TURN THE PAGE AND START PLANNING

YOUR NEXT BEST TRIP 

Feel history's pulse at castles,

prehistoric standing stones and ruined

abbeys. Jump off a cliff, ride waves or

walk a sheep. Retreat to off-the-radar eco

escapes with farm-to-fork menus. Taste

Welsh produce. Drink craft ale. Shoot for

the Michelin stars. Glimpse the Milky

Way. Drive lanes over moor and mountain.

Hike to lonely, wind-battered peaks. Crest

dunes, spot puffins and find coves with

rocks older than dinosaurs. And touch

this land's literary soul as poets and

writers have over centuries.

This is Wales.

Amy Pay

@YayAmyPay

Amy has always lived in Wales and loves the country's

combination of coast, countryside and culture. She

loves wandering around Cardiff's Bute Park (p57),

kicking back with friends in local coffee shops (p76)

and exploring wild West Wales.

Kerry Walker

@kerryawalker

kerryawalker.com, undiscovered-wales.co.uk

Kerry lives in the glorious middle-of-nowhere in

the Cambrian Mountains, where all you can hear is

rushing water, whistling red kites and bleating sheep.

She’s happiest when hiking the Pembrokeshire Coast

Path (p170) or gazing up to starry night skies (p88).

Luke Waterson

@Lukeandhiswords

Living in Wales since 2016, Luke is a big fan of the

out-of-the-way and the way-off-the-beaten-track. He

loves all wild Welsh places, especially the Cambrian

Mountains of Mid-Wales (p190).

Contributing writers

MARK

CAUNT/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

Portia Jones

@pipsays

Portia Jones is a Welsh travel writer and host of

the Travel Goals Podcast. When she isn’t writing

or podcasting, she can be found hiking, swimming

outdoors in icy waters and drinking endless cups of

coffee in bougie cafes.

Meet our writers

3

WALES MEET

OUR

WRITERS

Atlantic puffin (p154)

PREVIOUS SPREAD: BILLY STOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

EDWARD

HAYLAN/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

WALES CONTENTS

Best Experiences ................6

Calendar ........................... 24

Trip Builders ..................... 32

7 Things to

Know About Wales ........... 40

Read, Listen,

Watch & Follow................. 42

Cardiff

44

Multicultural Marvels....... 50

Markets & Makers............ 52

Capital Green Zones ........ 56

Castle to Castle................ 62

Wales on a Plate............... 66

Cardiff Bay: Then & Now...68

Coastal Escapes............... 70

Listings ..............................76

Brecon Beacons

& Southeast Wales

78

Foraging Feast.................. 84

Star of Wonder ................. 88

Sheep Trekking................. 92

One Peak Over.................. 94

Literary Hay...................... 98

The Fantasy Village ........ 100

Food at the Source..........102

Behind the Wheel

in the Vale of Ewyas ........106

Romance in

the Wye Valley .................108

Listings ............................ 110

Swansea, the Gower

& Carmarthenshire

112

Discovering Dylan ........... 118

Swansea Bay Victuals.....122

The Prehistoric Gower....126

Big Beach Bike Tour........128

Botanic Garden

Meander ..........................130

Carmarthenshire's

Castles.............................132

Brechfa Forest Forays.....136

Llyn Brianne & Beyond...138

Listings ............................140

St Davids &

Pembrokeshire

142

Coasteering Capers........148

Gwaun Valley

Time Travel ......................150

Puffin Heaven

on Skomer.......................154

Green Light for

St Davids .........................158

Pembrokeshire

on a Plate.........................160

The Call of the Coast ......164

Hiking the

Pembrokeshire

Coast Path.......................170

Listings ............................ 172

Mid-Wales

174

Aberystwyth Delights .... 180

Desperately

Seeking Dolphins ............184

Machynlleth’s

Eco Cred ..........................188

Mountainous

Isolation.......................... 190

Revolutionary

Roamings.........................192

Offa’s Dyke Path

Options ............................196

Spa Town Oddities ..........198

Riding the Rails ..............200

Listings ........................... 202

Snowdonia, Anglesey

& the North

204

Ynys Enlli

Pilgrimage .......................210

Ynys Llanddwyn

for Lovers.........................212

The Sands Below

the Summits....................214

The Northwest

Fortified ...........................216

Walk Conwy's

Medieval Town Walls .......218

Seaside Fun

in Llandudno...................220

Contents

4

Interior of Cardiff Castle (p62)

WALES CONTENTS

Boating

Llangollen Canal.............224

Berwyn

Mountains Magic ...........226

Beyond Snowdon...........230

Listings ...........................236

Practicalities

238

Arriving ...........................240

Getting Around...............242

Safe Travel ......................244

Money.............................245

Responsible Travel .........246

Accommodation ............248

Essentials .......................250

Language........................252

ESSAYS

Womanby Street ..............54

A Country of Castles........64

Smoke & Fire....................86

Myths & Magic .................96

Coracle Catches............. 134

Prehistory in the

Preseli Hills..................... 152

Saints & the Sea............. 168

A Colourful Yarn ............. 194

Crafting the Craft...........222

The Sparkle

of Slate............................234

VISUAL GUIDES

Cardiff's Statues

& Sculptures.....................60

Don't Leave

Cardiff Without................. 74

Love Is a Spoon ................90

Bounty of Sea & Soil ...... 124

Wild Creatures

of Wales .......................... 156

The Eisteddfod &

Traditional Welsh

Entertainment................ 186

Prehistoric Wales

in Pictures.......................228

5

6

TOWERING

HISTORY

Standing stones, dolmens and

Iron Age hill forts, medieval castles

laid to romantic ruin, formidable

coastal fortresses, abbeys, monasteries

and mighty cathedrals: if you have a

taste for history, you'll feast on Wales.

These pointers to the past look at how

the country was shaped physically,

spiritually and politically: from King

Arthur legends and Celtic saints to the

boggy land so bitterly fought over by the

Welsh and Normans.

Wales has

around 600

castles – that's

more per square

mile than any-

where else on

Earth.

North Wales has

four UNESCO

World Heritage

castles, belong-

ing to the Iron

Ring quartet of

13th-century

fortresses built

by King Edward I.

WALES

BEST

EXPERIENCES

MICK

SHARP/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

RIGHT:

BILLY

STOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK

©,

LEFT:

DAVID

LYONS/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

7

Left Carreg Cennen (p97)

Right Graveyard, Bardsey Island

(p210) Below Tintern Abbey (p109)

PREHISTORY IN THE PRESELI HILLS

The bracken-swathed moors and crags of Pembrokeshire's

Preseli Hills are home to the mysterious bluestone that

built Stonehenge. For total prehistoric immersion, hike the

Golden Road.

u Uncover the history on p152

Û ROMANCE IN THE STONE

Embosomed in the thickly wooded Wye Valley, the

romantic ruins of Tintern Abbey inspired Turner's brush

and Coleridge's pen.

u Lace up your boots for our Wye Valley walking tour on p108

Ú SAINTS & STARS

Sail to the wave-

smashed cliffs of Ynys

Enlli (Bardsey Island),

purported burial place

of 20,000 saints and

among Britain’s most

enchanting pilgrim-

age and stargazing

destinations.

u Find out more on p210

WALES BEST

EXPERIENCES

Best Historical

Experiences

u Feel the pull of the past at

medieval fantasy castle Carreg

Cennen. (p97)

u Cycle between lavish castles

on Cardiff's Taff Trail. (p62)

u Roam the ramparts of

King Edward I's Iron Ring of

strongholds. (p216)

u Hunt for hill forts, castles,

caves and giant graves on the

Gower. (p126)

u Pilgrimage to mighty St

David's Cathedral and the relics

of Wales' patron saint. (p168)

8

NATURAL

HIGHS

With rivers deep, mountains

high, moody moors and wave-battered

shores, nature unleashes its full force

in Wales. Rain? Mud? Who cares?

Bring waterproofs and rubber boots

to embrace the elements: whether you

are flinging yourself off a cliff edge

coasteering, caving, wild swimming or

white-water rafting, hitting Atlantic surf,

leaping onto a bike saddle in a forgotten

fairy-tale forest, or taking a stubborn

sheep for a walk.

From its source

at Llyn Brianne

in the Cambrian

Mountains

to the sea at

Carmarthen Bay,

the River Towy

is Wales' longest

river at 75 miles.

Wales' three

national parks

(Snowdonia,

Pembrokeshire

Coast and Brecon

Beacons) cover

20% of the land.

WALES

BEST

EXPERIENCES

TEENASPARKLER/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

RIGHT:

COLIN

MCPHERSON/GETTY

IMAGES

©

LEFT:

PHILIP

BIRD

LRPS

CPAGB/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

9

Left Cardiff International White Water

(p69) Right Hiker, Brecon Beacons

(p94) Below Zip World (p237)

WHEN TO GO

April to September is best for most activities (expect

fewer crowds in spring and autumn), while surfers hit the

waves in winter.

Û GOING UNDERGROUND

Disused slate mines in Snowdonia (Eryri) have been

reborn as Zip World (p237), with pulse-quickening activ-

ities from the world's fastest zipline (Velocity 2) to giant

trampolines (Bounce Below).

Ú RESPONSIBLE

THRILLS

Wales looks gentle,

but the weather and

terrain can be tough.

Stick to trails, take care

wild swimming and, for

extreme sports, get a

qualified guide.

WALES BEST

EXPERIENCES

Best Outdoor

Experiences

u Follow the flock while

sheep trekking in the Brecon

Beacons. (p92)

u Get a white-water buzz

rafting and tubing in the heart

of Cardiff with CIWW. (p69)

u Mountain bike in the wilds of

Brechfa Forest. (p136)

u Feel your heart race and legs

turn to jelly as you face the

thrashing sea while coasteering

in Pembrokeshire. (p148)

u Ride big Atlantic waves at

Llangennith on the Gower

Peninsula. (p128)

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Isle of

Anglesey

Gower Peninsula

Llŷn

Peninsula

St Brides

Bay

Carmarthen

Bay

Cardigan

Bay

Caernarfon

Bay

Bristol

Channel

Atlantic

Ocean

Cambrian

Mountains

Pembrokeshire

Coast

National Park

Pembroke

Haverfordwest

Fishguard

Beaumaris

Porthmadog

Pwllheli

Blaenau

Ffestiniog

Tenby

Milford

Haven

Dolgellau

Swansea

Holyhead

Carmarthen

Aberystwyth

Llanelli

Caernarfon

Cardigan

Bangor

St Dogmaels

Kilgetty

Fairbourne

v

ĥ

E

v

E Ģ

0

50 km

0

25 miles

e

Pembrokeshire Coast Path

The sea, the sea

Competition is fierce, but this

186-mile romp over cliff and

stile and through kissing gate is

hands-down one of the loveliest

coastal paths in Britain, with

castaway coves, vast dune-

rimmed beaches, woods, cute

fishing villages, prehistoric rocks

and endless views of sea and sky.

ń 5min from Cardigan u p170

Pumlumon Fawr

Lonely heights

The wind is savage, but the soaring views from the

rough, barren slopes of Pumlumon Fawr (752m)

are as uplifting as a male voice choir. Climb the

stark summit, the highest point in the Cambrian

Mountains, before pushing on to the boggy source

of the River Severn. You’ll barely see another soul.

ń 40min from Aberystwyth u p191

10

LIFE ON

THE EDGE

Scramble up a glacier-scoured ridge, eyes

alighting on a flint-blue lake in the valley beyond.

March across a boggy, bracken-cloaked moor, alone

with the whistling wind and red kites. Wander a

gorse-yellow cliff path, the Irish Sea pounding below

against deep thumbprint coves. The truest way to

see Wales is to walk it: peak to peak, bay to bay,

moor to mountain.

WALES

BEST

EXPERIENCES

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: WIRESTOCK CREATORS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

JOHN DAVID PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, DAVID PIMBOROUGH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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E N G L A N D

Eryri

(Snowdonia)

National Park

Brecon Beacons

(Bannau Brycheiniog)

National Park

Llanddewi Skirrid

Hay-on-Wye

Brecon

Monmouth

Porthcawl

Abergavenny

Rhyl

Talgarth

Chepstow

Pontypridd

Aberdare

Pontypool

Caerphilly

Llandrindod

Wells

Bridgend

Welshpool

Llanidloes

Colwyn

Bay

Newtown

Port

Talbot

Merthyr

Tydfil

Chester

Newport

Llandudno

Birmingham

Shrewsbury

Hereford

CARDIFF

Prestatyn

Staunton

on Wye

Ģ

v

E

v

Ő

E

v

E

ĥ

Ő

v

E

North Wales Pilgrim's Way

Saintly wonder

Feel the pulse of 1500 years of history as you follow

in the footsteps of 6th-century Celtic saints on this

135-mile trek from Flintshire's Basingwerk Abbey

(pictured) to Aberdaron on the ravishingly beautiful

Llŷn Peninsula. Your end goal is Bardsey Island, which

medieval bards called 'the direct path to Heaven'.

ń 30min from Chester to Basingwerk Abbey

u p211

Beacons Way

Into the wild

You can race up 886m Pen-y-Fan like

thousands of others, but to dive properly

into the Brecon Beacons, hit this 99-mile

trail from Skirrid to Bethlehem. It gets

wilder out west, where glacier-gouged

peaks break like waves, and the bog and

the boggy moor rolls on forever.

ń 15min from Abergavenny to Skirrid

u p94

Offa's Dyke Path

An Anglo-Saxon stomp

Marching from Chepstow to

Prestatyn, this 177-mile hike

through the history-steeped,

gently beautiful Welsh–English

borderlands follows the mighty

earthwork built by Mercian king

Offa in the 8th century. Castles,

abbeys, hill forts, quaint market

towns and the woody romance

of the Wye Valley await.

ŉ 30min from Cardiff u p196

Cwm Pennant

Snowdonia seclusion

Give Snowdonia (Eryri) crowds the slip

and instead dally on this 10-mile trail

through arguably Wales' prettiest valley,

Cwm Pennant. Thick forests, glittering

llyns, ragged peaks, old slate workings

and wild swims enthral and provide a

taste of Snowdonia before mass tourism.

ń 25min from Caernarfon u p231

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Ù

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Ramsey

Island

Ynys Enll

(Bardsey Island)

Skomer

Island

Caldey

I R E L A N D

Atlantic

Ocean

St Brides

Bay

Irish Sea

Pembrokeshire

Coast

National Park

Pembrokeshire

Coast

National Park

Aberdaron

Pembroke

Haverfordwest

Fishguard

Tenby

Milford

Haven

Cardigan

Kilgetty

Ŕ Ē

ŕ

Đ Ŕ

E

Ő E

Cardigan Bay

Flipping good fun

Take a breezy boat trip along

Cardigan Bay to spot Europe's

largest resident population of

bottlenose dolphins frolicking

in shallow waters. Keep an eye

out for seabirds on the cliffs

and Atlantic grey seals in the

caves.

ń 2hr from Cardiff to

Cardigan u p184

Dinas Head

Castaway fantasy

Deep smugglers' coves, gorse-clad cliffs, starkly

eroded rock formations and storm-ruined

chapels have you on a high on the 3-mile circular

trail that whips around spellbinding Dinas Head,

presenting Pembrokeshire in microcosm. Look

out for puffins, seals and seabirds.

ń 15min from Newport u p167

Skomer

Puffins, puffins, everywhere

You'll never see puffins closer than on the high

sea cliffs of Skomer in Pembrokeshire, where they

number over 42,500. Go on the circular walk of

the wildflower-freckled island in summer to see

them emerging from their burrows and bringing

in sand eels for their ridiculously cute pufflings.

ň 15min from Martins Haven u p154

12

THE WILD,

WILD COAST

Cliff-wrapped coves of pirate fantasy, dune-

swathed beaches rippling down to the booming

Atlantic, pier-crowned Victorian seaside resorts,

fossil-rich rocks older than dinosaurs, boat trips to

puffin-filled islands and seas swirling with bottlenose

dolphins – name your coastal dream, Wales has it.

The country's 1680-mile coast is way up there with

Britain's most beautiful.

WALES

BEST

EXPERIENCES

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E N G L A N D

Gower

Peninsula

Llŷn

Peninsula

Burry

Inlet

Cardigan

Bay

Tremadog

Bay

Bristol

Channel

Snowdonia (Eryri)

National Park

Brecon Beacons

(Bannau Brycheiniog)

National Park

Hay-

on-Wye

Brecon

Monmouth

Porthcawl

Abergavenny

Porthmadog

Pwllheli

Talgarth

Pontypridd

Caerphilly

Llandrindod

Wells

Bridgend

Dolgellau

Swansea

Carmarthen

Llanidloes

Aberystwyth

Port

Talbot

Llanelli

Merthyr

Tydfil

Hereford

CARDIFF

Ogmore-by-Sea

Barry

Staunton

on Wye

Hope-under-

Dinmore

Fairbourne

ħ

ĥ

Ē

ŕ

ħ

E

0

50 km

0

25 miles

e

Cefn Sidan

Wales' longest beach

If you like your beaches big and your horizons

wide, you can lose yourself totally amid the

dunes, woods and shipwrecks on the 8-mile-

long blonde sands of Cefn Sidan at Pembrey

Country Park. The name means 'Silky Ridge'

and the sunsets are something else.

ń 45min from Llanelli u p129

Ynys Enlli

Saints alive

You’ll never forget the stirring view of

Dark Sky Sanctuary Ynys Enlli (Bardsey

Island), rearing out of the silvery Irish

Sea like a sleeping sea dragon from the

headland of Braich y Pwll. Celtic history

pulses on this pilgrimage island, said to

be the burial place of 20,000 saints.

ň 20min from Porth Meudwy u p210

Ogmore-by-Sea

Dunes and dinosaur prints

The expansive sands on the

Glamorgan Heritage Coast are your

springboard for the vast Merthyr

Mawr sand dunes. The limestone

cliffs are a rich layer-cake of

300-million-year-old fossils like

brachiopods and dinosaur prints.

ń 15min from Bridgend u p73

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: NUZULU/GETTY IMAGES ©

ALASDAIRJAMES/GETTY IMAGES ©

TIRC83/GETTY IMAGES ©

14

PICNIC TIME

FOR PRODUCERS

Not only the sheep enjoy grazing

in Wales. As the food scene booms,

the country is bursting at the seams

with innovative producers, carving out

unique and gourmet niches. Cheese,

chocolate, wine, single-estate tea (yes,

tea!), seafood fresh off the boats, lamb

from the fields, venison from the forests,

sea salt, chillies, vermouth, gin – you

name it, you'll find it here. Get stuck in.

Welsh wine is

having a moment,

with around 30

wineries and

counting.

Wales currently

has 20 Geograph-

ical Indication

products, among

them Welsh

lamb, Caer-

philly cheese,

Anglesey sea

salt, Pembroke-

shire potatoes

and West Wales

coracle-caught

sewin.

WALES

BEST

EXPERIENCES

TEAHOUSE

PHOTOGRAPHY

©

RIGHT:

JAX10289/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

LEFT:

MATT

CARDY/GETTY

IMAGES

©

15

Left Vineyard, Tintern Right

Gower Gin (p123) Below Market stall,

Swansea

MUST TRY

Hunt down meaty, creamy sewin, the rare Welsh sea trout

hauled in by just a handful of traditional coracle fishers.

u Dive further into coracle fishing on p134

Û TO MARKET

Browse the markets in Swansea and Cardiff for a feast of

local produce, from cockles and laverbread to Gower salt

marsh lamb and Welsh cakes.

u Seek out these and other Welsh treats on p124

Ú BOTTLE IT

Exciting new micro-

distilleries are popping

up all the time, crafting

gin, vermouth and even

whisky. Many offer

tours and tastings,

among them Gower

Gin Company (p123),

Pembrokeshire's

Still Wild (p162) and

Snowdonia's Aber

Falls (p237).

WALES BEST

EXPERIENCES

Best Tasting

Experiences

u Tour and taste at Peterston

Tea estate in the Vale of

Glamorgan. (p103)

u Slurp Atlantic Edge Oysters,

sustainably hand-harvested in

Angle Bay. (p162)

u Sip Welsh whites and rosés

at Llanerch Vineyard. (p104)

u Shop for Welsh oak-smoked

salmon, trout and quail at

Black Mountains Smokery.

(p104)

u Buy artisan cheeses at Caws

Cenarth. (p203)

16

THE PERFECT

PINT

You might think it's just you and a thousand

sheep as you wind through the back lanes of Wales,

but suddenly – oh joy! – a country inn appears like a

mirage, with beams medievally low, fire lit and real ales

on tap. From historic taverns where Shakespeare and

Dylan Thomas once nursed a pint, to microbreweries

creating a buzz with craft beers (p222), there's always

something brewing.

Wales is a thirsty

country with a

plethora of proper

pubs, swish

cocktail joints and

rural boozers.

There are around

90 Welsh brew-

eries tapping into

a rich brewing

heritage.

Best Beer

Experiences

u Seek out ghosts at

Skirrid Mountain Inn.

(pictured; p106)

u Sip Welsh craft

ales from Monty's

Brewery. (p203)

u Recite Dylan Thom-

as at Swansea's No

Sign Wine Bar. (p121)

u Drink bass at

Bessie's in Cwm

Gwaun. (p151)

u Meet the Magic

Dragon in Wrexham.

(p223)

4

SEASON

BACKPACKING/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

17

GOURMET

TASTES

The space, freedom and bounty of Wales has

attracted top chefs to the country of late, and now it

twinkles brightly with Michelin stars. From country

manors to revamped coal sheds, these gourmet

restaurants are destinations in their own right, with

chefs delivering menus playing up provenance, bringing

together foraged, locally farmed, fished and garden-

grown ingredients with imagination and panache.

As of 2024, Wales

has six Miche-

lin-starred restau-

rants, including

the country's

first-ever

two-Michelin-

starred restaurant

(Ynyshir).

Four restaurants

in Wales have a

green Michelin

star for their

sustainable ethos,

including the

Whitebrook and

Annwn.

KERRY

WALKER/LONELY

PLANET

©

Best Dining

Experiences

u Feast at two-

Michelin-starred

Ynyshir near

Machynlleth.

(pictured; p202)

u Sample foraged

finds at the

Whitebrook in Wye

Valley. (p85)

Taste Pembroke-

shire on a plate at

Annwn. (p162)

u Admire Welsh

flavours at Beach

House on Oxwich

Bay. (p123)

18

SPACE,

MAN

There's so much space in Wales. Nowhere in

Britain are the night skies darker than in the wildest,

remotest corners of this country. On clear, moonless

nights, go out with binoculars or a telescope to look up

to skies glittered with stars, meteor showers, comets,

nebulae and distant galaxies. Wales might seem little

on paper, but it feels a whole lot bigger when it's just

you and the universe.

Wales has the

world’s highest

percentage of ter-

ritory (18%) with

International Dark

Sky Association

status.

The country has

three Interna-

tional Dark Sky

Places, a new

International Dark

Sky Sanctuary

and two Interna-

tional Dark Sky

Reserves.

Best Stargazing

Experiences

u Marvel at nebulas,

constellations and

shooting stars in

Pembrokeshire Coast

National Park. (p166)

u See stars sparkle

above castles and

abbeys in Brecon

Beacons Dark Sky

Reserve. (p88)

u Try astro-

photography at the

Arch near Devil's

Bridge in the Cam-

brian Mountains.

(pictured; p191)

MATT_GIBSON/GETTY

IMAGES

©

LEFT:

ROGERMECHAN/SHUTTERSTOCK

©,

BOTTOM:

TRAVELLIGHT/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

19

ROAD TRIPS

& RIDES

Above left View of Worm's

Head (p127), the Gower Left

Pontcysyllte Aqueduct (p225)

Whether you're

driving a cliff-hugging

road, negotiating a sky-

high mountain pass,

riding a train through the

moors or gliding along a

canal on a narrowboat,

journeys in Wales fire every

imagination. With all the

single-tracks, reversing and

stray sheep, you won't be

going anywhere in a hurry.

But with scenery like this,

why rush?

Ú DON'T MISS

UNESCO-listed Pontcysyllte

Aqueduct (p225) soars above

Llangollen Canal. Built by

Thomas Telford in 1805, the

world's highest canal aqueduct

is an 18-arched engineering

masterpiece.

 DEVILISH DRIVE

The Gospel Pass is

higher, but scarier still

is the Devil's Staircase

(p190) from Llyn

Brianne, a roller-coaster

drive with an average

gradient of 9.3%.

WALES

BEST

EXPERIENCES

Best Journey

Experiences

u Admire moors,

abbeys and Gospel

Pass in the Vale of

Ewyas. (p106)

u Swoon over the

fjord-like Llyn Brianne

Reservoir. (p138)

u Narrowboat along

Llangollen Canal.

(p224)

u Trundle along the

Heart of Wales Line.

(p200)

u Pedal past beaches

and shipwrecks on

the Gower. (p128)

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Isle of

Anglesey

Gower

Peninsula

Llŷn

Peninsula

Cambrian

Mountains

Atlantic

Ocean

St Brides

Bay

Carmarthen

Bay

Cardigan

Bay

Caernarfon

Bay

Bristol

Channel

Pembrokeshire

Coast

National Park

Pembroke

Haverfordwest

Fishguard

Beaumaris

Porthmadog

Pwllheli

Tenby

Milford

Haven

Swansea

Aberystwyth

Holyhead

Carmarthen

Llanelli

Caernarfon

Cardigan

Bangor

Blaenau

Ffestiniog

Kilgetty

Fairbourne

@

@ Ő

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Aberystwyth

Temple of books

The hilltop National Library of

Wales is a marvel, heaving with

millions of rare and precious

books and manuscripts, among

them the 13th-century Black Book

of Carmarthen, the oldest existing

Welsh-language text, and one of

Chaucer's manuscripts penned by

his scribe, Adam Pinkhurst.

ŉ 1¾hr from Shrewsbury u p180

Swansea

Dylan Thomas' stomping ground

Poet and writer Dylan Thomas (1914–

53) captured the spirit of Wales with a

sensitive, lyrical hand. A spin through

Swansea should tick off his Edward-

ian-era birthplace (now an evocative

museum), the pub where he enjoyed his

first pint, and the park that informed his

early childhood memories.

ŉ 55min from Cardiff u p118

20

LITERARY

LEGENDS

With its impenetrable woods, castle-topped

hills, mist-laced mountains and wave-thrashed

shores, Wales looks freshly minted for a romantic

novel or bedtime story. So it's no wonder the country

has provided fodder for writers: from Lewis Carroll

and Roald Dahl fairy tales to Tolkien's Hobbit

fantasies and Dylan Thomas' poetry.

WALES

BEST

EXPERIENCES

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E N G L A N D

Snowdonia

(Eryri)

National Park

Brecon Beacons

(Bannau Brycheiniog)

National Park

Hay-on-Wye

Crickhowell

Prestatyn

Brecon

Monmouth

Porthcawl

Abergavenny

Rhyl

Talgarth

Pontypridd

Caerphilly

Llandrindod

Wells

Bridgend

Llandudno

Dolgellau

Llanidloes

Newtown

Port

Talbot

Merthyr

Tydfil

Chester

Birmingham

Hereford

CARDIFF

Shrewsbury

Bristol

Newport

Chepstow

Pontypool

Aberdare

Staunton

on Wye

Rhandirmwyn

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25 miles

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## ## ## #

Hay-on-Wye

Literaryheaven

Spend hours flicking through Brit-

ain's best independent bookshops

for secondhand tomes in this

handsome town on the banks of the

River Wye. Fizzing with literary tal-

ent, summer's Hay Festival is a feast

of readings, recitals, performance

and pop-up events. Book ahead as

tickets are gold dust.

ń 25min from Brecon u p98

Cardiff

Roald Dahl's childhood haunts

Dip into the life of children's writer Roald Dahl,

in the city where he spent his early life – from

Cardiff Bay's Norwegian Church (where he was

baptised) to Llandaff, where his sweetshop

pranks inspired The Great Mouse Plot.

ŉ 55min from Swansea u p69

Crickhowell

Tolkien's Middle Earth

Biscuit-tin pretty Crickhowell on the banks of

the Usk grabbed the imagination of Tolkien,

who holidayed in the Brecon Beacons (Ban-

nau Brycheiniog) in the 1940s. Word has it the

village and hedgerow-checked hills inspired

Crickhollow and the Shire in The Hobbit and

The Lord of the Rings.

Ň 12min from Abergavenny u p100

Llandudno

Alice's Victorian wonderland

With its promenade, pier and Britain’s oldest Punch and Judy show,

Llandudno is a blast of Victorian fun. Alice Liddell, the girl whose

adventures inspired Lewis Carroll’s Alice in Wonderland, holidayed

here. The queen of Welsh resorts features numerous references to

Alice and historic buildings with ties to the real-life Alice.

ŉ 65min from Chester u p220

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: DYLAN THOMAS STATUE, SCULPTOR: JOHN DOUBLEDAY.

TONY BAGGETT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ALEXEY SEAFARER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ROGERMECHAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

22

GREEN

ESCAPE

Wales has never been cleaner and

greener, as the country redoubles its

efforts to keep its mountains, coastline

and lush valleys pristine for future gener-

ations. From eco-aware B&Bs to off-grid

glamping, field-to-fork restaurants to

sustainable seafood, low-impact outdoor

adventures to rewilding projects, and

EV charging points to renewable energy,

sustainability is the watchword in an

increasingly nature-focused, conserva-

tion-driven Wales.

Wales is aiming

for net zero

carbon emissions

by 2050.

There are 1000

EV charging

points in Wales,

one for every six

electric vehicles.

Wales generates

50% of its energy

from renewables.

Anglesey is the

UK's first county

to be plastic-free.

WALES

BEST

EXPERIENCES

GEOGRAPHY

PHOTOS/GETTY

IMAGES

©

RIGHT:

KERRY

WALKER/LONELY

PLANET

©

LEFT:

KEITH

MORRIS/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

23

Left Outdoor hot tub, Ceredigion

(194) Right Vegetable-oil-powered

bus, Pembrokeshire Below Lunch

main, Grub Kitchen (p159)

ECO ACCOMMODATION

From yurts to treehouses, hand-built log cabins to coastal

shepherds' huts, you'll find eco escapes all over Wales.

Look for the Green Key label denoting sustainability.

Û MUST TRY

Find out why bugs are the future and tuck into edible

insects at the Bug Farm and Grub Kitchen (p159) in

St Davids.

Ú GREEN TRANSPORT

Much of Wales is remote,

but many regions and

towns (from Machynlleth

to coastal Pembroke-

shire) now have a good

bus service, making car-

free travel an option.

WALES

BEST

EXPERIENCES

Best Eco Experiences

u Take the carbon-neutral jump

with TYF in St Davids, kayaking,

surfing or coasteering. (p159)

u Find edible plants and fungi

on a zero-food-miles foraging

walk in the Brecon Beacons.

(p84)

u Find your green groove in

eco-capital Machynlleth and

explore the biosphere. (p188)

u Wander wetlands and dunes

at the UNESCO Dyfi Biosphere

Reserve. (p189)

u Roam the wild, woody, river-

woven parks of Cardiff. (p56)

 Cheese, Medieval

Re-enactments & More...

The Big Cheese Festival in

July is a three-day, activity-

packed food festival held in

Caerphilly Castle.

 bigcheesecaerphilly.co.uk

24

SUMMER

Average daytime max: 18°C

Days of rainfall: 8

Wales in

 Agricultural Antics

Every July the Royal Welsh

Show brings livestock

competitions, activities,

entertainment and

attractions to Powys.

Builth Wells, p199

 rwas. wales

Beaches and coves along

the Wales Coast Path are

beautiful in summer. The sea

is noticeably warmer.

 walescoastpath.gov.uk

The hottest Welsh summer temperature since

records began was 37.1°C recorded at Hawarden

Airport (18 July 2022), beating the previous record

of 35.2°C in Flintshire (August 1990). Hydrate,

wear sunscreen and stay in shade.

JUNE

JULY

WALES

PLAN

BY

SEASON

25

Average daytime max: 19°C

Days of rainfall: 8

Average daytime max: 19°C

Days of rainfall: 8

Demand for accommodation peaks

during summer. Book tours and

overnight adventures in advance.

 lonelyplanet.com/wales

 Take Pride

Wales' largest

annual celebration

of LGBTIQ+, equality

and diversity – Pride

Cymru – happens

every August in

Cardiff.

 pridecymru.com

 Dance with

the Green Man

The Brecon

Beacons hosts

the Green Man

Festival of music,

science and arts

every August.

Crickhowell, p101

 greenman.net

AUGUST

WALES

PLAN

BY

SEASON

 Celebrate Wales'

Culture & Language

The National Eisteddfod, in

August, is an annual week-long

festival of Welsh music, poetry

and performance.

 p186

 eisteddfod.wales

FROM LEFT: CERI BREEZE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, BILLY STOCK/

ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, JAX10289/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

ANDREAS ZERNDL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, MATTHEW HORWOOD/

ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, MAIN IMAGE: BILLY STOCK/

SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Packing notes

Sun and rain cause

humid conditions;

pack a hat, sunscreen,

cool clothing and

waterproofs.

Celebrate LGBTQ+ Films

October's Iris Prize Festival champions

LGBTQ+ short films, features and filmmak-

ers through friendly events and screenings.

 irisprize.org

26

AUTUMN

Average daytime max: 17°C

Days of rainfall: 9

Wales in

SEPTEMBER

OCTOBER

 Mountain Marathon

Watch or run the annual

Marathon Eryri in October.

The spectacular route

encircles Yr Wyddfa

(Snowdon).

 snowdoniamarathon.co.uk

September can be warm

and sunny, but October

and November are typically

damp and dark.

 Tuck In

Abergavenny Food

Festival is one of Wales'

best culinary events, taking

place on the third weekend

in September.

Abergavenny, p104

 abergavennyfoodfestival.com

WALES

PLAN

BY

SEASON

Packing notes

Bring a sunhat and

sunscreen as well

as thin layers and

waterproofs; autumn

is unpredictable.

FROM LEFT: DREW MCARTHUR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

BARRY GREENWOOD - PA IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES ©, MIKE LEWIS PHOTOGRAPHY/

GETTY IMAGES ©, ANDREW CHISHOLM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, NICKY RHODES/

SHUTTERSTOCK ©, MAIN IMAGE: EDDIECLOUD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

27

Average daytime max: 14°C

Days of rainfall: 11

Average daytime max: 10°C

Days of rainfall: 12

NOVEMBER

WALES

PLAN

BY

SEASON

 Grassroots Gigs

Sŵn, a multi-venue music

festival, takes over Cardiff's

Womanby St every October.

Cardiff, p54

 swnfest.com

 Complimentary Castles

Cadw's Open Doors weekend event (September/

October) lets people access certain Welsh

historical and heritage sites for free.

 cadw.gov.wales

 Fabulous Fireworks

Bonfire Night is celebrated

on 5 November with bonfires

and firework displays across

the country.

28

WINTER

Average daytime max: 8°C

Days of rainfall: 12

Wales in

DECEMBER

JANUARY

 Mari Llwyd

A strange, post-Christmas

tradition where revellers

take a macabre horse

puppet around the town,

singing in exchange for

entry, food and drink.

Calennig

A traditional New Year custom. Children

knock on doors while singing festive

rhymes in exchange for small gifts.

Shorter, darker days lend

themselves to indoor

activities and cosy fireside

nights in pubs.

 A Day for Lovers

St Dwynwen's Day,

25 January, is Wales' equiva-

lent of Valentine's Day. Gifts

are given to loved ones.

WALES

PLAN

BY

SEASON

Packing notes

Embrace cold

temperatures and rain

with waterproof outer

layers, sturdy boots

and cosy jumpers.

29

Average daytime max: 7°C

Days of rainfall: 12

Average daytime max: 7°C

Days of rainfall: 9

FEBRUARY

WALES

PLAN

BY

SEASON

Wrap up. The coldest

winter temperature in

Wales since records

began was –23.3°C in

Powys (January 1940).

 Frozen Waterfalls

See waterfalls partially fro-

zen, forming icicles, in the

Brecon Beacons (Bannau

Brycheiniog). Take care on

icy paths.

 Six Nations Rugby

This annual international rugby

championship runs from early

February for seven weeks. The

population follows it closely.

 sixnationsrugby.com

Welsh Language

Music Day

Dydd Miwsig Cymru (early

February) is a day celebrating

Welsh language music. Enjoy

pop-up gigs across the country.

FROM LEFT: JEFF MORGAN 05/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©,

NACHO MENA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

KAI WILLIAM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, MARCOKENYA/SHUTTERSTOCK

©, MAIN IMAGE: KATESTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

30

SPRING

Average daytime max: 9°C

Days of rainfall: 9

Wales in

MARCH

APRIL

 Bookworms, Assemble!

Two literature and arts festivals

typically occur in spring: Laugharne

Weekend (March/April) and Hay

Festival (May/June).

Laugharne, p119; Hay-on-Wye, p98

 thelaugharneweekend.com;

hayfestival.com

 Lots of Laughs

Machynlleth Comedy Festival

brings a weekend of stand-up

comedy to Mid-Wales in

April/May.

 machcomedyfest.co.uk

St David's Day, on 1 March, is

a celebration of Wales' patron

saint. Daffodils are worn and

festivities are held.

Spring sunshine blesses forests,

fields and coastlines with colourful

flora and fauna, from pink blossom

to bright white baby lambs.

WALES

PLAN

BY

SEASON

Packing notes

The changeable

weather calls for light

layers, a waterproof

jacket and a sunhat.

31

Average daytime max: 12°C

Days of rainfall: 8

Average daytime max: 15°C

Days of rainfall: 8

MAY

WALES

PLAN

BY

SEASON

 UK's Biggest

Art Prize

Every other May, the

Artes Mundi art prize is

awarded to a contemporary

artist, accompanied by an

exhibition in Cardiff.

 artesmundi.org

If you can, avoid the Easter break and

May bank holidays. Their popularity

with staycationers increases prices

and crowds.

 Victoriana Parades Near the Pier

Llandudno Victorian Extravaganza

(May Day Bank Holiday) sees the sea-

side town Llandudno transformed into a

celebration of local Victorian heritage.

Llandudno, p220

 victorian-extravaganza.com

May is a good time to hike in

Snowdonia National Park. The

weather is relatively kind and

crowds are reduced.

FROM LEFT: MATTHEW HORWOOD/GETTY IMAGES ©, KEITH MORRIS/ ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©,

ARTWORK: INSTALLATION IN PROGRESS, WORK BY CARRIE MAE WEEMS FOR ARTES MUNDI 9,

2021 ©, JAMES CLARKE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, MAIN IMAGE: LARA RED/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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P E M B R O K E S H I R E

St Brides

Bay

Cardigan

Bay

Atlantic

Ocean

Daugleddau

Pembrokeshire

Coast

National

Park

St Davids

Porthgain

Pembroke

Haverfordwest

Milford

Haven

Fishguard

Cardigan

Tenby

Kilgetty

6

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0

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e

St Davids

Scramble over rocks and

dive into open waters with

a coasteering session at

St Davids – best followed

by a feast foraged from

the land and sea.

ń 15min from Fishguard

Porthgain

Sample the catch of the day,

shop local art or walk along

the clifftops from the old

quarry above the hamlet.

ń 15min from St Davids

32

Lose yourself on trips to

incredible beaches, clifftops, sky-

kissing mountains, brushed moors,

remote valleys and meandering

canal paths – all fuelled by gourmet

food foraged from within the

counties. Seabirds and wildlife are

never far away!

BRECON

BEACONS &

SOUTHWEST

WALES

Trip Builder

TAKE YOUR PICK OF MUST-SEES

AND HIDDEN GEMS

Trip Notes

Hub towns Haverfordwest, St Davids,

Fishguard, Hay-on-Wye, Brecon,

Abergavenny

How long Allow 1–2 weeks

Getting around For remote areas, travel

by hire car or taxi. There are good coastal

bus services in summer.

Tips Visit in spring or early autumn to

avoid crowds (during July and August,

beaches and amenities are packed). Take

care on the narrow country roads; use

passing spots to give way, and keep your

speed down.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: PHIL HARLAND/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

ANDREAC77/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, PAUL MAGUIRE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

WALES

BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

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P O W Y S

C E R E D I G I O N

E N G L A N D

E N G L A N D

Gower

Peninsula

Carmarthen

Bay

Bristol

Channel

Brecon Beacons

(Bannau Brycheiniog)

National Park

Libanus

Hay-

on-Wye

Brecon

Abergavenny

Talgarth

Aberdare

Caerphilly

Swansea

Llanidloes

Aberystwyth

Newtown

CARDIFF

Llandovery

Merthyr

Tydfil

Port

Talbot

Mumbles

Staunton

on Wye

6

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Ģ

E

v

q

Đ

Y ĥ

Pen-y-Fan

Climb the tallest peak in the

Brecon Beacons, 886m above

sea level. The summit offers

views of the surrounding Black

Mountains, Gower Peninsula,

South Wales valleys and more.

ń 15min from Brecon

Libanus

Begin your stargazing

extravaganza by visiting

the small village of

Libanus, home to the

visitor centre for the

Dark Sky Reserve.

ń 10min from Brecon

Brecon

Stroll along the sun-dappled

canal of this cathedral-topped

town, nestled among the highest

peaks of the Brecon Beacons. Red

kites and buzzards soar overhead.

ń 1hr from Cardiff

Dinas Head

Spot wildflowers, coastal

birds and awe-inspiring views

along the rugged land of this

promontory, which is partially

detached from the mainland.

ń 15min from Fishguard

Abergavenny

Tuck into culinary delights

in this foodie market town.

Its September food festival

is a town-wide feast for the

senses, but there's something

tasty whenever you visit.

ŉ 40min from Cardiff

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C A R M A R T H E N S H I R E

C E R E D I G I O N

Carmarthen

Bay

Burry

Inlet

Mumbles

Swansea

Carmarthen

Llandeilo

Llanelli

Pontarddulais

ħ

Ņ

E

ĥ

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ħ

Đ

Gower Peninsula

Admire the gem in Swansea Bay's

crown. It's a much-deserved Area

of Outstanding Natural Beauty, with

diverse ecology, dramatic cliffs,

golden beaches and breezy moorland.

ń 30min from Swansea

Carmarthen

Explore the cute towns and

villages of Carmarthenshire from

its county town, an ideal base for

finding pristine beaches, locally

sourced food, historic fortresses

and walks galore.

ń 40min from Swansea

34

Busy, diverse and never dull,

the southern half of Wales is the

most densely populated part of the

country. It's no concrete jungle,

though; culture-filled cities, smart

market towns and picturesque

villages are separated by gorgeous

countryside and coastlines ripe for

exploration.

SOUTH

WALES

Trip Builder

TAKE YOUR PICK OF MUST-SEES

AND HIDDEN GEMS

Trip Notes

Hub towns Cardiff, Swansea

How long Allow 10 days

Getting around Public transport links

are good, but travelling by car is the

easiest, quickest option – and a necessity

in rural areas.

Tips Late spring, summer and early

autumn are busiest (the sun brings out

the crowds). That said, this is the time to

see these places at their best.

CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT: BILLY STOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, JAMES

HIME/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, MURATART/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, CERI BREEZE/

SHUTTERSTOCK ©

WALES

BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

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V A L E O F

G L A M O R G A N

P O W Y S

T O R F A E N

E N G L A N D

E N G L A N D

Severn

Estuary

Bristol

Channel

Brecon Beacons

(Bannau Brycheiniog)

National Park

Libanus

Cowbridge

Penarth

Neath

Caerphilly

Bridgend

Port

Talbot

Hereford

CARDIFF

Newport

Pontypool

Abercraf

Staunton

on Wye

6

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` 6

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0

10 miles

e

Swansea

Visit the second-largest

city in Wales, known for

its juxtaposition of urban

living and coastal serenity.

The beaches are as long

as the nights out are big.

ń 1hr from Cardiff

Cardiff

Prepare for culture, heritage and

tasty treats in Wales' capital city.

Resting on the River Taff, Cardiff

offers multicultural, cosmopolitan

modernity interspersed with nature.

ń 30min from Cardiff Airport

Cardiff Bay

Marvel at what was

one of the largest dock

systems in the world

and the culturally rich

waterfront beauty spot

it has since become.

ŉ 5min from Cardiff

Cowbridge

Wine and dine in this quaint market

town, known for its high-end boutiques,

independent eateries and the colourful

mosaic of agricultural land surrounding it.

ń 30min from Cardiff

Penarth

Cross the Cardiff border into the

Vale of Glamorgan to reach Penarth,

an elegant coastal town with a

Victorian pier, a long esplanade, a

boat-filled marina and green parks.

ŉ 10min from Cardiff

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Ynys Enlli

(Bardsey Island)

Holy

Island

Llŷn

Peninsula

Holyhead

Bay

Caernarfon

Bay

Atlantic

Ocean

Abersoch

Nefyn

Rhosneigr

Aberdaron

Holyhead

Ő

E

Ē

0

20 km

0

10 miles

e

Llanberis

Walk up Wales' highest

peak, Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon),

from this hikers' paradise.

The lakeside village on

the southern bank of Llyn

Padarn offers bountiful

walking routes around the

slate-laced region.

ń 20min from Caernarfon

Aberdaron

Make like untold pilgrims before

you by visiting the nearby head-

land of Braich y Pwll and Ynys Enlli

(Bardsey Island) – the purported

burial place of 20,000 saints.

ń 1¼hr from Harlech

36

People have flocked to North

Wales seeking adventures for

centuries – whether that's scaling

mountains with unforgettable

views, seaside rambles along endless

beaches or exploring fortresses once

fit for monarchy. Find an adventure

to remember here.

NORTH

WALES

Trip Builder

TAKE YOUR PICK OF MUST-SEES

AND HIDDEN GEMS

Trip Notes

Hub towns Llandudno, Harlech, Bangor,

Conwy

How long Allow 10–12 days

Getting around Trains connect major

towns and cities, but remote areas will

require a car. If you're feeling fit, there are

lots of walking trails.

Tips April, May, September and October

can bring some of the best weather and

smallest crowds. If you're visiting multiple

castles, consider getting a Cadw explorer

pass (cadw.gov.wales).

FROM LEFT: BBA PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

CHARLESY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, LUKASSEK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

WALES

BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

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G W Y N E D D

P O W Y S

D E N B I G H S H I R E

I S L E O F

A N G L E S E Y

C E R E D I G I O N

C O N W Y

Puffin

Island

Cardigan

Bay

Irish

Sea

Tremadog

Bay

Snowdonia (Eryri)

National Park

Clwydian

Range

Y Felinheli

Dinas

Corwen

Denbigh

Conwy

Llangefni

Barmouth

Bethesda

Llanfair

Caereinion

Ruthin

Tywyn

Corris

St Asaph

Capel

Curig

Rhyd-Ddu

Llanberis

Machynlleth

Harlech

Talsarnau

Beddgelert

Trefor

Aberdyfi

Llan

Ffestiniog

Beaumaris

Porthmadog

Pwllheli

Blaenau

Ffestiniog

Caernarfon

Llandudno

Dolgellau

Colwyn

Bay

Newtown

Bangor

ħ

Q

E

ħ

ē

Q

v Ģ

ĥ

E ħ

ĩ

Q

Ĥ

Llandudno

Unleash your inner child at one of

Britain's best-preserved Victorian

seaside resorts. It's a magical

muddle of sea, spectacular

scenery and storytelling, with

plenty of opportunities to play.

ń 15min from Conwy

Conwy

Be embraced by the fine

medieval town walls of

Conwy, whose monumental

castle forms part of North

Wales' UNESCO World

Heritage site.

ń 30min from Caernarfon

Aberdyfi

Walk along the 5 miles

of glorious sand that

stretch from this

village's centre to the

mouth of the River Dyfi.

ŉ 1hr from Harlech

Harlech

Feel like a giant watching over

the land below from magnificent

Harlech Castle. It overlooks the

town's 4-mile beach and offers

epic views over Snowdonia (Eryri).

ń 45min from Caernarfon

Caernarfon

Board the mountain steam

train to this famous castle

town, home to Caernarfon

Castle – one of the greatest

buildings from the Middle Ages.

Ň 30min from Bangor

#

#

#

#

I R E L A N D

Atlantic

Ocean

St Brides

Bay

Pembrokeshire

Coast

National

Park

Pembroke

Haverfordwest

Fishguard

Milford

Haven

Abereiddy ĥ

ħ

Ķ

Ynys Llandwyn

Swoon for one of the most

romantic places in Wales: a tidal

island with ancient associations

with St Dwynwen, the Welsh

patron saint of lovers.

ń 40min from Bangor

Aberystwyth

Ride the Cliff Railway or

walk up Constitution Hill for

far-reaching views over the

coastal university town, its

promenade, pier and the sea.

ń 2¼hr from Bangor

Abereiddy

See nature, history and time

collide in this small hamlet

featuring a turquoise, sea-filled

former slate quarry, ruined

cottages and slate-dappled sand.

ń 15min from St Davids

38

Discover special towns,

villages and coastal spots. Expect

gorgeous vistas over the sea,

adorable towns with pretty,

labyrinthine streets, postcard-worthy

mountain lakes, roads through

secluded valleys and one-of-a-kind

seaside resorts and beaches.

WALES-WIDE

ADVENTURE

Trip Builder

TAKE YOUR PICK OF MUST-SEES

AND HIDDEN GEMS

Trip Notes

Hub towns Swansea, Brecon, Bangor

How long Allow 10–12 days

Getting around Driving is the easiest way

to traverse the country. Trains connect

major towns and cities, but remote areas

will require a car.

Tips Late spring, summer and early

autumn have the best weather. Seaside

locations are busiest when the sun is out.

FROM LEFT: MILOSZ MASLANKA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

BBA PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

WALES

BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

_

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

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#

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#

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#

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#

#

#

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E N G L A N D

Ynys Enll

(Bardsey Island)

Holy

Island

Isle of

Anglesey

Gower

Peninsula

Llŷn

Peninsula

Cambrian

Mountains

Cardigan

Bay

Caernarfon

Bay

Bristol

Channel

Carmarthen

Bay

Snowdonia (Eryri)

National Park

Brecon Beacons

(Bannau Brycheiniog)

National Park

Portmeirion

Hay-on-

Wye

Brecon

Beaumaris

Porthcawl

Abergavenny

Porthmadog

Rhyl

Pwllheli

Talgarth

Pontypridd

Aberdare

Penarth

Pontypool

Caerphilly

Blaenau

Ffestiniog

Tenby

Bridgend

Dolgellau

Swansea

Holyhead

Welshpool

Carmarthen

Colwyn

Bay

Aberystwyth

Barry

Port

Talbot

Llanelli

Merthyr

Tydfil

Caernarfon

Cardigan

Newport

Llandudno

Bangor

Shrewsbury

CARDIFF

Birkenhead

Rhandirmwyn

ħ Ē

E Ģ

ħ

E

ġ

0

50 km

0

25 miles

@

` İ

ć E

F G E

Ĥ

F

e

Vale of Ewyas

Drive through the

secluded valley of the

River Honddu. Its steep,

untouched sides hug the

atmospheric road through

the Black Mountains.

ń 15min from

Abergavenny

Portmeirion

Admire the artisanship

and ambition that went

into building this stunning

Italianate village, perched

above the estuary of the

River Dwyryd.

ń 1hr from Bangor

Tenby

Wander narrow streets, visiting

ice-cream parlours and eateries in

this show-stopping seaside town,

complete with three beaches and

visitable islands nearby.

ń 1¼hr from Swansea

Llyn-y-Fan Fach

Scale the lake-anointed

mountain of myth in the

westerly part of the Brecon

Beacons. See if you can find

the legendary Lady of the Lake.

ń 1hr from Brecon

Hay-on-Wye

Peruse shelf upon shelf of

secondhand books in this culturally

progressive literary town. Hay

Festival, the ultimate bookworm

event, is held every May.

ń 30min from Brecon

GOPFASTER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, WEREDRAGON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

GREENS87/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, ZUPERIA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

YAGNIK GORASIYA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

3

Tourist Info

Need more local

advice, maps, booking

help or inspiration?

Many regions have their

own 'Visit x' website (eg

visitpembrokeshire.com).

Tourist information centres

are also available.

Things to Know About

7

40

WALES

INSIDER TIPS TO HIT THE GROUND RUNNING

1

Pack for All Weather

Wales' weather is infamously changeable all year round

throughout the country. Look at the 24-hour forecast before

heading out for the day. Check booked activities, transport

and attractions if the weather turns bad, as they may be

cancelled. Whatever

the season, bring a

waterproof jacket, thin

layers and mud-proof

shoes, as well as

swimwear, a

sun hat and

sunscreen.

WALES LOCAL

TIPS

4

Rural

Restrictions

Mobile signal and wi-fi are

unreliable in rural areas.

Download anything you

might need for your trip

(tickets, maps, directions)

ahead of time. If need be,

use public wi-fi in a library

or coffee shop.

2

Plan by

Region

While Wales is a

relatively small

country, it can

take plenty of

time to travel

from one

corner to the next.

To save petrol

and time,

decide

what you

want to see

in each region and then

plan the most suitable

route around the points

of interest. Taking in

the country one region

at a time will give you

the best chance to

experience everything

you want to.

41

WALES

LOCAL

TIPS

5

Cymraeg Pride

The Welsh

Government is putting

serious effort into ensuring

Cymraeg, the UK's oldest

language, thrives. They’ve

set an ambitious goal to get

one million Welsh speakers

by 2050. Wales' national

parks also reclaimed their

Welsh names in 2023 to

promote and conserve

cultural heritage. Brecon

Beacons is now Bannau

Brycheiniog, and Snowdonia

is officially Eryri.

6

Local Lingo

You can get by in Wales without speaking a word

of Welsh. It's helpful to have some knowledge of the

local English-language vernacular, though, including a

familiarity with some of Wales' more unusual phrases.

Alright? Hello, how are you?

Boy, Butt, Miss, Mun, Mush Terms of endearment

(note that mush is pronounced to rhyme with 'bush')

Cwtch A cosy, tight cuddle (pronounced to rhyme with

'butch')

Half and half Seen on menus, meaning half a portion

of chips and half a portion of rice

Hanging, buzzing, humming Not nice, disgusting.

Can be used to describe a place, a thing, or feeling ill or

hungover

Kecks Trousers

Lush Beautiful, incredibly nice

Now, in a minute Some time soon,

more likely in five to 10 minutes

than one

Ta-ra Goodbye

Tidy Really good

Where to is...? Where can I find...?

 For some basic Welsh phrases,

see the Language chapter on p252

7

Avoid an Identity Crisis

Although part of the United Kingdom,

Wales is not part of England; they are

separate countries. Welsh people are

very patriotic and protective of their

identity, sometimes even defensive

about not being English. To

keep the peace, try not to

confuse the two places.

42

WALES GET

INSPIRED

t

LISTEN

R

READ

These Poor

Hands (BL

Coombes;

1939) Honest

autobiography of a

South Wales miner.

The Fortune Men

(Nadifa Mohamed;

2021) Fictionalised

account of a Somali

seaman wrongfully

executed for murder

in Wales.

On the Black

Hill (Bruce

Chatwin; 1982)

Novel about

identical twin

brothers in rural

Wales.

The Mabinogion

(Anon; medieval –

modern translations

available) Welsh

tales of mythology,

folklore and legends.

Under Milk Wood

(Dylan Thomas;

1954) Radio drama

about a fictional

Welsh fishing village,

read by Richard

Burton.

Bato Mato

(Adwaith; 2022)

This Welsh-

language, post-punk

female trio were the

first band to win the

Welsh Music Prize

twice.

Shreds: Murder

in the Dock (Ceri

Dawn Jackson, BBC;

2019) Cardiff-based

true-crime podcast

about murder and

miscarriage of

justice.

Scopophobia

(GG Fearn; 2024)

Dark Celtic pop

soundtrack to

Welsh horror film

Scopophobia.

Read, Listen,

Watch & Follow

National Treasures – The Complete

Singles (Manic Street Preachers, 2011)

Compilation of the anthemic Welsh rock

band’s singles from 1990 to 2011.

SHIRLAINE

FORREST/GETTY

IMAGES

©

43

T

FOLLOW

WALES

GET

INSPIRED

V

WATCH

Gavin and Stacey (2007–2024; pictured

right) Sitcom about a couple in a long-

distance relationship between England and

Wales.

Keeping Faith (2017–20) Bilingual thriller

about a small-town Welsh lawyer whose

husband goes missing.

Doctor Who (2005–) Sci-fi drama about an

adventuring, time-travelling doctor. Many

scenes filmed in Wales.

Pride (2014; pictured right) LGBTIQ+

Londoners aid the 1984 Welsh coal-miners’

strike in this film based on a true story.

Wolf (2023) Crime thriller set in

Monmouthshire starring homegrown talent.

Official Visit Wales

account.

@visitwales

Curated account

sharing photos of

wild Wales.

@discovercymru

Cultural listings,

reviews and news.

@BuzzMagWales

Official feed of

Football Association

of Wales.

@FAWales

Website and podcast

showcasing the best

of North Wales.

Go North Wales

COLLECTION

CHRISTOPHEL/

ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

CINEMATIC

COLLECTION/

ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

CARDIFF

CITY LIFE | CULTURE | FOOD

u Trip Builder (p46)

u Practicalities (p48)

u Multicultural

Marvels (p50)

u Markets &

Makers (p52)

u Womanby Street (p54)

u Capital Green

Zones (p56)

u Cardiff's Statues &

Sculptures (p60)

u Castle to Castle (p62)

u A Country of

Castles (p64)

u Wales on a Plate (p66)

u Cardiff Bay:

Then & Now (p68)

u Coastal Escapes (p70)

u Don't Leave Cardiff

Without... (p74)

u Listings (p76)

MILLENNIUM

CENTRE,

ARCHITECT:

JONATHAN

ADAMS,

MIN

JING/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

ē

ē

C A N T O N

G R A N G E T O W N

P O N T C A N N A

R I V E R S I D E

N I N I A N

P A R K

Riv

er

Taf

f

Sophia

Gardens

Pontcanna

Fields

Bute

Park

NinianPark

TrainStation

Grangetown

Train

Station

Q

Ő

ġ

ĥ F ħ

ņ

6

Ą

D

Glamorgan Heritage

Coast (13mi)

46

Soak in the dramatic clifftop

views along the Glamorgan

Heritage Coast (p70)

ń 45min from Cardiff Central

Feast on the multicultural glory

of Canton and Pontcanna (p50)

Ň 15min from Cardiff Central

Get a taste of Cymru cool at Wales' capital

city and the nearby coast in a style that suits you,

whether by meandering on foot around cultural

landmarks, biking down traffic-free, tree-lined paths

or paddleboarding around a contemporary marina.

CARDIFF

Trip Builder

Ride a bike around

the city's green lungs:

Bute Park (p57)

Ġ 10min from Cardiff

Central

CARDIFF BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

ē

ē

ē

ē

A D A M S D O W N

B U T E T O W N

S P L O T T

Cardiff

Bay

Roath

Basin

Roath

Dock

A

tl

a

n

ti

c

W

h

a

r

f

Alexandra

Gardens

Gorsedd

Gardens

Cardiff Bay

TrainStation

Cathays

TrainStation

Cardiff

QueenStreet

TrainStation

Cardiff

Central

Train

Station

A

`

Ł

`

3

D

Cardiff International

White Water (1.1mi)

0

500 m

0

0.25 miles

e

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: BETH DODDRIDGE/GETTY IMAGES ©, BILLY STOCK/

SHUTTERSTOCK ©, MILLENNIUM CENTRE, ARCHITECT: JONATHAN ADAMS,

SHAUN JEFFERS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Find one-of-a-kind treasures

while shopping in Victorian

arcades (p52)

Ġ 10min from Cardiff Central

Watch a world-class

performance at Wales

Millennium Centre (p69)

Ġ 5min from Cardiff Bay

Lose yourself in the Victorian

gothic splendour of Cardiff

Castle (p62)

Ġ 10min from Cardiff Central

Sample traditional Welsh fare

at Cardiff Market (p67)

Ġ 7min from Cardiff Central

Go white-water rafting in the

city at Cardiff International

White Water (p69)

ń 10min from Cardiff Bay

CERI

BREEZE/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

48

CARDIFF FIND

YOUR

FEET

Bus & train Buses and trains run

regularly across the city and are

relatively cheap. Plan your journey

in advance using the Traveline

Cymru website or app.

Car & taxi Car hire starts from

£35 a day in Cardiff, though driving

and parking can be difficult in the

ever-evolving city centre. Taxis

are more convenient; use Uber or

Dragon Taxis (dragontaxis.com).

Walking & cycling Cardiff is

flat, compact and easy to walk

or cycle around. Use newly built

cycle lanes and paths where

available. Hire standard, adaptive

and e-bikes from Pedal Power

(cardiffpedalpower.org).

GETTING AROUND

Welsh cake

50p

castle entry

£15.50

local craft beer

£6

Practicalities

WHEN TO GO

HOW MUCH

FOR A...

MAR–MAY

Sunny, mild, some

showers. Fairly quiet.

Nature blooms.

SEP–OCT

Milder, autumnal days.

Smaller crowds.

JUN–AUG

The hottest, busiest

period in the city and on

the nearby coast.

NOV–FEB

Cold and rainy. People huddle

in coffee shops. Outdoor

activities limited.

ARRIVING

Cardiff Airport The main airport in Wales and

the closest to Cardiff city centre (roughly 12

miles away). Hire a taxi via the Flight Link desk

in the terminal on arrival; it's a 30-minute

journey that'll cost from £35. Alternatively, take

the 905 shuttle bus to Rhoose Railway Station,

then the train to Cardiff Central Station (totals

around £6, but takes longer).

Cardiff Central Station This central transport

hub provides rail (and in the future, metro

connections) across Cardiff and beyond.

TOP:

BLUE

SKY

IN

MY

POCKET/GETTY

IMAGES

©

BOTTOM:

DAVID

PIMBOROUGH/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

EATING & DRINKING

Pontcanna is carving out a niche as one of Cardiff’s best foodie neigh-

bourhoods, with a strong scene of independent cafes, restaurants

and foodie markets. Try Pipes Brewery for tiny-batch craft beers. For a

traditional taste of Wales, crumbly Welsh cakes are a cheap, tasty treat

in the form of gently sweet, lightly spiced bakestones.

Best coffee

Must-try Welsh cakes

Hard Lines Cafe

Fabulous Welshcakes (p67)

& Roastery (p51)

MONEY

Most places take card payment (some take only

card), but carry cash if you're visiting a market, an

event or a car park. Cardiff's public parks are free to

enter, as are most art exhibitions.

WHERE TO STAY

Cardiff offers both basic and luxury accommodation. Choose whether to

be in the thick of the activity or in a neighbourhood just outside.

CARDIFF PLUSBUS

Buy a Cardiff Plus Bus ticket for

discounted unlimited bus travel

on participating services in Cardiff

and the Vale of Glamorgan within

a set period.

CONNECT & FIND YOUR WAY

Wi-fi Can be accessed free

across the city via Cardiff Free and

Cardiff Street wi-fi. It's also often

available for customers of cafes,

restaurants, venues, shopping

centres and transport services.

Navigation Easy in Cardiff;

there's good signage and people

are willing to give directions. The

main navigation apps are accu-

rate. Download free maps online

(visitcardiff.com).

49

CARDIFF FIND

YOUR

FEET

Neighbourhood

Atmosphere

City Centre

Epicentre. Widest range of options at all

price points. Can be crowded and noisy.

Canton/Pontcanna

Good for culture, parks, independent

eateries. Can be noisy. Run-down in parts.

Cardiff Bay

Trendy. On the waterfront. Many bars and

pre-/post-event restaurants. Overrated.

Roath

Pretty parks, neighbourhood feel, good

shops and eateries. A 30-minute walk from

the city centre.

Penarth

Lovely seaside town with classic charm.

Over the barrage from Cardiff Bay in Vale

of Glamorgan. Linked by train to the city

centre.

I

6

ņ

6

6

6

6

C A N T O N

P O N T C A N N A

Llandaff

Fields

Pontcanna

Fields

L

la

n

d

a

f

f

R

d

Pe

n-

Hi

ll

Rd

C

at

he

dr

al

R

d

Co

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ridg

e

Rd

E

Re

cto

ry

Rd

Springfield

Pl

Glynne

St

S

n

e

y

d

S

t

M

ar

ke

t

R

d

M

or

tim

er

Rd

G

la

m

o

rg

a

n

S

t

Pont

cann

a

St

W

y

n

d

h

a

m

R

d

Se

ve

rn

Rd

Rom

illy

Cr

es

W

y

n

d

h

a

m

C

r

e

s

Co

nw

ay

Rd

K

in

g

s

R

d

Se

ve

rn

Gr

ov

e

P

la

s

t

u

r

t

o

n

A

v

e

Hard Lines

Cafe &

Roastery

Brød

Milkwood

Thomas

Pontcanna

Chapter

Arts Centre

Ffloc

Calabrisella

0

200 m

0

0.1 miles

e

CARDIFF EXPERIENCES

50

A short hop from the city centre

lie the multicultural hubs of Canton and

Pontcanna. They're sometimes grouped

under the one 'Canton' umbrella, but

Welsh-speaking Pontcanna has carved

itself out as the more scrubbed-up

neighbourhood. Both suburbs are proven

launchpads for culinary success, inclusive

creativity and independent business.

Sample this suburban spirit to find the best

food, coffee and small-batch craft beer.

If you come to Canton and

Pontcanna, come hungry –

there are always new eateries

to check out, pop-ups to

taste-test and old favourites

to return to again and again.

The feast on offer harnesses

the best of Welsh produce

and often reflects the multi-

cultural nature of the area;

flavours from near and far

are combined in delicious

fusions, with authentic, far-

flown cooking styles shared

and adopted alongside

traditional kitchen skills.

International options Five

minutes away, Milkwood

brings joy with international-

ly inspired small plates and

brunch dishes made using

locally sourced ingredients,

while Thomas Pontcanna

blurs French and Welsh food

origins into high-end cuisine.

A short hop away in Canton,

Calabrisella offers no-frills,

authentic Italian comfort

with steaming bowls of

handmade pasta and crispy

wood-fired pizzas straight

from the white-hot oven. For

a USA-inspired toastie stop,

How to

Getting here Take a short walk from the city centre

via Castle St or Bute Park. Alternatively, catch a bus

(cardiffbus.com) or grab a taxi. For Pontcanna, head

to Kings Rd. Canton is along and off Cardiff Rd East.

When to go Weekends and match days (at Cardiff

City Stadium or Principality Stadium) are tightly

packed yet atmospheric.

Planning Book ahead and check dress codes (some

places require smart casual; others are very relaxed).

Multicultural

MARVELS

FOOD | CULTURE | COMMUNITY

01

CARDIFF EXPERIENCES

51

BETINA

SKOVBRO

©

Above Brød pastry

Ffloc serves a selection of

crispy-yet-oozy iron-grilled

cheese sandwiches with a

side of warm homemade

marinara dipping sauce.

Order the crispy house-

seasoned fries drenched in

cheese sauce and pickles.

Cafe delights Being an area

with a strong community feel,

it's unsurprising that there

are plenty of great cafes in

Pontcanna and Canton. Two

stand out: Brød (pictured),

a Danish bakery run by a

passionate Dane who wanted

to share homely slices of

hygge, and Hard Lines Cafe

& Roastery, a diner-inspired

coffee shop that turns out

the city's best coffee using

beans from its roastery six

miles north.

3

Chapter Arts

Culture Hub

At the heart of Canton's

reputation as a creative

corner of Cardiff is Chapter

Arts Centre. It's a multi-

purpose arts venue that

opened in a disused Edward-

ian school in 1971. There's a

gallery that runs free exhi-

bitions, from touring shows

to retrospectives to themed

displays. Previous exhibitors

include Rose Wiley, Gary

Hume, Ai Weiwei and Antony

Gormley. There are two

cinemas, one large and one

small. Films tend to be niche

independent releases, but

blockbusters play too. There

are two theatre spaces, too.

All areas lead from the cafe

bar, which is a great place to

people-watch, draw or relax.

CARDIFF EXPERIENCES

Markets &

MAKERS

SHOPPING | MARKETS | FOOD

As the capital city of a country that takes such pride in the things it makes

and enjoys, Cardiff's array of regular markets, pop-up stalls and independent shops

act as windows into the population's pastimes and passions. From locally pressed

cider to reworked vintage dresses, and from ceramic bowls thrown a few miles away

to freshly made chutneys to fill them with, you can dig deep to find your treasure.

02

Trip Notes

Getting around Cardiff is good for pedestrians and increasingly for cyclists, so

you won’t need to catch a cab or public transport (if you want to, see traveline.

cymru).

When to go Cardiff Market and Corp Market are closed Sundays. Jacob's Mar-

ket is open Thursday to Saturday. Riverside Market 10am to 1.30pm. Pontcanna

Market 10am to 2pm. Double-check to avoid disappointment.

Money Most places take card payment, but bring cash just in case.

KERRY

ELSWORTH/

ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

52

6 Arcade Indies

Hobos (pictured; 26

High Street Arcade)

Curated vintage duds

and accessories from

the 1970s onwards.

Rules of Play

(29 Castle Arcade)

Hundreds of board

games and tabletop

games.

Spillers (27 Morgan

Arcade) The world's

oldest record store,

with vinyl galore.

Queer Emporium

(2 Royal Arcade)

Inclusive LQBTIQ+

shop and cafe.

ēē ēē ēē ēē ēē ēē ēē ēē ēē

`` `` `` `

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FROM TOP: CERI BREEZE/GETTY IMAGES ©

JOHN GRAYSON, CC BY-SA 2.0 VIA WIKIMEDIA COMMONS í ¼íµ

Cardiff Market is a

two-floor Victorian market

and foodie hub catering to

locals and visitors. Eat your

way around the retro hall

and shop for books, flowers,

secondhand records,

clothes, souvenirs and more.

See the view from upstairs,

overlooking the stands.

01

On Saturdays,

Kings Road Yard in

Pontcanna overflows

with people eyeing

up goods from local

traders, farmers and

makers at Pontcanna

Market.

05

Based in a former pub, Corp

Market is a community hub

of independent traders. Inside

find a wine shop, a not-for-profit

book store, art supplies, plants,

a deli and more.

04

Every Sunday, except on match

days, Riverside Market occupies

Fitzhamon Embankment opposite

Principality Stadium. It offers local

produce, food pop-ups, crafters,

bakers, baristas and a friendly

community.

03

Over 30 stalls fill the red-brick

labyrinth of Jacob's Market. Expect

collectables, jewellery, books, clocks,

comics, militaria, furniture, vintage

clothing and curios. Cafe and an art

gallery, too.

02

MIKE

LEWIS

PHOTOGRAPHY/REDFERNS

©

Womanby

Street

BELOVED HOME

OF CARDIFF'S

INDEPENDENT

MUSIC VENUES

For centuries, Wales

has been dubbed

'the land of song',

an epithet no

doubt influenced

by Welsh choirs,

operatic singers and

surprisingly tuneful

rugby fans. But, in

modern Cardiff,

independent music

venues are making

the biggest noise. It's

time to hear about the

most important street.

Left Sŵn Festival Middle Clwb Ifor

Bach Right Gig posters, Womanby St

CARDIFF ESSAY

John Rostron is CEO of the Associ-

ation of Independent Festivals and

co-founder of the Welsh Music Prize.

Threads: @johnnyrostron

Womanby St is the musical heart of Cardiff. It's a narrow

(ish) lane built centuries ago to connect Cardiff Castle to

the Quay, before the River Taff was diverted. Womanby St

has no pomp, no grandeur, no showy display. It's easy to

miss, partly because of its shyness, partly because the

entrance to Cardiff Castle is opposite. Who can blame

people for looking at a castle in the middle of a capital city?

It's sound, not sight, that Womanby St is known for. You'll

probably hear it before you see it. By accident, and now

by design, almost everything to do with music originates

from there. Its musical journey centres on Clwb Ifor Bach.

This three-storey building opened in 1983 as a members

club to bring people together to socialise through the

Welsh language. Now it amplifies music and language

outwards across the country.

It's arguable that most people in Wales have at least one

story involving Clwb Ifor Bach. Were you there when the

Strokes played? When Coldplay, Stereophonics, Bullet for

My Valentine, Animal Collective or Catatonia came? How

about when Pavement, LCD Soundsystem, Disclosure,

Mumford & Sons, First Aid Kit, Panic Shack, Adwaith or

Wet Leg performed?

Sŵn Festival, Cardiff's first multi-venue festival for

new music, was created in 2007. For one long weekend

it opened up venues across the city to celebrate music.

Sŵn, its music and its people spilled over into bars, pubs

and cafes. Womanby St venues throbbed. The Full Moon.

Fuel Rock Club. Cafe Europa. Sŵn became an annual

fixture. Hub Festival followed, a Psych Festival, then

Oxjam. Womanby St became a festival street.

54

JAMES

BRUNKER

UK/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

MIKE

LEWIS

PHOTOGRAPHY//REDFERNS

©

CARDIFF ESSAY

Great spaces have come and gone on Womanby St. The

Horse & Groom. Union Undeb. The Toucan. Y Fuwch Goch.

Four Bars at Dempseys. At one point, venues fell so swiftly

it was feared they'd all go. When Clwb Ifor Bach's future

was threatened by redevelopment plans, the city united.

A huge, joyous 'Save Womanby Street' march took place.

There were gig-goers, but

also thousands whose lives

had since moved on but

whose hearts remained in

the street. When the debate

reached the highest levels

of power in Wales, even Elin

Jones, then the incumbent

Llywydd of the Senedd (the

Senedd's Presiding Officer)

recalled her fond memories

of nights out at Clwb Ifor

Bach. It was a defining moment. Wales understood that

music was vital to the country. Womanby St was saved.

Cardiff Music City was born. A Cardiff Music Board was

created. The council bought the abandoned building adjacent

to Clwb Ifor Bach so the venue could expand. As if to mark

the change, a portrait of the Welsh Music Prize–winning artist

Gwenno was painted, filling an entire side of a Womanby St

building. Her face lights the street, looks across the city and

welcomes all to this brilliant home of new sounds.

It's sound, not sight,

that Womanby St is

known for. By accident,

and now by design,

almost everything to do

with music originates

from there.

55

ĳ Music City

Cardiff is the UK's first Music

City. It's leading the way

when it comes to promoting,

supporting, growing and

protecting the many facets

of the local music scene.

Collaboration exists between

Cardiff Council, stakeholders

and Sound Diplomacy (a

global research and strategy

consultancy that helps places

build and support sustain-

able cultural and economic

development). It's helping to

push Cardiff's music globally,

protect and improve live-

music venues and ensure that

the city's wider developments

are aligned with the music

industry's needs. The city's

independent music scene is

recognised as a significant

player in what makes Cardiff

special, and its reputation is

spreading internationally.

CARDIFF EXPERIENCES

NATURE | WILDLIFE | WALKING

03

Few UK cities have the swaths

of public green space that Cardiff

does. Every suburb, including the

city centre, has multiple leafy spots

with established trees, blooming

flower borders and ornamental

displays, and some also have wildlife-

rich lakes. Take some time away from

sightseeing to soak up the serene

vibes in an urban oasis.

Capital Green

ZONES

56

HELEN

J

DAVIES/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

š Just How Green?

Cardiff is an impressively

green city with 330 parks

and gardens. In 2024, Cardiff

Council proposed a‘deed

of dedication’with Fields in

Trust to safeguard parks and

green spaces.

Air quality in Cardiff is

good. The Welsh Government

is working on improving it

further.

CERI

BREEZE/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

GALLERY

DE

LABUX/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

CARDIFF EXPERIENCES

Left Friary Gardens, Cathays Park

Above left Bute Park

Above right Kingfisher, Cardiff

The Lungs of the City

The most central and largest park in Cardiff is

Bute Park. The 130-acre green expanse used

to be the garden of Cardiff Castle when the

fortress was owned by the Bute family (18th

to 20th century). Now, it's open to everyone to

enjoy for free year-round.

One of the park's most prominent features is

the River Taff. Dividing the park in two, its banks

are lined with trees and dotted with shallow

shale sections alongside the water. They are

perfect perching spots for dippers, kingfishers,

woodpeckers, cormorants and goosanders.

Along with blankets of grassland, there are

colourful flowerbeds, pathways through thick

woodlands, a plant shop, an environmentally

designed visitor centre, and numerous

refreshment stops, including the independently

How to

Getting here Most

of these parks can be

reached on foot from

Cardiff city centre. For

public transport, visit

traveline.cymru. Book

taxis through Uber or

Dragon Taxis

(dragontaxis.com).

When to visit Changing

seasons bring colour

and intrigue. In summer,

parks are busy and

blooming. Greenery

retreats in winter, with

stark branches adopting

a dusting of frost.

Top tip Wear sensible

shoes – trainers will suf-

fice but may get muddy.

57

operated Secret Garden Café and mobile

coffee purveyor Handlebar Barista.

Boats, Birds & Beautiful Beds

To the northeast lies another huge park: Roath

Park. Centred on a large shallow boating lake

measuring over a mile in perimeter, it was de-

signed in the 1800s to give Cardiff's increasing

population much-needed recreational space.

While it's changed a lot since then, adding

and removing various decorative structures

and public bathing areas, it's still a peaceful,

family-friendly park to which Cardiffians and

visitors flock.

Perhaps its most famous landmark is the

newly repainted Scott Memorial, a white

lighthouse-shaped clock tower at the lake’s

southern end. It was constructed in 1915 in

memory of Captain Scott, the Antarctic explorer

who sailed from Cardiff on a fateful expedition

to the South Pole. Also around the lake are

gaggles of tame geese, wooden boat stores

58

W I Spy…

As you explore the parks,

see if you can find these

often-overlooked objects of

significance:

• A statue of Billy the Seal

(Victoria Park)

• An ornate cast-iron

memorial fountain canopy

(Victoria Park)

• A wooden sculpture of a

bumblebee feeding on a

flower (Roath Park)

• Terrapins in the pond

at the glasshouse

conservatory (Roath Park)

• A small, metal reconstruc-

tive model of Blackfriars

Priory (Bute Park)

• The circle of Gorsedd

Stones (Bute Park)

• The tallest tree (probably)

in Cardiff – a grand fir/Abies

grandis (Parc Cefn Onn)

SJ-3009/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

COLIN

BURDETT/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

MARK

HAWKINS/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

CARDIFF EXPERIENCES

and hireable pedalos. Elsewhere in the park, there

is a large lakeside cake, an ice-cream hut, a gentle

river that meanders through woodland, rose beds,

wildflower patches and a conservatory bursting with

exotic plants and pond life.

Swim, Sup & Stroll

In the northern reaches of Cardiff, Llanishen Res-

ervoir and Lisvane Reservoir have been lovingly

restored to their former glory after years of planning

uncertainty. In 2016,Welsh Water purchased a 999-

year lease and collaborated with RAG to meticu-

lously restore the reservoirs, focusing on ecological

conservation, community engagement and wellness

activities.

Today, Llanishen and Lisvane Reservoirs have

reopened as Cardiff’s newest outdoor attraction and

green space, offering bookable water-sports activ-

ities, a modern two-storey visitor centre and a cafe

with lake views. The carefully monitored water now

welcomes paddleboarders, kayakers and open-

water swimmers, while the surrounding 5km of

paths showcase thriving birdlife and lush vegetation.

Head to the large, light-filled cafe, with its floor-to-

ceiling windows, for post-swim breakfast or lunch.

Bag a seat on the balcony and order a filling Welsh

breakfast packed with pan-fried laverbread, buttered

cockles and bacon.

Left Victoria Park Far left Roath Park

Bee by Chris Wood , Roath Park

Below Roath Park Lake

59

02

01

04

03

CARDIFF'S

Statues & Sculptures

01 Alliance

(The Hayes) Alliance, by

Jean-Bernard Métais,

symbolises Cardiff's

past, present and future

with a 25m metal arrow

and a hoop filled with

glowing liquid that

moves with the tide.

02 Celtic Ring

(Roald Dahl Plass) Har-

vey Hood's brass ring

marks the start of the

Taff Trail, a walking and

cycling route between

Cardiff and Brecon.

03 Ivor Novello

(Roald Dahl Plass)

Outside the national

arts centre of Wales sits

Peter Nicholas' bronze

statue of Ivor Novello,

the Welsh actor and

composer.

04 The Animal Wall

(Castle St) Sitting atop

the outer walls of Cardiff

Castle and Bute Park are

15 animal sculptures,

including a bear, lions

and baboons.

05 Aneurin Bevan

(Queen St) This bronze

statue by Robert

Thomas depicts the

determined founder

of the National Health

Service, who was born

in Tredegar (30 miles

from Cardiff).

05

06

07

08

09

06 Christ in

Majesty

(Llandaff Cathedral) Sir

Jacob Epstein's 5m-tall

aluminium sculpture

of Christ is suspended

above the congregation

on a double wishbone

concrete arch.

07 Three Obliques

(Walk In)

(Corbett Rd) Created

by Dame Barbara

Hepworth in 1968,

this sculpture sits

unassumingly outside

the Cardiff University

School of Music.

08 People Like Us

(Mermaid Quay) John

Clinch's waterfront

sculpture depicts a

couple and their dog. It

celebrates those who

lived and worked in

Cardiff Docks between

the late 1800s and

early 1900s.

09 Water Tower

(Roald Dahl Plass)

Between Wales

Millennium Centre and

the Oval Basin, this

21m-high stainless-

steel water feature

transfixes passers-by

with its constant flow

of water.

01 CERI BREEZE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 02 NEIL MCALLISTER/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 03 JSVIDEOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 04 PETYA PETROVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

PARKERSPICS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 05 JEAN.CUOMO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 06 TINASDREAMWORLD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 07 GRAHAM BELL/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©,

08 STEVED_NP3/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 09 GIRLWANDER1982/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

9

9

ġ

Q

Ą

P O N T C A N N A

R I V E R S I D E

C A T H A Y S

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Gardens

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Pedal

Power

0

400 m

0

0.2 miles

e

D

Castell Coch

(5.2mi)

CARDIFF EXPERIENCES

62

Connect two of Cardiff's best

known (and best dressed) castles

with this cycle along the Taff Trail.

While travelling along traffic-free

tarmac, you'll move away from the

city alongside the River Taff and its

wildlife, wide open fields and bluebell

woods (in April and May). With the

castles bookending the journey, mix

culture, history, nature and activity in

one morning or afternoon.

The Taff Trail enables cyclists

and walkers to traverse the

55 miles between Cardiff

and Brecon. Lavish castles

bookend this 7-mile section,

both transformed into Vic-

torian Gothic masterpieces

by architect William Burges

under the orders of the 3rd

Marquess of Bute.

Begin by visiting Cardiff

Castle (pictured). It's a

mighty stronghold with a

keep that you can climb for

a view over Cardiff. Inside,

there's a sumptuous eruption

of colour, ornate carvings and

meticulously painted murals.

Explore under your own

steam or join a tour.

When you’re ready, hire a

standard, adaptive or e-bike

from Pedal Power (cardif-

fpedalpower.org) and cycle

north through Bute Park,

following the River Taff.

Personalise your route here,

from woodland stretches to

open fields; cross Millennium

Bridge or Blackweir Bridge to

switch sides. Soon, all paths

converge to pass Gabalfa,

Llandaff North and Radyr

How to

Getting around This experience takes you on

the Taff Trail/NCN Route 8 by bike. Alternatively,

you could walk the route or get public transport

between castles; alight at Tongwynlais bus stop or

Taffs Well train station for Castell Coch.

When to go Come in spring or autumn to see the

changing seasons on the tree-lined trail.

Cost Riding the Taff Trail is free. Entry into the castles

isn’t. Adult tickets cost between £9.50 and £15.50.

Castle to

CASTLE

CASTLES | NATURE | CYCLING

04

CARDIFF EXPERIENCES

63

GIUSEPPE

PIAZZESE/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

ŀ Hiring a Bike

Hire bicycles and enjoy the

city and surrounding coun-

tryside from Pedal Power

locations in Pontcanna and

Cardiff Bay (cardiffpedal

power.org). This small,

Cardiff-based charity offers

a range of bike-hire choices,

including e-bikes, adapted

bikes and tandems. The

price is per person, and the

minimum hire is one hour.

At its Pontcanna site, you'll

find a small, fuss-free cafe

serving hot and cold drinks,

snacks and sandwiches.

Above Library, Cardiff Castle

under a canopy of trees. Ven-

ture right onto Iron Bridge Rd

at Tongwynlais. Castell Coch

(Red Castle) is just on the

other side of the village.

The red sandstone towers,

topped with conical turrets,

of this 19th-century hillside

fortress pierce the forest. The

interiors are otherworldly;

Burges' gold gilding and

saturation carry over from

his previous foray at Cardiff

Castle with extravagance and

playfulness. Feast on piping-

hot toasties in the rustic

Forest Cafe in Tongwynlais

before you return to Cardiff

the way you came.

JOAN

GRAVELL/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

A Country

of Castles

WALES' CASTLES

THROUGH THE AGES

Wales is known

globally for its castles,

over 600 of them –

more per square

mile than anywhere

else in the world.

With fortresses built

by Normans post-

invasion, princes'

castles, faux-castles

for show and more

styles besides, Wales'

castles recount the

past, brick by brick,

battle by battle.

Left Wiston Castle Middle Chepstow

Castle Right Harlech Castle

CARDIFF ESSAY

Wales' Early Castles

In 1066, after the Battle of Hastings, William the Conqueror

rewarded his noblemen by giving them land. To protect

their land, noblemen built castles. Working quickly, they

used readily available wood and earth.

Two types of earthwork castles were built in Wales. Where

soils were deeper, motte and bailey castles comprised

a large mound of earth (the 'motte') surmounted by a

wooden hall next to a protected courtyard (the 'bailey').

Where rock lay closer to the surface and less earth was

available for building, ringwork castles were built. Lacking

the motte, they relied on their earthen bank, ditch and

wooden palisade for defence.

In the late 11th to early 12th centuries stone was used to

rebuild parts of earth-and-timber castles and build new

castles. These stone castles served as strongholds and

residences for the occupying lord and his family, often

having multiple tiers to provide lodging and viewpoints.

Round keeps replaced rectangular ones; without corners,

they were less susceptible to damage.

Thirteenth-Century Castles

Conflict prompted the building of even stronger castles.

Stone walls around the bailey were made thicker, stronger

and higher, with additional observation towers for spotting

enemies and firing weapons. Entrances were protected

by gatehouses, usually built as an arched tower, D-shaped

twin towers or deep gatehouses with passages inside.

Welsh princes built their castles from stone, too, favouring

sites with strong natural defences such as rivers or hilltops.

By adding a short outer wall with additional towers around

64

c

MARCHAUGH/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

VALERIE2000/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

CARDIFF ESSAY

the tall inner stronghold, some armies made concentric castles.

Soldiers could aim arrows at approaching enemies from the

inner walls, while guards watched from the lower outside walls.

King Edward I led two military campaigns in Wales, defeating

the Welsh princes and capturing Wales for English rule. To do

this, he built and repaired many castles between 1276 and 1295.

His castles had to maintain

his hold of the captured

land, so he used the best

defence-strengthening

techniques of the time.

Impenetrable gatehouses,

concentric outer walls, arrow

loops, moats, towers and

neighbouring walled towns

were built using supplies

delivered across waterways.

Later Castles

After his conquest, Edward I didn't need his castles much.

Battles tended to be fought on open ground. In 1404, as part

of his campaign against Edward I, Owain Glyndŵr captured

Harlech Castle. When the Acts of Union (1536–43) brought

Wales and England together, some castles were transformed

into administration centres, law courts, prisons or luxury

accommodation. Some fell into ruin.

The English Civil War (1642–51) saw some Welsh castles

being revived for use as defensive bases by King Charles I. Walls

were strengthened again to withstand gunfire and cannons

were introduced. Fights became longer and harder, and some

castles were damaged beyond repair.

Welsh princes built

their castles from

stone, favouring sites

with strong natural

defences such as rivers

or hilltops.

65

X Exemplary Castles

Near Haverfordwest in Pem-

brokeshire, Wiston Castle is

one of Wales' best preserved

motte-and-bailey castles. The

stone shell-keep, added later,

reaches 4m in height.

Chepstow Castle was

Wales' earliest stone castle.

Its Great Hall, built from 1067,

was used to consolidate power

over newly conquered lands.

Built for King Edward I, Har-

lech Castle is a foreboding

fortress set in a spectacular

location. It followed trends in

military architecture and was

perfectly concentric.

The 13th-century Ewloe

Castle is a great example of a

native Welsh-built castle.

In the 18th century, Swan-

sea Castle was turned into a

debtors' prison.

 Dr Jonathan Berry,

senior inspector of ancient monu-

ments and archaeology for Cadw

@cadwwales

CARDIFF EXPERIENCES

Wales on

A PLATE

FOOD | HERITAGE | CITY TOUR

Eat your way around Wales' capital cuisine by incorporating some of

Cardiff's foodie pit stops into your exploration. Locally caught fish, award-

winning Welsh cheese, and cakes unique to the country are among the specialities

that await your tastebuds. Connect locations for a flavour-fuelled walk from the

city centre to Cardiff Bay via a river cruise or choose your own selection.

05

Trip Notes

Getting around This tour works well as a gentle stroll. Alternatively, hire a taxi

to take you between stops, rent a bike from Pedal Power (cardiffpedalpower.

org) or use local buses (traveline.cymru).

When to go The latter half of the week is busier, but this adds buzz rather than

bustle. Avoid Sundays as some stops will be closed.

Save room This feast is best enjoyed on an empty stomach.

GEOGRAPHY

PHOTOS/GETTY

IMAGES

©

66

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vegetable growers

growing and sourcing

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FROM LEFT: MARC/STUDIO LOOP MARKETING ©

JESSICAGIRVAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Have a late breakfast

at Canna Deli, where

local ingredients add

excitement to classic

brunch plates. Black

Mountain smoked salmon

and Welsh rarebit are

must-try menu staples.

01

Meander along the waterfront

to Fabulous Welshcakes, where

traditional and non-traditional

Welsh cakes are cooked in-store

on a cast-iron griddle.

05

Take high tea at Tir

a Môr, Voco St David's

coastal chic restaurant

that overlooks the

marina. Try its signature

cocktails infused with

Welsh spirits.

04

Pettigrew Tea Rooms sells

bara brith fruit cake by the slice.

Pick some up before boarding

the Aquabus waterboat to the

bay (weather permitting – check

aquabus.co.uk).

03

Victorian-era Cardiff Market is

rapidly evolving into Cardiff’s most

exciting street-food hub, with new

and established vendors dishing up

spicy Kerala fried chicken, pierogi and

Neapolitan-style pizzas.

02

AMY

LAUGHINGHOUSE/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

CERI

BREEZE/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

How to

Getting here Take the

train from Cardiff Queen

Street Station to Cardiff

Bay, or ride the Baycar

bus (route 6) from the

city centre to the Millen-

nium Centre. Buses run

approximately every 30

minutes.

When to go Cardiff Bay

glistens in good weather,

so choose a sunny day if

you can.

On the water For a fun

arrival, board the Aquabus

(aquabus.co.uk) in Bute

Park. It takes a leisurely

cruise along the Taff, then

docks at Cardiff Bay.

CARDIFF EXPERIENCES

Cardiff Bay:

THEN & NOW

HERITAGE | ENTERTAINMENT | WATERFRONT

06

During the Industrial Revolution, the area now known

as Cardiff Bay was a tidal dockland at the centre of the Welsh

import and export industry. It's since been redeveloped into

a vibrant waterfront of restaurants, bars, cultural venues and

recreational spaces beside a freshwater lake.

68

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3

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Quay

Graving

Docks

B U T E T O W N

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Bay

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Dock

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Cardiff Bay

Train Station

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Centre

Craft in

the Bay

Senedd

Tiger Yard

0

400 m

0

0.2 miles

e

D

Cardiff International

White Water

(1mi)

Cardiff Bay's biggest cultural venue is the Wales Millennium

Centre (WMC). This national arts centre has six performance

spaces for everything from modern dance to 18th-century

opera. The foyer often offers free performances, and the cafes

and bars are open to all.

Over the road from WMC is Craft in the Bay, a shop and

exhibition space dedicated to contemporary Welsh craft. Ce-

ramicists, jewellers, textile artists, metalworkers, printmakers,

glassmakers and other creatives display their handiwork, often

running workshops alongside their exhibitions.

The Senedd, home to the Welsh Parliament, is also worth a

visit. It was built using local, sustainable materials and is de-

signed to encourage transparency and public involvement. You

can access the debating chamber and committee rooms, even

during parliamentary discussions. Plus, it has a small cafe and

shop on the top level.

Outdoor food court Tiger Yard is the newest addition to

Cardiff Bay's evolving food and drink offerings. Repurposed,

rainbow-coloured shipping containers offer an eclectic mix of

street food, craft drinks and colourful murals in an industri-

al-chic aesthetic. Expect a rotating selection of food vendors

dishing up gourmet tacos, sizzling steaks and souvlaki.

For a thrilling way to get up close with the freshwater lake, visit

Cardiff International White Water (CIWW). It's the UK's first

on-demand white-water-rafting facility, with a 250m Olympic

course of bends and slopes. You can also try SUP, kayaking,

tubing or a high ropes course.

Far left top Cardiff Bay architecture

Far left bottom Norwegian Church

CARDIFF EXPERIENCES

69

R

Roald Dahl's

Cardiff

Roald Dahl was born at

home in 1916 in Llandaff,

Cardiff. The house on

Fairwater Rd, now called

Ty Gwyn, was designed

by Dahl's father, Harold.

They moved to Ty Mynydd

Lodge in another suburb,

Radyr, in 1918.

There's a blue plaque

outside 11 High St in

Llandaff, which used to

be Mrs Pratchett's Sweet

Shop. It's mentioned in

Dahl's autobiography, and

the pranks he played on

the shopkeeper inspired

The Great Mouse Plot.

Dahl left for boarding

school at nine years old,

but drew on his early

childhood for inspira-

tion. His family's grave

is at St John's Church,

Danescourt.

CARDIFF EXPERIENCES

COAST | COUNTRYSIDE | DAY TRIP

07

Although Cardiff rests

beside the Bristol Channel, the

best coast near the capital is in a

neighbouring county, the Vale of

Glamorgan. This easily reachable,

southernmost part of Wales boasts

charming towns and villages

surrounded by countryside and

coastlines.

Coastal

ESCAPES

70

STEPHEN

MITHAN/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

5 Fossil Hunting

Remnants of life from up to

350 million years ago are

abundant along the cliffs and

beaches of the Glamorgan

Heritage Coast and neigh-

bouring coastlines. Fossils

and markings left by reptiles,

sealife, coral and dinosaurs

have been found in rocks.

Before looking, check tide

times and avoid cliff edges.

GRAY

FREEMAN/GETTY

IMAGES

©

MARYROSE5/GETTY

IMAGES

©

CARDIFF EXPERIENCES

Left Beach huts, Barry Island

Above left Beach, Barry Island Above

right Fairground rides, Barry Island

The Vale of Glamorgan can be split into

four subregions: Barry and Barry Island;

Cowbridge and the rural Vale; Llantwit Major

and the Glamorgan Heritage Coast; and

Penarth. Each area is unique, but all share

a calmness and roominess compared to

Cardiff. You can visit multiple areas of the

Vale (as it's commonly known) in one day.

Choose what interests you most, be it hiking

along rugged cliffs, strolling around market

towns or relaxing on the beach.

Barry, Largest Town in the Vale

There's a traditional high street, green

spaces and steep hills of terraced houses,

but the main draw is Barry Island – a classic

seaside location complete with two beaches,

amusement arcades, fairground rides and

sticks of rock. Whitmore Bay is a long, wide,

Howto

Getting here Depending

on the destination,

driving from Cardiff to

the Vale of Glamorgan

coastline takes between

15 minutes and an

hour. Train stations at

Bridgend, Llantwit Major,

Barry and Penarth can

be reached via services

from Cardiff. Local bus

services operate across

the area. Check online

(traveline.cymru) to plan

routes.

Parking Coastal car

parks are open from 8am

to 11pm. Charges range

from £2 for up to two

hours to £8 for all-day

parking.

Canine companions

Dogs are welcomed in

many cafes, shops and

on paths. Look for the

Paws in the Vale sticker.

71

golden beach with a sweeping promenade

along its entire length. Backed by landscaped

gardens, colourful beach huts, cafes, chippies

and souvenir shops, the beach is a glorious

natural wonder beside the sights, sounds and

smells of the manmade amenities. Its enor-

mity is most apparent if you walk from Friars

Point, along Whitmore Bay, then up around

the headland to the SUP hub of Jackson's

Bay. This second beach is a small sandy cove,

quieter than Whitmore but just as good.

A Different Seaside Experience

Penarth is also a seaside town but is more

upmarket and less bucket-and-spade. The sea-

front has A renovated Victorian pier, headed

by an art deco pavilion and a long esplanade of

bars, cafes and ice-cream shops. The well-

manicured Alexandra Park links the beach to

the town centre uphill, where you'll find coffee

shops, independent boutiques and restaurants.

There's also a marina area, where the Cardiff

Bay Barrage emerges to join the Vale to the city.

72

H Coastal Eats

WHOCULT Coffee +

Donuts Fluffy, indulgent

iced doughnuts and strong

coffee, served from a

warehouse on a Bridgend

industrial estate.

Sycamore Tree This tradi-

tional country pub in Col-

winston offers home-cooked

pub favourites, from fish

and chips to pie and mash.

Family and dog friendly.

Forage A farm shop and

kitchen near Cowbridge

that provides fresh, season-

al meals centred around

Welsh produce. Walk

around the grounds after

lunch for great views.

Home Michelin restaurant

run by James Sommerin

in Penarth. Behind the

mystery (heavy curtains

cover the windows, a

'surprise' taster menu), find

incredible, complex food in a

homely, intimate setting.

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CARDIFF

Ogmore-

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Colwinston

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Glamorgan

Heritage

Coast

Dyffryn

Gardens

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ANDREW

MORGAN

EVANS/GETTY

IMAGES

©

WHOCULT

©

CARDIFF EXPERIENCES

One of the Best Towns in Wales

Cowbridge is often regarded as one of Wales'

fanciest places to live, thanks to its reputation

as a chic market town. The high street is lined

with fashion boutiques, smart places to dine,

homeware shops and all-round niceties. Visitors

enjoy perusing the wares, eating well and taking

countryside walks from here. Dyffryn Gardens,

between Cowbridge and Cardiff, is worth a stop;

it has Edwardian botanic gardens and a large

country house.

Cliffs, Beaches & Sand Dunes

Llantwit Major and the Glamorgan Heritage

Coast are all about the waves. The town provides

access to the Wales Coast Path, with its large

beach seemingly carved out of parting cliffs.

Use the Vale Trails maps (visitthevale.com) to

plot a route along the Glamorgan Heritage

Coast, with its 14 miles of unspoilt coastline, six

beautiful beaches, dramatic clifftops, wooded

valleys and abundant wildlife. From Ogmore-

by-Sea's sprawling beach, you can access the

Merthyr Mawr sand dunes – an extensive dune

system that's home to the Big Dipper dune, the

second-largest of its kind in Europe.

Left WHOCULT Coffee + Donuts

Below Merthyr Mawr sand dunes

73

01 RICHARD M LEE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 02 HELEN ANNE SMITH/WILDERNESS BREWERY ©, 03 MARK2481/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 04 AWE INSPIRING IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

05 JSORDE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, MACIEJ TOPOROWICZ, NYC/GETTY IMAGES © 06 AMAZON ©, 07 MELIN TREGWYNT ©, 08 KEVIN GEORGE/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

01 Welsh cakes

Visit Bakestones in

Cardiff Market for warm,

traditional Welsh cakes

fresh off the griddle.

02 Welsh

beers & ales

Choose your preferred

brew at the Bottle Shop

in Roath.

03 Love spoons

There's a love spoon for

every occasion (p90);

choose one for you and

one for a friend at Castle

Welsh Crafts.

04 Welsh cheese

Prepare for a future

feast with a selection of

award-winning Welsh

cheeses from Canna

Deli in Pontcanna.

01

02

03

04

DON'T LEAVE

Cardiff Without...

05 Vinyl records

It'd be a crime to be

near Spillers, the oldest

record shop in the world,

and not pick up some

freshly pressed vinyl.

06 Dylan Thomas

book

Sample the works of

Wales' literary legend.

You'll find books of

Thomas' poetry, stories

and other writing in

Waterstones.

07 Melin Tregwynt

homewares

Treat yourself to a

cushion or luxurious

blanket woven in Wales

by Melin Tregwynt,

available at the National

Museum Cardiff.

08 Welsh spirits

Add Wales to your drinks

cupboard at Wally's

Liquor Cellar. Must-try

tipples include Bartu

Rum, Penderyn Whisky

and Barry Island Gin.

05

07

08

06

a Noteworthy Museums

St Fagans National History Museum

Wander back in time at this open-air museum

of Welsh life. Over 40 reconstructed buildings

retell Wales' history brick-by-brick, from

miners' cottages to a grand manor house.

National Museum Cardiff

Large but manageable building housing

art, geology and natural history collections,

as well as touring exhibitions. It has the

United Kingdom's largest collection of French

Impressionist paintings outside of London.

Museum of Cardiff

The Museum of Cardiff (formerly the Cardiff

Story) is all about the history of Cardiff.

Objects and artefacts illustrate the city's past,

assisted by interactive displays, audio guides

and footage.

Techniquest

Science comes to life in this family-friendly

hands-on science museum. Over 100 inter-

active exhibits teach visitors about science

through play, creativity and demonstration.

Parents love it, too.

ħ Tea & Coffee

Uncommon Ground

£

Family-owned coffee shop that's become a

firm favourite in Cardiff's indie coffee scene.

It's located in Royal Arcade, the city's oldest.

You'll be hard-pressed to find a better freshly

roasted flat white in the capital.

Little Man Coffee Co

£

This independent coffee shop is set back

from the shopping streets. It's well-suited for

laptop work, catch-ups over coffee, or quick

pit stops. The shop also sells artisan wine.

Hardlines

£

This diner-style cafe in Canton channels

retro Italian valley cafe vibes with West Coast

American eats and playful branding. Expect

quality, ethically sourced coffee, all roasted

just a few miles away.

Big Moose

£

Coffee with a mission is found at Big Moose in

the city centre. This community-spirited cafe

and charity serves locally roasted coffee with

profits reinvested into charitable work.

H International Cuisine

Matsudai Ramen

££

Wales' first ramen shop wows from a con-

verted Grangetown bank. Think rich, fragrant,

seasonal ramen bowls with borderline Studio

Ghibli beauty. Sit bar-side to watch the miso

magic unfold. Dreamy.

New York Deli

£

Massive hoagies, stuffed sandwiches and

teetering bagels are the norm from this

American-inspired cafe. Cram bread with deli

meats, cheeses, pickles and salad.

Purple Poppadom

££

Chef Anand George heads up this house of

nouvelle Indian cuisine. Combining classic

flavours from the subcontinent with local addi-

tions, his food is fun, imaginative and refined.

Asador 44

££

Atmospheric restaurant bringing the smoky

flavours of Spain to Cardiff. Its signature asa-

dor grill serves perfectly charred meats and

fish in an intimate setting. Order Spanish vino

from the glass-fronted wine cave.

CARDIFF REVIEWS

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

76

Ħ Cocktails & Brewery Bars

Lab 22

££

The friendly, knowledgeable staff at this city-

centre cocktail bar offer a menu of delightful

boozy concoctions. Nonalcoholic versions

are available too. Pricey, showy, worth it.

Dead Canary

££

This dimly lit, Prohibition-inspired bar serves

some of the best cocktails in Cardiff. It's

deliberately hard to find for excitement pur-

poses; ring the bell near the painted feather.

Yard

£

An SA Brain pub that delivers what you'd

expect from a central bar: a solid range of

beers, pub menu classics, a jolly (somewhat

noisy) atmosphere and sports on TV.

Tiny Rebel Cardiff

£

The original bar from Newport's Tiny Rebel

Brewery, with around 10 of its own beers on

tap from casks and kegs, lots of guest beers

and a bar menu.

Pipes Brewery

£

Compact, artisan brewery hidden down Kings

Road Yard in Pontcanna. Focuses on unique

and unusual global beer styles and modern

favourites. All products are natural.

š Vegan & Vegetarian

Alex Gooch Bakery

£

Expert plant-based baker Alex Gooch's

flagship Cardiff cafe is packed with delicious

baked treats, from loaded focaccias and pizza

slices to berry-topped French toast and his

signature cronc croissant balls.

Milkwood

££

This laid-back neighbourhood bistro in the

burbs has plenty of vegan and veggie options

on its seasonal brunch menu. From avo on

toast and waffles to house granola loaded

with mixed berries and coconut yoghurt.

Crumbs

£

Morgan Arcade houses Cardiff's longest-

running vegetarian cafe. It's known for its

heaped wooden bowls of wholesome salads,

along with freshly prepared pies and quiches,

homemade chilli and hearty soups.

ĩ Gaming Bars & Board Game Cafes

Chance and Counters

£

The original and best board-game cafe in

Cardiff, with over 500 games on the shelves.

Play for hours on end, fuelled by local beer

and fast food.

Kongs

£

This underground gaming bar is dark, a bit

dingy, but a whole load of pixelated fun. Most

game genres are available, all with original

motherboards, plus table tennis.

NQ64

£

Play over 30 arcade games and consoles in

the Cardiff branch of NQ64. Book a booth and

buy tokens for machines at the bar. Try the

video-game-inspired cocktails for extra fun.

St Fagans National History Museum

PHILIP

BIRD

LRPS

CPAGB/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

CARDIFF REVIEWS

77

BRECON

BEACONS &

SOUTHEAST

WALES

MOUNTAINS | ROMANTIC VALLEYS | FOOD

 Trip Builder (p80)

 Practicalities (p82)

 Foraging Feast (p84)

 Smoke & Fire (p86)

 Star of Wonder (p88)

 Love Is a Spoon (p90)

 Sheep Trekking (p92)

 One Peak Over (p94)

 Myths & Magic (p96)

 Literary Hay (p98)

 The Fantasy

Village (p100)

 Food at the

Source (p102)

 Behind the Wheel in the

Vale of Ewyas (p106)

 Romance in the

Wye Valley (p108)

 Listings (p110)

WHITCOMBERD/GETTY

IMAGES

©

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P O W Y S

C A R M A R T H E N S H I R E

Bristol

Channel

Brecon Beacons

(Bannau Brycheiniog)

National Park

Pen-y-Fan

Penderyn

Cynghordy

Llandovery

Llangadog

Porth

Llantwit

Major

Cowbridge

Sennybridge

Llandeilo

Tonypandy

Brecon

Aberdare

Crai

Bridgend

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Đ q

v

E

BRECON

BEACONS

&

SOUTHEAST

WALES BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

80

Scale mountains above

mythical Llyn-y-Fan Fach

in the lonely western

Brecon Beacons (p95)

ń 1hr from Brecon

Swirling in mists and myth, Brecon BEACONS

(Bannau Brycheiniog) are the drumroll to a wilder,

more mountainous land. Come to scale remote

peaks, roam romantically ruined castles and abbeys,

immerse yourself in industrial heritage and feast on

outstanding local produce.

BRECON BEACONS

& SOUTHEAST

WALES

Trip Builder

Take a fleecy friend for a

sheep trekking walk (p92)

ń 30min from Brecon

Stargaze in the Brecon

Beacons Dark Sky

Reserve (p88)

ń 10min from Brecon

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C A E R P H I L L Y

V A L E O F

G L A M O R G A N

M O N M O U T H S H I R E

E N G L A N D

E N G L A N D

B

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Severn

Estuary

Capel-y-

Ffin

Bwlch

Pandy

Llanhamlach

Crickhowell

Blaenavon

Tretower

Pengenffordd

Hay-on-Wye

Rhoose

Llanthony

Tintern

Glasbury

Monmouth

Cwmbran

Ebbw

Vale

Abergavenny

Talgarth

Chepstow

Pontypridd

Penarth

Pontypool

Caerphilly

Abersychan

Barry

Merthyr

Tydfil

Newport

Hereford

Bristol

CARDIFF

ć

E

ņ

Ĥ

6

@

İ

Ň

0

20 km

0

10 miles

e

from LEFT: TREVOR MAYES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

KERRY WALKER/LONELY PLANET ©

THE PHOTOLIBRARY WALES/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Lose your heart to

storybook-pretty

Crickhowell (p100)

Ň 25min from Brecon

Forage for roots,

shoots and fungi in

Abergavenny (p84)

ŉ 45min from Cardiff

Dive into bookshops and festivals

in literary Hay-on-Wye (p98)

Ň 30min from Brecon

Hit the high road through

the Black Mountains in the

Vale of Ewyas (p106)

ń 15min from Abergavenny

Explore vineyards and tea

plantations in the Vale of

Glamorgan (p103)

ń 20min from Cardiff

CERI

BREEZE/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

82

BRECON

BEACONS

&

SOUTHEAST

WALES FIND

YOUR

FEET

Car Major roads include the

east–west A40 and the north–

south A470, which links up to the

M4. For remote corners of the

national park, you'll need your

own wheels. Single-track lanes

delving further into the hills

present their own challenges,

from stray sheep to slow tractors

and tricky reversing. Car parks

can get busy in peak season.

Bus Regular buses link up the

towns and villages in the national

park. Abergavenny, Brecon and

Hay-on-Wye are hubs. No Sunday

services on smaller routes.

Walking The greenest, most

enjoyable way to explore.

Long-distance routes include the

Beacons Way, the Wye Valley Walk

and Offa's Dyke Path.

GETTING AROUND

pint of beer

£4.50

day's bike hire

£40

1hr parking spot

£1.40

Practicalities

WHEN TO GO

HOW MUCH

FOR A...

APR–MAY

Wildflowers, lambs,

spring weather and

the Hay Festival.

OCT–DEC

A quiet time for

muddy country rambles

and cosy pub lunches.

JUN–SEP

Best for long-distance

hikes, camping and

music festivals.

JAN–MAR

Can be chilly and rainy,

but the hills and trails are

quiet.

ARRIVING

Cardiff Airport Wales' main gateway is roughly

an hour's drive south of the Brecon Beacons

National Park. Several airlines operate here,

including TUI, KLM and Vueling. Most major

car-hire companies are represented, including

Enterprise and Avis.

Abergavenny Handy transport hub with good

onward rail and bus connections to South Wales

and beyond. Trains from here serve destinations

including Newport (£11.50) and Cardiff (£17.20).

TOP:

LOCRIFA/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

BOTTOM:

BRENT

HOFACKER/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

EATING & DRINKING

The food scene has been simmering in the Brecon Beacons and its

surrounds for years, but lately it has exploded. Lamb, beef and smoked

fish, cheese, venison, wine, gin and single-estate teas – some of the

UK's most exciting producers are reaping the riches of these mountains

and valleys. And chefs are increasingly imaginative with farm-to-fork,

garden-grown and foraged ingredients. The icing on the culinary cake is

Abergavenny and the surrounding area, shining brightly with a Miche-

lin-starred restaurant And its much-feted September food festival.

Best Welsh rarebit

Must-try oak-roasted salmon

International Welsh

Black Mountains

Rarebit Centre (p103)

Smokery (p104)

MONEY

Carry some cash as ATMs are few and far between

beyond the major towns. Always keep a few

spare pound coins for parking meters and tips in

restaurants and cafes.

WHERE TO STAY

If you're travelling all over, you might want to hop between towns and

villages; otherwise, it's more relaxed to have one base from which to

strike out into the hills.

SENSIBLE PACKING

Leave fancy clothes at home and

pack for unpredictable weather.

For the Brecon Beacons, bring

sturdy boots, layers and water-

proofs (yes, even in summer!).

CONNECT & FIND YOUR WAY

Wi-fi Most towns have 4G but

the connection gets patchier the

remoter you go. The majority of

hotels, cafes, bars, restaurants

and tourist attractions offer

free wi-fi.

Navigation Single-track lanes

can be bewildering. Get an app or

map (like OS Explorer Map OL12)

in case your GPS fails.

83

BRECON

BEACONS

&

SOUTHEAST

WALES FIND

YOUR

FEET

Town/Village

Atmosphere

Abergavenny

Attractive market town, exciting food

scene and festival, easy access to the Black

Mountains. Good transit connections.

Crickhowell

Pretty village, good pubs, cafes, local peak

to climb.

Brecon

Appealing canalside, cathedral-topped town,

highest peaks of the Beacons nearby. Popular.

Hay-on-Wye

Handsome town famous for literary festival

and secondhand bookshops. Busy during

festival.

Llandeilo

Bijou town brilliant for reaching the western

Brecon Beacons. Brightly painted Georgian

centre with cafes and crafts.

KERRY

WALKER/LONELY

PLANET

©

MARTIN

FOWLER/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

How to

Getting here Adele’s

foraging courses kick off

at 10am at Angel Hotel

(angelabergavenny.com)

in central Abergavenny

on the last Sunday of the

month. Or contact her to

arrange a bespoke walk.

When to go The foraging

season in the Brecon Bea-

cons runs roughly from

late March to October.

How much does it cost?

Half-day courses cost

£35 (children free). Week-

day courses near Brecon

cost £40. Gin foraging

workshops are £50.

BRECON

BEACONS

&

SOUTHEAST

WALES EXPERIENCES

Foraging

FEAST

WILD FOOD | NATURE | LANDSCAPES

08

Adele Nozedar finds rich pickings in the moors, mountains and

hedgerow-rimmed meadows in the Brecon Beacons. Joining one of her guided

foraging walks is not only a great way to enliven dinner, it shows off these

landscapes on a whole new level, allowing you to slow the pace, embrace nature

and the elements, and channel your inner hunter-gatherer instinct.

84

Walk on the wild side A red kite whistles overhead, a stream

tumbles by, gorse erupts in the hedgerows – your senses are on

high alert when foraging in Brecon Beacons (Bannau Brychein-

iog) with wild-food expert and author Adele Nozedar. As you

wander, you’ll become attuned to nature's rhythms, your eyes

seeing the landscape afresh as you learn to identify edible plants,

medicinal herbs, fungi, trees and wildlife. Adele’s walks range

from Sunday rambles starting at the Angel Hotel in Abergaven-

ny to walks where you gather botanicals to make your own gin

(cocktails included).

Seasons greetings Foraging begins in the national park in

late March. In spring, you might come across young nettles,

jack-by-the-hedge (garlic mustard), hawthorn leaves and wild

garlic. Summer brings a bounty of young fruits, hazelnuts, roses,

pineapple weed and Japanese knotweed. In autumn, keep an eye

out for fungi, berries, apples and soft fruits such as wimberries

(bilberries).

Foraging goes gourmet For real culinary wizardry, swing east

of the Bannau Brycheiniog to the green-canopied lanes of the

Wye Valley. At Michelin-starred The Whitebrook (thewhitebrook.

co.uk), chef Chris Harrod’s expertly crafted menus recreate the

valley on a plate. You can expect hand-foraged garlic, bittercress,

wild onion and hogweed from the valley, which connect diners

to the immediate locale. Each intricately composed dish – from

Severn & Wye smoked eel with seaweed dressing, estuary greens

and Exmoor caviar to Middle white suckling pig paired with celeri-

ac and comice – is an utter delight.

Left Foraging with Adele Nozedar

Far left top The Fish main, White-

brook Far left bottom Bilberries

85

š

Why Foraging

Matters

Modern life can leave us

disconnected, but forag-

ing returns us to nature,

following in our ancestors'

footsteps. When you pick

wild garlic in ancient

woodland, you're doing

exactly what has been

done for thousands of

years. Your eyes soon

open to the bounty of

the Brecon Beacons, and

being outdoors is good for

the soul: it puts everything

into perspective. One rule:

if you don't know what it

is, don't eat it! And plant

apps aren't the answer.

Buy yourself a book in-

stead. I would recommend

mine, obviously, but the

Collins guides are also

very thorough.

 Insights from

Adele Nozedar,

foraging guide

and author of

The Hedgerow Handbook,

breconbeaconsforaging.com

@hedgerowguru

BRECON

BEACONS

&

SOUTHEAST

WALES EXPERIENCES

ANN

SEYMOUR

PHOTOGRAPHY/WWW.ANNSEYMOUR.CO.UK

©

EDUCATION

IMAGES/GETTY

IMAGES

©

Smoke

& Fire

GO UNDERGROUND

TO EMBRACE WELSH

COAL-MINING

HERITAGE

Welsh coal mines

were at the heart of

Britain's Industrial

Revolution, as Wales

shipped coal to all

corners of the globe,

powering factories,

steam engines

and mighty ships.

Nowadays, South

Wales has embraced

tourism to preserve

its industrial heritage.

The mines are silent,

but their stories still

touch deeply.

Left Rhondda Heritage Park

Middle Big Pit National Coal Museum

Right Rhondda Valley mining, 1931

Black Gold Rush

The Industrial Revolution changed Wales forever. By the

1830s, people poured in from poor farming communities,

hungry for coal-mining work. But it was John Crichton-

Stuart, second Marquess of Bute, who kick-started the

‘black gold’ rush. In 1839, the wealthy industrialist gambled

his fortune to build Butetown Docks in Cardiff.

By 1913, Cardiff was the world’s top coal port, exporting

10 million tonnes of the stuff. The Grade II–listed Coal

Exchange was the nerve centre of the trade – in 1908, a

coal merchant wrote the world’s first-ever £1 million cheque

there.

Mining peaked in 1920, with 271,000 men down in the

pits. But in the wake of WWI, coal demand dwindled. As col-

lieries began to close in the 1950s and '60s, unemployment

soared. Massive closures under Thatcher were the final nail

in the coffin, and the 1984 miners' strikes couldn’t halt the

inevitable death of the industry. With mining gone, many

valley towns were left untethered: they lost employment,

but also purpose, hope and spirit.

Life Is the Pits

Shut off from the world, light extinguished, mining was a

gruelling, heart-breaking job. Armed with helmet, lamp, pick

and shovel, miners descended around 425m to the bottom

of a shaft, working all hours and, in winter, never glimpsing

daylight except on Sundays. In the early 19th century,

women and children as young as four were among them.

Miners diced daily with death. But the bleakness created

bonds and forged strong communities in tight-knit valleys,

86

BRECON

BEACONS

&

SOUTHEAST

WALES ESSAY

đ

DAILY

HERALD

ARCHIVE

/SSPL/GETTY

IMAGES

©

CLIFF

DAY/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

where rows of two-up-two-down terraced houses shadowed

the contours of steep hills. Money was tight, but the church

and pub, rugby and male voice choirs provided light at the end

of the tunnel for workers who eked out a life in the pits.

From Coal to Cool

The demise of heavy industry dealt the work-starved valleys a

fatal blow, but they’re kicking back with one-of-a-kind visitor

experiences celebrating industrial heritage. At the forefront

is UNESCO World Heritage

Blaenavon, with its brilliantly

preserved ironworks, inter-

active displays in a blast

furnace’s hulking remains,

and Big Pit National Coal

Museum, where ex-miners

have swapped 12-hour shifts

cutting coal for guiding peo-

ple 90m down a mineshaft,

sharing stories of hard graft

and camaraderie.

In a similar vein, former miners lead visitors 425m under-

ground at A Welsh Coal Mining Experience in the Rhondda

Valley. The mine is as deep as the Empire State Building and

once produced 1000 tonnes of coal on a good day.

'It’s easy to overlook the Valleys, but what happened here

was important. The mines made Wales – put it on the world

map. And here you get the chance to go down below and feel

what it was like'; says Ceri Thompson, coal curator at Big Pit.

Armed with helmet,

lamp, pick and shovel,

miners descended

around 425m to the

bottom of a shaft,

working all hours

and, in winter, never

glimpsing daylight.

87

E A Coal Miner's Day

If you were on the day shift,

you had to get up at 5.30am

to be down in the pit by 7am. It

was tough, but as a teenager it

was an adventure. There was a

lot of banter and joking, some

fighting, but we looked out for

each other. It was dangerous,

but the worst thing was the

damage it did to your lungs.

We chewed tobacco and sang

all the time – not Welsh hymns

but Led Zeppelin, the Animals.

'We've Gotta Get Out of This

Place' was a favourite!

In winter you went down and

came up in the dark. When the

ventilation went, you would

be boiling hot and working

stripped to the waist – even

with 6ft of snow up above. It

was lovely coming up from the

mines in summer – you could

literally smell the sunlight.

 Ceri Thompson

Big Pit Coal Curator,

museum.wales/

bigpit

BRECON

BEACONS

&

SOUTHEAST

WALES ESSAY

CHARLES

PALMER/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

ARTHUR

CAUTY/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

How to

Getting here Your first

port of call for information

and stargazing should

be the Brecon Beacons

National Park (Bannau

Brycheiniog; beacons-

npa.gov.uk) visitor centre

in Libanus, just south of

the A40.

When to go Year-round

when the weather is clear

and skies moonless.

Winter is arguably better

as darkness comes earlier

(wrap up warm).

Top tip Use the Night Cap

Camera app to help you

take enviable night-sky

photos on your phone.

Star of

WONDER

ASTRONOMY | STARGAZING | DARK SKY RESERVE

09

When darkness falls in the Brecon Beacons Dark Sky Reserve, it is total.

The chorus of bleating sheep rises to a sky glittering with an eternity of stars.

On clear nights, the Milky Way and distant planets feel close enough to touch,

and you can glimpse constellations like Ursa Major and Ursa Minor with the

naked eye alone.

88

BRECON

BEACONS

&

SOUTHEAST

WALES EXPERIENCES

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D

Brecon Beacons

(Bannau Brycheiniog)

National Park

Penderyn

Groesffordd

Pontneddfechan

Llandovery

Hay-on-Wye

Llangadog

Abercraf

Libanus

Rhosmaen

Sennybridge

Brecon

Ebbw

Vale

Abergavenny

Neath

Talgarth

Aberdare

Pontypool

Clydach

Merthyr

Tydfil

Crickhowell

Sugar

Loaf

Crai

Reservoir

Usk

Reservoir

Carreg

Cennen

Llanthony

Priory

Hay

Bluff

0

20 km

0

10 miles

e

Dark skies The Brecon Beacons (Bannau Brycheiniog) put

Wales on the celestial map when it became the world’s fifth

International Dark Sky Reserve in 2013, with certification from

the International Dark Skies Association (IDA). As night falls,

you can connect with nature and go star-chasing without

special equipment, but binoculars or high-powered telescopes

take stargazing to a whole new level. Expect to see major

constellations, meteor showers, bright nebulas and the Milky

Way in all its swirling celestial glory.

What to see when In spring, look out for Ursa Major (and

the stars of the Plough), Leo (the Lion), Boötes (the Herds-

man) and Corona Borealis, crown of the spring sky. Summer

brings sightings of Jupiter, Saturn, the Milky Way and Sum-

mer Triangle. In autumn, you might spot fiery Mars, Deneb in

Cygnus and the great spiral Andromeda Galaxy. Bright winter

constellations include Taurus, Orion and dazzling Sirius.

Where to stargaze The Usk and Crai reservoirs in the

western Brecon Beacons are a good starting point, with road

access, little light pollution and flat areas ideal for telescopes

and cameras. But medieval Carreg Cennan castle, high atop

a limestone crag, is arguably more atmospheric. Further east,

ramp up the dark sky romance at the ruins of Llanthony Prio-

ry in the secluded Vale of Ewyas, at Sugar Loaf in the heart of

the Black Mountains, or at 677m Hay Bluff on the road over

the Gospel Pass to Hay-on-Wye.

Far left top Milky Way over the Brecon

Beacons Far left bottom Llanthony

Priory

89

ć

Stargazing in the

Brecon Beacons

• Check weather condi-

tions and dress warmly –

nights can be chilly even

at the height of summer.

• Let your eyes adapt

naturally to the darkness,

then use a red-light head

torch to navigate in the

dark without affecting

your night vision.

• Bring binoculars or a

telescope, warm drinks,

and plenty of memory

cards and spare batteries.

• Visit within a week of the

new moon to maximise

the hours of darkness.

• Use the Clear Outside

app to monitor the weath-

er conditions and cloud

coverage at stargazing

locations.

• See the national park

website (breconbeacons.

org) for the lowdown on

stargazing accommo-

dation.

BRECON

BEACONS

&

SOUTHEAST

WALES EXPERIENCES

01 Anchor

A maritime symbol

recalling times when

sailors once whittled love

spoons on long voyages.

The anchor conveys

a wish to settle down,

anchor the heart.

02 Bell

Symbol of joy and

remembrance, the bell

marks a beginning or an

end. They are often used

for weddings, anniversa-

ries and funerals.

03 Trees, plants

& flowers

Naturalistic symbols

represent growing love,

new life and fresh begin-

nings. Common flowers

include roses, tulips and

daffodils.

04 Key

Safe and secure, the key

symbolises two souls

locked together and two

lives becoming one.

05 Balls in a cage

or links in a chain

These symbols represent

togetherness, linked

destinies and everlasting

love. The balls or links

can refer to the desired

number of children.

01

02

03

04

LOVE IS

a Spoon

06 Horseshoe

The horseshoe

symbolises luck and

good fortune. It is given

as a sign of blessing

and goodwill – often at

milestones in life, such

as a birth or wedding.

07 Heart

When the bowl of the

spoon is heart shaped,

it signifies a full and

bounteous life. One

heart means‘my heart is

yours’,two hearts means

‘love is reciprocated’.

08 Cross or

Celtic knot

Often featuring in love

spoons given as wedding

gifts, the Celtic knot is

associated with eternal

love. A cross represents a

wish for god’s blessing.

09 Birds

Birds symbolise free-

dom and love. The dove

is the universal symbol

of peace and the stork

of new birth.

01 DAVID WILLIAMS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 02 MARK2481/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 03 THE PHOTOLIBRARY WALES/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 04 DAVID WILLIAMS/ALAMY STOCK

PHOTO ©, 05 RDIMAGES/EPICS/GETTY IMAGES © 06 THE PHOTOLIBRARY WALES/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 07 JOHN C EVANS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 08 THE PHOTOLIBRARY

WALES/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 09 REDSNAPPER/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

05

06

07

08

09

KERRY

WALKER/LONELY

PLANET

©

KERRY

WALKER/LONELY

PLANET

©

How to

Getting here Jacob

Sheep Trekking (sheep

trekking.co.uk) is located

near Crai in the Brecon

Beacons (Bannau

Brycheiniog) National

Park. See the website for

directions.

When to go February to

September, preferably

on a dry day.

How much Ninety-min-

ute treks cost adult/

child £25/20. Free for

kids under three. Book in

advance.

What to wear Water-

proof boots and clothing

for sudden downpours,

and a camera or smart-

phone for the perfect

#SheepSelfie.

10

HIKING | ADVENTURE | FAMILY

In a country of 10 million sheep, what could be more Welsh than taking

a woolly friend for a walk? It might sound bonkers, but sheep trekking is the

latest craze, with people flocking to the western Brecon Beacons to give it a

whirl. On a 220-acre organic farm, pick your favourite rare-breed sheep and

follow old drovers' tracks twisting high into the beautiful hills.

Sheep

TREKKING

92

BRECON

BEACONS

&

SOUTHEAST

WALES EXPERIENCES

KERRY

WALKER/LONELY

PLANET

©

Sheep meet and greet Ordinarily sheep bolt quicker than

you can say baa, but not here. Father and daughter team Paul

and Nicola Matthews have spent years saving rare-breed

sheep from becoming lamb chops and taming them for walks.

Choose your sheep and strike up a bond (tip: treats help).

They are all adorable: from a shaggy Blacknose sheep called

Socks to a small, soot-black Breton Ouessant called Liquorice.

Take the lead Be patient and bring bribes. Sheep go at

their own pace and (unsurprisingly) like to stop and graze.

Acknowledge each sheep’s personality: some follow like

puppies, others are born leaders, some hate the inclines,

others are puddle-dodging divas that don’t like getting their

hooves wet.

Enjoy the vi(ewe) Pick a clear day and you’ll swoon over the

views as you stroll, sheep in hand, through meadows flecked

with wildflowers and past rows of Scots pines. As you crest

the rise at 396m, look west to the fin-like swoop of Llyn-y-

Fan Fach and east to Pen-y-Fan (886m), the tallest peak in

Bannau Brycheiniog.

Stay the night The farm has a pair of historic cottages

(abercottages.com), where you can snuggle around campfires

and gather fresh eggs for breakfast. They’re green too, with

biomass heating and free electric-vehicle charging. Alterna-

tively, camp or glamp (aberglamping.co.uk) in a stargazing

lotus belle tent or dome in your own private bluebell wood.

Pictured Sheep trekking

experiences

ť

Other Woolly

Wonders

Here at Jacob Sheep Trek-

king, we have a fantastic

selection of hands-on

experiences that are

brilliant fun for the whole

family: from walking with

sheep or goats to cuddling

lambs. In April, you can

visit us for lambing days

or spring farm experienc-

es when the farm is teem-

ing with new life – chicks,

calves, goat kids and lots

of bouncy lambs. Visit

us in July for our Shear a

Sheep and Fleece to Felt

experiences. Our other

experiences are available

all year round: sheep

walking, goat walking,

sheep pampering, petite

pony walking, felting

workshops, and goat and

sheep agility classes.

 Tips by Nicola

Matthews,

Jacob Sheep

Trekking,

sheeptrekking.co.uk

@SheepTrekking

93

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&

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WALES EXPERIENCES

KERRY

WALKER/LONELY

PLANET

©

MARA

SHIVERS/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

How to

Getting here The A40

is the main east–west

road through the national

park. All of the trailheads

have car parks. Plot GPS

routes in advance as wi-fi

can be patchy.

When to go Late spring

to early autumn. Winter

can bring rain, fog and

snow, making navigation

tricky and trails slippery.

Avoid weekends and

holidays.

What to bring Water-

proofs, solid boots for

boggy conditions, an

Ordnance Survey (OS)

map and compass.

One Peak

OVER

HIKING | ADVENTURE | WILDLIFE

11

Pen-y-Fan is the highest peak in the Brecon Beacons at 886m and no

walking trip is complete without scrambling up to its summit. But come

summer, the trail to the top can be a conga-line of hikers. Give them the slip by

puffing up the lesser-known peaks that pucker up in the eastern borderlands

and wild western Black Mountain Range.

94

BRECON

BEACONS

&

SOUTHEAST

WALES EXPERIENCES

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

Ù

#

#

Ù

Ù

#

#

Ù

Ù

Ù

#

Ù

#

Ù

Ù

Ģ

Ģ

Ģ

Ģ

E

Q

E

N

G

L

A

N

D

Brecon Beacons

(Bannau Brycheiniog)

National Park

Blorenge

Fan

Brycheiniog

Pen-y-Fan

Waun

Fach

Pen

Trumau

Penderyn

Groesffordd

Pontneddfechan

Llandovery

Hay-on-Wye

Abercraf

Libanus

Sennybridge

Brecon

Ebbw

Vale

Abergavenny

Talgarth

Aberdare

Merthyr

Tydfil

Crickhowell

Castell

Dinas

Llyn-y-

Fan Fach

Ģ

0

10 km

0

5 miles

e

Llyn-y-Fan Fach This shimmering glacial cirque lake in the

Black Mountain Range swirls in Lady of the Lake myth. From

the car park just south of Llanddeusant, a 4-mile trail shadows

a babbling stream through a sheep-grazed valley to the lake,

before cresting the knife-edge ridge to open moors. For more

of a challenge, surmount nearby Fan Brycheiniog (802m).

Blorenge The 561m Blorenge pops up in the national park’s

southeast. The hike begins at the Keeper’s Pond on the B426,

five miles south of Abergavenny. It’s a moderately challenging

four-mile stomp through moorland, with dreamy views of the

Black Mountains, Beacons and Severn Estuary. At the wind-

swept top, you'll find a Bronze Age burial chamber.

Waun Fach The remote, bare, brooding peak of Waun Fach

(811m) caps off the Black Mountains. Starting at Castell

Dinas, where Norman castle ruins crown an Iron Age hill fort,

this full-day, 9-mile loop trail climbs the Dragon's Back before

cresting minor summits to the top. On the way down, Pen

Trumau has astounding views of the Bristol Channel, Brecon

Beacons and Shropshire Hills.

Craig Cerrig Gleisiad The craggy remnants of ancient

glaciation (629m) offer an impressive alternative to packed

Pen-y-Fan. The circular ridge and valley walk is roughly looped

and includes a short detour to The trig point on Fan Frynych.

Ascend the craggy, glacier-carved valley with steep cliffs and

rocky outcrops bursting with vibrant mosses, lichen, hawthorn

and bilberry.

Far left top Llyn-y-Fan Fach Far left

bottom Castell Dinas

95

4 The Beacons Way

To dive in the deep end

in the Brecon Beacons,

hook onto the Beacons

Way, which clambers

over high moor, up fin-

shaped peak and through

glacier-scoured valley. The

99-mile, eight-day stomp

traverses the national

park from Skirrid near

Abergavenny in the east

to the little village of Beth-

lehem in the west. The

route bombards you with

scenic and historic highs:

from Llanthony Priory

and Crickhowell's Table

Mountain to Pen-y-Fan,

Llyn-y-Fan Fach and Car-

reg Cennen castle. But this

is no walk in the park: you'll

need to be fit, surefooted

and have good navigation

skills, as waymarking can

be spotty.

BRECON

BEACONS

&

SOUTHEAST

WALES EXPERIENCES

DIEGO

SHRUBERRY/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

Myths &

Magic

BE SPELLBOUND BY

WALES' LEGENDARY

LANDSCAPES

Myths run deep in

South Wales, where

hill forts, misty

moors, castles and

crags point to a

rich and ancient

past. This is a land

of storytelling and

superstition firmly

rooted in Celtic

lore: from fairies

emerging from the

underworld to water

nymphs, giants,

miracle-working

physicians and King

Arthur himself.

Left Llyn-y-Fan Fach

Middle Roman fortress at Caerleon

Right Sgwd yr Eira

Lady of the Lake

Shrouded in legend, Llyn-y-Fan Fach at the foot of Black

Mountain appears in the Welsh folk epic The Mabinogion.

As the story goes, in the mid-13th century a young

farmer was gazing into the lake's waters when a beautiful

maiden emerged. He coaxed her ashore and begged her

hand in marriage. Her fairy father agreed, warning that

if he ever struck her three times she would return to the

fairy world.

The couple lived happily and raised three healthy sons.

But the spell broke when the farmer struck her thrice

and she returned to the lake forever. The three sons often

visited the lake and one day their mother appeared. She

handed them a bag containing the secrets of the lake's

medicinal plants and told them to heal the sick.

Physicians of Myddfai

At this point history merges with fact, as the sons were the

first in a long line of great and royal healers. The village of

Myddfai, on the national park's northeastern edge, sizzled

with medieval herbalist activity. Today, Pant-y-Meddygon

(Physicians' Valley), on Mynydd Myddfai, is still rich in the

bog plants, herbs and lichens that the physicians used

to make the powerful natural remedies described in the

late-14th-century Red Book of Hergest.

Beginning at the village hall, a 5-mile circular walk leads

past hedgerows where the physicians' herbs grow, up to a

bracken-cloaked moor and healing spring with Llyn-y-Fan

Fach views.

96

BRECON

BEACONS

&

SOUTHEAST

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F

LEIGHTON

COLLINS/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

CM

DIXON/PRINT

COLLECTOR/GETTY

IMAGES

©

Fairy Magic

Fforest Fawr UNESCO Global Geopark in the western Brecon

Beacons swirls with myth. Its limestone landscape is honey-

combed with subterranean passages, described as the en-

trance to the fairy underworld in Welsh literature. You can well

imagine this in the ivy-draped woodlands at Ystradfellte, where

Sgwd yr Eira (Snow Water-

fall) floats over a cliff. The

rocky gorge below, Devil’s

Glen, is supposedly haunted

by ghosts and fairies.

Fairy legend envelops the

glacial lake of Llyn Cwm

Llwch at the foot of Pen-y-

Fan, too. Here a passageway,

only open on May Day each

year, purportedly led to an

enchanted island of plenty.

King Arthur Country

Competition is stiff, but rumour has it that the Roman legionary

fort of Caerleon near Newport is the site of Camelot, Arthur's

chief court and fortress, as testified by great medieval chroni-

clers like Geoffrey of Monmouth and Chrétien de Troyes.

Arthurian legend has touched this part of Wales profoundly:

from Cwmtwrch (Valley of the Wild Boar) on the national

park's southern cusp, where Arthur apparently chased away

the wild boars that were terrorising the Brecon Beacons, to

Arthur's Stone, a mysterious Neolithic burial chamber capped

by a 25-tonne quartz boulder, said to be a pebble King Arthur

removed from his boot, on the Gower Peninsula.

Competition is stiff,

but rumour has it that

the Roman legionary

fort of Caerleon near

Newport is the site of

Camelot, Arthur's chief

court and fortress.

97

ĸ

Other Mythical

Sites in South Wales

Carreg Cennen A stone-

vaulted passage reveals the

castle's hidden cave, where a

warrior, possibly King Arthur,

lies sleeping, awaiting a call to

arms from the Welsh.

Merlin's Hill Bryn Myrddin

near Nantgaredig is apparent-

ly where Merlin the Magician

was imprisoned by his duplic-

itous lover, the Lady of the

Lake. Listen for his wailings

and clanking chains.

Skirrid: 'Holy Mountain'

Legend tells how the dramatic

landslide on Skirrid's northern

flank was caused by an earth-

quake or lightning when Jesus

was crucified. Others say it's

the footprint of a giant who

leapt across from Sugar Loaf.

BRECON

BEACONS

&

SOUTHEAST

WALES ESSAY

`

`

`

Ą

R

i

v

e

r

W

y

e

Hay

Castle

Belm

o

n

t

R

d

Ch

urc

h

S

t

Oxford

Rd

B

ro

a

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S

t

Bell

Bank

Bear

St

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St

Hig

h

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B

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o

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R

d

Forest

Rd

Addyman

Books

Hay Cinema

Bookshop

Richard Booth's

Bookshop

Drover

Cycles

0

200 m

0

0.1 miles

e

98

BRECON

BEACONS

&

SOUTHEAST

WALES EXPERIENCES

Hay-on-Wye is an unexpected

literary wonderland: one of Britain's

most culturally progressive towns

tucked away in the lonely Welsh hills.

Secondhand bookshops and the world-

famous Hay Festival have put this

Georgian market town on the map:

proof that even in a fast-paced digital

age, nothing beats opening up a dusty

novel or sharing stories on a picnic rug.

Heaven is a book Hay-on-

Wye owes its literary cachet

to Richard Booth, the original

self-styled, crown-wearing

‘King of Hay’, who opened

a secondhand bookshop in

the old fire station in 1961,

declaring Hay an independent

kingdom. A post-capitalist

maverick and book-mad

entrepreneur, he bought

the medieval castle, fought

against waves of big business

and radically diversified the

rural economy. His spirit lives

on today in the town's 20-plus

independent bookshops.

It’s a book-hunter’s dream,

whether you're browsing the

vast, immaculately cata-

logued shelves of Richard

Booth’s Bookshop, finding

rare, out-of-print tomes in Ad-

dyman Books, or sniffing out

obscure titles at Hay Cinema

Bookshop. For something

more serendipitous, visit the

honesty bookshop in the

castle ruins.

Festival origins When the

Florence family dreamed up

the Hay Festival around a

kitchen table in 1988, they

could never have imagined

it would reach such strato-

spheric heights. This was

How to

Getting here Hay-on-Wye is just off the A438

between Brecon and Hereford. The nearest train

station is in Hereford; from here you can take the

festival bus. Avoid busy car parks by renting a bike

at Drover Cycles (drovercycles.co.uk) instead.

When to go The Hay Festival happens over 11 days

in late May and early June.

How much does it cost? Entry to the Hay Festival

site is free. Ticketed events are approximately £10

to £30 per person and an Online Festival Pass is

also available. Book well ahead.

Literary

HAY

CULTURE | LITERATURE | FESTIVALS

12

99

LUCAS

VALLECILLOS/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

BRECON

BEACONS

&

SOUTHEAST

WALES EXPERIENCES

Above Richard Booth's Bookshop

Wales’ cultural big bang: an

event attracting the major

thinkers, writers, artists,

musicians and comedians of

the age – the 'Woodstock of

the Mind', as Bill Clinton once

put it. Politics, poetry, literary

discussion, workshops, book

signings, concerts and kids’

activities – the festival aims

to inspire, generate ideas

and ponder life’s biggest

questions. While authors and

speakers like Salman Rush-

die, VS Naipaul and George

Monbiot get all the fuss, the

festival has stayed true to its

original aim of giving a voice

to emerging talent.

6 Top Festival Tips

Discover Discovering a new

writer or performer is one of

the great joys of Hay Festival,

so leave space in your

schedule to pick something

last-minute and unexpected

to watch each day.

Relax Come to the site early

to enjoy the atmosphere;

there’s great local food and

drink on offer and lots of

free pop-up events in the

garden spaces to enjoy, plus

hundreds of deckchairs

for lounging and reading in

the sun.

Explore Make friends in the

event queues; you already

have at least one thing in

common. And build in time

to explore the town and its

surrounds; Hay-on-Wye is

the star of every festival

we host.

 Tips by

Christopher Bone,

publicity director

for Hay Festival,

hayfestival.com, @chrispbone

MORGAN

DEVINE/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

WHITCOMBERD/GETTY

IMAGES

©

How to

Getting here Crickhowell

is on the main A40 road

that runs through the

national park. The X43 bus

runs to Brecon (27 min-

utes) and Abergavenny

(16 minutes).

When to go Spring and

summer for hill walking

and festival fun.

By the river Keep an eye

out for the romantic ruins

of Crickhowell's Norman

motte-and-bailey castle

and elegant 17th-century

stone bridge, with 12

arches on one side and 13

on the other.

The Fantasy

VILLAGE

CULTURE | HIKING | PRETTY VILLAGES

13

If ever a town were to make you want to relocate to rural Wales,

Crickhowell would be it. Embosomed in the river-woven Usk Valley, with the

Black Mountains and Brecon Beacons sweeping up on either side, the town

rewinds time. Its old-fashioned, candy-coloured high street gives way to trails

climbing high into patchwork-quilted hills said to have inspired Tolkien.

100

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WALES EXPERIENCES

#

#

#

#

#

Ù

Ù

Ù

Ù

Ù

B

G

G

Black

Mountains

Brecon Beacons

(Bannau Brycheiniog)

National Park

B

r

e

c

o

n

C

a

n

a

l

R

i

v

e

r

U

s

k

Crug Hywel

(Table Mountain)

Llangynidr

Govilon

Llangattock

Crickhowell

Tretower

Redwood

Tree

Llangattock

Escarpment

Neuadd

Ģ

B

6

0

2 km

0

1 mile

e

Š

Tolkien's

Crickhowell

Several stories link Tolkien

to Crickhowell. The Usk

Valley, with its hedgerows

and neat fields, is said to

have inspired the Shire.

Is it possible Crickhowell

became Crickhollow, from

where the hobbits left on

their great adventure?

Many Tolkienesque sites

are within an easy circular

walk of town. For example,

there is a tunnel through

a hedge leading into an

old forest (just like in The

Fellowship of the Ring) and

Table Mountain could

easily be mistaken for the

hill at Bag End. Along the

banks of the Monmouth

and Brecon Canal is a

giant Redwood Tree some

say inspired Treebeard,

and the caves along the

towering Llangattock

Escarpment could easily

be the realm of dwarves!

 Insights from

Kevin Walker,

mountain and

hill-walking

navigation guide,

mountain-activities.com

@kwmountainactivities

Best table in town Though it’s a far cry from Cape Town, Crick-

howell has its very own Table Mountain: 451m Crug Hywel. The

4.5-mile, three-hour circular ramble to the flat-topped hump

heads through forested dingle and over stream, stile and mead-

ow to an Iron Age hill fort, with ravishing views of the Brecon

Beacons and Black Mountains. At Crickhowell Walking Festi-

val (crickhowellfestival.com) on the second week in March, the

super-fit take on the Table Mountain Challenge, endeavouring to

run or walk up it five times in 10 hours – phew!

Green rhythms Crickhowell gets its green groove on over four

days in August when the muddy-boot-stomping, electro-beat-

filled, ultra-eco Green Man Festival (greenman.net) comes

to a nearby field. It’s a family-friendly, back-to-nature mash-up

of indie acts performing on solar-powered stages, comedy,

literature, film, science workshops, kids activities and riverside

camping. There's also live-in-vehicle camping and accessible

camping, which require pre-booking.

Historic escapes You can almost forget the century we live in

while sipping real ales under creaky oak beams or snuggling

up in a four-poster bed at Bear Hotel (bearhotel.co.uk). On

the old horse-drawn coach route from London to West Wales,

Crickhowell’s 600-year-old pub is ablaze with hanging baskets

in summer. For a boutique stay, the Neuadd is an upscale B&B

where you can walk out the door and instantly discover winding

hill trails and rugged paths leading to the Black Mountains,

cascading falls and heritage canals.

Far left top Green Man Festival

Far left bottom Crug Hywel

101

BRECON

BEACONS

&

SOUTHEAST

WALES EXPERIENCES

PRODUCE | WINE | GASTRONOMY

14

An exciting flurry of

producers has put South Wales

firmly on the gastronomymap.

Excelling in everything from single-

estate tea, coffee, craft beer, gin and

wine to smoked fish, venison and

coal-mine matured cheese, each

of these rising stars has a unique,

surprising story to tell.

Food at the

SOURCE

102

BRECON

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&

SOUTHEAST

WALES EXPERIENCES

GABRIELLA

JACKSON

©

H Rarebit Treats

Dutch owner Roos pulled a

rabbit out of a hat when she

transformed a dilapidated

schoolhouse into the

International Welsh Rarebit

Centre in Deffynog, a cool

cafe, gallery and cultural hub,

serving imaginative Welsh

rarebits (toasted bread

topped with cheese sauce):

from feisty Mexican numbers

to spring rarebits with

Caerphilly cheese and chives.

TOM

PARSONS/LLANERCH

VINEYARD

HOTEL

©

THE

INTERNATIONAL

WELSH

RAREBIT

CENTRE

©

Left Welsh rarebit, International Welsh

Rarebit Centre Above left Llanerch Vineyard

(p104) Above right Peterston Tea Estate tea

Time for Tea

Looking at the drizzly hills in the Vale of Glam-

organ,‘tea plantation’might not immediately

spring to mind, unless you are Lucy George, that

is. Back in 2013, Lucy pinned her hopes on grow-

ing from seed Wales’first handcrafted, single-

estate tea, using an ethical agroforestry ap-

proach. And her dream came true. Her mellow,

aromatically nuanced black, green and oolong

teas have snapped up Great Taste awards and

are stocked by Fortnum & Mason. Sip the likes of

pale amber Lloer Moon Oolong tea, with notes of

chocolate and tropical fruits as you visit the Pe-

terston Tea Estate (peterstontea.com) for a tea

tour and tasting or tea-processing masterclass.

The Grape Unknown

Once upon a time, the idea of Welsh wine would

have raised eyebrows – if not disbelieving

How to

Getting here The

M4, A4042 and A40

provide road access.

Trains run along the

Vale of Glamorgan line

from Barry to Bridgend.

Abergavenny also has a

handy train station.

When to go The food

is terrific year-round,

but autumn is a proper

feast, with venison in

season, the grape har-

vest in full swing and

the Abergavenny Food

Festival in town.

Plan ahead Book tours

and tastings well in

advance – especially in

summer.

103

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&

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WALES EXPERIENCES

guffaws. But as the climate warms and

wine-growing terroir shifts north, viticulture here

is having a moment. Just off the M4 northwest

of Cardiff, Llanerch Vineyard (llanerch.co.uk)

punches high with Cariad wines made from har-

dy cool-climate grapes, including a tart, citrusy

dry white and a summer berry-infused sparkling

rosé. There are vineyard tours and tastings, you

can stay overnight in plush rooms and even join

in the October harvest. Don’t stop there: go for

a self-guided walk of the vines and tasting at

Sugar Loaf Vineyards (sugarloafvineyards.

co.uk) near Abergavenny, or give vegan wines

a whirl with a tour and tasting at White Castle

Vineyard (facebook.com/Welshwines) in the

gentle borderlands slightly east.

Smoke & Fire

On the fringes of the pretty Brecon Beacons

village of Crickhowell, Black Mountains Smok-

ery (smoked-foods.co.uk) is the brainchild of

Jo and Jonathan Carthew, who care deeply

104

Ŧ

Abergavenny

Food Festival

What began as the gamble

of two farmers to resus-

citate the ailing farming

industry and restore faith

in British produce in 1999

has mushroomed into the

UK’s biggest food festival.

Set in the Victorian market

hall, high street and castle

grounds, Abergavenny food

Festival (abergavennyfood

festival.com), on the third

weekend in September, lures

a star-studded line-up of

producers, chefs, speakers

and celebs to this lovely

market town. Hundreds of

stalls, street-food stands

and chef demos dive deeply

into Welsh food and drink –

from craft beer to Cardigan

Bay lobster, Pembrokeshire

chilli sauces to Anglesey

sea salt. Tickets sell like hot

cakes, so get in quick.

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E N G L A N D

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(Bannau Brycheiniog)

National Park

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Porthcawl

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Tea Estate

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Company

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Mountains

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Venison

Centre

Big Pit

National

Coal Museum

International

Welsh Rarebit

Centre

0

10 km

0

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e

TIM

WOODIER/ABERGAVENNY

FOOD

FESTIVAL

©

THE

BLAENAFON

CHEDDAR

COMPANY

LTD

©

about sustainability and traceability. Besides 10,000

sides of salmon a year, they gently smoke chicken,

duck, quail, trout and haddock over Welsh oak,

and make pates and terrines. For insight, visit their

shop. Heading west of here brings you to the Welsh

Venison Centre (beaconsfarmshop.co.uk), where

you can stock up on outdoor-reared game, lamb and

guinea fowl. Afterwards, watch deer and sheep graze

the fields from the cafe terrace, while munching on a

gourmet venison burger topped with Welsh cheddar.

Mining Cheese

On the southern cusp of the Brecon Beacons, UNE-

SCO World Heritage Blaenavon stokes the flames of

Wales’industrial heritage with its Big Pit National

Coal Museum, where exhibits are displayed in

mining galleries and at pithead baths. Back in the

day, cheddar (or 'miners’wedding cake') would have

been in pretty much every miner’s lunchbox. Susan

Fiander-Woodhouse of the Blaenafon Cheddar

Company (chunkofcheese.co.uk) saw the ideal con-

ditions for maturing cheddar in Big Pit’s dark depths

and came up with the novel idea of ageing Pwll Mawr

90m below ground at temperatures between 10.5°C

and 12°C at the bottom of the mine shaft. Her shop

also sells thoroughly Welsh cheddars like raisin-

studded Bara Brith, onion-and-cider Taffy Apple, and

fiery chilli-mustard Dragon’s Breath.

Left Abergavenny Food Festival Below

Blaenafon Cheddar Company Taffy

Apple cheese

105

BRECON

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&

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WALES EXPERIENCES

Behind the Wheel in the

VALE OF EWYAS

MOUNTAINS | CULTURE | ROAD TRIP

Diving deep into the Black Mountains, this road through

the time-lost Vale of Ewyas whips past wild peaks, heathery

moors, romantically ruined abbeys and sheep-bobbled hills,

before snaking steeply up the Gospel Pass: Wales' highest road.

Expect beauty and history on every bend.

15

Trip Notes

Getting here Follow the old mountain road 35 miles north of Abergavenny

to Hay-on-Wye. It's mostly single track. Be prepared to reverse and dodge

dallying sheep.

When to go Spring to autumn. The pass is steep, exposed and sometimes

snow-covered in winter.

Lunch stop Fuel up for the drive at the Skirrid Mountain Inn (skirridmountain

inn.co.uk), a 900-year-old boozer claiming to be Wales' oldest. Shakespeare

once nursed a pint by the inglenook fireplace here.

MARTIN

FOWLER/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

106

B

Sleeping on

the Black Hill

Taking its name from

apparitions in the

1880s, the Vision

Farm near Capel-y-

Ffin inspired Bruce

Chatwin's novel On

the Black Hill. Father

Ignatius of Jesus then

built a monastery

for his extreme

neo-Benedictine

brotherhood here in

the late 19th century.

Now you can stay in

charmingly converted

monastic digs (capel

monastery.co.uk).

BRECON

BEACONS

&

SOUTHEAST

WALES EXPERIENCES

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FROM LEFT: DAVID HUGHES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

CHARLES HAWES/GETTY IMAGES ©

Clamber up the

Skirrid, gateway to

the Black Mountains.

The 4-mile hike weaves

through ancient broadleaf

woods to the wind-buffeted

ridge, with superb views

(pictured far left) over

chequered hills to the

glittering Severn Estuary.

01

Round out in Hay-on-Wye

of literary festival fame, perhaps

spending the night in a treetop safari

tent at By the Wye (bythewye.uk).

05

The road steepens

and narrows, passing

through moors as

it crests the 549m

Gospel Pass. The

views are magnificent:

Hay Bluff to the right,

Twmpa to the left and

the Wye Valley beyond.

04

Hunkering by the river in the

hamlet of Capel-y-Ffin, a couple

of miles north, whitewashed St

Mary's Chapel, with its lopsided

bellcote, is one of Britain's

smallest churches.

03

A 12-mile drive north

shadows the River Honddu

to reach Augustinian abbey

Llanthony Priory, its

ruined nave and cloisters

exposed to the sky. Turner

captured their romance in

his 1794 painting.

02

Romance in the

WYE VALLEY

RIVER | CULTURE | WALKING TOUR

The valley that sent Wordsworth, Coleridge and Turner

into romantic raptures reveals its true glory when you head over

moor, meadow and wooded mountain on foot. The 136-mile Wye

Valley Walk brings together the lyrical beauty and rich history of

the borderlands in one epic hike.

16

Trip Notes

Getting here Public transport serves the Lower Wye Valley (wyevalleyaonb.

org.uk), but you'll need a lift to reach the trailhead at Plynlimon. The nearest

train stations are Chepstow, Hereford and Builth Road.

When to go Spring for bluebells and blossom, summer for wildflower

meadows, autumn for colourful foliage. The trail gets muddy and slippery

in winter.

Birdwatching Look to the skies and river banks to spot buzzards, peregrine

falcons, red kites, kingfishers and herons.

MICHAEL

ROBERTS/GETTY

IMAGES

©

108

Ģ

Canoeing

the Wye

One of Britain's most

stunning and easily

navigable rivers, the

Wye unspools in all

its lyrical glory when

you take to its waters

by canoe, kayak

(pictured) or stand-up

paddleboard for a

day or two. All major

towns en route rent

out equipment and

some offer multi-day

guided tours.

BRECON

BEACONS

&

SOUTHEAST

WALES EXPERIENCES

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TRAVELLIGHT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Start at the source of the Wye at

the isolated, wind-buffeted, 752m

summit of Plynlimon, the highest

peak in the Cambrian Mountains.

From here the trail scrambles south

over rough moorland to Rhayader

and Builth Wells.

01

The final leg threads through

the dense woodland of the

Lower Wye Gorge on narrow,

occasionally steep paths, visiting

Tintern and its romantically ruined

abbey, before swinging south to

fortress-topped Chepstow.

05

The path clambers steeply over

hills and narrow valleys out of Ross-

on-Wye. Climb Symonds Yat Rock

for wraparound views of the river.

Then it’s on past striking limestone

cliffs and forests to Monmouth.

04

Woodlands, black-

and-white half-timbered

villages and orchards

are a rural delight on the

next stretch to Ross-

on-Wye, but expect a

few hilly scrambles.

03

on

From literary showstopper Hay-

on-Wye, the walk becomes gentler as

it picks its way through mellow villag-

es and apple orchards and over hills

to Hereford, with its mighty cathedral

and UNESCO-listed Mappa Mundi, an

extraordinary medieval world map.

02

H Flavours of the Land

Walnut Tree

£££

On the fringes of Abergavenny, this Michelin-

starred wonder is headed by chef Shaun Hill,

who delivers daily menus with panache and

outstanding seasonal produce, including local

beef and game, British fish and seafood, and

exquisite French cheeses.

Felin Fach Griffin

££

Among Wales’loveliest country pubs, this

beamed, fire-warmed beauty sits just north of

Brecon. It raids its kitchen garden and nearby

farms to whip up season-led dishes like cod

paired with pickled pak choi, clams and black

garlic purée.

Off-Grid Gourmet

££

All Hugh Sawyer needs to knock up a gourmet

meal is canvas, smoke and fire. Setting up camp

in a field a couple of miles north of Hay-on-Wye,

he wows with crafted feasts of Welsh produce.

Whitebrook

£££

Chef Chris Harrod excels in crafting Miche-

lin-star dishes from the bountiful locale. With

seasonal tasting menus that feature the best

of Welsh produce – think Wye Valley asparagus

and game – the restaurant has earned a Green

Star for its commitment to sustainability.

ħ Special Lunch Spots

Talgarth Mill

£

Housed in 17th-century Talgarth Mill, this cafe

uses its own stoneground flour to bake tasty

cakes and bread, served with gourmet coffee.

Old Electric Shop

£

Hay's hippest hangout is this old curiosity shop

of a cafe, crammed with vintage clothes, furni-

ture, crafts and books. It has a boho vibe and a

blackboard menu of soups, salads and curries

made with locally sourced ingredients.

Hours

£

In Brecon Cathedral Close, this charismatic indie

bookshop rustles up excellent lunches, from

quiche to ham and chutney sandwiches.

Carreg Cennen Tearoom

£

Just below Carreg Cennen castle, this converted

barn tearoom impresses with homemade cakes

and the farm-owner's longhorn beef on the

menu as cottage pie and beef salad.

Hills

££

Owain and Emily revamped a caravan site into

this ultra-cool burger joint near Brecon, working

flame-grilled magic on gourmet specials like

mango BBQ pulled-pork cheeseburger.

B Epic Sleeps

Angel Hotel

In the heart of Abergavenny, this handsomely

converted Georgian coaching inn has chic

rooms, afternoon tea, a fine-dining restaurant

and its own bakery.

Llanthony Castaway

Hidden in a wooded valley, this lovingly convert-

ed railway carriage offers a secluded, off-grid

stay with no wi-fi or signal. Switch off and enjoy a

romantic night under big starry skies.

Peterstone Court

On the banks of the Usk, this Georgian manor

brims with period charm and Brecon Beacons

views. The spa is a huge draw, with a heated

outdoor pool and organic treatments.

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

110

BRECON

BEACONS

&

SOUTHEAST

WALES REVIEWS

Priory Hotel Caerleon

It's not every night you get the chance to sleep

in a 12th-century Cistercian monastery. This

hotel in Roman-rooted Caerleon is crammed

with history and filled with gracious, antique-

sprinkled rooms.

Ē Outdoor Escapades

Devil's Pulpit

Hike from Tintern Abbey to this limestone crag

on the eastern side of the river, with a soul-stir-

ring view over the abbey.

Sugar Loaf

There are higher mountains in Wales, sure, but

few are more distinctive than the conical Sugar

Loaf (596m). A 4.5-mile trail clambers up to the

craggy summit over heathery moors.

Black Mountains Cycle Centre

Test your nerve on downhill and freeriding trails

at this MTB gravity park in the Black Mountains.

Talybont Reservoir

Rimmed by forest and hills, this glittering

reservoir ramps up adventure with hiking,

mountain biking, birdwatching and star-

gazing. A 5-mile circular walk leads from

Talybont-on-Usk to the reservoir and back.

Dan-yr-Ogof National Showcaves

Fforest Fawr's limestone plateau is riddled with

some of Britain's largest cave systems. Most are

off limits, but you can explore the high-domed,

waterfall-fed Cathedral Cave and Bone Cave at

this fascinating complex.

e Time Travel

Chepstow Castle

Perching atop limestone cliffs overhanging the

river, this is one of Britain's oldest castles, dating

to the 1060s. There are imposing towers, battle-

ments and wall walks to explore.

St Mary's Church

Don't be fooled by the unassuming facade:

Abergavenny's majestic stone church has been

described as the 'Westminster Abbey of South

Wales' because of its remarkable treasury of

aristocratic tombs.

Caerphilly Castle

With its riot of turrets and towers, lake-rimmed

Caerphilly was Britain's second-biggest castle

when Gilbert de Clare had it built in the 13th

century. Every inch the fantasy fortress, it has

lost none of its wow factor over the years.

Trellech

When archaeology graduate Stuart Wilson

spent his life savings on buying a muddy Welsh

field, people thought he was bonkers. But he

unearthed a lost medieval city that was, at its

13th-century zenith, bigger than Cardiff.

Garn Goch

Astonishing views of Black Mountain country

unfurl at the top of one of the largest Iron Age

sites in Wales. These immense piles of rubble

were once mighty 10m-high ramparts.

Chepstow Castle

CHARLES

F.

GIBSON/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

BRECON

BEACONS

&

SOUTHEAST

WALES REVIEWS

111

SWANSEA,

THE GOWER &

CARMARTHENSHIRE

BEACH | NATURE | FOOD

 Trip Builder (p114)

 Practicalities (p116)

 Discovering

Dylan (p118)

 Swansea Bay

Victuals (p122)

 Bounty of Sea

& Soil (p124)

 The Prehistoric

Gower (p126)

 Big Beach

Bike Tour (p128)

 Botanic Garden

Meander (p130)

 Carmarthenshire's

Castles (p132)

 Coracle

Catches (p134)

 Brechfa Forest

Forays (p136)

 Llyn Brianne

& Beyond (p138)

 Listings (p140)

BILLY

STOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

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P E M B R O K E S H I R E

Caldey

Carmarthen

Bay

Barafundle

Bay

Bristol

Channel

Pembrokeshire

Coast National

Park

Cwmduad

Laugharne

St Clears

Llandysul

Rhossili

Abergwili

Henllan

Whitland

Llansteffan

Port

Eynon

Burry

Port

Kidwelly

Pembroke

Haverfordwest

Pembroke

Dock

Carmarthen

Q F

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10 km

0

5 miles

e

114

SWANSEA,

THE

GOWER

&

CARMARTHENSHIRE BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

Hit the region's beguiling beaches

cycling the Gower and South

Carmarthenshire coast (p128)

ń 35min from Swansea

South Wales' least-explored region is defined by

expansive sandy beaches, estuaries and fertile farmland

that rear a roster of local culinary treats; by strong

links with the nation's best-known poet and writer,

Dylan Thomas; and by being the Industrial Revolution's

birthplace. Stop and be spellbound by its subtle sorcery.

SWANSEA,

THE GOWER &

CARMARTHENSHIRE

Trip Builder

Be humbled heading off-piste

into the poignant prehistory

of the Gower (p126)

ń 25min from Swansea

Gawk at great medieval fortresses

while gallivanting around rural

Carmarthenshire (p132)

ń 30min from Carmarthen

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P O R T

T A L B O T

P O W Y S

C A R M A R T H E N S H I R E

Gower

Peninsula

Cambrian

Mountains

Burry

Inlet

Brecon Beacons

(Bannau Brycheiniog)

National Park

Pen-

y-Fan

Llanarthne

Llanwrtyd

Wells

Cynghordy

Llangathen

Llandovery

Llangadog

Abercraf

Pumsaint

Parkmill

Rhosmaen

Mumbles

Llandeilo

Neath

Aberdare

Clydach

Pontarddulais

Swansea

Llanelli

Rhandirmwyn

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: LEIGHTON COLLINS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DARRYL HUGHES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DAVID PIMBOROUGH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Sample country pubs while

biking and hiking through

huge, hypnotic Brechfa

Forest (p136)

ń 25min from Carmarthen

Discover the legacy of Wales'

best-known bard Dylan Thomas

around Swansea (p118)

Ň 20min from city centre

Road-trip around the

ravishing moor- and

forest-surrounded lake

of Llyn Brianne (p138)

ń 1hr from

Carmarthen

Slip from city to

Gower countryside

while sampling the

excellent, endemic

cuisine of Swansea

Bay (p122)

Ġ 5min from

city centre

Nurture your horticultural

side at the exceptional

National Botanic Garden

of Wales (p130)

ń 15min from Carmarthen

CERI

BREEZE/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

116

Train Connections are decent.

Mainline services link Swansea

to Llanelli, Kidwelly, Ferryside

(for the ferry to Llansteffan) and

Carmarthen. The Heart of Wales

Line has daily services linking

Swansea, Llanelli, Llandybïe (for

the National Botanic Garden of

Wales), Llandeilo and Llandovery

(for launching road trips around

Llyn Brianne).

Bus Among the most depend-

able services are those from

Carmarthen to Laugharne, and

from Carmarthen to Llansteffan.

For other destinations mentioned

in this chapter, buses are mostly

impractical.

Bike A joy for exploring the

glorious coastline of the Gower

and South Carmarthenshire,

which has excellent coastal cycle

paths; use mountain bikes for the

Carmarthenshire uplands.

GETTING AROUND

seafood dinner

£30

cross-region

train £10.50

castle entry

£6.50

Practicalities

WHEN TO GO

HOW MUCH

FOR A...

APR–JUN

Spring flowers brighten

Gower marshland and

Carmarthenshire countryside.

OCT–DEC

Wettest season; Christmas

markets enliven Swansea

and other towns.

JUL–SEP

Hottest weather, biggest

crowds; atmospheric music

festival in Gower churches.

JAN–MAR

Chilly, wet, windy;

Swansea stays lively;

Gower surfing is excellent.

SWANSEA,

THE

GOWER

&

CARMARTHENSHIRE FIND

YOUR

FEET

ARRIVING

Cardiff Airport Located 41 miles southeast of

Swansea, it directly serves Edinburgh (UK), Dub-

lin (Ireland) and European destinations including

Paris and Amsterdam. From the airport train

station, trains run to Cardiff Central (35 minutes)

from where there are trains to Swansea.

Swansea Regional nexus, with trains to/from

Cardiff, Carmarthen, London and Manchester.

There are some buses onto the Gower from here.

Carmarthen is another useful hub.

TOP:

KERRY

WALKER/LONELY

PLANET

©

BOTTOM:

WILLIAM

PERUGINI/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

EATING & DRINKING

The unique taste of Gower salt marsh lamb comes from the beasts

grazing on salt marsh rich in samphire, sea lavender, thrift and

sorrel. The lamb has PGI status, which is equivalent to the EU's

Protected Designation of Origin, awarded to food and drink with

strong character, heritage and provenance. Sewin is a delicacy

served by a few establishments between May and July. This

succulent sea trout is caught by coracle fisherfolk with a method

pre-dating the Roman conquest (p134).

Best coffee

Must-try seaside pub

Coaltown Coffee (p140)

Britannia Inn (p140)

MONEY

Save money on accommodation by staying in the

region's profusion of campsites and glamp-sites.

Swansea, Llanelli, Carmarthen and Ammanford have

banks aplenty. Elsewhere, they're scarce.

WHERE TO STAY

Swansea offers smart city hotels, the Gower has the best selection of

campsites and all across the region are lovely country stays in manor

houses and farmhouses.

CADW MEMBERSHIP

Many of this region's historic sites

are managed by CADW and quite

a few charge admission. Consider

an annual Cadw membership and

enjoy unlimited visits to more

than 130 castles, abbeys, forts

and burial chambers.

CONNECT & FIND YOUR WAY

Wi-fi Accommodation and most

places to eat offer free wi-fi.

Swansea, most of the Gower and

South Carmarthenshire have

consistent 4G; the signal fades

though in rural Carmarthenshire.

Navigation For info on Swansea

and the Gower, there are Visitor

Information Points in several key

locations (visitswanseabay.com/

(visitor-information-points) and

Parkmill's Gower Heritage Centre.

117

SWANSEA,

THE

GOWER

&

CARMARTHENSHIRE FIND

YOUR

FEET

Town/Village

Atmosphere

Swansea

Wales’ best choice of restaurants,

amenities and transport connections outside

Cardiff. Central sleeps are unexceptional.

Rhossili/

Llangennith

Serene villages on the Gower’s best beaches.

Both get crowded, plus you need your own

wheels to arrive.

Llandeilo

Charming town; central Carmarthenshire

location. Accommodation limited.

Laugharne

Cultured coastal town near amazing beaches.

No weekend public transport.

CULTURE | MUSEUM | CITY LIFE

17

Few towns wear the heritage

of their wordsmiths as brightly as

Swansea does Dylan Thomas'. The

bard is Wales' best-known writer:

a consequence of both his literary

talents and colourful hard-drinking

lifestyle. This literary pilgrimage

visits the places that inspired him

and the locations through which

his larger-than-life legacy lives on.

Discovering

DYLAN

118

SWANSEA,

THE

GOWER

&

CARMARTHENSHIRE EXPERIENCES

CARMSCOUNCIL

©

ı Literary Laugharne

The Thomas family lived in

Laugharne between 1949

and the poet's death in 1953.

Formerly a somnolent estuary

town, Laugharne is now a

vibrant destination. Discover

the coast-hugging Dylan

Thomas Boathouse, the

family's home, walk the Dylan

Thomas Birthday Walk or

experience the Laugharne

Weekend, a springtime arts

and literature festival.

GOWER

GOLD

PHOTOGRAPHY/DYLAN

THOMAS

BIRTHPLACE

©

RICHARD

WHITCOMBE/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

Left Worms Head (p121) Above left

Dylan's bedroom, Dylan Thomas Birthplace

Above right Dylan Thomas Boathouse

Uptown Boy

Open the poet's page-turning story at the

beginning. Dylan Thomas Birthplace

(5 Cwmdonkin Dr) in Swansea's Uplands

neighbourhood is where the man lived for

his first 23 years and wrote two-thirds of his

work. The late-Edwardian residence has been

refurbished to look as it would have done in

1914, when Thomas was born. Most visitors'

favourite room is Dylan's own. As house own-

er Geoff Haden explains, 'It's small − barely

enough room for a bed and a desk − but it's a

room where you know that, were it yours and

you closed the door, you could get work done

there.' Guides give perceptive tours, and

die-hard Dylan fans can delve deeper into his

life through additional bespoke experiences,

such as taking afternoon tea, which Haden

How to

Getting here Swansea

receives regular trains

from Cardiff, London

and Manchester.

When to go Dylan

Thomas Centre,

Wednesday to Sunday;

in-depth tours of Dylan

Thomas sites, Sunday

and Wednesday; Worms

Head, low tide; other

sites, year-round.

Getting around From

central Swansea to

Uplands, grab a taxi or

take the Cwmdonkin

Circular (bus 5) from

Swansea Bus Station.

Alternatively, walk:

it's under 4 miles

from the train station

to Uplands to the

Maritime Quarter. For

Worms Head, your own

wheels are best.

119

SWANSEA,

THE

GOWER

&

CARMARTHENSHIRE EXPERIENCES

assures the cooks try to make as much as

possible like the one Mrs Thomas would

have served − with scones and Victoria

sponge! You can also book the whole house

for an overnight stay. Nearby, resplendent

Cwmdonkin Park was the backdrop for

many of Thomas' childhood memories, while

he enjoyed his first pint (and several others

thereafter) at Uplands Tavern (greeneking

pubs.co.uk).

Dockland Discovery

Down in the smart Maritime Quarter, clock

the Dylan Thomas statue (he's sitting

down, looking wistfully out towards the

marina), catch a show at Dylan Thomas

Theatre (dylanthomastheatre.org.uk),

where the writer was once one of the troupe,

or visit the Dylan Thomas Centre (dylan

thomas.com) with its permanent exhibition

on his life and work. Then head into the

120

6

Dylan Thomas'

Birthplace

Dylan was the boy that never

grew up. His work reflects

this longing for childhood.

That's why his childhood

home is so important. After

we began restoration of the

house, it took us one year to

research how we should do

so as faithfully as possible

to its appearance in 1914.

Luckily we got to speak to

the family's maid, Emily

(a girl when working for

Dylan's family and 90 when

we spoke): she remembered

so many intimate domestic

details.

Conveying those personal

details of Dylan's family

is a big part of the visitor

experience at Dylan Thomas

Birthplace. We feel that it's

more a living home than

a museum.

 By Geoff Haden,

owner and restorer of Dylan

Thomas Birthplace, Swansea,

dylanthomasbirthplace.com

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Swansea

Train Station

Kardomah

Cafe

Dylan

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Centre

Dylan Thomas

Birthplace

Cwmdonkin

Park

No Sign

Wine Bar

Uplands

Tavern

Dylan

Thomas

Statue

Dylan Thomas

Theatre

0

500 m

0

0.25 miles

e

DAVID

ANGEL/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

TRAVELLIGHT/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

city centre a way to have a coffee at Kardomah

Cafe (kardomahcafe.com) on Portland St. This

city institution has been around since 1957 in

its current location: its old location was where

Dylan and his literary contemporaries used to

meet up and debate ideas. And save time for

a tipple in No Sign Wine Bar (nosignwinebar.

com) on Wind St: this is Swansea's oldest pub,

dating back to 1690. It was somewhere Thomas

and his contemporaries in the Kardomah Gang

could often be found drinking.

Journey's End

The bard often holidayed at the Gower’s Rhossili

Bay, 17 miles west of Swansea, sometimes

walking there from Uplands. He particularly loved

Worm’s Head, the last rocky outcrop before

the open ocean, describing it poignantly in his

story Who Do You Wish Was with Us? Thomas

sometimes got cut off by the tides: make sure

you don't end up doing the same!

Left Dylan Thomas Birthplace

Below John Doubleday's statue of

Dylan Thomas

121

SWANSEA,

THE

GOWER

&

CARMARTHENSHIRE EXPERIENCES

ECONOMIC

IMAGES/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

PHILLIP

ROBERTS/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

How to

Getting there Trains

arrive in Swansea direct

from Manchester, London

and Cardiff; walking out-

side the station plonks

you right in the foodie

city centre.

When to go Eateries list-

ed here are mostly open

year-round, although a

sunny day enhances the

appeal of seaside spots.

A lot of great food has a

season: September to

April for shellfish and

June to December for

salt-marsh-grazed lamb.

Timing's everything

Opening hours can vary;

check in advance.

Swansea Bay

VICTUALS

FOOD | CITY | BEACH

18

On holiday and hungry? From the diverse culinary hub of Swansea through

to the swanky seaside suburb of Mumbles and the Gower's Michelin-starred

restaurant, this region advances appetites. Sensational seafood tinges menus,

but prodigious producers and Wales’ largest indoor market further enshrine a

distinguished, adventurous and delightfully under-the-radar eating scene.

122

SWANSEA,

THE

GOWER

&

CARMARTHENSHIRE EXPERIENCES

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Bay

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Bay

Bishopston

Penclawdd

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Parkmill

Penmaen

Swansea

Crofty

6 ņ

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e

Central treats Get your post-arrival pick-me-up in central

Swansea’s most fabled coffee stop, Kardomah Cafe. An insti-

tution for over a century, its former location was frequented by

Dylan Thomas (he and his fellow cafe-goers were nicknamed

the ‘Kardomah Gang’), and this 1950s reincarnation retains

its bygone charm. It roasts excellent coffee, too. Wales’ largest

indoor market (swanseaindoormarket.co.uk) is nearby: Pen-

clawwd cockles, Gower saltmarsh-grazed lamb, and Mexican

and Thai food create one of the broadest culinary spectrums

anywhere in the country. Elsewhere, hit waterfront Gigi Gao’s

for Wales’ best Chinese food; Joe’s Ice Cream, going since

1922, for legendary gelato; or No Sign Wine Bar, Swansea’s

oldest pub, for drinks and live music.

Seafood-rich Mumbles Oysters were once the economic

mainstay in the swanky suburb of Mumbles, curving dashingly

along the seashore below wooded hills, and seafood remains a

huge hook. It doesn’t get fresher than at Gower Seafood Hut:

grab takeaway cockles or chilli prawns to devour overlooking

the bay. Meanwhile, elegant Môr (Wednesday to Sunday)

conjures memorable surf- and turf-inspired dishes.

Michelin meals Along the sandy arc of Oxwich Bay, Penrice

Estate’s old coal store is now the Michelin-starred Beach

House (Wednesday to Saturday), with regional produce

again at the vanguard. Linger over Oxwich Bay lobster, Gower

saltmarsh lamb or bara brith soufflé while watching the waves,

a climax fit for the most refined gourmand.

Far left top Swansea Indoor Market

Far left bottom Beach House

123

ĸ

Eating & Drinking

Around Swansea

Make your dinner or

drink out into more than

just a tasty treat:

• Rok brings a fresh dining

concept to the Mumbles,

blending inventive small

plates with epic views of

Bracelet Bay’s cliffs and

Mumbles lighthouse.

• Imbibe the passionate

knowledge and taste the

tantalising wares of UK-

wide street-food maestros

at springtime Swansea

Street Food Festival.

• Tarry in the gorgeous

gin garden at Port Eynon's

Gower Gin Company,

sampling its gins and tour-

ing the micro-distillery.

• Not-quite-so Secret

Beach Bar & Kitchen in

Swansea is a glassfronted

beach-facing beauty with

crowd-pleasing dishes and

sweeping seaside views.

Order the wood-fired pizza.

SWANSEA,

THE

GOWER

&

CARMARTHENSHIRE EXPERIENCES

01 DIANA TALIUN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 02 KERRY WALKER/LONELY PLANET ©, 03 THAISUCCULENTS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 04 VISIONSI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 05 GSDESIGN/

SHUTTERSTOCK © 06 MEUNIERD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 07 CKP1001/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 08 MANON HOUSTON/JOE'S ICE CREAM ©, 09 JABAJAK VINEYARD, LLANBOIDY

SA34 0ED ©

01 Carmarthen ham

Salt-cured and then

air-dried, Carmarthen

ham is revered as the

country’s finest and has

PGI status.

02 Sewin

No food embodies the

region's estuary-riven

landscape like this sea

trout, caught along

lower river courses by

traditional methods

since Roman times.

03 Penclawdd

cockles

Big sandy bays and

shallow waters make

sublime cockle beds,

and Penclawwd on

the Gower is Britain’s

cockling capital.

04 Gower salt-

marsh-grazed lamb

The PGI-listed lambs

grazing Burry Inlet’s

expansive salt marshes

feast on The likes of

samphire, giving their

meat a delicious flavour.

02

01

04

03

BOUNTY

of Sea & Soil

05 Baker's Pig

charcuterie

This place produces

some of the country’s

only charcuterie, using

the farm’s pigs to make

excellent cured and

fermented meats.

06 Welsh Black

cattle beef

Linked with Carm-

arthenshire’s legendary

cattle drovers, this

ancient Celtic cattle

breed is today reared

on the Gower’s Penrice

Castle Estate.

07 Laverbread

A rich inky boiled

seaweed consumed na-

tionwide but especially

associated with South

Wales and Burry Inlet.

08 Joe's ice cream

A seaside outing around

Swansea and the Gower

should include this icon-

ic local gelato. Founded

in 1922.

09 Jabajak wine

On an estate thought to

be the original inspira-

tion for the White House,

this winery produces

exceptional whites.

05

06

07

08

09

PARKERSPICS/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

CHARLESY/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

How to

Getting there Swansea,

with train connections

to/from Cardiff, London

and Manchester, is the

Gower's transport hub.

From here, Gower Heri-

tage Centre, a short drive

or a bus journey from

Killay in West Swansea,

makes a good base for

exploring.

When to go These an-

cient locales are magical

whether illuminated

by the summer sun or

looming out from winter

clouds.

Visitor info Gower

Heritage Centre, along

with adjacent TIC Tourism

Swansea Bay, has handy

regional information.

The Prehistoric

GOWER

PREHISTORY | HIKING | COAST

19

Chambered cairns, clifftop forts, colossal standing stones and strange

finds in caves: the Gower, a sweep of emptiness beside built-up Swansea, offers

magical glimpses into how the land looked long ago. Wander along wave-

pummelled coast and over wild heath searching for well-conserved ancient sites

of international import, and discover places most people unknowingly pass by.

126

SWANSEA,

THE

GOWER

&

CARMARTHENSHIRE EXPERIENCES

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Bay

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Channel

Three Cliffs

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Llethryd

Llandewi

Llanrhidian

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Rhossili

Southgate

Port

Eynon

Llangennith

Parkmill

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Castle

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Top

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Sweyne’s

Howes

0

5 km

0

2.5 miles

e

Hill-fort hunting In prehistoric times the Gower was a

well-defended and important area. Caswell Bay, Pwlldu

Head and Oxwich Point are all crowned by hill forts, with the

Wales Coast Path the best way to explore these sites.

Castles, graves, caves Beginning in Parkmill, ancient ambles

lead south via 12th-century Pennard Castle to spectacular

Three Cliffs Bay or north into leafy Parc-Le-Breos estate.

Here await Neolithic chambered tomb Giant's Grave and

Cathole Cave, where a reindeer etched 14,000 years ago is the

UK's oldest rock art.

Britain's oldest humans The walk from Port Eynon to

Worm’s Head follows the Gower’s remotest seaboard and

passes above Goat’s Hole Cave where the Red Lady of

Paviland, a red ochre-dyed skeleton from the late Stone Age,

was discovered in 1823. This, alongside nearby finds, is the

earliest-known evidence of modern humankind in Britain.

You’ll encounter some distinctive promontory hill forts on

this stretch too.

Legendary stones Linger around Llanrhidian to see some

astonishing ancient sites. Cilifor Top (east) is the Gower’s

best-preserved hill fort while Samson's Jack (west) is one

of Wales’ tallest standing stones at 3.2m. Finally, climb Cefn

Bryn (south), a bare ridge on which perches Arthur’s Stone,

a megalithic tomb with a gargantuan 25-tonne capstone. Leg-

end has this as a pebble King Arthur removed from his boot

and the stone's cleft as rendered by Excalibur. Or St David.

You decide.

Far left top Pennard Castle Far left

bottom Arthur's Stone

127

e

Big Bay,

Big History

Sooner or later on your

Gower explorations you'll

reach Rhossili, and while

the 3-mile sandy bay may

well distract you, this

place is much more than a

pretty face.

Worms Head A craggy

mile-long promontory

at the southern end,

accessible only at low tide

and supposedly believed

by the Vikings to be a

sleeping dragon because

of its shape.

Sweyne's Howes Double

act of burial chambers on

Rhossili Down's slopes.

Burry Holms Tidal island

at the northern end,

inhabited by Mesolithic

hunters, associated with

early Christian saint

Cenydd and home to both

an Iron Age hill fort and a

medieval chapel.

SWANSEA,

THE

GOWER

&

CARMARTHENSHIRE EXPERIENCES

Big Beach

BIKE TOUR

BEACH | CYCLING | SURFING

Those broad, yellow-white smiles of sand fringing Gower

and Carmarthenshire include Wales' biggest beach and some of its

most beautiful, esteemed by everyone from surfers to shipwreck-

lovers. Pedal 55 miles from Rhossili Bay to Pendine Sands, pausing

for swims, ice creams and staggering shoreline panoramas.

20

Trip Notes

Getting around Llangennith is 16 miles west of Swansea, which is served by

trains from Cardiff and London. Get out here by cycling or driving.

When to go Wales’ most beach-like weather comes April to September.

September to April is best for surfing and gazing at wild seas.

Ferry fun The Ferryside-Llansteffan ferry (carmarthenbayferries.co.uk, May

to September), is the fun way to cross the Teifi, and can fit four bikes (book

ahead). It's more direct than pedalling upriver to Carmarthen and back.

PAUL

QUAYLE/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

128

ĕ Break It Up

Llangennith is the

Gower's finest surfing

spot, feeling the brunt

of incoming Atlantic

swells. Incredible

South Wales coast

views beckon, and a

sandy seabed limits

bruised limbs. Waves

rolling in from open

sea unchecked can

be volatile, though,

and it's a long paddle

out. Novices can get

a gentle initiation at

Llangennith Surf

School.

SWANSEA,

THE

GOWER

&

CARMARTHENSHIRE EXPERIENCES

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FROM LEFT: HUW B/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BLUE SKY IN MY POCKET/GETTY IMAGES ©

Llangennith lies halfway

along a 5-mile sandy expanse,

at the north of ravishing Rhossili

Bay, a regular poll-topper in 'Best

British Beach' votes, and just

south of quiet Whiteford Sands.

01

Zigzag around the estuaries

until you reach Pendine Sands.

The nation's second-longest beach

is so lengthy Malcolm Campbell

and others used it for consecutive

successful attempts to break the

world land-speed record.

04

Your ride keeps you

close to the Teifi Estuary

until Ferryside, where you

can take an amphibious

ferry to Llansteffan, a

vast band of sandy beach

capped by a castle.

03

Wales' longest strand

and first Blue Flag beach,

Cefn Sidan, fans out from

Pembrey Country Park near

Llanelli: eight epic miles of

sand (pictured left), sporting

dunes, forest and shipwrecks.

02

BILLY

STOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

DWEEKS/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

How to

Getting here The National

Botanic Garden of Wales

(NBGW; botanic garden.

wales) is 2 miles south-

west of Llanarthne, best

accessed by car or bicycle

from Llandybïe railway

station (8 miles east).

When to go May has the

loveliest blooms; June–

September, the NBGW is

still at its fecund best.

Top tip Allow a full day

to visit; avoid weekend

crowds if possible.

Garden crazy Enrich

your NBGW excursion

with a jaunt to Aberglas-

ney Gardens, 7 miles

northeast.

Botanic Garden

MEANDER

GARDENS | NATURE | WILDLIFE

21

Nowhere better epitomises Carmarthenshire's nickname 'Garden of Wales'

than the 560-odd acres of the National Botanic Garden of Wales, embosomed in

rolling green scenery above the Tywi Valley. They were transformed by eccentric

businessman William Paxton into one of Wales’ most magnificent country estates

in the 18th century, then again in 2000 into Britain’s largest botanic garden.

130

SWANSEA,

THE

GOWER

&

CARMARTHENSHIRE EXPERIENCES

CERI

BREEZE/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

Horticultural highlights Strolling from the entrance, you'll

spy the cave-like Ice House off to the left before reaching the

unusual double-walled garden. This Regency feature enabled

Paxton to extend the months during which his estate's produce

flourished and impress guests by serving out-of-season

fruit and veg! It is overlooked by winsome native woodland

Springwoods while the British Bird of Prey Centre nearby

is a superb spot to see golden eagles and other raptors in

airborne action. Further along is the Apothecary's Garden,

displaying medicinal plants used by fabled Welsh herbalists

the Physicians of Myddfai, a fun recreated pharmacy from

Edwardian times, and a courtyard cafe vending refreshments

part-made from garden-grown produce. You next encounter

NBGW's superlative centrepiece: the Norman Foster–designed

Great Glasshouse, the world's largest single-span green-

house, housing a stunning Mediterranean plant collection.

Watery wonder NGBW's most marvellous feature still beckons.

Beyond the Great Glasshouse is a chain of lakes, gorgeously

restored over several years to the glory they enjoyed as Pax-

ton's state-of-the-art Regency water gardens, recreated from

1815 paintings commissioned by Paxton. Enchanting paths

usher you around and across water features into the woods and

meadows of Waun Las National Nature Reserve (NNR).

Tower viewpoint Before leaving this lush locale, take one of

the magical lanes skirting NBGW 2 miles to Paxton's Tower,

a 19th-century folly and former part of the estate offering

panoramas across Carmarthenshire.

Pictured National Botanic Garden

of Wales

131

š Garden Insights

NBGW is more than

a botanic garden. We

have plant collections of

international importance,

but we also have Waun Las

NNR. Autumn especially

excites me here: there

are entire meadows of

waxcaps, increasingly rare

mushrooms, blazes of

red and yellow. The Great

Glasshouse doesn't just

have Mediterranean plants,

but plants from the plan-

et's five Mediterranean-

type climates, so Northern

California, Africa's Cape

region, Central Chile

and Western Australia.

The proteas in the Africa

section are stunning and

in the Australia bed the

grass-trees, resembling

bad hair-dos, are great.

People imagine Wales as

wet, so it surprises them

that such a diversity of

plants flourishes here.

 Insights from

Alex Summers,

NBGW curator

@walesbotanic

SWANSEA,

THE

GOWER

&

CARMARTHENSHIRE EXPERIENCES

NICOLAMARGARET/GETTY

IMAGES

©

BILLY

STOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

How to

Getting here Kidwelly's

request stop railway

station has services every

two hours to/from Man-

chester, Cardiff, Swansea

and Carmarthen.

When to go Castles

are open year-round.

May–August promises

medieval-themed events

at Kidwelly and various

festivities at Dinefwr.

Pass-over? These castles

are all owned by Cadw

(cadw.gov.wales), except

Dinefwr (National Trust).

Consider a Cadw pass

or National Trust annual

pass only if combining

this trip with other sites

owned by them within the

same year.

Carmarthenshire's

CASTLES

HISTORY | CASTLES | RIVERS

22

The North's UNESCO-listed fortresses and the Southeast's

hulking strongholds may steal the limelight, but Carmarthenshire

has some of the country's pre-eminent fortifications. Indeed, this

quartet of mighty castles provide glorious crowd-free ramparts

and enticing incursions into the county's lush interior.

132

SWANSEA,

THE

GOWER

&

CARMARTHENSHIRE EXPERIENCES

#

#

#

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#

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Bay

Brecon Beacons

(Bannau

Brycheiniog)

National Park

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ive

r

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w

i

Llanarthne

Llangathen

Ammanford

Ffairfach

Kidwelly

Bronwydd

Arms

Abergwili

Rhosmaen

Llansteffan

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Port

Llandeilo

Pontarddulais

Carmarthen

Ferryside

Kidwelly

Castle

Llansteffan

Castle

Dryslwyn

Castle

Dinefwr

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# Ù

6

0

10 km

0

5 miles

e

King-worthy Kidwelly From Kidwelly station it's 0.75 miles

into town along River Gwendraeth to Kidwelly Castle. This is

one of Wales' best-preserved examples of the 'castle-within-

a-castle', the defensive design Normans were favouring by the

late 1200s, with exterior curtain walls wrapping a multi-towered

inner ward. The Chaworth brothers, powerful Marcher Lords,

raised these remarkable defences around 1280; they withstood

attack by powerful Welsh leader Owain Glyndŵr and endured

the ensuing 750 years. Consequently, many rooms and stair-

cases remain intact.

Seaside stronghold A pretty estuary train ride one station on

to Ferryside sets up the trip across the wide, sandy Tywi via

amphibious ferry (carmarthenbayferries.co.uk) to Llansteffan

and the prepossessing clifftop Llansteffan Castle.

Welsh-built marvels However, travelling independently north-

east cross-country from Ferryside to the striking castles upriver

on the Tywi is best. Dryslwyn Castle, a broken-but-beautiful

early-13th-century hilltop ruin, numbers among the finest

surviving Welsh-built castles (Wales' better-known Norman

castles symbolised Welsh subjugation in their day). Six miles

east above charming Llandeilo is Dinefwr Castle, enfolded

by the bewitching Dinefwr Estate. Wander through native

woodland up to the mid-12th-century fortifications that were

once capital of the medieval Welsh kingdom Deheubarth, Wales'

pre-eminent region for several centuries. Views from the still-

mighty ramparts are fit for a king.

Far left top Kidwelly Castle

Far left bottom Llansteffan Castle

133

H

Know Your

Wrights

Drive through farm-

land along the B4300

between Carmarthen

and Llandeilo and you’ll

hit Llanarthne, a village

near Dryslwyn Castle

and the unlikely location

of Carmarthenshire's

best place to eat. This is

Wright’s Food Empori-

um (shop.wrightsfood.

co.uk), brainchild

of food broadcaster

Simon Wright. Open

Thursday to Sunday, the

former pub doubles as

a shop-deli sporting a

mix of excellent regional

produce mixed with

Mediterranean fare and

a casual-but-elegant

kitchen serving inventive

lunches, legendary

cakes and coffees, and

Sunday brunches. It’s a

wonderful insight into the

Welsh food scene (Wright

is renowned for stocking

only the very best).

SWANSEA,

THE

GOWER

&

CARMARTHENSHIRE EXPERIENCES

KERRY

WALKER/LONELY

PLANET

©

Coracle

Catches

DISCOVER THE

ESOTERIC PRACTICE

OF CORACLE-FISHING

Pre-dating the

Roman arrival in

Britain, coracles are

the world's oldest

continuously used

boats. These quirky

basket-like vessels

have mostly vanished

from daily life, but

in Southwest Wales,

some two dozen

fishers on three rivers

keep coracle-fishing

alive. Their catch, the

sewin or sea trout, is

Wales' most sought-

after delicacy.

Left Coracle fishing Middle Fishers

carrying coracles Right Coracler and

his catch

Rich Fish-story

Julius Caesar, invading Britain in 55 BCE, would remark in his

Commentarii de Bello Gallico (Commentaries on the Gallic

War) about the boats the Celtic Britons used: he wrote of

vessels constructed with‘light timber’,‘woven together of

osiers [willows]’and‘covered with hides’. So struck was the

commander by the Britons’vessels that he went on to use

them in future military campaigns. The boats in question,

coracles, were ideal for incursions into shallow waters where

any other craft would get stuck. They were effective one-man

outfits too, straightforward for individuals to carry over rough

terrain. Nevertheless, it has not been plain sailing for coracles

since then. As Celtic populations moved to Britain’s fringes −

Wales, Scotland, Cornwall − so too did their customs. Today,

the coracles that plied Britain’s waterways during Caesar's

time are almost non-existent. Almost but, amazingly, not

quite, for on three rivers in Carmarthenshire and along the

Pembrokeshire–Ceredigion border − the Tywi (Towy),Taf

(Taff) and Teifi − you can see them still. Doing exactly what

they were two millennia or more ago: fishing.

Complex Craft

Coracles are tricky craft to fish with. Paddled with one oar,

they are ungainly to behold and are made employing much

the same methods as in 55 BCE. Coraclers must work

in pairs, holding a net stretched across the river's width

between themselves and another vessel before proceeding

downriver, net in situ, on their fishing trip. Furthermore,

coracle-fishing must be done nocturnally, when fish are

134

SWANSEA,

THE

GOWER

&

CARMARTHENSHIRE ESSAY

Ĕ

KERRY

WALKER/LONELY

PLANET

©

KERRY

WALKER/LONELY

PLANET

©

more active (the Welsh word clyfwchwr, meaning when seven

stars are visible in the night sky, poetically describes the

perfect time to set out). The activity is only permitted between

May and July and, more challengingly yet for the dozen-odd

remaining coracling duos licensed to work these Southwest

Wales rivers, they are really after just one fish: sewin.

Scrumptious Sewin

Sewin are Welsh sea trout.

They spawn in rivers and

then grow muscularly fla-

voursome from time spent

feeding in the ocean before

returning to begin the life

cycle anew in their natal

freshwaters, where they

require great skill to haul

in. Their journey and

the extremely involved

fishing process make coracle-caught sewin Wales’ rarest,

most sought-after food, and one of the nation’s 16 PGI- and

PDO-listed foods and drinks. Should you spy sewin on one of

the few restaurant menus offering it during its short season,

seize your chance. The price will be higher than that of other

fish because one or two coraclers will have reeled this in at

no small effort. But the expense is worth it: the sewin's taste

is divine, the meaty flesh enhanced by a creamy layer of fat

under the skin. And its story is one that cannot fail to hook.

Coracles are tricky craft

to fish with. Paddled

with one oar, they are

ungainly to behold and

are made employing

much the same

methods as in 55 BCE.

135

ĸ

Spot Coraclers &

Sample Sewin

National Coracle Centre The

first stop for coracle novices

in Cenarth, Carmarthenshire,

this informative museum

charts the vessel's history in

Britain and other surprising

places, like Tibet.

Teifi Marshes Nature

Reserve Dawdle after dusk

on these wetlands and you

might see coraclers readying

for action.

St Dogmaels Market Find

local coracler Len and his wife

Mandy vending Len's freshly

caught sewin and other

seafood treats at this Tuesday

morning market.

Wrights Food Emporium

In Llanarthne, Carmarthen-

shire's best place to eat

sometimes serves sewin.

Ferry Inn Riverside pub in

St Dogmaels, Pembrokeshire,

also serving sewin.

SWANSEA,

THE

GOWER

&

CARMARTHENSHIRE ESSAY

JOAN

GRAVELL/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

TOM

SMITH/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

How to

Getting there Carm-

arthen has the closest

train station. Twice-daily

buses (Monday to

Friday) run from here

to Brechfa via the A40/

B4310. By car, come the

same way or, from the

east, via Llansawel to

Abergorlech.

When to go Trails are

open year-round; best

during dry weather.

Autumn colours are the

best of all.

Splendid isolation Trails

for hiking, biking and

horse riding are great.

Facilities are minimal.

There are a few fantastic

country pubs around the

forest periphery.

Brechfa Forest

FORAYS

CYCLING | HIKING | FOREST

23

An inky coniferous expanse running riot across Carmarthenshire's

northern borderlands, enfolding broadleaf woods and moors along the way,

Brechfa might be the biggest, most temptingly trail-laced forest in Britain you've

never heard of. Known to intrepid mountain bikers, local hikers and horse riders,

it's accessed from remote villages and steeped in rugged Welsh countryside spirit.

136

SWANSEA,

THE

GOWER

&

CARMARTHENSHIRE EXPERIENCES

#

#

Ù

Ù

Đ

v

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Ą

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Brechfa

Forest

Mynydd

Llanllwni

Riv

er

Gwil

i

River

Teifi

Llandysul

Llanybydder

Abergorlech

Brechfa

Llidiad-

Nenog

Llanllwni

Rhydcymerau

Gwernogle

St Michael's

Church

Gorlech Trail/

Forest Garden Walk

Raven

Trail

Byrgwm

Walk

Keepers

Trail

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D

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0

5 km

0

2.5 miles

e

Arboreal adventures There's something intoxicating

about navigating large, little-known forests, and here you'll

have that fairy-tale feeling of being far removed without

needing to sacrifice solid paths. From Brechfa the forest's

two finest driving and cycling lanes thrust north through a

magical miscellany of greenery, via Keepers trailhead or

time-lost hamlet Llidiad-Nenog, to the moorland road over

stark Mynydd Llanllwni. Link them for an 18-mile round-

trip encompassing all the region's terrain types, including

delightful native woodlands. The Llidiad-Nenog lane bends

by enchanting St Michael's Church with its pebble pool and

churchyard labyrinth.

Trailblazing Undulating farmland and moorland routes meet

forest tracks, creating some tantalising, solitude-rich hiking

and biking trails. The Byrgwm walk, beginning between Brech-

fa and Abergorlech, is an inviting 4.5-mile ramble through the

transition zone between pasture and forest; Byrgwm's hard-

core bikers, however, will relish the black-grade 12-mile Raven

Trail, brainchild of biking legend Rowan Sorrell. Abergorlech

is another amazing trailhead: pedal the 20-mile Gorlech Trail

to Rhydcymerau or tackle the 5.5-mile Forest Garden Walk,

reconnoitring where foresters in the 1950s experimentally

planted around half the tree species growable in Britain. Also

look out hereabouts for Gorlech Stones, mudstones eroded

into bizarre shapes. Or go off-piste on the DIY ramble up the

River Clydach from Gwernogle onto Mynydd Llanllwni.

Far left top Brechfa Forest in autumn

Far left bottom Aerial view of Brechfa

Forest

137

ĩ Country Pubs

Part of the Brechfa

experience is ending your

excursion at one of the

forest's wonderful pubs:

Forest Arms (forestarms.

com, Tuesday to Sunday)

Family-run stone-built

hotel in Brechfa village

with atmospheric beamed

drinking and dining areas,

an open fire and a grassy

beer garden next to the

park.

Black Lion (facebook.

com/blacklionabergor

lech, Wednesday to

Sunday) A timber-framed

charmer near the Aber-

gorlech forest entrance

that boasts Brechfa

Forest's best beer garden,

abutting the River Cothi.

Y Plough (yplough

felingwm.co.uk, Thursday

to Sunday) Rural country

pub with weekly set

menus. Expect wood-fired

pizzas and flame-grilled

meats cooked outdoors

‘asado-style’.

SWANSEA,

THE

GOWER

&

CARMARTHENSHIRE EXPERIENCES

LEIGHTON

COLLINS/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

Llyn Brianne

& BEYOND

ROAD TRIP | NATURE | HISTORY

You might scour all Wales and not discover a more devastatingly

beautiful drive than this circular romp through northern Carmarthenshire

and southern Ceredigion, looping Llyn Brianne. Expect steep, sinuous single-

tracks, mighty forests, moody history and panoramas of one of Wales' most

winsome reservoirs.

24

Trip Notes

Getting around This trip begins and ends in Llandovery (Carmarthenshire),

which is connected by train to Swansea and Shrewsbury.

When to go Spring and summer coax out the most agreeable weather.

Road-trip snacks Pick up freshly baked pasties, Welsh cheeses and cakes from

La Patisserie bakery in Llandovery.

Fuel up Llandovery and Tregaron alone on the route have fuel.

138

H Where to Eat

This route features

several country pubs

and hotels that serve

food. Check opening

times in advance.

Castle Hotel (castle-

hotel-llandovery.

co.uk) In Llandovery.

Historic charm, local

produce, standout

Sunday roasts.

Towy Bridge Inn

(facebook.com/

towybridge) Near

Rhandirmwym.

Riverside retreat,

home-cooked food,

Towy Ale.

Y Talbot (ytalbot.

com) In Tregaron.

Award-winning

dining, Welsh ales,

characterful

Grade-II inn.

SWANSEA,

THE

GOWER

&

CARMARTHENSHIRE EXPERIENCES

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FROM LEFT: LEIGHTON COLLINS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

JOAN GRAVELL/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

n

Hiding in a bewitching

knoll of ancient sessile

oak woodland in RSPB

Gwenffrwd-Dinas is the

Cave of Twm Siôn Cati,

purported lair of the

16th-century outlaw known

as the Welsh Robin Hood.

01

The highlight of the return

leg, Dolaucothi Gold Mines,

tucked away in a patchwork

of woods and meadows near

Pumsaint, are the only known

Roman gold mines in Britain.

05

Another entry into the list of

'Wales' remotest...' on this

drive is Wales' Remotest Phone

Box. Along with some ruined

crofts, that's all you'll find here. But

it makes for a scenic place to stop.

04

The whitewashed 1822-

built Soar-y-Mynydd

chapel is a candidate for

Wales' most isolated and

feels it, being one of the few

buildings in many miles of

wilds north of Llyn Brianne.

03

Britain's highest dam

provides a spectacular

outlook over Llyn

Brianne (pictured left)

the largest body of

water in South Wales,

prompting comparisons

with Canadian lake

scenery through its steep

forest-cloaked hillsides.

02

š Gardens & Walks

Clyne Gardens

These dazzling 19-hectare botanic gardens

are the big attraction between Swansea and

Mumbles, and are famous for their landscaped

loveliness and exceptional rhododendrons.

Gower Coast Path

It's impossible choosing the prettiest chunk of

Gower coast to walk, so trekking all 38 miles of

beaches, clifftops, marshes, dunes and villages

between Mumbles and Crofty is best.

Cwm Rhaeadr

Steeply pitching upland forest 6 miles north of

Llandovery with stunning walking and mountain-

biking trails. Rhaeadr is Welsh for waterfall, and

the plunging cascade is a highlight.

a Renowned Museums & Houses

Dylan Thomas Boathouse

Wales' best-known poet lived here for his final

four years: a characterful Laugharne residence

tucked into cliffs. See his Writing Shed nearby.

National Waterfront Museum

The world's Industrial Revolution began in

Swansea, and this flashily converted turn-of-

the-century dockside warehouse celebrates this

heritage and Wales' wider Industrial Revolution.

Includes a replica of the train that made the

planet's first railway journey.

Museum of Land Speed

Built right on the edge of the famous sands, this

modern Museum is an impressive tribute to the

rich history of land-speed record attempts on

Pendine Beach’s 7-mile stretch of sand. Look out

for‘Babs’racing car.

e Ancient Treasures

Gwal y Filiast

Carmarthenshire's most striking megalithic

chambered cairn, ethereally ensconced in wood-

land above the River Taff, looks in excellent nick

for its 4000 years.

Tally Abbey

Poignant remains of Wales' only Premonstraten-

sian abbey, built in the 1180s in the Carmarthen-

shire village of Tally, where woodland walks yield

splendid views of the Cothi valley.

Garn Goch Hill Fort

One of the largest hill forts in Wales, with two

camps believed to have been erected in the

Early Bronze Age. Best explored under a silvery

night sky on a full-moon walk with local guide

Lisa Denison.

H Pubs & Restaurants

Slice

£

This simple-but-stylish dining room is a fine

segue into the eating scene in Swansea’s Sketty

neighbourhood, with adventurous variations on

langoustine, wagyu, suckling pig, poussin and

more.

Britannia Inn

£

A 17th-century Gower gem, retaining its original

beams and fireplace. Views of the Loughor Estu-

ary from its beer garden in Llanmadoc.

Y Polyn

££

Understated, atmospheric and out-on-its-own

Carmarthenshire restaurant near Capel Dewi,

where jeans-wearing staff let you pour your own

wine but serve some of South Wales’best food,

with top local produce.

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

140

SWANSEA,

THE

GOWER

&

CARMARTHENSHIRE REVIEWS

Cwmdu Inn

£

The Cwmdu is a community triumph: an

enchanting 19th-century terrace comprising a

bar, restaurant and shop-cum-post office. For

20-odd years, it's been run by residents in this

rural hamlet 6 miles from Llandeilo. Cash only.

Inn at the Sticks

££

Award-winning historic inn in Llansteffan whip-

ping up small plates of locally inspired dishes

and international cuisine nods, think cockle

popcorn, Atlantic edge oysters, Asian sticky

pork, and Welsh beef and perl las pie.

ţ Beaches, Rivers & Wetlands

Oxwich Bay

A 2.5-mile sandy curve with a Sauna by the

Sea experience at Ty Sauna; this oceanside

woodfired barrel sauna is where you can have a

post-swim steam in a haze of woodsmoke and

ocean breeze. Then feast at Michelin-starred

Beach House.

Llandysul Paddlers

Llandysul in north Carmarthenshire enjoys

some of Wales' fastest white water on the Afon

Teifi. This operator can get you out on it.

Llanelli Wetlands Centre

A phenomenal 450-acre patchwork of path-

linked lagoons and marshes outside Llanelli and

one of the UK's 10 Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust

wetlands, protecting rare migratory birds and a

menagerie of year-round avian residents.

B Astounding Accommodation

Glangwili Mansion

Upscale B&B on the fringes of Brechfa Forest,

with individually styled rooms and unique

artworks. The wooden Star Gazing Cabin offers

a Scandi-cool snug to enjoy big starry skies and

grazing platters delivered to the door.

Cambrian Escapes Dark Skies Camping

Off-grid and summer-only retreat with just six

pitches spread over 30 acres, offering seclu-

sion and stargazing in rural surroundings. Set

beneath some of Wales’darkest skies, you can

gaze up from your pitch or trek up the nearby hill

for a full celestial display.

Brown’s Hotel

If Dylan Thomas gave this hotel bar’s phone

number as his own, rest assured you’re now en-

tering a distinguished literary address. Besides

boutique rooms and the bard’s bar, there is also

Dexter’s Steakhouse, offering cuts from its very

own herd.

Ē Strollable Suburbs & Towns

Mumbles

Swansea's favourite seaside neighbourhood,

caught between bay and wooded hills, is the

captivating divide between city and Gower coun-

tryside: reconnoitring the agreeable cafes and

shops starts a regional trip off on a high.

Llandeilo

No Carmarthenshire expedition would be

complete without dawdling in this dinky town

overflowing with independent shops, galleries

and cafes, not to mention the two castles within

walking distance.

Gwal y Filiast

ANDREW

CHISHOLM/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

141

SWANSEA,

THE

GOWER

&

CARMARTHENSHIRE REVIEWS

ST DAVIDS &

PEMBROKESHIRE

BEACHES | HISTORY | FOOD

 Trip Builder (p144)

 Practicalities (p146)

 Coasteering

Capers (p148)

 Gwaun Valley

Time Travel (p150)

 Prehistory in the

Preseli Hills (p152)

 Puffin Heaven

on Skomer (p154)

 Wild Creatures

of Wales (p156)

 Green Light for

St Davids (p158)

 Pembrokeshire

on a Plate (p160)

 The Call of

the Coast (p164)

 Saints &

the Sea (p168)

 Hiking the

Pembrokeshire

Coast Path (p170)

 Listings (p172)

STEVED_NP3/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

#

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Skokholm

Island

Skomer

Island

Ramsey

Island

Linney

Head

St Ann's

Head

Atlantic

Ocean

St Brides

Bay

Westdale

Bay

Pembrokeshire

Coast National

Park

Penycwm

Roch

St Davids

Newgale

Solva

Broad Haven

Dale

Porthgain

Angle

Mathry

Ķ

ŕ

Ŕ ŕ

Ē

6 ĥ

Ł

Wander past lily ponds

to dune-backed Broad

Haven South (p165)

ń 10min from Pembroke

Pembrokeshire is a child's fantasy, with its cliffs

diving to storm-ruffled seas, puffin islands and coastal

paths unfurling to smuggler bays, castles, mysterious

standing stones and sites of saintly miracles. Dangling

off Wales' southwest coast, this region inspires instant

love with its history, food and wild, wild beauty.

ST DAVIDS &

PEMBROKESHIRE

Trip Builder

Feel the sea's force coasteer-

ing at Preseli Venture (p148)

ń 15min from Fishguard

Hang out with puffins

on Skomer (p154)

ň 15min from

Martins Haven

Feel the green

groove in eco-cool

St Davids (p158)

Ň 30min from

Haverfordwest

144

ST

DAVIDS

&

PEMBROKESHIRE BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

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P E M B R O K E S H I R E

C A R M A R T H E N S H I R E

C E R E D I G I O N

Caldey

Preseli

Hills

St Govan's

Head

Stackpole

Head

Carmarthen

Bay

Cardigan Bay

Daugleddau

Bristol

Channel

Ceibwr

Bay

Barafundle

Bay

Pembrokeshire

Coast National

Park

Pembrokeshire

Coast National

Park

Teifi Marshes

Nature

Reserve

Dinas

Cross

Begelly

Goodwick

Pontfaen

St Dogmaels

Narberth

Penally

Carew

Neyland

Johnston

Whitland

Poppit

Sands

Bosherston

Stackpole

Saundersfoot

Amroth

Crymach

Pembroke

Haverfordwest

Fishguard

Pembroke

Dock

Tenby

Milford

Haven

Cardigan

Newport

Laugharne

4

Đ

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E

Đ

Ŕ

6

v

E

ħ

ĥ

e

0

10 km

0

5 miles

FROM LEFT: MARK CAUNT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

STEVE BRIDGE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BIRDSONLINE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Embrace the coast from

storm-bashed cliff to cove

at Dinas Head (p167)

ń 15min from Fishguard

Forage and feast with chef

Matt Powell at Annwn (p162)

ń 20min from Pembroke

Hike the ravishing

Pembrokeshire

Coast Path (p170)

Ň start in Amroth,

20min from Tenby

Rewind time in the

remote Gwaun

Valley (p150)

ń 15min from

Fishguard

JEFFREY

BLACKLER/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

146

ST

DAVIDS

&

PEMBROKESHIRE FIND

YOUR

FEET

Bus Fflecsi Pembrokeshire is

a new on-demand transport

service operating in northwest

and southwest Pembrokeshire

and is available anytime between

7.30am and 6.30pm (Monday to

Saturday). Book by downloading

the Fflecsi App.

ARRIVING

Cardiff Airport Airlines including TUI, KLM and

Ryanair fly to Cardiff, which is around a two-hour

drive from Pembrokeshire. Car hire is widely

available at the airport.

Haverfordwest Pembrokeshire's big transport

hub, Haverfordwest, is well-connected to the rest

of Wales by train and bus. Trains run roughly every

two hours to London (advance fares from £67, 4½

to five hours), with a stop in Newport or Cardiff.

Car The A40, A477 and A487 into

Pembrokeshire are busy in high

season – as are coastal car parks

(around £5 per day). The minor

roads are pretty, but slow due

to tractors, sheep and dawdling

holidaymakers.

Walking Running from Amroth

to St Dogmaels, the 186-mile

Pembrokeshire Coast Path

(pembrokeshirecoast.wales/

coast-path) is a spectacular

challenge. Cicerone produces a

useful 1:25,000 map booklet.

GETTING AROUND

day's kayak hire

£35–45

local ice cream

£4

fish-and-chip

supper £15–18

Practicalities

WHEN TO GO

HOW MUCH

FOR A...

MAR–MAY

Wildflowers blossom;

fine hiking weather.

SEP–OCT

Golden days for coastal

rambles, kayaking, coasteering

and seal-watching.

JUN–AUG

Holiday crowds, beach

days, camping; food

and music festivals.

NOV–FEB

Can be wet and stormy;

surfers brave the swells;

a quiet time.

TOP:

KERRY

WALKER/LONELY

PLANET

©

BOTTOM:

KERRY

WALKER/LONELY

PLANET

©

EATING & DRINKING

Pembrokeshire's food scene is having a moment. Drawing on the region's

bounty, chefs are getting clever with clean, bright, season-spun flavours.

The menus shout loudly of coast and country, and the settings are

unexpected and ingenious: from beachside pop-ups riffing creatively

on seafood to converted potting sheds delivering gourmet foraged

feasts. Some are even shooting high for Michelin stars. Produce-wise,

it's all happening: from sustainably harvested oysters to chilli farms,

craft beer to foraged-botanicals vermouth.

Best foraged tasting menu

Must-try lobster brioche

Annwn (p162)

Lobster and Môr (p161)

MONEY

Prices skyrocket during summer school holidays

(July and August), so visit in the shoulder seasons to

save. Always carry a little cash for essentials like car

parks, as ATMs can be elusive between towns.

WHERE TO STAY

If time is limited, don’t try to see it all. Choose between north and

south and strike out from there. Avoid peak season for fewer crowds

and cheaper rooms.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Visit Pembrokeshire (visitpem

brokeshire.com) is an excellent

resource, with the lowdown on

everything from accommodation

to beaches, wildlife, outdoor

activities and tide times.

CONNECT & FIND YOUR WAY

Wi-fi Much of the coast has

decent wi-fi, but connection gets

spottier when venturing off-piste.

Hotels, B&Bs, campgrounds,

cafes, bars and restaurants all

tend to offer free wi-fi.

Navigation Coastal roads are well

signposted, but Ordnance Survey

Explorer Maps OL35 and OL36 are

handy for hiking the coast path or

getting off the beaten track.

147

ST

DAVIDS

&

PEMBROKESHIRE FIND

YOUR

FEET

Town/Village Atmosphere

St Davids

Eco-friendly coastal honeypot. Impressive

medieval cathedral, superb beaches, array of

coastal activities, food scene. Busy in summer.

Tenby

Lively south-coast holiday resort, magnificent

sandy beaches, attractive harbour. Crowded in

summer.

Solva

Pretty fishing village, deep natural harbour. On

the coast path. Array of cafes and pubs.

Newport

Chilled, artsy coastal town, dune-backed beach.

B&Bs, pubs, restaurants and galleries.

Fishguard

Culturally vibrant, food-loving town, attractive

harbour, marine walk.

PRESELI

VENTURE

ECO

LODGE

AND

ACTIVITY

CENTRE

©

HARRY

COLLINS

PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

How to

Getting here Preseli Ven-

ture Eco Lodge (prese

liventure.co.uk) is 5 miles

from the nearest train

station in Fishguard, with

buses and taxis available.

When to go Coasteering

spots depend on times,

tides and conditions.

In autumn, the sea

is at its warmest and

seal-watching at its best.

How much does it cost?

A half-day costs £52/42

for adults/under-16s.

A weekend adventure,

including eco-lodge

accommodation, coast-

eering and meals, costs

£245. Gear and guides

are provided.

Coasteering

CAPERS

COAST | ADVENTURE | WATER SPORTS

25

If you've ever wanted to jump off a cliff for the hell of it, coasteering is for

you. Taking a deep dive into the remote Pembrokeshire coast, this water-loving

activity involves scrambling, cave swimming, wildlife encounters and leaping off

rocky ledges above the crashing Atlantic. Both the beauty of the shore and the

physical challenge will leave you buzzing and whooping for joy.

148

ST

DAVIDS

&

PEMBROKESHIRE EXPERIENCES

PRESELI

VENTURE

ECO

LODGE

AND

ACTIVITY

CENTRE

©

On the water Ocean and rock. All is ocean and rock. With the

surf fizzing at your feet, your hands gripping the crags, and

your heart hammering fast, you are very much in the moment

when coasteering. All the stress of daily life fades with the

ebbing tide, as the elements flood every sinew and pore.

Approaching the precipice with child-like wonder and fear, you

pluck up the nerve to pencil-dive off a cliff, arms flat to chest.

As you smack the shockingly cold surface, gulping seawater,

you feel thrillingly alive as you get a rinse in ‘nature’s washing

machine’. Unlike other water sports, there are no real skills to

learn. All you need is a sense of daring and curiosity.

Nature watch Beyond the buzz, coasteering is an in-depth

exploration of the coast, with up-close-and-personal wildlife

encounters on isolated stretches of coast. At tiny beaches and

rocky inlets, you can expect to spot seals in late summer and

autumn and perhaps even their pups learning to swim. There’s

plenty of shore life at low tide: sea urchins and limpets, frilly

seaweeds, barnacle-encrusted rocks and bright-red beadlet

anemones. In spring, watch for razorbills and guillemots

nesting on high rocky ledges, which form rafts of birds that

bob up and down with the swell. Dolphins and porpoises can

occasionally be sighted out at sea.

Left & far left top Coasteering with

Presesli Ventures Far left bottom

Razorbills

ST

DAVIDS

&

PEMBROKESHIRE EXPERIENCES

149

ţ

A Workout

in the Wild

You feel totally free and

at one with nature when

you go coasteering, with

only the cliffs, rocks, sea

and waves for company.

Exploring the nooks and

crannies of Pembroke-

shire's unspoiled and

breathtaking rocky

shoreline is a workout in

the wild. Coasteering is all

the things your parents

told you not to do when

you went to the beach as

a child: clambering up to

promontories, jumping off

cliffs and leaping into deep

pools, boulder scrambling,

and swimming into sea

caves. You don't need to

be super fit. Anyone can

go coasteering as long as

they can fit into a wetsuit!

 Insights from

Sophie Hurst,

early coasteering

pioneer and

co-founder of Preseli Venture

Eco Lodge,

preseliventure.co.uk

JOAN

GRAVELL/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

ANDREW

DALLY/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

How to

Getting here You’ll need

a bike or car. Follow the

B4313 5 miles south

of Fishguard, swinging

onto a narrow country

lane when you reach

Llanychaer.

When to go Spring for

bluebells and cuckoo

calls; summer for lazy

walks and cycle rides,

picnics and beer-garden

pints; January for Hen

Galan festivities.

Where to stay Why rush

off? Camp in the valley at

Gwaun Valley Camping or

stay the night at a rustic

self-catering cottage

(newportpembs.co.uk).

Gwaun Valley

TIME TRAVEL

CULTURE | OUTDOORS | HISTORY

26

It's the 21st century elsewhere, but Cwm Gwaun is oblivious.

For a taste of life a century or two ago, there's no better place to

silence the world than this steep-sided, river-woven, densely wooded

fantasy valley – hidden between Fishguard and the Preseli Hills –

which feels as though it has been sprinkled with magical sleepy dust.

150

ST

DAVIDS

&

PEMBROKESHIRE EXPERIENCES

# Ù

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Y

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m

G

w

a

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Preseli

Hills

Pembrokeshire Coast

National Park

R

i

v

e

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G

w

a

u

n

Pontfaen

Llanychaer

Sychpant

National Park

Picnic Site

St Brynach’s

Church

Gwaun

Valley

Trail

Dyffryn

Arms

Gwaun

Valley

Brewery

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e

Rewinding centuries As sunlight spills through the beech,

hazel, ash and oak woods, the only sound is birdsong and

the river babbling on by. The coast and its crowds are but a

whisper away, but Cwm Gwaun is utterly peaceful, slipping

secretively through a forested, glacier-carved valley to the

prehistoric standing stones of the Preseli Hills. It feels ancient

here – and it is. When the rest of the country switched to

the Gregorian calendar in 1752, this deeply traditional valley

resisted the change and kept the old Julian calendar. To this

day it celebrates New Year (Hen Galan) on 13 January. Kids go

door-to-door singing in return for calennig (sweets or money),

a fortune-bringing grey mare's head is paraded around on a

pole and there is much feasting and merrymaking.

Exploring the valley Best explored by bike or on foot, Cwm

Gwaun's beauty is its one-of-a-kind seclusion and sense of

mystery. Striking out on the 6-mile Gwaun Valley Trail along

the valley floor gives you a fascinating overview, taking in mini

historic marvels like the five cross-marked pillar stones

in Llanychllwydog and St Brynach's Church in Pontfaen,

founded by the saint in 540 CE. Beyond lies idyllic Sychpant

National Park Picnic Site, a Site of Special Scientific Interest

and home to rare lichens, butterflies, red kites, buzzards and

kestrels. A path leads uphill to a viewpoint gazing dreamily out

across the valley to the Preseli Hills.

Far left top Gwaun Valley Trail

Far left bottom St Brynach's Church

ST

DAVIDS

&

PEMBROKESHIRE EXPERIENCES

151

ĩ

A Pint of Bass

at Bessie's

You might breeze

through the hamlet of

Pontfaen were it not for

its extraordinary pub.

The Dyffryn Arms or

Bessie’s if you’re local, is

legendary because of its

former landlady, Bessie

Davies, the longest-

serving pub landlady in

Britain before she passed

away in 2023. The Grade

II–listed pub has been

open since 1840, and the

decor is post-war stuff.

Opening hours go with

whim and weather, and

beer is served in jugs

from the barrel. If you

want craft ales, head

down the road to

rural Gwaun Valley

Brewery (gwaunvalley

brewery.com).

TRAVELLIGHT/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

Prehistory

in the

Preseli

Hills

UNRAVEL ANCIENT

MYSTERIES IN THE

PRESELI HILLS

The wind-battered

moors and cairn-

dotted crags of the

Preseli Hills are

your backstage pass

to one of Britain's

most ancient

and mysterious

landscapes. You can't

take a step here

without knocking

over a prehistoric

standing stone,

dolmen, tor or Bronze

Age hill fort.

Left Carreg Samson Middle View

from Foel Drygarn Right Foel Eryr

The Welsh Stonehenge

These stones are ancient. Perhaps the most ancient in

Britain. Walk over bracken and bog on these lonely moors

and the only sound is the whistle of red kites circling over-

head and the wind howling as it whips off the Irish Sea.

Experts have long believed this unsung region to be the

birthplace of Stonehenge. And in 2021 this was verified by

archaeologist Mark Parker Pearson in the BBC docu-

mentary Stonehenge: The Lost Circle Revealed, when he

discovered a hole in the rock at Waun Mawn that fitted a

cross-section of Stonehenge bluestone like a 'lock in a key'.

But why did these ancient people drag immense boulders

weighing 2 to 5 tonnes some 200 miles to Salisbury Plain?

Was it to honour the dead or bury royalty? Chart sun and

moon? We'll never know, but one thing is for sure: the

Preseli Hills are endlessly fascinating for anyone intrigued

by past civilisations and the treasures that lie above and

below the ground.

The Golden Road

Prehistory is writ large on the region's 7-mile, west–east

Golden Road footpath, which runs along the spine of these

hills. Hike here and you'll meet precious few others. The

pull of the Pembrokeshire coast is so strong that most

overlook the lanes veining this remote hinterland entirely,

and the ramblers who stomp across these heights are the

kind of hardy souls who don't mind the mud, drizzle and

patchy phone signal.

Walk here and you are alone with your thoughts and

the elements, the rocks – some of which were gruellingly

152

7

ST

DAVIDS

&

PEMBROKESHIRE ESSAY

STEPHEN

LEY

-

CAERLEY/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

PHIL

HARLAND/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

ST

DAVIDS

&

PEMBROKESHIRE ESSAY

carted off to Stonehenge 5000 years ago – and legends as

old as the hills. The trail begins in Bwlch Gwynt on the B4329,

where you can clamber up to 468m Foel Eryr (Eagle's Peak),

topped by a Bronze Age burial cairn. Here wild ponies graze

the grasslands, and across the distant glimmer of sea, you can

see all the way west to Ireland on a clear day.

From here, wander on

past a dark line of forest to

536m Foel Cwmcerwyn, the

highest point in the Preseli

Hills, where supposedly King

Arthur and his knights bat-

tled a fierce boar. Arthurian

legend lives on at the nearby

tor of Carn Bica, too, which

faces Bedd Arthur, an eye-

shaped stone circle that is

purported to be the final resting place of King Arthur. Climb

up to the Iron Age hill fort of Foel Drygarn, topped by three

Bronze Age burial cairns, and Bwrdd y Brenin (King's Table),

a flat stone said to hide a pot of gold.

The bluestone outcrops at Carn Meini mark the trail's end.

Here you can get a closer look at the spotted dolerite that has

been matched to early Stonehenge circles. Scientists have

found 'singing stones' here, which chime when struck with

a hammer and have the same sonorific qualities as those at

Stonehenge. You might not hear them sing, but observing

them in silence is like trying to decode the mysteries of the

universe and the meaning of life itself.

Walk here and you

are alone with your

thoughts, the elements,

and legends as old as

the hills.

153

ĸ

More Megalithic

Marvels

Pentre Ifan Hidden on a re-

mote hillside, this is Wales' larg-

est megalithic tomb. Its huge,

5m-long capstone balances on

three upright stones made of

the same bluestone used for

the menhirs at Stonehenge.

Carreg Samson Topped by a

massive, ingeniously balanced

capstone, this remarkable

dolmen sits in a farmer's field

near Abercastle, with phenom-

enal views of Strumble Head.

Carreg Coetan Arthur Legend

has it that this Neolithic burial

chamber in Newport was

formed by King Arthur himself

as he tossed down stones from

nearby heights.

Mynydd Carningli The

'Mountain of Angels' is an

extinct volcano and Iron

Age hill fort, littered with

hut circles. The views sweep

across the Bay of Ceredigion

and the Preseli Hills.

NICOLA

PULHAM/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

WENDY

CLAIRE

CORDES/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

How to

Boat times Day-trip boats

depart Martins Haven for

Skomer half-hourly 10am

to noon from Tuesday

to Sunday, April to Sep-

tember. Pre-book online

(welshwildlife.org).

When to go See puffins

during breeding season

(April to July) and pufflings

in summer. Come in Sep-

tember and October to coo

over the white furball pups

of Atlantic grey seals.

How much? Landing fees

vary depending on the

season (adult/child from

£40/24). An overnight

stay at the island's rustic

hostel starts at £55 in the

low season and £90 in the

high season (children half

price).

Puffin Heaven on

SKOMER

WILDLIFE | NATURE | ADVENTURE

27

A little blue boat bumps over the choppy sea to Skomer, whose ancient

volcanic cliffs punch above the tide-ripped Atlantic. In summer, the island is a

mass of pink thrift and white sea campion, and the trills and warbles of thousands

of seabirds fill the air: terns and fulmars, kittiwakes and peregrines, rare choughs,

red-billed oystercatchers, and everyone's favourite, puffins. So many puffins!

154

ST

DAVIDS

&

PEMBROKESHIRE EXPERIENCES

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Martins

Haven

St Brides

Bay

Atlantic

Ocean

Westdale

Bay

Pembrokeshire

Coast National

Park

Penycwm

Roch

Newgale

St Davids Solva

Broad Haven

Johnston

Angle

Dale

Haverfordwest

Milford

Haven

St Justinian's

Ramsey

Island

Grassholm

Island

Skomer

Island

Skokholm

Island

0

5 km

0

2.5 miles

e

Puffin days, Manx shearwater nights With over 42,500

puffins here, you’ll never get closer to these loveably comical

birds, with a wingbeat so fast (400 per minute) it’s as though

they operate on the wrong batteries. Follow the circular 4-mile

trail around the island in summer, and you’ll get close-ups of

busy puffins preparing their nests, bringing sand-eels in for

their newly hatched pufflings, darting across the path and

grunting and groaning in their burrows.

Staying overnight at the Old Farm is worth the wait. The

self-catering digs are basic, but you can experience the

island at its silent best when the day-trippers have departed.

Skomer is also the nesting ground and summer home of some

350,000 breeding pairs of Manx shearwaters – the world’s

largest colony. Head out at night to hear their ghostly cries as

they dive-bomb their burrows under the cloak of darkness.

Boating beyond The neighbouring islands are equally magical

for wildlife. Dale Sailing (pembrokeshire-islands.co.uk) runs

RIB safaris and cruises around Grassholm, the westernmost

point in Wales, which appears snow-white from a distance

because of its huge gannet colony (39,000 pairs). Or boat

around craggy Skokholm to spy storm petrels, puffins, Manx

shearwaters, razorbills and guillemots.

Off the coast of St Davids, the RSPB's Ramsey Island is

ringed by dramatic sea cliffs aflutter with choughs, peregrine

falcons, guillemots, razorbills, fulmars and kittiwakes. Thou-

sand Islands Expeditions (thousandislands.co.uk) has sole

landing rights to the island.

Far left top Puffin, Skomer Island

Far left bottom Gannet colony,

Grassholm Island

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ĵ When to Visit

From April to September,

the cliffs are stacked

with breeding seabirds:

puffins on the slopes,

fulmars in the crevices,

and razorbills, kittiwakes

and guillemots moving

towards the sea. From

late May, puffin eggs

hatch and parents return

with sand eels for their

growing chicks. Come

in mid-August through

September to see Atlantic

grey seals returning to

the island to breed and

have their pups. This is

also when hundreds of

thousands of young Manx

shearwaters leave their

burrows to make maiden

flights south across the

Atlantic. A stay in late

August is a must, with

fledglings looking for any

high point in order to get

airborne: rocks, walls,

even the top of your head

if you sit still enough.

 Tips from Lisa Morgan,

Head of Islands and Marine

at the Wildlife Trust of South

and West Wales,

welshwildlife.org

01 Puffin

These comical black-

and-white birds breed

in colonies on coastal

cliffs or islands from

April to August.

02 Atlantic

grey seal

Pembrokeshire is home

to 5000 Atlantic grey

seals. They come ashore

to moult in winter and

spring, and to pup in

autumn.

03 Manx

shearwater

The migratory Manx

shearwater breeds in

summer on rat-free

islands like Skomer,

then winters in South

America.

04 Thrift

An evergreen perennial,

thrift, or sea pink, puts

on quite a floral show

along the cliffs and

coast paths in late

spring and summer.

05 Sea campion

This delicate white bell-

shaped flower blooms

prolifically from May to

July. Skomer is carpeted

with it in summer.

06 Bottlenose

dolphin

Playful bottlenose

dolphins splash

offshore, especially near

Poppit Sands, Strumble

Head, Dinas Head and

Ramsey Island.

WILD CREATURES

of Wales

01

02

03

04

05

06

07 Harbour

porpoise

Shyer and smaller

than dolphins, harbour

porpoises only flick

a dorsal fin when

surfacing.

08 Razorbill

Razorbills are black-

backed, white-bellied

and have thick, blunt

beaks. They are deep-

sea divers, coming to

land only to breed.

09 Ocean sunfish

Up to 3m long and

weighing 2.5 tonnes,

this wondrous, dinner-

plate-shaped fish

(Mola mola) is huge.

Sometimes sighted in

the Irish Sea.

10 Guillemot

Brown, with white bellies

and sharp beaks, these

daredevils love cliffs and

steep ledges and come

ashore only to nest. See

them from March to July

at Stack Rocks.

11 Gannet

Fast fishers and expert

divers, these sleek

seabirds have white

bodies, black-tipped

wing tips, yellow

heads and long bills.

Grassholm shelters one

of the world's largest

colonies.

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How to

Getting there The

nearest train stations are

in equidistant Fishguard

and Haverfordwest.

Regular buses trundle

along the coast.

When to go Dodge peak

holiday crowds with a

spring or (for foraging)

autumn visit.

Where to stay Family-run

Caerfai Bay for a swish

seafront lodge and

coastal camping or

minimalist-chic Twr Y

Felin (twryfelinhotel.com),

an architect-designed

windmill conversion

awarded the Green Key

for its impeccable eco

credentials.

Green Light for

ST DAVIDS

ECO-FRIENDLY | NATURE | SUSTAINABLE

28

St Davids is Britain's smallest city and one of the country's brightest eco

stars, embracing green energy and biodiversity projects, and with a growing

crop of sustainable hotels and restaurants playing up foraged ingredients.

Offshore, ocean ecosystems are being restored as regenerative polyculture is

trialled to grow seaweeds and shellfish with zero input.

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Taking a sustainable leap Low-impact adventure is the

watchword, and TYF (tyf.com) gets you out on the water

around St Davids with carbon-neutral activities from coast-

eering to kayaking, surfing, SUP and rockpool safaris. Its aim

is to help people fall in love with nature in the hope this will

inspire them to protect it, with guides sharing their knowledge

on Pembrokeshire’s rich biodiversity and marine life. As Wales'

first B Corp (a business certified for meeting high social,

environmental, and ethical standards), it's well known for its

professional outdoor guiding and environmental leadership.

Forage focused Forage and cook your sustainable seafood

supper on Pembrokeshire beaches rich in marine life during

a coastal foraging experience with Craig Evans. On a day-long

course, you'll learn to sustainably forage from Wales' abundant

wild seafood larder, everything from laver seaweed to mol-

luscs, prawns, swimming crabs and edible plants.

It's a bug's life ''Bugs aren’t ‘disgusting, they are the future,'

or so says Dr Sarah Beynon, a local academic entomologist,

ecologist and farmer, who does a fine job raising awareness of

bugs' important ecological role at the Bug Farm (thebugfarm.

co.uk). Go for a ramble on trails through species-rich mead-

ows buzzing and hopping with insects and learn all about won-

derfully weird creepy crawlies in the bughouse before lunch

at the edible insect- and plant-based Grub Kitchen. Try Grub’s

signature gourmet bug burger for a unique tangy texture.

Far left top Foraging with Wild About

Pembrokeshire Far left bottom Grub

Kitchen Left Surfing near St Davids

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š Making Eco Waves

Eco-tourism on the St

Davids Peninsula begins

at the grassroots with

EcoDewi (codewi.org.uk),

which aims to tackle the

climate-emergency and

biodiversity crisis while

simultaneously improving

community wellbeing

through everything from

recycling to solar power.

Using nature as its refer-

ence point, its projects

include Mini Meadows,

helping to restore and cre-

ate wildflower meadows

that form rich habitats for

biodiversity and carbon

stores, organising regular

beach-clean events, and

establishing community

gardens, orchards and

a burgeoning Peninsula

Food Market. It also runs

regular Repair Cafes to

reduce waste and en-

courage people to repair

broken items for free.

FOOD | FORAGING | PRODUCERS

29

As chefs embrace culinary

roots with newfound gusto and

an eye for provenance, seasonality

and sustainability, Pembrokeshire’s

food scene is hotter than ever.

From garden-led gourmet to

seafood takeaway, foraged tasting

menus to street food on the

beach, all hungry eyes are on this

bountiful coastal region.

Pembrokeshire on

A PLATE

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Ĕ Wild Tastes

'Everything about Pembroke-

shire inspires me: plants,

berries, soil; trees, flowers,

grasses. It's not just about

fine-dining, it's also about

conservation. Ecosystems

are being destroyed: we need

to get back to our roots, back

to nature. And that begins

with what we eat.'

 Insights from Matt Powell,

chef and forager

@annwnrestaurant

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Left Really Wild Emporium (p162) Above left

Lobster and Môr Above right Chef Matt Powell

A Burst of the Sea

For a seafood platter to-go, call Mrs Will the

Fish, then sneak down to Solva’s harbour to

scoff by the sea. Or try Lobster and Môr in Little

Haven for picnic-perfect lobster brioches and

loaded crab sandwiches.

In Milford Haven, inside the swish Tŷ Hotel

Milford, Dulse Restaurant serves fresh, locally

sourced seafood in a sleek, sea-inspired space

with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the

marina. Order Welsh tea hot smoked salmon

and the market fish in Tenby Harbwr beer batter.

300-year-old Griffin Pub has a seafood-

focused menu with fresh lobster, crab and sea

bass sourced from local fishers. Perched right

on the Dale seafront, patrons spill onto the

pavement on balmy summer nights when the

pub buzzes with energy.

How to

Getting here St Davids

makes a good base.

It's equidistant from

the train stations

in Fishguard and

Haverfordwest, both a

half-hour drive away.

When to go You'll

find excellent seafood

year-round, but shellfish

is best in the R months

(September to April).

Foraged flavours burst

onto the scene in spring,

summer and autumn.

Advance bookings Top

tables are booked solid

in high season, and

even pubs fill up in a

flash. Reserve ahead.

161

Ivy-swaddled Stackpole Inn near Barafun-

dle Bay utilises Wales' bountiful land and sea

produce in their daily specials. Expect Solva

Seafoods, Carmarthenshire air-dried ham, and

Pembrokeshire potatoes to grace the menu.

Foraged Flavours

One look at Pembrokeshire’s thrashing ocean

and rugged hills ignites the hunter-gatherer in-

stinct. Stop by the Really Wild Emporium in St

Davids for foraged foods, sensational seaweed

brownies, small-plate evenings and six-course

tasting menus, bigging up wild Welsh ingredi-

ents. Swinging south to the Old Point House in

Angle Bay brings you to shipshape Café Mor,

the world’s first solar-powered seaweed kitchen.

Here, Jonathan Williams combs the shores for

foraged finds to create ocean-inspired brekkie

rolls, served with a seaweed twist.

Michelin Green Star recipient and passionate

fisherman and forager Matt Powell knows Pem-

brokeshire’s seashore and hedgerows inside out.

Join him for a forage before a 10-course feast at

162

F

Rising Producer

Superstars

Still Wild James Harrison-

Allen uses hand-foraged

botanicals in herby, floral

vermouths at his micro-

distillery set in the

Pembrokeshire National

Park.

St Davids Old Farmhouse

Brewery Mark and Emma

Evans produce sustainably

crafted pale ales and hoppy

lagers at their 14th-century

farm in St Davids.

Atlantic Edge Oysters

Marine biologist Andy

Woolmer sustainably

harvests deep-cupped rock

and stack oysters that taste

profoundly of the sea.

Pembrokeshire Chilli

Farm Chilli-loving Owen

and Michelle Rosser grow

chillies for their feisty jams

and sauces.

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St Brides

Bay

Solva

Lawrenny

Newgale

Little

Haven

Mathry

St Davids

Angle

Dale

Whitland

Porthgain

Pembroke

Haverfordwest

Fishguard

Tenby

Milford

Haven

Narberth

Penally

Stackpole

Still Wild

Pembrokeshire

Chilli Farm

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Annwn, a sustainability-focused restaurant housed

in a converted former bank in Narberth town.

Going Gourmet

A flower-swaddled country-chic escape near Nar-

berth, the Grove has a pinch of timeless magic and

luxury. Sip alfresco drinks before dinner by candle-

light in the Fernery. Sophisticated and seasonal tast-

ing menus riff on garden-grown ingredients and Pem-

brokeshire produce in dishes with cryptic-sounding

names like 'For the Love of the Sea'.

In St Davids, dark-walled, art-slung Blas is date-

night romantic. The menu puts a light foraged touch

on astounding local ingredients in dishes like cured

trout with beetroot and smoked crème fraiche and

Welsh lamb paired with goat cheese and sourdough

crumb. Georgian coaching inn turned boutique hotel

Llys Meddyg in Fishguard turns up the heat: fishing,

foraging, fermenting and smoking. Garden-grown

ingredients and local produce, cooked in a wood-fired

kitchen, inject flavour into seasonal dishes.

Perched above the sea in Penally, Rhosyn pairs

dreamy coastal views with locally sourced, artfully

crafted dishes like cod with prawn bisque. Sur-

rounded by rose-filled gardens, this 2 AA Rosette

restaurant offers both à la carte and tasting menus

blending fresh Pembrokeshire flavours with a cosy

coastal atmosphere.

Left Andy Woolmer, Atlantic Edge

Oysters Below Blas

163

BEACHES | HIKES | ISLANDS

30

Pembrokeshire's beaches are

like a figment of a pirate-obsessed

child's imagination, with rocks

around since dinosaurs walked the

earth and storm-bashed cliffs that

would wreck your ship if you had

one. Trails leap over stiles to dune-

rippled sands, castles and coves,

while boats bob over to puffin-

filled islands.

The Call of the

COAST

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PARKERSPICS/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

5 Rock Stars

Green Bridge & Elegug

Stacks A striking natural arch

and pair of limestone pillars.

St Govan's Chapel Spinning

in saintly legend, this tiny

hermit's cell is hewn from a

limestone cliff.

Pwlly Wrach The 'Witches'

Cauldron' is a collapsed cave

filled with brilliant green water.

Blue Lagoon A shockingly

turquoise pool in a flooded

slate quarry.

BILLY

STOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK

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BILLY

STOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK

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ST

DAVIDS

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PEMBROKESHIRE EXPERIENCES

Left Church Rock, Broad Haven South Above

left Barafundle Bay Above right Elegug Stacks

Beach Beauties

Barafundle Bay often tops 'best beach'

charts and rightfully so. Over the cliffs you

stomp, gasping as you catch sight of the most

ravishing scoop of blonde sand easing into

a pure turquoise sea. Dash down a flight of

steps and you reach the bay, flanked by pines

and dunes. It's no secret, so avoid weekends

and peak season.

Just as lovely is the wooded approach to

Broad Haven South, a gorgeous, dune-

backed sweep of golden sand, with Church

Rock leaping out of the sea. In June and July,

the flowering Bosherston lily ponds are like

a Monet.

If you prefer long, dune-flanked, surf-

hammered sands, try Freshwater West,

keeping an eye out for pupping seals below

the limestone cliffs in autumn. Smugglers hid

How to

Getting here The

A40 is the main road

gateway. Train stations

include Fishguard and

Haverfordwest. Coastal

buses run from May to

September (reduced

service in winter).

When to go Spring for

wildflowers; summer

for water sports, beach

time, island trips and

camping; autumn for

calm days and seal pups.

How to explore Hook

onto the 186-mile

Pembrokeshire Coast

Path or drive the

180-mile Coastal Way,

taking in the full sweep

of Cardigan Bay.

165

their booty in the ancient red sandstone cliffs

at Freshwater East in the 18th century. Now

its protected dunes light up with glow-worms

at dusk in summer.

Rocks of Ages

Beyond the allure of the beach, the Pembroke-

shire coast has geologists rubbing their hands

with glee. Wild wonders include the buckled

and contorted cliffs, caves and rock arches

at Druidston Haven, Skrinkle Haven and

Church Doors. Woods hazed with bluebells in

spring sweep down to the twin bays of Aber-

mawr and Aberbach, where low tide reveals

the tree stumps of an Ice Age forest.

Broad Horizons

On a stormy day and under leaden skies,

Strumble Head has an edge-of-the-world

feel to it, with its pounding surf, lighthouse

blinking in the gloom and the coast of Ireland

but a pencil smudge in the distance. Bring

166

ŦA Place of Stars

The air here tastes like

home. My soul navigates

to this edge of the land,

and standing with feet in

the lace edge of sea I feel

connected to all the world.

Rocks rise to skies

filled with raptors. The

mournful cry of buzzard, the

conversations of ravens, all

conspire to speak to me of

home. And time turns here

on the wings of birds, the

changing colour of land.

This is a place of stars,

hard to see sometimes as

we blot out the sky with our

lights, but here, Pembroke-

shire, you can watch the

month pass as the new

moon rests in the old moon's

arms. It is the beautiful wild

of it all that I love.

 Jackie Morris,

award-winning

artist and author of

Feather, Leaf, Bark

& Stone, jackiemorris.co.uk

@jackiemorrisartist

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Bay

Pendine

Mathry

St Davids

St Clears

Whitland

Pembroke

Haverfordwest

Fishguard

Tenby

Milford Haven

Cardigan

Kilgetty

Strumble

Head

Barafundle

Bay

Broad Haven

South

Freshwater

West

Dinas

Head

Blue Lagoon

St Govan's

Chapel

Pwll y

Wrach

Abermawr Bay

St Ann’s Head

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binoculars to watch migratory birds like storm

petrels, Arctic skuas and sooty shearwaters.

Nearby Dinas Head is a castaway fantasy, with

crazily gouged cliffs and rock stacks razoring

down to deep thumbprint coves lashed by the

Irish Sea. A 3-mile National Trust Trail loops

around the flower-draped headland, with vast

views of sea and sky, passing the romantic ruins

of St Brynach's Church. In spring, you might see

puffins returning to Needle Rock.

The circular 3.5-mile trail at St Davids Head,

further south, quickly takes you away from

the holiday crowds at Whitesands, heading

over gorse-clad cliff and stile, past hedgerows

embroidered with campion and thrift. Linger for

sublime hidden bays like Porthmelgan and its

ancient cliffs, and brushes with prehistory at an

Iron Age hill fort and the Neolithic burial chamber

of Coetan Arthur. From the distinctive crag of

Carn Llidi, the views reach all the way to Ireland's

Wicklow Mountains.

Lighthouse-topped St Ann's Head hides a

stirring coastline too. Passing through meadow

and kissing gate, and along cliffs where fulmars,

choughs and gulls ride the updraft, you reach the

pale, powdery crescent of Watwick Bay, and thrill-

ingly rugged Mill Bay, where Henry Tudor landed

his army in 1485 en route to the Battle of Bosworth.

Left Church Rock (p165),Broad

Haven South

Below St Ann's Head Lighthouse

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DREW

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STOCK

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Saints &

the Sea

MAKE THE

PILGRIMAGE INTO

PEMBROKESHIRE'S

CELTIC PAST

Some early Celtic

saints were born

in Wales – others

crossed the sea.

Still today you feel

their mystery in

Pembrokeshire:

whether gazing upon

St David's pilgrim-

venerated shrine,

hiking a coast path

to a hermit's cell or

climbing a hill to be

closer to the angels.

Left St David's Cathedral Middle St

Dogmaels Right St Govan's Chapel

Dewi Sant: Patron Saint of Wales

On the cliffs above St Non's Bay near St Davids, Dewi Sant

(St David) was born during a fierce storm in 500 CE, or so

the story goes. Indeed, a weather-beaten headland is an

apt spot to begin the journey of Wales' patron saint.

'On the Pembrokeshire coast you feel the spiritual

connection with the living landscape. This is what the

Celts called a "thin place", where the gap between heaven

and earth is small', says guide Iain Tweedale, who leads

pilgrims on the Wexford and Pembrokeshire Pilgrim Way,

which forges the saintly connection between Ireland and

Wales as it heads along the surf-ravaged coast from Ferns

to St Davids in the footsteps of St Aidan and St David.

According to the history books, St David cured blindness,

resurrected a dead child and survived poisoned bread.

The angelic vision of his teacher, Paulinus, inspired him

to found 12 monasteries across Wales and England. And

when preaching at Llanddewi Brefi, he made the ground

rise into a hill so the gathered crowd could hear him.

He travelled as far as Jerusalem to spread God's word,

but back at the monastery in St Davids, his life was one of

hard graft and abstinence – ploughing the fields by hand,

practising penance by standing up to his neck in freezing

water and subsisting largely on water and leeks.

He garnered a following during his life, but real fame

came after death. The shrine with the saint's relics in

mighty St David's Cathedral has attracted blister-footed,

penance-seeking pilgrims for 1500 years. Recognising this,

Pope Calixtus II canonised St David in 1123 and decreed

that two pilgrimages to St Davids equalled one to Rome.

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DAVIDS

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Saintly Legends

Many Pembrokeshire places have been touched by saintliness

– from Penally Abbey, where St Teilo was born and lived in the

6th century, to Caldey Island off Tenby, where St Illtyd's Church

displays a rare 5th- or 6th-century stone, inscribed in both Latin

and Ogham, a mysterious, hard-to-decipher early Irish language

of notches and horizontal scores, written and read vertically.

Other sites of great saintly

significance include St

Brynach's Church in Nevern,

with its trio of Ogham

stones. Or St Dogmaels,

where romantic abbey ruins

stand above an early Celtic

monastery, and the parish

church hides the 7ft-high

Sagranus Stone pillar, with

its inscription in Latin and

Ogham. St Caradog’s shrine

in St David's Cathedral pays tribute to the peace-loving patron

saint of harpists, dog lovers, and the seasick, who died in 1124.

Then there are the miracle sites or ‘thin places’. Among them

is rocky Mynydd Carningli (Mountain of Angels) near Newport,

where a solace-seeking St Brynach communed with angels.

On a wild stretch of coast near Bosherston, the clifftop hermit

cell of St Govan’s Chapel appeared when the saint was fleeing

pirates. Some legends are gorier, such as that of St Justinian,

beheaded on Ramsey Island, who carried his severed head to

the mainland, setting it down at St Justinian’s, where a sacred

spring that is still there today bubbled forth.

The Wexford and

Pembrokeshire Pilgrim

Way forges the saintly

connection between

Ireland and Wales as it

heads along the surf-

ravaged coast from

Ferns to St Davids.

169

Ē

Pilgrimage in

Pembrokeshire

In the Middle Ages, St Davids

was a pilgrimage destination

to rival Santiago in Spain, with

thousands of pilgrims from

the humblest right through

to kings like William the

Conqueror travelling to the

6th-century birthplace of St

David. Although it may seem

remote today, it was right

on the main sea highway for

the Celtic Christian Church,

connecting Wales to Ireland,

Scotland and beyond. The

peninsula has a deep spiri-

tuality and feeling of Celtic

connection. Today's pilgrims

are attracted to this 'Celtic

Camino' for similar reasons to

their medieval predecessors:

a journey of self-discovery

and a search for something

greater beyond themselves.

 Insights from

Iain Tweedale,

journeying.co.uk,

guidedpilgrimage.

co.uk

Hiking the Pembrokeshire

COAST PATH

HIKING | BEACHES | VIEWS

If ever you are going to fall head-over-heels in love with

Pembrokeshire, it will be on the coast path: 186 miles of castaway

bays, raging seas and mellow fishing villages, prehistoric rocks,

gorse-clad cliffs and kissing gates. Tough? At times. But it's worth

every blister.

31

Trip Notes

Getting around The coast path runs south–north from Amroth to St Dogmaels

(or vice versa). Hail-and-ride coastal buses ply the coast (daily from May to

September). For timetables and routes, visit pembrokeshirecoast.wales.

When to go Summer for long days and beach swims (but it gets busy), spring

for wildflowers and quiet trails, autumn for pupping seals below the cliffs.

Where to stay St Dogmaels, Fishguard and St Davids have plenty of

accommodation, and there are lots of campgrounds en route.

KERRY

WALKER/LONELY

PLANET

©

170

ĸ Hike Planning

The full 186-mile,

two-week-long hike is

a serious challenge,

involving 10,668m of

ascent and descent.

The itinerary given

here covers the first

five days (58.5 miles)

from St Dogmaels

to Whitesands.

Visit Pembrokeshire

(visitpembrokeshire.

com) is an excellent

planning resource.

The trail is well

signposted, but

consider getting

Cicerone's Walking

the Pembrokeshire

Coast Path guide.

ST

DAVIDS

&

PEMBROKESHIRE EXPERIENCES

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FROM LEFT: PHIL HARLAND/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

KERRY WALKER/LONELY PLANET ©

The tough, relentlessly steep leg

from St Dogmaels (15.5 miles) strides

from dune-rippled Poppit Sands over

starkly eroded cliffs to seal-favourite

Cemaes Head, then past striking rock

formations to Newport.

01

Wild and remote, the final

day wraps things up with a 10-

mile walk that negotiates high

cliffs and some scrambles to

St Davids Head and the broad

golden sweep of Whitesands.

05

Ragged cliffs, raging

seas and expansive views

define the next 12-mile leg.

Wood-backed coves like

Aberbach and Abermawr

and the Neolithic burial

chamber of Carreg Samson

enchant as you hike south

to pretty Porthgain.

04

Day three's 9-mile trek

traverses gorse-cloaked

volcanic cliffs. Glimpse Carreg

Wastad Point (scene of a

1797 French invasion), basking

seals and lighthouse-topped

Strumble Head en route to

Pwll Deri youth hostel.

03

The 12-mile, up-and-

over-cliff ramble on day

two eases the pace but

is still dramatic, ticking

off cove-indented Dinas

Head (pictured below;

watch for porpoises and

puffins) as it meanders

south to Fishguard.

02

ĩ Pubs for a Pint

Tafarn Sinc

£

After a bracing walk in the Preseli Hills, sip

locally brewed beer at this eccentric boozer,

with sawdust on the floor, flitches of ham

hanging from the ceiling and an attic’s worth

of old farming and mining curios.

Sloop Inn

£

Little has changed since thirsty seamen made

merry here in 1743. This rustic tavern in Porth-

gain delivers good vibes, live music and hearty

home-cooked food.

Ferry Inn

££

A coastal pub with character, a cracking fish

menu, and views of Teifi Estuary in St Dog-

maels. In summer, look out for coracle-caught

sewin, the rare and delicious local sea trout.

St Brides Inn

££

Enjoy an alfresco pint of Pembrokeshire ale

and local seafood (lobster and crab in season)

at this seaside pub in Little Haven.

ĕ Outdoor Thrills

Outer Reef Surf School

Learn to surf at Newgale Sands or Manorbier

before hitting the big breaks at Freshwater

West. Stand-up paddleboarding is also offered.

Newsurf

Newgale is battered by some of Pembroke-

shire's biggest waves. If you fancy hitting the

surf, hire boards, wetsuits or kayaks here.

Celtic Quest

Hit the cliffs and waters around Abereiddi

year-round with these coasteering experts,

who will kit you out with wetsuits, helmets and

buoyancy aids. Families welcome.

Mayberry Kayaking

These Fishguard-based pros guide sea-

kayaking tours (for adults and families) along

the rugged, cave-indented coastline.

Tenby Boat Trips

Cruise around monastic Caldey Island in

search of Atlantic grey seals. The Caldey and

St Margaret's cruise takes in impressive cliffs

and caverns, home to thousands of seabirds.

B Romantic Sleeps

Twr Y Felin

£££

Architect Keith Griffins used a 19th-century

windmill as the impetus for this slick, art-filled

hotel in landscaped grounds in St Davids.

Roch Castle

£££

A luxuriously revamped Norman fortification

that perches on a crag with far-reaching

views across farmland and out to sea.

Grove of Narberth

£££

Pure fairy-tale material, this whitewashed

vision of a country escape near Narberth

Boat trip passengers, Tenby

JAX10289/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

ST

DAVIDS

&

PEMBROKESHIRE REVIEWS

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

172

boasts vast gardens, arts and crafts interiors

and sensational restaurants.

Crug Glâs

££

Tucked away in glorious seclusion near St

Davids, this green-minded country manor

has beautiful grounds, stylishly old-fashioned

rooms and outstanding home-cooked food.

c Historic Vibes

Carew Castle

Rising like a vision above the glassy waters of

the River Carew, this whopping Norman castle

elicits gasps of wonder. Explore its rambling

limestone ruins and intact tidal mill.

St Gwyndaf's Church

In the tiny village of Llanwnda, this 8th-

century church showcases its antiquity in the

carved stones, inscribed with crosses and

Celtic designs, set into the outside wall.

Pembroke Castle

This spectacular and forbidding castle was

home to the earls of Pembroke for over 300

years and the birthplace of Henry VII, the first

Tudor monarch.

Castell Henlys

Rewind to the Iron Age at this authentically

reconstructed settlement, whose buildings

include thatched roundhouses, animal pens, a

smithy and a grain store.

Manorbier Castle

With its sturdy battlements and turrets, this

Norman castle is pure medieval magic. It was

the birthplace of Giraldus Cambrensis (Gerald

of Wales; 1146–1223), one of the country's

greatest scholars and patriots.

H Local Flavours

Runwayskiln

££

On a clifftop above Marloes Sands, this cluster

of lovingly converted farm buildings plays up

farm-to-fork flavours.

Ultracomida

££

There’s always a buzz at this tapas bar and

deli in food-loving Narberth. Go for a platter of

cured meats, fine cheeses and olives, or stock

up on picnic goodies.

JT at the Abergwaun Hotel

££

Housed in a laid-back, revamped space with

exposed stone walls and pops of greenery,

this award-winning restaurant serves rotating

dishes loaded with Welsh produce, including

roast lamb rump.

MamGu Welshcakes

£

In the cute harbour town of Solva, this rus-

tic-cool cafe devises exciting new riffs on the

humble Welsh cake, with flavours from leek

and cheese to chilli-chocolate.

Stonecrab

££

This fabulous harbourfront shack in Saun-

dersfoot has a cool nautical vibe and cracking

seafood – from local wild sea bass stuffed with

fennel, chilli, orange and sweet potato, to fresh

crab with samphire-white wine spaghetti.

MamGu Welshcakes

KERRY

WALKER/LONELY

PLANET

©

ST

DAVIDS

&

PEMBROKESHIRE REVIEWS

173

MID-WALES

NATURE | HIKING | WILDLIFE

 Trip Builder (p176)

 Practicalities (p178)

 Aberystwyth

Delights (p180)

 Desperately Seeking

Dolphins (p184)

 The Eisteddfod &

Traditional Welsh

Entertainment (p186)

 Machynlleth’s

Eco Cred (p188)

 Mountainous

Isolation (p190)

 Revolutionary

Roamings (p192)

 A Colourful

Yarn (p194)

 Offa’s Dyke Path

Options (p196)

 Spa Town

Oddities (p198)

 Riding the

Rails (p200)

 Listings (p202)

MIRRORMERE/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

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P E M B R O K E S H I R E

C A R M A R T H E N S H I R E

C E R E D I G I O N

Cardigan

Bay

Irish Sea

Snowdonia (Eryri)

National Park

Pembrokeshire

Coast National

Park

Derwenlas

Synod Inn

Barmouth

Llanon

Newcastle

Emlyn

Lampeter

Tregaron

Tywyn

Blaenannerch

Aberaeron

Llandeilo

Llanrhystud

New Quay

Cardigan

Carmarthen

Aberystwyth

Fairbourne

Ē

E

F

Ő @

ē

Ĥ

e

0

20 km

0

10 miles

Enjoy an interlude from the

wilds in culturally vibrant beach

town Aberystwyth (p180)

Ġ 5min from town centre

Ride the Heart of Wales Line,

alighting at charmingly rustic

stations (p200)

ŉ 1hr from Swansea to Llandeilo

One-time rebel refuge, wool powerhouse and

zany spa destination, remote Mid-Wales is today

a place only the eccentric and curious explore.

Most travellers deem this the great in-between, the

green gap on the map. Take the plunge into the

nothingness: it really is quite something.

MID-WALES

Trip Builder

Board a boat and

search for dolphins

and other wildlife on

Cardigan Bay (p184)

Ň 1¾hr from

Aberystwyth

176

MID-WALES BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

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G W Y N E D D

P O W Y S

E N G L A N D

Caban Coch

Reservoir

Llyn

Clywedog

Nant-y-

Moch

Reservoir

Claerwen

Reservoir

Llyn

Brianne

Llyn

Efyrnwy

Brecon Beacons

(Bannau Brycheiniog)

National Park

Pen

Pumlumon

Fawr

Eisteddfa

Gurig

Llangurig

Montgomery

Llanwrtyd

Wells

Llanfair

Caereinion

Presteigne

Crickhowell

Llandovery

Hay-on-

Wye

Rhayader

Knighton

Llangadog

Corris

Caersws

Machynlleth

Meifod

Sennybridge

Crossgates

Mallwyd

Builth

Wells

Llandrindod

Wells

Brecon

Talgarth

Dolgellau

Welshpool

Llanidloes

Newtown

Rhandirmwyn

ķ

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Q

Ĥ

KEN GRIFFITHS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

4 SEASON BACKPACKING/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

GARETH EVERETT/HUW EVANS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Follow the footsteps of Owain

Glyndŵr, the last Welsh prince,

via market town and moor (p192)

ń 40min from Newtown

to Knighton

Hike the Offa's Dyke Path

through the bucolic Wales–

England borderlands (p196)

ń 35min from Hereford

to Hay-on-Wye

Take the waters or

join in wacky events

in Powys' old-school

spa resorts (p198)

ń 45min from

Newtown

Discover biodiverse

beauty and biking trails near

Machynlleth (p188)

ŉ 45min from Aberystwyth

Make lonely inroads

into the Cambrian

Mountains, among

Britain's remotest

regions (p190)

ń 35min from

Aberystwyth

CERI

BREEZE/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

178

MID-WALES FIND

YOUR

FEET

Train Good services to Welshpool,

Newtown, Machynlleth and

Aberystwyth from London,

Birmingham, Manchester; great-

to-experience but ponderous

service to Knighton, Llandrindod

Wells, Builth Wells and Llanwrtyd

Wells on the Heart of Wales Line.

Bus Infrequent services to most

towns (Monday to Saturday).

Car Mid-Wales' many singletrack

lanes have a passing-place system.

Etiquette is that when confronted

with an oncoming vehicle, the

vehicle nearest a passing place

moves into that space to allow

traffic to pass. Livestock herding

is commonplace on lanes in rural

Mid-Wales: expect waits of up to 10

minutes. For travelling along tiny

lanes and trails, consider hiring a

bicycle.

GETTING AROUND

cross-region

train £15

pub meal

£15–18

detailed hiking

map £12

Practicalities

WHEN TO GO

HOW MUCH

FOR A...

APR–JUN

Spring dresses

Mid-Wales in

beautiful green.

OCT–DEC

October for fair

weather without crowds;

Christmas markets.

JUL–SEP

Best and busiest time

to visit for coast,

countryside and festivals.

JAN–MAR

Low season; wildest

weather; Aberystwyth is the

liveliest destination.

ARRIVING

Birmingham Airport (birminghamairport.co.uk),

70 miles east of Welshpool in northeast Mid-

Wales, is most convenient for overseas arrivals.

Aberystwyth, with trains via Shrewsbury/

Birmingham to London, has the best regional

connections. From here, trains go to Machynlleth,

Welshpool and Newtown, while useful buses in-

clude the T5 TrawsCymru service down the coast

from Aberystwyth to Aberaeron, New Quay and

Cardigan. Car hire is also available in Aberystwyth.

EATING & DRINKING

Sewin are succulent sea trout, caught by coracle fishers using a

method pre-dating the Roman conquest; they're a big (if hard-to-

come-by) thing on the Teifi estuary. Another delicious local speciality

is Cambrian lamb, which was recently awarded PGI status for its

region-specific rearing practices. The region is also known for

producing some of the finest cheeses in Wales through producers like

Caws Cenarth and Holden Farm. Wash them down with craft beers

from breweries like Monty's (Montgomery) or Mantle (Cardigan).

Best beach cafe

Must-try pub

Plwmp Tart (p202)

Harp Inn (p202)

USEFUL WEBSITES

lonelyplanet.com Offers an in-depth Wales

guidebook with extensive Mid-Wales coverage.

naturalresources.wales Great information on

the region's forests.

thecambrianmountains.co.uk Detailed guides and

resources on visiting the upland of Wales.

WHERE TO STAY

Remoter areas have few sleeping options; booking ahead is recommended.

Mid-Wales has become one of the most innovative regions in Britain for

glamping, too, which has significantly diversified the array of lodgings.

MONEY

Fourteen main towns have banks,

thinly spread across a large

region. Withdraw enough cash to

last until you visit the next.

CONNECT & FIND YOUR WAY

Wi-fi Accommodation and places

to eat have wi-fi. 4G and 3G are

non-existent in remote parts of

the region.

Navigation Aberystwyth has

the best tourist information

centre (10am to 5pm, Monday to

Saturday), two blocks back from

the beach, along with Ceredigion's

county museum. Get regional info,

guides, maps and books here.

179

MID-WALES FIND

YOUR

FEET

Town/Village Atmosphere

Aberystwyth

Easily the region’s liveliest town. Not truly

representative of the Mid-Wales experience.

Machynlleth

Some of Wales’ best eco retreats beckon.

Best things to do are outside town.

Elan Valley

Decent array of accommodations in wild

countryside surroundings. Hard to access

without a car.

TOP:

BRENT

HOFACKER/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

BOTTOM:

NEIL

LANGAN/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

MID-WALES EXPERIENCES

CULTURE | ART | FOOD

32

For at least 150 years, suave

seaside town Aberystwyth has

simmered with cultural frisson: it

boasts the nation’s first university

(1875) and the National Library

of Wales. Break up cultural

sojourns with its standout eating

and drinking scene, and make

time for a deckchair on the beach

(sunshine not guaranteed).

Aberystwyth

DELIGHTS

180

WOZZIE/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

r Indie Aber Shops

Ystwyth Books One of Wales'

best secondhand bookshops,

specialising in Welsh interest.

Coastal Antiques Retro fur-

niture, clothes, books, music

and curios.

Red Vintage Upcycled lamp-

shades and local crafts.

Polly Independent fashion

labels and chic gifts.

Driftwood Designs Original

crafts, gifts and prints with a

Welsh bent.

JAX10289/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

BBA

PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

MID-WALES EXPERIENCES

Left Aberystwyth Railway Station

Above left Constitution Hill funicular

Above right National Library of Wales

Victorian Vogue

Rock up by train and you’ll see the first token

of the town’s determination to impress in the

form of its grand railway station, built as

Aberystwyth neared its golden age in 1865.

Your first stop in Mid-Wales’ chicest town will

probably be the seafront, with Wales’ first

pleasure pier at one end, a long sand-and-

shingle beach, and at the other end Wales’

longest funicular railway, climbing Constitu-

tion Hill for far-reaching views of the town and

Cardigan Bay.

Literary Legacy

This Victorian resort razzmatazz is enjoyable

but not atypical, so next climb Penglais

Hill on the other side of town (come on foot

through woodsy Penglais Nature Park, or

drive) to the world-class National Library of

How to

Getting here Cam-

brian Line trains from

Shrewsbury arrive via

Welshpool, Newtown

and Machynlleth.

When to go

Aberystwyth is one of

Mid-Wales' few year-

round destinations, but

the mild weather of late

spring and September,

away from high-season

crowds, enhances

the town's appeal.

Eyes on the town

Aberystwyth abuts

stunning countryside,

but so does much

of Wales: prioritise

cultural and culinary

attractions here if time

is limited.

Aber gold Call

Aberystwyth 'Aber';

that's what locals do.

181

Wales (library.wales), frequently featuring in

debates about the planet's loveliest libraries.

Completed in 1915, this is Wales', and one of

Britain's, foremost book repositories both

in size and collection. Rare books include

three of the four Ancient Books of Wales, the

earliest-known Welsh-language texts, and

the Laws of Hywel, the first codified Welsh

law, which defined how medieval Welsh

society functioned. The art collection is also

internationally significant, sporting hundreds

of works from iconic Welsh landscapist Kyffin

Williams; paintings by Richard Wilson, one of

Wales' most influential painters and a major

inspiration to Turner and Constable; plus

two of Turner's Welsh landscapes. Perhaps

the single most astonishing artefact is Floor

Two's 14th-century Nanteos Cup, a bowl with

purportedly curative powers to all who drink

from it, discovered near Aberystwyth. It was

supposedly fashioned from the True Cross and

formerly thought to be the Holy Grail itself.

182

H

My Favourite Aber

Bites & Tipples

Ultracomida is a Spanish

deli with an intimate wine bar.

Call in for a vermouth flight

or linger while grazing on

cheese, tortilla and jamon.

The owners of former fish

restaurant Pysgoty have

opened Jonah's Kitchen,

a fantastic lunchtime cafe

opposite their fish shop. Try

the oh-so-fresh scallops or

king prawn coconut curry.

For relaxed, Middle

Eastern–style dining

visit Medina, a spacious

restaurant with delicious

salads and cakes.

Drinks-wise, begin in

Bottle & Barrel for Welsh

craft beers, then wander

over to Baravin, order a su-

perb dry Martini and grab a

window seat for great views

of Aber's shoreline.

 By Shumana Palit,

co-founder, Ultracomida,

Aberystwyth

@ultracomida

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Vale of Rheidol

Railway Station

Aberystwyth

Train Station

Ystwyth

Books

SY23

Ultracomida

Bottle &

Barrel

Pier

Red

Vintage

Polly

Medina

Coastal

Antiques

Jonah's

Kitchen

0

200 m

0

0.1 miles

e

D

Baravin

(0.03mi);

Funicular

(0.4mi)

D

National Library of Wales (0.7mi);

Aberystwyth Arts Centre (0.8mi)

MID-WALES EXPERIENCES

Check the bowl's bite marks: many of those who

sought the cup's curative powers clearly weren't

content with a sip! Apply for a reader's ticket

online beforehand to view texts in the magnificent

reading room, or see a rotating selection of

collection highlights, books and paintings in the

exhibition rooms.

Arts Hub

Higher up the hill, Aberystwyth Arts Centre

(aberystwythartscentre.co.uk) is Wales' biggest.

It's an amazing place to touch base with Welsh

contemporary art, with a concert hall, theatre and

cinema hosting an eclectic range of performances

and screenings, and several exhibition spaces.

Something interesting is always going on, and you

can enjoy a thought-provoking bite to eat in the

capacious cafe. From town, it's the next turn-off

on the A487 after the library.

Food for Thought

Another consequence of Aberystwyth being a

major seat of learning are its classy eating and

drinking spots. This foodie-centric town offers

more than your typical fish-and-chips seaside fare.

Foraged and home-grown ingredients are heavily

featured in classic modern Welsh cuisine, creative

international dishes and deli offerings.

Left Ultracomida Below Drumming

workshop, Aberystwyth Arts Centre

183

KEITH

MORRIS/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

ABERCPC/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

JANET

BAXTER

PHOTOGRAPHY/

A

BAY

TO

REMEMBER

-

WILDLIFE

BOAT

TRIPS

©

PJ

PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

How to

Getting here Cardigan’s

most convenient train

station is Aberystwyth,

38 miles north. From

here, bus T5 runs to

Cardigan hourly, Monday

to Saturday.

When to go Trips operate

April to October; for

seal-pup season visit in

autumn.

Operator A Bay to

Remember (bayto

remember.co.uk) offers

several wildlife-watching

cruises departing from

St Dogmaels.

Tickets & booking

Trips cost per person

£30/45/60 for one/1½/

two hours; no kids

under four. Book well in

advance.

MID-WALES EXPERIENCES

Desperately Seeking

DOLPHINS

WILDLIFE | NATURE | BOAT TRIP

33

Cardigan Bay harbours the largest resident population of

bottlenose dolphins in Europe, and one of only two such populations

in the UK. Cruise out from Cardigan on a boat trip around some of

the bay's quietest shores to see them, along with bickering seabird

colonies, basking Atlantic grey seals and yawning sea caves.

184

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Cardigan

Bay

Teifi Marshes

Nature Reserve

Riv

er

T

e

i

fi

Tresaith

Blaenannerch

Aberporth

Cardigan

St Dogmaels

Mwnt

Cardigan

Island

Ynys

Lochtyn

Cemaes

Head

Ĥ

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Ē

0

5 km

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e

Launch point High-speed RIB A Bay to Remember boat tours

begin from the adjacent town of St Dogmaels. Take the B4546

to St Dogmaels and look for the ‘The Moorings’ pontoon and

slipway on your right (100m past the Ferry Inn). There is on-

street parking, but allow yourself plenty of time to find a space,

as it can be busy.

The two greatest things about your voyage with A Bay to

Remember are that it's often the only vessel navigating these

marine-life-rich waters, and its boats are faster than most,

meaning you can cover more distance and thus maximise

your chance of spotting dolphins. As the operators emphasise,

these are wildlife-watching trips rather than dolphin-

watching ones: dolphins are glimpsed between six and nine

times out of 10, depending on what voyage you select. Look

out for snoozing Gray Atlantic seals draped over rocks, shy

harbour porpoises, and circling seabirds ready to dive.

Sealife search Typical voyages speed out of the Teifi estuary

to Cardigan Island, renowned for its raucous razorbills and

guillemots, then continue northeast as far as Mwnt, Aber-

porth and Ynys Lochtyn – all the while on the lookout for

dolphin pods. The boat then returns southwest to round rug-

ged Cemaes Head and Southwest Wales’ highest sea cliffs in

search of seals. Here, sheer rock faces make the coast below

inaccessible from land, and a sensation of otherworldly soli-

tude descends as your boat inches closer to some stunning

sea caves, a couple of which are favoured by the seals.

Far left top Boat trip with A Bay to

Remember Far left bottom Razorbills

MID-WALES EXPERIENCES

185

W

Dolphin-

Watching Tips

• A boat trip is best for

spotting Cardigan Bay's

dolphins, but good land-

based places to see them

are at Mwnt beach, from

the cliffs, and New Quay

Harbour.

• Chances of sightings are

better from a headland

within the special area

of conservation between

Aberarth (Ceredigion)

and Ceibwr Bay

(Pembrokeshire).

• Don't look too far out to

sea: bottlenose dolphins

love the shallow waters

and fish stocks within

500m of the shore.

• Calm seas are best for

sightings.

• If you are lucky enough

to spot dolphins, the best

approach is to watch

them, by all means, but

never try to change their

natural behaviour.

 Tips from Tony Barber,

A Bay to Remember dolphin-

and wildlife-watching trips,

baytoremember.co.uk

01 PHIL CREAN A/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 02 KEITH MORRIS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 03 THE PHOTOLIBRARY WALES/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 04 JEFF MORGAN 11/

ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 05 JEFF MORGAN 11/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO © 06 DAVID WILLIAMS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 07 JEFF MORGAN 08/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©,

08 THE PHOTOLIBRARY WALES/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 09 JEFF MORGAN 03/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 10 KEITH MORRIS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

01 Maes

The events arena

in the Eisteddfod, a

competitive Welsh-

language traditional

poetry, music, dance

and arts festival.

02 Bardic crown

A silver or gold crown,

produced annually for

each new Eisteddfod,

given to the composer

of the best poem written

in free verse.

03 Bard

A storyteller, often

performing in verse,

who would provide the

main entertainment in

medieval Welsh royal

courts.

04 Bardic chair

The bardic chair is

offered to the writer

of the best poem in

cynghanedd (strict

metre) in the Chairing

of the Bard ceremony.

02

03

04

01

THE EISTEDDFOD &

Traditional Welsh Entertainment

05 Corn Gwlad

A trumpet, played at

the Eisteddfod, on

which a fanfare is

performed to precede

the announcement of

the winning poets.

06 Crwth

A box-shaped six-

string lyre. Crwths

have featured in the

Eisteddfod since the

first festival in 1176.

07 Hirlas Horn

Medieval vessel from

which a prince and

his retinue would

communally drink,

today ritually presented

by Eisteddfod hosts to

the gorsedd, (masters

of ceremonies).

08 Part-unsheathed

sword

Another potent Eistedd-

fod symbol, denoting

that the festival is a

vehicle for peace.

09 Welsh triple

harp

Originating in 17th-

century Italy but

considered the

embodiment of Welsh

traditional music, with

three parallel rows of

strings rather than one.

10 Male voice choir

Born in pit-working

towns in 18th-century

South Wales, the iconic

male voice choirs have

helped forge for Wales its

nickname 'land of song'.

05

07

09

06

08

10

KEITH

MORRIS/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

PA

IMAGES/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

Founded in 1404 as the seat of Owain Glyndŵr's inaugural Welsh Parliament,

'Mach' is where Wales' turbulent history and contemporary Cymru collide. This eco-

minded market town is at the heart of Wales’ only UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and

has some breathtaking eco-retreats and mountain-bike trails.

How to

Getting here

Shrewsbury-Aberystwyth

trains stop hourly at

Machynlleth. The T2

Machynlleth–

Aberystwyth bus service

stops at Llyfnant Valley

Bridge (near Cors Dyfi)

and London House (near

Ynys-Hir).

When to go Visit the

Ynys-Hir nature reserves

and Ynyslas year-round

(visitor centre April to

September). Visit Cors

Dyfi April to September.

Reserve rampage All

three reserves are within

15 minutes’ drive; walk

trails at each in one easy

day out.

MID-WALES EXPERIENCES

Machynlleth's

ECO CRED

BIKING | NATURE | ECO STAYS

34

188

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Valley

Snowdonia (Eryri)

National Park

Ca

mb

ria

n

Mo

un

ta

in

s

Derwenlas

Forge

Llanbrynmair

Dylife

Abergynolwyn

Borth

Tywyn

Corris

Machynlleth

Aberdovey

Cors Dyfi

Reserve

Ynys-Hir

Ynyslas National

Nature Reserve

Eco Retreats

Living Room

Treehouses

Dyfi Bike Park

Ĥ

0

5 km

0

2.5 miles

e

Biosphere Beauty Bang in the middle of UNESCO’s Dyfi Bio-

sphere Reserve, Machynlleth is a convenient hub from which to

explore this pristine protected space. Handily, several nature re-

serves combine unique landscapes with interpretative centres.

While the region’s uplands are exquisite, wetland wonderlands

are Machynlleth’s selling point. The diverse estuarine Cors

Dyfi and Ynys-Hir, with habitats including grassland, broadleaf

woods, mudflats and swamp, protect the likes of ospreys, otters

and polecats, while the dunes and raised bog of Ynyslas Na-

tional Nature Reserve are among the most extensive in Wales.

On your Bike Speed through greenery and whip around the

dense forest trails at Dyfi Bike Park, the brainchild of bike

royalty, the Atherton family, who've turned their passion for

downhill mountain racing into one of Wales' must-visit spots

for adrenaline seekers. In the leafy Dyfi Forest, pro-riders have

meticulously designed the downhill and technical courses, with

groomed jump lines and steep gullies best suited to confident

riders.

Trails are graded, so you can choose your own cycling adven-

ture based on your experience and need for speed. And with the

park's nifty shuttle service to the mountain top – a taxi for you

and your bike – you can skip the sweaty climb and save energy

for the exhilarating race down.

Far left top Mountain biking,

Machynlleth Far left bottom Foraging

in the Ynyslas National Nature Reserve

MID-WALES EXPERIENCES

189

B Eco-Escapes

A sustainable sleepover

after your eco-excursions

is apt. More than accom-

modation, they are ex-

periences in themselves,

and Machynlleth harbours

some of Wales' best:

Eco Retreats (ecoretreats.

co.uk) A quintet of off-grid

yurts way out in the Dyfi

Forest, spread over 50

acres and 25 minutes'

drive from the nearest

paved road. Each yurt

has a wood-fired outdoor

bath, walking is fantastic

and a riverside teahouse

and conscious living

centre offers meditation

and massage.

Living Room Treehouses

(living-room.co) Six artis-

tic off-grid treehouses oc-

cupying a stand of native

woodland and the UK's

first rentable treehouse

lodgings. Environmental

innovations include

spring-water-powered

fridges and a solar-

powered laundrette.

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Clywedog

Nant-y-Moch

Reservoir

Claerwen

Reservoir

Snowdonia

(Eryri)

National Park

Ca

m

br

ia

n

M

ou

nt

ai

ns

Pen

Pumlumon

Fawr

Drygarn

Fawr

Eisteddfa

Gurig

Llangurig

Llanwrtyd

Wells

Llanwrthwl

Cwmystwyth

Borth

Rhayader

Tregaron

Pontrhydfendigaid

Devil's

Bridge

Machynlleth

Carno

Llanidloes

Ponterwyd

Llyn

Brianne

Bwlch Corog

Abergwesyn

Common

Teifi

Pools

Wales'

Remotest

Phonebox

Ĥ

Ģ

0

10 km

0

5 miles

e

MID-WALES EXPERIENCES

190

Mynyddoedd Cambria (the

Cambrian Mountains) are knuckles of

green and yellow upland that roll from

the northern edge of the Brecon Beacons

all the way to southern Snowdonia and

constitute the remotest region in Britain

south of the Scottish Highlands. Without

further ado, here’s how to get into the

middle of the most majestic bits and feel

like you’re all alone out there.

Enchanting edgelands

Often, the Cambrian

Mountains’ periphery,

where lower ground swoops

upwards through dramatic

forests and mountainsides,

is more picturesque than the

harder-to-access midriff and

conjures similar sensations

of solitariness. In the west,

the finest example is the hike

up Nant Egnant Valley to the

Teifi Pools, a mythical huddle

of tarns marking the source

of the River Teifi. Further

north, Bwlch Corog off the

Aberystwyth–Machynlleth

road is a delightful pocket of

woods-meet-moor, managed

to restore centuries-old

native habitats and grazed

by wild horses. Entering the

mountains from the south,

Abergwesyn Common,

where the River Irfon strug-

gles through a precipitous

gorge, is the start point for

the off-piste path up Drygarn

Fawr, the highest point in the

southern Cambrian Moun-

tains. Daredevils can drive

the steep-twisting Devil's

Staircase road to lovely Llyn

Brianne, a ravishing reservoir.

How to

Getting here Trains serve Aberystwyth and

Heart of Wales Line stations Llandrindod Wells

through Llandovery. Useful buses are the X47

(Aberystwyth–Ponterwyd–Llangurig–Rhayader–

Llandrindod Wells), X14 (Builth Wells–Llanwrtyd

Wells–Llandovery) and 522 (Aberystwyth–

Pontrhydfendigaid–Tregaron).

When to go April to September, outside of which

many facilities close. Places to eat/drink often only

open Friday to Sunday (and note that shops and fuel

stations are few and far between; bring supplies).

Mountainous

ISOLATION

HIKING | NATURE | STARGAZING

35

MID-WALES EXPERIENCES

191

RADNORIMAGES/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

Above Pen Pumlumon Fawr

summit trig point

High point Mid-Wales’ loftiest

land, Pen Pumlumon Fawr

(752m ; pictured), sits amid

the region’s wildest country.

If the stark summit views to

Nant-y-Moch Reservoir, or

the rugged traipse onward

to the Source of the River

Severn, don’t make you feel

lonesome, nothing will.

Remains to be seen Some-

times to put nothingness into

perspective, seeing some

settlement is necessary. For

this, visit the lonely mine

workings at Cwmystwyth or

the abandoned dwellings by

Wales’ remotest phonebox

on the Tregaron–Llyn Brianne

road. Both beg the question

of how humans could have

forged livelihoods in such

barren spots.

ć

After-Dark Fun in

the Mountains

It’s the top-quality low light

pollution in the night sky that

makes the Cambrian Moun-

tains the go-to destination for

stargazers. Part of the region,

the Elan Valley, has been

designated an International

Dark Sky. But for me, it’s

about being out at night so

that I can make the most of

the day. Why let the fun stop

when the sun sets?! I love

those first night-time sounds:

an owl hooting, a navigating

bat fluttering. Then the

greatest show on Earth gets

under way. Seeing those

first stars gets your mind

racing. One of my favourite

astrophotography spots is

the Arch near Devil’s Bridge:

the Arch creates a great

foreground of night sky and

you can often capture deep

space objects like nebulae.

 By Dafydd Wyn

Morgan,

Cambrian Mountains

Initiative Project

Manager, Tregaron

MID-WALES EXPERIENCES

Revolutionary

ROAMINGS

ROAD TRIP | HISTORY | NATURE

This long-weekend driving tour through Mid-Wales' northern wilds

follows in the footsteps of Wales' last native prince, Owain Glyndŵr. The

itinerary loosely follows the remote Glyndŵr's Way long-distance footpath

(pictured below), crossing Wales twice between Knighton and Welshpool...and

ventures a little further too.

36

Trip Notes

Getting here Knighton, start of the Glyndŵr's Way footpath, is a good start

point for this itinerary too. It's connected by train to Shrewsbury, and Glyndŵr

won the important Battle of Bryn Glas against the English near the town.

When to go For the fairest weather (April to October); for Machynlleth's Owain

Glyndŵr Centre (Easter to September).

How to go Drive between itinerary highlights in a long weekend.

SIMON

WHALEY

LANDSCAPES/

ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

192

ı

Glyndŵr

Rising

Glyndŵr's rise from

hard-done-by vassal-

in-chief to Prince of

Wales began with a

land dispute. This

precipitated his

15-year campaign

against the crown

from 1400, during

which he orches-

trated devastating

victories over the

English, united most

of Wales, and won

French and Scottish

support. Today, most

places in Wales have

an Owain Glyndŵr

story to tell.

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Mid-Wales' highest point,

Pen Pumlumon Fawr, hosted

the Battle of Mynydd Hyddgen

(1401), the Glyndŵr Rising's

first victory against the English.

It's a remote out-and-back hike

from Glaslyn near Dylife.

01

The motte-and-bailey

Sycharth Castle, 14 miles north

of Welshpool, was Glyndŵr's

home. Once a stronghold so

grand it impressed Henry V, it's

now a peaceful, grassy hillock

surrounded by woods.

05

Welshpool and the

lavish Powis Castle near-

by were among the first

places to be ransacked

by Glyndŵr and mark

the beginning/end of

Glyndŵr's Way.

04

Harlech Castle, 90 minutes

by train from Machynlleth, is

a late-13th-century triumph of

military architecture built by

English King Edward I. It fell to

Glyndŵr in 1404, becoming the

Rising's symbolic HQ.

03

Machynlleth is where Glyndŵr

called his parliament and was

proclaimed Prince of Wales: the

Owain Glyndŵr Centre occupies

the original parliament site and is a

fantastic resource on Glyndŵr's life.

02

FROM TOP: JOHN DAVID PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

SINEAD_PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

LORDBPHOTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

R

A Colourful

Yarn

THE STORY OF THE

MID-WALES WOOL

INDUSTRY

In the mountainous

midriff of Wales,

sheep graze almost

every field and hilltop.

Yet the place of wool

in Welsh culture is

seldom appreciated

beyond Wales.

Unravel the strands,

though, and wool is

a fascinating inroad

into exploring and

understanding the

country's hinterlands.

Left Sheep, Cambrian Mountains

Middle Welsh cloth mill circa 1873

Right Woollen textiles, Newtown

MID-WALES ESSAY

Medieval Roots

Wales' upland pastures have been important sheep-

rearing terrain for millennia, but it was the 12th-century

arrival of Cistercian monasteries, founded in remote

locations and devoted to farming, that precipitated

industrial-scale wool production. Mid- and North Wales

benefited for several centuries from proximity to the

Shrewsbury Drapers Company, one of Britain's foremost

wholesale wool dealers. As Wales' burgeoning network of

mills increased the wool trade's potential for expansion,

it came to influence every facet of life in many commu-

nities − just as coal mining would. Wool production even

affected place names: pandy (fulling mill) and felin (mill)

still populate Welsh maps today.

Victorian Boom

By the 19th century, the fast-flowing water of the Upper

Severn Valley around Newtown and along Ceredigion

and Carmarthenshire's Teifi Valley was powering woollen

mills sufficient to employ thousands of spinners, weavers,

fullers, tailors and drapers: a huge percentage of the

available workforce. Fleeces were carded (untangled),

spun into woollen yarn, woven into cloth that was cleaned

and thickened by fullers, made into garments by tailors

and sold by drapers. Mid-Wales' Newtown thrummed

during the Industrial Revolution with Wales' biggest, most

advanced woollen industry. Welsh flannel, the original mail

order and social reform for workers all arose in Newtown

as a result, and Newtown magnate Pryce Pryce-Jones

could count Queen Victoria among his customers. In a

darker side to the story, it was Welsh wool that helped

194

TONY

SMITH/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

CHRONICLE/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

MID-WALES ESSAY

clothe West Indian slaves and attired both Welsh miners and

soldiers in Britain's overseas colonies. But at its zenith, the

Welsh woollen industry was internationally renowned.

Crash & Comeback

A decline spurred by machinery costs, fire outbreaks at Mid-

Wales' major wool producer Cambrian Mills and competition

from northern English mills meant that by 1919 Welsh wool

was on its last legs, reduced

to a few small-scale, ailing

mills. The British Wool

Marketing Board, controlling

all sales of wool produced

in Britain from The 1950s

onwards, exported wool

internationally as 'British',

while many remaining Welsh

weavers used imported wool.

The provenance of Welsh

wool was becoming lost.

But tastes change. In the 21st century, bodies like the

Cambrian Wool Initiative, backed by Prince Charles and

established to safeguard the origins of wool from Mid-Wales'

Cambrian Mountains, believe high-quality Welsh woollen

products will continue growing in appeal, with customers keen

for there to be a story behind their purchases. According to

Welsh blanket expert Jane Beck, demand for traditional Welsh

tapestry – weavings featuring a double-sided pattern – has

been stratospheric in the last 15 years. As the mills still

operating dwindle, though, the question is whether Wales'

rich wool legacy has the means to survive.

Mid-Wales' Newtown

thrummed during the

Industrial Revolution

with Wales' biggest,

most advanced woollen

industry.

195

ĸ

Explore the

Story of Wool

Jane Beck Welsh Blankets,

Tregaron Sells a fascinating

collection of traditional Welsh

blankets both antique and

contemporary.

National Wool Museum,

Drefach Felindre Housed

in the 1902-built Cambrian

Mills woollen mill, showcasing

collections of textiles and

machinery used in wool

production, with a still-

functioning textile mill.

Textile Museum, Newtown

Spread across the former

working and living quarters

of 19th-century hand-loom

weavers; tells the tangled tale

of the wool industry in Indus-

trial Revolution–era Newtown

and its wider significance.

MID-WALES EXPERIENCES

Offa's Dyke Path

OPTIONS

HIKING | NATURE | HISTORY

Built by Mercian king Offa in the 8th century to separate his kingdom

from Welsh territories, Offa’s Dyke is a bulky earthwork thrusting along the hilly

Wales–England border between Chepstow and Prestatyn, traversed throughout

by a glorious 177-mile long-distance trail. This itinerary has you walking the

loveliest stages.

37

Trip Notes

Getting around Along the path itself, Knighton has a mainline railway station;

Welshpool has a station nearby.

When to go April to October.

Duration The full path divides into 13 stages of 10 to 18 miles: this itinerary

sees you tramping four stages (55 miles).

JOHN

HAYWARD/

ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

196

c

Welsh

Marches

The name of the

dyke's borderlands

originated when

William the Con-

queror, acquiring

control of England

but finding Wales

fiercely resistant,

installed powerful

Marcher Lords in

border towns like

Chester, Shrewsbury

and Brecon, aiming

to subdue the Welsh.

Great castles arose,

and the region

became a dangerous

frontier for centu-

ries, subject to vio-

lent Norman–Welsh

clashes.

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Begin at bookshop-blessed

Hay-on-Wye and forge north

over the Radnorshire hills to

quaint market town Kington.

01

From Buttington Bridge, a

short walk along Montgomery

Canal towpath whisks you into

Welshpool, where you'll find lavish

Powis Castle at journey's end.

05

From Brompton

Crossroads, the route

runs close to the

trail's loveliest town,

Montgomery, to finish

at Buttington Bridge.

04

Knighton, bang in the middle

of the hike, houses the informative

Offa's Dyke Centre and is your

launchpad for the walk's toughest

stage, to Brompton Crossroads.

03

Ramble from Kington

to Knighton along the most

scenic stage of the path,

which sports well-preserved

sections of dyke along with a

tempting diversion to comely

market town Presteigne.

02

WAY

OUT

WEST

PHOTOGRAPHY/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

SABEL

INFANTES/LNP/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

How to

Getting here Trains on

the Heart of Wales Line

(p200) run several times

daily between Shrewsbury

and Swansea, connecting

all four destinations.

When to go June through

August are best to catch

a bizarre festival in

Llanwrtyd or Builth Wells.

What to try Sample

hand-crafted real ales at

the tiny Heart of Wales

brewery. This six-barrel

plant brews local

favourites and seasonal

specials and is based at

the Neuadd Arms Hotel in

Llanwrtyd Wells.

MID-WALES EXPERIENCES

Spa Town

ODDITIES

CULTURE | FESTIVALS | NATURE

38

You may raise an eyebrow at the unexpectedly grand settlements of

Llandrindod, Builth, Llangammarch and Llanwrtyd Wells rearing out of the hills

in flurries of ostentatious Victorian architecture. Experience the peculiarities of

rural Welsh culture at these one-time spa resorts, courtesy of colourful festivals,

countryside hikes and a smattering of quirky country house hotels.

198

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Common

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Wellness & Weirdness

Llandrindod's lavish past Separated by 15 miles of soggy,

scenic upland, 'the Wells', as this curious quartet of commu-

nities area known, wooed Victorian wellness seekers for de-

cades following the discovery of several mineral-rich springs

in the vicinity. This explains all the showy architecture,

especially in the most upscale spa town, Llandrindod Wells,

where buildings like the pine-green Metropole Hotel, built to

accommodate spa-goers, are a sight to behold. Llandrindod

also, interestingly, retains its old spa-resort layout. Explore

the Rock Park, among Wales' first public parks, with its

19th-century spa buildings, arboretum and springs ranging

from saline to sulphuric to radon, or take a turn at Llandrin-

dod Lake, created to let Victorians exercise without seeming

to be doing so!

Eccentric events Little Builth Wells’ big claim to fame is the

Royal Welsh Show, the most important of Wales' agricultural

shows, which showcases countryside life in all forms, from

sheepdog trials and shire horse shows to falconry displays

and forestry demonstrations. The main extravaganza happens

in July, but May's Smallholding Festival at the same venue

promises similar rustic fun. Just along the River Irfon from

Builth, Llanwrtyd Wells takes the biscuit for bizarreness. The

World Alternative Games (greenevents.co.uk) is a year-round

programme of strange shenanigans featuring World Bog Snor-

kelling Championships, a Man Vs Horse Marathon and more.

Better still, you can participate in most events.

Far left top Metropole Hotel

Far left bottom World Bog Snorkel-

ling Championships

MID-WALES EXPERIENCES

199

ā

Five Spots to

Take the Waters

Abergwesyn Common

Splash in the River Irfon

as it burbles prettily along

a gorge 5 miles north of

Llanwrtyd Wells.

Lake Country House

Hotel Check into one of

Mid-Wales' finest country

house hotels outside

Llangamarch Wells, and

use the spa.

Llanwrtyd Wells Enter

the World Bog Snorkelling

Championships, one of

this offbeat town's best

events.

Rock Park Drink from

the purportedly healing

springs of this landscaped

Llandrindod Wells park.

Penddol Rocks Recon-

noitre these spectacular

rocky rapids on the River

Wye a short walk from

Builth Wells. Downstream

of the rapids, beaches

entice you in for a paddle.

MID-WALES EXPERIENCES

Riding the

RAILS

TRAIN RIDE | NATURE | MARKET TOWNS

Pootling through 32 backwater stations between Swansea and Shrewsbury,

mostly within middle-of-nowhere Mid-Wales, the Heart of Wales is the rail line

that time forgot. Absolutely none of the stops would make it onto any 'best of

Wales' itinerary, but therein lies the rustic charm.

39

Trip Notes

Getting around Check train schedules on the Heart of Wales Line website

(heart-of-wales.co.uk). Tickets can be bought online, and there is always

room on board. Most stations have four daily departures in each direction

(two each way on Sundays).

When to go April through September sees communities on the line at their

perkiest (and with their facilities open).

Top tip Don’t rush: this journey is best broken up by time spent in at least

one sleepy settlement en route.

SIMON

WHALEY

LANDSCAPES/

ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

200

Ē

Heart of Wales

Line Trail

More meandering

than the railway is the

long-distance trail

loosely following it,

offering opportunity

to appreciate the

surprisingly gentle

countryside in the

cwms (valleys)

beneath the moors.

Winding from Llanelli

to Craven Arms, the

142-mile path divides

into 19 stages, each

starting and finishing

at the next station

along the line.

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JAN SHIELDS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ALAN KEITH BEASTALL/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Characterful Llandeilo is known for

its candy-coloured houses, numerous

independent boutiques and the mighty

Dinefwr Castle, ensconced in extensive

mature woodland on the hill above.

01

Enfolded within Shropshire

Hills Area of Outstanding Natural

Beauty, the handsome English

town of Church Stretton, once

known as 'Little Switzerland'

because of its fetching

landscapes, makes a great base

for hiking the countryside.

05

The start/finish of the Heart

of Wales Line Trail, Craven

Arms has guided walks starting

at the Discovery Centre and an

on-site cafe serving sumptuous

Shropshire Cream Teas.

04

Hugging the border so tightly

its railway station (pictured left)

sits in England, trapped-in-time

market town Knighton boasts

some of the region's best hiking

along delightful Offa's Dyke Path.

03

Victorian spa resort

Llandrindod Wells still

retains intriguing vestiges

of bygone glamour. The

Rock Park preserves the

original spa buildings,

lovely landscaped grounds

and mineral-rich springs

that enticed 19th-century

wellness-seekers.

02

H Coffee, Sweet Treats & Pubs

Plwmp Tart

£

The best beach cafe in Mid-Wales is tucked

down a labyrinth of lanes above Penbryn

Beach, offering exquisite, inventive cakes and

light lunches.

Aberdyfi Ice Cream Co

£

Aberdyfi Ice Cream Co have this pretty pink

outlet in Aberystwyth, offering Mid-Wales’ best

ice cream and coffee in one joint.

Y Ffarmers

£

A 20-minute drive outside Aberystwyth in

Llanfihangel-y-Creuddyn, this smart estab-

lishment offers probably Mid-Wales’ tastiest

village pub menu and an enticing beer garden.

Harp Inn

£

A rare example of a Welsh longhouse, this

atmospheric tavern has excellent elevated

pub grub and fine panoramas of the rolling

borderlands around Old Radnor.

H Fine Dining

Checkers

£££

In the picturesque market town of Montgom-

ery, this renowned restaurant-with-rooms

within a 17th-century coaching inn offers

three-course set lunches or dinners display-

ing a Welsh-French influence.

Harbour Master

£££

A prettily positioned 19th-century harbour

master’s house on the quayside reinvent-

ed Aberaeron’s dining scene. Feast on

award-winning, creatively prepared Cardigan

Bay seafood, Welsh lamb and more.

Ynyshir

£££

Located near a Machynlleth nature reserve,

Ynyshir earned Wales its first two-star Michelin

restaurant. The meat-heavy multi-course

menu is 'ingredient-led' and intensely fla-

voured.

B Isolated & Indulgent Sleeps

Elenydd Wilderness Hostels

££

These two independent accommodations

alone in the moors beyond Llyn Brianne are

some of the remotest in Wales or England.

Use them to extend your rambling adventure

and sleep in unsurpassed solitude.

Stellar Safari Lodge

££

Group glamping experience, hidden among

the trees on a family farm. Sleeps up to six.

Soak in the private hot tub and wrap yourself

in Welsh woollen blankets by the warming fire.

c Castles & Abbeys

Cardigan Castle

This 12th-century fortress was where Wales'

first Eisteddfod was held in 1176, and is an in-

teresting window into that and other colourful

historic episodes. Terrific restaurant too.

Powis Castle

Mid-Wales' most ornate property sports some

eclectic paintings and artefacts, including

many from India and the Far East, and boasts

the country's loveliest landscaped gardens.

Strata Florida Abbey

A serene, scenic 12th-century Cistercian

Abbey, resting place of many Welsh princes.

Don’t miss the colourful mosaics at the rear.

MID-WALES REVIEWS

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

202

r Food, Booze & Crafts

Monty’s Brewery

This Montgomery brewery makes some

of Wales’ best-regarded brews. Arrange in

advance to pick up orders.

Caws Cenarth

Known as one of Wales' most daring

cheese-makers: triumphs include reviving tart

Welsh farmhouse Caerphilly and fine-tuning

French cheeses. Order beforehand.

Corris Crafts Centre

From traditionally made leather to furniture

carved from local wind-blown trees, this

set of craft studios, where you can observe

craft-making in action, is among Wales’ best.

ā Great Lakes, Waterfalls & Beaches

Elan Valley

These 19th-century dams straddling the

Elan and Claerwen Valleys created five huge

reservoirs within 70 sq miles of trail-crossed

moorland containing Wales’ most important

land-bird habitat.

Pistyll Rhaeadr

Tumbling down the mountainous divide

between Mid- and North Wales near Llan-

rhaeadr-ym-Mochnant, this impressive 73m

cascade is the largest single-drop waterfalls in

Britain.

Traeth Bach

One of Ceredigion’s most stunning beaches,

a quiet sandy cove accessed by a 2-mile walk

from Penbryn Beach followed by a scramble

down some rocks.

Ē Trails, Trains & Wildlife

Vale of Rheidol Railway & Devil's Bridge

This restored steam train run, originally

opened in 1902, ascends 12 miles from

Aberystwyth to the precipitous, waterfall-

splashed gorge of Devil's Bridge.

Cambrian Way

Wales' ultimate long-distance hike winds

between Cardiff and Conwy via the country's

rugged midriff, on unsigned paths or off-path

altogether, providing vital hiking access

across Mid-Wales' wilderness.

Gigrin Farm Red Kite Feeding Station

In one of Britain's greatest-ever conservation

successes, centres like this across Mid-Wales

brought the red kite, once almost extinct, back

to being a common Welsh bird.

Devil's Bridge

BILLY

STOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

MID-WALES REVIEWS

203

SNOWDONIA,

ANGLESEY &

THE NORTH

MOUNTAINS | BEACHES | HIKING

 Trip Builder (p206)

 Practicalities (p208)

 Ynys Enlli

Pilgrimage (p210)

 Ynys Llanddwyn

for Lovers (p212)

 The Sands Below

the Summits (p214)

 The Northwest

Fortified (p216)

 Walk Conwy's

Medieval Town

Walls (p218)

 Seaside Fun in

Llandudno (p220)

 Crafting the

Craft (p222)

 Boating Llangollen

Canal (p224)

 Berwyn Mountains

Magic (p226)

 Prehistoric Wales

in Pictures (p228)

 Beyond

Snowdon (p230)

 The Sparkle

of Slate (p234)

 Listings (p236)

PAJOR

PAWEL/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

#

#

#

#

#

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#

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Ù

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#

#

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Holy

Island

Ynys Enlli

(Bardsey Island)

Llŷn

Peninsula

Braich

y Pwll

Holyhead

Bay

Cardigan

Bay

Caernarfon

Bay

Atlantic

Ocean

Llyn

Alaw

Nefyn

Cemaes

Trefor

Aberdaron

Pwllheli

Amlwch

Holyhead

Abersoch

E

Ő

Y

ġ ħ

Ő

e

0

20 km

0

10 miles

Discover the dramatic

Snowdonia (Eryri) be-

yond Snowdon (p230)

ń 20min from

Caernarfon to Rhyd-Ddu

Snowdonia (aka Eryri) is this precipitous region’s

show-stealer. It sports soaring peaks, including Yr Wyddfa

(Snowdon), Wales' highest mountain, and promises plenty

more sheer pleasure besides. But the captivating cameos

include three UNESCO sites, Wales’ best hotel and, along

almost all the coast, sweet, far-stretching fudge-coloured sands.

SNOWDONIA,

ANGLESEY &

THE NORTH

Trip Builder

Make Wales' most magical pil-

grimage to Braich y Pwll and Ynys

Enlli (Bardsey Island, p210)

ń 1hr from Porthmadog

Follow the course

of true love to Ynys

Llanddwyn (p212)

ń 45min from

Bangor

Gape at Harlech Castle,

one of a quartet of

UNESCO-listed Northwest

Wales fortresses (p216)

ŉ 1½hr from Machynlleth

206

SNOWDONIA,

ANGLESEY

&

THE

NORTH BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

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G W Y N E D D

P O W Y S

F L I N T S H I R E

D E N B I G H S H I R E

I S L E O F

A N G L E S E Y

W R E X H A M

C E R E D I G I O N

C O N W Y

Puffin

Island

E N G L A N D

E N G L A N D

Berwyn

Mountains

Tremadog

Bay

Red

Wharf

Bay

Irish Sea

Llyn

Brenig

Alwen

Reservoir

Llyn

Trawsfynydd

Llyn Tegid

(Bala Lake)

Llyn

Celyn

Llyn

Efyrnwy

Snowdonia

(Eryri)

National Park

Clwydian

Range

Yr Wyddfa

(Snowdon)

Y Felinheli

Llandrillo

Dinas

Derwenlas

Corwen

Denbigh

Llangollen

Conwy

Harlech

Barmouth

Bethesda

Betws-

y-Coed

Llanfair

Caereinion

Ruthin

Tywyn

Corris

St Asaph

Capel

Curig

Rhyd-Ddu

Mold

Llanberis

Machynlleth

Chirk

Talsarnau

Benllech

Beddgelert

Bala

Mallwyd

Llan

Ffestiniog

Prestatyn

Beaumaris

Porthmadog

Rhyl

Blaenau

Ffestiniog

Abergele

Llandudno

Dolgellau

Welshpool

Colwyn

Bay

Newtown

Caernarfon

Wrexham

Liverpool

Bangor

Llanrwst

Aberdyfi

Birkenhead

Erddig

Fairbourne

Q

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v

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Ģ

FROM LEFT: TOMAS MAREK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

KATIE THORPE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

S-F/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Enjoy the seaside the

Victorian way in lovely

Llandudno (p220)

Ġ 2min from town

centre

Tour North Wales' most

tantalising beaches, start-

ing from Talacre Beach

(p214) ń 10min from

Prestatyn

Hike around the hidden

Berwyn Mountains (p226)

Ň 30min from Wrexham

Cruise a narrowboat

along Llangollen Canal

over UNESCO-listed

Pontcysyllte Aqueduct

from Wrenbury (p224)

ŉ 15min from

Whitchurch, England

Patrol Britain's

finest town walls

in Conwy (p218)

Ġ 1min from

town centre

ALEX

DANIELS/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

208

SNOWDONIA,

ANGLESEY

&

THE

NORTH FIND

YOUR

FEET

Train In the south, the main line of

the regular Cambrian Coast Line

runs through Aberdyfi, Harlech

and Barmouth to Porthmadog

and Pwllheli on the Llŷn Peninsula.

Regular mainline services also run

from Chester through Prestatyn,

Conwy, Llandudno Junction and

via several stops on Anglesey

to Holyhead. Porthmadog has

heritage narrow-gauge railways

connecting to stops in Eryri

(Snowdonia) National Park: check

Ffestiniog & Welsh Highland

Railways (festrail.co.uk).

Bus The most useful route is

TrawsCymru's T3 service between

Wrexham and Barmouth, calling

at Llangollen, Corwen, Bala and

Dolgellau.

Walk You're in one of Europe's

best hiking spots. Capel Curig is

an ideal base for exploring Snow-

donia’s best hiking trails, with easy

access to soaring peaks like

Yr Wyddfa and Tryfan.

GETTING AROUND

country pub

meal £25–35

day's bike hire

£35–55

tent site per

adult £15–25

Practicalities

WHEN TO GO

HOW MUCH

FOR A...

APR–MAY

Spring often brings best

weather; Llandudno's

Victorian Extravaganza.

OCT–DEC

Crowds depart; fair weather

can linger. Great surfing on

Llŷn Peninsula.

JUN–SEP

Summer holidays bring

hordes; Llangollen's Music

Eisteddfod (August).

JAN–MAR

Wet; wild; snow on

Snowdonia's peaks challenges

outdoor enthusiasts.

ARRIVING

Wrexham General Railway Station In Northeast

Wales; has direct trains along the north coast via

Conwy and Llandudno Junction out to Holyhead

on Anglesey, plus services via Shrewsbury to

Cardiff Central and to the Wirral in England.

Barmouth Railway Station Good access point if

travelling from Mid-/South Wales, with direct trains

south/southeast to Aberystwyth/Shrewsbury

and north to Porthmadog (change for Snowdonia

narrow-gauge rail rides) and the Llŷn Peninsula.

TOP:

LARISA

BLINOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

BOTTOM:

FOTEMA/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

EATING & DRINKING

Juicy, meaty Conwy mussels are PDO-designated shellfish hailing

from Conwy Estuary's mussel beds. Favoured by many leading chefs

and flavoured by the Menai Strait from which it comes, Halen Môn

Anglesey Sea Salt is filtered through sand and mussels before it

seasons your meal, and has PDO status. Vale of Clwyd Denbigh Plum

is the only variety of plum native to Wales, usually harvested August

to September. For the feistiest cheddar in Wales, look no further than

Snowdonia Cheese Company (pictured bottom right).

Best country pub

Must-try tipple

Pen-y-Gwryd (p237)

Aber Falls Distillery's gin (p237)

MONEY

North Wales Rover tickets (tfw.wales), valid on main-

line services (not Snowdonia narrow-gauge lines),

can save MONEY on trains. Cadw (cadw.gov.wales)

has passes that save on admission charges if you're

visiting several of its historic sites.

WHERE TO STAY

North Wales offers charming historic towns, beautiful beachside villages

and settlements in the middle of Snowdonia's finest mountain scenery.

WILDERNESS

ACCOMMODATION

The Mountain Bothies Associa-

tion (mountainbothies.org.uk)

manages many remote shelters

out in Snowdonia's wilds for hikers

and bikers on overnight trips.

CONNECT & FIND YOUR WAY

Connection 4G can disappear

without warning in the moun-

tains. Most accommodation can

get you connected through wi-fi,

however.

Info centres Tourist info

centres can be found at Aberdyfi,

Harlech, Llandudno, Conwy,

Llangollen, and in Snowdonia Na-

tional Park at Llanberis’ Hwb Eyri

and Betws-y-Coed’s Information

Centre.

Online Go North Wales (gonorth

wales.co.uk) has a wealth of

resources.

SNOWDONIA,

ANGLESEY

&

THE

NORTH FIND

YOUR

FEET

Town/Village

Atmosphere

Conwy

Stunning, well-connected medieval walled

town. Array of accommodation and

restaurants. Busy in summer.

Capel Curig

Gorgeous middle-of-Snowdonia village.

Hiking hub. Limited accommodation can

fill up fast.

Aberdaron

Dreamy Llŷn Peninsula village. Near some

of North Wales' best beaches. Public

transport down here isn't great.

Llangollen

Attractive, cultured town perfect for

accessing Llangollen Canal and Berwyn

Mountains. Out-of-the-way for Snowdonia

and Northwest Wales.

209

LOOP

IMAGES/GETTY

IMAGES

©

ANGUS

REID/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

How to

Getting there Trains

run from Shrewsbury

to Pwllheli on the Llŷn Pen-

insula; several daily buses

(Monday to Friday) make

the Pwllheli–Aberdaron

run. From Aberdaron, it’s a

3-mile drive or 3- to 4-mile

walk to Braich y Pwll.

When to go Ynys Enlli

visits are possible March

to October; pick rain-free

weather with decent

visibility if stargazing.

Getting around Walk

between Aberdaron and

Braich y Pwll if possible.

Boats run from Porth

Meudwy to Ynys Enlli

(bardseyboat

trips.com).

Ynys Enlli

PILGRIMAGE

HISTORY | BOAT TRIP | STARGAZING

40

Come gaze at what medieval bards called the ‘direct path to

Heaven’, firstly from the history-laced headland of Braich y Pwll, where

for 1500 years the land has run out for wandering pilgrims, leaving

only sea between them and their goal, and secondly by voyaging to

picturesque Ynys Enlli (Bardsey Island), purported burial place of

20,000 saints and Europe’s First Dark Sky Sanctuary.

210

SNOWDONIA,

ANGLESEY

&

THE

NORTH EXPERIENCES

# Ù

Ħ

E E

Y Y

ņ

Ynys Enlli

(Bardsey

Island)

Llŷn

Peninsula

Cardigan

Bay

Aberdaron

Bay

Aberdaron

St Mary's

Abbey

Tŷ Pellaf

Cafe

Braich

y Pwll

Mynydd

Mawr

Enlli Chapel

Porth Meudwy

Ĥ

Y

0

2 km

0

1 mile

e

Spiritual Spots

Clifftop contemplation Standing above grassy, gorsey

Braich y Pwll headland near Mynydd Mawr viewpoint, one

often becomes rather reflective. It’s not just the knockout

views out to Bardsey Island over the wave-smashed cliffs;

it’s more the weight of history. For at least 1.5 millennia, this

has been a sacred outpost. Since Cadfan, an early Christian

saint, came to this headland on his way to founding a mon-

astery on Bardsey in 516 AD, the faithful have been flocking

here. By medieval times, three pilgrimages to the island were

worth one to Rome – and from Braich y Pwll pilgrims would

probably have paused for their first good look at their island

destination. From the Bronze Age hut circles near the view-

point, paths weave both along the headland and south to cut

steeply down the cliff to St Mary’s Well, seemingly associat-

ed with Bardsey’s St Mary’s Abbey. From distinctive cliff-top

rock Maen Melyn, the Wales Coast Path skirts the Llŷn’s

wildest, craggiest coast around to Porth Meudwy.

Ynys Enlli For day visits, boat trips allow you three to four

hours on the island. Complete your pilgrimage with a stroll

from the slipway north to end-of-the-track St Mary's

Abbey, a tranquil 13th-century ruin. Star-seekers can stay

overnight in rustic accommodation to witness the cosmos

in all its glory. As dusk fades into cobalt black, the island's

protected night skies become a luminous tapestry of stars,

planets and the ethereal glow of the Milky Way – all visible to

the naked eye.

Far left top St Hywyn's Church

Far left bottom Ferry leaving Porth

Meudwy

211

R

Solitary Sojourns

at the Llŷn's Tip

North Wales Pilgrim's

Way (pilgrims-way-north-

wales.org) Arrive on the

Llŷn courtesy of this 135-

mile walk, winding by saint-

ly spots from Flintshire's

Basingwerk Abbey.

St Hywyn's Church Visit

Aberdaron's 12th-century

church on a far more

ancient site, and another

resting place for pilgrims

embarking for Bardsey.

Island holiday cottages

(bardsey.org) Stay to

experience Bardsey's

beauty after the day-

trippers depart.

Tŷ Pellaf farm Grab island

refreshments in North

Wales' most cut-off-from-

it-all cafe.

Take a meditative moment

in Enlli's 19th-century

chapel, snuggling beneath

Mynydd Enlli in a lovely

location by the abbey.

SNOWDONIA,

ANGLESEY

&

THE

NORTH EXPERIENCES

PHILIP

BROOKES/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

PETE

STUART/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

How to

Getting here The nearest

village is Niwbwrch

(Newborough), 13 miles

southwest of Bangor and

4 miles from Bodorgan

railway station on the

Bangor–Holyhead line.

When to go St Dwynwen's

Day (25 January) is apt;

otherwise any day with

ethereal light in the sky.

Approach Most start

the Ynys Llanddwyn walk

from Newborough Warren

car park, 2 miles south of

Niwbwrch. Instead, begin

at Maltreath car park,

nearer the station, for a

beautiful build-up through

Newborough Forest.

Ynys Llanddwyn

FOR LOVERS

FOREST | BEACH | HISTORY

41

A sand-fringed appendage hanging off southern Anglesey,

Ynys Llanddwyn is the most romantic place in Wales. Ancient

ties with St Dwynwen, Welsh patron saint of lovers, entice the

enamoured, but majestic coastal pine forest and Anglesey's biggest

beach are draws in their own right. Come fall head over heels.

212

SNOWDONIA,

ANGLESEY

&

THE

NORTH EXPERIENCES

#

#

Ù

Ù

G

ġ

ħ

Ŕ

Abermenai

Point

Ynys

Llanddwyn

Menai

Strait

Caernarfon

Bay

Niwbwrch

Aberffraw

Maltreath

Traeth

Llanddwyn

Newborough

Forest

Ynys yr

Adar

Llyn Parc

Mawr

# Ù

0

2 km

0

1 mile

e

SNOWDONIA,

ANGLESEY

&

THE

NORTH EXPERIENCES

Course of True Love

Fabulous forest Two thousand splendid acres of Corsican

pine, Newborough Forest lets in enchanting dappled light

and walking through it renders the Ynys Llanddwyn experi-

ence more magical. Constituting Wales’ first coastal National

Nature Reserve alongside Ynys Llanddwyn and dune-backed

Newborough Warren sands, the forest is a haven for red

squirrels, best observed in Llyn Parc Mawr.

Saintly sights Follow paths southwest to where trees merge

into dunes above Traeth Llanddwyn beach, running stunning-

ly over 5 miles either side of Ynys Llanddwyn. Ynys Lland-

dwyn is a tidal island, but only spring tides cut it off. Dwynwen

founded a church here during the mid-5th-century AD that

was soon being visited by pilgrims. These pilgrims craved

resolution in love, obtained by observing fish movements in

the Holy Well, or cure from sickness, as Dwynwen became

proficient in preparing remedies. Ruins remain of the later

church, which was built over Dwynwen’s after this became

a prosperous medieval pilgrimage site. Two nearby turn-of-

the-century crosses, one plain, one Celtic, commemorate

Dwynwen’s long-lasting appeal.

Nature This serene, tussocky space is also for appreciating

nature: several sandy island bays, a boisterous cormorant

population on close-by islet Ynys yr Adar and one of Wales’

most iconic coastal vistas. This sweeps seductively across

Menai Strait along to the Llŷn, which theatrically dips like a

dragon’s backbone into the sea. No wonder Dwynwen stayed.

Far left top Newborough Forest

Far left bottom Church ruins, Ynys

Llanddwyn

213

F

Dwynwen: A Life

Well Loved

According to legend,

Dwynwen was one of King

Brychan Brycheiniog’s

24 daughters. Her suitor,

Maelon, wanted to marry

her. But despite loving him

back, Dwynwen, a virgin,

rejected Maelon. Praying

to be cured of her passion,

she was given potion by

an obliging angel that

turned Maelon to ice. God

then granted her three

wishes. Dwynwen asked

that Maelon be unfrozen,

that all sincere lovers find

happiness, and that she

should never be married

herself. Wishes granted,

she retreated to Ynys

Llanddwyn, becoming

a hermit. She became

renowned for sorting

out lovers’destinies and

curing the sick, was paid

visits by the afflicted from

across Wales, and would

become a saint by the

Middle Ages.

The Sands Below

THE SUMMITS

BEACH | NATURE | HIKING

Beneath those big peaks, North Wales is framed with

sublime golden sandy beaches. Unwind on the best, from empty

strands only accessible by footpath through enormous dunes

to castle-crested shores stunning enough to be the stuff of

Caribbean coastal dreams.

42

Trip Notes

Getting here Harlech has a close-by railway station , and Talacre and Llanbed-

rog Beaches are walkable from their nearest stations, but otherwise you'll need

your own wheels.

When to go Wales' sunniest weather is often, perversely, in spring and

autumn, and these seasons offer decent chances to catch the beaches

crowd-free.

Getting around Starting this trip from Talacre Beach and heading

anticlockwise around the coastline is best.

MATT

GIBSON/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

214

G

Ice-Cream

Delights

Aberdyfi Ice Cream

Fresh-from-the-dairy

ice cream on Aberdyfi

harbourfront.

Two Islands Ice

Cream Suave

Abersoch spot

priding itself on

natural ingredients:

try the South Wales–

North Wales marriage

of Coaltown Coffee

and Halen Môn sea-

salt flavour.

Looking Glass Old-

school Llandudno

parlour; doesn't

disappoint.

SNOWDONIA,

ANGLESEY

&

THE

NORTH EXPERIENCES

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FROM LEFT: JOHANN KNOX/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

COLIN WARD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Facing both the Dee

Estuary and the Irish

Sea, dune-screened

Talacre Beach belongs

to a broad sandy

expanse stretching to

Rhyl and beyond. It's

graced with a 1776-built

lighthouse (pictured

far left).

01

The 4-mile tawny

smile of Harlech

Beach is overlooked by

magnificent Harlech

Castle, backed by Morfa

Harlech’s huge sand

dunes and blessed with

captivating Snowdonia

mountain views.

05

Another unmissable

Llŷn locale is the

tree-backed mile-long

curve of Llanbedrog

Beach, with its Caribbe-

an cay–like appearance

and sheltered sandy

shore.

04

Llŷn Peninsula boasts

havens like Traeth Port-

hor near Aberdaron, better

known as Whistling Sands for

the squeak bare feet make

on the dry blonde powder.

03

Anglesey has many beaches

befitting a 'Best in Wales'

compendium, but the eastern

shore's Traeth yr Ora is an alluring

introduction. It's a footpath-only

approach to the secluded sands

from Traeth Lligwy.

02

#

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#

#

#

#

#

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#

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#

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Llŷn

Peninsula

Tremadog

Bay

Irish Sea

Snowdonia

(Eryri)

National Park

Dinas

Conwy

Harlech

Betws-y-

Coed

Criccieth

Capel

Curig

Llanberis

Beddgelert

Trawsfynydd

Beaumaris

Llan

Ffestiniog

Porthmadog

Blaenau

Ffestiniog

Caernarfon

Bangor

Llandudno

Rhyd-Ddu

Q

Q

Q

Q

Q

Q

0

10 km

0

5 miles

e

216

SNOWDONIA,

ANGLESEY

&

THE

NORTH EXPERIENCES

Combine King Edward I's

foursome of imposing UNESCO-

designated strongholds with the

mightiest of the Welsh-built fortresses.

If you are victorious in visiting all of the

fortifications in this battlement-bedecked

corner of Wales, you have experienced

the country's most formidable castles,

from Harlech to Conwy via the jewel of

them all, Caernarfon.

Hardcore Harlech Com-

mence your castle conquer-

ing on a high. Hilltop Harlech

Castle is the most astonish-

ingly situated of Edward I’s

castles hereabouts (climb up

via one of the world’s steepest

streets!). The stronghold is

the ultimate siege-withstand-

er, too: Welsh anthem 'Men

of Harlech' was based on

Britain’s longest-ever siege

between 1461 and 1468.

Caernarfon's marvel Trains

trundle north to Porthmadog,

then switch to mountain

steam train to reach Caer-

narfon. Wales’ best-known

fortress, Caernarfon Castle

(pictured), is among the plan-

et’s greatest buildings of the

Middle Ages. Invading English

king Edward I began the ex-

pensive and time-consuming

work in 1283; it was complet-

ed long after his death around

1330. Its immense curtain

walls, bolstered by seven

bulky polygonal bastions from

which a further nine towers

sprout, would have intimidat-

ed the most intrepid invader.

It was designed to convey a

How to

Getting here Begin at Harlech, with a railway station

on the Shrewsbury–Pwlheli Cambrian Coast Line.

When to go Avoid summer weekends and school

holidays.

Getting around Trains run Harlech–Criccieth–

Caernarfon. Visit Dolbadarn by bus from

Caernarfon, and Beaumaris by bus from Bangor.

Bangor and Conwy have train stations on the

Holyhead–Chester line.

Cadw Cadw membership (cadw.gov.wales) allows

unlimited visits to 130+ sites.

The Northwest

FORTIFIED

CASTLES | HISTORY | MARKET TOWNS

43

217

S-F/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

SNOWDONIA,

ANGLESEY

&

THE

NORTH EXPERIENCES

Above Caernarfon Castle

simple message to those pes-

ky Welsh Princes – keep out!

Cross pedestrian-only Pont

yr Aber bridge for the most

complete castle views.

Beguiling Beaumaris Bus or

drive north to Bangor and over

to Anglesey’s Beaumaris Cas-

tle. Begun around 1295, this

was to have been Edward I’s

crowning glory, a moated

12-towered curtain wall

wrapping a square, 10-towered

inner fortification. It was never

finished but impresses never-

theless. The last of Edward's

four northwestern Welsh

wonders is Conwy Castle.

Check it out as you walk the

town walls.

c

Visiting Welsh-

Built Fortresses

You can easily encompass

these two beauties into

this trip:

Criccieth Castle Take the

train from Porthmadog

out to this captivating Llŷn

Peninsula castle, a clifftop

affair built by one Welsh

prince, Llywelyn the Great,

and destroyed by another,

Owain Glyndŵr.

Dolbadarn Castle In

Llanberis, 8 miles southeast

of Caernarfon, this poignant

tower located between

mountain lakes Llyn Beris

and Llyn Padarn was the fine

work of Llywelyn the Great.

It was begun in the 1220s

to symbolise his authority

over the area and famously

captivated the imagination of

legendary landscapist Turner.

LEONID

ANDRONOV/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

SNOWDONIA,

ANGLESEY

&

THE

NORTH EXPERIENCES

How to

Getting here Conwy's

railway station sits within

the walls. Trains reach here

from Chester in England

and Holyhead on Anglesey

every one to two hours.

When to go The walls

are open year-round. Wet

weather makes the stony

surface slippery and

diminishes the views.

How to wall-walk Start

exploring the walls from

the tower immediately

west of Conwy Castle

(access it from Rose Hill

St car park), climbing the

stairs to circuit the walls

clockwise.

Walk Conwy's Medieval

TOWN WALLS

HISTORY | TOWN | CASTLES

44

Conwy Castle would be sufficient medieval magic for most

places, but sallying forth from the fortress to wrap Conwy's old town

is nigh-on a mile of unbroken, 9m-high stone defences studded

by an imposing 21 towers. Admire the audacious architecture and

far-reaching views while walking atop these fantastic town walls.

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Conwy

Train

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Mill

Gate

Smallest

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Britain

Upper

Gate

Postern

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Conwy

Castle

Postern Gate

Watchtower

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All Along the Watchtowers

Dominate-tricks Thrillingly, you're not just circling Conwy's

walls around the base: you're largely patrolling them from

atop like town defenders of yore. Remarkably, these defences

survived an Owain Glyndŵr attack in 1401, 20th-century

town planning and over seven centuries of Welsh weather

to continue, sustained and at full height, circling the town.

Nevertheless, you'll walk them in three separate sections,

two of which are up top. Consider, while reconnoitring the

first section to Mill Gate, that King Edward I commenced

construction here in 1283, months after his men murdered

Welsh leader Llywelyn ap Gruffydd. He achieved something

with these walls beyond their sturdy engineering alone. His

builders first had to dismantle Aberconwy Abbey, which

stood here beforehand; the purpose of building over this

much-valued native Welsh site was subjugation by symbol-

ism as well as by structure.

Wall wonders Exit at Mill Gate, duck under the railway and

turn right to join the second section, the longest and loveliest.

This rises via bulky Upper Gate, reaching its climax at the

watchtower with incomparable views that tumble back to the

town, castle and Conwy Estuary, and out to Snowdonia. You

then swing northeast along the wall-top to the waterfront. One

last walkable wall-top spur protrudes over the beach before

the comedown: you'll pass out under the defences, re-entering

through Postern Gate to walk the quayside-facing third

section along its base back to the castle.

Far left top Conwy Castle Far left

bottom Smallest House in Britain

219

X

Wall Sights:

Big & Small

Conwy Castle (cadw.

gov.wales) The only gap

in Conwy’s walls is where

they make way for the

fortress they were built to

bolster. This is the obvious

start or finish point of a

wall walk. The castle was

begun in 1283 as part of

King Edward I’s Iron Ring

of Welsh defences. It's

UNESCO listed, along with

the walls and castles at

Harlech, Caernarfon and

Beaumaris.

Smallest House in

Britain (thesmallesthouse.

co.uk, Easter-Oct) The

waterfront leg of your wall

walk passes the castle’s

antithesis: this teensy red

house is just 3m high and

under 2m wide!

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BBA

PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK

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S-F/SHUTTERSTOCK

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How to

Getting here Llandudno

is on a branch of the North

Wales Coast Line between

Crewe and Chester in

England and Holyhead

on Anglesey. Hourly

trains serving all three

(and London St Pancras)

often require a change at

Llandudno Junction.

When to go April–

September (amenities

often shut at other times).

Not old-fashioned

enough? Attend late

April/early May's Victorian

Extravaganza (victorian-

extravaganza.com)

for stripy deckchairs,

costumed bands, circus

shenanigans and much

more.

Seaside Fun in

LLANDUDNO

TOWN | BEACH | CULTURE

45

Wales’ largest seaside resort, llandudno has been founded on

seaside fun since the 1850s. So holiday like the Victorians, making

the most of the town's wonderfully preserved 19th-century pleasure-

providing infrastructure, from pier to Punch and Judy, and teahouse

to tramway, not to mention its real Alice in Wonderland locations and

that hulking wild headland roamed by Kashmiri goats…

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Llandudno

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Happy

Valley

Imperial

Hotel

Llandudno

Pier

North Shore

Beach

Cottage

Loaf

Wildwood

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Resort razzamatazz When would-be developers planned to

make Llandudno a resort in the mid-19th century, they aimed

to rival the era’s great Mediterranean resorts (it would, indeed,

attract the best: not least Napoleon III and Churchill). Appre-

ciate the scale of this ambition by strolling to the seafront

pleasure pier, Wales’ longest, elegantly extending 700m out

to sea. From the pier gate, where you can see Britain’s oldest

Punch and Judy show (April to September), turn right to

take a turn in the picturesque, steeply sloping Happy Valley

landscaped gardens, created from a former quarry in the

1880s. Back down on the blustery seafront, the finest block

of the broad promenade is just beyond shingly North Shore

Beach between Clonmel and Vaughan Sts, where the facades

of wedding-cake-like hotels like the Imperial still impress.

Headland highlight No retro seaside excursion here is com-

plete without climbing Great Orme headland. Do so the glam

way on Great Orme Tramway (greatormetramway.co.uk, April

to October) via Britain’s only cable-hauled street tramway,

still rolling with its original 1902 tramcars. The bulbous,

207m-high promontory is a glorious, grassy country park and

nature reserve. Bring a picnic, explore the Bronze Age Mine

(greatormemines.info) and wander hillside pathways grazed

by Kashmiri goats, descendants of those Queen Victoria gave

local landowner and resort developer Lord Mostyn. Exception-

al views, meanwhile, unfold across North Wales. The 2-mile

sandy expanse of West Shore Beach below tempts you back

down again.

Far left top Llandudno Pier Far left

bottom North Shore Beach

221

H

Llandudno

Eats

Dylan's Restaurant on

the waterfront serves del-

ish seafood with a coastal

view that's hard to beat.

Have a sweet tooth? Pop

into Habit tea rooms on

Mostyn St for cake, and lo-

cal favourite Forte's for ice

cream. The Cottage Loaf

is your go-to for a proper

pub tea, and Wildwood is

where it's at for wood-fired

pizzas with flair.

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CONNETT/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

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ĩ

Crafting

the Craft

TAP INTO WELSH

CRAFT BEER AND

ITS DISTINGUISHED

HERITAGE

It gave Celtic-era

Britain a beer about

which bards wrote

verses, the UK one

of its first purpose-

built lager breweries,

and Europe its first

canned craft beer.

Today, Wales' beer

scene is craftier

than ever. It's time

to quaff some of the

fermented fun.

Left Wrexham Lager Brewery

Middle Tiny Rebel beer cans

Right Rhymney Brewery beer bottles

Beautiful Bragwd

Britain's Celtic Britons, the greatest number of which were

living in Wales by the Middle Ages, were highly esteemed

brewers: they made an especially well-received beer

called bragwd, or braggot, likely strong, auburn-red in

colour and laced with honey, herbs and spices. This brew

was enshrined as being worth twice what cwrw (plain old

beer) was in the Laws of Hywel Dda, the first codification

of Welsh law. According to medieval poets like Guto'r Glyn,

bragwd was a mark of good hospitality and warranted

having entire verses dedicated to it.

Boom & Temperance

When brewing switched from cottage industry to big

business, Wales was well-positioned to capitalise, with its

abundant water supplies attracting breweries. This was the

case in Wrexham, which by the 1860s had 19 functioning

breweries. Wales' 19th- and early-20th-century brewing

trade was a tale of innovation and encumbrance. In 1882

Wrexham became home to one of Britain's first lager

breweries, Wrexham Lager, while Felinfoel Brewery, Wales'

oldest still-operating craft brewery, was founded in 1878

and would produce Europe's first canned beers in 1935.

But this boom was counterbalanced by Wales becoming a

hotbed of the temperance movement. The non-conformist

churches that had become popular in Wales preached

abstinence to congregations; powerful advocates of tem-

perance like Lady Llanover in Monmouthshire closed down

pubs within their jurisdiction altogether. Nor was Welsh

beer defined by bragwd anymore: an 1854 recipe book

describes Welsh ale as a brew of pale malt and hops.

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THE

PHOTOLIBRARY

WALES/

ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

MATTHEW

HORWOOD/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

Postwar Slump, Microbrewery Surge

Post-WWII was characterised by mergers that saw a few big

breweries controlling the market and mass-produced keg

beer becoming popular. In Wales, it was closure of just such a

big brewery, ironically, that spearheaded the beginning of the

country's microbrewery scene: in 1985, a redundant brewer

from Wrexham's recently

defunct Border Breweries

started Plassey Brewery

(now Magic Dragon Brew-

ing). Tastes in Wales turned

in favour of craft brews,

especially after 2002 when

then-Chancellor Gordon

Brown started charging

smaller breweries less tax

than industry behemoths.

Cool & Crafty New Century

Important early stalwarts of Wales' now burgeoning

craft-brewery scene were Porthmadog's Purple Moose,

Aberdare's Grey Trees and Pontypool's Rhymney, each

performing exceptionally at the prestigious Champion Beer of

Britain awards. However, it was only in 2015 when Tiny Rebel

scooped Wales' first gold in the Supreme Champion category

that respect for what Welsh craft brewers were doing became

widespread. The steady decline in pubs in Wales of recent

years has only furthered craft beer's cause. Today there are

more craft breweries per capita here than in England, Scotland

or Ireland.

According to medieval

poets like Guto'r Glyn,

bragwd was a mark

of good hospitality

and warranted having

entire verses dedicated

to it.

223

ĸ

Where to Taste

Welsh Beer Heritage

Magic Dragon Brewing

(magicdragonbrewing.com)

Wales' first modern micro-

brewery, founded in 1985

near Wrexham. Also operates

brilliant Magic Dragon Brew-

ery Tap in town.

Wrexham Lager (wrexham

lager.co.uk) One of the first

lagers produced in Britain,

back in 1882. Revived in

state-of-the-art premises in

Wrexham in 2011.

Kingstone Brewery (king

stonebrewery.co.uk) Near

Tintern Abbey, where monks

once concocted some of

Wales' best bragwd. Rigorous

scholarship of Welsh beer

history. Its Tudor Ale is based

on the earliest-known recipe

for hop-flavoured beer (1503).

Tiny Rebel (tinyrebel.co.uk)

Newport-originating brewers

whose fruity Cwtch was

Wales' first Champion Beer of

Britain winner.

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Boating Llangollen

CANAL

BOAT TRIP | NATURE | MARKET TOWNS

From sleepy Shropshire farmland to the castle-crowned

Berwyn Mountains foothills, this ultimate passage from England

to Wales has you manoeuvring a narrowboat past quaint market

towns, tantalising countryside and riverside pubs over the pièce

de résistance, the world's highest canal aqueduct at Pontcysyllte.

46

Trip Notes

Getting here In England, Wrenbury railway station is on the Welsh Marches

line, with trains serving Crewe and Shrewsbury every two hours. It's then a

short walk to Wrenbury Mill Marina (wrenburymill.com), narrowboat hire point

and start point.

When to go Saturdays are the days to hire narrowboats. Decent weather that

dodges summer crowds comes in April to May and September to October.

Duration It's a seven-day chug from Wrenbury to Llangollen and back (seven

days also conforms with narrowboat hire schedules).

ADRIAN

BAKER/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

224

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Operating

a Lock

• Locks enable boats

to ascend/descend

between water levels

of differing heights.

• Locks have two

sets of gates, within

which is the water

chamber where

vessels sit while

sluices raise/lower

water levels to those

on the further side.

• Enter locks only

when chamber water

levels are the same

as the level your boat

is currently at.

SNOWDONIA,

ANGLESEY

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NORTH EXPERIENCES

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FROM TOP: THOMAS MARCHHART/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PHILIP BIRD LRPS CPAGB/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The grand test of your

narrowboating skills comes at

Grindley Brook, where you'll

navigate your vessel through six

successive locks, including three

in a staircase. Prepare to wield

that windlass.

01

Charming, cultured

Llangollen, crouched

below the isolated Berwyn

Mountains, is your

adventure's fitting climax

before turning back

towards Wrenbury. Climb

hilltop Castell Dinas Bran

to drink in the views.

05

Among Britain’s finest engineer-

ing feats, the UK’s longest aqueduct

and the world’s highest, UNESCO-

listed Pontcysyllte Aqueduct is

where you narrowboat across an

1805-built, 18-arch marvel, with the

Dee Valley vertiginously far below.

04

An impressive aqueduct,

one of the UK canal network's

longest tunnels and then Chirk

Castle, a 13th-century fortress

and grounds, make border

town Chirk an essential stop.

03

The preserved canal

workings at Ellesmere are

historically intriguing, but the

magical things are the meres

(shallow, natural lakes) and

one of Britain's biggest

raised bogs: Fenn's, Whixall

and Bettisfield Mosses.

02

JON

SPARKS/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

4

SEASON

BACKPACKING/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

How to

Getting here The range

is roughly bounded by

Llangollen, Corwen,

Bala and Oswestry.

Llangollen, 30 minutes'

drive from Wrexham, is

most convenient.

When to go Clear,

rain-free days are

recommended.

Getting around The T3

Wrexham–Barmouth

bus traverses the north

of the range between

Llangollen, Corwen and

Bala. For other trailheads,

either drive or explore

entirely by foot or bike.

Tips Moorland paths

can be faint: bring a

navigation device.

Berwyn Mountains

MAGIC

HIKING | BIKING | NATURE

47

Moody, mostly a blank on maps and utterly mesmeric, the Berwyn

Mountains are best defined by what they lack: well-traipsed trails, significant

civilisation, guidebook coverage. Yet they warrant your undivided attention, with

some of Wales' finest megalithic monuments, historic hostelries and outstanding

hiking, biking and wildlife-watching.

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E N G L A N D

Berwyn

Mountains

Snowdonia

(Eryri)

National Park

Cadair

Bronwen

Cadair

Berwyn

Llandrillo

Corwen Carrog

Cerrigydrudion

Glyndyfrdwy

Cefn

Llangollen

Froncysyllte

Chirk

Bala

Oswestry

Llanarmon

Dyffryn

Ceiriog

Moel

Fferna

Moel Tŷ

Uchaf

Pistyll

Rhaeadr

Owain

Glyndŵr’s

Mount

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Trails, rails, rebellion Two towns at either end of the range's

northern edge, Llangollen and Corwen, link up to provide two

great introductory regional rambles. Lonely 15-mile North

Berwyn Way connects the two; stop atop purple-brown

Moel Fferna for striking, 360-degree moorland panoramas.

Loop back with the gentler Dee Valley Way (15 miles), where

highlights include spectacular hill fort Caer Drewyn and

tree-stippled Owain Glyndŵr's Mount, where Wales' last

prince rallied troops to begin the country's final rebellion

against English rule in 1400. Heritage Llangollen Railway

(llangollen-railway.co.uk) is another entertaining means of

exploring between Llangollen and Corwen.

Stones and summits One wild 10-mile walk from Llandrillo

launches you up into the best of the Berwyn Mountains. This

first visits Wales' best-preserved stone circle, Moel Tŷ Uchaf,

cradled in open grassland below high moor, then clambers onto

the ridgetop. From here you can detour north to cairn-crowned

Cadair Bronwen before continuing south to regional high

point Cadair Berwyn (830m), with tarn Llyn Lluncaws splayed

theatrically below. Here you see how cadair (chair) became a

name for a peak: the ridge falls away, first steeply and then in

gentle curves, like a chair-back. From Cadair Berwyn it's 2.5

miles south through more pristine moorland to enchanting Pi-

styll Rhaeadr waterfall in Mid-Wales; otherwise descend west

to return to Llandrillo. Llandrillo also heads up a much-lauded

mountain-biking loop, 32-mile Wayfarers Trail, in homage to

seminal early-20th-century biker Walter MacGregor Robinson.

Far left top Wayfarers Trail

Far left bottom Moel Tŷ Uchaf

227

ĩ Post-Walk Pubs

The mountains are fringed

by some of Britain's best

rural pubs:

Berwyn Arms This

17th-century white-

washed treasure in

Glyndyfrdwy boasts

envy-inducing views over

the Dee Valley and Berwyn

uplands while you feast

on the likes of braised ox

cheek and Pembrokeshire

steak. There are four

smart bedrooms besides.

Join the North Berwyn

Way or Dee Valley Way

from paths outside.

Corn Mill Over in

lovely Llangollen, this

renovated 18th-century

mill-turned-gastropub

features a daily changing

menu and an expansive

terrace jutting over the

River Dee. Relax at this

perfect sun-trap while

supping Welsh ales and

watching white-water

rafters bounce over the

frothing Town Falls.

SNOWDONIA,

ANGLESEY

&

THE

NORTH EXPERIENCES

01 4 SEASON BACKPACKING/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 02 DAN SANTILLO (WALES)/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 03 PHIL HARLAND/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 04 TONY BAGGETT/

SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 05 GAIL JOHNSON/SHUTTERSTOCK © 06 DOUGLAS LANDER/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 07 DV TRAVEL/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 08 PAULA HAMMOND/

ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 09 HANNEKE LUIJTING/GETTY IMAGES ©

01 Stone circles

Don't think Stonehenge

here: Wales' stone

circles are comprised of

smaller stones. The like-

liest explanation is that

they were megalithic

ceremonial centres.

02 Stone rows

A line of stones,

probably constructed

for processional reasons

or as navigation aids,

such as Bancbryn in

Carmarthenshire.

03 Hill forts

Hill-topping Bronze Age

or Iron Age earthwork

defensive settlements;

such defences often

remained complete

enough to be used until

medieval times.

04 Dolmens

Dolmens (burial

chambers) are common

across Wales and pro-

lific on Anglesey. Typ-

ically, stone uprights

support a capstone;

originally, most were

buried under earth.

PREHISTORIC WALES

in Pictures

01

02

04

03

05 Standing stones

Often known in Wales

by the Celtic name,

menhirs, these stone

uprights, some several

metres tall, are generally

found in ones or twos

across Wales.

06 Hut circles

Sometimes just faint

impressions in moor-

land; sometimes, as on

Anglesey's Holyhead

Mountain, structures

still several stones

high. These are often

remnants of Bronze

Age villages.

07 Ogham stones

These stones are

reminders of the

connections between

Wales and Ireland

during the ancient early

Christian period. They're

inscribed with ogham,

a form of early Irish

language.

08 Holy wells

The holy well (ffynnon)

is perhaps Wales' most

common ancient monu-

ment, often associated

with a particular

miracle and featuring

on Wales' medieval

pilgrimage routes.

09 Cairn circles

A rare combination of

cairn and stone circle,

as at Talsarnau's Bryn

Cader Faner: a cairn

with a stone circle

around its perimeter.

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230

MOUNTAINS | HIKING | NATURE

Snowdonia (Eryri) National

Park is the pantheon of ‘highest in

Wales’ records. Wildly popular Yr

Wyddfa (1085m; Snowdon) hogs

headlines, but here we champion the

park's less-known features: the saw-

edged summits, thick forests and

glimmering llyns that lure crowd-

dodging connoisseurs of hiking,

biking and cold-water swimming.

Beyond

SNOWDON

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Beddgelert

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Trawsfynydd

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Carnedd

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Tryfan

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Penmachno

Pen-y-Pass

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Llanberis

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TREADWAY/GETTY

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231

follow devastatingly gorgeous moorland lanes

10 miles into Cwm Pennant. Alternatively, reach

Cwm Pennant courtesy of a delightful hike over

the ridge via Moel Hebog (782m) from Beddge-

lert railway station, optionally passing through

Adamant About Ascending Snowdon

Over 600,000 people hike up Yr Wyddfa every

year, making it one of the UK's busiest moun-

tains. While it is packed during the summer holi-

days, you can attempt less-trodden routes in the

off-season, so long as you're prepared for wild

Welsh weather. Compared to the tourist-heavy

trail from Llanberis, Rhyd-Ddu is a more

peaceful path to the summit (1085m), despite

commencing from a railway station between

Caernarfon and Porthmadog. Revealing a swath

of mountain, this can be crafted into a loop when

linked with the even-less-walked South Ridge

Path, albeit entailing a smidgeon of scrambling.

Snowdonia's Prettiest Valley

Touristy peak traversed, drive or take the train

south to Pont Croesor, near Porthmadog, then

How to

Getting here The

best bases for this

are Caernarfon,

Beddgelert, Porthma-

dog, Blaenau Ffestiniog

and Capel Curig.

When to go Skip July,

August and weekends

to avoid crowds. Clear

weather brings more

cheer, foul weather

brings more challenges

and capricious weather

means both are

possible year-round.

Getting around

Vital connections are

the Sherpa buses

(snowdonia.gov.wales/

visit/plan-your-visit/

snowdon-sherpa) and

Ffestiniog & Welsh

Highland Railway

(festrail.co.uk).

SNOWDONIA,

ANGLESEY

&

THE

NORTH EXPERIENCES

Left Beddgelert Forest (p232)

Above left Cwm Pennant

232

bewitching Beddgelert Forest on the way.

When the path from the forest comes between

Moel Hebog and neighbouring summit Moel

yr Ogof, consider exploring the latter's cave,

where Owain Glyndŵr supposedly once hid from

English forces post-revolt. Unspoilt Cwm Pen-

nant, often dubbed Snowdonia's prettiest valley,

is a must for many reasons, most notably its wild

swimming in an old reservoir amid ruined slate

workings near the valley head. Circle back via

Beddgelert Forest to Meillionen railway station:

10 miles of astounding hiking. Lower down Cwm

Pennant, a path twists up to one of the area's

most interesting summits, captivatingly craggy

Mynydd Graig Goch (610m).

Capel Curig's Striking Summits

From Beddgelert, it’s 12 miles northeast to the

village of Capel Curig, with fabled outdoor-lov-

ers’facilities to fuel you for scaling Moel Siabod

(872m), From whose summit it's supposedly

possible to see 13 of Wales’14 highest peaks.

U Ode to Snowdonia

I'm an international expe-

dition leader. I could work

anywhere worldwide, but for

me nowhere beats Snowdo-

nia. It has incredible variety

of terrain and heritage. Even

Llanberis, base for climbing

Snowdon, has amazing

diversity in its hikes, and

uncrowded spots too. The

83-mile Snowdonia Slate

Trail passes through here. It's

a circular hike showcasing

slate heritage and stunning

mountain landscapes

hereabouts, but is still so

peaceful, passing commu-

nity-run cafes and hidden

villages. Another amazing

hike, already possible but

being improved, is the Snow-

don Circular, a two-day trek

around the mountain base,

although still traversing high

elevation. Again, few people

walk it.

 By Ross Worthington,

co-founder, RAWAdventures

@rawadventures

ANDY

J

BILLINGTON/SHUTTERSTOCK

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ANDREW

LLOYD/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTOS

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233

Left Views from YGarn

Above top Antur Stiniog

Above Adam and Eve

ŀ Mountain Biking

Snowdonia's big mountain-

biking areas are Coed-y-

Brenin, 17 miles southeast

of Porthmadog, and Blaenau

Ffestiniog's Antur Stiniog.

For fewer people, pedal

remote, red-grade Penmach-

no Trails, 12 miles northeast

of Blaenau Ffestiniog. It offers

18.5 miles of sublime biking

in two loops through forested

mountainside.

Perhaps Snowdonia's grandest hike, though, is

accessed via a 4-mile path west from the village,

at photogenic campsite Gwern Gof Uchaf

(tryfanwales.co.uk). This crouches beneath

Snowdonia’s best scrambling and climbing spot,

Tryfan, part of the Glyderau mountain group

that host many of the region’s best rock forma-

tions. Loop around lovely Llyn Ogwen and then

Llyn Idwal, ramparted by its horseshoe ridge,

to hit Y Garn (947m), Glyder Fawr (1001m),

Glyder Fach (994m) and Tryfan (918m), pass-

ing formations like surreally spiky Castle of the

Wind. Upon reaching Tryfan, you’ll understand

why this is classed among Wales’most thrilling

mountains. This is no mere high point: its top

is strewn with rather singular and precariously

poised boulders. It's tradition among those

who make it here to stand on the tips of each,

vaulting between dual monoliths Adam and Eve

and venturing to the end of the Canon Stone as

vertiginous drops yawn below. If you still crave

more high-elevation high-jinks, ascend above

Llyn Ogwen’s eastern end to North Wales’finest

ridge hike and second-highest summit, Carnedd

Llewelyn (1064m).

SNOWDONIA,

ANGLESEY

&

THE

NORTH EXPERIENCES

KATH

WATSON/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

GAIL

JOHNSON/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

The Sparkle

of Slate

NORTHWEST WALES'

SLATE HERITAGE

GLITTERS ONCE MORE

When Northwest

Wales claims to

have once roofed

the world, it's not

referring to its

rugged mountains.

At its acme, this

region accounted

for a third of global

building slate. Trade

in the layered rock

left an indelible

legacy, which today

translates into

diverse, dramatic

visitor experiences.

Left Ruined buildings, Dinorwig

Quarry Middle Ffestiniog & Welsh

Highland Railway Right National

Slate Museum

Top-Grade Material

Roofers will tell you there's nothing like Welsh slate − not

when you account for the material's heritage, durability

and its spectacular after-rain gleam. Two millennia after its

first recorded use and 480 million years after the formation

of its finest variety in the Ordovician period, Welsh slate's

legacy still runs deep in its Northwest Wales heartland.

This teensy region once provided the planet with one-

third of its roofing slate and building slab slate, pioneering

game-changing industrial innovation at the same time.

Now, long after the boom times slumped and it came close

to oblivion, slate is once again a marvellous, multifaceted

thing, as evidenced by the Slate Landscape of Northwest

Wales receiving UNESCO World Heritage site status

in 2021.

At the World's Summit

Slate was used to construct Segontium, Caernarfon's

Roman fort, and in King Edward I's 13th-century castle at

Conwy. But until the 18th century slate mining was done by

small groups of quarrymen paying landowners royalties to

extract and export slate modest distances within Britain.

Then landowners began running quarries themselves.

Output massively increased. Blaenau Ffestiniog's Diffwys

became the first large quarry in the 1760s, while Penrhyn

and Dinorwig near Llanberis soon became the world's

largest and second-largest slate quarries. At the industry's

zenith, Penrhyn and Dinorwig alone delivered over 40%

of British slate production. Welsh slate, easy to split but

strong, became renowned as the planet's best, but excep-

tional innovation enshrined this status. Some of the first

234

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ANGLESEY

&

THE

NORTH ESSAY

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HOWARD

PIMBOROUGH/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

gravity railways, for example, were built at Penrhyn and Blaenau

to transport slate to seaports.

Neglected, Respected

But slate quarrying's success proved unsustainable. Strikes,

often triggered by friction between quarry owners and quarry

workers, disrupted operations. Advancements in tile mass-

production rendered slate less necessary, and quarrying was

wasteful, too: of everything extracted, as little as 10% might

get utilised. The rest was

discarded on huge spoil

heaps, like those towering

around Blaenau.

The later 20th century saw

most erstwhile quarrying

communities in severe

decline. As time made slate's

legacy more unfamiliar,

though, it made it more

interesting. Attractions like

Ffestiniog & Welsh Highland

Railway, formerly ferrying Blaenau slate and now Snowdonia's

tourists, showed slate heritage still had appeal. Today, Blae-

nau's famously shunned slate-worked mountains have become

Antur Stiniog's hair-raising, hugely popular downhill MTB park,

while overhead Europe's first four-person zip line whooshes

thrill-seekers down into caverns converted into a vast subter-

ranean adventure playground. The 83-mile Snowdonia Slate

Trail, meanwhile, loops through the region's most compelling

slate heritage, with the highlight being Llanberis' National Slate

Museum in former Dinorwig quarry buildings.

Two millennia after

its first recorded use

and 480 million years

after the formation

of its finest variety in

the Ordovician period,

Welsh slate's legacy still

runs deep.

235

6

From Mining to

Mountain-Biking

I remember the bosses

showing me the bottom pillars

holding up Blaenau's Oakeley

Mine. I saw the cracks and

knew we couldn't go on like

this. Then it was like, what's

next?! I started setting up

Antur Stiniog's downhill centre

and trails in 2012. It was about

making what we had attractive

to others: now we have a

great reputation as one of the

UK's best riding destinations.

Young people coming here

today don't care about the

past. They want to get up that

mountain: get their kicks. The

idea is to make them proud of

the adventure activities here,

like older generations were

proud of the slate industry.

 By Adrian Bradley,

Bike Development Officer,

Antur Stiniog bike park,

Blaenau Ffestiniog

@anturstiniog.cyf

SNOWDONIA,

ANGLESEY

&

THE

NORTH ESSAY

q Holy & Historic Sights

St Winefride's Holy Well and Chapel

Revered since at least 1115, Holywell's Holy Well

is probably Britain's oldest continually visited

pilgrimage site, with an adjacent 15th-century

hillside chapel.

Valle Crucis Abbey

Founded in 1201,Valle Crucis is one of Wales'

best-preserved abbeys. Its main tracery window

and many walls still stand majestically in a wood-

ed Llantysillo valley.

Plas Newydd

The 'Ladies of Llangollen', lovers who scandalised

18th-century society by publicly co-habiting, lived

in this larger-than-life Llangollen residence. It's

a flamboyantly decorated abode, with exquisite

interior carving and landscaped grounds.

Gwrych Castle

Rambling 19th-century ruin built into a woodsy

sea-facing hill within a lovely pathway-laced

estate near Abergele. One of the first, and most

audacious, attempts to recreate a medieval

castle in later centuries. Pre-book.

X Beautiful Mountains & Beaches

Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon)

Wales' highest peak (1085m) has six main trails

up, plus a mountain railway. Britain’s loftiest cafe

aside, the summit’s views, tumbling to the Irish

Sea, are incredible.

Cadair Idris

Often excluded from‘best Snowdonia summits’

lists because of its location far south in the

national park, this 893m peak above Dolgellau is

a stunner, as are the hikes up.

Bwlch y Groes

Daredevil drivers should try this singletrack

hair-raiser from Dinas Mawwdwy to Llanuwchllyn

on Wales’second-highest public road.

Aberdyfi Beach

This 3-mile stretch of sand wrapping around the

Dyfi estuary is backed by one of North Wales’

best ice cream parlours, on Aberdyfi’s fetching

harbourfront high street.

Isle of Anglesey Coast Path

Wide dune-backed beaches like Aberffraw, wave-

smacked South Stack’s vertiginous cliffs, quiet

coves near Cemaes…find your favourite stretch

of Anglesey’s 140-mile shoreline on this week-

long round-island ramble.

Š Strollable Towns & Villages

Dolgellau

A labyrinth of streets fronted by dolerite-grey

Victorian houses, this handsome Snowdonia

town should be your base for hikes, ranging from

19th-century beauty-spot strolls to Cadair Idris

ascents.

Portmeirion

One of Wales' oddest − yet most impressive −

attractions is Sir Clough William-Ellis' fanciful

Italianate tourist village. It was the famous

backdrop to cult 1960s TV show The Prisoner

and overlooks the Dwyryd Estuary's immense

sandy beach.

Denbigh

With its 13th-century town walls and castle plus

the wonderful Cae Dai 1950s Museum, Denbigh

is a charming market town in Northeast Wales.

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

236

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6 Adrenaline Rushes

Zip World Penrhyn Quarry

Get your kicks on the world's fastest zip line,

Velocity 2. It's Europe's longest zip too: 1 mile

whooshing at around 100mph through what was

once the world's largest slate quarry.

National White Water Centre

Water babies, go wild! At Wales' most thrilling

white-water centre you can raft the churning

River Tryweryn, go canyoning or jaunt south to

paddle Wales' biggest natural lake, Llyn Tegid.

H Dining, Drinking & Salt

Sosban & the Old Butchers

£££

North Wales' only Michelin star rests squarely

with this dining destination extraordinaire set

within a former butcher's shop in Menai Bridge

on Anglesey.

Dylan's Restaurant

£££

Eyeball the marvellous Menai Strait while

devouring Anglesey scallops or monkfish stew

at this dashingly designed seafood restaurant on

Menai Bridge's waterfront. Other outlets beckon

in Llandudno and Criccieth.

Tŷ Coch Inn

£

One of the world's best 'beach bars', this 1823-

built Llŷn Peninsula tavern stands beside the

sands of Porthdinllean Beach within a foot-

access-only cute-as-a-button fishing hamlet.

Pen-y-Gwryd

£

Snowdonia's most characterful historic tavern,

where Sir Edmund Hillary stayed while training

for climbing Everest, out on its lonesome below

the stony slopes of the Glyderau range.

Halen Môn

They call this straight-from-the-Menai-Strait An-

glesey sea salt‘the world’s finest seasoning’. The

visitor centre has a splendid outdoor cafe and

wild seaweed baths with mountainous views.

Aber Falls Distillery

Fabled for several years for its gin, this distillery-

cum-visitor centre near Llanfairfechan also pro-

duces some of Wales’only single malt whiskey

(and offers tours and tastings).

B Sumptuous Stays

Quay Hotel and Spa

Swish spa hotel with commanding views of the

dreamy Deganwy Marina. Unwind in the re-

vamped wellness thermal area and sip cocktails

in the ambient Cove Bar.

Bodysgallen Hall

Resplendent 17th-century hotel and spa near

Llandudno, commanding far-stretching views

across the North Wales coast and mountains.

Palé Hall

Brushing Snowdonia (south) and the Berwyn

Mountains (east), 18-bedroom Pale Hall is a

historic country home lovingly transformed into

a luxury destination hotel with fine dining and a

Jacobean-Victorian-style interior.

Gladstone’s Library

Sleep amid former British PM William Glad-

stone’s stunning book collection in this grand

150,000-volume residential library, which has

several reading rooms in which to enjoy the texts,

and a bookish bistro too.

Portmeirion

MALGOSIA

JANICKA/SHUTTERSTOCK

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&

THE

NORTH REVIEWS

237

238

MALGOSIA

JANICKA/SHUTTERSTOCK

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Right Snowdon Summit Visitor Centre (p231), designed by architect Ray Hole

252

245

240

WALES NEED

TO

KNOW

LANGUAGE

ACCOMMODATION

RESPONSIBLE

TRAVEL

MONEY

SAFE TRAVEL

GETTING

AROUND

ARRIVING

Practicalities

240

CERI

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ON YOUR WAY HOME...

The airport can get congested. If you’re arriving by car, taxi or bus, allow plenty of

time to get there. Short-haul passengers should arrive at least two hours before

departure time to allow for check-in, luggage drop-off and airport security. Long-haul

passengers and those with an onward connection should arrive at least four hours

before departure time.

MOBILE PHONES There aren’t any

dedicated mobile phone charging

stations available. Keep an eye out for

sockets or ask staff for help.

ATMS These are located in the Arrivals

Hall, as well as elsewhere in the airport.

They dispense GBP.

WI-FI Free wireless internet access

is available throughout the terminal.

Coverage is good throughout.

CURRENCY

EXCHANGE

There are

no currency

exchange facilities

at the airport,

other than ATM

machines for cash

withdrawal. Wait

until you reach a

major town or city,

where you’ll most

likely find multiple

options available

(see p245 for

further details).

SIM CARDS

For UK SIM cards

at the airport,

you’ll need to head

to WH Smith in the

departure lounge.

Alternatively, wait

until you reach

a town or city.

SIM cards are

readily available

at newsagents or

supermarkets;

ask at the

tobacco kiosk.

AT THE AIRPORT

Cardiff Airport serves as Wales' main international hub, welcoming over a million passengers annually,

offering more than 28 direct routes and many others via connecting flights at other European air hubs. It

sits 12 miles from Cardiff city centre, with connections to and from the airport to central Cardiff. There is

one terminal, which has a small number of shops, cafes, a bar, free-to-use ATMs and tourist information.

WALES ARRIVING

EASY STEPS FROM THE AIRPORT TO THE CITY CENTRE

241

private transfer

£40

30min

taxi

£30

30min

OTHER POINTS OF ENTRY

Cardiff Central Station This is the main train station in Cardiff and Wales' busiest. There are regular trains

to and from London, Bristol, Manchester, Birmingham and other major cities in England and connections to

Wales' regional train networks. Plan journeys and book your train tickets in advance online (tfw.wales).

Ferry Terminals Inbound ferries from the Republic of Ireland arrive at Fishguard or Pembroke (from Rosslare)

and Holyhead (from Dublin). There are good transport links near the terminals.

Cruise Ship Ports Six cruise-ship ports are dotted around Wales' coastline: Newport, Cardiff and Swansea

(Bristol Channel), Fishguard and Milford Haven (West Wales) and Holyhead (Anglesey). Regular shuttles to

nearby destinations are available on arrival.

Bristol Airport Use the Airport Flyer bus to reach Bristol Temple Meads train station, then catch a direct train

to Cardiff Central. Services run frequently; plan journeys via Trainline or GWR.

Manchester Airport Close to North Wales, despite being in England. Take a train from the airport to Chester,

then change to reach Bangor, Llandudno, Rhyl and Holyhead.

PLUSBUS TRAVEL PASS If you plan

to combine train and bus travel on the

same day within the same area (eg

Cardiff), check if you’re eligible for a

PlusBus pass (from £2.50). It grants one

train journey and unlimited bus journeys

(on participating buses) in the zone. Ask

for PlusBus when buying a train ticket at

the station.

CAR HIRE

There are three

car-hire compa-

nies at Cardiff

Airport (Europcar,

Enterprise and

AVIS). See cardiff-

airport.com for

details on their

opening times.

HOW MUCH

FOR A…

bus + train

£6

45min

INTEGRATED RAILAND SHUTTLE

TICKET Getting to Cardiff Airport is now

simpler with a new integrated ticket from

Transport for Wales and Adventure Travel,

allowing passengers to take a train to

Rhoose and then connect directly to the

airport via the 905 bus on a single ticket.

TRAINS Trains run from Rhoose Cardiff

International Airport railway station every

hour from Monday to Saturday and every

two hours on Sunday. Tickets start from

around £5.40 and are cheapest if you

book in advance.

PRIVATE TRANSFER Book one to or

from Cardiff Airport with FlightLink

Wales (flightlinkwales.com), or hire a

taxi through Dragon Taxis (call 02920

333333) or Uber. Taxis take 30 minutes

and cost upwards of £30.

GETTING TO THE CITY CENTRE

WALES ARRIVING

PLAN YOUR

JOURNEY

Traveline Cymru

can help you plan

your journey. Use

the website, down-

load the Traveline

Cymru app or call

08004 640000.

242

DRIVING ESSENTIALS

diesel approx

£1.53/litre

Blood alcohol limit:

80mg/100mL (0.08%)

Always wear a seatbelt

(unless medically

exempt or reversing).

It’s illegal to hold and

use any device that can

send or receive data

while driving.

DRIVING ROUTES There are three national road routes across

Wales, designed to take visitors along some of the most inter-

esting and memorable roadways in the country. The Coastal

Way connects the sea to mountains around Cardigan Bay. The

Cambrian Way runs down the central spine of Wales between

Llandudno and Cardiff. The North Wales Way follows the old

trading route at the top of the country into Anglesey. Driving

along them is highly recommended.

Car speed limit in built-

up areas and non-

motorway roads with

street lights: 20mph

Drive on the left. The

steering wheel is on

the right.

CAR HIRE

Car hire from

major companies

is available in

some major towns

and cities in South

Wales. Elsewhere,

search online in

advance; options

are likely to be few

and expensive.

Older, smaller

cars are cheapest.

Check mileage

limitations and

petrol policy.

AUTOMOBILE

ASSOCIATION

The AA (theaa.

com) is a useful

resource for

maps, insurance,

route planners,

information on

driving laws and

accommodation

listings. It also

offers breakdown

cover in advance

of driving and

can help you if

you break down

without cover.

from £33

petrol approx

£1.85/litre

BUS Buses connect towns and villages

across the country to cities and major

destinations. Check traveline.cymru for

timetables, updates and help with route

planning. You can buy tickets on board.

Ask about all-day passes if you’re doing

multiple journeys in the area that day.

ROAD CONDITIONS Most roads are

well maintained. In rural areas, expect

single-lane, winding roads, farm vehicles

and the occasional lost sheep. Mountain

routes can be challenging but scenic.

In bad weather, drive slowly and avoid

snowy, icy or flooded areas. For updates

and advice, visit traffic.wales.

The easiest way to explore Wales is by car. Some of its most

spectacular scenery is only accessible if you have your own

set of wheels and sturdy walking boots. Car-hire options are

available from Cardiff. Public transport and bike hire is worth

considering between towns and cities to save on petrol and

reduce your carbon footprint.

WALES GETTING

AROUND

CAR RENTAL

PER DAY

TRANSPORT TIPS TO HELP YOU GET AROUND

0.08

20

243

KNOW YOUR CARBON FOOTPRINT You can travel the length and breadth of Cymru by

car, train, bus or bike, and each mode of transportation produces differing levels of emis-

sions. You can calculate the carbon dioxide per passenger of your journey in Wales using

online carbon calculators, such as calculator.carbonsavvy.uk.

CYCLING You'll find over 1200 miles

of National Cycle Network in Wales, as

well as endless off-road opportunities

and dedicated bike parks. Visit

sustrans.org.uk to find routes. Many

areas have bike-hire operators; search

online ahead of visiting.

DRIVING LICENCE You need to be 17

or older with a full licence to drive here.

If you're from outside the UK, carry your

passport or ID card when driving, as

well as your licence. Make sure your car

is insured. For more info, visit gov.uk.

TRAIN Five train companies currently operate

within Wales, the main one being Transport for

Wales. The others are Avanti West Coast (between

London Euston, West Midlands and North Wales),

CrossCountry (mainly between Cardiff Central and

Newport to Central and Northeast England) and

Great Western Railway (GWR; connecting London

to South Wales). Book tickets and plot your journey

via tfw.wales or thetrainline.com.

WALES GETTING

AROUND

ROAD DISTANCE CHART (MILES)

Swansea

44

Brecon

42

39

Tenby

95

53

74

Aberystwyth

100 75

58 70

St Davids

115 72

94 35 73

Betws-y-Coed

162 136 116 137 67 139

Bangor

181 160 134 155 86 157 21

Conwy

194 152 131 152 82 154 17 16

Holyhead

200 180 154 175 105 177 43 25 39

Cardiff

Swansea

Brecon

Tenby

Aberystwyth

St

Davids

Betws-y-Coed

Bangor

Conwy

244

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PAUL

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SNOW & ICE In snow or icy conditions, only travel when

absolutely necessary. Avoid hiking mountains in bad weather.

Even on good days, summits are often cold, windy, snowy and

icy. Check the latest weather and ground conditions before you

set off, and only attempt a route if the conditions and challenges

are within your capabilities.

COVID-19

The vast majority

of the Welsh pop-

ulation has been

vaccinated against

Covid-19, but

some government

advice remains in

place. For up-to-

date information,

visit gov.wales/

coronavirus.

Outdoor safety Adventuresmart.uk

exists to reduce the number of avoidable

accidents that happen to adventurers.

Visit the Wales section of the website

for safety advice relating to specific

outdoor activities, from wild swimming to

mountain biking.

Drinking water The tap water in

Wales is safe to drink. Water bottle

refill stations are widely available –

visit refill.org.uk/refill-wales or use

the Refill app to find one nearby.

Don’t drink untreated wild water.

FLOODING Wales, like the rest of the UK, gets quite a lot of

rain. Flooding can occur, particularly near rivers and the coast.

Check the travel advice from traffic.wales before travelling in

prolonged rain, as transport can be affected. For flood forecasts

and warnings and to set up flood alerts, visit flood-warning.

naturalresources.wales.

INSURANCE

If you’re visiting

from the EU,

Norway, Iceland,

Liechtenstein

or Switzerland,

you should

have travel or

health insurance

that covers the

duration of your

trip. Bring your

European Health

Insurance Card

(EHIC) if valid.

TEMPERATURES In spring and summer, temperatures can

top 30°C. Coastal areas are generally cooler than densely

populated areas, but they are often busy when the sun's out.

Autumn and winter on the coast can be as cold as –6°C, with

inland temperatures not far behind. Dress appropriately for

the temperature and use sun/wind lotion.

The biggest threat to travellers is how they handle Wales' varying landscapes and

changeable weather. Plan ahead by checking weather forecasts and local safety

information. Crime rates are quite low, but use caution and common sense.

WALES SAFE

TRAVEL

SAFE TRAVEL

245

TIPPING

Warmly welcomed, but not mandatory.

Cafes, bars & restaurants Your total

bill is all you need to pay. If tipping good

service, 10% of the bill is typical. Some

restaurants add an optional service

charge to your bill in lieu of a tip.

Taxis To tip, round up your fare and tell

the driver to keep the change.

Guides, hairdressers & other service

staff Tipping isn't expected but is happily

received. There's no need to tip hotel staff

or housekeeping.

NO VAT REFUNDS

Previously, the

VAT Retail Export

Scheme allowed

visitors to the UK

to reclaim VAT

paid on certain

purchases that

they took home

with them. How-

ever, this scheme

has now been

withdrawn.

ATMS

These are available

in towns and cities,

but thin out in rural

areas. Most banks

have ATMs. You’ll

also find ATMs in

some post offices,

supermarkets,

transport hubs

and convenience

stores. Some

charge for

withdrawals.

CURRENCY EXCHANGE Most high-street

banks exchange foreign currency. You can

also find Bureaux de Change kiosks in

some supermarkets and branches of the

post office and M&S.

Pound sterling (£)

coffee

£3

pint of beer

£4

lunch for 2

£25

DISCOUNTS

Admission to sights, shows and activities is often offered at

reduced rates to seniors, students, young children, families,

people with disabilities and carers. Popular attractions, such

as castles, public gardens and stately homes, often have free

entry days, so check their websites when planning your trip.

CASH & CARD Credit and debit cards

are widely accepted, though some places

don't accept American Express. More

places are moving towards payment by

card only. Contactless payment via card

or smartphone is widely available, up to

£100 per transaction. Cash is sometimes

required in independent shops, cafes,

car parks and taxis, so always carry a

small amount.

PUBLIC TOILETS

Some public

toilets require a

small fee for entry,

usually no more

than 30p. Carry

loose change just

in case.

PAYING THE BILL

When ordering

at a cafe, bar or

restaurant, you

may be expected

to pay on the spot

or at the end.

WALES MONEY

HOW MUCH

FOR A…

CURRENCY

QUICK TIPS TO HELP YOU MANAGE YOUR MONEY

246

PAUL

QUAYLE/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

GIVE BACK

Use zero waste and refill shops to buy cereals, snacks and other

sundries without adding to the plastic problem. Visit refill.org.uk/

refill-wales to find places to top up.

Visit wildlife reserves, such as those managed by RSPB (rspb.org.

uk), National Nature Reserves (naturalresources.wales) and the

Wildlife Trust (welshwildlife.org). They support protected areas and

conserve wildlife and biodiversity.

Join a nature-helping clean-up through organisations like Surfers

Against Sewage, who run litter-picking sessions on beaches, in

rivers, up mountains and beyond.

Make a donation that supports a better future. Adopt a Welsh

puffin, grey seal or red squirrel to help the Wildlife Trust continue its

crucial conservation work.

ON THE ROAD

Calculate your carbon using

an online calculator, such as

calculator.carbonsavvy.uk.

Hire electric or hybrid cars;

you can find charging locations

on zap-map.com.

Use public buses and trains

rather than private vehicles. The

Welsh government is constantly

improving the eco credentials of

its public transport.

Carpool using liftshare.com/uk.

Travel by bicycle. Many places

offer local bike hire; search online

to find a suitable one. You can hire

push bikes and e-bikes in many

cites and towns across Wales.

Plan consciously. Use websites

like greentraveller.co.uk to find

regional low-carbon travel tips.

Disinfect to prevent infectious

diseases being transferred to,

from and between animals. Wash

your hands before and after

touching animals or food.

Tips to leave a lighter footprint, support local and have a positive impact on local communities.

WALES RESPONSIBLE

TRAVEL

POSITIVE-IMPACT TRAVEL

247

JAMES

CLARKE/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL

It’s impossible to ignore the impact we have when travelling, and the

importance of making changes where we can. Lonely Planet urges all

travellers to engage with their travel carbon footprint. There are many

carbon calculators online that allow travellers to estimate the carbon

emissions generated by their journey; try resurgence.org/resources/

carbon-calculator.html. Many airlines and booking sites offer travellers

the option of offsetting the impact of greenhouse gas emissions

by contributing to climate-friendly initiatives around the world. We

continue to offset the carbon footprint of all Lonely Planet staff travel,

while recognising this is a mitigation more than a solution.

RESOURCES

keepwalestidy.cymru

naturalresources.wales

visitwales.com

wales.com

SUPPORT LOCAL

Book independently owned accommodation

through locally run businesses and small companies.

Source ingredients at permanent and pop-up

markets, where produce is usually grown locally by

individuals.

Buy gifts and souvenirs from Welsh craftspeople

and makers. You can find great options stocked in

independent gift shops, art galleries and markets.

Dine at local restaurants rather than chain outlets.

LEAVE A SMALL FOOTPRINT

Dine at vegetarian and vegan cafes and

restaurants, or choose plant-based menu

items elsewhere. Use happycow.net for

recommendations.

Bring reusable shopping bags. Shops

charge for plastic carrier bags in Wales to

deter people from buying single-use plastics.

Hold on to recyclable litter until you find

a recycling bin. It's better than putting it in

general bins, which go to landfill.

Choose a less-visited peak – unless you

really want to walk a specific mountain. It'll

help curb overtourism.

DOS & DON'TS

Do take a toilet kit with you in

the wilderness; bag your waste

and dispose of it properly.

Do carry a note with your

emergency contacts, in case

you're found in need of help.

Don’t walk close to cattle.

Don’t attempt to pet or feed

animals unless given permission.

WALES RESPONSIBLE

TRAVEL

248

WIRESTOCK

CREATORS/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

REDSNAPPER/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

CASTLES

A number of renovated castles and

gatehouses around Wales now function as

unique – and often luxurious – accommo-

dation. Expect a carefully devised blend

of historic features and modern additions,

combining comfort with character. Given

their former use, many offer fantastic

views and are in remote locations.

WILD LUXURY

As a country with boundless

rural beauty, Wales unsurpris-

ingly offers many accommo-

dation options that capitalise

on the great outdoors.

Former cowsheds, larders and

shepherd huts are common

in the countryside, offering

self-catered home comforts

with a touch of agricultural

charm. Yurts, geodesic domes,

treehouses, pods and other

glamping-style accommoda-

tion are also common, getting

you even closer to nature

without getting you dirty.

Check facilities on individual

listings; this accommodation

leans towards luxe, but you

may still need to bring some

comforts with you.

standard hotel

£100

boutique B&B

£150

dorm bed

£24

HOW MUCH

FOR A…

BOUTIQUE

HOTELS

Warm, welcoming

and intriguing –

that describes the

people and the

boutique hotels

of Wales. Relax in

style when you

take your pick from

grand mansions

with private gar-

dens, chic seaside

townhouses, cosy

inns with rooms

and Michelin stars,

working vineyards,

B&Bs run by art

collectors and ex-

quisitely appointed

country houses

with on-site spa

facilities.

Staying in Wales provides opportunities to experience the joys of the country. Get

closer to nature in woodland retreats and glamping sites. Watch sunsets from coastal

boltholes. Spot stars through telescopes in cottages within Dark Sky Reserves. Bed

down in a mountainside bunkhouse. Share a room with history in converted castles.

Indulge at a lakeside spa hotel. There's something special for every budget.

WALES ACCOMMODATION

UNIQUE AND LOCAL WAYS TO STAY

249

PAUL

TAYLS/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

CAMPING

There are

hundreds of camp-

sites across Wales,

offering everything

from simple

park-and-pitch to

full-on experiential

sites with on-site

bars, daily yoga

and friendly farm

animals. Prices

start from £10

per night.

Bothies are the most basic form

of roofed accommodation, but

they are often a better alternative

to sleeping under canvas – par-

ticularly if the Welsh weather is at

its worst. They're also free to use

(small donations are appreciated

where there's an honesty box or

similar). Expect very little and you

won't be disappointed; bothies

can look like empty outhouses

(in some cases, they are), but on

occasion you'll find a luxurious

one with a sleeping platform, a

fireplace and a toilet nearby.

Hostels tend to offer more

comfort than bunkhouses. Some

hostels have private rooms as

well as dorms. Usually, hostels

provide beds with bedding in-

stead of undressed bunks. Some

have en-suite bathrooms. You

might also find hostels with bet-

ter eating facilities, sometimes

offering food or bar service.

MOUNTAIN ACCOMMODATION

There are three main alternatives

to camping in a tent on Wales'

mountains, namely bunkhouses,

bothies and hostels. Each offers

something slightly different, but

all are most welcome after a hard

day of hiking.

Bunkhouses are fairly basic and

cheap places to stay. They typi-

cally consist of shared dorms with

bunk beds, a shared bathroom

and, sometimes, rudimentary

cooking facilities. You'll probably

get a mattress to sleep on, but

you'll need your own sleeping bag.

BOOKING

The most convenient way to find, compare and book accommodation is through websites

and travel organisations. Don't worry about Welsh language barriers; it's incredibly rare to

meet someone who speaks Welsh as their first and only language. It might be harder to find

foreign language support (ie not English or Welsh) in rural areas. School holidays and public

holidays are always busy, so book early for these peak times.

Visit Wales (visitwales.com) Broad range of graded accommodation.

Bunkr (bunkr.co.uk) Bunkhouses and hostels.

Hipcamp (hipcamp.com) Find campsites.

Independent Hostels (independenthostels.co.uk) Bunkhouses, hostels and camping barns.

Mountain Bothies Association (mountainbothies.org.uk) Bothies and codes of conduct.

Cool Places (coolplaces.co.uk/places-to-stay/uk/wales) Independent hotels, self-catering

properties and glamping.

Sugar and Loaf (sugarandloaf.com) Luxury holiday cottages.

Welsh Rarebits (rarebits.co.uk) Luxury and boutique hotels.

WALES ACCOMMODATION

250

GOOD TO KNOW

ACCESSIBLE TRAVEL

People are generally happy to help

any one with disabilities. This includes

staff in public places, event venues and ac-

commodation. Rural areas and old buildings

(including castles and some accommoda-

tion) can be less equipped for travellers with

disabilities. Make your needs clear when

booking anything.

Visit Wales (visitwales.com) has pages

dedicated to accessibility.

Public transport is constantly improving its

accessibility. Visit traveline.cymru/accessi-

ble-travel for more information.

The National Key Scheme also known as

the RADAR key scheme, offers people with

disabilities independent access to locked

public toilets. You can purchase a RADAR key

online from radarkeys.org.

The national toilet map shows public-

use toilets and the facilities available. See

gov.wales/find-toilets-open-public.

Other useful links: tourismforall.co.uk;

disabilitywales.org; euansguide.com; dewis.

wales; accessable.co.uk.

Measures are normally

metric, but some

imperial measures

remain (eg road

distances are in miles).

‘Half and half’ on a

menu means a half

portion each of chips

and rice.

Many shops either

close on Sundays or

have reduced opening

times (usually closing

by 4pm).

Stay on the left when

driving, cycling and

standing on escalators.

The legal drinking

age is 18 years. Public

drinking is legal, unless

signage says otherwise.

SIGNS

Signs are generally written in Welsh and

English. Refer to places by their map name.

Electricity

230V/50Hz

Country Code

+44

Time Zone

GMT+0

FAST

FACTS

SMOKING

Smoking indoors

in public is banned.

This includes pubs,

accommodation

and shops. It's

also banned in

certain outdoor

spaces, including

playgrounds and

hospital grounds.

PUBLIC

HOLIDAYS

There are usu-

ally eight public

holidays in Wales.

Most businesses

and banks close for

the day, but some

places of interest,

shops and

eateries open.

WALES ESSENTIALS

ESSENTIAL NUTS-AND-BOLTS

251

ESFERA/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

LGBTIQ+ TRAVELLERS

Wales is a progressive country, priding itself on promoting

equality and non-discrimination. Cardiff is one of the UK's

most LGBTIQ+ friendly cities, with a thriving scene.

Pride Cymru's annual festival takes place every August

Bank Holiday in Cardiff.

Iris Prize LGBT+ Film Festival takes place in Cardiff every

October.

The Gay Outdoor Club runs walks, activities and socials

across Wales.

Follow @LGBTQymru, @GlitterCymru, @QueerCymru and

@PrideCymru on X for event information, advice and news.

EMERGENCY PHONE NUMBERS

There are different phone numbers for emergency services in Wales, based on the

severity of the issue. For real emergencies, call 999 for assistance from the police, fire

brigade, ambulance or coastguard. For non-urgent police, call 101. For non-urgent health

advice, contact the NHS on 111.

MANNERS

Good manners are important, so remember

to say 'please', 'thank you', 'excuse me'

and 'sorry' where necessary. Join or form

a queue when waiting for something,

and never cut in front of other queuers.

Generally, the people of Wales are friendly,

welcoming and happy to help.

Most restaurants will have high

chairs and children’s menus (if not,

it’s OK to ask about smaller portions).

It’s easier to find self-catering

accommodation for families than

it is to get a family room in a hotel

or B&B.

Free or discounted travel is often

available to accompanied children on

public transport.

Discounted family tickets are

common at sights and attractions.

Some places allow reduced or free

entry for children.

FAMILY TRAVEL

BORDER

CONTROL

You don’t need a

passport to travel

into Wales from

England, as they

are both in the UK.

WI-FI

For free wi-fi, visit

a public library

or see if nearby

cafes, bars or pubs

have hotspots.

VISAS

Usually, visitors

staying for under

six months don’t

need a visa. The

UK isn’t in the

Schengen zone.

WALES ESSENTIALS

You can get by almost anywhere in Wales these days

without speaking Welsh. Nevertheless, anyone who’s

serious about getting to grips with Welsh culture will

find it fun trying to speak basic Welsh.

The Welsh language belongs to the Celtic branch

of the Indo-European language family. It’s closely

related to Breton and Cornish, and more distantly to

Irish, Scottish and Manx. It’s estimated there are over

700,000 Welsh speakers in Wales.

All letters in Welsh are pronounced and the stress is

usually on the second-last syllable. Note that vowels

can be long or short. Those marked with a circumflex

(eg ê) are long; those with a grave accent (eg è) short.

YES & NO

How you say‘yes’and‘no’in Welsh depends on the

verb used in the question. So, rather than simply

‘yes’, you might answer‘I do’ (Ydw) or‘It is’ (Ydy).

Here are just a few examples:

Yes./No.

Ie./Nage.

yeh/nah·geh

(general use when the question doesn’t start with

a verb)

I do./I am.

Ydw.

uh·doo

I don't./I'm not. Nac ydw.

nak uh·do

It is.

Ydy.

uh·dee

It isn't.

Nac ydy.

nak uh·dee

252

LANGUAGE

BASICS

Hello.

Sut mae.

sit mai

Goodbye.

Hwyl fawr.

hueyl vowr

See you.

Wela i chi.

we·lah ee khee

Please.

Os gwelwch

os gwe·lookh

in dda.

uhn thah

Thank you.

Diolch.

dee·olkh

You're welcome. Croeso.

kroy·soh

Excuse me.

Esgusodwch fi. es·gi·so·dookh vee

May I?

Ga i?

gah ee

I don't know.

Wn i ddim.

oon ee dhim

Sorry/

Mae’n ddrwg

main throog

Forgive me.

gyda fi.

guh·da vee

What’s your name?

Beth yw eich enw chi?

beth yu uhkh e·noo khee

My name is …

Fy enw i yw …

vuh e·noo ee yu …

I don’t understand.

Dw i ddim in deall.

doo ee thim uhn deh·ahl

EATING & DRINKING

Are you serving food?

Ydych chi’n gweini

uh·deekh kheen gway·nee

bwyd?

bweed

A table for …, please.

Bwrdd i … os gwelwch

boordh ee … os gwe·lookh

yn dda.

uhn thah

Can I see the menu, please?

Ga i weld y fwydlen,

gah ee weld uh voo·eed·len

os gwelwch yn dda?

os gwe·lookh uhn thah

Can I have ... ?

Ga i …?

gah ee …

The bill, please.

Y bil, os gwelwch yn

uh bil os gwe·lookh uhn

dda.

thah

Cheers!

Iechyd Da!

ye·khid dah

WALES PHRASES

TO

GET

YOU

TALKING

253

WALES INDEX

A–C

A

abbeys 140, 169, 202, 211, 236

Abergavenny 104, 110

Abergorlech 137

Abergwesyn Common 190

Aberystwyth 180–3

accessible travel 250

accommodation 248–9, see also

camping, individual locations

activities 8–11, 24–31, see

also individual activities

airport 240

Anglesey 212–13, 236, 237, 206-7

animals 156–7, see also birdwatch–

ing, dolphin watching, puffins

archaeological sites 228–9, see

also hill forts

Arthur’s Stone 127

Bronze Age Mine 221

Carreg Coetan Arthur 153

Carreg Samson 171

Coetan Arthur 167

Dolaucothi Gold Mines 139

Garn Goch 111

Giant’s Grave 127

Gwal y Filiast 140

Moel Tŷ Uchaf 227

Mynydd Carningli 153

Owain Glyndŵr’s Mount 227

Pentre Ifan 153

Preselli Hills 152–3

Samson’s Jack 127

Sweyne’s Howes 127

Trellech 111

art galleries, see museums &

galleries

Arthurian legends 97, 153

arts & cultural centres 51, 69, 183,

203

ATMs 245

B

Bardsey Island 210–11

Barry 71–2

bathrooms 245

beaches 12–13

Aberdyfi Beach 236

Barafundle Bay 165

Barry Island 71–2

Broad Haven South 165

Carmarthenshire 128–9

Cefn Sidan 129

Freshwater East 166

Freshwater West 165–6

Gower, the 128–9

Harlech Beach 215

Jackson’s Bay 72

Llanbedrog Beach 215

Llangennith 129

Llansteffan 129

Mill Bay 167

North Shore Beach 221

Oxwich Bay 141

Pendine Sands 129

Talacre Beach 215

Traeth Bach 203

Traeth Llanddwyn 213

Traeth Porthor 215

Traeth yr Ora 215

Watwick Bay 167

West Shore Beach 221

Whistling Sands 215

Whitesands 171

Whitmore Bay 71–2

Beddgelert Forest 232

beer 16, 123, 162, 203, 222–3

Berwyn Mountains 226–7

bicycle travel, see cycling, moun–

tain biking

birdwatching 108, 131, 141, 154–5

Black Mountains 95, 106–7

Blaenavon 87

Blue Lagoon 165

boat tours 154–5, 172, 184–5, 224–5,

225

bog snorkelling 199

books 20–1, 30, 42, 98–9, 181–2

Braich y Pwll 211

Brechfa Forest 136–7

Brecon Beacons 78–111, 80-1

accommodation 83, 93, 101, 106,

110–11

activities 88–9, 92–3, 94–5, 101,

106–7, 108–9, 111, 107, 109

drinking 103–4

food 84–5, 101, 102–5,

106, 110

history 86–7, 96–7

itineraries 32–3, 32-3

planning 32, 80–1

practicalities 82–83

Burry Holms 127

bus travel 49, 241, 242

Bwlch Corog 190

C

Cadw pass 117

Index

000 Map pages

254

000 Map pages

WALES INDEX

C–D

Cambrian Mountains 109, 190–1

Camelot 97

camping 93, 249

canal boating 224–5

canoeing 108

Canton 50–1

Capel Curig 232–3

car travel 241, 242

Cardiff 44–77, 46-7

accommodation 49

activities 59, 62–3

children, travel with 76, 77

drinking 49, 50–1, 76

entertainment 51, 54–5, 69, 77

food 49, 50–1, 59, 66–7, 69, 76–7

internet access 49

itineraries 34–5, 52–3, 66–7, 53, 67

practicalities 48–49

planning 34–5, 46–7, 48–9

shopping 52–3, 69, 74–5

Cardiff Bay 68–9

Cardigan Island 185

Carmarthenshire 112–41, 114-15

accommodation 117, 141

activities 128–9, 136–7, 138–9, 140,

129, 1336

drinking 117, 124–5, 137, 138, 140

food 117, 124–5, 133, 135, 137, 138,

140, 141

itineraries 34–5

planning 34–5, 114–15, 116–17

practicalities 116–7

shopping 133

Carreg Wastad Point 171

castles 6, 27, 64–5, 248

Beaumaris Castle 217

Caernarfon Castle 216–17

Caerphilly Castle 111

Cardiff Castle 62–3

Cardigan Castle 202

Carew Castle 173

Carreg Cennen 97

Castell Coch 63

Castell Dinas 95

Chepstow Castle 65, 111

Chirk Castle 225

Conwy Castle 217, 219

Criccieth Castle 217

Dinefwr Castle 133

Dolbadarn Castle 217

Dryslwyn Castle 133

Ewloe Castle 65

Gwrych 236

Harlech Castle 65, 193, 215, 216

Kidwelly Castle 133

Llansteffan Castle 129, 133

Manorbier Castle 173

Pembroke Castle 173

Pennard Castle 127

Powis Castle 193, 202

Swansea Castle 65

Sycharth Castle 193

Wiston Castle 65

cathedrals, see churches & ca–

thedrals

caves 111, 127, 139, 232

cell phones 240

Cemaes Head 171, 185

Centre for Alternative Technology

(CAT) 189

cheese 24, 74, 105, 203

Chepstow 109

children, travel with 76, 251

Church Rock 165

Church Stretton 201

churches & cathedrals

Bardsey Chapel 211

Hereford Cathedral 109

Norwegian Church 69

Soar–y–Mynydd 139

St Brynach’s Church 151,

167, 169

St David’s Cathedral 168, 169

St Dogmaels 169

St Govan’s Chapel 165

St Gwyndaf’s Church 173

St Hywyn’s Church 211

St Illtyd’s Church 169

St Mary’s Chapel 107

St Mary’s Church 111

St Michael’s Church 137

St Winefride’s Holy Well & Chapel

236

climate 24–31, 40, 244

coal mining 86–7, 105

coastal paths

Gower Coast Path 140

North Wales 214–15, 215

Isle of Anglesey Coast Path 236

Pembrokeshire Coast Path 170–1,

171

Wales Coast Path 73, 127,

185, 211

coasteering 148–9, 172

Conwy 218–19

coracle fishing 124, 134–5

costs 241, 242, 245, 248

Covid-19 244

Cowbridge 73

Craven Arms 201

credit cards 245

Crickhowell 100–1

currency exchange 240, 245

Cwm Pennant 231–2

Cwmystwyth 191

cycling 19, 63, 128–9, 243, 129

D

Dahl, Roald 69

Denbigh 236

255

Devil’s Bridge 203

Devil’s Staircase 190

disabilities, travellers with 250

Dinas Head 167, 171

discounts 117, 245

distilleries 123, 162

Dolgellau 236

dolphin watching 184–5

drinks 14–15, see also beer, distiller–

ies, tea, wine

driving 241, 242

driving tours 19

Brecon Beacons 106–7, 107

Bwlch y Groes 236

Carmarthenshire 138–9, 139

Mid–Wales 192–3, 203, 193

Snowdonia 236

Vale of Ewyas 106–7, 107

E

Eisteddfod 25, 186–7

Elan Valley 203

Ellesmere 225

emergencies 251

etiquette 41, 251

events 24–31, 199

F

family travel 76, 251

festivals 24–31, 98–9, 101, 119, 199,

251, see also food, music

films 43

Fishguard 171, 172

food 14–15, 17 , 124–5, see also

cheese, rarebits, sewin, individual

regions

festivals 24, 26, 104, 123

foraging 84–5, 140, 159, 162–3

G

galleries, see museums & galleries

gardens, see parks & gardens

gay travellers 25, 26, 251

Glamorgan Heritage Coast 73

Glyndŵr, Owain 192–3, 227, 232

Golden Road 152–3

Gower, the 116, 117, 122–3, 126–7,

128–9, 140, 114-15

Grassholm Island 155

Great Orme Headland 221

Grindley Brook 225

Gwaun Valley 150–1

H

Hay–on–Wye 30, 98–9, 107, 197

Heart of Wales 200–1

Hereford 109

hiking 10–11, see also coastal paths

Anglesey 236

Beacons Way 95

Berwyn Mountains 226–7

Brechfa Forest 136–7

Brecon Beacons 92–3, 94–5

Cambrian Mountains 190–1

Cambrian Way 203

Carmarthenshire 136–7

Dee Valley Way 227

Mid–Wales 196–7, 197

North Wales Pilgrim’s Way 211

Offa’s Dyke Path 196–7, 197

Pembrokeshire 151, 167, 169,

170–1, 171

Snowdonia National Park 230–3

Snowdonia Slate Trail 235

Wayfarers Trail 227

Wye Valley Walk 108–9, 109

hill forts 95, 101, 127, 153, 227, 228

history 6–7, see also individual

regions

holidays 250

I

insurance, health 244

internet access 40, 240, 251

internet resources 43, 247

itineraries 32–9, 32-3, 34-5, 36-7,

38-9

K

kayaking 108

King Arthur 97, 127, 153

Knighton 197, 201

L

lakes & reservoirs

Elan Valley 203

Lake Vyrnwy 203

Llandrindod Lake 199

Llyn Brianne 138–9, 190

Llyn Cwm Llwch 97

Llyn Idwal 233

Llyn Ogwen 233

Llyn Parc Mawr 213

Llyn–y–Fan Fach 95, 96

Talybont Reservoir 111

language 41, 252

Laugharne 119

laverbread 124

LGBTIQ+ travellers 25, 26, 251

libraries 181–3, 237

literature 20–1, 30, 42, 96–7, 98–9

Llandeilo 141, 201

Llandrillo 227

Llandrindod Wells 199, 201

Llandudno 220–1

Llangennith 128, 129

Llangollen Canal 224–5

Llanrhidian 127

Llansteffan 129

Llanthony Priory 107

Llantwit Major 73

Llanwrtyd Wells 199

love spoons 90–1

WALES INDEX

D–M

256

000 Map pages

WALES INDEX

M–P

M

Machynlleth 188–9, 193

markets 52–3, 67, 123, 135

Merthyr Mawr 73

Mid–Wales 174–203, 176-7

accommodation 179, 189,

199, 202

activities 184–5, 190–1, 192–3,

196–7, 198–9, 200–1, 203, 193,

197, 201

drinking 179, 182, 202, 203

entertainment 186–7

food 179, 182, 183, 202

history 192–3, 194–5, 196–7

planning 176–7, 178–9

practicalities 78–9

shopping 181, 195, 203

mobile phones 240

money 240, 245

Monmouth 109

Montgomery 197

mountain biking, see also cycling

Antur Stiniog 233, 235

Brechfa Forest 136–7

Brecon Beacons 111

Carmarthenshire 136–7

Coed–y–Brenin 233

Penmachno Trails 233

Snowdonia 233, 235

mountains

Berwyn Mountains 226–7

Black Mountains 95, 106–7, 107

Brecon Beacons 94–5, 97, 101,

107, 111

Cambrian Mountains 109, 190–1

Preseli Hills 152–3

Snowdonia National Park 230–3,

236

Mumbles 141

museums & galleries

Big Pit National Coal Museum

87, 105

Castell Henlys 173

Dylan Thomas Birthplace 119–20

Dylan Thomas Boathouse

119, 140

Museum of Cardiff 76

National Coracle Centre 135

National Museum Cardiff 76

National Slate Museum 235

National Waterfront Museum 140

National Wool Museum 195

St Fagans National History

Museum 76

Techniquest 76

Textile Museum 195

music 42, 54–5, 186–7

festivals 25, 27, 54, 101

Myddfai 96

mythology 96–7

N

national parks & nature reserves

Cors Dyfi Nature Reserve 189

Fforest Fawr Unesco Global

Geopark 97

Gigrin Farm Red Kite Feeding

Station 203

Llanelli Wetlands Centre 141

Newborough Forest 213

Snowdonia National Park 230–3

Sychpant National Park Picnic

Site 151

Teifi Marshes Nature Reserve 135

Waun Las National Nature

Reserve 131

Ynys–Hir Nature Reserve 189

Ynyslas National Nature Reserve

189

Newport 171

North Coast, the 204–37, 206-7

accommodation 209, 211, 237,

215

activities 214–15, 220–1, 236

drinking 209, 221, 237

food 209, 211, 214, 221, 237

history 234–5

itineraries 36–7

money 209

planning 36–7, 206–7, 208–9

practicalities 208–9

Offa’s Dyke 196–7, 197

P

parks & gardens

Alexandra Park 72

Bute Park 57–8

Clyne Gardens 140

Cwmdonkin Park 120

Dyffryn Gardens 73

Happy Valley 221

Heath Park 59

National Botanic Garden of Wales

130–1

Parc Cefn Onn 59

Parc–Le–Breos 127

Roath Park 58–9

Rock Park 199

Victoria Park 59

Pembrokeshire 142–73, 144-5

accommodation 147, 155, 172–3

activities 148–9, 150–1, 154–5,

164–7, 169, 170–1, 172, 171

drinking 147, 151, 162, 172

food 147, 160–3, 172, 173

history 152–3, 168–9

itineraries 32–3

planning 32–3, 144–5, 146–7

practicalities 146–7

Penarth 72

257

planning 32–9, 32-3, 34-5, 36-7,

38-9

Plas Newydd 236

podcasts 42

Pontcanna 50–1

Pontcysyllte Aqueduct 225

Pontfaen 151

Porth Meudwy 211

Porthgain 171, 172

Porthmelgan Bay 167

Portmeirion 236

Preseli Hills 152–3

Presteigne 197

public holidays 250

puffins 154–5, 156

Pwll y Wrach 165

R

radio 42

Ramsey Island 155

rarebits 103

reservoirs, see lakes & reservoirs

responsible travel 246–7

Rhossili Bay 121, 127

road trips, see driving tours

Ross–on–Wye 109

Royal Welsh Show 24, 199

rugby 29

S

safe travel 244

Senedd 69

sewin 124, 135

sheep 92–3, 194–5

SIM cards 240

Skokholm Island 155

Skomer Island 154–5

slate mining 234–5

Smallest House in Britain 219

smoking 250

Snowdonia 36–7, 206-7

accommodation 209, 237

activities 11, 230–3, 235, 236

food 209, 237

practicalities 208–9

social media 43

southeast Wales 78–111, 80-1

accommodation 83, 93, 101, 106,

110–11

activities 88–9, 92–3, 94–5, 101,

106–7, 108–9, 111, 107, 109

drinking 83, 103–4

food 83, 84–5, 101, 102–5, 106, 110

history 86–7, 96–7

planning 80–1, 82–3

practicalities 82–3

spas 199

St Ann’s Head 167

St Davids 147, 158–9, 162, 163,

172, 173

St Davids Head 167, 171

St Dogmaels 171, 172

stargazing 18, 88–9, 191

Strumble Head 166, 171

surfing 128, 172

sustainable travel 22–3, 158–9,

188–9, 246–7

Swansea 116, 117, 118–121,

122–3, 140

T

tea 103

Teifi Pools 190

television 43

Thomas, Dylan 20, 118–21, 140

Three Cliffs Bay 127

tipping 245

time zone 250

toilets 245

Tolkien 101

tourist information 40, 43, see also

individual regions

tours, see boat tours, cycling tours,

driving tours, walking tours

train travel 200–1, 203, 227, 235,

241, 243

travel seasons 24–31, 40, 244, see

also individual regions

travel to/from Wales 240–1

travel within Wales 40, 242–3

trekking, see hiking

U

Usk Valley 101

V

Vale of Ewyas 106–7

Vale of Glamorgan 70–3

vegetarian & vegan travellers 77,

189

visas 251

W

walking, see coastal paths, hiking

walking tours 52–3, 66–7, 108–9, 53,

66-7,109

waterfalls 97, 140, 203, 227

weather 24–31, 40, 244

Welsh language 252

Welshpool 193, 197

white–water rafting 69, 141, 237

wine 14, 103–4, 125

Womanby Street 54–5

wool industry 194–5

Worms Head 121, 127

Wye Valley 108–9, 109

Y

Ynys Llanddwyn 212–13

Ynys yr Adar 213

Z

ziplining 235, 237

WALES INDEX

P–Z

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2nd Edition - Jun 2025
ISBN 978 1 83758 843 5

‘Foraging on the Pembrokeshire coast makes me feel

utterly alive. Here among the seaweeds, waves, limpet-

bejewelled rock pools and trilling seabirds, I find my

happy place.’

KERRY WALKER

‘Be ready to share roads and car parks with

freely roaming sheep in Wales, particularly in

more remote areas.’

AMY PAY

‘Deliberately avoiding civilisation by doing a hike up one

of the region’s loneliest summits...and being invited in for a

glass of wine at the only inhabited building:

that’s Mid-Wales all over!’

LUKE WATERSON

KERRY

WALKER/LONELY

PLANET

©

CHRISDORNEY/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

THIS BOOK

Commissioning editor

Amy Lynch

Production editor

Graham O’Neill

Cartographer

Julie Dodkins

Book designer

Hannah Blackie

Coordinating Editor

Simon Williamson

Cover researcher

Kat Marsh

Thanks Jennifer McCann,

Ailbhe MacMahon,

Kate Mathews,

Charlottle Orr, Maja Vatrić

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