Catherine Le Nevez, Jade Bremner, Jenny Elliott,

Tharik Hussain, Sarah Irving, Emily Luxton,

James March, Lorna Parkes, Vicky Philpott, Beth Pipe

ENGLAND

TURN THE PAGE AND START PLANNING

YOUR NEXT BEST TRIP 

Sip local ales at a cosy country-

pub fireplace. Bike along winding trails

flanked by charming fishing villages and

hidden coves. Put on your hiking boots

and ramble through a patchwork of

rolling hills and chocolate-box villages.

Traverse aqueducts and stop by warm

canalside pubs on a slow narrowboat.

Eat fresh fish and chips on a sea-sprayed

harbour. Study spectacular street art and

meander through some of the world’s

greatest museums.

This is England.

Previous SPREAD: JOE DANIEL PRICE/GETTY IMAGES ©,

Previousspread Wiltshire (p118)

Catherine Le Nevez

lonelyplanet.com/authors/catherine-le-nevez

A Lonely Planet author since 2004, contributing to over 100 guides in

some two dozen countries, Catherine has a Doctorate in Creative Arts in

Writing and insatiable wanderlust

Jade Bremner

@jadebremner

Jade Bremner has written more than 60 Lonely Planet books and

specialises in food and drink, culture and adventure travel. She has lived

on four different continents but London will forever draw her back.

Jenny Elliott

@orderingwords

Jenny loves digging into Northumberland’s past.‘It’s a place with an

off-the-radar beauty, yet it’s often played a pivotal role in British history.’

Her favorite experience is wandering through Roman Corbridge (p202)

before picnicking next to its once-lively high street.

Tharik Hussain

@tharik_hussain @ _tharikhussain

London-based Tharik is author of the acclaimed book Minarets in the

Mountains; AJourney into Muslim Europe, and knows a thing or two about

Muslim heritage and travel. He’s also authored Lonely Planet guides to

Thailand, Bahrain and Saudi Arabia.

Sarah Irving

@the_urban_wanderer

Proud Northerner living in Manchester and lover of rain (luckily!). Sarah is

often found wandering the back streets of the cities and villages of the North

and beyond. Hunting out the overlooked, industrial and curious sides to

the places she visits, encouraging more people to look boyond the tourist

areasand discover more about their destination.

Meet our writers

Emily Luxton

@em_luxton

Emily blames growing up on the Dorset coast for her love of adventure.

Her favourite experience is hiking along the Jurassic Coast (p122)

or spending as much time in the sea as possible, preferably on her

paddleboard.

James Marsh

@socialhandle; @socialhandle

Birmingham native, James sampled the joie de vivre of France and Canada

for three years before returning home to the Second City with the travel

bug. Now a travel writer, he’s passionate about showcasing everything

that’s great about Birmingham.

Lorna Parkes

@Lorna_Explorer

A Londoner who escaped to Yorkshire via Melbourne, Lorna is a travel

journalist, editor and co-author of dozens of Lonely Planet books. She’s

been writing about Yorkshire and the northeast for several years and is

particularly fond of the old country pubs, though she’s not sure she’ll ever

get over the questionable northern weather.

Vicky Philpott

@vickyflipflop

Vicky’s happiest when she’s by the sea. She’s a year-round paddle-

boarder and loves to venture out to new top spots, ideally with a

waterside pub along the way. She grew up in the Midlands but now lives

on the sunny south coast, in Southsea. She’s the editor and founder of

DayOutinEngland.com.

Beth Pipe

@CumbrianRambler

Beth is based in South Cumbria and is never happier than when she’s

outdoors. She describes herself as a ‘nosey hiker’ and is endlessly

curious about the things around her. Together with husband Steve, she

has published 12 books exploring the history, wildlife, gins and beers

of Cumbria and North Lancashire. Her aim is to have fun outdoors,

discover new and exciting views, and finally locate the ultimate toasted

teacake.

3

ENGLAND

MEET

OUR

WRITERS

4

Contents

Best Experiences ................6

Calendar ............................16

Trip Builder....................... 24

7 Things to Know

About England................. 34

Read, Listen, Watch

& Follow............................ 36

London & Around

38

Climb the Cutty Sark ....... 44

Lido Life............................ 48

Gruesome London........... 50

Canal Cruising.................. 52

Leave Your Mark............... 56

Devour Pie & Mash .......... 58

Drag Crawl........................ 62

London’s Lost Tunnels..... 64

A Night at the Museum.... 66

Listings ............................. 68

Southeast England

72

Cycling among Royalty.....78

Self-Guided Punting ......... 82

Exploring the

Waterways........................ 84

Brighton Food Tour .......... 86

Seafood by the Beach...... 92

Drive the Norfolk Coast ... 94

Vintage Shopping............ 96

The Cotswolds

by Train........................... 100

Hike the White Cliffs .......102

On Safari in England .......104

Listings ............................106

Southwest England 108

Banksy’s Bristol.............. 114

Narrow-Boat Drifting...... 118

Relaxation, Romans

& Regency.......................120

Jurassic Thrills................122

Solent Sail Days ..............128

Island Escape..................130

Coastal Trails ...................132

Go Wild on

Dartmoor.........................136

Cornwall by Rail...............138

Scilly Food-Hopping ........140

Listings ............................142

Birmingham &

the Midlands

146

Eyes to the Sky ................152

Beer Country ...................156

Shropshire Hills

Road Trip ..........................158

Peak Practice..................160

Spice Routes...................164

The Malverns

by Rail..............................166

Land of Imagination........168

Listings ............................ 172

Yorkshire &

the Northeast

174

Riding the Rails

to Haworth ...................... 180

Modern British Food

in Medieval York ..............184

A Film Tour

of Yorkshire ......................186

Exploring the Dales........ 190

Newcastle-upon-Tyne

Then & Now.....................194

Seafood & Salty Air

on the Coast....................196

Listings ............................198

Hike Hadrian’s Wall 200

Northwest

England

206

Scandi Stories .................212

Grounded inNature........214

Runway Hiking ................220

Nostalgic Shores ............ 222

The Perfect G&T

in Ulverston.................... 224

Poets &

Swashbucklers............... 226

A Grand Tour of

the Lake District............. 228

Lancaster, the

Festival City....................230

CARONB/GETTY

IMAGES

©

ENGLAND CONTENTS

5

Oxford (p167)

ENGLAND CONTENTS

Beyond Blackpool

Tower .............................. 232

Listings ........................... 234

Practicalities

236

Arriving ........................... 238

Getting Around...............240

Safe Travel ...................... 242

Money............................. 243

Responsible Travel ......... 244

Accommodation ............ 246

Essentials ....................... 248

ESSAYS

Treading the Boards......... 46

Margate’s Popularity

Boom ................................ 80

King Arthur’s England..... 116

Game Changer................154

How Whitby Became the

North’s Queen of Quirk...182

Murderous Millinery........218

VISUAL GUIDES

Southeast England

Castles.............................. 90

Historic Icons ..................126

Modern Midlands

Storytellers......................170

Outdoor Sculpture

in the Northeast ..............192

Flora & Fauna of

Fletcher Moss..................216

6

ENGLAND

BEST

EXPERIENCES

THE ART OF

THE PUB

The pub has always been the

beating heart of social life in England.

Both a warm shelter from the winter

chill and a gregarious hive of activity

in the summer, the pub (short for

‘public house’) is a welcoming hub for

communities stretching from Hadrian’s

Wall to Land’s End. Whether it’s for a

quiet pint, a Sunday roast or a weekend

knees-up, you’ll be enjoying the oldest of

English traditions.

There are around

39,000 pubs

in England and

Wales.

Roughly 8.5 billion

pints of beer are

sold each year in

the UK.

Stella Artois is

the most popular

brand of beer in

the UK.

RIGHT:

JEFF

GILBERT/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©;

LEFT:

SAMPAJANO_ANIZZA/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

ANN

IN

THE

UK/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

7

Left Pub interior, London

Right Sunday roast

Below Watching football in a pub

ENGLAND BEST

EXPERIENCES

SAMPLE THE CLASSICS

While ostentatious craft beers are all the rage now, try and

seek out classic English cask beer styles like bitters, milds

and golden ales.

Û WEEKEND WARRIORS

Weekends are when the pub truly comes to life,

especially when that other great English passion –

football – is being broadcast live to its fervent followers.

Ú MUST-TRY

Featuring roast beef,

Yorkshire pudding,

mashed potato and

vegetables doused in

warm gravy, the Sunday

roast is the ultimate

expression of English

pub food.

Best Pubs

u Sink a pint at (allegedly)

England’s oldest surviving inn

in Nottingham. (p157)

u Explore the colourful

craft beer pubs, bars and

taprooms of Liverpool’s Baltic

Triangle. (p212)

u Find some of England’s most

beautiful country pubs in the

Yorkshire Dales. (p190)

u Sit back with a beer and

watch the coastal scene unfold

at Margate Harbour Arm. (p80)

u Enjoy a summertime cider

at one of London’s many

canalside pubs. (p54)

8

ENGLAND

BEST

EXPERIENCES

ON TWO

WHEELS

While its cities may not yet match

cycling havens like Copenhagen or

Amsterdam, England’s great outdoors

is a spectacular place to explore on two

wheels. From crossing Victorian viaducts

to island coastal trails, getting out of the

city and hiring a bike is England at its

breezy best. Choose a warm summer’s

day and take a leisurely roll through this

lush, ancient land.

RIGHT:

SIMON

DACK

NEWS/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©;

LEFT:

RMC42/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

CHRIS

LAWRENCE

TRAVEL/

SHUTTERSTOCK

©

9

Left Cycling the Monsal Trail (p161)

Right Bike hire shop, Cambridge (p82)

Below Post-cycle pints, Brighton (p86)

ENGLAND BEST

EXPERIENCES

SAFETY FIRST

Always wear a helmet, bring a bottle of water to stay

hydrated and make sure to follow the trail.

Û POST-CYCLE PINTS

As is tradition in England, make sure to celebrate the end

of your journey with a few beers at the pub (but don’t

cycle afterwards).

Ú HOW TO

If you’re not bringing

your own bike, check

before travelling that

there are bike hire shops

at or near the trailhead.

Best Cycle Routes

u Mingle with royalty and

herds of deer when cycling

through Windsor Great

Park. (p78)

u Traverse tunnels and

viaducts on the Monsal

Trail, a disused railway

line meandering through

Derbyshire. (p161)

u Pass by sculptures, towers

and shimmering sea on a cycle

down Blackpool’s coastal

promenade. (p232)

u Cross rich green hills rolling

towards the sea on the Isle of

Wight’s Tennyson Trail. (p130)

7

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I R E L A N D

Irish

Sea

S C O T L A N D

W A L E S

Northumberland

National Park

Yorkshire Dales

National Park

Exmoor

National

Park

Lake District

National Park

Dartmoor

National

Park

Irish Sea

Bristol Channel

Bath

Preston

Gloucester

Shrewsbury

Carlisle

Taunton

Hereford

Bristol

Worcester

CARDIFF

Liverpool

Manchester

Stoke- on-Trent

Exeter

ħ

E v

v

Ő

U

ġ

ġ

ġ

ġ

v

ĥ

Bollin Valley Tunnel

Walk beneath soaring aircraft

Follow a unique river walk into a 200m-long

tunnel passing underneath an airport runway

featuring bat caves and bird’s nests. This tran-

quil trail is occasionally pierced by the noise

of aircraft, but that just adds to its appeal.

ń 25mins from central Manchester

u p220

Jurassic Coast Walk

A 185-million-year-old hike

These 95 miles of gorgeous coastline pass by ancient red sand-

stone, curved rock arches and charming coves. Walk the whole

coastline in seven to 10 days, or choose from countless shorter

trails that each take in a spectacular evolving landscape.

ŉ 3hrs from London

u p122

10

FROM LEFT: MARK WAUGH/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, DUNCAN_ANDISON/GETTY IMAGES ©

ENGLAND

BEST

EXPERIENCES

CINEMATIC

WALKS

From sunny pastoral rambles to wind-whipped

coastal walks, hiking in England offers a variety of

landscapes to explore. Across this country with a

maritime climate that sometimes throws four seasons

at you in one day, you’ll always find a good challenge

on any of these WALKS – don’t forget to rest your weary

legs at the end of the day with a nice cold pint.

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Isle of

Wight

North Sea

English Channel

Norfolk

Broads

Peak District

National Park

North York Moors

National Park

South Downs

National Park

York

Coventry

Cambridge

Norwich

Aylesbury

Durham

Oxford

Chelmsford

Winchester

Leicester

Lincoln

Ipswich

Maidstone

Northampton

Dover

LONDON

Newcastle- upon-Tyne

Hull

Bradford

Leeds

Sheffield

Bakewell

Nottingham

Derby

Birmingham

Swindon

Southampton

Brighton

Canterbury

Eastbourne

I

F

Ĥ

ġ

v

v

v

E

ň

0

200 km

0

100 miles

e

Hadrian’s Wall Hike

Do as the Romans did

Walk in the steps of the ancient Romans,

who were once a long way from home. The

middle section features a cornucopia of

old hillforts, deep blue lakes and ancient

copses as you traverse this famous

2000-year-old trail.

ń 1hr from Newcastle-upon-Tyne

u p200

Dales Way Walk

Yorkshire’s green heartland

Picture-postcard England blanketed with stone walls, rolling

hills, pretty villages and animals grazing on tranquil farmland.

It’s a long walk, so plan accordingly. Passing by the magnificent

19th-century Ribblehead Viaduct is a widescreen highlight.

ŉ 30mins from Leeds

u p190

Seven Sisters Walk

Dramatic chalk cliffs

England’s southern coast boasts

some of the UK’s most striking

scenery. For stunning views,

start the trail in Seaford and

head east towards Cuckmere

Haven, where the white cliffs rise

above the Coastguard Cottages.

ń 2hrs 20mins from London

u p102

Bakewell to Chatsworth Walk

Historic woodlands ramble

Emerge from bucolic woodlands towards

the grandeur of Chatsworth House on

this looped walk. Pass through the pretty

village of Edensor, before ending back at

Bakewell, where you can rest your tired

legs at one of the town’s charming pubs.

ń 1hr from Derby

u p160

12

ALEX

SEGRE/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

Best Canal Trips

u Go punting on the

River Cam through

the elegant grounds

of the University of

Cambridge. (p82)

u Enjoy floating book-

shops, vinyl stores

and theatres on Lon-

don’s canals. (p52)

u Glide through the

Norfolk Broads –

England’s largest

protected wetlands –

on a kayak. (p84)

u Traverse aque-

ducts and stop by

canalside pubs on

a slow narrowboat

in Somerset and

Wiltshire. (p118)

GLORIOUS

WATERWAYS

England’s rivers and canals were once noisy

smoke-ridden arteries transporting goods back and

forth during the Industrial Revolution, but times have

long since changed. These historic waterways now

form some of England’s most idyllic scenery and are

free to be explored at a wonderfully slow pace. Ease

beneath weeping willows, stop for a leisurely stroll and

breathe in the fresh country air.

The 1900-year-old

Fossdyke Navigation

is England’s oldest

working canal.

The 137-mile Grand

Union Canal (pictured)

between Birmingham

and London is the long-

est in England.

Birmingham has

35 miles of waterways –

more than Venice.

LEFT:

ANDREW

FOX/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©;

BOTTOM:

AC

MANLEY/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

13

ENGLAND

BEST

EXPERIENCES

FOODIE

REVOLUTION

English food was

once the subject of derision

and stereotypes, but those

labels are firmly in the past.

From endless Michelin-

star restaurants to creative

young chefs crafting some

of Europe’s most exciting

food, English cuisine is

now a source of pride and

the country isn’t afraid to

showcase its heritage while

also celebrating the best in

global gastronomy.

 STREET-FOOD MARKETS

Pop-up street-food markets

are ubiquitous in cities across

England. Hosting passionate

independent traders, they pres-

ent a chance to try something

new every week.

 MUST-TRY

You won’t have had the

classic English cuisine

experience until you’ve

enjoyed fish and chips

in a seaside town on a

windy summer’s day.

Best Food

Experiences

u Experience

Birmingham’s

multiculturalism

through its signature

dish – the balti curry.

(pictured left; p164)

u Try pie and mash at

beautifully restored

shops in London’s

East End. (p58)

u Sample Brighton’s

exciting vegan scene,

from dirty burgers

to cookie-dough

milkshakes. (p86)

u Catchyour own fish

on the Isles of Scilly

and take an evening

‘supper boat’. (p140)

u Treat yourself to

caramels, truffles

and tasting sets in

chocolate-loving

York. (p184)

14

ENGLAND

BEST

EXPERIENCES

SPLASH OF

COLOUR

From the rolling pastoral

landscapes of Constable to Banksy’s

jaunty stencilled street graffiti, English

art has come a long way over the last

200 years and there are more ways than

ever to take it all in. Tours, exhibitions

and live workshops across the country

have made art accessible and exciting,

while creating fascinating urban

environments to explore.

RIGHT:

QUEER

FRONTIERS

©;

LEFT:

TONY

WATSON/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

SAKHANPHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

15

Left Landscape painter, Suffolk

Right Whitworth Art Gallery,

Manchester (p210)

Below Queer Frontiers exhibition,

London. Artist names in order

of appearance (left to right):

Cyrus Mahboubian, Chris Hawkes,

Louise Benton, Emily Kirby,

Ireno Frizzarin, Sophie Willison,

Alexander Glass, Tess Williams,

Graham Martin

ENGLAND BEST

EXPERIENCES

WHO IS BANKSY?

Arguably England’s most famous contemporary artist,

Banksy has maintained anonymity despite years of

making global headlines. He’s from Bristol, but beyond

that little else is known.

Û CELEBRATING LGBTIQ+ ARTISTS

Fringe! Queer Film & Arts Fest is an annual eight-day

event with films, experimental art installations and work-

shops; it’s held every mid-September in East London.

ÚHIDDEN TREASURES

Some superb galleries

are located within univer-

sities, such as the Uni-

versity of Manchester’s

Whitworth Art Gallery

and the University of

Birmingham’s Barber

Institute of Fine Arts.

Best Art Experiences

u Immerse yourself in a tour

of Banksy originals on the

streets of Bristol. (p114)

u Watch graffiti artists at

work underneath the arches

of London’s Leake Street

Tunnel. (p56)

u Dip into rolling exhibitions at

the UK’s largest independent

commercial gallery in

Newcastle’s regenerated

Ouseburn Valley. (p194)

u Explore works by Ai Weiwei,

Damien Hirst and Barbara

Hepworth at the 200-hectare

Yorkshire Sculpture Park. (p192)

16

SUMMER

ENGLAND

PLAN

BY

SEASON

JULY

Demand for accommodation peaks during

August. Find inspiration for tours and overnight

adventures at lonelyplanet.com/england.

There are hundreds of small music festivals

on throughout the summer that are often

better value than the big ones.

Average daytime max: 20°C

Days of rainfall: 8

England in

 Glastonbury Festival

June’s five-day (occasionally rain-

soaked) extravaganza in the fields

of Somerset is England’s most

famous music festival, attracting

global headlining acts.

Glastonbury

 glastonburyfestivals.co.uk; p142

 Wimbledon

For two weeks each summer, the

world’s greatest tennis players

descend on the hallowed grass

courts of southwest London.

Wimbledon, London

 wimbledon.com

iPacking Notes

Always wear

sunscreen and pack

a bottle of water for

any long dehydrating

summer walks.

17

ENGLAND

PLAN

BY

SEASON

AUGUST

Average daytime max: 22°C

Days of rainfall: 7

Average daytime max: 22°C

Days of rainfall: 8

England’s Summer

Bank Holiday always

falls on the last

Monday in August.

Schools in England usually break

for six weeks in July and August.

 Football Fever

England’s pubs are

filled every other

July as its football

team tries (usually in

vain) to win a major

tournament.

 Whitstable Rocks Oyster Festival

England’s premier oyster town hosts a

colourful celebration of all things seafood

every summer on the north Kent coast.

Whitstable

 whitstablerocksoysterfestival.com

FROM LEFT: MARIETTA PEROS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, N_FUJITA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

SAMPAJANO_ANIZZA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, CKTRAVELS.COM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BOTTOM: LOIS GOBE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

18

AUTUMN

ENGLAND

PLAN

BY

SEASON

OCTOBER

The shoulder

seasons are

good value for

travelling, so take

advantage of

lower post-August

accommodation

prices, especially

at coastal

destinations.

Average daytime max: 19°C

Days of rainfall: 8

England in

 Ludlow Marches Food & Drink Festival

Three-day gastronomy festival held in

September near the Welsh border featuring

over 180 local food and drink producers.

Ludlow

 foodfestival.co.uk

England’s climate is perfect for autumnal colours, so head to

the Cotswolds or the Lake District for the best experiences.

 Last Night of the Proms

The patriotic flag-waving

finale of the BBC’s annual

classical music concerts

takes place at London’s Royal

Albert Hall in September.

London

 bbc.co.uk/proms

iPacking Notes

Prepare for four

seasons at once, so

wear a waterproof

coat that isn’t

too thick.

19

FROM LEFT: JEFF GILBERT/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

©, DEATONPHOTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, LOREDANA

SANGIULIANO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, MITOTICO/

SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BOTTOM: STEWART SMITH PHOTOGRAPHY/

SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ENGLAND

PLAN

BY

SEASON

NOVEMBER

Average daytime max: 15°C

Days of rainfall: 10

Average daytime max: 10°C

Days of rainfall: 10

 Guy Fawkes Night

Bonfires and fireworks

light up England’s night

sky every 5 November

in celebration of Fawkes’

failed Gunpowder Plot

of 1605.

Schools in England break up

for a week for the autumn

half-term during the last full

week of October.

Demand for accommodation peaks

during the autumn half-term. Look

for tours and overnight adventures

at lonelyplanet.com/england.

 BFI London Film Festival

Annual film festival running for

12 days and screening more than

250 films, documentaries and

shorts from around 80 countries.

London

 whatson.bfi.org.uk/lf

20

WINTER

ENGLAND

PLAN

BY

SEASON

JANUARY

Public holidays in England include 25 December

(Christmas Day), 26 December (Boxing Day)

and 1 January (New Year’s Day).

Average daytime max: 8°C

Days of rainfall: 10

England in

 Hyde Park Winter Wonderland

Running between November and

January, London’s sprawling winter

festival features an ice rink, a

fairground and Bavarian market stalls.

London

 hydeparkwinterwonderland.com

Market Lights

Cities and towns across

England host Bavarian-

style Christmas markets,

so expect hot food, festive

music, fairy lights and

mulled wine.

 Stonehenge Winter Solstice

The Winter Solstice is celebrated

at Wiltshire’s ethereal neolithic

stones around 21 December,

marking the shortest day and

longest night of the year.

Stonehenge

 english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/

stonehenge

iPacking Notes

A waterproof winter

coat and boots, along

with a hat, scarf

and gloves, are all

recommended.

21

ENGLAND

PLAN

BY

SEASON

FEBRUARY

Average daytime max: 7°C

Days of rainfall: 12

Average daytime max: 8°C

Days of rainfall: 9

 Six Nations

The northern hemisphere’s

biggest international rugby

tournament begins in February

to much fervour in pubs across

England at weekends.

 sixnationsrugby.com

 Rockaway Beach Festival

Winter’s biggest alternative

music weekend with iconic live

performances and acclaimed

emerging acts, film screenings,

talks, games and more.

Bognor Regis

 rockawaybeach.co.uk

Demand for accommodation peaks during the Christmas period. View

information and inspiration in advance at lonelyplanet.com/england.

Some of London’s

greatest museums

are free and are

an excellent way

to spend a rainy

afternoon in the

capital.

FROM LEFT: ALEXEY FEDORENKO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

1000 WORDS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, KEN HARRISON/ALAMY STOCK

PHOTO ©, MARCO IACOBUCCI EPP/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BOTTOM: DANIEL_KAY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

22

SPRING

ENGLAND

PLAN

BY

SEASON

APRIL

Demand for accommodation peaks during the long Easter

weekend in April. Check options for tours and overnight

adventures in advance at lonelyplanet.com/england.

Average daytime max: 10°C

Days of rainfall: 9

England in

 Grand National

Annual horse race where

millions who wouldn’t usually

gamble enjoy placing a bet

(often on multiple horses).

Aintree, Liverpool

 thejockeyclub.co.uk/aintree

Easter is a four-

day public holiday

on the weekend

following the first

full moon after the

first day of spring.

 Oxford &

Cambridge

Boat Race

Rowing battle

between

England’s two

most famous

universities

down a 4.2-mile

stretch of the

River Thames in

West London.

London

 theboatrace.org

iPacking Notes

Layers for chilly

March, but sunglasses

and a light jacket

for May.

23

ENGLAND

PLAN

BY

SEASON

MAY

Average daytime max: 13°C

Days of rainfall: 9

Average daytime max: 17°C

Days of rainfall: 8

 Cooper’s Hill Cheese-

Rolling & Wake

Eccentric Monty Python–esque

event involving participants

chasing (and often falling) after

a round of Double Gloucester

cheese down a hill.

Gloucester

There are two bank holidays in May (which fall on

Mondays), at the beginning and the end of the month.

Some days in May

can be very warm,

so prepare to apply

sunscreen slightly

earlier in the year

than expected.

 Chelsea Flower Show

The world’s most prestig-

ious flower show, attracting

around 168,000 visitors each

year with various horticultural

awards handed out.

London

 rhs.org.uk/shows-events/rhs

-chelsea-flower-show

FROM LEFT: MICK ATKINS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, XINHUA NEWS AGENCY/

GETTY IMAGES ©, EDINBURGHCITYMOM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

BARRY BATCHELOR – PA IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES ©

BOTTOM: JOHN CORRY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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Isles of

Scilly

A T L A N T I C

O C E A N

Liverpool

Bay

Irish Sea

Bristol Channel

Dartmoor

National

Park

T

a

m

a

r

Padstow

St Ives

Falmouth

Penzance

Truro

Newquay

Tavistock

Barnstaple

Plymouth

w

v

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y

Cornwall

Explore wild beaches, charming

fishing villages and some of

England’s finest seafood. Try your

hand at surfing in Newquay if you

dare, and celebrate afterwards

with an indulgent Cornish pasty.

ń 2hrs from Bristol

Dartmoor

Set up camp beneath the stars on

Dartmoor’s rugged moorlands. In the

daylight, however, it’s all about ‘tor-

bagging’ and seeing how many weather-

beaten granite hills you can conquer.

ń 1hr 40mins from Bristol

24

TAKE YOUR PICK OF MUSTSEES

AND HIDDEN GEMS

FROM LEFT: HENRY TRICKEY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, MAREKS PERKONS/

SHUTTERSTOCK ©, LUCIAN MILASAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ENGLAND

BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

London has a seemingly

endless number of museums to

wander, sights to tick off, boozers

to pop into and neighbourhoods

to explore. But don’t be afraid to

leave the clutches of the capital –

Cornwall’s wind-whipped beaches

and Whitstable’s freshly shucked

oysters make for some of southern

England’s most seductive escapes.

SOUTHERN

ENGLAND

Trip Builder

Trip Notes

Hub towns London, Bristol

How long Allow 10 to 14 days

Getting around Train links from London

and Bristol are excellent, but a car would

be more efficient for exploring deeper into

Cornwall.

Tips Cornwall has exploded in popularity

in recent years thanks to the ‘staycation’

trend, so book well in advance if you’re

planning to visit on weekends (especially

bank holiday weekends) and during the

peak summer period.

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W A L E S

F R A N C E

Isle of Wight

E N G L A N D

North Sea

E

n

g

l

i

s

h

C

h

a

n

ne

l

Bridgwater

Bay

Lyme

Bay

Strait of

Dover

South Downs

National Park

Exmoor

National

Park

Whitstable

Rye

Windsor

Southampton

Salisbury

Brighton

Swindon

Weymouth

Eastbourne

Exmouth

Guildford

Torquay

Bournemouth

Yeovil

Portsmouth

Bath

Gloucester

Winchester

Exeter

Taunton

Hereford

Bristol

CARDIFF

LONDON

G

6

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0

50 miles

e

Bristol

Tour vibrant neighbourhoods full of gaudy

graffiti and Banksy classics in England’s street-

art capital. When night falls, sample the city’s

fabulous food scene and plenty of local cider.

ŉ 1½hrs from London

Isle of Wight

Hire a bike and roll past verdant

green hills and sea-sprayed

villages on a trail around

England’s largest island. Don’t

miss ethereal views of The

Needles chalk stacks at sunset.

ŉ/ň 3½hrs from Bristol

London

Get lost in a cultural cornucopia of England’s

biggest city, experiencing everything from the

iconic Houses of Parliament and London Eye to

the counterculture of Camden Market and Soho.

ŉ 45mins from Heathrow Airport

Whitstable

Sample freshly shucked

oysters at The Oyster

Shed on the wind-

whipped seafront, before

heading back into town

and leafing through old

novels at Harbour Books

and Books in Waiting.

ŉ 1½hrs from London

Rye

Dip in and out of rows of

cutesy boutique shops

dotted along the cob-

blestoned streets selling

seashell-infused soaps,

artisan chocolate and

oyster-shell candles.

ń 2hrs from London

Windsor

Have a royally good

time exploring the

opulent Windsor Castle

(pictured), but don’t miss

the majestic Windsor

Great Park and its

picturesque vistas down

the tree-lined Long Walk.

ŉ 50mins from London

77 7

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S C O T L A N D

Liverpool

Bay

Irish Sea

D

e

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S

o

l

w

a

y

F

i

r

t

h

W A L E S

I S L E

O F M A N

Lake District

National Park

Es

k

Barrow-in-

Furness

Keswick

Peebles

Workington

Oswestry

Blackpool

Dumfries

Liverpool

E

@

Liverpool

Take the Ferry ‘Cross the

Mersey for a view of the

famous skyline, before

heading back to Albert

Dock’s busy bars and the

grand streets pulsating with

music and humour.

ŉ 40mins from Manchester

Lake District

Soak up panoramas of craggy

hilltops, mountain tarns and

shimmering lakes in the UK’s

most popular national park

and see why Wordsworth was

so inspired to put pen to paper.

ń 1½hrs from Manchester

Lancaster

Dance at the buzzing Music Festival

but stay for this elegant city’s

pretty sandstone buildings, soaring

spires and tranquil riverside walks.

ŉ 1hr from Manchester

26

TAKE YOUR PICK OF MUSTSEES

AND HIDDEN GEMS

FROM LEFT: MICHAEL CONRAD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, MARCEL BREKELMANS/

SHUTTERSTOCK ©, JULIETPHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ENGLAND

BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

Romantic abbey ruins, rolling

green hills and steam trains gliding

by heathery moors paint an evocative

picture of a vast region, while

northern England’s old industrial

cities have transformed into youthful

and dynamic hives of activity. So pick

your destination in a big-hearted land

that can’t wait to welcome you.

NORTHERN

ENGLAND

Trip Builder

Trip Notes

Hub towns Manchester, Liverpool, Leeds,

Newcastle

How long Allow 10 to 14 days

Getting around The transport links

from Liverpool all the way to Leeds are

excellent, though a car may be better for

rural regions like the Lake District and

Yorkshire Moors.

Tips The weather, particularly in the wilder

parts of Yorkshire, can turn at the drop

of a hat. Even in summer, think about

bringing good waterproofs and sturdy

walking boots.

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The

Wash

North Sea

N

o

r

th

u

m

b

e

r

la

n

d

C

o

a

s

t

Hamsterley

Forest

North York Moors

National Park

Peak District

National Park

Yorkshire Dales

National Park

Northumberland

National

Park

H

u

m

b

er

M

e

rsey

Derwent

Reservoir

T

e

v

i

o

t

Esk

Derw

en

t

Wear

T

e

e

s

Hul

l

T

y

n

e

E

d

e

n

O

u

s

e

Boroughbridge

Penrith

Kendal

Malton

Harrogate

Lancaster

Skipton

Hexham

Middlesbrough

Blackburn

York

Newcastle-

upon-Tyne

Darlington

Tynemouth

King's Lynn

Hull

Sunderland

Leeds

Bradford

Scarborough

Scunthorpe

Halifax

Manchester

Wigan

Warrington

Huddersfield

Durham

Preston

Leicester

Carlisle

ň

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100 km

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50 miles

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Newcastle-upon-Tyne

Cross an iconic bridge into a buzzing city boasting

contemporary art at the Baltic Centre, indulgent

food stops at the 19th-century Grainger Market

(pictured) and some of England’s best nightlife.

ŉ 1½hrs from Leeds

Leeds

Get lost in the Corn Exchange’s

quirky boutiques, explore the

12th-century ruins of Kirkstall

Abbey and sample a smorgasbord

of craft beers at Northern Monk

in Yorkshire’s largest city.

ŉ 2½hrs from London

Yorkshire Dales

Take a leisurely drive through

soft green valleys criss-crossed

by dry-stone walls and handsome

villages. Stop by the grandiose

Bolton Abbey (pictured) before

finishing at a cosy fireside pub.

ń 1hr from Leeds

Hull

Stroll through the evocative

Victorian lanes of the Old Town

and drop into free museums

like the Streetlife Museum of

Transport and the Hull & East

Riding Museum of Archaeology.

ŉ 1hr from Leeds

Manchester

Sample craft beer in the Northern

Quarter, feel the passion at Old

Trafford or party in the colourful

Gay Village – the choice is endless

in the north’s cultural capital.

ŉ 2hrs from London

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Liverpool

Bay

Irish Sea

Bristol

Channel

W A L E S

M

e

r

s

e

y

D

e

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Wrexham

Blackpool

Chester

Liverpool

Hereford

Stretch your legs walking the Wye

Valley, then unwind with plenty of

local cider. Don’t miss the Mappa

Mundi (pictured) in the Hereford

Cathedral, a fascinating medieval

map of the (then known) world.

ŉ 1½hrs from Birmingham

Shropshire Hills

Start a road trip in Darwin’s

historic hometown of Shrewsbury

(pictured), before spending an

ethereal night stargazing in Carding

Mill Valley. End your journey in the

vibrant foodie hotspot of Ludlow.

ń 1hr from Birmingham

28

TAKE YOUR PICK OF MUSTSEES

AND HIDDEN GEMS

FROM LEFT: BBA PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, THE PRINT

COLLECTOR/GETTY IMAGES ©, PATCHAMOL JENSATIENWONG/

SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ENGLAND

BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

Birmingham has shed its

tired stereotypes and is now a

dynamic gastronomic hub pierced

by snaking canals and bohemian

neighbourhoods. Explore beyond

the country’s second-largest city

to discover a proud landscape of

industrial innovation, gentle hills and

charming towns in the beating heart

of England.

CENTRAL

ENGLAND

Trip Builder

Trip Notes

Hub towns Birmingham, Nottingham

How long Allow 10 to 14 days

Getting around Birmingham has myriad

public transport options fanning out in all

directions, though a car would be a wise

idea if heading beyond the southern parts

of the Peak District.

Tips Birmingham’s central location and

excellent train links make it an ideal

place to base yourself for day trips; its

hotels aren’t too expensive either, even in

peak season.

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North Sea

Peak District

National Park

Sherwood

Forest

S

e

v

e

r

n

Carsington

Reservoir

Rutland

Water

A

v

o

n

Tre

nt

W

i

t

h

a

m

R

oden

D

er

we

nt

Se

ve

rn

Wy

e

Crewe

Leominster

Ludlow

Stratford- upon-Avon

Burton- upon- Trent

Newark-

on-Trent

Boston

Loughborough

Cheltenham

Derby

Walsall

Milton Keynes

Peterborough

Luton

Watford

Leeds

Stoke- on-Trent

Bradford

High

Wycombe

Coventry

Rugby

Dudley

Birmingham

Wolverhampton

Telford

Swindon

Nottingham

Sheffield

Huddersfield

Chesterfield

Aylesbury

Gloucester

Oxford

Leicester

Shrewsbury

Hereford

Lincoln

Northampton

Worcester

ņ

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Ĥ E

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100 km

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50 miles

e

The Cotswolds

Meander by chocolate-box villages,

rolling green hills and rustic stone

houses in this evocative patchwork of

quintessentially English landscapes.

ń 1½hrs from Birmingham

Stratford-upon-Avon

Bring out your inner Bard by

exploring Shakespeare’s birthplace,

taking in a performance at the

Royal Shakespeare Company and

visiting his tranquil final resting

place at Holy Trinity Church.

ŉ 45mins from Birmingham

Oxford

Lose yourself in the patchwork of cobbled

streets, honey-coloured colleges and historic

pubs that form the ‘City of Dreaming Spires’.

Drop by the wonderful Ashmolean Museum,

Britain’s oldest public museum (pictured).

ŉ 1¼hrs from Birmingham

Birmingham

Stroll by canalside cafes on

Gas Street Basin followed

by Great Western Arcade’s

stylish boutiques in England’s

rejuvenated second city.

Finish with sublime fine dining

at the Michelin-star Opheem.

ŉ 1½hrs from London

Nottingham

Delve into a well of history at Nottingham Castle

and the legendary Sherwood Forest before

sinking a pint at 1189-established Ye Olde Trip

to Jerusalem, England’s oldest surviving inn.

ŉ 1hr from Birmingham

Peak District

Hike and bike your

way through ancient

valleys, charming

villages, soaring

hills and opulent

palaces in England’s

first national park.

ŉ 50mins from

Nottingham

#_

I R E L A N D

N O R T H E R N

I R L E A N D

A T L A N T I C

O C E A N

Irish

Sea

BELFAST

DUBLIN

#_

Cockermouth

Stroll the medieval streets of

Wordsworth’s quaint hometown

and indulge in its charming

independent coffee shops, local

boutiques and warm pubs.

ń 2¼hrs from Manchester

Bath

Relax amid warm, mineral-rich waters at

Britain’s only natural thermal spa. Once

refreshed, explore magnificent Georgian

architecture, the iconic Roman Baths and

the Grand Pump Room (pictured) before

finishing at one of many stylish gastropubs.

ŉ 15mins from Bristol

30

TAKE YOUR PICK OF MUSTSEES

AND HIDDEN GEMS

FROM LEFT: TRAVELLIGHT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, CHRISTIAN MUELLER/

SHUTTERSTOCK ©, ALAN DUNNETT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, SPIROVIEW INC/

SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ENGLAND

BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

From the Neolithic monoliths

of Stonehenge to London’s grandiose

Victorian architecture, English past

is a source of enduring fascination.

Whether in immaculately preserved

Roman remains or commanding

medieval castles, it’s the variety of

history that sets England apart.

Travel through time and see how this

land has evolved through the ages.

HISTORIC

ENGLAND

Trip Builder

Trip Notes

Hub towns London, Birmingham,

Manchester

How long Allow 10 to 21 days

Getting around Many of England’s well-

known historic sights are accessible by

public transport, but if you need to drive

they’ll often be well signposted.

Tips The English Heritage Overseas

Visitors Pass provides unlimited entry to

more than 100 castles, battlefields and

Roman ruins, across either nine or 16

consecutive days.

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Isle of

Man

Isle of

Wight

F R A N C E

North Sea

English

Channel

S C O T L A N D

W A L E S

North York Moors

National Park

Northumberland

National Park

Norfolk

Broads

Peak District

National Park

Yorkshire Dales

National Park

Exmoor

National

Park

Lindisfarne

(Holy Island)

A

i

r

e

Cockermouth

York

Bath

Coventry

Cambridge

Norwich

Aylesbury

Durham

Gloucester

Oxford

Chelmsford

Winchester

Leicester

Shrewsbury

Carlisle

Taunton

Hereford

Lincoln

Ipswich

Maidstone

Bristol

Northampton

Worcester

Dover

CARDIFF

LONDON

Manchester

Liverpool

Sheffield

Hull

1 I

S

F

t

I

6

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200 km

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100 miles

e

York

Meander the narrow cobblestoned

lanes in a city claiming to have a

pub for every day of the year and

traverse its medieval walls.

ŉ 20mins from Leeds

Lindisfarne

Head over frigid waters to the atmospheric Holy Island

packed full with rugged trails, medieval ruins (including

Lindisfarne Castle, pictured), cosy pubs and Viking tales.

ń 1¼hrs from Newcastle-upon-Tyne

Hadrian’s Wall

Do as the Romans did and walk 84 miles

in ancient footsteps from coast to coast

past rolling green landscapes, ancient

hillforts and Arctic-blue lakes.

ń 1hr from Newcastle-upon-Tyne

Cambridge

Go punting on the River Cam to glide

slowly beneath weeping willows

and alongside some of the world’s

most elegant university buildings in

England’s citadel of academia.

ŉ 1hr from London

Stonehenge

See the world’s most famous

standing stones up close. Time

it right for the summer-solstice

celebrations, and the slanting

golden light of the sun will

make your visit unforgettable.

ń 50mins from Bath

Coventry

Marvel at the skeletal walls and

commanding spire of the Coventry

Cathedral, ruined by WWII bombs,

then admire the stunning stained-

glass windows in the modernist

new cathedral next door.

ŉ 20mins from Birmingham

#

I R E L A N D

N O R T H E R N

I R L E A N D

A T L A N T I C

O C E A N

Bay of Biscay

Isles of

Scilly

Irish Sea

Penzance

6 Ē

Southport

Explore a quirky underrated seaside town

and enjoy a model railway village and the one

and only British Lawnmower Museum.

ŉ 50mins from Liverpool

Blackpool

Hire a bike and roll past lapping waves and

jaunty nightclubs on England’s most famous

promenade, before taking in epic views from

the blustery summit of Blackpool Tower.

ŉ 1¼hrs from Manchester

Isles of Scilly

Hop on a ferry to this remote

archipelago and take it easy

for a while. Go wild food

foraging from hedgerows to

moorlands, before sampling

freshly caught seafood in

the evening.

ň 3hrs from Penzance

32

TAKE YOUR PICK OF MUSTSEES

AND HIDDEN GEMS

FROM LEFT: JAMES LEPAGE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, WILF DOYLE/ALAMY

STOCK PHOTO ©, CKTRAVELS.COM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ENGLAND

BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

The seaside has an almost

nostalgic allure for the English.

Cheap flights abroad mean a higher

chance of sun, but England’s coast is

special in so many other ways. From

Cornwall’s rocky coves to the bobbing

boats and fresh fish and chips of

Whitby harbour, the romantic scenes

and memories of shores lost in time

endure.

COASTAL

ENGLAND

Trip Builder

Trip Notes

Hub towns Brighton, Whitby

How long Allow 10 to 21 days

Getting around Coastal line trains are

some of England’s most beautiful and

always worth using where available;

elsewhere there are buses (eg serving

Lindisfarne) and ferries (Isles of Scilly).

Tips Try and stay at a B&B rather than a

generic hotel for the consummate English

seaside experience.

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Isle of

Man

Isle of

Wight

F R A N C E

North Sea

English

Channel

S C O T L A N D

W A L E S

North York Moors

National Park

Norfolk

Broads

Peak District

National Park

Yorkshire Dales

National Park

Exmoor

National

Park

Dartmoor

National Park

South Downs

National

Park

Lake District

National Park

York

Bath

Coventry

Cambridge

Norwich

Aylesbury

Durham

Gloucester

Oxford

Chelmsford

Leicester

Shrewsbury

Carlisle

Taunton

Hereford

Lincoln

Ipswich

Maidstone

Bristol

Northampton

Worcester

Dover

CARDIFF

LONDON

Margate

Brighton

Blackpool

Southport

Whitby

Tynemouth

Hull

Southampton

Ħ

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e

Tynemouth

See what happens when the English seaside

is given a dash of 21st-century artisan cool.

Don’t miss the sublime seafood served up

at Riley’s Fish Shack (pictured).

ŉ 30mins from Newcastle

Whitby

Walk up the 199 steps to the

macabre ruins of Whitby

Abbey before sipping beer

at nearby Whitby Brewery.

Back in town, treat yourself to

England’s finest fish and chips.

ń 1¼hrs from York

Margate

Dive into pure seaside kitsch,

from the busy golden beach and

blinking lights of Dreamland to

the rustic Old Town and laid-

back Harbour Arm.

ŉ 1¾hrs from London

Brighton

Soak up the decadent atmosphere

of England’s premier seaside town

on a hedonistic weekend jumping

between beach bars, Victorian

amusement parks, colourful

vintage stores and crowded pubs.

ŉ 1hr from London

Jurassic Coast

Put your walking boots on and tackle

England’s only natural World Heritage

Site. The Golden Cap circular affords

sweeping coastal vistas, while the Axe

Valley is rich in wildlife.

ń 1½hrs from Bristol

4

Many Museums

Are Free

England is home to many

esteemed museums and

you won’t need to pay a

penny to enter some of

them. Visit on a rainy day

and spend the money saved

at a pub later on.

34

Things to Know About

ENGLAND LOCAL

TIPS

1

Take a Jacket,

Even in Summer

Preparing for all types of

weather is an essential part

of the English experience.

England’s maritime location

in the North Atlantic means

that even in summer biting

winds and untimely rain

showers can unexpectedly

scupper a balmy afternoon.

That doesn’t mean you’ll

need an umbrella everywhere,

but pack a jacket in your

suitcase and always check

the weather forecast.

u Read more about the weather in

the Calendar chapter on p16.

INSIDER TIPS TO HIT THE GROUND RUNNING

ENGLAND

7

2

Never Jump

a Queue

Sometimes polite to a fault,

the English are orderly

queuers – those jumping a

line can expect stern looks

and grumbling at the very

least.

u Read more about etiquette in

the Practicalities chapter on p236.

3

Go Beyond

London

London is big, bold and full of

iconic English landmarks –

but it isn’t everything.

If you have the time to

explore beyond the capital,

you’ll discover a variety of

landscapes, people and

cultures. London may be your

first port of call in England,

but it shouldn’t be the last.

u Read more about the things to

see and do outside London in the

Trip Builder chapter on p24.

6

Local Lingo

English might be the world’s lingua franca, but

the language that English people actually speak can be

a little confounding at first. Here are some words and

phrases to help you get by:

quid – slang for the currency, the British pound

bloke – informal term for a man; equivalent of ‘guy’ in

America

piece of cake – describes a task that is easy to do

rubbish – not very good

mate – a friend

daft – describes something or someone that’s a little

silly or foolish

knackered – tired

cuppa – shortened version of a ‘cup of tea’; heard more

at home than in cafes

loo – toilet

cheers – while used in England as a toast (like in the

rest of the English-speaking world), it also means

‘thanks’

dodgy – used to describe something or someone a little

suspicious or unreliable

donkey’s years – a long time (‘I haven’t seen him for

donkey’s years!’)

1 D-SIGN STUDIO 10/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

2 ROB ZS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

4 ALEXANDER_P/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

5 ONELINESTOCK.COM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

7 ERWAN WANTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

35

ENGLAND LOCAL

TIPS

5

Don’t Dismiss

English Food

Stereotypes about the

English are often amusing

and sometimes painfully

true, though the one about

the poor standard of English

food can be consigned

to history’s dustbin. the

country is now dotted with

superb restaurants offering

a strong emphasis on fresh,

locally grown produce.

There’s cuisine from all over

the world too, amid an ever-

growing list of Michelin-star

restaurants.

u Read more about England’s food

in Foodie Revolution on p13.

7

Train Prices Can Get Steep

England’s train system was

privatised many years ago and this,

among other factors, has led to some

of Europe’s highest train prices. Try

to book ahead and look out for cheap

advance fares. While not as quick

as train travel (and certainly not as

romantic), coaches such as National

Express, Megabus and FlixBus offer

far cheaper prices when travelling

across the country and are highly

recommended for those on a budget.

u Read more about getting around England on p240

t

L I S T E N

Read, Listen,

Watch & Follow

DAVID

JENSEN/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

Desert Island Discs

(BBC Radio 4; 1942–present) BBC radio

guests discuss the music they’d want if

stranded on an island.

Definitely Maybe

(Oasis; 1994)

Generation-defining

Britpop anthems

from Manchester’s

iconic 1990s band.

Sgt. Pepper’s

Lonely Hearts

Club Band (The

Beatle;, 1967)

Groundbreaking mix

of rock, pop, music

hall, vaudeville, jazz,

blues and Indian

styles.

Gang Signs and

Prayer (Stormzy,

pictured right; 2017)

Sound of modern

London and the

first grime album to

reach number one

in the UK charts.

Back to Black (Amy

Winehouse; 2006)

Gorgeous jazz

vocals combined

with frank lyrics

recounting themes

of love and loss.

R

READ

Notes from a Small

Island (Bill Bryson,

1995) Painfully

funny observations

on Britain as seen

by an American

outsider.

White Teeth (Zadie

Smith, 2000)

Vivid portrait

of multicultural

London at the turn

of the century.

Fever Pitch (Nick

Hornby, 1992)

Memoir about

growing up following

football, the nation’s

sporting obsession.

Watching the

English (Kate Fox,

2014) Revealing

anthropological look

at the quirks, habits

and foibles of the

English.

36

ENGLAND GET

INSPIRED

T

FOLLOW

V

WATCH

(nme.com) Music,

film, TV, gaming and

pop culture news and

reviews.

NME

Satirical commentary

on current affairs.

@thedailymash

(bbc.co.uk) National

broadcaster offering a

wealth of services.

BBC

The official tourist

board for England.

@visitengland

(squaremeal.co.uk)

Extensive restaurants

guide and booking

platform.

SquareMeal

Doctor Who (1963–present) Iconic BBC

sci-fi series featuring a time-travelling

doctor.

This Is England (2006) Drama about

Northern England’s working-class youth in

the turbulent 1980s.

Shaun of the Dead (2004) Cult-classic

zombie spoof where two slackers in London

try to save their loved ones.

Small Axe (pictured top right; 2020)

Five-film anthology exploring the lives of

London’s West Indian community between

the 1960s and 1980s.

Heartstopper (pictured bottom right;

2022) Uplifting coming-of-age drama that

positively represents a full spectrum of

LGBTIQ+ identities.

TOP:

BBC/ALBUM/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

BOTTOM:

SEE-SAW

FILMS/ALBUM/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

37

ENGLAND GET

INSPIRED

LONDON &

AROUND

DIVERSE | CREATIVE | GARGANTUAN

u Climb the Cutty

Sark (p44)

u Treading the

Boards (p46)

u Lido Life (p48)

u Gruesome

London (p50)

u Canal Cruising (p52)

u Leave Your Mark (p56)

u Devour Pie &

Mash (p58)

u Drag Crawl (p62)

u London’s Lost

Tunnels (p64)

u A Night at the

Museum (p66)

u Listings (p68)

i

G

I

ĩ

P I M L I C O

N I N E

E L M S

W A L H A M

G R E E N

K N I G H T S B R I D G E

E A R L ' S

C O U R T

W A N D S W O R T H

B A T T E R S E A

K E N T I S H

T O W N

K I N G ' S

C R O S S

M A Y F A I R

C H E L S E A

P I M L I C O

T U F N E L L

P A R K

P A D D I N G T O N

C O V E N T

G A R D E N

B E L G R A V I A

F U L H A M

W H I T E H A L L

Lambeth

Bridge

Vauxhall

Bridge

Westminster

Bridge

Battersea

Bridge

Chelsea

Bridge

R

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Green

Park

Battersea

Park

Wormwood

Scrubs Park

P

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South

Kensington

Charing

Cross

F

F

a

i

Swim in a vintage outdoor pool

at Brockwell Lido (p49)

Ġ 3mins from Herne Hill

Overground station

This sprawling ultra-diverse city, formed of

dozens of villages, satisfies all cultural persuasions.

From its unwavering open-mindedness and obscure

food scene to its ever-evolving collection of art

and treasure, LONDON is a perpetual and glorious

reminder of what is humanly possible.

LONDON &

AROUND

Trip Builder

Explore the city’s creepy

disused Underground

tunnels (p64)

Ġ 1min from Charing

Cross Tube station

Sleep overnight in the Natural

History Museum (p66)

Ġ 4mins from South

Kensington Tube station

Enjoy drag cabaret in

the heart of Soho at the

Admiral Duncan (p62)

Ġ 6mins from Piccadilly

Circus Tube station

LONDON

&

AROUND BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

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H A C K N E Y

M I L E

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H O X T O N

P E C K H A M

D O C K L A N D S

T H E

S O U T H

B A N K

S T R A T F O R D

I S L E O F

D O G S

G R E E N W I C H

D E P T F O R D

B R I X T O N

S T E P N E Y

I S L I N G T O N

B O R O U G H

C I T Y O F

L O N D O N

D A L S T O N

Waterloo

Bridge

Blackfriars

Bridge

London

Bridge

Southwark

Bridge

S O U T H W A R K

Tower

Bridge

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FROM LEFT: EMMA BERNARD/LONELY PLANET ©,

NIGEL GRAVER /SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

INGUS KRUKLITIS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

PREVIOUS SPREAD: DAVID STEELE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Climb the mast of

Cutty Sark, a 150-year-

old historic ship (p44)

Ġ 2mins from

Greenwich DLR station

Go on a street-art tour

and create your own

piece in the Leake

Street Tunnel (p57)

Ġ 5mins from

Waterloo station

DDDDD OOOOOOO CCCCC KKK

Experience London’s macabre past at a

Victorian operating theatre (p51)

Ġ 2mins from London Bridge Tube station

Eat pie and mash

and liquor, an ol’

East End delicacy, at

F Cooke (p60)

Ġ 7mins from Hoxton

Overground station

Delve into bohemian life on

the water at the Palm Tree

canal-side pub (p55)

Ġ 10mins from Mile End

Tube station

IR

STONE/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

42

Practicalities

HOW MUCH

FOR A

GETTING AROUND

Last-minute

theatre show

from £30

Fish and chips

£12

Pint of beer

£8–12

WHEN TO GO

LONDON

&

AROUND FIND

YOUR

FEET

Black Taxis These are readily

available in the city centre,

though costly. Uber and Bolt

ridesharing apps also operate.

DEC–FEB

Christmas is magical, but there

are cold and wet days.

JUN–AUG

The city comes alive in

summer: long days, buzzing

pub gardens and park life.

MAR–MAY

Flowers are in bloom and the

days get longer.

SEP–NOV

Autumn is cooler, but deals

can be found.

ARRIVING

Air Most visitors arrive in London by air. There

are six major airports: Heathrow (pictured),

Gatwick, Stansted, Luton, City and London

Southend. Heathrow is the biggest airport and

most connected (by the Underground, Elizabeth

Line and Heathrow Express).

Train The Eurostar train travels between London,

France and points beyond.

The Tube and buses The London

Underground runs beneath

the city and connects most

neighbourhoods. It has more

than 270 stations and is an iconic

experience in itself. London’s

world-famous red buses cover

most of the city.

Cycling and walking Santander

Cycles are an option for those

with pedal power, although

there are no docking stations in

London’s furthest boroughs –

check the parking situation before

you ride. London is a vast but

hugely walkable city, with priority

given to pedestrians – it takes the

best part of a day to walk from

one side to the other.

TOP:

REGRETO/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

BOTTOM:

KWANBENZ/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

43

LONDON

&

AROUND FIND

YOUR

FEET

EATING & DRINKING

Once you’ve had your fill of fish and chips, pie and mash and after-

noon tea, you can eat around the world in London. This multicultural

city offers specialist dishes from almost every corner of the globe.

A must-try is curry – the city’s most popular dish. Head to the

Bangladeshi restaurants of Brick Lane or seek out those away from

the cluster-restaurant scene, in unsuspecting neighbourhoods like

Leytonstone, little known for its culinary prowess.

Best Thai curries Singburi (p68)

Must-try lemon meringue pie Gloria (p68)

MONEY

ATMs (cashpoints) are all over the city. Major credit

cards and contactless transactions are accepted

everywhere. Change money at post offices; they

don’t charge a commission. You’ll need to carry

money at markets, although some vendors take

contactless payments.

PARK LIFE

London city life is hectic, but

luckily there’s always somewhere

nature-rich nearby to unwind –

the city has a staggering 3000

public parks. Many have mani-

cured lawns, gardens and special

attractions of their own.

CONNECT & FIND YOUR WAY

Wi-fi Almost everywhere has wi-fi,

including guesthouses, restau-

rants, cafes, shopping centres

and train stations. Tubes are not

connected to the net – work out

where you are going at the station.

WHERE TO STAY

London is expensive in some areas, but good deals can be found.

Neighbourhood Pro/Con

The West End

Great location, close to all big attractions,

easy to get to all areas of the city. Busy

and expensive.

The City

Good transport links and hotels.

Sanitised and quiet at weekends as fewer

residents live in the financial district.

East London

Multicultural London and the city’s

hipster set, street art, bohemian pubs

and restaurants.

North London

A chance to meet real Londoners in

superb traditional pubs and tremendous

markets.

South London

Vibrant, with residential and bohemian

pockets. Transport links aren’t as

established.

West London

Good shopping, high-end restaurants

and hotels. Pricey.

VICKY

JIRAYU/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

DAVID

MUSCROFT/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

44

LONDON

&

AROUND EXPERIENCES

How to

Getting here Walk

through the 370m

Greenwich Victorian

foot tunnel under the

Thames, and the Cutty

Sark emerges like it was

craned in for a movie,

sitting suspended in a

landlocked dock.

When to go The ship’s

exterior can be seen

at any time, or you can

climb aboard between

10am and 5pm daily.

Top tip Book your rig

climb in advance with

Wire & Sky and wear

comfortable shoes and

clothes.

Climb the

CUTTY SARK

ADVENTURE | HISTORY | MUSEUM

01

Visitors to Greenwich can now climb the vertiginous rigging

of one of the fastest clipper ships of its day, for the first time

in its 150-year history. Experience how sailors risked their lives in

perilous seas on masts some 50m high.

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Riv

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T

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a

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Greenwich

Park

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CuttySarkDLR

Cutty Sark

National

Maritime

Museum

0

0.2 km

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45

LONDON

&

AROUND EXPERIENCES

Left Cutty Sark rigging

Below Ships’figureheads

Ascend the rigging Make like the sailors did 150 years

ago with a hair-raising climb up the ratlines (rope ladders)

to the ‘tops platform’ of the grand ship, roughly 23m up,

about one-and-a-half times as high as the Hollywood Sign.

Then edge your way sidewards across the lower topsail yard

while standing on a single rope and look down. Not enough

adrenaline yet? Imagine the ship isn’t docked, but violently

swaying in rough seas and you have little but your cold and

wet white-knuckle grip to keep you from crashing into the

darkness below.

Lost at sea Apprentices as young as 14 years old were tasked

with shimmying up these terrifying rope ladders with bare

feet and no safety harness or helmet (unlike today). There’s a

reason the 682 men who served on the Cutty Sark did so only

once; nine of them died in service and six were never seen

again after going overboard.

Soaring views After soaking in the unobstructed views of

central London, Canary Wharf and the Royal Naval College,

clamber back to the solid platform and finish the climb with

a zip line down to street level. All climbers get full access to

the ship for the rest of the day: walk between decks and learn

about what the sailors ate (salt pork and pea soup, or potato

pie) – chased with lots of lime water to prevent scurvy – and

the weapons they used to defend themselves against pirates.

ť Don’t Miss

The figureheads At the

far end of the Cutty Sark’s

hull is a collection of more

than 50 wooden figure-

heads, which were fixed

to the bow to bring a ship

luck. There are carvings of

everyone from Cleopatra

and Boudica to Abraham

Lincoln and Florence

Nightingale. The largest is

1.5m tall.

National Maritime

Museum For more on

Britain’s rich seafaring

history, visit the free-to-

enter National Maritime

Museum next door, stuffed

with artefacts, models and

maps. It holds exhibitions

ranging from Europe’s

complex maritime history

to the human resilience

of refugees who have

crossed great bodies of

water to find safety.

KAMIRA/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

46

Left Globe Theatre

Centre The Old Vic

Right National Theatre

(architect Denys Lasdun)

LONDON

&

AROUND ESSAY

Treading

the Boards

FRONTIER

PERFORMANCE ART

With centuries-old

playhouses, decade-long

musicals and a fringe

scene that will challenge

your deepest convictions,

London’s theatre scene is

boundary-breaking.

The capital’s love of performance art dates back to 1576,

when the first theatre was built in Finsbury Fields. Some

17 open-air theatres followed in the next decade and

a half. Leading theatre company Lord Chamberlain’s

Men employed William Shakespeare as its principal

playwright; he also performed on stage at the Globe

Theatre. This fabled playhouse has been reconstructed

in its original spot on the Thames, and continuously holds

performances of Shakespeare’s plays.

Getting Political

Theatre, through drama and humour, has long been

a vessel for social commentary. Throughout history,

theatres have been places to understand the issues of the

day. In 1642, during the English Civil War, they were closed

for this very reason, eventually for 18 years. The Long

Parliament ruled that plays were filled with ‘lascivious

mirth and levity’ and were inappropriate during times

of war.

Theatre bounced back in the 18th century, when

playhouses sprung up all over the capital and the rest

of the country, but faced difficulties again in 1737. Prime

Minister Robert Walpole felt threatened by the influence of

theatre, and believed political satire on stage undermined

him. To get around the wording of his Licensing Act,

theatres mixed drama with burlesque and musical

interludes – and the musical was born. Once again,

theatre recovered. In the early 1900s on-stage drama was

used as a powerful tool for social change.

Theatre is still as political, evocative, risqué, humorous

and thought-provoking as it has ever been in London, if

WILLIAM

BARTON/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

Theatre is still as

political, evocative,

risqué, humorous and

thought-provoking

as it has ever been in

London, if you know

where to look.

RON

ELLIS/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

47

LONDON

&

AROUND ESSAY

you know where to look. For sheer grandeur, start with one of

the most historic playhouses, such as the Georgian Theatre

Royal Drury Lane, which has existed since 1663. The current

building has survived tragedy, fire, bankruptcy and even

murder, and is said to be one of the most haunted theatres in

the world. Around 2000 guests can be seated in its evocative

auditorium, with plush red chairs stacked in four tiers,

including the highest level –

‘the gods’. The gold-painted

regal boxes are favoured

by the upper echelons of

society.

Off West End

For convention-shattering

performances, visit the

smaller theatres off the

West End, such as the Old

Vic near Waterloo or the

community-oriented Theatre Royal, in Stratford, where you

can watch shows for a fraction of the ticket price before they

make it to the West End.

Immersive theatre is also gaining popularity in London.

Punchdrunk productions take over giant warehouse spaces

and turn them into walk-through interactive performances.

Join the audience and follow actors through sensory

experiences of sights, sounds, lighting and smells, which

enhance the action and bring scenes to life, be they in ancient

Rome or a forgotten hinterland.

6 Behind the Scenes

Learn how prop builders,

costume teams and special-

effects crews create the

magic on stage during a

backstage tour.

National Theatre Discover

the secrets of one of the most

distinctive buildings on the

River Thames.

Globe Take a tour and find

out what went on in the 1500s

during Shakespeare’s day at

this fabled theatre.

Royal Opera House Look

back over hundreds of years

of history and learn how

women defied the gender

conventions of their day to

make this theatre what it is.

Drury Lane Search for ghosts

by ascending various floors of

the Rotunda.

UCG/GETTY

IMAGES

©

BLUE

SKY

IN

MY

POCKET/GETTY

IMAGES

©

48

LONDON

&

AROUND EXPERIENCES

How to

Getting here Most lidos

are easily reachable from

a Tube station. Some also

have parking.

When to go A few floodlit

pools are open after

hours, but most lidos

are open during daylight

hours. Book in advance.

Top tip Prepare for a

bracing dip at lidos that

are open during winter by

bringing a wetsuit; short-

term rentals are available

in the city.

Lido

LIFE

SWIMMING | OUTDOORS | HISTORY

02

Take an alfresco swim at one of London’s urban beaches – there are more

than a dozen historic lidos all over the city. Ladies bathed in their hip-hugging

swimwear and floral bathing caps almost a century ago, and more recent times

of restricted travel reignited the city’s love for outdoor urban swimming.

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Kew

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Richmond

Park

Hampstead

Heath

Battersea

Park

Ashford

Hounslow

Harrow

Hillington

Southgate

Hornsey

Wembley

Wimbledon

Ealing

Denham

Stanmore

Docklands

Newham

Lewisham

Woodford

Regent's

Park

Kew

Westminster

Richmond

Edmonton

Lido

Brockwell Lido

Tooting Bec Lido

Hillingdon Lido

Parliament Hill

Lido

London Fields

Lido

Streatham Hill

Uxbridge

Gospel Oak

London

Fields

SilverSt

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LONDON

&

AROUND EXPERIENCES

Left Parliament Hill Lido

Below London Fields Lido

Legacy pools In the 1930s, before the age of cheap air travel,

outdoor swimming pools, or lidos, were all the rage in London.

These watering holes, named after the Italian word for ‘beach’,

were social places set among greenery, and offered a chance

to be exposed to the elements – rain or shine – if you didn’t

live next to the coast. Edmonton Lido, in the north of the cap-

ital, was the first ‘lido’ to open in the country. As more people

gained the means to travel to sunnier climes, the popularity of

the pools waned and many of London’s lidos were concreted

over. But 17 of them, including some historic lidos, remain in

the city and are back in vogue.

Stylish swims Each London lido has its own charm. London

Fields Lido in Hackney is the place to mingle with hipsters

all year round in a warm 25°C pool. It’s floodlit, for those dark

winter mornings and evenings. Get there early in the morning

for dreamy sunrises. Tooting Bec Lido in Streatham is the

closest you’ll come to swimming in the sea in the city – it’s

the largest lido in Europe, some 91m long and 30m wide,

and holds a million gallons of water. It’s heated year-round

and flanked by colourful beach huts for an extra bit of British

charm. A trip to the Hillingdon Lido in Uxbridge is like a visit

to the past, with its art deco details. For a bracing winter dip,

head to Parliament Hill Lido in Hampstead. Those who brave

these icy waters sans wetsuit do so quickly, but a 60m-long

bone-chilling lap is thought to have many health benefits.

H Lido Lates

A great local secret is the

Lido Cafe at Brockwell

Lido, in South London,

which serves awesome

artisan pizzas and craft

beers by the pool. It also

hosts over-18s pop-up

events after hours, with

moonlight swimming and

lounging around on big

floats, plus food trucks,

cocktails and a DJ.

Lido activities Look out

for candlelit slow yoga,

water polo, outdoor

cinemas (with movies

such as Jaws and Grease)

and music concerts,

which periodically occur

throughout the summer

months at London’s lidos.

JOE

DUNCKLEY/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

50

LONDON

&

AROUND EXPERIENCES

Gruesome

LONDON

WEIRD | CREEPY | GHASTLY

The city has a sordid past, and its macabre attractions will fascinate and

intrigue all ages. Those with a stomach for grim and ghastly history can visit a

pauper’s graveyard, walk the streets where Jack the Ripper slew his victims, and

step inside a 200-year-old operating theatre.

03

q Three Cursed Places

Viaduct Tavern Built over

old prison cells; objects

have reportedly moved

around on their own.

Public executions were held

nearby.

St Bartholomew’s Church

(pictured) A hooded figure

supposedly appears near

the founder’s tomb.

Bank of England Said to

be haunted by the ghost of

mad Sarah, whose brother

was executed for forgery.

n By Simon

Law, ghost-

walk guide

extraordinaire,

London Walks

@londonwalksoffi  cial

Trip Notes

Getting here All places listed are within walking distance of a Tube station.

When to go These gruesome attractions are open year-round, but you

may need to prebook at some.

Need to know Not all spooky experiences are suitable for children.

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One of the oldest surviving operating

theatres (dating to 1822), the Old Operating

Theatre is an amphitheatre-like space where

surgeons experimented with medical procedures

and perform amputations without anaesthetic.

03

In 1888 Mary Kelly was

drinking at the Ten Bells before

she was mutilated by notorious

serial killer Jack the Ripper.

04

The Hunterian

Museum houses hundreds

of preserved anatomical

specimens in containers,

ranging from a cockerel’s

head to a severed human foot

and a conjoined twin deer.

01

The Cross Bones Graveyard

was a burial ground for paupers and

sex workers; when it closed in 1853 it

held an estimated 15,000 remains.

02

Formerly known

as the Devil’s Tavern,

it’s believed that

Prospect of Whitby is

the oldest pub on the

River Thames. It was

a renowned hang-out

for smugglers, villains

and pirates.

05

FROM TOP: CKTRAVELS.COM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

ALAN E TAYLOR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

52

LONDON

&

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BOHEMIAN | ADVENTURE | HISTORY

04

For a taste of bohemian

life head for the city’s vibrant

canals and their colourful regatta

of narrow boats. London’s artistic

community centres around these

nature-filled waterways, and

creatives have moved onto off-grid

and affordable houseboats. The

canals are now littered with great

cafes, pubs and various attractions.

CANAL

Cruising

JIM

BATTY/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

s Boat Art

More traditional boats have

folk art on their exteriors,

known as‘roses and castles’.

Look out for vessels deco-

rated with brightly coloured

panels, flowers, landscapes,

horses and castles. They’re

similar in style to folk art

from Germany and the

Netherlands, and the designs

on horse-drawn wagons by

Romani people.

ROBERT

EVANS/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

BLUE

SKY

IN

MY

POCKET/GETTY

IMAGES

©

53

Above left Canal Museum

Above ‘Roses and castles’boat art

Left Islington Tunnel (p54)

LONDON

&

AROUND EXPERIENCES

Tideless Passages

The canals were developed to transport

goods around the country in the days

before the railways, and narrow boats were

developed as a specific kind of vessel to

navigate these skinny, tideless waterways.

The remarkable engineering process involves

moving water up and down sections using

locks, which meant the network could cross

hilly terrain. The network took roughly 40

years to complete.

Whole families would live in boat cabins

as they travelled up and down Britain.

Historically, boats didn’t have engines

but instead were pulled by horses on the

‘towpaths’ adjacent to every canal. Today

these are enjoyed by the public as walking

and cycling paths. The Canal Museum in

King’s Cross is the place to learn about the

How to

Getting here Regent’s

Canal starts in

Paddington Basin

in West London and

snakes 8.6 miles

through the city all

the way to Limehouse

Basin in the east.

When to go The canals

are open 24 hours a

day, but don’t have

street lighting; it’s

advisable to stick to

daylight hours or bring

a torch.

Top tip The whole canal

is walkable, but rent a

bike or take a tour on

a canal boat, kayak or

paddleboard to see the

canals from a different

perspective.

54

history of the canals, and guests can take a

guided boat trip through the creepy mile-

long Islington Tunnel. Tours with Hidden

Depths also take groups on cruises through

the famous Camden Lock, by the world-

famous alternative market. On a summer’s

day, people sprawl out on the water’s edge

to watch boats going up and down the canal,

while enjoying artisan food and drinks from

the nearby vendors.

Exploring the Waterways

It’s easy to spend a day rambling from west

to east, starting with a coffee overlooking

‘Little Venice’ in Paddington at Cafe Laville

followed by a luxurious cheeseboard on the

floating Cheese Barge, then walking through

Regent’s Park and past the aviary at London

Zoo (birdsong guaranteed). Go on to Angel

and past ex-Prime Minister Boris Johnson’s

former residence, where he lived while

Mayor of London. Stop at the Towpath cafe

ĩ Best Canal Pubs

Rosemary Branch There’s no

canal view at this De Beauvoir

Town watering hole, but

excellent farm-fresh food and

an independent theatre upstairs

more than make up for it.

Palm Tree A perennial boater’s

favourite. This chintzy boozer

in Mile End is brimming with

eccentric charm.

Union Tavern In Westbourne

Park, with a lovely canal-side

terrace and a huge and ever-

changing craft-beer selection.

Studio Kitchen Hidden

away behind a locked gate off

Shepherdess Walk, Angel. Buzz

for entry, and imbibe your beer

on a floating pontoon.

Darcie & May Green Enjoy

cocktails on the terrace or

try the seriously good vegan

food on wide-beam boats in

Paddington Basin.

n By Joanna Walton,

resident narrow-

boater @littlejowalton

`

G

I

ņ

Ņ

6

B E T H N A L

G R E E N

K E N T I S H

T O W N

M A Y F A I R

T H E

C I T Y

S T

J A M E S ' S

T H E

S O U T H

B A N K

H A C K N E Y

F I N S B U R Y

P A R K

I S L I N G T O N

Camden

Lock

R

iv

er

Tha

me

s

Reg

en

t's

C

a

n

a

l

Regent's

Park

Hyde

Park

Hampstead

Heath

Green

Park

Victoria

Park

Cafe

Laville

Palm Tree

Broadway

Market

Towpath

Cafe

Queen Elizabeth

Olympic Park

London Canal

Museum

0

2 km

0

1 mile

e

RIGHT:

WILLIAM

BARTON/SHUTTERSTOCK

©;

LEFT:

MICK

FLYNN/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

Left Union Tavern pub

Below Broadway Market

55

LONDON

&

AROUND EXPERIENCES

in De Beauvoir for delicious creations like whole

confit garlic on ricotta toast or lamb neck, white

beans and pesto. Edge your way east, where you’ll

see the striking stark beauty of Regent’s Canal’s

iconic gas holders – some of the last remnants of

Victorian engineering on the canal. Mosey around

the vibrant Broadway Market on Saturdays, with

its vintage delights from old records to 1970s

flares, then experience the city’s colourful park

life with a visit to Victoria Park or the Queen

Elizabeth Olympic Park, where longboarders

and rollerbladers practise their skills and families

peruse wildflower gardens. Finish the tour with

a beer surrounded by kitsch decor preserved in

time at the middle-of-nowhere Palm Tree pub.

Floating Businesses

Brilliant barge businesses are dotted around

Regent’s Canal. Catch some comedy at the

floating Canal Cafe Theatre and stop in for a

poetry recital at moving bookshop Word on the

Water. Buy an album at the UK’s only floating

vinyl shop, The Record Deck, and dine at

restaurant Barge East, serving seasonal British-

inspired set menus. You can even sleep aboard a

boat – check online for accommodation listings.

HORIZON

INTERNATIONAL

IMAGES/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

IMAGEPLOTTER/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

56

LONDON

&

AROUND EXPERIENCES

How to

Getting here Fans of

street art are spoilt for

choice: hot spots include

Camden, Croydon and

various parts of East

London, especially around

Brick Lane, Hackney Wick

and Broadway Market.

When to go Street art is

something you can see

24 hours a day all over

the city. Tours usually

take place during daylight

hours on weekends.

Top tip Try it yourself at

a workshop, where you

can learn the skills, then a

guide will show you where

you’re allowed to leave

your tag.

Leave Your

MARK

ART | TOURS | WALKING

05

London is covered with street art, from colourful murals and stencils to

poster art. The city’s residents (and visitors) know how to express themselves

and the authorities have assigned designated urban walls for art, so everyone

can contribute to the ever-evolving outdoor gallery.

DAVE

STUART/LONELY

PLANET

©

57

Far left Leake Street Tunnel

Below Brick Lane street-art tour

Left Hanbury St

LONDON

&

AROUND EXPERIENCES

Free walls Drawing on walls or putting up artworks without

permission was illegal for decades, and still is in most

parts of the city, but there are now pockets where you can

legally do so. ‘Free walls’ are designated for graffiti art and

other mediums, the most famous of which is Leake Street

Tunnel next to Waterloo station. This site shot to fame after

anonymous street artist Banksy held the ‘Cans Festival’ here in

2008 to show how graffiti can improve buildings, not destroy

them. The 300m space was covered from wall to ceiling in

the most captivating, vibrant pieces, and remains so today.

The standard is world-class – come and view this outdoor

gallery and watch artists at work. Previous pieces range from

Banksy’s cave painting and a tree weighed down by CCTV

cameras to Nelson Mandela in a party hat.

Ever-evolving art There’s a better chance of viewing works by

graffiti greats while on a street-art tour. You may see the huge

mural of a bird on Hanbury Street, Spitalfields, by respected

Belgian artist ROA, or the monochrome masterpieces by artist

Phlegm around Walthamstow. In spots such as Camden,

Shoreditch, Brixton, Croydon and Hackney Wick, you never

know what you might stumble upon.

ť

Creating

a Paste-Up

Prepare your art Use any

instrument that will make

a mark on paper: pencil,

pen, crayon, acrylic paint,

digital printout or even

paper collage.

Mix a paste Wallpaper

paste is convenient and

cheap. Keep it ready-

mixed in a sealable tub.

Purists use wheat paste

(flour, water and a bit

of sugar).

Join a tour Don’t paste

up anywhere – this is

illegal. A guide will help

you find a spot where art

is encouraged.

Show courtesy Choosing

a blank spot or a torn or

decayed piece to cover

shows respect for other

artists.

Brighten the city Use

a brush to massage the

paste into the artwork

and cracks on rougher

surfaces. Take a photo

of your masterpiece

before it’s covered by the

next one.

n By Dave

Stuart, tour

guide,

Shoreditch

Street Art Tours

@shoreditchstreetarttours

58

LONDON

&

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FOOD | RETRO | TRADITIONS

06

A true East End delicacy,

originating from the Docks more

than a century ago, pie and mash

got London’s working classes

through some of the city’s darker

times, including the Industrial

Revolution and the Blitz. The

staple dish is having a moment

and re-emerging as a Cockney

favourite.

DEVOUR

Pie & Mash

STEPH

COUVRETTE/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

H Other Cult Classics

Scotch eggs Tasty boiled

eggs, covered in sausage

meat and breadcrumbs,

supposedly invented by

department store Fortnum &

Mason for travellers in 1738.

Bourbon creams Delicious

dark-chocolate-flavoured

biscuits invented in Ber-

mondsey in 1910.

Espresso Martinis Created

by innovative bartender Dick

Bradsell in the 1980s.

SERGIO

AMITI/GETTY

IMAGES

©

CHRISDORNEY/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

59

Above left Pie, mash and liquor

Above Scotch eggs

Left M Manze pie and mash shop (p60)

LONDON

&

AROUND EXPERIENCES

The Original Fast Food

Savoury pies have long been a staple,

transportable food in Britain. Their robust

crusts act as tasty protectors for the meat

filling inside, and they can be kept warm and

served quickly to workers.

Pies are traditionally served on a thick china

plate with two dollops of buttery mash potato,

and slathered with liquor (a parsley sauce).

Extras include a side of jellied eels and a

liberal scattering of salt and vinegar. Much to

the dismay of purists, pies may also be served

with a ladle of gravy and a side of mushy peas.

An Acquired Taste

Eels were a readily available, cheap protein

in the 18th century. They were served boiled

and chopped, with a spiced stock that when

cool forms a jelly. Chug them down with a

How to

Getting here

Atmospheric green-

tiled pie saloons can

still be found in East

and South London’s

historically unaffluent

neighbourhoods.

When to go Shops

are open year-round,

typically from late

morning to the

afternoon (eg 10am

to 5pm).

Top tip Get to shops by

noon to have your pick

of the pies: everything

is cooked fresh, and

when they’re gone,

they’re gone.

60

milky mug of breakfast tea or a glass of R.

Whites – a family lemonade recipe, invented

in Camberwell, South London, in 1845.

Traditional Recipes & Iconic Shops

Pie and mash shops typically have a

distinctive look and feel: they’re atmospheric,

welcoming, family-friendly spaces with

no-frills decor. Many still have the original

vintage Victorian bottle-green tiles, marble

countertops, wooden pews and gold signage.

M Manze in Bermondsey dates to 1902, and

is a glowing example of what pie and mash

shops looked like in Victorian London. The

Manze family had a South London monopoly

on the dish and a small empire of 14 shops –

three shops remain bearing the name.

F Cooke in Hoxton is another temple to pie

and mash; it’s hardly changed in a century.

There’s been a Cooke’s shop in London since

1862, and meat is still butchered on-site at

the East London branch. Noted Eel and

H Pie Essentials

The pastry Proper pies usually

have two different pastries, with

the base being a suet pastry

that stays soft and gives the pie

its‘soggy bottomed pie’name.

The filling A fine, lean minced

beef with a small amount of

gravy. Places making their

own traditional pies know their

stuff – every pie puts their

reputation on the line.

The sauce Liquor or‘London

gravy’is the ingredient that

those new to the delicacy can

be nervous to try. It’s a secret

recipe: a combination of pars-

ley, flour and eel water.

The condiments Top off

your pie and mash with white

pepper and (plain or spicy chilli)

vinegar.

n By Olac Coombs,

London Pie & Mash

Company

@londonpieandmash

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Pie House opened in Bow in 1926, before moving

to Leytonstone in the 1970s – it still uses a family

recipe dating back four generations. Pies are

handmade every morning with Scotch beef, boned

and minced on-site; new editions include vegan

pies. Goddards started as a family business in

Deptford in 1890. Expect queues out the door at

the Greenwich branch, where Cockney servers

will gladly run you through the extensive menu

of classic beef pies plus several modern takes:

douse them with the housemade chilli vinegar for

an extra kick. Historic photos on the walls show

pie shops and pearly queens from throughout

the ages.

Cockney Rhyming Slang

Try out the secret dialect from the East End in

your local pie and mash shop, one of the few

places in London it will still work. Dating back to

the mid-19th century, the slang involved replacing

a common phrase with two words that rhymed

with it, then only using the first word, so that the

uninitiated wouldn’t understand. Well-known

slang includes ‘apples and pears’ for stairs (only

use ‘apple’), ‘dog and bone’ for ‘phone’, ‘pork pies’

for ‘lies’, ‘Rosie Lea’ for ‘tea’ and so on. ‘Blowing

a raspberry’ comes from the Cockney rhyming

slang ‘raspberry tart’ for ‘fart’!

IAN

DAVIDSON/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

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DRAG

Crawl

KITSCH | COMEDY | LGBTIQ+

Incarnations of drag in London date back centuries, from men dressing

up as women in early Shakespeare performances in the 1500s and the first

pantomime dame in 1806 to a competition with more than 100 drag kings in the

21st century. Here’s where to celebrate the empowering and fierce art form in

Europe’s LGBTIQ+ capital.

07

Trip Notes

Getting here The Tube is the best way to navigate London’s drag

scene, but be aware that it typically only runs until midnight from

Sunday to Thursday.

When to go Visit venue websites for event start times and to check if

you need to book tickets in advance.

Top tip Come with an open mind. Drag is for everyone – it’s about fun,

freedom and expression!

ť Queen Bee

Britain’s first drag queen

was‘Princess Seraphina’,

aka a working-class man

named John Cooper. He

was renowned for wearing

women’s clothing around

his neighbourhood and

dressing as the opposite

sex to frequent‘molly

houses’(gay bars) in the

early 1700s. He notably

attended a high-profile

masquerade ball in

Vauxhall Gardens in all his

frills and finery.

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FROM LEFT: PA IMAGES/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©,

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PHOTO ©

Taking place on Saturdays

and Sundays, drag brunch at

East London gay bar Dalston

Superstore is a marvellously

messy affair, with a rotating

roster of acts.

03

There’s drag karaoke four

nights a week in the Karaoke Hole,

a kitschy, inclusive basement bar

serving naughtily named cocktails.

02

Head to the Admiral

Duncan for drag cabaret in

the heart of Soho, courtesy

of old-school drag queens

like Wilma Ballsdrop

(pictured p62), Crystal

d’Canter and Karla Bear.

04

A mid-19th-century music

hall, the Royal Vauxhall Tavern

has been an LGBTQ+ cabaret

and nightclub stalwart since

the end of the 20th century.

05

At The Holly Tree expect

innuendos-a-plenty and stacks

of prizes at drag bingo, taking

place a few times a month in this

charming pub’s garden.

01

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Cross

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Churchill

War Rooms

The Vaults

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5 km

0

2.5 miles

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London’s Lost

TUNNELS

SECRET | ENGINEERING | HISTORY

08

Secret doors inside London’s

Tube stations lead to creepy disused

Underground platforms, ventilation

shafts, construction tunnels and eerie,

abandoned ticket halls and lifts. Some

of these subterranean spaces were used

as bunkers during WWII and continue

to be used as filming locations for

movies and TV shows.

Hidden city London’s

world-famous Tube network

is 249 miles long and easy

to experience, but it’s also

possible to visit where

members of the public

don’t go: into the bowels

of the stations, where

disused tunnels, shafts and

passageways lie behind

secret doors. London

Transport Museum tours

explore five Tube stations:

Euston, Charing Cross,

Aldwych, Moorgate and

Clapham South.

Aldwych station Built in

1907 and closed in 1994,

Aldwych is the Holy Grail

for transport fans. This

abandoned ‘ghost’ station

is preserved in time, with

original Edwardian features,

bottle-green tiles, old phone-

box booths and wood-framed

ticket windows. It was used

as an air-raid shelter during

the Blitz and its tunnels once

stored art and treasures from

the British Museum. It has

How to

Getting here You can catch the Tube to the majori-

ty of these stations. Trains no longer go to Aldwych,

but it’s a three-minute walk from Temple station.

When to go Tours were running five days a week at

the time of research, but check London Transport

Museum’s website for the latest on tour dates.

Top tip Wear flat closed-toed shoes and don’t

bring luggage: you’ll be entering small spaces with

uneven surfaces and debris.

65

Far left natio et rep oluptas num net

haro net haro Left faccuptae su et rep

chica faccuptae qui su oluptas

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Above Greenwich Foot Tunnel

SCOTT

BALDOCK/GETTY

IMAGEST

©

X

Subterranean

Spaces

Postal Museum Deep below

Royal Mail’s Mount Pleasant

sorting office a miniature

train runs through the city’s

century-old postal railway

tunnel.

Churchill War Rooms

Sitting in the basement of

HM Treasury, channel your

inner Churchill in this WWII

military citadel.

The Vaults Find street and

alternative art or enjoy

immersive theatre in this

maze of abandoned and

disused railway arches

beneath Waterloo station.

Greenwich Foot Tunnel The

50m-deep, quarter-mile-long

Victorian foot tunnel through

the River Thames is used by

4000-plus people daily.

Brunel Museum Tunnel

Shaft The first-ever

underwater concert party

took place inside this tunnel,

designed by Marc Brunel and

his son, in 1827.

n By Lauren

Ielden, Senior

Town Planner,

AECOM @aecom

appeared in movies such as

Atonement, Darkest Hour and

Sherlock.

Charing Cross station

Behind an unassuming silver

door at the bottom of an

escalator is a cordoned-off

area with a secret platform.

With a little help from CGI,

this platform doubled as a

New York subway station

in Marvel’s Morbius movie.

James Bond slid down

the unused escalators

here in Skyfall, and the

station appears in Sherlock

and Killing Eve. The iron

ventilation shaft here is

something to behold: it

stretches 20m high, taller

than Nelson’s Column.

Peer through the vents for

a voyeur’s view from above

of trains coming in and

passengers disembarking.

GIFTZWERG92/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

ILEANA_BT/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

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How to

Getting here Get off at

South Kensington Tube

station: from here it’s a

four-minute walk to the

Natural History Museum.

When to go Dino

Snores for Grown-Ups

happens every month

(book in advance via

the museum’s website).

Got children? Book the

Dino Snores for Kids

experience.

What to bring Take a

sleeping bag, pillow,

torch, toothbrush

and pyjamas, plus a

hot-water bottle in the

winter months.

A Night at the

MUSEUM

DINOSAURS | MUSEUM | SLEEPOVER

09

Roam around the Natural History Museum in the wee hours of the night

during Dino Snores events and enjoy the extraordinary opportunity of having

the exhibition halls to yourself. Take a selfie with Dippy the Diplodocus, ponder a

175-million-year-old fossil of an ichthyosaur, and imagine what it would’ve been

like to encounter a woolly mammoth up close, while face to face with a stuffed one.

EMMA

BERNARD/LONELY

PLANET

©

67

Far left American mastodon skeleton

Below Fossil detail

Left Dino Snores

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Giant sleepover Upon your arrival in the evening, the

museum will provide roll mats to sleep on in the Hintze Hall,

dubbed the ‘cathedral of nature’. The best spot is under a

25m-long skeleton of a female blue whale suspended from the

ceiling. After a briefing, and some strict rules like ‘no doing it

like they do on the Discovery Channel’, get a complimentary

drink at the bar (a cash bar until 1am), then sit down for a

three-course meal (included in the ticket price), with menu

items like salmon sashimi, lasagne and baked American

cheesecake. Afterwards, explore the nooks and crannies of the

building crowd-free.

Activities galore Guests are split into four groups (each

named after a dinosaur, naturally). Each has timeslots for

activities, like Animal Encounters (with snakes, frogs,

scorpions and lizards), stand-up comedy, a pub quiz, a science

show and a monster movie marathon, which you can dip in

and out of as you please. In the morning there’s free yoga and

a hot breakfast.

Dinosaurs in the dark As the night draws on and the lights

dim, the magnificent Gothic building gets evermore Hogwarts-

esque. The atmosphere reaches a crescendo as a harpist plays

an evocative rendition of the Jurassic Park theme tune, which

echoes around the halls.

6 Top Tips

Arrival Get to Dino

Snores early and have the

pick of where to sleep,

whether under Hope, the

blue whale, or next to a

Mantellisaurus skeleton.

Fossil Way Look at the

marine reptiles on the wall

here: most specimens in

this gallery were found in

the UK. The ichthyosaurs

and plesiosaurs swam the

seas nearly 200 million

years ago.

Owl’s head Look out for

this in the bird gallery. A

pencil sticking out of the

side of its head shows

where the owl’s ear is.

Science show Hold

some specimens at this

show, and watch out for

the 50-million-year-old

coprolite (fossilised poo).

n By Emma

Bernard,

curator of

palaeobiology

& fossil fish, Natural History 

Museum @natural_history_

museum

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

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H Recharging Points

Singburi

£

Foodies from across the city travel to this

unassuming family-run Thai restaurant in

Leytonstone. Order everything from tangy

squid and soft-shell crab curry to moo krob,

with succulent deep-fried cubes of pork belly.

Black Axe Mangal

££

The flavours in this cubbyhole heavy-metal-

loving restaurant pack a punch – turn the

volume up on your taste buds with squid-ink

pancakes or lamb heart with fermented

shrimp butter. Band T-shirts most welcome.

Restaurant Gordon Ramsay

£££

Who said British food was bad? Chef

Ramsay’s fine restaurant in Chelsea has

three Michelin stars. Order dishes like native

lobster, roast veal sweetbread and 100-day-

aged Cumbrian Blue Grey. Reserve early.

Chin Chin Labs

£

This ice-cream brand/working science lab in

Soho turns flavoured liquid (such as burnt-

butter caramel and tonka bean) into ice cream

in front of patrons’ eyes using liquid nitrogen.

Okko

£

White walls and chunky wooden tables are all

you need when Japanese food is this good.

This Broadway Market joint’s offerings include

melt-in-the-mouth panko-fried salmon katsu

and uberfresh tuna poke bowls.

Gloria

££

This Shoreditch trattoria’s decor looks like

an Italian granny’s parlour. It serves pasta in

parmesan rounds and doorstop-sized slices

of lemon meringue pie.

Panda Cafe

£

Delicate dumplings are hand-stuffed with

delicious fillings at this family-run no-frills

Chinese cafe in Leytonstone. Excellent

regional dishes include hot and sour shredded

potatoes and double-cooked aubergine with

garlic.

Palomar

££

This Israeli/Levantine Soho restaurant with

the look of a 1930s diner serves up unusual

dishes such as crab kofta or green harissa

chicken freekeh with za’atar and fennel.

Dishoom

££

Some of London’s finest curries are served

among Bombay-style art deco interiors in

this Kensington outpost. The speciality is

a tender lamb-shank biryani with raita and

Bihari gravy.

Barge East

££

Meals here are served on a century-old,

100-tonne Dutch barge moored on the canal

in Hackney Wick. There’s a four-course

tasting menu with sensational British-inspired

small plates.

BlackAxe Mangal

ADRIAN

LOURIE/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

City Social

£££

With British Michelin-starred fine dining by

renowned chef Jason Atherton mixed with

sublime views of the Gherkin, this is prime

date territory. Dishes range from delicately

presented Devon crab to Orkney scallop and

wild Cornish turbot.

ĩ Watering Holes

Found

££

Hidden past a velvet curtain beneath Casita

on Ravey St in Shoreditch, this speakeasy

pours insanely good cocktails. The ‘Corpse

Maker’ is particularly pungent.

Connaught Bar

£££

A quintessential cocktail bar in Mayfair, with top

service, plus plenty of glamour and art deco

style. It specialises in martinis mixed at a silver-

toned bar. The house gin is distilled at the hotel.

Admiral Duncan

££

Long-standing gay pub in the heart of Soho,

featuring regular drag cabaret by old-school

drag queens.

George Inn

£

Shakespeare and Charles Dickens were

both once guests at this London Bridge

pub, formerly a coaching inn dating to 1677.

Intricate saloon rooms are adorned with

historic photos, and the large beer garden is

the best local spot in summer.

Grapeshot

££

Set in a narrow Dickensian alley near Liverpool

St station and lit by Victorian-style street

lighting, this cosy, wood-panelled wine bar

serves French and other European wines, plus

satisfying charcuterie and cheeseboards.

Blackfriar

£

Narrow, shaped like a triangle and set on the

site of a medieval friary in Blackfriars, there’s

nowhere quite like the Blackfriar. Inside it’s

adorned with peculiar wooden carvings of

monks and marble columns.

Royal Inn on the Park

£

Summer evenings here are alive with

merriment, as patrons spill out of the

Victorian building into the large pub garden in

Victoria Park. Craft beers, Cornish cider and

Belgian white beers are poured on tap.

g Fresh-Air Fixes

Sky Garden

The top three floors of the City of London’s

‘Walkie Talkie’ skyscraper are dedicated to

flowers. This 155m-high rooftop garden is an

unexpected wild place with panoramic views

of the Shard and sprawling metropolis below.

Hampstead Heath

The pastures of Hampstead Heath have been

here for centuries. This protected nature-rich

space feels light years away from the urban

grind. Parliament Hill is the place to soak up

glorious views of the city.

Hyde Park

Boat around on the Serpentine lake, visit

Speakers’ Corner, where people have aired

their views freely since 1866, and take a stroll

through the greenery in the largest of the four

Royal Parks.

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Sky Garden (architect Rafael Viñoly)

PAJOR

PAWEL/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

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Greenwich Park

Take in soaring views of the Old Royal

Naval College from this hilly park, home

to Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) and the

meridian line (Longitude Zero): from here the

east/west longitudes of everywhere else in

the world are measured.

Kew Gardens

The most comprehensive botanical collection

on earth, including the planet’s largest

collection of orchids, is in this 250-year-old,

121-hectare space. Along with flora, highlights

include Victorian glasshouses and a giant

Chinese pagoda.

a Cultural Compulsions

St Paul’s Cathedral

The current structure was built after the

building was set ablaze in the Great Fire of

London (1666). The stunning dome is one

of the largest of its kind. Climb to the top for

staggering views of the capital.

London Transport Museum

Stuffed with iconic transport from throughout

the ages, this is a brilliant choice for children,

who can press buttons, twist handles, walk

through interactive displays and sit in vintage

vehicles.

Churchill War Rooms

During WWII this bunker and underground

warren of offices in Whitehall was where

Prime Minister Winston Churchill strategised.

The intricately preserved rooms appear as

they did in 1945, with equipment, furniture

and original maps.

Buckingham Palace

If King Charles III is home, the Royal Standard

flag is flown. State Rooms are open to visitors

for 10 weeks each summer.

British Museum

Opened in 1759, this was the first national

public museum, and allowed people to

connect with other cultures through its exotic

collections. Highlights include Egyptian

mummies.

Tower Bridge

One of London’s most recognisable sights,

with its neogothic towers and sky-blue

suspension struts. Visitors can explore the

towers and engine room, and look through a

glass floor.

Tate Modern

This cavernous industrial space is one of the

most iconic galleries in the world, displaying

a seriously impressive collection of modern

works. Free permanent collections include

works by Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dalí and

Mark Rothko.

ZSL London Zoo

Visit Land of the Lions and Gorilla Kingdom,

and see giraffes, pygmy hippos, otters and

meerkats at the world’s oldest zoo, opened in

1828. It’s home to some 700 species.

Tower of London

Former royal residence, treasury, mint,

armoury and zoo, plus the home of the Crown

Tower Bridge

ANDRAS

POLONYI/EYEEM/GETTY

IMAGES

PREMIUM

©

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Jewels (with the biggest diamonds in the

world), it’s most renowned for its prison and

execution site, where queens and a king met

their end.

Science Museum

More than 1200 interactive and educational

exhibits spanning early scientific discoveries

to space travel. The Exploring Space gallery

features the spacecraft that took Neil

Armstrong to the moon in 1969.

National Gallery

With more than 2300 European master-

pieces, including from Leonardo da Vinci,

Michelangelo, Titian, Vincent Van Gogh and

Auguste Renoir. British artists on display

include Thomas Gainsborough, John

Constable and JMW Turner.

National Portrait Gallery

A chronological collection of some of the

most famous faces in history, starting with

the early Tudors right up to the modern day.

r Indie Traders

Borough Market

A market has existed in this very spot (now

known as London Bridge) for 1000 years. It’s

overflowing with small shops and food stalls.

Camden Market

Still the bohemian beating heart of London,

here at the stalls beside Camden Lock you’ll

find rockers, goths and hippies from around

the world continuing to buy their wares.

Greenwich Market

Crafts, cakes, farm produce and independent

clothes retailers collide under this covered

historic market near Greenwich Park.

Broadway Market

East London’s hipster hang-out, with organic

food, vintage vinyl and clothes from decades

past all up for grabs at its stalls.

Brixton Village & Market Row

With eclectic coffee shops, craft-beer bars,

fabric shops, bazaars and restaurants, plus a

solid dollop of Afro-Caribbean flavour.

Old Spitalfields Market

This market, near Liverpool St Tube station,

has been here in one incarnation or another

since 1638. Traders still tout antiques,

jewellery and hand-crafted designs each

weekend.

Columbia Road Flower Market

Selling plants, Christmas trees (in winter),

bulbs, seeds and a beautiful array of flowers

in Bethnal Green.

Portobello Road Market

Legendary market selling antiques, vintage

items, curios, collectables and trinkets from

Friday to Sunday in Notting Hill.

Science Museum

COWARDLION/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND

BEACHES | HISTORY | FOOD

u Cycling among

Royalty (p78)

u Margate’s Popularity

Boom (p80)

u Self-Guided

Punting (p82)

u Exploring the

Waterways (p84)

u Brighton Food

Tour (p86)

u Southeast England

Castles (p90)

u Seafood by the

Beach (p92)

u Drive the Norfolk

Coast (p94)

u Vintage

Shopping (p96)

u The Cotswolds by

Train (p100)

u Hike the White

Cliffs (p102)

u On Safari in

England (p104)

u Listings (p106)

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H A M P S H I R E

S U R R E Y

O X F O R D S H I R E

W E S T

S U S S E X

Isle of

Wight

E

n

g

li

sh

Ch

ann

el

Salisbury

Plain

South Downs

National Park

A

v

o

n

Windsor

Cheltenham

Basingstoke

Brighton

Bath

Reading

Portsmouth

Gloucester

Oxford

Bristol

LONDON

Guildford

Crawley

High Wycombe

ē

Ĥ

Ą

Q

ħ

0

100 km

0

50 miles

e

Eat your way around

Brighton, one of

the coolest cities in

the country (p86)

ŉ 1hr from London

Cycle in the Great Park for the best

views of Windsor Castle (p78)

ŉ 40mins from London

Varied cities, pretty towns and two national

parks make SOUTHEAST England a holiday hot spot.

Enjoy strolling the beaches, sampling the seafood,

soaking up the history and seeing exotic animals up

close. The coastline here is stunning!

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND

Trip Builder

Explore the honey-hued

Cotswolds villages by

train and foot (p100)

ŉ 1½hrs from London

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

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N O R F O L K

E S S E X

E A S T

S U S S E X

S U F F O L K

K E N T

F R A N C E

C A M B R I D G E S H I R E

North Sea

Strait

of Dover

The

Broads

Norfolk

Broads

Tham

e

s

Ely

Rye

Great Yarmouth

Colchester

Canterbury

Eastbourne

Southend-on- Sea

Hastings

Cambridge

Norwich

Chelmsford

Ipswich

Dover

Ashford

Whitstable

Margate

I

Ĥ

Đ

E F

Ħ

B

Hire a boat on the Norfolk

Broads to experience the

waterways (p84)

ń 2hrs 20mins from London

Enjoy the view of England’s white cliffs from

the Seven Sisters coastal walk (p102)

ń 2hrs 20mins from London

Wander around Rye, one

of the most picturesque

towns in England (p97)

ń 2hrs from London

Soak up the history in

Cambridge with a self-

guided punting tour (p82)

ŉ 1hr from London

Enjoy the fruits of a working harbour with

a foodie walk around Whitstable (p92)

ń 1½hrs from London

See the giraffes, gorillas and lions at the

Port Lympne Animal Reserve (p104)

ń 1¾hrs from London

FROM LEFT: DELIA_SUVARI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

ANDREYSPB21/ SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

JIM COOK/GETTY IMAGES ©,

PREMIER PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PREVIOUS SPREAD: HADRIAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DAN

PRATT/GETTY

IMAGES

©

76

Practicalities

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND FIND

YOUR

FEET

HOW MUCH

FOR A

WHEN TO GO

GETTING AROUND

Punt hire

£25 per hour

Dover Castle entry

£26

Fish and chips

£12

Train Every city in southeast

England and many towns have

train stations. As you get more

rural, and reach the coast, train

travel is limited and you’ll need

to use local buses or taxis. Taxis

can get expensive near the coast

and you’ll have to use local

services. There are a few different

rail operators depending on the

route. Buy your tickets before you

board. It’s more expensive during

peak times.

ARRIVING

London Stansted England’s top airport for cheap

airlines. By train it’s 30 minutes (£10+) from

Cambridge, 1¾ hours (£24+) from Norwich and

2½ hours (£60+) from Margate. National Express

coaches are generally cheaper, but take longer.

London Gatwick The second-largest airport in

England (pictured) and closer to the Cotswolds

(two hours by car), Eastbourne (one hour) and

Windsor (one hour). Buy train tickets in advance

to save time and money. National Express

coaches also run from here.

Car Many operators work out of

Gatwick and Stansted, and you

can also hire cars in England’s

cities. Easier for reaching the

coastal locations.

Walking The cities and towns of

England are walkable, and this

is the best way to experience

them too.

DEC–FEB

Cold and may snow, good for

festive feels.

JUN–AUG

Summer days, great time for

events, festivals, hiking and

sightseeing, although busy.

MAR–MAY

Brisk with occasional sunny

days, can rain a lot.

SEP–NOV

Sunny but getting cooler, often

raining towards November.

TOP:

VORAPHONG/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

BOTTOM:

EYEMATTER/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

77

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND FIND

YOUR

FEET

WHERE TO STAY

Attractive accommodation in southeast England can be pricey, but

there are plenty of budget options available. Midrange chains include

Travelodge and Premier Inn, available in most cities.

EATING & DRINKING

On southeast England’s coast seafood is the dish of the day. Oysters,

lobsters, cockles and mussels (pictured top right) are popular here,

and, of course, no beach trip is complete without fish and chips.

Brighton is nationally famous for its vegan scene, the Cotswolds and

Windsor have some lovely traditional English pubs and the street-

market food in Cambridge is great for anyone on a budget. You need to

have a traditional cream tea while you’re here too!

Best meal with a view Beachy Head Pub, Eastbourne (pictured

bottom right, p103)

Must-try oysters Wheelers, Whitstable (p93)

MONEY

Contactless is easiest for payments, and accepted

in most places. If you’re on the coast carry some

coins for parking and cash for activities. Check out

dayoutinengland.com for more budget tips.

DISCOUNT TRAVEL PASSES

Look for great local transport

deals such as the Norfolk Coast-

hopper, the open-top bus from

Eastbourne, and discounted bus

day passes in the cities.

CONNECT & FIND YOUR WAY

Wi-fi Many cafes and restaurants

offer free wi-fi, and citywide wi-fi

is also available. For the best con-

nection rent a pocket wi-fi device

or buy a data-only SIM card.

Navigation Google Maps is

widely used. Download maps to

your phone, especially if visiting

more rural locations such as

the Cotswolds. 5G is available in

theory but sometimes you can’t

even get phone reception.

Place

Pro/Con

North Norfolk

Plenty of B&Bs available, plus coastal

camping. Premium spots book up fast.

Canterbury

Lots of choice in the city centre; opt for a

characterful building for the fun of it.

Margate

Hotels with sea views to wake up to, but

those great locations cost!

Cotswolds

Stay in pub inns for a lovely experience,

with dinner downstairs. Pricey during

holidays.

Hastings

By the seafront you’ll be close to the

pier for a morning walk. Can be noisy at

weekends.

Brighton

Stay at a spa hotel, and recover from the

night before.

DAYDREAMEQUINEPHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

LUCIAN

MILASAN/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

78

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

How to

Getting here/around

Windsor Central or

Windsor Riverside train

stations are closest.

There’s plenty of parking

in Windsor.

Bike hire Bring your own

bike or rent from Windsor

Cycle Hire or the Bike

Company nearby. Expect

to pay around £30 to £35

for the day.

When to go Check the

events calendar for

royal occasions and event

days as they’re a lot

busier. Aim for shoulder

seasons on weekdays

for the right ‘weather to

busyness’ ratio.

Cycling among

ROYALTY

CYCLING | ROYALTY | GARDENS

10

Hire a bike for a gentle self-guided tour around Windsor Great Park.

You’ll see the famous deer, the beautiful ponds, and possibly even royalty

driving down the Long Walk. With Windsor Castle in the background, and all

the delights of the city nearby, this is a lovely way to get some scenic exercise,

with tasty food opportunities afterwards.

JUN

HUANG/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

79

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

Far left Red deer, Windsor Great Park

Below left Windsor Castle

Above Windsor Farm Shop

For the fact lovers Windsor Great Park was once part of a

huge Norman hunting forest: now it covers over 7.8 sq miles.

Millions visit the royal park to walk and cycle thanks to the

extensive woodlands and flat, tarmac surface. There are over

12 miles of open routes for cyclists.

Where to go Enter via the Stag Meadow in the north of the

Great Park near the castle, then you can follow the National

Cycle Route 4 through Cranbourne Chase and The Village.

Either go east and exit through Bishops Gate, or go southeast

on the permitted road and pop into the Savill Garden

Visitor Centre. Look out for the Cumberland Obelisk and

the Prince Consort Statue. You can then either go back the

same way, or cycle down past the Valley Gardens and to

the west of Virginia Lake. Exit via Five-Arch Bridge, out of

Blacknest Gate.

Important spots Much of the park is designated as a Site

of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) and a Special Area of

Conservation (SAC), so there are some great natural things

to see. Look out for oak trees over 1000 years old, planted in

the time of William the Conqueror, who initiated the building

of Windsor Castle. You may see red deer, muntjac deer, roe

deer and badgers. Visit the 30m totem pole given to the

Queen by Canada in 1958 and the Queen Elizabeth statue on

horseback.

H After-Cycle Eats

Rest those weary legs with

a snack stop at the Savill

Garden Kitchen (there’s

a cycle rack there). They

have a great breakfast

menu, wood-fired pizzas,

salads and burgers too –

the lamb tagine is pretty

special. Or you can pick

up picnic supplies such as

breads, meats, cheeses,

pies, sausage rolls and

quiches at the Windsor

Farm Shop – take them

to the Cow Pond or Stag

Meadow to enjoy.

The Fox and Hounds

pub is a favourite among

cyclists, and serves epic

Sunday roasts, steaks and

great local fresh produce

just outside the park.

RON

ELLIS/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

80

Left Turner Contemporary (architect,

David Chipperfield)

Centre Dreamland

Right Margate Harbour Arm

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND ESSAY

Margate’s

Popularity

Boom

THE EPICENTRE OF

ENGLAND’S SEASIDE-

TOWN RENAISSANCE

Margate had long

been one of England’s

top seaside resorts,

but as cheap

European flights

became popular, it

was badly affected by

the tourism decline.

In the last decade

though, the seaside

town has catapulted

over others to become

one of the country’s

most popular spots.

What’s behind this

epic tale of revival?

Art & Independence

Perched on the east coast of Kent, Margate has historically

been associated with art. Controversial artist Tracey Emin

grew up here, while Romantic painter JMW Turner often

visited to paint the sea and skies. He died in 1851, never

knowing that it would be his namesake art gallery, built

on the seafront in 2011, that really spawned the change.

There’s no doubt that the £17-million internationally

acclaimed Turner Contemporary art gallery is the

catalyst for Margate’s cool.

As soon as Margate was taken seriously as an artists’

enclave, many celebrated artists – like Carl Freedman, who

moved his London gallery here – have flocked from London

on the promise of cheaper living but with an edgy art scene

by the beach. Even if not to live, then to visit, as it’s only 90

minutes from London by train. So many have come, in fact,

that Margate is controversially known as‘Shoreditch on Sea’.

‘Junk shops’ became retro shops, vintage boutiques

popped up, smaller galleries opened and the seaside kitsch

Margate emulates became cool. So cool that hotels once

used as hostel housing for the displaced are now being

renovated for city weekend-trippers. House prices here

have doubled since 2012, and yearly visitor numbers are in

their hundreds of thousands. Even rock band The Libertines

are on board, setting up the Albion Rooms – a hotel, bar,

restaurant and recording studio, with festival plans too.

Believe the Hype

With vintage theme park Dreamland opening in 2017 after

a £25-million revamp, Margate enjoyed some viral online

buzz. Instagrammers weren’t necessarily interested in

THOMAS

FAULL/GETTY

IMAGES

©

NEIL

LANG/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

81

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND ESSAY

Margate offers something

and somewhere a little

different to spend time

and money.

riding the oldest roller coaster in the UK here, but they did

want to get an urban, grimy, colour-popping photograph of

themselves next to it…ideally a classic hero shot with the

iconic Ferris wheel in the background.

And if the artists and

Instagrammers wanted to

be here, then so did their

followers. Millions have

been hot on their heels to

get in on the candyfloss,

vintage signs and colourful fishers’ huts aesthetic, and to

experience that long Blue Flag–winning Main Sands Beach.

Inventive Food & Drink

All these creative individuals in one place have created the

perfect breeding ground for high-quality restaurants to

experiment. Buoy and Oyster are racking up the awards

for their unique seafood offerings. Bottega Caruso is a

popular restaurant, deli and pastificio inspired by Campania in

southern Italy. And the Old Kent Market was once a cinema,

but is now a firm favourite among foodies thanks to the

thriving pop-up restaurants inside.

Chain shops and restaurants are unable to operate in the

relatively small business spaces on offer in Margate, allowing the

town to remain mainly independent. This physical barrier is en-

suring that Margate keeps its own grimy, incomparable charm.

With national tourism on the rise, Margate offers something

and somewhere a little different to spend time and money.

Vintage funfairs, independent restaurants and a gorgeous

beach seem to be just the ticket to celebrate the nostalgic

seaside charm of yesteryear.

ť

Margate

Harbour Arm

Margate Harbour Arm is

one of the biggest draws

to the town, visually and

gastronomically. The

traditional fishers’cottages

on the sea promenade here

have been restored and now

stand as colourful cafes and

enticing restaurants (check

out Sargasso for coastal

cooking, Dive for tacos and

margaritas, and Grub Hub

for a taste of the Caribbean).

It’s south-facing – perfect for

sitting outside the Harbour

Arms micro-pub and people-

watching while sipping on a

cider. Enjoy the panoramic

view of Margate seafront,

with the boats masterfully

chugging in and out, and the

bronze Shell Lady statue

looming in the distance.

82

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

1

1

I

I

I

C A M B R I D G E

C

a

m

The

Backs

S

ilv

er

St

Trum

pingt

on

S

t

St

Jo

hn

's

St

Qu

een

's

Rd

K

it

ch

en

B

ri

dg

e

Clare

Bridge

Trin

ity

Brid

ge

G

a

r

r

e

t

H

o

s

t

e

l

B

r

id

g

e

Kin

g's

Pde

Clare College

King's College

Chapel

Trinity Hall

Mathematical

Bridge

St John’s College

Bridge of Sighs

0

200 m

0

0.1 miles

D

(2mi)

Grantchester e

Go punting on the River Cam,

along the prestigious College Backs. Set

your own itinerary, following a backdrop

that has inspired many poets and

writers, and take in the city’s history via

this iconic Cambridge activity. To really

make a day of it bring a map, pack a

picnic and heed our advice on where to

stop for those great photos.

Key things to see Guided

punting tours are common,

but if you want more control

over what to see and where

to go, privately hire a punt

with friends. Punt your

way under the St John’s

College Bridge of Sighs

for the best view of one of

the most iconic spots in the

city. Keep punting and you’ll

pass Trinity Hall, one of the

oldest colleges at Cambridge

University. Next up is King’s

College Chapel – capture

the timing just right and you’ll

be surrounded by an amazing

reflection in the water of

the most famous building in

Cambridge. Other punting

highlights include passing

through the beautiful gardens

of Clare College and under

the Mathematical Bridge,

one of the most interesting

architectural wonders in

the city.

Get out of the city Hire

a punt from Scudamores

and you can take the Upper

How to

Getting here/around Arriving at Cambridge train

station is the easiest option for exploring the city.

When to go Spring and autumn are less crowded

and the colours in nature lining the banks are stun-

ning. Summer is better weather, but busy. In winter

cosy up with a blanket and hot-water bottle as you

punt – a layering of snow and a lantern makes it all

the more magical.

Top tip If you can’t touch the bottom with the pole,

you won’t get very far!

Self-Guided

PUNTING

RIVER | CRUISE | HISTORY

11

83

Above Punting towards the Bridge of Sighs

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

CMSPIC/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

6 Tips for Punting

Walk to the end of the punt

and stand up on the deck. Gen-

tly rock the punt with your feet

to get a feel for your balance.

To move forward, lift your

pole out of the water on your

most comfortable side. Then

place the bottom of the pole

against the outside of the boat.

Drop the pole into the water

down to the riverbed, letting it

fall through your hands. Then

push! After you’ve pushed off,

let the pole end trail behind the

punt. If you drag the pole left

or right through the water, you

will turn. Use the pole like a

boat rudder.

n By Ivan from punting hire

www.scudamores.com

@puntingcambridge

River all the way to the quaint

village of Grantchester, about

2.5 miles to the south. You’ll

meander through fenland,

meadows and woods to the

home of famed war poet

Rupert Brooke.

Where to hire Cambridge

Chauffeur Punts has private

hires, as do Granta Moorings

and Trinity College Punting,

while Scudamores is the

oldest company in Cambridge

and has a range of tours to

choose from.

84

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

#

#

#

#

#

#

Ù

Ù

Ù

Ù

Ù

Ģ

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I

I

I

N O R F O L K

Norfolk

Broads

B

u

re

B

u

r

e

How Hill

North

Walsham

Potter

Heigham

Loddon

Stalham

Palling

Norwich

Ranworth

Wroxham

Horning

Hardley

Windmill

Hunsett Drainage Mill

Thurne Dyke

Mill

North Sea

ġ

ġ

ġ

ġ

0

10 km

0

5 miles

e

Hiring a boat and cruising

around isn’t the only way to experience

the glorious Norfolk Broads. To see

this conserved area up close there are

many ways to get out on the water,

depending on the weather and where

you want to go. Here’s how to mix them

up to see as much of England’s largest

protected wetland as possible.

Hire a boat This is the most

popular way to see the Norfolk

Broads, especially if you have

a few days. Most visitors will

get some friends together to

split the cost and take turns at

the helm. You can choose your

own route and stop as soon

as you see something you like.

Expect to pull over regularly

for riverside pubs, parks and

pretty scenes.

Go on a boat trip If you don’t

want the responsibility of

navigating and steering, then

you can board the Vintage

Broadsman Belle of the Broads

for a few hours to see the high-

lights. Enjoy the commentary

from those in the know.

Rent a kayak or paddleboard

Calm waters and minimal tidal

movement make the Norfolk

Broads perfect for self-

powered watercraft. Paddling

quietly means you can explore

the nooks and crannies of

the thriving waterways the

motorboats can’t reach. You’ll

also see some of the wildlife

How to

Getting here/around It’s easier by car (or taxi),

but possible by bus from Norwich to Wroxham (30

minutes to one hour; £2). Once here, get around via

the waterways.

When to go It’s extremely busy from May to

September. Always book your activities in advance.

It can rain a lot, so bring a rain jacket.

Cost Day boat hire per hour from £20; boat trip

from £14.50; kayak rental per two hours from £25.

Fun fact There are more miles of waterways here

than in Venice or Amsterdam!

EXPLORING

the Waterways

WATER | SCENERY | BOATS

12

85

Above Thurne Dyke Mill

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

RICHARD

OD/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

v

Explore the

Norfolk Mills

In the Domesday Book

(William I’s epic and

thorough land survey from

1086) over 500 mills were

listed in Norfolk and Suffolk,

used for grinding corn or

flour and for drainage on the

Broads. Around 75 remain.

You can go inside some of

them and climb up for great

views. The most popular to

visit is Thurne Dyke Mill

(dating to 1820); it has a

museum on-site. Hunsett

Drainage Mill is one of the

most photographed in all of

Norfolk, although you’ll need

a boat to see it. Look out

for regular summer events

at the beautifully restored

Hardley Windmill.

the area is known for – king-

fishers, voles, herons and

maybe even the elusive otter.

Visit the villages Ranworth

is pretty, as is Horning with

its tearooms and lovely

pub. Wroxham is known as

‘the capital’ of the Norfolk

Broads, with many boat trips

departing from here, plus a

shopping street and a few

restaurants and pubs to try.

86

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

Food | CITY | BEACH

13

Visit Brighton and work

your way round the Lanes, the

high street, the back streets

and along the pier trying as

much local food as possible.

Brighton’s street-food and

vegan scene is well worth the

trip, as are the epic desserts

you’ll find here.

BRIGHTON

Food Tour

CKTRAVELS.COM/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

H Eating on the Pier

Eating on Brighton Palace

Pier may seem cheesy, but

if you’re visiting the city as

a tourist it’s a must. Who

can say no to a chocolatey

churro after a round on

the arcades? Choose from

Horatio’s sourdough pizzas,

doughnuts and crêpes, or

Palm Court, famed for its

burgers.

KEVIN

GEORGE/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

PACK-SHOT/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

87

Above left Open Market

Above Brighton Palace Pier

Left Shelter Hall

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

Try the Street Food

Wrap up warm for Brighton’s Open Market

to enjoy the small selection of great food

stalls, from home-cooked Bangladeshi food

at Spice of Life to the tacos de mole at

Casazul, made with more than 40 carefully

blended ingredients. There’s also a monthly

vegan food market here. Or visit the Shelter

Hall food market on the seafront to try

the ever-changing fare from seven leading

local chefs, with cocktails too. Pop into

their Skylark Bar for great views over the

seafront. Book early! On Saturdays, check

out the Florence Road Market, Brighton’s

oldest farmers market, opposite London Rd

train station, with stalls selling farmhouse

cheese toasties, East African BBQ and

Chinese pork buns.

How to

Getting here/around

It’s easy to walk from

Brighton train station

into the city, and it’s only

a 15-minute walk from

the beach as well. Public

transport is easiest.

When to go Any time is

great to visit Brighton,

although a sunny day

is best for visiting the

beach.

Cost Restaurant meals

start at around £12,

street food from £5,

and takeaway fish and

chips from £8.

Top tip If you’re on a

budget you can still eat

well here by heading

for the bakeries. Try the

Flour Pot Bakery, Open

Bakery or Cloud 9.

88

Eat in the Labyrinthine Streets

There’s some delicious food to be found

in among the iconic historic alleys of the

Lanes. Go for craft beer and bites at Beak

Market, enjoy the vegan-dish wine matching

at Terre à Terre, the brunch at Lost in the

Lanes and Sunday lunches or smoked ribs

at the Mesmerist. The Black Lion and the

Cricketers also serve expertly cooked pub

favourites. If you’re looking for a pre- or

post-dinner drink, then Bohemia is the place

to be for cocktails. Watching the mixologists

at work is mesmerising, and you can enjoy

sipping their hard work on the roof terrace.

Indulge in the Vegan Culture

Brighton is well known as one of the most

vegan-friendly cities in England – the vegan

scene here is strong. Try Bonsai Plant

Kitchen for pan-Asian small plates like

banh mi sliders, miso-marinated sweet potato

skewers, wasabi-glazed aubergine or crispy

teriyaki tofu at high communal tables or low

G

Best Desserts from

Brighton Restaurants

etch. By Steven Edwards You’ll

get a few desserts on this tasting

menu, each with deceptively

simple names – being deceived

never tasted so good.

Petit Pois If you have to

choose one dessert, order the

profiterole with pistachio ice

cream. If you get to choose two,

go for the trio of crèmes brûlées.

Brighton Regency Routemaster

Afternoon tea and a tour

of Brighton on a converted

Routemaster bus: it may not be

technically a dessert, but it’s too

good to miss.

Ivyin the Lanes Pour hot salted

caramel over its Graduation

Bombe to reveal its secret centre.

n By Rhys Trussler,

head of content, www.

RestaurantsBrighton.

co.uk

@restaurantsbrighton

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Lost in

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©

Left Brighton Regency Routemaster

Below Captains Fish and Chips

89

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

private tables, along with Asian-inspired cocktails.

Purezza has vegan woodfired sourdough pizzas.

For something a little more upmarket, head to

vegan bistro Botanic, with à la carte dining and a

natural wine list. If any omnivores suggest you’re

missing out on fish and chips at the beach, direct

them to the No Catch Co. Its signature tofish will

quash any hankering for a taste of the sea in one

bite.

But if You Want a Seafood Restaurant…

Riddle & Finns The Lanes is often regarded

as the best seafood restaurant in Brighton, and

worth the price. Don’t leave without trying at

least one oyster! If you’re just after a quick bite of

seafood while you’re in the city, then the Brighton

Shellfish & Oyster Bar in the Fishing Quarter

is a delight – its lobster rolls are the ultimate

taste sensation. Need somewhere for a special

occasion? The Michelin-starred Salt Room

Restaurant serves amazing seafood in generous

portions. And if you just want some straight-up

fantastic fish and chips, Captains Fish and Chips

is a great choice, served right on Brighton Beach.

What more could you ask from a food tour in

Brighton?

01

05

02

04

03

Southeast England

CASTLES

Southeast England

CASTLES

01 Oxford Castle,

Oxfordshire

Right in Oxford’s centre,

this partly ruined castle

is more than 1000 years

old. Ascend the 101

steps for great views

over the city.

02 Hastings Castle,

East Sussex

Visit this ruined castle

for wide-reaching views

over Hastings and the

English Channel. There is

lots of history here – this

was the first Norman

castle in England.

03 Sudeley Castle,

Gloucestershire

At Sudeley Castle in the

Cotswolds you can walk

around the 10 glorious

gardens and explore the

castle rooms.

04 Bodiam Castle,

East Sussex

This 14th-century

moated castle may have

a ruined interior, but the

exterior is wonderfully

intact and set in glorious

grounds.

05 Dover

Castle, Kent

Perched on the White

Cliffs of Dover, this

iconic English fortress

played a vital lookout

role in both world wars.

06 Leeds

Castle, Kent

This beautiful 19th-

century castle is built

on islands in a lake

formed by the River

Len, with 200 hectares

of parkland and

gardens.

90

07

10

08

06

09

01. GOWITHSTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 02 LARIGAN - PATRICIA HAMILTON/GETTY IMAGES ©, 03 DAVE PORTER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 04 FADIBARGHOUTHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

05 FILIP FUXA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 06 CYNTHIA LIANG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 07 CHOMNAPHA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 08 FULCANELLI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 09 VALERIE2000/

SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 10 PETER CRIPPS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

07 Windsor Castle,

Berkshire

The oldest and largest

occupied castle in

the world, and home

to British kings and

queens for more than

1000 years.

08 Arundel Castle,

West Sussex

Arundel Castle is one

of England’s largest

inhabited and complete

castles. It’s situated in

magnificent grounds

overlooking the

River Arun.

09 Rochester

Castle, Kent

This Norman fortress

dominates Rochester’s

skyline from its perch

high on the site of an

old Roman settlement

on the River Medway’s

east bank.

10 Lewes Castle,

East Sussex

A Norman castle

built after the Battle

of Hastings by

supporters of William

the Conqueror. Enjoy

stunning views over

Sussex from the top.

91

CKTRAVELS.COM/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

ALEXANDRE

ROTENBERG/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

92

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

How to

Getting here/around

Whitstable is less than

90 minutes by train from

London St Pancras or

Victoria. There’s free off-

street parking available,

and car parks too. The

seaside town is totally

walkable.

When to go Summer

obviously has more

favourable beach

conditions, but winter

will be a lot quieter.

Whitstable’s native

oysters are best from

September to April.

How much One oyster

from £1.50; fish and chips

from £12.95.

SEAFOOD

by the Beach

FOOD | BEACHES | TEA

14

Colourful Whitstable knows how to serve a good oyster. Head to this

seafood capital on the north Kent coast for epic crustacean platters and

exceptional fish and chips. Enjoy watching the working harbour and breathing

in the fresh salty air as you wander the shingle beach, with a homemade ice

cream from super-kitsch Sundae Sundae parlour to top it all off.

SUE

MARTIN/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

93

Far left Oysters, Whitstable Harbour

Below Market, Harbour St

Left Wheelers Oyster Bar

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

Oysters These are legendary here and Wheelers is an

institution. Look out for the iconic candyfloss-pink shop, which

dates back to 1856. Sit in or order a seafood special picnic box

to eat on the beach. The Forge oyster shack is another great

spot to try the slippery delicacy – you’ll find it at the sea wall.

Or wander the seafood shacks on the East Quay and just pick

your favourite. Oysters taste best with a glass of one of Kent’s

sparkling wines – fact.

Fish and chip shops While fish and chipperys are plentiful in

bohemian Whitstable, Clive’s Plaice is a great bet for crispy

battered fish and fluffy chips, and daily seafood paella, as well

as banana fritters drizzled with honey. Ossie’s Best Fish and

Chips is another great option: it’s just a few minutes’ walk to

the beach for a sunset dinner with a view.

Seafood restaurants It’s tough to choose between them

here. Crab and Winkle on the South Quay claims the freshest

catch from the fishing boats on the harbour. Opt for the

seasonal shellfish platter – trust us. The Sportsman has a

Michelin star and serves a fishy tasting menu of local produce

for the foodie nobility. Gourmands also visit Birdies for the

lobster with saffron cream and the rich seafood bisque. Local

favourite Samphire is great for straight-up fantastic seafood,

bistro-style, without any fussiness!

r

Sightseeing

& Souvenirs

There’s even more to

Whitstable than the

mouth-watering restau-

rants. You could take a

walk round Whitstable

Castle, followed by an

afternoon tea, for a

delightful English experi-

ence. Or how about a boat

tour around Whitstable

Bay or out to see the

Maunsell Forts?

If you like shopping,

then visit colourful Har-

bour St for vintage items

at Brits Love Vintage,

vinyl records at Gatefield

Sounds, and to try on

some stylish clothes at

Urbanista. Before you

leave, wander Whitstable

Harbour to pick up a

souvenir picture, candle

or piece of jewellery at the

beach-hut shops.

94

STEPHEN

NOULTON/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

DRIVE

the Norfolk Coast

ROAD TRIP | WILDLIFE | RESTAURANTS

Travelling the coastal roads of the North Norfolk Coast is the best way to

experience the area. From beaches to boats, crabbing to country estates, you’ll

enjoy open views across the hinterlands, wide sands and tidal marshes, stopping

as you please.

15

Trip Notes

Getting here/around Hourly trains run to King’s Lynn from London

King’s Cross.

Transport tips No car? The Norfolk Coasthopper bus operates

regularly between King’s Lynn and Cromer.

When to go Summer’s best, but hot spots can seem overcrowded.

Aim for sunny days in shoulder seasons.

Top tip Park at Old Hunstanton Beach to walk the mile to Hunstanton

Beach for fish and chips. Its westerly direction makes it Norfolk’s best

sunset place.

H

Best North Norfolk

Food Spots

Dabbling Duck (Great

Massingham) A great country

pub for a lovely lunch.

Sculthorpe Mill (near Raynham

Estate) One of only two English

pubs with a new Michelin Bib

Gourmand for 2022.

Back to the Garden (outside

Holt) Has beautiful fresh

produce and an excellent bakery.

Holkham Beach (pictured) A

stunning, vast spot for family

picnics.

n By LordTom

Raynham, who

manages Raynham

Estate, Norfolk

@raynhamnorfolk

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Royal Sandringham

is the King’s country

estate. Visit the park,

shop and cafe for free,

but you’ll need a ticket

to look around the

impressive gardens and

beautiful house.

01

The pier and pavilion at Cromer are

well worth a wander, especially with an

ice cream. Make some time for the cute

streets and independent shops also.

05

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Walk the Norfolk Coast

Path into Sheringham

for epic beach views. Pick

up a crab sandwich from

Joyful West’s Shellfish

Bar and find a spot on the

sandy beach to enjoy.

04

Visit Blakeney for the iconic boat

trip out to see England’s largest grey

seal colony at Blakeney Point. Book well

in advance and pack your binoculars.

03

Thanks to a plethora

of coffee shops, souvenir

stalls and boutiques, Wells-

next-the-Sea is a popular

stop. Enjoy the shallow

waters – great for crabbing

(known as ‘gillying’ here).

02

96

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

SHOPPING | BEACHES | DAY TRIP

16

Visitors flock to Rye for

boutique shopping, ye olde

cobbled streets and pretty village

scenes with half-timbered houses.

It’s easy to venture over to

Hastings from here to enjoy the

sprawling beach, independent

shops and colourful seaside vibes.

VINTAGE

Shopping

BBA

PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

Ħ Hastings Pier

Once crowned Pier of the

Year, Hastings Pier is a great

spot to sit and relax in one of

the restaurants overlooking

the town and sea. Take stock

of your new purchases with

a sundowner cocktail – the

perfect way to end the day.

JO

JONES/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

ALLA

TSYGANOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

97

Above left Mermaid Inn

Above Hastings Pier

Left Forget Me Not, Church Sq

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

Find the Independent Shops

Rye has some of the coolest boutique

shopping on the southeast coast. Just aim

for High St, Market St and Lion St to enjoy

the diverse offerings. Pop into lifestyle

shop Sailors for its seashell-infused soaps,

locally made artisan chocolate and oyster-

shell candles. Rye Pottery sells decorative

ceramics and is best known for its hand-

painted animals – pick up a unique piece while

you’re here! To find something really special,

check out Ethel Loves Me or Forget Me

Not – both are great spots for gifts. Grammar

School Records and the Other Record Shop

(Rye’s second record shop) both sell new

and secondhand vinyl. Rae is a top spot for

ethical brands and handmade natural beauty

products, and Hunter Jones Vintage is great

for homewares and vintage cookware.

How to

Getting here/around

Both Rye and Hastings

are easy to visit by train

or car, and are perfectly

walkable.

When to go A winter

visit makes it more

difficult to traverse

the hills of Rye, and

Hastings beach will

be super-breezy. Go in

spring or autumn for

crisp, sunny days.

Best photo

opportunity Visit Rye

early for the best photo

ops. Make a beeline for

Mermaid St to snap

a photo outside the

iconic Mermaid Inn.

98

Shopping with a Conscience

For secondhand goods wander down the

picturesque streets to Strand Quay and you’ll

find antique emporiums and dealers aplenty.

Pop into Strand Quay Interiors to pick up a

one-of-a-kind preloved piece for your home.

Go on a treasure hunt at Halcyon Days or

Wishbarn Antiques to find the gems among

their rustic furniture. For quality vintage

clothes have a rummage at Tallulah & Rose.

If you’re after some zero-waste products, then

Rye Health Store is the wholefoods shop for

you, while the best charity shops are found in

Cinque Ports St. It’s easy to walk around Rye,

and you’ll see some beautiful houses and views

as you go. Take your time, maybe pop into a little

cafe – we recommend the brunch menu at the

Fig or a brew at the Apothecary Coffee House.

Bohemian Shopping

Just 16 minutes away by train (30 minutes

by car) you’ll find Hastings. It’s a different

ĩ

Where the

Locals Drink

The most spectacular thing

about Rye is the location, set

back from the sea but still

close enough to walk to two

different beaches as well as

the rolling Wealds, depending

on the mood or weather. A

country walk followed by a

beer is a must: my go-to is the

Waterworks, a friendly micro-

pub on Cinque Port St with

a fantastic selection of local

brews. When the weather’s

moody I’ll head to the Ypres

for another warm welcome.

It’s also worth checking out

the Grape Vine, a wine and

cocktail bar just off the high

street on Conduit Hill, with live

jazz five nights a week.

n By Timberlina,

ecofriendly bearded

drag lady, Rye

@mstimberlina

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School

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The Other

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Hunter

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Vintage

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Health

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Sailors

Tallulah

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Hastings

(12mi)

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BRIANSCANTLEBURY/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

Left Waterworks micro-pub

Below AG Hendy’s home store

99

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

vibe here to coy, cool Rye. In your face and edgy,

Hastings High St is home to some bohemian,

quirky shops in between the muddle of colourful

buildings. Look out for the old signages and

detailed shop facades above modern stores –

a nostalgic nod to the Hastings of the past.

Highlights include AG Hendy’s and its 1920s

shopfront. Venture in and you’ll find vintage

kitchenware, oddities and other quirky pieces.

Golden Hands Gift Shop is a must for anyone

into their incense with a side of witchcraft. Made

in Hastings stocks homemade crafted gifts

and homeware from talented makers in and

around town.

On George St you’ll find Butler’s Emporium.

Way back in 1832 it was a hardware shop –

today it offers an eclectic mix of homeware,

haberdashery, clothing and jewellery, displayed

with the original fixtures. Pop into Wow and

Flutter for records, books and art, and take a look

at the vintage homeware, reworked furniture and

locally grown plants at Little Treasures.

JOYCE

NELSON/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

CHRISATPPS/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

100

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

How to

Getting here Main train

stations include Banbury,

Bath, Cheltenham,

Gloucester, Kemble,

Moreton-in-Marsh,

Stroud, Charlbury,

Kingham and Oxford.

Visit direct from London,

Birmingham and

Manchester.

Getting around Taxis

and local bus services are

available, or join a small

group tour.

Top tip The Cotswolds

Discoverer One Day Pass

can be cost effective

depending on your route.

It also gives you access to

certain Cotswolds trains,

buses and coaches.

The Cotswolds

BY TRAIN

TRAIN | COUNTRYSIDE | RELAXATION

17

Travel around the Cotswolds by train and you’ll avoid the congested roads

and difficult parking. Instead you can enjoy the rolling hills, honey-coloured

stone and idyllic views from the comfort of your train seat. There are a few well-

placed train stations in the Cotswolds – you just need to know where to find

them and how to connect them together.

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Kemble

Cirencester

Stroud

Fairford

Northleach

Tewkesbury

Burford

Moreton- in-Marsh

Stow-on- the-Wold

Kingham

Cheltenham

Gloucester

Woodchester

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101

Left Market day, Moreton-in-Marsh

Below Stroud

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

Visit market towns and cute villages In the north of the

Cotswolds you’ll find Moreton-in-Marsh, one of the most

popular market towns to wander around. Come on a Tuesday

for the street market – the pretty shops, great cafes, pubs and

restaurants are open all week. From here you can easily travel

by train to Kingham – a peaceful village with great walks and

cycle routes. Book in for a meal at the legendary Wild Rabbit

Restaurant to make the most of your trip. The train, originating

in London, goes on to Charlbury, Kingham and Oxford from here.

Go on a walking foodie tour A bustling little town in the

Cotswolds, Stroud is easily reachable by train. There’s a lovely

walk to Woodchester here, or you can wander along the

Stroudwater Canal. The Cotswold Way National Trail runs

through here too. On a Saturday the farmers market makes

for a great foodie pit stop, or you can visit Woodruffs Organic

Cafe or the Lavender Bakehouse for a pastry. Check out the

Shambles with its crafts, collectables and vintage stalls as well.

Visit the capital of the Cotswolds From Stroud you can

visit the pretty village of Kemble on the train line. Many

people use it as a base to get to the bustling Cotswolds town

of Cirencester, just 4 miles away and reachable by taxi or

bus. There’s some great shopping in Cirencester on the high

street and in the boutique shops. There’s a beautiful park and

amphitheatre as well. Stonehouse and Gloucester stations are

also on this train line.

Ŧ

Festivals in the

Cotswolds

The Tewkesbury,

Cheltenham, Gloucester

and Dursley line between

Birmingham and Bristol

offers more opportunities

to enjoy different

Cotswolds villages by

train. Check out the dates

for these great festivals in

the area: the Tewkesbury

Medieval Festival,

Cheltenham Literature

Festival, Barn on the

Farm in Gloucester and

Nibley Festival. The Big

Feastival also makes for

a great day out. Travel by

train for an easier, more

ecofriendly way to explore

the great festivals the

Cotswolds has to offer.

102

HELEN

HOTSON/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

HIKE

the White Cliffs

WALKING | COASTLINE | WILDLIFE

Hike this stunning stretch of England’s coastline through the South Downs

National Park. Enjoy the white cliffs of Beachy Head in the distance and the

views down over the beaches. You’re aiming for the iconic lighthouse via a much-

deserved drink at a clifftop pub.

18

Trip Notes

Getting here/around Seaford and Eastbourne have train stations – catch the

12X Coaster bus in-between. Cyclists are welcome. There’s limited parking in

Seaford, town-centre parking in Eastbourne and two National Trust car parks

at Birling Gap.

When to go Summer is busiest. Take care in winter – the ground can get

slippery and muddy.

Difficulty The coastal trail from Seaford to Eastbourne is around 14 miles. It’s

well signposted – prepare for rolling ascents and descents.

ĩ

A Celebratory

Pint

After the strenuous ups

and downs of walking

the Seven Sisters,

the relief of pottering

down into Eastbourne

can only be matched

by the feeling of that

first pint in a beer

garden. Just around the

corner from the foot of

Beachy Head are the

quintessentially British

pubs the Pilot Inn and

the Ship Inn.

n By Jack

Brownell,

Destination

Manager,

Eastbourne

@VisitEastbourne

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FROM LEFT: ALEX MANDERS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

PXL.STORE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The coastal hamlet

of Birling Gap (pictured

p102) offers the best

views of the cliffs, plus a

National Trust gift shop

and cafe. There’s also

a staircase down to the

pebble beach.

01

Carry on downhill into the

seaside resort of Eastbourne.

Have a mooch around the

pier, enjoy the bandstand and

down a drink in one of the

many seafront bars.

05

Beachy Head is England’s

tallest chalk cliff (162m). Pop

into the Beachy Head Pub for

a pint to enjoy the vista.

04

Snap a photo of the iconic

Beachy Head Lighthouse but stay

away from the erosion. Look back

to admire the Seven Sisters Cliffs.

03

Follow the South Downs Way signs

to the Belle Tout Lighthouse. It’s

now a hotel, with incredible views.

02

PAUL

LAWRENSON

(KENT)/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

JIM

COOK/GETTY

IMAGES

©

104

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

How to

Getting here/around

It’s easiest if you have

a car (note, you don’t

drive around the park

yourself). You can also

cycle here, or take the

train to Sandling station

then bus 10, which

drops you 800m east of

the park.

When to go Avoid school

holidays. Visit in spring to

see the babies.

Top tip If it rains for more

than two hours when you

visit, you can come again

for free within 30 days!

On Safari in

ENGLAND

ANIMALS | FAMILY | WILDLIFE

19

See rare and endangered animals at the Port Lympne Hotel & Reserve

in Kent. Drive through the reserve in a safari vehicle to spot some of the 900

animals across 75 species, before getting up close with your favourites on an

informative animal experience. All profits go back into the conservation charity

and help animals around the world.

PAULA

FRENCH/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

105

Far left Safari jeep

Below Male western lowland gorilla

Above Port Lympne Hotel

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

Explore the grounds With woodland walks, spacious

paddocks and more than 5 hectares of landscaped gardens,

there’s a lot to cover. You can join in with animal talks and

there’s also a (replica!) anatomically correct dinosaur park,

where you can dig for fossils.

See the animals Standard tickets include a truck safari

around the grounds to see big cats, meerkats, black rhinos,

monkeys, zebras and wildebeest wandering the 240-hectare

Kent savannah. Follow the wooded pathways of the Primate

Trail to experience the Planet of the Apes – check the feeding

times in advance for an incredible show. Don’t miss the South

American Experience, where you’ll get to see Brazilian tapirs,

capybaras and vicuñas.

Get closer Sign up for an animal encounter to get close to the

gorillas, or to see the critically endangered Rothschild giraffes.

You can also join a lion or black-rhino encounter. There are lots

of opportunities to have time with the animals, and learn more

about your favourite ones and how Port Lympne is helping

towards their conservation. If you want to spend longer

at Port Lympne there are some great options for staying

overnight, including the Giraffe Lodge and the Lion Lodge.

Time to eat Overlooking the spectacled bear enclosure, Bear

Lodge serves great burgers, or you can pick up a wood-fired

pizza at Babydoll’s. There’s also the delightful Garden Room,

serving locally sourced fare and afternoon tea.

X Meet the Gorillas

Port Lympne Hotel &

Reserve is home to 20

western lowland gorillas

and, in conjunction with

the Aspinall Foundation,

helps to protect, conserve

and release this majestic

species into the wild

in Congo and Gabon.

Our Meet the Gorillas

experience at the reserve

provides visitors with a

wonderful opportunity

to meet all three gorilla

groups that we care for,

including our family group

with our youngsters,

as well as our bachelor

groups of silverback

gorillas. It gives guests a

chance to go behind the

scenes with our dedicated

keepers to find out

everything about caring

for these magnificent

beasts.

n By Naomi

Garton, Animal

Director’s

Assistant, Port

Lympne Hotel & Reserve,

Kent @portlympnepark

Forest of Dean

CONNECT

IMAGES

-

CURATED/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

ŗ The Great Outdoors

Epping Forest

Epping Forest, Essex, is a glorious 9.2-sq-mile

ancient woodland, which acts as a beautiful

border between London and Essex. Here you

can go mountain biking, trail hiking or on a

high-rope adventure.

Cambridge University Botanic Garden

With more than 8000 plant species over 16

hectares, these gardens in Cambridgeshire

are a colourful spectacle year-round. Explore

the ‘Bee Borders’ to see honey bees buzzing

around their favourite flowers.

Forest of Dean

Mountain-bike trails, watersports on the

River Wye and some great picnic spots

make this a great day out in Gloucestershire.

There’s also the added excitement of being

right on the England and Wales border.

Wilderness Wood

This family-run working woodland in East

Sussex is the perfect introduction to the day-

to-day importance of wood. There are miles of

paths to explore, a playground, activities for

all ages and wildlife galore.

g Stately Homes & Gardens

Blenheim Palace

Visit this UNESCO-listed palace in

Oxfordshire to explore the grand stately

rooms, the botanic gardens and to walk

the trails. There’s also a ‘Walk in Churchill’s

Footsteps’ exhibit, a large maze and a

miniature train.

Audley End House & Gardens

One of England’s grandest mansions, this

17th-century country house in Essex has

a library, a service wing, a great hall and

state apartments to explore. There are also

delightful gardens and lots of parkland.

Petworth House & Park

Petworth, West Sussex, has one of the best art

exhibitions in the country, including works by

Reynolds, Titian and Van Dyck. The interiors

are stunning and there’s a deer park on the

280 hectares of land.

Knole House

This stately Kent home is over 500 years old.

It was gifted to the National Trust for visitors

to enjoy the Jacobean interiors and relax in

the beautiful gardens.

a Prayer & Worship

Shah Jahan Mosque

England’s first purpose-built mosque, in Surrey,

is now the only Grade I–listed one in the

country. Visit to learn more about its history

dating back to 1889 and to join a guided tour.

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

106

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND REVIEWS

Central Mosque

Located in Cambridgeshire, this is Europe’s first

ecofriendly mosque. Made from sustainably

sourced materials in 2019, it’s specially

designed to minimise carbon emissions, and

there’s even a botanical garden inside.

Gloucester Cathedral

Visit this huge Gloucestershire cathedral for

its glorious fan-vaulted roof. The stained-

glass windows are historically significant

as well, and date back to 1350. You may

recognise it from the Harry Potter films.

Norwich Cathedral

England’s most complete Norman cathedral,

in Norfolk, is open to all faiths for worship. Go

on a tour, check for special events and make

the most of the on-site cafe.

Middle Street Synagogue

Opened in 1875 for the expanding Jewish

community at the seaside resort, this

Brighton synagogue was built to impress.

Look out for special events to see more of the

Grade II–listed building.

Faizan E Madina Mosque

This Cambridgeshire mosque is one of the

largest in Western Europe, able to accommo-

date around 3000 worshippers at a time. Book

ahead for a tour of this impressive building.

Ely Cathedral

Look up to see the star attraction here: the

ceiling (32m high at the nave) not only looks

incredible, but also tells the story of Jesus’

ancestry. There are impressive wood carvings

throughout. In Cambridgeshire.

Siri Guru Nanak Darbar Gurdwara

Enjoy the hand-crafted marble, five elaborate

domes, colourful interior tiling and stained-

glass windows of this temple in Kent. Join

a tour to see the meeting halls, educational

rooms and library.

ţ Buckets & Spades

West Wittering Beach

Expect white sands, epic dunes to run over and

a long, shallow seashore. In West Sussex, this is

a great place for spotting wildlife – look up for

skylarks and over to the mudflats for seals.

Camber Sands

This East Sussex beach stretches for

nearly 5 miles, so there’s plenty of room

for all. It’s an excellent spot for windsurfers

and kitesurfers in the breeze, and for

paddleboarders when it’s calm.

Viking Bay Beach

Sandy bays meet surf schools in this glorious

beach cove in Kent. Everything’s here for

a nostalgic English seaside trip, including

fishers’ cottages, arcades and buckets and

spades.

Mersea Island

Soak up the sun, stay in a beach hut, eat

shellfish or just sit by the water overlooking

the seashore for the perfect relaxing day on

this island in Kent.

Central Mosque, Cambridge

EDWARD

CRAWFORD/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

SOUTHEAST

ENGLAND REVIEWS

107

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND

u Banksy’s Bristol (p114)

u King Arthur’s

England (p116)

u Narrow-Boat

Drifting (p118)

u Relaxation, Romans

& Regency (p120)

u Jurassic Thrills (p122)

u Historic Icons (p126)

u Solent Sail Days (p128)

u Island Escape (p130)

u Coastal Trails (p132)

u Go Wild on

Dartmoor (p136)

u Cornwall by Rail (p138)

u Scilly Food-

Hopping (p140)

u Listings (p142)

#

#

#

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Isles of

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A T L A N T I C

O C E A N

Watergate

Bay

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Bay

Barnstaple

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Quest after the King Arthur

legends at Tintagel (p117)

ń 1hr from Truro

England’s enchanting southwest calls to both

adventurous spirits and zen seekers, with epic coastal

trails, quirky cities and beaches for every vibe. Get

wild with watersports, drift along peaceful rivers and

lose yourself amid landscapes that echo with legends.

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND

Trip Builder

Catch the sleeper train to the

beach towns of Cornwall (p138)

ŉ 8hrs from London

Dine on sumptuous seafood

in the Scilly Isles (p140)

ň 3hrs from Penzance

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

Hike the South West Coast Path

from Minehead to Poole (p132)

ŉ/Ň 2hrs from Exeter

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FROM LEFT: PAOLO TROVO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

BORIS STROUJKO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

ALEXEY FEDORENKO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

DAVE SMITH 1965/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PREVIOUS SPREAD: IAN WOOLCOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Spot fossils and ride waves on

the Jurassic Coast (p122)

ŉ 3hrs from London

Wild camp among the

mysterious landscapes

of Dartmoor (p136)

ń 30mins from Exeter

Marvel at the English

icon Stonehenge (p126)

ŉ/Ň 1hr 20mins from

Southampton

Seek out Banksy murals

in edgy Bristol (p114)

ŉ 1½hrs from London

Bike your way around the

Isle of Wight (p130)

ň 10mins from Portsmouth

Soak up the healing

waters of Bath (p120)

ŉ 15mins from Bristol

ALLAN

BAXTER/GETTY

IMAGES

©

112

Practicalities

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND FIND

YOUR

FEET

HOW MUCH

FOR A

GETTING AROUND

WHEN TO GO

Pint of cider

£5

Takeaway fish

and chips

£12

Cream tea

£7

Car Driving offers the most

freedom and is the easiest way to

reach more rural areas, but peak

season often sees heavy traffic

around tourist hot spots. Parking

can be expensive in town centres

and is at a premium in resorts

during summer: make use of

‘park and ride’ car parks on the

outskirts to save money.

ARRIVING

Air Southampton Airport, Bristol Airport

(pictured), Exeter Airport and Cornwall Airport

Newquay provide links with the UK and some

international destinations.

Train Direct trains link Bristol with London

\(1½ hours) and Birmingham (1½ hours). For the

south coast, trains run from LondonWaterloo to

Southampton (1¾ hours), Bournemouth (2¼ hours),

Weymouth (three hours) and Exeter (3½ hours).

Trains from London Paddington call at Plymouth

(3¼ hours) en route to Penzance (5¼ hours).

Train Frequent mainline services

run between cities and towns,

with branch lines connecting to

smaller towns and coastal areas.

Not always cost-effective.

Bus Services are good in towns

and cities, while rural spots have

fewer options. Popular areas often

have seasonal tourist bus routes

connecting the main attractions

and towns.

JAN–MAR

Colder weather and some

seasonal closures, but better

surf.

JUL–SEP

Peak season, (usually)

sunniest, with more events,

crowds and higher prices.

APR–JUN

Warmer weather, wildflowers

and more wildlife.

OCT–DEC

Good for city breaks, windy

walks and cosy country pubs.

TOP:

DRONG/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

BOTTOM:

NIGEL

JARVIS/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

113

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND FIND

YOUR

FEET

WHERE TO STAY

The diverse southwest has accommodation to suit all travellers, from

campsites and hostels to B&Bs and spa hotels. Book well in advance for

weekends and holidays.

EATING & DRINKING

Cornish pasties (pictured top right) are an iconic snack: beef, swede,

potatoes and onions encased in a D-shaped pastry crimped on one

side. The southwest’s numerous fishing ports mean delicious seafood,

from takeaway fish and chips to celebrity-chef flagships. Devon and

Cornwall argue over who started it, but the tradition of cream tea

(scones with jam, clotted cream and a pot of tea) permeates the

region. For drinks, try traditional West Country cider and its stronger

cousin, scrumpy, or seek out local craft breweries and distilleries.

Best historic teashop Sally Lunn’s (pictured bottom right, p120)

Must-try sustainable seafood Rockfish (p143)

MONEY

Most business operators, including buses, take bank

cards, but carry some loose change for rural car

parks and beach kiosks. Avoid travelling over British

school holidays if possible, especially during Easter

and summer, when prices surge in seaside towns.

HERITAGE MEMBERSHIPS

National Trust and English Her-

itage memberships include free

entry and parking at hundreds of

attractions. Both offer tempo-

rary memberships for overseas

visitors.

CONNECT & FIND YOUR WAY

Wi-fi Most accommodation, cafes

and pubs have wi-fi, although

it’s not always reliable. Overseas

visitors can buy local SIM cards

in newsagents and top up with a

prepaid data package.

Navigation Apps are generally

reliable, but signal can be patchy

in rural areas. Download maps

before travelling in case you lose

connection.

Place

Pro/Con

Bristol

Good base for exploring Somerset and

beyond. Options for all budgets, but the centre

can be busy.

Weymouth

Retro seaside resort with great Jurassic Coast

connections.

Princetown Central Dartmoor village with hostels,

campsites and B&Bs. Well connected, though

the prison might put some off.

Salcombe

Devon’s sailing capital, with slightly higher-end

offerings.

Falmouth

Vibrant coast town with a range of options.

Newquay

Surf town with lively nightlife. Can be noisy.

114

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

Banksy’s

BRISTOL

CITY | CULTURE | GRAFFITI

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Bristol, Banksy’s hometown,

pulses with things that usually skirt

the fringes of society. Protest, rave and

graffiti cultures have all shaped the city

and continue to do so, as evidenced by

the Black Lives Matter protests of recent

years. Hit the streets of the southwest’s

coolest city to immerse yourself in a

living gallery punctuated with trendy

cafes, vegan food and independent shops.

Banksy and Bristol Now a

world-famous artist selling

for record-breaking sums,

satirical stencilist Banksy

started out as a graffiti writer

at Bristol’s now infamous

Barton Hill Youth Club in the

mid-1980s. The club’s legal

wall gave young artists like

Banksy, Inkie and Cheo a place

to develop the movement

that had originated with

‘godfather of Bristol street

art’3D (aka Massive Attack

frontman Robert Del Naja),

a pioneer of stencil graffiti.

Take a Where the Wall tour to

spot iconic Banksys, including

Girl with a Pierced Eardrum

(Hanover Pl), Well Hung Lover

(Park St), Paint Pot Angel

(Bristol Museum & Art Gallery)

and Mild Mild West (Stokes

Croft). Two more pieces are

on display at the unmissable

local-history museum

M Shed.

City canvas For street art

beyond Banksy, head to the

How to

Getting here Fly into Bristol Airport, or take

the train from London Paddington (1¾ hours). If

driving, make use of the Park and Ride car parks to

avoid city-centre traffic.

When to go All year round for street art.

Stay at The mural-covered Full Moon and Attic

Bar’s hostel for a taste of Bristol’s party scene.

Immerse yourself At the interactive ‘amazement

park’ art experience Wake the Tiger.

115

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

Above M Shed

NIGEL

JARVIS/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

ť

More Bristol

Street Artists

It’s not all about Banksy!

Seek out work by these

current key players in

Bristol’s art scene.

Inkie (@inkiegraffiti) Part of

the original Barton Hill crew,

now a massive name in Bristol

street art.

Ms Hazard (@hazard0ne)

Recognised as one of the UK’s

top female graffiti artists.

Jody (@jody_artist) Began

painting at Barton Hill, now

known for photorealistic

female portraits.

Bex Glover (@bexgloverart)

Known for her abstract,

nature-inspired work.

Andy Council (@andycouncil)

Creates beasts made up of

architectural landmarks.

Lucas Antics (@lucas_

antics) Colourful muralist

recently commissioned to

create a trail for Aardman.

n By John

Nation, Where the

Wall tour guide

@johnnation

area around Quay St and the

gritty, constantly changing

Stokes Croft neighbourhood.

The fantastic Where the Wall

guided tours are a must,

offering a deep dive into the

city’s transient art culture

and how it shaped the UK’s

urban art scene. Afterwards,

get hands-on at one of its

Introduction to Stencil Art

sessions to create the ultimate

street-art souvenir. South of

the Avon, Bedminster hosts

Upfest, an annual street-art

festival with live painting

across a weekend in May, and

murals commissioned by local

and international artists that

stay up all year.

MIKROMAN6/GETTY

IMAGES

©

116

Left King Arthur’s Round Table

Centre Gallos, Tintagel (sculptor:

Rubin Eynon)

Below A 14th-century replica of the

Round Table, Winchester Great Hall

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND ESSAY

King

Arthur’s

England

THE TRUTH BEHIND

BRITAIN’S LEGENDARY

KING

Myth or man, the

legend of King

Arthur is an intrinsic

part of British

history, as popular

today as it was in

medieval times.

Landscapes and

locations claiming

a connection to the

‘once and future

king’ can be found

throughout southwest

England, Wales and

beyond. But did

Arthur truly exist?

Once & Future King

It’s a story we all know. A young boy pulls a sword from

a stone, meets the wizard Merlin, becomes king and

creates the Knights of the Round Table. In some versions,

he is given the sword Excalibur by the Lady of the Lake.

In others, he goes on to quest for the Holy Grail. From

Pre-Raphaelite paintings to Hollywood, the legend of King

Arthur has been retold for centuries.

But who was he? Some suggest Arthur was a warrior

king who led the Britons against Saxon invaders. Others

claim the legend is based on the 5th-century warlord

Ambrosius Aurelianus, a Romano-Briton thought to

have been nicknamed ‘the Bear’ (artos in Celtic). Less

romantically, he may be nothing more than a medieval

work of fiction.

Myth or Truth?

The quest to separate fact from myth in the Arthurian

legends is nigh on impossible. If he existed, King Arthur

ruled around the 5th century, during a period often called

the Dark Ages because such limited records exist to shine

a light on them. The earliest references to an ‘Arthur’

are from documents written several centuries after his

supposed rule, while the first full account of his life – and

the main source for all stories that followed – appeared

in Geoffrey of Monmouth’s History of the Kings of Britain

(1136). Monmouth claimed this was based on an ancient

book, but modern historians believe his Arthur story may

have been an amalgamation of tales and characters from

folklore, chronicles and poems.

DAVID

WHIDBORNE/SHUTTERSTOCK

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GARY

PERKIN/SHUTTERSTOCK

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117

Monmouth’s ‘history’

launched an Arthur

mania that heavily

influenced medieval

civilisation, particularly

the ideals of chivalry.

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND ESSAY

Medieval Mania

Regardless, Monmouth’s ‘history’ launched an Arthur mania

that heavily influenced medieval civilisation, particularly the

ideals of chivalry. In 1233, Richard, Earl of Cornwall, built a castle

on the rocky headland of

Tintagel – where Monmouth

claimed Arthur was

conceived – presumably

inspired to do so by legend

alone, as the site was of

no military value. Not long

afterwards, his nephew King

Edward I had a replica Round

Table built at Winchester

Castle. Later stories, particularly Thomas Malory’s Le Morte

d’Arthur (1485) and Alfred Tennyson’s Idylls of the King (1859–

85), built upon the Arthurian legends, and later still, Hollywood,

Disney and even Monty Python added their own versions.

A Lasting Legacy

Arthur is something of an archetype. According to legend,

the king lies in wait, ready to return and defend the land when

it’s in peril, similar to other mythical figures such as Ireland’s

Fionn mac Cumhaill. Then there’s his backstory: a young boy

of unremarkable origins discovers he is destined for greatness,

receives an important artefact and is guided on a quest by a

mentor. This well-used storytelling trope crops up time and

again, in narratives as diverse as The Lord of the Rings and

Star Wars. In many ways, King Arthur has come again: his

legacy so permeates Britain that the unanswerable question

of his existence hardly seems to matter.

e Live the Legend

Tintagel Site of King Arthur’s

conception, home to a 13th-

century castle inspired by the

legend.

Dozmary Pool Said to be

where the Lady of the Lake

gave Arthur the sword

Excalibur (Wales also claims

several Excalibur lakes).

Round Table, Winchester

Great Hall A 14th-century

replica of Arthur’s Round

Table, with a Tudor rose added

by Henry VIII.

Cadbury Castle Iron Age

hillfort and the reputed

location of Camelot.

GlastonburyAbbey Arthur’s

alleged tomb was discovered

here in 1191. Nearby

Glastonbury Tor is held to be

the legendary Isle of Avalon,

where the dying king was

taken for healing.

1000

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NIGEL

JARVIS/SHUTTERSTOCK

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118

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

How to

Getting here Direct

trains run from London

Paddington to Bath

(1½ hours).

When to go Most compa-

nies offer boat hire from

March to October, though

some operate year-round.

Local eats In Somerset,

sample local cider

and visit Cheddar, the

birthplace of Britain’s

favourite cheese.

Detour The nearby

Mendip Hills Area of

Outstanding Natural

Beauty (AONB) makes a

blissful day trip from the

canal, with idyllic English

countryside and spectac-

ular limestone gorges.

Narrow-Boat

DRIFTING

NATURE | BOATING | HISTORY

21

Slow down and enjoy a simpler style of life, cruising on a traditional

narrow boat along the Kennet & Avon Canal through the postcard-worthy

scenery of Somerset and Wiltshire. Tackle locks, traverse impressive aqueducts,

stop off to explore historic towns and moor up at canalside pubs on a leisurely

paced adventure in an all-too-often overlooked corner of southwest England.

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Left Narrow boat on the Kennet &

Avon Canal

Below Caen Hill Flight

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

River adventures Stretching 87 miles from London to the

Bristol Channel, the Kennet & Avon Canal (K&A) is made up

of three historic waterways dating back to the 18th century.

Today, it forms part of the multifaceted Great West Way

(greatwestway.co.uk) touring route, an ideal way to discover

the highlights of the region.

Cruising the canal Hire a narrow boat at one of several

companies along the canal and set off on an old-fashioned

adventure. A day or weekend hire offers a nice taster, but

a week offers a chance to go further. The week-long return

trip between historic Bath and the charming market town of

Devizes is one of the loveliest, crossing several aqueducts and

passing through the beautiful scenery of the wooded Bath

Valley. Those wanting to explore under their own steam will

also find plenty of kayaking spots on the K&A.

Canal engineering Tackling the locks that dot the canal

is part of the charm of a narrow-boat holiday. The most

impressive (and arduous) on the K&A is the Caen Hill Flight,

one of the country’s longest continuous flights of locks, with

29 of them rising 72m over 2 miles. Crossing the 100m-long

Avoncliff Aqueduct over the River Avon is another impressive

moment. Near Bradford-on-Avon, stop off at the Claverton

Pumping Station, a 200-year-old example of Georgian canal

technology.

ĩ

Local Watering

Holes

Moor up at a canalside pub

for local food or a pint of

cider. These spots are the

best of the bunch:

Black Horse, Devizes

Classic red-brick pub at the

top of the Caen Hill Flight.

The Barge, Seend Cosy

inn with log fires and beers

from Wiltshire-based

Wadworth.

Barge Inn, Bradford-

on-Avon Modern pub

overlooking the lock.

Cross Guns, Avoncliff This

16th-century pub has views

of the aqueduct.

The George, Bathampton

Ivy-clad Grade II–listed

pub – said to be haunted!

The Cunning Man,

Burghfield Bridge A

charming, thatched pub

on the River Kennet near

Reading.

n By Steve

Langley,

manager at Sally

Narrowboats,

Bradford-on-Avon Marina

@sally_narrowboats

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BathSpa Station

Sally

Lunn's

Roman

Baths

Thermae Bath Spa

Jane Austen Centre

No 1 Royal

Crescent

Assembly

Rooms

120

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

Relaxation, Romans

& REGENCY

SPAS | HISTORY | CULTURE

22

Plunge into the healing waters

of Britain’s only natural thermal spa

while enjoying dazzling rooftop views

of Bath’s UNESCO World Heritage city

centre. First founded by the ancient

Romans as a hub of spirituality and

relaxation, Bath was later transformed

into a fashionable spa resort by the

Georgians, who rebuilt the city centre

entirely using honey-coloured Bath

stone.

Romans Bath grew up

around the mineral-rich

thermal springs for which

the city is named. Founded

by the Romans in the 1st

century CE as a centre

of healing and relaxation,

Aquae Sulis (as it was then)

was home to an extensive

religious spa complex. Start

your visit by exploring these

Roman Baths, one of the

best-preserved ancient

Roman remains in the world.

Regency Later, in the 18th

century, those same hot

springs enticed Georgian

high society. Like the

Romans before them, they

‘took the waters’ at Bath

for their supposed healing

properties, and the formerly

small medieval city quickly

became one of the most

fashionable places to spend

the social season. Take a tour

(try Bath Insider Tours)

to discover the gold-beige

Palladian architecture the

Georgians created, or visit

How to

Getting here Direct trains to Bath from London

Paddington take 90 minutes. Regular buses

connect the city to nearby Bristol Airport.

When to go Spring blossoms set against the golden

Bath stone make this a particularly attractive

season. The thermal waters of Thermae are bliss

in winter.

How much Spa sessions start from £41.

Tea and cake Try a Bath Bun at Sally Lunn’s

tearoom, Bath’s oldest shop.

121

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

Above Grand Regency Promenade

CHIPPICS/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

ı

Jane Austen’s

Bath

Discover Regency-era Bath

through the eyes of one of

its most famous residents,

Pride and Prejudice author

Jane Austen.

StrictlyJane Austen (strict-

lyjaneausten.com) offers

expert-guided tours, while

the Jane Austen Centre,

near her former home,

provides a detailed look

at the writer’s life in Bath.

Promenade through Sydney

Gardens, one of Austen’s

favourite pastimes, or in-

dulge in afternoon tea at the

famous Pump Room, which

appears in two of her novels.

The Jane Austen Festival

(held every September) is a

10-day immersive Regency

experience, of which the

highlight is the costumed

Grand Regency Promenade.

the Assembly Rooms and

No 1 Royal Crescent for a

glimpse of life in Regency-era

Bath.

Relaxation Centuries on,

Bath’s healing waters are still

drawing visitors, who come to

indulge and unwind amid the

town’s Regency splendour.

Thermae Bath Spa is the

only natural thermal spa in

Britain, boasting six floors

of pools, treatment rooms

and spa facilities all fed

by the city’s hot springs.

The pièce de résistance is

the open-air rooftop pool,

where guests can unwind

in the 33.5°C waters while

enjoying panoramic views

of the city centre’s beautiful

architecture.

122

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

COAST | WATERSPORTS | HIKING

23

A geologist’s playground,

the fossil-ridden beaches,

towering cliffs and dramatic

rock formations of the Jurassic

Coast form a spectacular setting

for adventure. Tackle roller-

coaster cliff paths, paddle

around geological marvels and

soak up the salt spray with wild

watersports.

Jurassic

THRILLS

PITAMAHA/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

ĸ What Is It?

England’s only natural World

Heritage Site, the Jurassic

Coast runs from Exmouth

to Studland Bay. Formed

during the Mesozoic era (252

to 66 million years ago), the

coast’s rock layers provide

a complete visible record

of the Triassic, Jurassic and

Cretaceous periods.

WILLOW

DEMPSE/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

AVO

ILIC/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

123

Above left South West Coast Path

Above Rock layers

Left Fossils in Lyme Regis

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

Prehistoric Paths

With 95 miles of coastline to play with, all

of it covered by the well-maintained and

signposted South West Coast Path, the

Jurassic Coast is hiking heaven. You can walk

the whole coastline in around seven to 10

days, or choose from countless shorter trails.

Try the walk over the cliffs from Lyme Regis

to Charmouth, returning along the beach to

spot fossils at low tide. While there, visit Lyme

Regis Museum or Charmouth Heritage

Centre for fantastic collections of local finds.

For a challenge, the Golden Cap circular

walk climbs to the highest point of England’s

south coast, or there’s the strenuous trail

from Sidmouth’s red cliffs to Seaton and the

wildlife-rich Axe Valley. Most walks will take

you past a beach or two, so take swimwear

and cool off with a well-earned dip.

How to

Getting around Most

attractions are covered

by the Jurassic Coaster

and Purbeck Breezer

hop-on, hop-off bus

services.

When to go Spring

through to autumn has

the best weather and

wildlife; the surf season

is October to April.

Beach reads

Fictionalised version of

Dorset palaeontologist

Mary Anning’s

story Remarkable

Creatures (Tracy

Chevalier; 2009) and

locally set smuggling

swashbuckler Moonfleet

(J Meade Falkner; 1898).

Information & safety

updates Check

jurassiccoast.org.

124

Pick up a Paddle

The Jurassic Coast’s iconic sights are best

explored from the water. Join a tour (with

Lulworth Outdoors) to kayak through the

towering 60m-high limestone arch of Durdle

Door. From Studland’s South and Middle

Beaches, you can paddle out to the chalk

stacks of Old Harry Rocks (rent from Fore/

Adventure); keep an eye out for seals, or

bring a snorkel to spot the seahorses nesting

in the bay. The red-hued sandstone stacks of

Ladram Bay sit within relatively calm waters,

making this an ideal spot for beginners (rent

from Ladram Bay Holiday Park).

Set Sail

Hop on board a rigid inflatable boat (RIB) for a

fast-paced tour of the Jurassic Coast. Careen

over the waves at speeds of up to 30mph,

spotting dolphins, seals, seabirds and other

wildlife as you go. Just be ready to get wet!

Award-winning Weymouth Bay RIB Charter

ė Swim Spots

Weymouth Classic seaside

town with golden sands,

donkey rides and one of

Britain’s last beachside

Punch and Judy shows.

Seaton Ride the vintage

Seaton Tramway through

the Axe Valley before a

beach day in this Victorian-

era resort.

Studland White sand dunes

backed by a biodiverse

nature reserve.

Dancing Ledge Tidal pool

blasted into a rocky shelf at

a cliffside quarry.

Kimmeridge Bay The

geometric rock stacks

here teem with rock pools

at low tide, while the bay’s

clear waters are ideal for

snorkelling.

Worbarrow Bay A quiet

beach reached by walking

from the abandoned village

of Tyneham.

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Left Punch and Judy show, Weymouth

Below Kayaking, Durdle Door

125

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

runs tours as far as Durdle Door, exploring the

caves and cliffs around some of the top landmarks

along this stretch. To visit the western end of the

coast, Lyme Bay RIB Charter offers trips from

the harbour at West Bay, known for its towering

orange cliffs.

Jurassic Adventures

Climb, scramble, slide and jump your way along

the natural adventure playground of the Jurassic

Coast with an adrenaline-pumping coasteering

session. Try it in the geologically marvellous

Lulworth Cove (with Lulworth Outdoors),

around the caves, ledges and abandoned

quarries of Portland Bill (with Adventure4All),

or on the rugged cliffs and rock ledges of the

Isle of Purbeck (with Jurassic Watersports).

Purbeck’s quarries, such as Winspit and Dancing

Ledge, are also popular climbing spots, as is the

Isle of Portland, while a tour of Beer Quarry

Caves offers an insight into the history of the

region’s stone quarries. Watersports like sailing,

windsurfing, kitesurfing and jet-skiing can be

tried all along the coast; several companies in

the sheltered Portland Harbour offer lessons for

beginners.

01 Stonehenge

Possibly the most

famous landmark

in England, this

5000-year-old

monument remains an

enduring and intriguing

mystery.

02 St Michael’s

Mount

A tidal island topped

with a Norman castle

in Cornwall’s Mount’s

Bay, supposedly where

a legendary giant once

lived.

03 Salisbury

Cathedral

Home to Britain’s tallest

church spire and the

best preserved of the

four surviving Magna

Carta documents

from 1215.

04 Clifton

Suspension Bridge

A true feat of Victorian

engineering, Isambard

Kingdom Brunel’s iconic

bridge spans 214m

across the Avon Gorge

in Bristol.

05 Maiden Castle

One of the largest Iron

Age hillforts in Europe

and part of the ancient

landscape of the South

Dorset Ridgeway.

06 Roman Baths

The remarkably well-

preserved remains of an

ancient Roman religious

spa complex in Bath’s

beautiful city centre.

07 Corfe Castle

This 1000-year-old

hilltop castle on Dorset’s

01

05

03

02

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04

Historic

ICONS

126

Isle of Purbeck was

destroyed during the

English Civil War in 1645.

08 Highclere

Castle

Just like in Downton

Abbey, which was filmed

here, this 17th-century

palace was converted

into a hospital for

soldiers during WWI.

09 HMS Victory

Lord Nelson’s flagship

at the Battle of Trafalgar

in 1805, now sitting in

Portsmouth Historic

Dockyard.

10 Avebury Henge

Not as famous as

Stonehenge, but much

more extensive, this

neolithic henge is home

to Britain’s largest stone

circle.

11 Cerne Giant

This rather brazen

55m-tall hill figure near

Cerne Abbas is thought

to be late Saxon,

though its origins are

unconfirmed.

01 ANDREW ROLAND/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 02 TRAVELLIGHT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 03 RON ELLIS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 04 CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 05 SKYSCAN

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128

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

How to

Getting here Southamp-

ton Airport is 10 minutes

from the city centre

by train. Direct trains

connect London with

Southampton (1¾ hours)

and Portsmouth Harbour

(one hour).

When to go Sailing season

(March to November).

Diary dates The Isle of

Wight’s world-famous

sailing regatta, Cowes

Week, is in August.

Southampton Boat Show,

Britain’s biggest boating

festival, is in September.

Beach days Head to West

Wittering, near Chiches-

ter, for pale golden sand

dunes.

Solent Sail

DAYS

BOATING | HISTORY | WATERSPORTS

24

Discover the rich maritime history and world-class watersports of the

Solent, one of the UK’s top sailing areas. Skirting the New Forest’s heaths and

woodlands on one side, and two of the south’s largest cities on the other, this

sheltered 20-mile strait between the Isle of Wight and the mainland offers prime

sailing conditions that draw beginners and pros alike.

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Portsmouth

Southampton

Fareham

Chichester

Hamble-le-Rice

Calshot

West

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River

Hamble

Beaulieu

River

Portsmouth

Historic

Dockyard

SeaCity Museum

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Left Portsmouth Historic Dockyard

Below Kitesurfing, Calshot

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

Sailing legacies The Solent might be one of the most his-

torically significant bodies of water in England. In 1620 the

Mayflower set sail from Southampton, carrying the Pilgrims

to America, while in 1912 The Titanic set off on her ill-fated

maiden voyage from White Star Dock. Delve into this rich mari-

time heritage at Southampton’s SeaCity Museum, home to a

permanent, interactive Titanic Story exhibit. South along the

Solent, Portsmouth Historic Dockyard explores the area’s

long standing as a naval base. Two of Britain’s most famous

ships are here: the Mary Rose (1510–45), King Henry VIII’s

warship, which was recovered from the Solent in 1982; and

the HMS Victory, Lord Nelson’s flagship at the 1805 Battle of

Trafalgar.

Set sail Thanks to its protected waters, the Solent and its

tributaries offer ideal conditions for watersports. Windsurfers

and kitesurfers flock to Calshot and wild little Hayling Island,

while the idyllic Beaulieu River on the fringe of the New

Forest National Park is ideal for kayaking and paddleboard-

ing. For sailing lessons, the picturesque River Hamble is lined

with marinas and sailing clubs. Those with a licence can rent a

vessel to tour the river – stopping off at the charming village of

Hamble-le-Rice for a pub lunch. For something less hands-on,

Mermaids of Botley runs afternoon-tea cruises along the

Hamble onboard a restored 1930s pleasure boat.

H Best Solent Eats

AbarBistro Cosy spot in

Old Portsmouth with a

wine bar, pizza oven and a

catch-of-the-day menu.

Salt Cafe A favourite

with locals. Located at

WicorMarine Yacht Haven,

Portchester, with views

over Fareham Creek and

excellent coffee from local

roasters LowTide Coffee.

Try the crab open sand-

wich or cod brioche.

Southsea Beach

Cafe Another popular

local spot with a fantastic

beachfront location.

Boathouse Swanwick A

great casual lunch spot

with views of Swanwick

Marina on the Hamble.

Bacaro Italian restaurant

near Southampton’s

Ocean Village marina.

Their Sunday roast is the

best I’ve had locally for a

long time.

n By Kathryn

Watts,

Portsmouth-

based author

of the #HampshireFoodGuide

series

@kat_gotyourtongueblog

NICOLAMARGARET/GETTY

IMAGES

©

130

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

Island

ESCAPE

FOOD | BEACHES | CYCLING

Once a popular Victorian holiday destination, and now home to world-

famous festivals and a thriving foodie scene, the Isle of Wight is a charming

seaside escape. England’s largest island is perfect for a road trip on four or two

wheels.

25

Trip Notes

Getting here Foot passengers can take the hovercraft from Portsmouth

to Ryde (10 minutes). Car ferries run from Portsmouth to Fishbourne

(45 minutes), Southampton to Cowes (one hour), and Lymington to Yarmouth

(30 minutes).

When to go Summer for beaches and events, spring for cycling.

Music festivals The Isle of Wight Festival (June) is one of England’s biggest,

but don’t miss the IOW’s boutique festivals such as Rhythmtree and Ventnor

Fringe (July).

ŀ

Explore

by Bike

The two long-

distance Round

the Island routes

can be completed

in one day, or as a

pleasant three-day

tour. My favourite

shorter route would

be starting from

our hire centre in

Yarmouth, down the

old railway line and

onto the Tennyson

Trail, which affords

stunning views.

n By John

Allen,

Wight

Cycle Hire,

Yarmouth Station &

Newport Quay

@wightcyclehire

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Discover Queen Victoria’s

holiday palace, Osborne

House (pictured), then

explore the yacht-filled marina

or the Classic Boat Museum

in Cowes before a seafood

supper at Smoking Lobster.

01

Rent a kayak or paddleboard

from Tackt-Isle Adventures

(www.tackt-isle.co.uk) to explore

St Helens and Bembridge

Harbour, before lunch at the

Crab and Lobster Inn.

05

Discover the island’s top-

quality produce: start at the Garlic

Farm, then tour the vines and

cellars at Adgestone Vineyard,

one of the oldest in England.

04

Spend a day on the unspoilt

sandy beach at Compton Bay,

looking for dinosaur footprints at

Hanover Point. Grab a post-beach

burger at Tapnell Farm’s The Cow.

03

Walk through the

Old Battery cliff tunnel

for one of the best views

of The Needles, a row

of three chalk stacks

extending into the sea.

02

FROM LEFT: IAN WOOLCOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, GARRY BASNETT/

SHUTTERSTOCK ©, MIKEIOW/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

132

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

COAST | WALKING | BEACHES

26

The 630-mile South

West Coast Path is England’s

longest footpath. Tackle the full

route, break it into sections, or

pick a day walk to discover the

incredible diversity of landscapes,

heritage and wildlife fringing this

corner of the country.

Coastal

TRAILS

LUKASZ

PAJOR/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

ĸ How Long?

It’s possible to walk the

SWCP in 30 days, although

the average time is six to

eight weeks. National Trails

break the route into 52

sections, which can also be

done as stand-alone walks.

At the time of research, the

record, set by ultrarunner

Kristian Morgan, was 10 days,

12 hours and 6 minutes.

TANIA

NANEVA/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

HELEN

HOTSON/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

133

Above left Land’s End

Above South West Coast Path

Left Exmoor National Park, above Minehead

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

Best of the Southwest

The South West Coast Path (SWCP) starts at

Minehead in Somerset and sets off westward

through the high moors of Exmoor National

Park and along the North Devon coastline. Next

come the surf beaches and harbour towns of

Cornwall’s north coast, followed by windswept

Land’s End. After curling around Lizard Point,

the southernmost part of the mainland, the trail

turns eastward, eventually crossing the River

Tamar back into Devon. Here, it winds through

the historic seaside towns of the English

Riviera, before reaching the Jurassic Coast,

following this into Dorset and around the Isle of

Purbeck to end at Poole Harbour.

History & Heritage

Much of the SWCP follows routes once used

by excise officers patrolling for smugglers.

How to

Getting here The

closest train station to

the starting point at

Minehead is Taunton.

From here take a bus to

the coast.

When to go Most

walkers choose spring

to late summer. Early

autumn is less busy and

sea temperatures often

remain warm enough

for swimming.

Waymarker symbol

Acorn.

Top tip For planning

and practicalities, visit

southwestcoastpath.

org.uk.

134

Landing illegal contraband was rife on the

south coast, particularly during the 18th

century. Cornwall’s Prussia Cove is named

after local smuggler John ‘King of Prussia’

Carter, and in Dorset the Smuggler’s Inn

pub was once owned by a gang leader.

Other, less illicit industries have also left

their legacy. The remains of historic quarries

fringe the Dorset coast – Portland limestone

was used to build St Paul’s Cathedral and

Buckingham Palace – and crumbling engine

houses perch on the cliffs of the Cornwall

and West Devon Mining Landscape World

Heritage Site. Then there are the defence

structures that fringe the coastline, from

Iron Age hillforts such as Hillsborough, near

Ilfracombe, to the Victorian harbour fortress

of Weymouth’s Nothe Fort, as well as WWII

remnants like the pillboxes and bunkers at

Studland and Brownstone Battery on the

Dart Estuary.

Ē Best Short Walks

Revelstoke Drive and Noss

Mayo, in South Devon, for

a varied snapshot of what

the Path offers, with a valley,

village, hidden coves, rugged

coast and great views.

West Pentire and Polly Joke,

in North Cornwall, when the

poppy fields are in bloom.

Botallack and the Tin Coast,

in West Cornwall, where

mining heritage weaves into a

wild landscape.

Valley of Rocks, in North

Devon, with its spectacular

rock formations and herd of

friendly feral goats.

Lulworth Cove and Durdle

Door, on the Jurassic Coast,

are iconic landmarks on a

roller-coaster of sheer white

cliffs.

n By Lorna

Sherriff, Plymouth,

National Trails

Officer, South West

Coast Path Association

@southwestcoastpath

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DAVIDYOUN/SHUTTERSTOCK

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BELL/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

Left Village of Noss Mayo

Below Swans, Abbotsbury Swannery

135

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

Wildlife

Five AONBs, one national park and the North

Devon Biosphere lie on the SWCP, where a diverse

range of habitats are home to abundant wildlife.

Seals, dolphins and basking sharks can be seen

along the coast, especially from the headlands of

West Cornwall, where the Cornish Seal Sanctu-

ary cares for injured seal pups. Purbeck Heaths

National Nature Reserve is home to all six native

British reptiles, Exmoor has wild ponies and rare

butterflies, the marshes around the Kingsbridge

Estuary are rich with wading birds and otters, and

Abbotsbury Swannery shelters a vast colony of

nesting mute swans.

Dark Skies

By night, the SWCP offers magnificent conditions

for stargazing and astrophotography, with incred-

ibly dark skies over the sea. Exmoor is one of the

UK’s seven International Dark Sky Reserves –

climb to Dunkery Beacon, the highest point, for

optimal views. On the south coast you can see the

Milky Way rising over the sea: try Soar Mill Cove

or Durlston Country Park. Night hiking during a

full moon, when you won’t need a torch, will reveal

a magical new side to these coastal landscapes.

PAULA

FRENCH/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

ANDREW

PYM/EYEEM/GETTY

IMAGES

©

136

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

How to

Getting around Dart-

moor Explorer (firstbus.

co.uk) is a seasonal bus

service connecting Exeter

train and bus stations

with the national park’s

top locations.

When to go Spring

to autumn for better

weather – though

Dartmoor is famous for

its rain.

Leave no trace No open

fires, take all rubbish

home and follow local

by-laws (more info at

darmoor.gov.uk).

Less wild Try Dartmoor

Shepherds Huts

(dartmoorshepherdshuts.

co.uk) for rustic glamping.

GO WILD

on Dartmoor

CAMPING | HIKING | NATURE

27

Dartmoor is a land of contrasts: a vast wilderness of windswept moors,

wooded river valleys and bleak but beautiful upland heaths, where stark granite

outcrops top grassy hills and quaint villages harbour cosy pubs. A place riddled

with legends, criss-crossed by hiking and cycling trails, and a prime location for

off-grid camping, Dartmoor National Park is the southwest’s adventure playground.

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137

Left Haytor Rocks

Below Bowerman’s Nose

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

Wild camping Dartmoor’s craggy landscapes and myriad

legends lend themselves perfectly to camping adventures.

The 368-sq-mile national park is the only place in England

where wild camping (outside of a campsite) is legal: set up a

tent in your own patch of wilderness for the ultimate off-grid

experience. Try Ugborough Moor in the south for unrivalled

views, or the stark hills of the northwest, such as Yes Tor or

the legendary Branscombe’s Loaf. Plan carefully and be pre-

pared with the right gear: first-timers are advised to do plenty

of research. As long as you’re carrying your own equipment,

you can camp wild in most parts of the national park (but not

all: visit dartmoor.gov.uk for a wild-camping map, rules and

official guidance).

Tor-bagging Scotland has Munro-bagging, but in Dartmoor,

tor-bagging (climbing as many tor hills as possible) is the

name of the game. Tors are free-standing outcrops of granite

rising from a hill summit, and there are over 160 on Dartmoor,

many affording unbeatable views of the park’s landscapes. Try

the 6-mile circular walk around Haytor Rocks, or climb High

Willhays to reach the highest point in the park (621m above

sea level). The bizarre shapes of the weather-beaten rocks

attract folklore: look out for the witch Vixana at Vixen Tor and

for Bowerman’s Nose, a man turned to stone by witches.

Ē Wild Walks

King Way from High Down

to Meldon Reservoir, one

of Dartmoor’s‘ancient

tracks’.

From Chagford along

the river path and the

stunning Teign Gorge to

Fingle Bridge Inn.

Black-a-Tor Copse from

Meldon Reservoir. One of

only three ancient, high-

altitude oak woodlands.

Linear walk from Post-

bridge Visitors Centre

through Bellever Forest

to the‘Powdermills’gun-

powder factory ruins.

Cornwood circular walk:

Penn Beacon, Yealm Steps

waterfall, High House

Waste and Dendles Wood.

Beautiful sea views from

Penn Moor.

A map and compass skills,

or a guide, are essential

for walks into open moor.

The weather changes

fast and terrain can be

dangerous in places.

n By Emma

Cunis, guide at

Dartmoor’s

Daughter

(nature-connection walks

& experiences)

@dartmoorsdaughter

NIGEL

JARVIS/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

138

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

Cornwall by

RAIL

TRAINS | BEACHES | ADVENTURE

Fall asleep in London and wake up in Penzance on board one of only two

sleeper trains in the UK. Throughout Cornwall, scenic branch lines connect

with beautiful beaches, vibrant surf towns, quaint fishing villages and winding

coastal walks.

28

Trip Notes

Getting here The 11.45pm Night Riviera Sleeper from London Paddington

arrives in Penzance at 8am.

When to go Spring and summer for beach weather. Late August/early

September sees crowds dying down but there’s still a chance of good weather.

How much Twin-occupancy cabins on the sleeper train cost between £34 and

£80 per person.

Go further Explore beyond the station towns using the open-top Coaster bus

services from First Bus.

W

Best Window

Views

Cornwall’s branch

lines afford some

spectacular window

views. From St Erth to

St Ives (pictured), the

right-hand windows

overlook golden

sandy bays, while

the estuary views

on the Looe Valley

Line are best at high

tide. Sit on the left

of the sleeper train

for coastal views ap-

proaching Penzance.

FROM LEFT: NAME/CREDIT ©, NAME/CREDIT ©

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FROM LEFT: STEVE ALLEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

IAN WOOLCOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, STEVEN DENDY/GETTY IMAGES ©

Wake up in Penzance

after taking the sleeper

train from London. Hire

bikes from EBike Cornwall

to explore the coastline

and pay a visit to the iconic

St Michael’s Mount.

01

Spot birdlife in the estuary as

you ride the Looe Valley Line south.

Walk the coast path to Polperro

and back, then take a boat trip to

Looe Island Nature Reserve.

05

Cross moors and

wooded valleys on the

Atlantic Coast Line to

Newquay. Take your

pick from 11 golden

beaches, or try a

surfing lesson on the

famous Fistral Beach.

04

From Truro, take the

Maritime Line to Falmouth.

Tour the National Maritime

Museum and Pendennis Castle

before spending an afternoon

on Gyllyngvase ‘Gilly’ Beach.

03

Ride one of England’s

most scenic branch lines

from St Erth to St Ives to visit

Tate St Ives and gallery-hop in

the artistic seaside town.

02

EMILY

LUXTON/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

MATT

CARDY/GETTY

IMAGES

©

140

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

How to

Getting here/around Fly

to St Mary’s from Exeter,

Newquay or Land’s End,

or take the passenger

ferry from Penzance Har-

bour (2¾ hours). Ferries

and water taxis connect

with the other islands.

When to go Spring

through late summer for

beach weather, autumn

for wildlife and seal pups.

Taste of Scilly food

festival The archipelago’s

best food comes together

for this month-long

festival in September.

SCILLY

Food-Hopping

FOOD | BEACHES | ISLANDS

29

A sparsely populated archipelago just off the Cornish coast, with beaches

that wouldn’t look out of place in the tropics, the Isles of Scilly still feel like one

of England’s secrets. Visitors come for the rich nature and turquoise waters, but

stay for the simple, slow-paced island life and the exceptional local food scene.

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Scilly Spirit Distillery

Ruin Beach Cafe

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Flying Boat Cafe

Tanglewood

Kitchen

0

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e

141

Left Crab at the Crab Shack

Below St Martin’s Vineyard

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

Local flavours Restaurants across the Isles of Scilly were

doing local, seasonal and sustainable long before they were

foodie trends. Importing from the mainland is expensive and

impractical, so islanders grow almost everything themselves,

resulting in top-quality produce. Island-hop to discover the dis-

tinct personality of the five inhabited islands, or pack a picnic

for castaway vibes on one of the 140-odd uninhabited ones.

Self-catering St Mary’s delicatessen Tanglewood Kitchen

stocks local seafood, fruit, vegetables, gin and rum, and has

frozen homemade meals, sandwiches and readymade picnics

to take with you. Elsewhere, look out for roadside honesty

stalls selling homegrown and homemade produce.

Island-hopping Combine beach days, watersports and wildlife-

spotting with Scilly’s superb food experiences. Seafood lovers

must not miss tiny, rugged Bryher for fresher-than-fresh crab

at the Crab Shack, supplied by one of Scilly’s oldest fishing

families, the Penders (Island Fish). Catch your own on a fishing

trip with St Mary’s Boatmen’s Association (scillyboating.

co.uk) – they also arrange wildlife tours and evening ‘supper

boats’ for dinner on St Agnes. Laid-back but luxurious Tresco

has castles, gardens and island-inspired dining at the likes of

Ruin Beach Cafe and Flying Boat Cafe. Attend Gin School at

Scilly Spirit Distillery on St Mary’s to make your own bespoke

gin, or take a tour and tasting at St Martin’s Vineyard, one of

the smallest in the UK.

š Scilly Foraging

The Isles of Scilly are

the perfect opportunity

to get in touch with the

forager in you. Different

environments seamlessly

blend into each other

here, making it easy to

move from hedgerows to

moorland and coastal ar-

eas, discovering delicious

wild foods as you go.

Bermuda buttercup

Spring; edges of fields.

Rock samphire Spring;

coastline.

Wild fennel Late summer

for the scented seeds;

hedgerows.

Three-cornered leek

Spring; fields and

hedgerows.

Sea spinach Spring and

autumn; coastal areas.

Blackberries Late sum-

mer; hedgerows.

n By Rachel

Lambert,

wild-food writer

& tour guide at

Wild Walks South West

@rachellambertwildfood

foraging

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

142

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND REVIEWS

Ŧ Festivals

Glastonbury

One of the best-known festivals in England,

Glastonbury is held on Worthy Farm in Som-

erset, combining live music with the area’s

intrinsic spiritual side.

Stonehenge Summer Solstice

Officially a pagan celebration, this inimitable

festival at Stonehenge is open to all. Celebrate

the sunset and sunrise of the midsummer sol-

stice at this mysterious ancient monument.

Camp Bestival

A family-friendly music festival with huge

acts, children’s entertainment and funfair

rides, held on the grounds of Wareham’s

magnificent Lulworth Castle.

Bristol International Balloon Fiesta

Watch dozens of colourful balloons take to the

skies over Bristol at Europe’s largest hot-air

balloon event, with live music, a funfair and

arena displays.

Boardmasters

An irresistible pairing of surf and live music on

the Cornish coast at Fistral Beach and Water-

gate Bay, with clifftop stages, surf lessons and

the UK’s biggest surf competition.

ŗ Beauty Spots

Cheddar Gorge

Drive the winding road between the dra-

matic limestone cliffs of Cheddar Gorge in

Somerset’s Mendip Hills AONB, then explore

Cheddar Caves before sampling the area’s

namesake cheese.

New Forest National Park

A popular countryside escape on the edge of

Hampshire, with ancient woodlands, heaths,

grasslands and coastal landscapes. Look out for

the wild ponies roaming freely across the park.

Purbeck Heaths National Nature Reserve

The UK’s first ‘super’ nature reserve brings

together 11 different habitats across the Isle of

Purbeck and Brownsea Island in Dorset, all of

them teeming with rare wildlife.

š Glorious Gardens

Eden Project

An ecofriendly botanical garden near Par

centred on two vast biomes, one of which

contains the world’s largest indoor rainforest,

with a focus on education and sustainability.

Tresco Abbey Gardens

This subtropical garden showcases Tresco’s

unique microclimate, with exotic plants from

around the world housed within the ruins of a

Benedictine abbey.

Abbotsbury Subtropical Gardens

A range of landscaped gardens on the slopes

of a scenic valley near Abbotsbury. Head to

Cheddar Gorge

MARCHAUGH/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

the top of the Magnolia Walk for a stunning

Jurassic Coast viewpoint.

RHS Garden Rosemoor

Run by the charity behind London’s famous

Chelsea Flower Show, this enchanting

garden in Devon’s Torridge Valley is beautiful

in all seasons. Don’t miss the dazzling Hot

Garden in summer.

H Local Flavours

The PIG

£££

A boutique restaurant-hotel chain with

branches throughout the southwest including

New Forest, Studland and the Mendip Hills,

with a super-seasonal ‘25-Mile Menu’ fed by

foragers and the kitchen garden.

Clockspire

£££

On the Dorset–Somerset border and sourcing

produce from within a 20-mile radius, an oak-

beamed, stone-walled 1864 schoolhouse serves

inventive seasonal dishes such as Barbers

Cheddar custard with Marmite crackers.

Poco Tapas Bar

££

A sustainability-led tapas spot at the heart of

Bristol’s vibrant Stokes Croft neighbourhood,

with two daily-changing seasonal menus.

Olive Tree

£££

Bath’s only Michelin-star restaurant serves

classic British dishes with a twist, utilising the

West Country’s exceptional produce to craft

simple but exquisite seasonal menus.

River Cottage

££

Star of the Channel 4 series of the same

name, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s cosy

Axminster restaurant serves seasonal lunch-

es and suppers, with ingredients harvested

directly from the kitchen garden.

Taste East Devon Festival

£

East Devon’s best producers, chefs and

restaurants have joined forces to create a

new food and drink festival, backed by local

culinary legends Michael Caines and Fearnley-

Whittingstall.

H Seafood Hot Spots

Crab House Cafe

££

A casual eating spot on Weymouth’s Chesil

Beach, with locally caught crab and a con-

stantly changing menu based on the day’s

catch. Sister restaurant Billy Winters is a

favourite local brunch spot.

Rockfish

££

This small restaurant chain from a

sustainability-led Brixham fishmonger has

casual, seaside-chic restaurants across the

Devon and Dorset coasts serving fresh, catch-

of-the-day fish.

Hive Beach Cafe

££

Right on the beach at Burton Bradstock, with

views over Lyme Bay from the decked terrace,

this laid-back spot is a local favourite known

for ethically sourced Dorset seafood.

Seafood Restaurant

£££

Celebrity chef Rick Stein owns so many

eateries in Padstow the harbour town has

earned the nickname ‘Padstein’. His flagship

restaurant celebrates Cornish produce and

local seafood.

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SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND REVIEWS

Eden Project

PHOTOS

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144

SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND REVIEWS

Krispies

£

All the fish is responsibly sourced at this

husband-and-wife-run fish and chip shop in

Exmouth, which was crowned National Fish &

Chip Shop of the Year in 2019.

Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen

£££

A Michelin-starred seafood restaurant in a

15th-century fisher’s cottage right on Port

Isaac’s scenic harbour, where the menu

changes daily according to seasons, weather

and the day’s catch.

Crab Shed

££

This beachside shed with a few picnic bench-

es is the Isle of Wight’s most rustic seafood

spot, where the menu is purposefully limited

to a few things done very well.

Bango Kitchen

£

A down-to-earth pan-Asian restaurant in a

former granite warehouse right by the water in

Falmouth, with fresh sushi (locally and sustain-

ably sourced) as well as ramen and bao buns.

ı Literary Locations

Jamaica Inn

Visit the 18th-century smuggler’s inn on the

wilds of Cornwall’s Bodmin Moor that inspired

Daphne du Maurier’s novel of the same name.

Agatha Christie Literary Trail

The ‘Queen of Crime’ was born in Torquay,

lived on the English Riviera for most of her life,

and set many of her works in South Devon.

Thomas Hardy’s Cottage

A charming cob and thatch cottage in a village

near Dorchester, Thomas Hardy’s birthplace

lies at the heart of the landscapes that in-

spired his fictional region of Wessex.

Jane Austen’s House

The red-brick Hampshire cottage where Jane

Austen lived and wrote her novels hosts regu-

lar events, workshops and dress-up days.

Bryher

Tour Michael Morpurgo’s favourite Scilly

island and the setting for some of his most

beloved stories, including Why the Whales

Came and The Wreck of the Zanzibar.

6 Can’t-Miss Days Out

Longleat

This striking Elizabethan estate near Frome

has been home to a drive-through safari park

since 1966 – also boasting a hedge maze,

sea-lion cruise and vast play area.

Beaulieu

Nestled within the New Forest, Beaulieu

provides an ejnoyable day out on the estate

of a medieval manor house, home to the

fascinating National Motor Museum.

Swanage Steam Railway

Ride a heritage steam railway through the sce-

nic Purbeck countryside and past the hilltop

ruins of Corfe Castle – destroyed in the English

Civil War – to reach the seaside at Swanage.

Monkey World

An unlikely attraction for the rural Dorset

countryside, Monkey World is a primate and

ape rescue centre that saves and rehomes

animals from illegal trade.

Ħ Local Tipples

Bombay Sapphire Distillery

Discover the secrets of one of England’s

best-loved gins at the Laverstock Mill distillery

in the Hampshire countryside, where artistic

glasshouses grow the exotic botanicals

infused into the gin.

Camel Valley

This family-run vineyard near Bodmin was the

first in the UK to be awarded a royal warrant.

Worth a visit simply for the valley views from

the sun terrace.

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SOUTHWEST

ENGLAND REVIEWS

Langham Wine Estate

Sample some of the southwest’s most award-

ed sparkling wines at this beautiful, low-in-

tervention vineyard on the estate of a historic

manor house near Dorchester.

Burrow Hill Cider Farm

Home of Somerset Cider Brandy, this pictur-

esque farm overlooking the Somerset Levels

has been pressing cider for over 200 years.

Tour the orchard and the UK’s first commer-

cial cider distillery.

Dartmoor Whisky Distillery

A tasting at Devon’s only whisky distillery

pairs nicely with a day exploring the wilds of

the neighbouring Dartmoor National Park.

Verdant Brewing Co

A super-hip craft brewery hidden away on an

industrial estate in Penryn. Known for hoppy,

unfiltered, hazy beers that are always vegan.

Hall & Woodhouse Brewery

Home of Badger Beers, brewed since 1777

on the banks of the River Stour in Blandford

Forum. Visit for tours and tastings before

exploring this often overlooked Dorset town.

Tarquin’s Gin

This small-batch craft gin distillery on the

Cornish coast, near Wadebridge, was named

World’s Best Gin at the 2017 San Francisco

World Spirits Competition.

Scott Arms

Worth visiting simply for the views of Corfe

Castle and the Purbeck Hills from its vast

beer garden, this historic Wareham pub

serves beer and cider from local, independent

breweries.

ţ Quirky Coves & Secluded Beaches

Kynance Cove

Not at all secret, the turquoise waters and soft

white sands at Kynance Cove near Mullion

make it a worthy representative for the very

best of the Cornish coast.

Nanjizal Beach

Home to a narrow rock arch, a waterfall and a

ruined watermill, this hidden Cornish cove can

only be reached by walking the 1.6-mile coast

path from Land’s End.

Barricane Beach

A soft sandy bay tucked between dark, jagged

rocks on the outskirts of Woolacombe, strewn

with exotic shells carried by the Gulf Stream

from the Caribbean.

Lannacombe Beach

At the end of a winding country road, with

parking for about 15 cars, this south-facing

sandy beach feels like one of Devon’s secrets.

Chapman’s Pool

This perfectly formed bay nestled between

towering grey cliffs on Dorset’s Jurassic Coast

lies at the end of a steep 1-mile descent from

Worth Matravers.

Mudeford Spit

A long sandbank stretching across the mouth

of Christchurch Harbour, with white sand

dunes and colourfully painted beach huts

alongside the towering headland and nature

reserve at Hengistbury Head.

Thomas Hardy’s Cottage

DAVIDYOUNG/SHUTTERSTOCK

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BIRMINGHAM &

THE MIDLANDS

HISTORY | FOOD | CULTURE

u Eyes to the Sky (p152)

u Game Changer (p154)

u Beer Country (p156)

u Shropshire Hills

Road Trip (p158)

u Peak Practice (p160)

u Spice Routes (p164)

u The Malverns

by Rail (p166)

u Land of

Imagination (p168)

u Modern Midlands

Storytellers (p170)

u Listings (p172)

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H E R E F O R D S H I R E

S H R O P S H I R E

W A L E S

The Long

Mynd

Malvern

Hills

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Se

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rn

T

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m

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Marshbrook

Newport

Church Stretton

Ludlow

Kidderminster

Stoke- on-Trent

Telford

Shrewsbury

Hereford

Worcester

Caer Caradoc

v

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Q

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Explore Stokesay Castle,

England’s best-preserved fortified

medieval manor house (p159)

ń 40mins from Shrewsbury

Leave the Cotswold Line

to hike the spectacular

Malvern Hills (p166)

ŉ 1hr from Birmingham

Happily free of outdated narratives and

stereotypes, BIRMINGHAM is now a sleek gastronomic

haven in the heart of England, while the surrounding

Midlands region is a beguiling cocktail of ancient

hills, literary legend, crumbling castles and

pioneering industry.

BIRMINGHAM &

THE MIDLANDS

Trip Builder

See a blanket of stars at Carding Mill

Valley’s Dark Sky Discovery Sites (p153)

ń 1hr from Birmingham

BIRMINGHAM

&

THE

MIDLANDS BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

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L E I C E S T E R S H I R E

S T A F F O R D S H I R E

D E R B Y S H I R E

W A R W I C K S H I R E

W O R C E S T E R S H I R E

S O U T H

Y O R K S H I R E

Northern

Cotswolds

Carsington

Reservoir

Peak District

National Park

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Buxton

Chapel-en-le-Frith

Hinckley

Bakewell

Stafford

Macclesfield

Longton

Warwick

Matlock

Stratford-upon-Avon

Evesham

Leek

Loughborough

Derby

Walsall

Coventry

Dudley

Birmingham

Wolverhampton

Nottingham

Chesterfield

Leicester

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: PETER TITMUSS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, RICHARD

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PREVIOUS SPREAD: TRABANTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Stroll the cobbled streets and

riverside trails of Shakespeare’s

Stratford-upon-Avon (p168)

ŉ 1hr from Birmingham

Sample a classic English Bakewell

Tart in quaint Bakewell (p163)

ń 1hr from Derby

Sample a host of spices in

Birmingham’s Balti Triangle (p164)

Ň 10mins from Birmingham city centre

Sip the finest Midlands craft

beer in Birmingham’s Stirchley

neighbourhood (p157)

ŉ 15mins from Birmingham

city centre

Cycle over viaducts on the Peak

District’s Monsal Trail (p161)

ń 1hr from Derby

TRABANTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK

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150

Practicalities

HOW MUCH

FOR A

BIRMINGHAM

&

THE

MIDLANDS FIND

YOUR

FEET

Curry (with a

drink)

£25

Burger

£9.50

Craft beer

£5

GETTING AROUND

WHEN TO GO

Train, tram and bus The

Midlands is well connected

by train and the most you’ll

pay will be less than £15 for

a return ticket. Aside from

the Wolverhampton line,

Birmingham’s tram system isn’t

extensive but several new routes

are in the process of being built.

An all-zone adult day fare is £6.70.

The Midlands is well served by

bus routes but they’re run by

different companies in each town/

region, so check ahead for fares.

ARRIVING

Birmingham New Street Station Birmingham’s

primary rail hub (pictured, architect: AZPML),

reachable directly from all over England. Most

city-centre hotels are within a 10-minute walk, as

are Moor Street and Snow Hill stations.

Birmingham Airport The Midlands’ main air

travel gateway, with several trains per hour

running to New Street Station, Coventry,

Wolverhampton and London. There’s a taxi rank

outside the terminal building; expect to pay £30

to £40 for a cab to the city centre.

Car The most practical way to

explore the hills and countryside.

Walking All Midlands city centres

are mostly flat and walkable, with

Birmingham the largest. The

majority of attractions can be

reached within 15 minutes.

JAN–MAR

Cold and overcast; ideal for

exploring Birmingham’s

restaurants and galleries.

JUL–SEP

Peak season for outdoor

exploring or enjoying

Birmingham’s beer gardens.

APR–JUN

Mild temperatures and green

foliage return.

OCT–DEC

Chilly air returns; autumn

colours are perfect for

canalside strolls.

TOP:

PIARAIS

CROWLEY

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BOTTOM:

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STOCK

PHOTO

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151

BIRMINGHAM

&

THE

MIDLANDS FIND

YOUR

FEET

WHERE TO STAY

Birmingham is the Midlands’ biggest hub with the most hotels, but it

also has extensive transport links to the region’s towns if you’d prefer to

break up your trip into sections.

EATING & DRINKING

Birmingham has evolved into one of England’s finest dining scenes, and

some of its best restaurants can be found in neighbourhoods outside

the city centre. Superb craft beer taprooms are peppered throughout

Stirchley, while Moseley is home to a mix of pan-European restaurants.

The fiery balti curry (pictured bottom right) is Birmingham’s signature

dish; head to its spiritual home – the Balti Triangle – to find the most

exceptional expressions of this local classic. Note, however, that most

balti restaurants operate a BYOB (bring your own beer) policy.

Best craft beer Attic Brew Co (pictured top right, p157)

Must-try balti Shababs (p165)

MONEY

While contactless payment is now accepted almost

everywhere, you’ll still need some cash in certain

situations – eg tipping at restaurants or at farmers

markets. Trains beyond the Midlands can be expen-

sive, so book in advance or travel at off-peak times.

DISCOUNTS

The Independent Birmingham

app costs just £2.99 and

offers discounts at over 150 of

Birmingham’s best independent

cafes, bars, restaurants and shops.

CONNECT & FIND YOUR WAY

Wi-fi Plenty of bars and cafes

in Birmingham offer free wi-fi.

If you’re arriving at New Street

Station and need to get your

bearings, exit at Stephenson St

and you’ll find several cafes on

Temple St.

Navigation The tourist office

at the Library of Birmingham

in Centenary Sq offers free

city and walking maps to both

Birmingham and the Midlands.

Place

Pro/Con

Birmingham

Wide variety of nightlife and

accommodation. Walkable, with very good

public transport links. Lack of quality high-

end hotels.

Stratford-upon-

Avon

Hotels in town and countryside. Good

base for exploring Warwickshire. Gets

busy with tourists in summer.

Worcester and

Great Malvern

Offers several spa hotels. Best for

accessing Malvern Hills hiking trails. Great

Malvern is small and becomes quiet in the

evenings.

Nottingham and

Derby

Good access to East Midlands Airport and

the Peak District. Neither are as lively as

Birmingham.

Cotswolds

Hotels, cottages and B&Bs in a tranquil

English countryside setting. Expensive in

the summer as tourists flock in.

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IMAGES

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BIRMINGHAM

&

THE

MIDLANDS EXPERIENCES

How to

Getting here/around

The observatories in

Birmingham, Nottingham

and Stoke are accessible

by train, though you’ll

need a car for the most

rural, pollution-free

stargazing locations.

When to go Spring and

autumn are probably the

ideal times of year to go

stargazing as the nights

are longer but aren’t as

bitterly cold as in winter.

Wrap up Evenings in

England are often chilly,

so layer up with clothes

to enjoy the night sky

without feeling cold.

Eyes to

THE SKY

STARGAZING | OUTDOORS | WALKING

30

Escapism can take many forms, but one divine way of escaping the daily

grind is hiding in plain sight. Just glancing up on a clear evening can reveal

distant planets, shooting stars and far-away constellations. Stargazing is an

ethereal and sometimes awe-inspiring way of understanding the universe, and

the Midlands is home to several Dark Sky Discovery Sites.

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Avon

Stafford

Loughborough

Derby

Walsall

Kidderminster

Coventry

Dudley

Birmingham

Wolverhampton

Leicester

Shrewsbury

Stoke-on-Trent

Nottingham

Church Stretton

Thinktank Birmingham

Science Museum

National Space

Center

Carding Mill Valley

Barr Beacon

Client

Hills

Long Mynd

Trent Astronomical

Observatory

Keele University's

Observartory

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40 km

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20 miles

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Left Carding Mill Valley

Below Keele Observatory

BIRMINGHAM

&

THE

MIDLANDS EXPERIENCES

Near the big city Stargazing is an activity best enjoyed in

unpolluted rural locations, but you don’t have to travel too far

from Birmingham to sample the distant shimmer. Worces-

tershire’s Clent Hills are just 10 miles from the city, and the

300m-high summits of Clent Hill and Walton Hill provide fine

views. Walsall’s Barr Beacon is the West Midlands’ only des-

ignated Dark Sky Discovery Site where all seven main stars in

the constellation of Orion are visible to the naked eye.

The sound of silence If you’re prepared to travel further,

there is no better spot in the Midlands for stargazing than

Shropshire’s Carding Mill Valley. Silence permeates these

steep and imposing hills, and the immense plateau of the

Long Mynd offers four different Dark Sky Discovery Sites.

With light pollution levels making visibility crisp and clear,

it’s possible to see the Milky Way and you don’t need special

equipment either, although binoculars and telescopes bring

new dimensions to the experience.

Indoor escapes It’s an inescapable fact that the sky isn’t

always clear in England, and that the maritime climate makes

stargazing challenging occasionally. However, the Midlands is

blessed with some excellent ways of compensating for this.

The 4K planetarium at Thinktank Birmingham Science

Museum showcases the solar system in bright sharp

images with crystal-clear surround sound, while Leicester’s

National Space Centre hosts the 192-seat Patrick Moore

Planetarium, the UK’s largest.

ć

Outstanding

Observatories

Keele Observatory Keele

University’s observatory

is home to a historic 31cm

aperture refractor from

1874. The observatory in

Stoke is open to the public

year-round on Tuesday

nights and Saturday

afternoons.

University of Birming-

ham Observatory

This observatory was

established in 1982.

Its Ritchey–Chrétien

Cassegrain telescope is

the largest in the West

Midlands. Look out for the

public‘Astronomy in the

City’stargazing events.

Trent Astronomical

Observatory Located

near the Erasmus Darwin

buildings on the Clifton

Campus of Nottingham

Trent University, this

observatory is home

to several high-tech

telescopes accessible to

the public during regular

‘Open Dome’events.

CLASSIC

IMAGE/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

154

Left Watt steam engine factory

Centre Selfridges Building (architect:

Future Systems), the Bullring

Right Library of Birmingham (architect:

Francine Houben), Centenerary Square

BIRMINGHAM

&

THE

MIDLANDS ESSAY

Game

Changer

HOW TO TURN A

REPUTATION AROUND

Despite a proud

pioneering history,

Birmingham’s

postwar image was

drab. But a sleek

facelift and a culinary

revolution have put

the UK’s second-

largest city back on

the map.

’There are signs directing you away from the place, but

nothing at all enticing you in,’ once quipped the popular

TV presenter and writer Jeremy Clarkson in regards to

Birmingham. While Clarkson’s flippant comments about

the city were no doubt for comic effect, it’s a sentiment

that would probably have been shared by many in England

just a few years ago.

How did we get to this point?

At the dawn of the industrial age in the 18th century, Bir-

mingham was at the forefront of worldwide developments

in science, technology, medicine, philosophy and natural

history. The diversity of its output led to a nickname of ‘the

city of 1000 trades’, and the 1775 development of the Watt

steam engine by locals James Watt and Matthew Boulton

was arguably the pivotal development of the entire Indus-

trial Revolution, without which Britain’s rise to economic

superiority may not have been possible.

Birmingham confirmed its position as Britain’s manu-

facturing capital in the 20th century by moving into the

emerging automotive, mechanical and electrical engi-

neering sectors. The city also enhanced its reputation as

a manufacturing centre of excellence by playing a crucial

role in both world wars.

But the catastrophic manufacturing decline of the 1970s,

twinned with ugly concrete-ridden postwar town planning,

gave rise to the grim reputation that saddled the city for

so long (Birmingham’s vision of being the ‘city of the mo-

tor car’ is still a problem it’s grappling with today).

And despite revolutionary musical contributions from

metal pioneers Black Sabbath and reggae superstars

UB40, Birmingham was never afforded the same level

CARON

BADKIN/SHUTTERSTOCK

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155

The diversity of

its output led to a

nickname of ‘the city of

1000 trades’.

BIRMINGHAM

&

THE

MIDLANDS ESSAY

of creative status as other English cities like Liverpool and

Manchester.

However – to paraphrase Isaac Newton – for every action

there must be an opposite reaction, and at the turn of this

century Birmingham began turning a staid reputation on its

head with the construction of the new £500 million Bullring

shopping centre. The previous Bullring was a crumbling grey

reminder of the 1960s,

while the new incarnation’s

bulbous design is bold and

bizarre, everything that

Birmingham wasn’t sup-

posed to be.

This progressive thinking

was replicated when the

stark brutalist Central Library was razed to the ground and re-

placed with a gleaming redesign of Chamberlain Sq, while the

quirky new Library of Birmingham rose up in Centenary Sq.

Azure trams now glide by the square where rumbling traffic

once chugged.

And with the most Michelin-star restaurants in the UK

outside London, the change in the Second City has been as

profound indoors as it has been outdoors. Birmingham is an

undisputed gastro capital, and visitors now come for its wildly

creative food scene and a vibrant neighbourhood vibe. From

Glynn Purnell to Aktar Islam, it’s locals who run the city’s most

celebrated restaurants, and with that comes a confidence of a

city prepared to celebrate itself once again.

ť

Symbols of a New

Birmingham

Grand Central Natural light

now pours onto the colourful

shops and bars occupying

the space vacated by New

Street Station’s old unloved

concourse.

Corporation Street Once

a fume-filled artery of

gridlocked buses, Corporation

St is now home to sleek trams

and spacious sidewalks.

Centenary Square Rainbow

fountains and the jaunty

Library of Birmingham have

given this historic square a

striking flourish.

IAN

FRANCIS/SHUTTERSTOCK

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WILLIAMS/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

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BIRMINGHAM

&

THE

MIDLANDS EXPERIENCES

How to

Getting here/around

There are plenty of

pubs and bars within

walking distance of the

Midlands’ main train

stations – definitely don’t

consider driving if you

want to make the most of

experiencing the region’s

best beer.

When to go There are

few greater English

pastimes than sitting in

a beer garden with a cold

pint, so aim for between

May and September

(sunny weather is never a

given though).

Top tip Order half-pints

to sample the widest

variety of styles in a

session.

BEER

Country

BEER | CULTURE | HISTORY

31

The relationship between beer and the Midlands runs deep. From the

centuries-long brewing legacy of Burton upon Trent to Birmingham’s breezy

modern taprooms, the Midlands is a hot spot for exploring a range of creative

beer styles. So sample sours, stouts and hazy IPAs, but always save time for a

quiet pint at a traditional old pub.

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Burton-

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Wolverhampton

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Shrewsbury

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Nottingham

Neon Raptor Brewing Co

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Left Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem

Below BathamsBrewery–BestBitter

BIRMINGHAM

&

THE

MIDLANDS EXPERIENCES

Pioneers Despite its small size, there was a time when the

Staffordshire town of Burton upon Trent produced one in

every four pints sold in Britain. Although those gaudy figures

have declined since Burton’s 19th-century heyday, visitors

can sample some of Burton’s finest traditional hand-pulled

cask ales at the Burton Bridge Inn, home of Burton Bridge

Brewery. Some 28 miles northeast in Nottingham lies Ye Olde

Trip to Jerusalem, the UK’s oldest surviving inn with a history

(allegedly) dating back to 1189.

The modern age Craft beer has come a long way since

those early days, and today’s taprooms offer more styles and

creative thinking than ever before. Birmingham’s Stirchley

neighbourhood is blessed with several sublime breweries

such as Attic Brew Co and GlassHouse, while Coventry’s co-

lourful FarGo Village is home to the excellent Twisted Barrel

Brewery and Tap House. Visit Nottingham’s Neon Raptor

Brewing Co taproom for the freshest expressions from one of

England’s most exciting breweries.

Festival season While England’s weather may be more

suited to cosy fireside pints, summer festivals mean enjoying

and trying as much as possible alongside friends, food and

music. Hereford’s three-day Beer on the Wye festival in July

celebrates the best in cask ale and cider, while in September

Birmingham’s Suds Fest showcases 10+ breweries pouring

several different styles. West Midlands CAMRA also runs

various festivals throughout the summer, so look it up during

your visit.

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Seductive

Samples

Bathams Brewery –

Best Bitter This brewery

is a Midlands institution.

A classic style with a light

biscuity flavour from the

malt, and a pleasant bitter

finish from the hops.

Best enjoyed on cask and

perfect with food.

Rock & Roll Brew-

house – Voodoo Mild

Another classic Midlands

style. Dark, roasted coffee

and chocolate notes

abound in this cask-only

beer. Only available at its

music-themed taproom in

Birmingham’s Jewellery

Quarter.

Attic Brew Co – Intuition

One of many up-and-

coming Midlands brew-

eries. This pale ale is light

and easy-drinking, with

plenty of tropical fruit

flavours.

n By

Catherine

Webber,

Business

Development Manager at

Attic Brew Co and founder of

Brum Beer Babs

@cathw1901

PATRICIA

NOVELLI/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

158

BIRMINGHAM

&

THE

MIDLANDS EXPERIENCES

Shropshire Hills

ROAD TRIP

HISTORY | HIKING | LANDSCAPES

Hit the road and explore a cinematic landscape once described by the

Victorians as ‘Little Switzerland’. Only a few miles from the Welsh border, the

Shropshire Hills are dotted with beautiful hiking trails, castle ruins, foodie

havens and historic breweries.

32

Trip Notes

Getting around Hire a car in either Shrewsbury or Ludlow and use the

A49 to travel between the two, branching off into the hills whenever you

feel like it. There’s also a useful train service between both towns.

When to go May to September is the best and warmest time of year to

enjoy the region’s scenic walks and busy beer gardens.

Top tip Hire a Morgan from Great Malvern to drive the serpentine hills

in style.

Š Top of the World

Escape to an undiscovered

corner of rural England in

the Shropshire Hills. Get

away from crowds and the

frantic pace of life. Walk up

the Long Mynd (pictured)

and hear nothing but

nature’s tranquillity and

marvel at the breath-

takingly beautiful views

across Shropshire and

into Wales. There is no

place like it, and it’s why

we moved here!

n By Amy Gault, co-owner

of Middle Farm and Cottages,

Church Stretton

@middlefarmandcottages

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Shrewsbury is flanked

by a snaking river and

contains over 660 listed

buildings. It’s also the

birthplace of Charles Darwin

and there are walks, festivals

and statues in his honour.

01

With glorious food festivals,

busy farmers markets and

exceptional restaurants, Ludlow

has a thriving gastronomic scene.

Book a meal at Mortimers for

magnificent Modern British cuisine.

05

Visit England’s best-preserved

fortified medieval manor house.

With grand wooden beams and

stone walls, the Great Hall at

Stokesay Castle has remained

unchanged for over 700 years.

04

Sample real ales at Three

Tuns Brewery, Britain’s oldest

licensed brewery site dating

back to 1642. Don’t miss

Six Bells pub, too, with its

ostentatious orange exterior.

03

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Explore Shropshire’s

finest scenery in Church

Stretton by taking on the

5-mile Burway Loop around

the Long Mynd. With its rural

setting, Carding Mill Valley

is home to the Midlands’

finest Dark Sky experiences.

02

160

BIRMINGHAM

&

THE

MIDLANDS EXPERIENCES

HIKING | OUTDOORS | HISTORY

33

The Peak District was

England’s first national park

when it opened in 1951 and its

yawning valleys, stone villages,

rolling hills and historic homes

continue to delight. Brushing the

northernmost tip of the Midlands,

it’s a spectacular day-trip spot.

PEAK

Practice

MICHAEL

FAUGHY/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

W Flying Eye

Experience the widescreen

Peak District from above

by taking a helicopter ride

over this scenic landscape.

From short taster rides to

the flagship Dambuster

and Chatsworth Tour,

Central Helicopters offers

several journeys that give

you a spectacular airborne

eye over the Peak District

National Park.

RMC42/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

RMC42/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

161

Above left Kinder Scout

Above Helicopter ride, Peak District

Left Monsal Trail

BIRMINGHAM

&

THE

MIDLANDS EXPERIENCES

The Great Outdoors

Getting outdoors in the Peak District means

exploring everything from craggy limestone

valleys to serene lakes and reservoirs. From

easy rambles to demanding hikes, the

region is home to several walking trails for

all ages and levels of fitness. The circular,

6-mile Bakewell to Chatsworth Walk

takes in ancient woodlands and the opulent

Chatsworth House, while the challenging

Kinder Scout Loop climbs the Peak District’s

highest summit (636m).

Derbyshire has 260 miles of breezy

traffic-free trails, so hire a mountain bike

and explore on two wheels. A former railway

line dating back to 1863 (the line closed 100

years later), the Monsal Trail is a meandering

8-mile delight taking in dense forest, historic

lime kilns and soaring Victorian viaducts.

How to

Getting here/around

While you’ll need a

car to reach the more

remote locations, there

are plenty of bus and

train links. The Derwent

Valley Line runs from

Derby to Matlock, from

where buses branch off

towards picturesque

towns and villages.

When to go The long

days of summer are

the best time of year to

enjoy the Peak District’s

beauty. Tourist towns

like Bakewell and Buxton

swell with visitors, so

book accommodation in

advance.

Top tip Allow two days

to make the most of the

Peak District.

162

Centuries of Grandeur

From ancient hills to medieval villages, history

is a recurring theme in the Peak District and

the town of Bakewell – itself a place with

an interesting past – is nearby to two of

England’s finest historic houses.

Located 3.5 miles northeast of Bakewell,

Chatsworth House is a lavish 16th-century

mansion recognisable for its appearances in

various adaptations of Jane Austen’s Pride

and Prejudice. The grand estate is home to

over 30 rooms, the famous Devonshire art

collection and a stunning 43-hectare garden.

Nearby Haddon Hall is a medieval manor

house and one of the most complete of its

kind. With the origins of the hall dating back to

the 11th century, its handsome 16th-century

Long Gallery is a marvel.

Epic Vistas

Whether you’re standing on a wind-whipped

summit or sitting at a sky-high restaurant, the

Peak District isn’t short of ethereal panoramas.

ť

Transport

Back in Time

Great British CarJourney

See a curated selection of

British cars that left a lasting

impact. Rather than showing

off famous Jaguars or Aston

Martins, this interesting

collection in Ambergate fo-

cuses on forgotten classics

like the Morris Marina and

Hillman Avenger.

Critch TramwayVillage

Head to Critch to ride the

beautiful vintage trams that

were once commonplace

in England. The recreated

period street is wonderfully

meticulous and includes

a pub and a traditional

sweet shop.

Peak Rail The romance of

steam is alive and well in

the Peak District, and Peak

Rail offers journeys aboard

heritage locomotives on

the 4-mile tracks between

Matlock and Rowsley South.

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Left Critch Tramway Village

Below Edale

163

BIRMINGHAM

&

THE

MIDLANDS EXPERIENCES

Take a cable car 169m above the charming town

of Matlock up to the 24-hectare Heights of

Abraham park where the Vista Restaurant allows

visitors to dine with the dense forests and rolling

hills of the Derwent Valley unfolding beneath.

The hazy ridges of Mam Tor (mother hill) give

glorious views that take on an almost ghostly form

when they pierce through the low-lying cloud.

Derwent Dam is famous for its associations with

the wartime ‘Dambusters’, and the scenes here

from Pike Low are magnificent, especially in

autumnal colours.

Village Life

When you’re surrounded by so much natural

beauty, it’s tempting to put on hiking gear every

day, though that would mean missing out on some

charming villages.

Home of the quintessentially English Bakewell

Tart, Bakewell is wonderfully located near several

attractions and walking trails. Its mellow stone

buildings, jagged medieval bridge and tranquil

riverside setting make for a dreamy spot to spend

a night or two.

The idyllic village of Edale is either the first or

last stop on the celebrated Pennine Way trail and

is an ideal spot to rest weary legs. And at 305m

above sea level, spa haven Buxton is England’s

highest market town.

164

BIRMINGHAM

&

THE

MIDLANDS EXPERIENCES

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The years following WWII

saw a major influx of immigration

into Birmingham, largely from

Commonwealth regions such as

the Indian subcontinent and the

Caribbean. Life wasn’t easy for the new

arrivals at first, but their influence

added to Birmingham’s cultural

vibrancy and contributed to the city

becoming arguably England’s hottest

food destination outside the capital.

At street level Classic imag-

es of Birmingham are always

of its city centre, but its multi-

cultural character resides in

its neighbourhoods. Head to

Soho Rd in Handsworth or

the stretch of Stratford Rd be-

tween Sparkhill and Spark-

brook to experience the city’s

beating heart. Fresh fruit is

sold under striped awnings,

while flavours and spices

drift out from busy restau-

rants and bistros. Colourful

saris hang in windows next

to shops selling sticky jalebi.

It’s a side to Birmingham only

seen when you come here.

Birmingham’s own It was

in Sparkbrook that the city’s

most famous dish was

developed by Birmingham’s

fledgling Pakistani community

in the early 1970s. A fiery one-

pot curry that’s still popular

today, the balti is a symbol

of the city’s diversity. The

spiritual home of this dish is

Sparkbrook’s Balti Triangle

area, and it’s where you’ll find

How to

Getting here/around The most venerated restau-

rants are in the city centre and are comfortably

walkable, but neighbourhoods like Handsworth and

Sparkbrook are best served by bus or taxi.

When to go The fiery aromas of a classic Birmingham

balti are enjoyed all year round but take on a special

window-steaming warmth during the winter months.

Don’t be shy Indian food in Birmingham is often

good value, so don’t be afraid to sample as much as

possible in smaller portions.

Spice

ROUTES

FOOD | CULTURE | PEOPLE

34

165

Above Opheem

BIRMINGHAM

&

THE

MIDLANDS EXPERIENCES

NICK

MASLEN/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

ť Unmissable Dishes

Chicken balti (Shababs)

Nobody does it better

than Shababs, where the

spicing is bold and fragrant

and the peripherals of the

balti dish are scorched and

caramelised with the sticky

reduced sauce.

Aloo tuk (Opheem)

Aktar Islam has changed the

country’s perception of sub-

continental food, and no dish

personifies this better than

his aloo tuk. It’s a humble

tribute to the potato – enjoy

layers of flavour and textures

interspersed with a little

tamarind for contrast.

Dhaba methi paneer

(Indian Streatery) At this

family-run venue focused on

Indian street food, the methi

paneer is a thing of beauty.

Nothing nuanced here, just

big hits of fenugreek, garlic

and peppers, tempered by

the bland cheese.

n By Simon Carlo,

multi-award-

winning food writer

and founder of

Meat and One Veg blog

@meatandonevegblog

the most authentic versions.

Shababs and Shahi Nan

Kabab are among the best

restaurants keeping this proud

Birmingham tradition alive.

The cream of the crop

Many restaurants represent-

ing the best of Birmingham’s

global flavours are within a

20-minute walk of the city

centre. The magnificent

Indian fine dining displayed

at Opheem earned Bir-

mingham its first-ever two

Michelin-starred restaurant,

while Viceroy in the Jewellery

Quarter offers a window into

rich Bangladeshi cooking.

Stay in the neighbourhood

for smoky Jamaican jerk

chicken at Portland Lagoon

or the sweet and spicy Malay-

sian flavours of Kopitiam.

NEIL

BUSSEY/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

166

BIRMINGHAM

&

THE

MIDLANDS EXPERIENCES

The Malverns

BY RAIL

HISTORY | NATURE | WALKS

Passing by rolling countryside, chocolate-box villages and ethereal

cathedral spires, the Cotswold Line from Oxford to Hereford takes in some of the

most quintessentially English landscapes. Sit back and enjoy the view, or alight to

explore each alluring stop.

35

Trip Notes

Getting around The 86-mile journey will take around two hours if starting in

either Oxford or Hereford. Off-peak return tickets (post-9am departures) are

better value than anytime return tickets.

When to go Summer is the best time to see the countryside in full bloom.

The romance of steam Step back to the golden age of rail by riding a steam

train on the Severn Valley Railway. Visit by changing at Worcester and taking

the 20-minute ride to Kidderminster.

Ē

Spectacular

Summer Walks

Cotswold Way A soothing

weave through the

Cotswolds’picturesque

villages – pick any part

of this 100-mile trail and

embrace the scenery.

Malvern Hills End to

End Walk A challenging

ramble along the mighty

spine of the Malvern Hills

(pictured) flanked by

glorious panoramas.

Wye ValleyWalk From

cavernous ravines to

gentle orchards, the 136-

mile walk expresses this

region at its bucolic best.

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Oxford is famous worldwide

for its 800-year-old university.

And with buildings in every style

of English architecture since

the late Anglo-Saxon period, its

streets are endlessly seductive.

01

Finish at Hereford, home to

the Mappa Mundi, a medieval

map of the then-known world

displayed at Hereford Cathedral.

Sip some local cider afterward in

the historic town centre.

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Great Malvern is the

gateway to the stunning Malvern

Hills. Take the steep walk up

to Worcestershire Beacon

for spectacular views towards

Birmingham, Bristol and the

Black Mountains in Wales.

04

Roll into Worcester, the

scene of the final battle of the

English Civil War. Explore the

towering Worcester Cathedral

before sampling riverside pubs

like Browns at the Quay.

03

The picturesque lanes

and quaint surroundings of

Moreton-in-Marsh exude

Cotswolds charm. Look

out for the local market

held every Tuesday or

stroll the peaceful Circular

Walk amid nearby honey-

coloured villages.

02

FROM LEFT: SERGII FIGURNYI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

TRAVELLIGHT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

168

BIRMINGHAM

&

THE

MIDLANDS EXPERIENCES

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Sarehole

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Birthplace Museum

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Shakespeare's

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From timeless plays to billion-

dollar movie franchises, the Midlands

has birthed some of the most famous

stories ever told. And while the bright

lights of London will always capture

the global imagination, England’s

heartlands are full of quirky characters

and unique landscapes that inspired its

literary greats. Step back in time and

explore a land of underrated creativity.

How Birmingham inspired

Tolkien With his youthful

curiosity piqued by south

Birmingham’s quirky

architecture and mysterious

woods, The Lord of the Rings

author JRR Tolkien lived in

the city during his formative

years. Sarehole Mill is a

250-year-old watermill and

museum that fascinated

Tolkien. Nearby is Moseley

Bog, the nature reserve that

inspired the ancient forests of

his novels. Closer to the city

centre, the Gothic Perrott’s

Folly and the Victorian

Edgbaston Waterworks

Tower may have inspired

The Two Towers.

Explore Shakespeare’s

hometown With its cobbled

streets and quaint Tudor

houses, William Shakespeare’s

hometown of Stratford-

upon-Avon is a cornucopia

of significant sites. From

Shakespeare’s Birthplace to

his final resting place at Holy

Trinity Church, some of the

How to

Getting here/around Birmingham’s Tolkien Trail will

require either a bus or a taxi, but Stratford-upon-Avon

is compact and walkable with good train links.

When to go Summer is the best time of year to visit,

although Stratford-upon-Avon can become crowded,

so plan your trip earlier in the week if possible.

No reading required Prior knowledge of the

literature isn’t needed to enjoy these historic sites

(but it helps).

LAND OF

Imagination

LITERATURE | CULTURE | HISTORY

36

169

Above Sarehole Mill

BIRMINGHAM

&

THE

MIDLANDS EXPERIENCES

JOHN

JAMES/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

ı

Modern Stories

of Birmingham

Bad Friday, Norman Smith

(1982) Set in the 1980s

among Birmingham’s Black

community, this forgotten

classic is a story about a

Black British generation

coming of age. A book about

racism and reggae, and the

first novel published by a

Black British writer.

Estates, Lynsey Hanley

(2007) Part memoir and

part social history, this book

uses Birmingham’s notorious

Chelmsley Wood housing

estate to chart changing

attitudes to housing and

class, in the Midlands and

across the country.

The Go-Between, Osman

Yousefzada (2022) A

memoir about growing up

in a devout Muslim family in

Balsall Heath, a multicultural

red-light district a few miles

south of the Bullring. A

dynamic portrait of Birming-

ham’s multicultural past and

present.

n By Dr Kieran

Connell, a

historian and

writer from

Birmingham and the author of

Multicultural Britain: A People’s

History @KConnellWriter

attractions here date back

over 500 years. Relax in the

Recreation Ground on the

bucolic tree-lined banks of the

River Avon, before taking the

chain-link ferry to see one of

the Bard’s plays at the Royal

Shakespeare Company

theatre.

Inside Lawrence’s

Nottinghamshire Though

DH Lawrence was widely

travelled, the stark coalfields

of his native Nottinghamshire

were the setting for some

of his greatest (and most

controversial) works. With

this early-20th-century

landscape as a backdrop

for classics such as Lady

Chatterley’s Lover, a good

place to start is the Blue

Line Trail in Lawrence’s

hometown of Eastwood. As

well as various locations from

his early life, it includes the

D.H. Lawrence Birthplace

Museum, an authentically

recreated miner’s cottage.

01

03

02

04

01 Sathnam

Sanghera

Award-winning writer

and journalist. Author

of The Boy With The

Topknot: A Memoir of

Love, Secrets and Lies in

Wolverhampton.

02 Caitlin Moran

Journalist, broadcaster

and author of several

books including How to

Be a Woman and How to

Build a Girl.

03 Stephen Knight

Screenwriter and

film director from

Birmingham. Creator

and co-writer of wildly

popular Birmingham-

based crime drama

Peaky Blinders.

04 Meera Syal

Wolverhampton-

born comedian,

writer, playwright,

journalist and actor.

Star and co-creator of

groundbreaking British

Asian TV comedy

Goodness Gracious Me.

170

Modern Midlands

STORYTELLERS

05

07

06

08

05 Benjamin

Zephaniah

Poet, writer, lyricist,

actor and musician

from Handsworth,

Birmingham. Well known

for his dub poetry, a

form of performance

poetry.

06 Amerah Saleh

Poet and spoken-word

artist from Birmingham.

Co-founder of Verve

Poetry Press and author

of I Am Not From Here.

07 Carl Chinn

Historian, broadcaster

and author of over 30

books on his native

Birmingham, including

the bestselling Peaky

Blinders: The Real Story.

08 Narinder Dhami

Children’s author from

Wolverhampton and

author of over 200

books, including the

popular Bindi Babes

series.

01 TOLGA AKMEN/AFP VIA GETTY IMAGES ©, 02 PHOTO BY STEFANIE KEENAN/GETTY IMAGES FOR AT&T, 03 BRITISH BROADCASTING CORPORATION (BBC)/ALBUM/

ALAMY STOCK PHOTO © & WENN RIGHTS LTD/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 04 COLLECTION CHRISTOPHEL/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO © & CUBANKITE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 05

DAVID CORIO/REDFERNS/GETTY IMAGES © & MIKE MARSLAND/WIREIMAGE/GETTY IMAGES ©, 06 PA IMAGES/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 07 ANTHONY STANLEY/WENN.

COM © BACKGROUND IMAGES FROM LEFT: KSANAGRAPHICA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, ABSTRACT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

171

Highbury Park

TIMOTHYENBLAKE/SHUTTERSTOCK

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Ħ Cool Cocktails & Craft Beer

Lucky 7

Low-lit Jewellery Quarter joint from cocktail

alchemists Rob and Kyndra, inspired by East

Asia’s izakaya culture. Don’t miss the sublime

Mellow Yellow.

Couch

Laid-back cocktail bar in the Stirchley neigh-

bourhood with a thematic menu based on TV

shows and movies. Comfy sofas, blues play-

lists and chatty bar staff make for a convivial

atmosphere.

Wolf

Revolving craft beer list alongside delectable

toasted sandwiches and indulgent pies that

pair perfectly with the drinks. Quality Sunday

roasts, too.

Wellington

A gloriously unpretentious pub on Bennetts

Hill that’s free of pumping music or jaunty de-

cor. ‘The Welly’ offers eight regular beers and

a revolving door of nine different guest ales.

š Green Spaces & Views

Highbury Park

Highbury Park’s winding paths meander

through lush forest and quiet lakes despite its

location near Kings Heath’s bustling High St.

Elegant Victorian mansion Highbury Hall is

also part of the park.

Beacon Hill

The 300m-high summit of Beacon Hill in the

Lickey Hills offers stunning views of Birming-

ham’s skyline to the north and the distant

Malvern Hills to the south.

Cannock Chase

This elevated heathland 20 miles north

of Birmingham is a former royal forest,

populated by dense woodland and small

lakes with extensive walking and cycling trails

throughout.

H Exquisite Eating

Wilderness

£££

Eating here is unlike most fine-dining expe-

riences largely thanks to the charcoal-black

interior and pounding rock soundtrack.

The 10-course tasting menu also features

Birmingham’s most creative dessert course.

Chakana

££

Birmingham’s first Peruvian restaurant is a

highlight of a trip to bohemian Moseley. Chef

Robert Ortiz’ carefully crafted tasting menu is

a bold tour through the cuisine of Peru.

SOI 1268

££

Laid-back neighbourhood Thai spot in

Stirchley with a reassuringly short menu. The

chunky sesame-covered king prawn toasts

are an aromatic delight.

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

172

BIRMINGHAM

&

THE

MIDLANDS REVIEWS

Tiger Bites Pig

£

Intimate East Asian street-food joint in

Birmingham specialising in delicately cooked

bao packed with rich flavours. Its braised-

pork-belly rice bowls are an indulgent blend of

sweet, savoury and succulent.

Ĳ Arts & Galleries

Birmingham Museum & Art Gallery

The BMAG features a vast collection of fine

art, archaeology and ceramics, though its

most impressive space is arguably the stun-

ning Round Room on the 1st floor.

Barber Institute of Fine Arts

Quiet art deco museum hidden within the

grounds of the University of Birmingham con-

taining a splendid collection of little-known

works from the likes of Monet, Turner and

Van Gogh.

ħ Quality Coffee

Damascena

£

Middle Eastern institution with five branches

across the city. Its rich Turkish coffee is splen-

did and comes with cubes of Turkish delight

on the side.

Faculty

£

Quality brews and home-baked cakes sitting

just a stone’s throw from New Street Station.

The best place to grab a coffee before

travelling.

Ę Spa Experiences

Malvern Spa

Italian-influenced spa at the foot of the Mal-

vern Hills with a relaxing indoor-outdoor hy-

drotherapy pool and soothing steam rooms.

Features a Kelo sauna built from naturally

fragrant Arctic Circle wood.

Aqua Sana

Two-storey forest spa in Nottinghamshire set

around a heated outdoor pool. Offers 25 spa

experiences across six zones, including the

Treetop Sauna’s peaceful forest panoramas.

Ragdale Hall

Victorian house spa in rural Leicestershire

featuring a 35°C rooftop infinity pool with roll-

ing countryside unfurling beneath. Also has a

candle cave and volcanic salt bath.

H Best for Brunch

Ju Ju’s

££

The heartiest of homemade food available

all day with warm service in a quiet canalside

corner of Birmingham city centre. It makes

one of the city’s best Sunday roasts.

Cherry Reds

£

Friendly Birmingham bistro with an outdoor

terrace and a spacious upstairs. Serves excel-

lent full English breakfasts, while its fine beer

selection gives added reason to stay longer.

Ragdale Hall

KUMAR

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STOCK

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173

BIRMINGHAM

&

THE

MIDLANDS REVIEWS

YORKSHIRE &

THE NORTHEAST

ACTIVE | OUTDOORS | HISTORY

u Riding the Rails

to Haworth (p180)

u How Whitby Became

the North’s Queen of

Quirk (p182)

u Modern British Food

in Medieval York (p184)

u A Film Tour of

Yorkshire (p186)

u Exploring the

Dales (p190)

u Outdoor Sculpture in

the Northeast (p192)

u Newcastle-upon-Tyne

Then & Now (p194)

u Seafood & Salty Air on

the Coast (p196)

u Listings (p198)

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L A N C A S H I R E

N O R T H U M B E R L A N D

S C O T L A N D

C U M B R I A

Liverpool

Bay

Solway

Firth

Irish Sea

Morecambe

Bay

Derwent

Reservoir

Kielder

Water

Isle of

Man

Lake District

National Park

Northumberland

National Park

Yorkshire Dales

National Park

Forest of

Bowland

R

i

b

b

l

e

We

ar

E

ll

e

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h

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Haworth

Settle

Skipton

Keighley

Haltwhistle Hexham

Brampton

Carlisle

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50 km

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25 miles

e

Dig up Roman Empire history

along Hadrian’s Wall (p200)

ŉ 45mins from Newcastle

Hop between cosy

village pubs in the

Yorkshire Dales (p190)

ŉ/Ġ 30mins from Leeds

Bracing, beautiful and welcoming, this vast

swathe of THE north has deep roots. Yorkshire and

Northumberland hold the keys to some of England’s

most important historical treasures, but the

region is also famous for its beaches,

islands and idyllic rural backwaters.

YORKSHIRE &

THE NORTHEAST

Trip Builder

Chug through Brontë Country

by train from Keighley, ending in

time-warped Haworth (p181)

ŉ 30mins from Leeds

YORKSHIRE

&

THE

NORTHEAST BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

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N O R T H

Y O R K S H I R E

Farne

Islands

E A S T

R I D I N G

W E S T

Y O R K S H I R E

S O U T H

Y O R K S H I R E

Northu

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la

nd

C

o

a

st

North Sea

Embleton Bay

D U R H A M

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Holy Island (Lindisfarne)

North York Moors

National Park

Ty

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e

Ou

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De

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we

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Tees

Hu

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A

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D

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e

n

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C

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u

e

t

Morpeth

Malton

Whitby

Harrogate

Bridlington

Selby

Whitley Bay

Knaresborough

Guisborough

Beverley

Pontefract

York

Newcastle-upon-Tyne

Alnwick

Darlington

Tynemouth

Sunderland

Leeds

Scarborough

6

I F

v

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6

Y S

F

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@

Y

Ő

R

Get a taste for medieval York

through its food (p184)

ŉ 1hr from Newcastle

Explore the northeast’s art

pedigree at the Yorkshire

Sculpture Park (p192)

Ň 40mins from Wakefield

Discover Dracula’s legacy

in Whitby (p182)

Ň 2½hrs from York

Cross the tides to Holy Island on a

personal pilgrimage (p196)

Ň 30mins from Berwick-upon-Tweed

Join locals at Riley’s on Tynemouth

beach for a slap-up seafood feast (p197)

ŉ 30mins from Newcastle

Discover the creative pulse of Newcastle-upon-

Tyne inside its Victorian landmarks (p194)

ŉ 1hr from York

Unleash your fandom on

a Bridgerton-inspired tour

of Castle Howard (p187)

ń 30mins from York

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SHUTTERSTOCK ©, DAVE HEAD/

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COUSIN/SHUTTERSTOCK

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178

Practicalities

HOW MUCH

FOR A

YORKSHIRE

&

THE

NORTHEAST FIND

YOUR

FEET

Fish and chips

takeaway

£7–10

Heritage site

admission

£15–25

Pint of craft beer

£6

WHEN TO GO

GETTING AROUND

Train and bus Tyne and Wear’s

excellent Metro system connects

Newcastle Airport with Newcastle,

and Tynemouth and Whitley Bay

on the coast. Mainline trains

connect Leeds and York with

smaller towns in Yorkshire and up

into Northumberland. Buses are

often your only option between

smaller towns; a car is essential

for rural areas.

ARRIVING

Train The main rail hubs are York (pictured),

Leeds and Newcastle. Direct trains from London

are run by LNER (lner.co.uk); the fastest trips are

1¾ hours, 2¼ hours and 2¾ hours respectively.

York is on the Newcastle line, which goes north to

Edinburgh Waverley in Scotland.

Air There are two international airports: Leeds

Bradford and Newcastle. There are bus and coach

options between Leeds Bradford Airport and Leeds

city centre, while Newcastle’s Metro whisks travel-

lers straight to the city centre. Newcastle also has

direct flights to and from London Heathrow.

Taxi Uber operates in the bigger

cities, along with dozens of local

firms. Smaller towns, villages and

rural areas may only have one or

two taxis servicing the area so

always try to book ahead.

Walking Yorkshire and Northum-

berland are criss-crossed with

long-distance hiking paths and lots

of country inns cater for walk-in

hikers; when the weather plays

ball, there’s no better way to travel.

JAN–MAR

Post-Christmas hibernation

time; look for ultra-cheap hotel

deals.

JUL–SEP

Peak time for festivals and

domestic travel; book accom-

modation well in advance.

APR–JUN

Easter kick-starts tourism, but

weather is unpredictable and

often chilly.

OCT–DEC

Whitby Goth Weekend marks

Halloween; locals cosy up by

pub fires.

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179

YORKSHIRE

&

THE

NORTHEAST FIND

YOUR

FEET

WHERE TO STAY

The northeast is a popular domestic holiday destination so expect

plenty of competition for beds. Family accommodation is in high

demand during the school holidays (Easter, late May, July and August).

EATING & DRINKING

The northeast is all about comfort food. Yorkshire has pork pies and

steak-and-ale pies with butter-rich shortcrust pastry, traditionally served

with mushy peas; and Yorkshire pudding (pictured top right), the famous

savoury batter cake served with Sunday roasts. Further north are stottie

cakes (a thick doughy flatbread) and pease pudding (pictured bottom

right; a thick split pea porridge, typically served with ham). The coast is

famous for Whitby crab and Craster kippers (smoked herring). Craft beer

breweries and artisanal gin distilleries are flourishing across the region.

Best fish and chips Magpie (p198)

Must-try craft gin Harrogate Tipple (p199)

MONEY

It’s easy to travel cashless in this region – in fact,

some bars and shops no longer accept cash pay-

ments. If you’re visiting the coast, bring small change

for the old-fashioned seaside penny arcades.

TAP WATER

Tap water is drinkable in the

northeast. Bring a reusable

water bottle instead of buying

single-use plastic bottles. You can

also ask for tap water in restau-

rants and bars.

CONNECT & FIND YOUR WAY

Wi-fi Central York has free wi-fi

zones, as do Newcastle city centre

and Quayside. Free wi-fi is also

ubiquitous in public institutions,

cafes, pubs and restaurants.

Navigation Look for city maps

at tourist offices if you don’t

have access to online satnav, or

download offline maps before

setting out on foot.

Place

Pro/Con

York

Beautiful medieval centre. Good transport

links. Big crowds; noisy weekend drinking.

Whitby

Lots of accommodation. Restaurants, pubs

and activities galore. Blue Flag beach. High

demand; sunshine crowds.

Helmsley

Pretty North York Moors market town. Top-

class restaurants; award-winning spa at

Feversham Arms. Good base for exploring

by car.

Yorkshire

Dales

Excellent hiking and country views. Glamping,

camping and country cottages. Remote; car

is essential. Skinny roads and scary driving.

Kielder

Rural glamping and lodges. World-class

stargazing. Outdoor activities around Kielder

Water and Forest Park. Car essential.

Northumber-

land Coast

AONB

Excellent beaches, historical villages and

wildlife. Access to islands. Good transport

connections.

180

YORKSHIRE

&

THE

NORTHEAST EXPERIENCES

# Ù

#

W E S T

Y O R K S H I R E

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Haworth

Keighley

Oxenhope

Oakworth

Ingrow West

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2 km

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1 mile

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To understand the raw power of Brontë

Country – where the famous

sisters penned classic novels including

Wuthering Heights and Jane Eyre –

you need to chug through its brooding

moors and time-warped villages on the

19th-century Keighley & Worth Valley

Railway. The train stops at Haworth, an

attractive country town where fans can

visit the Brontë Parsonage Museum,

one of Yorkshire’s top attractions.

West Yorkshire’s KWVR

didn’t open until 1867,

12 years after the last Brontë

sister (Charlotte) died. But

this heritage steam railway is

still very much of the sisters’

era and it’s easy to feel like a

contemporary of the Brontës

riding its well-worn rails

through the lush Worth Valley

to their home in Haworth. It

was originally built to serve

the local mills – although

only 4.5 miles long, the

journey crams in six stations.

Since 1968 it’s been kept

alive by a dedicated commu-

nity of volunteers.

Keighley The starting point

for journeys on the KWVR,

connecting with frequent

national rail services to

Leeds and Bradford. Trains to

Haworth depart from Platform

4, which still has its original

waiting room and a wrought-

iron-and-glass canopy.

Ingrow West Jump off to

visit the Rail Story, which

includes the Engine Shed

How to

Getting here Buy tickets for Keighley & Worth

Valley Railway (KWVR) at kwvr.co.uk. A Day Rover

(£22) gives unlimited rides and is 15% cheaper if

booked three days in advance.

When to go In late May, Haworth hosts its annual

1940s weekend, with stalls, music and period dress-

up. Follow @Haworth1940s for dates.

What to watch The 1970 classic The Railway

Children was filmed along this rail line, as was the

2022 The Railway Children Returns sequel.

Riding the Rails to

HAWORTH

HISTORY | RAIL | LITERATURE

37

181

Above Main St, Haworth

YORKSHIRE

&

THE

NORTHEAST EXPERIENCES

ATGIMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

s

Haworth Beyond the

Brontë Parsonage

Though Haworth may look

like a quaint idyll of British

country life, it has an alterna-

tive side. Cobbled, photo-

genic Main St is an eclectic

mash-up of design boutiques,

vintage shops, cafes and

pubs. Haworth became the

world’s first Fairtrade village

in 2002. Then in 2005 it

was officially twinned with

Machu Picchu. The (fairly

unobvious) reasons for that

pairing included the fact that

both places have rich textile

histories, are surrounded

by dramatic valleys and are

served by steam trains. After

a bracing prowl along the

surrounding moor tops, visit

Haworth Steam Brewing Co

for locally made ales, Haworth

gins and pies.

museum of railway history

and a fine collection of

restored railway carriages at

the Carriage Works. At the

latter, you can also see the

workshop where volunteers

repair the vintage carriages.

Oakworth Considered the

best restored station on the

line, this Edwardian beauty

shot to fame in the 1970

Railway Children film starring

Jenny Agutter.

Oxenhope The end of

the line, one stop on from

Haworth. Hikers can pick up

the Brontë Way – a 44-mile

cross-Pennine trail linking

various places associated

with the Brontës and their

works – from the village cen-

tre. The Lamb Inn (lamb

-oxenhope.co.uk) is a

traditional village pub worth

stopping at for a pint, with a

terrace that gives an eyeful of

classic Brontë moorland.

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182

YORKSHIRE

&

THE

NORTHEAST ESSAY

Left WhitbyAbbey

Centre Dracula head decoration

Right Goth Weekend

How

Whitby

Became

the North’s

Queen of

Quirk

DRACULA, GOTHS AND

STEAMPUNK ON THE

YORKSHIRE COAST

From its earliest days,

Whitby has been home

to dark tales that would

make your toes curl.

The town is riddled

with legends, haunted

by ghosts and home to

witches. Dracula links

have made it a Goth

capital and more recently

it’s become a platform

for Victorian-inspired

steampunk aesthetic.

Welcome to Yorkshire’s

alternative side.

Ghosts & Gossip

Whitby’s magnetic pull can be traced back over 1500

years to a powerful northern abbess. When Whitby

Abbey – now a gaunt hilltop ruin – was founded by St Hild

in 657 CE, it became one of the world’s most important

Anglo-Saxon religious centres. But Hild’s local fame was

secured by a legend dating to the Middle Ages, which tells

of the abbess vanquishing a plague of snakes by driving

them off the top of the abbey cliff and turning them to

stone with the heat of her rage. These ‘stone snakes’ can

still be found on local beaches today – they’re ammonites.

Hild’s ancient myth is classic Whitby: this sea-lashed

Yorkshire town has always felt at ease with the macabre

and offbeat. Karl Wittering – aka Dr Crank – of Whitby

Ghost Walks believes this could be to do with its out-of-

the-way location, far from any major towns and cities.

‘Whitby is an unusual place in that, because it’s quite

isolated, when people come to Whitby they feel it’s got

a different atmosphere,’ he says. The town and nearby

villages have long been home to women who identify

as witches; the Whitby Witches were even spun into a

popular youth fiction series by Robin Jarvis in the 1990s.

Ghouls lurk around every corner; there are famous tales of

Hild’s ghost, a funeral carriage pulled by headless horses,

and the Barghest, a monstrous black dog terrorising

fishermen’s wives.

Bram Stoker’s Love Letter to Whitby

Having lived in the Whitby area for more than 20 years,

Karl has seen the town flourish as it embraced its most

famous Gothic legacy. ‘It all boils down to Dracula, and the

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183

Dracula arrives in

England on a ship, the

Demeter, which blows

into Whitby Harbour

with the corpse of its

captain tied to the helm.

YORKSHIRE

&

THE

NORTHEAST ESSAY

fact that Bram Stoker stayed in Whitby and started to write

Dracula when he was here on holiday,’ he explains. In Stoker’s

novel, Dracula arrives in England on a ship, the Demeter, which

blows into Whitby Harbour with the corpse of its captain tied

to the helm.

Dracula was published in 1897, but it took a full century for

Goth culture to really take hold in Whitby. In the late 1990s

the town launched its first

Goth Weekend; the event

has since grown into an

annual highlight with stalls,

balls and music nights. The

weekends run twice a year,

at Halloween and the end of

April, attracting thousands

of Goths who promenade

around the town in their dark

finery. Although undoubtedly influenced by the vampire’s rise

to fame as a Hollywood legend, the movement in Whitby has

always had a lot to do with alternative music.‘A lot of people

come for the Goth bands, and this is the most popular thing,’

says Karl. Accommodation in Whitby is like gold dust on these

weekends, but the spectacle and atmosphere are unique.

Even outside the Goth weekends, fans come to Whitby to

tour the sights. There’s the immersive Dracula Experience on

Marine Pde and the Bram Stoker Memorial Seat on West Cliff

near the hotel where he stayed, looking over to Whitby Abbey.

Staff at St Mary’s Church in front of the abbey say they can’t

count the number of times they’ve had to tell fans Dracula

isn’t real, when they come searching for his tombstone in the

graveyard. Karl also runs Dracula walking tours around Whitby.

ť

The Rise of

Steampunk

In recent years Whitby has

also become a home for

steampunk – a movement

that plays with science

fiction, vintage fashion and

steam-powered technology –

with two weekend events a

year, in February and July.

Karl Wittering believes its

growing popularity is due

to Whitby’s acceptance of

countercultures.‘If you held

a steampunk or a Goth week-

end in the middle of Leeds or

Manchester, you may be open

to ridicule,’he says.‘You’re not

threatened no matter what

you wear in Whitby. It’s really

obvious that…people feel safe

when they come to Whitby.’

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184

YORKSHIRE

&

THE

NORTHEAST EXPERIENCES

How to

Getting around Within

the medieval city walls,

York’s centre is compact

and a joy to explore

on foot.

When to go Several of

York’s best restaurants

close on Mondays and

sometimes also on Tues-

days. Weekends can be

extremely busy; Wednes-

days and Thursdays are a

good time to visit.

Michelin stars In

2021, Roots (rootsyork.

com) became York’s

first Michelin-starred

restaurant, helmed by

self-taught Yorkshire chef

Tommy Banks. Book up to

three months ahead.

Modern British Food in

MEDIEVAL YORK

FOOD | HISTORY | CULTURE

38

Vikings, Romans and medieval Plantagenet kings have all

left their mark on pretty York, making the city one of the UK’s

best destinations for history lovers. But inside the 12th-century

fortified walls, beneath the bars (gates) and between the Georgian

townhouses, a new York is emerging – one where tradition mingles

with 21st-century kitchen innovation to create one of the north’s best

food and drink scenes.

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Left York’s Chocolate Story

Below Yorkshire pudding wrap

YORKSHIRE

&

THE

NORTHEAST EXPERIENCES

City of chocolate In the 18th and 19th centuries, York was

home to the world’s most prolific confectionary entrepreneurs,

including Terry and Rowntree – some York residents can still

remember the days when the streets smelled of chocolate.

Mass production moved away in the 20th century, but in 2018

York Cocoa Works revived the city’s chocolate making with an

artisan factory inside the medieval walls. You can take a tour,

try a bean-to-bar workshop or order a hot chocolate so thick

you can almost stand a spoon on it. For more on the history,

visit the York Chocolate Story museum.

Yorkshire’s favourite pudding Light, crispy and the crowning

glory of a British Sunday roast dinner – the savoury batter cake

known as a Yorkshire pudding was first described as a local spe-

ciality in the 1700s. Today, York Roast Co has created a popular

bastardisation: a portable roast dinner wrapped inside a large

Yorkshire pudding. People queue for the YorkyPud wraps at this

family-run takeaway; options include roast pork, turkey, ham or

beef with roasted carrots and fluffy potatoes, stuffing and gravy.

Modern street food Launched in 2018 on the edge of the me-

dieval centre, Spark: York’s jumble of brightly painted shipping

containers proved divisive when it first opened. Inside, it houses

20 small independent food, drink and retail units. It’s been huge-

ly beneficial for the city’s dining scene, allowing innovative food

entrepreneurs to test-run their concepts without large capital in-

vestment. Come for natural wines, organic burgers and seasonal

pizzas with a side of lively music. One of the shipping containers

also includes Grow it York – an aeroponic urban farm.

H

York’s Best Food &

Drink Experiences

For a relaxed glass of wine,

it’s hard to beat Pairings,

where you can also graze

small plates or deli platters.

If beer’s more your thing,

you’ll often find me in the

Phoenix enjoying a pint –

food here stops at pork pies

and pickled eggs!

Event dining in the city

doesn’t get better than

Legacy at the Grand, with

inventive dishes in a stun-

ning environment. Fish &

Forest on Grape La delivers

some of the region’s best

seafood.

Skosh is a star of our

city’s rapidly developing

food scene, drawing

national plaudits and a Bib

Gourmand for very good

reason. Book in advance.

n By Ben

Thorpe,

York-based food

and lifestyle

blogger at yorkonafork.com

and Great Taste Awards judge

@yorkonafork

186

YORKSHIRE

&

THE

NORTHEAST EXPERIENCES

HISTORY | FANDOM | CULTURE

39

Ever since Louis Le Prince

shot the world’s first film in

Leeds in 1888, Yorkshire has been

entwined with the moving image.

Today the region rivals London

as one of the UK’s top shooting

locations for film and TV, and

there are dozens of famous screen

sites open to visitors.

A Film Tour of

YORKSHIRE

RICHARD

COOMBER/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

Ĵ Bradford City of Film

Bradford became UNESCO’s

first City of Film in 2009, in

recognition of the city’s rich

cinematic heritage. In the

early to mid-1900s the area

was a hopping centre of film

production. The excellent

National Science and

Media Museum carries exhi-

bitions about this chapter of

Yorkshire history; the tourist

office has a downloadable

city film trail (bradford-city

-of-film.com).

LEONID

ANDRONOV/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

PETE

STUART/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

187

Above left Castle Howard

Above National Science and Media Museum

Left Stripey Badger (p188)

YORKSHIRE

&

THE

NORTHEAST EXPERIENCES

Castle Howard

The fact that Yorkshire has such a high concen-

tration of well-preserved country estates is one

of the reasons it’s become a favoured filming

region with location scouts. And Castle Howard

is the mother of all country estates. Wedged into

the Howardian Hills Area of Outstanding Natural

Beauty, the 3600-hectare estate has served

as a filming backdrop since the 1960s. Sophia

Loren graced its gardens in 1965 and Stanley

Kubrick shot here in the 1970s. In the 1980s, the

18th-century domed mansion became famous

as the home of the Brideshead Revisited TV

series. More recently, ITV’s Victoria filmed in the

Long Gallery. The estate played a starring role

in the first season of Bridgerton, as the country

home of the Duke of Hastings. There’s a behind-

the-scenes Brideshead Revisited exhibition on

the mansion’s 1st floor. Down on the main lawn,

How to

Getting around

Many of Yorkshire’s

most famous filming

locations (country

estates, small villages,

railway stations) are in

rural areas, meaning

you’ll need a car if you

want to tour the most

significant sites.

Costs Malham and

Grassington are free

to enter, but expect

to pay entrance fees

for any heritage sites;

money goes towards

upkeep.

Visit Filmedinyorkshire.

com is an excellent

resource for more

information on all the

filming locations open

to visitors and what

they’ve starred in.

188

hunt out the gilt-framed selfie station for the

perfect cinematic shot of the house.

Fountains Abbey & Studley Royal

Combining 18th-century water gardens,

walking trails and 12th-century abbey ruins,

this UNESCO-listed site on the edge of the

Yorkshire Dales inspires film crews as much

as day trippers. After many TV appearances,

in 2020 it hit the big screen in the Colin Firth

adaptation of Frances Hodgson Burnett’s The

Secret Garden. Head for the riverside abbey

cloister, which was transformed for the film

into a sunken temple reclaimed by the woods.

Grassington

The rural location of this tiny town – a popular

Dales hiking base surrounded by swathes

of rolling hills, bleating sheep and drystone

walls – made it a perfect match for Darrowby

in the 2020 adaptation of James Herriot’s All

Creatures Great and Small. Filming locations in-

cluded the Devonshire Inn, whose exterior be-

came Herriot’s Drovers Arms, and the Stripey

ť

What’s So Special

about Hull?

For its sheer diversity of potential

film locations, Yorkshire takes

some beating. One under-the-

radar destination that’s becom-

ing increasingly popular with

filmmakers is the east coast city

of Hull. The buildings on Alfred

Gelder Street have doubled for

Westminster, and Hull Old Town

works incredibly well as a stand-

in for Victorian London, with its

narrow alleys and cobbled streets

around the High St. The Netflix

film Enola Holmes was shot there,

as was the high-profile feature

film The Personal History of David

Copperfield starring Dev Patel.

Hull is a brilliant regeneration sto-

ry and has an important maritime

history – definitely worth a visit.

More recently, Hull’s Old Town

was transformed into 1940s war-

time London for Steve McQueen’s

2024 Apple TV film Blitz.

n By Richard Knight,

filming locations scout,

Screen Yorkshire

@screen_yorkshire

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189

YORKSHIRE

&

THE

NORTHEAST EXPERIENCES

Badger bookshop. Stop by the bookshop cafe – it

takes little imagination to see how the set designers

turned the shopfront into a 1930s greengrocers.

North Yorkshire Moors Railway

The NYMR chugs for 18 miles through six tiny

heritage stations between Whitby and Pickering.

Its valley scenery, vintage carriages and steam

engines press all the right buttons with location

scouts. In 2021 a stretch of track near Grosmont

was commandeered for a Nazi shoot-em-up scene

in the fifth Indiana Jones film. Goathland is the

most famous stop – it played Hogsmeade Station

in the first three Harry Potter films, and the village

itself is known for having played Aidensfield in the

long-running TV drama Heartbeat.

Malham Cove

A geographical highlight of the spectacular 5-mile

Malham Landscape Trail, Malham Cove played

a memorable role in Harry Potter and the Deathly

Hallows. It’s on the cracked limestone pavement,

about 80m above the natural amphitheatre, that

Harry and Hermione set up camp when they

go into hiding. It’s less than a mile’s walk from

Malham village, skirting a babbling river. Take the

steep steps to the left of the cove to reach the

limestone pavement. In spring, look out for pere-

grine falcon nests in the rocks as you climb.

190

YORKSHIRE

&

THE

NORTHEAST EXPERIENCES

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Gentle hills, river wading and

rolling farmland punctuated by old

stone villages: this 80-mile walking

path sums up everything that’s

delightful about the Yorkshire Dales

National Park – and it’s often extremely

quiet. Tackle a section in the heart of

the dales as a morning amble or day

hike, or plan a multiday trek staying in

shepherd’s huts and village inns.

The lifeblood of the Dales

Way is the water that gurgles

at your feet for most of

the trail. The River Wharfe

follows the section between

Ilkley and Grassington, and

it’s particularly beautiful

along the stretch north of

the 12th-century Bolton

Abbey, where the national

park landscapes take over.

The walk passes through

Bolton Estate. Stop to linger

at the stepping stones and

river beach beneath the

abbey ruins. A little further

north you’ll pass the Strid,

a famous photo op where

the water is forced through a

narrow gorge.

Small, shallow river beaches

can also be found on the ap-

proach to Burnsall. This sec-

tion of the river is navigable

and in summer it’s popular

with kayakers and children

in inflatable rowboats; boats

and oars can sometimes

be bought at a stall on the

village field before Burnsall’s

How to

Getting here/around Northern trains (northern

railway.co.uk) run from Leeds to the trailhead at

Ilkley (30 minutes) every half-hour. You’ll need a car

to reach trail stages deep in the national park.

When to go For the best chance of sunshine and

minimal rain, come in late spring or summer.

Picnic fodder In Ilkley, pick up fat rascals from

Bettys, Yorkshire charcuterie from the award-

winning Lishman’s Butchers, or takeaway sandwich-

es from New Brook Street Deli to fuel your walk.

Exploring the

DALES

HIKING | VILLAGES | OUTDOORS

40

191

Above The Strid

YORKSHIRE

&

THE

NORTHEAST EXPERIENCES

TRAVELLIGHT/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

ć

Dark Skies

in the Dales

In December 2020, the York-

shire Dales National Park was

designated an International

Dark Sky Reserve after a five-

year campaign. The reserve

also includes the neigh-

bouring NorthYork Moors

National Park. Together they

make up the largest dark-sky

area in the UK, covering

1396 sq miles. There’s an

annual Dark Skies Festival

(darkskiesnationalparks.org.

uk) held across both parks

each year in late February,

with a satellite festival in

October; events include

astrophotography, dark-sky

runs and dine-and-gaze

events. A growing number of

Dales B&Bs are also offering

dark-sky packages, such

as Pry House Farm B&B in

remote Upper Swaledale

(upperswaledaleholidays.

co.uk).

Grade II–listed bridge. The

field is often full of picnickers

on summer weekends.

Appletreewick A delightful

hillside village overlook-

ing Simon’s Seat, with

two excellent village pubs

(Craven Arms is the pick for

food and shepherd’s huts)

and Masons Campsite

(masonscampsite.co.uk) at

the foot of the hill.

Burnsall The ivy-clad Red

Lion (redlion.co.uk) pub

serves good Sunday roasts

and has a riverside terrace.

Kettlewell Deep in the na-

tional park, stop for a drink –

or bed – at the Bluebell Inn

(bluebellkettlewell.com). In

August, time your visit with

the Kettlewell Scarecrow

Festival.

Ribblehead Where the Dales

Way crosses the Pennine Way;

usually hopping with hikers,

who come to see the Victorian

Ribblehead Viaduct.

01 Yorkshire

Sculpture Park,

Wakefield

Damien Hirst, Ai Weiwei,

Barbara Hepworth and

David Nash are among

the gold-standard cast

at this linchpin of the

Yorkshire Sculpture

Triangle, spread over

200 hectares on the

18th-century Breton

estate.

02 Himalayan

Garden &

Sculpture Park,

Yorkshire Dales

Stroll around rhododen-

drons and magnolias to

find more than 80 sculp-

tures in harmony with

nature at this secret,

18-hectare haven.

03 Thirsk Hall

Sculpture Garden

Inaugurated in 2021

to showcaseYorkshire

sculptor Michael Lyons,

who died in 2019. His con-

temporary constructions

of iron and steel strikingly

jar with the 18th-century

backdrop of Thirsk Hall.

04 Forbidden

Corner, Yorkshire

Dales

A 1.6-hectare garden

labyrinth of bizarre,

Gothic follies designed

to scare, intrigue and

delight.

05 We are Only Hu-

man (incomplete

sculpture to be

finished by snow)

This brutalist-looking

concrete sculpture by

Ryan Gander mimics a

dolos, which are stacked

on beaches as a defence

against coastal erosion.

On Scarborough Castle

Headland, it’s the first

piece in an ambitious

new Yorkshire Coast

sculpture trail.

01

05

04

03

02

192

Outdoor Sculpture in the

NORTHEAST

06 Whitby Whale

Bone Arch

An epitaph to Whitby’s

18th-century heritage

as a whaling port. The

original jaw bone was

erected in the 19th

century, but this one

is a replica donated by

Alaska in 2003.

07 Angel of the North

At 20m high and with

a wingspan of 54m,

Antony Gormley’s

seminal work is almost

as big as a jumbo jet.

Erected in 1998 on a

former coal-mining site,

it watches over the A1

motorway approach to

Newcastle.

08 Conversation

Piece, South

Shields

There are 22 of these

bronze, child-sized

figures by Spanish

sculptor Juan Muñoz,

frozen in motion near

Littlehaven Beach.

09 Siren and

Tyne River God,

Newcastle Quay

André Wallace’s playful

plinth sculptures have

faced each other across

the quayside since 1996.

The River God is blowing

at the Siren across

the water, hence her

unimpressed look.

10 Kielder

Forest Art and

Architecture Trail

Woodland and water

provide an atmospheric

backdrop for the timber,

stone and concrete

installations around this

northeast reservoir.

01 ALASTAIR WALLACE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 02 STEVE GILL PHOTOGRAPHY /SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 03 JOHN MORRISON/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©,04 CERNAN ELIAS/

ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 05 IAN PILBEAM/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, 06 NIGEL JARVIS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 07 DAVIDGRAHAM86/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

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©

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IMAGING/ALAMY

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©

194

YORKSHIRE

&

THE

NORTHEAST

EXPERIENCES

How to

Getting here/around

Newcastle is well

connected by air, road

and rail. Arrive by train

to admire the Victorian

station’s curving roof.

The Metro will whizz you

around the city.

Cross the river The

town of Gateshead sits

on the Tyne’s south bank

and is also home to

some dazzling quayside

developments.

Local talk Folk living

around the Tyne often

refer to themselves

as ‘Geordies’. Calling

something ‘canny’

denotes enthusiastic

approval.

Newcastle-upon-Tyne

THEN & NOW

ARCHITECTURE | CULTURE | FOOD

41

With its eye-catching neoclassical centre and imposing red-

brick factories, Newcastle proclaims its heritage as a former industrial

powerhouse. Today, following years of neglect, these buildings are

whirring back into life – this time fuelled by artists, independents and

a strong community spirit. Spend time peering behind Newcastle’s

19th-century facades to feel the city’s creative pulse.

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Seven Stories:

The National Centre

for Children’s Books

D

(425m)

Victoria

Tunnel

195

Left Grainger Market

Below Seven Stories: The National

Centre for Children’s Books

YORKSHIRE

&

THE

NORTHEAST EXPERIENCES

Central gems Elegant Grainger Town was designed in the

1830s to showcase Newcastle’s growing prosperity. Soak in

the sweeping Georgian sandstone frontages of Grey Street,

then join bargain-hunting locals in the Grade I–listed Grainger

Market. This vast, high-ceilinged hall harbours an alluring

mix of old and new, including traditional greengrocers, the

oldest-surviving Marks & Spencer Penny Bazaar, voguish

vintage and vinyl shops, a zero-waste store and a diversity of

street food.

Cultural oasis Ouseburn Valley was once the city’s industrial

cradle. Now its regenerated factories and warehouses host

artists’ studios, microbreweries and pulsating music venues.

Begin at the Biscuit Factory, the UK’s largest independent

commercial gallery. Here you can eyeball contemporary

artworks against the backdrop of Victorian brickwork before

heading to the rooftop terrace for coffee, cake and panoramic

views. Children (and their parents) will also enjoy getting lost

in the exhibitions at Seven Stories: The National Centre for

Children’s Books. Plan ahead to catch one of the whimsical

performances in the magical attic space of this former flour-

mill storehouse.

Going underground Wander below the city’s streets by

touring the 2.5-mile Victoria Tunnel. Atmospheric history

walks, led by the non-profit Ouseburn Trust, tell how this

19th-century wagonway has served as both a coal transport

system and wartime air-raid shelter. Look out for the

occasional subterranean wine tastings and concerts here.

H

Grainger Market

Foodie Stops

SnackWallah Indian

vegan dishes inspired

by owner Ravi’s Mumbai

childhood. Order the

crispy semolina-based

pani puri, served with

homemade mango

chutney.

Dumpling and Bun Busy

cubbyhole specialising in

traditional fresh-to-order

Chinese street food. Try

the chilli beef steamed

dumplings.

Geordie Banger Treat

yourself to a great-value,

home-crafted sausage on

a stick at this stall owned

by a third-generation

butcher.

Firebrick Small friendly

outpost of this indepen-

dent local brewery, pour-

ing blonde beers, IPAs and

traditional brown ales.

Redheads Mac ’n’

Cheese A popular spot

for yummy comfort food.

Also find it at the bustling

Sunday Quayside Market.

n By Amy

Whitfield,

owner of Triple

A Food Tours,

Newcastle @tripleafoodtours

GAIL

JOHNSON/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

196

YORKSHIRE

&

THE

NORTHEAST EXPERIENCES

Seafood & Salty Air on

THE COAST

BEACHES | LOCAL FOOD | ACTIVITIES

Between Newcastle and Berwick-upon-Tweed, a string

of historic seaside villages and glorious beaches are ripe for

exploration – spot puffins by boat, feast on seasonal catch and join

locals in the bracing waters of the North Sea.

42

Trip Notes

Getting here Newcastle is the gateway to the Northumberland and Tyne and

Wear coast, with frequent daily LNER trains from London which travel via

Leeds.

When to go The northeast’s coastal waters are chilly year-round – consider

packing a wetsuit. June to September offers the best chance of sunshine.

Where to stay Seahouses has the biggest concentration of accommodation

but lacks the character of other villages along this coastline; try Alnmouth or

Bamburgh instead.

E Holy Island

Cut off from the mainland

twice a day by the North

Sea, tiny Lindisfarne is

an important pilgrim-

age site – hence the

nickname‘Holy Island’.

Its priory ruins (pictured)

include a museum about

the early Christian saints

Aidan and Cuthbert who

once lived here, and a

copy of the Lindisfarne

Gospels. There’s also

a 16th-century castle,

rugged coastal trails and

cosy pubs.

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Clamber down to

King Edward’s Bay from

Tynemouth’s High St

to find Riley’s Fish

Shack – a gourmet grill

with deck chairs on the

sand, serving fresh local

catch and homemade

hot buttered rum.

01

Bamburgh’s broad beach has

a stunning backdrop – the castle,

perched on the rocks, has stood

watch over the sands for more

than 1000 years. Take a tour before

diving into the sand dunes.

05

Catch a boat from

Seahouses to the

National Trust’s Farne

Islands, home to

St Cuthbert’s Chapel,

seals and 10,000

seabirds nesting on

precipitous rocky

outcrops. Come May to

July for puffins.

04

Smokehouses have dominated the

fishing village of Craster for more than

130 years. Drop by L Robson & Sons, a

fourth-generation family business, for cured

kippers traditionally smoked in sheds.

03

After a jaunt along the 2-mile

Whitley Bay Beach, get out on

the water with CBK Adventures.

Options include a sunrise

kayak, seal-spotting adventure,

coasteering or SUP cookouts.

02

FROM LEFT: COXY58/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, ANN AND STEVE TOON/

ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, ATTILA JANDI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Wensleydale

WH_PICS/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

ĩ Craft Booze

Brew York

Hidden in an old warehouse off Fossgate, drink-

ers commune beside the giant brewery tanks

or on a tiny terrace overlooking the River Ouse.

Whitby Brewery

The picnic tables in this brewery’s on-site

courtyard bar lie in the shadow of Whitby

Abbey’s gaunt ruined arches.

Holmfirth Vineyard

Visit some of Britain’s most northerly vines

on a tour with tastings at this West Yorkshire

valley winery. There’s also on-site accommo-

dation and a restaurant with wonderful views.

Wylam Brewery

Visit the taproom and terrace at the art deco

Palace of Arts in Newcastle’s Exhibition Park.

On-site burger bar and roasts on Sundays.

Twice Brewed Inn

After a brewery tour you can eat, drink, sleep

or stargaze at this rural brewhouse beside

Hadrian’s Wall.

H Local Flavours

Betty’s Tearoom

££

Vintage interiors, decadent afternoon teas

and queues for a table – a trip to Betty’s is an

iconic Yorkshire experience. It’s famous for

the fat rascal, an all-butter cake with currants,

glacé cherries and almonds.

Talbot Yard

£

Local gin, gelato, meat and coffee can all be

found at this gourmet stableyard food court in

Yorkshire’s food capital of Malton. Does tours.

Magpie Fish & Chips

££

Yorkshire’s best fish and chips – but its histor-

ic fish restaurant is also the place to come for

fresh North Sea dishes.

Bundobust

£

Pair your craft IPAs with Yorkshire-accented

Gujarati street food at this popular Leeds bar.

The okra fries are a must.

Wensleydale Creamery

£

See the curds and whey being sifted at this

community-minded cheese factory with on-

site museum, tastings and cafe in the Dales

village of Hawes.

Jolly Fisherman

££

Try a kipper Scotch egg, devilled crab toast

or a surf ’n’ turf burger at this award-winning

seafood gastropub in Craster, with sea-view

beer garden.

House of Tides

£££

Magnificent 10-course Michelin-star fine

dining from chef Kenny Atkinson in a restored

townhouse beneath the Tyne Bridge.

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

198

YORKSHIRE

&

THE

NORTHEAST REVIEWS

Heart of Northumberland

££

Expect comforting pub grub such as home-

made sausage rolls and Sunday roasts at this

independent free house in Hexham.

North Shields Fish Quay

£

This working 17th-century fisheries quay is

also a lively hub for wet fish shops, bars and

restaurants serving speciality seafood dishes.

g History Brought to Life

Alnwick Castle and Gardens

Northumberland’s fairy-tale castle is famous

for its Harry Potter connections; you need

a separate ticket to visit the Gardens (well

worth it).

Durham Cathedral

Join the pilgrims at St Cuthbert’s tomb before

visiting the excellent museum, climbing the

tower and taking tea in the cloisters.

Ripley Village and Castle

A picture-perfect North Yorkshire village mod-

elled on a French village, with a 700-year-old

castle, country inn and the Harrogate Tipple

craft gin distillery.

Jorvik

Take a ride through Viking York, complete with

animatronics, at this interactive museum built

on the archaeological excavations of Jorvik.

Hepworth Wakefield

This David Chipperfield–designed gallery

houses modern British art and an important

collection of sculptures by Barbara Hepworth,

who was born in Wakefield. Good on-site cafe.

Wilberforce House Museum

Inside the 17th-century birthplace of Britain’s

foremost abolitionist, this Hull museum tells

the story of the transatlantic trade in enslaved

people and William Wilberforce’s role in

ending it.

Endeavour Experience

Board a full-size replica of Captain Cook’s

1768 voyage ship, moored in Whitby Harbour

as an interactive museum. Combine a trip

here with a visit to Whitby’s Captain Cook

Memorial Museum, where Cook lived as an

apprentice long before he sailed the Pacific to

map Australia and New Zealand.

ŗ Fresh-Air Fun

Yorkshire Coast Nature

Sustainable whale-watching tours, birding

safaris and wildflower discovery walks along

the Yorkshire coast.

KA Adventure Sports

Surf lessons on Bamburgh Beach, as well as

stand-up paddleboarding and coasteering on

the Northumberland coast.

Kielder Observatory

A packed stargazing calendar in the inky

depths of the Northumberland International

Dark Sky Park.

Dalby Forest

Large woodland mountain-biking hub with

nature trails ranging from green to black. Bike

hire (including e-bikes) is available on-site.

Endeavour Experience

AC

RIDER/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

199

YORKSHIRE

&

THE

NORTHEAST REVIEWS

200

HADRIAN’S

WALL EXPERIENCES

WALKING | HISTORY | NATURE

43

Hadrian’s Wall is the most

substantial surviving Roman

monument in Britain. Patrol

some (or all) of its ancient path

across northern England to

behold beguiling landscapes and

encounter human stories of life

at the northernmost edge of the

Roman Empire.

HIKE

Hadrian’s Wall

DAVID

STEELE/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

ı Barracks Life

Auxiliary soldiers from

across the empire were

stationed at the wall,

including troops from

Belgium, Romania and Syria.

At Housesteads Roman

Fort see the cheek-by-jowl

living conditions, where

eight men would squeeze

into one startlingly small

room. Then inspect Britain’s

best-preserved communal

Roman toilet, complete with

rainwater flush.

RICHARD

BAKER/GETTY

IMAGES

©

JEFF

J

MITCHELL

/GETTY

IMAGES

©

201

HADRIAN’S

WALL EXPERIENCES

Above left Hiking Hadrian’s Wall

Above Housesteads Roman Fort

Left Sycamore Gap

Rugged Beauty

Much of Hadrian’s Wall takes advantage of

the Whin Sill: a geological fault that created

dramatic north-facing crags. Start at Steel

Rigg car park and follow the wall as it clings

to the escarpment through Northumberland

National Park towards Housesteads. On this

90-minute hike you’ll pass where the perfect-

ly placed lone tree at Sycamore Gap once

stood, famed as a filming location for Robin

Hood: Prince of Thieves. Sadly, the iconic tree

was felled in an act of vandalism in August

2023, but the gap is still a fine sight.

Nearby is The Sill: National Landscape Dis

covery Centre. Stand atop its grassland roof to

admire the surrounding topology before learn-

ing how it was formed at the engaging exhibition

inside. The centre has a lovely cafe and is also

the starting point for prebookable guided walks.

How to

Getting here/around

Hadrian’s Wall Path is a

National Trail stretching

84 miles from coast to

coast. Carlisle and New-

castle are the major

transport hubs. From

Easter to autumn, bus

AD122 (named after the

year wall construction

began) connects the

scenic central sites.

When to go The hiking

season is from April to

September.

Top tip Download

free, detailed walking

routes and look out for

events and tours on the

Hadrian’s Wall Country

website.

202

Next door, at the hospitable Twice Brewed Inn,

join a stargazing event to appreciate the pristine

darkness that would have greeted the Roman

night guards. The wall here falls within Europe’s

largest Gold Tier Dark Sky Park.

Hands-On History

To place the wall in context, stop at one of the

excellent museums en route. In Carlisle, Tullie

House Museum is a must, while visitors to

Newcastle should head to the interactive

exhibitions at Segedunum.

To marvel at the wall from above, don 3D

glasses to watch the 20-minute feature at the

Roman Army Museum. The movie flies you

over the tilting landscape and zooms in on

the soldiers’ daily routines. Then test out your

skills on the crossbow simulator.

Next, wander down the time-worn high street

of Roman Corbridge. Following the audio guide

around these too-often-missed ruins will show-

case how soldiers, merchants and families lived

side by side in this once vibrant supply town. In

ĩ Do as the Romans Do

The Vindolanda tablets show the

Romans were partial to a glass

of beer. Follow in their footsteps

and enjoy a pint along the

wall’s path.

Crown Posada A three-storey

Victorian real-ales pub with

beautiful stained-glass

windows, close to Newcastle

station.

Robin Hood Inn This cheery

country inn in East Wallhouses

has a rotation of locally brewed

beers. Try a warm ham-and-

pease-pudding sandwich – a

regional favourite.

Drover’s Rest Atraditional pub

near Burgh-by-Sands, with an

open fire and a variety of cask

ales. For sustenance, order a

homemade sausage in a bun.

n By Kevin Robson,

owner & guide at

Ancient Britain,

Northumberland

@ancient_britain

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RIGHT:

NICOLA

PATTERSON/SHUTTERSTOCK

©;

LEFT:

MARK

DUNN/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

Left Crown Posada pub

Below Lanercost Priory

203

HADRIAN’S

WALL EXPERIENCES

the museum, discover the Corbridge Hoard: one of

the most significant Roman finds in England.

Digging Up the Past

Like Roman Corbridge, the fort at Vindolanda

is set just south of the wall and was part of the

frontier system. On weekdays between Easter and

September you can witness live excavations by

teams of volunteers. Previous digs have unearthed

the Vindolanda tablets: thin wooden postcards,

daubed in ink, constituting one of the world’s most

important collections of Roman writing. Gawp at

these almost 2000-year-old messages, which cap-

ture the everyday concerns of the fort’s residents

(some are also kept in the British Museum).

Other treasures on display include the only known

surviving pair of Roman boxing gloves.

Scattered Stones

Expect only glimpses of the wall west of Birdos

wald Roman Fort. The missing stones are partly

explained by post-Roman plundering. Pop into

atmospheric Lanercost Priory or St Michael’s

at BurghbySands to see how medieval builders

recycled the ramparts. The granite timeline on

St Michael’s grounds outlines the church’s fasci-

nating history. Look for the plaque commemorating

the first recorded African community in Britain,

who guarded the wall here in the 3rd century.

GANNET77/GETTY

IMAGES

©

204

Left Hadrian’s Wall

Centre Milecastle 39

Right The Vallum

HADRIAN’S

WALL ESSAY

Hadrian

Builds a

Wall

FORTIFYING THE

ROMAN EMPIRE

When Emperor

Hadrian visited the

Roman province of

Britannia in 122 CE,

he ordered a curtain

wall to be built to

the north, lunging

from the Solway Firth

to the mouth of the

River Tyne. But why?

Was this a sound

military strategy? Or

a colossal waste of

resources?

Before the Wall

The plan had been simple. Upon invading Britain in 43 CE

Emperor Claudius intended to capture the whole of the

island by defeating each area’s ruling tribe.

However, although the well-organised Roman army was

initially successful in battle, they soon found maintaining

control was far from straightforward. This particularly

proved the case with the unyielding Caledonians in the far

north. ‘They practised guerrilla warfare, which the Roman

army couldn’t cope with,’ explains Dr Frances McIntosh,

English Heritage Collections Curator at Hadrian’s Wall.

By the time Hadrian came to power in 117 CE, the

Roman troops had fallen back to the Stanegate: the main

west–east trading road that linked the forts of Carlisle and

Corbridge (well south of the modern Scottish border).

Under Construction

Unlike his predecessors, Hadrian was more interested in

security and prosperity than expansion, and he set about

consolidating the Roman Empire’s frontiers. Where he

could, he made use of seas, rivers and deserts. In Britain,

where no obvious natural barrier existed, Hadrian com-

manded one be built.

Turning Hadrian’s vision into a reality was no easy feat.

Three legions, each consisting of 5000 citizen-soldiers,

were needed to construct the ambitious barricade, just

north of the Stanegate. The soldiers used materials close

at hand. This meant the wall was initially crafted from

timber and turf to the west, whereas towards the east they

stacked the locally quarried stone. The resulting ramparts

were around 4.6m high, 80 Roman miles long (73 modern

miles) and fronted by a large ditch.

S.

VINCENT/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

STOCKSOLUTIONS/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

205

HADRIAN’S

WALL ESSAY

In Britain, where no obvious

natural barrier existed, Hadrian

commanded one be built.

It’s estimated

that the wall took

around six years

to construct. Even

then, there was

more to be done.

Over the following decade, 16 forts – each housing 500 to

1000 men – were added to the original system of milecastles

and turrets. Timber sections were replaced by stone, and a

huge ditch known as the Vallum was carved out to the south.

Legacy Building

Despite the wall now being a menacing military installation,

McIntosh suggests that a large army still could have charged

over it. ‘How much of its construction was actually about

propaganda?’ McIntosh queries. Certainly, Hadrian had a

reputation for building large-scale projects, and he understood

architecture’s symbolic power. Perhaps, then, he’d always in-

tended for the wall to be more than a physical defence; it was

also a bold statement of Roman grit, skill and permanence.

There’s a particular irony, then, that by 142 CE, Hadrian’s

successor had already abandoned the wall, instead establish-

ing a new frontier in modern-day Scotland. This expansion

was fleeting though: within 20 years, the Romans were back

fortifying Hadrian’s frontier.

Although there were very occasional breaches, the wall

stood as a successful border until the end of Roman rule in

Britain in the early 5th century. In 1987 Hadrian’s Wall became

a UNESCO World Heritage Site. And today, visitors can marvel

at how large sections still march through northern England – a

testament not only to Hadrian’s imagination but to the thou-

sands who worked to build and subsequently protect it.

Ē Walk a Roman Mile

Each Roman mile of wall

(measuring 1000 paces) was

punctuated by a guarded gate

(milecastle), with two obser-

vation towers (turrets) evenly

placed in between. Walk east

from Birdoswald Roman Fort

to see the remnants of all the

defining features of this mili-

tary installation, plus a Roman

bridge. This mile section is

part of the longest surviving

stretch of Hadrian’s Wall, and

walks here have a particularly

immersive quality, with the

ramparts still standing 2.5m

high. Mini historians will revel

in exploring the fort itself,

which features signalling

games, a clue-cracking quest

and construction challenges.

NORTHWEST

ENGLAND

CULTURE | TRAILS | SEASIDE

u Scandi Stories (p212)

u Grounded in

Nature (p214)

u Flora & Fauna of

Fletcher Moss (p216)

u Murderous

Millinery (p218)

u Runway Hiking (p220)

u Nostalgic

Shores (p222)

u The Perfect G&T

in Ulverston (p224)

u Poets &

Swashbucklers (p226)

u A Grand Tour of the

Lake District (p228)

u Lancaster, the

Festival City (p230)

u Beyond Blackpool

Tower (p232)

u Listings (p234)

77 7

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Liverpool

Bay

Irish Sea

W A L E S

I S L E

O F M A N

Barrow

Island

Lake

District

Crummock

Water

Wast

Water

Ennerdale

Water

Bassenthwaite

Lake

E

ll

en

Ravenglass

Whitehaven

Barrow-in- Furness

Cockermouth

Workington

Scaféll

Pike

@ I

ġ

Ponder the future of historic,

1860-built Southport Pier (p225)

Ġ 20mins from Southport Station

Discover Liverpool’s creative heart

at the Baltic Triangle (p214)

Ġ 20mins from Albert Dock

England’s NORTHWEST is where creativity,

culture, ingenuity and people come together. With

a dynamic past and eyes firmly on the future, the

region is home to vivid nightlife, Victorian seaside

resorts, contemporary art, historic landscapes,

an iconic music legacy and endlessly welcoming

inhabitants.

NORTHWEST

ENGLAND

Trip Builder

Pedal your way along the iconic

Blackpool promenade (p234)

ŉ 45mins from Preston

Concoct your personalised

flavoured gin at the

Shed 1 Gin distillery in

Ulverston (p227)

ń 30mins from Grizedale

NORTHWEST

ENGLAND BUILD

YOUR

TRIP

FROM LEFT: MARK D BAILEY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

DENIS BARINOV/ SHUTTERSTOCK ©, THE NATIONAL

TRUST PHOTOLIBRARY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©,

SARAH IRVING/LONELY PLANET ©

PREVIOUS SPREAD: STOCKER1970/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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C H E S H I R E

L A N C A S H I R E

N O R T H

Y O R K S H I R E

C U M B R I A

Morecambe

Bay

North

Sea

North York Moors

National Park

Peak District

National

Park

Yorkshire Dales

National Park

Forest

of Bowland

Lake District

National Park

Haweswater

Coniston

Water

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Ullswater

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Buxton

Hyde

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Formby

Ulverston

Harrogate

Windermere

Macclesfield

Lancaster

Settle

Skipton

Kirkby

Bebington

New Mills

Ilkley

Ashton-

under-Lyne

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Ormskirk

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Southport

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Liverpool

Manchester

Wigan

Preston

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Bay

North

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North York Moors

National Park

Peak District

National

Park

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National Park

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of Bowland

Lake District

National Park

Haweswater

Coniston

Water

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Ullswater

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Windermere

Macclesfield

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Settle

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Ilkley

Ashton-

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Manchester

Wigan

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Ramble beneath Manchester

Airport through the Bollin

Valley Tunnel (p222)

ń 25mins from central

Manchester

Practise mindfulness among the flora

and fauna of Fletcher Moss (p216)

Ő 40mins from central Manchester

Savour Lake District views from the Lakeside

and Haverthwaite Railway (p230)

ń 10mins from Windermere

Discover Cumbria’s most famous

author at Wordsworth House in

Cockermouth (p229)

Ġ 5mins from Cockermouth Station

MICHAEL715/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

210

Practicalities

HOW MUCH

FOR A

NORTHWEST

ENGLAND FIND

YOUR

FEET

WHEN TO GO

GETTING AROUND

Northern Day

Ranger ticket

£26.80

Packet of Eccles

cakes

£2

Pint of craft beer

£6

Public transport Manchester is

served by several bus companies,

trams and trains. There is also

the Metroshuttle, a free service

around the city centre (buses 1,

2 and 3). Liverpool’s excellent

rail network serves Merseyside

and Wirral buses for local

destinations. For help planning

your journeys around Manchester,

visit tfgm.com/plan

-a-journey. For Liverpool journey

planning, visit jp.merseytravel.

gov.uk. There are trains across

the region from both stations;

get tickets through Trainline

(thetrainline.com).

ARRIVING

Air Manchester Airport (pictured) is located

9 miles outside Manchester. Trains run regularly

to Manchester and Liverpool; the trip to

Manchester (£3.70 to £4.40) takes around 15

minutes, while Liverpool’s Lime St (£14.30)

is one hour and 40 minutes. Taxis to central

Manchester (about £20) take 25 minutes.

Liverpool John Lennon Airport is 8 miles south of

Liverpool. Catch the AirLink 500 bus to the city

centre; it takes 25 minutes and costs £3.

Walking and cycling Both

Manchester and Liverpool have

reasonably compact city centres,

so it’s easy to walk or cycle to

most of the places you’d like

to visit.

JAN–MAR

Cold and wintery. Excellent

time for museums and

galleries.

JUL–SEP

Warmer days with fewer

showers. Perfect for

frequenting beer gardens.

APR–JUN

Sunny days and cool showers.

Enjoy spring flowers and trees.

OCT–DEC

Colder, wetter and windier with

dry days. Great for Christmas

markets and comfort food.

TOP:

ANDREW

STOUT

(INSTAGRAM-

@ANDYSTOUT.DESIGN)

©

BOTTOM:

CKp1001/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

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NORTHWEST

ENGLAND FIND

YOUR

FEET

WHERE TO STAY

There are plenty of hotels in all northwestern cities. For budget-friendly

accommodation and a more local experience, check out the hostels or

Airbnb in the suburbs further out from the city or town centres.

EATING & DRINKING

The northwest loves comforting stews, sticky puddings and hot cordial.

Liverpool has scouse, a hearty stew made with chunks of meat (lamb or

beef), potatoes and onions; vegetarians should go for the‘blind scouse’.

Manchester will delight you with the Manchester egg (Scotch egg made

with Bury black pudding, pork sausage and a pickled egg) and Eccles

cakes (pictured bottom right; flaky, buttery pastry wrapped around

sweetly spiced currants). Further north, there’s Lancashire hotpot, sticky

toffee pudding and parkin (a kind of gingerbread), fresh seafood from the

Morecambe coast, and Cumbria’s minty sugary joy of Kendal Mint Cake.

Best scouse Welsford Bistro (pictured top right; p236)

Must-try local drink Hot Vimto cordial at Frankie’s Toasties (p236)

MONEY

Most places, even food markets, take card payments.

Check journey planners to get the best deal on train

tickets and choose off-peak journeys. Most museums

are free, making them excellent additions to your

budget itinerary.

WEATHER

It’s a wet region! Check the

forecast and make sure to always

have an umbrella and waterproof

coat at hand for the surprise

showers.

CONNECT & FIND YOUR WAY

Wi-fi Almost all hotels, cafes

and shopping centres offer free

wi-fi. You can also access it on

public transport, though it’s not

the fastest or most reliable of

connections.

Navigation Use Google Maps

or the cities’ wayfinding maps.

Both Manchester and Liverpool

are walkable cities with signs for

popular destinations to help you

get around.

Place

Pro/Con

Northern Quarter,

Manchester

Accommodation in the city’s heart with

train access to the region. Easy access to

bars, restaurants and public transport. It

can get noisy at night.

Cavern Quarter,

Liverpool

Budget-friendly and at the heart of the

action on Mathew St, not far from railway

stations. It can be very loud with a party

atmosphere.

Morecambe coast,

Lancashire

From caravans to luxury hotels, there’s

plenty of choice for every budget. Easy

access to Lancaster. Quite rural so it

might be best for those travelling by car.

Keswick, Lake

District

Bustling picturesque town on the

doorstep of stunning hikes. It can

be busy and expensive during peak

seasons.

212

NORTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

Scandi

STORIES

CULTURE | STREET ART | BEER

44

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How to

Getting around Take a

20-minute stroll down

Jamaica St from Albert

Dock to explore the street

art, murals and graffiti

and discover artists’

studios, shops and cafes

along the way.

When to go Spring and

summer are the best

times, when you can

make the most of the

outdoors and enjoy hunt-

ing out the art and ghost

signs. Be sure to visit

the spectacular Nordic

Church on Park La.

Top tip Some of the best

discoveries are down side

streets.

What was once hinterland on the southern edges of Liverpool’s city centre

is enjoying a resurgence and revival with the help of the creative community.

Boasting a similar vibe to Manchester’s Northern Quarter and Birmingham’s

Digbeth, the Baltic Triangle wears its past like a badge of honour.

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NORTHWEST

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Baltic

Fleet

Gustav Adolf Church

Liver

Bird Wings

Queens Stores Co

Liverpool Tea Warehouse

Love Lane

Brewery

0

200 m

0

0.1 miles

D

(345m)

e

Cains Brewery

D

Anglican

Cathedral

(300m)

Left Cains Brewery

Below Queens Stores Co

ĩ Whet Your Whistle

A family-run pub from the

1850s serving great local

beer, the Baltic Fleet is

the ideal place to start

a journey into the Baltic

Triangle.

From there, venture

downstairs to a little

speakeasy called Hobo

Kiosk, a warm place

where you will be sure

to receive a cosy Scouse

welcome.

Walk past the colourful

murals towards Cains

Brewery Village. Once

there, the Jacaranda Bal-

tic is a record shop and live

music venue now regularly

hosting global stars.

Down the back of the

Baltic Market you’ll find

Ryde Café, a lovely cycle

cafe with incredible food

and local drinks.

n By Dale

Roberts,

qualified

Liverpool tour

guide and owner of Liverpool

Eco Tour @DaleLiverpool

Heavily bombed in WWII and with a long history of neglect,

much of this area was derelict by the end of the 20th century.

Attracted by the frayed edges and cheap rent, the local

creatives moved in with a grassroots plan to raise the Baltic

Triangle from the rubble and foster an innovative spirit in the

neighbourhood.

Why Baltic? The name comes from the maritime connec-

tions to the Scandinavian countries doing trade at the port, as

evidenced by two stunning buildings. The Baltic Fleet pub and

the expansive neogothic Gustav Adolf Church were built to

accommodate the many Swedish sailors visiting these shores.

Ghost signs Whispers of the past are found in the ghost signs

fading on crumbling mill brickwork, telling the story of the

sailmaking and metal merchants back when Liverpool was a

bustling seaport. Queens Stores Co offers the best example,

sitting below its broken panes.

Creative hub One of the most impressive buildings in the

area is the former Cains Brewery, founded in 1858. It’s now

a vibrant hub where live music, creative thinkers and vintage

goods come together.

Street art You can find some of Liverpool’s most iconic street

art (and selfie spots) decorating the prewar brick buildings

in the area, from Paul Curtis’ Liver Bird Wings on Jamaica

St to Liam Bononi’s Italo mural in the shadow of Liverpool

Cathedral.

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How to

Getting here Take

the Metrolink tram

from St Peter’s Sq to

Didsbury Village and

follow Wilmslow Rd to the

gardens.

When to go The gardens

are beautiful all year

round, but especially in

the spring and summer

when the flowers are in

full bloom.

Food and drink There’s

plenty of space to throw

down a blanket to enjoy a

picnic in the park, grab an

ice cream at The Croft or

buy something from one

of Didsbury’s finest local

shops.

Grounded in

NATURE

NATURE | PICNICS | MINDFULNESS

45

Nestled in the leafy suburb of Didsbury, you will find Fletcher Moss Park

& Parsonage Gardens. From a formal pergola and rockeries to the wild woodland

and meadows, these gardens are an abundance of nature – the perfect place to

unwind and bathe in the dappled shade of the trees.

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215

Far left Fletcher Moss

Below Green parakeet

Left Stenner Woods

NORTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

The gardens were named after Alderman Fletcher Moss, who

purchased them in 1912 and subsequently donated them to

the people of Manchester as a place of leisure, and they are

very popular on sunny days. Winding beneath the canopy of

trees with the fragrance from the borders illuminating the way,

you can’t help but feel like you’ve stepped far from the city.

The flourishing hillside rockery designed and created by

Robert Wood Williamson and his wife Emily, who founded the

Plumage League in 1889 (p220), is the first feature drawing

you into the garden. Meandering paths beckon you towards

the pond and seats tucked into the foliage below.

Stroll your way to the meadow, a lively part of the gardens,

with wildlife and wetland plants thriving in boggy conditions.

Here you might spot some ‘granny’s toenails’, attracting the

common blue butterfly, or enchanter’s nightshade, with its

tiny white flowers.

As well as the common birds of British parks and gardens

(p218), you might also spot some more unusual feathered

friends of the area – the vibrant green parakeets who have

made Manchester their home.

From Fletcher Moss, you can also enjoy a walk around the

Parsonage Gardens and Didsbury Park, head deeper into

Stenner Woods or Millgate Fields, or wander along the

banks of the River Mersey.

s Make It Mindful

Kick off your shoes and

walk barefoot. Notice the

different textures beneath

your feet. Enjoy that

grounded feeling!

As you stroll, look down

at the ground and collect

any natural items that you

are drawn to.

Head to a wooded area

and slowly touch each

tree you walk past. Notice

the texture of the bark.

You might like to smell the

fresh woody scent of the

tree. How do the different

trees make you feel?

Sit underneath a tree

with your back against

the trunk. Softly gaze

upwards at the patterns

formed against the sky.

Enjoy sitting with the tree.

Stop, take a few deep

breaths and tune into

the wondrous sounds of

nature around you.

n By

Charlotte

Holroyd,

founder of

ethical design studio

Creative Wilderness,

Bollington

@creativewilderness

01

05

03

02

06

04

Flora & Fauna of

FLETCHER

MOSS

01 Bird’s-foot

trefoil

Found in grassy areas,

it’s often called‘granny’s

toenails’for the claw-like

seedpods that follow on

from the bright yellow

flowers from May to

September.

02 Lesser

celandine

Low-growing plant with

glossy heart-shaped

leaves in two tones of

green. The bright yellow

flowers can be seen

from January to April in

meadow areas.

03 Enchanter’s

nightshade

This woodland plant

has tiny (5mm)

pinkish-white flowers

with protruding stamen

seen from June to

September.

04 Guelder rose

The creamy white flower

clusters are seen from

May to July. In autumn,

you can see its bright

red, translucent round

berries.

05 Sweet cicely

This hedgerow plant

has fern-like leaves with

white dots near the

stem, tiny white flowers

from May to July and a

distinctive aniseed scent.

06 Crested

dog’s tail

Tall stiff-looking grass

with tightly packed

flower heads called

spikelets. It’s loved by

wildlife and can grow up

to 75cm in height.

216

01 SCISETTI ALFIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 02 ANDREW ROLAND/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 03 COLIN ROBERT VARNDELL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 04 (FLOWER) KUTTELVASEROVA

STUCHELOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, (BERRIES) ROMANPELESHKO/SHUTTERSTOCK, 05 DABJOLA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 06 MANFRED RUCKSZIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,

07 PHOTOILLUSTRATOR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 08 MARTINA OSMY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 09 RICHARD GRIFFIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 10 SCISETTIALFIO/SHUTTERSTOCK©,

11 ELENABUTINOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK©

09

11

07

10

08

07 Purple

loosestrife

Water-loving plants

found near the board-

walk. The tall flower

spikes with pink-purple

flowers are attractive to

long-tongued insects

like the red-tailed

bumblebee.

08 Marsh

woundwort

Found in damp areas

and around water, hence

the common name. The

flowers are purple-pink

and are formed on tall,

dense spikes from May

to June.

09 Cow parsley

Tall plants with

umbrella-like clusters of

tiny white flowers from

May to June. They are

found in most hedge-

rows and woodlands,

dying back in autumn.

10 Rowan

Atree with feather-edged

leaves, silvery bark and

15m tall. They have

clusters of tiny, creamy

white flowers followed by

bright red, round berries

loved by birds.

11 Wild cherry

Oval, green, toothed

leaves with white

five-petalled flowers ap-

pear in April. Deep-red

cherries follow them.

217

WANG

LIQIANG/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

218

Left Great crested grebe

Centre Victorian millinery

Right Milliner’s feathers

Murderous

Millinery

THE CAMPAIGN TO

PROTECT BIRDS FROM

TORTUROUS FASHION

While Emmeline

Pankhurst took

centre stage in

the suffragette

movement, another

Victorian female

activist was working

to save more than

61 species of birds

from the brink of

extinction from her

home at Fletcher

Moss in Manchester.

During the Victorian era, it was customary for women to

stay at home to keep the house and raise children. It took

a strong woman to break the shackles of such a life and

stand up for a cause. But this was also a time when Man-

chester saw a wave of passionate women driven to make a

ripple of change in a man’s world.

In 1882, Emily Williamson lived at The Croft with her

husband, solicitor Robert Wood Williamson, the son of

a professor of natural history at what later became the

University of Manchester. Together they embarked on the

impressive rockery and planting schemes still blooming in

today’s Fletcher Moss Park & Parsonage Gardens. But it

wasn’t just the garden that became a passion for Emily.

Emily’s favourite bird, the great crested grebe, was in

decline, as its fantastic plumage made it a target for the

hat trade. Emily embarked on a campaign to take a stand

against the fashion of feathers decorating hats. It would

not be a straightforward campaign, as feathers were

deemed essential accessories, even by the suffragettes.

Emily’s campaign often created rifts with her fellow

contemporary campaigners, who used feathers as part of

their brand identity.

More than five million birds were being slaughtered each

year for their feathers. They were often brutally killed,

leaving the young behind. At the height of the hat trade, an

ounce of egret feathers was worth more than an ounce of

gold. The sheer number of birds consumed in the produc-

tion of hat decorations was leading many breeds to the

brink of extinction.

In an attempt to stop the practice, Emily begged the

British Ornithologists’ Union to step in to support her

NORTHWEST

ENGLAND ESSAY

AMORET

TANNER

COLLECTION/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

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BERYL

PETERS

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219

Emily Williamson

encouraged friends and

visitors to pledge to

‘Wear No Feathers’.

campaign against ‘murderous millinery’, but they ignored her

letters and pleas. Driven by her passion for conservation, she

found another way to share her cause. Hosting tea parties at

The Croft, Emily encouraged friends and visitors to pledge to

‘Wear No Feathers’. The Society for the Protection of Birds was

founded through these gatherings, and in 1904 it gained royal

recognition to become the

Royal Society for the Protec-

tion of Birds (RSPB).

After being dismissed by

the all-male Ornithologists’

Union, Emily formed bonds

with other women, namely

Etta Lemon and Eliza Phillips

from Fin, Fur and Feather Folk in Croydon. Together, they

launched a campaign in 1898 that would produce more than

50,000 leaflets and 16,000 letters. Every train station hosted a

poster showing brutal images of birds killed for fashion, which

greatly affected the consumer view of the trade. After 30 years

of campaigning, the 1921 Plumage Act was passed, making it

illegal to trade exotic bird skins.

From humble beginnings at Fletcher Moss in Manches-

ter to conserving birds and bird habitats all over the UK,

Emily Williamson’s tireless work, along with her all-female

co-activists, led to the RSPB becoming one of the largest

conservation charities in the world.

ĸ Northern Women

Other women who tirelessly

worked to make a difference

in Manchester and the UK:

Dr Erinma Bell Moss Side

peace campaigner and

co-founder of Carisma chari-

ty, offering alternatives to gun

crime in the city.

Marie Stopes The first woman

on the Manchester University

faculty and founder of the UK’s

first birth control clinic.

Emmeline Pankhurst Activist

and resident of Moss Side,

who organised the suffragette

movement to earn women the

right to vote.

Dr Eleanor Schill One of the

first women in England to

qualify in medicine; worked in

deprived areas of Manchester.

Carol Ann Duffy Professor

of contemporary poetry at

Manchester Metropolitan

University, the 2009 Poet

Laureate and the first woman

and openly LGBTIQ+ person

to win the title.

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ENGLAND ESSAY

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HIRST/ALAMY

STOCK

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220

How to

Getting here Parking is

available at the National

Trust Quarry Bank Mill

(free), the Runway

Visitors Park (£5 for

two hours and £12 for

more than four hours),

or in the lay-by near the

roundabout (free); then

follow the River Bollin

Nature Trail.

When to go Spring,

summer and autumn are

the best times, when it is

warmer and dry.

Practicalities Take a

picnic and drinks with

you and be aware that

there are no toilets on the

route.

Runway

HIKING

HIKING | PLANE SPOTTING | NATURE

46

Ramble along a marvellous route through the woodland to discover a

gigantic tunnel beneath the runway at Manchester Airport. A nature trail along

the River Bollin takes you up close to Runway 2, so you can experience the

rumble of planes taking off as well as the tranquillity of a countryside jaunt.

NORTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

VINCENT

ABBEY/ALAMY

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221

Far left Bollin ValleyTunnel

Below Buzzard

Left Jet taxiing over the A538 tunnel

While walking beneath a live runway at Manchester Airport isn’t

on everyone’s travel list, it is something worth considering. It’s

a walk where urban exploration and nature collide, all while

experiencing the roar of planes taking off overhead.

Manchester Airport, located 9 miles south of the city, is

England’s busiest airport outside London, serving more than

200 destinations. It is also one of only two UK airports (the

other being Heathrow) to have two runways over 3000m in

length – one of which you will get the chance to walk beneath.

The trail takes you along the high-security fences at

the runway’s perimeter, where you almost feel like you’re

trespassing. Peer through the barbed-wire-topped chain-link

fence to watch the planes, feeling the rumble as they take to

the air. The path winds down towards the river. The tunnel

fabric includes bat caves, bird nesting areas and mammal runs

for the local badgers and rabbits, so keep your eyes peeled for

some winged or furry friends.

It is astonishing to find something so colossal along a nature

trail – an example of a building on an industrial scale and a

haven for wildlife. At a length of 15 double-decker buses, the

tunnel was constructed between 1997 and 1999 to allow for

the long airport runway to pass over the River Bollin, and is

part of a long stretch covering the A538, which you can also

walk through. Time your visit right, and you might also see the

vast Emirates Airbus A380 crossing the bridge – an amazing

sight indeed.

X Through the Lens

The course of the

River Bollin provides

some excellent photo

opportunities.

There are wild garlic and

woodland banks at the

rear of the Airport Inn

Hotel.

Wild swimming pools

are daubed in sunlight

creeping through the

trees before the tunnel,

with sightings of buzzards,

kingfishers and the

occasional deer through

to meadows of golden

buttercups off Wood Lane

near Mobberley.

For the aviation fan, there

are ample opportunities

to photograph the planes

as they take off and land

from the raised banks on

either side of the runways

or from the fence line

next to the runway by the

Fire Station.

n By Jon

Hayes, local

photographer,

Manchester

@jph_photosandtravel

NORTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

JUSTIN

KASE

Z12Z/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

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222

Nostalgic

SHORES

SEASIDE | VICTORIANA | QUIRKY

Southport is a nostalgia-infused northern seaside resort with all the

trappings of an excellent day on the coast. You’re never far from something quirky

and relaxing to enjoy: a stroll along the foreshore, local fish and chips, drinks in a

tiny pub or even a visit to a lawnmower museum.

47

Trip Notes

Getting here/around Merseyrail trains service Southport, making it an easy

destination from Liverpool. There’s plenty of parking along the promenade

for those visiting by car. It’s a very walkable town and a pleasure to explore.

When to go The best time to visit is in spring and summer when there’s

a lively atmosphere and pleasant weather. The low season is great for a

quieter visit, but fewer attractions are open.

Top tip Ainsdale and Birkdale wild sand dunes are home to some spectacular

wildlife. Wander along paths and through grasses to see what you discover.

H Food & Drink

Seek out sustenance

at the town’s finest fish

and chip shop, the Swan

Restaurant, owned and

managed by the Defty

family for over 45 years.

Time for a swift half or

a sloe gin? Head off to

Britain’s second-

smallest pub, the

Lakeside Inn (pictured).

An authentically odd

vintage nautical interior

gives way to an elegant

terrace, overlooking

the lake.

n By Steve

Marland,

explorer and

writer at

Modern Mooch, Stockport

@marlandstephen

NORTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

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FROM LEFT: NEIL MCALLISTER/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©,

DMC PHOTOGALLERY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, NICK HIGHAM/

ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Stretch your legs along the promenade

and admire the view of Southport Pier –

the country’s second-longest and oldest

iron pier, opened in 1860. Sadly, the pier and

its vintage arcade games were off-limits at

the time of research due to safety concerns.

01

Look up at the

well-preserved ’60s

high-rise Sandown

Court on Albert Rd –

a location for the 1969

film What’s Good for

the Goose, starring

Norman Wisdom.

05

Test your hand–eye

coordination on the

Southport Crazy Golf

course, followed by a

leisurely stroll around

the Model Railway Village

in King’s Gardens.

04

For something offbeat,

try the British Lawnmower

Museum: 250 pristine

mowers, including the

fastest, the most expensive

and those owned by Queen

guitarist Brian May.

03

Drop by the Lakeside

Inn for a breezy pint by

the water at Southport’s

famously diminutive pub.

02

JONNYHILLSKI/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

JOHANN

KNOX/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

224

How to

Getting here Regular

trains from Lancaster

take around 35 minutes.

Ulverston is also well-

served by local buses.

There’s plenty of parking

throughout the town.

When to go Any time

of year is good, but it’s

hard to beat views of the

snowy fells in winter.

Festivals Each year in

December the Dicken-

sian Festival takes over

Ulverston with stalls of

hot mulled wine, street

performers and costume

parades, with many

stallholders themselves

dressing up in Victorian

garb. If you prefer com-

edy, Another Fine Fest

fills the town with giggles

every June.

The Perfect G&T in

ULVERSTON

GIN | CRAFTS | CULTURE

48

These days there’s a gin for every taste or occasion, and the fells

around Ulverston, as well as a tiny distillery tucked away in the town,

hold the key to the perfect gin and tonic. It’s very much a ‘don’t be

fooled by appearances’ town, with wonderful surprises hiding behind

unlikely facades, making it a place that aways merits a second glance.

NORTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

CHRIS

BLADE

©

225

Far left Juniper berries

Below Dickensian Festival

Left Cumbria Crystal

Create Your Own Flavour

There are thousands of gins in the world and juniper – the one

ingredient they all share – grows wild on Birkrigg Common,

south of Ulverston.

In 2016 Shed 1 Gin began distilling in a shed behind a house

in a quiet corner of the town, and it has already mopped up

a stash of awards, including the Icons of Gin. It’s a net-zero

producer that sources many ingredients locally and has re-

purposed old pallets into window boxes to grow its own. Next,

it opened the Calf Shed with distillery tours and delicious

homemade G&Teas (see what they did there?). You can also

make your own gin or even get married in the shed.

Booths supermarket car park is nearby and, on the far side,

in an unassuming industrial unit, is Cumbria Crystal, which

has made hand-blown and hand-cut luxury crystal for royalty,

James Bond and Downton Abbey. Crystal is a truly green

product with all breakages recycled into new items. The whole

process from sand to polished glasses takes place here, and

there’s a viewing gallery where you can watch it all happening.

So, buy a glass from the factory outlet, grab a tonic from

Booths – top tip from Shed 1 Gin: ‘Don’t worry too much about

the tonic, but avoid ones that are too heavily flavoured’ – and

head along the canal to Canal Foot for glorious views across

Morecambe Bay.

š Cumbrian Juniper

Juniper is so essential to

the local landscape that

the Cumbria Wildlife Trust

has undertaken an exten-

sive Uplands for Juniper

planting programme. It

can grow pretty much

anywhere but particularly

thrives on Cumbria’s

limestone terrains. The

bushes grow low to the

ground and can live for

more than 250 years,

with 40 different species

relying on them. Because

sheep don’t eat them,

they act as a‘nursery’,

protecting saplings as

they grow. Berries take

two years to mature, so a

female juniper bush will

always have both green

(immature) and black

(mature) berries. Juniper

also works well with roast

lamb – the historic Bay

Horse pub at Canal Foot

serves a proper one with

all the trimmings and has

magnificent views across

Morecambe Bay.

NORTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

RADHARC

IMAGES/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

ANTONIO

SIWIAK/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

226

How to

Getting here There are

regular local buses serv-

ing the town and ample

parking for drivers. You

can usually nab a space

on the main street but

watch for restrictions.

When to go During sum-

mer it’s the perfect place

to escape the big crowds

in nearby Keswick, and

the flowers in the gardens

at Wordsworth House will

be at their finest.

Top tip The Taste Cum-

bria festival in September

is fabulous for everything.

A stroll along the river to

Great Broughton after-

wards is a great aid to the

digestion.

POETS &

Swashbucklers

LITERATURE | HISTORY | RIVER

49

The wide avenues and racing rivers of Cockermouth are a definite step

away from the main trail through Cumbria, but one visit and you’ll be hooked.

The town, inhabited since the Romans arrived, flourished in the Georgian

era. The high street is now a refreshing mix of independent coffee shops, local

traders and historically significant buildings.

NORTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

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Fletcher

Christian

Wordsworth

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227

Left Wordsworth House

Below Fletcher Christian pub

Riverside Words & Deeds

William Wordsworth, Cumbria’s most famous son, was born

and raised in Cockermouth. Wordsworth House is owned by

the National Trust and is open throughout the year with an

inventive calendar of activities, including dressing up, cooking

in the kitchen and listening to Wordsworth readings in the local

accent. Feel free to ask the guides lots of questions: they paint

a vivid picture of what life was like for the Wordsworth family

and have plenty of tidbits to share – including the recipe for

capon ale, if you ask nicely.

The other local hero, HMS Bounty mutineer Fletcher Christian,

was born on the outskirts of town. Legend has it that there’s a

boot print on the roof of the summer house there that belongs

to him and, when he was filming The Bounty, Mel Gibson

clambered on the roof to take a look. Christian’s home is now

a working dairy farm closed to the public, but the Fletcher

Christian pub on High St is a hive of activity and entertainment.

Cockermouth is the place where the River Cocker and River

Derwent meet, making for picturesque walks and chilly dips –

but also challenging floods. Look for the water-level marker on

the Black Bull pub to see how hard the town was hit during

Storm Desmond in 2015. Still, the locals are a hardy bunch,

and the Taste Cumbria festival ran just one week after the

floods.

ı

The Wordsworth

Siblings

Wordsworth House

celebrates the lives of

both Dorothy and William

Wordsworth, born just 18

months apart. Dorothy

was a huge influence on

her brother, and their

relationship was closer to

that of twins rather than

siblings. Aged just six,

Dorothy was sent away to

live with an aunt after her

mother died, something

that deeply scared her

and led to the siblings re-

maining close throughout

their lives. She brought

order to William’s chaos

and kept meticulous jour-

nals of their many walks,

which they would read

together – an activity that

inspired William to write

his famous‘I Wandered

Lonely as a Cloud’(aka

‘Daffodils’) poem.

NORTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

CHARLESY/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

228

A Grand Tour of the

LAKE DISTRICT

STEAM TRAIN | BOATS | SCENERY

Ditch the car and follow in the footsteps of the Victorian

travellers who explored the mountains and valleys of the Lake

District by steam train, boat and charabanc. Today, buses 555 and

559 replace the original charabancs, but the rest remains the same.

50

Trip Notes

Getting here Steam off from the Lakeside and Haverthwaite Railway at

Haverthwaite; there’s ample parking but it gets busy in summer. For best value,

look for combo tickets that include the boat – you can only buy them on the day.

When to go Visits from Easter to October will be quieter. If you like a bit of

colour and don’t mind the cold, it’s hard to beat late autumn.

Top tips The boat from Lakeside has an excellent commentary, and there are

drinks and toilets on board. Pick up the bus from Ambleside, and sit upstairs if

you can for the best views.

e

Gothic Halls &

Roman Villas

Near the top of

Windermere, look

for the gloriously

Gothic Wray Castle

(pictured) peering

through the trees and

make time to visit the

ruined Roman fort in

Ambleside. Sit on the

right side of the train

for the best views;

note that bus 559 is

open-top – perfect

whatever the weather.

NORTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

FROM LEFT: NAME/CREDIT ©, NAME/CREDIT ©

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FROM LEFT: HELEN HOTSON/

SHUTTERSTOCK ©, STAN

PRITCHARD/ALAMY STOCK

PHOTO ©, ANDYROLAND/

GETTY IMAGES ©, A D HARVEY/

SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The railway opened in June

1869; tourists originally arrived

near Canal Foot via steamboat

from Fleetwood on the far side of

Morecambe Bay. Enjoy a waterside

meal here at the Bay Horse.

01

Derwentwater in

Keswick was the backdrop in

Star Wars: The Force Awakens,

where the Millennium Falcon

swooped down over the lake

and stormtroopers invaded

the Jaws of Borrowdale.

05

What is now Thirlmere Reservoir

was once a pretty valley, with two small

lakes separated by a series of bridges,

and a popular picnic spot with local

poets such as Wordsworth and Coleridge.

04

Beatrix Potter lived near

the lake and the scenery

inspired many of her tales.

Visit her Hill Top house in Near

Sawrey or The World of Beatrix

Potter attraction in Bowness.

03

Hidden away in the woods

above the railway is Finsthwaite

Tower, commemorating the lives

lost by the British, Spanish, Dutch

and French navies at the Battle of

the Nile in 1798. A path leads to the

tower from Newby Bridge Station.

02

NICK

DAGGER

PHOTOGRAPHY

©

JONATHAN

BEAN

PHOTOGRAPHY

©

230

How to

Getting here Lancaster

is on the West Coast

Main Line, with London

2½ hours away to the

south, and Glasgow a

shade over two hours

to the north. Parking is

pricey but there’s a park-

and-ride next to the M6.

When to go Autumnal

walks along the river are

hard to beat, and summer

in Williamson Park is an

absolute treat.

Top tip If you’ve got your

bike, cycle the greenway

to Morecambe for a day

out at the seaside.

LANCASTER,

the Festival City

MUSIC | LITERATURE | THEATRE

51

Lancaster’s pretty sandstone buildings and elegant spires

could give any Cotswold town a run for its money. Plus, Lancaster

comes with tales of romance, witches and music, too. Castle tours

are filled with stories of the city’s dark and gruesome past, but

throughout the year a series of fabulous festivals show the city in a

completely different light.

NORTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

ROBIN

ZAHLER/LIGHT

UP

LANCASTER

©

231

Far left Lancaster Music Festival

Below Lancaster Litfest

Above Light Up Lancaster

Books, Beats & Bulbs

The city celebrates the written word in March when Lancaster

Litfest takes over with cafes, auditoriums and libraries playing

host to one of the oldest literary festivals in the country.

Founded in 1978, today it supports local authors and show-

cases international talent, and has a growing programme of

year-round workshops, exhibitions and reading campaigns.

Through July and August, The Dukes theatre brings to life the

wonders of Williamson Park with the Play in the Park. Magical

sets, stunning costumes and thrilling lighting designs trans-

port the audience into a world of imagination and fascination.

The adventure is made all the more fun with a pre-show picnic

against the spectacular backdrop of Morecambe Bay.

In October the city rocks to a different beat as the Lancaster

Music Festival swings into town. Spread over 30 venues, it

boasts more than 200 different acts and 300 performances

over just four days. Most of the events are free and there are

venues across the city, including the medieval castle and

priory.

Finally, banish the winter blues in November with Light Up

Lancaster. The city is illuminated with lights, lasers, building

projections and a spectacular fireworks display launched from

the grounds of the castle. There are outdoor films and live

performances, and everyone attending is encouraged to wear

their own personal light-up accessories.

ť

Window-Shopping,

Lancaster-Style

Light Up Lancaster’s

opening weekend features

beautiful displays in vacant

and occupied shopfronts

across the city, many of

which have an interactive

or immersive element

to them. Most of these

installations are up for a

couple of weeks after the

official event, so if you want

to enjoy them with fewer

folks about, a midweek visit

is a great option.

n By Melanie McKay, owner

of Ethel & Em yarn shop in

Lancaster @ethelandemshop

NORTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

BILLY

STOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

PA

IMAGES/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

232

How to

Getting here There’s

a regular rail service

from Lancaster (and

infrequent direct trains

from Liverpool and Man-

chester), local buses and,

of course, the seafront

trams. Parking is easy

most of the year with

plenty of huge car parks.

Look for free parking

around the far ends of

the prom.

When to go The famous

illuminations fill the town

every autumn but it’s

usually not too busy mid-

week; enjoy the miles of

golden sands all summer.

Top tip Cycling is a

great way to experience

Blackpool, but the tram is

a great option too.

BEYOND

Blackpool Tower

CYCLING | SEASIDE | HISTORY

52

Get beyond the ‘Kiss Me Quick’ hats and piles of sticky pink rock to

discover another side to Blackpool. Explore the promenade by bike – it’s flat and

it gives you a chance to see a very different side to this iconic seaside town. If

you fancy seeing even more, take a detour down to Lytham St Annes for the full

experience.

NORTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

KEVIN

BRITLAND/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

233

Far left Blackpool illuminations

Below Sooty

Left Comedy Carpet

From Sea to Shining Sea

Starting from the tram terminus on the south shore, look for

the sculptures that line the prom. The Great Promenade

Art Show features 11 interesting artworks worth pausing to

admire. One of the installations, They Shoot Horses, Don’t

They?, is the UK’s largest dancehall mirror ball, covered with

more than 47,000 mirrored tiles.

The prom and the piers were built in the late 19th century as

seaside holidays grew in popularity. The illuminations began

in 1912 and, bar short breaks for the two world wars, have

been a feature of the town ever since. The Pleasure Beach

amusement park, which was founded in 1896, is still run by the

granddaughter of one of the original founders.

Allow plenty of time to enjoy the Comedy Carpet directly in

front of the Blackpool Tower – it’s filled with comedy quotes

from across the decades and there’s bound to be something

there to make you smile.

Look out for more historic sculptures through Cleveleys

before you swing into Fleetwood. There you will find the North

Euston Hotel, so called because it was the terminus for trains

from London Euston. The first manager once worked as a

courier for Napoleon and also founded the first-ever railway

refreshment room.

ť

The Puppet from

Blackpool

Blackpool is the birthplace

of many comedy giants,

but perhaps none more

famous than kids’TV star

Sooty, who was bought

from a shop near the

North Pier. Harry Corbett

bought the puppet to

entertain his son Matthew,

who took over presenting

The Sooty Show many

years later.

There have been many

Sooties over the years, but

one of the oldest surviving

puppets is on display on

the pier, along with a fam-

ily history which shows

that Sooty wasn’t the only

star in the family – Harry

Corbett’s uncle was Harry

Ramsden, who founded

the world-famous fish and

chip shops.

NORTHWEST

ENGLAND EXPERIENCES

Sanctuary Stone

URBANIMAGES/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

ť Weird & Wonderful

Mr Smith’s Dream

Find this miniature depiction of a local pet-

shop owner’s dream, created by ceramicist

Liz Scrine, in the wall of the Manchester Craft

and Design Centre.

John Ryland’s Toilets

Spend a penny on an original wooden Victo-

rian toilet in a stunning setting – it’s located

in the basement of John Ryland’s Library in

Manchester.

Penelope Sculpture

Discover the bright circular orbs of the Jorge

Pardo sculpture from the 2008 Liverpool

Biennial on the city’s Wolstenholme Sq.

Sanctuary Stone

The stone lying within the pavement on Liver-

pool’s Castle St is a remaining boundary-

marker stone from the medieval markets.

Stanley Dock Tobacco Warehouse

Head to Liverpool’s Regent Rd to experience

the world’s most enormous brick-built ware-

house (15 hectares), which was at the heart of

the tobacco trade of the early 1900s.

H Indie Eateries

Elnecot

££

Stylishly simple bar in Ancoats neighbourhood,

with a friendly atmosphere. There are veggie

and vegan options and it’s the place to stop by

if you want to try the famous Manchester egg.

Frankie’s Toasties

£

Brush up on your Mancunian words and enjoy

some ‘proper’ toasted sandwiches. Frankie’s

on Portland St is where you can sample a hot

Vimto cordial in a traditional yet modern cafe

setting.

Open Kitchen

££

At the People’s History Museum in Man-

chester, this cafe and bar turns perfectly

good waste food into sustainable, ethical and

delicious food and drink.

Egg Cafe

£

Home-cooked vegetarian and vegan food in

a cosy bohemian setting on the top floor of

a Grade II–listed building in Liverpool. It’s a

great stop for a vegan cake and coffee.

Welsford Bistro

£

Head to the Liverpool Cathedral for afford-

able, delicious and unpretentious food, from

a full English breakfast and beans on toast to

traditional scouse and sausage rolls.

r Vintage Vibes & Curios

Empire Exchange

Step down below Manchester’s Newton St

into a treasure trove of antiques, memorabilia

and knick-knacks galore.

Listings

BEST OF THE REST

234

NORTHWEST

ENGLAND REVIEWS

Vintage Emporium at Pear Mill

This Grade II–listed mill in Stockport is a won-

derland of vintage and antique goods. From

furniture to pepper pots, it’s a warren of the

bygone days. Look up outside the mill to spot

the giant golden pear on the roof.

69A Liverpool

The words eccentric and eclectic come to

mind when talking about 69A, located near

the Bombed Out Church in Liverpool. A city

townhouse filled to the brim with antiques

and curios, it’s well worth a browse.

Afflecks

Multifloored maze of independent stalls and

bizarre boutiques. A Manchester Northern

Quarter institution to get happily lost in.

ħ Coffee & Cake

Siop Shop

££

A dog-friendly cafe with a focus on quality,

Siop serves delicious vegan cakes from its

cosy corner location on Tib St in Manchester.

Bagelry

££

Vegan doughnuts that will delight with every

bite, from the traditional jam-filled to maple,

pecan and salted pretzel. On Liverpool’s

Nelson St.

Pot Kettle Black

££

Enjoy a coffee or brunch underneath the glass

ceiling of Manchester’s Barton Arcade, or

there’s a branch in Angel Gardens.

Thoughtfully Cafe

££

This perfectly cosy spot has a great selection

of cakes, bakes and pastries. Located on

Cleveland Sq in Liverpool.

Ġ Walking & Talking

Modernist Society

Take in some of the northwest’s best post-

industrial buildings, art and urban features on

tours led by expert guides. With chapters in

Manchester, Sheffield, Leeds, Liverpool and Bir-

mingham, tours run in and around these cities.

Invisible Manchester

Explore the city’s historical landmarks and

social projects led by tour guides who have

experienced homelessness. Each guide

shares stories of Manchester from their

perspective and what made them fall in love

with Manchester.

Liverpool Eco Tours

Sustainable and responsible walking and

e-bike tours led by local Dale Roberts. Choose

from city, Beatles and football-themed tours.

Scranchester Tours – Eat the City

Pun-tastic multi-stop food tour, covering

Manchester’s history, science and plenty of

tastes along the way. Usually lasts around 3½

to four hours.

Afflecks

TERRY

HAMLETT/SHUTTERSTOCK

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235

NORTHWEST

ENGLAND REVIEWS

236

Practicalities

ARRIVING

MONEY

RESPONSIBLE

TRAVEL

ESSENTIALS

GETTING

AROUND

SAFE TRAVEL

Right Brick Lane (p56), London

ACCOMMODATION

WILLIAM

PERUGINI/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

248

243

238

ENGLAND NEED

TO

KNOW

237

DESTINATION EXPERIENCES

238

EASY STEPS FROM THE AIRPORT TO THE CITY CENTRE

ALEXANDRE

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CUSTOMS REGULATIONS

Travellers can bring the following goods into the UK tax- or duty-free: 200 cigarettes,

100 cigarillos, 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco, 18L of still table wine, 42L of beer, 4L

of spirits or strong liqueurs or 9L of fortified wine, sparkling wine or other alcoholic

beverages of less than 22% volume.

AT THE AIRPORT

SIM CARDS

SIM cards for

unlocked phones

can be pur-

chased from four

SimLocal stores

across three

Heathrow termi-

nals: Terminal 2

Arrivals, Terminal

3 Arrivals, Terminal

3 Baggage

Reclaim Hall

and Terminal 5

Arrivals. Stores are

open 6am to 9pm

every day; those

in Terminal 3 are

open until 10pm.

TRAVELEX

You can order

travel money with

Travelex for pick-

up at Heathrow

Terminals 2 to 5.

There are also sev-

eral ATMs in every

terminal, though

the exchange rate

at them is likely to

be higher. Rates

in central London

may be more

favourable.

WI-FI Free wi-fi is available at Heathrow in

each terminal. Just choose _Heathrow Wi-

Fi and follow the on-screen instructions.

ATMS ATMs at Heathrow are available

before and after security control in all

terminals. There’s an interactive map at

heathrow.com.

CHARGING STATIONS Free Power

Pole charging stations (taking UK and

European plugs and USBs) are in all

terminals, before and after security.

London is the primary entry point for most visitors to England and it has six major airports: Heathrow,

Gatwick, Stansted, Luton, City and Southend. With four operational terminals and two runways, Heath-

row is by far the busiest airport and handles most of England’s long-haul flights. Terminal 5 (pictured)

mostly serves British Airways and operates an underground people-mover between its main concourse

and two satellite buildings.

ENGLAND ARRIVING

239

OTHER POINTS OF ENTRY

Other airports Airports in Manchester, Birmingham, Liverpool, Bristol, East Midlands and Newcastle serve

northern, central and southwestern parts of England. The majority of these offer routes to UK and European

destinations, though Manchester does have some long-haul services. While you may arrive in London, you

can tailor your trip to leave from a regional English airport.

Train The high-speed Eurostar train runs under the English Channel and connects London’s St Pancras Sta-

tion with various European cities, including Paris, Brussels, Amsterdam and Rotterdam. Fares can be very

reasonable if booked ahead, and services between city centres can make it more time-efficient than flying.

Ferry Key international ferry ports include Dover, Folkestone, Harwich, Plymouth, Poole and Portsmouth in

southern England and Hull, Liverpool and Newcastle in northern England. Prices among ferry companies

are competitive and it’s a greener alternative to flying. Crossing times vary greatly, from just over an hour

on the shortest routes to between 20 and 36 hours for destinations in Spain.

LeShuttle This shuttle train service between Folkestone, England, and Calais, France, allows visitors to

bring their cars via the Channel Tunnel. Journey time is 35 minutes; fares start from £59.

Train The Heathrow Express to London Paddington

Station departs every 15 minutes from Terminals

2 and 3 (journey time 15 minutes) and Terminal 5

(journey time 18 minutes). The Elizabeth Line, from

terminals 2 to 5, to Paddington takes around 30

minutes. Buy tickets from ticket machines or pay

using contactless.

Underground The Piccadilly Line is the only under-

ground service running from Heathrow Terminals 2

to 5 to central London. Journey time is around 50

minutes. Buy tickets at machines or use contactless

or an Oyster card. Underground trains leave roughly

every 10 minutes.

GETTING TO THE CITY CENTRE

Chauffeur WeKnow

(weknowlondon.com)

offers a fully electric

luxury service from

Heathrow Airport.

Heathrow’s service

(chauffeurit.com) offers

a fixed-price transfer to

any UK destination.

Taxi Black cab ranks

are outside every termi-

nal, though trips can be

expensive (£61 to £114

to central London). It

makes more sense if

you’re in a group of four

or more.

ENGLAND ARRIVING

Bus National Express coach is a cheap way to travel

around the country. Coaches go direct to London

Victoria Station where they connect with the rest of

England. Direct coach services to other cities from

Heathrow are also available. Allow time between

landing and the coach leaving, however, in case you

miss your connection through delays.

240

Transport

Price

Time

TRANSPORT TIPS TO HELP YOU GET AROUND

DRIVING ESSENTIALS

Drive on the left; the

steering wheel is on

the right.

The blood alcohol limit

is 80mg per 100mL of

blood.

The Give Way Sign

(upside-down triangle)

indicates you must

slow down on approach

and give way to all

other traffic nearing

the junction.

The legal driving age

is 17.

The speed limit is

70mph (112km/h) on

motorways and 30mph

(48km/h) in built-up

areas.

CAR RENTAL

PER DAY

London Zone 1

contactless

journey £2.70

Petrol approx

£1.36/litre

from £65

JOURNEY PLANNING Your first stop for planning train jour-

neys should be National Rail Enquiries (nationalrail.co.uk),

England’s nationwide timetable and fare information service.

The website advertises special offers and has real-time links

to station departure boards and downloadable maps of the

rail network. Plan ahead and book off-peak times, if possible,

for the cheapest fares. The ticket-splitting service TrainSplit

(trainsplit.com) is a great way of saving money on fares,

particularly on one-way journeys.

LONG DISTANCE

If you have a

higher budget,

train travel is the

quickest way to

get across the

country and you’ll

never have to

travel more than

four to five hours

to get from one

end of England to

the other (though

you may need to

change).

COACH

Coaches are

nearly always the

cheapest way

to get around

England, although

they’re also the

slowest. Major

coach companies

include National

Express, Megabus

and FlixBus.

Many towns have

separate stations

for coaches so

make sure to use

the right one.

CAR HIRE While driving means being

able to reach remote parts of England,

downsides for drivers include regular traffic

jams (even on motorways), the high price

of fuel and rental, the cost of insurance and

parking fees in cities and tourist towns.

LONDON UNDERGROUND The Tube is the

fastest and cheapest way of getting around

central London. Contact less payment has

made it even easier to get around the capital

and journey times are often quicker than taxi

due to traffic jams above ground. Contactless

is much cheaper than buying single tickets.

Despite higher ticket prices than can often be found in

Europe, travelling by train is still the best way to get around

in England. Unlike larger countries, England’s compact size

and high density mean there aren’t too many areas that can’t

be reached by train quickly and efficiently. Make sure to book

in advance for the best fares.

ENGLAND GETTING

AROUND

GIVE

WAY

70

241

LOCAL BUS Local buses are a cheap,

if somewhat slower, way of getting

around and are often the only way to

reach some rural spots if you’re not

driving. CityMapper is a handy app for

planning the quickest journey between

points, especially if you’re combining

transport options.

BICYCLE Hiring a bike is an excellent

way to see England’s great outdoors.

In particular, look out for greenways

(pictured left) and spectacular

disused railway lines that have been

converted into cycling routes. England

is still a notoriously car-centric

country, however, and most cities are

not very cyclist-friendly.

PLANE England doesn’t have a big network of domestic flights, but there are some long

cross-country routes that are costly and time-consuming by train (eg going from Exeter

or Southampton to Newcastle). However, these flights are often expensive (rates fluctuate

substantially), and the time saved becomes less beneficial once airport transit times are

factored in.

ENGLAND GETTING

AROUND

DAVID

HUGHES/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

KNOW YOUR

CARBON FOOTPRINT

A domestic flight from London

to Manchester would emit about

113kg of carbon dioxide per

passenger, whereas the carbon

emissions of London Paddington

to Manchester Piccadilly by train

is 11.41kg (309km travelled per

passenger).

There are a number of carbon

calculators online.

ROAD DISTANCE CHART (MILES)

Bristol

95

Cambridge

100

155

Leeds

115

210 150

Liverpool

100

175

195

75

London

125

120

60 195 225

Manchester

85

170 180 45

35 205

Newcastle

205 295 235 100 170 280 145

Nottingham

55

140

90

75

110 130 75 160

York

135

225 160 30 105 205 75 85 85

Birmingham

Bristol

Cambridge

Leeds

Liverpool

London

Manchester

Newcastle

Nottingham

242

EVANNOVOSTRO/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

ALEX

YEUNG/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

PHARMACIES

Pharmacies can be found in all cities

and towns, while common medications

such as paracetamol or hay fever tablets

are available in drug sections at most

supermarkets and newsagents.

TAXIS

Never use an unlicensed taxi. If the

taxi doesn’t have a meter, discuss

the fare before getting into the taxi to

avoid misunderstandings when you

arrive at your destination. Use Uber

or black cabs, if possible.

REMAIN ALERT and be aware of your surroundings, especially

when using your phone. A particular crime that has seen an

increase in London is phone snatchings via mopeds and bikes,

sometimes mounting the pavement to swipe the phone out of

your hand. Therefore, be vigilant when using your phone in public.

TRAVEL INSURANCE is vital. Emergency medical treatment

is available to all free of charge at NHS hospital Accident &

Emergency departments (A&E). An EU-issued EHIC card covers

medically necessary healthcare in England. Otherwise, if you’re

not normally resident in the UK you will need to pay for most

non-emergency medical treatment.

PETTY CRIME such as pickpocketing and purse snatching

occurs particularly in tourist areas, airports, restaurants, pubs

and bars, underground pedestrian walkways and on public trans-

port. Ensure that your personal belongings, including passports

and other travel documents, are secure at all times and never

flagrantly show off affluence like large sums of cash.

EMERGENCIES

Dial 999 to reach

either the police,

fire or ambulance

departments in

an emergency.

Calls are free

from any public or

private phone, but

should be made

only in genuine

emergencies.

DRINKING

Drink spiking is

a real threat in

England’s bois-

terous drinking

culture, especially

for women. Never

leave a drink

unattended or

accept drinks from

strangers and try

to stick together

with friends.

While England’s mild maritime climate means it isn’t susceptible to natural

disasters or extreme weather, it’s always worth being streetwise. This is especially

true in London, with its vast population and high concentration of tourists.

SAFE TRAVEL

ENGLAND SAFE

TRAVEL

243

CURRENCY

HOW MUCH

FOR A…

QUICK TIPS TO HELP YOU MANAGE YOUR MONEY

meal for two

£60

pint of beer

£5

coffee

£3

Pound

TAX

VAT (Value Added Tax) is a 20% sales tax charged on most

goods and services sold in England – exceptions are food,

books and children’s clothes.

Since the UK government ended the VAT-refund Retail Export

Scheme on 1 January 2021 after Brexit, there is no longer any

tax-free shopping or VAT refunds for non-EU residents.

CONTACTLESS

Contactless methods like phone (Apple

Pay or Google Pay) or card have become

the predominant way of paying for goods

and services in England. In fact, some

cafes now no longer accept cash, so check

ahead. In most places, you can still use

cash (featuring Queen Elizabeth II or King

Charles III, though not paper banknotes)

but contactless is quicker, easier and safer.

PAYING THE BILL

While cafes may

have table service,

it’s normal to pay

your bill at the

counter when

ready to leave.

Just ask what they

prefer.

CASH

Having some cash

is handy in certain

situations such

as for restaurant

tipping or at

pop-up markets

(particularly in

small towns).

CREDIT CARDS are widely accepted

throughout England. American Express

and Diners Club are less popular than

Mastercard and Visa. Credit cards often

charge high fees at ATMs, so consider

bringing or ordering cash in advance.

ATMS (‘cash-

points’ or ‘cash

machines’) are

found in city

centres; those

attached to banks

do not charge for

withdrawing cash.

Independent ATMs

(eg at newsagents)

might charge any-

thing from £3 to

£5 for withdrawals.

MONEY

CHANGING is not

a problem, and

licensed currency

exchange vendors

are found in most

city centres and

airports. Some

supermarkets

(like Marks &

Spencer) and post

offices also offer

currency exchange

services at

competitive rates.

TIPPING Not expected in England, though

it is always appreciated.

Restaurants The total on your bill is all you

need to pay (often a service charge is au-

tomatically factored in). If you like, reward

good service with 10% to 15%.

Taxis If you round up your fare, don’t be

surprised if the driver hands back change.

Services like Uber include tipping options

on the app, but there’s no pressure.

Guides Tour guides will happily accept tips.

but contactless is quicker, easier and safer.

ENGLAND MONEY

244

CALLUMS

TREES/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL

GIVE BACK

Make a donation Help plant trees and create new woodland for the

wildlife that needs it at Woodland Trust (woodlandtrust.org.uk).

Volunteer to improve the environment Nature Volunteers

(naturevolunteers.uk) offers everything from a one-off morning

beach clean to a weekly butterfly survey.

Support social enterprises Seek out businesses that give back

to their community. Search for these at Social Enterprise UK

(socialenterprise.org.uk/buysocial).

Visit wildlife reserves and protected areas and support

organisations conserving wildlife and biodiversity. The National

Trust (nationaltrust.org.uk/nature-and-wildlife) has lots of good info

on where to find its nature reserves and best practices.

Tips to leave a lighter footprint, support local and have a positive impact on local communities.

ON THE ROAD

Calculate your carbon There are

a number of useful calculators

online. Try carbonfootprint.com/

calculator.aspx.

Buy a flight adaptor for

headphones during in-flight

entertainment This will mean no

need to open a plastic packet of

single-use earphones.

Plan ahead Mapping your route

in advance will save on petrol and

limit emissions in case you get

lost or go on long-winded detours.

Reusable bags, cups and cut-

lery Make a handy eco-friendly

travel kit.

Consider hiring an electric car

For travel to hard-to-reach rural

destinations.

Seek out green accommodation

The internet is your friend when

it comes to finding sustainable

places to stay. Accommodation

that focuses on energy-saving

lighting, use of ecological

cleaning products and organically

sourced food, for example, can

be found at Ecobnb (ecobnb.com).

Leave no trace Pick up after

yourself after any pitstops along

the way.

ENGLAND RESPONSIBLE

TRAVEL

245

WEI

HUANG/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL

Lonely Planet urges all travellers to engage with their travel carbon

footprint, which will mainly come from air travel. While there often isn’t an

alternative, travellers can look to minimise the number of flights they take,

opt for newer aircrafts and use cleaner ground transport, such as trains.

One proposed solution – purchasing carbon offsets – unfortunately

does not cancel out the impact of individual flights. While most destina-

tions will depend on air travel for the foreseeable future, for now pursuing

ground-based travel where possible is the best course of action.

The UN Carbon Offset Calculator shows how flying impacts

a household’s emissions:

The ICAO’s carbon emissions calculator allows visitors to

analyse the CO 2 generated by point-to-point journeys:

RESOURCES

woodlandtrust.org.uk

ecobnb.com

naturevolunteers.uk

nationaltrust.org.uk/discover/

nature

socialenterprise.org.uk

LEAVE A SMALL FOOTPRINT

Travel by train Whenever possible, use trains

and avoid polluting car journeys and short-

haul flights.

Explore neighbourhoods Small adventures

giving back to local communities can make a

big difference to their lives.

Take tours with local guides in smaller

cities London is full of tourists, but many

lesser-visited cities with guides who would

love to show you around are easily reached

by train.

Cycle within cities If a city has good cycling

infrastructure, hop from place to place

by bike.

DOS & DON’TS

Don’t jump queues It isn’t

the English way, so respect the

processes in place.

Do say sorry Apologise if you ac-

cidentally bump into someone –

chances are they’ll say ‘sorry’ too,

even if it was your fault.

Don’t talk loudly in public The

English are reserved in public,

while becoming a gregarious

bunch after a few beers.

SUPPORT LOCAL

Spend money at independent businesses English

high streets are notoriously generic and filled with

chain stores, so seek out independent businesses.

Buy gifts and souvenirs directly from artists and

makers Avoid mass-produced tat from Union Jack–

emblazoned tourist stores and buy gifts from local

craft fairs or independent boutiques.

Eat locally Farmers markets are great for the

freshest produce and your money helps local farmers

survive.

ENGLAND POSITIVE-IMPACT

TRAVEL

246

ENGLAND ACCOMMODATION

ROY

HINCHLIFFE/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

GLAMPING

Glamping is the concept of reconnecting with nature

but swapping the basic living arrangements of

camping for a more luxurious setting. Whether it’s

a cabin, treehouse, yurt or pod (pictured left), these

21st-century boltholes are often accompanied by

lush scenery, campfires and hot tubs.

Approx £100 to £150 per night/adult

THE LANDMARK TRUST

One of England’s leading

conservation charities, The

LandmarkTrust (landmarktrust.

org.uk) restores historic and

sometimesbizarrebuildingsand

turns them into self-catering

holiday homes, such as Luttrell’s

Tower (pictured above). Its un-

usual accommodation options

range from coastal clock towers

and medieval longhouses to

cotton weavers’cottages and

18th-century libraries. There are

over 100 quirky and eccentrical-

ly English properties available,

but note that wi-fi is not

available as it wants to preserve

the experience and atmosphere

of staying at a Landmark.

Approx £52 per night/adult

BOUTIQUE

HOTELS

Smaller, style-

conscious and

often designed

with a specific

theme to stand

out from the pack,

boutique hotels

have become a

feature of city-

centre stays in

England for those

who aren’t on a

tight budget and

want something a

little less cookie-

cutter than the

usual marquee

names.

Approx £150 to

£200 per night/

adult

From stylish boutique hotels in London to rural B&Bs, England offers a wide variety

of accommodation across a range of price points. Spending a gregarious night

at an old pub might be the most English of all options, but this is a country with

interesting places to stay that cater to all travel itineraries.

ACCOMMODATION

HOW MUCH

FOR A…

Boutique hotel

from £160/night

B&B

from £80/night

Glamping

from £120/night

ROD

VARLEY/ALAMY

STOCK

PHOTO

©

247

ENGLAND ACCOMMODATION

PUBS, INNS & B&BS

The historic tradition of weary travellers stopping

for the night at a roadside inn means there are

plenty of pubs and B&Bs still offering this charming

and cheerful accommodation. Room numbers are

limited and wi-fi can be temperamental, but the

personal touch and instant access to a pint and a

good English fry-up (pictured) make for a seductive

stay. Prices are reasonable, but you

may have to email or phone directly

to book, as some places won’t be

listed on the usual booking sites.

B&Bs or pub stays are typically

best enjoyed when not on a tight

schedule so you can slip into the

slower pace of life in an idyllic coun-

try town or fishing village. Sample a

few local ales in the evening around

a warm fire with new friends, before

ambling downstairs the following

morning to clear the head with a

hearty full English breakfast while

hatching plans to explore the area.

The landlords won’t usually hurry you and are often

happy for the company, enjoying a good chat about

how far you’ve come and where you’d like to visit

(they’re good for local tips and hacks too, so don’t

be afraid to ask questions if you’re a city dweller out

of your comfort zone).

Approx £70 to £90 per night/adult

MOBILE HOMES &

CARAVAN PARKS

These classic English

budget self-catering stays

are often found close

to the coast. Cornwall

is a particular favourite

for this type of unfussy

family accommodation.

Bookings are usually for

seven days.

BOOKING

Destination tourist offices or local blogs are good places to start when

scoping out an area’s best accommodation options. Book well in advance

in peak tourist seasons: June through August, the Christmas period, Easter

and any other long weekends and bank holidays.

Lonely Planet (lonelyplanet.com/england/hotels) Find independent

reviews, as well as recommendations on the best places to stay.

Landmark Trust (landmarktrust.org.uk) Online bookings for restored

historic accommodation.

Trivago (trivago.co.uk) Wide-ranging online accommodation bookings

covering everything from luxury and boutique hotels to hostels and B&Bs.

Which? (which.co.uk/l/travel) In-depth reviews and advice on where to stay

and what to avoid.

Laterooms (laterooms.com) Hotel reservations providing discounted

accommodation and last-minute stays.

Secret Escapes (secretescapes.com) Offers and discounted prices on high-

end hotels and spas.

Holiday Pirates (holidaypirates.com/destinations/uk) Deals on UK

staycations in a variety of accommodation.

MONKEY

BUSINESS

IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK

©

248

An electronic travel

authorisation (ETA)

is required from April

2025 for all UK visitors

and transit travellers

who don’t require a

visa. Multi-entry ETAs

valid for two years cost

£10; apply in advance.

See gov.uk/guidance/

apply-for-an-electronic-

travel-authorisation-eta.

The minimum age to

purchase alcohol is 18.

Opening hours for shops

are generally Monday

to Saturday from 10am

until 5.30pm.

Many pubs, cafes and

libraries offer free wi-fi.

Electricity plugs have

three rectangular pins.

GOOD TO KNOW

ACCESSIBLE TRAVEL

Accessible dining can be difficult in older buildings and

more rural settings, though restaurants in modern city

centres and shopping malls are generally well equipped.

Booking an accessible hotel usually means planning

ahead. Many top English hotels and even budget hotels

will have rooms that cater for people with disabilities,

but it’s worth checking with them to make sure the

rooms are fully wheelchair-accessible, with handrails in

the bathroom and lowered sinks, for example.

Blue Badge Style (bluebadgestyle.com) features

news, reviews and information on the best and most

stylish accessible venues across the country, from

pubs and hotels to theatres and restaurants.

Larger train and subway stations have lifts. Station

staff will help travellers with disabilities on and off the

train with a temporary ramp.

Limitless Travel (limitlesstravel.org) is a leading

specialist holiday provider for people with a wide

range of mobility restrictions and conditions.

Every licensed black cab in London is wheelchair-

accessible and equipped with ramps.

Check accessibility updates in England atVisit Britain

(visitbritain.com/en/plan-your-trip/accessible-britain).

FAST

FACTS

Time Zone

GMT+0 hrs

Country Code

44

Electricity

230V/50Hz

SMOKING

Smoking indoors

has been banned

in England since

2007. Most pubs

offer outdoor

smoking areas,

however, and

smoking outdoors

isn’t a problem.

PINTS

If you ask for a

beer at a bar or a

pub, it will typically

be served to you in

a pint-sized glass.

GREETINGS

Shaking hands is standard between men,

while a hug and kiss is normal between

women.

ESSENTIALS

ENGLAND ESSENTIALS

249

DAVE

SMITH

1965/SHUTTERSTOCK

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LGBTIQ+ TRAVELLERS

England is one of the safest countries in the world for

LGBTIQ+ travellers.

Brighton has a particularly proud and long-standing

LGBTIQ+ community, while London’s Soho district is the

home of the capital’s gay scene.

Pride celebrations take place in several cities throughout

the summer, including London, Brighton (pictured),

Manchester and Birmingham.

Transphobia has resulted in hate crimes in England. Trans

Unite (transunite.co.uk) offers access to over 100 verified UK

transgender support groups.

FAMILY TRAVEL

Children under five may accompany

fare-paying train passengers free of

charge.

Admission to sights is usually free

for kids under five; children under 18

are usually charged a reduced fare.

Self-catering properties are usually

cheaper than hotels and offer more

flexibility and freedom.

Most pubs and restaurants have

a kids’ menu and some countryside

pubs feature children’s play areas.

Day Out With The Kids (dayoutwith

thekids.co.uk) is handy for working

out which attractions will suit your

family needs in England.

NAVIGATION in English cities is best

handled by apps like Google Maps. They’re

generally efficient for getting around while

incorporating all types of public transport

alongside live departure times. They can be

a drain on phone batteries, however, so a

spare battery pack is useful.

PUBLIC

HOLIDAYS

England has eight

public holidays

a year. Of these,

Christmas and

Easter are the bus-

iest for travellers.

TOILETS

Public toilets

are available in

England, but you’ll

find better-

maintained toilets

in shopping centres

and museums.

ALL RIGHT

You’ll often hear

‘all right’used as

a greeting. It just

means‘hello’and

isn’t actually a

question.

TUBE ETIQUETTE

On London’s Underground, you should let people off trains before you try to get on.

Always stand on the right on escalators.

Have your card, phone or ticket ready. London moves at a furious pace and you don’t

want an angry queue forming behind you.

ENGLAND ESSENTIALS

250

Index

000 Map pages

A

abbeys

Bolton Abbey 190

Fountains Abbey & Studley

Royal 188

Glastonbury Abbey 117

Lanercost Priory 203

Lindisfarne 196

Tresco Abbey Gardens 142

Whitby Abbey 182

accessible travel 248

accommodation 246-7

activities 16-23

air travel 241

amusement parks 80-1, 233

Appletreewick 191

aqueducts, see bridges &

aqueducts

archaeological sites,

see historical sites

art galleries & centres 14-15, see

also outdoor sculpture, street art

Barber Institute of Fine Arts

15, 173

Birmingham Museum & Art

Gallery 173

Hepworth Wakefield 199

National Gallery 71

National Portrait Gallery 71

Tate Modern 70

Turner Contemporary 80

Vaults, The 65

Whitworth Art Gallery 15

ATMs 238, 243

Austen, Jane 121, 144

B

bank holidays, see public

holidays

Banksy 15, 114-15

Bath 120-1

beaches

Bamburgh 197

Camber Sands 107

Isles of Scilly 141

Margate 81

Mersea Island 107

Norfolk Coast 94-5

Solent, the 128

South Downs 102

Southwest England 145

Viking Bay Beach 107

West Wittering Beach 107

Whitley Bay 197

beer 156-7

Berwick-upon-Tweed 196-7

Birling Gap 103

Birmingham 146-73, 148-9

accommodation 151

activities 168

discounts 151

drinking 151, 172, 173

food 151, 164-5, 172-3

history 154-5

internet access 151

itineraries 28-9, 148-9, 28-9

money 151

navigation 151

travel seasons 150

travel to 150

travel within 150

wi-fi 151

Blackpool 232-3

Blakeney 95

boat travel 12, see canals, ferries,

narrow boats, waterways

books, see literature

Bradford 187

breweries & distilleries

Haworth 181

Isles of Scilly 141

Midlands, the 156-7

Newcastle-upon-Tyne 198

Northeast England 179, 198

Shropshire Hills 159

Southwest England 144-5

Ulverston 224-5

Yorkshire 198

bridges & aqueducts

Avoncliff Aqueduct 119

Bridge of Sighs 82

Burnsall 191

Clifton Suspension Bridge 126

Five-Arch Bridge 79

Monsal Trail 161

Ribblehead Viaduct 191

Mathematical Bridge 82

Tower Bridge 70

Brighton 86-9

Bristol 114-15

budget, see costs

Burnsall 191

bus travel 239, 240, 241

C

Cambridge 82-3

camping 136-7, 246, 247

canals 12, 52-5, 82-3, 118-19

car hire 240

ENGLAND INDEX

251

car travel, see chauffeurs, driving

tours, taxis

caravan parks 247

carbon footprint 241, 244, 245

cash 243

castles 90-1, 126-7

Alnwick Castle & Gardens 199

Bamburgh 197

Cadbury Castle 117

Castle Howard 187-8

Ripley Castle 199

Stokesay Castle 159

Whitstable Castle 93

Windsor Castle 78

Wray Castle 228

charging stations 238

chauffeurs 239

churches & cathedrals

Durham Cathedral 199

Ely Cathedral 107

Gloucester Cathedral 107

Gustav Adolf Church 213

Hereford Cathedral 167

Holy Trinity Church 168

King’s College Chapel 82

Norwich Cathedral 107

St Bartholomew’s Church 50

St Michael’s at Burgh-by-

Sands 203

St Paul’s Cathedral 70

Worcester Cathedral 167

Cirencester 101

climate 16-23, 34

climate change 245

coaches, see bus travel

Cockermouth 226-7

Cornwall 138-9

costs 42, 76, 112, 150, 178, 210,

240, 243, 246

Cotswolds 100-1

Craster 197

credit cards 243

Cromer 95

Cumbria 206-35, 208-9

accommodation 211

drinking 211, 224-5

food 211

internet access 211

itineraries 208-9

money 211

navigation 211

sights 226-7

travel seasons 210

weather 211

wi-fi 211

currency 243

customs regulations 238

Cutty Sark 44-5

cycling 8-9, 241

Dalby Forest 199

Dartmoor National Park 136-7

Isle of Wight 130

Southeast England 78-9

D

Dark sky reserves

Midlands, the 152-3

Southwest England 135

Yorkshire Dales National Park 191

Dartmoor 136-7

disabilities, travellers with 248

distilleries, see breweries &

distilleries

Dracula 182-3

drinking 6-7, 242, 248, see

also breweries & distilleries,

pubs, vineyards

driving tours 94-5, 130-1, 158-9,

95, 131, 159

duty free 238

E

Eastbourne 103

electrical plugs 248

emergencies 242

etiquette 34, 245, 248, 249

events, see festivals & events,

sporting events

F

Falmouth 139

family travel 249

Farne Islands 197

ferries 239

festivals & events 16-23, see

also sporting events

BFI London Film Festival 19

Boardmasters 142

Bristol International Balloon

Fiesta 142

Camp Bestival 142

Chelsea Flower Show 23

Christmas markets 20

Cooper’s Hill Cheese-Rolling &

Wake 23

Cotswolds 101

Dark Skies Festival 191

Easter 22

Fringe! Queer Film & Arts Fest 15

Glastonbury Festival 16, 142

Goth Weekend 183

Great Promenade Art Show 233

Guy Fawkes Night 19

Hyde Park Winter Wonderland 20

Jane Austen Festival 121

Lancaster 230-1

Ludlow Marches Food & Drink

Festival 18

Pride celebrations 249

Proms, the 18

Rockaway Beach Festival 21

ENGLAND INDEX

252

000 Map pages

festivals continued

Stonehenge Summer

Solstice 142

Stonehenge Winter Solstice 20

Taste Cumbria 227

Taste East Devon Festival 143

Taste of Scilly 140

Upfest 115

Whitstable Rocks Oyster

Festival 17

films 37, 186-9

food 13, 35, see also individual

regions

chocolate 185

cream tea 113

curry 43, 151, 164-5

fish & chips 13, 89, 198-9

foraging 141

markets 13

pie & mash 58-61

seafood 89, 92-3, 141, 143-4,

196-7

street food 13, 77, 87, 185

vegan food 54, 61, 77, 88-9, 114,

145, 195, 234, 235

Yorkshire pudding 185

forests, see national parks &

nature reserves, parks & gardens

forts, see historical sites

G

geological sites 122-5, 131, 189

glamping 246

gorillas 105

Grassington 188-9

H

Hadrian's Wall 200-5

Hastings 97, 98-9

Haworth 180-1

Hereford 167

hiking 10-11, 102-3

Brontë Way 181

Dalby Forest 199

Dartmoor National Park 136-7

Hadrian's Wall 200-3, 205

Jurassic Coast 123, 133

Malverns, the 166

Nottinghamshire 169

Peak District 160-3

River Bollin Nature Trail 220-1

Shropshire Hills 158

South West Coast Path 123,

132-5

Yorkshire Dales National Park

190-1

historical sites 30-1, 30-1

Ambleside 228

Bath 120-1

Birdoswald Roman Fort 203, 205

Cockermouth 226-7

Hadrian's Wall 200-5

Housesteads Roman Fort 201

Northeast England 199

Portsmouth Historic

Dockyard 129

Roman Corbridge 202

South West Coast Path 133-4

Southwest England 117, 126-7

Vindolanda 203

Yorkshire 199

history

Birmingham 154-5

Hadrian's Wall 204-5

King Arthur 116-17

suffragettes 218-19

Whitby 182-3

holidays 20, 22, 23, 249

Hull 188

I

Ingrow West 180-1

insurance 242

Isle of Wight 130-1

Isles of Scilly 140-1

itineraries 24-33, 24-33, see

also individual regions

Birmingham 148-9

Cumbria 208-9

Lake District 208-9

Liverpool 208-9

London 40-1

Manchester 208-9

Midlands, the 148-9

Newcastle-upon-Tyne 176-7

Northeast England 176-7

Northwest England 208-9

Southeast England 74-5

Southwest England 110-11

Yorkshire 176-7

K

kayaking 84-5

Keighley 180

Kemble 101

Kennet & Avon Canal 118-19

Kettlewell 191

L

Lake District 206-35, 208-9

accommodation 211

drinking 211

food 211

internet access 211

itineraries 208-9, 228-9

money 211

navigation 211

travel seasons 210

weather 211

wi-fi 211

ENGLAND INDEX

253

Lancaster 230-1

language 35, 61, 249

Lawrence, DH 169

LGBTIQ+ travellers 62-3, 249

lidos 48-9

lighthouses 103

Lindisfarne 196

literature 36, 144, 168-71, 227

Liverpool 206-35, 208-9

accommodation 211

drinking 211, 213

food 211, 234, 235

internet access 211

itineraries 208-9

money 211

navigation 211

shopping 235

sights 212-13, 234

travel seasons 210

travel to 210

travel within 210

weather 211

wi-fi 211

London 38-71, 40-1

accommodation 43

activities 48-9, 52-5, 56-7, 62-3,

64-5

drinking 43, 69

entertainment 46-7

food 43, 58-61, 68-9

internet access 43

itineraries 24-5, 50-1, 62-3, 24-5

money 43

navigation 43

planning 40-1

sights 44-5, 66-7

travel seasons 42

travel to 42

travel within 42

wi-fi 43

London Underground 239,

240, 249

Ludlow 159

M

Malverns, the 166-7

Manchester 206-35

accommodation 211

activities 220-1

drinking 211

food 211, 234, 235

internet access 211

itineraries 208-9, 208-9

money 211

navigation 211

shopping 234-5

sights 214-19, 234

travel seasons 210

travel to 210

travel within 210

weather 211

wi-fi 211

Margate 80-1

markets 13

Broadway Market 55

Cotswolds 101

Florence Road Market 87

Grainger Market 195

London 71

Old Kent Market 81

Open Market 87

Midlands, The 146-73, 148-9

accommodation 151

activities 152-3, 160-3,

168-9

drinking 151, 156-7, 172

food 151, 172-3

internet access 151

itineraries 28-9, 148-9, 158-9,

166-7, 28-9

money 151

navigation 151

travel seasons 150

travel to 150

travel within 150

wi-fi 151

mobile homes 247

monasteries, see abbeys

money 238, 243

money changing 243

Moreton-in-Marsh 167

mosques

Central Mosque 107

Faizan E Madina Mosque 107

Shah Jahan Mosque 106

mountain biking, see cycling

museums 21, 34

British Lawnmower

Museum 223

British Museum 70

Canal Museum 53-4

Carriage Works 181

Charmouth Heritage Centre 123

Churchill War Rooms 65, 70

Cutty Sark 44-5

D.H. Lawrence Birthplace

Museum 169

Dracula Experience 183

Endeavour Experience 199

Hunterian Museum 51

Jorvik 199

London Transport Museum 70

Lyme Regis Museum 123

M Shed 114

National Maritime Museum 45

National Science & Media

Museum 187

National Space Centre 153

Natural History Museum 66-7

Old Operating Theatre 51

ENGLAND INDEX

254

000 Map pages

museums continued

Postal Museum 65

Rail Story 180

Roman Army Museum 202

Roman Corbridge 203

Science Museum 71

SeaCity Museum 129

Seven Stories: The National

Centre for Children’s

Books 195

Sill, The: National Landscape

Discovery Centre 201

Thinktank Birmingham Science

Museum 153

Tower of London 70-1

Tullie House Museum 202

Wilberforce House Museum 199

music 36

N

narrow boats 118-19

national parks & nature reserves,

see also parks & gardens

Cheddar Gorge 142

Dartmoor National Park 136-7

Exmoor National Park 133

Looe Island Nature Reserve 139

New Forest National Park 142

North York Moors National

Park 191

Northumberland National

Park 201

Peak District 160-3

Purbeck Heaths National

Nature Reserve 142

South Downs National

Park 102

Yorkshire Dales National Park

190-1

navigation 249, see

also individual regions

Newcastle-upon-Tyne 174-99,

176-7

accommodation 179

drinking 179, 198

food 179, 195, 196-7, 198-9

internet access 179

itineraries 176-7, 196-7

money 179

navigation 179

sights 194-5

travel seasons 178

travel to 178

travel within 178

water 179

wi-fi 179

Newquay 139

Norfolk Broads 84-5

Norfolk Coast 94-5

Northeast England 174-99, 176-7

accommodation 179

activities 180-1, 190-1

drinking 179, 181, 185, 191, 198

food 179, 184-5, 195, 196-7, 198-9

internet access 179

itineraries 26-7, 176-7, 186-9,

196-7, 26-7

money 179

navigation 179

sights 194-5, 200-5

travel seasons 178

travel to 178

travel within 178

water 179

wi-fi 179

Northwest England 206-35,

208-9

accommodation 211

activities 220-1

drinking 211, 213, 222,

224-5

festivals & events 230-1

food 211, 222, 234, 235

internet access 211

itineraries 26-7, 208-9, 222-3,

228-9, 26-7

money 211

navigation 211

shopping 234-5

sights 212-13, 214-19, 226-7,

232-3, 234

travel seasons 210

travel to 210

travel within 210

weather 211

wi-fi 211

O

Oakworth 181

observatories 153, 199, see

also dark sky reserves

opening hours 248

outdoor sculpture 192-3

Oxenhope 181

Oxford 167

P

paddleboarding 84-5

palaces & stately homes

Audley End House &

Gardens 106

Beaulieu 144

Blenheim Palace 106

Buckingham Palace 70

Chatsworth House 161, 162

Haddon Hall 162

Knole House 106

Longleat 144

Petworth House

& Park 106

ENGLAND INDEX

255

ENGLAND INDEX

Royal Sandringham 95

Wordsworth House 227

Pankhurst, Emmeline 218-19

parks & gardens 43, see

also national parks & nature

reserves

Abbotsbury Subtropical

Gardens 142-3

Beacon Hill 172

Cambridge University Botanic

Garden 106

Cannock Chase 172

Didsbury Park 215

Eden Project 142

Epping Forest 106

Fletcher Moss Park &

Parsonage Gardens 214-19

Forest of Dean 106

Greenwich Park 70

Hampstead Heath 69

Highbury Park 172

Hyde Park 69

Kew Gardens 70

Millgate Fields 215

Parsonage Gardens 215

Port Lympne Hotel &

Reserve 105

Queen Elizabeth Olympic

Park 55

Regent’s Park 54

RHS Garden Rosemoor 143

Sky Garden 69

Stenner Woods 215

Tresco Abbey Gardens 142

Victoria Park 55

Wilderness Wood 106

Windsor Great Park 78-9

Penzance 139

pharmacies 242

public holidays 20, 22, 23, 249

pubs 6-7, 247

Cockermouth 227

Hadrian's Wall 202

Liverpool 213

London 50-1, 54, 69

Midlands, the 156-7

Southeast England 77, 98, 102

Southport 222

Southwest England 119

Yorkshire Dales 191

R

radio 36

religious sites, see abbeys,

churches & cathedrals,

mosques, synagogues, temples

responsible travel 244-5

Ribblehead 191

Rye 96-9

S

safe travel 242

sailing 128-9

sculpture 192-3

Shakespeare, William 168-9

Sheringham 95

Shrewsbury 159

Shropshire Hills 158-9

SIM cards 238

smoking 248

social media 37

Solent, the 128-9

Southampton 129

Southeast England 72-107, 74-5

accommodation 77

activities 78-9, 82-3, 84-5,

104-5

drinking 77, 98, 102

food 77, 86-9, 92-3, 94, 101, 105

internet access 77

itineraries 24-5, 82-3, 86-9,

94-5, 100-1, 102-3, 24-5

money 77

navigation 77

planning 74-5

shopping 93, 96-9

travel seasons 76

travel to 76

travel within 76, 77

wi-fi 77

Southport 222-3

Southwest England 108-45,

110-11

accommodation 113, 136-7

activities 114-15, 120-1, 122-5,

128-9, 132-5, 136-7

drinking 113, 119

food 113, 129, 140-1, 143-4

internet access 113

itineraries 24-5, 110-11, 130-1,

138-9, 24-5

money 113

navigation 113

train travel 138-9

travel seasons 112

travel to 112

travel within 112

wi-fi 113

spas 120-1, 163, 173

sporting events, see also festivals

& events

Grand National 22

Oxford & Cambridge Boat

Race 22

Six Nations 21

Wimbledon 16

St Ives 139

Stoker, Bram 182-3

Stratford-upon-Avon 168-9

street art 56-7, 114-15, 213

256

000 Map pages

swimming 48-9, 124

synagogues 107

T

tax 243

taxis 239, 242

television shows 37

temples

Siri Guru Nanak Darbar

Gurdwara 107

theatres 46-7, 55

theme parks 80-1, 233

Tintagel 117

tipping 243

toilets 249

Tolkien, JRR 168

tours

boat tours 124-5

cycling tours 9

driving tours 94-5, 130-1, 158-9,

95, 131, 159

helicopter tours 161

street art 114

train tours 100-1, 138-9, 162, 166-

7, 180-1, 228-9, 139,177,229

tunnels 64-5

walking tours 10-11, 50-1, 62-3,

102-3, 10-11, 51, 63, 103

whale-watching 199

Whitby 182

train travel 35, 100-1, 144,

239, 240

Cornwall 138-9, 139

Haworth 180-1

Lake District 228-9, 229

Malverns, the 166-7, 167

North Yorkshire Moors 189

Peak District 162

Travelex 238

travel insurance 242

travel seasons 16-23, 34

travel to/from England 238-9

travel with children 249

travel within England 240-1

Tube, see London Underground

tunnels 64-5, 195

Tynemouth 197

U

Ulverston 224-5

V

vacations 20, 22, 23, 249

VAT 243

viaducts, see bridges &

aqueducts

villages

Cotswolds 101

Norfolk Broads 85

Peak District 163

Ripley 199

vineyards 131, 141, 144, 145

visas 248

volunteering 244

W

walking tours 10-11, 235, 10-11

London 50-1, 62-3, 51, 63

Southeast England 102-3, 103

water sports 124, 199, see

also canals, kayaking,

paddleboarding, sailing,

waterways

waterways 12, 52-5, 82-3, 84-5,

118-19, 128-9

weather 16-23, 34

Wells-next-the-Sea 95

whale-watching 199

Whitby 182-3

Whitstable 92-3

wi-fi 238, 248, see also individual

regions

wildlife 135, 199, 218-19, see

also zoos & animal reserves

wine, see vineyards

Worcester 167

Wordsworth, Dorothy 227

Wordsworth, William 227

World Heritage Sites 123, 134

Y

York 184-5

Yorkshire 174-99, 176-7

accommodation 179

activities 180-1, 190-1

drinking 179, 181, 185, 191, 198

food 179, 184-5, 198-9

internet access 179

itineraries 176-7, 186-9

money 179

navigation 179

travel seasons 178

travel to 178

travel within 178

water 179

wi-fi 179

Z

zoos & animal reserves

London Zoo 54, 70

Monkey World 144

Port Lympne Hotel & Reserve

104-5

South West Coast Path 135

ENGLAND INDEX

257

ENGLAND NOTES

258

ENGLAND BEHIND

THE

SCENES

THIS BOOK

Destination editor

Amy Lynch

Production editor

Will Allen

Cartographer

Mark Griffiths

Book designer

Jo-anne Riddell

Assisting editors

Ronan Abayawickrema,

Imogen Bannister,

Melanie Dankel, Alison Killilea,

Ailbhe McMahon,

Anne Mulvaney

Cover researcher

Lauren Egan

Thanks

Fergal Condon, Gwen Cotter,

Karen Henderson, Kate

Mathews, Darren O'Connell

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about

the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic,

mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired,

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establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/legal/intellectual-property.
2nd Edition - Jun 2025
ISBN 978 1 83758 839 8

‘Whilst paddleboarding on the River Stour I spotted a sign

for a pub, so pulled over for a quick pint!’

EMILY LUXTON

‘We accidentally reached the Sycamore Gap at

sunset. The most scenic spot on Hadrian’s Wall was

magnificent and (surprisingly) deserted.’

JENNY ELLIOTT

‘We opened a secret door in the Underground station and

descended into a lost subterranean tunnel – there is always something

unexpected to discover in world-famous London, sometimes right under

your nose.’

JADE BREMNER

‘Meandering between canalside taprooms in Stirchley in search of

ever stranger styles of beer was the perfect way to spend a sunny

Saturday afternoon.’

JAMES MARSH

‘When I woke up that morning I had no idea I’d be spending the afternoon

feeding branches to a giraffe. Seeing its long, thick, grey tongue wrap

round the leaves to pull them off and swallow them down was

mesmerising!’

VICKY PHILPOTT

‘There is nothing better than sitting on Blackpool prom,

listening to an organ playing ‘Oh I Do Like to be Beside

the Seaside’ while eating candyfloss in the sunshine –

the perfect British seaside moment!’

BETH PIPE

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