B Corso Italia

6La Posta di Terranova

7Orbetello Camping Village

8Villa Ambra

EATING

9Baraka

10La Mi Casa

11L’Asino d’Oro

12Trattoria Rugantino

GETTING AROUND

Regional trains take about 30 minutes to go from Grosseto to the Orbetello-Monte Argentario railway station, located 3.5km east of Orbetello’s town centre. From the station you can get to the town centre by taking bus 1, 2 or 120, which cover the distance in under 15 minutes. The heart of Orbetello is compact and easily walkable, but to explore the surroundings you’ll need either your own vehicle or a bike.

TOP TIP

Girobike (girobike.net) and La Casa del Ciclo (lacasadelciclo.it), two shops found steps away from each other in the centre of Orbetello, rent bicycles and e-bikes to explore the nature reserves around the town or challenge yourself with a Monte Argentario loop.

Orbetello’s Spanish Heritage

Discover the architecture of the Spanish era

The enduring symbol of Orbetello is found by the tip of the peninsula – the small, cylindrical grain-grinding Mulino Spagnolo. Dating back to the Sienese era and restored by the Spanish, it rises from the lagoon on the west side of the dam. It’s not the only piece of architecture reminiscent of the Spanish State of the Presidi – the 1692 Polveriera Guzman that once housed tons of explosive material has now been converted into Orbetello’s Museo Archeologico, and the Palazzo del Podestà, once the residence of Spanish viceroys, rises from Piazza Eroe dei Due Mondi with its iconic clock tower.

Between Sea & Forests

Explore the nature of Giannella and Feniglia

Orbetello’s urban landscape retreats as you leave the city centre, opening onto long sandy beaches and the WWF-protected oasis. The two beaches most people come here for during summer months stretch out on the outer edge of the two sandy tombolos that connect Monte Argentario with mainland Tuscany – Giannella and Feniglia. The 6km-long, tree-lined Giannella beach is great spot to admire the sun setting on the Mediterranean, while Feniglia is a protected park known as Riserva Naturale Duna Feniglia, where deer, wild boars, foxes and other animals live between the lagoon and the open sea.

CARAVAGGIO’S MEDUSA

If you look carefully enough when exploring the Riserva Naturale Duna Feniglia you might notice a marble sculpture of Caravaggio’s Medusa standing in the lush reserve. The monument stands as a tribute to the artist who died in the area in 1610.

Caravaggio had fled Rome four years earlier following a death sentence he had received after murdering a man during a brawl. After spending years in southern Italy and escaping from prison in Malta, he reached Porto Ercole in Monte Argentario in an attempt to recover missing artwork while awaiting a pardon from the Pope. Sick and debilitated, Caravaggio died in Porto Ercole a few days after his arrival. The original Medusa can be admired in the Uffizi in Florence.

EATING IN ORBETELLO: RESTAURANTS

L’Asino d’Oro: Lucio Sforza’s little eatery is great for trying the cuisine of lower Maremma, with a rich menu of seasonal dishes. Book ahead. 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat €€

La Mi Casa: No fuss or frills, just fresh ingredients traditionally cooked in the homely atmosphere the name suggests. noon-2pm & 7-11.30pm Tue & Thu-Mon, 7-11.30pm Wed €€

Trattoria Rugantino: Offering Roman classics, including cacio e pepe, to those looking for a break from Tuscan cuisine. 7-11pm Tue-Thu, noon-2.30pm & 7-11pm Fri-Sun €€

Baraka: Pair creative cocktails with a menu of internationally inspired dishes at this quirky bar adorned with exotic decor. 6pm-12.30am €€

Beyond Orbetello

An endless choice of beaches might delay your sightseeing, but unexpected surprises reward those who find the time to leave the water behind.

The southernmost corner of Tuscany is closer to Rome than it is to Florence, attracting beachgoers from both regions during summer thanks to its turquoise waters – some of the best in the region. But leaving Orbetello can mean more than seeking the perfect sunbathing spot: while heading straight for the pristine beaches of the lower Tuscan Archipelago is definitely worthwhile, art and medieval fortifications dotting the region’s forested interior are also waiting to be discovered. Rushing here is pointless – whether you prefer to travel over sea or land, you won’t have any choice but to adapt to the slow pace of this borderland.

GETTING AROUND

Buses run to Monte Argentario and the Maremma’s interior from Ortebello’s railway station, but a car will make reaching panoramic viewpoints and hidden beaches much easier. From Monte Argentario’s Porto Santo Stefano, many ferries depart to the island of Giglio throughout the day during the high season (May to September), while service is limited in winter.

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Mediterranean beach escapes along the Via Panoramica

Connected to the rest of Tuscany through three narrow strips of land forming two lagoons, Monte Argentario can’t be called an island, even though its atmosphere suggests otherwise. Sleepy in winter and lively in summer, Monte Argentario has a unique geography and attracts holidaymakers who arrive by land and sea to enjoy its 20-plus coves and beaches.

Via Panoramica runs along the coast connecting Monte Argentario’s two main cities, Porto Santo Stefano and Porto Ercole, offering breathtaking views in between. Many of its more appealing beaches, however, can’t be reached by car. The cobble beaches of Cala Grande and Cala Piccola require some nature walking – unless you have a yacht.

Note that the final stretch of the road to Porto Ercole is unpaved and in very bad condition at the time of writing. With most cars you will have to turn around at the Spiaggia Le Cannelle, the pebbly beach dominated by the Torre delle Cannelle, and drive back to Porto Santo Stefano to continue to Porto Ercole.

In Caravaggio’s footsteps

Porto Ercole, the main Monte Argentario city where part of Anthony Minghella’s The Talented Mr Ripley (1999) was filmed, houses the tomb of Renaissance artist Michelangelo Merisi, better known as Caravaggio. Caravaggio died in Porto Ercole in 1610, shortly after he arrived to retrieve a series of paintings mistakenly shipped to Monte Argentario. The artist’s remains have long been contested by historians, but a 2010 DNA test found there was an 85% chance of them being authentic, leading to a funerary monument being placed in the centre of town. In 2019 the tomb was moved to the local cemetery.

Porto Ercole’s Spanish fortresses

When you reach the marina of Porto Ercole, look up to spot Forte Filippo, Forte Stella (€2) and the Rocca dominating the skyline from the top of the cliffs surrounding the city. These are the defensive structures built in Porto Ercole under Spanish rule to observe the ocean from above and anticipate attacks from the sea. Forte Filippo and the Rocca are not open to visitors at the moment, but you can access the most fascinating of the three forts – Forte Stella, named after its star-shaped plan – between July and September, when the structure opens daily. Between April and June, Forte Stella is only open on weekends.

PORTO ERCOLE’S PIRATE FESTIVAL

Each May, Porto Ercole hosts the Notte dei Pirati (Night of the Pirates) festival, where hundreds of locals dress as pirates and parade through the streets. The highlight is a reenactment of the 1544 attack on Porto Ercole by the Ottoman corsair Khayr Al Din, better known as Barbarossa, who seized 200 prisoners and took control of the town.

As night falls, the bay comes alive with fireworks, and a historic ship, accompanied by smaller pirate-filled boats, sails into the marina. The celebration continues late into the night with food stalls and live music enhancing the lively atmosphere.

Check the dates and the program for the next edition of the festival at lanottedeipiratidiportoercole.com.

EATING IN MONTE ARGENTARIO

Ristorante La Sirena: This busy, well-known trattoria in Porto Ercole serves freshly caught seafood. 7-11pm Mon, noon-2.30pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sun €€

Hosteria Alicina: Right on Porto Ercole’s seafront, this quirkily decorated restaurant serves up seafood spaghetti with a view. 12.30-2.30pm & 7-11pm €€

Ristorante Torre d’Argento: You can’t really beat the view from this restaurant set above Monte Argentario’s Cala Piccola. 7.30-10.30pm €€€

Il Pellicano: Michelin-starred chef Michelino Gioia invites those willing to splurge on creative meals while listening to the sound of the waves. 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm €€€

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Between the medieval and the contemporary

In Maremma’s southernmost tip, Capalbio overlooks the coast and the Lago di Burano WWF Reserve from its fort, erected by the Aldobrandeschi family between the 11th and 12th centuries. Locked within the tall, walkable walls is a network of narrow lanes connecting the Chiesa di San Nicola, the castle and the expected stone architecture that’s found in many of Italy’s picturesque hilltop settlements dating to the Middle Ages. While the charm of ancient borghi such as Capalbio hardly fades, a surprise awaits outside the town’s medieval core.

French-American artist Niki de Saint Phalle (1930–2002) is responsible for the construction of the visionary Giardino dei Tarocchi (ilgiardinodeitarocchi.it; adult/child €14/9), a psychedelic open-air monumental sculpture gallery found 8km south of Capalbio, inspired by Antoni Gaudí’s Park Güell in Barcelona. She began working on the project in 1974, after art collector Marella Agnelli agreed to host de Saint Phalle’s fantastical sculptures on her family’s property in Maremma. Niki de Saint Phalle and her husband, Jean Tinguely, devoted their lives to the construction of 24 colourful figures that echo the symbolism of tarot cards. Enter the park to walk through the hypnotic scenery composed of a magician, a bishop, a priestess and a mirror-clad Sphinx, which Niki de Saint Phalle used as her home while she was working on the garden.

Giglio Porto, Isola del Giglio | K - Photo/shutterstock ©

BEST BEACHES NEAR CAPALBIO

Oasi di Macchiatonda: A wild, quiet, protected beach right by Lago di Burano, reached by following a 1km footpath leading to clear waters.

Spiaggia di Ansedonia: Between Capalbio and Orbetello, this popular summer resort features golden beaches extending from the cliffs of the Spacco della Regina.

Spiaggia di Chiarone: Located in the southernmost part of coastal Tuscany, turquoise waters hit the last stretch of sand before Lazio.

Montalto Marina: Across the Tuscan border in Lazio, find the long, popular beach of Montalto Marina, surrounded by extensive pine forests.

EATING IN CAPALBIO

Trattoria Toscana: As rustic as it is homely, this trattoria serves generous portions of tasty seasonal dishes. 7-10.30pm Mon-Thu, 12.30-3pm & 7-10.30pm Fri-Sun €€

La Selva: The exceptional attention to detail makes this seafood restaurant a local favourite in the lower part of town. 7.45-10.45pm Tue-Thu, 12.45-2.30pm & 7.45-10pm Fri-Sun €€

Ristorante Tullio: This welcoming restaurant proudly feeds locals and visitors with fair-priced Maremma classics. 7.30-10pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-2pm & 7.30-10pm Sun €€

Ristorante La Porta: With a terrace overlooking the countryside, La Porta cooks up regional specialities from the kitchen of a 16th-century palace. noon-3pm & 7-10pm €€

Isola del GiglioTIME FROM ORBETELLO: 2 HR 10 MINS jpg jpg

Delight in island life

The second-largest island of the Tuscan Archipelago, idyllic Isola del Giglio remains mostly calm and secluded even in peak summer. Known for its natural beauty, the island comprises 21 sq km of craggy terrain and hills, making it a popular walking destination. A three-hour hike along ancient mule tracks and precipitous footpaths takes you to all three of the island’s villages.

From Giglio Porto, the island’s only ferry port, head to Castello, a fortified hilltop village built by the Aldobrandeschi family, and finally on to Campese, a beach town nestled on the northwestern coast. Each spring, when the Mediterranean scrub is in full bloom and the weather is mild, the Giglio Walking Festival (giglioinfo.it) brings like-minded hikers to the island for various guided hikes.

Giglio’s beaches are known for their fine, white sand and crystal-clear waters, making it a veritable Robinson Crusoe spot for those who find Elba too busy. The three most beautiful beaches are all an easy day trip from Giglio Porto. A 15-minute stroll from the ferry terminal is magnificent Cala delle Cannelle, a crescent-shaped bay with sparkling turquoise sea. Around the next headland, a gravelly footpath leads to Le Caldane, another heavenly spot. Just north of Porto Giglio, Cala dell’Arenella is a secluded cove with pristine snorkelling spots. Regular year-round Toremar and Maregiglio ferries sail between Porto Santo Stefano and Giglio Porto, with the journey taking one hour.

Cala delle Cannelle, Isola del Giglio | PIXEL to the PEOPLE/shutterstock ©

THE ANCIENT CITY OF COSA

An important site to learn more about the expansion of the Roman civilisation in Tuscany is the former city of Cosa (€2; 9.45am-6.30pm Fri-Sun), which became a Roman colony in 273 BCE, marking the beginning of the end of the Etruscan dominion in Tuscany. Following the conquest of the Etruscan cities of Volsinii and Vulci in 280 BCE, the Roman Republic established a new urban centre in the area of Ansedonia. Most of the ruins visible today – including the ‘Arce’, the temple where religious functions were performed (offering great views on the Argentario), and the forum – belong to the Roman era.

EATING IN ISOLA DEL GIGLIO

Da Maria: Dine on delightful seafood pasta and fish by candlelight in this historic palace overlooking Campese Bay. 12.30-3pm & 7-11pm Thu-Tue, 7-11pm Wed €€

Faro di Punta Fenaio: A tiny hotel and restaurant set in a 19th-century lighthouse; the food is good, but the sunset vistas are unbeatable. 8-10.30pm €€€

L’Arenella: For the chic beach-club vibes enjoyed on larger islands, visit Hotel L’Arenella and sample some elevated seafood gastronomy. 12.30-3pm & 7.30-10pm €€

Trattoria del Golfo: Popular restaurant in Giglio Campese where the daily catch takes centre stage. noon-11pm €€

Places We Love to Stay

€ Budget €€ Midrange €€€ Top End

Grosseto

B&B Le Mura €€ Basic hotel right by Grosseto’s historic walls, ideal for those looking for a restful night after a day in nature.

Agriturismo Tenuta di Poggio Cavallo €€ Located 10km east of the city centre, this bucolic estate makes for a peaceful countryside retreat.

Agriturismo La Collina Degli Olivi €€ North of the city near the archaeological site of Roselle, this farm stay guarantees a relaxing full immersion in nature.

Villa Passerini €€€ Set in a restored 19th-century mill, this hotel with spa and fine-dining restaurant is surrounded by nature.

Alberese

Poggiolivi Agriturismo € A bucolic stay where colourful, updated rooms are complemented by great food made using the organic ingredients produced on-site.

Villa Fattoria Granducale €€ Close to Alberese’s visitor centre, this historic farmhouse is the ideal base to explore the trails inside the park. On request, you can visit the space where Maremma’s cowboys (butteri) maintain their horse saddles and other equipment.

Monte Amiata

Hotel Le Macinaie € Simple, nature-immersed stay near the peak of Monte Amiata, ideally positioned to plan outdoor adventures.

Convento San Bartolomeo €€ A truly unique hotel set in an 800-year-old convent converted into a luxurious property during the 19th century.

Albergo Sella €€ One of the area’s highest hotels (at an altitude of 1650m), Albergo Sella is great for hiking in summer and skiing in winter.

Orbetello

Orbetello Camping Village € In the middle of Giannella, this family-friendly campground offers both private bungalows and tent spots, plus swimming pools and an on-site restaurant.

Agriturismo Al Girasole € A short drive from Orbetello is this farm stay run by friendly Massimiliano. Large garden, swimming pool, homemade breakfast and many animals will make you want to stay longer.

B&B Corso Italia € Basic accommodation on Orbetello’s main drag, close to all shops and restaurants on the peninsula.

Villa Ambra €€ Directly facing the Giannella beach, this villa combines bright, minimalist rooms with lovely sunset views.

La Posta di Terranova €€ Family-friendly countryside stay near the WWF oasis, with an in-house restaurant and pool.

Monte Argentario

Camping Feniglia € Right by the beach of Feniglia, this is the only campground in Monte Argentario, providing bungalows and plenty of space to pitch your own tent close to the sand.

Hotel La Conchiglia €€ Family-run hotel steps away from Porto Ercole’s waterfront. Rooms are complete with little balconies so you can enjoy the breeze day and night.

Torre di Cala Piccola €€€ A luxury boutique hotel perched on top of Cala Piccola. Watch the sun setting from the terrace and enjoy spectacular views in all directions.

Isola del Giglio

Campeggio Baia del Sole € The only campground on Giglio, here you can wake up metres from the sea and enjoy exquisite rustic dinners at the on-site restaurant.

Pardini’s Hermitage €€ A cliffside agriturismo (farm-stay accommodation) on the southeast of the island, where the family’s pigs and goats mingle with guests.

La Guardia €€€ This boutique hotel, which overlooks the island’s only harbour, is the epitome of minimal, whitewashed chic.

Central Coast & Elba

PRISTINE BEACHES AND ANCIENT RUINS

Hamlets, pinewoods and vineyards preceding kilometres of beaches, Tuscany’s unpretentious central coast is the place to go to slow down and avoid crowds.

Spiaggia di Sant’Andrea, Elba | Benny Marty/shutterstock ©

The 90km of coast stretching from the city of Livorno to the town of Piombino is known as Costa degli Etuschi, in honour of the pre-Roman civilisation that dwelled in these lands between the 9th and 1st centuries BCE. Hilltop and seaside towns populate the area, while ancient vineyards, lines of cypress and pinewood forests alternate to colour the land green until it touches the crystalline sea. The Etruscan Coast may not have the popularity of the Amalfi Coast, but it’s arguably much more pleasant to holiday in. Aside from Tuscans assaulting the coast in August, you’re otherwise likely to have calm, clean beaches and open roads all to yourself. This is where to go if you’re looking to avoid crowds and enjoy slow tourism; there are kilometres of bikeable itineraries, paths to trek and history to discover.

The major city and jumping-off point is Livorno – a scruffy port influenced by centuries of traders and immigrants who helped it flourish. Heading south, the old Roman road Via Aurelia traces the coastline. Inland you’ll find thermal baths, Etruscan ruins and medieval hilltop towns like Bolgheri, famous for its DOC red wine. The seven islands of the Tuscan Archipelago are even more appealing. Spend a couple of days getting to know the dreamy beaches and Napoleonic harbours of Elba, Italy’s third-largest island, or venture out to the smaller Capraia or Pianosa.

Livorno | Nancy Pauwels/shutterstock ©

THE MAIN AREAS

LIVORNO

Historic port with fortresses that double as cultural venues.

ELBA

Age-old vineyards, windswept cliffs and gorgeous beaches.

Find Your Way

The Costa degli Etruschi is a long, thin coastline that stretches for 90km from Livorno to Piombino. It won’t take you more than an hour to get anywhere by car. Consider biking short distances.

Plan Your Time

Travelling around the Etruscan Coast is all about rustic, low-key charm – get lost down cypress-lined driveways and stop at vineyards and ancient ruins before taking a cooling dip in the Tyrrhenian Sea.

Mercato delle Vettovaglie, Livorno | Only Fabrizio/shutterstock ©

With Just One Day

• Spend the morning exploring the faded grandeur of the historic city centre of Livorno, taking in the diverse architecture and Venetian-style canal network. Don’t miss the colourful Mercato delle Vettovaglie. Afterwards, take a short train ride to the charming seaside town of Castiglioncello to hang out at the beach or visit the medieval village and fine vineyards of Bolgheri.

If You Have More Time

• After a few hours in Livorno and its province, take the ancient Via Aurelia all the way south to Piombino, and hop on an hour-long ferry to Elba. Walk around the centre of Portoferraio and visit Napoleon’s villas. Hire a car and spend a few days exploring along the precipitous mountain roads and their panoramic views, and enjoy the island’s many beaches.

Seasonal highlights

SPRING

Sunny days make for excellent walking and cycling; on exceptionally warm days visit the still deserted beaches.

SUMMER

June and September are good months to enjoy a summer holiday without running into crowds. Avoid August, if possible.

AUTUMN

Enjoy local festivals in September/October and participate in the grape harvest at the many vineyards strewn along the coast.

WINTER

Although always charming, this region tends to quiet down in winter and many hotels and restaurants close for months on end.

Livorno

A NEW ITALIAN CITY | SEAFOOD | MODERN HISTORY

Though it’s not at the top of everyone’s agenda, the shabby port city of Livorno is full of unlikely charms. It offers some of the best seafood in the region, sees fewer crowds than more picturesque Tuscan cities and is a worthwhile stopover on your way to the seaside. Livorno is one of Italy’s ‘newest’ cities, and one of the few that can’t boast ancient origins: it was only founded in 1606 when the Florentine family of Medici were in need of a ‘free port’. The result was a multicultural merchant population – in particular Jews, Armenians, Dutch, English, Spanish and Greeks. Venetian workers were recruited to build houses, churches and canals in their own style, and the city flourished as a safe haven for persecuted minorities and pardoned criminals. The centuries of cosmopolitan legacy live on – in the vibrant markets, diverse architecture and the Livornese people themselves.

HIGHLIGHTS

1Fortezza Vecchia

2Mercato delle Vettovaglie

SIGHTS

3Cattedrale di San Francesco

4Chiesa di Santa Caterina

5Fortezza Nuova

6Museo della Città di Livorno

7Piazza della Repubblica

SLEEPING

8Affittacamere il Porto

9Affittacamere Le Streghe Rooms & Art

10Agave in Città

11Dogana d’Acqua B&B

12In City B&B

EATING

Alle Vettovaglie (see 2)

13Azzighe

14Gagarin

15Melafumo

16Seghieri

17Trattoria Il Sottomarino

DRINKING

18Alphonse

19Fortezza Elettrica

20Il Barroccino

GETTING AROUND

If you arrive in Livorno by car, you’ll find plenty of parking spots, and you can easily pay for your parking with the MooneyGo app. If you arrive by train, the station is located some 30 minutes away on foot from the main sights. The city centre is walkable and bike-friendly, but the city’s buses are also frequent and reliable. A city ticket costs €1.70 (or €3 when purchased on board). Some buses also connect to the neighbouring coast towns for higher fares depending on distance.

TOP TIP

The Mercato delle Vettovaglie, the city’s iconic food market, is only open until 2pm – plan your day so that you can spend at least your late morning here.

Local Flavours

Market snacks and specialities

To sample Livorno through its food, spend your morning at the vibrant Mercato delle Vettovaglie (Mercato Centrale; mercatodellevettovaglie.it; closed Sun), a 95m-long neoclassical building that rises from the water of the Fosso Reale, the moat delimiting the city centre. Operating since 1894, it is the largest covered market in Italy and miraculously survived bombing during WWII. Walk by the stalls, chat with the vendors and admire the abundance of fresh seafood, seasonal produce, artisanal baked goods and Tuscan wine. Don’t forget to look up at the emerald-green painted steelwork and colourful umbrellas hanging from the ceiling.

Centuries of trading in Livorno have resulted in a number of iconic local delicacies not found elsewhere in Tuscany. Trying Livorno’s signature dish cacciucco (fish and tomato soup served on thick slices of bread) is a must, as is baccalà alla livornese (fried cod in tomato). No street-food tour of Livorno would be complete without sampling a torta di ceci (thick chickpea pancake, crispy around the edges) also know as a cinque e cinque.

Before the market closes at 2pm, enjoy a sit-down lunch at Alle Vettovaglie, a casual spot where they serve genuine Livornese food for very affordable prices.

Seafront Strolls

Seafront terrace

While much of Livorno’s shoreline is taken over by industrial docks and ferry terminals, it’s worth heading to the spectacular Terrazza Mascagni for an evening passeggiata – the very Italian tradition of a leisurely, people-watching stroll. Complete with 34,000 black-and-white tiles, the 1920s promenade is the world’s largest checkerboard floor, with views over the faraway islands of Gorgona and Capraia on a clear day.

TORTA DI CECI

Livorno’s torta di ceci is popular all along the Tyrrhenian and Ligurian coasts. The name – ‘five and five’ – comes from the 1930s, when workers would fuel up on 5 lire of bread and 5 lire of chickpea filling.

Though it’s no longer quite that cheap, there’s always a queue outside Gagarin, where their €2.70 sandwiches have been flying out the door since the humble bakery opened in 1959.

Meanwhile, just over the canal, Seghieri rivals Gagarin for the title of best cinque e cinque in town, with a few tables and wood-fired pizzas as well.

Eating Seafood in Livorno

Melafumo: Adorned with Italian Communist Party memorabilia, this osteria is a great place to eat traditional seafood for a modest price. 1-3pm & 8pm-midnight Thu-Tue €

Azzighe: This refined osteria at the feet of Fortezza Nuova is the place to try unusual seafood combinations paired with great wines. 7.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat €€

Il Sottomarino: This homely trattoria serves hefty portions of Livornese sea dishes a stone’s throw away from Piazza della Repubblica. dinner Wed-Fri, lunch Sat & Sun €€

La Perla dell’Ostricaio: Across from Terrazza Mascagni, this fine-dining seafood restaurant is a great place to have dinner after a beach day. 11am-3pm & 7pm-midnight €€€

Fortress Fun

Party at the castle

Livorno counts two fortresses: Fortezza Vecchia (fortezzavecchia.it), constructed adjacent to the port to a design by Antonio de Sangallo the Elder in the 16th century, but incorporating an 11th-century watchtower from a previous fortress on the site, and the Fortezza Nuova (fortezzanuova.it), built for the Medicis between 1590 and 1604 in the Venezia Nuova quarter (aka Piccola Venezia), a tangle of small canals built using Venetian methods of reclaiming land from the sea. Both fortresses are open to visitors free of charge.

As well as acting as historic sites that tell the city’s story, both fortresses are also alive and kicking as edgy arts and culture venues. They house cafes, bars and pop-up food trucks, and host many cultural events, especially in summer, when their calendars are packed with concerts, talks, theatre, art exhibitions, movie screenings, comedy shows and more. Check the individual websites to find out what’s happening during your visit.

Terrazza Mascagni | ANDREA TOSI/shutterstock ©

Maritime Treasures

A city museum

The Museo della Città di Livorno opened in 2018 in the canal-lined Venetian quarter. Harking back to the city’s maritime splendour and Medici heyday, you’ll find a permanent collection of 600 artworks and artefacts. Highlights include the Florentine architect Buontalenti’s city plans from the 16th century, still the footprint of the city today, Pino Pascali’s Great Reptile, and the Italian Communist Party’s first-ever flag, stitched by comrades from Livorno in 1921. As impressive as anything on display is the Bottini dell’Olio building itself, an 18th-century warehouse commissioned by Cosimo III. Interactive children’s activities and guided tours make this a family-friendly option for a rainy day.

COSMOPOLITAN LIVORNO

When Livorno was founded by the Medici, all it lacked was a population. To grow this new port and strengthen their free maritime trade, Grand Duke Ferdinando of Tuscany attracted the underdogs who weren’t welcome elsewhere.

To those who moved to Livorno, he granted pardons for crimes and debts, tax exemptions, and freedom of religion. He opened the doors to criminals and traders, as well as Jews from all over Europe (particularly those who were running from the Spanish Inquisition), who were not confined to a ghetto in Livorno, but could coexist with other religions, each free to build their places of worship.

Since its founding, Livorno was a true melting pot, with countless identities and cultures blending together in a rich tapestry.

Drinking in Livorno

Il Barroccino: A central cocktail bar and enoteca (wine bar) great for a chill aperitivo or post-dinner hangout. Snacks feature local produce. 6-11pm Tue-Sun

Fortezza Elettrica: Inside the historic Fortezza Nuova, this edgy bar-club plays music and specialises in tequila cocktails. hours vary, open daily

Cantina Nardi: At this enoteca, have a glass of wine from the large collection of bottles with a platter of stuzzichini (snacks). 8am-4pm & 5-10pm Mon-Sat

Alphonse: This trendy canal-side aperitivo spot turns into a late-night drinking den with live music and experimental cocktails. 7pm-12.30am

A STROLL IN LITTLE VENICE

Take a walk around Livorno’s historic La Venezia neighbourhood – the Venetian-style network of canals.

START Piazza della Repubblica

END Cattedrale di San Francesco

LENGTH 1.6km; 3 hours

Start in grand 1 Piazza della Repubblica, with Medici statues at each end. From here, follow the historic moat around to 2 Fortezza Nuova, a vast pentagonal red-brick fortress that retains the charm and layout given to it by Bernardo Buontalenti in the 16th and 17th centuries.

Continuing on your walk, the 3 Chiesa di Santa Caterina with its thick stone walls and prominent dome on the western side of Piazza dei Domenicani is your next landmark. The Medicis commissioned its construction, but they ran out of money before the facade could be covered in marble. Venture inside to admire Giorgio Vasari’s luminous altarpiece detailing the coronation of the Virgin Mary.

Just a little further on, 4 Museo della Città di Livorno breathes new life into a magnificent 18th-century olive-oil warehouse and baroque church. If you look down Viale Caprera from the museum, you’ll get a glimpse of Fortezza Vecchia, a medieval fort and tower dating to the 11th century. Instead of heading there, weave through graffiti-lined streets and over canal bridges to the 5 Duomo, the Cattedrale di San Francesco. Inside, look out for Fra Angelico’s early Renaissance fresco Christ Crowned with Thorns in the Eucharist chapel.

Beyond Livorno

Slow tourism, slow food, Super Tuscan wines and oils: welcome to the Etruscan Coast.

Take your time slowly driving south along the coast and stop wherever you wish. Otherwise, taking the train south of Livorno, you can be on the beaches of Castiglioncello or Cecina within 30 minutes, snacking on fritti di mare (fried seafood) with your toes in the sand as the sun goes down. Heading inland, a car gives you the freedom to weave through vineyards and olive groves, and hop between medieval hilltop villages like Bolgheri, Slow Food agriturismi (farm stays) and ancient thermal spas like Sassetta or Venturina. If you enjoy wine, embark on the promising 150km-long Strada del Vino (wine road), which weaves through vineyards and olive-oil farms between Livorno and Piombino.

GETTING AROUND

Driving along Via Aurelia, a Roman road that traces along the coast all the way down to Rome, is enjoyable and usually not so traffic-heavy outside of high season. Regular regional trains from Livorno stop at Castiglioncello, Cecina, Bolgheri, San Vincenzo and Piombino, among other destinations, but note that Bolgheri train station is misleadingly not in the town itself, but on the outskirts of Marina di Bibbona, where you can take a taxi to the hilltop town (buses are few and far between).

Etruscan CoastTIME FROM LIVORNO: 15 MINS – 1 HR jpg

Lazy beach days

As you leave Livorno’s city centre behind, passing colourful Liberty-style villas then pine forest, you will soon reach long expanses of beach, dotted with clubs, villas and even a castle or two.

Lovely Castiglioncello, 30km south of Livorno, is one of Tuscany’s most popular seaside towns. Stop at a beachside establishment here to enjoy the crystalline sea and golden sand, perhaps paired with a lunch of spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams) directly on the beach. In July and August, you’ll have a hard time parking close to the beach; instead try the town’s main parking area just below the train station.

Continuing south you’ll reach Rosignano and its Vada hamlet, with 5km of white-coloured sand and turquoise water at Spiagge Bianche, which contrasts starkly with the nearby beaches of Marina di Cecina, Marina di Bibbona and San Vincenzo. All these coastal towns have a small centre and long seasides populated with beach clubs, restaurants and trattorias popular with families.

If you want to avoid endless rows of lettini (beach deckchairs) and ombrelloni (beach parasols), venture further down south to Parco di Rimigliano, the natural area between San Vincenzo and Baratti, and follow the scented pinewood forest to more unconquered coves. You’ll find kilometres of free, dog-friendly and nudist beaches. If you need a respite from the sun, have a picnic or play in the pinewood. If you are travelling with children, they will love the Cavallino Matto amusement park in Marina di Castagneto Carducci.

The Wine RoadTIME FROM LIVORNO: 40 MINS – 1 HR jpg

Drive inland to medieval towns

Drive inland and take the ‘La California’ exit and proceed towards Bibbona – the town’s uphill hamlet (not the marina which is on the opposite side). Park by the 15th-century Chiesa di Santa Maria della Pietà and take a peek inside before hiking the small but steep way to the town’s picturesque centre. Narrow alleyways are decorated by bare-brick houses and populated by cats. Look for signs of the Templars who once dwelled here and visit the Church of Sant’Ilario, a tiny pieve (rustic parish) standing since the 10th century.

From Bibbona, follow the Strada del Vino (lastradadelvino.com) south and drive through lavender fields and vineyards; soon you’ll enter the Bolgheri DOC region, where this refined Super Tuscan red wine is produced. Stop at a vineyard or agriturismo such as Osteria dei Merli or Bolgheri Green for lunch, join a wine-tasting experience or – if you’re here in harvest season (typically late August until late September) – take part in the grape harvest.

Finally, drive through the iconic double line of cypresses culminating in Castello di Bolgheri, at the entrance of Bolgheri town. Stop here for a passeggiata in the tiny centre then take a coffee or aperitivo break in the square in the shadow of the castle (which is privately owned and sadly cannot be visited). If you feel like visiting another medieval hilltop town, the nearby Castagneto Carducci is just as picturesque.

WHITE SANDS EXPLAINED

The Spiagge Bianche in Vada, part of the Rosignano Marittimo municipality, are some of Tuscany’s most striking (and most photographed) beaches. The reason for the Caribbean-like white sand in Vada (in comparison to the beige-coloured sands in nearby Castiglioncello and Marina di Cecina, for example) is the nearby Solvay factory. The Belgian-owned business, inaugurated in 1914, is Europe’s biggest factory producing soda ash, chlorine and baking soda. The centenarian production has led to the constant disposal of production waste in the nearby areas, contaminating the land and the sea with arsenic, mercury, selenium and other polluting metals. Even so, the regional environmental protection agency ARPAT describes the water quality as ‘excellent’.

Eating on the Coast & the Wine Road

Ott88tto Marina di Castagneto Carducci: This restaurant close to the seaside serves delicious seafood dishes. hours vary, open daily €€

Fito: Chic plant-based restaurant on the grounds of Castello Pasquini in Castiglioncello. 6pm-1am Tue-Sun €

La Capannina: A great option in Marina di Cecina to watch the sunset on the beach. The menu is all local seafood. hours vary Tue-Sun €€

Osteria del Tasso: A refined restaurant in the countryside outside Bolgheri with lots of meat options and an excellent wine selection. 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm €€€

Val di CorniaTIME FROM LIVORNO: 1 HR jpg

Etruscan archaeology

When visiting the Costa degli Etruschi, do as the Etruschi do – or at least, see how they did. The Etruscans lived here for centuries before the Ancient Romans started conquering nearby lands; from the Etruscans, the Romans learnt many arts as well as engineering and architecture. Today most of what is left of the Etruscan civilisation is their necropoleis and their contents.

In the green area of Val di Cornia, one hour south of Livorno, many Etruscan sites have been grouped together in the vast Parco Archeologico di Baratti e Populonia (parchivaldicornia.it; €8-27). The park offers various itineraries based on duration and hiking difficulty; it’s possible to explore solo or join a guided tour for the same price – although it’s best to call in advance for an English-language guide. Park admission price depends on age and how many sites you want to visit. The ticket will also give you a 50% discount for the other parks in Val di Cornia. Wear a hat and bring a reusable water bottle, as the sun can be scorching in summer and there is little shade.

Park highlights include ruins of Roman temples and a domus at the Acropolis of Populonia (visit time: one hour and a half), where children will also find a themed game to play as they explore the site. At the Necropolis of San Cerbone you can walk around various different types of Etruscan tombs, learn about the ancient iron mines, and even enter the monumental Tomba dei Carri (only in July/August and when accompanied by a tour guide); as you wait for your guided tour to start, you can take longer paths (two hours) through the woods.

Bibbona | Simona Bottone/shutterstock ©

ETRUSCAN POPULONIA

Populonia was one of the 12 Etruscan cities in Etruria (pre-Roman Tuscany), and the only Etruscan town built on the coast. The city’s original name, Fofluna, derives from Fufluns, the Etruscan god of wine. While not as well preserved as other Etruscan sites, Populonia still shows signs of what made it a great trading city: iron mining. Traces of the archaic metallurgical process can be seen as shiny slag on the ground. After Rome expanded its hegemony over Etruria, so great was Populonia that it was granted permission to continue producing its own currency. The city’s decline started in the 1st century BCE, when Populonia sided with Mario, the losing party in Rome’s first civil war.

Drinking Bolgheri DOC Wine

Michele Satta: At this historic winery, you can choose between three different types of tasting experiences (€20 to €90).

I Greppi: Learn how wine is made at this innovative and eco-sustainable winery before your private wine tasting.

Tenuta Guado al Tasso: The Chianti powerhouse Antinori family owns this winemaking estate where you can join a bespoke visit and wine tasting.

Enoteca Tognoni: If you don’t have time for a tour, have a glass of Bolgheri or Sassicaia DOC and some local food at this central restaurant in the town of Bolgheri.

Elba

NATURE | BAYS | SWIMMING & HIKING

With its beach-laced coves, azure waters, hairpin-bend motoring, vineyards, a 1018m mountain (Monte Capanne), mind-bending views and fine seafaring cuisine, the island of Elba is something of a paradise. The third-largest Italian island after Sicily and Sardinia, 224-sq-km Elba is divided into seven municipalities inhabited by 30,000 permanent residents. Though the island welcomes three million tourists every year, it is yet to be fully conquered by humans. Thankfully, Elbani have left nature untouched, rather than create space for tourist infrastructure, and the island favours a more sustainable tourism. That’s where Elba’s charm lies: visitors are immersed in nature, and there is something for all tastes, from wild windswept cliffs and chestnut forests, to sandy coves, azure waters and charming harbours. The island is popular with seaside lovers, hikers, cyclists and Slow Food enthusiasts.

You’d be smart to avoid Elba during high season (July andAugust), when many Italians flock to the island to decamp for the holidays, beach clubs burst, roads are jam-packed and hotels can charge even double their average rate. The mild climate on Elba allows for a more relaxed summer break in June or September, but the island is no less beautiful in autumn (when grapes and olives are harvested) and winter – just less equipped, as many hospitality establishments close for the season.

SIGHTS

1Cala dell’Innamorata

2Capo d’Enfola

3Forte Falcone

4Museo della Vecchia Officina

5Pareti

6Spiaggia della Biodola

7Spiaggia della Paolina

8Spiaggia di Capo Bianco

9Spiaggia di Cavoli

10Spiaggia di Fetovaia

11Spiaggia di Patresi

12Spiaggia di Sansone

13Spiaggia di Spartaia

14Spiaggia La Sorgente

15Villa dei Mulini

SLEEPING

16B&B Casa Gianfranca

17Baia Bianca Suites

18Boutique Hotel Ilio

19Hotel del Golfo

20Hotel Villa Ottone

21Tenuta delle Ripalte

EATING

22Civico TreUnoTre

23MagnEtico Bistrò

24Osteria di Mare Enfola

25Osteria la Miniera del Gusto

DRINKING

26Ancòra Uno

27BerBene

28La Tonnina

29Mordisco

GETTING AROUND

The easiest way to get to Elba is by ferry. From Piombino you can reach various ports on the island, but the best choice is Portoferraio; there are more frequent ferries, and you’ll find more choices of accommodation, plus shops and other amenities. It is also possible to fly to Elba, but flights are scarce and from select airports only.

On the island, you will need a car or scooter to get around. You can rent your vehicle of choice in Portoferraio or take your car on the ferry. Hiking and biking trails are great if you’re experienced.

TOP TIP

Try to see as much of the island as you can – don’t stay in one place; go to a different town every day. If you are renting a car, choose a small one – the panoramic streets are narrower than they seem.

Napoleonic Grandeur

In the emperor’s shoes

Portoferraio, the largest town and port on the island, contains much of Elba’s history and a walk through the streets of the historic fishing harbour is a must. Climb the hill to the 16th-century Forte Falcone, built by the Medici family, and admire the view from the highest point in Portoferraio, then walk over to Villa dei Mulini, the palace where Napoleon Bonaparte lived during his 10-month exile on the island. Today it operates as a museum, and while it isn’t as impressive as Napoleon’s residences elsewhere, the villa is worth checking out for history enthusiasts who will appreciate the lavish ballroom and botanical gardens with views out across the sea. Finish with a walk down towards the docks and promenade the lively Calata Mazzini, where many restaurants and bars have tables overlooking the sea.

FIND YOUR BEACH

Long sandy bays, windswept headlands, secluded coves and pebbly peninsulas are all at your disposal. But with 147km of glorious coastline and 126 beaches to visit, how do you choose? Luckily, there’s an app to help you make informed decisions: Elba Spiagge (Beaches in Elba) provides up-to-the-minute reports on weather conditions across the island, right down to which way the wind is blowing on any given beach.

Given the natural diversity that Elba provides, choose a different spot every day, so as to experience a wider range of landscapes, beach types and activities. Plan ahead according to how many days you have in Elba, but check out the app every day to determine exactly where to go.

EATING IN ELBA: RESTAURANTS

Osteria di Mare Enfola: (Portoferraio) The incredible view of Elba’s northwestern coast is the highlight here, along with the super-fresh seafood. 12.30-2.30pm & 7-10pm €€

Osteria la Miniera del Gusto: (Rio Marina) This homely restaurant with plenty of seafood options is the place for a quick bite on the eastern side of the island. hours vary €€

Civico TreUnoTre: (Portoferraio) A chic spot with great seafood and meat options. Try the carbonara with truffle if you want a break from fish. 7.30-10.30pm €€

MagnEtico Bistrò: (Porto Azzurro) This trendy vegetarian bistro also offers plenty of vegan and gluten-free options, plus a beach view. 7-10pm Tue-Sun €

Beach Vibes

Swim, snorkel and sunbathe

Closest to Portoferraio, Spiaggia di Capo Bianco has striking white rocks and cliffs – it’s a good (but sometimes crowded) option if you only have a couple of hours to spare. Capo d’Enfola is not far beyond; here the clear sea and strong breeze are popular for water sports.

Ten kilometres west of Portoferraio you’ll find the beach town Procchio and the adjoining resort Biodola, with lovely sandy beaches, clear water and tennis courts. West of Procchio, the road hugs cliffs above Spartaia and Paolina (named after Napoleon’s sister), beautiful little beaches requiring a steep climb down.

Further afield, other top picks include the three sandy coves of Morcone, Pareti and Cala dell’Innamorata, framed by sweet-smelling pine trees. On Elba’s northern extremity, Cavo is worth considering if you want to take a ferry straight there and stay put. A walk away, Spiaggia di Frugoso is a dreamy spot looking onto tiny Isola dei Topi. Active types may like to be based around Porto Azzurro and Narengo for the best windsurfing, canoeing and dinghy sailing off the beach. Pretty Marina di Campo also has a sailing school with small boats for all levels. The crowded beach clubs of Fetovaia and Cavoli also tend to be visited by families, where dinghies, pedalos and canoes can be hired by the hour. Finally, the white shingle beaches of Sansone and Sorgente stand out for their crystal-clear, turquoise waters.

On the weekends, try to head to the beach early in the day, or you’ll find the endless rows of deckchairs already taken and you might have nowhere to lounge save for a tiny strip of unequipped spiaggia libera. It’s not the end of the world, but also not the epitome of relaxation.

Spiaggia di Sansone | Balate.Dorin/shutterstock ©

NAPOLEON NOSTALGIA

Following his first defeat in 1914, the de-throned French Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte chose Elba as his place of exile and was allowed to style himself as emperor of the island. True, it only had 1200 residents, but Napoleon wasted no time building theatres and roads, draining marshes and overhauling the entire school and legal system. Yet just 10 months after arriving, he orchestrated one of history’s best-known prison breaks. Miraculously, it was done in plain sight, under the nose of his British babysitters, with a fleet of ships (some disguised as British vessels) and a small army of loyalists. Elbani still hold much fondness for Napoleon and you can see signs of that devotion etched in every town on the island.

Marine Friends

Dolphins and turtles

Elba sits in the heart of the International Sanctuary of Cetaceans, a protected marine area called Pelagos where sea mammals can safely live, feed and reproduce. In fact, the northern shores of the island are inhabited by many playful cetaceans. The waters around Costa dei Gabbiani (Seagulls Coast), on the southern shore of the island, also seem to be a favourite spot.

To have a respectful encounter with the sea mammals, join a boat tour to explore the many bays of the island. If you sail far enough from the coast you are likely to see dolphins and small whales; it’s more likely that they will engage in low season when there are fewer boats and more tranquil waters, but dolphins have been known to make appearances even in busy July. Dozens of different companies offer both ready-made and bespoke tours in sailboats of all sizes and capacities. Ask at the friendly tourist office in Portoferraio for advice on the best options based on your time and budget availability. The Centro Ricerca Cetacei (Cetaceans Research Centre; centroricercacetacei.org) also hosts courses during its boat trips.

The beaches of Elba are also a prime egg-laying spot for loggerhead turtles. Local organisations like Legambiente Arcipelago Toscano host activities throughout the summer to teach you how to be respectful of turtles, including what to do if you come across a turtle’s nest or even an actual turtle checking on her eggs.

AUTHENTIC ELBAN SCENT

There’s an appealing teal-coloured store that you’ll keep coming across while on the island of Elba: it’s Acqua dell’Elba, an authentic Elban perfume brand created almost 30 years ago by three friends. The founders attempted to capture not only the scent of Elba but also its essence: the sea, the macchia mediterranea, the local produce. It can all be evoked in the irresistible products created by the hands of Elbani on the island. Today the Elban brand counts over 30 stores, bringing the essence of Elba beyond the island, some even outside of Europe.

Drinking in Elba

La Tonnina: (Portoferraio) An elegant cocktail bar by the docks to order any type of drink or snack at all hours of the day while looking out at the water. 8am-2am

BerBene: (Portoferraio) This old enoteca in the historical centre is a great place to have a bottle of Elba wine paired with snacks. 6.30pm-2.30am Thu-Tue

Ancòra Uno: (Porto Azzurro) A refined sushi and cocktail bar offering amazing combinations in mixology and gastronomy. 5pm-2am

Mordisco: (Portoferraio) This trendy bar by the docks serves great cocktails, wines and snacks. hours vary, open daily

WINDSWEPT VISTAS

This scenic route of Elba’s western half can be done by car or scooter in less than two hours – but take the whole day.

START Sant’Andrea

END Patresi

LENGTH 56km; 2 hours

On the north side of the island, the 14km drive from 1 Sant’Andrea to 2 Marciana Marina is a hair-raising experience. Stretch your legs in this seaside town and enjoy the colourful buildings by Piazza della Vittoria. Retrace your journey back up the single winding track to 3 Marciana, the island’s oldest village.

From Piazza della Gogna you can hike for two and a half hours to the island’s highest point, 4 Monte Capanne, or take a cabinway (18 minutes) to reach it, provided you are not afraid of heights. Along a twisting and precipitous road from Marciana is the enchanting mountain village of 5 Poggio, with steep alleyways adorned with colourful flowers and a lively piazza with a stunning panorama of the coast. From here, traverse Elba’s inland byways to the south coast and the turquoise waters of 6 Cavoli.

The dramatic 9km drive along the SP25 between 7 Fetovaia and Patresi is as magnificent as the beaches at either end. There are many spots along the mountain pass to admire the views over Corsica, just as Napoleon once did. Pull off the main road at 8 Colle d’Orano and head to the sea at 9 Patresi in time to catch one of Elba’s most famous sunsets from the wild and rocky beach.

Magnet Mines

Journey to the centre of the Earth

On the southernmost part of Elba, in the municipality of Capoliveri, there are ancient mines of magnetite, the mineral used to make magnets. Other than colouring the earth a particular shade of red, the mines offer a unique experience to the ‘centre of the Earth’.

To get some respite from the summer heat, take a guided tour inside the mines below sea level. Start at the Museo della Vecchia Officina (Museum of the Old Workshop), where you can learn the history and process of how magnets used to be made here. This is also the welcome point of the Miniere di Calamita Capoliveri (minieredicalamita.it). Before entering the underground mines, staff will provide you with a safety helmet; make sure you also wear comfortable walking shoes and a jacket, as the temperature inside the mines is around 18°C – which can be quite a drop from the average summer temperature.

There are two route options: an easier path (Percorso 1) and another (Percorso 2) that ventures further into the mine and features many steps and sections with no illumination; make sure to request the experience that aligns with your expectations. In the mines, you will walk the narrow and low tunnels and see the abandoned tracks and carts used to transport the metal.

If going underground does not sound ideal to you, Miniere di Calamita also organises trekking experiences above ground around the area of the mines. You can book excursions online; if you need an English-speaking guide, book well ahead.

Miniere di Calamita Capoliveri | Marion75/shutterstock ©

ELBA WINES

Wine has been produced on Elba for at least 2500 years; the Etruscans made wine on the island and transported it to the mainland, and the Romans followed suit when they took over. Even today, wine produced on the island is considered one of the many treasures of Elba.

When visiting, you should try the following local wines: Aleatico Passito DOCG, the most refined, a red that is usually popped open for big celebrations or during the holidays, and Elba Ansonica DOC, a white that can be dry or sweet, with floral and fruit scents. There is no shortage of enoteche (wine bars) on Elba where you can try local wines; check out BerBene in Portoferraio.

Beyond Elba

The nature reserve around Elba is just as impressive, wilder and more unconquered than Elba itself.

Elba is part of a wider archipelago, the Arcipelago Toscano, consisting of seven proper islands and dozens of smaller isles around them. Most of the archipelago is a nature reserve protected by UNESCO and for this reason it can be hard to travel between the islands. After Elba, the other islands in order of size are Isola del Giglio (further south, in the province of Grosseto, 23 sq km), Capraia (north of Elba, closer to the French island of Corsica, 19 sq km), Montecristo (10 sq km), Pianosa (10 sq km, the closest to Elba), Giannutri (the southernmost island, in the province of Grosseto) and Gorgona (the smallest and northernmost island, right across from Livorno).

GETTING AROUND

Some of the islands are only reachable through private means of transportation, and it’s impossible to dock at some of these without a guided tour. If you want to explore other islands beyond Elba, choose the closest ones. In summer, there are two ferries from Elba to Pianosa (and back) every day, while ferries to Capraia only leave from Elba once a week (usually on Friday), so plan your trips ahead of time, unless you’re sailing your own boat – and in that case, make sure to abide by the rules of the protected area.

CapraiaTIME FROM ELBA: 1½ HRS jpg

Escape the crowds

The centuries-long history of Capraia as a penal colony has protected it from the overtourism that plagues many other Italian islands. And, thanks to the strict regulations on car use and the island’s protected national park status, that isn’t likely to change. The last prisoners left in 1986, when the land was returned to the islanders; today Capraia has a population of just 200 and counts far fewer tourists than Elba.

For water lovers, dreamy beaches and coves like Cala San Francesco and Cala dello Zurletto are perfect for snorkelling and swimming. There are no beach clubs; here you get to commune with the unconquered seaside, so bring your own umbrella if you need a respite from the sun. If you would like a more sophisticated experience, you can rent a boat or participate in a boat tour around the island; for more info see isoladicapraia.it.

For untouched views, trek to Cala del Ceppo or Cala di Portovecchio from the port in around 1½ hours. You can hike on your own, or participate in the initiatives organised by locals and the Parco dell’Arcipelago Toscano, which usually organises walking and hiking experiences on Capraia.

One day is enough to get a sense of Capraia (it’s only 8km long and 4km wide), but a couple more gives you time to explore its rocky beaches and vibrant fishing community, and to relax amid the beautiful natural environment.

An agritourism revolution

Capraia takes its name from the capre (goats) that once populated the island’s craggy hills. The animals had not roamed the place for some time, until Azienda Agricola Il Saracello (facebook.com/IlSaracello) brought a herd from the motherland to revive the old tradition of organic cheesemaking in 2016. They produce local cheeses you won’t find elsewhere.

Look out for the numerous sagre (local food festivals) occurring in summer, where you can meet organic farmers and winemakers like the founders at Azienda Agricola Biologica Valle Di Portovecchio, along with the many islanders creating jobs for the next generation of islanders and giving them a reason to stay. Try their produce and learn about the millennia-old techniques they are reviving.

PianosaTIME FROM ELBA: 45 MINS jpg

The Tuscan Archipelago’s tiny island

Small Pianosa is the only flat island in the Tuscan Archipelago, little more than a sandy strip with a maximum elevation of 29m above sea level. The island was also home to a penal colony and a high-security prison until 2011, when it was entirely closed off. Thanks to this pause in tourism and development, the island retains all its natural beauty and the beaches and trails are next to empty.

A ticket to enter the island (€8) must be purchased before the ferry fare (return €39) as Pianosa is part of a protected park. As such, most of the island’s territory can only be visited while on a guided tour with an authorised guide. On your own, you can visit the village and the white-sand beach at Cala Giovanna. Ferries from Elba and Piombino arrive at Vecchio Porto, a gorgeous little harbour with the island’s only real restaurant, Bar da Brunello, and a smattering of houses.

Cala Giovanna is the only place on the island where swimming and snorkelling are allowed. Enjoy the turquoise waters, with the remains of a Roman villa, a Copper Age necropolis and early Christian catacombs ripe for exploring. Pianosa is also great for snorkelling and diving. The underwater national park is filled with seagrass meadows, protected from trawling and teeming with cuttlefish, moray eels, snappers and other Mediterranean species. You can book snorkelling tours (€15) via infopark.sl3.eu.

Note that to maintain the island’s pristine ecosystem, you cannot leave any rubbish on the island; there are no bins anywhere, so anything you wish to toss, you have to carry with you back to the mainland (or Elba). It’s also forbidden to take anything from Pianosa, be it from land or sea, not even a pebble or a shell. Vehicles are not allowed on the island, nor unauthorised boats near it. Fishing is strictly prohibited, as is swimming on any beach except Cala Giovanna. There may be next to no humans, but there are closely monitored cameras safeguarding the ecosystem.

ANCIENT FOLKLORE

Countless places across the Mediterranean claim Venus’s birth and residency, and the Tyrrhenian Sea off the coast of Tuscany rises to the challenge.

A local legend says that when the goddess of love rose from the waves, she dropped her tiara in a hurry and seven precious stones fell in the sea, creating seven islands off the Tuscan coast. A different version of the legend claims that her pearl necklace, given to her by the Trojan prince Paris, unfastened and the necklace’s pearls became the seven islands of the archipelago.

Divine intervention notwithstanding, the Tuscan Archipelago is Europe’s largest protected marine area and is home to rare and unique species, such as the Neptune’s shaving brush seaweed.

Places We Love to Stay

€ Budget €€ Midrange €€€ Top End

Livorno

Affittacamere Le Streghe Rooms & Art € Lovely concept B&B with a witchy/Halloween theme in the downtown area.

Dogana d’Acqua € Generous homemade breakfasts and quirky decor make this downtown B&B a special find.

Affittacamere il Porto € Livorno’s top hostel option, with a central location, clean dorms and shared kitchen space.

In City B&B € This unpretentious multi-room B&B has a good enough location to visit Livorno on foot.

Agave in Città €€ Soak up Livorno’s Venetian canal quarter at this millennial-friendly space with a hot tub and pool.

Grand Hotel Palazzo €€€ Historic hotel in a belle-époque palazzo looking out on the sea with elegant rooms, a spa, and a terrace with a restaurant and infinity pool.

Etruscan Coast

Paradú EcoVillage & Resort € Nestled in the woods off Castagneto Carducci beach, the chalets here are powered by renewable energy. Perfect for families.

Camping Casa di Caccia €–€€ This village offers everything from bare tent spots, furnished apartments, to a luxurious transparent bubble tent and a private beach outside Bibbona.

Relais Poggio ai Santi €€ This boutique hotel in the San Vincenzo countryside is a gourmand’s dream, with elegant Il Sale restaurant serving home-cured meats and organic homegrown produce.

Villa Tramonto €€ A family-run hotel in San Vincenzo with sea views, a private beach and showers heated by solar panels.

Castello Bonaria €€€ A glistening spa hotel inside a real-life castle in Campiglia Marittima, complete with four-poster beds and a cypress-lined driveway.

Torre di Baratti Bio Resort €€€ A biodynamic farm backdrop and effortlessly elegant suites make this boutique hotel close to the Etruscan sites a worthwhile splurge for total relaxation.

Bolgheri Area

Locanda Etrusca € This B&B in Bibbona is out of a fairytale with a pool and countryside views, plus a buffet-style breakfast.

Il Chiassetto €€ A quaint B&B offering a rare chance to sleep within the medieval hamlet of Bolgheri itself.

Osteria Vecchia Agriturismo €€ A charming farm stay offering fully furnished apartments with a pool and a restaurant.

Strada Giulia 16 €€ Hybrid B&B–boutique hotel in a centuries-old building within Bolgheri’s historic walls.

Relais Sant’Elena €€€ A dreamy hotel on the Tenuta Gardini country estate, where you’ll find exquisite farm-to-table gastronomy and sumptuous cottage-y decor.

Elba

B&B Casa Gianfranca € A lovely three-bedroom B&B outside of Portoferraio with friendly live-in owners. The last part of the way to the B&B is unpaved, but it’s worth it for the peace and quiet.

Boutique Hotel Ilio €€ It’s all about the sleepy beachside location at this simple yet welcoming boutique hotel, set around a leafy courtyard in Sant’Andrea.

Tenuta delle Ripalte €€ A hotel and wine resort in the wild northern extremity of Capoliveri, with glamping, villas, farm stays and a grand old hotel to choose from.

Hotel Villa Ottone €€€ A palatial 19th-century villa overlooking a private beach, where five-star facilities meet wonderfully vintage interiors.

Hotel del Golfo €€€ Huge four-star hotel with private beach access, multiple pools, a restaurant, a sailing school, two tennis courts and a golf club.

Baia Bianca Suites €€€ These chic apartments come with their own private beach in La Biodola as well as a pool, garden and bistro.

Pisa & Northwestern Tuscany

ICONIC CITIES, WILD MOUNTAINS AND SWEEPING BEACHES

Beyond the former city-states that have defined Tuscany’s history lie rugged peaks, sandy beaches and artsy hamlets few people take the time to visit.

Pontremoli | Boris Stroujko/shutterstock ©

During the Middle Ages, pilgrims from the north would enter Tuscany by crossing the 1041m-high Cisa Pass on the Emilia-Romagna border. From there, they walked for weeks to reach Rome. The legendary route known as the Via Francigena heavily influenced the development of many northwestern Tuscan urban centres, including Pontremoli, Lucca and San Miniato, which flourished in medieval times through the exchange of goods and ideas traveling alongside the devotees. This exchange contributed to the construction of the striking fortresses and cathedrals that still dot the diverse landscape of this region. Additionally, the proximity to the Arno river allowed Pisa to amass immense wealth, funnelling riches acquired across the Mediterranean to the banks of Tuscany’s primary river.

But cities are only part of the story. Cutting through northwestern Tuscany are the sharp peaks of the Alpi Apuane (Apuan Alps), the source of precious Carrara marble since Roman times and an endless playground for outdoor enthusiasts. On the hardly accessible slopes of the rugged mountains stretching through the Garfagnana and Lunigiana regions, monumental art and architecture give way to wilderness, offering a picture of Tuscany far different from any cliché you may have stored in your imagination.

Marble quarries, Carrara | Andrea Berg/shutterstock ©

THE MAIN AREAS

PISA

Maritime history around the Leaning Tower.

LUCCA

Medieval charm inside the walls.

CARRARA

Marble mountains and sculpture heritage.

PISTOIA

Romanesque architecture and market atmosphere.

Find Your Way

Our coverage of northwestern Tuscany encompasses the triangle of land stretching between Pisa, Prato and Pontremoli, an area spanning historic cities, coastal towns and remote mountainous villages with few inhabitants.

Plan Your Time

Northwestern Tuscany doesn’t fit neatly into a specific destination category. Next to famous art cities, you can find luxurious beach resorts, opulent baroque villas, and remote hiking trails climbing up rocky mountains.

Lido di Camaiore | Jacopo ventura/shutterstock ©

If You Only Do One Thing

• Take the train to Lucca from either Pisa or Florence and discover the many layers of history that overlap in this charming Tuscan town.

• Go for a passeggiata (stroll) on the 16th-century walls covered by greenery that encircle the entire centre, then step onto the streets that intersect in the City of 100 Churches and explore, starting with the Cattedrale di San Martino, Lucca’s Duomo housing the revered Volto Santo Crucifix and many other precious artworks.

• Climb Torre Guinigi to admire Lucca’s well-preserved architecture from above, then stop for an aperitivo (pre-dinner drink) in the one-of-a-kind square that is Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, built on top of an ancient Roman amphitheatre dating back to the 2nd century CE.

Three Days to Travel Around

• Dedicate a few hours to discover the marble wonders of Pisa’s Piazza dei Miracoli, from the iconic Leaning Tower to the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo. If weather allows, use the rest of the day to take a bike ride in the nature reserve of San Rossore.

• On your second day drive to Calci to visit the Natural History Museum housed in the town’s Certosa di Calci, then put your hiking boots on and hike up to the Fortezza della Verruca for spectacular views of the coast and the hilly interior.

• On your third day head to Peccioli and track down the pieces of contemporary urban art that adorn this quiet hilltop town. Conclude with a truffle-based dinner in San Miniato before returning to your starting point in Pisa.

If You Have More Time

• With more time available you can visit the mountainous areas of Lunigiana and Garfagnana, two subregions barely touched by international tourism, stretching from the slopes of the Alpi Apuane.

• Set up base in one of the many farm stays in the area of Castelnuovo di Garfagnana and choose your adventure – caving in Grotta del Vento, hiking the Via Vandelli or flying over Lago di Vagli.

• Next cross the mountains to reach Tuscany’s gate in Pontremoli, where mysterious sculptures carry the traces of a lost civilisation. On your way back to Pisa, spend a day or two to rest and recover on one of the beaches along the coast, either in Marina di Pietrasanta or Lido di Camaiore.

Seasonal Highlights

The earlier part of the year is mostly quiet (unless you’re a skier), but as soon as spring picks up, festivals and events start popping up all over the region.

APRIL

Vinci celebrates the birthday of its most famous citizen – Leonardo da Vinci – with screenings, performances and special exhibitions.

JUNE

Santa Luce’s lavender fields turn violet in June, and the music festival La Prima Estate takes place in Camaiore.

JULY

The Lucca Summer Festival draws crowds to the city’s main square for a series of live concerts.

SEPTEMBER

Autumn means chestnut season in Garfagnana, as you’ll notice by looking at any restaurant menu.

OCTOBER

The festival Lucca Comics & Games fills the city with cosplayers roaming the markets and exhibitions.

NOVEMBER

As the white-truffle season reaches its end, San Miniato hosts the important Mostra Mercato Nazionale del Tartufo Bianco.

DECEMBER

Lights, decorated trees and Christmas markets set up in the squares of Pisa, Lucca and Pistoia.

Pisa

MARBLE ARCHITECTURE | MARITIME HISTORY | RENAISSANCE HERITAGE

Travellers landing in Pisa’s Galileo Galilei airport – Tuscany’s busiest – tend to dedicate little time to the city, moving onwards to Florence and other destinations after a brief stop at the iconic Leaning Tower. Yet, reducing Pisa to its globally acknowledged architectural error means missing out on the rich heritage of this once formidable city-state. No matter how crowded and overly photographed, the UNESCO-inscribed Piazza dei Miracoli deserves a few hours, but there is much to see beyond the marble wonders collected on the city’s best-known patch of green. While up to 50% of the city was bombed and destroyed during WWII, traces of Pisa’s legacy are still visible in places like the often-neglected Museo di San Matteo or the Museo delle Navi di Pisa, showcasing archaeological traces of the city’s past as a medieval maritime powerhouse. Outside museum walls, contemporary Pisa is a prestigious research hub that attracts a large student population to its universities, as demonstrated by the lively atmosphere you’ll encounter in its centre, if you choose to give the city a night or two.

HIGHLIGHTS

1Museo delle Navi Antiche

2Museo Nazionale di San Matteo

3Piazza dei Miracoli

SIGHTS

4Battistero di San Giovanni

5Camposanto

6Duomo

7Leaning Tower

8Museo del Calcolo

9Museo della Grafica

10Museo delle Sinopie

11Museo dell’Opera del Duomo

12Orto e Museo Botanico

13Palazzo Blu

14Palazzo della Carovana

15Palazzo dell’Orologio

16Piazza delle Vettovaglie

SLEEPING

17B&B Camilla

18Hostel Pisa Tower

19Hotel Bologna

20Rinascimento B&B

EATING

21Filter Coffee Lab

22Gelateria De’ Coltelli

23I Porci Comodi

24L’Ostellino

25Numeroundici

26Osteria di Culegna

27Pane e Vino

28Rufus

29Trattoria da Stelio

30Trattoria Sant’Omobono

DRINKING

31Jeffer

32La Dolce Vite

33Orzo Bruno

34Scaccomalto

35Volta Pagina

SHOPPING

36Keramì

37La Galleria del Disco

38L’Orsa Minore

39Luna Nuova

GETTING AROUND

Pisa is a small city and can easily be explored on foot. If you are flying into Pisa’s Galileo Galilei airport, you can reach the city centre by taking the Pisa Mover shuttle linking the terminal with the train station. The trip only takes five minutes and tickets, available from the automatic machine, cost €6.50. From the Pisa Centrale train station you can take either bus 2 or bus 5 to reach the city centre in under 10 minutes.

TOP TIP

If you are coming by train from Florence and planning to visit Piazza dei Miracoli, get off at Pisa San Rossore instead of Pisa Centrale. This station is a 10-minute walk to the Duomo and the Leaning Tower.

Five Centuries of Tuscan Art

Admire medieval and Renaissance art

Despite housing one of Italy’s most valuable collections of medieval art, Museo Nazionale di San Matteo (adult/child €5/2) doesn’t receive much attention from visitors. The precious collection of paintings and sculptures produced between the 12th and 16th centuries includes works by Masaccio, Beato Angelico, Benozzo Gozzoli, Nicola and Giovanni Pisano, Donatello and Michelozzo. It’s contained in a former Benedictine convent funded in the 11th century, overlooking the Arno – a more fitting place could hardly have been chosen.

TOP EXPERIENCE
PIAZZA DEI MIRACOLI

The monumental oddity that is Pisa’s Leaning Tower draws thousands of people to Piazza dei Miracoli daily, but the UNESCO-inscribed square containing the torre pendente has a lot more to offer besides pretending to hold up the tilting cylinder. Take a stroll through the manicured gardens to discover some of the city’s most precious marble treasures.

Piazza dei Miracoli | Balate.Dorin/shutterstock ©

DON’T MISS

The Leaning Tower

Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta

Museo dell’Opera del Duomo

Battistero di San Giovanni

Camposanto

Museo delle Sinopie

PRACTICALITIES

Scan this QR code to buy tickets online via Piazza dei Miracoli’s official website.

The Leaning Tower

Climbing up the 251 steps leading to the top of Pisa’s unchallenged landmark may feel a little unsettling given that the tower looks like it’s just about to fall on its side. But the 56m structure has been tilting since its early days – medieval architects already realised that the tower was sinking under its own weight in 1178, five years after construction began. The tower was completed in 1370, but it was only finally stabilised in the late 20th century.

The Duomo

Pisa’s thousand-year-old Duomo, also known as Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, stands as the city’s Romanesque symbol in the heart of Piazza dei Miracoli. Influencing the style of many later Tuscan churches, Pisa’s Duomo was built starting in 1063 to celebrate the successful expedition of the Pisan navy to Sicily. As you can read from the epigraph by the entrance, many of the materials used for the construction were acquired during that journey. The elliptical dome topping the cathedral was added in 1380 and a complete restoration of the interior was completed in 2018, bringing the golden ceiling back to its original splendour.

Museo dell’Opera del Duomo

Spread across 26 rooms, the vast collection of the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo exhibits sculptures that once adorned the cathedral. The Porta di San Ranieri, a bronze heavyweight completed by Bonanno Pisano in the 12th century and one of the few artworks to survive the 1595 fire, sets the tone at the entrance of the museum. Inside, find sculptures by Nicola and Giovanni Pisano, and medieval liturgical furnishings. Splendid views of the Leaning Tower await in the loggia.

SOLVING THE TILT

After its completion in 1370, Pisa’s bell tower continued to slowly tilt southward for over six centuries. Only in the 1990s did engineers find a solution to stabilise its foundation through a technique known as ‘controlled sub-excavation’, which involved the removal of small quantities of soil from beneath the north side of the structure. Over the past three decades the tower has straightened by as much as 4cm, and is now tilted by ‘only’ 3.97 degrees – it’s now considered as stable as it has ever been.

Battistero di San Giovanni

Standing in front of the Duomo, the circular Battistero first appeared in Piazza dei Miracoli in 1152, maintaining its record as the world’s largest baptistery up to this day. Nicola Pisano worked on some of the building’s most outstanding features throughout the 13th century, including the intricate Carrara marble pulpit, showcasing scenes from the New Testament. It’s worth climbing to the upper floor to listen to the echo effects produced by the double dome.

Camposanto

Piazza dei Miracoli’s monumental cemetery was first established in 1277 as the resting place for Pisa’s ruling classes. Their tombstones and chapels were adorned with invaluable artworks, sculptures and archaeological findings until a US grenade set Camposanto on fire during WWII. While some of the Greco-Roman sarcophagi stolen by Pisa’s sailors survived, most of the paintings adorning the cloister were nearly destroyed. Only 60 years after the end of the war did a major renovation project start – among the works that were brought back to light, the most impressive is Buonamico Buffalmacco’s Il Trionfo della Morte (The Triumph of Death), an 84-sq-metre fresco depicting demons democratically attacking people from all walks of life – the horror scenes are meant to remind watchers of their vulnerability.

TOP TIPS

• Book your time slot in advance if you are planning to climb the tower, as limited spots are available daily.

• Getting to the tower’s 8th floor and back takes about half an hour. You are not allowed to take any bags inside (just your camera).

• Visiting Pisa’s Duomo is free, but you’ll still need a ticket. You can enter by showing the ticket of any other Piazza dei Miracoli attraction or ask for a free pass at the ticket office on-site.

• From a great view over Piazza dei Miracoli, climb on the city walls.

Museo delle Sinopie

Learn about the process behind the creation of Renaissance frescoes by entering this fascinating museum showcasing a rare collection of sinopie, the preparatory sketches drawn on walls in red pigment before the final layer of paint is applied. Many of the unfinished works exhibited at Museo delle Sinopie were recovered by the Opera della Primaziale Pisana during the 2009 restoration of the cemetery and include preliminary drawings by Renaissance artists such as Benozzo Gozzoli, Taddeo Gaddi and Spinello Aretino.

Conquering the Mediterranean

The legacy of Pisa’s past as a maritime powerhouse

Since antiquity, Pisa has been defined by its relationship with the sea. From the second half of the 10th century, the city began expanding its military and commercial activities in the Mediterranean, rapidly developing into one of Italy’s most powerful maritime republics. Today traces of Pisa’s imperial ambitions are scattered all over the city – from the Duomo itself, whose construction was financed by the sacking of the Sicilian city of Palermo in 1063, to the Cittadella Vecchia and the restored Arsenali della Repubblica di Pisa, point of departure for ships bound to Corsica, Sardinia, the Balearic Islands, North Africa, Greece and the Middle East.

In 1998, while excavating an area near Pisa San Rossore train station, the municipality uncovered a large body of Roman ships that had been hiding below ground for centuries. Eight well-preserved vessels dating back to the period between the 3rd century BCE and the 7th century CE were brought back to light, plus dozens of fragments of other ships used by Pisans during the maritime republic’s heyday. The discovery forms the core of the collection of the Museo delle Navi Antiche di Pisa (navidipisa.it; adult/child €10/5), housed inside the former Medicean arsenals. Featuring over 800 exhibits, the museum highlights the city’s relationship with the sea through objects used by sailors roaming the Mediterranean.

MARKETS & SHOPPING IN PISA

Mercato delle Vettovaglie: Pisa’s historic market gathers fruit and vegetable vendors to central Piazza delle Vettovaglie every day apart from Sunday.

Luna Nuova: Take some Tuscany home with a pair of cypress earrings from this workshop making handcrafted jewellery, echoing countryside landscapes.

L’Orsa Minore: An inspiring independent bookstore specialising in (mostly Italian) travel literature and maps, located steps away from Borgo Stretto in Via Mercanti.

La Galleria del Disco: Find rare and new records, plus CDs, DVDs and band T-shirts in this music store in the heart of the city.

Keramì: Run by the Cobalto cultural association, Keramì functions as both a ceramics workshop and an atelier exhibiting the work of local artists. Try your hand at pottery making or browse through the collection.

EATING IN PISA: STREET FOOD & QUICK BITES

L’Ostellino: With freshly baked bread brimming with fillings, Pisa’s best known sandwich shop is justifiably famous. 11am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun €

I Porci Comodi: Grab a sandwich to go or enjoy one of the hearty stews with a glass of red on the side. This option is steps away from Piazza dei Cavalieri. 11am-10.30pm €

ArtBurger: If you like your burgers served with a side of contemporary art, sit at one of the outdoor tables right in front of artist Keith Haring’s wall mural. noon-3pm & 7-11pm €

Pane e Vino: Expect flavours from northern Tuscany and Maremma – charcuterie boards, pasta and meats with carefully selected wines. dinner Wed, lunch & dinner Thu-Sun €€

Pisa from Above

Take a walk on Pisa’s ancient city walls

Stretching for approximately 3km, Pisa’s city walls (muradipisa.it; €5) were constructed in various stages between 1154 and 1284. They now stand among the oldest fully preserved city walls in Italy. It is possible to take a walk on the 11m-tall crenellated walls to get a bird’s-eye view of the city’s tallest monuments by climbing up the stairs in one of the four entry points – Torre Santa Maria in Piazza dei Miracoli, Piazza delle Gondole, Torre Piezometrica or Torre di Legno. Torre di Legno, Torre Piezometrica and Torre di Santa Maria are wheelchair accessible. It’s best to buy your tickets on the spot, as the walkway closes during rainy and windy days for safety reasons.

The Arno and Cittadella Vecchia | Kiev.Victor/shutterstock ©

SEARCHING FOR GALILEO

Polymath Galileo Galilei was born in Pisa in 1564 and the city still proudly claims the Renaissance astronomer. A plaque on Casa Ammannati, in Via Giusti, marks Galilei’s birthplace. Nearby is the Palazzo della Sapienza, where Galileo researched the theories that would become the foundation of his treatise Sidereus Nuncius. Recently, the former municipal slaughterhouses have been converted into the Cittadella Galielana, a science centre that includes the Museo del Calcolo, showcasing instruments and rare inventions used for astronomical research by Galileo’s intellectual heirs – find the Pisan Electronic Calculator, Italy’s first machine of the kind. Finally find the new mural by Brazilian artist Kobra in Via Pellico, depicting rainbow-faced Galileo looking at the sky through the Leaning Tower.

EATING IN PISA: TRATTORIE

Osteria di Culegna: This family-run osteria is a safe bet for tasty Tuscan food. Expect exquisite ravioli and a wide selection of meaty mains. 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm €€

Trattoria Sant’Omobono: A lively market takes place every day in Piazza Sant’Omobono – walk past the stalls to find this historic trattoria. 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm €€

Numeroundici: At this historic eatery, order at the counter, find a seat at one of the wooden tables and enjoy one of the daily specials. noon-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 7-10.30pm Sat €

Trattoria da Stelio: Stelio has spent most of his life inside this old-school trattoria, serving loyal customers that come for the simple, traditional dishes. noon-3pm Mon-Fri €€

Exotic & Medicinal Greenery

Explore one of Italy’s oldest botanical gardens

Offering a pleasant respite from the summer heat, Pisa’s Orto e Museo Botanico (ortomuseobot.sma.unipi.it; adult/child €4/2) is an urban oasis blending nature and history. Funded in 1543 by naturalist Luca Ghini under the orders of Cosimo I de’ Medici, it is among the world’s oldest university-managed botanical gardens. Centenary cedar trees, succulents imported from Africa and the Americas, and medicinal herbs surround the 18th-century Palazzo delle Conchiglie (Palace of the Shells), which houses the museum tracing the history of botanical research through a vast collection of herbaria.

THE REGATTA OF THE ANCIENT ITALIAN MARITIME REPUBLICS

Each year in summer since 1956, four teams representing the once-powerful Italian maritime republics – Amalfi, Genova, Pisa and Venice – challenge each other in a regatta on boats known as galeoni which are painted with colours of the republics’ former flags. Eight rowers per team race in the seas and rivers surrounding what were once some of the most important ports in the Mediterranean. The historical reenactment is hosted on rotation by the four cities with ceremonial parades in traditional costumes. Learn more at repubblichemarinare.org.

Graphic, Contemporary & Urban Art

Eclectic works south of the river

Cross Ponte Solferino and walk east along the Lungarno Gambacorti to reach the aptly named Palazzo Blu (palazzoblu.it; adult/child €5/3), a former aristocratic residence transformed into Pisa’s contemporary art hub hosting regular exhibitions of comics, photography and street art year-round. Not far from Palazzo Blu is Pisa’s most famous mural – Keith Haring’s colourful hymn to life, Tuttomondo, which adorns the wall of the Chiesa di Sant’Antonio. The celebrated American artist painted the 180-sq-metre wall in four days, just a few months before his death in 1990. By returning to the Lungarno you’ll find the Museo della Grafica (museodellagrafica.sma.unipi.it; adult/child €5/3), an exhibition space containing one of Italy’s most important public collections of contemporary graphic art originating from the University of Pisa’s Gabinetto Disegni e Stampe (Cabinet of Drawings & Prints) in the 1950s.

COFFEE, Gelato, Beer, Wine & Cocktails IN PISA

Rufus: Local organic cow’s milk is the key ingredient of this artisanal gelato shop, but the vegan fruit sorbetti are also worth trying. noon-midnight €

Gelateria De’ Coltelli: Seasonal flavours served on the riverside in this established gelateria, proudly using only fresh, local raw ingredients. 11am-11pm €

Filter Coffee Lab: Top-notch espresso, breakfast, brunch or lunch are all great excuses to stop at Pisa’s first speciality coffee shop. 8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sun €€

Volta Pagina: A space to relax in Via San Martino, Volta Pagina is a literary cafe hosting regular poetry and live-music nights. noon-midnight Tue-Sun €

Scaccomalto: People come here for the wide selection of craft beers and end up staying for the large portions of pub food. Try the Boy Scout stout. 6pm-1am

Orzo Bruno: The people at Orzo Bruno have been making beer for over two decades; half a dozen varieties are available on tap for you to try. 6pm-1am

Jeffer: Pisa’s best cocktail bar is located on the Lungarno, minutes from the city centre. Enter this funky neon-lit lounge for a nightcap mixed the right way. 6pm-1am

La Dolce Vite: In Piazza Chiara Gambacorti, this enoteca lets you pair a vast selection of Tuscan wines with bruschetta brimming with toppings. 5.30pm-midnight Mon-Sat

ARCHITECTURE BEYOND THE LEANING TOWER

After a few hours spent discovering Piazza dei Miracoli’s marble treasures, leave the torre pendente behind and cross the city on foot to learn how different epochs have shaped Pisa.

START Bagni di Nerone

END Chiesa di Santa Maria della Spina

LENGTH 2km; 2 hours

About 500m east of the Leaning Tower, next to the the 16th-century Porta a Lucca city gate, are the Roman baths known as 1 Bagni di Nerone (Baths of Nero), dating back to the 1st century. Despite the name, Emperor Nero had nothing to do with the baths’ construction, which were built at least two decades after his death. From here walk south to Piazza dei Cavalieri to admire the intricate facade of 2 Palazzo della Carovana designed by Giorgio Vasari in the 1560s, now the entrance to the prestigious Scuola Normale Superiore. Next to it is the 17th-century 3 Palazzo dell’Orologio and the statue of Grand Duke Cosimo I.

Take Via Ulisse Dini to reach 4 Borgo Stretto, central Pisa’s main commercial avenue since the Middle Ages, lined with loggias built under the orders of the Medici. Make your way to 5 Piazza delle Vettovaglie, built in the 16th century to host the city market. Get to the riverside, and after a quick gelato stop at 6 Gelateria de’ Coltelli, cross over Ponte Solferino to find the little 7 Chiesa di Santa Maria della Spina, a prime example of Pisan Gothic architecture that has been overlooking the Arno since 1230. From the church you can loop back to the historic centre via Ponte di Mezzo.

Beyond Pisa

Sea, mountains, art and food – nature and culture become one in Pisa’s surroundings, where queue-free experiences reward those who travel at a slow pace.

The area surrounding the Arno river’s mouth has long been revered for its lush vegetation, seen as both a resource and an oasis. In the 16th century the Medici set up a large estate along the coast, which is still home to thriving fauna and forms the core of a 230-sq-km reserve waiting to be explored on foot or by two wheels. The low mountain range Monti Pisani also offers excellent yet accessible hiking and cycling opportunities. But it’s by reaching the small hilltop towns scattered across the province that you’ll gain access to a perfectly balanced combination of idyllic landscapes, memorable flavours and surprising art, both historical and contemporary.

GETTING AROUND

Trains to Pontedera, San Miniato, Lucca and Viareggio depart from Pisa’s central station. If you plan to exit cities and explore the countryside, however, a car will be needed. By picking up a rental car at Pisa’s airport upon arrival, you’ll be able to go beyond the most famous sites of northwestern Tuscany and visit many of the lesser known corners of this part of the region, from coastal towns to mountain villages.

San RossoreTIME FROM PISA: 15 MINS jpg

Cycle the wild paths of San Rossore Reserve

Covering an area of 23,000 hectares, the Parco Naturale di Migliarino San Rossore Massaciuccoli is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, home to horses, boar, deer and rare plovers that coexist amid the Mediterranean flora. Rent a bike at the San Rossore Visitor Centre (parcosanrossore.org) and dive into the vast pine forest populated by a variety of species. The core of the park is the 3000-hectare Tenuta di San Rossore, once the private hunting grounds of the Medici and later the Lorraine dynasties. As you cycle towards the coast from the visitor centre on one of the many itineraries available – including the picturesque Via del Gombo – you may even spot some dromedaries (Arabian camels). These animals have populated the forests of San Rossore since the early 17th century, when the Bey of Tunis gifted Grand Duke of Tuscany Ferdinando II de’ Medici with the first specimen. The animal adapted to the Pisan climate and Ferdinando II decided to import more dromedaries – nearly 200 of them were roaming San Rossore by the end of the 18th century. The dromedary population declined in the following century, disappearing completely during WWII. The skeleton of the last San Rossore dromedary is now exhibited in the Museo di Storia Naturale della Certosa di Calci, 10km from Pisa. In 2014, three dromedaries were donated to the park and can still be found wandering in the wilderness.

CalciTIME FROM PISA: 15 MINS jpg

A charterhouse of natural history

Nestled under the mountains that rise 10km east of Pisa, the monumental complex known as the Certosa di Calci is an unexpected countryside wonder. Founded in 1366 by the Archbishop of Pisa, this huge charterhouse contained all the the essentials for self-sufficient monastic living – a church, private chapels, pharmacy, a refectory where monks gathered for lunch and serene gardens. Today the structure houses the Museo Nazionale della Certosa Monumentale di Calci (adult/child €12/8), which includes both the historic halls of the monastery and the exhibits of the Museum of Natural History of the University of Pisa. To visit the monastery you’ll need to book a guided tour, while the Museum of Natural History, which includes Italy’s largest freshwater aquarium, can be accessed without reservation.

Parco Naturale di Migliarino San Rossore Massaciuccoli | mazarekic/shutterstock ©

BEST BEACHES OF TUSCANY’S NORTHERN COAST

Spiaggia di Lecciona: Located within the borders of the Parco Naturale di Migliarino San Rossore Massaciuccoli, this freely accessible beach is a favourite among locals looking for a wilder spot.

Lido di Camaiore: Tyrrhenian waves lap the long, sandy beach of this quiet Versilian town, which comes to life every summer with the La Prima Estate music festival.

Marina di Pietrasanta: Enjoy the chilled atmosphere of this family-friendly, 5km-long sandy beach during the day, then stop at the Pontile di Tonfano to admire the sunset in the evening.

Viareggio: The largest resort town found along the coast. Colourful umbrellas dot much of the 10km-long beach stretching along the promenade, along with restaurants, clubs and shops for all pockets.

EATING NEAR SAN ROSSORE

La Bottega del Parco: Sandwiches made with local ingredients originating from the park’s surroundings. 10am-3pm Tue-Fri, to 4.30pm Sat & Sun €

Ristorante L’Ippodromo: Large restaurant located inside the hippodrome right by the tracks serving a meat-heavy menu on Sundays only. noon-2.30pm Sun €€

Ristorante Da Poldino: Run by the same family for generations, Da Poldino serves classic Tuscan dishes. 8pm-midnight Wed-Fri, 12.15-3pm & 8pm-midnight Sat & Sun €€

I Lumi di San Rossore: On the outskirts of Pisa, this large restaurant is all about traditional Tuscan wild game. noon-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Thu & Sun, to 11pm Fri & Sat €€

The Pisans’ eye – and a cold brew

The crumbling Fortezza della Verruca dominates the Monti Pisani from 537m altitude – you should be able to spot it from Calci. It’s admittedly not that high, yet this thousand-year-old abandoned castle used to function as the prime observation spot from which the maritime power could control its dominion. You can climb up to the remains of the castle in a couple of hours from Calci, following a steep path loved by mountain bikers. The structure is not in great condition, but the 360-degree view over the Arno, the Tyrrhenian Sea and the surrounding hills is worth the sweat.

Rewarding yourself with a cold, hoppy brew after the long hike is possible thanks to the people at La Staffetta, a brewery launched in 2019 in a former olive-oil mill in Calci. Set on the banks of the Zambra creek, the taproom is open weekends (from 6pm Friday, Saturday and Sunday).

PontederaTIME FROM PISA: 15 MINS jpg

The birth of an icon

The city of Pontedera doesn’t attract many visitors – its historic centre was bombed multiple times during WWII by Anglo-American forces trying to disrupt its arms industry. Rebuilt over the latter part of the 20th century, it is here that one of Italy’s best-known icons was born. The Vespa scooter, popularised by films such as William Wyler’s Roman Holiday (1953) starring Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn, and Federico Fellini’s La Dolce Vita (1960), was born in Pontedera’s Piaggio factory in 1946. The Museo Piaggio (museopiaggio.it) traces the history of the Vespa through historical archives and five collections, including the earliest models dating back to the 1940s. A 15-minute train ride from Pisa leads to Pontedera’s station – from there, the museum is easily reached on foot in five minutes. Book your visit in advance online.

BOCELLI’S SILENT THEATRE

About 15 minutes south from Peccioli is the hamlet of Lajatico, a town primarily known for housing the Teatro del Silenzio (teatrodelsilenzio.it). Born from an idea of Lajatico’s best-known citizen, the opera tenor Andrea Bocelli, the minimalistic, open-air arena surrounded by cypress-dotted hills breaks its silence in July, when Bocelli holds his yearly concert with many international guests invited on stage.

The theatre is worth a quick stop even when inactive – its spectacular setting and central artwork sit elegantly within the countryside view – but for full effect check the dates of the festival online.

VicopisanoTIME FROM PISA: 20 MINS jpg

Brunelleschi’s fort

As you drive east from Pisa you may notice an imposing tower standing above the flat agricultural lands in the surroundings of Pontedera. This castle, dominating the hamlet of Vicopisano, is known as the Rocca del Brunelleschi (adult/child €6/4) – the architect of Florence’s Duomo designed the fortification in the early 15th century after Florentines finally conquered the strategically positioned village, following nine months of battles with Pisa. The monumental defensive structure opens to visitors on weekends between April and November.

PECCIOLI: AN URBAN ART WALK

Over the past three decades, the hilltop village of Peccioli has brought in Italian and international artists to turn its historic centre into an open-air museum of art.

START Piazza del Carmine

END Piazza del Carmine

LENGTH 3km; 2–3 hours

In 1997 the sleepy town of Peccioli began its transformation into a contemporary art hub, funding creative installations small and large. Since then, more than 60 artworks have been added to the urban landscape. Start outside the 1 Chiesa della Madonna del Carmine at Piazza del Carmine and walk south to Via del Carmine to find Angelo Casciello’s 2 Tempio del Vento (Wind temple; 2009) standing on a terrace overlooking the valley. Pop down Via Borgherucci to reach the 3 Museo d’Arte Sacra and Vittorio Corsini’s eye-catching installation Lo sguardo di Peccioli (2017).

Head back to Corso Matteotti and enter the 4 Palazzo Senza Tempo, where temporary exhibitions are held year-round. Exit the palace on the northern side to find yourself on the suspended panoramic terrace overlooking the amphitheatre that hosts the 11 Lune music festival in July and one of Peccioli’s Giants, monumental human-like sculptures that have become symbols of Peccioli’s renewal.

For lunch, stop at 5 Caffè Haus, then take Via delle Grotte north and follow it around to find yourself in front of Patrick Tuttofuoco’s 6 Endless Sunset (2020), the colourful installation surrounding the bridge. Admire the view from Viale Mazzini before returning to Piazza del Carmine, where you’ll see the graffiti-covered 7 Cinema Passerotti theatre, built in 1927 and now dedicated to avant-garde performances.

HIKING TOUR
Hiking San Giuliano Terme to Monte Faeta

Historically known for its curative waters, the spa town of San Giuliano Terme is the starting point for a 17km hike that will take you up Monte Faeta, the second-tallest peak of the Monte Pisano chain, then back via the picturesque slopes and through the abandoned monastery of Mirteto. The majority of this itinerary is fairly easy-going, but the steep climb to the top of Faeta requires some stamina.

Passo di Dante | Daniele Corda/shutterstock ©

1 San Giuliano Terme

Home to the luxurious Bagni di Pisa Thermal Spa, quaint San Giuliano Terme is a tranquil town dotted with the 18th-century villas of past aristocrats who built their residences here to make good use of the area’s natural wealth. Visit the Acquedotto romano di Caldaccoli, a Roman-era aqueduct dating back to the 1st century CE, then head northeast towards the mountains to the trailhead.

The hike: Cross San Giuliano Terme’s centre. At the end of Via Giovanni Battista Niccolini you should see the red and white sign marking the start of trail 115.

2 Passo di Dante

The initial section of the hike is uphill, but after just 2km you’ll be rewarded with the first panoramic views. Trail 115 takes you to the pass named after Tuscany’s best-known medieval poet, Dante Alighieri. Here you’ll find a bust of Dante and a quote from the 33rd canto of the Divine Comedy, where this hilly area is mentioned.

The hike: Following the initial climb to the Passo di Dante, the incline gets milder. Continue east.

3 Passo della Conserva

Approximately 1.5km after Passo di Dante you should reach Passo del Castagno. Here take trail 00 to Passo della Conserva, an ideal picnic spot shaded by tall trees at about 560m altitude. You are at the foot of Monte Faeta – the steep (but not dangerous) climb up begins here. You’ll be returning to this point after the climb, so if you’re not in the mood for tackling the incline it can also be skipped.

The hike: You are on the southern side of Monte Faeta – from Passo della Conserva follow the straight path for about 1km to the peak, gaining 300m in elevation.

4 Monte Faeta

The path up the highest point of the mountain is mostly covered by trees, but after about half an hour, you will see the vegetation thin out. The wooden cross marking the summit will appear – from here, you should spot Pisa, the Mediterranean and the tiny villages that dot the region.

The hike: Retrace your steps to Passo della Conserva, then abandon the 00 trail and continue south towards Mirteto.

5 Mirteto

The former monastic village of Mirteto emerges shyly from the forests as you loop back towards San Giuliano Terme. The walls of the Romanesque church of Santa Maria di Mirteto, probably built in the 12th century, still stand as a fascinating remnant of the past. Enter the former church and take a break in the flat, grassy area that surrounds it, before continuing back to your starting point. Follow the trail and in about one hour you’ll be back in San Giuliano Terme.

San MiniatoTIME FROM PISA: 1 HR jpg

Red-brick monuments

Right between Pisa and Florence is the medieval hilltop town of San Miniato – a place of culinary wonders marked by the Torre di Federico II, which you’ll spot as soon as you reach the town’s vicinity by train or car. The quadrangular, red-brick fortress dominated the skyline in the Middle Ages with its 37m height, until it was bombed by German forces in 1944. After the war, San Miniato’s symbol was reconstructed – from it’s base you can see the Appennines stretching before you. In the historic heart of the town is the 12th-century Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta e San Genesio, San Miniato’s Romanesque Duomo housing a surprising baroque interior, attached to the Museo Diocesano d’Arte Sacra di San Miniato, a rich collection of religious art spanning seven centuries.

Taste (or hunt) San Miniato’s white truffle

San Miniato’s highly prized tuber magnatum pico (white truffle) is the reason so many come here between September and December, but the rest of the year will make your mouth water just as well. While white truffle grows in autumn, different varieties of the precious tuber are found year-round in the calcareous slopes surrounding San Miniato. Don’t plan on digging the ground on your own – only experienced, certified tartufai can hunt the forests with their dogs in search of truffles typically found near oaks, poplars and hazels. The largest truffle ever recorded – a massive 2.5kg tuber donated to US President Dwight D Eisenhower – was found in San Miniato in 1954, as the wrought-iron statue to tartufaio Arturo Gallerini and his loyal dog Parigi in Viale XXIV Maggio testifies.

During the last three weekends of November, charming San Miniato lights up to host the Mostra Mercato Nazionale del Tartufo Bianco, a much awaited event where freshly hunted truffles of all kinds and sizes are cooked, smelled, tasted and auctioned to visitors, traders, restaurateurs and enthusiasts. And if eating is not enough, you can book a truffle-hunting session with one of the local tartufai, where you’ll be able to closely follow trained dogs and their owners through the forests as they uncover nature’s treasures. Truffle in Tuscany (truffleintuscany.com), run by long-time truffle hunter Massimo Cucchiara, organises seasonal truffle hunts.

San Miniato white truffles | Landscape Stock Photos/shutterstock ©

A PERFECT DAY IN SAN MINIATO

Sara Morini works as a guide in San Miniato, Vinci and Florence. She is the founder of Discover San Miniato. @discoversanminiato

There is so much you can do in little San Miniato! Start by admiring the cathedral from Piazza del Prato del Duomo, then climb to the highest point of the village to visit the Torre di Federico II and take in the stunning view. Visit the Santuario del Santissimo Crocifisso, then make your way to the town hall with its beautiful frescoes. Take a leisurely stroll through Seminario Sq, then head to Piazza del Popolo and Vicoli Carbonai, where you can take a peaceful walk through the greenery. Afterwards, savour a regional wine while taking in the beauty of the hills, or enjoy the scenery with a bike ride before stopping for an obligatory truffle-based dinner.

TASTING TRUFFLE IN SAN MINIATO

Papere e Papaveri: Fine-diner with creative cooking techniques and flavourful local produce. 7.30-10.30pm Mon, Tue & Thu-Sat, 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Sun €€€

Piccola Osteria del Tartufo: There is no such thing as too much truffle. Try truffled honey, cheese, pasta and dessert. 11am-11pm Fri-Wed, to 10.30pm Thu €€

Antico Ristoro Le Colombaie: Traditional Tuscan restaurant where dishes are prepared with fresh regional ingredients. 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat, noon-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm Sun €€

Pepenero: Chef Gilberto Rossi cooks here with a dedication to organic produce and seasonal dishes. 7.30-10.30pm Mon & Wed-Sat, 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Sun €€

Lucca

WALKABLE WALLS | CHURCHES | HISTORIC CHARM

As one of the Tuscan cities that has best preserved its historic character, enchanting Lucca is a spectacle worth discovering, layer after layer. Hiding behind its monumental Renaissance walls is a city that blends Roman roots with an aristocratic disposition, made up of stately palaces, richly adorned villas and grandiose marble churches connected by cobblestoned alleys. Ruled by powerful families of merchants and bankers for most of the past millennium, Lucca had its golden age between the 11th and 14th centuries, when the silk trade and its privileged position on the Via Francigena brought massive wealth to the city’s traders, leading to the construction of tower houses and fortifications that still mark the city’s skyline. Unlike other major cities in Tuscany, Lucca managed to largely maintain its independence until the turn of the 19th century, never falling under Florentine domination. Today exploring the heritage of this city-state is a stimulating adventure through the remnants of past epochs.

HIGHLIGHTS

1Cattedrale di San Martino

2City Walls

3Piazza dell’Anfiteatro

SIGHTS

4Basilica di San Frediano

5Casa del Boia

6Chiesa di San Michele in Foro

7La Cavallerizza

8Museo della Cattedrale

9Museo dell’Antica Zecca di Lucca

10Museo Nazionale di Palazzo Mansi

11Museo Nazionale di Villa Guinigi

12Palazzo Pfanner

13Palazzo Pretorio

14Piazza Napoleone

15Piazzetta del Libro

16Porta Elisa

17Porta San Pietro

18Puccini Museum

19Torre delle Ore

20Torre Guinigi

SLEEPING

21Alla Corte degli Angeli

22Hotel Ilaria

23La Boheme

EATING

24Buca di Sant’Antonio

25Da Rosolo

26Gelateria Veneta

27Gli Orti di Via Elisa

28Grammofono

29La Crema Matta

30Osteria Del Neni

31Paniko

32Piccola Osteria Civico 6

33Ristorante Giglio

34Trattoria Da Nonna Clara

DRINKING

35Ciclo Divino

36Da Cervesia

Dal Bardo (see 36)

37Enoteca Vanni

38Franklin ‘33

39La Tana del Boia

40Magellano

41Vinarkia della Pavona

TRANSPORT

42Biciclette Poli

GETTING AROUND

Lucca is well connected to both Florence and Pisa by frequent trains that run to the city’s central train station, steps away from the historic centre. When you step out of the train head left and within five minutes you’ll be able to enter the city walls via the impressive Porta San Pietro. Once inside, walking is the best way of moving around. A 4.2km path runs around the city walls, which offer great views over the city and can be toured either on foot or by bike.

TOP TIP

Lucca is known as the City of 100 Churches because of the high number of religious structures dotting the city. While not exactly 100, each of the many churches found within the historic walls tells the story of the noble family that founded both its construction and the artistic treasures commonly found inside.

Sights Along the City Walls

Take a walk around the monumental defensive structure

For over 500 years the city walls of Lucca have protected the treasures of the historic centre. Reaching 12m in height and partially covered by lush greenery, Lucca’s monumental ramparts date back to the 16th century and are among Europe’s best preserved city walls, due to the fact that Lucca never experienced a siege following their construction. In the vicinity of Porta San Pietro you can climb up to the Baluardo Santa Maria and start the 4.2km walk along the historic walls. Besides the great views over the city and its architectural gems, the walls house some minor museums worth peeking into as you join locals in their daily passeggiata (stroll). Walk counterclockwise to reach the neoclassical Porta Elisa marble gate commissioned by Princess Elisa Bonaparte in the 18th century. Close to the Baluardo San Salvatore, you’ll notice the large stone house known as the Casa del Boia (Executioner’s Home), named as such in 1826, when the Lucca’s council hired Roman executioner Tommaso Jona to offer his professional services to the city. Inside you’ll find a little interactive museum dedicated to the history of the Via Francigena, the pilgrim route running through Lucca. Once you get to the northern side, admire Palazzo Pfanner’s manicured gardens from above near Porta Santa Maria, then stop at the Museo dell’Antica Zecca di Lucca, one of the oldest coin mills in Europe that operated for over a millennium between the 7th and the 19th centuries. The ramparts can also be explored on a bike; rent one at Biciclette Poli (biciclettepoli.com).

Tower Views

Climb the city’s ancient case-torri

Over 250 towers shaped Lucca’s skyline in the Middle Ages, built by competing families to show their wealth to one another. Today only two medieval case-torri (tower houses) still stand in the city centre: Torre Guinigi and Torre dell’Ore. Once belonging to Lucca’s most powerful family, Torre Guinigi (€4) is crowned with five century-old oaks growing on its rooftop at 45m altitude. Climb the 230 steps to the top for a bird’s-eye view over the city’s monuments. If you’re craving more 360-degree views, head over to the tallest structure in the city, the 50m-high Torre delle Ore (literally the ‘tower of the hours’), where a clock dating back to 1390 (but refurbished in 1754) sits just below the rooftop, which you’ll reach after climbing another 207 steps.

COSTUMES & COMICS IN LUCCA

Each year between late October and early November, Europe’s largest comics and gaming festival takes place in the heart of Lucca. A weekend filled with events attracts comics enthusiasts and cosplayers from all over Italy and beyond, who gather in the streets of the medieval city to attend conferences, markets and exhibitions.

Over 300,000 people visited Lucca for the latest edition of Lucca Comics & Games, which has grown exponentially in recent years thanks to the participation of global stars of the industry. If you are visiting in the days of the festival expect accommodation prices to increase significantly. The full program of the next edition is available at luccacomicsandgames.com.

GELATO IN Lucca

Cremeria Opera: Unique flavour combinations prepared with organic, raw ingredients available in three city locations. noon-midnight Mon-Fri, from 11am Sat & Sun €

Gelateria Veneta: Expected and unusual flavours at this long-standing Via Veneto gelateria. noon-11pm Mon-Thu & Sun, to 11.30pm Fri & Sat €

La Crema Matta: Artisanal gelato at its best – try the chocolate flavour, you won’t regret it. noon-10.30pm €

Paniko: Family-run spot making seasonally inspired flavours from classic and unusual ingredients such as celery and ginger. 11am-7pm Mon-Wed, to 11pm Thu-Sun €

Romanesque Wonder

Inside Chiesa di San Michele in Foro

The construction of Chiesa di San Michele in Foro started in the 11th century, but this majestic church standing in Piazza San Michele on the site of the former Roman forum has evolved over the centuries. The Romanesque-style facade embellished with four levels of loggias welcomes visitors through its main entrance – step inside to find precious ceramics by Andrea della Robbia and Filippino Lippi’s Pala Magrini, a 1483 panel painting vividly depicting St Roch, St Sebastian, St Jerome and St Helena that the Prato-born artist produced as he was working in Botticelli’s workshop.

LA CAVALLERIZZA

Lucca’s former Cavallerizza Ducale – the stables built between 1821 and 1823 to host the horses used for training military corps and later converted into a space for public equestrian shows – had been left abandoned for decades, until it was revamped in 2019 to become one of Lucca’s most exciting art galleries.

A young team of art curators now uses the space to host world-class exhibitions year-round. Since the opening, the structure once known as La Cavallerizza has hosted works by Caravaggio and Rubens, and most recently a monographic show of sculptures by neoclassical artist Antonio Canova, among many other greats. Check what’s on at contemplazioni.it.

The Treasures of Lucca’s Duomo

One of Italy’s oldest wooden sculptures

Lucca’s Cattedrale di San Martino (museocattedralelucca.it; €3) is a striking example of Romanesque architecture that has functioned as an important pilgrimage destination since the Middle Ages. Beyond the 11th-century facade, formed by three portals opening under the statue of St Martin, hide invaluable works of art such as Domenico Ghirlandaio’s Madonna in trono col Bambino e Santi (1479), Filippino Lippi’s Cristo Morto (1479) and Tintoretto’s Last Supper (1594). Worthy of attention is the fine funerary sculpture commissioned by Paolo Guinigi to Sienese artist Jacopo della Quercia following the death of his wife Ilaria del Carretto, who died at a young age in 1405.

The most precious piece of the Duomo’s collection, however, is the Volto Santo Crucifix. Long believed to be a 12th-century copy of the original, radiocarbon dating done in 2020 showed the Volto Santo to actually date between the 7th and 9th centuries, making it Italy’s oldest known wood sculpture. By adding €3 to your entry ticket you can climb the bichromatic bell tower for a spectacular view over the city from the top of its 217 steps. Purchase the combo ticket (€10) and you can access the Museo della Cattedrale, housing the original ornaments that once belonged to the Volto Santo Crucifix and precious jewels donated to the church throughout the centuries.

Amphitheatre-like Piazza

Step into Lucca’s elliptical square

Echoing Lucca’s Roman epoch, this elliptical square lined with bars, cafes and restaurants is unlike any other piazza in Tuscany. Built in the 19th century by architect Lorenzo Nottolini, Piazza dell’Anfiteatro sits on the remains of an ancient Roman amphitheatre, dating to the 1st or 2nd century CE. Four small gates allow access to Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, making the first encounter with the colourful homes encircling the open space even more surprising.

Baroque Elegance

Inside the opulent Palazzo Pfanner

Pay a visit to the whimsical Palazzo Pfanner constructed in the 17th century for a wealthy family of silk merchants, following the baroque aesthetic en vogue at the time. Climb the monumental stone staircase designed by local architect Domenico Martinelli to reach the central hall, frescoed in 1720 by Pietro Paolo Scorsini, and tour the adjoining rooms adorned with antique furnishings. Afterwards exit into the geometrically styled garden dotted with classical statues and lemon trees envisioned by Filippo Juvarra before Austrian beer brewer Felix Pfanner (1818–92) acquired the property, giving it its current name.

A House-Museum Filled with Art

Explore Museo Nazionale di Palazzo Mansi

The opulent halls of the aristocratic residence once belonging to the Mansi family house the rich collection of contemporary and modern art belonging to the Museo Nazionale di Palazzo Mansi (luccamuseinazionali.it; adult/child €4/2). The 1st floor is still furnished as it used to be when the palace was inhabited in the 17th century. The awe-inspiring Sala della Musica, refurbished in 1689 for the wedding of Carlo Mansi and Elena Pepoli, precedes the Pinacoteca, a gallery filled with canvases donated to the city by the Grand Duke of Habsburg and Lorraine in 1874, when Lucca was annexed to Tuscany.

Cattedrale di San Martino | Kirk Fisher/shutterstock ©

PUCCINI’S LIFE & WORK

One of Italy’s most renowned composers, Giacomo Puccini, was born in Lucca in 1858. The Puccini Museum (puccinimuseum.org), located in the artist’s birthplace in Corte San Lorenzo, offers an intimate look at Puccini’s life and work through original manuscripts, letters and personal artefacts preserved for posterity.

The annual Puccini Festival (puccinifestival.it), held in nearby Torre del Lago, features performances of his famous operas like La Bohème, Tosca and Madama Butterfly in an open-air theatre near Puccini’s beloved villa. This villa, now a museum (giacomopuccini.it), has been maintained intact from when the composer moved here with his family in 1900.

EATING IN LUCCA

Osteria Del Neni: Historic Tuscan osteria in the heart of the old city; a great stop for homemade food with seats outside. noon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sun €€

Trattoria Da Nonna Clara: Steps away from Torre Guinigi, this rustic trattoria preserves old traditions with its signature tortelli. noon-4pm & 6pm-midnight Tue-Sun €€

Piccola Osteria Civico 6: Break for an aperitivo, a charcuterie board or plate of tortelli between sights at one of the few tables at this little osteria. 10am-midnight €€

Da Rosolo: Simple dishes and generous portions – all you need to fuel more exploring. noon-9.30pm Fri-Wed €€

Buca di Sant’Antonio: As welcoming as it is traditional. Order a plate of handmade pasta and a glass of wine. 12.30-3pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat, 12.30-3pm Sun €€

Gli Orti di Via Elisa: Seasonal dishes made with local ingredients served in a cosy spot between Torre Guinigi and Porta Elisa. noon-2.30pm & 7-11pm Wed-Mon €€

Grammofono: The internationally inspired menu takes you from Mexico to Japan with seasonal dishes made with local ingredients. 7.30-10pm Tue-Sun €€€

Ristorante Il Giglio: In an 18th-century palace, this Michelin-starred option offers six-course vegetarian tasting menus. 7.30-10pm Tue-Fri, 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm Sat-Mon €€€

Tracing Lucca’s History

Local art throughout the ages

Enter the Gothic-style villa once home to Paolo Guinigi, the powerful lord of Lucca from 1400 to 1430, to embark on a journey through the city’s history, from the archaeological collection of Etruscan artefacts dating back to the 8th century BCE, all the way to the late Renaissance canvases and neoclassical artworks. The exhibits contained in the Museo Nazionale di Villa Guinigi (adult €4/2), once one of the most prestigious palaces in the city, also showcase works produced by local artists and international artists that worked in Lucca throughout the centuries. Among the many notable names you’ll find while walking through the 26 halls of the museum, expect to encounter big ones like Tino di Caimano, Spinello Aretino and even Donatello.

Museo Nazionale di Villa Guinigi | Atlantide Phototravel/getty images ©

WALK FROM LUCCA TO PISA

With time on your hands, you can hike between northwestern Tuscany’s two major cities following the Via degli Acquedotti, a fascinating 25km path running along the aqueducts built to bring water to Lucca in the 19th century.

After exiting Lucca’s city walls, walk along the stone arches that form the aqueduct commissioned in 1822 by Lucca’s duchess to architect Lorenzo Nottolini. You’ll then climb up the mountains separating the two provinces, to reach Pisa via the Acquedotto Mediceo, the system of water ways built by the Medici in the early 17th century. The whole journey takes about nine hours to complete, and while it can be done in a single, long day, it is often split into two.

DRINKING IN LUCCA: COCKTAILS, Wine & Beer

Franklin ’33: Lucca’s best-known craft cocktail destination is great both before and after dinner. 7pm-2am Tue-Sun

Magellano: The old-school atmosphere matches the exposed brick of this quality cocktail bar in Via Olivo. 6pm-1am

Dal Bardo: The colourful tiles of this cocktail bar with outdoor seating match the variety of flavours of the drinks. 5-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri-Sun

Vinarkia della Pavona: This sleek cocktail and wine bar sits steps away from Piazza dell’Anfiteatro. 6pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, to midnight Sun

Enoteca Vanni: Patrons spill onto the pavement on warm summer days, when small plates are served next to a vast selection of wines. 4-8pm Mon, 10am-1pm & 4-8pm Tue-Sat

Da Cervesia: Small pub specialising in Italian craft beers – come to try something new. 4-11pm Mon, Wed & Thu, noon-1am Fri & Sat, 3-9pm Sun

Ciclo Divino: Bikes and wines make a great combo at this friendly bar serving local labels and €1 cicchetti (bread bites). 3.30-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri, 3-11pm Sat & Sun

La Tana del Boia: For a hoppy break after your visit to the Duomo, stop at this craft beer pub for a pint and a cheese board. noon-midnight

A WALK BACK IN TIME

A walk across Lucca’s historic centre is a journey through time, where remnants of different epochs line up one after the other.

START Porta San Pietro

END Basilica di San Frediano

LENGTH 1.5km; 2 hours

Enter via 1 Porta San Pietro and head directly to 2 Piazza Napoleone, also known as Piazza Grande, where you’ll find the grandiose Palazzo Ducale, Lucca’s centre of political power designed in the 16th century by Bartolomeo Ammannati. Enter to visit Lorenzo Nottolini’s extraordinary Scala Regia, the Cortile degli Svizzeri and the art-filled rooms where the city’s fate was decided.

Make a detour to reach the little 3 Piazzetta del Libro, where a permanent book market guarantees great secondhand finds, then make your way to 4 Palazzo Pretorio, Lucca’s most important Renaissance building constructed in the 15th century to house the city’s podestà (chief magistrate). Next up is the striking 5 Chiesa di San Michele in Foro, then take the ancient Via Fillungo to get to one of Italy’s most unique squares, 6 Piazza dell’Anfiteatro. Still visible are the remains of the 2nd-century Roman amphitheatre on whose foundation the piazza’s medieval architecture was built. Take a seat at one of the cafe terraces in the square for a glass of wine before continuing to your final stop, the 7 Basilica di San Frediano, one of Lucca’s most prominent churches built in the 12th century and housing fine sculptures by Jacopo della Quercia.

Beyond Lucca

Trendy and relaxed or rural and wild. As you exit Lucca to explore its surroundings, choose your direction wisely – two entirely different worlds await.

Lucca’s province extends northwest of the city, encompassing quaint medieval villages as well as glamorous beach towns where over-the-top hotels and fashionable nightclubs attract VIP crowds in summer. There is really something for everyone here. Drive through twisting roads to discover the hamlets and landscapes of the Serchio Valley, with stone-built architecture, deep canyons and lush forests stretching all the way to the majestic Alpi Apuane (Apuan Alps). Or take a break from cultural wanderings with a relaxing weekend on the Versilian Coast, where the pressure to do anything at all will increase from zero only when hunger calls for a heartwarming seafood lunch. Choose according to your liking – both the rural and voguish will allow you to experience Tuscany from an unexpected perspective.

GETTING AROUND

Most seaside towns of the Versilia region can be easily reached by train from Lucca, although at times you might have to change trains in Viareggio, the main transport hub along this section of the coast. The Serchio Valley, north of the city, makes for a great road trip leading to the mountainous Garfagnana – the best way of getting around is with your own vehicle.

PietrasantaTIME FROM LUCCA: 1 HR jpg

Seaside art hub

North of Viareggio are the artsy Pietrasanta and its beachside extension, Marina di Pietrasanta. Founded in 1255, Pietrasanta developed into an important art hub during the Renaissance due to its location near the marble quarries of Carrara and it has maintained its character to this day, being the town with the highest concentration of art galleries and artisanal ateliers in Italy. Among the little museums that dot the city centre, it’s worth stepping into the Museo dei Bozzetti (museodeibozzetti.it; free), which houses a collection of over 1000 preparatory plaster models of sculptures produced by more than 350 Italian and international artists. Roam the halls of the museum to see the thought process behind a finished sculpture, then head to the long beach (3km from the town) to admire the sunset at the Pontile di Tonfano. Along the way, spot the 75 completed statues comprising the open-air Parco Internazionale della Scultura Contemporanea that adorn the urban landscape of both Pietrasanta and Marina di Pietrasanta.

Forte dei MarmiTIME FROM LUCCA: 35 MINS jpg

Go all in when visiting Tuscany’s VIP capital

If you’re here to splurge, north of Pietrasanta you’ll find the glamorous Forte dei Marmi, Tuscany’s celebrity magnet where glitzy, champagne-popping clubs, luxurious fashion stores and over-the-top hotels make the usually sleepy town a summer parade of wealth. Just exit Forte’s core, however, and you’ll soon reach the WWF-protected Le Dune, a protected reserve where endemic flora and a free-to-access beach make an entirely different landscape from the nearby overbuilt urban centres.

Forte dei Marmi | FEDERICO NERI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

CARNEVALE DI VIAREGGIO

Viareggio’s long passeggiata, the promenade extending for over 2km between the golden beaches and Art Nouveau hotels, is the city’s main artery leading to the many colourful-umbrella-dotted bagni (privately run beaches) that get packed during summer.

Beside fine-dining restaurants, lively beach-side cafes and relentless nightlife, Viareggio is famous for its Carnevale (viareggio.ilcarnevale.com) celebration, one of the largest in Italy. Spectacular floats depicting actors and politicians have paraded the streets every February since 1873, attracting up to half a million people to watch massive allegorical constructions of figures which, in recent years, have included Donald Trump, Jeff Bezos, Mother Teresa and more.

EATING IN VErSILIA & VIAREGGIO

Pesce Baracca: A market-style restaurant in Forte dei Marmi cooking up fresh seafood in many forms, from fish burgers to mixed platters. 9am-10.30pm Tue-Sun €€

Il Posto: Chic and welcoming, Pietrasanta’s Il Posto blends rustic charm with high-end Italian food. 7.45-11pm Sun, Mon, Wed & Thu, 12.45-2.30pm & 7.45-11pm Fri & Sat €€

Filippo: Sophisticated and artsy, Filippo offers a refined, creative menu in the heart of Pietrasanta. 7-10.30pm Tue, Wed & Fri, 12.30-2.30pm & 7-11pm Sat-Mon €€€

Lunasia: This Viareggio fine-dining institution serves seafood and meat-based tasting menus, plus farm-to-table vegetarian specialities. 7.30-10.30pm €€€

SeravezzaTIME FROM LUCCA: 45 MINS jpg

Cosimo I de Medici’s Versilian villa

As the emblem hanging above the entrance suggests, the nucleus of the symmetrical and stately Palazzo Mediceo Seravezza standing in Seravezza was commissioned by Grand Duke Cosimo I de’ Medici between 1561 and 1565 as a temporary residence where he could stay during his frequent trips to the nearby marble quarries. While the external gardens have been reshaped over time, the palace has been preserved and listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site together with the Medici’s other 13 Tuscan villas and gardens. Step into the courtyard to find an original well made from a single marble block, then walk up to the 1st floor to access the Museo del Lavoro, a collection of over 2000 artefacts tracing the history of work in the Versilia region.

StazzemaTIME FROM LUCCA: 1 HR jpg

Explore the abandoned mines of Calcaferro

It only takes a short walk from the Chiesa di San Rocco in the hamlet of Mulina, sitting just below the hilltop town of Stazzema, to enter the thick forests that hide the abandoned mines of Calcaferro, once one of the region’s most important sites for the production of gunpowder. The moss-covered mills built along the river operated throughout the 20th century in the humid environment that allowed the handling of dangerous chemicals without the risk of explosions. The jungle-like area was abandoned in the 1980s, but much of the infrastructure used to extract and process minerals such as lead and zinc, including millwheel, barrels and grindstones, was left behind to be absorbed by the vegetation.

SANT’ANNA DI STAZZEMA PEACE NATIONAL PARK

In the early morning of 12 August 1944, German Nazi troops, assisted by Italian Fascist collaborators, launched a brutal massacre in the mountainous village of Sant’Anna di Stazzema. The German troops, as part of a systematic retaliation against local partisan resistance movements, sought to eliminate any perceived support for the resistance. They massacred 560 civilians in cold blood, including 130 children. The tragedy of Sant’Anna di Stazzema, one of Italy’s darkest pages of WWII, is remembered in a memorial museum that honours the residents of the hamlets who suffered during the slaughter. Six walking trails branch out from the towering memorial, linking the villages hit by Nazi violence in 1944.

EATING & Drinking in GARFAGNANA

Trattoria Marchetti: A small menu of local classics, fair prices and no-fuss attitude make it a local favourite. Stop here for a quick lunch between adventures. 7am-6pm €

Il Baretto: Simple cuisine and rustic ambience in this historic restaurant near the Castelnuovo di Garfagnana’s main square. noon-2.30pm & 7-9.30pm €€

Trattoria Bonini: This trattoria will satisfy meat lovers and those seeking to experience the region’s traditional cuisine. noon-2.30pm & 7.15-9.30pm Wed-Sun €€

Osteria dell’Isola: Beautiful location below the Alpi Apuane with a terrace to enjoy traditional tagliatelle al farro (spelt tagliatelle) alongside great views. 10am-10pm €€

Il Pozzo: Authentic regional cuisine in Pieve Fosciana, cooked following the ‘slow food’ philosophy and using farm-sourced ingredients. noon-2.30pm & 7-11pm €€

Il Grillo: A Giuncugnano establishment known for its wild game and porcini mushrooms – incredible when fried to order. 7.30-9pm Fri, 12.30-3pm & 7.30-9pm Sat & Sun €€

Podere Concori: Family-run winery near Barga. Make a stop for a tasting session accompanied by an exceptional view. hours vary, open daily

Osteria Del Vento: Recharge after a tour of the Grotta del Vento in this rustic osteria opposite the caves. 10am-7pm Tue-Thu, to 10pm Fri-Sun €

GarfagnanaTIME FROM LUCCA: 1 hr jpg

Inside the mountains’ belly

Elaborate, shiny sculptures shaped over thousands of years hide inside the Grotta del Vento (grottadelvento.com), a 4.5km-long cave piercing the Alpi Apuane from the hamlet of Fornovolasco, 20km from Garfagnana’s main hub, Castelnuovo di Garfagnana. Despite their marble appearance, the sculptures were not carved by humans – they are giant, living stalagmites formed by the slow, constant passage of water transporting mineral deposits.

Touring the cave with a professional speleologist (one-, two- or three-hour group tours available, with prices ranging from €10 to €25; book online) is a truly memorable experience. This natural gallery accidentally discovered in 1961 takes its name from the constant air current that runs through the cave due to the difference in atmospheric pressure at its entry points. If you are not blown away by the gust of wind hitting you at the entrance, you will be when you see the massive rock formations, canals and passageways that nature has dug over the course of 20,000 years.

Inside, a constant temperature of 10.7°C is maintained throughout the year (bring a jumper) and depending on which tour you choose, you can expect to walk between 366 and over 1000 steps within the labyrinthine corridors and staircases that make up the caving itinerary, connecting areas such as the Giant’s Abyss – a vertigo-inducing vertical tunnel – and the Hall of Voices.

Flood to frescoes

Before or after visiting the Grotta del Vento, make sure to stop at Fornovolasco, a former village of blacksmiths that suffered greatly from the 1996 floods. Walk into its Chiesa San Francesco d’Assisi to admire Paolo Maiani’s post-flood, water-themed frescoes.

Calcaferro, Stazzema | Sandro Amato/shutterstock ©

ANCIENT METATI

Chestnuts are one of the many traditional specialities of Garfagnana and the mountainous areas of Tuscany. For centuries, locals have harvested chestnuts and dried them over a fire in a metato – a small stone or brick building specifically designed for this purpose. Although this ancient practice is slowly disappearing, it remains a cherished part of local culture.

If you visit Garfagnana between September and November, you may still catch glimpses of smoke rising from the few remaining metati scattered throughout the valleys, where the tradition is kept alive by a handful of dedicated families. Chestnut festivals are held in various towns in Garfaganana between October and December, the largest being in Castelnuovo di Garfagana.

MOUNTAIN HUTS IN GARFAGNANA

Rifugio Val Serenaia: Nestled at 1000m and reachable by car, this hut provides spectacular views of the mountain range and delicious slices of homemade cake. €

Rifugio Rossi: Located on the route leading up to Pania della Croce, this is the one place to stop for a cup of tea or a coffee before the climb. €

Rifugio del Freo: Immersed in the wonderful nature of the Alpi Apuane, this mountain hut rewards hikers with a great lunch in the greenery. €

Rifugio Nello Conti: A perfect break on the Via Vandelli, this rifugio at 1442m altitude has been replenishing hikers with coffee and calories since 1993. €

Mountain-biking wonderland

The Apennine mountain range reaching the northern edges of the Garfagnana is particularly suited for mountain biking, as its terrain is not as rugged as that of the rocky Alpi Apuane. New trails have been developed near the Parco dell’Orecchiella by Richard Williams and Sandra Brandt, mountain-biking pros who decided to move from London to Tuscany in 2015 to set up Ridgeline (ridgeline.bike), a state-of-the-art trail centre developed as part of Santa Cruz’s Pay Dirt project. Hundreds of kilometres of trails extend through forests and along ridges and connect to historic paths once used by shepherds and pilgrims. From Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, experienced mountain bikers have infinite options to choose from, either on the rocky paths climbing the Alpi Apuane or the gently sloping Appennines. Ridgeline runs weeklong mountain-biking tours for groups in spring and autumn and offers guiding service and mountain bike rentals during the summer (e-bikes available).

TOP EXPERIENCE
Alpi Apuane

The collection of rugged ridgelines and sharp peaks forming the Parco Naturale delle Alpi Apuane (Apuan Alps) stretches across northwestern Tuscany from Garfagnana all the way to the coast, offering hiking opportunities for all levels along its network of CAI-managed trails. Sweating for the views is not essential – drive to the idyllic Isola Santa for fairytale scenery or to Val Serenaia for a picture-perfect vista of the rocky summits.

Monte Forato | Marti Bug Catcher/shutterstock ©

DON’T MISS

Monte Forato

Rifugio Nello Conti

Via Vandelli

Lago di Vagli

Pania della Croce

Val Serenaia

PRACTICALITIES

Scan this QR for digital maps of all hiking trails.

Monte Forato

Literally ‘the pierced mountain’, Monte Forato (1230m) is an Alpi Apuane natural wonder. The arc joining its twin peaks creates a cavity that is visible from the valleys of both Garfagnana, Media Valle and Versilia. Twice a year, in November and February, people go to Barga to see the ‘double sunset’ – the sun disappears briefly behind the mountain to reappear in Monte Forato’s hole. You can climb up to the mountain’s hole from Fornovolasco; its a tough hike with 800m of elevation gain, so make sure you are prepared.

Monte Tambura & Via Vandelli

Monte Tambura, the second-tallest peak (1891m) of the Alpi Apuane, sits right on the Via Vandelli, the long-distance trail that follows an ancient military road connecting Massa and Modena. To complete the whole thing you’ll need a full week, but you can get to the top of Monte Tambura and back in a day from the village of Resceto. Make sure to allow time for a meal at the Rifugio Nello Conti, a seasonal mountain hut nestled in the rocky slopes.

Pania della Croce

Climb Pania della Croce (1858m) from the hamlet of Piglionico. Once you get to the Rifugio Rossi hut you’ll spot the Omo Morto (Dead Man) formation, resembling the profile of a person lying down. Then you’ll start the ascent to the top, which will reward with a fantastic view of the coast and the mountains. Go down on the opposite side to reach the Rifugio del Freo for lunch, and if you have time, walk all the way back to Isola Santa before getting back.

MONTE PISANINO

The king of the Alpi Apuane, Monte Pisanino (1946m) dominates the skyline. Getting to the top is an endeavour only highly experienced hikers should attempt as all routes up are steep and often slippery.

Lago di Vagli

The artificial Lago di Vagli covers the submerged village of Fabbriche di Careggine – a Tuscan Atlantis abandoned in 1947. For the best views of this lake, reach the Campocatino oasis and follow a light, 30-minute path leading to the Eremo di San Viviano, a fascinating sanctuary located at 1090m altitude, emerging from the face of Monte Roccandagia. Alternatively, you can tackle the route up to Monte Sumbra (1769m), or fly over the lake at 130km/h with Vagli Park’s zipline (vaglipark.it).

Monte Pizzo d’Uccello

If hiking isn’t enough, climbing opportunities for experienced mountaineers are found on the Oppio–Colnaghi route on Monte Pizzo d’Uccello (1781m), where an 800m vertical wall awaits. Le Rocchette, near Molazzana, is more suited for beginners.

TOP TIPS

• While the Alpi Apuane cannot compete with the actual Alps found in northern Italy in terms of height, hiking here shouldn’t be underestimated. The terrain is rough and the heat can be intense during summer.

• The best time to hike in the Alpi Apuane is in early spring and autumn, when you are more likely to find cool weather and sunny days.

• Most mountain huts have beds where you can spend the night. It’s important to book ahead, especially on weekends.

• The go-to resource for outdoor activities in Garfagnana is Garfagnana Dream (garfagnanadream.it), a local tourism organisation run by a team of passionate hikers, climbers and skiers ready to share their knowledge.

Val Serenaia

To enjoy one of the best views over the mountain chain, drive up to Rifugio Val Serenaia (1059m), open from April to October and offering a frame-worthy panorama from its terrace, accompanied by legendary homemade cakes. Experienced hikers can stay the night in one of the dorms and leave early in the morning to tackle the challenging route up Monte Pizzo d’Uccello.

BargaTIME FROM LUCCA: 45 MINS jpg

Duomo with a view

Medieval Barga is one of the most picturesque hamlets in northern Tuscany, framed by the majestic Alpi Apuane. Walk up to the stone-built Collegiata di San Cristoforo, Barga’s stone Duomo believed to have been built over 1000 years ago, for prime views on the valley and mountains stretching all around. Step into the bare interior to find a 12th-century marble pulpit and the large wooden statue of St Christopher, to whom the church is dedicated.

Parco dell’Orecchiella | Nicola Calisi/shutterstock ©

LONG-DISTANCE GRAVEL BIKING

Richard Williams is the director of Ridgeline, which offers guided mountain bike adventures in remote northern Tuscany. @ridgeline_mtb

A new opportunity to explore Tuscany on a bike is coming to life – the Terre di Pisa Bike Trail (terredipisabiketrail.it), a new annual cycling event that will invite participants to cover a 527km loop route (about 43% off-road) across 16 municipalities in the province of Pisa. The trail is divided into eight stages, with a total altitude difference of over 9900m and a maximum altitude of 800m. Touching the region’s cities, most important villages, vineyards and mountain paths, the itinerary will be accessible to gravel and mountain bikes once completed in 2025.

Carrara

MARBLE | CONTEMPORARY ART | MOUNTAINS

When you look out at the mountains surrounding Carrara, it might appear as though snow is capping their peaks. Don’t be deceived – the white mountaintops are some of the quarries where marble has been extracted since Roman times. While historically the material has been used by great artists – including Michelangelo and Canova – to produce iconic masterpieces, today corporations mostly mine debris, which is used to produce cosmetics and toothpaste. The extraction of Carrara’s white gold continues to shape the politics and environment of the area – the harsh working conditions of quarrymen led to the city becoming one of Italy’s most important anarchist hotbeds a century ago, and environmentalists today are calling for the closure of active quarries in order to save the mountains from being sold to the highest bidder. A closer look at these lunar landscapes will make clear the extent to which the marble industry has transformed Carrara and its surroundings.

HIGHLIGHTS

1Accademia di Belle Arti

EATING

2Il ReBacco

3Osteria La Capinera

4Osteria La Piazza

5Pizzeria Tognozzi

GETTING AROUND

To reach the centre of Carrara from other major Tuscan cities you’ll need to travel by train to the Carrara-Avenza train station, then take one of the frequent buses that ride to the city centre. Once there, you can easily explore on foot, although a car comes in handy if you want to reach the mountains.

TOP TIP

About 50 artisanal sculpture workshops are active in Carrara today, producing original pieces and reproductions of classical artworks. As you walk around the city, make sure to visit them and get to know the artisans keeping the craft alive.

The Art of Sculpting Marble

Discover Carrara’s artistic heritage

While marble today is mostly extracted for architectural projects and the cosmetics industry, historically it has been used by sculptors to produce art since Roman times. In Villa Fabbricotti, the museum CARMI (carmi.museocarraraemichelangelo.it; adult/child €5/3) traces the life and work of one of the Renaissance’s best-known marble connoisseurs – Michelangelo Buonarroti. Through physical and digital reproductions of his work and historical documents, the museum’s six thematic rooms trace the Renaissance artist’s bond with Carrara. Carrara is also home to one of Italy’s most important art academies, the Accademia di Belle Arti, founded in 1769 by Princess Maria Teresa Cybo Malaspina and still located in her former residence, the Palazzo Cybo Malaspina. Visit during one of the special openings (or book a tour via accademiacarrara.it) to find one of the most important plaster-cast collections in the world, with over 300 works by famous artists such as Antonio Canova and Lorenzo Bartolini.

Touring the Quarries

Visit the sites where marble is extracted

To understand the long-lasting – but far from unproblematic – relationship between Carrara and its marble, head out of the centre to reach the Cava Museo Fantiscritti (cavamuseo.com; Mar-Nov), where you can step into the lunar landscape of a marble quarry and learn about the harsh reality of workers who used to extract massive blocks of white gold from the mountains. Guided tours lasting about 45 minutes (from €35) are available on request and start with an explanation of the origins of the marble industry, followed by a drive up to the quarries where you’ll be able see the environment sculpted by 2000 years of extraction.

AN ANARCHISTS’ STRONGHOLD

Radical political ideas circulating during the late 19th century caught on in Carrara, where masses of cavatori (miners) performed an extremely dangerous job – manually extracting blocks of marble from the mountains. Death and injuries were frequent, but the expansion of the marble industry seemed unstoppable.

Influenced by anarchist thinkers like Carlo Cafiero and Errico Malatesta, Carrara’s quarrymen joined forces to change their conditions, setting the foundation for what would become one of Italy’s anarchist hotbeds. The first Congress of Anarchists took place in Carrara in 1945, followed by the creation of the still-active Federazione Anarchica Italiana (FAI). On 1 May, Carrara celebrates its Anarchic Labor Day with a parade through the city.

EATING IN CARRARA

Pizzeria Tognozzi: For a quick bite to eat, head to this historic pizza bakery in the heart of the city for a tasty slice. 8am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, to 9pm Sat €

Osteria La Capinera: Tasty, authentic cuisine in the heart of Carrara’s historic centre, with a daily-changing menu. noon-3pm & 7.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-2.30pm Sun €

Il ReBacco: Colourful, warm and welcoming space; the menu includes both seafood and meat-heavy dishes. 7.30-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Sun €€

Osteria La Piazza: As the name suggests, this osteria faces the main square, serving generous portions of traditional dishes. 7.30-10.30pm Mon & Thu-Sat, 8-10.30pm Wed & Sun €€

Beyond Carrara

Mountains, castles and long-distance walks – the northernmost tip of Tuscany makes for a worthwhile journey of discovery in these borderlands known as Lunigiana.

Extending to Emilia-Romagna and Liguria, the historic region known as Lunigiana has been inhabited since the Bronze Age, as proven by the archaeological artefacts that have emerged from its soils. Most travellers visit the region briefly, crossing through on the way to the more Instagram-friendly Cinque Terre, but it’s worth dedicating at least a few days to its castles and fortified hamlets to learn about traditions that are largely lost elsewhere, such as the fascinating al testo cooking technique, involving an ancient cast-iron pot that gives Lunigiana’s best-known dish, the testaroli, its name.

GETTING AROUND

The town of Pontremoli, in the northwestern tip of Tuscany, is connected by train to Florence and Carrara-Avenza – the slow journey (under three hours) makes for a great immersion into the Lunigiana’s lush landscapes. If time allows, you can continue exploring the region from Pontremoli by bike, following the new Ciclovia dei Castelli, or on foot, through the legendary Via Francigena that cuts through the town.

ColonnataTIME FROM CARRARA: 20 MINS jpg

Kobra’s David

Cima di Gioia has become a landmark since 2017, when Brazilian street artist Eduardo Kobra produced a 10m-tall rainbow painting of Michelangelo’s David overlooking the Cava Gualtiero Corsi. To get there, start your hike from Colonnata, a tiny hamlet in the outskirts of Carrara known for the production of its traditional lardo (marble-cured fatback), and follow the red and white markers of route 195 all the way to Cima d’Uomo and Foce Luccica. Severed white peaks and seemingly pixelated slopes will appear on your left as you walk on the mountain ridge – these are just some of the 165 Carrara marble quarries active in the region, chipping off mountain fragments at an unprecedented speed. (More marble has been extracted in Carrara’s surroundings in the past 30 years than in the previous 2000 due to technological innovation.) The trail passes through a centuries-old via di lizza, an old track used by quarry workers to slide marble blocks down to the valley on wooden beams, then continues through Vergheto before climbing back up to Cima Gioia via route 196.

MassaTIME FROM CARRARA: 15 MINS jpg

Art and views in Marina di Massa

Not many places in the world allow you to go for a hike in the mountains then head to the beach for a swim before the sun sets. Marina di Massa is one of those places, with long, sandy shores easily reached from the Alpi Apuane. Its promenade is an open-air museum of odd statues, including a bronze copy of Michelangelo’s David and the Cavallino statue by Riccardo Rossi. Take a stroll and choose your view – the ocean on one side or the rugged peaks on the other.

VIA FRANCIGENA BY BIKE

The Via Francigena pilgrim route crosses all of Tuscany starting from Pontremoli. Historically, this path started in Canterbury and brought pious Christians from all over Europe to Rome. Now a major long-distance hiking path similar to Spain’s Camino de Santiago, the Via Francigena is typically tackled on foot, but it can also be done by mountain or gravel bike. The majority of the route is suitable for wheels – only some sections of the standard itinerary are too narrow or steep to be cyclable. Alternative routes can be found at viafrancigena.bike, which features detailed maps for cyclists.

EATING & DRINKING IN PONTREMOLI

Bar Luciano: A Pontremoli institution. People come here for one drink only, the mysterious bianco oro (white gold) cocktail, whose recipe is a local secret. 7am-9pm

La Caverna dei Nani: This hidden pub offers burgers and a wide variety of beers made by the Gilda dei Nani Birrai brewery. 5-10.30pm Mon & Wed-Fri, noon-2pm & 5-10.30pm Sat & Sun

Osteria della Luna: Homemade-style cuisine, warm atmosphere and tasty food – another safe choice to keep it local in Pontremoli. 12.30-2.30pm & 8-10pm Thu-Sun €€

Osteria da Bussé: A menu that’s as traditional as it gets – come here for a generous portion of tastaroli (pesto-covered pancake pasta). noon-3pm & 7-10pm Fri-Mon €€

PontremoliTIME FROM CARRARA: 40 MINS jpg

Traces of a lost civilisation

Built on the banks of the Magra river around the historic Via Francigena route – the pilgrim trail stretching from Canterbury to Rome – Pontremoli is topped by the blocky Castello del Piagnaro, a structure whose core dates back to the 15th century. Today it houses the fascinating Museo delle Statue Stele Lunigianesi. Completely renovated in 2015, the museum houses 42 of the 82 mysterious standing stone statues found in the region since the 1950s and presumed to be built by ancient populations who lived in Lunigiana between the 4th and 1st millennia BCE.

Gaze at frescoes inside Villa Dosi Delfini

Steps away from the Castello del Piagnaro is the Villa Dosi Delfini, a baroque highlight dating back to 1700 that might appear at odds with the rustic feel of the town. But the bucolic nature surrounding the property is exactly what made the Dosi family build their majestic holiday home in Pontremoli. The villa is still in use, but it can be visited with a guided tour run by Sigeric (sigeric.it), which will take you through richly furnished halls and under marvellous ceilings adorned with trompe l’oeil frescoes.

Lunigiana’s castles by bike

A great way to explore the historic heritage of the Lunigiana area is by following the recently built Ciclovia dei Castelli, a 47km cycling path forming a circular route that connects the region’s castles and villages. Bikes are available for rental via Sigeric (sigeric.it) in Pontremoli – from there, you can follow the Via Francigena and cycle through the borgo of Ponticello dotted with ancient tower houses, the Romanesque Pieve di Sorano in Filattiera and the 14th-century Castello di Malgrate in Villafranca, before returning to your starting point.

Pistoia

ROMANESQUE ARCHITECTURE | RENAISSANCE ART | MARKET ATMOSPHERE

Pistoia presents itself more timidly than other Tuscan art cities to visitors who reach its quiet historic centre. A short walk separates the train station from the old town, whose charm remains overlooked by mass tourism, which makes roaming the city’s quiet streets and buildings an even more pleasant experience. Founded in the 2nd century BCE, the city was initially a military outpost for Roman troops who were fighting against the Ligurians. Over the centuries, Pistoia grew to become an independent municipality before falling under Florentine dominance in 1401. With its political importance decreasing, the city became an influential centre of the arts – music, poetry, theatre and painting funded by noble families shaped Pistoia’s culture and continue to be core elements of the city’s character to this day.

Piazza del Duomo | Sergey Dzyuba/shutterstock ©

HIGHLIGHTS

1Chiesa di San Giovanni Fuorcivitas

2Piazza del Duomo

3Pistoia Sotterranea

SIGHTS

4Antico Palazzo dei Vescovi

5Battistero di San Giovanni

6Cattedrale di San Zeno

7Chiesa di Sant’Andrea

EATING

8Locanda del Capitano del Popolo

9Osteria Via dell’Abbondanza

DRINKING

10Grand Café du Globe

11Vitium

ENTERTAINMENT

12Pistoia Blues

GETTING AROUND

Pistoia is easily reached by train from Florence in about 30 minutes. The train station is a 10-minute walk from the city centre. Once you’ve reached Piazza del Duomo all the main sights are minutes away.

TOP TIP

Piazza della Sala, Pistoia’s market square built around Cecchino di Giorgio’s 1453 well, comes to life every morning when fruit and vegetable stands crowd the square. A larger market is held on Wednesday and Saturday in Pistoia’s main square, Piazza del Duomo.

Romanesque Architecture

Visit the bichromatic San Giovanni Fuorcivitas

Romanesque architecture defines much of Pistoia’s medieval core, as proven by the striped Chiesa di San Giovanni Fuorcivitas, completed in the 13th century, which you’ll encounter as you enter the city from its southern edge. The distinctive facade stands in contrast with the obscure interior, which houses Taddeo Gaddi’s Polittico (1355), a pulpit designed by Fra Guglielmo da Pisa in 1270 and Luca Della Robbia’s glazed terracotta Visitazione (1445).

Pistoia’s Cultural Heart

Palaces of Piazza del Duomo

Piazza del Duomo is where you’ll find the city’s main sights: the solemn Cattedrale di San Zeno, housing the masterful Altare d’Argento di San Giacomo (1287–1456) – a silver sculpture completed over two centuries by some the greatest goldsmiths of the time; the Antico Palazzo dei Vescovi museum with its 7.9m by 2.7m Arazzo Millefiori tapestry; and the Gothic Battistero di San Giovanni, designed by Andrea Pisano and built by combining white Carrara marble and ‘serpentine’ green Prato marble between 1303 and 1361. Next to finely adorned religious structures, two stately palaces stand on opposite sides of the square – the 1367 Palazzo Pretorio, housing the city court, and the Palazzo del Comune, home of the local government and of Marino Marini’s Miracolo sculpture.

Giovanni Pisano’s Pulpit

Medieval sculpture inside the Chiesa di Sant’Andrea

The 12th-century Chiesa di Sant’Andrea was built outside the original city walls, hence its windowless (fortified) state. The intricately carved pulpit by Giovanni Pisano (1298–1301) is one of the masterpieces of medieval sculpture telling stories of Christ’s life through five panels standing on seven porphyry columns.

Pistoia Underground

Explore the ancient tunnels under the city’s surface

During the mid-14th century, Pistoia’s former hospital known as Spedale del Ceppo played a key role in slowing down the black plague epidemic that struck the city and its surroundings. Founded in 1277, the institute functioned as a hospital for over seven centuries.

With a new hospital built in 2013, the Spedale del Ceppo – recognisable by its elegant loggia embellished with five ceramic medallions attributed to Giovanni della Robbia – was turned into a museum detailing the history of the structure through documents and a collection of past surgical instruments and including the 17th-century Teatrino Anatomico, a tiny ‘theatre’ where students would learn anatomy through cadaver dissection.

It is under this former hospital that much of Pistoia’s history can be understood. The Pistoia Sotterranea (irsapt.it/it/pistoia-sotterranea; adult/child €12/10) is an underground museum formed by a 650m network of tunnels originally carved by the dried river Brana. Join a guided tour run by the Historical & Archaeological Research Institute (IRSA) and you’ll see the evolution of Pistoia’s urban plan and observe remains found during the recent renovation of the tunnels. You’ll also learn that the hospital once used the river running below its surface as a dump for its waste – a fact that will make you grateful for modern hygienic procedures, considering that the water course runs from the hospital to the public washhouses used by local residents.

PISTOIA BLUES FESTIVAL

One of Pistoia’s most anticipated events takes place each year in July, gathering music fans in Piazza del Duomo to listen to Italian and international blues acts. Miles Davis, Sting, Ben Harper, Santana and Frank Zappa are just some of the artists who have taken over the festival’s stage since its first edition in 1980 and big names continue to reach the medieval city year after year. Check out the full program for the summer festival at pistoiablues.com and make sure to book your accommodation ahead of time if you plan to go.

EATING & DRINKING IN PISTOIA

Vitium: Light bites and a large selection of wines make Vitium a perfect aperitivo spot near Piazza del Duomo. 6pm-1am Tue-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, 5.30pm-1am Sun

Locanda del Capitano del Popolo: The eclectic decor doesn’t distract from the delicious meals of this authentic trattoria. 7.30-11pm Mon, noon-3pm & 7.30-11pm Tue-Sun €€

Osteria Via dell’Abbondanza: Abundant portions of Tuscan classics, with meat, fish and veg options. 7.30-10.30pm Tue, 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Wed-Sat €€

Grand Café du Globe: Art Nouveau elegance with in-house roasted coffee and excellent pastries. 7am-8pm Mon-Thu, 7am-9.30pm Fri, 6.30am-noon Sat, 7.30am-9.30pm Sun

Beyond Pistoia

Depending on which direction you take, exiting Pistoia can mean finding yourself in tiny towns nestled in the Apennines or historic cities whose art and architecture are keystones of the Tuscan cultural heritage.

Head north from Pistoia and you’ll quickly find yourself driving the winding roads leading to Abetone, a local favourite skiing destination in winter. West, on the way to Lucca, is the once-exclusive Montecatini Terme, which has been attracting elite tourists thanks to its choice of spas and luxury hotels, and Collodi, home of the Pinocchio Park. East of Pistoia sits industrious Prato, a city that is home to the third-largest Chinese community in Europe (after London and Paris) and an artistic legacy that, despite its worth, few make an effort to come and see. Finally, drive south to re-enter the province of Florence for a stop at the birthplace of one of Tuscany’s most revered historic figures – Leonardo Da Vinci.

GETTING AROUND

Reaching Prato takes under 15 minutes from Pistoia by train, making for an excellent day trip into one of the lesser visited historic cities of Tuscany. Vinci is a half-hour drive away. Florence is also easily reached with public transport, but to reach smaller centres and the Apennines in the north a car is essential.

VinciTIME FROM PISTOIA: 35 MINS jpg

Inside the mind of a genius

It was in the little town of Vinci, 24km south of Pistoia, that the great Leonardo da Vinci was born. Painter, scientist, engineer and inventor, Leonardo’s collection of achievements in entirely different disciplines has earned him the overused title of icon of the Renaissance. The Museo Leonardiano is a museum split across three buildings that include the house where Leonardo da Vinci was born in 1452 (which includes a life-sized holographic representation of the great man), a space dedicated to Leonardo’s career as a painter in Villa del Ferrale, and the inventions museum, showcasing a vast collection of machines built following Leonardo’s designs. This last exhibition space, found inside the Castello dei Conti Guidi, is also the largest, and contains Leonardo’s innovations in the fields of construction, textile production, military equipment and aviation. Before you leave, make sure you climb up the castle’s terrace for an amazing 360-degree view of Vinci’s rolling hills.

Castello dell’Imperatore, Prato | Sergey Dzyuba/shutterstock ©

CELEBRATING LEONARDO

One of the most heartfelt events in the town of Vinci is the annual celebration of Leonardo da Vinci’s birth, which took place on 15 April 1452. Each year, the town comes alive with festivities during the Celebrazioni Leonardiane, also known as Leonardo Day, dedicated to honouring Vinci’s most famous citizen.

The festival offers numerous activities, including theatrical performances, film screenings, artisan markets and interactive workshops that explore the polymath’s numerous contributions to art, science and invention. Special exhibitions are also organised to display works inspired by his genius. This celebration not only pays homage to Leonardo’s legacy but also invites today’s academics to share the most recent research in Leonardo-related historiography, philosophy and literature.

Eating & Drinking in Vinci

La Bottega di Nonno Mario: Family-run pizza place in the heart of Vinci. Drop by for a pinsa; great for lunch or dinner. noon-2.30pm & 5-10pm Mon-Sat €

La Beccheria: Traditional trattoria preparing massive charcuterie boards to enjoy with a glass of local wine. noon-3.30pm & 7-11.30pm Mon, Wed & Thu, noon-4pm & 7pm-12.30am Fri-Sun €€

Caffè del Castello: Known for their legendary bruschette and friendly service, this is an ideal spot for a quick lunch on the way to Leonardo’s museum. 10am-7pm Wed-Mon €€

Ristorante La Torretta: Long-standing restaurant in the heart of Vinci, serving simple Tuscan classics in a rustic atmosphere. 12.30-2pm & 8-10pm Wed-Mon €€

PratoTIME FROM PISTOIA: 15 MINS jpg

The emperor’s castle

Despite being the second Tuscan city by population, Prato doesn’t see many visitors come its way. The Castello dell’Imperatore, the only example of Swabian architecture in central Italy, dating back to 1240 and named after Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II, emerges staunchly from the heart of the Prato’s historic core. Visits to the castle are free – climb the staircase to step into the courtyard and up to the walls for a bird’s-eye view of the city. Closed on Tuesday.

A world-class museum in the heart of the city

Marking the medieval centre of the city is the towering 12th-century Palazzo Pretorio (palazzopretorio.prato.it; adult/child €8/4), former centre of political power. Today it is the most important museum in the city, housing over 3000 artworks including masterpieces such as Agnolo Gaddi’s Madonna col Bambino (1392–95), Pietro di Miniato’s Incoronazione della Vergine e i Santi Mattia e Matteo (1412–13) and Alessandro Allori’s Miracolo del Grano (1603). Spread across the three floors, Palazzo Pretorio stands up to the more famous Florentine art institutions thanks to its vast collection of Gothic, Renaissance and post-Renaissance artwork. The impressive hall of the great altarpieces, on the 2nd floor, features large-scale paintings produced between the 16th and 18th centuries for major churches around Tuscany, while the top floor showcases works by Prato-born Lorenzo Bartolini and great views over the city from the Gothic-style windows.

Donatello’s touch

The 13th-century Cattedrale di Santo Stefano, built over a previous church and following the Romanesque taste of the era, is the city’s main religious structure. On the right corner of the facade, notice the famous Pergamo del Sacro Cingolo (1434–38), the semicircular pulpit created by Michelozzo and Donatello. Enter to admire works by Agnolo Gaddi, Paolo Uccello, Giovanni Pisano and Fra’ Filippo Lippi’s early Renaissance cycle of frescoes found behind the altar, praised by both Michelangelo and Vasari.

Avant-garde international art

In contrast to the preserved artworks of centuries past are the exhibitions of the brilliant Centro Pecci, the futuristic contemporary art centre, which hosts rotating shows featuring internationally acclaimed visual and performing artists under its distinctive golden roof. Find it 3km from Prato’s city centre. Check what’s on at centropecci.it.

Cattedrale di Santo Stefano, Prato | Simone Crespiatico/shutterstock ©

CHINESE PRATO

As you leave behind Prato’s urban core from Porta Pistoiese, you’ll soon notice the vast number of shops, restaurants, garment mills and warehouses marked with Chinese-language signs. It is here, in the neighbourhood surrounding Via Pistoiese, that one of Europe’s largest Chinese communities has formed the new nucleus of Prato’s textile industry – a pillar of ‘Made in Italy’ fashion.

The first wave of Chinese migrants reached Prato between the late 1980s and the early 1990s. Officially, residents of Chinese origin have grown from nearly 2000 in 1994 to over 28,000 in 2022, but undocumented migrants could mean a significantly higher number, positioning Prato as having one of the largest Chinese populations in Europe according to estimates.

MORE ABOUT CHINESE PRATO

Read more about the Chinese community and the textile industry in Prato here.

Eating & Drinking in Prato

MAG56: With a top-notch cocktail bar and a raw seafood menu, MAG56 serves refined dishes just outside the historic centre. 7pm-midnight Tue-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat €€

Osteria su Santa Trinita: Homemade comfort food served under elegant painted vaults with a wide offer of local wines to pair. 7.30-11pm Tue-Sat, 12.30-3pm Sun €€

Pepe Nero: Chef Mirko Giannoni prepares refined revisitations of classic Tuscan dishes in his award-winning restaurant. noon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Mon-Sat €€€

Gelateria Zucchero: Artisanal gelato with many gluten-free options available. 1-11pm Mon-Fri, noon-11pm Sat, 11am-11pm Sun €

Places We Love to Stay

€ Budget €€ Midrange €€€ Top End

Pisa

Hostel Pisa Tower € Budget option steps away from the Leaning Tower. Friendly staff and clean dorms, but bring your own padlock.

Hotel Bologna €€ Not the newest property in town, but a great location (despite the name) for exploring. An excellent breakfast in the morning.

AwesHome Villa Tower €€ Located near the university quarter, in a quiet corner of town with a lovely garden and parking spaces nearby.

B&B Camilla €€ No detail goes unchecked at this lovely family-run B&B a short walk from charming Borgo Stretto.

Rinascimento B&B €€€ The exterior of this medieval casa-torre (tower house) hides a modern boutique hotel that tastefully blends the old with the new.

San Miniato

B&B Casa Dalma € This family-run B&B, located 1km from San Miniato’s historic centre, will make you feel at home as soon as you step inside.

Convento San Francesco € Hosting mainly modern-day pilgrims hiking the Via Francigena, this volunteer-run convent has no frills but plenty of historic charm.

Hotel Miravalle €€ Beautiful views over Tuscany’s hilly countryside from this historic hilltop palace, turned into a four-star hotel with huge rooms.

Hotel San Miniato €€ Housed in a medieval convent, this hotel blends classic elegance with a modern spa to recover after a truffle hunt.

Lucca

Alla Corte degli Angeli €€ Old charm, elegance and a great location, in a quiet spot near Palazzo Pfanner.

La Boheme €€ Spacious rooms in a neutral colour palette make for a relaxing stay in the heart of the city.

Hotel Ilaria €€€ Sophisticated four-star property by Villa Bottini with uniquely furnished rooms combining modern and vintage touches.

Garfagnana

Il Pradicciolo €€ Homely agriturismo in Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, where welcoming Silvia delights every visitor with homemade treats, including chestnut bread, jams and wine.

Il Casale delle Pianacce €€ Rustic and welcoming, this B&B features ample outdoor space and exceptional views.

Agriturismo Ai Frati €€ Set in the 15th-century Convento di San Francesco, this farmhouse surrounded by greenery is minutes away from Castelnuovo.

Agriturismo Tripala €€ The location of family-run Tripala doesn’t get much better – the views of the Alpi Apuane from the swimming pool are exceptional. Regular concerts are held in the garden throughout summer.

Mulin del Rancone €€ A former mill converted into a welcoming, family-run farm stay in the heart of Garfagnana.

Ai Canipai €€ Great location to reach both the Parco Avventura Selva del Buffardello and the Parco dell’Orecchiella.

Borgo del Sole €€ Right in the middle of a valley embrace by the Alpi Apuane are these four charming apartments ideal to get away from it all.

Agriturismo Borgo Biaia €€€ At this bucolic farmstay near Camporgiano, a relaxing swimming pool helps you recover after a day of exploring.

Barga

Al Benefizio €€ The wonderful location surrounded by greenery and the mountains makes for a restful stay.

Acchiappasogni €€€ Artistic vibes abound in this modern property sitting right in the heart of Barga.

Pontremoli

B&B Ai Chiosi € Charming stone-built property surrounded by greenery near Villa Dosi Delfini in Pontremoli.

Agriturismo Il Glicine e la Lanterna €€ Bucolic farm stay (with an outdoor swimming pool) outside of Pontremoli.

Agriturismo Ca’ del Lupo €€ Located in a 19th-century farmhouse nestled in the Apennines, Ca’ del Lupo means quiet nights and comfort food.

Eastern Tuscany

CASTLE-DOTTED BORDERLAND VALLEYS

Fascinating traces of a long-gone past still mark the lush landscapes climbing onto the Apennines.

Parco Nazionale delle Foreste Casentinesi, Casentino | Travelvolo/shutterstock ©

Bordering Emilia-Romagna, Umbria and Le Marche, eastern Tuscany combines scenic landscapes of forested Apennine slopes with an artistic heritage that few take the time to experience. The provinces of Florence and Arezzo meet in the protected grounds of the Parco Nazionale delle Foreste Casentinesi, home of UNESCO-listed primeval forests and the source of Tuscany’s main water course, the Arno river.

The uncrowded hilltop towns overlooking agricultural valleys and the soft ridges of Italy’s mountainous backbone have been loved since the Middle Ages by the region’s elite – the Medici included – who escaped the city routine to their opulent countryside fortifications, seeking the peace and quiet that monks and future saints had retreated to for their spiritual enlightenment. Timeless hermitages and towering stone castles embraced by cypresses surround the valleys where Giotto, Piero della Francesca and Giorgio Vasari grew up, forming the visions that would later become central to the region’s artistic heritage.

Direct rail connections to many of the towns in the area allow for surprising day or weekend trips, fuelled by tortelli alle patate (potato-filled pasta), while ancient pilgrimage routes and new long-distance hiking trails cut through the lush flora of the Mugello and the Casentino, making Tuscany’s eastern flank an ideal destination for slow journeys of discovery.

Biblioteca Rilliana, Castello dei Conti Guidi, Poppi | DEA / S. VANNINI/getty images ©

THE MAIN AREAS

AREZZO

Cinematic streets and historic sights.

BORGO SAN LORENZO

Castles and countryside living.

Find Your Way

Eastern Tuscany is split between the Florentine Mugello in the north and the valleys of Arezzo’s province in the south, while the Apennines, with its protected forests and remote monastic communities, runs along the Emilia-Romagna border.

Plan Your Time

Take a few days to tour the native lands of some of Tuscany’s greatest artists, or leave the urban behind to seek the high grounds with a long-distance hike across the Apennines.

Fiera Antiquaria di Arezzo | Albert Schweitzer/shutterstock ©

An Arezzo Day Trip

• Visit Arezzo on the first weekend of the month to catch the Fiera Antiquaria, one of Tuscany’s largest antique fairs. Dedicate a few hours to discovering the early work of one of the greats of the Renaissance, Arezzo native Giorgio Vasari. As you walk the streets, see if you can spot some of the film locations used for the Academy Award–winning movie Life Is Beautiful.

A Weekend of Photography & Nature

• Take a day to explore charming Cortona to learn about Tuscany’s Etruscan roots and catch a photography show at the Cortona on the Move festival, running between July and October. Continue to Camaldoli and put on your hiking boots to reach the Benedictine Sacro Eremo di Camaldoli.

Seasonal highlights

WINTER

Starting from November, light shows, markets and a Ferris wheel bring the Christmas spirit to Arezzo.

SPRING

As days get warmer and the weather clears, the Casentino opens up with endless opportunities for hiking.

SUMMER

Photography festival Cortona on the Move runs throughout the summer in Cortona’s Fortezza del Girifalco.

AUTUMN

The little town of Marradi comes to life during its chestnut festival, held every Sunday of the month.

Arezzo

ETRUSCAN HERITAGE | ANTIQUES | RENAISSANCE ARCHITECTURE

Nestled between four valleys – the Valtiberina, Valdarno, Valdichiana and Casentino – Tuscany’s fourth city by population has evolved over the centuries from Etruscan trading post to influential political and artistic centre, showing traces of overlapping eras in its cinematic historic centre. During the 11th century Arezzo established itself as a flourishing independent republic, a city-state whose commitment to the Ghibelline cause would lead to continuous clashes with Guelph Florence. On 11 June 1289, Arezzo experienced a major defeat during the Battle of Campaldino – a conflict with over 10,000 soldiers on each side, including none other than a young Dante Alighieri – and a century later, in 1384, the city was ultimately subjugated by the Florentine. The most enduring symbols of the Florentine era are from the 16th century – the works by Piero della Francesca and legendary architect Giorgio Vasari survived the WWII bombing of the city and remain some of the most valued treasures of historic Arezzo today.

HIGHLIGHTS

1Cappella Bacci

2Museo Archeologico Nazionale ‘Gaio Cilnio Mecenate’

3Piazza Grande

SIGHTS

4Badia delle Sante Flora e Lucilla

5Cattedrale dei Santi Pietro e Donato

6Museo di Casa Vasari

7Museo Nazionale d’Arte Medievale e Moderna

8Parrocchia della Santissima Annunziata

9Roman Amphitheatre

SLEEPING

10Antiche Mura

11B&B Ghibellino

12De’ Montetini

13Il Piccolo Cavour

14La Corte del Re

15Palazzo dei Bostoli

EATING

16Antica Osteria L’Agania

17Chiantineria

18Octavin

19Sunflower

DRINKING

20Caffè Vasari

21Emilio

22Hoppy Lab

23Sottopiazza

SHOPPING

24Fiera Antiquaria di Arezzo

GETTING AROUND

Arezzo is easily reached from Florence’s Santa Maria Novella station by train in about one hour. A train connecting Arezzo with the main Casentino settlements runs regularly, but you’ll need a car to reach the more remote corners of the mountainous area.

TOP TIP

Besides the major attractions, Arezzo houses many minor museums, such as the Gold Museum Orodautore and I Colori della Giostra, an exhibition dedicated to the heritage of the Giostra del Saracino. The Musei Arezzo Pass (museiarezzo.it; €20) gives you access to all of the city’s museums and is valid for 72 hours.

Piero della Francesca’s Vivid Frescoes

Admire the Renaissance art of Cappella Bacci

Located in the apse of the 14th-century Basilica di San Francesco, Cappella Bacci (museiarezzo.it/affreschi-di-piero-della-francesca; €9) houses Piero della Francesca’s fresco cycle, Leggenda della Vera Croce (Legend of the True Cross), painted between 1452 and 1466. It is one of the most important pieces of Renaissance art to be found outside of Florence. The 12 scenes depict the story of the cross on which Christ was crucified – the narrative begins with Seth planting a tree on Adam’s grave, from which the True Cross is made, and features Renaissance-style gowns and architecture inspired by Leon Battista Alberti. Due to its popularity, only 30 visitors are allowed every half-hour. Booking in advance is essential.

The City’s Etruscan & Roman Origins

See Arezzo’s ancient relics

Few are the Etruscan traces still visible in Arezzo’s urban topography. The enduring symbol of the city is the Chimera di Arezzo – a fire-spitting hybrid monster combining the head and body of a lion, a snake for a tail and a goat’s head growing from the creature’s back. When a well-preserved statue of the chimera dating to the 5th century BCE was discovered in 1553, Cosimo I de’ Medici immediately brought this inestimable piece of Etruscan art back to Florence (where it is still found there in the Museo Archeologico Nazionale).

In 2022 a copy of the mythical beast’s sculpture was placed outside Arezzo’s train station, but the original symbols of the city’s early history live in the Museo Archeologico Nazionale ‘Gaio Cilnio Mecenate’ (museiarezzo.it; €6), the first stop for those wanting to learn about the ancient history of the settlement once known as Aritim. The museum, just a five-minute walk from the train station, is housed across two floors of the former Monastero di San Bernardo and showcases the famed Cratere di Euphronios, a Greek ceramic vase depicting Hercules in battle dating to 510 BCE, next to a vast collection of Etruscan and Roman artefacts. The archaeological museum faces the elliptical Roman Amphitheatre, built between the 1st and 2nd centuries, whose arena is nearly as large as that of Rome’s Colosseum.

AREZZO’S ANTIQUE FAIR

For a chance to add an art treasure to your own personal collection like Cosimo I did with the Chimera di Arezzo, visit Arezzo on the first Sunday of every month or the Saturday prior, when one of Tuscany’s largest antique fairs takes place in Piazza Grande. The Fiera Antiquaria di Arezzo (fieraantiquaria.org) has been running for over half a century and sees more than 400 vendors setting up their stands in the city’s main square. Starting from 9am, you can find unique pieces of furniture, rare design items and collectible homewares on sale from vendors coming to Arezzo from all over Italy.

VASARI IN FLORENCE

Giorgio Vasari is primarily known for his Florentine works – the Corridoio Vasariano stretching above Ponte Vecchio, the loggia of the Uffizi and the frescoes adorning Palazzo Vecchio’s Salone dei Cinquecento.

In Giorgio Vasari’s Footsteps

In the footsteps of a Renaissance great

Painter, architect, sculptor and author, Giorgio Vasari was born in Arezzo in 1511. He is a defining figure of Tuscany’s art heritage, and often considered the initiator of art history as a field of study thanks to his literary magnum opus The Lives – his collection of biographies of some of the greatest Renaissance artists, still an influential source for understanding Tuscany’s golden age.

In Arezzo the roots of Vasari’s legacy are found on Via XX Settembre inside the Museo di Casa Vasari (museiarezzo.it; €4). The artist’s family home was inherited by Vasari in 1541 and he decorated its rooms with marvellous frescoes between trips to Florence and Rome. The museum is also home to the Archivio Vasari, which preserves letters sent to Michelangelo, Cosimo I de’ Medici and Pope Pius V, among other important figures of the Renaissance.

Many of Vasari’s early paintings are scattered around the city. By walking down Via XX Settembre you’ll soon reach the Museo Nazionale d’Arte Medievale e Moderna (museiarezzo.it, €6), housed inside the elegant Palazzo Bruni Ciocchi. Vasari’s Convito per le nozze di Ester e Assuero – one of the largest panel paintings of the 16th century, measuring over 7m in length – is exhibited here next to works by Buonamico Buffalmacco, Andrea della Robbia and Pietro Lorenzetti. Nearby, the Parrocchia della Santissima Annunziata showcases the Deposizione dalla Croce painting.

Further south, in Piazza della Badia, is the 13th-century Badia delle Sante Flora e Lucilla, whose bare, imposing facade hides the colossal altar designed by Vasari for his family chapel, under Andrea Pozzo’s baroque illusion, the fake dome dominating the ceiling. This artistic journey ends with an architectural masterpiece by returning to the sloping Piazza Grande, where the Logge del Vasari, commissioned in 1572 by Cosimo I de’ Medici, line the northern side of the square.

Roman Amphitheatre | PENOFOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

MORE VASARI AROUND AREZZO

Before moving to Florence to work for the Medici and reaching the peak of his career through major projects like the Uffizi and Palazzo Vecchio’s Salone dei Cinquecento, Renaissance artist and architect Giorgio Vasari worked on many projects in the region surrounding his native Arezzo.

Vasari’s paintings can still be found adorning minor churches in the area. The Monastero di Camaldoli houses the Madonna con Bambino e i Santi Giovanni e Girolamo (1537) and the Natività (1538), while Monte San Savino’s Chiesa di Sant’Agostino is home to L’Assunzione (1539), and the Chiesa di San Francesco in Castiglion Fiorentino, 20km north of Arezzo, showcases the Madonna con Bambino e Santi (1549).

EATING IN AREZZO

Antica Osteria Agania: Old-school recipes and rustic vibes make no-frills Agania one of Arezzo’s top options for classic Tuscan dining. noon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm Wed-Sun €

Chiantineria: Stop for a local cheese and cured-meats platter or a full meal at this historic restaurant with an intimate atmosphere. 11am-midnight Wed-Mon €€

Sunflower: Seasonal flavours, genuine ingredients and vegan options combine to bring in the gelato-keen crowds. noon-11pm Sun-Tue & Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat €

Octavin: Michelin-starred restaurant in the city centre making creative cuisine its trademark. Seasonal tasting menus available. 12.30-2pm & 7.30-9pm Thu-Tue €€€

Life Is Beautiful in Arezzo

Tour La Vita è Bella film locations

Roberto Benigni’s 1997 film La Vita è Bella (Life Is Beautiful) is one of the most acclaimed movies to emerge from the Italian contemporary film scene, winner of three Academy Awards and nine David di Donatello Awards. It tells the story of Guido Orefice, a Jewish man, played by Benigni himself, who moves to the city in search of work during the Fascist era and is later sent to a concentration camp with his son Giosuè. La Vita è Bella has left a mark in Italy’s collective memory through the many iconic scenes filmed in Arezzo, and you can visit their locations while here.

In the film, Guido cycles through Piazza della Badia, crossing paths with Dora, the teacher he loves (played by Nicoletta Braschi). Connecting Piazza della Badia with Piazza Grande – another recurring backdrop of the movie – are Via Cavour and Corso Italia. Via Cavour is home to the now-closed Caffè dei Costanti, an old-school cafe that is seen in the film denying entry to Jewish people. Corso Italia leads to the imposing Cattedrale dei Santi Pietro e Donato, Arezzo’s Duomo (with stained-glass windows by Guillaume de Marcillat and Andrea della Robbia’s glazed terracotta sculptures), outside which Benigni drove the 1934 Fiat 508 Balilla Torpedo car to impress Dora, before laying a red carpet across the cathedral’s staircase to avoid her stepping into puddles.

Piazza Grande | ermess/shutterstock ©

KNIGHTS ON HORSEBACK

Twice a year, on the second-last Saturday in June and the first Sunday of September, Piazza Grande hosts Arezzo’s much-awaited Giostra del Saracino. This reenactment of an ancient game has been held in Arezzo for nearly a century and features knights from the city’s four districts – Porta Crucifera, Porta del Foro, Porta Sant’Andrea and Porta Santo Spirito – competing in an adrenaline-fuelled challenge. Dressed in traditional medieval costumes, the knights charge at full speed on horseback, aiming to strike the Saracino, a rotating target representing the King of the Indies, with their lances. The winners are awarded the sought-after ‘golden spear’, a symbol of honor and prestige in the city.

DRINKING IN AREZZO: BARS & PUBS

Caffè Vasari: Settle in for an aperitivo under Vasari’s loggia. Prices are slightly higher than average given the prime location in Piazza Grande. 8am-11pm Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat

Sottopiazza: Trendy cocktail and wine bar in Piazza San Francesco offering a range of gins, served until late. 5pm-1am Mon, Wed & Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, 4pm-1am Sun

Emilio: Craft cocktails are prepared with care and personality at this little Via Garibaldi bar, worth a stop if you’re craving something unusual. 6.30pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat

Hoppy Lab: Your craft-beer destination in Arezzo, with five taps and over 50 bottled brews. 4pm-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1.30am Fri, 11.30am-1.30am Sat, 11.30am-midnight Sun

Beyond Arezzo

Find a place to disconnect in Casentino’s forests or seek fresh inspiration in Cortona – it’s your call.

Surrounded by the Casentino, the Valdichiana and the Valdarno valleys, the province of Arezzo has long been admired by international film-makers for its combination of scenic countryside, ancient settlements and tranquil atmosphere embraced by the untamed nature of the Apennines. Besides a typically Tuscan character, however, this corner of the region hides a dynamic artistic drive, which blends international and contemporary influences with the traces left by the legendary Renaissance masters born in the region. Get your fill of art and architecture in the small towns that dot the area before taking some time to reflect on your discoveries in the forest trails that link remote sanctuaries and hermitages.

GETTING AROUND

Arezzo is conveniently located on the A1/E35 highway, which allows you to easily explore the Chianti region, the Valdichiana valley and the Val d’Orcia by car. The city is also well connected by train to major cities like Florence and Rome. An additional railway line runs to Stia in the Casentino region, but a car will be useful for reaching the rural parts of eastern Tuscany, such as the hermitages of La Verna and Camaldoli.

CortonaTIME FROM AREZZO: 45 MINS jpg

A picture-perfect hilltop town

Perched on top of a 500m-tall hill, historic Cortona has attracted an increasing flow of international visitors after director Audrey Wells chose the town as the backdrop for her 2003 film Under the Tuscan Sun. Wells’ choice was well justified – when it comes to picturesque scenery, Cortona is hard to beat.

The city, whose origins date back to Etruscan times despite the clearly medieval urban development, stretches out from the central Piazza della Repubblica, where the 12th-century Romanesque town hall stands imposingly at the end of a wide staircase, above the cafes and restaurants with tables spilling onto the stone pavement. Steps away is Piazza Signorelli, where you can find the neoclassical Teatro Signorelli, the heart of Cortona’s cultural scene, built in the 19th century and accessible through its seven-arched loggia, and the town’s most important museum, the Museo dell’Accademia Etrusca di Cortona (MAEC), housed inside the 13th-century Palazzo Casali.

The first two floors of the MAEC showcase the findings of the academy (founded in 1727 by a group of scholars and historians), gathered over the course of the past three centuries, including a precious bronze chandelier dating back to the 4th century BCE, found in 1840. The MAEC also functions as the information point for exploring the Etruscan remnants that surround Cortona, such as the Tomba Etrusca di Mezzavia, Tumulo di Camucia and the Tanella di Pitagora.

Around the town’s core many great viewpoints await. Walk to the Romanesque Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, home of fine paintings by Pietro da Cortona and Luca Signorelli, to admire the Valdichiana from above. Or head to the Fortezza del Girifalco, built by the Medici in the 16th century on the foundations of a former defensive structure, for a bird’s-eye view over the city and its hilly surroundings.

Caprese MichelangeloTIME FROM AREZZO: 1 HR jpg

Visit Michelangelo’s birthplace

Located 40km north of Arezzo’s centre is the little town of Caprese Michelangelo – you can trust your intuition when guessing who was born here. The Museo Casa Natale di Michelangelo Buonarroti (adult/child €5/2.50) is housed in the stone-built fortification dating back to the 11th century, where the legendary creator of the David sculpture was born on 6 March 1475. The museum traces the evolution of Michelangelo’s style through a collection of plaster-cast replicas obtained from original works in the 1960s and 1970s.

CORTONA’S PHOTOGRAPHY FESTIVAL

One of Tuscany’s most prominent contemporary photography festivals, Cortona on the Move, takes place annually in the charming hilltop town of Cortona from July to October. This prestigious event showcases thought-provoking works by both Italian and international photographers at iconic locations such as the historic Fortezza del Girifalco, along with various other spots throughout the city, creating a wonderful contrast between contemporary art and Cortona’s rich Renaissance heritage.

Alongside the exhibitions, aspiring professional photographers can participate in the workshops organised during the festival and learn from big names in visual arts and photojournalism. The next edition’s full program can be found at cortonaonthemove.com.

EATING IN CORTONA

La Bucaccia: Stone walls and dark-wood decor complement the southern Tuscan cuisine at this rustic-chic restaurant. Try the pici. 12.30-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm Tue-Sun €€

Osteria del Teatro: Traditional fare takes centre stage in the elegant hall of this Renaissance palace. 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm Mon, Thu, Fri & Sun, to 10.30pm Tue & Sat €€

Birrificio Cortonese: This pub serves local craft beers and hearty classics such as wild-boar pappardelle and roasted pork shanks. 11.30am-2.30pm & 6.30-9.30pm Thu-Tue €€

Taverna Pane e Vino: Locally loved trattoria serving generous cheese platters, plus handmade pasta and traditional mains. 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sun €€

SansepolcroTIME FROM AREZZO: 45 MINS jpg

The history of herbal remedies

Sansepolcro’s Palazzo Bourbon del Monte houses the fascinating Aboca Museum (abocamuseum.it; €8), dedicated to the tradition of herbalism rooted in the Valtiberina. Blending science and local history, Aboca takes you on a journey through laboratory instruments used in centuries past to prepare medicinal potions with natural ingredients. Enter the herb room where hundreds of dried medicinal plants hang from the ceiling then continue to the self-explanatory poison cellar and peek in the library where 1500 rare volumes preserve the secrets of this ancient craft.

CasentinoTIME FROM AREZZO: 1 HR jpg

Medieval memories in Poppi

Rising on the western banks of the Arno, the Castello dei Conti Guidi has long been the defining symbol of the ancient borgo of Poppi, one of the larger medieval hamlets dotting the Casentino valley. A fief of the powerful Guidi family from 1191 to 1440, Poppi was the site of an important conflict in Tuscany’s history – the 1289 Battle of Campaldino, when the Florentine Guelphs fought Arezzo’s Ghibellines in the valley extending below the hilltop fortification, opening the way for the Florentine takeover of the region.

Poppi has largely maintained its medieval imprint. The Castello dei Conti Guidi (€7), whose elegant interiors are embellished with numerous coats of arms made by the della Robbia family of ceramics masters, hosted Dante for a year in 1310 when the author – now with a bust outside the entrance – was exiled from Florence.

The structure houses the historic Biblioteca Rilliana – a collection of over 25,000 ancient manuscripts – and a museum with a model of the historic battle, aptly named L’Inferno di Campaldino (Campaldino’s Hell). The highlight, however, is the Cappella Conti Guidi, whose walls and ceiling are adorned with a 13th-century cycle of frescoes, attributed to Taddeo Gaddi, pupil of Giotto, depicting scenes from the lives of John the Evangelist, the Virgin Mary and John the Baptist.

Castello dei Conti Guidi, Poppi | Robert Harding Video/shutterstock ©

MORE NOTABLE HOMES

In Sansepolcro you’ll find the birthplace of another Renaissance great – Piero della Francesca. Known for his innovative use of perspective and complex geometrical compositions, Piero della Francesca was born here in 1412 and is believed to have expanded his family home over the course of his life, making the Casa Natale di Piero della Francesca the only known architectural project the artist worked on.

In San Giovanni Valdarno stands Casa Masaccio, the house of early Renaissance painter Tommaso di Ser Giovanni di Simone, better known as Masaccio, creator of the frescoes in Florence’s Cappella Brancacci. The house has been converted into a contemporary museum hosting rotating exhibitions of local and international sculptors and painters.

EATING IN POPPI

La Taverna del Castello: Local specialities, including great desserts, served under exposed-brick archways near the castle. 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-11pm Wed-Mon €€

Osteria del Tempo Perso: A fun pub atmosphere blends with the rustic style of this quirky little restaurant in the heart of Poppi. hours vary Thu-Tue €

Il Mattarello: The place to try Casentino’s famed tortelli alle patate, along with many other homemade pasta dishes. 9am-1pm & 4-6.30pm Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun €

Laquolina Bistrot: Tuscan cuisine with a contemporary touch, steps away from Poppi’s Castle. noon-2.30pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sun €€

Explore a lush borderland

Stretching across the border of Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna are the abundant forests covering the Apennines that form the Parco Nazionale delle Foreste Casentinesi, a mountainous nature reserve dotted by monasteries and hermitages praised for its scenery since Dante’s time. The majority of the national park expands into the Emilia-Romagna side, where you can find the Riserva Naturale Sasso Fratino – the primeval beech forests given World Heritage Site status in 2017 – but hiking and bicycling trails are easily accessed from Tuscany as well.

Those looking for a challenging hike can tackle the seven-day Sentiero delle Foreste Sacre, crossing the border back and forth between Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna from Lago di Ponte to the La Verna sanctuary (GPX track available at parcoforestecasentinesi.it), or the 27-day Alta Via dei Parchi (altaviadeiparchi.eu), running across Emilia-Romagna, Tuscany and Le Marche through eight nature reserves, including the Parco Nazionale delle Foreste Casentinesi.

La Verna | Claudio Giovanni Colombo/shutterstock ©

A WORTHY DAY TRIP

The city of Assisi in neighbouring Umbria makes for a great day trip from Arezzo, especially for those willing to continue their Franciscan wanderings. Visitors can visit the Basilica di San Francesco, home to the tomb of St Francis, one of the most important religious landmarks in Italy. For those with a passion for long-distance walking and spiritual journeys, Assisi can be reached by following the Via di Francesco, a scenic pilgrimage route stretching from La Verna through Gubbio to Assisi. The journey in the footsteps of St Francis stretches for 189km and takes between eight and 10 days to be completed. GPX tracks can be downloaded at viadifrancesco.it.

Discover Stia’s age-old traditions and new trails

From Florence or Arezzo you can drive up to Stia, the hamlet perched under Monte Falterona where the Arno river originates. Here you can visit the Museo dell’Arte della Lana (museodellalana.it; €5), tracing the history of the textile industry in the area, and the little Museo del Bosco e della Montagna (open Sunday), housing a collection of over 500 stuffed birds once belonging to Stia’s former mayor Carlo Beni.

For those with a cycling bent, a 220km cycling path following the Arno from Stia to its mouth at Marina di Pisa was being built at the time of writing – the Ciclovia dell’Arno will allow a leisurely journey across the region on two wheels, running from east to west through 57 municipalities. At the time of writing about 70% of the project had been completed; it is still unclear when the rest of the route will be finished. Much of the first section in the Casentino area and the route between Florence and Pisa are already viable. The route runs mostly downhill and near urban areas, making it suitable for everyone, including beginners.

Hike to Camaldoli’s hermitage

Take the beautiful SR71 road that starts from Bibbiena and cuts through Casentino’s forests to reach Camaldoli, where the trail leading to the Sacro Eremo di Camaldoli begins. The Monastero di Camaldoli marks the centre of the hilltop town and the start of the route that leads up to the sacred hermitage. Before starting, it’s worth stepping into the church to admire the paintings by Giorgio Vasari preserved here: Deposizione dalla Croce, Natività, San Donato, San Ilariano and Vergine in trono tra San Giovanni Battista e San Girolamo. From the monastery, you can start the climb to the hermitage. There are two ways of getting there – a short but steep 3km path or a longer but more accessible 6km trail. Consider three to four hours to get there and back. Camaldoli’s hermitage – founded by Benedictine monks in the 11th century – is a tiny, peaceful monastery nestled in the greenery at an altitude of 1100m. A monastic community still lives here, so be respectful when looking around.

St Francis of Assisi’s trail

One of Italy’s most prominent religious figures, Giovanni di Pietro di Bernardone – better known as St Francis of Assisi – spent much of his life roaming eastern Tuscany attempting to spread the gospel and searching for spiritually favourable remote retreats. Born in Assisi to a wealthy family of traders in 1182, Giovanni gave up all of his material belongings in the early 13th century, devoting the rest of his life to prayer.

His wanderings led to the hermitage of La Verna in 1224, where Francis is said to have received the stigmata. Since then, the Santuario della Verna, located in a remote corner of the Parco Nazionale delle Foreste Casentinesi above a towering rock formation among beech trees, has become a pilgrimage destination, which can be reached on foot from Florence over six days (or in a few hours by car). The historic complex includes the beautifully frescoed Corridoio delle Stimmate and the Cappella delle Stimmate, built in 1263 and adorned with Andrea della Robbia’s glorious Crucifixion (1481). Another notable work by della Robbia, the Annunciazione (1475), is found inside Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta, near the small museum recounting the life of the monastic order that has taken care of the place over the centuries.

Other important sites tied to the life of St Francis of Assisi are the stone-built Eremo di Montecasale, located near Sansepolcro on the border with Umbria, which hosted the saint in 1213, and the Castello di Montauto, near Anghiari, where Francis used to stay during his travels.

THE BATTLE OF ANGHIARI

The battle fought on 29 June 1440, in the town of Anghiari, 30km northeast of Arezzo, has become legendary due to a large-scale painting commissioned to Leonardo da Vinci for the Salone dei Cinquecento of Florence’s Palazzo Vecchio, which was never completed and whose preparatory sketches were lost.

Thousands of soldiers and mercenaries participated in the clash between the Republic of Florence and the Duchy of Milan, which lasted only one day but allowed Florence to establish its control over southeastern Tuscany, becoming a symbol of the Republic’s military prowess. The Museo della Battaglia di Anghiari, under renovation at the time of writing, tells the story of the war and the mystery behind Leonardo’s painting.

Borgo San Lorenzo

ART NOUVEAU | ROLLING HILLS | AUTHENTIC FLAVOURS

On their way to Bologna, most visitors simply transit though the area known as the Mugello, the northeastern corner of Tuscany bordering Emilia-Romagna, despite it being within easy reach of Florence. The region framed by the Apennine mountains, however, is worth dedicating some time to. Borgo San Lorenzo – the main settlement in the area, under Florentine control since the 10th century – functions as a base to explore forested slopes, UNESCO-listed Medicean villas and Roman roads. It is also one of Tuscany’s most important Art Nouveau centres, thanks to the work of local artist Galileo Chini who, during the early 20th century, adorned the city with modern patterns and palettes to complement its medieval character. Between one day trip and the next, refuel with hearty cuisine influenced by the nearby Romagna, and toast to new discoveries with a glass of vodka made from locally sourced wheat and spelt.

HIGHLIGHTS

1Pieve di San Lorenzo

SIGHTS

2Porta dell’Orologio

3Porta Fiorentina

SLEEPING

4Locanda degli Artisti

EATING

5Borgo!

6Magn’etico Osteria

7Ristorante Du-ca

Ristorante Gli Artisti (see 4)

GETTING AROUND

Trains run frequently from Florence’s Santa Maria Novella station to Borgo San Lorenzo, taking approximately 40 minutes. You can buy tickets online at trenitalia.com or directly at the station from the automatic vending machine. From Borgo San Lorenzo’s railway station the town’s centre is a short walk away.

TOP TIP

A great way to explore the Tuscan countryside is to cycle from Florence to Borgo San Lorenzo (approximately 30km) and then return by taking your bike on the train. The climb up to Fiesole is the toughest – after that the slopes get more gentle.

Art Nouveau Central

Discover the artistic legacy of Galileo Chini

Founded in Roman times and built around the Pieve di San Lorenzo, whose origins date back to the 10th century, Borgo San Lorenzo is the Mugello’s main hub, with over 18,000 residents. The 14th-century walls and the two city gates – Porta Fiorentina and Porta dell’Orologio – are a reminder of Borgo San Lorenzo’s medieval origins. However, the town’s character has been transformed over the course of the past century by artist Galileo Chini who, in the early 1900s, took over the family ceramics business and began experimenting with new decorative styles. He founded the Fornaci San Lorenzo factory and quickly became known as one of Italy’s most prominent representatives of the Art Nouveau (known as ‘Liberty’ in Italy).

Many artistic traces of the Chini family adorn Borgo San Lorenzo today, starting with the interiors of Villa Pecori Giraldi, which houses the Museo Chini and a vast collection of frescoes and pottery that mark the evolution of Chini’s iconic style. Early-20th-century art, however, isn’t just museum material – Borgo San Lorenzo’s urban fabric has been colourfully altered by the Chini factory. This is evident when walking through Viale della Repubblica, where wrought-iron balconies and ceramic decorations set residential homes apart, or when visiting the elegant town hall, where stained-glass windows and floor tiles form geometrical patterns echoing the belle époque.

The most important symbol of Galileo Chini’s legacy is found inside the Romanesque Pieve di San Lorenzo, near the Madonna col Bambino painting attributed to Giotto. During the 1906 refurbishment of Borgo San Lorenzo’s main church, Chini painted the apse with the Cristo Redentore in Trono tra i Santi Lorenzo e Martino, a tribute to the town’s protectors St Lawrence and St Martin. Outside the church you can also see the Tabernacolo di San Francesco, produced by the Chini family in 1926.

THE MUGELLO’S VODKA

The Mugello’s very own VKA vodka comes in a classy transparent bottle, which contains a pure spirit made from organic wheat, spelt and the pure spring water that runs down from the Tuscan Apennines from Lake Bilancino. Launched in 2013, the VKA brand pays tribute to the territory of northern Tuscany, combining simple ingredients and a modern distillation process to make a product that shifts away from the wine and herbal liqueurs tradition, putting Tuscany on the map with high-end spirits. Even the glass bottle, produced in nearby Montelupo Fiorentino, reflects Tuscan pride.

EATING IN BORGO SAN LORENZO

Borgo!: A wide range of simple, refined dishes served in a hip space, with a great selection of local craft beers and wines. 7-11pm Wed-Sat, 12.30-2.30pm & 7-11pm Sun €

Magn’etico Osteria: Bright vegan-vegetarian option serving elaborately cooked organic food. 12.30-2.30pm Mon-Wed, 12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Thu-Sat €€

Ristorante Du-ca: Fresh, homemade pasta, Florentine steaks and wood-fired oven pizzas. noon-3pm & 7-11pm Mon-Fri, 7-11pm Sat €€

Ristorante Gli Artisti: Stop at this gourmet restaurant for an innovative take on traditional Tuscan cuisine. 4-10.30pm Thu-Sat, 10.30am-2.30pm & 4-10.30pm Sun €€€

Beyond Borgo San Lorenzo

Explore the Mugello one step at a time along Roman roads, in grandiose castles and on mountainous trails.

Besides the Ferrari-owned Mugello Circuit, which hosts the Italian Motorcycle Grand Prix each year in late spring, the surroundings of Borgo San Lorenzo offer a rich combination of art, history, nature and food, making for an ideal, uncrowded city escape. Some of Tuscany’s most notable artists – Giotto, Fra’ Angelico and Andrea del Castagno – were born here, and the Medici would often retreat from the Florentine bustle to their opulent properties scattered around the Mugello countryside. Seasonality here makes all the difference – visit in spring to see the flora come to life as you explore the Alto Mugello via ancient Roman roads or come in autumn to immerse yourself in nature’s warming colours and feast on chestnuts and porcini mushrooms.

GETTING AROUND

The most convenient way to travel around Borgo San Lorenzo is by car, although there are regular bus services that connect Borgo San Lorenzo to the nearby towns and cities. Trains run from Borgo San Lorenzo to the nearby cities of Florence and Marradi. There are many walking routes and trails that can be explored in the area, the most famous being the Via degli Dei connecting Bologna to Florence. These routes offer breathtaking views of the countryside and provide a great way to explore the natural beauty of the region.

San Piero a SieveTIME FROM BORGO SAN LORENZO: 10 MINS jpg

The Medicis’ countryside riches

In San Piero a Sieve, you’ll find the Villa Medicea del Trebbio, one of the earliest castles that the Medici built outside the borders of Florence. Under the orders of Cosimo the Elder, court architect Michelozzo renovated the building in 1429, which overlooks the Mugello valley, to make it look like a fort. It was later inhabited by both Lorenzo the Magnificent and Cosimo I, who regularly came here to hunt in the surrounding forests. In San Piero a Sieve you’ll also see the Fortezza Medicea di San Martino, one of the largest countryside fortifications in Europe, circled by over 1.5km of walls. Lorenzo the Magnificent also spent much of his leisure time in the Villa di Cafaggiolo, another Mugello property built (in 1451) by Michelozzo for Cosimo the Elder, where the Florentine rulers often gathered the city’s elite. Here in 1576 Piero de’ Medici strangled his wife Dianora de Toledo – her ghost is said to still haunt the villa’s grounds. These structures are not publicly accessible at the time of writing, and can only be seen from the outside.

Walking the Via degli Dei

Despite the spiritual connotation of its name, the long-distance hiking route Via degli Dei (Path of Gods) is not derived from a pilgrimage path, as are other walking itineraries in Tuscany. Conceived in 1996 by Florentine and Bolognese mountaineers of the Italian Alpine Club, the 124km route connects Bologna’s Piazza Maggiore with Florence’s Piazza della Signoria via the Appennino Tosco-Emiliano and the Mugello.

Doable in four to six days, the hike takes you along paved roads, stone-built Roman pathways and mountain trails across the Apennines. The Tuscan section of the route starts at the Passo della Futa, the mountain pass (903m altitude) reached on the Via Flamina Militare basalt road, built in 187 BCE and rediscovered in the 1970s. From here you can climb up to the cross marking the peak of Monte Gazzaro (1126m), then start the descent towards San Piero a Sieve via the Passo dell’Osteria Bruciata and Sant’Agata, with an optional detour to the 13th-century Convento Bosco ai Frati, which houses a crucifix by Donatello in its little museum.

After San Piero a Sieve you’ll enter valleys dotted with Medicean castles, passing the Convento di Monte Senario before continuing to Fiesole and eventually Florence.

Convento Bosco ai Frati | DEA / G. BARONE/getty images ©

DANTE’S WAY

Dante Alighieri, Tuscany’s most famous poet, crossed the Mugello to reach Ravenna during the final years of his life after being exiled from his native Florence in the early 14th century.

The historic train Il Treno di Dante (iltrenodidante.it) traces the poet’s footsteps. Departing from Florence, it stops at Borgo San Lorenzo, Marradi, Brisighella and Faenza before arriving at Ravenna.

Travellers with a bit more time on their hands can also walk along Il Cammino di Dante (Dante’s Way) – a 380km hiking route developed in 2012 that takes walkers to Ravenna and back via the legendary path followed by the Divine Comedy’s author.

Scarperia e San PieroTIME FROM BORGO SAN LORENZO: 10 MINS jpg

Museum of sharp tools

Next to being an important centre of agriculture, the Mugello has long been known for its production of knives, scissors and other sharp tools. The town of Scarperia has been manufacturing cutting equipment since the Middle Ages – a legacy showcased in the little Museo dei Ferri Taglienti (museoferritaglientiscarperia.it; adult/child €7/5), an exhibition space dedicated to the disappearing craft that’s housed inside the Palazzo dei Vicari. Inside the museum you’ll find a vast collection of more than 1000 knives originating from different corners of Italy, positioned next to local items, which include specimens dating back to the 1400s. Some of the last artisanal coltellerie (knife makers) still operate in the town’s centre.

Museo dei Ferri Taglienti | wikimedia commons/Massimilianogalardi ©

THE MUGELLO CIRCUIT

The typically quiet hills surrounding Borgo San Lorenzo are shaken by the sound of racing cars and motorcycles when the Autodromo Internazionale del Mugello (Mugello Circuit) hosts its races. Purchased by Ferrari in 1988 to test its Formula 1 cars, the world-famous track hosts the Italian Motorcycle Grand Prix each year in June, drawing thousands of people to Scarperia e San Piero to see athletes competing in the highest level of motorcycle road racing.

Besides the Gran Prix, the Mugello Circuit hosts many other secondary events, including the Porsche Sport Cup Swisse and the Lamera Cup. You can check the full program and purchase tickets via mugellocircuit.com.

Places We Love to Stay

€ Budget €€ Midrange €€€ Top End

Arezzo

Antiche Mura € Housed in a 13th-century building, this family-run B&B with only six rooms provides a homely atmosphere in Arezzo’s historic core.

Il Piccolo Cavour € This 16th-century palace has been completely renovated and turned into a cozy B&B, with homemade breakfast served every morning.

La Corte del Re € Right in the heart of the city, these old-charm apartments with tall ceilings and dark-wood furniture will make you feel at home every time you return between sights.

Palazzo dei Bostoli €€ Few, simple rooms located near Piazza Grande in a (refurbished) 13th-century building ideally positioned for exploring the city.

De’ Montetini €€ Steps away from the Duomo, De’ Montetini will make you feel welcome in the city with its spacious, elegant rooms and generous Italian breakfast.

B&B Ghibellino €€ A colourful, welcoming, bright atmosphere in a great location in the heart of town. Private parking available nearby.

Cortona

B&B Piccolo Hotel € Simple rooms filled with historic touches such as wrought-iron beds and dark-wood furniture make for a comfy stay near the sights.

Casa Chilenne €€ Run by San Francisco–born Jeanette and her Cortonese husband, Luciano, this welcoming B&B scales a narrow townhouse on Cortona’s main pedestrian street with five spacious rooms and a small rooftop terrace.

Il Falconiere €€€ Level up your countryside experience in this former artist residence surrounded by olive groves, less than 4km from Cortona’s heart. Michelin-starred restaurant and spa available on-site.

La Corte di Ambra €€€ Historic palace in the central Via de’ Benedetti with five attractively decorated rooms with modern bathrooms and a downstairs salon where a delicious breakfast is served.

Casentino

Camping Falterona € As close to nature as it gets, this campground near Stia is your place to disconnect.

La Guardia B&B € Basic guesthouse in Stia for those looking for an urban base from which to explore the national park and museums.

Borgo I Tre Baroni €€ About 11km from Poppi, this elegant countryside stay in a restored barn has fantastic views of the surrounding forests.

Borgo Tramonte €€ This isolated farmhouse with an inviting swimming pool offers a relaxing retreat you’ll be happy to return to after a day outdoors.

Hotel Bosco Verde €€ A large property in Badia Prataglia near the Emilia-Romagna border, ideally positioned to visit both the Franciscan sites and the Apennines.

Borgo San Lorenzo

Camping Village Mugello Verde € A large campground with a swimming pool, offering both rooms and spaces to pitch your tent.

Locanda degli Artisti €€ This small, homely guesthouse in the centre of town is easily reached from the train station.

Monsignor della Casa €€€ High-end countryside stay combining rustic touches with modern amenities including a restaurant, spa and two swimming pools.

Via degli Dei

Agriturismo La Castellana € A simple farm stay near the Tuscany–Emilia-Romagna border, where you can recharge after crossing the Passo della Futa.

B&B Tagliaferro € Housed in a 15th-century building, this homely B&B is ideally positioned on the way to Vetta le Croci.

B&B Le Cannelle €€ If you’d rather delay your return to bustling Florence, stop at this charming Fiesole hotel for one last night of relaxation.

TOOLKIT

The chapters in this section cover the most important topics you’ll need to know about in Florence and Tuscany. They’re full of nuts-and-bolts information and valuable insights to help you understand and navigate Florence and Tuscany and get the most out of your trip.

Florence | Nominesine/shutterstock ©

Arriving

Money

Getting Around

Family Travel

Health & Safe Travel

Food, Drink & Nightlife

Responsible Travel

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Accessible Travel

Accommodation

Nuts & Bolts

Language

Arriving

Tuscany’s two main entry points are Florence and Pisa. Both airports are close to their respective city centres and have frequent public transport connections. Pisa’s Galileo Galilei Airport is serviced by many low-cost airlines and has twice the passenger traffic of Florence’s Amerigo Vespucci Airport. It’s common to reach Florence via Pisa – a direct, one-hour train links the cities.

Maxx-Studio/shutterstock ©

Visas

Citizens of the Schengen Area can enter and stay indefinitely with a valid passport, while many other nationalities – including US – can stay up to 90 days without a visa.

SIM Cards

Prepaid SIM cards are available in the exchange bureaus at the Florence and Pisa airports. However, it’s cheaper to buy one in the city centres, with prepaid plans starting from around €20.

ATMs

ATMs are known in Italy as bancomat and can be found at the airport arrivals halls in both Florence and Pisa. You may not need much cash – businesses are obliged to take electronic payments by law.

Wi-Fi

Free wi-fi is available in both the Florence and Pisa airports – just connect to the ‘AirportFree WiFi’ network to start browsing.

Public transport from airport to city centre

LIMITATIONS

There are a number of limitations on goods that can be carried when travelling to and from Italy. You are not allowed to enter the EU with more than 200 cigarettes, 1L of alcohol with an ABV above 22%, 4L of wine or 16L of beer. Also, you must file a declaration if you have more than €10,000 in cash on you when entering or leaving the EU. When travelling between EU countries, you are not allowed to take with you more than 800 cigarettes and 10L of alcohol with an ABV above 22%.

Money

CURRENCY: EURO (€)

InfinitumProdux/shutterstock ©

Credit Cards

Italy has long been a cash-first country, but in recent years things have been changing and all major international cards are now widely accepted. Smaller businesses may occasionally frown upon American Express cards – it doesn’t happen often but having a backup card could be wise.

Digital Payments

All businesses must accept debit, credit or prepaid card payments or else face a fine for refusing the transaction. Electronic payments should be considered the norm, although it’s worth carrying some cash for the rare occasions when a POS machine is not working.

VAT Refunds

Non-EU citizens who spend a minimum of €154.95 in shops displaying a ‘Tax-Free’ sign can claim a VAT refund. Find out more at taxrefund.it.

Tipping

Cafes Generally not expected.

Taxis Round the total up to the nearest euro.

Restaurants It’s uncommon for locals to tip; visitors usually leave about 10%.

Hotels Bellhops typically expect €1 per bag; other staff don’t expect tips.

HOW MUCH FOR A...

Museum ticket
€8–20

Movie ticket
€8

Beach chair & umbrella (day rental)
€15–25

Tram ticket
€1.70

MUSEUM DISCOUNTS

Many cultural institutions – including all major Florentine museums – offer discounted tickets to students and seniors. During the low season (November to February) you can enter the Uffizi for €12 instead of €20, and Palazzo Pitti offers a 50% reduction to those who enter before 9am. The Firenze Card (firenzecard.it) allows access to dozens of museums in the city for €85 and is valid for 72 hours.

How to… Save Some Euros

With no shortage of restaurants, cafes and bakeries, it seems fair to let cravings lead the way. Still, there are a few tricks to save some money without missing out on flavourful experiences. First, coffee: do like Italians do and have your espresso standing at a cafe’s counter to avoid the sit-down service fee. Look for lunch deals – many trattorias offer two courses for under €15. Before dinner, having an aperitivo (pre-dinner drink) accompanied by finger food is often a meal in itself.

LOCAL TIP

While regional train tickets can be purchased on the same day of travel without any difference in price, high-speed train tickets can be significantly cheaper when booked a few weeks in advance.

Getting Around

The national rail network connects most major centres, but driving your own vehicle offers the best chance to experience Tuscany to the fullest.

TRAVEL COSTS

Car rental
From €65/day

Petrol
Approx €1.80/L

City parking
€2/hr

Florence–Pisa train ticket
€8.90

Hiring a Car

Major rental companies operate around Tuscany, with the largest offerings available in Florence. A credit card is required and you will be asked for either an EU driving licence or an International Driving Licence. Make sure you understand what is included in the price (unlimited kilometres, tax, insurance, collision damage waiver and so on) and consider vehicle size carefully; high fuel prices, narrow streets and tight parking conditions mean that smaller is almost always better.

Insurance

Third-party insurance is required to drive on Italian roads – along with a fine that can reach thousands of euros, your car can be confiscated if you’re caught driving uninsured. If you’re renting, consider purchasing additional ‘Kasko’ coverage, a comprehensive insurance covering all forms of damage to your own vehicle as well as others, regardless of who’s at fault.

Inner-City Driving

When entering historic centres look out for ‘ZTL’ signs. A zona a traffico limitato is an area where the circulation of cars is restricted during certain hours of the day. When ZTLs are active only registered vehicles are allowed to enter its borders.

Bus & Coach

Local buses running within and between Tuscan cities are managed by Autolinee Toscane (at-bus.it). The best place to check bus timetables is on the Moovit app, which tracks delays and detours in real time. Coaches are perhaps the cheapest way of travelling across long distances, with FlixBus and Itabus being the most active companies in Florence.

Train

The rail network runs between 181 stations in Tuscany, offering a cheap and mostly reliable way to explore the region. Regional-train tickets can be purchased online via trenitalia.com or at any station. Paper tickets bought at the station should be validated before boarding the train. You need to check in digitally before boarding with regional tickets bought online. High-speed trains are operated by both Trenitalia and Italo, connecting Florence with major Italian cities.

TIP

Bicycles can be carried on trains outside peak hours in the carriages that display a bicycle symbol.

George Mdivanian / EyeEm/getty images ©

DRIVING ESSENTIALS

Drive on the right-hand side of the road. The steering wheel is on the left.

The speed limit in urban centres is 50km/h.

The blood alcohol limit for drivers is 0.5g/L.

ROAD TYPES

Two-lane roads crossing urban centres, with a speed limit of between 50km/h and 70km/h, are commonly referred to as strade normali. Toll-free, multi-lane state roads marked by blue signs, with a speed limit of 90km/h, are known as superstrade. Multi-lane toll motorways with the speed limit reaching 130km/h are called autostrade. When accessing an autostrada (always marked by green signs) collect your ticket at the entry gate and keep it until the exit gate, where you’ll be asked to pay based on your distance travelled.

Bicycle

Cycling is a wonderful way to get around Tuscany. Bikes are prohibited on the autostrada, but there are few other special road rules. There are bike-rental outlets in practically every town and city. Expect to pay around €15 per day for a regular city bike, €30 for a mountain bike and €50 for an electric bike, all including bike lock and helmet.

Ferry

Year-round, regular ferries connect Piombino on the mainland with Portoferraio on Elba, and the smaller ports of Cavo and Rio Marina. From Livorno, ferries run to the island of Capraia, also year-round

Parking

Parking spaces outlined in blue are designated for paid parking (look for a nearby ticket machine and display the ticket on your dashboard). White outlines indicate free parking; yellow outlines indicate that residential permits are needed. Traffic police generally turn a blind eye to motorcycles or scooters parked on footpaths.

Hadrian/shutterstock ©

Family Travel

Whether you’re renting a villa in the countryside or staying in a city-centre hotel, there are plenty of activities to keep the whole family entertained. Art and nature offer many opportunities to create memories that will last a lifetime and the many available discounts for kids will allow you to travel without breaking the bank.

Sights

Concession rates apply to children at most cultural sights. EU citizens under the age of 18 can enter national museums, galleries and archaeological sites free of charge. In Florence, the Mus.e (musefirenze.it) association organises entertaining workshops and guided tours for kids in the city’s major museums, including courses on art curation, paintings and art-history tours.

Eating

Restaurants with menus for children are rare, but many will serve half-sized portions upon request. Larger restaurants usually have one high chair available if you ask, while nappy-changing facilities are uncommon.

Facilities

Many rural agriturismi (farm stays) offer self-catering apartments for families. Cots are not usually found in rooms by default – call in advance to check if the accommodation can provide one.

Each city has at least one pharmacy that is open at night and over weekends. Ask for a farmacia di turno if you need one outside normal business hours.

Getting Around

Children shorter than 1m can travel for free on all trams in Florence. The national rail service offers free travel to children under four as long as they don’t occupy a seat, and a 50% discount on tickets for kids aged four to 12.

KID-FRIENDLY PICKS

Grotta del Vento Enter a mountain’s interior with a speleologist to visit the natural tunnels furnished with stalagmites and stalactites.

Accademia dei Fisiocritici Siena’s natural history museum features an impressive 15m-long whale skeleton.

Museo Leonardiano Learn about Leonardo da Vinci, the man who designed flying machines and wooden weapons.

Il Giardino dei Tarocchi Grandiose, colourful sculptures of fantastical figures adorn this park.

HZERO Museum This Florence museum is dedicated to a miniature railway 40 years in the making.

Sandro Amato/shutterstock ©

LUCCA, CITY OF COMICS

If you happen to visit Tuscany in autumn, consider taking your kids to Lucca for what could be an unforgettable experience. Each year at the end of October the city hosts the Lucca Comics & Games festival (luccacomicsandgames.com), an event that draws over 70,000 people to attend talks, performances and exhibitions dedicated to comics, animation and video games. Cosplayers invade Lucca’s historic centre during the festival, transforming imaginary characters into real-life figures. The event has sold out consistently in recent years thanks to guests of the calibre of Tim Burton – get tickets early if you plan to attend.

Health & Safe Travel

INSURANCE

Insurance is not required when travelling to Italy, but it is recommended. Consider purchasing comprehensive insurance that covers both medical care and flight cancellations. EU citizens can get a free European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which covers emergency medical treatments without charge.

RVillalon/shutterstock ©

Pickpockets

Tuscany is generally safe to travel in, but pickpocketing can occur from time to time in the busiest areas of more heavily touristed cities. Watch out for your belongings near major monuments and always be alert on public transport, especially if spaces are particularly crowded. If you need police assistance, call 112.

Road Accidents

Italian driving habits can make roads a potential safety risk. Speeding is still common and a lack of focus is often the main cause of accidents. Most roads are relatively well maintained, although they can often be narrow and difficult to navigate in the more remote corners of the region.

TAP WATER

Despite the Italian habit of drinking bottled water with meals, tap water is perfectly safe to drink.

SWIM SAFELY

Green flag Safe to swim

Yellow flag Potential hazards in the water

Yellow and red flag Lifesaving service not in operation

Red flag Too dangerous to swim

Ice & Snow

If you’re planning a road trip in winter, be aware that from 15 October to 15 April it is required by law to carry tyre chains with you or to fit winter tyres, as icy roads and the occasional snowfall can make driving dangerous.

EXTREME HEAT

The past decade or so has seen a consistent rise in summer temperatures across Tuscany. A significant growth in the number of days with temperatures above 30°C has been registered year after year, increasing the risk of forest fires in July and August. In 2022 fires occurred in the provinces of Florence, Grosseto, Lucca and Pisa, causing millions of euros’ worth of damage.

Food, Drink & Nightlife

When to Eat

Colazione (7–10am) Italian breakfast is typically small – a coffee and a sweet pastry.

Pranzo (12.30–2pm) Lunch can vary from a casual plate of pasta to a long, multi-course meal.

Aperitivo (6–8pm) A slightly bitter cocktail or a glass of wine paired with finger food before dinner.

Cena (8–10pm) Dinner usually features more elaborate dishes and at least two courses.

Where to Eat & Drink

Trattoria A traditional local restaurant, often serving daily specials.

Osteria Often a synonym for trattoria, used at times to describe more upscale or wine-focused eateries.

Pizzeria A restaurant specialising in pizza.

Panineria A restaurant or hole-in-the-wall shop serving sandwiches.

Gelateria Gelato shop

Alimentari A store selling cold cuts, cheeses, local delicacies and, at times, panini and take-home meals.

Forno Bakery

Pasticceria A bakery focusing on sweet treats and cakes.

Enoteca Wine bar

Creatus/shutterstock ©

MENU DECODER

Coperto Cover charge, usually between €1 and €2 per person.

Piatto del giorno Dish of the day.

Antipasto Appetiser.

Bruschetta A common type of appetiser – toasted bread with fresh tomatoes or other toppings.

Primo First course; typically a plate of pasta, rice or soup.

Secondo Second course; usually either meat- or fish-based.

Bistecca Steak.

Contorno A side dish – salad, spinach, potatoes or beans – to go with your secondo.

Dolce Dessert; can be a slice of cake, tiramisu, gelato etc.

Acqua minerale Mineral water; either frizzante (sparkling) or naturale (still).

Vino bianco White wine.

Vino rosso Red wine.

DOC or DOCG A label attached to wines with ‘designation of controlled origin’.

Birra alla spina Tap beer.

Amaro Literally meaning ‘bitter’; a digestive, herbal liqueur.

Menù di degustazione Tasting menu.

How to… Pay the Bill

There are no strict rules when it comes to splitting the bill, but if you’re eating out with a group there are a few things to keep in mind to avoid awkward situations.

To pay the bill, you’ll have to ask for it. Staying at the table after you’ve finished eating is part of the dining experience and Italians continue their conversation long after their last drinks. Servers won’t bring the bill unless it’s closing time.

On special occasions someone might decide to pay for everyone in a show of gratitude, but otherwise the most common way of paying is alla romana. The ‘Roman way’ consists of splitting the bill equally among all diners.

Not all restaurants are prepared to have some people paying by card and others by cash – it’s not unusual to see restaurant managers frowning upon complicated splitting operations. Figure it out among yourselves or ask nicely.

HOW MUCH FOR A...

Espresso
€1.20

Margherita pizza
€7–9

Craft beer
€6–7

Glass of wine
€4–6

Breakfast pastry
€1.30

Bowl of pasta
€9

Gelato
€2.50

Trattoria lunch
€15–20

How to… Have Coffee

Coffee is a sacred ritual in Italy and breaking rules such as having a cappuccino after 11am is often seen as blasphemous. After breakfast time, milk is typically abandoned in favour of single shots of espresso, drunk at regular intervals throughout the day at bar counters.

Here’s an Italian coffee vocab list for navigating local cafes:

Espresso A standard, single shot of coffee extracted through a high-pressure espresso machine – it can simply be referred to as un caffè normale.

Macchiato An espresso with a touch of foamed milk on top.

Ristretto A short espresso.

Caffè lungo A long espresso.

Caffè corretto An espresso ‘corrected’ with a dash of liquor of your choice.

Decaffeinato A decaf coffee, often called deca.

Cappuccino One-third espresso, one-third milk, one-third foam.

Caffè latte If you ask for a latte in Italy you’ll simply get a glass of milk. Ask for a caffè latte (coffee and milk) instead.

Caffè affogato A shot of espresso poured over a scoop of gelato.

Caffè al vetro An espresso ordered by those who believe that drinking coffee from a glass cup rather than porcelain tastes better.

Caffè leccese An increasingly popular summer drink of coffee, sweet almond milk and ice.

Barbara Francis/shutterstock ©

Fast Break

An Italian coffee session only lasts a few minutes – an unceremonious pause to refuel between daily activities, brief enough to make takeaway cups pointless. If you do choose to sit down and receive table service, be prepared to pay extra.

GOING OUT

The starting point of any Tuscan night out is the aperitivo, a pre-dinner drink to get in the mood for a long restaurant session. Having aperitivi does not mean ‘pre-gaming’ (getting drunk before going out) – instead the ritual usually involves a low-alcohol cocktail or a glass of wine meant to get your appetite going, and they’re often served with finger food. Your initial catch-up location can vary widely depending on your tastes and desires – you could meet up in a local bar or enoteca for a glass of wine or head to a fancy cocktail bar for a more elaborate Aperol- or Campari-based concoction.

If weather allows, aperitivi can be followed by dinner on a restaurant’s open-air terrace. This part of the evening is not to be taken lightly – unless you are going for pizza, be prepared to sit around the table for hours, enjoying a minimum of three courses. Antipasto, primo, secondo and dolce are all parts of the deal, with the option to share with friends if tackling the whole thing alone seems too ambitious.

Tuscan cities are not wild when it comes to nightlife, as historic centres have to compromise between residents’ need for sleep and people’s desire to have fun. Larger clubs are usually located far from residential areas, while inner cities are dotted with smaller bars, pubs and cocktail bars closing between 1am and 3am. Drinking on the street is allowed – you can always pick up a bottle of wine and sit in a piazza to continue until late.

Responsible Travel

Climate Change & Travel

It’s impossible to ignore the impact we have when travelling; Lonely Planet urges all travellers to engage with their travel carbon footprint, which will mainly come from air travel. While there often isn’t an alternative, travellers can look to minimise the number of flights they take, opt for newer aircrafts and use cleaner ground transport, such as trains. One proposed solution – purchasing carbon offsets – unfortunately does not cancel out the impact of individual flights. While most destinations will depend on air travel for the foreseeable future, for now, pursuing ground-based travel where possible is the best course of action.

photocrew1/shutterstock ©

The UN Carbon Offset Calculator shows how flying impacts a household’s emissions.

The ICAO’s carbon emissions calculator allows visitors to analyse the CO2 generated by point-to-point journeys.

Visit Dying Towns

Tuscany’s tourism is heavily concentrated in the most famous cities, while many rural towns suffer from depopulation due to the lack of opportunities for younger people. Exit the tourist trails and get to know the lesser-visited areas.

Skip the Fiorentina Steak

Greenhouse gases released by beef production are larger in quantity than for any other food. To reduce your carbon footprint consider avoiding the red-meat-heavy dishes common in Tuscan cuisine.

Alexandros Michailidis/shutterstock ©

In 2024 the Bandiera Blu environmental award was given to 38 Tuscan beaches; see the full list at bandierablu.org.

The soon-to-be-completed Ciclovia dell’Arno cycling path will connect Stia to Pisa via two wheels.

SLOW FOOD

Look out for the Slow Food sticker on restaurant windows. The Slow Food (slowfood.it) association awards venues that work to preserve genuine traditions, local ecosystems and the region’s biodiversity.

UNCOMFORTABLE TOURS

Learn about the often-obscured role of minorities in the production of Florentine cultural heritage by joining one of the Uncomfortable Tours, covering the history of Renaissance colonialism, organised by Stazione Utopia (stazioneutopia.com).

Legambiente

Legambiente’s Tuscan section holds events throughout the year where you can gain awareness about issues related to the preservation of local ecosystems. Check out the program at legambientetoscana.it.

Train Travel

Tuscany has a well-developed rail network, which can be used to reach over 180 towns in the region. Doing so drastically cuts emissions compared to driving a vehicle. Book via trenitalia.com.

giuseppe aversa/shutterstock ©

Long Walks

Set out for a low-impact journey by exploring Tuscany on foot along one of its many long-distance trails, such as the Via Francigena, the Via degli Dei or the Via del Volto Santo.

Pixel-Shot/shutterstock ©

Each year in April, Tuscany’s largest crafts fair, the Mostra Internazionale dell’Artigianato, offers the chance to discover the work of local artisans.

The WWF manages 17 natural areas in Tuscany. Consider joining the organisation in one of their beach clean-up events or conservation workshops, planned throughout the year. Find out more at wwf.it.

23rd

The Global Sustainability Index ranks Italy in 23rd place worldwide. The country has seen a sharp increase in renewable energy investments in the past decade, but it is far behind in meeting the targets of the Paris Agreement.

RESOURCES

legambientetoscana.it The Tuscan section of Italy’s largest environmental protection organisation.

regione.toscana.it/ambiente The region’s official environmental announcement page.

wwf.it WWF’s Italian website, offering volunteering opportunities.

LGBTIQ+ Travellers

Tuscany is relatively open to the LGBTIQ+ community, although the region’s historically progressive character is increasingly concentrated within the Florentine territory, as conservative parties gain traction elsewhere. Homosexuality is widely accepted, but voices echoing the values of the recently elected far-right government, which has been loudly proclaiming a return to the ‘traditional family’, are being heard with more frequency throughout the region.

Queer Festival

Every autumn, Florence hosts its Queer Festival (florencequeerfestival.it), a major celebration of the artistic achievements of the LGBTIQ+ community organised by the IREOS association. The main hub of the event is the Cinema La Compagnia in Via Cavour, which runs daily screenings produced by emerging and established international directors, usually followed by live talks. Photography exhibitions and live performances are held in other venues around the city. Find more information and the full program on the festival’s official website.

Alexander Spatari/Getty Images ©

CLUBBING

The coastal towns of Torre del Lago and Viareggio have a lively clubbing scene during the summer months. Torre del Lago’s legendary Mamamia (mamamia.tv) club is the best-known LGBTIQ+ party destination on the Tuscan coast, established in 1997 and hosting regular events with international DJs and performers that run into the early hours. The club is active year-round, although most of the events happen in the summer months.

QUEER TUSCANY TOURS

Queer Tuscany Tours (queertuscanytours.com) offers entertaining guided explorations to learn about Florence’s history, including storytelling walks recounting tales of lesser-known events that occurred in the court of Medici and of the foreign LGBTIQ+ communities that reached Florence as part of the 19th-century Grand Tour.

Bars

Florence has the highest number of LGBTIQ+-friendly bars in the region, with Piccolo Cafè in Santa Croce being the city’s historic gathering spot for the community, followed by Queer in Borgo Allegri. Viper Theatre and Tenax, two large music venues outside the city centre, host queer nights on a regular basis.

ASSOCIATIONS & SAFE NETWORKS

There are three main associations operating in Tuscany. IREOS (ireos.org), a voluntary association working in Florence to promote queer culture, health and rights; Azione Gay e Lesbica (azionegayelesbica.it), a large organisation working to defend the rights of the LGBTIQ+ community; and ArciGay Firenze (arcigayfirenze.it), the Florentine section of the national organisation for the LGBTIQ+ community.

DDL Zan

In 2018, Democratic Party member Alessandro Zan called for the introduction of an anti-homophobia law to criminalise discrimination based on sexual orientation and gender identity. The disegno di legge (the draft law, or ‘DDL’) was initially accepted by parliament, but in 2021 was rejected as right-wing parties deemed it wasn’t necessary.

Accessible Travel

Tuscany still has many accessibility challenges, but tourism infrastructure is developing and an increasing number of services have become available to people with disabilities in recent years.

Cobblestone Streets

Ancient city centres often still feature centuries-old cobblestone streets that are uneven at best. Parts of these historic areas can be difficult to navigate in a wheelchair, and roads open to vehicular traffic sidewalks often have narrow or nonexistent footpaths.

Airport

The Florence and Pisa airports both have staff on the ground that are ready to assist passengers with reduced mobility navigate the gates free of charge. Special assistance, including wheelchair transportation, should be requested at least 48 hours before departure via toscana-aeroporti.com.

Accommodation

Smaller B&Bs housed inside historic buildings are unlikely to provide a comprehensive service for people with disabilities or accessibility needs. Larger hotels are your best bet when it comes to accessibility.

Museum Access

Most major Florentine museums – including the Uffizi, Museo del Bargello and Galleria dell’Accademia – are accessible for people in wheelchairs. All Florentine civic museums provide free priority access for people with restricted mobility.

Public Transport

Florence trams are accessible for people in wheelchairs. Frecce and Intercity trains have a carriage equipped for transporting two people in wheelchairs plus two accompanying people. Most regional trains are also accessible, though not the older trains.

RESOURCES

Toscana Accessibile (toscana-accessibile.it; Italian only) The region’s official web portal for providing assistance and useful information for people with disabilities, designed for both residents and visitors.

Siena Accessibile (accessibile.siena.it). Available in the Google Play and Apple Stores, this app has useful information about accessibility for visitors to Siena.

SALA BLU

Florence’s Santa Maria Novella train station features a Sala Blu (Blue Lounge) near platform 5 where people with reduced mobility can request a wheelchair to move around the station, assistance with reaching trains and free luggage transportation.

Florence’s Uffizi includes tactile models for the visually impaired, and Braille captions are in the process of being added under the artworks. Visit uffizi .it/ en/ special -visits/ uffizi -by -touch to learn about special tours. The city’s Opera del Duomo (duomo.firenze.it/en/projects-for-accessibility) also organises tours and activities for people with disabilities.

ZTL AREAS

Travellers with disabilities can access Florence’s Limited Traffic Zone (ZTL) with their vehicles by emailing a request for a special permit to upd@serviziallastrada.it.

Accommodation

Castle Stays

The era of communes and city-states that saw the rise of powerful ruling families has left hundreds of castles and fortifications dotting the Tuscan countryside. Many of these medieval and Renaissance structures have been converted into luxurious hotels where you can spend the night surrounded by nature while immersed in history. The provinces of Siena and Arezzo offer many such spectacular options.

Agriturismi

No other form of accommodation is as quintessentially Tuscan as the agriturismo (farm stay). The region’s many picturesque agriturismi come in all shapes and forms, from simple B&Bs to elegant properties that elevate the rural tradition, and typically offer a holiday experience built around the celebration of local produce and homemade meals.

Rifugi

Hikers can make use of the wide network of rifugi (mountain huts) available when trekking across Tuscany’s ridges and passes over multiple consecutive days. The region’s rifugi function mostly between April and October and are either privately run or managed by the Italian Alpine Club (CAI). Especially for summer weekends, rooms in altitude lodges should be booked in advance by phone.

Art Hotels

Many small, independent hotels in the larger cities reflect the artistic atmosphere of their surrounding urban environment. Personality and attention to detail are thoughtfully combined with interior design and artful touches that embellish heritage buildings and gallery-like spaces. When it comes to unique boutique hotels, Florence, Pisa and Siena offer the largest number of sophisticated alternatives to chain hotels.

HOW MUCH FOR A NIGHT IN A…

Hostel dorm
€35

Farm stay
€80

Boutique hotel
€90–120

Zakir61/shutterstock ©

Camping

Wild camping is technically illegal in Italy, but numerous equipped campgrounds are found along the coast, where you can either pitch your tent or park your van steps away from the beach. In the mountains, wild camping is usually tolerated as long as fires are not set up and you leave early in the morning without leaving a trace.

HIGH SEASON & TOURIST TAXES

The high tourism season in Tuscany runs from April to October, with the peak in the middle of summer between July and August. During this time of year the traffic of domestic and international holidaymakers drives prices up significantly – it’s worth booking well in advance to find the best deals, especially along the coast. You should also be aware that most cities in Tuscany charge a tourist tax on top of accommodation prices – this usually ranges between €1 to €5 per night depending on the hotel’s rating.

Nuts & Bolts

OPENING HOURS

Opening hours vary throughout the year and can differ between larger city centres and smaller towns.

Banks 8.30am–1pm and 2–4pm Monday–Friday

Bars 7pm–2am

Cafes 7am–9pm

Clubs 10pm–4am

Restaurants noon–3pm and 7–11pm

Shopping malls 10am–10pm

Shops 9.30am–8pm (often closed 1–3pm in smaller towns)

Dress Code

Cover shoulders, torso and thighs when visiting churches and dress smartly when eating out – Italians don’t appreciate beach attire in restaurants.

Smoking

Smoking is banned in enclosed public spaces, which includes restaurants, bars, shops and public transport.

Internet Access

Places such as airports, stations and most cafes in cities offer free wi-fi.

Weights & Measures

Italy uses the metric system. Decimal places are indicated by commas, and thousands by points.

GOOD TO KNOW

Time zone GMT+2

Country code 39

Emergency number 112

Population 3.7 million

Electricity

230V/50Hz

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS

There are 12 public holidays in Italy. Some businesses and non-essential services may be closed.

New Year’s Day 1 January

Epiphany 6 January

Easter Sunday March/April

Easter Monday March/April

Liberation Day 25 April

Labour Day 1 May

Republic Day 2 June

Ferragosto 15 August

All Saints’ Day 1 November

Feast of the Immaculate Conception 8 December

Christmas Day 25 December

St Stephen’s Day 26 December

Language

Italian comes from the Romance language family and is closely related to Spanish and French.

Basics

Hello. Buongiorno. bwon·jor·no

Goodbye. Arrivederci. a·ree·ve·der·chee

Yes. Si. see

No. No. no

Please. Per favore. per fa·vo·re

Thank you. Grazie. gra·tsye

Excuse me. Mi scusi. (pol)/ Scusami. (inf) mee skoo·zee/ skoo·za·mee

Sorry. Mi dispiace. mee dees·pya·che

What’s your name? Come si chiama? ko·me see kya·ma

My name is … Mi chiamo... mee kya·mo...

Do you speak English? Parla/parli inglese? (pol/inf). par·la/par·lee een·gle·ze

I don’t understand. Non capisco. non ka·pee·sko

Signs

Aperto/a Open

Chiuso/a Closed

Informazione Information

Bagno WC/Toilets

Prohibito/a Prohibited

Uscita Exit

Emergencies

Help! Aiuto! a·yoo·to

Leave me alone! Lasciami in pace! la·sha·mee een pa·che

I’m ill. Mi sento male. mee sen·to ma·le

Call ...! Chiami ...! kya·mee

a doctor un medico oon me·dee·ko

the police la polizia la po·lee·tsee·a

Time

What time is it? Che ora è? ke o·ra e

It’s 1 o’clock. È l’una. e loo·na

Half past (1). (L’una) e mezza. (loo·na) e me·dza

morning mattina ma·tee·na

afternoon pomeriggio po·me·ree·jo

evening sera se·ra

yesterday ieri ye·ree

today oggi o·jee

tomorrow domani do·ma·nee

Directions

Where’s (the station)?

Dov’è (la stazione)? do·ve la sta·tsyo·ne

What’s the address?

Qual’è l’indirizzo? kwa·le leen·dee·ree·tso

Could you please write it down?

Può scriverlo, per favore? pwo skree·ver·lo per fa·vo·re

Can you show me (on the map)? Può mostrarmi (sulla pianta)? pwo mos·trar·mee (soo·la pyan·ta)

Eating & Drinking

What would you recommend? Cosa mi consiglia? ko·za mee kon·see·lya

Cheers! Salute! sa·loo·te

That was delicious! Era squisito! e·ra skwee·zee·to

I’m a vegetarian Sono vegetariano/a (m/f) veje·ta·rya·no/na

NUMBERS

1

uno oo·no

2

due doo·e

3

tre tre

4

quattro kwa·tro

5

cinque cheen·kwe

6

sei say

7

sette se·te

8

otto o·to

9

nove no·ve

10

dieci dye·chee

DONATIONS TO ENGLISH

Numerous – you may recognise ciao, bella, pasta, mafia, maestro

DISTINCTIVE SOUNDS

The only sound that differs from English is the ‘r’, which is rolled and stronger than in English.

10 Phrases to Sound Like a Local

What’s up? Come va? ko·me va

All OK? Tutt’a posto? too·ta pos·to

It’s OK Va bene va be·ne

Great! Fantastico! fan·tas·tee·ko

That’s true È vero e ve·ro

Sure Certo cher·to

No way! Ma va’! ma va

You’re kidding! Scherzi! sker·tsee

If only! Magari! ma·ga·ree

Really? Davvero? da·ve·ro

False Friends

Some Italian words look like English words but have a different meaning, eg camera is ‘bedroom’, not ‘camera’, which is macchina fotografica.

Must-Know Grammar

Italian has a formal and informal word for ‘you’ (lei and tu respectively).

Verbs have different endings for each person, like the English ‘I do’ vs ‘he/she does’.

Italian in Italy

Italians are very proud of their language’s rich history and influence – rightly so, since it claims the closest relationship with the language spoken by the Romans. For example, Italy is one of the few countries in Europe where dubbing of foreign-language movies is preferred to subtitling.

WHO SPEAKS ITALIAN?

Thanks to the widespread migration and the enormous popularity of Italian culture and cuisine – from ‘spaghetti western’ to opera – Italian is often a language of choice in schools all over the world, despite that fact that Italy never established itself as a colonial power.

STORYBOOK

Our writers delve deep into different aspects of Florentine and Tuscan life

A History of Florence & Tuscany in 15 Places

Trace a path from prehistory to modernity across the Middle Ages and the Renaissance.

Angelo Zinna

Meet the Tuscans

Deciphering Tuscans is a risky business, but pride, humour and a free spirit are key elements.

Angelo Zinna

Chinese Prato: Italian Fashion’s Backstage

The story of Prato’s Chinese community is woven into Tuscany’s textile business.

Angelo Zinna

Florence’s Digital Renaissance

Tuscany’s artistic heritage is going digital – though not without some concerns.

Angelo Zinna

Forgotten Women in the Renaissance

Statues of influential women are rare in Florence’s public spaces, highlighting hidden stories of age-old discrimination.

Angelo Zinna

Tuscany: Still Resisting?

The rise of the far-right has brought political conflict to Tuscany’s traditionally left-leaning Red Belt.

Mary Gray

Abbazia di Sant’Antimo | LianeM/shutterstock ©

A HISTORY OF FLORENCE & TUSCANY IN
15 places

Many fascinating remnants of Tuscany’s tumultuous past still dot the region today, offering the chance to trace a path from prehistory to modernity across the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. While much time has passed since feudal lords controlled their territories from countryside castles, it’s not too late to connect the old with the new.

ETRUSCAN CITIES DATING as far back as the 8th century BCE are among the earliest permanent settlements whose traces are still visible today in Tuscany. Since that time, battles, revolts, conspiracies and plague epidemics have followed one after another, defining the pivotal moments of the region’s history – the journey to becoming one of the world’s most important art hubs was far from smooth sailing for long-fragmented Tuscany.

It’s true – the high phase of the Renaissance was a time of great artistic and philosophical achievement, with artists such as Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo creating masterpieces that continue to be admired centuries later. But the invaluable output of the region’s golden age often overshadows what came before and after. From the clashing city-states of the late Middle Ages to the rebellious leftist movements of the post-unification period, Tuscany’s history has been marked by way more turbulence than its current reputation as a relaxed, romantic destination would suggest.

1. Museo delle Statue Stele Lunigianesi

ART FROM THE BRONZE AND IRON AGES

Among the evidence left behind by the prehistoric and protohistoric civilisations who lived in Tuscany, Lunigiana’s stele statues are among the most impressive. Housed inside Pontremoli’s Castello del Piagnaro are dozens of stone slabs believed to have been carved into anthropomorphic figures by people who inhabited the valleys of northern Tuscany and Liguria in the Bronze and Iron Ages. The first statues were re-discovered by accident in the late 19th century and continued to pop up in the region until the 1960s – their function remains a mystery to historians, however.

For more on Pontremoli, see here

2. Parco Archeologico Città del Tufo

ETRUSCAN CITIES

The Etruscans were among the first peoples to build and settle in cities and many of Tuscany’s most important centres have Etruscan roots. As one of the most powerful and influential cultures of ancient times, the Etruscans were known for their skilled artisanship, grand architecture and military might. Their legacy remains visible in the form of ruins and artefacts in many archaeological sites scattered around the region, including the Città del Tufo, where the Etruscans dug their vie cave – the unique, fascinating passageways carved into the tuff-rock hills extending from Sovana’s necropolis, a city built for the dead.

For more on Città del Tufo, see here

3. Piazza dell’Anfiteatro

THE ROMAN FOUNDATION OF TUSCAN CITIES

By the 4th century BCE, the Etruscan civilisation started declining, and the Romans increasingly began to assert their control over the region they called Etruria. In the 3rd century BCE, the Romans subdued the Etruscans and established colonies all over Tuscany. Major roads were built, such as the Via Aurelia, the Via Cassia and the Via Clodia, and cities were enriched with public infrastructure. Much later, in the 19th century, architect Lorenzo Nottolini built Lucca’s Piazza dell’Anfiteatro on the foundations of a Roman amphitheatre built in the 2nd century CE – the iconic square’s elliptical shape draws a clear connection to its roots.

For more on Lucca, see here

4. Abbazia di Sant’Antimo

CHARLEMAGNE AND THE MARCH OF TUSCANY

The fall of the Western Roman Empire in the 5th century led to a period of instability and turmoil in Tuscany. The Lombards, a Germanic people, invaded and conquered much of the region but were eventually driven out by Charlemagne, King of the Franks, who annexed Tuscany in 774. Charlemagne, elected emperor of the Holy Roman Empire by Pope Leo III in 800, is said to have founded the Abbazia di Sant’Antimo near Montalcino in 781 as he was travelling back from Rome along the Via Francigena. Sixteen years later he turned Tuscany into a March – a geopolitical entity ruled by a marquis.

For more on Abbazia di Sant’Antimo, see here

5. Piazza dei Miracoli

RISE OF THE MARITIME POWER

In the mid-11th century Pisa had amassed huge amounts of wealth by raiding rich Muslim settlements in southern Italy, Spain and northern Africa. With these treasures plundered abroad it funded the construction of its majestic cathedral in Piazza dei Miracoli and the many other buildings still standing in the city. The newly established maritime republic rapidly expanded to control much of the western Mediterranean and the territory surrounding Pisa, while gaining increasing political autonomy from the Empire. The communal period had begun.

For more on Piazza dei Miracoli, see here

6. Palazzo Pubblico

SIENA’S GOLDEN AGE

By the end of the March of Tuscany in the 12th century, many landowners had embraced the feudal system and established countryside estates through which they could control enslaved peasants. As counts lost their grip on urban centres and aristocrats moved to their rural castles, the cities reorganised. The lack of authority allowed for the creation of new institutions and forms of government to suit the emerging class of bourgeois merchants, bankers and entrepreneurs. In 1287 Siena instituted the innovative Government of the Nine – a system where nine rotating members of the middle class ruled over the Republic from the newly built Palazzo Pubblico with the ‘common good’ in mind.

For more on Siena’s Palazzo Pubblico, see here

Palazzo Pubblico, Siena | IMAGODENS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

7. Poppi

THE BATTLE BETWEEN GUELPHS AND GHIBELLINES

The 13th century saw Florence flourish thanks to its wool industry and its strategic position as a trade centre, but the communal period wasn’t all fun and public games. With economic growth came desires for expansion. The noble families running Tuscan politics split into two factions – the Guelphs supported by the Pope, and the Ghibellines supported by the Holy Roman Emperor. On 11 June 1289 Arezzo’s Ghibelline and Florence’s Guelph armies confronted each other in the valley of Campaldino, near Poppi. A young knight known as Dante Alighieri fought with the Guelphs, who ultimately won the battle, opening the way for Guelph (and thus Florentine) domination over Tuscany.

For more on Poppi, see here

8. Palazzo Medici Riccardi

THE RISE OF THE MEDICI

In 1348 a deadly plague swept through much of Europe, Tuscany included. In the aftermath of the ‘Black Death’, one family became powerful due to its ability to manoeuvre local politics behind the scenes – the Medici. Cosimo de’ Medici, later known as Cosimo the Elder, inherited vast wealth from the banking enterprise launched by his father Giovanni di Bicci and established his influence in Florence – without ever taking up public office – by financing the institutional careers of trusted men. In 1434 Cosimo commissioned architect Michelozzo with the construction of his palace in San Lorenzo, Florence, from where he would operate as the de facto city ruler.

For more on Palazzo Medici Riccardi, see here

9. Salone dei Cinquecento

THE RENAISSANCE AND THE GRAND DUCHY

With the exception of two brief interruptions, the Medici would continue to rule over Florence, and later Tuscany, for three consecutive centuries. The family’s power was consolidated by Lorenzo the Magnificent, whose humanist education led to him becoming the patron of many artists who would become icons of the Renaissance. Among them were Michelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci, who eventually met in 1504 to embellish Palazzo Vecchio’s Salone dei Cinquecento with two monumental frescoes. Decades later the incomplete project was taken up by Giorgio Vasari, who adorned the room with marvellous ceiling and wall frescoes to suit the taste of Cosimo I de’ Medici, Tuscany’s first Grand Duke.

For more on Palazzo Vecchio, see here

10. Riserva Naturale della Diaccia Botrona

REFORMS UNDER THE HABSBURG-LORRAINE

In 1737 the last Medici ruler of Tuscany, Gian Gastone de’ Medici, died without an heir, and the Medici dynasty came to an end. The Grand Duchy of Tuscany was then annexed by the Austrian Empire, run by the House of Habsburg-Lorraine. The new Grand Duke, Francis Stephen of Lorraine, left political matters in the hands of a delegate, visiting Florence only once in his lifetime. Under Francis Stephen’s successor, Leopold II, things changed – he introduced many innovative reforms, including the abolition of the death penalty and the reclamation of Maremma’s swamplands, which allowed coastal territories such as the Riserva Naturale della Diaccia Botrona to become malaria-free and agriculturally viable.

For more on the Riserva Naturale della Diaccia Botrona, see here

11. Piazzale Michelangelo

FLORENCE, CAPITAL OF UNIFIED ITALY

A new era began in 1861 with the unification of Italy. Florence was declared the capital of the newly born kingdom in 1865 and local authorities commissioned architect Giuseppe Poggi with a redevelopment project that would propel the city into modernity. Inspired by other European capitals, Poggi tore down medieval walls to free up space for the viali (a network of wide avenues), redesigned the water-supply system and built monumental squares to restore Florence’s greatness. Better still was Piazzale Michelangelo, the grand terrace overlooking the city’s red rooftops, offering what is still one of the best views of Florence and its Duomo.

For more on Piazzale Michelangelo, see here

12. Carrara’s Marble Quarries

THE LUNIGIANA REVOLT

The period that followed Italy’s unification overlapped with the formation of the International Workers’ Association, who promoted the liberation of workers from class oppression. The radical ideas circulating in Europe at the time resonated with those employed in the dangerous task of extracting huge blocks of marble from the mountains of northeastern Tuscany. Deaths and injuries were frequent, but the expansion of the marble industry, mostly run by wealthy local families, seemed unstoppable. Carrara quarrymen called a mass strike on 13 January 1894, demanding better working conditions. However, the Moti della Lunigiana (Lunigiana revolt), Italy’s first mass anarchist uprising, saw the Crispi government arrest more than 450 people.

For more on Carrara, see here

13. Livorno

RED TUSCANY

Despite the crackdown, class consciousness continued to grow in Tuscany. The Italian Communist Party was founded in Livorno’s Teatro San Marco on 21 January 1921, in an effort to overthrow the Italian monarchy and establish a communist state in Italy. The party would grow to become Italy’s second-most popular as well as one of the most influential communist organisations in the Western world. Its initial success, however, was short-lived. As Mussolini rose to power in 1922, the government sought to quell the party, and it was overshadowed by the rise of fascism in the country.

For more on Livorno, see here

14. Stazione di Firenze Santa Maria Novella

FASCISM AND JEWISH DEPORTATIONS

Benito Mussolini’s dictatorship was characterised by repressive policies that reached their peak in the 1930s. The government limited freedom of speech and assembly, and cracked down on dissent. Political opponents were imprisoned or exiled, and trade unions were banned. The regime also introduced a series of racial laws, which restricted the rights of Jews and other minorities. On 9 November 1943 a convoy of 300 Jewish deportees was sent from Florence’s Santa Maria Novella station to Auschwitz. A memorial stands today at platform 16.

For more on Santa Maria Novella, see here

Stazione di Firenze Santa Maria Novella | MyVideoimage/shutterstock ©

15. Museo Piaggio

THE ECONOMIC BOOM

After the liberation from fascism in 1945 – now celebrated on 25 April in Italy – Tuscany was in a shambles. A recovery process that would turn much of Italy into an industrial power began in the 1950s, a time when Italians experienced major lifestyle changes as a result of the economic boom. People moved to the cities and private motorised vehicles became increasingly widespread. The Piaggio factory, located in Pontedera (also now home to the Museo Piaggio), had produced military aircraft up until the end of WWII, but then shifted gears and began production of the iconic Vespa scooter – millions have been sold around the world since its introduction.

For more on Museo Piaggio, see here

MEET THE
TUSCANS

Irony is the local language and deciphering Tuscans is a risky business. ANGELO ZINNA introduces his people.

FEDERICO NERI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

TUSCANS DON’T REALLY exist. At least, I’ve never met any. Throughout history, many authors have attempted to place all Tuscans within a unifying frame. But while some common traits can be pointed at – with a tendency towards blasphemy being up there among the primary identifying characteristics – just try telling someone from Livorno that they are the same as their neighbours from Pisa, or someone from Siena that there is little difference between them and a Florentine and you’ll be quick to regret your outspokenness.

Ancient rivalries persist to this day in the form of campanilismo – a strong sense of pride for one’s place of birth, often expressed by inflicting neighbours with heavy doses of irony and sarcasm. While actual quarrelling is a thing of the past, harsh humour is still a weapon used without restrain to belittle outsiders in both the private sphere and in public media outlets, such as the Livornese satirical newspaper Il Vernacoliere, which has been throwing equally savage punches at the church, Pisans and politicians for the past four decades.

SARA CORSO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The far-from-gracious jokes still commonly heard around Tuscany today should not be taken too seriously though. It’s the social glue employed by many to let go of their daily worries – as shown in Mario Monicelli’s 1975 cult movie Amici Miei, where a group of Florentine friends escape their routine by pranking whoever crosses their path. And humour of dubious taste has long functioned as a way to defuse external attempts to define the local character. By making fun of others and of themselves, Tuscans keep alive the long tradition of dismissing whoever tries to place them in a box. Anti-authoritarian sentiments have long been rooted in Tuscany’s consciousness – it is here, after all, that both the Italian Communist Party and the Italian Anarchist Federation formed in the 20th century – and a desire for self-determination often translates into levelling hierarchies through a type of comedy no one is free from.

Things are gradually changing, however. As younger generations travel more – about 200,000 Tuscans live abroad today, a number that has more than doubled over the past two decades – and larger cities grow increasingly cosmopolitan thanks to international universities and increased tourism, internal contrasts appear less and less stark, while the limits of acceptable speech become more and more narrow. The antagonisms rooted in the era of city-states disappear under the lens of globalisation, but the attachment to the land remains strong. Pride reaches its peak at the dinner table, the only sacred place, where breaking the rules can be considered sacrilegious. And if you don’t get what all the fuss is about, well, the joke is on you.

FEDERICO NERI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Who & How Many

Tuscany has a population of approximately 3.7 million. About 11.5% of people living in the region are of foreign origin, with the largest groups being those of Romanian, Chinese and Albanian descent.

FEDERICO NERI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

I’M TUSCAN, I GUESS?

Despite having spent the first 20 years of my life in a small town between Florence and Pisa, I’ve never considered myself fully Tuscan. My Sicilian father and my Finnish mother moved to Tuscany long before I was born, but many local traits – the Tuscan dialect and idioms, the food, the football fandom – hardly entered home.

Perhaps it was this lack of roots that made it so easy to leave. At 20, I travelled to Australia, thinking I would spend six months Down Under learning how to speak English while doing some odd jobs. That trip turned into a 12-year-long journey across three continents – only after living in New Zealand, crossing Asia overland, moving to the UK and then to the Netherlands, did I end up settling in Florence.

Like the many others who have left and then returned, it’s easier for me to say where I come from than explain who I am or – worse – where I am going.

CHINESE PRATO: ITALIAN FASHION’S BACKSTAGE

The Chinese community found success in Tuscany’s textile business, though there’s a dark side to the industry and immigrants have faced an increasing political backlash. By Angelo Zinna

Textile samples, Prato | GIACOMO MORINI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

WHILE WALKING THROUGH the charming streets of Prato’s historic heart, you wouldn’t guess that this is one of Tuscany’s major industrial centres. Locked within the medieval walls of the region’s second-most populated city are all the central Italy sights you might expect – a 12th-century Romanesque Duomo, a fort, an art-filled museum housing works by Renaissance greats and as many cafes as you’ll need to stick to your espresso schedule. Emerge from the walls, however, and the scenery changes. As you leave the urban core from Porta Pistoiese, you’ll soon notice the vast number of shops, restaurants, garment mills and warehouses marked with Chinese-language signs. It is here, in the neighbourhood surrounding Via Pistoiese, that one of Europe’s largest Chinese communities has formed the new nucleus of Prato’s textile industry – a pillar of ‘Made in Italy’ fashion

Like nearby Florence, Prato developed into an important commercial centre in the Middle Ages, thanks to its large-scale wool production made possible by its proximity to the Bisanzio river, a tributary of the Arno, where an extensive network of mills was built by the 13th century. Processing fabrics remained central to the local economy throughout the centuries, and as the Industrial Revolution brought new technologies to the table, Prato rapidly turned into an international textile powerhouse.

From Zhejiang to Prato

The first wave of Chinese immigrants arrived in Prato between the late 1980s and the early 1990s, setting up fast-fashion operations in the city’s industrial area. Despite its solid output, Prato’s existing industrial community was mostly made up of small- and medium-sized firms, which often subcontracted work to southern Italian factories. The new entrepreneurs managed to carve a space in the market for their businesses, taking on subcontracting jobs at competitive prices (even if off the books), charging as little as half of what Italian workshops did, with much faster processing times.

Exact demographics were as fuzzy then as they are now. The great majority of these early immigrants arrived from the Zhejiang province of China. Officially, residents of Chinese origin have grown from nearly 2000 in 1994 to over 28,000 in 2022, but undocumented immigrants means the number could be significantly higher, positioning Prato as the city with the third-largest Chinese population in Europe – after Paris and London – according to some estimates.

While initially the Chinese-run businesses in Prato focused primarily on fast-fashion clothing items (pronto moda in Italian), over time their success and reputation allowed them to enter higher-end markets. Chinese entrepreneurs began buying out local firms and expanding their network of clients, reaching household luxury fashion houses, who could take advantage of cheap immigrant labour to avoid outsourcing production abroad and thus preserving the valuable ‘Made in Italy’ label. Brands such as Armani, Gucci, Valentino, Max Mara and Patrizia Pepe have all reportedly contracted Chinese-run firms in Prato, which now comprise approximately 80% of the local garment industry.

A Better Life or Exploitation?

The expansion of Prato’s Chinese-run textile sector didn’t benefit the whole immigrant community equally, with unskilled labourers often finding themselves working in shady operations in sweatshop-like conditions, while major brands turned a blind eye.

The textile sector isn’t the only industry in Italy where the exploitation of migrants has historically been commonplace. Agriculture has long been known to employ undocumented migrants, who often become victims of the caporalato (gangmaster) system to make ends meet. The problem has intensified with the growing flow of migrants crossing the Mediterranean in recent years. Rather than condemning worker exploitation and offering solutions to regularise the status of illegal migrants, rising far-right parties have consistently framed migrants as a threat – a narrative that has translated into record numbers of votes.

Prato’s state of affairs made the national news on 1 December 2013, when seven people lost their lives in a fire, as they were sleeping in a dormitory inside the factory they worked in. From reconstructions it appeared that beds had been stacked on top of each other in the high-ceilinged plant to maximise working space. Bars had also been fitted to the window frames, making escape difficult.

The incident led to stricter controls by the authorities, but workplace safety was only part of the picture. Just a few years before the fire, one of Italy’s largest trials in recent times began in Florence. Second in terms of the number of people involved only to the famous maxi processo in Palermo (a trial in which 460 people were charged with Mafia-related crimes), the case saw 297 defendants accused of setting up a massive money-laundering scheme with the help of the Bank of China’s Milan branch. The ‘money transfer’ case – as the media called it – was centred on the disappearance of over four billion euros, two-thirds of it originating from Prato, which had been illegally transferred to China between 2007 and 2010.

Due to Italy’s chronically slow court system and prescriptive periods (time limits) set by Italian law, 227 of the defendants were acquitted in 2018 as the charges expired. But in the same year 55 people were arrested, including entrepreneur Zhang Nai Zhong, a Rome resident accused of being the head of a Prato criminal organisation, which was potentially subject to ‘Article 416 bis’ of Italy’s criminal code – the law concerning Mafia-style associations, counterfeiting, gambling, extortion and prostitution.

Difficult Integration

The rapid takeover of the textile industry by Chinese-owned businesses and recurring news stories describing the sector’s underbelly made integration difficult for the majority of Chinese residents, whose livelihoods are often precarious enough without the increasing disdain coming from their Italian neighbours. Along with undocumented labourers (which in 2014 were believed to make up about 40% of the workforce) are regular residents, who are often easy victims of exploitation due to their dependence on employers for the renewal of their permesso di soggiorno (permit to stay). They have also faced growing suspicion from the Italian working and middle classes, who have seen their jobs and businesses undercut over the last two decades.

Studies have shown that Chinese immigration to Prato helped the city counter the effects of the crisis resulting from globalisation in the early 2000s – maintaining the ‘Made in Italy’ label and resuscitating factories in industrial districts that locals had long abandoned. Between 2001 and 2010 Prato lost 40% of its exports, and the local economy may have collapsed without the Chinese immigrants who both drastically slowed the decline of the textile industry and boosted the real estate market. However, some Italians were dismissive of the contribution of the Chinese community in Prato, and with locals lamenting their presence with growing openness, in 2009, for the first time since the Fascist era, Prato elected a right-wing politician – Roberto Cenni, a former textile entrepreneur – as mayor.

Today, Prato is one of Italy’s largest industrial districts operating in the production of wool yarns and fabrics. About 7000 enterprises are active in the area, exporting over half of their output abroad.

A Changing Political Climate

Prato’s turn to the right was a historic event – the city was long considered an unconquerable ‘red fortress’, having been run by mayors belonging to the Italian Communist Party for nearly five consecutive decades. But in 2018 national elections reconfirmed the result and in 2019 the neo-fascist movement known as Forza Nuova organised an anti-immigrant ‘Save Italy’ rally in the city’s historic centre. Locals protested against the rally in large numbers, but in the 2022 round of national elections the right-wing coalition increased its advantage over left-wing parties, with far-right, anti-immigration personalities such as Matteo Salvini and new Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni gaining unprecedented traction.

While the Chinese community has now become a part of Prato’s social fabric at an elemental level, a significant number of its members have recently decided to leave. The political atmosphere, the discrimination suffered during the early stages of the COVID-19 pandemic and Italy’s economic decline have seen up to 10% of the Chinese population give up on Tuscany in the past couple of years. Among second-generation immigrants and long-time residents, however, are many who consider Prato home and could not conceive of abandoning their roots and hyphenated identities. Rather than moving elsewhere, some have decided to try overcoming difficulties from within local institutions. In 2019 Teresa Lin and Marco Wong became the first two city councillors of Chinese origin elected in Prato’s municipality, hoping to kick-start a season of dialogue and rekindling of relations between groups that circumstances have been pushing progressively apart.

Textiles, Prato | EQROY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

TODAY, PRATO IS ONE OF ITALY’S LARGEST INDUSTRIAL DISTRICTS OPERATING IN THE PRODUCTION OF WOOL YARNS AND FABRICS.

FLORENCE’S
DIGITAL RENAISSANCE

Tuscany’s artistic heritage is going digital – though not without concerns. By Angelo Zinna

Palazzo Strozzi, Florence | COLORMAKER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

IN RECENT YEARS, the Uffizi Galleries have made significant investments in digitising their vast collections, using advanced technologies to create faithful copies of world-renowned masterpieces. This effort aims to preserve the artworks and provide remote access for both researchers and tourists. However, the outcomes of this rapid digitisation process have not always been ideal.

The Florentine art world is racing to catch up with technology. In 2022 the city’s leading contemporary art institution – Palazzo Strozzi – launched a major exhibition entitled ‘Let’s Get Digital!’, showcasing a series of pixel-made works produced by some of the most renowned international digital artists. Visitors entering the 15th-century theatrical courtyard of Renaissance architect Simone del Pollaiolo (known as ‘Il Cronaca’) were met with a 9m-tall screen projecting a hypnotic flow of constantly moving, colourful waves. Renaissance Dreams, produced by Turkish-US artist Refik Anadol as part of his cutting-edge series Machine Hallucinations, is a ‘data sculpture’ made by AI-based software continuously blending over 12,000 paintings created between the 14th and 17th centuries to form an abstract, 3D illusion, where virtual pigments appear as a shapeshifting fluid material, crashing and reassembling between the walls of a vertical pool. Those who continued past the exhibition’s opening piece into the halls of Palazzo Strozzi, furnished with screens for the occasion, could admire works by international artists such as Beeple, Daniel Arsham, Krista Kim and Andrés Reisinger, who work with contemporary concepts like AI, NFT and crypto.

While a contemporary art institution can be expected to delve into the innovative and the experimental, Palazzo Strozzi wasn’t the only museum in Florence looking to offer virtual experiences to its visitors. A five-minute walk away, the Uffizi – Florence’s best-known museum complex and one of the world’s most visited – was working relentlessly to take the digitisation of its archive to the next level

Photography & the First Era of Digitisation

Converting art into reproducible images is nothing new – in fact, it is as old as the history of photography. Pioneering the cataloguing of the Uffizi’s treasures in photographic form was Giacomo Brogi, a Florentine artisan educated in engraving who had embraced the photographic medium as early as the 1850s. Initially specialising in portraiture, Brogi shifted to framing artworks to be sold as prints in the studio he established with his son Carlo in 1864. The innovative nature of Brogi’s work positioned him at the forefront of Italian photography, though entering a national museum with a camera wasn’t as easy as it is today. Along with needing special permission from the institution, the Brogis were required (following the introduction of an 1867 law) to submit two copies – one to the Ministry of Education and the other to the museum – of each picture taken of works belonging to a public collection.

The concept of copyright was still fuzzy at the time – no one could yet imagine that millions of photographs of the Uffizi would be circulating freely 150 years later. Still, bureaucracy didn’t stop the Brogis – in 1874 they released their first major catalogue of Florentine art, containing 498 images of works shot at the Uffizi, the Galleria dell’Accademia, the Palazzo Medici Riccardi and elsewhere. The copies of the Brogis’ work held by the museum would contribute to the core of the Uffizi’s official photographic archive established in 1904, a collection of reference material to help artists and scholars learn more about the city’s invaluable heritage.

Virtual Tourists

Today the Uffizi’s archive contains over 600,000 photographs of the 300,000 works scattered around the various galleries managed by the institution, all accessible online. The gigantic effort to give Florentine art a second life has also taken a new direction in the past decade. Following a 2014 plan to scan the 180,000 drawings and prints of the Gabinetto dei Disegni e delle Stampe, the Uffizi signed a contract with the Virtual World Heritage Laboratory (VWHL) of Indiana University to create 3D reproductions of the Greek and Roman sculptures collected by the Medici and Lorraine families between the 15th and 19th centuries. The 3D models of the Uffizi Digitization Project (digitalsculpture.org/florence) allow users to view one of Italy’s most important classical-sculpture collections in unprecedented detail without leaving home.

Travellers may turn up their noses at the idea of visiting a gallery without actually visiting a gallery. But the Uffizi’s expansion into virtual realms turned out to be especially fruitful as the world went into lockdown as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic. In 2020 the Uffizi lost 72% of its visitors, but the museum set up a series of initiatives to continue gathering crowds around its artworks – from a distance. Inspired by Giovanni Boccaccio’s The Decameron, the classic collection of short stories told by 10 Florentines escaping the Black Death in the mid-14th century, the Uffizi ran digital guided tours of its galleries, reaching nearly four million people within a few months – a number close to its physical visitors in pre-pandemic times. The first event of its kind – a 360-degree virtual tour of the museum’s new Venetian rooms – was viewed by 110,000 people, and the museum’s newly launched, meme-friendly TikTok account rapidly surpassed its first 20,000 followers with its ironic 15-second clips.

Visitors returned to the Uffizi in great numbers in 2021, but the digital projects didn’t stop. With Italian schools getting more used to distance learning, the Uffizi made available its art experts to teach kids around the country about the Renaissance, while influencer campaigns attempted to draw younger generations through the museum’s now booming social media accounts (though not without criticism). Between 2020 and 2022 the Uffizi completed another of its major digital endeavours – the 3D reconstruction of Palazzo Pitti, former residence of the Medici and the city’s largest historic civic building – by combining tens of thousands of images depicting the structure’s 1533 rooms. Palazzo Pitti’s pixel-built twin is the first historic building of this size to be digitally replicated with such fidelity.

Uffizi, Florence | TICHR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Riding the NFT Wave

With so many investments in digitisation, it seemed inevitable that when non-fungible tokens (NFTs) appeared as a promising solution to certify the authenticity of digital art the Uffizi would jump on board. NFTs are blockchain-based unique identifiers that, when attached to a file such as a painting reproduction, can certify its ownership and originality. In 2021 the Italian startup Cinello was contracted to create a digital copy of Michelangelo’s Doni Tondo – the artist’s only surviving panel painting and one of the Uffizi’s highlights – authenticating it as the only certified copy of the physical artwork. The encrypted, pixel-perfect version of the Doni Tondo was sold as an NFT to an art collector for €240,000, of which only €70,000 went to the Uffizi.

The sale sparked a major backlash, with both the media and the art world questioning the decision to put works of universal value in the hands of private tech companies looking to make a quick buck. As museums worldwide jump on the NFT bandwagon before laws can get a grip on such fast-moving technologies, there are doubts about heritage management, just as there were when photography first appeared. Only one thing is certain – the boundaries between the real and the virtual are getting more blurred by the day.

Uffizi, Florence | HASNI KASIM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THE 3D MODELS OF THE UFFIZI DIGITIZATION PROJECT ALLOW USERS TO VIEW ONE OF ITALY’S MOST IMPORTANT CLASSICAL-SCULPTURE COLLECTIONS IN UNPRECEDENTED DETAIL WITHOUT LEAVING HOME.

FORGOTTEN WOMEN
IN THE RENAISSANCE

Statues of influential women are rare in Florence’s public spaces, highlighting hidden stories of discrimination beneath the city’s celebrated Renaissance history. By Angelo Zinna

Uffizi, Florence | MAYKOVA GALINA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

AN ABUNDANCE OF statues of prominent historical figures decorates Florence’s UNESCO-inscribed historic centre – almost none of them, however, represent the women who have lived in the city and shaped its identity.

In the mid-16th century, Duke of Florence Cosimo I de’ Medici embarked on an ambitious urban redevelopment project to modernise the city. He decided to clear the disorderly medieval houses around Palazzo Vecchio and replace the dark, narrow alleys near the Arno river with a large, sunlit courtyard surrounded by a symmetrical set of galleries, which would become known as the Uffizi. At that time, Florence had fewer than 60,000 inhabitants. Giorgio Vasari, the court architect responsible for the design, could not have imagined that five centuries later, up to five million people would visit this space, initially built to house administrative offices, every year.

Converted into a museum in the 18th century, the Uffizi has since become Florence’s calling card and often visitors’ first encounter with its history and heritage. The introduction to the city’s cultural legacy begins outside the museum. As you queue to access the galleries, you’ll notice 28 statues occupying the niches in the palace’s exterior. Among these are statues of Dante, Donatello, Machiavelli, Galileo, Leonardo, Michelangelo and other prominent figures, placed here in the 19th century to celebrate the great minds that have shaped the city since the Middle Ages. Notably, there are no women among these icons.

The absence of women in Florence’s sculptural landscape is not confined to this corner of the city. Although thousands of statues adorn Florence’s public spaces, representations of real women are rare. To better understand the root of this disparity, I asked Giulia Cosentino, a cultural tour guide, researcher and founder of Le Ragazze di San Frediano (@leragazzedisanfrediano), to meet me at a cafe in Santo Spirito. For years, Giulia has designed tours to present the city from the perspective of female voices buried under centuries of male-authored history books. When I met her on a sunny spring day she explained, ‘It would be wrong to say that women are not represented at all, but while men appear as biblical and mythological heroes, saints and historical figures, women are shown almost exclusively as allegorical images of virtue or in the guise of the Virgin.’

Florence has a long and strong Marian predilection. Until 1750, when the Lorraine government standardised the calendar, the Florentine New Year was celebrated on 25 March, Annunciation Day, and over a thousand tabernacles dedicated to the Virgin Mary are still scattered around the historic centre. Yet, beyond religious storytelling, the gender imbalance is evident. ‘Between the 14th and 17th centuries, discrimination against women was present across all levels of society,’ Giulia said. ‘Only in recent decades has historiography attempted to shed light on the role of women in the Renaissance, but a major obstacle is that one of the many forms of discrimination against women was depriving them of an education. Even aristocratic women were often unable to read and write.’

The humanist ideals that shaped the Renaissance – from the importance of classical culture to the centrality of the individual in society – did lead to modest improvements in women’s ability to possess material goods and gain a basic education, at least among the upper classes. Yet, this philosophy failed to erase the prejudices standing in the way of independence.

Virgin Mary statue, Florence | OROCH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

With limited opportunities for self-representation, women in the Renaissance were often portrayed as idealised figures that fit the morals and desires of men in power. The Virgin Mary became the template for such idealisation – a model of virtue and behaviour that could be applied universally. ‘This dynamic can be observed in the work of many writers of the time, such as the 16th-century Florentine author Paolo da Certaldo, who in his Libro dei buoni costumi (Book of Good Manners) explicitly stated that women should behave like the Virgin Mary – meaning they should not go around chatting with other women or meeting men outside the house but rather keep quiet and stay locked in an “honest” place. Everything, in short, followed the logic of sacrifice and deprivation.’

Understanding how women perceived their role in Florentine society during the Renaissance is a time-consuming job. ‘Women’s words must often be sought in the folds of the papers, among letters, wills and trial testimonies,’ said Giulia. Even women who pursued ecclesiastical careers often did so not out of a divine calling but for lack of alternatives. Large families could force daughters to become nuns to avoid having an additional mouth to feed. ‘This was the case of Maria Vittoria Frescobaldi, who was sent to the Monastery of San Verdiana when she was only five, in 1564. She rebelled against the rules of the monastery by singing, and when she turned 18, she began an illegal love affair with fellow musician Sinolfo Ottieri. Records of the time show that when she was caught, she requested a “virginity test” to prove her innocence, but the request was rejected, and she was condemned to years of isolation.’

The women who entered the church of Santa Elisabetta, in Via dei Serragli, were also hardly committed to the Virgin Mary’s way of life. ‘This was known as the church of le convertite (the converted) because it welcomed former sex workers who turned into nuns for lack of better alternatives. To get accepted, the women had to demonstrate their desire for redemption and accept a future of chastity and isolation. It wasn’t an easy life, but often the only choice available. Rules were so strict that in the mid-16th century, a group of nuns led by Sandra da Pistoia decided to revolt and escape the monastery,’ said Giulia.

It was a short-lived revolution – the women were caught shortly after their escape, and Sandra da Pistoia was condemned to two years in prison. Yet, it is one of the many stories emerging from the depths of Florentine libraries, showing that even institutions meant to rescue and protect those in need often turned into instruments to control and marginalise women. Only in the 18th century, as the Renaissance came to a close and new Enlightenment ideals favoured emancipation, groups of upper-class women began meeting in literary salons to openly discuss issues of inequality and initiate a feminist discourse.

These hidden histories of Florentine women, whether cloistered in monasteries or immortalised in neglected documents, reveal a complex narrative of resilience and defiance against societal constraints. As you walk through the city’s storied streets and admire its art and architecture, it’s worth stopping to read between the lines – what is missing may have as much to say as figures placed on pedestals.

Madonna with Child, Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, Florence | VOYLODYON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

‘WHILE MEN APPEAR AS BIBLICAL AND MYTHOLOGICAL HEROES, SAINTS AND HISTORICAL FIGURES, WOMEN ARE SHOWN ALMOST EXCLUSIVELY AS ALLEGORICAL IMAGES OF VIRTUE OR IN THE GUISE OF THE VIRGIN.’
– GIULIA COSENTINO

TUSCANY:
STILL RESISTING?

As one of Italy’s historically red regions, Tuscany continues to commemorate its antifascist heritage with annual ‘never forget’ events. However, the rise of Giorgia Meloni’s far-right government brings a stark contrast to these celebrations, especially in Tuscany’s traditionally left-leaning Red Belt. By Mary Gray

Mary Gray is a writer, journalist, and editor based in Florence.

TUSCANY WAS ONE of the regions where antifascist activity was most pronounced – both during Mussolini’s regime (1922–1943) and in the years of German occupation and the Italian Civil War (1943–45). At Palazzo Quirinale, on 22 October 2022 – a week shy of the anniversary of Mussolini’s evening train journey to Rome, after King Vittorio Emanuele III asked him to form a cabinet – Giorgia Meloni, once a fringe figure, took the oath of office. For the march’s major anniversary, the region’s cultural institutes, archives and museums had been gearing up to host events of the ‘never forget’ variety.

The on-the-money timing rang a bit louder in Tuscany – part of Italy’s traditionally left-leaning Red Belt, together with Marche, Umbria and Emilia-Romagna – than it might have across other regions. Meloni’s party, Fratelli d’Italia (Brothers of Italy), is staunchly nativist and has been described as neo-fascist, given its near-direct descent from the Italian Social Movement (MSI), which was founded by Mussolini supporters in the wake of his 1945 execution. (Meloni – who is rousing and incendiary before supporters, but subdued and calmly defensive with challengers – has downplayed such associations, though her party maintains the MSI’s signature tricolour flame on its flag.)

Time will tell if the prevailing political mood in 2020s Tuscany shifts from resignation to more active resistance – or indeed, if the national reality will even hold. If the new government were more widely expected to last, it’s reasonable to predict that Tuscany would become a hub for pushback: Historical memory of antifascist and partigiano (partisan) activity still has legs around the region, though its manifestations may be subtle, even for the most attentive visitors.

Florence is a case in point. For all its Renaissance gloss, its heritage of resistance crops up all over the city, though more as background noise than anything outwardly obvious. Pockets of the one-time blue-collar neighbourhood of San Frediano and its periphery carry much of the legacy’s weight. At the base of the leafy roads leading up to Bellosguardo hill, just past the edge of what is commonly understood as San Frediano, is a converted 19th century convent, now a literary cafe-bistro and a hub for artisan botteghe (workshops). Though the collective of botteghe, in its current iteration, has only been present since 2016, and the adjacent literary cafe since 2019, both present-day realities draw upon the space’s past vocation.

During the 1920s, the ‘Conventino,’ as it came to be known, already housed artisan workshops and artist studios after being purchased by a bronzework company. It quickly became a gathering space for antifascist thinkers, writers, painters and intellectuals, with activity that the fascist regime repeatedly attempted to squelch – including a clandestine printing press for L’Unità, the official newspaper of the Italian Communist Party (PCI). After September 1943, the Conventino became a secret meeting place for the Tuscan Committee of National Liberation (CTLN) – a regional offshoot of the countrywide group – as well as a weapons depot and shelter for endangered partisans. That lineup included a young Sandro Pertini, who would go on to become prime minister in 1978, and Carlo Levi, the Torinese painter and author of Christ Stopped at Eboli. (Levi, who had two targets on his back as both a partisan and a Jew, nonetheless frequently hosted the CTLN’s press contingent at the apartment where he was sheltering in Piazza Pitti. These meetings would give rise to La Nazione del Popolo, the publication of the CTLN, which Levi edited.)

The broader legacy of collectivity and inclusivity in Tuscany that these stories are part of predates antifascist resistance, and even the unification of Italy. The roughhewn port city of Livorno, for example – the birthplace of the PCI in 1921 – has long had a mosaic social makeup. In the late 16th century, aiming to increase Livorno’s economic clout, Grand Duke Ferdinando I de’ Medici issued a series of ‘Livornine laws’ welcoming refugees, ethnic minorities and persecuted religious groups, facilitating the arrival of merchants, artisans and sailors of all backgrounds. The Grand Duke’s call, which would go on to be known as the Livornine Constitution, addresses its readers in a ‘come one, come all’ tone that’s diametrically opposed to the rhetoric of today’s border defending firebrands: ‘To all merchants of every nation ... We grant free and ample safe-conduct, faculty and license that you may come, stay, do business, pass through and reside here with your families, without departing, returning [or] negotiating.’ Centuries later, the constitution’s long-haul consequences play into everything from voting patterns to the culturally checkered local cuisine. Livorno’s multicultural mealtimes are just one instance of how Tuscany’s sociopolitical DNA is often seen more in quotidian scenarios and participatory experiences, rather than in overtly stated ideology or nonstop on-the-streets activism. One particularly convivial piece of Tuscany’s antifascist legacy are the bare-bones, redflagged ‘rec rooms’ and social centres that you may well find around the corner from your Tuscan B&B. These are the circoli (clubs) of the Associazione Ricreativa e Culturale Italiana (Italian Recreational and Cultural Association), the country’s largest non-profit association without ties to the Catholic Church. Though only officially founded in Florence in 1957, ARCI’s roots are far deeper: circoli and case del popolo (literally ‘houses of the people’) first gained traction in Tuscany and neighbouring Emilia-Romagna in the late 19th century, as autonomously organised social spaces for workers hit hard by the newly united Italy’s economic crisis. These community spaces grew around the country by the thousands in the wake of WWII, and today, ARCI, the organisation to which most of them now belong, describes itself as ‘heirs of the mutualist tradition of popular and antifascist movements’. In fact, every year on 25 July, anniversary of the fall of the fascist regime, most clubs host a splashy Pastasciutta Antifascista – antifascist pasta party – borrowed from an originally Emilian tradition. Crossing cultural, generational and racial lines, these cooperatives are where you’ll often see gregarious pensioners knocking back a caffè corretto with the morning paper, scruffy pups snoozing at the feet of their card-playing masters, and friends enjoying nice-priced local pasta paired unceremoniously with the house plonk.

Circoli ARCI, San Giovanni Valdarno | WIKIMEDIA COMMONS/ WALTER GIANNETTI ©

Circolo culture and the stories of partisan resistance speak for themselves. But the tendency toward inclusivity in modern and contemporary Tuscany is just that: a tendency, not a universal reality. Plenty of physical spaces and personal legacies deviate from the region’s overarching pattern, or played rarely revisited roles in pushing forth the other side of the story. A blatant historical example is the idyllic San Rossore in the Pisa province. Now a regional park, it was the ‘backyard’ for the holiday residence of King Vittorio Emanuele III, the base camp from which he did much of his governing for six months of the year, from June to November. In 1922, in fact, he was on the estate when authorising the March on Rome; later, in 1938, San Rossore was ground zero for the king’s signing of the first in fascist Italy’s series of leggi razziali (racial laws), which legitimised persecution of the Jewish population.

The juxtaposition of lush setting and lurid history is jarring, and yet not readily visible, save for a curiosity-piquing traffic roundabout, christened ‘Anne (Anna) Frank’, on the roadway leading to the park. (It was only given its name in 2021, on the 83rd anniversary of the racial laws’ enactment.)

Those Tuscans who’ve accused the new powers-that-be of nostalgia for fascism perhaps risk facing their own version of the same thing: acknowledging the darker parts of their history belatedly or understatedly, resting on their region’s resistance laurels or, after this crystallisation of long-simmering national trends, cynically withdrawing from the discourse altogether. But Tuscans don’t disengage from conversations easily – provided the circoli stay open.

CIRCOLI AND CASE DEL POPOLO (LITERALLY ‘HOUSES OF THE PEOPLE’) FIRST GAINED TRACTION IN TUSCANY AND NEIGHBOURING EMILIA-ROMAGNA IN THE LATE 19TH CENTURY, AS AUTONOMOUSLY ORGANISED SOCIAL SPACES FOR WORKERS HIT HARD BY THE NEWLY UNITED ITALY’S ECONOMIC CRISIS.

“Reaching the higher grounds of the Garfagnana along its narrow, twisting roads, I feel like I’ve entered a different Tuscany. Every view has to be earned, and that’s what makes each day up here so rewarding.”

ANGELO ZINNA

“I’ve been to Siena over 20 times, and I’m afraid to say I have never climbed the iconic Torre del Mangia. I’m terribly afraid of heights!”

FEDERICA BOCCO

THIS BOOK

Destination Editor

Daniel Bolger

Production Editor

Saralinda Turner

Book Designer

Norma Brewer

Cartographer

Valentina Kremenchutskaya

Assisting Editors

Gabrielle Innes, Helen Koehne, Jenna Myers, Charlotte Orr

Cover Researcher

Kat Marsh

Thanks Ronan Abayawickrema, Rachel Imeson, Karen Henderson

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Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited

CRN 554153

14th edition – May 2025

ISBN 978 1 83758 801 5

© Lonely Planet 2025 Photographs © as indicated 2025

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