TURN THE PAGE AND START PLANNING

YOUR NEXT BEST TRIP 

Marvel at Wren’s masterpiece from

atop the Tate Modern. Dine at a Michelin-

starred restaurant in hip East London.

See some of the world’s greatest works of

art for free. Cycle out to a rural escape.

Hunt vampires and say hello to Karl Marx

at Highgate Cemetery. Bar-hop through

hip Hoxton and Shoreditch. Explore

fascinating ethnic neighbourhoods and

eat like a local in Brick Lane. Go wild

swimming in Hampstead Heath. Watch a

sunset from atop Parliament Hill. Down

a pint of craft beer at a Bermondsey

microbrewery.

This is London.

Meet our writers

Tharik Hussain

@tharik_hussain @ _tharikhussain

London-based Tharik is author of the acclaimed book

Minarets in the Mountains; AJourney into Muslim

Europe, and knows a thing or two about Muslim heritage

and travel. He’s also authored Lonely Planet guides to

Thailand, Bahrain and Saudi Arabia.

Hannah Ajala

@hannah_ajala

British-Nigerian Hannah shares a lot of her local and

global adventures mostly online and through her work

as an international journalist, from West African travel

to being a proud Londoner. She’s currently producing

and presenting podcasts for the BBC.

Linda Konde

@lyndakonde

Linda is a Congolese-born journalist and editor from

Sweden and a former Los Angeles resident. She is

passionate about travel, culture and food, and runs

Vacay Stories, a colourful blog about London, food

and travels.

Travis Levius

@misterlevius

Travis is a Brooklyn-born multimedia journalist and

content creator straddling the Atlantic between

Atlanta and London. He runs workshops on freelance

travel writing and is in the early stages of penning a

book bridging self-help and travel.

PREVIOUS SPREAD: SVEN HANSCHE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Demi Perera

@girl_travelsworld

Demi was born in Sri Lanka and grew up in London.

She loves the energy and diversity of the city.

Demi’s favourite way of exploring any destination

is on foot; best for catching things you’d not notice

any other way.

Qin Xie

@qinxiesays

Qin Xie is a London-based journalist and editor

specialising in food and travel. When not away on

assignment, she loves to check out London’s new

restaurants, go paddleboarding on the Thames and

see quirky shows at smaller theatres.

MISTERVLAD/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

Oxford Street (p55)

LONDON MEET

OUR

WRITERS

3

Best Experiences ................. 6

Calendar ..............................18

My Perfect Day................... 26

7 Things to Know

About London .....................30

Read, Listen,

Watch & Follow................... 32

The West End

34

Take in Culture

at the Opera ....................... 38

The Queen’s Diamond

Jubilee Galleries................. 40

Catch a Show

at Drury Lane ..................... 42

Buckingham Palace

for a Day ............................. 44

Walk the Historic

West End............................. 46

Spend a Night in Soho....... 48

Listings ............................... 54

City of London

56

Explore the London

of the Romans....................60

Tour the Soaring

High-Rises .......................... 62

Relax in Hidden Gardens.... 66

Insider’s Tower

of London............................ 68

Imbibe on a

Historic Pub Crawl ............. 70

Listings ................................74

South Bank

76

South Bank

Food Markets .....................80

Get Stuck in

at Borough Market............. 82

Discover Vibrant

Street Art............................ 84

See a Show at

the Globe ............................ 86

Best Free Views

of London............................ 88

Listings ...............................90

Kensington & Hyde Park 92

The Royal

College of Music................. 96

Shop Harrods

on a Budget ........................ 98

Explore Art in

a Royal Park...................... 100

Go Indie on King’s Road .... 102

Listings ............................. 106

Clerkenwell,

Shoreditch

& Spitalfields

108

Unearth History

in Clerkenwell.................... 112

Catch a Gig

in Shoreditch..................... 114

Taste Culture

in Spitalfields..................... 116

Listings ............................. 120

East London

122

East End

Market Weekend ...............126

Hackney’s

Wick-ed Brews ..................128

Brick Lane’s

Sylheti Soul ...................... 130

Cycle London’s Wilds........132

A Day Out in

Dalston & Clapton.............134

Out on the Town

in Dalston...........................136

Listings ..............................138

Hampstead

& North London

140

Haunt Hampstead’s

Taverns ..............................144

Ottoman North London....146

Wild Swimming

on the Heath......................148

Tour Abandoned

Tube Stations ....................152

Listings ..............................156

Notting HIll

& West London

158

Browse Markets

on Portobello.....................162

Find Zen at

Holland Park......................164

Graffik Gallery Graffiti.......166

Saunter Through

Little Venice.......................168

Listings ..............................172

Contents

LONDON CONTENTS

4

GIORGIOGALANO/GETTY

IMAGES

©

Portobello Road Market, Notting Hill (p162)

ESSAYS

London’s Evolving

Chinatown Food Scene......52

London’s Hidden

Skyscrapers .......................64

Romantic

Gothic London..................104

The Tube’s

Disused Stations.............. 154

VISUAL GUIDES

City of London

in TV & Films....................... 72

Shoreditch Street Art .......118

High-End Hampstead ......150

Don’t Leave

London Without................ 170

South London

Art Galleries......................186

Brixton, Peckham

& South London

174

Stroll Peckham’s

Rye Lane...........................178

Explore a

Hidden River Trail............ 180

Browse Brixton

Village Market ..................182

Go the Bermondsey

Beer Mile...........................184

Listings .............................188

Day Trips

190

Explore Vineyards

in Canterbury ...................194

A Royal Day at

Windsor Castle.................196

Follow the Cambridge

Food Trail ..........................198

Literary Magic

in Oxford .......................... 202

Practicalities

206

Arriving ............................208

Getting Around.................210

Accommodation ..............212

Safe Travel ........................214

Money...............................215

Responsible Travel ...........216

Essentials .........................218

Index

220

LONDON CONTENTS

5

6

LONDON

BEST

EXPERIENCES

COSMOPOLITAN

CUISINE

When the population of a city

has more than 270 nationalities (and

counting), is it any surprise the culinary

offerings are as diverse as the people

living in it? Whether it’s fine dining or

street food you love, London will have a

Michelin-starred restaurant or a market

stall dishing up your favourite cuisine.

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7

Left Curries, Camden Market Right

Lyle's (p138) Below Seafood, Da

Terra (p138)

LONDON BEST

EXPERIENCES

A REAL CURRY

If you’re tired of the menus offered in most of London’s‘Indian’

restaurants, try new eateries like Graam Bangla, which serves

authentic Sylheti food, on Brick Lane (p130).

Û FUSION FUN

London has a long tradition of restaurants experimenting with

cuisine; indulge in fusion food at the likes of Michelin-starred Da

Terra, which plates up a set menu inspired by European and South

American cuisines (p138).

Ú MICHELIN-STARRED

EAST LONDON

Central London might be

famous for its Michelin-

starred restaurants but

some of the most exciting

are now in the East End. Go

for micro-seasonal dishes

at Lyle’s near Brick Lane,

or Behind in Hackney for

a sustainable fish-focused

tasting menu (p138).

Best Foodie Markets

u Head south of the river for

one of the best places for

street food, Southbank Centre

Food Market (p80)

u Learn how to make your

own bread and doughnuts

at Borough Market (p82)

u Visit the under rated Exmouth

Market in Clerkenwell for

Indian and Mediterranean food

stalls (p112)

u Find the widest ethnic

choices and the largest halal

offerings of all the markets

at Brick Lane’s Sunday food

market (p126)

8

STREET

MARKETS

London’s markets fall broadly

into two categories. There are the local

ones that still ‘stack ’em high and sell

’em cheap’, and those that are less about

buying and more about the experience,

whether that be browsing for vintage

clothes as a busker plays jazz nearby,

or tucking into a delicious Sri Lankan

sambal as you eye up that handmade

necklace.

LONDON

BEST

EXPERIENCES

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ROSTUNOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK

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LEFT:

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PAOLO

PARADISO/SHUTTERSTOCK

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9

Left Columbia Road Flower Market

(p127) Right Vintage clothes stalls,

Old Spitalfieds Market (p116) Below

Brick Lane Market (p126)

THE LOCALS

For delicious Asian street food like chana chaat or just to observe

real local life in East London, visit markets such as Whitechapel

Market (p138).

Û SUNDAY MARKET TRAIL

There are lots of Sunday market experiences in London, but few

match Bethnal Green’s Brick Lane and Hackney’s Columbia Road

Flower Market combo (p126).

Ú HAGGLING

Haggling is fine when

buying anything but food

at a market – just don’t

be too cheeky, and if

you want the best deals,

arrive towards closing

time.

Memorable Market

Experiences

u Head to Spitalfields Market,

a handicraft haven (p116)

u Browse authentic South

Asian clothing at Whitechapel

Market (p138)

u Spend a lazy Sunday

afternoon at Herne Hill Market

for artisan crafts and vintage

finds (p189)

u Indulge your green thumb

at the Columbia Road Flower

Market (p127)

u Enjoy the essential Notting

Hill experience: Portobello

Road Market (p162)

LONDON

BEST

EXPERIENCES

10

THE WORLD

IN LONDON

London has always been a city of

immigrants: Romans, Vikings, Anglo-

Saxons, Normans, Huguenots, Jews, the

Irish, Afro-Caribbeans, Asians and, more

recently, Eastern Europeans have all

called it home. It’s what makes London

such a spectacularly special place. Some

of these communities arrived in larger

numbers and established themselves

in neighbourhoods where today they

have their own markets, restaurants,

places of worship and community

centres. Wandering through them is like

wandering across to another place.

LONDON

BEST

EXPERIENCES

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GUIBERTEAU/SHUTTERSTOCK

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198

CONTEMPORARY

ARTS

AND

LEARNING

©

11

Left Chinese New Year celebration

(p23) Right 198 Contemporary Arts

and Learning (p186), Brixton Below

Boisakhi Mela celebration (p25)

FRINGE THEATRE

Wandsworth’s Tara Theatre stages plays produced by British South

Asian communities, which explore the socio-political issues these

communities are facing (p188).

Û CARNIVALS

Notting Hill Carnival (p172) may by London’s most famous,

but other ethnic festivals like the Boisakhi Mela (p25), which

celebrates the Bengali New Year, are also worth discovering.

Ú ETHNIC ART

Take in an exhibition at a

gallery dedicated to diverse

voices such Brixton’s 198

Contemporary Arts and

Learning (p186), which

was once at the forefront

of Britain’s Black Arts

movement.

Best Ethnic

Neighbourhoods

u Explore the neighbourhood

around Brick Lane to glimpse

life in London’s Bangladeshi

community (p130)

u Meander from Shoreditch

all the way through to Dalston

for a distinctly Anatolian air

(p134)

u Take in a vibrant display of

Chinese culture in Chinatown,

albeit a commercial version, in

central London close to Soho

(p52)

u Hit Whitechapel Market for

exotic fruit and street food

from Bangladesh (p138)

LONDON BEST

EXPERIENCES

12

LONDON BY

FOOT & PEDAL

London is the capital of a

country that popularised the very

notion of hiking, which is why it is

an extremely walkable place with

plenty of green spaces. Discover new

waterways and explore fascinating

wildlife on interesting walking and

cycling trails that allow you to enjoy the

city in different ways. London remains

slightly behind when it comes to cycle-

friendliness, however, so be careful and

cautious on your bike.

LONDON

BEST

EXPERIENCES

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NAGY/SHUTTERSTOCK

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LEFT:

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JUNG/SHUTTERSTOCK

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COWARDLION/SHUTTERSTOCK

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13

Left Skyline views, Primrose Hill

(p142) Right Santandar bicycles

Below World Naked Bike Ride,

Westminster Bridge

APPY WALKS & CYCLES

Try these apps for routes: TfL Go, Footpath Route Planner,

Cyclestreets and Cyclers. Also try the Sustrans (sustrans.

org.uk) website.

Û THE NAKED CYCLE

Fancy raising cycle safety awareness as you pedal in your

birthday suit? Then join London’s World Naked Bike Ride

in June.

Ú HIRING BIKES

Bike hires are few and

far between in London,

as most people opt to

just rent the ubiquitous

Santander bicycles.

Best Walks & Bike Rides

u Walk the River Wandle Trail

and explore a secret‘bucolic’

London river (p180)

u Cycle the towpaths of the

Lea Valley to experience a

hidden rural London (p132)

u Wander the South Bank and

see London from the banks of

Ol’Father Thames (p88)

u Explore open fields in the

Walthamstow Marshes and

exotic migrating birds at the

nearby wetlands (p132)

u Stroll through the magnif-

icent Hampstead Heath and

enjoy stunning views from

Primrose Hill (p148)

LONDON BEST

EXPERIENCES

14

PAJOR

PAWEL/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

VISTA

VENTURES

Back in the ’80s there was one skyscraper in

all of London, the Natwest Tower, and the general

public weren’t allowed to enjoy the spectacular

views it offered. Today, Londoners are spoiled for

choice: there are sky-high restaurants, cafes, viewing

balconies and even public parks offering stunning

vistas across the city.

 BIRD’S-EYE

VIEWING

While admiring

the views, see if

you can spot one

of these unusual

London high

flyers:

u ring-necked

parakeet

u long-tailed tit

u chaffinch

u coal tit

Best

Viewpoints

u Grab breakfast at

the Duck & Waffle

as you watch the

sunrise over the city

(p74)

u Visit London’s

public park in the

sky, Sky Garden, for

stunning city vistas

(pictured; p67)

u Sip a cocktail at

GŎNG bar, located

inside the city’s

iconic‘piece of

glass’,which looks

upon London from

south of the river

(p90)

u Enjoy a coffee

while staring directly

at London’s impres-

sive skyline from

the Tate Modern’s

cafe (p88)

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FB93/SHUTTERSTOCK

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PARK

LIFE

One of the greatest achievements of London’s

Victorian city planners was their success in

integrating green parks into the otherwise heaving

and overburdened city. Today, London has more green

spaces than most of the world’s capital cities, with

almost every neighbourhood featuring a green space of

some sort. Some of the most iconic and famous make

for a great day out.

 THE SMALL

ONES

There are a

number of great

small green

spaces:

u London Fields

in Hackney

u Victoria Park in

East London

u Coram’s Fields

in Russell Square

u Southwark Park

in Bermondsey

The Big Ones

u Spot migrating

birds and dodge

grazing cows at east

London’s Waltham-

stow marshes and

wetlands (p132)

u There are pleasure

boats on lakes and

Shakespeare plays in

the evenings during

the summer at

Regent’s Park (p54)

u Take a dip in one

of three swimming

ponds at Hampstead

Heath, one of the

most popular green

spaces in northwest

London (p148)

u Enjoy a classic

English picnic in

the regal shade of

Buckingham Palace

at west London’s

Hyde Park (p100)

u Hang out with

the peacocks at the

wonderful Kyoto Gar-

den in Holland Park

(pictured; p164)

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BOTTOM:

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16

Above The Kernel Brewery (p185)

Left Ye Olde Watling (p70)

LONDON

BREWING

London’s always

been obsessed with

making its own ‘poison’ –

remember the 18th-century

gin craze? Today things

are a bit more sensible.

While local gin distilling

has returned, the coolest

thing to do is head to

one of the many trendy

microbreweries, where a

local connoisseur will serve

you the perfect craft beer.

Ú DRINK IN A HISTORIC PUB

Down a pint in an ancient Lon-

don pub like the Ye Olde Watling

(p70); built by Sir Christopher

Wren in 1668, this is where he

reportedly drew up the plans

for St Paul’s Cathedral.

 MAKE YOUR OWN

Make your own beer

at the London Beer

Lab and Tap Room

alongside experts and

connoisseurs at this

south London nano

brewery (p182).

Best

Microbreweries

u The Kernel Brewery

was the first to setup

in Bermondsey and

its brews remain ever

popular (p185)

u The Fourpure Brew-

ing Co in Bermondsey

promises unpreten-

tious, full-flavoured

craft beer (p185)

u The Crate Brewery

in Hackney Wick not

only makes great

craft beer but also

delicious pizza (p128)

u The Howling Hops

Brewery & Tank Bar

are generous with

their hops (p128)

LONDON

BEST

EXPERIENCES

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KIEV.VICTOR/SHUTTERSTOCK

©;

BOTTOM:

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17

Above Victoria & Albert Museum

(p106) Left Natural History

Museum (p106)

FREE

CULTURE

No other city in

the world offers free

access to as many world-

class cultural institutes

as London. Given how

expensive the city can be,

the fact that you can see

a genuine Rembrandt or

Monet and try to decode

the Rosetta Stone for free is

mind-bogglingly wonderful.

 BOOK AHEAD

Many museums and galleries

have adopted a ticketing ser-

vice with allocated entry times,

so be sure to book ahead where

required.

 TRANSPARENCY

& DIVERSIFICATION

A healthy debate about

how to respectfully

‘decolonise’ these

traditional cultural in-

stitutes has begun and

seen some – such as

the Museum of Home

(p139) – change their

names.

Best Free

Spaces

u See what life on

the city’s docks was

like at the London

Museum Docklands

(p139)

u Enjoy an exhibition

by a cutting-edge art-

ist at the Whitechapel

Art Gallery (p139)

u Learn about London

Black heritage at

the Black Cultural

Archives (p189)

u Explore nature at

the Natural History

Museum (p106)

LONDON

BEST

EXPERIENCES

18

SUMMER

JULY

Average daytime max: 17°C

Days of rainfall: 13

London in

 Trooping the Colour

The King’s official birthday is

celebrated with much flag-waving,

parades, pageantry and noisy

flyovers on the second Saturday

of June.

 trooping-the-colour.co.uk

 Open Garden

Squares Weekend

Over a weekend in early

June, 200-plus gardens,

usually inaccessible to

the public, open their

gates.

Peak Travel Season

Demand for accommodation peaks

during summer. Book tours, flights and

insurance in advance at lonelyplanet.

com/bookings.

 Wimbledon Lawn

Tennis Championships

For two weeks in June and July,

the South London village of

Wimbledon becomes the central

focus of the tennis world.

 Wimbledon

 wimbledon.com

LONDON

PLAN

BY

SEASON

i Packing Notes

Summer hats,

sunglasses and

sunscreen for

those occasional

‘heatwaves’and a light

packable rain jacket.

19

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FESTIVAL REPUBLIC ©, JESSICAGIRVAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, MS JANE

CAMPBELL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, SAMPAJANO_ANIZZA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BOTTOM: N_FUJITA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

LONDON

PLAN

BY

SEASON

AUGUST

Average daytime max: 19°C

Days of rainfall: 14

Average daytime max: 18°C

Days of rainfall: 13

 Wireless

One of London’s

top music festivals,

with an emphasis

on dance and R&B.

Held in July at a

large London park.

 wirelessfestival.co.uk

 Notting Hill Carnival

Europe’s biggest and most vibrant outdoor

carnival celebrates Caribbean London over

the August bank-holiday weekend.

 Notting Hill

 Pride London

The LGBTIQ+ community

paints the town pink (and

red and yellow and…) in

this annual extravaganza.

 prideinlondon.org

 Great British

Beer Festival

This booze fest

cracks open casks

of ale from across

the world at Olympia

London exhibition

centre in the first

week of August.

 gbbf.org.uk

20

AUTUMN

OCTOBER

Average daytime max: 16°C

Days of rainfall: 15

London in

 Open House London

For one weekend in mid-September

over 800 heritage buildings, which are

normally off-limits to the public, open

their doors.

 openhouselondon.org.uk

London Film Festival

The city’s premier film

event runs for two weeks

in October, showing

more than 100 British

and international films

before their cinema

release.

 bfi.org.uk/lff

 The Mayor’s Thames Festival

This cosmopolitan festival in

September celebrating the River

Thames culminates in an

unmissable night procession.

 thamesfestivaltrust.org

 Affordable Art Fair

For four days in

March and October,

Battersea Park turns

into a giant affordable

art fair (and from May

2025 on Hampstead

Heath).

 Battersea, Wandworth

 affordableartfair.com

LONDON

PLAN

BY

SEASON

i Packing Notes

It’s the season of

layering – wear warm

clothes that can be

easily removed when

the weather fluctuates

or you go inside.

21

FROM LEFT: DAN KITWOOD/GETTY IMAGES ©, BARRY LEWIS/

GETTY IMAGES ©, PETER MACDIARMID/GETTY IMAGES ©, PHIL

SWALLOW/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, TEO73/GETTY IMAGES ©, EFGLJF

2020 BINKER GOLDING KINGS PLACE 4 BY EFG LONDON JAZZ ©

BOTTOM: SVEN HANSCHE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

NOVEMBER

Average daytime max: 13°C

Days of rainfall: 15

Average daytime max: 9°C

Days of rainfall: 17

 Lord Mayor’s Show

A procession party as

the new Lord Mayor

of the City of London

swears allegiance to

the Crown.

 lordmayorsshow.london

 Guy Fawkes Night

Fireworks light up the sky on

5 November, commemorating

Guy Fawkes’ failure to blow up

Parliament in 1605.

 London Jazz Festival

Some of the world’s

greatest jazz musicians

come to town for 10 days

in November.

 efglondonjazzfestival.org.uk

Autumn Colours

Wrap up and wander through

London’s tree-lined streets and

parks to enjoy the stunning

colours of the autumnal leaves.

LONDON

PLAN

BY

SEASON

22

WINTER

LONDON

PLAN

BY

SEASON

JANUARY

Average daytime max: 6°C

Days of rainfall: 17

London in

 Ice Skating

From mid-November to January,

open-air ice rinks pop up across the

city in exquisite locations.

Christmas Holidays

Most people stay at home

on Christmas Day, but come

Boxing Day, the winter

sales begin. Both are public

holidays.

 Christmas Tree & Lights

Festival lights in central

London get turned on and

a huge Christmas tree is

installed in Trafalgar Square.

 New Years

The countdown to

Big Ben striking

midnight is met

with fireworks from

the London Eye

and celebrated by

massive crowds.

i Packing Notes

Time for thick

sweaters, scarves,

gloves and winter

coats, maybe extra

tights or leggings too.

23

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SAMOT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, PADMAYOGINI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, TADEUSZ IBROM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

CHRISDORNEY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, JULIO ETCHART/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

BOTTOM: PAJOR PAWEL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

FEBRUARY

Average daytime max: 6°C

Days of rainfall: 19

Average daytime max: 6°C

Days of rainfall: 16

 Chinese

New Year

In late January or

early February,

Chinatown

fizzes, crackles

and pops in this

colourful Chinese

street festival.

 Chinatown

 London Art Fair

More than 130 major

galleries participate in this

contemporary art fair in

January.

 londonartfair.co.uk

 Imagine

Children’s Festival

Twelve days of world-

class children’s music

performances, literature,

belly-aching comedy and

parties every February at

the Southbank Centre.

 Waterloo

 BAFTA

The British Academy of Film &

Television Arts rolls out the red

carpet in mid-February for its

annual cinema awards.

 bafta.org

LONDON

PLAN

BY

SEASON

24

SPRING

APRIL

Average daytime max: 8°C

Days of rainfall: 16

London in

 Comic Con

Cosplay and comic fun returns

to London Olympia in 2025 with

the London Comic Con Spring

in March.

 londoncomicconspring.com

 St Patrick’s Day

Held on the Sunday closest

to 17 March, there’s a

colourful parade and lots of

Guinness is consumed.

Blooming London

London is in full bloom, so

head to the many gardens

and large parks to see it in all

its colourful glory.

 Flare

This LGBTQIA+

film festival by

the British Film

Institute has film

screenings, club

nights, talks and

events.

 bfi.org.uk/flare

LONDON

PLAN

BY

SEASON

i Packing Notes

T-shirts and light

cardigans can make

a return, but don’t

forget that brolly for

those April showers.

25

FROM LEFT: PATRICK WANG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, HOWARD CHENG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

TIM FRANCIS/GETTY IMAGES ©, MS JANE CAMPBELL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

PRETTYAWESOME/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, OLIVIER GUIBERTEAU/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BOTTOM: PAJOR PAWEL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

MAY

Average daytime max: 11°C

Days of rainfall: 16

Average daytime max: 14°C

Days of rainfall: 15

 London Marathon

Some 40,000 runners go

from Blackheath to the Mall

in one of the world’s biggest

road races.

 tcslondonmarathon.com

Oxbridge Boat Race

Crowds line the banks of the Thames to see

the famous universities going oar-to-oar from

Putney to Mortlake.

 theboatraces.org

 Chelsea

Flower Show

The world’s

most renowned

horticultural

event attracts

green-fingered

and flower-mad

gardeners.

 Chelsea

 rhs.org.uk

 Boisakhi Mela

Running through Brick Lane

and into neighbouring Weavers

Fields, this explosion of colour,

music and food celebrates the

Bengali New Year in May.

 East End

LONDON

PLAN

BY

SEASON

STARLINGS_IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

MANU

PADILLA/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

26

MY PERFECT DAY IN

LONDON

LONDON

A

DAY

IN

THE

CITY

By Tharik Hussain

@tharik_hussain

Left Brick Lane (p130) Right Salt beef bagel

Opposite Pastries, Borough Market (p82)

WHY I LOVE

LONDON

London is less a

city and more a

collection of little

worlds where

you can taste or

glimpse almost

every corner of

the globe.

Start by taking in the latest exhibit at

the Whitechapel Art Gallery before wandering

through edgy Brick Lane. Stop and admire the

stunning mural at the entrance and then grab

a spicy, light lunch at Graam Bangla. Snap the

country’s trendiest minaret when you visit the

Lane’s famous mosque, before spending the

afternoon searching for a boutique gift or a

vintage bargain in shops like Beyond Retro. And

don’t leave without devouring a delicious salt

beef bagel from the Beigel Bake.

ARTY, EDGY, ETHNIC QUARTERS

KIRILL LIVSHITSKIY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

27

LONDON

A

DAY

IN

THE

CITY

By Demi Perera

@girl_

travelsworld

By Hannah Ajala

@hannah_ajala

 BEST OF

SOUTH BANK

Borough Market

For coffee and

freshly baked

pastries.

The Market

Porter Pub For a

steak and ale pie

with gravy and

mash for lunch;

inside Borough

Market.

South Bank For

a crisp walk and

people-watching.

WHY I LOVE

LONDON

I love London for

making me feel

closer to all the

countries I’ve

explored. I love

London because

it will always be

home.

Wake up at Shangri-La

The Shard then head for a

swim in the 52nd-floor Sky

Pool. I’d spend most of my

morning here. For lunch I’d

take a stroll down to Borough

Market and wander around

the stalls trying the different

artisanal food vendors, then

take in the sights along

the South Bank until late

afternoon. Walk past Tate

Modern, the OXO Tower and

the pebbly Thames Beach.

Keep heading towards the

National Theatre and all the

way to the London Eye – it’s a

magnificent walk!

It would be a spring or summer late

afternoon. I would rent a nearby bicycle, ride

around my favourite neighbourhoods and make

pitstops for street food and iced coffee. Then I’d

chill out at the greenest park I came across. It’s

the little things that make me appreciate and

love my loud but mostly lovely London town.

My outlook on life was shaped by the London

culture I was born into and grew up in.

BREAKFAST IN THE CLOUDS. DINNER ON THE GROUND

CYCLING, PARKS & STREET FOOD

ELENA

ROSTUNOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

SETBIS/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

28

 WHY I LOVE

LONDON

I feel most

alive here: the

architecture and

the charming

parks, the

creative scene,

the remarkable

diversity. London

is not perfect –

prices and moody

weather being

the main reality

checks – but it’s

perfect for me.

Above St Martin's

Ln Right Oblix, The

Shard

Start at South Bank with an

architecture tour of the National

Theatre, one of London’s brutalist

landmarks. From London Eye Pier,

take a scenic River Thames cruise

and admire the city’s bridges and

landmarks. Hop off at Tower Pier

and meander through the City of

London for futuristic glass skyscrapers

alongside Roman ruins and medieval-

era churches. End the day with sunset

drinks at Oblix – located inside The

Shard, Western Europe’s tallest building

– where London’s inimitable skyline is

laid bare before you.

RIVERFRONT SIGHTS & ARCHITECTURAL GEMS

By Travis Levius

@misterlevius

ELENA

ROSTUNOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

DAVID

COTSWORTH/IMAGE,

SUPPLIED

BY

QIN

XIE

©

29

LONDON

A

DAY

IN

THE

CITY

 BEST

RESTAURANTS

Noble Rot (51

Lamb’s Conduit

St) Great food

and excellent

wines.

Bancone (39

William IV St) For

serious pasta

aficionados.

A Wong (70

Wilton Rd)

Re-imagining

Chinese food.

Brat (4Redchurch

St) Get the burnt

cheesecake.

Fuel up with a decadent

City Boy breakfast at Fox &

Anchor, or opt for St John’s

cult-status bacon sandwich. For

a deliciously eclectic street-

food lunch, migrate east to

Old Spitalfields Market where

moreish shrimp burgers and

silky hand-pulled noodles

await. Now, amble west. Pick

between coffee at HR Higgins’

basement cafe or Selfridges’

rooftop venue for sundowners.

Dinner has to be in Chinatown,

with Gerrard’s Corner a firm

favourite. Finish with a tipple

at the Experimental Cocktail

Club.

MORNING TO NIGHT RESTAURANT & BAR-HOPPING

By Qin Xie

@qinxiesays

Left AWong

Bottom Old

Spitalfields Market

(p116)

2

No Time

for Tea

Once a proud nation

of tea drinkers, the

impact of coffee-loving

immigrant communities

from the Middle East,

North Africa and the

Mediterranean means

you should no longer

ask a Londoner if they

want to go for a cup

of tea – these days

it’s a skinny flat white

or, if they’re a real

connoisseur, a cortado.

Things to Know About

INSIDER TIPS TO HIT THE GROUND RUNNING

7

1

The Arts for Free

No other city in the world offers as much world-

class culture for free as London. Here are just some of the

internationally renowned institutes that charge nothing

to enjoy their collections: The V&A, the National Portrait

Gallery, the Tate Modern, the Tate Britain, Museum of

London, Natural History Museum, Royal Academy of Arts,

Science Museum and the British Museum.

3

Me, Myself

& Eye

Londoners won’t talk to

you or make eye contact

on public transport. If

they do, they’re tourists,

drunk or both.

4

Rainbows

It rains a lot in

London, so while this means

you get to (briefly) see

more rainbows than in most

capital cities, don’t leave

home without an umbrella

or a pack-away rain jacket.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ANNA MINKINA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, DUCU59US/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

ALONA SAVCHUK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, (ARTUR KUTSKYI)/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

BIBADASH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, FOURLEAFLOVER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

LONDON LOCAL

TIPS

30

LONDON

31

LONDON

LOCAL

TIPS

5

Day of Rest

Unusually for a

modern metropolis, the

tradition of Sunday being

the ‘day of rest’ is still

observed across London.

Don’t be surprised if a street

heaving with people and

businesses on a Saturday

appears deserted the next

day. The way around this

is to seek out the city’s

numerous Sunday markets.

7

Multilingual London

Just because this is the capital

of England does not mean everyone

here speaks English – far from it. This

was also once the capital of a vast

Empire so expect to hear anything

up to 300 languages (according

to estimates) being spoken

around London, from

Swahili to German.

6

London Lingo

Here are some phrases that will come in handy:

’Ave a butchers - Have a look.

’Aving a bubble - Having a laugh.

Bloody… - An intensifier added to a word for effect

(‘bloody hell!’; ‘bloody marvellous!’).

Hammering it down - It rains a lot and Londoners have

loads of ways to describe rain. To ‘hammer it down’

means there’s a deluge of rainfall.

Old Bill - Nope, he’s not an elderly man named William;

this is simply the police.

Fam - Short for ‘family’ and popular with young

Londoners; it can be used to refer to anyone and

everyone (‘listen fam!’).

A score - Not the football result but a £20 note, as in

‘that’s a score’ when relaying the price of something.

Sarf or Noorf - Used to refer to London either side of

the River Thames (‘I’m from sarf London’ or ‘I live in

noorf London’).

Get lost! - Go away.

Have a good un - Have a good day.

32

LONDON GET

INSPIRED

t

LISTEN

R

READ

London Parks

(Hunter Davies;

2021) The beauty,

history and heritage

of London’s parks

through the eyes of

a Londoner.

London: A

Biography (Peter

Ackroyd; 2000)

Still very much the

authoritative text

on the history of

London.

London: Immigrant

City (Nazneen Khan-

Østrem; 2019)An

immigrant’s view of

London by someone

who grew up in three

different countries.

White Teeth (Zadie

Smith; 2000)

The multi-award-

winning modern

classic novel set in

London and about

multicultural Britain.

Londonist Out

Loud (Londonist)

Great podcast about

London covering

everything from

iconic buildings to

black cabs.

London Undone

(London Undone)

Podcast about

the more unusual

sites in and around

London.

19 (Adele; 2008)

The multi-award-

winning debut

album by the

woman from

Tottenham.

The Return of the

Space Cowboy

(Jamiroquai; 1994)

Best-selling funk

album of all time

by the pioneering

London band.

Read, Listen,

Watch & Follow

Gang Signs & Prayer

(Stormzy; 2019; pictured) The first Grime

album to reach No 1 in the UK charts by

the current king of the genre.

DOMINIC

LIPINSKI

-

PA

IMAGES/GETTY

IMAGES

©

33

LONDON GET

INSPIRED

V

WATCH

Rocks (2020) A love letter to east London

from its rooftops through the eyes of local

teens.

Top Boy (2011) Gritty crime drama series

about life on inner London housing estates.

Withnail and I (1987; pictured top) Two

down-and-out actors escape ’60s Camden

Town for the British countryside.

Performance (1970) Mick Jagger stars in

this ultimate London movie about rock stars

and crooks.

Attack The Block (2011; pictured bottom)

Aliens invade Brixton; they just weren’t

ready for the mouthy youths living there.

ALLSTAR

PICTURE

LIBRARY

LTD./

ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

MOVIESTORE

COLLECTION

LTD/

ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

T

FOLLOW

(@timeoutlondon)

The Time Out London

Instagram account.

Time Out London

Sate your

London

dreaming with

a virtual vacation

(@standardnews)

News from the

popular London daily

on X (Twitter).

Standard News

(visitlondon.com)

Information on special

events, tours, theatre

and more.

Visit London

(essentialldn.com) A

blog about London’s

best cultural and

historical sites.

Essential London

(@tfl) Transport

updates and a

whole lot of fun on X

(Twitter).

Transport for London

THE WEST END

Experience

the West End

online

ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | HISTORY

 Trip Builder (p36)

 Take in Culture at the

Opera (p38)

 The Queen’s Diamond

Jubilee Galleries (p40)

 Catch a Show at Drury

Lane (p42)

 Buckingham Palace

for a Day (p44)

 Walk the Historic West

End (p46)

 Spend a Night in Soho

(p48)

 London’s Evolving

Chinatown Food Scene

(p52)

 Listings (p54)

G

Hyde

Park

B

ak

er

St

Ba

ys

wa

ter

Rd

Ox

for

d

St

Knightsbridge

W

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C H E L S E A

M A Y F A I R

M A R Y L E B O N E

FROM LEFT: EWELINA W/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, ANSHARPHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PREVIOUS SPREAD: GOWITHSTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Visit Buckingham Palace,

the royal residency, for

afternoon tea in the garden

surrounded by nature.

Ġ 12 min walk from Hyde Park

As a captivating hub known for

its trendy and vibrant atmosphere, the

West End is a district with myriad

offerings. It is home to nine areas, each

with its own distinctive character,

housing many of London’s most iconic

sights, world-class shopping,

entertainment quarter and a diverse

dining scene.

Neighbourhood Notes

Best for Culture, history, nightlife, gastronomy and

shopping.

Transport Central Line, plus Victoria, Northern,

Piccadilly, Bakerloo, Jubilee, Circle & District Lines.

Getting around By Tube, bike and on foot.

Tip The West End is always busy. Visit both in the

day and the night to really get to know the area.

THE WEST

END

Trip Builder

Browse luxury brands at the

covered Burlington Arcade,

Britain’s first department store.

Ġ 7 min walk from Piccadilly

Circus Station

Go store-hopping on popular

Oxford Street until you have found

everything your heart desires.

Ġ 12 min walk from Piccadilly Circus

THE

WEST

END BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

36

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Tha

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Park

Trafalgar Sq

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S O U T H

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W H I T E H A L L

F I T Z R O V I A

Westminster

Bridge

Golden

Jubilee

Bridges

e

0

1 km

0

0.5 miles

Escape all the noise by visiting

St James’s Park, situated in

the heart of the city.

Ġ 10 min walk from Buckingham

Palace

Bar, club or restaurant hop

around Soho, the heart

of London’s LGBTIQ+

community.

Ġ 9 min walk from Totten-

ham Court Road Station

Marvel at the majestic Westminster

Abbey and the Queen’s Diamond

Jubilee Galleries.

Ġ 4 min walk from Westminster Station

Stop by Covent Garden for

endless shopping, wining

and dining opportunities.

Ġ 2 min walk from Covent

Garden Station

Visit Soho’s iconic Chinatown for

authentic Asian bakeries, restaurants

and beloved bubble tea cafes.

Ġ 4 min walk from Leicester Square

Station

YANG

LIU/GETTY

IMAGES

©

ROBBIE

JACK/GETTY

IMAGES

©

THE

WEST

END EXPERIENCES

38

How to

Getting here Take the

Piccadilly Underground

Line to Covent Garden;

from here it’s a two-minute

walk to Bow Street.

When to go The season

runs September to July.

Purchase tickets two

months in advance if

you are a non-member,

or look for last-minute

tickets before a show.

What to wear The dress

code at the Royal Opera

House is relaxed – as long

as your feet and torso are

covered.

Take in Culture at the

OPERA

MUSIC | OPERA | DINNER

01

The iconic Royal Opera House is a significant theatre that pays homage

to traditional opera while still allowing today’s leading composers to showcase

their work. The striking white Baroque Revival–style building, built in 1858, gives

approximately 150 performances each season, including the critically acclaimed

ballet Romeo and Juliet, one the most adored shows at the Opera House.

i

3

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0

100 m

e

Top Royal Opera House Bottom John

Tomlinson in a Royal Opera House

production of Faust

THE

WEST

END EXPERIENCES

39

Classical meets modern This celebrated performance venue

in Covent Garden was a dance hall during WWII and became

the Royal Opera House (ROH) that we know today when it

opened its doors to the public in 1946. Since then it has been

home to both the Royal Opera and the Royal Ballet. You can

watch remarkable performances of operatic classics like

Macbeth, Tosca and The Marriage of Figaro and ballets such

as Swan Lake and Giselle, as well as exciting and unexpected

contemporary productions. If you’re unsure of what to see,

consider the Royal Ballet’s production of Romeo and Juliet,

choreographed by Kenneth MacMillan; it has been a favoured

showstopper since it first arrived at the ROH in 1965, amassing

over 400 performances.

Opening to the street Significant renovations to the Royal

Opera House were completed in 2018, which included opening

the ground level to make it more inviting and attract a wider

audience. As well as ballet and opera performances, the ROH

offers the opportunity to join a dance class led by a member of

the Royal Ballet, tour the ROH building, attend behind-the-scenes

events and drop in for a lunchtime recital or performance (both

free and ticketed events) featuring performances from the

Royal Opera, the Royal Ballet, the orchestra and guest artists.

H

Drinking & Dining

at the Opera

The Royal Opera House

has 10 restaurants and

bars, each with a different

ambience and price range.

The majority of these ven-

ues are open to all, includ-

ing the Royal Opera House

Café, which is also open to

the public during the day.

The glass-vaulted dining

area in Paul Hamlyn Hall,

overlooking Covent Gar-

den with an extraordinary

U-shaped architectural

design, is breathtaking.

You can dine here without

a reservation; try special-

ities like their roast rump

of lamb with a spiced

lamb sausage or head to

the adjacent Balconies

Restaurant for a three-

course meal for £90 or

two courses for £70.

LEON

NEAL/GETTY

IMAGES

©

JOHN

STILLWELL

-

PA

IMAGES/GETTY

IMAGES

©

THE

WEST

END EXPERIENCES

40

How to

Getting here Take the

Circle, District or Jubilee

Underground Line to

Westminster Station.

When to go Avoid the

crowds by visiting early in

the morning or late in the

evening. Daily services at

Westminster Abbey are

open to the public.

The cost You can only

purchase the Queen’s

Diamond Jubilee Galleries

ticket (£5) in combination

with admission to

Westminster Abbey (£29).

The Queen’s Diamond

JUBILEE GALLERIES

ROYALTY | GALLERY | HISTORY

02

Westminster Abbey is a coronation church with over 1000 years of history,

as well as a royal resting place of kings, queens and prominent figures. In 2018

the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries were opened above the abbey’s floor in

the medieval triforium, offering visitors an exclusive look at the interior and the

abbey’s fascinating collection of artefacts, many of them never before displayed.

i

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Houses of

Parliament

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Westminster

Abbey

e

0

200 m

0

0.1 miles

Top Eighteenth-century funeral

effigies of Catherine Sheffield, Duchess

of Buckingham, and son Robert

Bottom Marriage licence of Prince

William and Kate Middleton

THE

WEST

END EXPERIENCES

41

Open to the public The opening of the Queen’s Diamond

Jubilee Galleries in 2018 presented a surprising and new

perspective of the iconic attraction. Located within the 13th-

century triforium, 16m above The abbey’s floor, this is the

first time in the abbey’s long history that this area, previously

used for storage, has been open to the public. The unique

attic space is accessed via the 30m-tall star-shaped Weston

Tower (housing both stairs and lift), which opened along with

galleries and is the first major addition to the abbey since 1745.

As you ascend the stairs, admire views of the abbey’s medieval

Chapter House and the Palace of Westminster.

The collection The collection, which spans the abbey’s 1000-

year history, is broken into four key areas: Building the Abbey;

Worship and Daily Life; the Abbey and the Monarchy; and the

Abbey and National Memory. Among the 300 exhibits here,

you will see 21 wonderfully preserved medieval funeral effigies,

including the effigy head of Henry VII, Mary II’s coronation

chair, the royal marriage licence of Prince William and Kate

Middleton, and Henry V’s battle gear, alongside art, sculp-

tures and manuscripts from the abbey’s library and archive

collection. As you move around the neutral-coloured space

under ancient oak beams, the bright stained-glass windows of

the abbey create a beautifully serene atmosphere, with light

illuminating the wooden floor.

q

Westminster

Abbey

Founded by Benedic-

tine monks in 960 CE,

Westminster Abbey is well

known as a burial site for

royalty and prominent

figures (Sir Isaac Newton

and 30 kings and queens

among them) and for

hosting royal weddings

(16 in total), including the

wedding of Prince William

and Kate Middleton in

2011.‘People are naturally

drawn to the tombs of the

royals,’says Guy Fairbank,

‘but there are also hidden

delights to be seen.’Pass

the Chapter House until

you come to a thick oak

door. Step inside and

gaze over remnants of the

original Norman abbey,

with its stout, rounded

columns, plain altar and

medieval tiles.

Guy Fairbank,

London Blue

Badge Guide

at Urban

Saunters, @guyfairbank

42

Top Production of 42nd Street,

Theatre Royal Drury Lane

Bottom Exterior, Theatre Royal

Drury Lane

THE

WEST

END EXPERIENCES

ĩ

Royal

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Theatre Royal

Drury Lane

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100 m

After nearly 400 years, the

Theatre Royal Drury Lane continues

to tell a story through the spectacular

shows it stages in the heart of the

West End. The historic landmark has

earned its accolade with the original

building dating back to 1663, making

it the oldest theatre in use in London.

The auditorium remains a momentous

place for modern and classic

performances.

Extraordinary performances

Celebrated composer

Andrew Lloyd Webber, the

mastermind behind world-

renowned productions such

as Phantom of the Opera

and Cats, purchased the

Theatre Royal Drury in 2004

and it is today managed by

his company LW Theatres.

A significant restoration

project took place between

2019 and 2021, bringing the

theatre into the modern day,

with improvements made to

the auditorium and building

accessibility and the addition

of several sleek drinking

and dining venues, while

reviving many of the theatre’s

How to

Getting here Take the Piccadilly Underground Line

to Covent Garden; from here it’s a four-minute walk

on the main streets to Theatre Royal Drury Lane.

When to go The theatre is open every day, but it is

best to purchase tickets early.

Good to know One of the theatre’s entrances has

step-free access; wheelchair-friendly spaces are

present on all floors, excluding the balcony.

Catch a Show at

DRURY LANE

THEATRE | MUSICAL | SHOWS

03

43

THE

WEST

END EXPERIENCES

GAVIN

RODGERS/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

DAVID

WILLIAMS/GETTY

IMAGES

©

elegant original features. The

grand stage, which has seen

countless classic musical

productions including My

Fair Lady and 42nd Street, is

today as impressive as ever

and ready to usher in a new

era with immersive shows

such as Frozen the Musical.

An enchanting restaurant

Next door to the theatre is

The Garden, an intimate

venue tucked away from the

street. Part of LW Theatres,

the contemporary cafe and

bar is a meeting point for

those looking to combine

their love for culture, enter-

tainment and gastronomy.

Spend an hour or two at

the leafy venue, sipping a

cocktail or a specialty coffee,

or sampling cheese served

on the theatre’s old stage

boards or desserts created

by renowned London baker

Lily Vanilli. Both theatre-

goers and the general public

are welcome.

a

A Fascinating

History

Originally founded in 1663,

the Theatre Royal Drury Lane

is the oldest theatre site in

London. The building has

gone through various chang-

es and restorations over

the years; today’s structure

dates back to 1812 and is the

fourth theatre to be built on

this site.

44

Top Buckingham Palace Garden

Bottom Ballroom

THE

WEST

END EXPERIENCES

Q

Buckingham

Palace

Gardens

St James's

Park

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Park

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Buckingham

Palace

e

0

200 m

0

0.1 miles

Home to King Charles III,

Buckingham Palace – a former

townhouse built in 1703 – has attained

iconic status worldwide and attracts

millions of visitors each year. It is one of

the few working royal palaces remaining

in the world today. Despite its exclusivity,

visitors can tour the palace in the

summer months and enjoy an afternoon

tea in the private garden.

A royal experience Walking

through the vividly coloured

State Rooms on a guided tour

allows visitors a glimpse into

an illustrious world. There

are more than 775 rooms

at Buckingham Palace, 19

of which are State Rooms.

These opulent rooms were

designed for receiving

guests, and official and

ceremonial occasions, and are

filled with sculptures, furniture

and art from the Royal Collec-

tion. On the tour you will see

the ballroom, throne room,

white drawing room and music

room, among others.

How to

Getting here Take the Victoria or Piccadilly Under-

ground Line to Victoria, Green Park or Hyde Park.

Avoid driving as parking is limited and expensive.

When to go Buckingham Palace can be visited by

the public between July and September, when the

King is not in residence. The Changing of the Guard

ceremony takes place throughout the year.

The cost Prices for hot beverages from the garden

cafe, including espresso, start at £2.40. Pair your

drink with a sweet treat like carrot cake, or opt for

a wrap or sandwich.

BUCKINGHAM

Palace for a Day

ROYALTY | AFTERNOON TEA | PALACE

04

45

THE

WEST

END EXPERIENCES

KIRSTY

O’CONNOR

-

PA

IMAGES/GETTY

IMAGES

©

PETER

MACDIARMID/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

Tea in the garden Enjoying

afternoon tea is a quintes-

sential British custom and

cultural norm. After the

State Rooms guided tour,

head to Buckingham Palace

Garden and find a spot on

the well-maintained grass,

preferably with a view that

overlooks the 19th-

century lake, for a picnic

of afternoon tea. Nibble on

a selection of sandwiches,

cakes and scones as you take

in the surprisingly tranquil

ambience in the centre of

London (this is London’s

biggest private back garden,

after all). Afterwards, explore

the royal grounds – the

39-acre garden was built to

impress – and the never-

ending corners at your own

pace before exiting one

of Britain’s most popular

attractions.

c The Palace Flags

When the Royal Standard

flies atop Buckingham

Palace, it signifies that the

King is in London. But when

the Union Flag is present, it

means he’s out.

 Justin Roxburgh, Blue

Badge Tourist Guide,

@just_in_london_tours

THE

WEST

END EXPERIENCES

46

Walk the Historic

WEST END

HISTORY | WALKING | MONUMENTS

One of the best ways to uncover the West End is by foot or bike. With

a surplus of famous attractions and historical monuments, it is chock-full of

offerings. Soak up the city’s deep and complex history and learn about how each

sight became significant and a representation of Britain.

05

How to

Getting there Catch the Bakerloo or Northern Underground Lines to Charing

Cross Station; from here it’s a two-minute walk to the square.

When to go The area tends to be busy, particularly in the summer and at the

weekend. Take the main roads to spot all the sights.

Tip Make sure you wear comfortable shoes. While the walk is straightforward

and short, you might end up strolling for longer than expected.

Shabby Flanders, CEO of Urban Saunters in London,

@urbansaunter

e

Ancient

London

Immerse yourself in

over 1000 years of

history as you stroll

around the West End

area, learning about

the city’s political

history and the

prominent figures

who have shaped

the nation. Stop

by cultural sights

such as the 1940s

Regency Cafe, which

embodies London’s

‘caff culture’and

serves a traditional

English fry-up.

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FROM LEFT: PATRYKKOSMIDER/SHUTTERSTOCK©, VALDIS SKUDRE/SHUTTERSTOCK©

The 19th-century Trafalgar Square

is a key landmark and popular meeting

point circled by art galleries, museums,

restaurants and entertainment.

01

At 135m tall, the London Eye

on the other side of the Thames

offers unbeatable panoramic views

on 30-minute rides above London.

05

If you’re up for it,

why not try and climb

all 334 steps of the

spiral stairway up to

the belfry level inside

the iconic Big Ben.

04

Visit the ornate Houses of

Parliament on the banks of the

Thames to attend live debates and

fascinating committee hearings.

03

Admiralty Arch is a

national treasure built

in 1901 to serve as a

ceremonial passage for

events, including royal

weddings.

02

THE

WEST

END EXPERIENCES

48

NIGHTLIFE | RESTAURANTS | LGBTIQ+

06

A trip to London isn’t

complete without a visit to Soho, a

small neighbourhood with a larger

than life atmosphere. The vibrant

area, known for its boisterous

bohemian vibe, is home to some

of the city’s most popular bars and

restaurants and is a prominent

hub for the LGBTIQ+ community.

Spend a Night

IN SOHO

ANDY

SUTHERLAND/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

s

A Celebrated

Venue

In the middle of Old

Compton St is She Soho –

London’s first female only

LGBTIQ+ venue. The small,

crowded space is a safe spot

for queer women, set in a

basement-style setting. DJs

are always present and ready

to bring the excitement up

at this lively modern bar and

nightclub.

NIGEL

GRAVER/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

ALENA

VEASEY/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

THE

WEST

END EXPERIENCES

49

Top left Dog and Duck Bottom left Neon

signage Above right Zebrano

Bars & Clubs

What Soho lacks in size, it makes up for with

its wide range of entertainment. Nearly every

narrow street in this heaving, dynamic area

is home to bars, nightclubs and pubs that

quickly get filled with people from all walks

of life. Britain’s pub culture has evolved

through the years and is considered a key

part of a community where many locals still

love to gather, hence why pubs like the Dog

and Duck are often crowded and spilling out

on to the streets outside. Immerse yourself

in the pub culture by socialising with locals

– chances are they are regulars. Head over

to neon-lit Zebrano for a dance, drinks and

excellent pizza, or visit Salsa Soho to listen

to salsa, bachata, merengue and reggaeton.

If you’re into cocktails, enter Louche Soho,

a late-night raucous cocktail bar for regular

How to

Getting here Take

the Victoria Under-

ground Line to Oxford

Circus, from where

you can walk to Soho.

Alternatively, take the

Central or Northern

Underground Line to

Tottenham Court Road

and walk from there.

When to go While the

area is always busy,

weekends tend to get

packed with energetic

party people and tour-

ists roaming around.

The cost Drinks

are generally more

expensive in central

London. But some of

the LGBTIQ+ bars offer

cheaper drinks.

50

live Jazz and vinyl DJ sets. Some bars, such

as Simmons Bar, have well-appreciated

happy hours, offering 2-for-1 on all cocktails,

including mojitos.

Essential Dining

Experiencing a culinary craving in Soho is not

necessarily a bad thing – the area’s dining

scene reflects London’s diverse culture. The

diminutive size of 10 Greek Street, a neigh-

bourhood favourite, provides an opportunity

to dine in an intimate setting in an otherwise

lively area. If you are craving Mexican food,

your go-to place is Temper, a barbecue

and steakhouse with an impressive drinks

menu and the most delicious fish tacos. For

Japanese, head to Shack-Fuyu Soho to try

the pulled beef and mushroom bao buns and

their famous French toast pudding served

with matcha ice cream – it’s meant to be

the best in London! Those looking for high-

end dining will not be disappointed at the

upscale Bob Bob Ricard. This luxury French

ĉ A Colourful World

The Yard Bar You will find

lots of space to mingle in

this roomy courtyard and

loft bar. An abundance

of flowers and wooden

furnishings make this a

relaxing place.

Comptons of Soho This

Victorian-style pub has

knocked around since the

1890s, evoking Soho’s

covert queer past. Now with

some modern renovations,

it’s a must for a pint with a

side of history.

G-A-Y It’s campy, it’s‘basic’,

but cynics always change

their tune after a few

happy-hour specials at this

iconic night-out starter.

Grab a wristband outside

for free entry to G-A-Y Late

or Heaven to keep the party

going.

Andrew

Headspeath,

editor & member

of the LGBTIQ+

community

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Dog &

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Old Compton Street

Temper

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Salsa

Soho

The Vault

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She Soho

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RIGHT:

CKTRAVELS.COM/SHUTTERSTOCK

©;

LEFT:

BLOOMBERG/GETTY

IMAGES

©

THE

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Left Bob Bob Ricard Right Old

Compton Street

51

establishment has a menu offering Jersey oysters

and Siberian caviar paired with champagne. Expe-

rience the flavours of Nigeria at Ikoyi, a Michelin-

star restaurant that blends West African tastes

with British micro-seasonality.

London’s LGBTIQ+ Heart

Bright neon-coloured signs, outrageous attire and

an array of pride flags are just a few of the com-

mon sights around London’s iconic Old Compton

Street, famous for being an important LGBTIQ+

centre. Despite being a short road, it’s home to

London’s best known and most popular gay bars

and clubs. Throughout the week, but especially

at weekends, it attracts large crowds that include

mostly regulars but also a generous sprinkling of

tourists. With so many venues to visit, including

G-A-Y, London’s longest-running gay nightclub,

and the historic gay pub of yesteryear Comptons

of Soho, you can easily spend the night hopping

from one raucous bar to another. Just be sure to

arrive at your first destination before midnight;

some venues start refusing entrance around

that time as they might have reached maximum

capacity.

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JACOBS/SHUTTERSTOCK

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52

Left Chinatown Centre Laksa medan

Right Cafe TPT

THE

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London’s

Evolving

Chinatown

Food Scene

MAKING WAY FOR

CONTEMPORARY

DINING CONCEPTS

The number of

Cantonese restaurants

in Soho’s Chinatown

is dwindling, making

way for more specialist,

regional Chinese and

pan-Asian businesses

that appeal to a

younger demographic.

But as chains move in,

have the traditional

family-run businesses

that are the area’s

lifeblood had their day?

By Angela Hui

Angela is author of the acclaimed best-

seller Takeaway and a double-award

winning freelance writer and editor

covering lifestyle, food and travel.

@angelahuii

With its grand tile-roofed, red-pillared gates, paper lanterns

criss-crossing the streets and intriguing aromas emanating

from bakeries, restaurants and butchers, it’s impossible to

miss London’s Chinatown. The streets between Leicester

Square and Piccadilly Circus have been a hub for Chinese

businesses in London since the 1960s. But Chinatown hasn’t

always had a W1 postcode. London’s original Chinatown

started life in Limehouse, East London, catering to Chinese

sailors in the Georgian docklands. After the bombing of the

area during WWII, many Chinese immigrants who lived near

the docks were forced to resettle across town where they

opened up shop in the then-seedy area of Soho.

Today, in the face of rising rents, shifts in immigration

patterns, customers’ changing tastes and a global pan-

demic, London’s Chinatown is going through a constant

metamorphosis. What was once a predominantly Canton-

ese neighbourhood of restaurants and lunch spots has

diversified to create a new wave of street food, takeaway

and dessert shops that are more cost-effective. But many

of these establishments don’t offer the slower sit-down

experience that brings families and friends together to a

table to converse and bond, which was one of the many

things that made Chinatown so special.

Welcome to Snacktown

For a long time, restaurants in London’s Chinatown offered

western diners a taste of the East – albeit a somewhat dilut-

ed version. Old-school banquet hall restaurants and dim sum

parlours such as Golden Phoenix, Joy King Lau and Gold-

en Dragon, which served staples like sweet and sour pork

and aromatic crispy duck, were what diners came to know

PEDRO

EMANUEL

PEREIRA/SHUTTERSTOCK

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ARIYANI

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53

While traditional

restaurants do remain,

they coexist with

contemporary concepts

that appeal more to

younger affluent diners.

and expect in the area. Today the diversity and breadth of China

and its cuisine, as well as its Southeast Asian neighbours, is final-

ly being reflected on menus. Within an acre, it’s now possible to

feast on Malaysian curry laksa at C&R Cafe, Real Beijing Food

House’s rou jia mo flatbreads from Xi’an, Filipino ube bilog from

Mamasons, as well as a simple Cantonese egg fried rice at Cafe

TPT, one of the last remaining

Hong Kong dai pai dongs.

While traditional restaurants

do remain, they coexist with

contemporary concepts –

Instagram-friendly waffles

from Hong Kong, fluffy

Japanese soufflé and Taiwan-

ese gold-leaf black-sugar

bubble tea – that appeal more

to younger affluent diners.

Looking to the Future

As Chinatown restaurants fight to get customers through the

door, the area is having something of an identity crisis, slowly

transforming into a replica of what can be seen in many of

Mainland China’s urban centres: a soulless pan-Asian Disney-

land of chains, brands and snacks that offer a bit of everything

from everywhere and appeal to all. Looking into the future, it

might not be about the survival of the fittest or even reviving

old restaurants, but more about reminding Londoners and vis-

itors to the city why Chinatown has always been worth visiting:

the discovery of new flavours and cuisines, coming together

with family and friends over a meal, and a shared connection

to the identity of Britain itself.

b

Chinatown’s

Changing Face

Even before the global

COVID-19 pandemic hit in

2020, many Chinatown busi-

nesses were already under

pressure due to sky-high

commercial rents. Traditional,

family-run businesses that

rely on cash flow to survive,

or that can’t compete with

innovative new-comers to

the area, are hanging on by

a thread or have been edged

out by big-money internation-

al players. Some businesses

like the iconic Cantonese

roast meat caff Hung’s have

closed for good, while others

have relocated outside of

Zone 1.‘Mini Chinatowns’can

now be found in King’s Cross,

Angel, Holborn, Aldgate, Lam-

beth and Victoria – meaning

the same diners who once

travelled specifically to Soho

to eat Chinese food can now

find it on their doorstep.

ħ Tea, Coffee & Cake

Söderberg

££

A two-storey Swedish bakery with a minimalist

Swedish aesthetic. Stop by for freshly baked

cinnamon buns, open sandwiches, waffles,

pastries or the famous Swedish meatballs.

Chez Antoinette

£

A cheerful French restaurant on the ground

floor of the Covent Garden Market Building

with an amazing menu, including sweet

tartines, cheeseboards and a rich cured ham

salad.

Chatime

£

This fun Taiwanese cafe serves authentic

bubble tea to its many dedicated fans. Try the

Brown Sugar Pearls Milk Tea and Oolong Milk

Tea, both signature beverages.

Ħ Cocktails & Beers

Aqua Nueva

A stylish top-floor contemporary restaurant

specialising in Spanish cuisine with an equally

impressive terrace bar overlooking central

London. Walk-ins are welcome, but best to

arrive early for guaranteed entry.

The Rooftop

You can find cheaper drinks elsewhere but

nothing beats the view from the Rooftop.

Gaze upon picture-perfect views of London’s

famous skyline, preferably at sunset, while

sipping on a drink.

Opium

An intimate cocktail bar in Chinatown that trans-

ports you to 1920s Shanghai. Perfectly hidden

behind a bright jade door, there are several dimly

lit seating areas across the two floors.

The Harp

An award-winning pub in Trafalgar Square

near the National Gallery that is famous for

its welcoming atmosphere, great service and

a large selection of beers. Suitable for avid

beer lovers.

Shochu Lounge

A contemporary rustic-chic basement bar

celebrating Japanese culture in the centre

of Fitzrovia. Cherry blossom trees illuminate

the sophisticated space, creating a laidback

atmosphere.

š Green Spaces

Regent’s Park

One of the biggest parks in London, Regent’s

Park is a beautiful space if you want to escape

the city and lounge in the park.

St James’s Park

St James’s Park is a stunning 23-hectare park

and an ideal place to find stunning photography

locations near St James’s Park Lake or if

you’re looking for a bit of tranquillity.

Victoria Tower Gardens

A small green space near some of London’s his-

toric sites, including the Houses of Parliament,

Big Ben and Westminster Abbey. Stop by to

enjoy the surroundings on a warm summer day.

St James's Park

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Listings

BEST OF THE REST

54

Scan to find more things to

do in the West End online

r Retail Therapy

Burlington Arcade

Opened in 1819, this historic covered shop-

ping arcade is hailed as the first department

store in Britain. Home to ultra- luxurious

brands, you can expect to find exclusive

fashion pieces.

Oxford Street

The world’s biggest high street with over 300

stores dotted from Tottenham Court Road to

Marble Arch Station. You can find just about

anything, from fashion to electronics.

Liberty

A high-end department store set in a

Tudor-revival building near Carnaby Street.

Expect to find luxury goods from some of the

world’s biggest brands across six floors.

Carnaby Street

Historic Carnaby Street is a hot spot. It’s

home to many shops, including independent

clothing stores and popular chain stores, as

well as Kingly Court, a three-storey food court

with world cuisines.

H International Dining

Sketch

£££

The quirky gastro-brasserie is known for

its fun decor and enchanted atmosphere.

Rooms are fuelled by art, with the main room

transforming into a vibrant cocktail lounge in

the evening.

Gaucho

£££

This Argentinian steakhouse is often praised

for serving the best steak in London. The criti-

cally acclaimed chain has restaurants around

town, but the townhouse Piccadilly branch is

the flagship venue.

Akoko

£££

A culinary experience that showcases the

best of West African cuisine via Nigeria in the

heart of London. The charming restaurant

serves mouth-watering dishes in a charming

venue in Fitzrovia.

Blacklock

££

A lively steakhouse serving juicy steaks and

burgers in a basement-style former brothel in

the heart of Soho.

Brasserie Zédel

££

Experience a piece of France at Zédel, an

elegant brasserie that pays homage to 1930s

Paris and is known for its good-value set

menu of traditional French cuisine.

Imperial China

££

One of the largest Cantonese restaurants in

Chinatown, Imperial China is set over two

floors and has been serving traditional

Chinese dishes and dim sum since 1993.

Oxford Circus

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BARTON/SHUTTERSTOCK

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CITY OF

LONDON

HISTORY | ARCHITECTURE | GARDENS

 Trip Builder (p58)

 Explore the London

of the Romans (p60)

 Tour the Soaring

High-Rises (p62)

 London’s Hidden

Skyscrapers (p64)

 Relax in Hidden

Gardens (p66)

 Insider’s Tower of

London (p68)

 Imbibe on a Historic

Pub Crawl (p70)

 City of London in

TV & Films (p72)

 Listings (p74)

Ņ

Y

Inner

Temple

Gardens

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S O U T H

B A N K

C L E R K E N W E L L

T E M P L E

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Visit St Bride’s Church

to see its famed steeple

then go below ground for

its crypt and museum.

Ġ 2 min walk from City

Thameslink Station

The City of London’s key

attraction is its fascinating history and

unusual architecture. Here glass

skyscrapers offer a futuristic backdrop

to centuries-old ruins. Delve a little

deeper and you’ll find hidden gardens,

gorgeous churches and a wealth of

public art in this very walkable

neighbourhood, with some great pubs

to boot.

Neighbourhood Notes

Best for Architecture and history.

Transport Central, District, Circle and Northern Lines

(also Metropolitan, Waterloo & City, Hammersmith

& City, DLR, Thames Clippers).

Getting around It’s always faster on foot.

Tip Plan a weekend visit if you want to avoid the

crowds but check bars and restaurants are open

before you go.

CITY OF

LONDON

Trip Builder

Make your own gin at the

City of London Distillery &

Bar – or simply enjoy a G&T.

Ġ 2 min walk from City

Thameslink Station

FROM LEFT: ANDREW THOMAS/GETTY IMAGES ©,

MATTHEW CHATTLE/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

PREVIOUS SPREAD: ANDRAS POLONYI/GETTY IMAGES ©

58

CITY

OF

LONDON BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

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S P I T A L F I E L D S

C I T Y O F

L O N D O N

London

Bridge

S O U T H W A R K

Millennium

Bridge

ĥ

Soak up the history at

the Tower of London

with a tour guided led

by Beefeaters.

Ġ 5 min walk from

Tower Hill Station

From 2026, explore

London’s history

through the ages

via the interactive

displays at the new

London Museum.

Ġ 5 min walk from

Barbican Station

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Get snapping at Tower Bridge,

easily one of the most famous

filming locations in London.

Ġ 10 min walk from Tower Hill

Station

Lose yourself in the maze

of Brutalist architecture

and the surprisingly lovely

garden of the Barbican.

Ġ 6 min walk from

Barbican Station

Grab a cocktail and

see London from the

lush, micro-forest of

Sky Garden.

Ġ 3 min walk from

Monument Station

Try your hand at competitive

axe throwing – think next-level

darts – at Axeperience.

Ġ 3 min walk from Tower

Gateway Station

DAVID

WILLIAMS/AFP

VIA

GETTY

IMAGES

©

DANIEL

LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/GETTTY

IMAGES

©

60

CITY

OF

LONDON EXPERIENCES

How to

Getting here and

around Start from Bank/

Monument (Central,

Northern, Circle, District

and Waterloo & City

Lines) and go on foot.

When to go The Roman

Amphitheatre and

London Mithraeum

are both free and open

daily. Billingsgate Roman

House & Baths is only

open on Saturday for

guided tours; book ahead.

Tip You can trace the

Roman city of Londinium’s

outline by following the

London Wall Walk, a

21-stop self-guided tour

starting near Tower Hill

Station.

Explore the London of

THE ROMANS

SUBTERRANEAN | QUIRKY | ARCHITECTURE

07

The City of London was built on top of the Roman city of Londinium,

with the latter’s walls demarcating the boundaries of the neighbourhood you see

today. Remnants of Londinium are everywhere, but as many Roman ruins have

been incorporated into modern buildings, you’ll need to head to the basements

of towering skyscrapers to see some of the most fascinating treasures.

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Billingsgate Roman

House & Baths

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Amphitheatre

London

Mithraeum

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61

Top Guildhall Art Gallery Bottom

Roman coins, London Mithraeum

CITY

OF

LONDON EXPERIENCES

Underneath the ample art collection at the Guildhall Art Gal-

lery (Guildhall Yard) is the Roman Amphitheatre. Originally

built around 70 CE, the structure was made entirely from

timber. It was enlarged in the 2nd century CE and some of the

timber was replaced with Kentish ragstone. The portions that

remain – the entrance tunnel, east gate and arena walls – are

all from the later version; a CGI projection shows you what the

amphitheatre would have looked like.

The London Mithraeum (12 Walbrook) is the reconstructed

remains of a temple dedicated to the Iranian god Mithras,

founded around the 3rd century CE and rediscovered in 1954.

Considered by Romans to be a cult in its heyday, the temple

admitted only men. In the collection of artefacts displayed

by the entrance are two wax tablets; one details a financial

transaction – apt given the space sits underneath the offices

of Bloomberg – while the other is one of the earliest records

mentioning Londinium. The display also features an immersive

sound-and-light show every 20 minutes that re-imagines the

temple in use.

Sitting in the basement of an office building, with an uncere-

monious entrance in the back, is Billingsgate Roman House

& Baths (101 Lower Thames St). Originally built as a Roman

villa around 150 CE, the bathhouse wasn’t added until around

100 years later. Today it’s one of the best-preserved Roman

baths in the UK. See it on a guided tour.

e Roman Wall

The section of the Roman

Wall by Tower Hill Station

is the oldest in London. It’s

built in the Mediterranean

style that’s seen through-

out the Roman empire,

from Rome to Istanbul.

The design is distinctive. It

features four or five layers

of stone, followed by tiles,

and then more stone

and tiles. This layering

gives the wall some flex

so that it can withstand

earthquakes. The same

design is seen all over

the Roman world, even in

locations with zero or few

earthquakes like the UK.

The building material is

local, though – it’s Kentish

ragstone harvested from

the Medway Valley.

Tip by Dr Simon

Elliott,

archaeologist,

historian and

broadcaster,

@SimonElliott20

CITY

OF

LONDON EXPERIENCES

62

Tour the Soaring

HIGH-RISES

ARCHITECTURE | WALKING TOUR | WEEKEND

London’s skyline wouldn’t be the same without skyscrapers with endearing

names like the Gherkin and the Walkie Talkie. But they’re not just office buildings

– some are also open to the public with restaurants, bars and even gardens. This

short walk links some of the most imaginative architecture in the City where you

can do more than just look up.

08

How to

Getting there From Bank/Monument (Central, Northern, Circle, District and

Waterloo & City Lines), or Aldgate (Circle and Metropolitan Lines) if doing the

tour in reverse.

When to go Weekends, especially mornings, are quietest, while Thursday

evenings are busiest.

Tip The Walkie Talkie and the Gherkin both have a restaurant and bar at the top

with great views. Book ahead and bring ID for the Gherkin. You can also visit

Sky Garden at the Walkie Talkie for free.

Y

Barbican

Highlights

Barbican Water

Gardens Surrounded

by Barbican’s Brutalist

architecture with

sunken alcoves and

seating.

St Giles’ Cripplegate

A medieval church

that survived the

Great Fire of London

in 1666.

Barbican Highwalk

A raised pedway that

circumnavigates the

estate.

Tips by

Richard

Vines,

journalist

and Barbican resident,

@richardvines

ARCHITECTS:

CHAMBERLIN,

POWELL

AND

BON.

JO

CHAMBERS

©

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FROM LEFT: LEONID ANDRONOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

DAN BRECKWOLDT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Designed by Rafael Viñoly,

the concave glass exterior of the

Walkie Talkie (20 Fenchurch St)

famously melted a car by reflect-

ing sunlight onto it. It’s since been

fitted with special shades.

01

Foster + Partners

the Gherkin (30 St Mary

Axe), known officially

by its address, is the

bullet-like skyscraper

dominating the London

skyline. The restaurant

and bar in its dome are

open to the public.

05

The Cheesegrater (122 Lead-

enhall St), officially the Leadenhall

Building and designed by Rogers

Stirk Harbour + Partners, was

also shaped to protect views of

St Paul’s.

04

The Scalpel

(52–54 Lime St)

has a tapered top

because architec-

tural firm Kohn

Pedersen Fox had to

comply with rules

designed to protect

views of St Paul’s

Cathedral.

03

Richard Rogers designed the

Lloyd’s Building (1 Lime St) to be

‘inside out’ – the interior is open

plan while pipes and elevators

are on the outside, just like Paris’

Centre Pompidou.

02

CKTRAVELS.COM/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

64

Left Shell Centre Middle London Hilton

on Park Lane Right Hyde Park Barracks

residential tower

CITY

OF

LONDON ESSAY

London’s

Hidden

Skyscrapers

THE FIRST

GENERATION,

OVERSHADOWED YET

STILL IMPRESSIVE

Building tall for users

other than church or

state only began in

the 1930s, and it took

two more decades

for true towers to

appear. Overcoming

legal barriers,

uncertain geology

and architectural

conservatism, these

pioneers remain

distinctive and

intriguing today.

By Chris Rogers

Chris is a London-based author

and historian of architecture

and visual culture

chrismrogers.net

The first, reaching a height previously attained only by St

Paul’s, was the 27-floor, 107m tower of the Shell Centre on

the South Bank. Opened in 1962 and designed by Howard

Robertson as the centrepiece of a corporate campus, it

was the tallest office block in Britain. Controversial for

this reason – in a goodwill gesture, Shell left the lights

on in selected rooms for several nights to create a giant

Christmas tree for London – and the employees’ pool,

cinema and shops below it, the Neoclassical aesthetic

also distressed some critics. The public viewing gallery,

open-air sculptures and those staff amenities all proved

forward-looking, however, and its Portland stone architec-

ture has aged well.

Just weeks later, the taller (118m) Vickers Tower was

completed on the opposite bank for the noted British

engineering conglomerate Vickers; fittingly, its form was

far more radical. A waisted or pinched plan generated two

convex and two concave elevations, which were sheathed

in glass curtain walling and detailed with projecting

stainless-steel mullions to emphasise their sheer vertical-

ity. Pat Keely’s Tube poster that year showing an ethereal

modernist tower on the Thames is clearly inspired by

Ronald Ward & Partners’ elegant building which, now as

the Millbank Tower, remains one of the best of its era.

The London Hilton opened on Park Lane in 1963. It was

only the chain’s second hotel outside the United States

and combined Mayfair prestige with American glamour.

A transatlantic collaboration between Lewis Solomon

Kaye & Partners and William B. Tabler Architects yielded a

123m, Y-shaped tower with balconies towards Hyde Park and

in the wing junctions, gold and black anodised aluminium

CERI

BREEZE/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

WILLY

BARTON/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

65

CITY

OF

LONDON ESSAY

Shell left the lights on

in selected rooms for

several nights to create

a giant Christmas tree

for London.

windows and fast Otis lifts. Rooms had iced water on tap and

key-operated hatches for the shoe-cleaning service, while

the Roof Restaurant’s contemporary interior by Hugh Casson

contrasted with the faux-Polynesian Trader Vic’s in the podium.

Around the corner, Basil Spence struggled throughout the

1960s to fit new stables, messes, a parade ground and accom-

modation into the long, thin site of the Household Cavalry’s

Hyde Park Barracks. For the married other ranks’ quarters he

employed a tower, as a pragmatic response and architectural

counterpoint. Completed in 1970, this extruded a square plan

to a height of 94m with four flats per floor, and squash courts

and terraces at the summit.

Its crown of concrete fins is

seen by some as a guards-

man’s helmet, by others as a

chess piece – the king to the

Hilton’s queen.

Even more protracted was

the birth of the National

Westminster Tower in the Square Mile. First planned two

decades earlier by one of the bank’s predecessors as a shorter,

more conventional pair, the single 183m skyscraper that finally

opened in 1981 was by R. Seifert & Partners and packed with

technology. Three polygonal ‘leaves’ were cantilevered from

a reinforced concrete core, as is dramatically clear at street

level, and double-deck lifts with sky lobby interchanges saved

space. Bronzed glazing between stainless-steel mullions was

cleaned by a window-washing robot. It remained Britain’s tall-

est building until a new generation emerged in a new quarter

of London: Canary Wharf.

ĸ

Forward in

the Fifties

After Royal objections to the

14-storey Queen Anne’s

Mansions overlooking

Buckingham Palace, the

occupiable height of future

buildings in the capital was

limited to 80ft by an Act of

1894 that was only repealed in

1956. The clay familiar to any

London gardener was thought

incapable of supporting

anything much taller until

civil engineer Alec Skempton,

an expert in soil mechanics,

showed in a 1959 academic

paper that friction would grip

bored concrete piles firmly

enough. And although glass

towers in the International

Style were too radical for

most British clients and archi-

tects, New York’s Lever House

of 1952 proved influential.

ARCHITECT:

RAFAEL

VIÑOLY.DRIMAFILM/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

JONATHAN

HOSEANA/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

66

CITY

OF

LONDON EXPERIENCES

How to

Getting here Bank/

Monument (Central,

Northern, Circle, District

and Waterloo & City

Lines) or Fenchurch

Street Railway Station

(National Rail).

When to go Year-round,

although summer is best

for some gardens. Week-

days are always quieter,

as long as you avoid the

lunchtime rush.

Tip Dozens of gardens,

courtyards and green

spaces are hidden down

medieval alleys and

between high-rises. Many

are unmarked, but most

have seating – bring a

small picnic and enjoy.

Relax in Hidden

GARDENS

UNEXPECTED | SUMMER | NATURE

09

With so many skyscrapers tightly packed together, it’s hard to imagine the

City of London as a green space. But it has a clutch of gardens and courtyards

hidden in unexpected places, where office workers come for a lunchtime screen

break and tourists can see a different side of the neighbourhood – the only thing

is, you’ve got to know where to look.

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in the East

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e

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67

Top Sky Garden, Walkie Talkie building

Bottom St Dunstan in the East

CITY

OF

LONDON EXPERIENCES

Crowning the top three floors (Levels 35 to 37) of the Walkie

Talkie building is Sky Garden. The interior resembles a giant

greenhouse, with exotic plants creating a rainforest-style gar-

den on staggered terraces, while an outdoor viewing platform

offers unrivalled views south. There are two restaurants and

three bars inside (so don’t pack a picnic for this one). It’s free

to visit, but you have to book; tickets are released weekly.

Nearby is the Garden at 120 (120 Fenchurch St), a rooftop

garden occupying the 15th floor of the Fen Court building.

As well as a water feature, there are fruit trees and wisteria

providing shade. While not as high as the Walkie Talkie, the

glass barriers here mean you get 360-degree views of London.

Those afraid of heights might want to stay away from the

edge. No need to book – it’s first come, first served.

For somewhere firmly grounded, St Dunstan in the East (St

Dunstan’s Hill) is gorgeous all year. The 12th-century church

was damaged in the Great Fire of London in 1666, then mostly

destroyed during the Blitz of 1941. Today nature has taken over

its Gothic arches, making it look hauntingly beautiful.

Head to Christchurch Greyfriars Church Garden (King

Edward St) to see a surprising flourish of roses in the

summer, planted in flowerbeds that mark out the original

church’s pews.

š

More Green

Spaces

Walk through inconspic-

uous church doors to the

courtyard garden of St

Vedast-alias-Foster (4

Foster Ln). It’s fairly small,

with a single tree at its

centre, but it’s that extra

barrier that makes it even

more intimate.

Postman’s Park (King

Edward St) is particularly

beautiful in summer when

flowers bloom. It’s also

one of the biggest gardens

and features a memorial

for local heroes.

In winter, go to St

Alphage Gardens

(Barbican). Similar to St

Dunstan in the East, when

all the foliage has died

away, you still have the

ruins of the St Alphage

Church as well as part of

the Roman wall to see.

Tips by Katie

Wignall, Blue

Badge Tourist

Guide,

@look_uplondon

68

Top Yeoman Warder Bottom

British Crown Jewels

CITY

OF

LONDON EXPERIENCES

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With history stretching back

almost a millennia, the Tower of

London is an imposing palace and

fortress that guards the eastern

entrance to the City of London. This

family-friendly attraction – and a

favourite with tourists – is a place

to discover myths and legends, learn

about the kings and queens of the past

and see the dazzling Crown Jewels.

Take a tour Begin your visit

with a free hour-long high-

lights tour led by a Yeoman

Warder. These ceremonial

guardians, also known as

Beefeaters, were historically

personal bodyguards to

the monarch. Even today,

they must have served in

the forces to get hired. The

warders live on the grounds

with their families so you

won’t find a better guide.

Alternatively, book a private

guided tour to hear more of

the Tower’s secrets. Designed

for groups, these can be

quite expensive but you’ll see

areas normally closed to the

public, including the prison

cell where St Thomas More

was held before his execution

in 1535.

Jewels and ravens The

Crown Jewels are an essen-

tial stop – head there first

How to

Getting here Tower Hill (Circle, District, DLR,

Thames Clippers).

When to go Go early in the morning and dedicate a

whole day; avoid school holidays if you can.

How much From £34.80/17.40 per adult/child.

Tip Tickets are £1 for up to six people in any house-

hold claiming support for low incomes.

Insider’s Tower of

LONDON

FAMILY | HISTORY | FUN

10

69

CITY

OF

LONDON EXPERIENCES

CHRISDORNEY/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

JOSEPH

M.

ARSENEAU/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

thing to avoid queues – but

for some the real gems are

the ravens that live on-site

and roam the grounds during

the day. Legend has it that if

the six resident ravens leave

the Tower, it and the kingdom

will both fall. This hasn’t been

tested yet, but there’s always

a spare raven just in case.

Hidden surprises Key

attractions aside, there are

some small surprises, too.

As you pass through Byward

Tower on the way in, look left

for a glass brick. Inside, there’s

a fake human hand that was

installed as a joke. Also look

out for the lamppost by the

New Armouries Café – it’s

repurposed from a cannon.

There’s even a pub in the

grounds that’s only open to

Beefeaters and their guests.

c

Ceremony

of the Keys

During this ceremonial event,

which has taken place every

night for some 700 years,

a Yeoman Warder closes,

locks and secures the outer

and inner gates of the Tower

under the escort of soldiers

from its military garrison.

Since 1826, it has begun at

exactly 9.53pm. Tickets must

be pre-booked.

Tip by Pete

McGowran,

Chief Yeoman

Warder,

@TowerOfLondon

CITY

OF

LONDON EXPERIENCES

CHRIS

LAWRENCE

TRAVEL/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

70

Imbibe on a Historic

PUB CRAWL

PUBS | WALKING TOUR | HISTORY

The wooden beams and faded walls of London’s oldest pubs have played

witness to centuries of history. Some date back to the 1600s while others have

been faithfully rebuilt in the style of their predecessors. This itinerary is a chance

for you to dive into the stories behind their quirky interior over a cool and

refreshing pint.

11

How to

Getting there On foot from Holborn (Central Line), or Bank/Monument

(Central, Northern, Circle, District and Waterloo & City Lines) if doing the

itinerary in reverse.

When to go Thursday afternoons are very busy and there’s usually a lunchtime

rush, which adds to the atmosphere. Most of the pubs are closed on Sunday.

Tip Some of the pubs were rebuilt in the last 100 years and they combine

architectural elements from different times in history.

Ħ

London Gin

Distillery

The gin craze

famously depicted by

English painterWilliam

Hogarth gripped

London in the early

18th century. The

multiple Gin Acts

that followed closed

all the distilleries.

In 2012 the City of

London Distillery &

Bar became the first

new distillery in the

area for almost 200

years. Book ahead to

taste – and make –

your own gin here.

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CHRISPICTURES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Cittie of Yorke

(22 High Holborn) was

built in the 1920s on a

location that’s housed

a pub since 1430. Grab

a booth fashioned

from a carrel for extra

atmosphere.

01

Jamaica Wine House (St

Michael’s Alley) was originally

established as a coffee house

popular with merchants trad-

ing in the West Indies in the

17th century. It was rebuilt as

a pub in 1885.

05

Another pub built

by Wren to house ma-

sons, Ye Olde Watling

(29 Watling St; pictured

opposite) is said to

be where plans for St

Paul’s Cathedral were

drawn up.

04

Built for masons by Sir

Christopher Wren in the late

1600s, the Old Bell Tavern (95

Fleet St) has a view of St Bride’s

churchyard from the back.

03

Rebuilt in 1667 after the

Great Fire of London, Ye

Olde Cheshire Cheese (145

Fleet St) is an intimate pub

with dark-wood panelling

giving it a Dickensian air.

02

01

02

03

72

01 Millennium Bridge

Since opening in 2000, this

pedestrian suspension bridge

has appeared in numerous

films including 28 Weeks Later

(2007) and Guardians of the

Galaxy (2014).

02 St Paul’s

Cathedral

St Paul’s frequently appears as

part of London’s skyline, but

films like Mission: Impossible –

Fallout (2018) reveal its stunning

interior.

03 The Old Bailey

A criminal court by day, the

Old Bailey was blown up in

V for Vendetta (2005) and

captured by terrorists in

Justice League (2017).

72

CITY OF LONDON

in TV & Films

04

05

06

07

73

04 The Priory

Church of St

Bartholomew

the Great

One of the oldest

churches in London, St

Barts is also St Julian’s

church in Four Weddings

and a Funeral (1994).

05 Leadenhall

Market

Leadenhall Market’s

colourful architecture

can be seen in Lara

Croft: Tomb Raider

(2001) and Harry Potter

and the Philosopher’s

Stone (2001).

06 Tower Bridge

One of the most

famous crossings in

films, Tower Bridge also

provided the backdrop

in the season three

finale of the TV series

Killing Eve.

07 Barbican

The Barbican estate

can be seen in

Quantum of Solace

(2008) as MI6

headquarters and

in Netflix’s The One

(2021).

01 GEORGETHEFOURTH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 02 KOTSOVOLOS PANAGIOTIS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 03 N.M. BEAR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 04 KIEV.VICTOR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

05 ROBINSONBECQUART/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 06 ANDREW THOMAS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 07 ARCHITECTS: CHAMBERLIN, POWELL AND BON. KIEV.VICTOR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ILLUSTRATIONS: MART/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, KSANAGRAPHICA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, OHMEGA1982/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

07

73

r Essential Stops

Smithfield Market

The oldest and largest meat market in the

country with interesting architecture dating

to the 1860s. It’s open to the public – go

before 7am to see it in action.

41 Cloth Fair

This unassuming property, built between

1597 and 1614, is the only house that survived

the Great Fire of London in 1666, making it

the City’s oldest house.

The Royal Exchange

Luxury shopping and dining in a grand

building dating back to 1844. The first Royal

Exchange on this site was opened by Queen

Elizabeth I in 1566.

H Steaks & Views

Goodman

£££

New York–style steakhouse with moody in-

teriors, including wood panelling and leather

banquettes. Expensive but good-quality

steaks and wine selection. Very popular for

business lunches.

Hawksmoor Guildhall

££

Part of a small chain, this place neverthe-

less has excellent steaks and burgers. This

outpost is especially popular for breakfast

where cocktails are served with your fry-up.

Duck & Waffle

££

Named after its signature dish, this

24-hour restaurant has sweeping views

of London from the 40th floor. Great for

weekend brunch but popular for sunrise

breakfasts, too.

Madison

£££

An upscale restaurant with up-close views of

St Paul’s Cathedral. Book the outdoor terrace

bar for drinks only. There are also live-music

and DJ nights.

Yauatcha

£££

Intricate and opulent Cantonese-inspired dim

sum from the Hakkasan group, plus a patisserie

shop, great views of Broadgate Circle and a

small rooftop terrace.

Koya

£

Japanese udon noodles in the heart of

Bloomberg Arcade with covered outdoor

seating. Popular with City workers.

City Social

£££

Fine-dining restaurant and bar from Michelin-

starred chef Jason Atherton. Located on the

24th floor of Tower 42, with close-up views of

the Gherkin.

Jin Bo Law Skybar

£

The 14th-floor bar at Dorsett City Hotel faces

the City of London. The outdoor terrace gets

very busy during the summer months.

Smithfield Market

CEDRIC

WEBER/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

CITY

OF

LONDON REVIEWS

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

74

q Churches with Secrets

All Hallows by the Tower

Founded in 675 CE, this is the oldest church

in the City of London. A section of Roman

pavement dating back to the 2nd century is

hidden in its crypt.

St Bride’s Church

Famed for its wedding-cake spire, this Sir

Christopher Wren–designed church near

Fleet Street has a museum in the crypt.

St Stephen Walbrook

While not much to look at from the

outside, inside you’ll see the magnificent

Wren-designed dome that’s said to be the

precursor to St Paul’s dome.

a A Dose of Culture

Barbican Centre

Multi-purpose venue at the heart of the Bar-

bican estate that includes a cinema, theatre

and art gallery. There are always free exhibits

but book well ahead for performances.

St Mary-le-Bow

AWren-designed church (since rebuilt by archi-

tect Laurence King) that hosts regular lunch-

time organ recitals as well as public lectures

and discussion panels on a range of subjects.

Bank of England Museum

Interactive and family-friendly museum filled

with interesting exhibits where you can learn

about the history of the bank and its place in

today’s economy.

London Museum

Learn about the history and culture of London

at the newly revamped and newly launched

family-friendly museum that opens early and

closes late. Opening in 2026.

ą Get Competitive

Baranis

Intimate subterranean bar with an indoor

pétanque court (boules are supplied). Sip

herb-infused cocktails as you play.

Swingers

Enormous indoor crazy golf venue with two

bespoke courses, food stalls and bars. Best

enjoyed in a small group.

Axeperience

Axe throwing – think darts but with 600g axes

instead. Instructors are on hand for safety and

technique. Popular for date night.

Ġ Create Your Own Walks

Sculpture in the City

A ‘sculpture park’ that uses spaces in the

Square Mile for its installations. The theme

and location of the public art changes every

year.

City Trees

There are around 70 species of trees in the

dense urban environment of the City. Use Tree

Talk (treetalk.eco) to plot your own walk.

All Hallows by the Tower

KIT

LEONG/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

CITY

OF

LONDON REVIEWS

75

SOUTH BANK

VIBRANT | FOODIE | FAMILY FUN

 Trip Builder (p78)

 South Bank Food

Markets (p80)

 Get Stuck in at

Borough Market (p82)

 Discover Vibrant

Street Art (p84)

 See a Show at the

Globe (p86)

 Best Free Views of

London (p88)

 Listings (p90)

G

E

ő

Westminster

Bridge

Hungerford

Bridge

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FROM LEFT: SUSANHALAY/LONELY PLANET ©, PAOLO PARADISO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PREVIOUS SPREAD: ANDREYSPB21/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Grab an ice cream and soar over

the city in the London Eye’s

spacious glass pods.

Ġ 7 min walk from Waterloo Station

The South Bank is known for its

eclectic art spaces and theatres that

rival the West End, but it is also the

go-to neighbourhood for food markets.

There’s lots to do for free and the huge

number of family-friendly attractions

make it perfect for a rainy day.

Neighbourhood Notes

Best for Food and culture.

Transport Northern, Jubilee, National Rail (also

Waterloo & City, Bakerloo, Thames Clippers).

Getting around Best on foot but take the

Underground if hopping from Waterloo to London

Bridge.

Tip Look out for festivals and special events. In the

summer there’s free theatre and live music, and in

winter there’s a Christmas market.

SOUTH

BANK

Trip Builder

Explore the graffiti tunnel

at Leake Street Arches,

where the artworks are

lit up after dark.

Ġ 4 min walk from

Waterloo Station

SOUTH

BANK BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

78

3

E

E

I

6

Ņ

ħ

Southwark

Bridge

Blackfriars

Bridge

London

Bridge

L A M B E T H

B O R O U G H

S O U T H W A R K

T E M P L E

C I T Y O F

L O N D O N

Millennium

Bridge

Geraldine Mary

Harmsworth

Park

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Modern

Shop for cute sou-

venirs and then grab

a coffee or lunch at

Gabriel’s Wharf.

Ġ 10 min walk from

Waterloo Station

Go on a walking tour with

Unseen to learn about London

from a different perspective.

Ġ Tours meet near London Bridge

Pretend you’re by the

sea on Thames Beach

or join the mudlarkers

as they search for

treasure.

Ġ 10 min walk from

Southwark Station

Learn to make Bread

Ahead’s gooey, custard-

filled doughnuts at

their working bakery at

Borough Market.

Ġ 4 min walk from

London Bridge Station

Watch an open-air perfor-

mance at Shakespeare’s

Globe, where the playwright’s

works are constantly updated.

Ġ 3 min walk from Tate Modern

Enjoy views across

London as you sip a

cocktail at GŎNG,

Europe’s highest

hotel bar located

inside the Shard.

Ġ 5 min walk from

London Bridge

SOUTH

BANK EXPERIENCES

CHETTARIN/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

80

South Bank Food

MARKETS

FOOD | MARKETS | WALKING TOUR

Borough Market might be South Bank’s most famous food market but the

neighbourhood has plenty of other spots where you can stroll from stall to stall

while sampling world cuisines. This itinerary takes you from one side of the

South Bank to the other, from day to night, with live entertainment to boot. Come

hungry and bring wet weather gear.

12

How to

Getting around Waterloo (Northern, Jubilee, Bakerloo, Waterloo & City, National

Rail), or London Bridge (Northern, Jubilee, National Rail, Thames Clippers) if

doing the itinerary in reverse.

When to go All of the markets are open on Friday and have bars serving until

late, except Lower Marsh Market, which closes at 3pm Monday to Friday. Start

around midday and check individual markets for opening days and times to be

on the safe side.

Tip There are flea markets at Lower Marsh Market (Saturday) and Vinegar Yard

(Saturday and Sunday) on weekends.

ħ

Best Coffee

Spots

Roasting Plant

Coffee (4 Borough

High St) Upscale

cafe where beans

are always freshly

roasted.

Origin Coffee (84

Scoresby St) B Corp–

certified coffee shop

with Instagram-

friendly decor.

Monmouth Coffee

Company (2 Park St;

pictured) Specialty

coffees served in a

rustic space.

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FROM LEFT: K.SHUN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, SAM MELLISH/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Produce and street-

food traders dominate at

Lower Marsh Market, one

of London’s oldest markets,

but you’ll also find a jumble

of crafts for sale.

01

Popular with

office workers, the

permanent food

stalls at Vinegar

Yard include Baba

G’s, known for the

Indian spices in its

Bhangra Burger.

05

Restaurants and

food stalls share the

space at Flat Iron

Square so go as

formal as you like.

There’s also a live

music venue on-site.

04

The food stalls at Southbank

Centre Food Market are constantly

changing but you can always rely

on Dough Bros for great pizza.

03

Between the Bridges has

the biggest outdoor drinks

area in London, with food

stalls, regular DJs and events.

The guava-glazed fried chicken

from El Pollote is unmissable.

02

51NORTH/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

CRISTINA.A/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

82

SOUTH

BANK EXPERIENCES

How to

Getting here London

Bridge (Northern, Jubilee,

National Rail, Thames

Clippers).

When to go Most traders

are closed on Sunday.

Experiences require

advance booking.

Tip If you buy food from

one of the stalls, don’t

hurry the experience by

eating kerbside. At the

junction of Bedale Street

and Borough High St

there’s an enclosed space

with seating. Otherwise

walk to Bankside where

you can perch by the

Thames with unrestricted

views of the London

skyline.

Get Stuck in at Borough

MARKET

FOOD | EXPERIENCES | SHOPPING

13

Borough Market is home to a lively mix of street-food stalls, produce

traders, bars and restaurants, but you can do more than just eat and drink here.

Learn a hands-on skill like making your own sausages or try your hand at frying

up a batch of doughnuts so you can take home more than just memories.

G

London

Bridge

Ri

ve

r

Th

am

es

Sou

thw

ark

Bridg

e

Rd

S

t

T

h

o

m

a

s

S

t

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St

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ni

on

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t

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o

ro

u

g

h

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ig

h

S

t

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o

n

d

o

n

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r

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t

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Be

da

l

e

S

t

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St

T

o

o

le

y

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t

Du

ke

Hi

ll

St

Borough

Market

London

Bridge

0

200 m

0

0.1 miles

e

i

83

Top Spice Mountain Bottom Bread

Ahead

SOUTH

BANK EXPERIENCES

Skip the doughnut queue outside Bread Ahead and go

straight into the adjacent bakery where you can learn how

to make these tasty treats yourself. In just two hours, you’ll

leave with a small bundle of ‘custard grenades’ – a doughnut

overfilled with creamy custard – that you’ve made yourself.

If desserts aren’t your thing, they also have half-, full- and

multi-day courses specialising in different breads and pastries.

Courses often sell out a month in advance.

If you don’t mind getting a bit messy, make your way to the

Ginger Pig. The upscale butcher’s shop runs a popular sausage-

making course at its Borough Market branch. You’ll learn the

basics of sausage-making – from getting the ratio of lean meat

to fat just right, to adding the perfect combination of flavour –

before getting hands-on with a mincer and sausage stuffer to

make your own links.

Bedales of Borough Market combines a wine shop, bar and

bistro in one. Book ahead (ideally by at least 36 hours) for a

self-guided wine tasting with a Prosecco and three table wines,

all accompanied by fresh sourdough and olives. A tasting

booklet is provided. It’s the perfect excuse to try before you

buy.

S

Shop Borough

Market

Spice Mountain (spice

mountain.co.uk) Fabulous

tubs of spices and spice

blends for you to experi-

ment with at home.

Oliveology (oliveology.

co.uk) Sachets of wonder-

ful dried Greek herbs.

From Field & Flower

(fromfieldandflower.co.uk)

An extensive selection

of delicious honeys with

varying intensities of

flavour.

Food & Forest

(foodandforest.co.uk)

Sustainably produced raw,

roasted or sweet nuts.

Borough Kitchen Cook

Shop (boroughkitchen.

com) If luggage space

allows, pick up The

Borough Market Cookbook

by Ed Smith, or Mark Rid-

daway’s Borough Market:

Edible Histories.

Recommenda-

tions by Angela

Clutton,

freelance food

writer and host of the

Borough Market Cookbook

Club, @angela_clutton

BAILEY-COOPER

PHOTOGRAPHY/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

CHAMELEONSEYE/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

84

SOUTH

BANK EXPERIENCES

How to

Getting here Waterloo

(Northern, Jubilee,

Bakerloo, Waterloo & City,

National Rail), or London

Bridge (Northern, Jubilee,

National Rail, Thames

Clipper) in reverse.

Before you go Visit street

artbio.com to find out

more about the artists

and their work.

Tip Works by celebrated

artists such as Banksy

have appeared on the

South Bank in the past,

but the nature of these

pieces mean they don’t

stay for long, as some

are removed and others

are painted over. So

even if you’ve already

been, it’s still worth

coming back.

Discover Vibrant

STREET ART

GRAFFITI | OUTDOORS | EXPLORING

14

Having established galleries like the Tate Modern on the South Bank

means its street art is often overlooked. But if you know where to go, there are

artworks to rival those found in Shoreditch. The works here are more spread

out so you’ll need to get your explorer’s hat on and keep your eyes peeled for

everything from captivating graffiti to diminutive mosaics.

ő

ő

ő

Westminster

Bridge

Blackfriars

Bridge

London

Bridge

Southwark

Bridge

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er

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mes

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th

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rk

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d

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oug

h

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's

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a

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d

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n

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a

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fo

r

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t

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Bridge

Y

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r

k

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d

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a

m

b

e

th

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a

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d

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e

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t

m

in

s

t

e

r

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Victoria

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ban

km

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Waterloo

Southbank

Skatepark

London

Bridge

Station

Leake

Street

Arches

i

e

0

500 m

0

0.25 miles

85

SOUTH

BANK EXPERIENCES

Top Leake Street Arches Bottom

Southbank Skatepark

Leake Street Arches is the South Bank’s best-known

street-art hub. The disused railway arches had been largely

abandoned before Banksy hosted the first Cans Festival here

in 2008 and gave it a new lease of life. Since then, it’s become

a multi-venue space with theatres, live music and restaurants

– all accessed via the brightly spray-painted tunnel entrance.

You’ll always see art in progress and there are occasionally

events where you can have a go yourself.

Sitting directly beneath the Southbank Centre is the South-

bank Skatepark, a public space that’s frequently regarded as

the home of British skateboarding. Having been used by skat-

ers for over 40 years, it was refurbished and extended in 2019

following a public campaign to save it from redevelopment.

Now it features the largest collection of tags and throw-ups on

the South Bank.

As you walk along the river from Waterloo to London Bridge,

you’ll see some street art clustered around each of the bridg-

es. Look out for colourful murals on feature walls and small

mosaics higher up. The biggest collection can be found around

the arches at London Bridge Station. Unlike Leake Street

Arches and Southbank Skatepark, the artworks here are much

more spread out so this section is where you can really lose

yourself.

Y

Illuminated

River

Connecting east London

to the west is Illuminated

River (illuminatedriver.

london), a major public art

project. The idea is to fit

15 bridges – from Tower

Bridge in the east to

Albert Bridge in the west

– with coloured LED lights

that illuminate the struc-

tures at night. The lighting

design was created by

American light artist Leo

Villareal, with each bridge

given a unique sequence

to enhance its features.

Nine bridges have already

been completed and you

can see them in action af-

ter dark – just take a walk

along the River Thames

at night.

If you want to learn

more, there is also a

program of events around

the bridges, including spe-

cial river cruises, guided

walking tours and magical

guided night-kayaking

trips.

86

Top Performance of The Tempest

by the Lions park performers

Bottom Exterior, Globe Theatre

SOUTH

BANK EXPERIENCES

3 3

Southwark

Bridge

C I T Y O F

L O N D O N

Millennium

Bridge

Ri

ve

r

Th

am

es

So

uth

war

k

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ge

Rd

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thwark

St

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ni

on

S

t

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St

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Tham

es

St

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ou

th

w

ar

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at

Suffolk

St

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ner

St

H

o

ll

a

n

d

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t

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rk

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ion

St

Copperfield

St

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ue

en

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re

at

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u

ild

fo

rd

S

t

Sam

Wanamaker

Playhouse

Shakespeare's

Globe Theatre

e

0

200 m

0

0.1 miles

Sitting on the bank of the

River Thames, Shakespeare’s Globe

looks every part the Tudor playhouse

with its thatched roof, timber frames

and an open yard that’s standing-

room only and exposed to the

elements. When you’re in the yard,

the experience mirrors that of the

average Elizabethan, while the shows

are thoroughly modern, making this

experience truly unique.

Shakespeare’s Globe is actually

two venues in one: the Globe

Theatre (outdoors, summer

only) and Sam Wanamaker

Playhouse (indoors, year-

round). While both are worth

experiencing, the Globe feels

more authentic to Shakespeare

and is much more affordable,

making it great for a first visit.

The shows performed at

the Globe are exclusively

Shakespeare’s works, albeit

reinterpreted for a modern

audience, so expect plenty of

singing, dancing and special

effects, all accompanied by a

live band. Almost all perfor-

mances are family-friendly,

although the evening shows

How to

Getting here Bankside (Thames Clippers) or a

short walk from London Bridge (Northern, Jubilee).

When to go Evening performances at the Globe are

more atmospheric but matinees are less busy.

How much From £5.

How long Upwards of 1½ hours. Not all performances

have intervals.

Tip Prepare for all weather, even if seated. You can’t

use umbrellas in the yard so pack a raincoat.

See a Show at

THE GLOBE

THEATRE | SUMMER | OUTDOORS

15

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can run late into the night,

which might not be suitable

for young children. Select

performances have British

Sign Language interpreters

or audio description; these

are indicated when you book

your tickets.

The yard is the cheapest

place to be but it’s also the

most fun. You’re right in the

middle of The action as the

actors tend to interact more

with the audience here, and

will even run through the

crowd as part of the show.

You can also walk around to

get a different perspective

or even a better view – just

as Elizabethans would have

done in their time. Those who

get tired easily might want to

find a spot at the back of the

yard where leaning against

the banister is de rigueur.

ĸ The Third Globe

The Globe Theatre that you

see today was completed

in 1997 and features many

Elizabethan design elements,

including a real thatched

roof. The original theatre

was located nearby, a street

back from the river. When

it burned down in 1613, a

second was built in its place,

but it was closed by order of

Parliament in 1642 when the

English Civil War began.

88

Top Houses of Parliament

Bottom City skyline seen from

Tate Modern's Blavatnik Building

SOUTH

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G

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London

Bridge

Tower

Bridge

B O R O U G H

C I T Y O F

L O N D O N

C O V E N T

G A R D E N

C L E R K E N W E L L

L A M B E T H

S O U T H

B A N K

K E N N I N G T O N

S H O R E D I T C H

H O L B O R N

S T L U K E ' S

B E R M O N D S E Y

Gabriel's

Wharf

Golden

Jubilee

Bridges

OXO

Tower

Tate

Modern

Thames

Beach

Waterloo

Bridge

Westminster

Bridge

The

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The City of London might be

packed with skyscrapers but the best

views of the skyline are found south of

the river. There are multiple vantage

points along the riverfront – some

elevated and some right at the water’s

edge – where you can get the perfect

shot. And you don’t have to pay for the

privilege either.

For virtually unobstructed

views of the city, cross

a bridge. Westminster

Bridge offers the view of the

Houses of Parliament that

you frequently see in films.

Of the two pedestrian-only

Golden Jubilee Bridges, the

upstream one has slightly

better views, especially of

the London Eye as you walk

from north to south. For the

perfect panoramic downriver,

go to Waterloo Bridge and

cross just over halfway.

For views from up high,

there’s a little-known public

viewing platform on Level 8

of the OXO Tower, by the

restaurant. From here, look

How to

Getting here Waterloo (Northern, Jubilee,

Bakerloo, Waterloo & City, National Rail) or London

Bridge (Northern, Jubilee, National Rail, Thames

Clipper).

When to go Great year-round but best at dawn,

sunset or after dark.

Top tip Instead of a river cruise, take one of the

Uber Boat by Thames Clippers (thamesclippers.

com). Services run from Putney to Woolwich but

the most interesting stretch is in the Central Zone.

The RB2 serves South Bank stops.

Best Free Views of

LONDON

LANDSCAPES | ARCHITECTURE | FREE

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left for Somerset House and

right for St Paul’s Cathedral

and the City of London.

Further along the river you

have the viewing platform on

Level 10 of Tate Modern’s

Blavatnik Building. St Paul’s

is pretty much straight ahead

when you face north while

the City is further east. Be

prepared to wait a while for

the elevators, though, as it

can get crowded.

You can walk along the river

all the way from Westminster

Bridge to London Bridge and

there are multiple viewpoints

along the way. The observa-

tion point by Gabriel’s Wharf

offers virtually the same

view as OXO Tower from the

ground, but even better is the

view from the stretch by the

Scoop near Tower Bridge.

Look west to see the City

skyline in all its glory.

W River View

The South Bank is all about

interacting with the water

and it’s better when you’re

lower down. The Thames

Beach is right at the water

level and you can go mud-

larking on the river bank.

Tip by Alex

Lifschutz,

Founding Director

of Lifschutz

Davidson Sandilands

architects, @lds_architects

F More than a Show

National Theatre

The Olivier, Lyttelton and Dorfman theatres

are all venues at this publicly funded perform-

ing arts centre. Free shows take place outside

the venue frequently during the summer.

The Old Vic

A large capacity (1000 seats) not-for-profit

theatre with over 200 years of history, where

you can see everything from plays to live mu-

sic. Discounted preview tickets are available

for new shows.

The Young Vic

Originally an Old Vic off-shoot, the Young

Vic is well known for its boundary-pushing

programming with shows from younger play-

wrights and plays inspired by world events.

The Vaults

Housed inside disused railway arches, this

multi-space venue is known for hosting

alternative performances and immersive

experiences, including dinner theatre. It’s

accessed via Leake Street Arches.

H Space to Refuel

Casa do Frango

£

Airy Portuguese restaurant specialising in

freshly grilled piri-piri chicken and small

plates to share. The space gets quite busy

and loud, even during the week.

Trivet

£££

Fine-dining restaurant serving creative

British food with a hefty price tag. The

co-founders are both alumni of the three-

Michelin-starred Fat Duck.

Arabica

£

A Middle Eastern restaurant with a seasonal

changing menu of meze dishes to share. The

flatbreads are particularly good. The energetic

atmosphere and friendly staff make it a joy

to visit.

Scootercaffe

£

A cafe during the day and a bar at night, this

intimate, retro venue also has a hidden garden

that’s great in the summer.

The Thirsty Bear

£

Lively, high-tech pub with tables where you

can pull your own pint and order food to the

table with the help of an iPad.

GŎNG

££

Located on the 52nd floor of the Shard, this is

the highest hotel bar in Europe. There’s a min-

imum spend but it’s cheaper than the viewing

gallery lower down.

Art Yard Bar & Kitchen

££

Bankside Hotel’s hospitality offering features

a huge collection of art and excellent cocktails

inspired by the local area.

National Theatre

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Listings

BEST OF THE REST

90

Ĺ Family-Friendly Attractions

London Eye

The world’s largest cantilevered observation

wheel with 32 glass pods. A single rotation

takes 30 minutes and there’s enough space

in the pods for a small group.

SEA LIFE Centre London Aquarium

Spanning the ground floor of County Hall,

the layout of this aquarium creates hidden

corners that make exploring its shark walk

and underwater tunnel feel like an adventure.

The London Dungeon

A walk-through experience with a mixture

of rides and live actors that retell important

points in history. A hit with teens but not

suitable for young kids.

Immersive Gamebox

Interactive and immersive gaming experi-

ence in an enclosed room. Touch-sensitive

walls, sensors and cameras are used to track

your progress. Each session lasts 30 or 60

minutes.

Golden Hinde

A full-sized replica of the vessel that Sir Fran-

cis Drake used to circumnavigate the world.

On board this seaworthy ship, you’ll learn

about the history of the original expedition.

Clink Prison Museum

Built on the grounds of the original Clink Pris-

on, this gruesome museum tells the stories of

the colourful inmates. There are also displays

of torture devices.

U Tours with Purpose

Unseen London Bridge

Unseen gives a voice and income to those

who have been homeless, and this walking

tour offers insight into another side of London

with a dose of history.

Tours by Foot

These affordable tours allow those on low

incomes to ‘pay what they can’ to be shown

around the South Bank’s highlights every

Sunday by professional tour guides.

r Shop for Souvenirs

Gabriel’s Wharf

A cluster of cute boutiques selling clothing

and accessories, many of which are hand-

made. You can also pick up works and prints

by local artists.

OXO Tower Wharf

Split across different floors of the building

are studios and shops home to makers and

designers. Most sell handmade jewellery but

you can also find ceramics and furniture.

Southbank Centre Book Market

A secondhand book market under Waterloo

Bridge, with everything from comics to classic

novels in paperback and hardback. Antiques

are occasionally sold here, too.

London Eye

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KENSINGTON

& HYDE PARK

Experience

Kensington

& Hyde Park

online

PARKS | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING

 Trip Builder (p94)

 The Royal College

of Music (p96)

 Shop Harrods

on a Budget (p98)

 Explore Art in

a Royal Park (p100)

 Go Indie on King’s

Road (p102)

 Romantic

Gothic London (p104)

 Listings (p106)

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S O U T H

K E N S I N G T O N

B A Y S W A T E R

E A R L ' S

C O U R T

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Palace

FROM LEFT: NATHANIEL NOIR/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©,

WILLY BARTON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PREVIOUS SPREAD: ANTON_IVANOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

See cutting-edge art within a park

at the Serpentine Galleries.

Ġ 10 min walk from the Royal

College of Music

The term ‘world-famous’ is often

attached to sites within this culturally

(and financially) rich section of town:

the V&A; Hyde Park; Harrods;

Kensington Palace. There are few areas

more classic and quintessentially

British than here; plan a visit to

witness the multifaceted capital’s

opulent, polished side.

Neighbourhood Notes

Best for Culture, parks, luxury shopping and dining.

Transport Piccadilly, Circle, District and Victoria

Lines (and National Rail trains to Victoria Station).

Getting around It’s a highly walkable area,

otherwise buses and Underground trains are readily

available.

Budget tip Neighbourhood shopping and dining

can be pricey, but museums remain free.

KENSINGTON

& HYDE PARK

Trip Builder

Visit the Royal College of

Music for performances as well

as its state-of-the-art museum.

Ġ 7 min walk from the Natural

History Museum

94

KENSINGTON

&

HYDE

PARK BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

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Victoria &

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Museum

Buckingham

Palace

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1 km

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Explore a hub of

Nordic-Japanese

design, food and drink

at Pantechnicon.

Ġ 6 min walk from

Knightsbridge

Underground Station

Have a refined time with

afternoon tea at the Goring.

Ġ 4 min walk from Victoria Station

Shop indie brands and

eat well at multifaceted

Eccleston Yards.

Ġ 6 min walk from

Victoria Station

Learn about British military

history at the state-of-the-

art National Army Museum.

Ġ 12 min walk from Sloane

Square Station

Shop ’til you drop at

luxury department

store Harvey Nichols.

Ġ 2 min walk from

Hyde Park

Take a stroll along King’s Road

in Chelsea, one of London’s most

famous shop-filled streets.

Ġ 2 min walk from Sloane

Square Station

ROBERTO

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ROSA/SHUTTERSTOCK

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HEATHCLIFF

O’MALLEY

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WPA

POOL/

GETTY

IMAGES

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KENSINGTON

&

HYDE

PARK EXPERIENCES

How to

Getting there The

closest station – South

Kensington on the Circle,

District and Piccadilly

Lines – is a half-mile

away. The 360 bus

brings you closest to its

doorstep.

When to go During the

typical college semester

season (autumn and

spring); check online for

ticketed performances

(rcm.ac.uk/events). The

museum is closed on

Monday.

Buyer’s tip Find mugs,

buttons, books and other

affordable branded gifts

and collectables at the

RCM Shop.

The Royal College

OF MUSIC

MUSIC | HISTORY | PERFORMING ARTS

17

Located opposite Royal Albert Hall in Kensington is the Royal College

of Music, a leading music conservatoire that has nurtured some of the world’s

brightest virtuosos since 1883. The college extends a public welcome to visitors with

a plethora of experiences within its stately campus grounds, from a brand-new,

interactive music museum to a robust calendar of performances and concerts.

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Top The Royal College of Music

Bottom Students performing at

the Royal College of Music

KENSINGTON

&

HYDE

PARK EXPERIENCES

The sound of history The new, state-of-the-art Royal Col-

lege of Music Museum is the crown jewel of the institution’s

ongoing multi-million-dollar facelift. Visitors can explore an

interactive space housing thousands of items – from the

earliest known string keyboard instrument, the clavicytherium,

to portraits of leading 18th-century musicians. Audio guides

will take you through five centuries of music history under an

attractive atrium venue. Go on a Friday to catch one of the

weekly in-museum chamber performances, or try your hand

at crafting your own sound inside its family-friendly Weston

Discovery Centre.

Catch a show Where can you find the next classical music

superstar? Chances are, they could be a student performing

or composing at any given recital or concert on this campus

– and you can see them in action for free or for as little as £2.

The semester season is rife with open-to-the-public shows in

refreshed performance spaces, including the Britten Theatre,

a grand opera house where costumed students belt notes to

the tune of an 80-person orchestra. Catch a masterclass by a

world-renowned violinist in a concert hall; sway to jazz from a

student ensemble in one of the theatres; or enjoy a chamber

music session inside the new 150-seat performance hall.

a

Museum

Must-Sees

The oldest guitar in the

world Made in Lisbon by

Belchior Dias in 1581.

Famous portraits

Celebrated Italian baroque

singer Farinelli and Aus-

trian composer Joseph

Haydn.

A beautifully painted

harpsichord Made in

Venice by Alessandro

Trasuntino in 1531.

Early viols A collection

made in London from the

end of the 16th century.

Autographed manu-

scripts from the RCM

Library collection,

including works by Edward

Elgar, Frédéric Chopin and

Wolfgang Mozart.

Suggestions

by Gabriele

Rossi Rognoni,

Curator of the

Royal College of Music

Museum, @RossiRognoni

MAREKS

PERKONS/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

CR

PEN_85/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

98

KENSINGTON

&

HYDE

PARK EXPERIENCES

How to

Getting there A stone’s

throw from the Under-

ground’s Knightsbridge

Station entrance; other-

wise, use Knightsbridge

area-bound buses.

When to go Harrods is

open seven days a week.

Mornings are best to

sidestep the daily after-

noon and early evening

rush; winter holiday

season is a popular but

enchanting time to visit.

Just browsing Everyone’s

a window shopper–no

matter the budget – from

11.30am to noon on

Sunday, as that is Harrods’

dedicated‘browsing only’

period.

Shop Harrods on

A BUDGET

SHOPPING | DINING | FASHION

18

Harrods is quite possibly the world’s most famous department store, a

grand temple of high-end shopping based in ultra-affluent Knightsbridge. But

not every Harrods shopper can splurge £1 million on ruby-encrusted slippers,

or buy a yacht on a whim. Thankfully, with a few budget-friendly hacks, you can

have a quintessential Harrods experience without breaking the bank.

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Top Food Hall Bottom Tea Room

KENSINGTON

&

HYDE

PARK EXPERIENCES

Wallet-friendly eats Though Harrods is known for its varied

(and often outrageously expensive) collectables and luxury

fashion stock, its edible offerings remain the most popular and

more cost-friendly aspect of the visitor shopping experience.

The famous, ornate Food Halls recently underwent a four-year

renovation; the latest from the taste emporium is Choco-

late Hall, with an in-house chocolatier, where you can grab

Harrods’ signature Gold Bar for £10. (It’s a better deal than,

say, £350 for limited-edition Ecuadorian chocolate bars also

sold on-site.) Buy affordable fresh breads and pastries at the

Roastery & Bake Hall, or grab takeaway fare from Fresh Mar-

ket Hall’s the Deli and make a picnic of it at nearby Hyde Park.

Souvenirs & sales With over 300 departments selling mostly

luxury items, bargain-hunting at Harrods can feel intimidating

and downright unfeasible. The general shopping rule of thumb

is to bypass the fashion, home goods and jewellery depart-

ments and focus on souvenirs. Harrods-branded souvenirs,

especially, tend to be more cost-friendly than other brands

on display. But don’t overlook sale season for clothing and

accessories that might have been out of reach: you can save

up to 50% during the summer and winter holiday seasons if

you stay on top of announcements (and arrive in-person as

early as possible).

r

Harrods

Top To-Dos

See the store’s exterior

by day and drool over

London’s caramelised

Vatican of Shopping.

Feast your eyes with a

stroll through the Food

Halls, decked with original

Royal Doulton tiling.

Find the perfect scent

at Salon de Parfum,

London’s preeminent

perfume shop, with

fragrances found nowhere

else in the world.

Savour a champagne

afternoon tea at the

Harrods Tea Room for

prime people-watching in

elegant surroundings.

Don’t miss seeing the

building’s exterior at

night, a shimmering fairy-

tale of 12,000 lightbulbs

on display.

Tips by Frank

Burgess, a Blue

Badge Tour

Guide with

Premium Tours,

@FrankTourGuide

KENSINGTON

&

HYDE

PARK EXPERIENCES

Top Café and restaurant at the

Serpentine North Gallery Bottom

Peter Pan statue

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Kensington Gardens, bordering

Hyde Park to the west, is known

for its affiliation with Kensington

Palace, an iconic, functioning Royal

residence since the 17th century.

Beyond the palace and expansive

park grounds, however, the garden

is also a hub of the arts, with two

esteemed contemporary galleries and

a patchwork of abstract and lifelike

statues to discover.

Serpentine Galleries No

leading London contempo-

rary art gallery can claim

residence within a Royal Park

other than this mighty pair

– the Serpentine Gallery

and the striking Serpentine

North Gallery designed by

Iraqi-British architect Zaha

Hadid (1950–2016) – split by

the eponymous lake. Since

1970, art luminaries such as

Damien Hirst, Jeff Koons and

Ai Weiwei have showcased

their talent through several

exhibits and events through-

out the year. From the inter-

active Bridge Commission

Audio Walks to the lively Park

Nights and an acclaimed art

How to

Getting there Use the Underground – Central

Line’s Lancaster Gate or Queensway; District Line’s

Bayswater; and Circle and District Lines’ High

Street Kensington – or a plethora of buses.

When to go The summer season (June to August)

has the most extensive art events calendar.

Green thumb Next to Serpentine Gallery North is

the Allotment, a small community garden where

you can relax or learn urban gardening tips.

Explore Art in a

ROYAL PARK

NATURE | ART | CULTURE

19

KENSINGTON

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101

ARCHITECT:

ZAHA

HADID,

RON

ELLIS/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

ANTON_IVANOV/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

bookshop, a visit to the two

galleries is a plum choice for

art aficionados. The summer

months see the Serpentine

Gallery (the elder of the two)

hosting the Pavilion, a ro-

tating commission of global

architectural talent on the

gallery’s lawn.

Talking tales The world has

witnessed JM Barrie’s Peter

Pan come to life in books,

plays and films over the past

120 years, and the character

remains Kensington Gardens’

most famous resident (in

statue form). However, the

century-old bronze Peter

Pan statue on Long Water’s

west end can now be seen

and heard with an interactive

audio feature accessed by

scanning a smartphone. Run

in partnership with Talking

Statues London (talking

statueslondon.co.uk), the

sculpture of the mischievous

pipe-playing fictional boy is

given a voice through British

actor Danny Roche, and the

humorous monologues make

for a fun family pit stop.

Ĳ

Don’t Miss

The Arch

Head west of North

Serpentine Gallery, towards

Long Water, for a glimpse of

Henry Moore’s Arch (1980),

a 6m-tall travertine sculpture

gifted to the Serpentine

Gallery after Moore’s 80th

birthday exhibition.

102

KENSINGTON

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BBA

PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

Go Indie on

KING’S ROAD

SHOPPING | FOOD & DRINK | LUXURY

An initial walk along Chelsea’s famous, nearly 2-mile strip of pricey high-

street brands and UK dining chains might discourage someone seeking one-off

places, but a closer look reveals a handful of independent spots worth exploring

along this princely corridor.

20

How to

Getting there Sloane Square Station (on the Underground’s District and Circle

Line) places you at the top of King’s Road. Buses along the road can shuttle you

to specific areas.

Rock and frocks Shop one of the pioneers of British punk fashion at World’s

End, the original boutique of designer icon Vivienne Westwood.

Nights out Though the evening hours see most fashion shops and galleries

closed, it is the best time to soak in the road’s buzzy dining and cocktail bar

scene.

š

Blooming

Season

King’s Road is one of

the best locations to

witness Chelsea in

Bloom (chelseain

bloom.co.uk), anannual,

neighbourhood-

wide spectacle of

storefront floral

arrangements. Held

in May and lasting

a week, the free art

show competition

sees several King’s

Road shops and cafes

outdoing one another

with elaborate, vivid

botanical displays.

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A few metres from

King’s Road is John

Sandoe Books, a

charming, old-fashioned

independent bookshop

with a humanities-leaning

collection; it regularly

hosts book launches and

author talks.

01

Catch a community play

– and a schedule of other

activities such as family baking

and exercise classes – at the

renovated Chelsea Theatre,

based along World’s End Place.

05

London’s leading

purveyor of Native

American jewellery

and decor, Wilde Ones

has traded directly

with tribal artisans

since 1987. Find

stone-carved animals,

energy tools and tarot-

reading services.

04

Cadogan Arms, a pub with

an almost 140-year pedigree,

emerges refurbished with

timber panelling, an elevated

food program and Sunday

roasts intact. Thursday nights

features live music.

03

There are no farmers

at Sydney St’s Chelsea

Farmers Market; instead,

it is a quaint respite of out-

door dining and boutique

shops housed in wooden

and cargo containers.

02

FROM LEFT: WILLIAM BARTON/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, LOOP IMAGES LTD/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

KIEV.VICTOR/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

Left Palace of Westminster facade Centre

Keanu Reeves and Gary Oldman in Francis

Ford Coppola's Bram Stoker's Dracula

(1992) Right Highgate Cemetery

KENSINGTON

&

HYDE

PARK ESSAY

104

Romantic

Gothic

London

WHY LONDON GOTHIC

IS BOTH PAST AND

PRESENT

Faced with unprecedented

change, including a

population explosion

and deadly epidemics

like cholera, romanticism

prevailed over radical

ideologies (communism,

socialism and anarchism).

The sacrifices of

industrialisation taught

19th-century Victorians

to revere beauty and

whatever makes your

heart race.

By Julia Robson

Julia is a fashion journalist. Here she

explores how London is a time travel-

ler’s paradise, well suited to vampires

and lovers of vintage.

Horace Walpole’s stylised novel The Castle of Otranto (1764)

initiated‘Gothic’into the genre of literature. Tropes like sus-

pense, mystery, gloom, entrapment, heightened emotions

and hysteria led to bodice-ripping Brontë blockbusters: Jane

Eyre by Charlotte Brontë and Wuthering Heights, by her

sister Emily (both published in 1847). Mary Shelley’s 1818

spine-tingling masterpiece, Frankenstein, would resonate

with an audience processing chilling scientific possibilities.

Previously,‘Gothic’had referred solely to the pointed arch/

turret/spire architecture of the 13th to 16th centuries.‘The

Gothic Revival’, or High Victorian Gothic, became all the rage

during the peak of industrialisation (1860–90). This includes

London landmarks such as the Palace of Westminster, which

looks medieval but was built at the same time as the Under-

ground (1860s).

During the most dynamic, inventive and enterprising

eras in British history, fear of a disappearing green and

pleasant England – and the dark threat of what might take

its place – led to the creation of curiously anachronistic

narratives and religious morals. Of course, with new rules

comes the desire to break them. Which is where the fun

begins. Repressive sexuality, women’s rights, slavery and

pitiful working conditions, along with Britain’s obsession

with class and status, led to spectacular subversion.

Gothic has subsequently translated into film, from Francis

Ford Coppola’s 1992 Oscar-winning Dracula to Tim Burton’s

fantasies, The Twilight Saga and gaming (Final Fantasy). The

novel is not dead (yet). ELJames, author of Fifty Shades of

Grey, is said to have studied Gothic male characters to per-

fect her diabolical Christian Grey character. An undercurrent

of sexual tension reflects then-fashionable theories of Freud

JUST

ANOTHER

PHOTOGRAPHER/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

PHOTO

12/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

KENSINGTON

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105

Fear of a disappearing

green and pleasant

England led to the

creation of curiously

anachronistic narratives

and religious morals.

and Jung’s‘Jekyll & Hyde’human behaviours. Victorians were

called the‘Last Romantics’. As we enter the fourth industrial rev-

olution and its blurred boundaries of physical and virtual worlds,

we can imagine them smiling at us from beyond the grave.

With fog, Jack the Ripper,

carriage wheels on cobbles

and danger lurking, London

is the perfect Gothic setting,

as John Landis’comic horror,

American Werewolf in London

(1981), can testify. So much

of the gritty capital feels like a

time warp because Victori-

an buildings form much of

the housing stock. You can

imagine Sherlock Holmes sleuthing at 221b Baker Street or Van

Helsing heading off to ghostly Highgate Cemetery to drive a

stake through the heart of the vampire Lucy Westenra (as told

in Bram Stoker’s Dracula, 1897). You can visit a painting of Pre-

Raphaelite poster girl Elizabeth Siddal, Dante Gabriel Rossetti’s

flame-haired wife, at the Guildhall Art Gallery then hop on the bus

to Highgate Cemetery where she is buried.

‘I love old things. I need things that have lived,’declared fashion

designer and Biba founder Barbara Hulanicki, who reinvented

Victoriana with her Biba boutique (1964–76). Fashion historian

Tony Glenville believes the British royal family are key also. Queen

Victoria triggered the cult of black. The off-shoulder‘Revenge

dress’, designed by Christina Stambolian and worn by Diana, Prin-

cess of Wales (1994), vies for the most iconic Gothic outfit ever,

rivalled only by her silk taffeta Royal wedding dress (1981), with

its leg o’mutton sleeves, 25-foot train and 153-yard tulle veil.

R

Jack the Ripper

& Gothic

Fashion Horror

In his definitive book, The

Victorians (2003),AN Wilson

writes of the‘pornographic

fascination of the Jack the

Ripper murders’. Alexander

McQueen’s Central Saint

Martins 1992 graduate

collection, entitled‘Jack the

Ripper Stalks His Victims’,

saw the son of a London

cabbie explode onto the

international fashion stage. In

it he used locks of hair sewn

into garments, a reference to

19th-century sex workers who

would sell their hair.‘I find

beauty in the grotesque,’he

once said. McQueen’s darkly

Gothic aesthetic took inspi-

ration from Victorian mental

asylums, circus freaks, music

halls, crinolines and corsets.

a Artefacts & Exhibits

Victoria & Albert Museum

Affectionately known as the V&A, this essen-

tial site along the famed Exhibition Rd is the

world’s largest decorative arts museum, with

more than two million objects spread over

seven floors.

National Army Museum

Learn about the trials, feats and global impact

of the British Army in this profound collec-

tion of galleries based alongside the Royal

Hospital Chelsea. There are child-friendly

sections, too.

Natural History Museum

One of London’s premier family attractions.

Gawk at a blue-whale skeleton suspended

from the ceiling, confront lifelike dinosaurs

and see millions of insects in this wildly

intriguing museum on Exhibition Rd.

Science Museum

Feed your sense of wonder with the family at

this museum on Exhibition Rd. Beyond the

impressive science artefacts collection are

flight simulators, live experiment shows and

an IMAX theatre.

H Great Meals

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal

£££

The culinary flagship of Mandarin Oriental

Hyde Park, next to Knightsbridge Station,

is one of the world’s foremost fine-dining

temples. Book well ahead for Blumenthal’s

Michelin-starred, history-obsessed food

experience.

Claude Bosi at Bibendum

£££

An enormous stained-glass Bibendum, aka

‘Michelin Man’, overlooks this airy Chelsea

dining room – formerly the tyre company’s

headquarters – where chef Bosi creates

exquisite haute French fare.

Regency Café

£

This ‘greasy spoon’ institution between

Pimlico and Westminster has been a no-frills

favourite since the 1940s. It’s one of the best

places for an English breakfast.

Phat Phuc Noodle Bar

£

However amusing this pan-Asian restaurant’s

name might be (it translates as‘Happy Buddha’

in Vietnamese), this cheap gem tucked off

King’s Rd offers delicious pho and more for

around £12.

Market Halls Victoria

£

Head inside this trendy food hall for a plethora

of tasty, wallet-friendly stalls, then take to the

spacious terrace for bang-on views of Victoria

Station across the street.

Pantechnicon

££

There are five minimalist-chic floors to

explore at this so-called ‘village’ of Nordic-

Japanese cuisine and culture in Belgravia,

including a rooftop bar, Japanese bottle shop

and a fusion restaurant.

Blue whale skeleton, Natural History Museum

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Scan to find more things to

do in Kensington & Hyde

Park online

Rabbit

££

Savour bucolic farm-to-fork eating in the

heart of Chelsea’s Kings Rd. It’s a culinary

showcase of West Sussex county, from where

sustainably raised livestock and several wines

on the menu are sourced.

ħ Tea Time

The Goring

£££

A classic among classics, in a hotel beloved

by the Royal Family. Choose the Bollinger

Afternoon Tea – with strawberries and cream,

and rosé – for an extra dollop of fancy.

The Kensington

£££

Tea as fine art is served up at The Kensing-

ton, where carefully curated desserts have

been named after some of the world’s most

renowned artists.

The Berkeley Cafe

£££

Located in a five-star Knightsbridge hotel, this

is the ultimate afternoon tea for the pastry

connoisseur to come and enjoy the curated

Cedric Grolet selection.

Đ Spa Breaks

The Lanesborough Club & Spa

London’s most exclusive and lavishly ap-

pointed hotel wellness club, based in Hyde

Park Corner. Though covertly advertised, day

passes and non-member spa packages are

available for bookings.

Ushvani

Behind a heavy wooden door near Sloane

Square is a sumptuous Malaysian-themed

day retreat. Though open to all, the steam

room and spa-pool facilities are for women

only.

Ilapothecary Spa

Sound baths and customised body treat-

ments are the norm for the eponymous

brand’s flagship on Kensington High St, set in

a homely wood-clad space.

r Style File

Harvey Nichols

Oft overlooked for Harrods a mere block away

in Knightsbridge, this department store is the

less touristy option for luxury fashion, beauty

and gifts, plus restaurants on the 5th floor.

Sellier

Shop luxe for (a little) less at a high-end pre-

loved clothing store on Belgravia’s Lowndes

St, carrying labels from Balenciaga to Dior.

Eccleston Yards

Since its 2018 opening, this open-air destina-

tion has brought much-needed liveliness to

the quietly elegant Belgravia neighbourhood.

Find boutique fashion stores, local restau-

rants and yoga studios centred around a

mural-lined courtyard.

Eccleston Yards

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Experience

Clerkenwell,

Shoreditch &

Spitalfields

online

 Trip Builder (p110)

 Unearth History in

Clerkenwell (p112)

 Catch a Gig in

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Spitalfields (p116)

 Shoreditch Street

Art (p118)

 Listings (p120)

CLERKENWELL,

SHOREDITCH &

SPITALFIELDS

HISTORY | FOOD | HISTORY

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6

C L E R K E N W E L L

H O L B O R N

Blackfriars

Bridge

Millennium

Bridge

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FROM LEFT: ALENA VEASEY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

TUPUNGATO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, CKTRAVELS.COM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PREVIOUS SPREAD: CKTRAVELS.COM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Spend a day at Exmouth

Market, an underrated

foodie destination.

Ġ 10 min walk from

Angel Station.

Enjoy an afternoon walk-

ing around Clerkenwell

and learn about the area’s

1000-year-old history.

Ġ 4 min walk from

Farringdon Station

Rooted in history but with a

bunch of modern live-music venues,

pioneering bars, independent retailers

and a thriving food culture, this end of

London refuses to play it small. Some

suggest that the neighbourhood has

lost its edge, but it continues to pull in

the big crowds.

Neighbourhood Notes

Best for Live music, food and bars. There’s a mix

of restaurants, cafes, trucks, markets and stalls

serving food from around the world.

Transport Get here on the Northern, Central,

District and Hammersmith & City Lines on the Tube.

Getting around Best explored on foot or bike;

easier to get around the one-way systems.

Tip This area is great for a night out. Londoners

rarely party in the big city, opting for smaller,

quirkier venues such as those found in this

neighbourhood.

CLERKENWELL,

SHOREDITCH &

SPITALFIELDS

Trip Builder

CLERKENWELL,

SHOREDITCH

&

SPITALFIEDS BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

110

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S P I T A L F I E L D S

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Eat, drink and be merry

at Queen of Hoxton,

with disco DJs at week-

ends, film and theatre

on weekdays and great

food all the time.

Ġ 10 min walk from

Shoreditch High Street

Overground Station

Order a cocktail at TT, a rooftop bar

and restaurant with a fresh view of

London’s skyline.

Ġ 10 min walk from Old Street Station

Shop in independent boutiques

and taste freshly cooked food

from the world kitchens at Old

Spitalfields Market.

Ġ 5 min walk from Liverpool

Street Station

Bring your own booze

to Tayyabs, a Punjabi

restaurant where

there’s often a queue.

Ġ 6 min walk from

Whitechapel Station

CLERKENWELL,

SHOREDITCH

&

SPITALFIEDS EXPERIENCES

JOE

DUNCKLEY/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

112

Unearth History in

CLERKENWELL

FOODIE | HISTORIC | UNDISCOVERED

With leafy streets, historic buildings, the Sadler’s Wells Theatre and an

underrated food market, Clerkenwell is filled with surprises at every turn. Here

you will find a women’s prison turned into a school, an art-deco town hall and the

remains of a 12th-century hospital built for pilgrims on their way to Jerusalem.

21

How to

Getting here Angel Tube Station on the Northern Line is nearest for Clerken-

well, plus Farringdon Tube station on the Circle, Hammersmith & City and

Metropolitan Lines.

When to go Clerkenwell Design Week happens each year in May and showcases

UK and international independent architectural and design brands.

Top tip Don’t miss a meal at the wonderful Sessions Arts Club in Clerkenwell.

H

Exmouth

Market

Clerkenwell’s

Exmouth Market

(pictured) is all about

food, with street-food

stalls selling Indian,

Mediterranean and

a variety of other

cuisines lining the

street on weekdays.

But you’d better get

here before 1pm –

the food sells out

quickly. The market,

which takes its name

from the very street

it’s on, comes alive

in the evening as

restaurants start

their dinner service.

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The Old Finsbury

Town Hall (Rosebery Ave)

is a mix of baroque and

art-nouveau styles, with

a beautiful glass and iron

canopy at the entrance. It’s

not open to the public.

01

While no one knows

who wrote ‘Pop Goes the

Weasel’, the line ‘Up and

down the City Road, In and

out the Eagle...’ almost

certainly refers to The

Eagle pub in Clerkenwell.

05

A former smokehouse

turned restaurant, St John

(26 St John St) serves

an unmissable seasonal

British menu, which is

updated daily.

04

Smithfield Market isn’t a

conventional tourist site – this

is where public executions once

took place and men could sell

their wives when divorce was too

expensive. Today it’s a wholesale

meat market.

03

St John’s Gate

(26 St John’s La)

was the entrance

to the Grand Priory

of the Order of the

Hospital of St John.

The museum here

is open 9.30am to

5pm Wednesday to

Saturday.

02

FROM LEFT: I WEI HUANG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, EUGENE REGIS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

CLERKENWELL,

SHOREDITCH

&

SPITALFIEDS EXPERIENCES

Top Jack Broadbent performing

at the Blues Kitchen Bottom

Queen of Hoxton

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Colours

The Blues

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Whether it’s classical, jazz, soul

or electro pop, you will find a music

venue in Shoreditch that caters to

your taste. There are live bands, DJs,

cabaret shows, comedy and even open-

mic nights to be found here. Very few

places require tickets in advance so you

can simply join in on any given night

that takes your fancy.

No planning required

The length and breadth of

Shoreditch is brimming with

live-music venues, clubs

hosting DJs and cabaret

shows – and you can ex-

perience it with little or no

planning. While some major

events require purchasing

tickets in advance, it is

possible to walk in on the

night at most places. And,

as venues are close to each

other, it’s entirely possible to

have pre-drinks on a rooftop,

catch an early live gig and

then finish with a late-night

cabaret show – all on the

same night.

How to

Getting there Old Street Tube station (Northern

Line), Shoreditch High Street Overground station.

Night buses 23, N11 and N133 run from nearby

Liverpool St.

When to go Shoreditch begins to buzz from around

6pm even on weeknights. Weekends are particularly

good for early drinks and most places open for food

from around midday.

Top tip Bar- and club-hop your way around

Shoreditch. Most venues are within walking dis-

tance of each other.

Catch a Gig in

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Party all night The Blues

Kitchen (134–146 Curtain

Rd) has a consistently great

evening line-up of live blues

and soul music – most gigs

are free so just walk in, while

XOYO (32–37 Cowper St),

with its high-quality DJs spin-

ning at the weekends and

artists and bands through the

week, increasingly holds its

own. Is the Queen of Hoxton

(1 Curtain Rd) a pub or is it

a club? No one really cares

when its two fun-filled floors

host cutting-edge disco DJs

at weekends.

Drag it out A multi-art bar

and club, Colours (2–4 Hox-

ton Sq) has a brilliantly inclu-

sive schedule of live gigs and

events, such as drag disco,

cabaret and live music from

new and big-name artists

(buy tickets in advance). Go

Wednesday or Thursday for

£5 cocktails all night long.

ĳ Late-Night Jazz

Ninety One Living Room

(91 Brick La) in the Truman

Brewery is an acclaimed

late-night jazz club with live

music. Stop by on a Monday

or Tuesday for all-day

happy-hour prices. Check the

schedule for special events

such as the London Jazz

Festival.

116

Top Pizza truck, Old Spitalfieds

Market Bottom Ethiopian food,

Old Spitalfields Market

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It’s hard to imagine that

Spitalfields was once the home of ‘the

worst street in London’ – Dorset St

– where Jewish, Irish and Huguenot

immigrants lived in squalid conditions

and Jack the Ripper murdered three

of his victims. Today, immigrant

communities continue to make this

neighbourhood their home and the

thriving restaurant scene here has

them to thank.

Spitalfields is the perfect

place to try a bit of every-

thing, with restaurants, food

trucks and street-food stalls

plating up cuisine from all

over. For a taste of Jamaica,

head to Cafe Caribbean (Old

Spitalfields Market, Brush-

field St), which serves home-

made regional dishes from St

Catherine, as well as classic

dishes such as ackee and salt

fish and rice and peas. Tayy-

abs (83–89 Fieldgate St) has

been serving the community

mouth-watering lamb chops,

Punjabi curries, naans and

grills at the same location

since 1972. It gets very busy

here in the evenings and

How to

Getting here Aldgate East and Whitechapel Tube

Stations on the District, Hammersmith & City and

Elizabeth Lines (Whitechapel only).

Getting around The area is cycle-friendly but best

explored on foot. Buses are frequent and connect to

Central London and beyond. Cabs are also plentiful

and an efficient way to get around.

Top tip Old Spitalfields Market is great for artisan

food and souvenirs all made by small, independent

businesses.

Taste Culture in

SPITALFIELDS

HISTORY | FOOD | DIVERSITY

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weekends so be prepared to

wait for a table or a takeaway.

Bring your own wine and

spirits.

Vegans will love Merkamo

Ethiopian (Old Spitalfields

Market, Horner Sq), which

serves a variety of award-

winning flavours and tradi-

tional dishes with a twist.

The menu is divided up into

low-carb high-protein, half

and half, and green plates.

Nilly’s Turkish Kitchen (Old

Spitalfields Market, Horner

Sq East) serves traditional

Turkish wraps as they’d be

sold and eaten on the streets

of Istanbul. Wraps are filled

with seasoned meat and

fish, but it’s the meat-free

gözleme option with cheese

and potato that is a crowd

favourite.

6 Brick Lane

Brick Lane is unmissable

for its renowned indepen-

dent curry houses, vintage

clothing stores, art galleries

and live music venues.

Sundays are particularly

great here for mixing with

Londoners browsing for

vintage or having a beer

alfresco when the weather

is mild. The neighbourhood

attracts a creative crowd that

is incredibly inclusive.

01 IMAGE SUPPLIED BY MOHAMMED ALI ©, 02 IMAGE SUPPLIED BY ENDOFTHELINELDN ©, 03 IMAGE SUPPLIED BY JAY KAES © – SEE MORE AT JAYKAES.COM

04 IMAGE SUPPLIED BY LUAP ©, 05 IMAGE SUPPLIED BY ARTIST WOSKERSKI ©, 06 IMAGE SUPPLIED BY ZABOU ©, 07 IMAGE SUPPLIED BY GLOBAL STREET ART ©,

NEW AFRICA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

01 Mateer Tan

Brick Lane’s Banglatown’s only

mural by a Bangladeshi artist,

Mohammed Ali, evokes the

migrant’s pang for their homeland

on the wall of Hopetown St.

02 Black Lives Matter

Jim Vision’s Black woman with

psychedelic-patterned afro

appeared on Whitby St following

the Black Lives Matter movement.

03 Beyond the Illusion

Spanish artist Jay Kaes’interplay

of reality and tech shows a

woman’s face‘glitching’on the

corner of Hanbury St.

118

Shoreditch

STREET ART

01

02

03

04 Hope

The trademark of artist

LUAP shows a deflated

pink bear, flowers

in hand on a bench

under the bridge on

Bateman's Row.

05 Octopus Eating

an Ice Lolly

Painted outside the

Petticoat Lane Market

on Toynbee St by London-

based Polish artist

Woskerski, who special-

ises in surrealism.

06 Audrey Hepburn

Painted above Brick

Lane Brasserie, this is

the signature style of

London-based French

artist Zabou, painted in

2020 and inspired by a

photo of Audrey Hepburn

by Yousuf Karsh.

07 Romeo & Juliet

This gorgeous mural on

New Inn Broadway, by

Global Street Art, marks

where Shakespeare’s

tragic love story was

first performed around

1591.

119

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06

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05

H Delightful Dining

Sessions Arts Club

££

An unmissable dining experience in Clerken-

well. It’s a decadent dream of a space with

stripped-back walls and velvet curtains where

whimsical dishes such as clams, riesling and

lovage are served.

Som Saa Thai Restaurant

£

Regional dishes from northern Thailand such

as kua kling plaa (stir-fried mackerel with

lemongrass) have made Som Saa a favourite

in Shoreditch.

Smoking Goat

£

Inspired by late-night canteens in Bangkok,

Smoking Goat in Shoreditch has an entirely

traceable menu of British and Thai products

and suppliers. Try dishes like red sambal

mackerel grilled in banana leaf.

Christina’s Shoreditch

£

An all-day cafe great for coffee and cocktails.

Order an espresso, chai latte or Japanese

moriuchi koucha black tea accompanied by a

sweet treat from the Chestnut Bakery.

Leroy

££

This Shoreditch restaurant headed by two

sommeliers and with a focus on mindfully

simple dining was awarded a Michelin star a

year after it opened in 2018.

Map Maison

£

A premium cocktail bar on Kingsland Rd in

Haggerston with great mixologists and a

curated Japanese cocktail menu. You can also

enjoy all-day tapas, brunch or a ridiculously

good afternoon tea here.

Rapsa

££

This incredible Filipino fusion restaurant in

Hoxton offers a fantastic bottomless weekend

brunch. It lasts for 100 minutes and includes

Prosecco, lychee daiquiri and a variety of

drinks along with a brunch dish.

F Cooke

£

Experience a traditional East End pie, mash

and gravy at this Hoxton cafe. It’s one of the

few places left that still serves old classic

dishes such as jellied eels.

E Pellicci

£

Few places reflect authentic British cafe

culture as much as Pellicci’s in Bethnal Green.

Grab yourself a classic English breakfast or

an Italian favourite such as lasagne.

H High-End Restaurants

Moro

£££

A busy restaurant in Clerkenwell serving a

seasonal menu of North African and Spanish

dishes. Get lucky and try the seared pigeon

breast with garlic puree and sun-dried

peppers.

F Cooke

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Scan to find more things to

do in Clerkenwell, Shoreditch

& Spitalfields online

St John

£££

Around the corner from Smithfield Market,

this restaurant serves wonderfully British

dishes such as whole roast pig (£600 to feed

15) and hake and leek pie. The building was

a former smokehouse, and barring a lick of

paint, it has changed very little.

Bourne & Hollingsworth Buildings

£££

Dishes are created from seasonal British

produce such as smoked halibut and seared

venison at this part restaurant and part green-

house in Clerkenwell.

Galvin La Chapelle

£££

The Galvin brothers have put together a

special dining experience in a wonderful

neoclassical building in Spitalfields, where

they serve up traditional French fare with a

modern twist.

Brat

£££

You’ll feel like you’re sitting in the kitchen in

this Michelin-starred food fest serving tradi-

tional Basque country cooking in the heart

of Shoreditch; the signature dish is a turbot

cooked on an iron grill.

ĩ Beer & Food

The Exmouth Arms

££

You can’t miss this green-tiled Victorian pub,

which gave the market here its name. Find

old-fashioned chip butties on the same menu

as kimchi arancini and wash it all down with

pale ale from the tap.

Coin Laundry

££

This spacious bar and kitchen serves seasonal

food with craft and draft beer. A great place to

enjoy a traditional British Sunday roast.

The Angelic

££

A fabulously spacious pub for a great British

menu and Sunday roast with good beer.

There’s an upstairs lounge, plus outdoor

seating for milder weather.

TT

£

The humble liquor store entrance to TT gives

nothing away of the spectacular view of

London from its rooftop bar. Enjoy smoked ox

cheek croquettes with Sasa’s rum punch or a

White Lies.

London Shuffle Club

£

A great evening of either lane shuffle or table

shuffle can be had at the London Shuffle Club.

Enjoy a pizza and beer with friends as you

battle it out in a classic game of shuffle.

r Vintage Finds

Rokit

Rokit has been a vintage clothing store in

London since the 1980s. Rummage around

for extra-special designer finds, denim and

military wear at this iconic store.

The Exmouth Arms

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EAST LONDON

CULTURE | MARKETS | DRINKING

 Trip Builder (p124)

 East End Market

Weekend (p126)

 Hackney’s Wick-ed

Brews (p128)

 Brick Lane’s Sylheti

Soul (p130)

 Cycle London’s Wilds

(p132)

 A Day Out in Dalston

& Clapton (p134)

 Out on the Town in

Dalston (p136)

 Listings (p138)

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Be it the docks or Whitechapel

at the edge of the City of London, this

was always ‘migrant London’ – now it’s

just uber-cool London, where those

decades of cultural concocting have

birthed deliciously exotic foodie

markets in Brick Lane, edgy drinking

spots near Hackney Wick and the most

fascinating history and heritage.

Neighbourhood Notes

Best for Indo-Asian culture, busy markets and

cutting-edge microbreweries.

How long Give yourself four days.

Getting around Use the Tube, buses and TfL bikes.

Tip If you’re on a budget look for the cheap local

markets, like the one on Whitechapel Rd, where

everything costs a lot less.

EAST

LONDON

Trip Builder

Dare to eat one of the spicy curries

at Graam Bangla on Brick Lane.

Ġ 5 min walk from Aldgate

East Station

Explore the richly

layered history of Brick

Lane in the centre of

which is the old Truman

Brewery.

Ġ 2 min walk from

Aldgate East Station

Grab a floral bargain at

the colourful Columbia

Road Flower Market.

Ġ 5 min walk from

Cambridge Heath Station

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C A N A R Y

W H A R F

R O T H E R H I T H E

L I M E H O U S E

B O W

H A C K N E Y

M I L E

E N D

P O P L A R

London

Stadium

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Sip on a locally brewed craft

beer while sat on a canal-side

terrace in Hackney Wick.

Ġ 5 min walk from Hackney

Wick Station

Sit down to a tasting menu

inspired by European and

South American cuisines at

Michelin-starred Da Terra.

Ġ 3 min walk from Cam-

bridge Heath Station

Load up on fresh produce

and tasty cheap eats at

Whitechapel Market.

Ġ 1 min walk from

Whitechapel Station

Learn the history of

London’s docks at the

family-friendly London

Museum Docklands.

Ġ 5 min walk from West

India Quay DLR Station

Learn how local Bangladeshis

beat fascism at Altab Ali Park.

Ġ 4 min walk from Aldgate

East Station

Top Bread stall, Broadway Market

Bottom Antique stall, Brick

Lane's Sunday Market

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Market

Columbia Road

Flower Market

Broadway

Market

London

Fields

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0

500 m

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The East End of London has

always been famous for its markets,

and these three between Brick Lane

and Hackney are among the best of the

modern incarnations. Within walking

distance of each other, they’re a great

way to spend a weekend, buying

everything from ‘cheap as chips’ plants

to vintage clothing and lunching in

some of the best ethnic foodie markets

in London.

Saturday There is a buzzing

atmosphere at the cute little

‘Victorian-era’ Broadway

Market. Start by browsing

the vintage racks near the

southern end then pause

for Vietnamese coffee as

you listen to the busker in

the middle. Next, grab some

artisan bread and olives for

home and a delicious Indian

thali or vegan falafel wrap for

your lunch, as you make your

way out and across to London

Fields where you can join

the others who bought their

picnic in the market.

Sunday Once a flea market

for locals selling unwanted

goods, Brick Lane’s Sunday

How to

Getting there Shoreditch High Street Overground

Station or buses 8, 26, 78 or 149 for the Sunday

markets. For Broadway Market, take bus 394.

When to go Broadway Market: 9am–5pm Saturday;

Brick Lane’s Sunday Market 10am–3pm Sunday;

Columbia Road Flower Market: 8am–2pm Sunday.

Rainy days Head for the nearby covered Spitalfields

Market (open daily), which is also laden with quirky

stalls and food trucks.

EAST END

Market Weekend

SHOPPING | CULTURE | MARKETS

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Market is now one of the hip-

pest Sunday spots in London.

As well as being home to the

largest halal foodie market in

the East End, here you'll find

quirky art, antiques, leather

goods, vintage clothes and

everything else we expect

a modern market to offer,

before following the traffic

north to Columbia Road

Flower Market. You should

first wander the hidden alley-

ways and courtyards, before

elbowing through the crowds

in search of that large potted

plant at a knock-down price.

Columbia Rd traders have

retained their ol’ East End

market charm, so expect to

hear them yelling their wares

long before you see them.

Once you’ve got that plant,

splash out on a designer pot

to put it in from one of the

surrounding shops.

6

Brick Lane

Beigels

No visit to Brick Lane is

complete without stepping

into the famous Beigel Bake

(159 Brick La), which serves

easily the best and most

reasonably priced salt-beef

beigel in all of East London,

as well as a selection of

scrumptiously fresh cakes.

You’ll know which one it is

when you see the queue.

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LONDON EXPERIENCES

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Nowhere in East London has as many hipsters downing pints of craft ale

by the water. There are more microbreweries in the old canal-side warehouses

here than you can shake a freshly fermented can of local brew at. It used to be

a hidden patch only the cool kids knew about; not anymore – expect crowds at

the weekends.

Hackney’s Wick-ed

BREWS

DRINKING | BARS | BREWING

25

How to

Getting there Hackney

Wick Overground Station

is walking distance from

all the action.

When to go There’s a real

party atmosphere along

the waterside during the

warmer months when

revellers stay late into the

night at canal-side ter-

races or take their beers

onto the grassy slopes.

Non-alcoholic brews

Look out for the Kompas-

sion Kombucha bicycle

bar if you’d rather some-

thing locally fermented

(Chinese tea) that isn’t

alcoholic.

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LONDON EXPERIENCES

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London

Stadium

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Canal-side drinking Hugely popular Grow is a canal-side

community cafe by day, party central by night; lights flash

and a bassline bounces off the water as the Wick’s cool crowd

arrive to dance the night away. This place gets busy. Equally

popular and just a few doors down is pub stroke restaurant

stroke art gallery Number 90, home of great live music, and

the Milk Float, a docked barge where you can eat and drink

outdoors year-round.

For more laid-back watering holes, All My Friends is great

for live DJs at the weekends and has a vinyl record store on

the ground floor. Meanwhile, the Beer Merchants Tap is very

chilled, serves excellent Belgian craft beer and has a food

truck rock up outside serving delicious gourmet burgers.

The Wick’s micro-brewers Crate Brewery overlooks the

canal, has its own brewery and serves deliciously creative

pizzas to soak up all that alcohol you will no doubt drink here.

Howling Hops Brewery & Tank Bar is legendary around

these parts for its range of ‘generously hopped’ beers that are

brewed on-site; the most popular is the Tropical Deluxe Pale

Ale and the House IPA. Also here is the Tank Bar, which claims

to be the ‘UK’s first dedicated Tank Bar’. Here the on-site

brewed beer is poured directly out of 10 huge tanks – yes, you

read that right.

U

Shop

Sustainable

Every weekend from

10am to 3pm the area

around Barge East

Restaurant turns into a

small sustainable local

market selling gourmet

cheese, artisan bread

baked by the Wick’s

very own Building Four

Micro Bakery and,

of course, beer from

one of the numerous

microbreweries.

Top Riverside bars, Hackney Wick

Bottom Howling Hops Brewery &

Tank Bar

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130

Brick Lane’s

SYLHETI SOUL

CULTURE | FOOD | HERITAGE

This trail gets to the heart of the community that made Brick Lane famous

for its curries, the Sylhetis of Bangladesh, whose ingenuity in the early 1960s

and ’70s led to them taking over the UK with their hybrid Indian food – which is

today served up in restaurants all over – and, at one point, deemed the country’s

national cuisine.

26

How to

Getting there The nearest Tube and Overground stations are Aldgate East and

Shoreditch High Street. Popular buses serving the area include the 25 and 8.

When to go Sunday; combine with a wander through Brick Lane’s lively food

and vintage market.

Bangladeshi bazaar Stocked with desi produce just like an early-morning

bazaar in Sylhet, Taj Stores is where you’ll find that strange vegetable you ate in

Graam Bangla.

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Language of

the Lane

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fact that the Sylhetis

of Bangladesh speak

their own distinct

language and not

Bengali. Known as

Sylheti (hence their

name) it is very much

an oral language

now, as it is no longer

written down or read,

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FROM TOP: MAZIARZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, CHRIS LAWRENCE TRAVEL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Altab Ali Park is named

after the Sylheti textile worker

murdered nearby by racists

in 1978. His story inspired the

fight back against fascists by

local Sylheti migrant men.

01

For local Sylheti culture, the

Kobi Nazrul Centre, named after

Bangladesh’s national poet, is the

place to enjoy performances, lec-

tures and cultural events organised

by the local Bangladeshi community.

05

Brick Lane Mosque sits in a

fascinating building that started

off as a church in 1743, became a

synagogue in 1891 and has been

a mosque since 1976. It is also

home to the hippest minaret in

the country.

04

In the middle of the lane

is Graam Bangla, the best

of the new eateries serving

authentic Sylheti food. You

probably won’t recognise

the dishes here – but then,

that’s why you came.

03

The southern entrance to

Brick Lane is marked by the

green and red Banglatown

Arch and the stunning Mateer

Taan Mural to commemorate

Bangladesh’s 50th anniversary.

02

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©

132

CYCLE

London’s Wilds

CYCLING | NATURE | WILDLIFE

Snaking its way in from the lush Hertfordshire countryside, the Lea Valley

enters London with its pleasant network of highly cycle-able canal towpaths,

marshes and wetlands to offer a delightfully rural experience in the heart of

northeast London. Stunning vistas over acres of greenery and water brimming

with local wildlife await exploration on two wheels.

27

How to

Getting there Hackney Wick’s Overground Station is a great place to start,

with plenty of refreshment options around this area, too.

When to go If you can, avoid the weekends when the towpaths and pathways

can get busy, especially during warm weather.

Waterside pint There are a host of pleasant canal-side pubs to enjoy a pint; the

Princess of Wales and the Anchor & Hope are particularly popular.

Ģ

The Canal

by Canoe

If you’d rather explore

the canal by drifting

gently along the

water, Moo Canoes,

based at the Milk Float,

sits on the canal as it

passes under White

Post Lane in Hackney

Wick. Canoes that

hold up to three

people can be rented

by the hour.

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FROM LEFT: CKTRAVELS.COM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, CKTRAVELS.COM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The Lea Canal

Towpath is your axis;

use it to get to the oth-

er places listed here.

Jump on at the bustling

strip near Hackney

Wick Station and then

head north.

01

For coffee and food options,

the Here East area is a good shout,

but if you want somewhere quieter

continue along the canal to the

Markfield Café in Markfield Park.

05

The award-winning

Walthamstow Wetlands offers

guided walks around its huge

reservoirs, which are home to

wildlife and migrating birds.

04

The Walthamstow Marshes

are home to grazing cows, lots of

bramble for picking blackberries

and a local riding centre where you

can stroke the beautiful horses.

03

Enter Hackney Marshes to

watch a football match on these

world-famous amateur pitches

before cycling a pleasant stretch

of the River Lea where, on hot

days, a paddle is recommended.

02

G

TORRES/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

PADMAYOGINI/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

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134

How to

Getting around Dalston

Junction and Dalston

Kingsland Overground

stations. Numerous

buses connect the two

boroughs.

When to go Ridley

Road Market: until 4pm

Monday to Saturday;

Chatsworth Road Market:

10am to 4pm Sunday.

Top tip Arrive early in the

day to avoid long queues,

which can be common

at pop-up restaurants in

the area.

A DAY OUT IN

Dalston & Clapton

FOOD | PUBLIC SPACES | OUTDOORS

28

The neighbourhoods of Dalston and Clapton can be found in the

smallest parts of the buzzing borough of Hackney. Feast on street food, browse

markets heaving with locals, immerse yourself in the middle of the close-

knit multicultural communities that live here, and finish with a much-loved

neighbourhood jazz bar.

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Vortex

Jazz Club

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Top Ridley Road Market Bottom

Dalston Eastern Curve Garden

EAST

LONDON EXPERIENCES

135

You haven’t really been to Dalston until you’ve been to Ridley

Road Market. If you’re not greeted by blasting reggae and

dancehall music when you arrive, then you need to keep

walking all the way through, passing by Sierra Leonean and

Ghanaian stores, stalls loaded with fresh produce bursting

with colour, and sellers repeating over and over: ‘A pound a

bowl!’ If you’re hungry, stop for an Indian or Middle Eastern

snack. The market comes to life from the crack of dawn, when

sellers set up shop; at night, the stalls are packed away and

the open area is left to local roller skaters.

The Chatsworth Road Market in Lower Clapton was revived

in 2010 after a 20-something-year hiatus; today the market

takes place from 10am to 4pm Sunday and you can find

everything from food stalls, fresh produce, bakery goods and

cheese, to crafts and clothing. From the market it’s just a short

work to Millsfields Park, Hackney Marshes and the River Lea.

Also nearby is Clapton Road, once known as ‘murder mile’

due to a spike in crime in the late ’90s and early 2000s. Today

its reputation has been revived and it’s a busy street where

you can get a haircut; buy a proper, vegan brunch at the

Mockapot; and buy a bottle of wine at Mr Singh’s (Just

Drinks, 58 Lower Clapton Rd), a well-known name on Clapton

Rd, with UK rap music playing to entertain passers-by.

œ

Top Open-Air

Experiences

Dalston Eastern Curve

Garden Founded in 2010

to provide more green

space for the local com-

munity, this lush garden

is free to visit and has a

cafe serving drinks and

homemade cakes.

Street art As you leave

the Eastern Curve Garden,

take a look at the Hackney

Peace Mural, where

people with different

ethnicities, cultures and

backgrounds surround

each other to form a co-

lourful carnival. The mural

was originally painted in

1985 by Ray Walker but

has since been restored.

Gillette Square You’ll

find many Dalston locals

hanging out here, and

just around the corner is

the one and only Vortex

Jazz Club, where great

vibes are guaranteed.

The jazz bar welcomes

countless music lovers

every week; you’ll even

find random pairs dancing

on the square on a warm

summer’s evening.

EAST

LONDON EXPERIENCES

136

WAYNE

TIPPETTS/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

Out on the Town in

DALSTON

SOUL | DIVERSITY | VIBRANCE

If your music playlist consists of alternative music, hip hop, new music or

a bit of everything, Dalston will offer pretty much any type of music night you’re

looking for, whether it be a chilled vibe or a night on the dance floor.

29

How to

Getting here Dalston Kingsland Overground Station is at the centre of things.

When to go Summer time brings a brighter energy and buzz, but you’re guar-

anteed to catch a vibe regardless of the season.

Tip You won’t be turned away from a Dalston or Clapton bar or club due to your

dress code. Trainers, flip-flops, pyjamas – Dalston nightlife has seen it all!

Ħ

More Night-

Time Options

Voodoo Ray’s More

than just a scrumptious

tasting pizza spot, this is

also a popular hangout

for creatives to chat

and mingle.

Brilliant Corners A

low-lit cosy Japanese bar

with wines and spirits ex-

ported from Japan. Some

nights feature DJs playing

soothing tunes to ease

you into the weekend.

Three Sheets The

sheets represent the

intensity of the alcohol,

so a one-sheet Rum

and Plum might get you

swaying but a three-sheet

Raspberry Marg will have

you up on the tables.

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Start your night with an

arthouse film at the art-deco

Rio Cinema (107 Kingsland

High St), in operation since

1901 and one of the few

remaining independent film

houses in East London.

01

Formerly Ruby’s, Corrochio’s

Cantina (76 Stoke Newington

Rd) is still a basement bar and

lounge but with uplifting Latin

decor, excellent cocktails, live

DJs and delicious Mexican food.

05

Head to Escudo

de Cuba (20 Stoke

Newington Rd) for

cocktails, tapas,

dancing and a taste of

Havana, with reggae-

ton and salsa playing

in the background.

04

EartH (11-17 Stoke Newing-

ton Rd) is the ultimate concert

and live performance venue with

new and popular international

artists, as well as a local bar to

immerse yourself in a range of

different music genres.

03

Istanbul Restaurant (9 Stoke

Newington Rd) may not have the

slickest shopfront, but the staff

are friendly and efficient, and dish-

es are tasty and freshly cooked.

02

H Michelin-Starred Dining

Da Terra

£££

Bethnal Green’s two-star Michelin restau-

rant is led by head chef Rafael Cagali who

serves up a pricey but stunning tasting menu

inspired by European and South American

cuisines.

Lyle’s

£££

One of the most relaxed Michelin-starred

restaurants around, close to Brick Lane, where

head chef James Lowe’s micro-seasonal dishes

are centred around classic British cuisine.

Behind

£££

Hackney’s Behind made headlines for being

open for only 20 days before getting its first

Michelin star, and it is all down to chef Andy

Beynon’s sustainable fish-focused menu.

S Local Markets

Whitechapel Market

Famous for its selection of exotic fruit,

vegetables and street food from Bangladesh,

this is a great place for spicy, cheap eats and

bargain market clothes.

Petticoat Lane

This market, one of London’s oldest, was

once famous for cheap textiles; these days

the ubiquitous food carts and boutiques

stalls have also crept in.

Bethnal Green Market

Like its sister market in Whitechapel, this

daily market is a combination of fresh, exotic

produce popular with the local Bangladeshi

community and cheap market clothes.

Roman Market

A classic East End market once popular for

low-cost knock-offs of big-brand clothing.

Today those stalls are increasingly vying for

space with gourmet food and boutique stalls.

H Ethnic Eats

Shalamar Kebab House

£

Everyone will tell you to go to Tayyabs, but if

you really like your Pakistani food authentic,

no-frills and served in a place still frequented

by locals, this is the place.

Kar Woo

£

The local Bangladeshis have kept this takeaway

spot a secret for too long, but the queue says it

all. The food is a spicy Bangladeshi twist on

classic Chinese dishes – trust us on this one.

Red Chilli

£

Red Chilli is every bit the classic British-Indian

restaurant serving high-quality Anglo-Indian

classics like chicken tikka masala at great

prices away from the tourist traps.

Etles Uyghur

£

You’ll have to make your way out to Waltham-

stow for this one, but you won’t regret it as

you sit in what feels like the owner’s cosy

dining room to enjoy the most authentic

Uyghur (Sino-Turkic) food in London.

Petticoat Lane

TK

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EAST

LONDON REVIEWS

138

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

Shinwari

£

It’s quite the trek out east, but this is our favour-

ite Afghan spot in East London. Sit cross-legged

on a raised platform and await your steaming

mound of kabuli pulaw and delicately spiced

mince-meat dish, keema palak.

Nakhon Thai

£

In a stunning location overlooking the royal

docks, Nakhon offers authentic Thai dishes

including massaman curry and sticky mango

rice, making it a tasty and potentially roman-

tic dining experience.

r Vintage Vibes

Beyond Retro

One of the earliest and original vintage stores

in the East End, Beyond Retro hit the head-

lines because of alleged celebrity patronage.

Housed in a huge warehouse off the main

Brick Lane strip, there’s a lot of choice here.

Hunky Dorey Vintage

Sitting opposite the famous Beigel Bake,

Hunky Dorey is more refined, and classy and

thus popular with vintage aficionados who are

looking for that used je ne sais quoi.

Brick Lane Vintage Market

A great array of stalls and shops in a concen-

trated area, where crowds swell every Sunday

and so do the prices; so while it’s not the best

for a bargain, it does have a great buzz about it.

Backyard Market

Browse this market for handmade jewellery,

vintage items and creative gifts. All stalls are

held by independent traders who assemble

here every weekend.

a Museums & Galleries

Museum of the Home

Housed in 300-year-old almshouses and

recently renamed to distance itself from a

historic donor’s links to transatlantic slavery,

the Museum of the Home looks at the ways

we engage with our own homes.

London Museum Docklands

In a former Georgian-era sugar storehouse,

this museum has a wonderful exhibition about

the trade and industry of the docks as well as a

particularly good interactive children’s area.

Ragged School Museum

A cute little museum in a former ‘ragged

school’ overlooking the Regent’s Canal that

tells the story of how London’s poor were edu-

cated in these philanthropic institutes.

Whitechapel Art Gallery

The East End’s original gallery, which has

proudly premiered the likes of Mexican artist

Frida Kahlo through to German photographer

Thomas Struth, remains at the forefront of

the area’s contemporary art scene.

Chisenhale Gallery

For artists by artists, this is the gallery if

you want to see work by marginalised and

overlooked artists. Previous exhibit titles

include Essential Black Art and Yellow Peril:

New World Asians.

Backyard Market

YAU

MING

LOW/SHUTTERSTOCK

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LONDON REVIEWS

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Experience

Hampstead

& North

London

online

HAMPSTEAD &

NORTH LONDON

HISTORY | NATURE | DRINKING

 Trip Builder (p142)

 Haunt Hampstead’s

Taverns (p144)

 Ottoman North

London (p146)

 Wild Swimming on the

Heath (p148)

 High-End Hampstead

(p150)

 Tour Abandoned

Tube Stations (p152)

 The Tube’s Disused

Stations (p154)

 Listings (p156)

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FROM TOP: CHRISTIAN MUELLER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

KATHY DEWITT/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

PREVIOUS SPREAD: ALENA VEASEY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Down a pint with highway

robber Dick Turpin’s ghost

at the Spaniards Inn.

Ġ 10 min walk from

Kenwood House

Learn the history of

bourgeois Hampstead

at the quaint Burgh

House Museum.

Ġ 5 min walk from

Hampstead Station

Only central London has more

blue plaques and celebrity residents

than wealthy Hampstead and Highgate,

where huge townhouses and the

famous Heath are home to resident

ghouls, antique and boutique shops,

and markets. Meanwhile vibrant,

multicultural Islington and Stoke

Newington offer Ottoman-style

mosques, the finest Anatolian cuisine

and hidden rural escapes.

Neighbourhood Notes

Best for Experiencing the rural in London and

multicultural heritage.

How long Give yourself four to five days.

Getting around The Overground conveniently

moves across the north of London.

Tips Hampstead and Highgate are expensive;

for cheap eats try the areas around Camden and

Kentish Town.

HAMPSTEAD

& NORTH

LONDON

Trip Builder

Find a literary treasure

hidden somewhere

inside the Keith Fawkes

rare-books store.

Ġ 2 min walk from

Hampstead Station

HAMPSTEAD

&

NORTH

LONDON BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

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Say hello to the father of

socialism, Karl Marx, at

Highgate Cemetery.

Ġ 15 min walk from Archway

Underground Station

Stare in awe at

the Ottoman-style

dome inside the

Aziziye Mosque.

Ġ 10 min walk

from Dalston

Kingsland Station

Experience an exhilarating wild

swim at Hampstead Mixed

Pond, one of the Heath’s three

swimming ponds.

Ġ 7 min walk from Hampstead

Heath Overground Station

Drop by the iconic Hous-

mans Bookshop for its

radical, forward-thinking

selection of books.

Ġ 3 min walk from

King’s Cross Station

VICKY

JIRAYU/SHUTTERSTOCK

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&

NORTH

LONDON EXPERIENCES

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How to

Getting there It’s a short

walk to the Old Bull &

Bush from Golders Green

Station on the Northern

Line; alternatively take

bus 210 or 268.

When to go When the

days are short, the light

fades early and London’s

famous fog starts creep-

ing across the Heath.

Father of socialism Pay

your respects to one of

history’s most influential

western thinkers; Karl

Marx and his marvellous

bust reside in Highgate’s

East Cemetery.

Haunt Hampstead’s

TAVERNS

HORROR | HISTORY | PUBS

30

A ghostly pub crawl that offers the best of Hampstead’s legendary

hauntings as it goes from Golders Green to Highgate via three of London’s

spookiest pubs. You’ll encounter famous ghouls, amorous Spanish ghosts and

some of the best Sunday roasts this side of West London, before embarking on a

vampire hunt in the capital’s most famous cemetery.

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Top The Old Bull & Bush

Bottom Highgate Cemetery

HAMPSTEAD

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LONDON EXPERIENCES

145

Start at the Old Bull & Bush, where a skeleton surrounded by

surgical equipment was found behind a wall in 1987 and locals

often report seeing a shrouded Victorian figure sitting at the

bar. Then head east to one of London’s oldest pubs, the Span-

iards Inn, where you’ll meet the first of Hampstead’s amorous

Spanish ghouls: the inn’s 17th-century landlord, Juan Porero,

killed by his brother in a duel over a woman. In all likelihood,

though, it’s the inn’s most famous ghastly resident, highway

robber Dick Turpin, you’re really here to meet. On the eastern

edge of the Heath, another Iberian spook resides at the Flask

– the former love-struck barmaid who hanged herself in the

cellar. But she’s not alone. As you sit in one of the cosy corners

of this 17th-century pub, beware her spooky co-worker who

is often seen disappearing into pillars dressed in a Cavalier’s

uniform!

Finally it’s London’s most famous graveyard, Highgate Cem-

etery. Take your pick from a dark shrouded figure, a floating

nun or a raging grey-haired woman. Or if you’re really brave, go

hunt the legendary Highgate Vampire, first spotted rising from

graves here in the 1960s to attack locals, after police were told

about dumped carcasses of animals drained of their blood. In

the 1970s actual vampire hunts took place at the cemetery.

R

Hunting

Dracula

The hunt for Highgate’s

vampire was led by

‘magician’David Farrant

and Bishop of the‘Old

Catholic Church’, Sean

Manchester. On Friday 13

February 1970 both went

on TV saying they would

destroy the creature. This

inspired a mob, wielding

homemade stakes, to turn

up at the cemetery within

hours of the report being

aired. Many entered the

cemetery and desecrated

a number of graves. The

whole saga only came to

an end in 1973 when Man-

chester claimed he had

driven a stake through the

heart of the vampire in a

house dubbed‘House of

Dracula’.

DAN

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HAMPSTEAD

&

NORTH

LONDON EXPERIENCES

146

How to

Getting there Buses 149

and 243 pass all three

mosques; Overground

stations Dalston Junction

and Dalston Kingsland

are in the middle.

When to go Check

listings for the five daily

prayer times and avoid

these when visiting the

mosques.

Ottoman baths Turkish

baths were once extreme-

ly popular in London

and then they suddenly

disappeared. Now

they’re back! Try Turkish

Bath Hammam close to

Ramadan Mosque on the

Crossway.

OTTOMAN

North London

HISTORY | CULTURE | RELIGION

31

North London’s A10 runs through the heart of the capital’s large Turkic

community, which is the place for Anatolian food – be it a humble lahmachun or

a delicately spiced guvec (lamb stew). However, few people know that it is also

home to three of London’s most fascinating mosques – each with a little nod to

the community’s imperial forefathers, the Ottomans.

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Bottom Aziziye Mosque

HAMPSTEAD

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LONDON EXPERIENCES

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Everything about the Suleymaniye Mosque screams clas-

sically Ottoman. Named after the Empire’s flagship mosque,

the Suleymaniye in Istanbul – built by its greatest architect for

its greatest sultan – it has a classically Ottoman dome and a

66.5m-high minaret plucked straight from the Istanbul skyline

(reportedly the tallest in the UK). Founded in 1994, it can hold

3000 people in an interior as spectacular as the exterior.

The Masjid Ramadan was set up in 1977 to serve the local

Turkish-Cypriot community in what was the Stoke Newington

Synagogue, built in the ‘Andalusian’ style. An Ottoman imperial

insignia on the mosque’s stone mimbar alludes to claims that

the mosque conducted the funerals of one of the last Ottoman

princesses, HIH Hayriya Aisha Durr-i-shahvar Sultan (d 2006).

The mosque also has a nice on-site cafe and is known for host-

ing cultural events that encourage intercommunal harmony.

Finally, and easily the prettiest of all, is the Aziziye Mosque,

which until 1983 was a cinema showing martial arts and soft-

core porn movies. Although structurally the building remains

unchanged, it has been transformed by the addition of two

ubiquitous Ottoman-style gold domes and the covering of the

entire building in the famous blue Ottoman Iznik tiles – report-

edly imported from Turkey. The blue continues inside, where

a luxuriously thick blue carpet sits beneath a stunning central

dome, decorated with exquisite Arabic calligraphy, red and

blue patterns, and a central hanging chandelier.

ĸ

Mosque

Etiquette

When visiting the

mosques remember the

etiquette: avoid visiting

during the five daily prayer

times and be sure to wear

modest clothing that

covers your shoulders

and falls below the knee.

Women should wear a

headscarf and everyone

should remove their shoes

on entry. Some mosques

will only allow men into

the main prayer hall and

women will have to use

the balcony.

HAMPSTEAD

&

NORTH

LONDON EXPERIENCES

Top Hampstead Mixed Pond

Bottom Duck, Hampstead Heath

148

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Men's Pond

Kenwood

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Heath

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Dive into open water, just as a

swan takes off beside you, say hello to

curious ducks while gently performing

the breaststroke, and feel the brush

of a water reed as you complete a lap

in London’s most exhilarating bathing

spot. Welcome to Hampstead Heath’s

swimming ponds, the only place in

the capital where you can go ‘wild

swimming’.

Locals have been dipping

into the refreshing waters

of Hampstead Heath’s

swimming ponds since the

1800s, when the three ponds

– originally part of a series of

reservoirs supplying London

with water – became open-

air swim spots.

The Highgate Men’s Pond

by the Heath’s Millfield Lane

entrance is the largest and

boasts an impressive diving

platform. This huge body of

water has banks of green,

grassy slopes with a number

of mature trees and thick

reed bushes at the

How to

Getting there Bus 214 passes close to the

segregated ponds; Hampstead Heath Overground

is a short walk from the mixed pond.

When to go The segregated ponds are open year-

round; the mixed only between April and October.

All charge a small fee.

Outdoor pool For those that want to swim out-

doors but in an actual pool, Parliament Hill Lido is

in the southeastern corner of the Heath.

Wild Swimming on

THE HEATH

SWIMMING | NATURE | OUTDOORS

32

HAMPSTEAD

&

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LONDON EXPERIENCES

149

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edges; bathing in it genu-

inely feels like a wild swim

despite being in the heart of

modern, urban London. This

is particularly true during the

colder months when only a

handful of hardened locals

come for a dip, creating an

unmatched serenity about

the place. This is also true

about the Kenwood Ladies’

Pond, just a short walk north.

Much smaller and surround-

ed by thick bushy trees with

low-lying branches that hover

just above the water, the

ladies-only pond has an

almost medieval feel about

it. Little wonder that regulars

speak of swimming in either

one as being a ‘spiritual’

experience. Finally, there’s

Hampstead Mixed Pond,

on the other side of the

Heath next to Pryors Field. In

warm weather it’s always the

busiest of the three ponds,

but it’s closed to the public

during the winter months.

H

Brunch &

the Burgh

Not far from Hampstead

Mixed Pond is Burgh House,

an early-18th-century house

that is a dynamic space for

art, events and history, and

home to a great permanent

exhibition about Hampstead

through the ages. It’s also

home to a delightful cafe

serving hearty brunches.

01 Antiques &

collectibles

Grab a rare book or an

antiquated collectible

at Keith Fawkes along

quaint and picturesque

Flask Walk.

02 Crêpes

You’ll have to queue, but

the French pancakes,

especially the savoury

ones, at La Crêperie

de Hampstead are well

worth the wait.

03 Fine art

With so many wealthy

residents in Hampstead,

it’s no surprise that

there are a fair few fine-

art dealers in the area,

like Clarendon Fine Art.

04 Kenwood House

Imagine what it’s like to

be a Lord of the Manor

and wander through the

stunning rooms of this

17th-century country

house on the famous

Heath.

02

01

03

04

150

HIGH-END

Hampstead

01 BJOERN WYLEZICH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 02 PHOTOCRITICAL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 03 BAX WALKER/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 04 CHRISPICTURES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

05 SCULPTOR: OSCAR NEMON; PHOTO: PHAUSTOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 06 OLEKSANDR IURCHAK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 07 CKTRAVELS.COM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

05 Sigmund

Freud Statue

He was one of Hampstead’s most

famous residents and fittingly,

a statue with a great likeness

to the father of psychoanalysis

sits outside the world famous

Tavistock College.

06 The Gallery

Enjoy the whisky, quiz nights

and live DJ sets at this sleek bar,

where much of what you drink

will have been sourced from

local breweries, distilleries and

wineries.

07 The Wet Fish Cake

Sophisticated and relaxed 1930s

brasserie setting serving delicious

dishes including locally caught,

wild Cornish cod in batter and

brunches with West Hampstead–

style eggs.

06

07

05

151

This itinerary is by Geoff Marshall. Geoff is a Londoner, former Tube

travelling World Record holder, ‘Hidden London’ guide, and in 2017

visited all 2563 National Rail stations in Great Britain. @geofftech

HAMPSTEAD

&

NORTH

LONDON EXPERIENCES

152

FEDERICO

FERMEGLIA/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

Tour Abandoned Tube

STATIONS

THE TUBE | ABANDONED | HISTORY

The Tube is more than just a way to get around; it’s an iconic part of

London life. See a different side of the system by discovering its disused stations

hiding in plain sight all over the city.

33

Trip Notes

Getting around Kentish Town Underground Station is on the Northern Line.

Touch on and off the Tube with your Oyster card.

When to go Year-round

Photo op Take a picture of the replica ‘red’ roundel on the eastbound platform

of Covent Garden.

Detour For lunch make a detour to the London Transport Museum (Covent

Garden Piazza), with its transport-themed cafe and shop.

Y

Closing

South

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Town

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back up and running!

You can get right up

close to the building

to study the tiles, or if

you want to go inside,

make use of one of

the businesses now

located in the former

station.

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STEVE SPELLER/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Exit left from Kentish

Town station. Head south

down Kentish Town Rd

to the junction of Castle

Rd. The red-tiled building

(now used for retail) is

the South Kentish Town

station building that

closed in 1924.

01

Walk west towards

Hyde Park Corner. A

disused surface building

stands on the west

side of the junction

on Knightsbridge; the

modern-day entrance is

beneath the road. The

disused station building

is now a restaurant, but

its Tube legacy is obvious.

05

Return to Holborn

and take the Piccadilly

Line to Green Park.

Walk west down Picca-

dilly until Down St. the

old, red-tiled Down St

Station building here

closed in 1934.

04

Return to King’s Cross to take the

Piccadilly Line to Holborn. Walk south

down Kingsway and find Aldwych Station

(pictured opposite) down the side road

of Surrey St. There are two fascias to see:

one on the main road and the large main

entrance tucked down the side on Surrey St.

03

Keep walking south to Camden

Town. Take the Northern Line to

King’s Cross. Head to Grays Inn Rd

and immediately turn left onto St

Chad’s Pl. Peek over the wall to see

the abandoned Old King’s Cross

Tube station platform.

02

DRIMAFILM/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

154

Left Mornington Crescent Underground

Station Centre Aldwych Underground Station

Right Piccadilly Circus Underground Station

HAMPSTEAD

&

NORTH

LONDON ESSAY

The Tube’s

Disused

Stations

WHERE THE TUBE NO

LONGER STOPS

You may be familiar

with the London

Tube Map, but are

you familiar with its

list of abandoned and

disused stations that

are scattered around

the capital? There are

about 50 of them.

By Geoff Marshall

Geoff is a Londoner, former Tube

travelling World Record holder,

‘Hidden London’guide, and in 2017

visited all 2563 National Rail stations

in Great Britain.

@geofftech

‘About 50’? Why not a definitive number? Good question…

The answer is another question: how do you define a dis-

used station? There are stations still open today where the

original station building is disused, and there are stations

that have moved, therefore technically abandoned, and

so on. Defining an abandoned station is open to interpre-

tation.

The most famous is arguably Aldwych, an awkward one-

stop branch from Holborn, whose passenger numbers

had dwindled to just 450 people per day shortly before

it closed, and if you had just missed the shuttle train at

Holborn it was often quicker to walk than wait for the next

one. And so, at the end of 1994 – due to the prohibitive

cost of the lifts needing to be refurbished – Aldwych

Underground Station closed and joined that list of aban-

doned stations.

The Underground’s first ever abandoned station was

King William Street. Located on what is today’s Northern

Line, next to the Monument to the Great Fire of London, it

opened in 1890 but closed just 10 years later in 1900 when

the line was extended. The damp tunnels are still there

today – buried beneath modern-day buildings.

Stations came and went over the years. The main cause

was that originally the Underground was not one joined-up

system. Stations were all built by separate companies who

competed against each other, but they were later unified

in the 1930s with the creation of the London Transport

Passenger Board.

ANNAVEE/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

RIGHTCLICKSTUDIOS/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

155

HAMPSTEAD

&

NORTH

LONDON ESSAY

If you cannot get below

ground, there are

still many abandoned

station buildings on the

surface and they are a

joy to spot.

Two world wars played their part too, with some stations

closing during wartime and never reopening afterwards. Sev-

eral closed when it became clear they were built too close to

other stations, while some were rebuilt and moved – Osterley

on the Piccadilly Line was about 500m further up the line and

was re-sited and rebuilt to be in a better location. Passengers

going to/from Heathrow airport whizz past the abandoned

platforms that are still

clearly visible, though many

barely notice them.

It is possible to see some

of the disused stations via

Hidden London tours and at

other times when a private

guide takes you for a tour

inside and around the old

stations. This is a must for

Tube enthusiasts. If you

cannot get below ground,

there are still many abandoned disused station buildings on

the surface and they are a joy to spot. My favourites are the

ones featuring the deep ‘ox-blood’ red-coloured tiles created

by designer Leslie Green.

9

Leslie Green

& the Tube

Leslie Green is a renowned

architect who designed

several stations for the

London Underground at the

beginning of the 20th century.

His distinct style featured ox-

blood red tiles as a frontage

of a two-storey steel-framed

building with semi-circular

first floor windows and ornate

tiled interiors.

Several of his stations still

exist and are in use today.

They are instantly recognis-

able from a distance. Green’s

assistant Stanley Heaps car-

ried on his work after he died

of tuberculosis in 1908 at the

age of just 33. His legacy lives

on in his beautifully designed

station buildings.

H Brunch Spots

Roni’s

£

Head for Roni’s on Swains Lane in Highgate

for a North African brunch; the shakshuka is

on point and always served with fresh, warm

pitta bread.

The Brew House

£

This is all about the setting inside the

17th-century neoclassical Kenwood House

overlooking the famous Heath; full English

breakfasts are served until 11.30am on the

weekend.

The Breakfast Club

£

This Islington institution gets busy on the

weekend. That line of people in front of you

are all going to order the Full Monty, Greasy

Spoon or its veg equivalent, the Veggie Spoon.

a Museum Houses

Freud Museum

Enter the house of the father of psychothera-

py to see many of his original items, including

the famous couch. This was also the home of

his daughter, Anna Freud, and has a delightful

garden area, too.

Keats House

This is where the renowned poet lived. You

can still glimpse many of his original poems

and letters, and sit in the very garden where

he reportedly wrote his ‘Ode to a Nightingale’.

Fenton House

This stunning 17th-century home has a collec-

tion of wonderful English Post-Impressionist

art inside and a garden of carefully chosen

flowers that are a blaze of colour in the spring.

William Morris Gallery

William Morris’ prints and patterns are all

the rage again. Step into his family home and

learn about the great entrepreneur and what

inspired him.

R Beautiful Books

New Beacons Books

A little bookshop close to Finsbury Park

specialising in work by the hugely under-

represented Black authors of the literary

world as well as books about Black culture.

Boom Cat Books

This cosy little secondhand bookshop near

Camden’s famous lock is nestled away in

among the food trucks and pop-up bars and

has a particularly good range by alternative

authors.

Amnesty International Bookshop

Well organised, staffed by friendly people and

supporting human rights – what’s not to love

about this great secondhand bookshop next

to Kentish Town train station?

Stoke Newington Toys & Books

Part of the award-winning bookshop of the

same name, this is a brilliant little spot to take

the children and let them pick up a classic

book or a book-related toy.

Keats House

ALEXMASTRO/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

HAMPSTEAD

&

NORTH

LONDON REVIEWS

156

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

Scan to find more things to

do in Hampstead & North

London online

Housmans Bookshop

This iconic radical bookshop run by

super-friendly staff near King’s Cross

specialises in feminist and LGBTIQ+ books,

plus a good selection of titles on Black and

progressive politics.

Y Hampstead’s Blue Plaques

Noor Inayat Khan

The female British-Indian Muslim secret

agent, who was killed after going into occu-

pied France during WWII, lived at 4 Taviton St.

Charles Darwin

The 19th-century naturalist who popularised

the theory of evolution lived in a house where

the Biological Sciences Building at UCL

stands.

Laurie Cunningham

The first Black footballer to represent England

internationally and play for Real Madrid lived

at 73 Lancaster Road.

Anna Freud

The pioneer of child psychoanalysis lived at

20 Maresfield Gardens with her illustrious

father Sigmund and their family.

George Orwell

The visionary 20th-century novelist and

political essayist most famous for 1984 and

Animal Farm lived at 50 Lawford Rd.

Rabindranath Tagore

The Indian poet and mystic won the Nobel

Prize for Literature in 1913, becoming one

of the world's most famous men in the early

20th century. He briefly resided at 3 Villas on

the Heath.

Ruth First

South African anti-Apartheid activist and

scholar lived at 13 Lyme St with her husband,

Joe Slovo.

r Antique Hunting

Camden Passage

Turn up on Wednesday and Saturday and

you’ll have three adjoining markets to wander

through in search of that elusive piece of

antique silverware, porcelain or furniture.

Fleming Antiques

There are a few antique shops inside Camden’s

famous stables and Flemings is one of the

better ones; pick up interesting furniture,

porcelain or even a stuffed animal, if that’s

your thing!

Keith Fawkes

An overflowing literary cavern of rare and an-

tiquated books as well as a small selection of

antiques in the adjacent store along charming

Flask Walk.

Také Antiques

A proper old-fashioned antique shop that

spills out onto the pavement and is run by a

friendly, if somewhat eccentric, dealer.

William Morris Gallery

AC

MANLEY/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

HAMPSTEAD

&

NORTH

LONDON REVIEWS

157

NOTTING HILL &

WEST LONDON

Experience

Notting Hill &

West London

online

SHOPPING | PARKS | MARKETS

 Trip Builder (p160)

 Browse Markets on

Portobello (p162)

 Find Zen at Holland

Park (p164)

 Graffik Gallery Graffiti

(p166)

 Saunter Through Little

Venice (p168)

 Don’t Leave London

Without... (p170)

 Listings (p172)

3

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Park

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FROM LEFT: VICKY JIRAYU/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

MS JANE CAMPBELL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PREVIOUS SPREAD: VITTORIO CARAMAZZA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Create your own

juniper blend and

more in a masterclass

at the four-storey the

Ginstitute.

Ġ 7 min walk from

Ladbroke Grove Station

Catch brilliant new plays at

the intimate Bush Theatre

in Shepherd’s Bush.

Ġ 2 min walk from Shepherd’s

Bush Market Station

Home to Europe’s largest

festival – Notting Hill Carnival – and

the globe’s most famous vintage

market, this sprawled slice of the city is

a mixed bag of quaint streets and

parks, dense and diverse thoroughfares

and marvellous fashion shops for a

range of budgets.

Neighbourhood Notes

Best for Boutique shopping, vintage and antiques,

parkland.

Transport Several stations, mainly within Zone

2, on the following lines: Overground, District,

Circle, Hammersmith & City, Piccadilly, Central and

Bakerloo.

Getting around Buses and trains for long distances,

otherwise walking is recommended.

Tip Vintage shopping here isn’t cheap, but you’ll

find plenty of quality and unique selections.

NOTTING HILL

& WEST

LONDON

Trip Builder

NOTTING

HILL

&

WEST

LONDON BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

160

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Palace

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Fulham Palace

( Putney Bridge)

i

Q

Uncover Notting Hill’s African-

Caribbean legacy on a tour with

Black History Walks.

ĸ blackhistorywalks.co.uk

Don a boiler suit and

channel your inner Banksy

at a graffiti workshop at

Graffik Gallery.

Ġ 4 min walk from

Ladbroke Grove Station

Roam ancient monasterial

grounds at Bishop’s Park and

the Fulham Palace museum.

Ġ 10 min walk from Putney

Bridge Station

Meander through lovely

canal-side settings for sur-

prising theatres and quaint

restaurants in Little Venice.

Ġ 3 min walk from Warwick

Avenue Station

Shop chic on Westbourne

Grove, part of the hugely

popular Portobello

Road Market.

Ġ 4 min walk from Lad-

broke Grove Station

Join a lively, million-

strong street party at

Notting Hill Carnival,

Europe’s biggest festival.

Ġ Walk from Ladbroke

Grove, Westbourne Park or

Notting Hill Gate stations

WILLY

BARTON/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

GRACIELLADEMONNE/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

NOTTING

HILL

&

WEST

LONDON EXPERIENCES

162

How to

Getting there The clos-

est Underground stations

(on opposite ends of Por-

tobello Rd) are Notting

Hill Gate (Central, Circle

and District Lines) and

Ladbroke Grove (Circle

and Hammersmith & City

Lines). Several buses are

available too.

When to go Saturday for

the full heaving experi-

ence, followed by Friday;

mornings are more

manageable. Weekdays

are quieter but with fewer

open stalls.

Early riser Though the

official Saturday opening

time is 8am, a few jewel-

lery stalls open as early

as 5.30am.

Browse Markets on

PORTOBELLO

SHOPPING | MARKETS | ANTIQUES

34

One of the world’s most famous markets barely needs introduction.

Millions of travellers and locals take to Notting Hill every year to navigate

over 1000 stalls of antiques, assorted goods and food against a pastel-coloured

backdrop of homes and brick-and-mortar shops. If you’re into shopping and

market culture, visiting this staple – especially on Saturday – is simply essential.

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0

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e

Top Portobello Road Market Bottom

Street food, Portobello Road Market

NOTTING

HILL

&

WEST

LONDON EXPERIENCES

163

A village of markets Portobello Road Market is not just one

bustling market set along the eponymous corridor. Instead,

it’s a conglomerate of several markets (of varied offerings and

trading hours) spread out through several Notting Hill streets,

which surely helps offset the 100,000-plus visitors it receives

on good-weather weekends. Antique-hunters should schedule

for Saturday visits to Portobello Rd between Chepstow Villas

and Elgin Cres streets, as the half-mile stretch contains the

lion’s share of vintage goods and collectables. For groceries

and street eats, proceed to Talbot Rd for stalls serving every-

thing from French crêpes to Caribbean jerk chicken, as well as

take-home items such as fresh seafood and gourmet cheeses.

The Westway area is a bit further out but is the hub for modern

fashions and trendy vintage shops.

Hidden finds Take refuge from the Portobello Road Market

rush and head into Portobello Green Arcade – the street’s

sole arcade hidden under Westway bridge – for a more relaxed

browsing experience of upmarket, mainly contemporary indie

shops. Acklam Village Market, tucked near Westway, is a

vibrant weekends-only spot with global street food and a bar

with free live music. Often overlooked by tourists is the market

stretch along Golborne Rd, which has a large Portuguese and

Moroccan community, where a plethora of shops and stalls

stand alongside vendors selling tasty pastel de nata and North

African cuisine.

S

Market Like

a Local

Arrive early The Market

gets crowded later in the

day, especially on Satur-

day. I recommend arriving

around 9.30am or 10am

on Saturday.

Don’t forget the side

streets They’re full of

shops, cafes and colourful

houses. My favourites

are Lancaster Rd for its

rainbow row of houses

and Blenheim Cres for

bookshops.

Explore inside the shops

Some have a labyrinth of

rooms to discover beyond

the storefront. Alice’s, an

antique store, is my favou-

rite; going inside feels like

stepping into a treasure

trove, as vintage goods fill

every space.

Tips by Julie

Falconer,

local travel

blogger,

@aladyinlondon

GS_S7/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

FB93/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

164

NOTTING

HILL

&

WEST

LONDON EXPERIENCES

How to

Getting there Holland

Park Station (Under-

ground’s Central Line) is

about a 10-minute walk.

When to go Summer

months for optimal

weather – and a chance

to catch performances at

the nine-week-only Opera

Holland Park.

Star-spotting The

Holland Park neighbour-

hood has several famous

residents; maybe you’ll

see singer Elton John or

the Beckhams having a

leisurely walk?

Find Zen at Holland

PARK

NATURE | HISTORY | CULTURE

35

One of West London’s prettiest green spaces, Holland Park is more low-key

than London’s larger parks. Within its 22 hectares are woodlands, recreational

facilities, a stately orangery and the 1605-built Holland House. Of all the charming

gardens, Kyoto Garden is the most magnificent, where carps swim in waterfall-fed

koi ponds surrounded by stone lanterns and Japan floral natives.

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Holland Park

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Holland

Park

Holland

House

Holland

Park

e

0

200 m

0

0.1 miles

165

NOTTING

HILL

&

WEST

LONDON EXPERIENCES

Top Kyoto Garden Bottom Peacock,

Kyoto Garden

From Japan, with love The Kyoto Garden, built in 1991, was a

gift from the Chamber of Commerce of Kyoto to memorialise

its lasting friendship with Great Britain. Ever since, Holland

Park visitors have come to the picturesque area to see the

koi pond and cascading waterfall, delight in the trees’ vibrant

colours in the springtime and autumn months...and spot

meandering peacocks. There is an additional gifted Japa-

nese garden, 2012’s Fukushima Memorial Garden, from

the Embassy of Japan, made as a ‘thank you’ for the British’s

helping hand after the devastating Fukushima earthquake and

tsunami in 2011. Though the latter’s origins are more sombre,

both gardens offer fabulous respite in West London.

The wild side There’s more to London’s park wildlife than

pigeons and squirrels – and, specifically to Holland Park, those

colourful peacocks. A planned visit to the Holland Park Ecology

Centre (rbkc.gov.uk/ecology) will provide an expert-led

primer on the area’s incredible biodiversity and ecosystem.

Every season offers different activities. The autumn months,

for instance, offer outings such as Fungi Foray, where groups

search, identify and learn about the different fungi species in

the park; and the Autumn Bat Walk, a torch-lit tour with bat

experts who use special detectors to find the nocturnal crea-

tures. In the summer, join tours for butterflies, amphibians and

parakeets, and partake in gardening workshops.

š

Top Holland

Park Tips

See Kyoto Garden in the

spring, when the cherry

trees are in bloom and

koinobori (Japanese carp

streamers) are hung over

the small waterfall and

rippling koi pond.

Watch for peacocks,

often found around Kyoto

Garden. If you can’t spy

them, try looking up,

as they can be spotted

sleeping in the trees.

Catchanopera concert in

the summer, when Holland

House’s romantic ruins

are used as a backdrop

for pop-up performances.

Buy tickets early, as most

performances sell out.

Enter via the southwest-

ern gate; it’s off Ilchester

Pl, one of Britain’s most

expensive – and jaw-

droppingly gorgeous –

streets.

Tips by Nicole

Trilivas,

local travel

writer,

@NicoleTrilivas

166

Top Graffik Gallery

Bottom Graffiti process

NOTTING

HILL

&

WEST

LONDON EXPERIENCES

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Notting Hill

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Ladbroke

Grove

Graffik

Gallery

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0.1 miles

London is known for its urban

art scene, and there’s no better way to

explore it, shop it and even create it

than at Graffik Gallery on Portobello

Rd. The city’s preeminent space for

high-end street art runs temporary

exhibitions from emerging artists,

has an impressive collection from

luminaries such as Banksy and Bambi,

and hosts family-friendly graffiti-

making workshops.

Not your average gallery

Graffik Gallery is one of the

earliest (if not the first) com-

mercial galleries dedicated

to street art, representing

some of the world’s top

urban art creators. Instead of

Matisse-style paintings and

Old World portraits, you’ll find

skateboard triptychs from

Robin Coleman; spray-painted

traffic signs from Tommy

Gurr; and provocative limited-

edition prints from Kun-

strasen. While much of the

art is relatively affordable, it’s

not uncommon to find origi-

nal works selling for £17,500

or more. For serious collec-

tors, the gallery can arrange

How to

Getting there Ladbroke Grove (Underground’s

Circle and Hammersmith & City Lines) is a five-

minute walk to the gallery.

When to go Weekend afternoons (closes at 6pm).

Book well in advance for graffiti workshops and

private classes.

Affordable art No budget for an £8000 original

mixed-media collage? There are a few works (and

art gifts) for sale under £150.

Graffik Gallery

GRAFFITI

STREET ART | GALLERIES | CULTURE

36

167

NOTTING

HILL

&

WEST

LONDON EXPERIENCES

ROBERTO

HERRETT/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

NICK

STARICHENKO/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

appointment-only viewings

of secondary market works

of late art icons Andy Warhol

and Jean-Michel Basquiat.

Make your own street art

Far cooler than a typical art

gallery, Graffik also runs a bevy

of workshops and master-

classes for novice street

artists. You’ll don gloves,

goggles and shiny blue boiler

suits as expert instructors

show you how to spray paint

with stencils on canvas…

or freestyle on the gallery’s

garden walls. Choose from

open-to-all Weekend Graf-

fiti Workshops and private

classes. If you’re with older

children, then it’s an activity

you can take the family to try,

too. A dedicated two-hour

Family Experience Graffiti

Class caters for children aged

eight and over; each person

can create their graffiti piece

individually or work together

on a larger canvas for a

collective masterpiece.

Ĳ Not for Sale

Even the building’s a work

of (street) art: it’s easy to

identify Graffik Gallery while

walking along Portobello Rd,

with Dotmaster’s three-storey

mural of a mischievous girl

spray painting the Mona Lisa

on a blue brick exterior.

NOTTING

HILL

&

WEST

LONDON EXPERIENCES

MASAMI.K/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

168

Saunter Through

LITTLE VENICE

CANALS | FOOD & DRINK | THEATRES

Just north of thronging Paddington is Maida Vale’s charming, colourful

houseboat-dotted waterway where Regent’s Canal and Grand Union Canal

converge. Surrounding these canals are a few on-the-ground places to explore,

including old-school pubs, quaint canal-side restaurants and wholly unique

theatre venues.

37

How to

Getting there Warwick Avenue Station on the Underground’s Bakerloo Line is

just two streets away.

When to go April to September, or any time the weather is dry and sunny.

Cruise the canal Take a relaxing 45-minute ride on a narrowboat along

Regent’s Canal from Little Venice to Camden Town (or vice versa) with London

Waterbus Company (londonwaterbus.com).

Ĥ

Boat

Bonanza

To see Little Venice

at its liveliest, visit

on the first May bank

holiday to attend

Canalway Cavalcade,

an exciting waterside

festival with more

than 100 flamboy-

antly decorated

narrowboats parad-

ing around the area.

There are food and

drinks stalls, attrac-

tions for children and

live performances to

complement the fun

boat watching.

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Dine along the water

at the Summerhouse, a

chic all-seasons restau-

rant, for seafood such

as pan-roasted sea trout

and whole lobster. Great

for boat watching.

01

Head to the upstairs portion

of Bridge House Pub to find Canal

Café Theatre, an award-winning

60-seat fringe venue specialising in

sharp-witted comedy and cabaret.

05

Grab a pint, eat

a traditional Sunday

roast or compete at

Wednesday quiz nights

at the Warwick Castle,

an old-fashioned,

beloved backstreet pub

serving the community

since 1867.

04

Rembrandt Gardens

is a small but lovely retreat

near Grand Union Canal; the

name’s derived from the City

of Westminster being linked

to the Netherlands’ city of

Amsterdam in 1975.

03

Climb aboard the canal boat

of the Puppet Theatre Barge, the

UK’s only floating puppet theatre,

for unique marionette performanc-

es both adults and little ones will

love; book in advance.

02

01 Teddy bear

Head to department

store Liberty London

for the handmade Icon

London teddy bear by

local luxury toy brand

Grin & Bear.

02 Biscuits

Fortnum & Mason, Brit-

ish royalty’s grocer

of choice since the

1700s, offers a delicious,

extensive selection of

gourmet biscuit tins.

03 Posters

Browse for fabulous

vintage posters depict-

ing train stations, city

landmarks and more in

the London Transport

Museum gift shop.

04 Tea

Head to Twinings,

a quintessential

British tea brand, for

a triple-caddy London

Skyline Tea Collection

from its flagship store

on The Strand.

05 Sketchbook

Doodle your favourite

London sights and ac-

tivities with Citysketch

London, available at

bookstores such as

Waterstones.

06 Chocolate bar

Indulge in a Gold Bar – a

Belgian milk chocolate

and almond nougat

treat wrapped in gilded

foil – from Harrods.

01

02

03

04

05

170

DON'T LEAVE

London Without...

07 Keychain

Take the famous

well-travelled Paddington

Bear wherever you go

with a plush Classic Pad-

dington Keychain from its

eponymous store.

08 Passport holder

Travel Hogwarts-style

with a faux leather

passport holder from

the Harry Potter Shop

at Platform 9¾ in King’s

Cross Station.

09 Tea towel

After a day exploring the

Natural History Museum,

hit the gift shop for a

vibrant vintage butterfly

diagram tea towel.

10 Gin

Visit Berry Bros & Rudd,

England’s oldest wine

and spirits shop, for

house-brand gin bottles

and gift sets.

11 Bottle opener

& corkscrew

For a utilitarian (and

ubiquitous) London-

themed gadget, grab a

cheap red phone-booth

bottle opener.

12 Mug

Transport yourself

to London on every

sip with the Quite Big

London Mug, available

at Oxford Street’s John

Lewis & Partners.

12

08

09

11

10

06

07

01 GRIN & BEAR LONDON ©, 02 STEVE VIDLER/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 03 LOOP IMAGES LTD/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 04 EBAY ©, 05 TATIANA DAVIDOVA/

SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 06 WWW.HARRODS.COM ©, 07 AMAZON ©, 08 WARNER BROS. ENTERTAINMENT INC. ©, 09 THE TRUSTEES OF THE NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM,

LONDON ©, 10 SALLY ANDERSON/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 11 ENIKIFOROVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 12 JOHN LEWIS PLC ©

171

C Historic Homes

Leighton House

Find stunning arabesque details and stuffed

peacocks near the foot of Holland Park in

the refurbished home of 19th-century artist

Frederic Leighton.

Fulham Palace

The former summer residence of England’s

bishops from as early as 704 CE, it is now a

museum with guided history tours, garden

walks and a courtyard cafe.

Sambourne House

Formerly known as 18 Stafford Terrace, the

renovated former abode of cartoonist Linley

Sambourne is open year-round for a peek at

Victorian-era living near Holland Park.

Design Museum

Source inspiration from the Holland Park–

adjacent museum’s enormous collection, strik-

ing exterior architecture and special exhibits.

3 Catch a Show

Lyric Hammersmith Theatre

A modern, multifaceted community space

in the heart of Hammersmith with ground-

breaking theatre programs (at affordable

prices) and an attractive roof garden.

Eventim Apollo

Hear the echoes of historic performances by

David Bowie and The Beatles in this storied

live entertainment venue in Hammersmith,

with grand art-deco elements and an enor-

mous pipe organ still intact.

Bush Theatre

An intimate and important London theatre in

Shepherd’s Bush that nurtures new

playwright voices, many of which go on to

take the famous West End circuit by storm.

F Afro-Caribbean Culture

Notting Hill Carnival

Put on your dancing shoes for some Caribbean-

flavoured bacchanalia at Europe’s largest

street festival, held every August bank holiday

in Notting Hill and beyond. Expect steel

drum-pounding paraders, live-music stages

and more.

Black History Walks

There are several London areas covered by

the award-winning Black History Walks, but

the two-hour Notting Hill tour is one of the

most essential and illuminating.

ħ Cafes, Gastropubs & Grub

The Cheese Barge

£

Take your taste for cheese up a notch inside a

moored double-decker boat on the Padding-

ton Basin. Find wallet-friendly cheeseboards,

small plates and grown-up grilled-cheese

sandwiches.

Lowry & Baker

£

Portobello Rd’s cosy neighbourhood cafe.

The mismatched crockery adds a dollop of

fun eccentricity, while breakfast and brunch

Fulham Palace

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Listings

BEST OF THE REST

Scan to find more things to

do in Notting Hill & West

London online

offerings such as ricotta-topped brioche and

mushrooms on toast deliver the goods.

Antipode

£

Get some reprieve from Hammersmith’s bus-

tle inside this Australian artisanal coffee shop.

The kimchi and mature cheddar toastie is the

star dish on the all-day menu.

The Crab Tree

££

A classic if not upscale riverside pub in

Fulham, with a strong dining menu. In warmer

climes, The massive Orchard Beer Garden

(and summer barbecues) is a local favourite.

The Cow

££

Gourmet pub staple in Notting Hill proudly

offering up Guinness, oysters and seasonal

seafood. Walls are adorned with quirky murals

and cow portraits.

The Harwood Arms

£££

Gastropubs in London might be an ongoing trend,

but the HarwoodArms – a Michelin-starred

restaurant based in an unassuming residential

street near Fulham Broadway – sets the bar.

Trailer Happiness

£

A souped-up, rum-focused tiki bar of interna-

tional acclaim on Portobello Rd. The potent

island-themed drinks pair wonderfully with

Caribbean- and Japanese-inspired dishes

from Portobello 177, the bar’s resident kitchen.

The River Café

£££

Far fancier than your average‘cafe’, Hammer-

smith’s Thames-hugging fine Italian restau-

rant has been a London institution since

1987. Anticipate daily changing menus and an

all-Italian wine list.

Caractère

£££

The haute French-Italian menu in this

smart-casual Westbourne Park Rd restaurant

reflects the heritage of wife-and-husband

chefs Emily Roux (granddaughter of iconic

French chef Michel Roux Jr) and Diego Ferrari.

The Ginstitute

££

Head to Portobello Rd’s four-storey temple of

gin for masterclasses and tastings, as well as

regular restaurant and bar offerings (serving

other spirits, too).

r For Shopaholics

Couverture & The Garbstore

Comprising two shops over three floors,

Couverture (womenswear and home products)

& the Garbstore (menswear) is a smart concept

store in Notting Hill celebrating independent

and international fashion brands.

Stuarts London

For over 50 years, this premier menswear

store in Shepherd’s Bush Market has been a

force in British fashion trends. Find globally

sourced designer duds and some vintage

selections, too.

Found And Vision

You’re likely to spot a celebrity here on the hunt

for marvellous preloved fashions at this Porto-

bello Rd boutique, selling high-end finds from

vintage Chanel hats to floral Kenzo dresses.

Bush Theatre

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BRIXTON,

PECKHAM &

SOUTH LONDON

CITY LIFE | CULTURE | PARKS

u Trip Builder (p176)

u Stroll Peckham’s Rye

Lane (p178)

u Explore a Hidden River

Trail (p180)

u Browse Brixton Village

Market (p182)

u Go the Bermondsey

Beer Mile (p184)

u South London Art

Galleries (p186)

u Listings (p188)

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OPPOSITE: CKTRAVELS.COM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PREVIOUS SPREAD: ELENACHAYKINAPHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Walk along a

hidden waterway

on the River

Wandle Trail.

Ġ 10 min walk

from Morden

Station

Once you’ve gotten your fill of

Central London’s famous attractions,

venture south of the River Thames for

a more suburban side of the city. Some

of London’s most diverse and dynamic

neighbourhoods are located here, along

with a collection of exceptional (and

less touristy) urban parks and food

markets.

Neighbourhood Notes

Best for Affordable food and drinks, multicultural

shops and charming green spaces.

Transport Victoria, Northern and Overground Lines,

plus National Rail trains.

Getting around An extensive bus network will take

you to hard-to-reach areas.

Tip The South is a sprawled collection of distinct

neighbourhoods, so allow several days to explore.

BRIXTON,

PECKHAM

& SOUTH

LONDON

Trip Builder

See British artist Damien

Hirst’s personal collection at

the industrial-style Newport

Street Gallery.

Ġ 11 min walk from Lambeth

North Station

Visit one of South

London’s oldest markets

at Tooting Market.

Ġ 2 min walk from

Tooting Broadway Station

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P I M L I C O

V A U X H A L L

K E N N I N G T O N

L A M B E T H

C A M B E R W E L L

B R I X T O N

B A L H A M

P E C K H A M

D U L W I C H

V I L L A G E

D U L W I C H

T O O T I N G

B E C

S T R E A T H A M

C R Y S T A L

P A L A C E

Brockwell

Park

Tooting

Commons

Explore London’s cool-

est warehouse district

at Copeland Park &

Bussey Building.

Ġ 4 min walk from

Peckham Rye Station

Find ‘roaming’ dinosaurs and sphinx in the

unusually charming Crystal Palace Park.

Ġ 5 min walk from Crystal Palace Station

Drink, eat and/or dance at

Pop Brixton, a fun shipping-

container complex.

Ġ 2 min walk from Brixton

Station

Absorb the history of Britain’s African

diaspora at the Black Cultural Archives.

Ġ 4 min walk from Brixton Station

Dine at outstanding

multi-ethnic restaurants like

Silk Road along Camberwell

Church Street.

Ġ 10 min walk from Denmark

Hill Station

Catch an immersive

theatre show at the

intimate COLAB Tavern.

Ġ 10 min walk from Elephant

& Castle Station

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38

How to

Getting there An

Overground train or one

of the National Rail lines

to Peckham Rye Station

will put you right on Rye

Lane’s doorstep.

When to go The Lane is

at its liveliest during the

afternoon. Late spring

through early autumn

means more daylight

hours on the rooftops,

and weekend evenings

thrum with nightlife year-

round.

Look closer There are

several arcades and

nooks to explore off the

strip, including under the

Peckham Rye Station

railway arches.

Welcome to the beating heart of Peckham, the city’s coolest neighbourhood.

Rye Lane is a pulsating snapshot of modern London, crammed with multicultural

markets and shops, hip warehouse hubs and restaurants set along a winding

graffiti-strewn road. Even in the face of slow-churned gentrification, Rye Lane still

maintains its scrappy, effervescent character – don’t leave London without a visit.

MARKETS | CONTEMPORARY ART | BARS

Stroll Peckham’s

RYE LANE

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Peckhamplex

Holdrons

Arcade

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Bussey

Building

Frank’s Café

CLF Art Lounge

& Roof Garden

Market Place

Peckham

Peckham Rye

Park

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Top Rooftop cinema, the Bussey

Building Bottom Peckham Afro

Foods Ltd, Rye Ln

6

Rye Lane’s

Essential Spots

Holdrons Arcade A quirky

little arcade with some

really great stores. It’s got

vintage shops, its own

radio station – it’s a cool

little melange of old and

new Peckham.

Peckhamplex A

total neighbourhood

classic. It’s a cavernous,

award-winning cinema

with super-cheap tickets

(just £5.99 all day, every-

day) showing all the latest

blockbusters.

NOLA Coffee Some of

the best coffee that you

can get your hands on in

South London. The venue

is a nice, airy space to

chill out, or you can take

your coffee over to nearby

Peckham Rye Park.

 Tips by Julianna Barnaby,

editor of London x London,

@londonxldn

Rooftop-hopping Rye Lane might have London’s tightest

cluster of cool rooftop venues. The classic picks are based be-

tween two neighbouring warehouses, now turned multifaceted-

hubs. The Bussey Building has a popular tropical-themed

rooftop bar, and a separate rooftop cinema open in warmer

months. Across the street, a car park’s roof has become an

essential hipster hangout and arm of an arts organisation –

Frank’s Café – while affording the ultimate London skyline vis-

ta. The new kids down the block are CLF Art Lounge & Roof

Garden – it might be inferior views-wise, but it’s the most inti-

mate and soulful of the bunch – and the fêted indoor-outdoor

Italian bar Forza Wine, crowning a converted brick building

with coworking spaces and a basement nightclub.

Small world From Nigerian cafes and Chinese grocers to

Afghan bargain stores and vegan Caribbean joints, Rye

Lane’s multicultural character is second to none. People

from across the globe – many of whom are of African and

Caribbean descent – convene on the bustling lane that was

once considered the ‘Oxford St’ of South London. The shops

and ethnic food options are endless: whether you step inside

the new Market Place Peckham for international food stalls

and specialist boutique shops, order cheap but quality curry

from Asian Takeaway or venture off-street to Choumert Rd’s

concentrated row of African restaurants and bars, you’ll feel

like you’ve travelled the world within a half-mile stretch.

ABDUL

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How to

Getting there There are

several options for trail

access, depending on your

preferred total walking

distance. For a 6-mile

route, start at Morden (via

Northern Line’s Morden

Station) and walk up to

Wandsworth where the

Thames and Wandle

Rivers meet.

When to go March to

May for blooms; June to

August for warm walks;

and October to November

for foliage.

Find your way A trail map

is essential; visit the Wan-

dle Valley Regional Park

Trust (wandlevalleypark.

co.uk/map) website for

mobile- and print-friendly

itineraries.

Explore a Hidden

RIVER TRAIL

NATURE | HISTORY | TRAILS

39

The Thames might be London’s marquee waterway, but within its

tributary network lies a bucolic ‘secret’ river. The River Wandle stretches 9 miles

northwest from Croydon – in London’s extreme south – to the mouth of the

Thames at Wandsworth, with a plethora of parks, wildlife and historic buildings

in between. Prepare to spend a full day exploring this tranquil river path.

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Richmond

Park

Carshalton Water Tower

Wilderness Island

Watermeads

Nature Reserve

Wandle Industrial Museum

Morden

Hall Park

Merton

Priory

Wandle

Meadow

Nature Park

River

Wandle

Trail

B A L H A M

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S T R E AT H A M

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PA L A C E

W A N D S W O R T H

C A R S H A L T O N

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Nature and preservation The River Wandle Trail has an

impressive network of parks and reserves on offer, led by the

efforts of environmental charities. You might never guess on

a stroll through the 11-acre pastoral Wandle Meadow Nature

Park – with tadpole-filled marsh ponds and abundant flora –

that it was once a sewage plant. Wilderness Island, wrapped

within the river’s two arms, was an important industrial mill

site and later a pleasure garden. Today the reserve is a trail

highlight for wanderers exploring its ponds, wildflower meadows

and woodlands. One of the newest River Wandle–adjacent

parks to open is the lush Watermeads Nature Reserve,

having been closed to the public for 100 years until 2015.

Walking through time Along the trail are relics of riverside

life dating as far as the 12th century. The Merton Priory – a

once-significant English monastery founded in 1114 – became

obsolete for centuries until archaeologists unearthed the foun-

dations of its Chapter House, which is now a heritage museum.

The Carshalton Water Tower was a lavish private estate

pump house in the 18th century, and you can see its preserved

saloon, orangery and a bath chamber with hand-painted

Delft blue tiles on Sunday-only guided tours. To learn why the

Wandle was once known as London’s ‘hardest-working river’

(when it had 90 working mills on its banks), veer off-path along

London Road for the Wandle Industrial Museum.

Y

Must-See

Trail Sightings

Inside Morden Hall Park

is the Wetlands Board-

walk, a series of wooden,

accessible pathways that

zigzag over the Wetlands

fed by the river.

Merton Abbey, once an

important textile mill facto-

ry, has been transformed

into a modern entertain-

ment hub with a craft

market, theatre and a

restaurant.

Watch for sections with

fast-flowing streams;

that flow helped power

over 90 mills to produce

products such as gun-

powder, paper, wheat and

snuff in the area’s heyday.

There’s an old bell in

Wandsworth that is

chimed at high and low

waters, and bears the

inscription‘I AM RUNG BY

THE TIDES’.

 Tips by David Fathers,

local author and illustrator

of several London

guidebooks, @fathers_

walks_london

ELENACHAYKINAPHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK

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How to

Getting there It’s a short

walk from the Victoria

line’s Brixton Station or

the separate National Rail

Brixton Station.

When to go The market’s

mostly indoor layout

provides year-round,

all-weather appeal. Avoid

Sunday and Monday as

many shops are closed.

Bright idea Step out

and peruse the lively

Electric Avenue Market

(closed Sunday), based

on a pedestrianised strip

famed as the world’s first

electrically lit market

street in the late 1800s.

Browse Brixton Village

MARKET

SHOPPING | MARKETS | CULTURE

40

Brixton Village Market (which includes the adjoining Market Row) is an

essential stop when visiting the ever-busy Brixton neighbourhood. It’s South

London’s premier international bazaar of affordable boutique shops, grocery

goods, cocktail bars and a range of small restaurants – some of which are among

London’s finest – all underneath covered, colourful arcades.

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London Beer Lab

and Taproom

Pergola

Brixton

Rachel &

Malika's

Round Table

Books

Fish, Wings & Tings;

May

Foods

Kaosarn;

Senzala

Crêperie

Cheese + Fizz

Light of

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Market

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Top Brixton Village Market

Bottom Brixton Village Market

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Happier hours The majority of the Village comprises restau-

rants or shops, but don’t overlook its small but noteworthy

bar and nightlife options. Head up to Pergola Brixton for

rooftop cocktails and scrumptious bar food, like birria tacos,

or pair your champagne with gooey truffle raclette at Cheese

+ Fizz. Or meander five minutes around the corner to the

London Beer Lab and Taproom, home to a nano brewery

where you can not only taste their great selection of on-site

micro-brewed craft beers but also learn to make your own.

The Caribbean and African experience Brixton has had

a strong Black British presence since the 20th century, and

this market – formerly known as Glanville Arcade – was once

a vibrant reflection of this. Today both the area and market

have expanded into a more global, if not gentrified, profile,

but there are still Caribbean and African market vendors from

which to absorb Brixton’s cultural legacy. For food, start with

an alfresco meal at Fish, Wings & Tings for Trinidadian-style

fare, or head around the corner to Light of Africa for all-vegan

Eritrean dishes like duba (pumpkin stew) and ades (red lentil

curry). May Foods serves authentic Ghanaian dishes like

banku and okra stew just the way grandma used to make it,

while Enish offers traditional Nigerian fare including egusi

soup and pounded yam in settings that make you feel like you

could be sitting somewhere in the heart of Lagos. For travellers

with kids, the inclusion-driven Round Table Books is a delight,

and avid shoppers should pop into Rachel & Malika’s for

gorgeous West African crafts and gifts.

H

Best

Market Eats

Salpike A cosy

Latin-American and

Caribbean restaurant

serving up home-style

comfort foods like spicy

pork belly and pumpkin

and sweet potato curry in

the heart of the Brixton

Village market.

Senzala Crêperie This

Brixton staple serves up

the best French crêpes

and galettes with a Brazil-

ian flair. Creative offerings

like the King Prawn Cajun

or the Rosa Squash crêpe

are sure to make your

taste buds dance.

Kaosarn This award-

winning Thai restaurant

plays no games with their

succulent offerings of

gang keaw waan, chu chi,

pad thai and more. Don’t

forget the sticky rice.

BRIXTON,

PECKHAM

&

SOUTH

LONDON EXPERIENCES

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LONG/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

184

Go the Bermondsey

BEER MILE

BEER | WALKING TOUR | HISTORY

You can find London’s ultimate beer bar crawl beneath a fragmented

series of Victorian railway arches in Bermondsey. There are nearly 20 quality

micro-breweries and taprooms to visit within a 1¼-mile stretch to visit – just

remember to pace yourself.

41

How to

Getting there It’s a quick walk to the main strip from Bermondsey Station, on

the Tube’s Jubilee line. The National Rail–serviced South Bermondsey Station

awaits at the Mile’s extreme end.

When to go Saturday is the best bet for brewery hours with Friday a close

second.

Food fuel Before your beer quest, anchor your stomach with food from the

nearby top-rated Maltby Street Market.

Ħ Tapped Out

Not into beer? There

are a few alternatives.

On the mile’s western

end there is a great

gin restaurant, 1751

Distillery Bar &

Kitchen, and the

brewery strip is also

lined with excellent

wine bars, including

Pedro’s Wine Bar for

the best Portuguese

vino, and 40 Maltby

Street for delicious

British fare washed

down with some of

the best continental

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DIANAJARVISPHOTOGRAPHY.CO.UK/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

The Barrel

Project is one of the

Mile’s most beautiful

taprooms; the walls

of this blendery from

London Beer Factory

sport 200 beer-ageing

oak barrels, from IPAs

to Imperial Stouts.

01

Fourpure, the Mile’s eastern-

most taproom, is also the largest.

Expect in-house lagers and IPAs,

and 40-plus taps underneath a

cavernous venue.

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The Beer Mile’s first tenant

was the Kernel Brewery – the

taproom has since moved a few

arches from The main operations

to accommodate more craft-

beer connoisseurs and devout

fans. It’s not a brewery, but the

Outpost is a worthy pit stop with

20 taps of fresh beer, house gin

and tonics, and a great selection

of wine to boot.

03

A Texan expat founded Billy

Franks Craft Beer & Snack

Shack, where you can pair brews

with beef jerky like the citrus

IPA-marinated Boozy Jerky.

02

01 South London

Gallery

This renowned gallery in

Camberwell spearheads

numerous community

art projects while housing

works from juggernauts

like Tracey Emin.

02 Newport Street

Gallery

Art icon Damien Hirst

opened this stunning

industrial-style gallery

in Vauxhall, putting his

breadth of work (and

his contemporaries) on

grand display.

03 Gasworks

A contemporary arts

hub in Kennington fo-

cused on cross-cultural

dialogue, with renowned

exhibits, workshop and

artist studios.

04 The Sunday

Painter

The artist-led venture

went from a pub-based

project space to a bona

fide gallery in Vauxhall

displaying a multi-

generational roster of

artists.

05 198 Contem-

porary Arts and

Learning

An important Brixton

institution, which was at

the forefront of Britain’s

186

South London

ART GALLERIES

01

02

03

04

01 JEFFREY BLACKLER/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO, 02 ARCHITECT: CARUSO ST JOHN. CARUSO ST JOHN/GETTY IMAGES ©, 03 PETER CRIPPS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©,

04 OLLIE HAMMICK ©, 05 198 CONTEMPORARY ARTS AND LEARNING ©, 06 DAVE M. BENETT/GETTY IMAGES ©, 07 ARCHITECT: IF_DO , 2017. VIEW PICTURES ©,

08 JEAN-PHILIPPE WOODLAND ©, 09 CANVAS AND CREAM ©. ILLUSTRATED PICTURE FRAMES: FRAME ART/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Black Arts movement

in the late 1980s,

continues to advocate

for diverse voices.

06 Bermondsey

Gallery

Find paintings, photog-

raphy, sculptures and

several other art medi-

ums in this independent

temple of emerging and

esteemed artists.

07 Dulwich Picture

Gallery

Designed by English

architect Sir John

Soane, the world’s first

purpose-built public

art gallery remains

culturally significant

some 200 years after

its opening.

08 Flat Time House

The former studio home

of late British artist John

Latham is now a con-

temporary art space with

an archive of Latham’s

precious works.

09 Canvas &

Cream

This Forest Hill gem

features several artists’

studios as well as

eclectic artworks in the

dining space.

187

05

09

06

07

08

š The Great Outdoors

Brockwell Park

This tranquil, sprawling park just south of

Brixton has trails, playgrounds, duck ponds

and the locally loved Brockwell Lido.

Battersea Park

A famous, family-friendly park straddling

the Thames with a children’s zoo and lake

paddle-boat rentals.

Dulwich Park

Explore woodlands and manicured gardens,

rent a bicycle and enjoy quality sourdough

pizza at the Dulwich Clock Café.

Burgess Park

You’ll find locals lake fishing, playing sports,

grilling in dedicated barbecue areas or simply

relaxing on the grass at the largest park in the

Southwark borough.

Crystal Palace Park

An acclaimed green space with a maze

garden, urban farm, boating lake, a skating

park and a beguiling 30-plus collection of

Victorian-era dinosaur sculptures.

H Top Meals

Tiwa N Tiwa

£

It gets no more authentically Nigerian than this

no-frills spot tucked off Peckham Rd. The suya

(grilled, sliced beef crowned with fiery spices,

onions and tomatoes) is a knockout dish.

Kudu

££

Head to Peckham’s Queen’s Rd for gourmet

South African plates in a retro-glam dining

room. Brunches are especially popular, with

Boerewors rolls and peri-peri chicken.

Trinity

£££

Clapham’s Michelin-starred restaurant shines

with inventive modern European dishes and

faultless service.

Silk Road

£

A rare taste of Xinjiang (a northwest China

province) at affordable prices. Sample dump-

lings, cumin-dusted lamb skewers and hearty

noodle soups in an unpretentious setting.

Restaurant Story

£££

Tom Sellers’ Michelin-starred gastronomic

theatre near Tower Bridge. It’s a contem-

porary, no-menu tasting experience of up

to 10 courses, so expect to be surprised

throughout.

3 For Theatre Buffs

Tara Theatre

Conceived after the racially motivated

murder of a Sikh boy in London in 1977, this

acclaimed Wandsworth theatre spotlights

South Asian thespian talent, tackling social

issues through powerful performances.

Dulwich Park

CKTRAVELS.COM/SHUTTERSTOCK

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BRIXTON,

PECKHAM

&

SOUTH

LONDON REVIEWS

188

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

Theatre Peckham

Star Wars’ John Boyega got his start here:

a renowned program focused on nurturing

young, underrepresented talent.

Bread & Roses Theatre

A small but mighty fringe pub theatre based

in Clapham, showing a wide range of perfor-

mances inside a 60-seat venue.

COLAB Tavern

A dedicated immersive theatre company

inside of a former pub near Elephant & Castle.

S Markets & Hangouts

Mercato Metropolitano

Roam this trendy community market’s

endless maze of food and drink stalls at an

abandoned paper factory site near Elephant

& Castle.

Prince of Peckham

Punters come to this quirky, Black-owned pub

for lip-smacking Caribbean food, generous

happy hours and a fun, diverse crowd.

Railway Tavern

Tucked underneath Tulse Hill Station is

a friendly neighbourhood haunt with an

enormous garden patio and eclectic events

line-up, including reggae and soul DJ sets and

quiz nights.

Pop Brixton

In the shadow of Brixton Village Market is a

hip community initiative hosting indie food

stalls and bars, shops and more in a lively

stacked shipping-container complex.

Maltby Street Market

Lined underneath a Victorian archway near

London Bridge, this weekends-only market

offers a wide range of food, from gyoza and

Spanish tapas to pâtisserie treats.

East Street Market

For an un-touristy London market experience,

ease your way inside Walworth’s iconic and

cramped stall corridor for fresh produce,

assorted goods and mostly African clothing.

Tooting Market

A Tooting High St stalwart for over 90 years,

with a global range of vendors. Eat at several

food stations, shop around or sip gin cocktails

from a micro-distillery.

Herne Hill Market

While away a Sunday afternoon at this pedes-

trianised strip just outside Herne Hill Station

featuring artisanal crafts, vintage items and

gourmet bites.

Ĳ Cultural Exhibits

Black Cultural Archives

One of the UK’s foremost spaces highlighting

the Black British experience. The national

heritage centre has a revolving calendar of

insightful (and free) exhibits.

Southwark Heritage Centre

& Walworth Library

A snazzy cultural centre near Elephant &

Castle Station, with exhibitions and artefacts

showcasing the local area’s rich history.

Pop Brixton

WILLY

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PECKHAM

&

SOUTH

LONDON REVIEWS

189

DAY TRIPS

HERITAGE I CULTURE I FOOD

 Trip Builder (p192)

 Explore Vineyards in

Canterbury (p194)

 A Royal Day at

Windsor Castle (p196)

 Follow the Cambridge

Food Trail (p198)

 Literary Magic in

Oxford (p202)

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Oxford

Portsmouth

Leicester

Reading

I G

DAY

TRIPS BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

192

FROM LEFT: KIEV.VICTOR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

PLATSLEE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PREVIOUS SPREAD: TRAVELLIGHT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

In an hour or less, you can

travel from London to fascinating

historic cities like Oxford, Cambridge,

Windsor or Canterbury, where you can

marvel at two of the oldest universities

in the English-speaking world, a

1000-year-old castle and an even older

cathedral.

Trip Notes

Best for History, heritage, culture and food.

Transport Well connected from London with daily

direct trains.

Getting around Easy to navigate on foot or

bike. Local transport services are efficient and

inexpensive.

Tip Leave early and return late to get the cheapest

fares and make the best of your time.

DAY

TRIPS

Trip Builder

Tour Christ Church

College to see the

real-life inspiration for

Alice's Adventures in

Wonderland and Harry

Potter.

Ġ 20 min walk from

Oxford Station

Visit the Divinity School and

marvel at its Perpendicular Gothic

architecture featured in Harry Potter

and the Philosopher’s Stone.

Ġ 15 min walk from Oxford Station

Explore Windsor Castle and

visit the vaults that hold the

bodies of Henry VIII and his

third wife, Jane Seymour.

Ġ 7 min walk from Windsor &

Eton Riverside Station

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English

Channel

(La Manche)

Strait

of Dover

Whitstable

Bury St

Edmunds

Dover

Windsor

Guildford

Southend-on-Sea

Margate

Peterborough

Norwich

Cambridge

Brighton

Canterbury

Chelmsford

Eastbourne

Folkestone

Maidstone

Hastings

LONDON

Chartham

ġ Q

ġ I

Y

Ň

e

0

50 km

0

25 miles

Spend a few hours experiencing

literary heritage at the University

of Cambridge’s Wren Library.

ŉ 20 min walk from Cambridge

Station

Punt along The

Backs of Cambridge

University colleges to

catch a glimpse of the

prestigious colleges.

Ġ Punting stations are

30–40 min walk from

Cambridge Station

Explore 1400 years of medieval history at

Canterbury Cathedral.

Ġ 10 min walk from Canterbury West Station

Learn about viticulture from the

18th century to modern day at

Chartham Vineyard.

ŀ 20–30 min bike ride from

Canterbury Cathedral

Cycle around Windsor Great Park and

spot migrating birds all year round.

ŀ 30–40 min by bike from Windsor Castle

JACOBS

STOCK

PHOTOGRAPHY

LTD/GETTY

IMAGES

©

INSPIRED

BY

MAPS/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

DAY

TRIPS EXPERIENCES

194

How to

Getting there Trains

from London arrive at

Canterbury East or West

Stations, both a short

walk from the cathedral.

Getting around It’s a

quick train ride from

Canterbury West to Char-

tham Station, where the

vineyard is located.

Tip There is a daily

morning prayer open to

all at the cathedral at

7.30am Monday to Friday

and 9.15am Saturday and

Sunday.

Explore Vineyards in

CANTERBURY

HISTORY I VINEYARDS I CYCLING

42

There are several good reasons to visit Canterbury in Kent: it’s home

to England’s first cathedral, Canterbury Cathedral; the town is less than 30

minutes by car from popular British seaside towns of Whitstable, Margate

and Broadstairs; and it’s just a short train or bike ride to a vineyard that has a

history dating back to the 14th century.

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Whitstable Bay

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ur

River

Whitstable

Chilham

Seasalter

Faversham

Chartham

Canterbury

Chartham

Vineyard

0

5 km

0

2.5 miles

e

Top Wine tasting Bottom Canterbury

Cathedral

DAY

TRIPS EXPERIENCES

195

England’s first cathedral It would be tough to visit Canter-

bury and miss the 1400-year-old, 72m-high Canterbury

Cathedral (11 The Precincts). Sometimes referred to as

‘England in stone’, it has magnificent Gothic architecture,

stunning gardens and as many historically important artefacts

– paintings, manuscripts, photographs and records – as

you might expect from a World Heritage Site. This is one of

the most visited places in the UK so expect a well-regulated

crowd. Tours of the cathedral can be booked in advance via

the website.

Enjoy English winemaking From the cathedral it’s a scenic

6km, traffic-free bike ride along Great Stour River to Char-

tham and its vineyard (Station Rd). Kent has a long history of

viticulture dating back to the Domesday Book, which recorded

a survey of England and Wales under the orders of William the

Conqueror. Chartham Vineyard has records dating back to

1303 as well as buildings dating from the 18th century. Take a

guided vineyard tour and learn about the traditional and mod-

ern approaches to viticulture and winemaking. Group tours

and tastings are available at 11am and 2pm on Saturday only.

Tours with tastings cost £20 per person and must be booked

in advance via the website.

Ħ

Chartham

Vineyard’s

Best Wines

Blanc de blancs (2020)

A delicate sparkling with

flavours of peach, citrus

and a fine mousse made

from 100% chardonnay

grapes hand-picked in late

September 2019.

Pinot noir (2022) A del-

icate yet firm, silky, rich

red with morello cherry

notes made from 100%

pinot noir grapes hand-

picked in October 2021.

Bacchus (2023) A floral,

aromatic white made

from 100% bacchus

grapes hand-picked in

September 2022.

Pinot gris (2023) A

high-quality dry white

with gentle flavours and

texture made from 100%

pinot gris grapes hand-

picked in October 2023.

Some wines may be re-

placed with later vintages.

Recommended

by Roz and

Richard

Goodenough,

co-owners of Chartham

Vineyard

DAY

TRIPS EXPERIENCES

Top Royal Guard, Windsor

Bottom St George's Chapel

196

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Windsor

Great Park

Windsor

Great Park

The

Long

Walk

St George's

Chapel

Windsor

Castle

Windsor

& Eton

Riverside

Windsor

& Eton

Central

Private Palace Grounds

(restricted entry)

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200 m

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0.1 miles

Windsor Castle has been a

residence to 40 monarchs since

William the Conqueror in the

11th century. The town itself is a

cosmopolitan hangout with great

shopping, restaurants and cafes, all

with the oldest and largest occupied

castle in the world as a backdrop. The

Changing of the Guard ceremony is an

unmissable highlight.

The Changing of the Guard

ceremony is the highlight

for many visitors to Windsor.

The guards march through

the town centre, in full regalia

and accompanied by a band,

from 10.45am and arrive at the

castle at 11am. If you want to

watch the rest of the ceremo-

ny, which happens within the

castle, you will need a ticket.

With an entry ticket, it is

possible to visit the state

apartments, the semi-state

rooms and the Waterloo

Chamber and see Queen

Mary’s Dolls’ House, built

by British architect Sir Edwin

Lutyens with contributions

from over 1500 artists,

craftspeople and manufac-

turers. You can also enter

How to

Getting there Frequent daily trains from London’s

Waterloo and Paddington Stations run to the

stations in Windsor; the journey takes between 30

minutes and an hour.

Getting around See the sights on foot; there are

also hop-on hop-off buses around the town. Wind-

sor Great Park is around 5 miles south of the castle;

buses take around half an hour to get here or it’s a

quick ride in a taxi.

When to go Any time of year but make it Tuesday,

Thursday or Saturday to see the Changing of the

Guard.

A Royal Day at Windsor

CASTLE

CASTLE | NATURE | HISTORY

43

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St George’s Chapel, where

King Henry VIII and third wife,

Jane Seymour, rest.

From the castle, Windsor

Great Park (the Crown

Estate) is a bus or taxi ride

away. The Long Walk is

iconic for its view of Windsor

Castle in the distance. You

can also cycle through parts

of the park; it’s on National

Cycle Route Network 4.

The rest of the park is best

enjoyed on foot. The Savill

Garden, Valley Gardens

and Virginia Water are truly

enjoyable and Queen Anne’s

Ridge & Stag Meadow is

great for a picnic. Alterna-

tively, the Virginia Water

Pavilion Cafe makes for a

good pit stop for lunch.

Windsor Great Park, large

parts of which are designated

as conservation areas, is also

great for bird-spotting –

carry your binoculars.

ĵ

Bird-Spotting

at Windsor

Great Park

January–April Fieldfare,

kingfisher, redwing

May–August Chiffchaff,

swift, ring-necked parakeet

September–December

Goldfinch, common buzzard,

great spotted woodpecker

 Tips by Flock Together,

a birdwatching collective

for people of colour,

@flocktogether.world

198

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TRIPS EXPERIENCES

FOOD I HERITAGE I CYCLING

44

Cambridge’s local food

scene is a thing of beauty that

makes it possible to take the less-

trodden path to points of interest.

The city’s diverse community

has created a string of inventive

eateries with each experience

raising the game higher.

Follow the Cambridge

FOOD TRAIL

JOHN

BRACEGIRDLE/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

Ĥ Punting Tour

Take a picnic punting tour

with the Traditional Punting

Company and raise a glass

to honour the Xu Zhimo

Memorial Garden at King’s

College as you pass. The

famous Chinese poet studied

and spent time here. The

first and last lines from his

poem,‘Second Farewell to

Cambridge’, are carved on a

stone in the garden.

NATHANIEL

NOIR/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

ROBERT

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199

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TRIPS EXPERIENCES

Top left The Pint Shop Bottom left The

Haunted Bookshop Above right Xu Zhimo

Memorial Garden

Get to Know Cambridge’s Literary

Side & Enjoy a Pint

Plath, Hughes, Milne – they all walked the

streets of Cambridge. Bring them to life

with a visit to Trinity College’s Wren Library

at the University of Cambridge. Also worth

visiting is the Haunted Bookshop (9 St

Edward’s Passage) – it’s not haunted! – to

get your hands on rare children’s books.

Don’t miss the Cambridge University

Press Bookshop (1 Trinity St), which has

been selling books since 1581. Finally, show

off your literary genius at the Pint Shop

(10 Peas Hill), which was inspired by the

beer houses of the 1800s, the birthplace of

the modern pub. They sell all the basics –

bread, beer and meat – with style.

How to

Getting there Frequent

daily direct trains

connect London to

Cambridge from

Liverpool St, St Pancras

International and King’s

Cross. The average

journey time is one

hour and 15 minutes.

When to go Any time of

the year. There is plenty

to see and do from

January to December.

How much Train fares

from London to Cam-

bridge start at around

£15 one way. You can

also hire a bike for

the day from Rutland

Cycling at Cambridge

Station.

200

Experience Student Life & Eat at

Bread & Meat

Who better to give an insight into Cambridge

University life than a graduate or alumni guide?

Take a tour of the colleges with one, walk the

gardens and be captivated by the long history

of the university. Afterwards, head to Bread &

Meat (4 Bene’t Street) for wholesome food.

The roast-meat sandwiches with poutine – the

Canadian dish of French fries and cheese curds

topped with gravy – is a speciality.

Hunt for Vintage on Mill Road

Spend a few hours at Mill Road and find vintage

homeware, vinyl and pre-loved clothing among

the many independents that line this busy

street. After browsing, head across town to the

rooftop of the Varsity Hotel & Spa (Thompson

La, off Bridge St). It was started by a group of

Cambridge graduates and the roof terrace has

the best view over the city. The hotel’s River Bar

Steakhouse & Grill next door has a great steak

and fish menu for dinner with a view.

ŀ

Ride & Eat at

Guerilla Kitchen

Cycling is the best way to

get around cycle-friendly

Cambridge and you can hire

a bike for the day pretty

much anywhere. Follow the

cycle route from Midsum-

mer Common along River

Cam to the village of Water-

beach (6.5 miles one way).

It’s an easy scenic ride.

Along the way look out for

the Guerrilla Kitchen Bao

Bus (guerrillakitchen.co.uk)

serving buns filled with pork

belly, chicken and halloumi

cheese. Pre-ordering

online and collecting your

baos from the bus is highly

recommended as, in true

guerilla style, it’s never

parked in the same place.

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Left Market square and St Mary's

Right Fitzbillies

201

Punt, then Tea at Fitzbillies

Cambridge without punting is like fish without

chips. Where to punt? The Backs. This area of

central Cambridge runs along the back of seven

of Cambridge University’s most prestigious

colleges: Magdalene, St John’s, Trinity, Trinity Hall,

Clare, King’s and Queen’s. The land is privately

owned by the colleges, so unless you’re a student

at Cambridge University, this is the only way to

experience the romanticism of The Backs. Start at

Mill Lane and head along the River Cam, passing

beautiful grassy banks, low medieval bridges and

the staggeringly beautiful architecture of the

university’s colleges. Finish with a pot of tea and

a sticky bun at Fitzbillies (36 Bridge St), close to

Magdalene Bridge punt station. This is the newer

branch of the original bakery (51-52 Trumpington

St), which is more than 100 years old.

DAY

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202

FANTASY I LITERATURE I HISTORY

45

As you walk the streets

of Oxford it’s impossible to miss

the presence of Harry Potter and

Alice in Wonderland, who are

immortalised by a connection to

the University of Oxford’s Christ

Church College. Tour the city to

see why Harry and Alice continue

to draw legions of fans from

around the world.

Literary Magic in

OXFORD

SERG

ZASTAVKIN/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

R

Row a Boat

to Binsey

The story of Alice’s Adven-

tures in Wonderland started

with a tale told on a boat ride

on the Thames. On the boat

were Charles Dodgson (Lewis

Carroll),Reverend Duckworth,

Alice Liddell and her sisters.

Rent a row boat at Folly Bridge

and recreate their journey

to the hamlet of Binsey (1.5

miles northwest of Oxford).

E

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IMAGES

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203

Top left The Great Hall, Christ Church

College Bottom left Alice's Window, Great

Hall Above right Bodley Tower

Take a Tour of Christ Church College

The Great Hall at Christ Church College

has been in use since the 16th century. Its rich

detail inspired the Mad Tea Party in Alice’s Ad-

ventures in Wonderland by Charles Dodgson,

better known by his pen name, Lewis Carroll,

who lived and worked at the college.

On the left wall of the hall you can see Alice’s

Window. The stained-glass window depicts the

real-life inspiration for Alice (Alice Liddell) and

the fictional Alice, wearing a blue dress. Carroll

is to the right, with a dodo identifying him in

the story. Portraits of Carroll and Alice’s father,

Dean Liddell, also hang in the Great Hall.

The fan-vaulted staircase that leads to the

Great Hall was featured in Harry Potter films as

the entrance to Hogwarts; the Great Hall was

recreated in its entirety in a studio for the films.

How to

Getting there Frequent

daily trains connect

London’s Marylebone

and Paddington

Stations to Oxford. The

journey takes 44 min-

utes to 67 minutes.

When to go Oxford is

beautiful year-round.

Visit in July when the

city marks Alice’s Day,

a festival celebrating

Alice in Wonderland.

Tip The Bodleian

Library and Weston

Library, which are part

of the University of

Oxford, are open daily

to visitors.

204

Bodleian Libraries & the Oxford Dodo

Even without Hollywood fame the Bodleian

Libraries at the University of Oxford are

must-visit places in Oxford. The principal

library is the Bodleian Old Library (Broad

Street) which includes Duke Humfrey’s

Library, featured as the Hogwarts Library in

the Harry Potter films. The Divinity School

(Broad St), unmissable for its architecture,

was the Hogwarts Infirmary in the Harry

Potter movie; the room was originally built

as an exam room for the university. Both are

covered by library walking tours.

Visit the Oxford University Museum of

Natural History (Parks Rd) to see the Oxford

dodo, which not only inspired the famous

character in the story of Alice but is also

the most complete remains of a dodo in the

world. The museum houses other remarkable

collections of palaeontology, art and architec-

ture and hosts regular events. Entry is free but

it’s best to book tickets in advance.

ĩ The Perch Inn

Arrive in Binsey and enjoy

British farmhouse food

at the Perch Inn (Binsey

Lane). This 800-year-old

riverside pub, which is as

old as the university, is

where Lewis Carroll did his

first public reading of Alice’s

Adventures in Wonderland.

It has an extensive rustic

garden for outdoor dining

and a thatched roof. The

food is a mix of traditional

and modern British dishes

and includes a vegan menu.

The beer and wine list is

impressive with a good

selection of English wines.

Keep an eye on their social

media as they host events

to celebrate Alice’s Day

in Oxford.

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Left Oxford University Museum

of Natural History Right Bodleian

Libraries

205

Knock on Beguiling Doors

There are many doors that beguile visitors to Ox-

ford. The main door to the Bodleian Old Library

dates back to 1602 and has the coats of arms of

several of the university’s colleges. The gate to the

Weston Library (Broad Street) is inscribed with

‘Si bonus es intres, si nequam ne quaquam’ (If you

are good, enter. If wicked, by no means). Alice’s

Door (not for public viewing) connects the Dean-

ery garden at Christ Church, where Alice Liddell

lived, to the cathedral garden – a gate she would

have found firmly locked, much like her counter-

part in Wonderland.

Shop with Alice & Harry

House of Wonders (48 Cornmarket St) sells all

things Harry Potter including clothing, jewellery

and mugs. Get your hands on your own wand or

a replica of the Golden Egg won at the Triwizard

tournament. Alice’s Shop (83 St Aldates) is

located inside the 15th-century building that in-

spired the illustrations of the Old Sheep’s Shop in

Lewis Carroll’s sequel, Through the Looking-Glass.

Alice Liddell and her sisters lived within walking

distance of this Victorian shop of curiosities. The

tiny shop now sells Alice in Wonderland memora-

bilia and has remained relatively unchanged from

the outside.

206

LONDON NEED

TO

KNOW

Right Portobello Road Market (p162)

208

210

212

ARRIVING

214

MONEY

215

RESPONSIBLE

TRAVEL

216

ACCOMMODATION

GETTING

AROUND

SAFE TRAVEL

ALEX

SEGRE/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

ESSENTIALS

218

Practicalities

LONDON ARRIVING

ALEXANDRE

ROTENBERG/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

CUSTOMS REGULATIONS

Duty-free You can bring in up to 200 cigarettes, 18L of wine or 4L of spirits from

outside the UK under your personal allowance.

CHARGING STATIONS Now available in

all the airports except the smaller South-

end one; sometimes these are embedded

into the seating.

WI-FI Free and easy to access in every

airport serving London.

INTERNATIONAL CURRENCY

EXCHANGE Outlets can be found in

every airport, though rates will always be

better at banks in the city.

AT THE AIRPORT

SIM CARDS

can be easily

acquired at almost

all the airports ei-

ther in a WHSmith,

via a SIM vending

machine or in

Sim Local stores.

These shops are

open until around

10pm while the

machines are

accessible 24/7.

ATMs

Linked to all

the major bank

systems (Visa,

Mastercard,

Maestro etc),

these are in all

the airports and

many dispense

both euros and

GBP (the British

Pound Sterling).

Most visitors to London arrive by air. Long-haul and business passengers normally land at Heathrow

(pictured) or London City, both of which are served by London’s transport system and are the closest to

the city centre. Southend, Gatwick, Luton and Stansted, which are located 25 to 40 miles outside the

city centre, are mostly used for shorter flights run by budget airlines like Ryanair and easy Jet.

EASY STEPS FROM THE AIRPORT TO THE CITY CENTRE

208

209

LONDON ARRIVING

HOW MUCH

FOR A…

£10

for a 2 mile or 10

minute journey

£1.75

foranybusridewith

a £5.25 daily cap

£6

Heathrow to

central London

OTHER POINTS OF ENTRY

Eurostar An increasing number of international visitors arrive via Eurostar’s high-speed passenger rail

service, which links London St Pancras International train station with Paris, Brussels, Amsterdam and

Marseilles. Fares can vary greatly, from £46 for a one-way standard-class ticket to Paris to around £276 for

a fully flexible business premier ticket.

Boat-and-train combo Sail and Rail options are available from Dublin and Belfast to London Euston start-

ing from £40 for a one-way ticket. The services are provided by Translink and Irish Ferries. Stenaline offers

something similar from London Liverpool Street to any station in Holland, with prices starting at around

£67 for a one-way ticket to Amsterdam with an option to purchase a cabin for the overnight ferry.

Bus Probably the cheapest way international visitors enter London is by coach. National Express offers ser-

vices from Dublin, Paris, Amsterdam and Brussels to London Victoria Coach Station, with tickets starting at

£21.52 one way. Flixbus also runs routes from across Europe into London Victoria Coach Station, with single

tickets starting around £21 one way from Paris.

Visitor Oyster cards Oysters are used

to pay for individual journeys on all TfL

services and on special services like

Emirates Air Line cable car. Visitor Oyster

cards can be purchased topped up in

advance from the British Tourist Board

(visitbritainshop.com) or at all airport

train stations. They can then be topped

up at any station, ticket machines, local

convenience stores and online.

Plan your journey

Download Google

Maps and use the

public transport

option to plan your

journeys to/from

the airport; the TfL

Go app is useful

for navigating

London’s public

transport system.

Taxi There are

signposted taxi

pick-up points at

all the airports

and they all accept

card payments.

Ride-share and

taxi app services

usually collect

customers from

the drop-off zones.

Express train Express trains serve

all of the airports except London City,

which is close to central London and

on the Docklands Light Railway (DLR)

line. Depending on the airport, express

trains take passengers to either London

Liverpool St, London Victoria, King’s

Cross or Paddington; tickets start from

£9.90 one way.

Coach There are National Express

coaches from Stansted, Luton and

Gatwick into central London starting

from £11. These go to major transport

hubs like Stratford, London Victoria and

King’s Cross and also have several stops

in between.

Public transport Heathrow airport is on

the Underground’s Elizabeth and Piccadilly

Lines in Zone 6 and is also served by buses

into central London (5am–midnight).

London City Airport is on the DLR train

line that goes to central London.

GETTING TO THE CITY CENTRE

210

LONDON

GETTING

AROUND

UNDERGROUND

The Tube (London

Underground) is

the easiest way of

getting around. It

runs from approx-

imately 5.30am to

12.30am, and 24

hours across five

lines on Friday and

Saturday.

TfL

Transport for

London runs

the city’s public

transport and

its website (tfl.

gov.uk) and app

(TfL Go) are the

best for journey

planning.

BUS

The London bus

network is very

extensive and

efficient, although

in heavy traffic it

can be quicker to

walk. Asingle adult

journey costs £1.75.

CYCLING

Santander Cycles

are a great way

to cover shorter

journeys around

central London,

especially now

London has devel-

oped an extensive

network of cycle

lanes. The easiest

way to hire one is

by downloading

the app. There is

no expectation for

cyclists to wear

helmets.

TAXIS

London’s ubiquitous black cabs are available around the

clock, and while they’re not cheap, you can hardly leave

without getting in one. It’s all for the experience. You can hail

one on the street or order one on a number of different apps,

the most popular being Gett and Freenow.

Increasingly, Londoners are using taxi and ride-share apps

to get around, which are generally a lot cheaper. Uber and

Bolt are the most popular in the city.

OVERGROUND

& DLR

Linked to the Tube

are the Docklands

Light Railway (DLR)

and Overground

Lines. These

connect central

London to parts

further afield, like

Enfield in the north

and Peckham in

the south, or in the

case of the DLR, to

a specific zone like

the Docklands.

WALKING

London is highly

walkable and this

is the best way to

explore its historic

centre, where

many key sights

are close to each

other.

£1.75 for any

bus ride

Kids up to

the age of 10

ride free

Free wi-fi on

Overground

trains

THAMES CLIPPERS

One of the most pleasant ways to get

around is by using the Uber Boat by

Thames Clippers boats along the River

Thames where the stops are close to

several of London’s most significant

sites, such as Big Ben, Shakespeare’s

Globe Theatre and Tower Bridge. The

Clippers run daily between Putney in

the west and Woolwich in the east. An

unlimited daily ticket costs £22.10/11.05

per adult/child.

TRANSPORT TIPS TO HELP YOU GET AROUND

PUBLIC TRANSPORT ESSENTIALS

Navigating the chaos that is London’s train

network.

Transport lines include the Underground, TfL

rail, Docklands Light Railway, Elizabeth Line,

Overground, trams (South London only) and

the Emirates Air Line cable car (across the River

Thames).

Colours and names London’s lines have their own

colours and names. The two most important for

exploring the city centre are the Circle line (yellow)

and the Central line (red).

Fares London’s train fares are ridiculously complex

and dependent on several variables: how you pay

(cash, contactless or Oyster card); the time of day you

travel; the zones you travel through; and how many

journeys you make. The easiest thing to do is to put

your journey into the TfL website or Tfl Go app and let

that work out the cost. The cheapest option for lots

of journeys is to load a daily or weekly travelcard onto

an Oyster card either at a station ticket machine, local

newsagents, online or via the Oyster app.

Oyster vs contactless There is no price difference

in the pay-as-you-go fare when using an Oyster

card or contactless options (with card or phone).

But if your contactless option is via a foreign

bank, then you may by

charged for this and should

consider a Visitor Oyster.

It will also be cheaper to

load a travelcard onto that,

as opposed to the more

expensive paper travelcard.

Transfers between lines

can be made at a number of larger stations across

the network; some of the biggest include Liverpool

St, Bank, Oxford Circus and King’s Cross.

Maps and apps There are transport maps in every

station, on every platform and on every train.

You can also download PDF versions from the TfL

website, or access it through the TfL Go app.

LONDON

GETTING

AROUND

ACCESSIBILITY

Accessibility isn’t great on London’s train network so plan carefully. Look for the blue

and white wheelchair signs on maps for each station. Blue means step-free access

from street to train and white means step-free access only to the platform; ask staff for

assistance boarding the train when necessary. London’s buses have limited wheelchair

space and during busy periods it can be difficult to board.

Left London Underground map

Top right TfL Go app Bottom right Oyster card

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: POSTMODERN STUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

CHRISDORNEY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, THINGLASS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

211

Find a place

to stay in

London

212

UNIQUE AND LOCAL WAYS TO STAY

BOOKING

Some independent hotels offer better rates if

you book directly with them, but in most cases,

using one of the big apps will usually get you the

best price. The busy periods are the summer hol-

idays (July and August) and around Christmas

and New Year.

Booking.com Extremely popular accomodation

site offering discounts for loyalty.

Hostelworld (hostelworld.com) Cheap hostels

often aimed at backpackers and solo travellers.

Luxury Serviced Apartments (luxuryserviced

apartments.com) Great site for upmarket serviced

aparthotels in popular districts.

HOSTELS

There are fewer and fewer hostels in

central London, as rental rates continue

to increase. However, they remain the

cheapest options, especially for solo

travellers. Some also have family rooms.

B&BS

B&Bs are a dying breed and more com-

mon outside the city centre. They offer a

cosier, homely option at reasonable rates

and usually with a hearty breakfast.

HOTELS

The main form of traditional tourist

accommodation found all over London.

Those in the centre and close to the

Thames will be the most expensive.

PRIVATE RENTAL & AIRBNB

The trend of offering up one’s London

flat for private rental is ever popular; you

will find many options but they will not

come cheap.

APARTHOTEL

A cross between an apartment and

hotel, these are usually more upmar-

ket, situated in highly convenient and

desirable locations, with a concierge and

cleaner.

aparthotel

from £170

hotel

from £150

hostel

from £30

HOW MUCH

FOR A NIGHT

IN A...

London is notoriously expensive for accommodation, with the

cheapest options being the few hostels that remain. Try cosier,

independently run B&Bs away from the centre for a warmer welcome,

or a luxurious serviced aparthotel for the more glamorous London

experience, complete with your very own concierge.

LONDON ACCOMMODATION

213

LONDON ACCOMMODATION

WHERE TO STAY,

IF YOU LOVE...

History, architecture & secret gardens City of

London (p56) Oodles of history and impressive

skyscrapers within walking distance; surprisingly

quiet at night and not cheap.

Theatre, dancing & shopping West End (p34)

Expensive but exciting. Lots of late-night

entertainment and it’s great for a shopping spree,

but there’s not much quiet here.

 Parks, luxury & museums Kensington &

Hyde Park (p92) Refined and elegant with

several world-class museums, though cheap

accommodation is difficult to come by and it’s a

25-minute commute from central London.

Markets, boutique shopping & gastropubs

Notting Hill & West London (p158) The famous

market is here, as is the carnival, but it’s tough

getting reasonably priced accommodation.

 Culture, art & food markets South Bank (p76)

Enjoy world-class art and theatre, all within close

proximity of one another, and affordable sleeping

options away from the river.

Bars, live music & shopping Clerkenwell,

Shoreditch & Spitalfields (p108) Plenty of bars

and restaurants, but don’t expect any peace and

quiet. Plenty of accommodation options and close

to the City.

Boutique shops, green space & Anatolian

food Hampstead & North London (p140) Home

to the famous Heath and favoured by the wealthy.

Pleasantly quiet and convenient, but it’s pricey and

a 20- to 30-minute commute to the city centre.

Culture, local markets & food East London

(p122) Edgy Michelin-starred and ethnic food

galore. The best local markets, reasonably priced

accommodation and it’s surprisingly close to

central London.

Local culture, food & microbreweries Brixton,

Peckham & South London (p174) Exciting and

vibrant spots with a very local feel; it’s the

furthest of all from the centre and, therefore,

has the cheapest accommodation.

Previous page Ritz Hotel Left Hampstead Heath (p148)

Above Butcher, Borough Market (p82)

FROM LEFT: CHRISPICTURES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, ALEX SEGRE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

MYLES NEW/LONELY PLANET ©

214

LONDON SAFE

TRAVEL

I

WEI

HUANG/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

UNLICENSED

TAXIS

Don’t ever use an

unlicensed taxi.

Always stick to

either black taxis

or those ordered

through an

established taxi or

ride-share app.

PHARMACIES

Pharmacies are

common all over

London and many

are open seven

days a week; a

number are open

24 hours.

EDGY NEIGHBOURHOODS

There’s a reason they’re edgy; when exploring these areas, stick

to the main tourist strips and do not go exploring solo into unfa-

miliar parts, especially at night as muggings and pickpocketing,

though rare, are not unheard of.

CROSSING ROADS

As well as making sure you look the right way when crossing

roads, there is now a series of cycle lanes between the pavement

and the road so be careful when crossing these.

MEDICAL SERVICES

EU nationals can obtain free medically necessary treatment on

presentation of a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC).

Reciprocal arrangements with the UK allow Australians, New

Zealanders and residents and nationals of several other

countries to receive free emergency medical treatment and

subsidised dental care through the National Health Service.

London is safe for its size, but use common sense. Occasional terror attacks do

happen, but the risk to individuals is low. Keep an eye on handbags, wallets and

phones in bars and nightclubs and on public transport.

SAFE TRAVEL

215

LONDON MONEY

CURRENCY

HOW MUCH

FOR A…

British Pound

Dinner for two

at Gaucho

£120

(notincludingdrinks)

pint of beer

£8

coffee

£2.90

CASHLESS SOCIETY

Cash usage continues to decline in London and for services

like taxis ordered via apps, there is no cash option. However,

most restaurants, eateries and tourist services will normally

accept cash.

CHANGING

MONEY

If possible change

money at a local

post office, as

commission is not

charged here. Oth-

er options include

banks, some travel

agencies and the

bureaux de change

across the city.

ATMS

ATMs are every-

where in London.

Bank ATMs are

free to use, where-

as private ones

charge a small

fee. ATMs in entry

ports (air and

rail) also dispense

euros.

DISCOUNTS & SAVINGS

All sites, activities and transport offer

discounts for students, seniors, children,

carers and families. There are also a

number of city passes that allow visitors

to save on entrance fees to major sites.

The most popular is The London Pass,

which starts at £74 for adults and £59

for children.

SPLITTING THE

BILL

Most restaurants

are happy to take

payments from

individual diners.

However, who pays

what will need

to be worked out

by diners unless

separate bills are

requested at the

start.

TIPPING

Londoners tip 10%

in restaurants or

15% if impressed

with the service.

Some establish-

ments bill with

a service charge

already included.

For most other

services, like taxis

or bartending,

tipping is optional.

CREDIT & DEBIT CARDS

The growing popularity of contactless

payments (card/phone) means even

market stallholders will have a machine

to tap and pay on. Card transactions are

subject to additional charges for foreign

cardholders. American Express and

Diners Club are far less widely accepted

than Visa and Master Card.

QUICK TIPS TO HELP YOU MANAGE YOUR MONEY

GIVE BACK

Get fit and give back with the

Goodgym (goodgym.org), where

you run, walk or cycle to do

good; help a vulnerable member

of society, visit a lonely elder or

take part in a community project,

all while getting fit.

Volunteer at the Food

Cycle (foodcycle.org.uk) and

feed hundreds of vulnerable

Londoners by turning surplus

food into wholesome, nutritious

meals and generating a sense of

community.

Clean up London’s canals

with London Boaters and Moo

Canoes (p132). Float along the

city’s beautiful waterways in a

canoe and exchange your trash

for treats at these weekly and

monthly events.

216

LONDON RESPONSIBLE

TRAVEL

Positive, sustainable and feel-good experiences around the city.

RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL

Above Goodgym Right Portobello Road

Market (p162)

FROM LEFT: GOODGYM ©,

OLESEAVETRILA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

CHOOSE

SUSTAINABLE VENUES

Shop at pioneering ethical

shops. Karavan Eco, for example,

has been banging this drum since

1995 and is the ideal place to grab

your bamboo socks and T-shirts.

Watch a play at London’s

carbon-neutral theatre, the

Arcola Theatre in Dalston, where

carbon emissions have been

reduced by 25%, solar panels

installed, locally brewed beer is

served and on Tuesday you‘pay

what you can’.

Eat from a waste-reducing

menu. St John in Smithfields

(p121) makes delicious food using

all those parts – tongues, trotters

and bones – often thrown away by

butchers these days.

Go on an Unseen tour, which

allows formerly homeless and

socially excluded people to earn

a living by guiding you through

their city.

217

LONDON RESPONSIBLE

TRAVEL

CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL

Lonely Planet urges all travellers to engage with their travel carbon footprint,

which will mainly come from air travel. While there often isn’t an alternative,

travellers can look to minimise the number of flights they take, opt for newer

aircrafts and use cleaner ground transport, such as trains.

One proposed solution—purchasing carbon offsets—unfortunately does

not cancel out the impact of individual flights. While most destinations will

depend on air travel for the foreseeable future, for now, pursuing ground-

based travel where possible is the best course of action.

The UN Carbon Offset Calculator shows how flying impacts a

household’s emissions:

The ICAO’s carbon emissions calculator allows visitors to

analyse the CO2 generated by point-to-point journeys:

LEARN MORE

Attend a cultural festival and learn about

British-Bangladeshis at the Boisakhi Mela (p25).

Visit London’s diverse neighbourhoods like

Anatolian north London, Afro-Caribbean south

London and Bangladeshi east London.

Educate yourself about the history of London’s

residents at little-known institutes like the Kobi

Nazrul Centre (p131) and the Black Cultural

Archives (p189).

SUPPORT LOCAL

Visit real London markets. Buy from stalls run by

locals for locals.

Eat and shop locally. Purchase a leather handbag

from Paradise Row (paradiserowlondon.com) made

by a local artisan helping to revive east London’s lost

leather trade; eat dinner cooked with locally sourced

ingredients at the Barge East Restaurant (p129).

Raise a glass to independent brewers. Drink from

locally owned microbreweries like the Crate Brewery

in Hackney and the Kernel Brewery at Bermondsey.

RESOURCES

handsonlondon.org.uk

wildlondon.org.uk

socialenterprise.org.uk

safh.org.uk

londonyouth.org

LEAVE A SMALL FOOTPRINT

Shop at zero-waste grocery stores that let you bring

your own container.

Take your own mug along to coffeeshops.

Always keep your reusable shopping bag handy.

Cycle or walk as much as you can when moving

around the city.

Buy clothes and gifts at the flea markets and

vintage stores.

218

LONDON ESSENTIALS

GOOD TO KNOW

FAST

FACTS

Time Zone

GMT+0

Country Code

44

Electricity

230V/50Hz

ACCESSIBLE TRAVEL

Larger, new hotels are far more accessible than older ones,

so try to book these in advance.

Transport transfer. Check carefully before going from one

accessible train or Tube station to another if you need to

switch lines; sometimes the station where you switch may

not be step-free.

Most major sights like the British Museum or Tower Bridge

have an audio guide or hearing loop facility. Sadly, guides in

braille remain rare.

Visit Transport for London’s accessibility page (tfl.gov.uk/

transport-accessibility) to better plan your journeys on

London’s transport system.

Parking bays reserved for visitors requiring assisted access

are common across London.

Black taxis are all wheelchair accessible and new ones also

have induction loops and intercoms fitted for hearing aid users.

Buses are much easier to access outside of peak travel

times: they can all be lowered to street level; wheelchair

users travel free and have priority over pushchairs for the

wheelchair spaces on buses.

Guide dogs are welcome everywhere.

AccessAble (accessable.co.uk) is an excellent resource that

provides detailed information about accessibility to many of

London’s major sights.

You can bargain for

goods (except food)

in markets but not in

shops.

Visitors from several

nations including

Australia, Canada, US

and New Zealand can

stay up to six months

without a visa.

Escalator etiquette

means standing on the

right and walking on

the left.

The legal age for

buying and drinking

alcohol is 18.

WI-FI

Wi-fi is available for free in most cafes,

bars and the Overground.

LISTINGS

Free newspapers

and magazines

like the Evening

Standard, Metro

and Time Out are

good for listings.

POSTCODES

Work out which

part of London

a place is in by

the letter the

postcode begins

with; E for East, W

for West etc.

ESSENTIAL NUTS-AND-BOLTS

219

LONDON ESSENTIALS

MARIO-GALAS/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

LGBTIQ+ TRAVELLERS

Outright discrimination is very rare in London, especially

in the centre of town, though it is not unheard of in more

conservative and local neighbourhoods.

British culture is still not wholly comfortable with open or

extended public displays of affection.

Soho’s gay village is the best place for a concentration of

venues guaranteed to feel welcoming.

Time Out London LGBT (timeout.com/london/lgbt)

remains one of the best sites for LGBTIQ+ listings in the

capital.

WEIGHTS & MEASURES

The UK has a wonderfully confusing mix

of both metric and imperial systems for

measuring and weighing things.

TOILETS

• Most eating establishments and pubs let

you use their toilets if you walk in and ask.

• Some train stations require you to pay to enter.

• Several chain cafes/restaurants have a coded entry with codes printed on the receipt.

• Some larger parks still have public toilets.

FAMILY TRAVEL

Free travel on buses and trains for

children aged 10 and under.

Pushchair space is limited on public

transport, especially at peak times

when some buses won’t even let

them on.

Changing facilities for babies are

most common in larger chain cafes in

central London.

Family eating is easy at chains like

Nandos, Wagamama and Giraffe, which

have highchairs and kids’menus, as

do some family-friendly pubs in more

residential neighbourhoods.

Admission at all tourist sights is

considerably cheaper for children

than adults.

SMOKING &

VAPING

Banned indoors

and near many

buildings, so look

for designated

smoking areas.

GREETING

When meeting

someone formally

for the first time,

shake their hand.

APOLOGISING

Londoners, like all

Brits, apologise

all the time. It’s a

cultural thing.

220

Index

000 Map pages

41 Cloth Fair 74

A

accessible travel 211, 218

accommodation 212–13

activities 18–25, see also

individual activities

air travel 208–9

Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland

203, 204, 205

animals 165

architecture 88–9, see also

churches & cathedrals

Gothic 104–5, 195

Ottoman 146–7

Roman 60–1

skyscrapers 62–3, 64–5

arts 30, 84–5, 100–1, 104–5, see

also films, galleries, literature,

museums, music, street art

ATMs 208, 215

axe throwing 75

B

Barbican Centre 62, 75

bathrooms 219

baths, Ottoman 146

bats 165

beer 16, 70–1, 128–9, 144–5, 184–5,

71, 185

Great British Beer Festival 19

bicycle travel, see cycling

Big Ben 47

birdwatching 165, 197

boat rides 88, 203, see also ferry

travel

narrowboats 168

punting 193, 199, 201

books 32, 103, 104–5, 156–7, 199

Borough Market 82–3

breweries 16, 184–5, 185, see

also beer

Brick Lane 117, 127

Brixton 174–89, 176–7

drinking 182–3

food 182–3, 188–9

planning 176–7

Buckingham Palace 44–5

Burlington Arcade 55

bus travel 209, 210

C

Cambridge 198–201

cafes 200–1

food 198–201

canoeing 132–3, 216

Canterbury 194–5

Carnaby Street 55

castles & palaces

Buckingham Palace 44–5

Fulham Palace 172

Kensington Palace 100

Westminster Abbey 40–1

Windsor Castle 196–7

cathedrals, see churches &

cathedrals

Cheesegrater, the 63

chemists 214

children, travel with 91, 219

Imagine Children’s Festival 23

Puppet Theatre Barge 169

Chinatown 52–3

churches & cathedrals

All Hallows by the Tower 75

Canterbury Cathedral 195

St Bride’s Church 75

St Dunstan in the East 67

St Mary–le–Bow 75

St Stephen Walbrook 75

cinemas 75, 137, 179

City of London 56–75, 58–9

drinking 70–1

food 74

history 64–5

planning 58–9

Clerkenwell 108–21, 110–11

drinking 121

food 112–13, 120–1

planning 110–11

shopping 121

climate 18–25

clubs 49–50, 51

coffee 30

courses

baking 83

graffiti 166, 167

sausage making 83

crazy golf 75

credit cards 215

Crown Jewels 68–9

culture 10–11, 17, 75, 172, 189

LONDON INDEX

A–C

221

currency 208, 215

customs 208

cycling 12–13, 210

Cambridge 199, 200

Dulwich Park 188

Lea Valley 132–3, 133

Windsor Great Park 193, 197

D

dangers, see safe travel

Darwin, Charles 157

day trips 190–205, 192–3

planning 192–3

disabilities, travellers with 211,

218

distilleries

Bermondsey Distillery 184–5

City of London Distillery &

Bar 70

London Distillery 184–5

Tooting Market 189

drinks, see beer, distilleries, tea,

wine tasting

drinking & nightlife 48–51, see

also pubs

E

East London 122–39, 124–5

cafes 133

drinking 128–9, 136–7

food 126–7, 129, 131, 138–9

markets 135

planning 124–5

shopping 126–7, 136–7, 139

electricity 218

emergencies 214

environmental issues 217

etiquette 219

Eurostar 209

events, see festivals & events

F

family travel, see children, travel

with

ferry travel 209

festivals & events 18–25

Affordable Art Fair 20

BAFTA 23

Boisakhi Mela 25

Chelsea Flower Show 25

Chinese New Year 23

Christmas 22

Comic Con 24

Flare 24

Great British Beer Festival 19

Guy Fawkes Night 21

Imagine Children’s Festival 23

London Art Fair 23

London Film Festival 20

London Jazz Festival 21

London Marathon 25

Lord Mayor’s Show 21

Mayor’s Thames Festival, the 20

New Years 22

Notting Hill Carnival 19, 172

Open Garden Squares

Weekend 18

Open House London 20

Oxbridge Boat Race 25

Pride London 19

St Patrick’s Day 24

Trooping the Colour 18

Wimbledon Lawn Tennis

Championships 18

Wireless 19

films 33, 72–3, 104–5, 203, 204

food 6–7, see also markets,

individual neighbourhoods

Chinatown 52–3

free experiences 30, 88–9

G

Gabriel’s Wharf 91

galleries 186–7, see also

museums

Graffik Gallery 166–7

Queen’s Diamond Jubilee

Galleries 40–1

Serpentine Gallery 100–1

gardens, see parks & gardens

Gherkin, the 63

gin, see distilleries

Globe Theatre 86–7

Golden Hinde 91

Graffik Gallery 166–7

graffiti workshops 167

H

Hampstead 140–57, 142–3

drinking 144–5

food 156

history 157

planning 142–3

shopping 157

Hampstead Heath 148–9

Harrods 98–9

Harry Potter 202–5

health 214

Highgate Cemetery 145

historic sites

abandoned Tube stations 152–3

Clerkenwell 112–13, 113

Globe Theatre 86–7

Gothic London 104–5

historic pubs 70–1, 144–5

houses 172

Merton Priory 181

Old Finsbury Town Hall 113

Oxford 202

Roman London 60–1

Royal College of Music 97

LONDON INDEX

C–H

222

000 Map pages

historic sites continued

Thames 180–1

Tower of London 68–9

Windsor Castle 196–7

hostels 212

hotels 212

Houses of Parliament 47

Hyde Park 92–107, 94–5

planning 94–5

I

Immersive Gamebox 91

insurance 214

itineraries 26–9, see also walks &

walking tours

J

Jack the Ripper 105

K

Kensington 92–107, 94–5

afternoon tea 107

drinking 102–3

food 98–9, 102–3, 106–7

history 104–5

planning 94–5

shopping 98–9, 102–3, 107

Kensington Gardens 100–1

L

language 31

LGBTIQ+ travellers 49, 50, 51,

115, 219

Liberty 55

literature 32, 104–5, 199, 202–5,

see also books

Little Venice 168–9

Lloyd’s Building 63

London Dungeon 91

London Eye 47, 91

M

markets 8–9

Acklam Village Market 163

Bethnal Green Market 138

Between the Bridges 81

Borough Market 82–3

Brixton Village Market 182–3

Broadway Market 126

Chatsworth Road Market 135

Chelsea Farmers Market 103

Columbia Road Flower Market

127

East End 126–7

East London 138

East Street Market 189

Electric Avenue Market 182–3

Exmouth Market 112

Flat Iron Square 81

Herne Hill Market 189

Lower Marsh Market 81

Maltby Street Market 189

Market Place Peckham 179

Mercato Metropolitano 189

Old Spitalfields Market 117

Petticoat Lane 138

Pop Brixton 189

Portobello Road Market 162–3

Ridley Road Market 135

Roman Market 138

Smithfield Market 74, 113

South Bank 80–1

Southbank Centre Book

Market 91

Southbank Centre Food

Market 81

Tooting Market 189

Vinegar Yard 81

Whitechapel Market 138

Marx, Karl 143, 144

medical services 214

mobile phones 208

money 208, 215

mosques

Aziziye Mosque 143, 147

Brick Lane Mosque 131

etiquette 147

Masjid Ramadan 147

Suleymaniye Mosque 147

museums 75, 106, 139, 156, see

also galleries

Bank of England Museum 75

Black Cultural Archives 189

Burgh House 149

Chisenhale Gallery 139

Clink Prison Museum 91

Design Museum 172

Fenton House 156

Freud Museum 156

Fulham Palace 172

Keats House 156

London Museum 75

London Museum Docklands

139

Merton Priory 181

Museum of the Home 139

National Army Museum 106

Natural History Museum 106

Oxford University Museum of

Natural History 204

Ragged School Museum 139

Royal College of Music

Museum 97

Science Museum 106

St John’s Gate 113

Victoria & Albert Museum 106

Wandle Industrial Museum 181

Whitechapel Art Gallery 139

William Morris Gallery 156

LONDON INDEX

H–M

223

LONDON INDEX

M–S

music 32, 114–15, 136–7, 137

jazz 115, 135

live music 85, 114–15, 129, 135

opera 38–9, 165

Royal College of Music 96–7

Theatre Royal Drury Lane 42–3

N

nature, see also parks & gardens

Lea Valley 132–3

River Wandle 180–1

Wandle Meadow Nature Park 181

Watermeads Nature Reserve 181

newspapers 218

nightlife 48–51, see also pubs

North London 140–57, 142–3

food 156

planning 142–3

shopping 157

Notting Hill 158–73, 160–1

food 172–3

markets 162–3

planning 160–1

shopping 162–3, 170–1, 173

O

Oxford 202–5

food 204

Oxford Street 55

OXO Tower Wharf 91

Oyster cards 209, 211

P

palaces, see castles & palaces

parks & gardens 15, 54, 66–7, 188

Altab Ali Park 131

Battersea Park 188

Brockwell Park 188

Buckingham Palace Garden 45

Burgess Park 188

Christchurch Greyfriars Church

Garden 67

Crystal Palace Park 188

Dalston Eastern Curve Garden

135

Dulwich Park 188

Fukushima Memorial Garden 165

Garden at 120 67

Hampstead Heath 148–9

Holland Park 164–5

Kensington Gardens 100–1

Kyoto Garden 165

Postman’s Park 67

Regent’s Park 54

Rembrandt Gardens 169

Savill Garden 197

Sky Garden 67

St Alphage Gardens 67

St Dunstan in the East 67

St James’s Park 54

St Vedast–alias–Foster 67

Victoria Tower Gardens 54

Wandle Meadow Nature Park 181

Watermeads Nature Reserve

181

Windsor Great Park 197

Peckham 174–89, 176–7

cafes 179

drinking 178–9

food 178–9, 188

planning 176–7

pétanque 75

pharmacies 214

planning 192–3

podcasts 32

Portobello Road Market 162–3

public transport 209

pubs 70–1, 144–5, see beer,

individual neighbourhoods

punting 193, 199, 201

Q

Queen’s Diamond Jubilee

Galleries 40–1

R

responsible travel 216–17

Roman sites 60–1

Royal College of Music 96–7

Royal Exchange 74

Royal Opera House 38–9

S

safe travel 214

Scalpel, the 63

SEA LIFE Centre London

Aquarium 91

Shakespeare, William 86–7

shopping, see also markets,

individual neighbourhoods

souvenirs 170–1

Shoreditch 108–21, 110–11

drinking 121

food 120–1

live music 114–15

planning 110–11

shopping 121

SIM cards 208

Sky Garden 67

skyscrapers 62–3, 64–5

slang 31

smoking 219

social media 33

Soho 48–51

South Bank 76–91, 78–9

drinking 83

food 82–3, 90

planning 78–9

shopping 83, 91

tours 91

224

000 Map pages

South London 174–89, 176–7

drinking 184–5

food 188

planning 176–7

Southbank Skatepark 85

spas 107

Spitalfields 108–21, 110–11

drinking 121

food 116–17, 120–1

planning 110–11

shopping 121

street art 84–5, 118–19, 135, 166–7

swimming 148–9

T

taxis 209, 210

tea 30, 45, 170

television 72–3

theatres 90, 172, 188–9

Bread & Roses Theatre 189

Britten Theatre 97

Bush Theatre 172

Canal Café Theatre 169

Chelsea Theatre 103

COLAB Tavern 189

Eventim Apollo 172

Garden 43

Globe Theatre 86–7

Lyric Hammersmith Theatre

172

National Theatre 90

Old Vic, The 90

Puppet Theatre Barge 169

Sam Wanamaker Playhouse

86–7

Tara Theatre 188

Theatre Peckham 189

Theatre Royal Drury Lane 42–3

Vaults, The 90

Young Vic, The 90

tipping 215

time 218

toilets 219

Tower of London 68–9

Trafalgar Square 47

travel seasons 18–25

train travel, see Eurostar,

Underground

travel to/from London 208–9

travel within London 210–11

Tube, see Underground

U

Underground 209, 210

abandoned Tube stations 152–3,

154–5

University of Oxford 202–5

V

viewpoints 14, 88–9, 179

vineyards 194–5

volunteering 216

W

Walkie Talkie, the 63

walks & walking tours 12–13, 75

abandoned Tube stations 152–3,

153

Brick Lane 130–1, 131

Dalston 136–7, 137

King’s Road 102–3, 103

Little Venice 168–9, 169

Oxford University 203–5

pub crawls 70–1, 184–5, 70, 185

River Wandle 180–1

skyscrapers 62–3, 63

South Bank food markets

80–1, 81

West End 46–7, 47

Windsor Castle 197

weather 18–25, 30

Webber, Andrew Lloyd 42

West End, the 34–55, 36–7

cafes 39, 54

drinking 39, 48–51, 54

food 39, 50–1, 52–3, 55

planning 36–7

shopping 55

West London 158–73, 160–1

drinking 168–9

food 168–9, 172–3

planning 160–1

shopping 170–1, 173

Westminster Abbey 40–1

Westminster Bridge 88

wi–fi 208, 218

wildlife, see nature

Windsor Castle 196–7

wine tasting 83, 194–5

LONDON INDEX

S–W

225

LONDON NOTES

THIS BOOK

Destination editor

Amy Lynch

Production editor

Amy Lysen

Cartographer

Daniela Machova

Book designer

Norma Brewer

Assisting editors

James Appleton, Soo Hamilton,

Anita Isalska, Helen Koehne,

Ailbhe MacMahon

Cover researcher

Lauren Egan

Thanks

Ronan Abayawickrema,

Kate Mathews

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establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/legal/intellectual-property.
2nd Edition - Jun 2025
ISBN 978 1 83758 841 1

Enjoy afternoon tea at Buckingham Palace Garden. (p44)

Explore Maida Vale’s charming, colourful

houseboat-dotted canals. (pictured left; p168)

Look up at some of the most imaginative architecture

in London’s skyline. (p62)

Dig in at Borough Market, home to a lively mix of

street-food stalls, produce traders, bars and

restaurants. (pictured right; p82)

Sip your way around Hackney’s canal-side

microbreweries. (p128)

Visit the colourful arcades of Brixton Village Market, South

London’s premier international bazaar. (p182)

Shop without breaking the bank at Harrods in

ultra-affluent Knightsbridge. (pictured left; p98)

Discover the disused Tube stations that dot the city. (p152)

Find a music venue that caters to your taste in Shoreditch. (p114)

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