Hiking the Black Hills Country

Hiking the Black Hills Country

A Guide to More Than 50 Hikes in South Dakota and Wyoming

Third Edition

Bert and Jane Gildart
Revised by Marcus Heerdt

An imprint of The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc.

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Lanham, MD 20706

www.rowman.com

Falcon and FalconGuides are registered trademarks and Make Adventure Your Story is a trademark of The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc.

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Copyright © 2021 The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc.

Previous editions of this book were published by Falcon Publishing, Inc. in 1996 and 2006.

Photos by Marcus Heerdt

Maps by The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including information storage and retrieval systems, without written permission from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote passages in a review.

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Information available

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Names: Gildart, Robert C. author. | Gildart, Jane, author. | Heerdt, Marcus, 1987-author.

Title: Hiking the Black Hills country : a guide to more than 50 hikes in South Dakota and Wyoming / Bert and Jane Gildart; revised by Marcus Heerdt.

Other titles: Hiking South Dakota’s Black Hills country

Description: Third edition. | Guilford, Connecticut : FalconGuides, 2021. | Series: Hiking guides series | Revised edition of: Hiking South Dakota’s Black Hills country / Bert and Jane Gildart. 2nd ed. 2005.

Identifiers: LCCN 2020055487 (print) | LCCN 2020055488 (ebook) | ISBN 9781493043088 (paperback) | ISBN 9781493043095 (epub)

Subjects: LCSH: Hiking--South Dakota--Guidebooks. | Hiking--Wyoming--Guidebooks. | Hiking--Black Hills (S.D. and Wyo.)--Guidebooks. | South Dakota--Guidebooks. | Wyoming--Guidebooks. | Black Hills (S.D. and Wyo.)--Guidebooks.

Classification: LCC GV199.42.S6 G55 2021 (print) | LCC GV199.42.S6 (ebook) | DDC 796.5109783/9--dc23

LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2020055487

LC ebook record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2020055488

The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of American National Standard for Information Sciences—Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992.

The authors and The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc. assume no liability for accidents happening to, or injuries sustained by, readers who engage in the activities described in this book.

To all of those who can hear the Black Hills calling…

Reviser Acknowledgments

Many individuals from the different public lands agencies and other organizations helped with the third edition of this book. Thank you to everyone who answered my questions and provided great insight.

I would like to thank: Sara Erickson, Samuel Ainsley, Benjamin Schumacher, Matthew Jurak, and Eric Carney from the various Black Hills National Forest ranger districts; Patty Ressler, Matthew White, Joanna Marshaus, and Andrea Fountain of the Black Hills Parks and Forests Association; Nickolos Myers and Joanne Ensley at Devils Tower National Monument; Tom Farrell from Wind Cave National Park; Connie Wolf at Badlands National Park; Bradley Block of Jewel Cave National Monument; Kobee Stalder of Custer State Park; Jim Jandreau, Bear Butte State Park; Tim Cowman, State of South Dakota Geologist; Mark Fahrenbach and Brian Fagnan of the South Dakota Department of Environment and Natural Resources; Jona Ohm, Strategic Communications Director for South Dakota Game, Fish and Parks; Curtis Price, Lecturer at the South Dakota School of Mines and Technology; LaRayne Woster, teacher at St. Joseph Indian School; William Welk of the Pennington County Highway Department; Jackie Wyatt, Vore Buffalo Jump; Marcus Lingl and LaDonna Droll from Vector; Martin and Lisa Freidel of Custer; the staff of the Hot Springs Public Library; Joe from Canyon Cab Company for picking me up at the end of the Centennial Trail; Danielle Billing of Twin Falls, Idaho; and Todd Tobin and Chris Hawkey for continued inspiration. If I have forgotten anyone, I am truly sorry.

This book would not have been possible without the guidance and support of Katherine O’Dell and David Legere from FalconGuides, who stuck by the project and believed in the importance of this revision even through a time of great difficulty in the world.

Meet Your Guides

About the Reviser

The reviser, Marcus Heerdt

Marcus Heerdt lives and works in the beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota in the southern Hills community of Hot Springs. He has a wandering spirit that has taken him to many amazing places. He first hiked to the top of Black Elk Peak when he was 11 years old and has been hiking ever since. His hiking adventures have taken him to each of the fifty states as well as faraway places such as Yukon Territory, Spain, Russia, and Kyrgyzstan.

Marcus loves taking pictures and writing stories about his adventures. His works have appeared in books, newspapers, magazines, and online publications. In his free time, he enjoys being near water swimming, kaya-king, waterskiing, and fishing.

About the Authors

Bert and Jane Gildart are self-described “wanderers,” seeking out special places across the country. Together they have hiked, biked, skied, and boated hundreds of miles throughout many wilderness and backcountry areas, in addition to exploring our national parks.

For thirteen summers Bert served as a backcountry ranger in Glacier National Park. He is the author of more than 400 magazine articles and eleven books.

Bert and Jane have collaborated on several FalconGuides including: Hiking Shenandoah National Park; Best Easy Day Hikes Shenandoah National Park; A FalconGuide to Dinosaur National Monument; and A FalconGuide to Death Valley National Park. When not off wandering, they make their home in northwest Montana, in the shadow of Glacier National Park.

Before You Hit the Trail

The following explains some of the basic information found in each hike description.

Hike Overview

This section provides a brief description of each hike, often listing some of its highlights.

Start

This is a short summary of the starting location for the hike.

Elevation gain

Elevation is generally the most important factor in determining a hike’s difficulty. The two numbers listed are the highest and lowest points reached on the hike. Sometimes the trailhead lies at the lowest point and the end lies at the highest point, but this is not always the case. Some of the hikes have several ups and downs on the way, requiring more elevation gain and effort than the high and low numbers indicate.

Absolute elevation also affects difficulty. At high elevations, lower atmospheric pressure creates “thin air” that requires higher breathing rates and more effort to pull enough oxygen into the lungs. It is important to know your own strengths and limitations.

Distance

Distances in this book refer to the total miles of a one-way, loop, lollipop, or entire trail system. Trail lengths have been calculated as closely as possible using a handheld GPS unit and two GPS watches along with official government topographic maps. However, the different sources do not always agree. All distances were rounded to the nearest tenth and any variations of GPS mileages were averaged or checked against official USGS maps.

Difficulty

Assessing a hike’s difficulty is very subjective. The elevation, elevation change, and length all play a role, as do trail condition, weather, and the hiker’s physical condition.

Trails in this book are listed as easy, moderate, or strenuous. Trails that are short in length and have little elevation gain are usually rated as easy. With more elevation gain and trail length, the more difficult the trail will be. Many visitors to the Black Hills expect the area to be just “hills,” therefore making hiking relatively easy. This assumption is incorrect. The Black Hills are mountains, and hikers may encounter thousands of feet of elevation gain in one day. For example, one of the most popular trails in the area, Sylvan Lake to Black Elk Peak, has a total elevation gain of over 1,400 feet. Hiking a days-long segment of the Centennial Trail might yield 3,000+ feet of total elevation gain.

Poor trails, excessive heat, high elevations with thinner air, cross-country travel, and other factors may result in a more difficult designation than would otherwise seem to be the case from simply the elevation change and trail length. Carrying a heavy backpack can make even an “easy” day hike fairly strenuous.

Hiking time

The approximate hiking time is a rough estimate of the time within which the average hiker will be able to complete the hike. Very fit, fast-moving hikers will be able to complete it in less time. Slow-moving hikers or those preoccupied with activities such as photography may take longer. Most people can hike at 2 to 3 miles per hour. For longer hikes with more elevation changes, estimations are closer to 2 miles per hour. For short, flat hikes, 3 miles per hour can be easily attained. Rough trails or particularly big elevation changes are also factors. Carrying a backpack for overnight trips will add significantly to the time required.

Seasons

The season specified for a hike is the optimum or ideal season. In the Black Hills, summers are usually hot with chances of violent thunderstorms in the afternoon. Fall mornings and evenings are cool and crisp. Spring can be very wet and muddy. Winters can be harsh and unforgiving. Snow is possible in some areas of the Black Hills up to ten months out of the year. On average, the northern Hills receive more snowfall during the winter months than southern areas. Some trails may have ice late into spring. Always check local weather conditions and forecasts before heading out on a trail. This guidebook is written mostly to be used during the warm months. If venturing out in the winter, consider snowshoeing or cross-country skiing at trail systems that have groomed winter trails such as Eagle Cliff or Big Hill, which are included in this book.

Fees and permits

This section includes information about fees and permits needed to access hiking trails within the different public land agencies.

Trail contact

The trail contacts category lists the name, address, website, and phone number of the managing agency for the lands through which the trail passes. Call, write, or check the website for current information about the hike.

Dog-friendly

This section describes whether dogs are allowed on the trail. Generally, dogs need to be leashed where allowed. Please be courteous and pick up after your dog.

Trail surface

Trail surface describes the material that makes up the trail and setting. Examples include dirt path, forested trail, gravel road, etc.

Land status

The land status simply tells which agency, usually federal or state, manages the land in which the trail lies.

Nearest town

The nearest town is the closest city or town to the hike’s trailhead that has at least minimal visitor services. The listed town will usually have gas, food, and limited lodging available. In small towns and villages, the hours these services are available may be limited.

Other trail users

This describes the other users that you might encounter on the hike. Mountain bikers and horseback riders are the most common.

Maps

The maps included in this guide are as accurate and current as possible. Using these maps in conjunction with the hike description and the additional maps listed will add value to the hike.

The Black Hills National Forest publishes a map of the entire forest (for purchase) and includes many of the trails listed in the guidebook. This is referred to as the “Black Hills National Forest Map” in the guidebook. Black Hills National Forest also distributes free individual trail brochures (for example: Hell Canyon Trail No. 32). These can be obtained at the national forest’s district offices. National Geographic Trails Illustrated publishes three maps (for purchase) for western South Dakota: Black Hills North (Map No. 751), Black Hills South (Map No. 238), and Badlands National Park (Map No. 239).

Most of the National Park Service areas have maps or brochures showing the trails. Badlands National Park, Wind Cave National Park, Jewel Cave National Monument, and Devils Tower National Monument have brochures available. Similarly, state parks such as Custer State Park also have trail guides for visitors.

Finding the trailhead

This section provides detailed directions to the trailhead. The starting point is usually the nearest city, a park visitor center, or some other major landmark followed by how to get to the trailhead. Be sure to keep an eye open for the specific signs, junctions, and landmarks mentioned in the directions, not just the mileages. The map services available on cell phone GPS systems are often inaccurate or nonexistent in remote areas so use them with care. In addition, many require decent cell service to work, further lessening their value. Cell phone coverage in the Black Hills is nonexistent in many areas. Using a good map is recommended.

Most of this guide’s hikes have trailheads that can be reached by a sedan. Except in wet or snowy weather, only a very few usually require four-wheel drive. Rain or snow can temporarily make some roads impassable, and many roads close in winter. Before venturing onto unimproved dirt roads, you should check with local entities about current road conditions. On less-traveled back roads, you should carry basic emergency equipment such as a shovel, chains, water, a spare tire, a jack, blankets, and extra food and clothing. Make sure that your vehicle is in good operating condition with a full tank of gas. Try not to leave valuables in your car at all; if you must, lock them out of sight in the trunk.

For longer one-way or overnight hikes, you may need to arrange for a shuttle or use a two-vehicle system.

There are numerous private shuttle and taxi companies located throughout the Black Hills that will pick up and/or drop off hikers at trailheads. Inquire at a local Chamber of Commerce or visitor center to learn more about services provided.

Using a two-vehicle system can also be helpful when hiking over long distances, where members of the hiking party park one vehicle at trail’s end, then carpool together to the trailhead.

The Hike

This section provides the trail user an accurate description of each hike, what will be encountered along the trail, and other useful information. It is strongly suggested that you read the hiking description before setting out on the trail.

Miles and Directions

To help you stay on course, a detailed route finder sets forth mileages between signifi-cant landmarks along the trail. Again, it is strongly suggested that you read the hiking description along with the miles and directions before setting out on the trail.

 Map Legend

Boundary |
frn_fig_007 | State/National Park
frn_fig_008 | Monument/Preserve
frn_fig_009 | Private
frn_fig_010 | State
Transportation |
frn_fig_011 | Interstate
frn_fig_012 | US Highway
frn_fig_013 | State Highway
frn_fig_014 | County/Forest/Local Road
frn_fig_015 | Unimproved Road
frn_fig_016 | Gravel Road
frn_fig_017 | Featured Trail
frn_fig_018 | Trail
Hydrology |
frn_fig_019 | Rivers/Creeks
frn_fig_020 | Lake
frn_fig_021 | Waterfall
Physical |
frn_fig_022 | Cliff
frn_fig_023 | Mountain/Peak
Symbols |
frn_fig_024 | Accommodation
frn_fig_025 | Amphitheater
frn_fig_026 | Campground
frn_fig_027 | Dam
frn_fig_028 | Devils Tower
frn_fig_029 | Overlook
frn_fig_030 | Mount Rushmore
frn_fig_031 | Par k Office
frn_fig_032 | Parking
frn_fig_033 | Pass
frn_fig_034 | Point of Interest/Structure
frn_fig_035 | Picnic Area
frn_fig_036 | Town/City
frn_fig_037 | Trailhead
frn_fig_038 | Tunnel
frn_fig_039 | Visitor Center/Information
Physiography |
frn_fig_040 | Terrain (Shaded Relief)

Introduction

The Black Hills are a hiker’s delight. Contained in these 6,000 square miles of valleys and mountains are hundreds of miles of trails that provide great diversity. For one, they take you to splendid fishing. For another, they weave among incredible scenery sculpted by time and the elements to produce some of the nation’s most interesting geological formations. What all this results in is variety—something for everyone.

This book is intended to support your exploration. Readers will come away with a deeper knowledge of the area and the opportunity to connect more closely and experience more fully the wonders these lands offer. We respectfully acknowledge that this book covers the traditional land of Native Peoples.

For thousands of years, many different Native American groups lived in the Black Hills region. In the more recent past, the United States government guaranteed what is now present-day western South Dakota, including the Black Hills, to the Lakota Nation in the 1868 Treaty of Fort Laramie. However, with orders to find a location for a fort and investigate rumors of gold, Lieutenant Colonel George A. Custer led an expedition into the Black Hills in 1874. The expedition confirmed the existence of gold in the Black Hills and a gold rush followed, bringing thousands of gold seekers to the area. Following a series of violent conflicts, the US government took back the rights to the Black Hills from its Native American inhabitants in 1877.

Just what is this Black Hills Country? We think it is a hiker’s paradise. The Hills’ name was ascribed to them by Native People who live in the region and call them the Paha Sapa, meaning “hills that are black.” From a distance, the hills appear that way due to the predominance of ponderosa pines. The interplay of light and sun influence the overall effect of blackness produced by these trees. Despite the name “hills,” the Black Hills are actually a small mountain range in the middle of the Northern Great Plains.

Geologically, the land represents the easternmost extension of the Rocky Mountain uplift, which covers an elliptical expanse of nearly 6,000 square miles. The Black Hills themselves extend about 120 miles north to south and about 50 to 60 miles east to west. At an elevation of 7,242 feet, Black Elk Peak is the region’s highest mountain. This peak is contained in what geologists refer to as the central crystalline core, which contains the area’s oldest rocks (1.7–2.5 billion years old). Surrounding it are three rim-like features known as the Limestone Plateau (Pahasapa), the Red Valley (Spearfish Formation), and the Hogback Ridge (Lakota Formation). For ease of visualization, geologists suggest you picture these features in the form of an elongated bullseye pattern around Black Elk Peak.

For the purposes of this guide, we have included the Badlands, Devils Tower, and the Bearlodge Mountains in Wyoming, which were created by the same forces as the Black Hills. Although divided politically, these areas are contiguous geologically, and we discuss them together here.

With such diverse terrain, there is little wonder some of the region’s trails, such as the Centennial and the George S. Mickelson Trail, extend for more than a hundred miles, while others extend but for a few. We have included a wide range of trails. It is up to you to decide which of the many routes described herein you would like to hike. For hikers faced with this vast country, knowing where to start can be difficult. This guide provides the basic information that will help hikers select trails according to their abilities and interests. Start with our brief descriptions of each geographic region and its primary routes.

The book is divided into sections, one for each of the major geographic regions. Each of these sections begins with an overview, where we describe the reasons a person would want to hike a trail in that particular area. The aesthetics of the Black Hills’ incredible natural history as well as the history of those who have preceded us here through the ages often provide compelling reasons to wander. The overview also offers tips intended to facilitate your outing, something even veteran hikers might appreciate.

This guide is just that: a guide, not the final word on each trail listed here. Use topographic maps and other resources to round out your regional knowledge, and know your own limits and heed them. You will then enjoy your travels in the beautiful Black Hills Country and have a memorable hiking experience.

Clothing and Equipment

Comfortable clothes and footwear do more to make a hike pleasant than nearly any other items of equipment. The great variety of hiking and walking situations make it impossible to cover all personal needs in this introduction, but here are a few suggestions for a hiker’s attire: First, dress in layers. The layer closest to your skin should be a light, inner layer made of material that will wick away moisture from the skin. Next should be a warmer layer that can be removed if necessary. Over that, wear an outside layer that is wind-and/or rainproof. This layering system permits you to regulate your temperature easier by putting on or peeling off layers as weather and exertion dictate. Along with these basics, bring along a good rain poncho or coat as part of your standard hiking equipment. Rain, snow, sleet, and hail are frequent and unpredictable in the Black Hills.

Each hiker seems to have a different idea about what type of footwear to use. Boots or shoes are a matter of personal preference but, regardless of style and weight, they should be sturdy and supportive. Many people still wear good leather boots for serious hiking, while others prefer lightweight boots with breathable, water-resistant fabrics. The best advice we can give a beginner is to visit a good outfitter or outdoor-recreation store and try on several styles before finally deciding.

Planning the Hike

Hiking should be fun, even if you hike just for the benefits of physical fitness. To keep it that way, plan hikes that are within your physical ability. Do not attempt long trails or backpacking segments that are more than you can safely accomplish in daylight. Hiking after dark is not only uncomfortable but also dangerous, especially if you are not familiar with the topography and trail conditions. Know the terrain, and study maps before you depart.

Always leave an itinerary with someone before you leave. This should include where you will be hiking, where you will park, your estimated time for completing the trip, and whom to contact if necessary. This will lead help to you if by unlucky chance you have a trail accident, or if there is some other kind of emergency.

Hiking and walking seem so simple they lull hikers into being careless. No hike, whether a day hike or a week-long backpack trip, should begin without the basic essential of a first-aid kit and simple survival items. Think of it like fastening your seat belt before driving to the corner store—it is just as vital as using it on a 500-mile interstate trip. A first-aid kit is a very personal item, and its contents will depend on each hiker’s needs and concerns. For a day hike, it should contain at least adhesive bandages, gauze or gauze compresses, adhesive tape, an Ace or other brand elastic wraparound bandage, aspirin or other pain relievers, antibacterial ointment, moleskin, needles, and scissors (or a pocket knife with scissors). This can all go in a small plastic bag. A first-aid kit for overnight hikes should contain these same things as well as Benadryl or another antihistamine for allergic response, hydrocortisone cream, a mild laxative, something to combat diarrhea, and other personal items.

Survival kits can and should be efficient. Carry a compact space blanket or large garbage bag, a whistle, waterproof matches or a reliable cigarette lighter, a compass, a high-energy food bar, 10 or 20 feet of light nylon rope, and a small flashlight. These items are essentials. Keep them with you at all times, especially when on side trips away from your backpack or campsite.

And do not forget to bring enough water. Do not depend on trying to find potable water at trailheads. The pristine streams and lakes of the Black Hills are quite refreshing but may contain a microorganism called Giardia, which causes severe diarrhea and dehydration in humans. The microorganism is spread through the feces of wild mammals—especially by beavers, which inhabit many of the low-elevation stream systems. Any surface water supply is a potential source of this organism, and hikers who drink from lakes and streams take the risk of contracting the painful symptoms associated with this pestiferous microbe. Water can be rendered safe by boiling it for at least five minutes or by passing it through a filter system.

Weather in the Black Hills changes frequently and without warning. Winds sweep off the surrounding plains, and temperatures can drop frequently and without warning. We encountered snow while hiking in early September and at other times met cold winds accompanied by drenching rains.

Summer is one of the most pleasant times to hike in the Black Hills, but it can also be one of the most intense. Lightning storms are frequent and can be nerve-racking as we discovered one day while hiking toward the summit of Black Elk Peak. Streaks of lightning stabbed the suddenly darkened sky. If this happens, seek shelter away from open ground or exposed ridges. Even dropping a few yards off a ridgetop will reduce your risk. In a forest, stay away from single tall trees; look for a cluster of smaller trees instead. Avoid gullies or small basins with water in the bottom, and find a low spot free of standing water. Stay out of shallow caves, crevasses, or overhangs (numerous and inviting in the Black Hills). Ground discharges may leap across the openings. Dry, deep caves offer better protection, but do not touch the walls.

Whether you are in open country or in a shelter during a lightning storm, assume a low crouch with only your feet touching the ground. Put a sleeping pad or pack (make sure it does not have a metal frame or metal components) beneath your feet for added insulation against shock. Do not huddle together; members of a group should stay at least 30 feet apart. Then, if someone is hit, the others can give first aid. In a tent, get in the crouch position in your sleeping bag and keep your feet on a sleeping pad.

Watch for signs of an imminent lightning strike: hair standing on end; an itchy feeling one hiker described as “bugs crawling all over your skin”; an acrid, “hot metal” smell; and buzzing or crackling noises in the air. Tuck into a crouch immediately if any of these signs are present.

Hypothermia is another risk in the Black Hills, even in summer, since there are times when the factors contributing to bodily heat loss are present. Cold rains frequently drench the mountains, and it often hails and even snows. Temperatures need not be below freezing for hypothermia to be a threat. Most cases occur when temperatures range between thirty and fifty degrees, often coupled with windy and wet conditions.

People who are inappropriately attired and get wet in such inclement weather have set themselves up for hypothermia. Shivering marks the first stage. In advance stages, shivering stops, but only because the body is too weak to keep it up. This stage may be accompanied by slurred speech, clumsiness, and impaired judgment.

At the first sign of hypothermia, stop and change clothes: Get the victim out of the wet stuff. Feed conscious victims something warm and sweet, such as hot chocolate. Because acute hypothermia can lead to death, seek medical help.

Wildlife

Nature runs wild in the Black Hills, and hikers may face risks from wildlife or insects. Mosquitoes, a bane in other places, are few but still present, especially around stagnant water. Hundreds of mountain lions make the Black Hills their home. Mountain lions can be found in sparsely populated areas from the Black Hills to the Missouri River.

Sometimes bison use trail markers for scratching posts. Detour around them to continue your hike.

Lion attacks are rare—in truth, you will be fortunate to catch even a brief glimpse of one of these creatures. If you encounter a lion, remain calm. Back away slowly, taking care to make yourself seem as large as possible, yell and shout, but do not run.

A more likely animal encounter in Black Hills Country is with bison. Wandering bison often are encountered by hikers in Badlands National Park, Custer State Park, and Wind Cave National Park. Always be aware of the possibility of such encounters. If you do meet up with bison, do not panic. Quietly move away. Remember, if a bison alters its behavior in any way, you are too close. Never approach bison. Bison can run at speeds of 30–45 mph. Inquire directly with the public land agencies who manage bison herds to learn more about bison safety and safe distance recommendations.

Elk also inhabit the Black Hills region and are most commonly spotted in Wind Cave National Park and other remote areas. Transient black bears, moose, and lone wolves have been sighted wandering through the Black Hills in recent years. However, the likelihood of a human encountering these animals is low.

Ticks

Close encounters of the more personal kind may come as hikers find themselves carrying ticks. Contracting diseases associated with ticks is a distinct possibility. Ticks can appear any time of year if the temperature is above fifty degrees, even in January and February. If they attach to the skin, they begin to feed.

Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain spotted fever, or human granulocytic ehrlichia infection may result. General symptoms of these diseases include fever with shaking chills and severe muscle pain. Lyme disease also may produce a rash at the site of the tick bite.

The best way to prevent tick-borne disease is to prevent ticks from latching on to the skin. Wear long pants and tuck them into boots or bind bottoms with a rubber band. Wear long-sleeved shirts. Consider using a repellent containing DEET, which you should apply to skin and clothing. After a hike, conduct a tick search of your body and clothing.

If you find one, do not panic. The process of transmitting the disease takes hours. To remove a loose tick, flick it off with a fingernail. If the tick is firmly embedded, use tweezers to pinch a small area around the tick’s mouth and pull it out. Try not to squeeze the tick’s body, since this increases the risk of infection. Finally, clean the wound with an antiseptic.

Rattlesnakes are common in the Black Hills, particularly around prairie dog communities. If you have never heard a rattlesnake rattle, do not worry: You will recognize it—the sound is unmistakable.

Rattlesnakes strike when angered, and every few years someone in the Black Hills gets bitten. Although death from a rattlesnake bite is rare, it has happened. Snake venom is relatively slow-acting, allowing victims a chance to acquire medical attention.

Learning to avoid snakes and their bites is relatively simple: Watch where you step or sit down to rest. Wear high leather boots and long pants in snake habitat. Avoid hiking at night. Snakes usually hole up by day, then bask on sun-warmed rocks or sand when temperatures cool in the evening. Snakes generally hunt at night, too, so it is best to sleep in tents with sewn-in floors and zippered doors.

Poison Ivy

Poison ivy abounds in the Black Hills. Hikers easily can learn to identify poison ivy and avoid plants that have shiny foliage of three leaves. Remember the saying, “Leaves of three, let it be.”

Vines of poison ivy in the Black Hills sometimes reach shoulder height, particularly along streams such as French Creek in Custer State Park and Beaver Creek in Wind Cave National Park. In fall the plant is particularly deceptive, since its leaves turn a beautiful orange and the plant produces a white berry, somewhat similar to a snowberry.

Though many hikers prefer to wear shorts, to avoid poison ivy, we recommend that you wear long pants. Trails are sometimes narrow and, under those circumstances, skin exposure is almost certain.

If you suspect you have rubbed against poison ivy, wash the area immediately with water from a canteen or from a nearby stream. Washing within the first ten minutes can often prevent irritation. Ideally, you should place suspect clothing in a plastic bag until it can be thoroughly washed either in a stream or (best) by machine. If a rash appears, apply calamine lotion. Persistent rashes may require something stronger, such as a salve containing cortisone.

Trail Etiquette

Few things are more irritating or distasteful than finding aluminum cans, candy wrappers, and other litter along the trail. “Pack it in, pack it out” should be the working motto of every hiker. This is true for short day hikes as much as for the wilderness backpack trips. Get in the habit of taking an extra garbage bag on hikes just to pick up litter left by unthinking people on the trail. A clean trail is less inviting to those who litter.

Modern, lightweight camp stoves and lanterns eliminate the need for campfires and stone fire rings. Backpack stoves are ideal for wilderness camping or for brewing up a hot cup of coffee or bowl of soup. Open fires are prohibited in most Black Hills areas, further contributing to a philosophy of taking out what you have packed in.

Much of the Black Hills is a “multiple-use area,” meaning that ranchers and their livestock share the fields and woods. Hikers often encounter cattle gates, which should be left—open or closed—as they are found. Multiple use also means that hikers will share the trail with mountain bikers and horseback riders. Trail etiquette requires that bikers yield to hikers and that bikers and hikers yield to stock and riders. If stock is encountered on the trail, hikers should move quietly to the lower side of the trail to let the stock pass. Horses are sometimes spooked by sudden, unforeseen encounters, so make your presence known.

Trail etiquette also confers the responsibility to care for the environment and respect the rights of others. The public land agencies in this guidebook include: Black Hills National Forest; Wind Cave National Park; Badlands National Park; Jewel Cave National Monument; Devils Tower National Monument; Mount Rushmore National Memorial; Custer State Park; Bear Butte State Park; the South Dakota Department of Game, Fish, and Parks (George S. Mickelson Trail); and the Bureau of Land Management (Fort Meade portion of the Centennial Trail). Check with each individual agency for their unique restrictions and regulations.

Final Notes

Some general information for visitors to the Black Hills: South Dakota and/or Wyoming fishing licenses are required for all lakes and streams. Check with the South Dakota Department of Game, Fish, and Parks and the Wyoming Game & Fish Department for the most up-to-date licensing information.

Custer State Park holds an annual Buffalo Roundup, usually the last weekend of September. This event is open to the public and is an exciting time for all. The buffalo corrals are located along the Wildlife Loop Road, and visitors can watch the bison being driven to the corrals. Once the animals are corralled, visitors can then see how the bison are culled and inoculated. The Custer State Park annual Arts Festival is held on the same weekend as the Buffalo Roundup.

Mount Rushmore is one of the most popular attractions of the Black Hills area, but be sure to include a visit to the memorial to Crazy Horse (still being carved), located between Hill City and Custer. We suggest that hikers drive as many of the scenic roads of the Black Hills as possible. This will give you a better feel for the whole area and help you pinpoint trails that interest you.

Be aware that the Iron Mountain Road and the Needles Highway contain a series of tunnels, so it is important to know your vehicle’s height and width. Maps with the tunnel locations and their size restrictions are available at visitor centers in the Black Hills (such as a local Chamber of Commerce) and are listed on official Custer State Park maps and publications. Also, during winter, the Needles Highway closes for the season and the Iron Mountain Road often closes due to weather conditions.

The Black Hills Parks and Forests Association is a nonprofit organization supporting interpretive programs, educational activities, and research efforts to protect and preserve the cultural and natural resources of the Black Hills region. They have available a wonderful selection of books for all ages in their stores, which are located at their public lands partner locations or online at www.blackhillsparks.org. Topics available include natural history, Native American history, birding guides, hiking advice, children’s books, and coloring books.

Forest Recreation Management, an official partner of Black Hills National Forest, operates many of the campgrounds, boat ramps, day-use areas, and picnic grounds within the forest. Select areas require a day-use fee. Annual passes are also available for purchase. Visit www.fs.usda.gov/bhnf to learn more.

And one last note from the authors: Covering every trail in the Black Hills was not our goal. We chose to write up only those trails that are on public land and include only those that we felt gave the best views of each area. We apologize if we have left out your favorite trail or hike.

Help Us Keep This Guide Up to Date

Every effort has been made by the author and editors to make this guide as accurate and useful as possible. However, many things can change after a guide is published—trails are rerouted, regulations change, techniques evolve, facilities come under new management, etc.

We appreciate hearing from you concerning your experiences with this guide and how you feel it could be improved and kept up to date. While we may not be able to respond to all comments and suggestions, we’ll take them to heart and we’ll also make certain to share them with the author. Please send your comments and suggestions to the following address:

Globe Pequot Press

Reader Response/Editorial Department

246 Goose Lane, Suite 200

Guilford, CT 06437

Thanks for your input, and happy trails!

Bearlodge Mountains

The Bearlodge Mountains in the northeast portion of Wyoming make up the northwest section of the Black Hills. This northern extension formed between 50.5 and 38.3 million years ago. “The Bearlodge Mountains are unique,” says Jerry Hagen, former coordinator for the Bearlodge trails, “since they are a mosaic of eastern hardwoods and western coniferous forest.” Hikers here will pass astonishing vistas.

The Bearlodge range has hosted some intriguing historic events. For long periods the area was home to Native American nations, as evidenced by the thousands of artifacts left over many years at Vore Buffalo Jump, 12 miles east of Sundance, Wyoming. Archaeologists believe Native Peoples drove more than 10,000 bison over the jump. The site was used between the years 1550 to about 1800, with a total of 22 hunts conducted. The Bearlodge Mountains served as the backdrop for a Native American Sun Dance ceremony. The event later provided the name for the nearby town of Sundance, Wyoming, long before the notorious “Sundance Kid” served time in the town’s jail.

In 1874 the area surrounding the Bearlodge range hosted the Custer Expedition to the Black Hills. Wagon ruts from the Custer Expedition are still visible in the fields and valleys of the Bearlodge area, as are other trails of early settlers. Following the Custer Expedition, miners and homesteaders began making their way into the mountains here. In 1881 the Ogden family settled in what is now Ogden Canyon, followed by prospector Emil Reuter. Reuter so loved the area that he remained here until his death some thirty-two years after he arrived. Today his grave can be seen along Ogden Canyon Road.

Area ranchers also used the settlers’ trails, driving their cattle to water holes deep in the hills. They were followed later by firefighters, who created paths of their own and reinforced already existing trails. Out of these paths, Forest Service district managers created a trail network, dividing the trails into three systems: The Sundance System comprises 47.3 miles of trails; the Carson Draw System includes about 9 trail miles; and the Cook Lake/Cliff Swallow System covers 5.2 miles.

The Forest Service advises trail users to carry their own water or be prepared to purify water from springs and streams, and to be aware that they may meet up with poison ivy and rattlesnakes. Hikers in the Bearlodge Mountains are rewarded with experiences that range from true adventure to quiet, meditative walks.

Before embarking on one of the many trails within the system, hikers would do well to make the drive to the top of 6,656-foot Warren Peak, about 5 miles north of Reuter Campground on Forest Road 838. From this vantage point, you can familiarize yourself with the area’s major features, including Devils Tower, the Missouri Buttes, and other significant landmarks.

View of the Bearlodge Mountains from Warren Peak.

Sundance is 80 miles west of Rapid City, South Dakota, on Interstate 90 (I-90), and 32 miles west of Spearfish, South Dakota, on I-90. From the east, Sundance is 28 miles southeast of Devils Tower, Wyoming, by means of Wyoming Highway 24 (for 6 miles) and US Highway 14 (for 22 miles).

1 Cook Lake Trail

A level lakeshore hike around Cook Lake.

Start: At Cook Lake, 20 miles north of Sundance.

Elevation gain: 4,740 to 4,780 feet.

Distance: 1.5-mile loop.

Difficulty: Easy.

Hiking time: 30 minutes to 1 hour.

Seasons: Best from late spring into fall.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Bearlodge Ranger District, 101 S. 21st St., PO Box 680, Sundance, WY 82729; (307) 283-1361; www.fs.usda.gov/bhnf.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Dirt path, concrete sidewalk.

Land status: Black Hills National Forest.

Nearest town: Sundance, WY.

Other trail users: Mountain bikers.

Maps: Black Hills National Forest Map; BHNF Cook Lake and Cliff Swallow Trails Map No. 88 & 91.

Finding the trailhead: The trail is about 20 miles north of Sundance. From Sundance, proceed west on US Highway 14 to Forest Road 838 north. Follow FR 838 for 2.6 miles to Reuter Campground.

From the campground, go north on FR 838 to Forest Road 843. Take FR 843 north to Forest Road 842, and follow this road into the Cook Lake area. You can access the Cook Lake Trail at any point around the lake, but there is a convenient parking lot on the north side of the lake. GPS: N44 35.682' / W104 24.558'

The Hike

The Cook Lake Trail is self-explanatory, following a level route around the shore of Cook Lake. This trail gives you the opportunity to see various kinds of birds such as bald eagles, osprey, geese, ducks, and blue heron. The lake is stocked with brown and rainbow trout; anglers will need a Wyoming fishing license.

Note: At the time of publication, western portions of the Cook Lake Trail were closed. Trail users may still hike on the eastern and some parts of the northern shore of the lake until reaching the closure area. This special order by Black Hills National Forest is set to expire June 30, 2022; however, that date may be earlier if that section of the trail improves or later if that specific area is still too dangerous for hikers. The area was closed to study landslides on the west side of the lake due to oversaturated soil. To check on the current condition of the Cook Lake Trail, contact or visit a Black Hills National Forest district office, or check online at www.fs.usda.gov/bhnf.

2 Cliff Swallow Trail

A loop trail that follows Beaver Creek and provides opportunities to see cliff swallows nesting above the creek in the limestone areas.

See map on page 14.

Start: At Cook Lake, 20 miles north of Sundance.

Elevation gain: 4,630 to 5,130 feet.

Distance: 3.7-mile loop.

Difficulty: Moderate.

Hiking time: 2 to 3 hours.

Seasons: Best from late spring into fall.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Bearlodge Ranger District, 101 S. 21st St., PO Box 680, Sundance, WY 82729; (307) 283-1361; www.fs.usda.gov/bhnf.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Forested trail.

Land status: Black Hills National Forest.

Nearest town: Sundance, WY.

Other trail users: Mountain bikers.

Maps: Black Hills National Forest Map; BHNF Cook Lake and Cliff Swallow Trails Map No. 88 & 91.

Finding the trailhead: The trail is about 20 miles north of Sundance. From Sundance, proceed west on US Highway 14 to Forest Road 838 north. Follow FR 838 for 2.6 miles to Reuter Campground.

From the campground, go north on FR 838 to Forest Road 843. Take FR 843 north to Forest Road 842 and follow this road into the Cook Lake area. The trailhead parking lot is on the north side of the lake. GPS: N44 35.682' / W104 24.558'

The Hike

The Cliff Swallow Trail is intended for recreational hikers with an interest in natural history. If you take the loop hike going counterclockwise, the trail begins by paralleling Beaver Creek. Bur oak, aspen, and birch line the trail, while bluffs filled with cliff swallow nesting holes rise on the east side of the stream. Above the bluffs, turkey vultures ride the thermals. In fall, shrubs at trailside adorn the route with clusters of red berries. The area serves as prime deer habitat.

The trail is well marked with brown signs depicting cliff swallows. Along the way beaver dams impound the nearby stream, adding considerable interest to the outing. Hikers should search the stream for water ouzels, also known as “dippers” because of their tendency to perch on a rock and dip up and down into the water as they peer into the depths for insects.

When the trail veers off to the north and west away from Beaver Creek, the path begins to wind uphill. The trail ascends a series of switchbacks, none of which is particularly strenuous. The trail then crests, providing excellent views of the cliffs that serve as a seasonal residence for cliff swallows. Views of Cook Lake can be seen from

View of Cook Lake from the Cliff Swallow Trail.

the second rest bench. After this, the trail descends for about a mile and cuts across a campground before returning to the main road and trailhead.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the Cliff Swallow Trailhead, hiking in a counterclockwise direction.

0.6 Reach the first rest bench.

2.9 Second rest bench with views of Cook Lake below.

3.7 Complete the loop back at the trailhead.

3 Carson Draw Trails

Woods and canyon trails designed for four-season use, offering solitude in the Wyoming Black Hills.

Start: From the Reuter Trailhead, about 5 miles from Sundance, Wyoming.

Elevation gain: 5,339 to 5,704 feet.

Distance: 5.4-mile lollipop.

Difficulty: Moderate.

Hiking time: 2 to 4 hours.

Seasons: All.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Bearlodge Ranger District, 101 S. 21st St., PO Box 680, Sundance, WY 82729; (307) 283-1361; www.fs.usda.gov/bhnf.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Land status: Black Hills National Forest.

Nearest town: Sundance, WY.

Other trail users: Horseback riders, mountain bikers, cross-country skiers.

Maps: Black Hills National Forest Map; BHNF Sundance & Carson Draw Trails Map No. 87 & 93.

Finding the trailhead: From Sundance, proceed west on US Highway 14 to Forest Road 838 north. Follow the road 2.6 miles to the Reuter Trailhead parking lot just past the campground, where the trail system begins. GPS: N44 25.550' / W104 25.548'

The Hike

The Carson Draw Trails primarily have been used by cross-country skiers in the past, but these trails offer backwoods treks of great beauty and solitude year-round. Hikers and mountain bikers can make a loop hike within the trail system or go on a series of one-way hikes. You also can link up to the Sundance Trail System. Be alert for the presence of horseback riders, who also use these nonmotorized trails. Hikers with a good sense of direction (and a compass) can create their own circuits here. Make sure to pick up a free copy of the BHNF Sundance & Carson Draw Trails Map No. 87 & 93 at the Bearlodge Ranger District office in Sundance.

The system’s main trail (Carson Draw, Trail “E”) departs from the west side of the trailhead parking lot and heads southwest before swinging northwest. The path winds through prime habitat for elk, deer, and songbirds in stands of ponderosa pine, oak, and aspen. Various species of birds can be spotted on the trail, such as the red-headed woodpecker, hairy woodpecker, western tanager, white-breasted nuthatch, and dark-eyed junco. Also, on the beginning portion of trail, look through the trees for glimpses of Crow Peak, Inyan Kara Mountain, and Sundance Mountain. Wildflowers flank the trail in the spring and summer. After about 1.3 miles you will encounter a loop trail. By hiking north (counterclockwise) on the loop, you can circle around and return to your starting point. (Options: You may choose to branch off the loop after a little over 1 mile and head north to the Carson Cut-Across (Carson Draw Spur 1, Trail “F”), which connects with the Reuter Springs Trail. If staying on the loop, you will reach another one-way trail option at mile 2.7 (Carson Draw Spur 2, Trail “G”).) The latter portion of the loop trail passes through a small section of private property (Black Hills National Forest has a special use permit with the landowner); please remember to stay on the trail. After leaving the private property, the trail ascends back to the stem, which you will follow back to the trailhead parking lot.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the Reuter Trailhead parking lot.

1.1 Junction with multiple gravel roads; watch for trail markings and keep left on the trail toward a gate.

1.3 Join the loop by keeping right, hiking counterclockwise.

2.4 The Carson Draw Trail “F” to Carson Cut-Across is an option.

2.7 Carson Draw Spur 2, Trail “G,” is an option.

4.0 Return to stem; backtrack to trailhead.

5.4 Return to the trailhead parking lot.

Bear Butte State Park

We did not think of the great open plains, the beautiful rolling hills, and the winding streams with tangled growth, as wild. Earth was bountiful and we were surrounded with the blessings of the great Mystery.

—Luther Standing Bear
Lakota Nation

Bear Butte is not a butte at all, but a solidified intrusion of a certain type of igneous rock, formed in much the same way many other area mountains were sculpted (such as Crow Peak). Bear Butte is a laccolith made of rhyolite that was pushed through the surface by magma around 50 million years ago. The mountain is the easternmost exposed igneous intrusion from the Tertiary period in the Black Hills.

Although Bear Butte is not part of the Black Hills proper, its inclusion in this guidebook is justified for several reasons. Rising 1,200 feet above the plains, it is located just outside the northeast corner of the Black Hills, approximately 8 miles northeast of Sturgis, South Dakota, and is part of Bear Butte State Park. Bear Butte is also a starting or ending point for the Centennial Trail, which courses over 100 miles through the Black Hills and is described later in this book.

In 1965 the mountain was designated a registered Natural Landmark because of its exceptional value in illustrating a unique segment of the natural history of the United States. In 1973 Bear Butte was placed on the National Register of Historic Places because of its service as a beacon and its spiritual significance to Native American nations. The Cheyenne call the mountain Noavosse, meaning “Good Mountain,” while the Lakota call it Mato Paha, or “Bear Mountain.”

Native Americans who came here long ago generally climbed the mountain for spiritual reasons. Today they do much the same. We who follow in their footsteps should do so with a degree of humility, for Bear Butte is to many a sacred place. We discuss the trail here, overcoming our concerns that publicity will contribute to a desecration of this special place.

Spiritual leaders ask that as you hike the trail at Bear Butte, you comport yourself with reserve and some degree of somberness. Doing so, you may also feel the spirituality of the mountain. Observe off-limits signs and do not intrude on those who may be praying and meditating. Take only scenic photos and none of ceremonial objects or the Native Americans themselves.

Native Americans have tied prayer flags and bundles in trees over the many years of use, and these now number in the thousands. If viewed in the spirit of a naturalist—as one communing with nature—the flags’ presence adds to the beauty of the hike and to an appreciation of its antiquity. Please do not disturb them. Pets of any kind are not allowed on the trail. Mountain biking is not permitted. Water is available at the Education Center during normal business hours and on the trail, a couple hundred feet from the trailhead.

Bear Butte is a significant landmark in the Black Hills region.

4 Bear Butte

A beautiful, invigorating hike from the base to the peak of a sacred mountain. The trail winds through a burned pine forest area; many tree branches are draped with prayer flags and ceremonial objects.

Start: At the trailhead at Bear Butte State Park, located 8 miles from Sturgis, South Dakota.

Elevation gain: 3,378 to 4,426 feet.

Distance: 3.2 miles out and back.

Difficulty: Strenuous, due to a sharp ascent over a short distance.

Hiking time: 2 to 3 hours.

Seasons: Best from late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: Park entrance fee.

Trail contact: Bear Butte State Park, PO Box 688, Sturgis, SD 57785; (605) 347-5240; https://gfp.sd.gov/parks/detail/bear-butte-state-park/.

Dog-friendly: Dogs not allowed.

Trail surface: Rocky path.

Land status: Bear Butte State Park.

Nearest town: Sturgis, SD.

Other trail users: Hikers only. No bikes.

Maps: Bear Butte State Park management has provided a sketch map of the trails on an information sign at the trailhead. A map of the hike also may be obtained at the Bear Butte Education Center.

Special considerations: Summers are extremely hot. Hiking during extreme heat conditions is not recommended. Also, the trail may be very icy during winter months.

Finding the trailhead: From Sturgis, take South Dakota Highway 34 east for 5 miles to South Dakota Highway 79. Go north on SD 79 for 3 miles to the sign on the right for Bear Butte State Park. The trailhead is located near the Bear Butte Education Center, a 1-mile drive up the road from where you turn off SD 79. GPS: N44 28.099' / W103 25.249'

The Hike

Reminder: Pets of any kind are not allowed on the trail. Mountain biking is also not permitted.

The Bear Butte Education Center explains more about the area’s natural history and its significance to Native American groups. Outside the education center is a bust of Frank Fools Crow (1890–1989), the ceremonial chief of the Teton Lakota Sioux and a nephew of Black Elk. The park’s relatively short, steep trail provides an excursion imbued with beauty and spirituality. Simultaneously the trail provides access to the top of Bear Butte, which offers unspoiled panoramic views.

In 1996 a massive fire ravaged much of Bear Butte, consuming about 90 percent of the ponderosa pine trees on the mountain. The effects of the fire will remain for many, many years, but the surrounding grasslands are rebounding quickly. The natural process of fire and its part in ecology is evidenced in a huge way, one that you will see as you hike.

Begin the hike on the Summit Trail, which is well marked at the trailhead at the education center and serves a dual purpose here with the Centennial Trail. The dirt path is wide and ascends through stands of pine, crossing talus slopes and offering numerous switchbacks.

Follow the Summit Trail for 0.8 mile north to the point where the trail swings left (west) and reaches the first rest bench. At this point you can continue up to the peak on the Summit Trail or descend back to the parking lot, making a shorter hike of almost 2 miles. However, it is well worth the effort to continue to the peak.

The Summit Trail continues winding around the cliffs, with numerous switch-backs. Do not cut and make new trails between switchbacks. Where washouts might occur, park managers have placed log steps. The second rest bench is reached after 1.3 miles and you find yourself standing above an enormous talus slope. You reach the summit 0.3 mile later and are rewarded with commanding 360-degree views of the state park’s bison herd, ponds, farms, and cattle; of the Black Hills looming to the southwest; and of the Badlands to the east. Interpretive signs placed around the observation deck provide more specific details about what you can see in the distance, the geology of Bear Butte and the Black Hills, and the history of Fort Meade, Sturgis, and the Bismarck to Deadwood Trail.

From the peak, retrace the hike along the Summit Trail and descend back to the trailhead. While on your way back down from the peak, please remember not to cut switchbacks and make new trails.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the Summit Trail, going north from the education center.

0.8 Continue left (west) on the Summit Trail near the first rest bench.

1.3 Arrive at the second rest bench, standing above the talus slope.

1.6 Reach the summit of Bear Butte and the observation deck.

3.2 Return to the trailhead.

Option: Bear Butte Lake lies nearby to the south. There you will find a quiet 2.5-mile trail encircling the lake (this also connects with the Centennial Trail). A small campground sits on the lakeshore. Peaceful fishing is found in the lake and there is also a wheelchair-accessible fishing pier. There is a horse camp on the northeast side of the lake, but the portion of the park east of SD 79 is closed to horses.

Devils Tower National Monument

Devils Tower is 27 miles northwest of Sundance, Wyoming, along US Highway 14 and Wyoming Highway 24. It is about 33 miles northeast of Moorcroft, Wyoming, and 107 miles west of Rapid City, South Dakota.

Devils Tower rises abruptly 867 feet from its base in northeast Wyoming, looming over 1,200 feet above the Belle Fourche River (pronounced “bell-foosh”). Devils Tower was America’s first national monument, established by President Theodore Roosevelt in 1906. Hikers who tread these trails walk through millions of years of Earth’s past as well as more recent human history. Between 4,000 and 5,000 climbers attempt to scale its heights each year. The Tower’s first known climb occurred July 4, 1893, with the aid of a wooden stake ladder. Climbing is allowed year-round, with a voluntary closure during the month of June out of respect for Native American spiritual practices. Additionally, portions of the Tower may close to climbers each spring to protect nesting falcons.

Twenty-six Native American tribes have a special connection to the Tower, with six nations (Crow, Cheyenne, Kiowa, Arapaho, Shoshone, and Lakota) having a direct geographical relation to the area. The Lakota refer to Devils Tower as Mato Tipila, or “Bear’s Lodge.” Today the Tower is managed for its spiritual significance as well as its status as a national monument. Native American groups perform private ceremonies at the Tower. Signs near the Tower remind visitors not to disturb or photograph prayer flags and bundles.

Although the exact method of the Tower’s formation is still debated, geologists agree that approximately 50 million years ago, forces deep within the Earth pushed molten rock up until it was embraced by surrounding landforms. As the molten mass cooled underground, it condensed and cracked along joints, creating five-and six-sided rock columns—the cracks you can see on the Tower today. (These columns do occasionally fall, as evidenced by the piles of boulders that rim the Tower’s base. However, there have been no major column/rock falls since Devils Tower became a national monument in 1906).

After the Tower formed, it was then exposed at Earth’s surface to the forces of weathering and erosion. Since the solidified intrusion was harder than the rock and soil of the surrounding landscape, water and wind acting on the softer soil wore it away. With time, soil and rocks that had once engulfed the columns washed away, leaving only the massive projection that we see now. The Tower was exposed approximately 5 to 10 million years ago. In human terms, the immense time frame for such

sculpting of Devils Tower suggests inexorable forces. These processes are still in action, though the Black Hills are in no danger of losing the massive Tower that dominates Wyoming’s northeastern landscape anytime soon.

Although many come here to scale Devils Tower, the landscape surrounding the Tower should not go unnoticed. Almost 8 miles of trails exist in the national monument that provide different views of the Tower from every angle. The trails here also provide exquisite, sweeping views of the nearby Belle Fourche River.

Simultaneously, the trails provide an opportunity for detailed studies of black-tailed prairie dogs and other Great Plains residents. While hiking in the prairie dog colonies, be aware that prairie rattlesnakes make their homes in abandoned holes and tunnels. Also, check yourself for ticks after hiking through tall grass.

The National Park Service lists five trails at the monument, all of which are well marked and maintained. All trails at Devils Tower are relatively short, and though several climb rather steeply, none do so for long.

Note: At the time of publication, Devils Tower National Monument was in the process of a major accessibility improvement project. The parking lot area was undergoing major improvements, which will affect very small portions of the Tower Trail and the Red Beds Trail. The project will improve accessibility to the Tower Trail. The trailhead for both of these trails will remain the same, at the southeast side of the parking lot.

Devils Tower was America’s first national monument.

5 Tower Trail

A popular, heavily trafficked circuit trail around the base of Devils Tower.

See map on page 30.

Start: At the visitor center parking lot, which is 3 miles west of the entrance station.

Elevation gain: 4,262 to 4,488 feet.

Distance: 1.4-mile loop.

Difficulty: Easy.

Hiking time: About 1 hour.

Seasons: Late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: Park entrance fee.

Trail contact: Devils Tower National Monument, PO Box 10, Devils Tower, WY 82714; (307) 467–5283; www.nps.gov/deto.

Dog-friendly: Dogs not allowed.

Trail surface: Paved trail.

Land status: Devils Tower National Monument.

Nearest town: Sundance, WY.

Other trail users: Hikers only.

Maps: Devils Tower National Monument brochure.

Special considerations: Heavy trail use in the summer months.

Finding the trailhead: The trail begins near the park’s visitor center, on the southeast side of the parking lot. GPS: N44 35.413' / W104 43.186'

The Hike

The Tower Trail is perhaps the area’s most popular because it closely rings the base of Devils Tower and provides hikers with views of climbers as they scale the vertical columns. Along the way the park provides rest benches and interpretive signs. If you hike the trail counterclockwise, there is a mounted set of viewing binoculars around mile 0.4. One of the viewing tubes focuses on the remains of the old wooden stake ladder used in 1893 for the first Tower climb. Rock doves wing along the columns, and vultures often congregate near the top.

The path wanders through the boulder field and passes through stands of ponderosa pine. The trail also approaches columns that have sloughed off and have been modified by the weather. Geologically, this trail excites those interested in science and stirs the imagination in all who hike here.

6 Red Beds Trail

A longer hike around the Tower base than the Tower Trail, past red sandstone formations near the Belle Fourche River, with options to connect to other trails within the park.

See map on page 30.

Start: At the visitor center parking lot, which is 3 miles west of the entrance station.

Elevation gain: 3,901 to 4,302 feet.

Distance: 2.8-mile loop.

Difficulty: Moderate.

Hiking time: 1 to 3 hours.

Seasons: Best from late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: Park entrance fee.

Trail contact: Devils Tower National Monument, PO Box 10, Devils Tower, WY 82714; (307) 467-5283; www.nps.gov/deto.

Dog-friendly: Dogs not allowed.

Trail surface: Forested trail, dirt path.

Land status: Devils Tower National Monument.

Nearest town: Sundance, WY.

Other trail users: Hikers only.

Maps: Devils Tower National Monument brochure.

Finding the trailhead: The trail begins near the park’s visitor center, on the southeast side of the parking lot. GPS: N44 35.413' / W104 43.186'

The Hike

The Red Beds Trail also rings Devils Tower, but from a greater distance. Beginning at the visitor center and proceeding south (counterclockwise), the trail descends slightly. Rock formations soon obscure Devils Tower. At mile 0.7, the South Side Trail veers off to the right (south). (Option: This trail junction provides you with the option to explore a prairie dog town just on the opposite side of the park’s main road. See South Side and Valley View Trails in this book.) Following the recommended Red Beds Trail, the Valley View Trail is encountered only 0.3 mile later. (Option: This trail also heads south and parallels the Belle Fourche River through the prairie dog town.) When staying on the Red Beds Trail, the trail then lives up to its name as it passes through formations of red rocks (the red beds of the Spearfish Formation) near the Belle Fourche River. The river received its name from French fur trappers and traders who named it the “beautiful fork” of the Cheyenne River.

The trail then heads north through an open grassy area. At mile 1.6, a connector trail leads north and west to link up with the Joyner Ridge Trail, a 1.5-mile loop trail with outstanding views of the Tower. The latter half of the Red Beds Trail ascends several hundred feet where it approaches Devils Tower and ends back at the parking lot.

View of Devils Tower as seen from the Red Beds Trail.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the visitor center, hiking counterclockwise.

0.7 Junction with South Side Trail, which can be an optional detour.

1.0 Junction with Valley View Trail, which is also an optional detour.

1.6 Junction with an optional connector trail that leads to Joyner Ridge.

2.8 The Red Beds Trail ends back at the visitor center parking lot.

7 South Side and Valley View Trails

Two short, scenic trails near the Tower’s base, which can be combined to make a loop.

See map on page 30.

Start: From the Devils Tower amphitheater.

Elevation gain: 3,860 to 4,119 feet.

Distance: 1.3-mile loop.

Difficulty: Easy.

Hiking time: 1 to 11/2 hours.

Seasons: Best from late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: Park entrance fee.

Trail contact: Devils Tower National Monument, PO Box 10, Devils Tower, WY 82714; (307) 467-5283; www.nps.gov/deto.

Dog-friendly: Dogs not allowed.

Trail surface: Dirt path.

Land status: Devils Tower National Monument.

Nearest town: Sundance, WY.

Other trail users: Hikers only.

Maps: Devils Tower National Monument brochure.

Finding the trailhead: Both trails begin at the Devils Tower amphitheater, which is near the campground, about 1 mile from the monument’s entrance. GPS: N44 34.979' / W104 42.497'

The Hike

Each of the South Side and Valley View Trails is a short route that can be walked individually as an out-and-back, if hikers insist on maintaining the integrity of each trail’s name. Both trails wander through a town of black-tailed prairie dogs. The Valley View Trail lives up to its name by providing elevated views of the nearby river and valley.

We suggest hiking both trails as one clockwise loop. Begin your hike at the amphitheater at the northwest end of the campground. Hiking clockwise, access the South Side Trail to the left (north). You will pass an active prairie dog town on your right and, within 0.1 mile, will cross the main park road (Wyoming Highway 110). The trail now heads northeast. At mile 0.5, the Red Beds Trail comes in from your left (west). Stay to the right (east) here on the Red Beds Trail for about 0.3 mile. The Red Beds Trail then continues north (left); here, you take the Valley View Trail to your right (south) and soon cross the park road once again. The trail now parallels the prairie dog town to your right and the Belle Fourche River on your left.

Near the trailhead parking lot and amphitheater, you will see an interesting piece of art, a white sculpture named “The Circle of Sacred Smoke.” Junkyu Muto, a Japanese artist, created pieces of art for different locations around the world that hold special spiritual significance. This particular sculpture at Devils Tower was completed in 2008 and represents smoke from a traditional ceremonial pipe used by Native Americans.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at amphitheater at northwest end of campground.

0.1 Cross WY 110 (the main park road).

0.5 The Red Beds Trail comes in from the left (west). Access this trail to your right (east).

0.8 The Red Beds Trail continues north; at this point, take the Valley View Trail to your right (south).

0.85 Cross the park road once again; continue on Valley View Trail.

1.3 Return to the amphitheater.

Options: Start at the amphitheater and take either the South Side Trail or the Valley View Trail to link up with the Red Beds Trail, which circles Devils Tower and will bring you back to where you started. This would be a good option for those struggling to find a parking spot at the park’s visitor center.

8 Joyner Ridge Trail

A loop hike that provides more distant perspectives of Devils Tower and stunning views of the monument’s three major ecosystems.

See map on page 30.

Start: On West Road, 2.5 miles from the entrance station.

Elevation gain: 4,008 to 4,224 feet.

Distance: 1.5-mile loop.

Difficulty: Moderate.

Hiking time: 1 to 2 hours.

Seasons: Best from spring through fall.

Fees and permits: Park entrance fee.

Trail contact: Devils Tower National Monument, PO Box 10, Devils Tower, WY 82714; (307) 467-5283; www.nps.gov/deto.

Dog-friendly: Dogs not allowed.

Trail surface: Forested trail, dirt path.

Land status: Devils Tower National Monument.

Nearest town: Sundance, WY.

Other trail users: Hikers only.

Maps: Devils Tower National Monument brochure.

Finding the trailhead: Access this trail by following the park’s road from the entrance station for about 2 miles until it intersects with West Road, on the left. Take West Road 0.3 mile to the trailhead. GPS: N44 35.923' / W104 43.434'

The Hike

The loop known as Joyner Ridge Trail is most easily hiked in a clockwise direction. You will pass through the three major ecosystems at Devils Tower while on this route, including prairie, riparian, and ponderosa pine habitats. Deer abound throughout the area. The trail is well marked with interpretive panels along the way. Stay alert for prairie rattlesnakes. This is a quiet trail with the opportunity to view wildlife. Animals such as mule and white-tailed deer, rabbits, and chipmunks make their home in the park, as well as many species of birds, including bluebirds, chickadees, woodpeckers, meadowlarks, and hawks.

The trail begins by traversing the top of the ridge for about 0.7 mile, which provides excellent views of the north/northwest face of the Tower. The trail then quickly descends to a much cooler, forested area. The change is noticeable, especially on hot summer days. At mile 0.9, you will reach a junction with a connector trail. (Option: Use this to link up with the east side of the Red Beds Trail for a longer hike.)

Staying on the Joyner Ridge Trail, the trail goes through a forested area, then ascends through a grassy meadow before returning to the trailhead parking lot.

The Joyner Ridge Trail provides views of the Tower at more of a distance.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the trailhead on West Road. Hike in a clockwise direction.

0.9 Junction with a connector trail that leads to the Red Beds Trail. Keep right (west) to stay on the Joyner Ridge Trail.

1.5 The trail loops back to the trailhead.

Spearfish Area

The Spearfish Canyon area is so special that a National Scenic Byway winds almost 20 miles through the canyon walls and tree-covered slopes, providing a tour of unparalleled beauty. Hikers would be wise to drive this road, since it gives an excellent overview of this section of the Black Hills. Spearfish Canyon formations began to take shape approximately 62 million years ago. Geologically, three types of rocks dominate the canyon’s walls and can be clearly viewed in several places. The top (and thickest and youngest) layer is the Pahasapa Limestone and is usually gray. The middle layer is Englewood limestone and consists of reddish hues. The bottom is brown, layered, and referred to as Deadwood shale. Vertically formed dark gray rocks called phonolite intrusions may also be seen in some areas. Bridal Veil Falls drops from a formation that is a prime example of this condition.

Botanically, four distinctly different vegetative regions thrive in the canyon, which in itself is unusual. The area is a meeting place for plants, trees, and bushes from the Great Plains, the Rocky Mountains, and the Eastern deciduous and Northern forests. No clear explanation exists for such diversity, though it probably derives from ancient climatic changes. Another novelty, according to one brochure, is that Spearfish Creek is the only known river in the region that freezes from the bottom up.

Several trails exist side-by-side in Spearfish Canyon, including the Little Spearfish Trail, the Rimrock Trail Upper Loop, and the Rimrock Trail Lower Loop. These are high-country hikes, passing through stands of aspen, birch, pine, and spruce. Each provides both beauty and tranquility. Unfortunately, this area has experienced many severe weather events that have led to numerous downed trees and trail reroutes. This is detailed later in specific hike descriptions. The winter scenes of the movie Dances with Wolves were filmed in this canyon, and with a little imagination the tepees pitched in the snow and the drama portrayed of those long-ago times can be conjured easily. A small sign indicates the filming area, but there is fortunately no other hype about what occurred here. This area is known for its waterfalls. There are two short trails near Savoy that lead to waterfalls. Little Spearfish Falls is on the east side of US Highway 14A, and the trail begins on the north side of the restaurant parking lot. Roughlock Falls is just west of Savoy on Forest Road 222. Bridal Veil Falls is located 7 miles north of Savoy on US 14A.

Two campgrounds, Rod and Gun Campground and Timon Campground, are situated along Little Spearfish Creek near certain trailheads. Trail users who are not camping should avoid parking in the campgrounds during the summer season (Memorial Day through Labor Day).

View of the northern Hills from the top of Crow Peak.

9 Crow Peak Trail

A day hike winding upward through pine forests to fantastic panoramas at the summit.

Start: At the trailhead parking lot on Higgins Gulch Road (Forest Road 214), southwest of Spearfish.

Elevation gain: 4,241 to 5,760 feet.

Distance: 6.6 miles out and back.

Difficulty: Strenuous due to continuous incline.

Hiking time: 3 to 4 hours.

Seasons: Late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Northern Hills Ranger District, 2014 North Main, Spearfish, SD 57783; (605) 642-4622; www.fs.usda.gov/bhnf.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Forested, rocky trail.

Land status: Black Hills National Forest.

Nearest town: Spearfish, SD.

Other trail users: Horseback riders, mountain bikers.

Maps: Black Hills National Forest Map; BHNF Crow Peak Trail Map No. 64; National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Map No. 751.

Finding the trailhead: The trailhead is about 6 miles southwest of Spearfish off Interstate 90 via exit 8. From exit 8, proceed south on McGuigan Road for about 1 mile to Hillsview Road. Turn right onto Hillsview Road and after 1 mile, turn left on Higgins Gulch Road (Forest Road 214) and follow it for 3.9 miles to the trailhead and a large parking area, on the right. GPS: N44 28.020' / W103 56.874'

The Hike

Crow Peak Trail is a popular hike. The trail winds up to the mountaintop, providing sweeping vistas at the summit. Crow Peak is so named because of a battle once fought here between the Crow and Sioux Indians. Appropriately, the mountain in the Lakota language, Paha Karitukateyapi, translates to “the place where the Sioux killed the Crow.”

Crow Peak is a laccolithic igneous intrusion and was formed in the same manner as Bear Butte and several other peaks in the area. Between 61 and 39 million years ago, molten magma broke through the limestone and sedimentary layers, which then cooled to form the hard igneous rock. Erosion and washing away of sedimentary deposits continue to re-form the hills in the area.

The trail begins in Higgins Gulch amid ponderosa pine woods and much new growth of native bushes and bur oak. The 3.3 miles up the peak are moderate in some places, strenuous in others. The route heads west on the southern side of the mountain and climbs ever upward. The trail is well traveled with blazes on trees with one large rectangle directly below a smaller rectangle.

At about 1.9 miles you will encounter a junction. Here you might want to take the 1-mile round-trip Beaver Ridge Spur Trail to the southwest for more views in a peaceful atmosphere. If not, continue in a northerly direction toward the summit.

As the trail nears the top, the forest thins and the path becomes rockier. Simultaneously the trail offers the promise of spectacular views ahead—and at the peak lives up to its promise.

Our hike occurred on a mid-September day when several inches of early snow covered the peak. Where valleys retained pockets of cold, snow had lingered. At the summit the contrast between the valley and the peak was dramatic. Below, fall had barely tinged the trees, but several thousand feet higher, fall and winter were already colliding. The view from the top is almost surreal.

Lookout, Spearfish, and Terry Peaks as well as Bear Butte and other high points appear in the east. The plains of eastern Montana and the Bearlodge Mountains of Wyoming lie to the west, with Warren Peak sometimes visible. Spread below is the town of Spearfish, nestled in all this beauty. The Black Hills National Forest Trail No. 64 brochure provides a sketch map of all the major mountain peaks you can see from the top of Crow Peak. This brochure can be obtained from the Black Hills National Forest district office in Spearfish.

Crow Peak Trail is designated for hikers, mountain bikers, and horseback riders only. Because the trail is steep, hikers might become dehydrated. Carry an ample supply of drinking water.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the trailhead from the parking lot on Higgins Gulch Road.

1.9 The Spur Trail to Beaver Ridge comes in from the west (left). (Option: This out-and-back trail will add 1 mile to the hike if you elect to take it.)

3.3 You have reached the summit; backtrack from Crow Peak.

6.6 Return to the trailhead.

10 Old Baldy Trail

A mountain loop hike with a spur trail to the summit of Old Baldy, offering sweeping views of the northern Black Hills.

Start: At the trailhead on Tinton Road (Forest Road 134), about 15 miles south of Spearfish.

Elevation gain: 5,787 to 6,129 feet.

Distance: 7.8-mile loop including spur trail to the top of Old Baldy.

Difficulty: Moderate.

Hiking time: Plan on nearly a full day.

Seasons: Late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Northern Hills Ranger District, 2014 North Main, Spearfish, SD 57783; (605) 642-4622; www.fs.usda.gov/bhnf.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Forested trail.

Land status: Black Hills National Forest.

Nearest town: Spearfish, SD.

Other trail users: Horseback riders, mountain bikers.

Maps: Black Hills National Forest Map; BHNF Old Baldy Trail Map No. 66; National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Map No. 751.

Finding the trailhead: From Spearfish, take FR 134 (Tinton Road) south for 15 miles to the trailhead, on the right. Or take the Spearfish Canyon National Scenic Byway (US Highway 14A) south from Spearfish for 13 miles to Savoy. At Savoy take Forest Road 222 southwest for 6 miles. Turn right on FR 134 and follow it for about a mile to the trailhead on the left. GPS: N44 20.541' / W104 00.260'

The Hike

The Old Baldy Trail is a combination loop and spur trail that meanders through prime deer and elk habitat. The trail is marked by tree blazes and other waymarking posts; keep an eye out for them. The trail could make for an ideal family outing, particularly for those interested in the possibility of observing wildlife. From Old Baldy Mountain, the vistas are satisfying, offering views to the east of Ragged Top and Terry Peak, the Limestone Plateau to the southeast, and to the west you can see Cement Ridge Lookout. Crow Peak looms to the north, a mountain with a geological background (igneous intrusion) similar to that of Old Baldy. In addition, if you look closely to the east on clear days, you can see the fire tower on top of Custer Peak jutting from the horizon. Note: This trail was greatly affected by severe weather events in 2020, and many downed trees remain in the area.

The Old Baldy Trail, if followed along the western route in a clockwise direction, begins in a beautiful grove of aspens that includes much parklike terrain. The combination, with its understory of buckthorn (Ceanothus), provides ideal winter habitat for elk, whose tracks and droppings are often abundant. For backpackers, numerous campsites exist because the terrain is relatively flat.

About 2.3 miles from the trailhead, the first stream crossing is reached with a footbridge. The trail intersects with the Old Baldy Spur 1.3 miles later and then ascends 0.7 mile to the summit. The ascent is gentle and the climb can be completed quickly. Though Old Baldy Mountain is little more than a knob, the views are sweeping and encompass much of the northern Black Hills as well as the peaks mentioned previously. Botanically, the vegetation consists of ponderosa pine overlying an understory of mountain balm and some Oregon grape.

Retracing the 0.7-mile spur to the intersection, take the left trail to continue clockwise for the return trip to the trailhead, about 2.8 miles. From the intersection, within 0.3 mile, the trail crosses a second bridge and passes a small “lake” called Baldy Lake, created by a man-made dike. The resulting pond serves as a water hole for cattle, but judging from the abundant deer tracks, it also serves wildlife. The country here consists of open parklike areas and again provides ideal habitat for ungulates.

Shortly after passing Baldy Lake, the trail veers south and ascends via a series of switchbacks to a small knob, which is actually higher in elevation than Old Baldy but does not provide views of the surrounding area due to tree cover. The route concludes at the trailhead, completing the 7.8-mile loop and spur trail.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the trailhead parking lot on Tinton Road, hiking clockwise.

2.3 First stream crossing with bridge.

3.6 Reach the spur trail to the summit.

4.3 Old Baldy summit.

5.0 Back at the Old Baldy Spur junction. Take the left leg toward the east.

5.3 Second stream crossing with bridge and pass Old Baldy Lake.

7.8 Return to the trailhead.

11 Little Spearfish Trail

A three-to-five-hour loop hike that rambles through ponderosa pine forest and ends near a great walk-in fishing area.

Start: From the trailhead parking lot near the Timon Campground off Forest Road 222; about 18 miles south of Spearfish.

Elevation gain: 5,466 to 6,280 feet.

Distance: 6.6-mile loop.

Difficulty: Moderate.

Hiking time: 3 to 5 hours.

Seasons: Late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Northern Hills Ranger District, 2014 North Main, Spearfish, SD 57783; (605) 642-4622; www.fs.usda.gov/bhnf.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Forested trail.

Land status: Black Hills National Forest.

Nearest town: Spearfish, SD.

Other trail users: Horseback riders, mountain bikers.

Maps: Black Hills National Forest Map; BHNF Little Spearfish and Rimrock Trails Map No. 80 & 79; National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Map No. 751.

Finding the trailhead: Take US Highway 14A (Spearfish Canyon National Scenic Byway) south from Spearfish for 13 miles to Savoy, or take US 14A north from Cheyenne Crossing (the southern terminus of the scenic byway) for 5.4 miles to Savoy. Then follow FR 222 southwest about 5 miles to the west side of Timon Campground, where the main trailhead is located. GPS: N44 19.704' / W103 59.369'. The trail also can be accessed from several points along FR 222 (signs are posted along the way).

The Hike

Beginning at Little Spearfish Trailhead adjacent to Timon Campground, the trail proceeds east in the woods, paralleling FR 222 for about 0.8 mile. Cross the road twice, and at the second crossing pick up the trail again about 10 yards to the right. (This first section of the trail may be impassible during times of high water in Little Spear-fish Creek. If this happens, hike along FS 222 at the start of the hike until the point where the trail heads south away from the creek.)

Soon the trail heads south, still in the woods, into a moderately steep ascent that becomes a gentle climb until you reach the highest elevation of 6,280 feet. Since the last publication of this guidebook, this area of Little Spearfish Canyon has endured harsh weather with many severe storms. On June 28, 2018, a tornado touched down in eastern Wyoming and continued on into western South Dakota. The tornado passed through this area with estimated wind speeds of over 100 mph. You will see many fallen trees and other evidence of storm damage. Severe weather events occurred in the summer of 2020 as well, creating more storm damage to the area. However, Black Hills National Forest crews have worked hard to keep these trails open.

Little Spearfish Creek meanders through the canyon.

Sometimes the trail blazes on trees are difficult to see, since they are cut into the tree bark. Make sure to look for these markings as well as other brown wayfinding posts along the way. After about 3 miles of hiking, the trail reaches its highest elevation and then begins a continuous descent through elk and deer habitat.

The final mile, which is flat, wanders through meadows along Little Spearfish Creek and the walk-in fishing area. American dippers inhabit this area and uniquely feed underwater. These songbirds, found along mountain streams, make a dipping motion when feeding and are capable of swimming and diving into the water to feed on the larvae of aquatic insects. Those who like to fish will want to pack in a pole (and South Dakota license).

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the trailhead near Timon Campground, and hike east, paralleling FR 222.

0.8 Cross FR 222 for a second time.

1.2 Continue on the Little Spearfish Trail; do not cross road for a third time. Follow signs and begin ascent.

5.7 Cross a small bridge and begin to parallel Little Spearfish Creek.

6.6 Return to the trailhead.

12 Rimrock Trail

Two loops or a combined circuit hike through large stands of ponderosa, aspen, and birch, with views of Pahasapa Limestone cliffs.

See map on page 48.

Start: At Timon Campground for the Upper Loop, and for easiest access to the Lower Loop, at the Rod and Gun Campground on Forest Road 222.

Elevation gains: Upper Loop: 5,388 to 6,049 feet. Lower Loop: 5,331 to 5,941 feet.

Distance: Upper Loop, 4.7 miles; Lower Loop, 3.2 miles. Eliminate the common middle section and hike the outer segments of both loops for a total of 6.3 miles.

Difficulty: Moderate.

Hiking time: One-half day to a full day, depending on your choice of routes.

Seasons: Best from late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Northern Hills Ranger District, 2014 North Main, Spearfish, SD 57783; (605) 642-4622; www.fs.usda.gov/bhnf.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Forested trail.

Land status: Black Hills National Forest.

Nearest town: Spearfish, SD.

Other trail users: Horseback riders, mountain bikers.

Maps: Black Hills National Forest Map; BHNF Little Spearfish and Rimrock Trails Map No. 80 & 79; National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Map No. 751.

Finding the trailhead: Take US Highway 14A (Spearfish Canyon National Scenic Byway) south from Spearfish for 13 miles to Savoy, or take US 14A north from Cheyenne Crossing (the southern terminus of the scenic byway) for 5.4 miles to Savoy. Then follow FR 222 south about 5 miles to the west side of Timon Campground, where the main trailhead is located. GPS: N44 19.704' / W103 59.369'

The trail also can be accessed from several points along FR 222 (signs are posted along the way). Rod and Gun Campground is 3 miles southwest from Savoy on FR 222, offering access to both loops of the Rimrock Trail. GPS: N44 20.302' / W103 57.783'

The Hike

To hike the Upper Loop, depart from the Little Spearfish Trailhead (from the north side of the parking lot and adjacent to Timon Campground) and make an initial climb to the north for about 100 yards. The ascent is quite steep and strenuous at first, then levels off to a gradual climb as the trail angles through the woods. You will see evidence of past severe weather events, with many downed trees in the area.

After 0.9 mile the ascent ends and the junction for a connector trail leading west to Old Baldy is encountered. Here the Rimrock Trail levels out, heading north and east.

More trail junctions occur in another 0.8 mile. To complete the Upper Loop, take the right fork, following the sign for the Rod and Gun Campground, reached in about 1 mile. Once near the campground, turn right again. At this point, about 2 miles remain to the trailhead, all of it level hiking that parallels Little Spearfish Creek, as well as FR 222. Along the route you will see part of an old ranger station foundation and an old stone root cellar. Also near this area an informational sign explains that this was the location of a tree used as America’s Holiday Tree in 1997. The tree was transported over 2,000 miles to the US Capitol in Washington, DC, and a lighting ceremony was held on December 10.

Continuing now to the west, the trail crosses the road three times before concluding back at Timon Campground. The end portion of the trail may be inaccessible during times of high water. If this happens, hiking along FR 222 will bring you back to the trailhead parking lot near the Timon Campground.

The Lower Loop is the shorter of the two loop trails. To take this route, begin your hike at the Rod and Gun Campground. The trail begins at the west end of the campground (take an almost immediate right on the trail; do not follow the creek), passes through a cattle gate, then ascends immediately for about 0.8 mile to the rim of the canyon, in a westerly direction. As you turn right (east), it then levels out through ponderosa pine, quaking aspen, and stands of birch. Deer tracks abound, and flickers dart among the tree branches. The variation and abundance of plant life in this area is amazing and includes juniper, sage, varied wildflowers, buck brush, and kinnikin-nick, a favorite grouse dish. The remainder of the trail provides a gradual descent into the depths of Little Spearfish Canyon, where the rock walls and formations show the forces of nature. A brief hike through tall grasses paralleling the creek returns hikers to the trailhead.

The combined loops of the Rimrock Trail are designed for hikers, horseback riders, and mountain bikers.

Miles and Directions

Upper Loop

0.0 Start at Little Spearfish Trailhead at Timon Campground, hiking clockwise to the northwest.

0.9 The Old Baldy Trail comes in from the west; remain on the loop trail, which goes right (east).

1.7 Turn right (southeast) toward the Rod and Gun Campground.

2.5 Turn right at the junction near the Rod and Gun Campground, heading south/southwest.

4.7 Return to the trailhead.

Lower Loop

0.0 Start at the trailhead on the western side of the Rod and Gun Campground, hiking clockwise.

0.9 Trail intersection at a T. Go right (east). This section of the trail will be marked with gray diamonds indicating #79 (Rimrock Trail) and #55 (Tinton Trail).

2.2 The Tinton Trail splits off to the left, keep right on the Rimrock Trail in a southeasterly direction.

3.2 The trail returns to the eastern side of the Rod and Gun Campground.

13 Big Hill Trails

A connecting series of trails at the summit of Big Hill, taking hikers through beautiful stands of quaking aspen, paper birch, and ponderosa pine and past sporadic views of the surrounding area.

Start: From Tinton Road (Forest Road 134) to Big Hill, about 8 miles south of Spearfish.

Elevation gain: 5,000 to 5,480 feet.

Distance: Loops of various lengths, covering a total of 13.6 miles.

Difficulty: Easy to strenuous.

Hiking time: 30 minutes to a full day. Seasons: All.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Northern Hills Ranger District, 2014 North Main, Spearfish, SD 57783; (605) 642-4622; www.fs.usda.gov/bhnf.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Forested trail, dirt road.

Land status: Black Hills National Forest.

Nearest town: Spearfish, SD.

Other trail users: Mountain bikers, horseback riders, snowshoers, and cross-country skiers.

Maps: Black Hills National Forest Map; BHNF Big Hill Trails Map No. 72; National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Map No. 751.

Finding the trailhead: From Spearfish take FR 134 (Tinton Road) for about 8 miles to the top of Big Hill and the small parking lot on the right, which has a sign for Big Hill Trails. The trails are directly across the road. GPS: N44 25.002' / W103 56.723'

The Hike

Fall is a perfect time to hike the many trails of this area as the golden leaves of aspen and birch trees shimmer against the dark green ponderosa pines. Early in the morning, families of deer browse and coyotes howl across the ridgetops. This is prime elk habitat, too.

This is rolling country, with the trails following the gentle slopes. All trails wander through the mixed stands of trees in the woods. Atop Big Hill, solitude abounds and offers hikers a chance to enjoy the peace and a variety of views. According to the Forest Service handout, Big Hill was so named long ago by miners heading south from Spearfish to the goldfields. With all the wagons and teams, it was a real grind to make it over the big hill.

We sampled the area’s trails by combining Loops A and B into one hike. To access the loops, walk southeast a short distance to where Loop A begins; taking the left fork brings you to Loop C, which runs to the rim of Spearfish Canyon, 1,000 feet deep. The right fork takes hikers to Loop B or C. Loop D is reached from the southern part of Loop C. Loop A is the shortest route at 2.8 miles, and Loop D is the longest at 7.5 miles. Note: The trail mileages listed in the map key and official Black Hill National

Forest Big Hill Trails No. 72 brochure are all representative of the distances with the trailhead as the starting and ending point.

Big Hill Trails are designed for hikers, mountain bikers, horseback riders, snow-shoers, and cross-country skiers, and the area is designated “multiple use.” The trails and loops are well marked with signposts and tree blazes. In winter, if conditions permit, some of the trails are groomed (in collaboration with a local group known as the Black Hills Nordic Ski Club). In summer, make sure to watch out for free range cattle.

14 Eagle Cliff Trails

An extensive series of more than twenty loop and one-way trails totaling 27.1 miles, originally designed for cross-country skiers but also used by hikers, mountain bikers, snowshoers, and horseback riders.

Start: From one of two trailheads off US Highway 85, about 15 miles from the city of Lead.

Elevation gain: 5,760 to 6,520 feet.

Distance: Various trails, ranging from 0.2 mile to 3.7 miles, in many combinations.

Difficulty: Easy to strenuous.

Hiking time: 1 hour to a full day.

Seasons: All.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Northern Hills Ranger District, 2014 North Main, Spearfish, SD 57783; (605) 642–4622; www.fs.usda.gov/bhnf. Eagle Cliff Ski Association, https://eagleclifftrails.com/

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Forested trail, dirt road.

Land status: Black Hills National Forest.

Nearest town: Lead, SD.

Other trail users: Cross-country skiers, snow-shoers, mountain bikers, horseback riders.

Maps: Black Hills National Forest Map; BHNF Eagle Cliff Trails Map No. 68; National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Map No. 751.

Finding the trailheads: From Lead take US Highways 85/14A south for about 8 miles to Cheyenne Crossing. Then take US 85 south for 7.4 miles to the first trailhead (A) GPS: N44 13.856' / W103 56.212', or 8.2 miles to the second trailhead (B) GPS: N44 13.755' / W103 57.122'. Both trailheads are on the north side of the highway.

The Hike

This rugged, high, somewhat remote series of loop trails offers short trips of an hour or the opportunity to hike for several days. With almost 30 miles of trails, many loop combinations are possible, and ambitious hikers may want to try one long perimeter hike. Unique trail names such as What the Hell, Wipe Out, and Deep Snow reflect the fact that local cross-country skiers began this system in the 1980s. During the winter season, you may access the trails from three additional trailheads; see BHNF brochure for more information or visit https://eagleclifftrails.com.

Custer State Park

In 1919, through the mighty efforts of South Dakota governor Peter Norbeck and others, land that once had been a state game preserve officially became Custer State Park. Today the park contains 71,000 acres consisting of grasslands, ponderosa pine forests, bur oak, and white spruce. As a wildlife preserve, the park has one of the world’s largest bison herds and is home to elk, deer, bighorn sheep, and even mountain goats. Custer State Park is also one of the largest state parks in our nation. Appropriately, the park serves as an excellent area for recreation, offering trout fishing in its many streams and lakes.

In an article written for the South Dakota School of Mines and Technology in 1926, C. C. O’Harra and J. P. Connolly explained:

The value of Custer State Park as a recreation center is based primarily on its geology. The geology controls in large measure the intricate topography, and the topography in turn is influential in regulating the details of climate and distribution of plant and animal life, and it gives character everywhere to the scenic beauty so pronounced throughout the area.

This is still true today. From the southeastern corner near the buffalo corrals to the Cathedral Spires in the northwestern corner, you can explore the almost full succession of Black Hills geology dating from 2.2 billion to 30 million years ago.

The park offers abundant camping spots and trails for hikers, which encompass the area’s grasslands and forest areas. Trails in Custer State Park wind through prairies, mountains, and incredible rock formations. They offer plentiful views of wildlife, lakes, and streams. The trails are varied enough to let you hear the sounds of the forest, to see the abundant wildlife, and to allow winds to shape your thoughts.

When hiking in Custer State Park, always be aware of the possibility of bison encounters. Never approach these huge, shaggy monarchs. A cow with her calf in the spring represents a threat, as do animals of both sexes in the mating season in July, August, and September. Also be on the lookout for rattlesnakes, and check yourself for ticks after hiking through long grass. Watch out for poison ivy near creeks.

Though summer and fall are ideal times to hike here, we recommend fall as the best season. The days are cool, and the aspen, birch, and bur oak assume colors that reflect the presence of plant pigments beyond the usual green chlorophyll.

Custer State Park is located in the southeast portion of the Black Hills, directly north of Wind Cave National Park and about a 30-minute drive south from Rapid City, South Dakota. From Interstate 90 at Rapid City, take exit 61 and follow SD Highway 79 south for about 20 miles. About 1 mile south of the town of Hermosa, follow SD Highway 36 west for 9 miles to US Highway 16A west, which will take you to the park’s east entrance.

Unique rock formations are abundant in Custer State Park.

For an alternative scenic route, drive through the center of the Black Hills. To do so, proceed east from Spearfish on I–90, taking US Highway 85 south to US Highway 385 south. Take US 16A east at the town of Custer into Custer State Park. If you are heading west, take I–90 west to Sturgis, then take US Highway 14A west toward Deadwood. Take US 385 south, following the above suggestions from Spearfish. State highway maps show the numerous cutoffs to these routes, and signs pointing the way to Custer State Park can be found throughout the Black Hills.

Two visitor centers exist in the park. The Custer State Park Visitor Center is located on the park’s main road (US 16A) about 2 miles west of the junction of SD 36 and US 16A; it is open year-round. The Wildlife Station Visitor Center is located on the eastern portion of the Wildlife Loop Road and is open from the end of May through September.

To become acquainted with the park and its multitudinous offerings, we found it helpful as well as rewarding to drive all three of the scenic roads provided to visitors. The vistas are incredible, and for those planning to hike, the drives furnish a good overview of trail locations (see overview map for road locations). The drives take longer than the mileages indicate because the roads are slow and winding. The Needles Highway is 14 miles long and curves its way around magnificent granite formations. The Iron Mountain Road is 17 miles in length, with pigtail bridges and tunnels carved through the granite rock. This road leads from the park to Mount Rushmore. Please be aware that Needles Highway closes and Iron Mountain Road often closes during the harsh winter season. Also, these two roads both include tunnels, and it is important to know the height and width of your vehicle. The 18-mile Wildlife Loop Road shows another side of the park—its rolling prairie grasslands and their magnifi-cent display of wildlife.

A South Dakota State Park Pass is required to visit Custer State Park. For the most current fees, inquire at the visitor center or park entrance stations.

Note: At the time of publication, Custer State Park was in the process of developing a master plan for the Sylvan Lake area. This is an effort to reduce congestion, mitigate parking issues, and sustain the area’s natural resources. Traffic patterns, parking lots, and trailhead locations may change because of this plan; check with park staff at entrance stations or the visitor center for the most current information. Also, plans to build a new bison education center in the park were announced in the fall of 2020.

15 The Creekside Trail

A beautiful stroll on a hard-surface path that parallels Grace Coolidge Creek. This path is available to walkers, mountain bikers, and those with in-line skates; it is also wheelchair accessible.

Start: From any location along the path, which runs from the Custer State Park Visitor Center to Grace Coolidge Campground.

Elevation gain: 4,150 to 4,364 feet.

Distance: Up to 4.8 miles out and back.

Difficulty: Easy.

Hiking time: Up to 3 hours.

Land status: Custer State Park.

Seasons: Best spring through fall.

Fees and permits: Park entrance fee.

Trail contact: Custer State Park, 13329 US Highway 16A, Custer, SD 57730; (605) 255-4515; https://gfp.sd.gov/parks/detail/custer-state-park/.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Paved path.

Land status: Custer State Park.

Nearest town: Custer, SD.

Other trail users: Mountain bikers, horseback riders.

Maps: Custer State Park Trail Guide.

Finding the trailhead: Begin at the Custer State Park Visitor Center (GPS: N43 45.680' / W103 22.190') or at Grace Coolidge Campground (GPS: N43 46.593' / W103 24.062'). The trail runs between these two locations and parallel to US 16A.

The Hike

This easy trail follows Grace Coolidge Creek and passes by the historic Game Lodge, the Peter Norbeck Outdoor Education Center, Coolidge General Store, and the Park Office. You may access the trail at any of these locations. The trail’s grade is almost entirely downhill if hiked from west to east.

16 French Creek Natural Area

An overnight backpack or a long day hike into a pristine natural area along a gorge of unique rock formations, with numerous creek fordings. Of course, you always have the option of hiking in from either end and backtracking when you get tired.

See map on page 60.

Start: From either the west end of the French Creek Trail on Custer State Park Road 4 or the east end on the Wildlife Loop Road.

Elevation gain: 3,714 to 4,640 feet.

Difficulty: Strenuous.

Distance: 12 miles one way.

Hiking time: An overnight trip or a full-day trip to complete the 12 miles.

Seasons: Summer through fall.

Fees and permits: Park entrance fee; campers must self-register at either trailhead.

Trail contact: Custer State Park, 13329 US Highway 16A, Custer, SD 57730; (605) 255-4515; https://gfp.sd.gov/parks/detail/custer-state-park/.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Unmarked natural area; no marked trails.

Land status: Custer State Park.

Nearest town: Custer, SD.

Other trail users: Horseback riders.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 238; Custer State Park Trail Guide.

Finding the trailhead: To access the east trailhead, head south from the Custer State Park Visitor Center on the Wildlife Loop Road for about 4 miles to the trailhead sign on the right. GPS: N43 42.776' / W103 20.829'

To reach the west trailhead, continue south on the Wildlife Loop Road to Blue Bell Lodge on SD Highway 87, a total of 15 miles from the east trailhead. From here, take Custer State Park Road 4 (Lame Johnny Road, gravel) east for 2.5 miles to the trailhead. GPS: N43 42.969' / W103 27.079'

The Hike

French Creek originates northwest of the town of Custer. It feeds Stockade Lake and continues its eastward flow, passing through Custer State Park and into the 2,200-acre French Creek Natural Area. The creek cuts into the land in a dramatic manner.

Over its next 12 miles, the creek exposes some of the Black Hills’ most spectacular granitic and sedimentary layers in the form of narrow defiles and cozy, colorful canyons. Surrounding walls rise boldly and radiate colors of red, orange, and yellow.

For the angler/hiker the French Creek area offers some of the state’s best fishing. Brown and rainbow trout in the canyon’s deep holes and numerous riffles respond well to dry flies and spinners. For the nature hiker the canyons offer abundant wildlife sightings in the form of turtles, turkey, deer, elk, bison, and bands of bighorn sheep. In fall, bull elk lift their heads and bugle, and the canyon’s walls ring with the sonorous cry of wandering males attempting to proclaim their territories.

Here, too, is a geological phenomenon. Near the eastern end of the natural area, waters in French Creek disappear in dry times over a several-hundred-yard span of stream. Geologists call this phenomenon karst topography, saying that in the distant millennia, subsurface pockets were formed where soft sedimentary rock dissolved, a process referred to as stream loss zone. The void was filled, in this case, by French Creek, particularly noticeable in the drier season.

French Creek Natural Area offers camping sites anywhere along the trail, but open fires are not allowed. From either trailhead, the path is a well-traveled one, but sometimes you must create your own trails or follow those left by others. In one section of the French Creek hike, about 5 miles in from the eastern trailhead, hikers are challenged by sheer rock walls in a place called the Narrows. Since there is no place to walk, a swim or a very steep ascent around it is in order.

Paths generally parallel the creek until they approach the trail’s western terminus some 10 miles later. Hikers in French Creek are cautioned about the hazards of the area: Maintain a watchful eye for bison and rattlesnakes, be aware of the abundance of poison ivy, and know in advance that you will have up to thirty-four creek crossings and will get wet. Hiking is not recommended when creek waters are very high.

17 Grace Coolidge Walk-in Fishing Area

A beautiful, fairly flat walk terminating or beginning at Grace Coolidge Campground or Center Lake, paralleling (with many crossings) Grace Coolidge Creek. Good fishing abounds here.

See map on page 60.

Start: From either across the road from the Grace Coolidge Campground or at Center Lake.

Elevation gain: 4,368 to 4,751 feet.

Distance: 5.4 miles out and back.

Difficulty: Easy.

Hiking time: 2 to 4 hours.

Seasons: Best from late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: Park entrance fee. A fishing license is required if you plan to fish.

Trail contact: Custer State Park, 13329 US Highway 16A, Custer, SD 57730; (605) 255-4515; https://gfp.sd.gov/parks/detail/custer-state-park/.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Dirt road.

Land status: Custer State Park.

Nearest town: Custer, SD.

Other trail users: Mountain bikers, horseback riders.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 238; Custer State Park Trail Guide.

Finding the trailhead: To find the southern trailhead, take US 16A west from the Custer State Park Visitor Center for 2.5 miles. The trailhead is on the right, across the road from the Grace Coolidge Campground. GPS: N43 46.721' / W103 24.173'

To access the northern trailhead, take US 16A west for 6 miles from the visitor center to South Dakota Highway 87 north. Proceed north on SD 87 for 3 miles to the turnoff for Center Lake and the Black Hills Playhouse, then go 1 mile to Center Lake. The trailhead is located by the shower house near the lake. GPS: N43 48.180' / W103 25.182'

The Hike

The Grace Coolidge Walk-in Fishing Area trail is actually an old, overgrown logging road. It is an easy and refreshing hike, and the numerous crossings over the narrow, sometimes deep, creek add to the fun. Six low-head dams, built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s, exist along the way, some with deep, dark pools lying beneath granite rock formations. Walking this trail is a fun outing for the entire family. In 1927 President Calvin Coolidge and his wife Grace maintained a summer White House nearby; as a result, many features in the area bear the Coolidge name.

In summer the trail is alive with the vibrant colors of wildflowers; in fall the bur oak and birch tree leaves add a startling gold that contrasts with the green-black of the ponderosa pine. As in many low, wet areas, poison ivy is abundant along the trail and by the creek.

Photo opportunities abound here, as do chances for excellent fishing. The pools are stocked with brook, brown, cutthroat, and rainbow trout, so hiking anglers should be sure to pack in fishing gear along with their South Dakota license.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the trailhead across the road from the Grace Coolidge Campground (southern trailhead).

2.7 Arrive at the northern trailhead at Center Lake.

5.4 Turn around and retrace your steps to the southern trailhead.

18 Lovers’ Leap Trail

A two-to-three-hour loop trail passing through a ponderosa pine and oak forest, offering great views at the summit.

See map on page 60.

Start: From the trailhead behind the schoolhouse and near the outdoor wedding pavilion across from the Peter Norbeck Outdoor Education Center on US Highway 16A.

Elevation gain: 4,221 to 4,780 feet.

Distance: 4.2-mile lollipop.

Difficulty: Strenuous to moderate.

Hiking time: 2 to 3 hours.

Seasons: Best late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: Park entrance fee.

Trail contact: Custer State Park, 13329 US Highway 16A, Custer, SD 57730; (605) 255-4515; https://gfp.sd.gov/parks/detail/ custer-state-park/.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Forested trail.

Land status: Custer State Park.

Nearest town: Custer, SD.

Other trail users: Mountain bikers, horseback riders.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 238; Custer State Park Trail Guide.

Finding the trailhead: The trail begins behind the schoolhouse across from the Peter Norbeck Outdoor Education Center on US 16A, less than 1 mile west of the Custer State Park Visitor Center. GPS: N43 45.840' / W103 22.979'

The Hike

With lots of potential for a fun family outing, this popular hike combines gentle ups and downs after an initial steep ascent to a ridge; numerous stream crossings exist, though none is too difficult. Hikers should remain alert for poison ivy, which is abundant near the streams.

According to legend, Lovers’ Leap derives its name from a Native American couple who elected to end their lives by plummeting from the lofty outcropping of rocks on a 200-foot ridge. Just why the couple leaped to their deaths is not remembered.

The overlook is reached by following the broad trail from the schoolhouse where it immediately begins a thirty-to forty-five-minute, relatively steep climb through bur oak and ponderosa pine forest. The loop is reached after just 0.2 mile; keep left to continue ascent. Prairie grasses mat the hillsides as you climb to the top. As you approach the summit, interesting rock formations of quartzite and granite as well as lichen-covered boulders are scattered on both sides of the trail.

Near the trail’s highest point, a sign greets you and provides the following message: “Custer State Park is a place where one can still be an unworried and unregimented individual and wear any old clothes and sit on a log and get their sanity back again.” Beyond the trail and sign, hikers can climb the short distance through the boulders and reach the deadly “lovers’ leap” point.

Inspirational quote near the summit of Lovers’ Leap.

The view from the summit (elevation 4,780 feet) is spectacular. Be careful and watch your footing. Across the valley and in the near distance are the charred remains of the Legion Lake Fire of 2017 and the Galena Fire of 1988. Looking beyond, on clear days, you are treated to views of Black Elk Peak, Mount Coolidge, and the Cathedral Spires.

Leaving Lovers’ Leap, the trail descends the west side of the ridge to Galena Creek. Just before the first stream crossing, the Galena Horse Trail veers off to the left; make sure to keep right. The trail then meanders along the narrow creek bed and makes twelve stream crossings via recently constructed wooden planks. Poison ivy abounds along the creek bed and the trail, so wear long pants and watch where you place your feet. Much of the trail is flanked with less irritating, lovelier wildflowers such as sedum, highbush cranberry, Bicknell’s geranium, mountain meadowsweet, bluebell, salsify, and many prairie grasses.

After the last stream crossing, the trail slightly ascends the ridge again and passes behind the park’s employee housing and the Coolidge General Store. Another trail split is reached at mile 3.4; keep right to continue on the main trail. About a half-mile later, the stem is reached, which will return you to the trailhead.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the trailhead behind the schoolhouse across from the Peter Norbeck Outdoor Education Center.

0.2 Join the loop here, hiking clockwise.

1.25 Sign with quote is reached, climb to the rocky overlook on your right.

2.0 Begin a series of stream crossings.

3.4 Trail split, keep right (east).

4.0 The trail returns to the stem, follow back to trailhead parking lot.

4.2 Return to the trailhead.

19 Legion Lake Campground Trail

A pleasant loop hike that climbs a hill on the north side of Legion Lake and offers views of the surrounding area.

See map on page 60.

Start: From the trailhead in Legion Lake Campground, about 7 miles west of the Custer State Park Visitor Center.

Elevation gain: 5,063 to 5,418 feet.

Distance: 1.1-mile loop.

Difficulty: Strenuous due to a steep, rocky ascent and descent.

Hiking time: 1 to 2 hours.

Seasons: Late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: Park entrance fee.

Trail contact: Custer State Park, 13329 US Highway 16A, Custer, SD 57730; (605) 255-4515; https://gfp.sd.gov/parks/detail/custer-state-park/.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Rocky dirt path.

Land status: Custer State Park.

Nearest town: Custer, SD.

Other trail users: Horseback riders, mountain bikers.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 238.

Finding the trailhead: From the Custer State Park Visitor Center, take US Highway 16A west for about 7 miles to Legion Lake Lodge, on the north side of the lake. Park in one of the paved parking lots near the lodge. Hikers then must use the crosswalk to cross US Highway 16A and walk all the way through Legion Lake Campground to find the trailhead. The trail begins near campsite 11 in the back of the campground. GPS: N43 45.844' / W103 28.016'

The Hike

The Legion Lake Campground Trail is well marked and climbs counterclockwise through a ponderosa-pine forest. Remember to watch your footing, as this trail is very rocky. The highest point is reached after 0.6 mile. From its rocky outcroppings, you can see the lake to the south, the Badlands to the east, Mount Coolidge, and the southern Black Hills. Toward the end of the descent, the Centennial Trail joins from the north and completes the loop back to the campground. Note that there is also a short, scenic trail that loops around the shore of Legion Lake itself.

Various species of mammals and birds use this area, including wandering bison. Please remember that bison can be dangerous.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the trailhead at Legion Lake Campground, hiking counterclockwise.

0.6 Reach the saddle.

0.8 Centennial Trail joins from the north.

1.1 Return to the trailhead.

20 Prairie Trail

An easy interpretive loop hike through prairie grasslands and over open ridges, with superb views.

See map on page 60.

Start: At the well-marked trailhead on the Wild-life Loop Road.

Elevation gain: 4,115 to 4,405 feet.

Distance: 2.1-mile lollipop.

Difficulty: Moderate due to many ascents and descents.

Hiking time: 1 to 2 hours.

Seasons: Best late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: Park entrance fee.

Trail contact: Custer State Park, 13329 US Highway 16A, Custer, SD 57730; (605) 255-4515; https://gfp.sd.gov/parks/detail/custer-state-park/.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Dirt path.

Land status: Custer State Park.

Nearest town: Custer, SD.

Other trail users: Mountain bikers, horseback riders.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 238; Custer State Park Trail Guide.

Finding the trailhead: From the Custer State Park Visitor Center on US Highway 16A, head south on the Wildlife Loop Road and follow it for approximately 13 miles. The well-marked trail-head is on the left, with a small parking area.

From the Blue Bell entrance station on South Dakota Highway 87, take the Wildlife Loop Road southeast for 5 miles to the trailhead on the right. GPS: N43 39.506' / W103 24.846'

The Hike

The Prairie Trail was designed especially for those interested in viewing prairie grasslands and wildflowers. The interpretive signs along the way help ensure more correct interpretation and add to the enjoyment of the hike. The elevation gain is modest, climbing a total of about 400 feet, when accounting for the many ups and downs throughout the trail.

Views offered along this trail are commanding, and on a clear day, you are rewarded with distant views to the east of the Badlands. Even from afar, when the interplay of light and land is appropriate, the area appears majestic. So, too, does the grassland over which you must pass. Views of the prairie suggest an immensity and grandeur found in few other areas of the United States.

The flora is varied, and throughout the summer, pageants of flowers reward hikers. Alert travelers also might see and hear a variety of birds and mammals, such as mountain bluebirds, golden eagles, bison, coyotes, and pronghorns.

The Prairie Trail begins by immediately crossing the narrow South Fork of Lame Johnny Creek, which, following rains, generally means wet feet. The loop is reached after only 0.1 mile of hiking; keep right (counterclockwise) to the first interpretive panel. The trail then ascends along a relatively steep bluff through a stand of bur oak to a high plateau.

After breaking free from the trees, the trail follows this plateau of grasses and flowers, then descends to a fence used for bison management. The gate in the fence is your access to the trail. From here you descend a short distance along the trail to where you must cross Flynn Creek, which offers an excellent example of riparian habitat.

The trail ascends again, passing through stands of bur oak, the only oak indigenous to the Black Hills. As the trail reaches the next plateau, called Hay Flats, the path winds through stands of ponderosa pine on the edge of the flats. The trail follows the plateau, passing numerous bison wallows. Soon the trail encounters another bison fence, again with a gate provided. The fences divide the park into smaller pasture-like divisions so that the bison can be rotated among them, thus not overgrazing any one area. Near the end of the hike, you will follow a small stream through stands of hard-woods; the trail is marked with posts and rock cairns.

At 2.1 miles, the trail concludes where it began by Lame Johnny Creek.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Begin at the trailhead on Wildlife Loop Road. Cross creek.

0.1 Reach the loop; keep right (counterclockwise).

0.5 Reach high plateau.

0.9 Come to gate in fence.

1.0 Cross Flynn Creek.

1.5 Come to second gate in fence.

1.8 Final stream crossing.

2.0 Return to stem; go straight.

2.1 Return to the trailhead and end of the hike.

21 Badger Clark Historic Trail

A short loop trail that winds behind the historic cabin of Charles Badger Clark (1883–1957), first poet laureate of South Dakota.

See map on page 60.

Start: At the trailhead on Badger Clark Road off US Highway 16A.

Elevation gain: 5,017 to 5,154 feet.

Distance: 0.6-mile loop.

Difficulty: Moderate.

Hiking time: 30 minutes to 1 hour.

Seasons: Spring through fall.

Fees and permits: Park entrance fee.

Trail contact: Custer State Park, 13329

US Highway 16A, Custer, SD 57730; (605) 255-4515; https://gfp.sd.gov/parks/detail/custer-state-park/.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Forested trail.

Land status: Custer State Park.

Nearest town: Custer, SD.

Other trail users: Mountain bikers, horseback riders.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 238; Custer State Park Trail Guide.

Finding the trailhead: From the Custer State Park Visitor Center, take US 16A west for 6 miles and turn left on Badger Clark Road. Follow this road for 1 mile to Badger Hole Drive on the right. Turn right and go 0.2 mile to the trailhead parking lot. The trail begins on the north side of the cabin. GPS: N43 45.456' / W103 27.471'

The Hike

There’s a song in the canyon below me

And a song in the pines overhead,

As the sunlight crawls down from the snowline

And rustles the deer from his bed.

With mountains of green all around me

And mountains of white up above

And mountains of blue down the sky-line,

I follow the trail that I love.

—Badger Clark,
in Sun and Saddle Leather

This short, historic interpretive walk is great for the entire family. The trail exists because the area was once the haunt of poet Badger Clark, best known perhaps for his poem “A Cowboy’s Prayer.” Clark lived alone for thirty years in this pristine setting, inspired by nature’s bounty. Several interpretive panels along the trail tell more about Clark’s life and poetry.

Badger Clark’s historic cabin nestled in the woods near Legion Lake.

The trail is marked with blue diamonds and begins with a counterclockwise ascent through pine. At about 0.3 mile the trail reaches its high point, and you can see the charred remains of the Galena Fire of 1988 and the lookout tower atop Mount Coolidge (6,023 feet). Note the large rocks placed along the trail as it ascends to the vista; many of these rocks were placed here by Badger Clark himself. He often traveled this path, which provided inspiration for his work. From the high point, the trail then descends back to the cabin and the parking lot area.

You will also note that one of the Centennial Trail Trailheads in Custer State Park is located near this place known as the “Badger Hole.”

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the trailhead on the north side of the cabin, hiking counterclockwise.

0.3 Reach the highest point on the trail.

0.6 Trail loops back to the cabin.

22 Sunday Gulch Trail

A trail that loops behind Sylvan Lake and offers some of the best overviews of the park’s exquisite diversity. This trail is closed in winter.

Start: From the Sylvan Lake Shore Trail, going behind the dam to the Sunday Gulch Trailhead.

Elevation gain: 5,607 to 6,306 feet.

Distance: 4.0-mile loop.

Difficulty: Strenuous due to steep, slippery ascents and descents.

Hiking time: 2 to 3 hours.

Seasons: Best from early June through fall; closed in winter.

Fees and permits: Park entrance fee.

Trail contact: Custer State Park, 13329

US Highway 16A, Custer, SD 57730; (605) 255-4515; https://gfp.sd.gov/parks/detail/custer-state-park/.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Forested trail, rocks, stream.

Land status: Custer State Park.

Nearest town: Custer, SD.

Other trail users: Mountain bikers.

Maps: Black Hills National Forest Map; National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 238; Custer State Park Trail Guide.

Finding the trailhead: From the Custer State Park Visitor Center, take US Highway 16A west, then take South Dakota Highway 87 north then west to Sylvan Lake, a total distance of about 19 miles. Park in the day-use parking lot. Walk the Sylvan Lake Shore Trail west for 0.4 mile to the trailhead sign on the right.

Or come in at the Sylvan Lake entrance station via US Highways 16/385 south from Hill City to SD 87 south to Sylvan Lake.

From the city of Custer, take South Dakota Highway 89 north for approximately 6 miles to Sylvan Lake. GPS: N43 50.854' / W103 33.978'

The Hike

The Sunday Gulch Trail is considered so extraordinary in its spectrum of plants, trees, mosses, and great scenery that it was designated a National Recreation Trail in 1971. The Sunday Gulch Trailhead is located behind Sylvan Lake. You will need to hike 0.4 mile on the north side of the lake to reach the trailhead. The length of the Sunday Gulch Trail itself is 3.2 miles, but the total hike will be closer to 4 miles when starting and ending at the Sylvan Lake parking lot. As you hike counterclockwise, the trail immediately descends steeply for 0.25 mile, winding over huge rocks as it drops into the depths of Sunday Gulch. The rocks can be slippery; some stone steps and handrails are provided for the first portion of the hike. Exercise caution on this part of the descent, since sometimes the handrails have been loosened over the winter by ice pushing on the railings.

As you begin the descent, huge granite walls tower on each side of the trail, which parallels the creek as it drops into the ravine. Various rock layers and formations exist

Railings line portions of the Sunday Gulch Trail.

here (quartzite, schist, and granite). Tiny waterfalls and rock grottos surrounded by ponderosa pine, Black Hills spruce, paper birch, and aspen provide photo opportunities. Plan on wet feet. Old man’s beard, a gray-green lichen, hangs from the trees, adding to the mystery of the gulch. Many of the rocks are covered with mosses and lichen. Once this gulch was filled with a stream, but in the late 1800s Theodor Reder dammed the mouth of the gulch and created Sylvan Lake.

The trail reaches its lowest point after 1.1 miles of hiking, then begins to ascend. As the trail ascends from the gulch, beautiful panoramas of the Needles formations slide into view. You will encounter power lines, and at times the trail parallels the road; still, the beauty of the area is not diminished. The trail is well marked with blue diamonds on trees.

Miles and Directions

The Sunday Gulch Trail begins behind Sylvan Lake, which requires a 0.4-mile walk to the trailhead from the parking lot.

0.4 Reach the Sunday Gulch Trailhead; hike counterclockwise.

1.1 The trail reaches its lowest point near power lines; here the trail begins its ascent.

1.7 The trail begins to parallel SD Highway 87.

3.2 The trail ends at the junction with the Sylvan Lake Shore Trail; going left will take you back the same way you came; going right will continue the circle around Sylvan Lake.

4.0 The trail returns to the Sylvan Lake parking lot.

23 Sylvan Lake Shore Trail

An easy loop trail around the shore of beautiful Sylvan Lake.

See map on page 76.

Start: At the Sylvan Lake Day-Use area off South Dakota Highway 87.

Elevation gain: 6,112 to 6,216 feet.

Distance: 1-mile loop.

Difficulty: Easy.

Hiking time: About 1 hour.

Seasons: Best from spring through fall.

Fees and permits: Park entrance fee.

Trail contact: Custer State Park, 13329 US Highway 16A, Custer, SD 57730; (605) 255-4515; https://gfp.sd.gov/parks/detail/custer-state-park/.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Dirt path, rock, and boardwalk.

Land status: Custer State Park.

Nearest town: Custer, SD.

Other trail users: Mountain bikers.

Maps: Black Hills National Forest Map; National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 238; Custer State Park Trail Guide.

Finding the trailhead: From the Custer State Park Visitor Center, take US Highway 16A west, then take South Dakota Highway 87 north then west to Sylvan Lake, a total distance of about 19 miles. Park in the day-use parking lot.

From the city of Custer, take South Dakota Highway 89 north for approximately 6 miles to Sylvan Lake. GPS: N43 50.756' / W103 33.641'

The Hike

The Sylvan Lake Shore Trail makes a loop around the lake, offering wonderful views of the gigantic granite rocks in and around the lake. Feel free to walk in either direction. The majority of the trail is relatively flat, but a small portion has steps, a tunnel to walk through, and some rocky areas as it descends to the Sunday Gulch area behind the lake.

Sylvan Lake, one of the most beautiful settings in the Black Hills.

Harney Fire Tower at the summit of Black Elk Peak.

Black Elk Range

To the Lakota, Black Elk Peak is a powerful mountain. Black Elk, a prominent medicine man among the Oglala people, considered Black Elk Peak the center of the world. For him, it was a place for vision quests and spiritual rejuvenation. In addition to the mountain’s spiritual embodiments, Black Elk Peak is a significant mountain because it is the highest point in South Dakota and has long been referred to as the highest peak east of the main chain of the Rocky Mountains.

Black Elk Peak’s features enchant hikers who follow trails to the peak’s 7,242-foot summit. From the historic lookout tower atop the summit, hikers have distant panoramic views of South Dakota, Nebraska, Wyoming, and Montana, as well as close-up vantage points of the granite formations and cliffs of the Black Elk Wilderness.

The mountain originally was named Harney Peak after General William S. Harney, the commanding officer of Lieutenant G. K. Warren, who mapped the peak during a military expedition to the Black Hills in 1857. Valentine McGillycuddy also climbed the peak in the nineteenth century, completing the ascent in 1875 at the age of twenty-six. McGillycuddy mapped the peak and also photographed it. Later he served as an agent on the Pine Ridge Reservation and as the dean of the South Dakota School of Mines. When he died in 1939, his remains were cremated and placed at the base of a fire tower that had been constructed on the peak. A bronze plaque is cemented in the base of the stairway to the tower containing an inscription that reads in part “wasicu wakan.” In Lakota the words mean “holy white man.”

The Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) constructed the stone fire tower in 1938 and 1939. The CCC also constructed stone steps leading to the tower, steps that hikers still ascend today. The tower was used for detecting fires until 1967, when more modern techniques of spotting fires took over. In 1982 the structure was added to the National Register of Historic Places.

The peak’s name officially changed to Black Elk Peak on August 11, 2016, in honor of the medicine man. The Black Elk Range is a part of the central crystalline core of the Black Hills region and consists mostly of Harney Peak Granite, a type of pegmatitic rock that intruded about 1.7 billion years ago. A quick note on geologic/geographic names: Harney Peak Granite is still the geologic name for these granite rock formations even though Harney Peak’s geographic name changed to Black Elk Peak in 2016.

Because of its historical, geological, and spiritual significance, this lofty, craggy granite peak is home to many trails. All are worth following, for each route threads through different terrain.

Two trailheads in the northwest corner of Custer State Park lead to Black Elk Peak: the Sylvan Lake Trailhead and the Little Devils Tower Trailhead. Within the Black Elk Wilderness, on the northwest fringe of Custer State Park, hiking trails lead to Black Elk Peak from almost any direction.

Note: Visitors need a park entrance permit when entering Custer State Park. The Black Elk Wilderness is managed by the Forest Service, and all users must complete and possess a free wilderness-use registration form when hiking in the Black Elk Wilderness area. Registration booths are located at trailheads and along the trail. Bikes are not allowed on most trails in this area. Drones are not to be used within the Black Elk Wilderness.

The Black Elk Wilderness is a special place; free registration is required before entering.

24 Sylvan Lake to Black Elk Peak Trail

A difficult, heavily used trail to the top of Black Elk Peak with spectacular and varied scenery along the way. It is the highest point in South Dakota and has long been referred to as the highest peak east of the main chain of the Rocky Mountains. This trail has a total elevation gain of over 1,450 feet.

Start: From the Sylvan Lake day-use area.

Elevation gain: 6,112 to 7,242 feet.

Distance: 6.8 miles out and back.

Difficulty: Strenuous due to a steep final ascent.

Hiking time: 4 to 6 hours.

Seasons: Best late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: A Custer State Park entrance permit and a free Wilderness Use Registration Permit.

Trail contacts: Custer State Park, 13329 US Highway 16A, Custer, SD 57730; (605) 255-4515; https://gfp.sd.gov/parks/detail/custer-state-park/. Black Hills National Forest Supervisor’s Office, 1019 N. 5th St., Custer, SD 57730; (605) 673-9200; www.fs.usda.gov/bhnf.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Forested trail.

Land status: Custer State Park, Black Hills National Forest (Black Elk Wilderness).

Nearest town: Custer, SD.

Other trail users: Horseback riders.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 238; BHNF Black Elk Wilderness and Norbeck Wildlife Preserve Trail System Map; Black Hills National Forest Map.

Special considerations: Hiking traffic is very heavy at times, especially during summer. This is the main route to Black Elk Peak.

Finding the trailhead: Take South Dakota Highway 89 north from just east of Custer for 6 miles to the Sylvan Lake entrance station. Follow signs to Sylvan Lake. The trailhead can be found to the north of the parking lot.

From the Custer State Park Visitor Center, take US Highway 16A west, then South Dakota Highway 87 north then west to Sylvan Lake, a total distance of about 19 miles. Park in the day-use parking lot. GPS: N43 50.796' / W103 33.607'

The Hike

Heading northeast from Sylvan Lake, the trail provides an easy to moderate ascent for the first mile, then descends gently to the area near Lost Cabin Creek, entering the Black Elk Wilderness. This area has no facilities. Water from the creek should not be consumed unless purified. During the initial ascent, you encounter a rocky outcrop with outstanding views of Black Elk Peak and its surroundings.

The trail ascends once more, reaching a ridge that is fairly flat. After 2.8 miles of hiking, the Norbeck Trail #3 joins the trail from the right (south). Trail #3 can be used to connect to Trails #4 (to Little Devils Tower) and #7 (Grizzly Bear Creek). Continue north following the “#9” blazes on trees. The final ascent is steep with several switchbacks. It is flanked by stands of ponderosa pine and granite formations; in spring and summer wildflowers abound. Close to the summit, the trail is sprinkled with mica.

Stone and mortar steps facilitate the final climb through the rocks. The final ascent to the top, at 7,242 feet, is worth the effort. The views of four different states rolling off and eventually merging with the horizon are inspiring. To the northeast, in the not-so-great distance, looms the backside of Mount Rushmore, while to the south, at a distance of about 1 mile, rugged Little Devils Tower juts out from the forest.

Because of Black Elk Peak’s grandeur, be prepared for crowds. Thunderstorms, particularly in July and August, are frequent and can produce hail and lightning. At times the sun blazes, so carry plenty of water, especially in summer. The trail has a total elevation gain of over 1,450 feet, so be prepared.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the Sylvan Lake day-use area. Access Black Elk Peak Trail #9; you will head northeast.

0.7 The Lost Cabin Trail enters from the left (north). Stay on #9 to your right (east).

1.7 Enter the Black Elk Wilderness; fill out free registration forms.

1.8 Lost Cabin Spur Trail enters from left, stay straight on Trail #9.

2.8 Intersection with Norbeck Trail #3 from the right (south) along with a sign for Trails #7 and #4 and Little Devils Tower. Stay straight (north) on #9.

3.1 Turn left at sign “Black Elk Peak and Harney Lookout” with arrow.

3.4 Arrive at Black Elk Peak.

6.8 Return to Sylvan Lake by the same route.

25 Little Devils Tower Spur Trail

A steep hike up a spur trail, winding through pine forest and ending atop Little Devils Tower among incredible rock formations and views.

See map on page 85.

Start: From the Little Devils Tower parking lot on South Dakota Highway 87 (Needles Highway).

Elevation gain: 6,267 to 6,926 feet.

Distance: 2.8 miles out and back.

Difficulty: Strenuous due to a steep final ascent.

Hiking time: 2 to 3 hours.

Seasons: Best from spring through fall.

Fees and permits: Park entrance fee.

Trail contact: Custer State Park, 13329 US Highway 16A, Custer, SD 57730; (605) 255-4515; https://gfp.sd.gov/parks/detail/custer-state-park/.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Forested trail, granite outcroppings.

Land status: Custer State Park.

Nearest town: Custer, SD.

Other trail users: Mountain bikers, horseback riders.

Maps: Custer State Park Trail Guide; National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 238; BHNF Black Elk Wilderness and Norbeck Wildlife Preserve Trail System Map; Black Hills National Forest Map.

Finding the trailhead: The trailhead is located at the Little Devils Tower parking lot, which is 0.6 mile east of Sylvan Lake on SD 87 (Needles Highway). Take South Dakota Highway 89 north from just east of Custer for 6 miles to the Sylvan Lake entrance station. Turn right on SD 87 and proceed 0.8 mile to the Little Devils Tower parking lot, on your left.

From the Custer State Park Visitor Center, take US Highway 16A west, then South Dakota Highway 87 north then west to the trailhead on your right, a total distance of about 19 miles. GPS: N43 50.590' / W103 33.152'

The Hike

Follow Trail #4/Little Devils Tower Trail northeast for about 1 mile through stands of quaking aspen and Black Hills spruce. In the right season, wildflowers such as Rocky Mountain wild iris abound. At the first trail junction, you have a choice: The trail to the right stays on Trail #4 and leads ultimately to Black Elk Peak. By taking the spur trail to the left, you will access Little Devils Tower.

The spur trail begins almost immediately with a fairly steep ascent through ponderosa pine, low-growing juniper, and rocks that look like pancakes turned on edge and stuck in the ground. At mile 1.2, the trail then makes a sharp left turn through what appears to be a cave. But this one has no roof; the walls almost touch at the top, but not quite. The summit is reached after a very steep hike on granite surfaces (which can sometimes be slippery). Follow the blue diamonds, blue spray paint markings, and rock cairns and ascend to the top of Little Devils Tower. Remember to watch your footing while on top of this massive granite peak. Black Elk Peak is

View of Little Devils Tower in the winter.

directly across the narrow valley to the north and you can also see the Cathedral Spires to the southeast. To the northeast is the backside of Mount Rushmore, to the west is the Limestone Plateau, and to the south you can view the rolling Black Hills as they descend to the prairie. The panoramic view into the Black Hills central area is well worth the strenuous hike. In summer the trail is flanked by wildflowers such as buttercups and shooting stars.

After a well-earned rest, you must now hike back down to the Little Devils Tower Trailhead. Remember that hiking off-trail in an unmarked area is not recommended or encouraged.

Option: From the west end of Little Devils Tower parking lot, you may take a short 0.5-mile marked trail west that leads to Sylvan Lake.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at Little Devils Tower Trailhead (#4).

1.0 Take the spur trail to the summit (left).

1.2 Sharp left turn.

1.4 Arrive at Little Devils Tower.

2.8 Retrace your steps to the trailhead.

26 Little Devils Tower Trailhead to Black Elk Peak

A pleasant walk through woods with the option of linking up with several trails to Black Elk Peak.

Start: At the Little Devils Tower Trailhead, located 0.6 mile east of Sylvan Lake.

Elevation gain: 6,267 to 7,242 feet.

Distance: 6.6 miles out and back.

Difficulty: Strenuous due to a steep final ascent.

Approximate hiking time: 4 to 6 hours.

Seasons: Best from late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: A Custer State Park entrance permit and a free Wilderness Use Registration Permit.

Trail contacts: Custer State Park, 13329 US Highway 16A, Custer, SD 57730; (605) 255-4515; https://gfp.sd.gov/parks/detail/custer-state-park/. Black Hills National Forest Supervisor’s Office, 1019 N. 5th St., Custer, SD 57730; (605) 673-9200; www.fs.usda.gov/bhnf.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Forested trail.

Land status: Custer State Park, Black Hills National Forest (Black Elk Wilderness).

Nearest town: Custer, SD.

Other trail users: Horseback riders.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 238; BHNF Black Elk Wilderness and Norbeck Wildlife Preserve Trail System Map; Black Hills National Forest Map.

Finding the trailhead: The trail leaves from the east end of the Little Devils Tower parking lot, which is located 0.6 mile east of Sylvan Lake on South Dakota Highway 87 (Needles Highway).

Take South Dakota Highway 89 north from just east of Custer for 6 miles to the Sylvan Lake entrance station. Turn right on SD 87 and proceed 0.8 mile to the Little Devils Tower parking lot, on your left.

From the Custer State Park Visitor Center, take US Highway 16A west, then South Dakota Highway 87 north then west to the trailhead on your right, a total distance of about 19 miles. GPS: N43 50.590' / W103 33.152'

The Hike

Oftentimes the trail to Black Elk Peak starting from Sylvan Lake is crowded with nowhere to park at the trailhead. This hike provides you an alternative route to Black Elk Peak by starting at the Little Devils Tower Trailhead parking lot, which is only 0.6 mile east of Sylvan Lake and affords better parking opportunities. By taking this route, you will pass by the awe-inspiring Cathedral Spires formations. The trail, blazed with “#4,” begins as an easy, flat ramble through the woods, and then ascends for about 1 mile to a trail junction. This could be a turnaround point for a short walk. If you wish to continue hiking, stay to the right at the junction; the left trail is the spur to Little Devils Tower.

To go on to Black Elk Peak, take the right-hand route, blazed #4. After an ascent through stands of ponderosa, you will connect with the Norbeck Trail #3. Take #3 left (north) for about 1 mile and connect with the Black Elk Peak Trail #9, going straight (north), then follow the wooden signs and continue on to Black Elk Peak.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the Little Devils Tower Trailhead (#4).

1.0 Junction with Little Devils Tower Spur Trail is on the left. Stay right (northeast) on Trail #4.

1.2 Junction with the Cathedral Spires Trail; continue straight on Trail #4.

1.8 Junction with Norbeck Trail #3. Turn left (north) on #3. Fill out free Wilderness Use Registration at the booth ahead of you, as you are entering the Black Elk Wilderness area.

2.3 Grizzly Bear Creek Trail #7 comes in from the right (east). Stay straight (north) on #3.

2.7 Sylvan Lake/Black Elk Peak Trail #9 comes in from the left. Access #9, going straight ahead (north).

3.0 Turn left (west) and follow signs to the summit of Black Elk Peak.

3.3 Arrive at Black Elk Peak.

6.6 Retrace your steps to the trailhead.

27 Cathedral Spires Trail

This strenuous trail is a great natural history trek, offering wonderful views of the spires.

See map on page 91.

Start: At the Cathedral Spires parking lot along the Needles Highway.

Elevation gain: 6,212 to 6,670 feet.

Distance: 1.8 miles out and back.

Difficulty: Strenuous due to a continuous steep ascent to the spires.

Hiking time: 1 to 2 hours.

Seasons: Best from late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: Park entrance fee.

Trail contact: Custer State Park, 13329 US Highway 16A, Custer, SD 57730; (605) 255-4515; https://gfp.sd.gov/parks/detail/custer-state-park/.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Rocky dirt path.

Land status: Custer State Park.

Nearest town: Custer, SD.

Other trail users: Horseback riders, mountain bikers.

Maps: Custer State Park Trail Guide; National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 238; BHNF Black Elk Wilderness and Norbeck Wildlife Preserve Trail System Map; Black Hills National Forest Map.

Finding the trailhead: The trail is accessed from the Cathedral Spires parking lot, 2 miles east of Sylvan Lake on South Dakota Highway 87 (Needles Highway). You can also access it from the Custer State Park Visitor Center by taking US Highway 16A west for 6 miles to SD 87 and going north for 11 miles. GPS: N43 50.503' / W103 32.117'

The Hike

In 1977 Congress proclaimed the Cathedral Spires Trail a registered Natural Landmark. Limber pine—a five-needled pine tree—grows along the trail. To find this same species elsewhere, one must travel hundreds of miles north or go west to the Bighorn Mountains. Core samplings indicate that the limber pines here are hundreds of years old. The question is, how did they ever establish themselves along this remote trail deep within the Black Hills of South Dakota? Glaciologists say that some ten thousand years ago, massive ice fields isolated these stands of Pinus flexilus. Other scientists theorize that the trees’ seeds were brought into the area by bird droppings. Whatever happened, limber pine now grow along this trail as an isolated community that remains peculiar to the Black Hills.

Hikers might ponder the mystery of the pines as well as other Black Hills’ phenomena as they hike the beautiful and inspiring Cathedral Spires Trail. The path winds and climbs among fantastic formations of granite that also contributed to the trail’s national designation. In places these spires descend to the trail’s very edges.

The Cathedral Spires Trail is a strenuous hike that begins at the north end of the parking area. At first the trail is flat, but after crossing a creek (the depth of which will depend on the amount of rainfall that year), it quickly begins its ascent and, with few exceptions, never stops. The total elevation gain on the trail is about 500 feet. Game trails as well as social trails created by rock climbers lace the area, and because they can at times be confused with the main trail, pay close attention to the progression of blue diamonds marked on trees. If you lose sight of them, simply stay between the confines of the narrow valley walls until you link once again with the main trail.

The unique rock formations of the Cathedral Spires in Custer State Park.

Once the trail climbs through the narrow U of rock bluffs, it widens and becomes much more distinct. Once the saddle is reached, a connector trail to Trail #4 veers off to the west (left), stay on the main Cathedral Spires Trail by turning east (right). The trail dead-ends (look for the sign on a tree) on the north side of the spires at a lookout. Now you must backtrack downhill.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the trailhead on the north side of the Cathedral Spires parking area.

0.9 Reach the end of the trail sign.

1.8 Backtrack to trailhead.

28 Willow Creek Loop

An easy loop trail that provides periodic vistas of Black Elk Peak.

See map on page 91.

Start: From the Willow Creek Horse Camp on South Dakota Highway 244.

Elevation gain: 5,016 to 5,301 feet.

Distance: 2.6-mile loop.

Difficulty: Easy.

Hiking time: 11/2 to 2 hours.

Seasons: Best spring through fall.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Black Hills National Forest Supervisor’s Office, 1019 N. 5th St., Custer, SD 57730; (605) 673-9200; www.fs.usda.gov/bhnf.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Forested trail.

Land status: Black Hills National Forest (Nor-beck Wildlife Preserve).

Nearest town: Hill City, SD.

Other trail users: Heavy horse use.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 238; Black Hills National Forest Map; BHNF Black Elk Wilderness and Norbeck Wildlife Preserve Trail System Map.

Finding the trailhead: The trailhead is located at Willow Creek Horse Camp on SD 244, about 3 miles east of the turnoff onto SD 244 from US Highways 16/385. From the east, Willow Creek Horse Camp is about 4 miles west of Mount Rushmore National Memorial on SD 244 (opposite Palmer Gulch KOA). Park in the grassy parking lot area just before the gate to the campground. GPS: N43 53.841' / W103 32.182'

The Hike

Willow Creek Loop Trail provides vistas of Black Elk Peak, the spires of Elkhorn Mountain, and Saint Elmo Peak as it strolls through stands of birch, aspen, spruce, and some of the Black Hills’ largest ponderosa pines. The trail is well marked on tree blazes and other waymarking posts with #8.

Because the trail access is directly across the highway from a KOA campground, this loop hike provides exceptional access for KOA campers and for those camped at the Willow Creek Campground. The trail experiences heavy horse use in the summer months.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the Willow Creek Horse Camp Trailhead, hiking counterclockwise.

1.5 Junction with Trail #9; keep left (northwest) on Trail #8 to complete the loop.

2.6 Return to trailhead parking lot.

29 Black Elk Peak Loop

A series of trails providing an outing through wilderness and some exceptional wild-life habitat. Hikers eventually reach Black Elk Peak.

Start: From Iron Creek Horse Camp Trailhead.

Elevation gain: 5,060 to 7,242 feet.

Distance: 14.7-mile lollipop.

Difficulty: Strenuous, particularly if the entire 14.7 miles are hiked in a single day.

Hiking time: All day, or add an overnight.

Seasons: Best from late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: A Custer State Park entrance permit when in the park and a free Wilderness Use Registration Permit.

Trail contacts: Custer State Park, 13329 US Highway 16A, Custer, SD 57730; (605) 255-4515; https://gfp.sd.gov/parks/detail/custer-state-park/. Black Hills National Forest Supervisor’s Office, 1019 N. 5th St., Custer, SD 57730; (605) 673-9200; www.fs.usda.gov/bhnf.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Forested trail.

Land status: Custer State Park, Black Hills National Forest (Black Elk Wilderness).

Nearest town: Custer, SD.

Other trail users: Horseback riders.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 238; Black Hills National Forest Map; BHNF Black Elk Wilderness and Norbeck Wildlife Preserve Trail System Map.

Finding the trailhead: Although the drive to reach the trailhead begins in Custer State Park, the trailhead is just over the boundary in Black Hills National Forest. The trek begins at Iron Creek Horse Camp. To reach the trailhead, take US Highway 16A west for 6 miles from the Custer State Park Visitor Center to South Dakota Highway 87 (Needles Highway) and go north for about 6 miles. A sign on the right to Iron Creek Horse Camp indicates your turn. Follow the dirt road about 0.5 mile, then take the first road to the left and park at the road’s end. Trailhead parking is available on the northwest side of the horse camp. GPS: N43 49.680' / W103 28.425'

The Hike

For those interested in a challenging hike, this combination of four different trails provides just that. Because the distance is lengthy, some consideration should be given to camping in the Black Elk Wilderness. Water is plentiful, though it must be purified, and primitive wilderness campsites are abundant. Before pitching your tent, however, check that you are not camped in a patch of poison ivy. Practice zero-impact ethics.

The trail, heading west-southwest, begins at the trailhead at the end of the road on the northwest edge of Iron Creek Horse Camp. Look for the Black Elk Wilderness information panel and fill out the necessary forms and permits (free). Shortly thereafter the trail crosses what is often an insignificant Iron Creek, as far as stream crossings go. At this point the trail sign says Norbeck Trail #3.

At the beginning of the hike, much of the forest consists of bur oak, ponderosa pine, quaking aspen, and some paper birch. The bottom portion of the trail is wide, but as it begins to ascend, the trail narrows and soon passes over several small saddles. About 1.6 miles out from the trailhead, the trail approaches and parallels the Needles Highway. It then passes another possible access site, the Upper Norbeck Trailhead (within the boundaries of Custer State Park), where there is also a registration panel for the Black Elk Wilderness.

From here the trail begins to climb abruptly to the north. Soon hikers are rewarded with close-up views of jumbled rock formations. Equally impressive are the many trees that have managed to establish footholds among these seemingly impenetrable boulders. This part of the trail passes through the west side of the Black Elk Wilderness Area. After you hike 5.3 miles, Trail #4 joins from the left (west); continue right (north) on Norbeck Trail #3. Only 0.5 mile later, Grizzly Bear Creek Trail #7 veers off to your right. This is the return trail to make a loop back to the Iron Creek Horse Camp. You have the choice of taking this trail back now or pressing on to Black Elk Peak.

About 6.2 miles from the Iron Creek Trailhead, hikers link with the Sylvan Lake/

Black Elk Peak Trail #9, which enters from the west and continues to Black Elk Peak. After the 1.2-mile climb to Black Elk Peak and back on Trail #9, pick up the Grizzly Bear Creek Trail #7 to your left, and begin what is essentially a continuous descent. Backpackers should note that they are in the Black Elk Wilderness and that camping options are numerous, but camping is not allowed within 0.25 mile of Black Elk Peak or the trails. Practice zero-impact camping rules so that others who follow will have an equally good wilderness experience.

Because you are in a wilderness, bridges across streams are lacking. Consequently the numerous stream crossings may result in wet feet, ankles, and sometimes even thighs unless you find a stable log or two. Vegetation on the descent is similar to what was encountered during the ascent, except for the last 3 miles. Here you will see evidence of beaver activity, which provides you with what certainly is one of the best examples in the Black Hills of the industriousness of this enterprising mammal. The dams constructed by these creatures vary in length from 75 yards to only a few feet. Beavers have modified the area’s entire ecology, creating habitat upon which many other species are dependent. White-tailed deer feed on the grasses, and the impoundments created by the dams attract ducks of various species. The rushes and cattails provide prime habitat for red-winged blackbirds. On this section of the trail, you can count on wet boots, or include a pair of wading shoes in your pack.

After hiking a total 5.5 miles on Grizzly Bear Creek Trail #7, the trail converges with the Centennial Trail from the north. Continue south at this junction for several hundred yards until reaching the signpost for Centennial Trail #89, heading due south. Continue on this trail, which winds through rocks and woods for 1.4 miles before ending at the Iron Creek Trailhead, just east of where the hike began.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the Iron Creek Horse Camp Trailhead, Norbeck Trail #3.

2.4 Reach the Upper Norbeck Trailhead.

5.3 Trail #4 joins from the left; keep right (north) on Norbeck Trail #3.

5.8 Junction with Grizzly Bear Creek Trail #7; continue on Trail #3 to Black Elk Peak. (Option: Begin your return to the trailhead from this point, reducing the total hike distance by 2 miles.)

6.2 Sylvan Lake–Trail #9 joins from the west. Take Trail #9 north.

6.5 Follow signs to Black Elk Peak.

6.8 Reach Black Elk Peak. Begin return of loop by taking Trail #9 to the right (south) as you leave Black Elk Peak.

7.3 Trail #9 (to Sylvan Lake) bears to the right. Stay left (south) on what will now be Norbeck Trail #3.

7.7 Grizzly Bear Creek Trail #7 comes in from your left and heads east. Take this trail (#7).

10.9 Horsethief Lake Trail joins from the north. Keep heading southeast on #7.

13.2 Centennial Trail #89 comes in from the north. Stay right (southeast) on #7.

13.3 Centennial Trail #89 joins from the south. Take this trail.

14.7 Return to the east side of the Iron Creek Horse Camp.

30 Lost Cabin–Black Elk Peak Loop

A vigorous loop hike through a variety of lofty terrain so beautiful that one of the trails (Lost Cabin) has been designated a National Recreation Trail.

Start: From Willow Creek Horse Camp Trailhead.

Elevation gain: 5,016 to 7,242 feet.

Distance: 13.3-mile loop.

Difficulty: Strenuous.

Hiking time: Count on nearly a full day.

Seasons: Best from late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: Free Wilderness Use Registration form required.

Trail contact: Black Hills National Forest Supervisor’s Office, 1019 N. 5th St., Custer, SD 57730; (605) 673-9200; www.fs.usda.gov/bhnf.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Forested trail.

Land status: Black Hills National Forest (Nor-beck Wildlife Preserve; Black Elk Wilderness).

Nearest town: Hill City, SD.

Other trail users: Horseback riders.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 238; BHNF Black Elk Wilderness and Norbeck Wildlife Preserve Trail System Map; Black Hills National Forest Map.

Finding the trailhead: The trailhead is located at Willow Creek Horse Camp on South Dakota Highway 244, about 3 miles east of the turnoff onto SD 244 from US Highways 16/385. From the east, Willow Creek Horse Camp is about 4 miles west of Mount Rushmore National Memorial on SD 244 (opposite Palmer Gulch KOA). Park in the grassy parking lot before the campground. Walk into the campground and take the first gravel road to the left. The trail begins past campsites 1–3 at the end of the road. GPS: N43 53.630' / W103 32.163'

The Hike

Part of the Black Elk Peak Trail system, this hike may be one of the most picturesque in the interior. It is somewhat less strenuous if followed in the direction suggested here, but those desiring a more strenuous hike can reverse the loop. Plan to spend most of a day on this hike; you will want to stop often to absorb the views.

As a trail of such immense appeal, it has been designated as a National Recreation Trail in the Black Hills National Forest. The Lost Cabin Trail #2 is quickly accessed by departing from Willow Creek Horse Camp and following the sign for Trail #2. Do not confuse this trail with Willow Creek Trail #8, which is also located near the horse camp. The Lost Cabin Trail starts past campsites 1–3 within the Willow Creek Horse Camp (make sure to carefully read “Finding the trailhead”).

The trail immediately ascends through numerous granite outcroppings and stands of ponderosa pine and birch to a saddle. At the saddle the trail begins a series of gentle ups and downs, though the general grade is up. About 1.3 miles from the trailhead, you will cross Nelson Creek. About 0.1 mile later you will encounter a second major junction. The trail to the west (right), ends up at the Palmer Creek Trailhead; stay left.

View of Black Elk Peak as seen from Trail #9 North.

Follow Trail #2 south and ascend to a wide saddle. In July the sides of the trail are sprinkled with a variety of wildflowers. Look for camas, Indian paintbrush, harebell, and yarrow. Juniper berries weigh heavy on the low-growing bushes.

The trail levels for a short distance then climbs moderately. At this point the elevation is over 6,000 feet. After entering the wilderness, the trail undulates mildly, soon crossing a small stream and entering a parklike setting. In summer bunchberry dog-wood blossoms by the stream and the smell of wild mint is strong. Spire and needle formations surround the trail. The Lost Cabin Spur is reached after hiking a total of 4.7 miles.

From the stream, the Lost Cabin Spur continues for another 1.3 miles where it concludes as it joins with Black Elk Peak Trail #9. Hike east/northeast (left) on Trail #9, then make a sharp left (north/northwest), climbing 1.4 miles until you reach the Black Elk Peak spur trail on the left. Follow the signs and ascend the short, steep spur trail to Black Elk Peak.

Descend from Black Elk Peak and resume hiking along Trail #9 by turning left and heading north. The initial descent is steep. For the next mile the trail makes no fewer than thirty switchbacks as it plummets 500 feet. The trail then levels to a saddle offering superb views of Black Elk Peak, the backside of Mount Rushmore, and surrounding spire formations. Here, facing east, one can clearly see the Hogback Ridge (Lakota Formation) and Red Valley (Spearfish Formation), which engulf the granite formations of the central area of the Black Hills. In the more distant east, the Badlands suggest a great mystery as they blend with the horizon.

For the next 2 miles, the trail descends and winds through ponderosa pine, eroded pinnacles and spires, and boulder fields of Elkhorn Mountain. At mile 12.3, the trail connects with the Willow Creek Trail #8; take this trail to the right (north/northwest) and loop back to your vehicle at the grassy parking area near the Willow Creek Horse Camp.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the Willow Creek Horse Camp Trailhead. Head south, following signs for the Lost Cabin Trail #2.

1.3 Cross Nelson Creek.

1.4 The trail to Palmer Creek Trailhead comes in from the right. Do not take this trail.

4.7 Take the Lost Cabin Spur to the left (east).

6.0 The trail intersects with Black Elk Peak Trail #9. Turn left here (north), staying on Trail #9.

7.4 Follow signs to Black Elk Peak.

7.7 Arrive at Black Elk Peak.

8.0 Descending from Black Elk Peak, go left (north) on Trail #9 toward Willow Creek Horse Camp.

11.2 Willow Creek–Rushmore Trail #5 goes east (right). Continue left to the northwest on #9 toward Willow Creek Horse Camp.

12.3 Turn right (northwest) on Willow Creek Trail #8 and loop back to the campground.

13.3 Return to the Willow Creek Horse Camp parking area.

31 Iron Mountain Loop

A loop hike taking hikers from mountaintop to forest floor while hiking over streams, into small valleys flanked by rock formations, and through parklike settings cut by beaver dams.

Start: At the Iron Mountain Picnic Area on Iron Mountain Road.

Elevation gain: 4,862 to 5,329 feet.

Distance: 5.9-mile lollipop.

Difficulty: Easy to moderate.

Hiking time: 2 to 4 hours.

Seasons: Best from late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: Free Wilderness Use Registration form required.

Trail contact: Black Hills National Forest Supervisor’s Office, 1019 N. 5th St., Custer, SD 57730; (605) 673-9200; www.fs.usda.gov/bhnf.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Forested trail, dirt road.

Land status: Black Hills National Forest (Nor-beck Wildlife Preserve; Black Elk Wilderness).

Nearest town: Keystone, SD.

Other trail users: Horseback riders.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 238; Black Hills National Forest Map; BHNF Black Elk Wilderness and Norbeck Wildlife Preserve Trail System Map.

Finding the trailhead: From the Custer State Park Visitor Center, take US Highway 16A east for about 2 miles. Take a left onto Iron Mountain Road (US 16A) toward Mount Rushmore for 12.9 miles to the trailhead sign on the left. The trail begins at the west end of the parking area for the Iron Mountain Picnic Area.

Or from Keystone, take US 16A (Iron Mountain Road) south for about 4 miles to the trailhead. GPS: N43 51.262' / W103 26.261'

The Hike

The Iron Mountain Loop Trail is a day trip that provides hikers with glimpses of the many facets of the Black Hills. This trail is almost entirely in the wilderness, and bikes are not allowed in the wilderness areas; signs are posted to that effect. From the parking lot, follow the asphalt path past the toilets to access the trailhead and fill out the Black Elk Wilderness registration form at the sign.

The trail begins as a wide dirt trail blazed “#89B.” It heads west and, at 0.3 mile, joins the Iron Mountain Trail #16, which goes south (left) and which you follow. The trail is well marked with “#16” blazed on trees.

After approximately 1.7 miles the trail meets an improved gravel road (Forest Road 345). Go west-southwest (right) on the road. Follow the dirt road for about 1 mile, where six bridges cross Iron Creek as it meanders through the mountains. Take the next trail to the northwest (right), where the trail sign indicates Grizzly Bear Creek Trail #7. Along this path, you will see inspiring granite formations. In the fall the yellow-and rust-colored leaves intermingle with the dark green of the ponderosa pine, lending even more drama to the igneous rock. Small mammals hide here, and you might catch (as we did) glimpses of an elusive mink.

After another 0.8 mile the trail takes a hard right (the trail sign indicates Centennial Trail #89) and heads north for 0.5 mile, where you will encounter yet another junction. Follow the trail signs for 1.8 miles to the northeast (right) on #89B, thus completing the loop back to the Iron Mountain picnic area. This is an easy to moderate trek of two to four hours, presenting great vistas.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the Iron Mountain Picnic Area Trailhead. Take the asphalt path past the toilets to access the trail, blazed “89B.”

0.3 Go south (left) at the junction with Iron Mountain Trail #16.

1.7 Head southwest (right) on FR 345.

2.8 Take Grizzly Bear Creek Trail #7 west (right).

3.6 Go north (right) at the junction with Centennial Trail #89.

4.1 At the junction take Centennial Bypass (89B) to the east.

5.9 Passing Trail #16 on the right, the beginning of the loop, return to the Iron Mountain Picnic Area Trailhead.

32 Horsethief Lake to Mount Rushmore

An extremely scenic out-and-back hike departing from Horsethief Lake and terminating at Mount Rushmore, with access to other trails, some leading to Black Elk Peak.

See map on page 104.

Start: At the trailhead parking area on the southern side of Horsethief Lake.

Elevation gain: 4,871 to 5,494 feet.

Distance: 8 miles out and back.

Difficulty: Moderate.

Hiking time: 3 to 4 hours.

Seasons: Best from spring through fall.

Fees and permits: Free Wilderness Use Registration form required.

Trail contact: Black Hills National Forest Supervisor’s Office, 1019 N. 5th St., Custer, SD 57730; (605) 673-9200; www.fs.usda.gov/bhnf; Mount Rushmore National Memorial, 13000 Highway 244, Building 31, Suite 1, Keystone, SD 57751; (605) 574-2523; www.nps.gov/moru/.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted on trail; dogs not allowed inside Mount Rushmore itself.

Trail surface: Forested trail.

Land status: Black Hills National Forest (Black Elk Wilderness); Mount Rushmore National Memorial.

Nearest town: Keystone, SD.

Other trail users: Horseback riders.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 238; Black Hills National Forest Map; BHNF Black Elk Wilderness and Norbeck Wildlife Preserve Trail System Map.

Finding the trailhead: The trailhead is located at the southern end of Horsethief Lake off South Dakota Highway 244. From the junction of US Highways 385/16 between Hill City and Custer, take SD 244 east for 6.6 miles. Turn right at the Horsethief Lake Trailhead sign.

From Mount Rushmore, proceed west on SD 244 and look for the trailhead sign on your left. GPS: N43 53.354' / W103 28.940'

The Hike

In the 1930s, the Civilian Conservation Corps and the South Dakota Corps of Engineers created Horsethief Lake by building a dam along Pine Creek. This scenic lake is a popular stop along the way to or from Mount Rushmore National Memorial. The fishing is good; the lake is home to rainbow trout, golden shiner, and yellow perch.

The trailhead is located on the south side of Horsethief Lake near the day-use area. Look for the Black Elk Wilderness informational panel and fill out the proper registration forms (free) at the trailhead. The trail begins on Horsethief Lake Trail #14. This is a peaceful and very picturesque hike, particularly when birch and aspen leaves are turning in autumn. The trail parallels and crosses a stream with several small, beautiful waterfalls. Granite rock formations rise steeply on each side, giving the sensation of entering an area known by no one else. Horses are not allowed on this section of the trail.

After you hike only 0.6 mile, the trail intersects with the Centennial Trail (#89). To continue on to Mount Rushmore, turn left (southeast) on the Centennial Trail. If venturing on to other trails, make sure you have a good map, compass, and enough supplies for longer hikes. At this trail junction, Horsethief Lake Trail #14 continues its southerly route and connects to Grizzly Bear Creek Trail #7. The hike on the Centennial Trail to the west links up with the Willow Creek–Rushmore Trail #5 and leads to the Willow Creek Horse Camp.

Mount Rushmore, a major tourist attraction in South Dakota.

Continuing the hike on the Centennial Trail to the southeast toward Mount Rushmore, the trail winds up and down through forests and rocks and reaches its highest elevation of 5,494 feet.

After hiking 2.5 miles on the Centennial Trail, you reach the Blackberry Trail. Turn left at this junction and head in a northerly direction. This portion of the trail is within the boundaries of Mount Rushmore National Memorial. At the end of the trail, there is a hitching post for horses and a picnic area. Mount Rushmore can be viewed from this spot.

Mount Rushmore National Memorial is operated by the National Park Service and the rock sculpture itself (built between 1927 and 1941) features four American presidents: George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt, and Abraham Lincoln (from left to right). The memorial attracts millions of visitors each year. From the end of the trail near the picnic area, you will have to hike back on the same trails to return to the Horsethief Lake parking lot, making this out-and-back trail a total of about 8 miles.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the trailhead near Horsethief Lake.

0.6 Keep left (southeast) on Centennial Trail #89.

3.1 Junction with Blackberry Trail; follow the signs that lead to Mount Rushmore.

4.0 End of trail with views of Mount Rushmore.

8.0 Backtrack to Horsethief Lake.

Deerfield

In 1874, two years before the battle along Montana’s Little Bighorn River, Lt. Col. George A. Custer led an expedition into the Black Hills. A cartographer traveled with the group and helped map much of this area. With this information, settlers soon followed. The confirmation of gold in the Black Hills changed the region forever. Though the Black Hills were promised by treaty to the Lakota nation, the lure of gold was too great, and the promises were broken.

During this 1874 expedition, Custer and his men camped on Castle Creek at what eventually became known as Deerfield (first known as Mountain City). Deerfield was the site of a short gold rush, and a small town evolved there and remained until 1940, at which time developers moved the school, store, post office, and other buildings to make way for the impoundment resulting from construction of Deerfield Dam. A project of the Bureau of Reclamation, the dam was built between 1942 and 1946 by approximately 500 men. The workers named their completed dam “A Monument of Peace,” as most of the men who worked on the project were conscientious objectors during World War II.

Other mining towns also evolved, and several still linger along the route traversed by the Deerfield Trail. Canyon City, just below the mouth of Slate Creek, took root in the 1880s and 1890s, when men worked placer mines here. Silver City, near trail’s end, was once home to 300 people, many of whom dug for gold, silver, antimony, and lead. Today only a few residents remain. Silver City is near Pactola Reservoir, another great recreational lake offering fishing, swimming, hiking, and boating.

The Silver City Trailhead is located at the end of town on Rapid Creek, a great trout-fishing stream. The Deerfield Trail, completed in 1992, and its associated Lake Loop Trail expose a slice of history unique to the Black Hills.

The Deerfield Trail, highlighted in the hikes described in this section, also approaches three other towns that at one time hummed with activity and the thud and pound of dredge, ax, and shovel. Two of these are Castleton and Mystic. Though the town site of Castleton has faded with time, Mystic retains a number of its structures. As a result of its history, much of the small village has been placed on the National Register of Historic Places. Mystic was first named Sitting Bull by miners in 1876. As the town developed and the mining activity flourished, railroad tracks were laid. One of the town’s most long-lived operations was a sawmill, which provided jobs for other residents and which operated until 1952. Today the George S. Mickelson Trail links with the Deerfield Trail near the Dougherty Trailhead.

Hikers and bikers often follow the old Grand Island & Wyoming Central Railroad (later the Burlington Northern) rail lines. Those who hike to Castleton and Mystic are traveling along this old rail line. As well as slicing through much of the nation’s mining and railroad history and South Dakota’s in particular, the Deerfield Trail provides access to some of the state’s best fishing. Deerfield Lake offers anglers the opportunity to catch rainbow trout.

One of the tunnels along the Flume Trail in the central Black Hills.

The Deerfield Trail passes through some of the most spectacular country in the Black Hills, an area abundant with wildlife. Look to the meadows for white-tailed deer, to the streams for beaver, and the woods for turkey. Because the elevation loss is almost 2,000 feet as one travels west to east, we recommend that you proceed in that direction.

33 Deerfield Trail

Suitable for hikers, mountain bikers, and horseback riders, the Deerfield Trail slices through segments of the nation’s history and some of the Black Hills’ most pristine country.

Start: From the Custer Trailhead at Deerfield Lake on Forest Road 417.

Elevation gain: 4,593 to 6,200 feet.

Distance: 25.7 miles one way.

Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous.

Hiking time: One very long day or an overnight for a 2-day trip.

Seasons: Best from late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Mystic Ranger District, 8221 S. Highway 16, Rapid City, SD 57702; (605) 343-1567; www.fs.usda.gov/bhnf.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Forested trail.

Land status: Black Hills National Forest.

Nearest towns: Hill City and Rapid City, SD.

Other trail users: Mountain bikers and horseback riders.

Maps: Black Hills National Forest Map; BHNF Deerfield & Lake Loop Trails Map No. 40 & 40L; National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Map No. 751.

Special considerations: Considering the length of the trail, you may need to use a two-vehicle system or arrange for a shuttle.

Finding the trailheads: To reach the Custer Trailhead and Deerfield Lake, follow Deerfield Road (marked as Forest Road 17 on some maps) northwest out of the center of Hill City for 20 miles and around the lake until it intersects with FR 417. Follow FR 417 for 1.5 miles to Deerfield Lake and the Custer Trailhead. The Custer Trailhead is common to both the Deerfield Trail #40 and Deer-field Lake Loop Trail #40L. GPS: N44 01.519' / W103 47.884'

To begin at the Kinney Canyon Trailhead, start in Hill City and proceed 10.2 miles along Deer-field Road until it intersects with Forest Road 188 (also called Slate Prairie Road). Turn right at the fork and proceed 2.8 miles to the trailhead. GPS: N44 01.818' / W103 45.403'

The Dougherty Trailhead also can be reached from Hill City. Take Deerfield Road northwest for about 5 miles until it intersects with Forest Road 231 (Mystic Road). Go 5.6 miles to the Dougherty Trailhead, on the left. GPS: N44 02.996' / W103 40.184'

To get to the Silver City Trailhead, take US 385 north from Hill City for 18 miles to the sign for Silver City. Turn left and continue on Silver City Road for 4.4 miles. Then keep right on Forest Service Road 141 to the trailhead (look for the trailhead sign). GPS: N44 05.229' / W103 34.249'

To reach the Deer Creek Trailhead, take US 385 north from Hill City for 18 miles until it intersects with Silver City Road. Follow this road 0.3 mile to the Deer Creek Trailhead. This trailhead is common to both the Deerfield Trail and the Centennial Trail. GPS: N44 06.432' / W103 32.199'

The following hike description starts at the Custer Trailhead.

The Hike

Because elevation loss (or gain) along the route is substantial, the trail is most easily traveled by proceeding from west to east.

From the Custer Trailhead at Deerfield Lake, the Deerfield Trail’s western terminus, the trail ascends and descends through Reynolds Prairie, high above the lake. At mile 2.4, the Deerfield Lake Loop Trail veers off to the right; you will want to keep left in an easterly direction to continue on the main Deerfield Trail (#40). It then passes the Kinney Canyon Trailhead at mile 3.7 and the trail reaches its highest elevation (6,200 feet) at Slate Prairie and nearby Signal Knob. At this point, the Deerfield Trail passes through a gate as the vegetation changes from ponderosa to a prairie ecosystem. Deer often graze in the meadows of Slate Prairie, and it is worth pausing to examine the grassy swales for movement.

The trail then begins a rather abrupt descent as it enters Whitetail Gulch. Simultaneously the trail parallels Crooked Creek—flanked by stands of quaking aspen—where it soon reaches the Dougherty Trailhead. Just north are the Castleton dredge mining sites and Mystic, a mining camp turned railroad town. To the south is the old Mystic Civilian Conservation Corps camp, active in the 1930s.

At the Dougherty Trailhead the trail crosses the Mystic Road and converges with the George S. Mickelson Trail. The Deerfield Trail then veers from the Mickelson Trail, ascends, then drops through Lind Gulch. Here the vegetation changes to ponderosa and soon enters the sheer-walled Slate Creek Canyon.

As you travel, you will pass Black Tom Mine, Flannigan Cabin, and the Warren-Lamb flume, which in 1920 carried logs to the Canyon City railhead. Despite time, some of these structures remain in exceptional condition, and the Forest Service asks travelers to leave them as they find them.

After the convergence of Slate and Rapid Creeks, the going is fairly easy. Bridges here are planked and broad for greater crossing ease. Fishing in some of the rocky canyons and their deep holes along Rapid Creek is excellent.

Once this portion of the trail was traversed by the Rapid City, Black Hills & Western railway, which crossed more than a hundred bridges on its way to Mystic. The rails have been removed, making the segment of the trail along Rapid Creek to Silver City ideal for hikers, cyclists, and cross-country skiers.

From the Silver City Trailhead, the trail follows a gravel road for about 0.6 mile, and then proceeds through an open meadow. The trail then makes an 825-foot ascent over a ridge and links up with the Centennial Trail. The Deer Creek Trailhead is reached just 0.5 mile later, completing the entirety of the Deerfield Trail.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start from the Custer Trailhead at Deerfield Lake.

2.4 The Deerfield Trail #40 and the Lake Loop split here; keep left (east) on the main Deerfield Trail.

3.7 Reach the Kinney Canyon Trailhead.

10.2 Pass the Dougherty Trailhead.

21.2 Arrive at the Silver City Trailhead.

25.2 Junction with Centennial Trail; turn left (northwest) to continue to the Deer Creek Trailhead.

25.7 End at Deer Creek.

34 Deerfield Lake Loop

A winding loop trail that begins in a prairie and meanders through ponderosa pine forests as it circles Deerfield Lake.

Start: From the Custer Trailhead on the north shore of Deerfield Lake.

Elevation gain: 5,791 to 6,238 feet.

Distance: 12-mile loop.

Difficulty: Moderate.

Hiking time: Most of a day.

Seasons: Best from late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Mystic Ranger District, 8221 S. Highway 16, Rapid City, SD 57702; (605) 343–1567; www.fs.usda.gov/bhnf.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Dirt path, forested trail.

Land status: Black Hills National Forest.

Nearest town: Hill City, SD.

Other trail users: Horseback riders, mountain bikers.

Maps: Black Hills National Forest Map, BHNF Deerfield & Lake Loop Trails Map No. 40 & 40L; National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Map No. 751.

Finding the trailhead: To access the Custer Trailhead on the north shore of Deerfield Lake, follow Deerfield Road northwest out of the center of Hill City for 20 miles and around the lake until it intersects with FR 417. Follow FR 417 for 1.5 miles to Deerfield Lake and the Custer Trailhead (GPS: N44 01.519' / W103 47.884'). The Deerfield Lake Loop can also be accessed from the North Shore Trailhead on the end of Forest Road 461 (GPS: N44 01.158' / W103 48.897'); and from the Gold Run Trailhead on the south side of the lake (GPS: N44 00.458' / W103 47.499').

The Hike

Note: The Deerfield Lake Loop trail has been rerouted since the last publication of this guidebook.

We began by hiking clockwise from the Custer Trailhead north of the Custer Campground area (also the western terminus of Deerfield Trail #40). The campground and boat ramp area are managed by Forest Recreation Management, which collects fees for use. However, for those who are hiking only the Deerfield Trail system and stay north of the fee area, no fees are required. The somewhat rocky trail begins as a progression of sharp, short ascents and descents through the southern end of Reynolds Prairie, passing through numerous cattle gates. In summer various wildflowers bloom. Because this is a multiple-use area, many gates are encountered throughout the hike. Be sure to leave them as they are, open or closed.

For the next 2.4 miles, you follow both Trails #40 and #40L; symbols for both routes are displayed. Signs shaped like deer prints signify Deerfield Trail #40; signs showing a lake engulfed by undulating waves signifies Deerfield Lake Loop #40L. In wooded areas, follow the gray diamonds nailed on trees. Views of the Deerfield Dam are obtained on this section of the trail, with the thunderous sound of water flowing through.

Approximately 2.1 miles from the trailhead, descend steeply and cross a dirt road and Castle Creek. After a couple narrow, ankle-deep stream crossings, travelers reach the junction of Trails #40 and #40L. Take 40L, which juts to the right, heading south.

Until this point lake views are numerous, but from here, those vistas become fewer as you progress in a somewhat constant series of ups and downs through the ponderosa pine forest. Quiet and lucky hikers often catch views of wildlife amid the huge trees. About 5.7 miles into the hike, you reach the Gold Run Trailhead, offering a great lake view. Make sure to follow the waymarking signs for Trail #40L and not to jump any fences or walk through any closed-off areas. Here, the trail parallels a fenced-in area all the way to the paved Deerfield Road, then circles back to the Gold Run Trailhead parking lot.

The trail then winds its way across the southern side of the lake, passing through picnic sites and other recreation areas. The trail crosses a dirt road (Whitetail Loop Road) 2.4 miles after the Gold Run Trailhead and resumes on the opposite side. The trail then parallels Deerfield Road for about a half mile then quickly turns east and crosses a small footbridge.

The final portion of the hike assume a series of steep ups and downs around the northwest side of the lake, winding high on dirt cliffs and passing through woods and open fields until the trail concludes on the gravel road just outside Custer Campground.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the Custer Trailhead near the Custer Campground on the north shore of Deerfield Lake. Hike the trail clockwise.

2.1 Cross gravel road and Castle Creek.

2.4 Trails 40 and 40L split here; continue south (right) on 40L.

3.7 Come to gravel road; look for gray diamond with arrow to your right.

5.7 Reach the Gold Run Trailhead.

7.6 The trail makes a U-shaped turn; follow signs.

8.1 The trail crosses a gravel road (Whitetail Loop Road) and begins to parallel Deerfield Road.

10.0 Arrive at the North Shore Trailhead.

12.0 The loop ends on the north side of the Custer Trails area.

35 Flume Trail

A fascinating trek through one of the historic gold mining areas in the Black Hills. The trail follows, in part, an old flume bed, and there are good interpretive descriptions throughout. If you hike the entire length, you will need to arrange for a shuttle or for a two-car system.

Start: From the western terminus of the Flume Trail, called the Calumet Trailhead. Go to Sheridan Lake Campground and follow signs to the trail on the southeast shore of the lake.

Elevation gain: 4,445 to 4,969 feet.

Distance: 11 miles one way.

Difficulty: Easy to moderate.

Hiking time: All day, or an easy 2-day trek.

Seasons: Best from late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Mystic Ranger District, 8221 S. Highway 16, Rapid City, SD 57702; (605) 343-1567; www.fs.usda.gov/bhnf.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Forested trail.

Land status: Black Hills National Forest.

Nearest towns: Hill City and Rapid City, SD.

Other trail users: Hikers only.

Maps: Black Hills National Forest Map; BHNF Flume Trail Map No. 50; National Geographic/ Trails Illustrated Map No. 751.

Finding the trailhead: Take US 385 north from the center of Hill City for about 6 miles to Sheridan Lake Campground on the right and follow the signs for the Flume Trail and Centennial Trail Trailheads on the southeast shore of the lake. This is the western terminus of the Flume Trail and is called the Calumet Trailhead. GPS: N43 57.878' / W103 27.631' The eastern terminus, Coon Hollow Trailhead, is 0.25 mile from the old mining town of Rockerville, located on County Road 233 (Silver Mountain Road), which is about 14 miles northeast of Hill City off US Highway 16. GPS: N43 57.300' / W103 22.127'

The Hike

The Flume Trail is filled with the history of gold mining in the area and is, in addition, a wonderful nature walk. One of many National Recreation Trails in the Black Hills region, the path follows much of an old flume bed. Old parts of the wooden flume can still be seen along this route, as well as other historic artifacts. In the 1880s, the flume transported water from Spring Creek all the way to the Rockerville area, a distance of about 20 miles. Many photo opportunities exist on this trail, including canyons, forests, tunnels, and prairie fields alive with wildflowers in summer. Hikers cannot help but imagine the gold miners who built the flume with picks, hammers, and shovels.

Visitors can hike this trail in one day or make it a comfortable two-day hike. Those desiring to hike the entire length of trail one-way should arrange for a shuttle or use two vehicles. Those wishing to backtrack or hike shorter segments can access the trail from two other trailheads, the Upper Spring Creek Trailhead off Sheridan Lake Road or the Boulder Hill Trailhead on FSR 358 (Boulder Hill Road).

From the Calumet/Flume Trailhead, the trail begins by crossing a small footbridge over a creek. Flume Trail #50 (marked with gray diamonds on trees) shares this easy, relatively flat walk with the Centennial Trail #89 for about 1 mile. Together they parallel the lakeshore as they head toward the east end of the lake and the earthen dam. Upon reaching the dam area, #89 heads north (which is also a section of Loop A) while the main portion of Flume Trail #50 cuts sharply to the east (right) into pine forest. Some of the trail markers are a distinctive red, white, and blue, signifying you are hiking a National Recreation Trail. At this first junction, hikers ascend to the ridge above the dam. To continue on the Flume Trail, keep right and follow the gray diamond markings on trees, heading away from the dam.

Continue walking along a cliff base above a boulder field for about 1.6 miles from the trailhead, where you will reach the first of two old tunnels on the trail. Very low and cut entirely by hand and back muscle into ancient rock (schist), this tunnel extends for 75 to 100 feet. Hikers who have an aversion to dark, low places have the option of hiking over the top. The trail then begins to swing away from the canyon.

At mile 2, the path ascends and descends briefly in a small series of switchbacks through the ponderosa woods. Soon you encounter the first of many signs along the trail that interpret the Rockerville Flume, vital to the area’s gold mining operations in the late 1800s. The path then ascends out of Blue Lead Draw to Spring Creek Canyon.

As you continue on the Flume Trail #50, you soon reach the second tunnel, this one about 25 feet long. The trail then swings due south, descends to cross a feeder creek, then ascends gently to the north. At mile 2.8 you will pick up the first of many old four-wheel-drive trails that the Flume Trail #50 follows. Ascend through a flower-strewn meadow to the Baker Meadow overview, which offers a prime example of a prairie and forest edging. An “edge” is an ecological term indicating an area preferred by wildlife because of the juxtaposition of food and cover.

At this point you are a couple miles west of Boulder Hill, and this massive rocky hill (elevation 5,331 feet) can easily be seen to the east on clear days. The trail makes another series of gently rolling descents and ascents in meadows and woods, on and off old four-wheel-drive roads. Trail markers are sometimes absent or hard to see, but some signs indicating “foot travel only” exist. Follow these as the trail winds its way to the Boulder Hill Trailhead parking lot.

Leaving the Boulder Hill Trailhead, the trail proceeds east and slightly southeast, following the trail markers and “foot travel only” signs.

The trail is broader toward the end as it winds through the forest. You will pass over a rock cut, through which the flume water flowed, dug by hand. When you reach Coon Hollow Trailhead (the eastern terminus of the Flume Trail), the town of Rockerville is just to the east.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the western terminus, the Calumet Trailhead. The Flume Trail #50 shares the beginning of this walk with the Centennial Trail #89 for about 1 mile.

0.9 The Flume Trail #50 cuts sharply right (east); take this turn. The Centennial Trail #89 goes north. Do not follow the Centennial Trail.

1.6 Arrive at the first tunnel.

2.0 Meeting with Flume Trail Loop A; keep hiking straight on the main portion of the trail.

2.4 Arrive at the second tunnel.

6.7 Optional Flume Trail Loop B comes in from the north; keep heading in an easterly direction toward the Boulder Hill Trailhead.

7.3 Reach the Boulder Hill Trailhead; continue hike on opposite side of parking lot.

8.0 Junction with Boulder Hill Spur Trail; keep left in a southeasterly direction to continue on Flume Trail.

8.8 Reach Air Force Vista.

11.0 Arrive at the eastern trail terminus, Coon Hollow Trailhead.

Option: At mile 8.0 you have the option of taking an extra half-hour hike to the top of Boulder Hill (leave time to linger there) and obtain views of the surrounding area. The Needles, Black Elk Peak, and other peaks can be seen to the west, while the eastern plains and the Badlands can be seen to the east.

36 Spring Creek Loop

A flat loop trail through woods on a ridge above Spring Creek, which can be included as an addition to the Flume Trail or simply hiked on its own.

See map on page 122.

Start: From the Boulder Hill Trailhead, located on FR 358 (Boulder Hill Road).

Elevation gain: 4,557 to 4,720 feet.

Distance: 3.8-mile loop.

Difficulty: Easy.

Hiking time: 1 to 2 hours.

Seasons: Best from late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Mystic Ranger District, 8221 S. Highway 16, Rapid City, SD 57702; (605) 343-1567; www.fs.usda.gov/bhnf.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Forested trail.

Land status: Black Hills National Forest.

Nearest town: Rapid City, SD.

Other trail users: Hikers only.

Maps: Black Hills National Forest Map; BHNF Flume Trail Map No. 50; National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Map No. 751.

Finding the trailhead: Spring Creek Loop Trail is accessed from the Boulder Hill Trailhead. From Hill City take US Highway 16 east for 12 miles and turn left on County Road 233 (Silver Mountain Road). After only 0.1 mile, turn left onto FR 358 (Boulder Hill Road). Follow this dirt road for 2.3 miles to the trailhead parking lot. If you are hiking counterclockwise, the Spring Creek Loop starts on the east side of the parking lot. GPS: N43 58.134' / W103 23.922'

The Hike

Part of the Flume National Recreation Trail, Spring Creek Loop Trail is marked by silver diamonds with the #50. The path is marked for foot travel only.

From the trailhead parking lot, we hiked counterclockwise, following the silver diamonds for Spring Creek Loop to the north. Do not confuse the Spring Creek Loop trail with the portion of the Flume Trail that leads to Boulder Hill (these two trails start directly next to each other). A comfortable, wide forest path, the Spring Creek Loop Trail meanders along a cliff edge and through stands of ponderosa pine.

Also while hiking along the trail, be sure to be on the lookout for rocky and wooden remnants of the old flume. After about 1.7 miles, the trail turns south. Continue walking south, following signs that say “foot travel only,” and you will soon cross the dirt FR 358. While on this section of the trail, you will enjoy wonderful views of Boulder Hill. The trail parallels the road for several hundred yards, crosses FR 358 once more, then returns to the trailhead.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the Boulder Hill Trailhead, along the Flume Trail #50. Head north, in a counterclockwise direction.

3.1 Cross FR 358.

3.7 Cross back over FR 358.

3.8 Reach the Boulder Hill Trailhead and completion of the loop.

Tall ponderosa pine trees line the majority of the Spring Creek Loop Trail.

37 Boulder Hill

A short but steep ascent to the top of a high, rocky outcropping, offering dramatic views.

See map on page 122.

Start: From the Boulder Hill Trailhead along the Flume Trail #50.

Elevation gain: 4,720 to 5,331 feet.

Distance: 3.2 miles out and back.

Difficulty: Strenuous due to a steep ascent over a short distance.

Hiking time: 1 to 2 hours.

Seasons: Best from late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Mystic Ranger District, 8221 S. Highway 16, Rapid City, SD 57702; (605) 343-1567; www.fs.usda.gov/bhnf.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Forested trail, dirt road, granite boulders.

Land status: Black Hills National Forest.

Nearest town: Rapid City, SD.

Other trail users: Hikers only.

Maps: Black Hills National Forest Map; BHNF Flume Trail Map No. 50; National Geographic/ Trails Illustrated Map No. 751.

Finding the trailhead: From Hill City take US Highway 16 east for 12 miles and turn left on County Road 233 (Silver Mountain Road). After only 0.1 mile, turn left onto FR 358 (Boulder Hill Road). Follow this dirt road for 2.3 miles to the trailhead parking lot. The trail to Boulder Hill is on the southeast side of the parking lot. Look for a small, narrow forested path with a sign that reads “To Boulder Hill.” GPS: N43 58.134' / W103 23.922'

The Hike

Boulder Hill is one of the special features found along the Flume Trail #50 and makes another nice side trip on the Flume Trail #50 hike—or a good jaunt just for its own sake. Located south of Spring Creek Loop and the Boulder Hill Trailhead, this short, steep spur hike is well worth the effort. Upon reaching the 5,331-foot summit, we agreed that it is a photographer’s dream.

A marker adjacent to the Spring Creek Loop Trail points the way around the base of Boulder Hill to the east side, where the narrow trail intersects old logging roads twice, and then ascends quite steeply for several hundred feet through the craggy rocks to the summit. Be on the lookout for an occasional person riding an ATV when the trail meets up with more distinct dirt roads. Because forest roads surround Boulder Hill, getting lost is difficult; be sure to look for trail markings (silver diamonds with the #50) and refer to the Miles and Directions below. From the peak, the sensational 360-degree vistas include the Badlands, rolling prairies, the Needles formations, and Black Elk Peak.

View from the top of Boulder Hill.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the Boulder Hill Trailhead; the trail leading to the hill is on the southeast side of the parking lot.

0.7 Turn right off the main Flume Trail and follow signs to Boulder Hill.

0.9 Turn right at the Boulder Hill junction; the trail narrows.

1.3 The trail winds right, then left on an old road, then turns right again on a narrow, rocky path.

1.6 Arrive at the summit.

3.2 Carefully retrace your steps back to the trailhead parking lot.

Wind Cave National Part

Late one July afternoon we sat on Boland Ridge looking out over a broad expanse of land known as the Red Valley. Below us in the distance, large black dots quickly assumed the distinct and recognizable forms of bison. Mating season was at its height, and several of the bulls had not yet determined their order of dominance. They were angry and were fighting in earnest.

Raising our binoculars, we watched as two gigantic bulls galloped side by side. Suddenly one of them stopped and wheeled. The two collided, but with no apparent ill effect. Red dust rose around the two, as they began raking one another with their daggerlike horns. Within a minute, the battle was over. Just what these two giants had concluded was unclear, but for no apparent reason the fighting ceased and the two began grazing in the tall prairie grasses, seemingly oblivious to one another.

We sat on the ridge watching for more than an hour as similar battles continued. Then, with little warning, a violent afternoon storm blew in. The wind, rain, and hail lasted for ten minutes. When it ended, only the hushed breath of the prairie breeze stirred the grasses. Not a single bison dotted the landscape, and the silence was immense. Seldom had we been more moved by the utter magnificence of nature—the staggering beauty of the prairie and its life, which we were to experience over and over as we hiked the trails of Wind Cave National Park.

Wind Cave dates back 320 million years, making it one of the world’s oldest caves. The cave system contains fascinating and rare formations. Inside this cave, viewers are presented with sights of rare beauty. Wind Cave has one of the largest displays of boxwork: a fragile lattice formation made of calcite that adorns the cave walls and ceilings. Other rare formations contained in the cave include frostwork, popcorn, and helictite bushes, whose names are suggestive of their looks.

Pahasapa Limestone provides the basis for these formations created by the action of water on soft rock over millions of years. The waters that seeped into the cave did not flow through but sat stagnant, aiding in the dissolving of Wind Cave’s limestone into many passageways.

Wind Cave is a sacred place to Native American nations such as the Cheyenne and the Lakota. One Lakota oral tradition tells an emergence story about the creation of the Lakota people inside the cave (underground), who were eventually instructed by the Creator to emerge to the surface of the Earth.

The first documented people to locate the cave were the brothers Jesse and Tom Bingham, who in 1881 heard strange whistling sounds emanating from the Earth. The sounds drew them to the hole, which they then showed to others. Years later, regular public tours began, which visited many of the same rooms viewed by tour groups today. On one wall in the Garden of Eden section of the cave, explorers left their signatures adjacent to the date “8-17-1892.” The writing remains as part of the cave’s history. In the one-hundred-plus years since the cave’s discovery, cavers have explored and mapped more than 150 miles of the cave’s complex system. Park staff estimate that the figure represents only 5 percent of the total cave and that literally hundreds of miles remain uncharted. Barometric pressure affects the intake or outflow of air from the cave. The flow creates the steady whistling noises that attracted the Binghams.

View of Buffalo Gap from the top of Rankin Ridge.

Recognizing the cave’s extraordinary features—as well as the extraordinarily beautiful prairie ecosystem above it—Congress sought protection of the Wind Cave complex, and in 1903 Wind Cave became a national park. Groups of cave enthusiasts called “grottos,” with park permission and permits, explore and map uncharted sections of the cave. Visitors may take one of the park-provided, year-round cave tours, led by park personnel.

Though the park is better known for its miles of explored underground passages, park visitors can also explore Wind Cave above the ground, in one of the nation’s lushest and most pristine prairie grasslands. Here exists an incredible prairie ecosystem and ponderosa pine forest that includes a diverse mix of wildlife roaming freely throughout the park’s 33,971 acres. Because motorized vehicles and mountain bikes are confined to the park’s roads, hikers who venture onto the park’s 30-plus miles of trails are generally rewarded with unparalleled sightings of wildlife.

Wind Cave National Park offers eleven maintained trails, three of which are interpretive self-guided trails. You also can combine several trails to make nice, logistically workable loops. With the exception of the Boland Ridge Trail, none of the hikes in this area is very steep. Several of the longer hikes in Wind Cave National Park require effort simply because the trails wind through the prairie lands for several miles and are at times faint.

If you find yourself lost on one of these routes, hike to a high point and search for landmarks such as a fire tower or nearby road. One park ranger says that because landmarks are generally visible, Wind Cave National Park provides an excellent setting to refine map-reading skills. Triangulate from the landmark to pinpoint your location and the lost trail. Anticipate confusion by allowing for additional time afield, and remember to carry the following:

More water than you think you will need (and on some summer days it still might not be enough). For a full day’s outing in the summer, carry 1 gallon per person.

Binoculars.

Compass and topo map. National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 238 contains all park trails.

Hat and sunscreen.

Sturdy boots.

Tick and bug spray in spring and summer.

One final suggestion for summertime prairie hiking: Start early, not only to avoid the heat, but also to see the park’s wild animals. Bison roam freely within the park’s boundaries. With the exceptions of the Elk Mountain and Prairie Vista Nature Trails, you will most likely encounter bison along many of the park’s trails. Remember to keep your distance and detour around bison to resume your hike. Also, be on the lookout for prairie dog holes and rattlesnakes. Check yourself for ticks after hikes. Poison ivy can be found along creeks and wearing long pants is recommended, especially when hiking along Beaver Creek.

Wind Cave National Park is located in the southeast corner of the Black Hills, adjacent to Custer State Park on its north boundary. If in Custer State Park, you can take SD Highway 87 south to reach Wind Cave, or if in the city of Custer, take

US Highway 385 south, which also will lead you to the park. Hot Springs is a town located in the southwest corner of South Dakota, from which you can easily reach Wind Cave National Park. Travelers from Nebraska should take US 385 northbound through Hot Springs and on into the park. Travelers from Rapid City should follow SD 79 southward for about 50 miles to US Highway 18 west into Hot Springs, then follow US 385 to Wind Cave.

The trails in Wind Cave are all named and numbered. The park charges no entry fee but there are fees for cave tours.

Note: At the time of publication, Wind Cave National Park was in the process of expanding its boundaries to the southeast, with the possibility of new hiking trails being created in that area. Inquire at the park’s visitor center for the most up-to-date information on this project.

The pasqueflower is the official flower of South Dakota and can be seen along the trails in Wind Cave in spring and early summer.

38 Cold Brook Canyon Trail

A scenic meander through a tallgrass prairie valley that simultaneously explores a canyon in the southwest section of Wind Cave National Park.

Start: At the trailhead 2 miles south of the visitor center on US Highway 385.

Elevation gain: 4,122 to 4,245 feet.

Distance: 2.8 miles out and back.

Difficulty: Easy.

Hiking time: 1 to 2 hours.

Seasons: Best late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Wind Cave National Park, 26611 US Highway 385, Hot Springs, SD 57747; (605) 745-4600; www.nps.gov/wica.

Dog-friendly: Dogs not allowed.

Trail surface: Dirt road, dirt path.

Land status: Wind Cave National Park.

Nearest town: Hot Springs, SD.

Other trail users: Hikers only.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 238; Wind Cave National Park brochure; Black Hills National Forest Map.

Finding the trailhead: The trail begins 2 miles south of the visitor center on US 385, on the west side of the road. GPS: N43 32.130' / W103 29.887'

The Hike

This trail is marked #1 on wayfinding posts and begins along an old road that gently descends into a tallgrass prairie valley flanked on one side by a small ridge of ponderosa. The well-marked trail is often frequented by bison—sometimes in summer, by lone males in rut. Be alert for them and also for rattlesnakes.

The trail proceeds west; shortly the limestone canyon narrows and is further compressed by rock formations that play host to a variety of avian species, including prairie falcons. The trail concludes at a sturdy fence that helps mark the park’s western boundary.

The ease of the hike and the abundance and variety of prairie grasses and birdlife combine to make this trail particularly appropriate for family outings.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the Cold Brook Canyon Trailhead along US Hwy 385.

1.4 Reach the western boundary fence of the national park; turn around.

2.8 Retrace your steps and return to trailhead.

39 Wind Cave Canyon Trail

A walk through Wind Cave Canyon, ending at the park boundary fence on the eastern side.

See map on page 134.

Start: From the trailhead on the east side of US Highway 385, 1 mile north of the southern park road that leads to the visitor center.

Elevation gain: 3,818 to 4,018 feet.

Distance: 3.6 miles out and back.

Difficulty: Easy.

Hiking time: 1 to 3 hours.

Seasons: Best from spring through fall.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Wind Cave National Park, 26611 US Highway 385, Hot Springs, SD 57747; (605) 7454600; www.nps.gov/wica.

Dog-friendly: Dogs not allowed.

Trail surface: Gravel road.

Land status: Wind Cave National Park.

Nearest town: Hot Springs, SD.

Other trail users: Hikers only.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 238; Wind Cave National Park brochure; Black Hills National Forest Map.

Finding the trailhead: This trail is located on the east side of US 385, 1 mile north of the southern park road that leads to the visitor center. Wind Cave Canyon Trail is also an access trail for two other trails, namely, East Bison Flats Trail and the Highland Creek Trail. GPS: N43 33.287' / W103 27.995'

The Hike

Wind Cave National Park rangers say this trail (marked as Trail #2) is an exceptionally good one for birding, since the abundant sandstone cliffs provide nesting grounds for several species, including the great horned owl. Also be on the lookout for woodpeckers and wild turkeys. The East Bison Flats and Highland Creek trails can also be accessed from this trail after 0.5 mile and 1.2 miles, respectively.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Begin at the trailhead parking lot along US Highway 385.

1.8 Reach the eastern boundary fence of the national park; turn around.

3.6 Hike back on the road to the trailhead.

40 Lookout Point–Centennial Trail Loop

A loop hike that offers a chance to examine both prairie and riparian habitats.

See map on page 134.

Start: At the Lookout Point/Centennial Trail-head (they are one and the same) off South Dakota Highway 87.

Elevation gain: 3,998 to 4,357 feet.

Distance: 4.8-mile loop.

Difficulty: Moderate.

Hiking time: 2 to 4 hours.

Seasons: Best from spring through fall.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Wind Cave National Park, 26611 US Highway 385, Hot Springs, SD 57747; (605) 745-4600; www.nps.gov/wica.

Dog-friendly: Dogs not allowed.

Trail surface: Dirt path.

Land status: Wind Cave National Park.

Nearest town: Hot Springs, SD.

Other trail users: Hikers only.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 238; Wind Cave National Park brochure; Black Hills National Forest Map.

Finding the trailhead: To access the trailhead from the visitor center, drive north for 1.4 miles on US Highway 385 to its intersection with SD 87; turn right. Continue 0.6 mile along SD 87 to the Lookout Point/Centennial Trail Trailhead, which is marked distinctly. GPS: N43 34.885' / W103 29.028'

Few trails in the Black Hills offer the opportunity to view both a pristine prairie and a riparian ecosystem. The trail is easy with only a few ascents and descents, but some may at times categorize the trail as moderate because of the fourteen stream crossings, some of which must sometimes be made without the help of logs. Park rangers have placed flattened logs over several of the streams to facilitate crossings.

The trail, first marked #4 (Lookout Point Trail) on wayfinding posts, begins by descending to Cold Spring Creek and crosses it three times. The trail then gently rises onto a tallgrass prairie ecosystem, characterized by a variety of grasses. In summer the prairie may show a beautiful progression of wildflowers. After 1.5 miles of easy walking, the trail reaches its high point near Lookout Point, elevation 4,403 feet. The trail does not lead directly to Lookout Point, but it is just a short jaunt to your right.

From here the trail gently descends and cuts through the northern end of Prairie Dog Canyon. Abundant evidence demonstrates just how these small rodents, acting in concert, can drastically alter the prairie to meet their own requirements. Because prairie dogs must rely for survival on defensive strategies, they have cut the grass to improve their vistas. The changes attract other wildlife species such as bison, coyotes, and rattlesnakes. Be forewarned! One park ranger who frequently hikes Wind Cave trails says that he must regularly modify his route to avoid a dangerously close encounter with bison.

A lone bison wanders near the Lookout Point Trailhead.

At the trail juncture with the Highland Creek Trail (this trail comes in from the south or your right), you should stay left or backtrack on the Lookout Point Trail. If you elect to complete the loop, 2.6 miles of walking remain. From the junction the trail descends to Beaver Creek. As it does, the vegetation changes abruptly to ponderosa pine.

Once you reach Beaver Creek, proceed west (left) and be aware that the trail crosses the stream eleven times on its way back to the trailhead. About 0.5 mile later, the trail joins the Centennial Trail (Trail #6), which you will take to the west, or your left. Dry-footed crossings may require imagination and enterprise, particularly following heavy rains.

The hike along Beaver Creek offers views of variegated rock bluffs, some a brilliant orange. High caves cut into the bluffs, and trees that have somehow established a toehold stand as sentinels at the entrances to some of these high rock cuts. Along the stream proper, footprints of hikers mingle with those of bison and deer.

As the trail nears its end, waters from Cold Spring Creek merge with those of Beaver Creek, which continues its eastern trend. Near the terminus the trail ascends and shortly concludes at the Lookout Point/Centennial Trailhead.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the Lookout Point/Centennial Trailhead on SD 87.

1.5 The trail reaches its highest elevation near Lookout Point, on your right.

2.2 At the Lookout Point/Highland Creek Trail junction, stay northeast (left) on Lookout Point Trail.

2.8 Reach Beaver Creek, head west (left).

3.3 At the junction with Centennial Trail, keep heading west (left) onto the Centennial Trail.

4.8 The end of the loop at the Lookout Point/Centennial Trailhead.

41 Highland Creek–Sanctuary–Centennial Loop

A loop hike that combines three trails through an area of immense, diverse beauty.

See map on page 134.

Start: From the Highland Creek Trailhead on NPS Road 5, 2.7 miles east of South Dakota Highway 87.

Elevation gain: 4,081 to 4,454 feet.

Distance: 7.8-mile loop.

Difficulty: Easy to moderate.

Hiking time: Plan on most of a day.

Seasons: Best from spring through fall.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Wind Cave National Park, 26611 US Highway 385, Hot Springs, SD 57747; (605) 745-4600; www.nps.gov/wica.

Land status: Wind Cave National Park.

Nearest town: Hot Springs, SD.

Other trail users: Hikers only.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 238; Wind Cave National Park brochure; Black Hills National Forest Map.

Finding the trailhead: Take US Highway 385 north from the Wind Cave National Park Visitor Center, then follow SD 87 north for 7 miles to an NPS 5 road sign on the right. The Centennial Trail Trailhead is 1.3 miles in on the right. The Highland Creek Trailhead is about 1 mile farther, also on the right.

We suggest leaving your vehicle at the Highland Creek parking lot and beginning the loop hike there. The trail concludes at the Centennial Trailhead, from where you must walk an additional 1.3 miles back to the vehicle, or use a two vehicle system. GPS: N43 37.344' / W103 25.271'

The Hike

This loop option is a relatively flat trail, meandering through the tallgrass prairie. Throughout, the trail offers scenic vistas of the Black Hills. The final miles pass over a forest trail. Be sure to watch out for the waymarking posts as you hike. The Highland Creek Trail is marked #7, Sanctuary Trail #5, and Centennial Trail #6.

The hike begins on a tallgrass prairie plateau that offers panoramic views. As the trail proceeds clockwise, it parallels Rankin Ridge and is separated by about a mile from the Red Valley to the east. Sharp-tailed grouse are abundant in the high grasslands, and more than one hiker has been unnerved by the flurry of wings that suddenly erupts as feet and bird almost collide.

As the trail descends from the trailhead, you will find yourself suddenly in the midst of a huge prairie dog town where incessant chirping fills the air.

As you ascend the next plateau, Rankin Ridge Fire Tower is clearly visible straight in front of you.

Trail markers will soon lead you to this trail’s intersection with the Sanctuary Trail. Take this trail to the right (west) then remain on Sanctuary, which proceeds northwest for about 1.4 miles until it intersects with the Centennial Trail. Bison wallows and muddy water holes are numerous, as are bison. Here you enter a beautiful broad valley. Take time to sit quietly and observe another prairie dog town that, like the others, is often frequented by bison, antelope, deer, and coyotes.

The trail drops to the valley floor where it intersects with the Centennial Trail. Follow this to the right, in a northeasterly direction, where it enters a forest. The remainder of the hike is well marked. At trail’s end, continue walking 1.3 miles to retrieve your vehicle.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the Highland Creek Trailhead, going south.

1.9 Look for a trail marker on top of a hill.

3.3 Follow the Sanctuary Trail northwest (to the right) at the junction.

4.7 Follow the Centennial Trail to the northeast (right) at the junction.

6.5 Reach the Centennial Trail Trailhead and dirt road.

7.8 This is the end of 1.3-mile walk to the east (to vehicle) and the Highland Creek Trailhead.

42 Boland Ridge Trail

A one-way trek over Boland Ridge, terminating at the park boundary fence.

See map on page 134.

Start: At the Boland Ridge Trailhead on NPS Road 6.

Elevation gain: 3,680 to 4,080 feet.

Distance: 4.8 miles out and back.

Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous due to continuous elevation gain.

Hiking time: 2 to 4 hours.

Seasons: Best from spring through fall.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Wind Cave National Park, 26611 US Highway 385, Hot Springs, SD 57747; (605) 745-4600; www.nps.gov/wica.

Dog-friendly: Dogs not allowed.

Trail surface: Dirt road/path.

Land status: Wind Cave National Park.

Nearest town: Hot Springs, SD.

Other trail users: Hikers only.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 238; Wind Cave National Park brochure; Black Hills National Forest Map.

Finding the trailhead: Take US Highway 385 north from the park’s visitor center to SD 87. Follow SD 87 north for 7 miles to the NPS 5 road sign on the right. Proceed on NPS 5 for 6.4 miles, taking the first dirt road on the left (NPS 6). Go 0.8 mile to the trailhead parking lot, on the right. GPS: N43 35.477' / W103 22.900'

The Hike

The trail mostly traverses gullies and the ridges of Boland Ridge in the Red Valley. Wonderful vistas are offered of the valley, the prairies, and, on clear days, Badlands National Park to the east.

This moderately strenuous hike begins by following a faint dirt road in the tall-grass prairie. Just after beginning the hike, you must cross a tiny creek, which might be dry in times of drought. On our late-July hike, the creek was narrow but flowing freely. Whether or not the creek is present depends on weather patterns.

After crossing a meadow, ascend the first ridge of Boland, still on the old, unused road. The trail is well marked with the #8 on sturdy posts, but some markers may sometimes be difficult to see in the high grass. The trail follows an easterly and slightly northeast direction and soon encounters another meadow, alive in summer with vibrant wildflowers. Continue along a series of rolling ups and downs as the trail bisects Boland Ridge. Each ascent offers a different perspective. After the last major descent, the trail terminates at the park’s boundary fence. Now you must retrace your steps.

This area is prime bison habitat (as we discovered that day), and the many gullies easily hide the huge beasts. At times they seem to appear out of nowhere like huge dark shadows. On the day we were there, the majority of the Wind Cave herd had migrated to this area and was in the midst of the age-old annual mating cycle. The noise alone was alarming and could be heard a mile away, sometimes carrying a sound reminiscent of a lion’s unthrottled roar. An unexpected prairie hailstorm broke our observation and sent us scurrying for shelter. It also stampeded the herd.

Many trails such as this one in Wind Cave are easily bushwhacked. From Boland Ridge Trail, roads are visible from the ridges and one could hike along the top of Boland Ridge. As always, carry water, a topo map, and a compass to enhance hiking pleasure, comfort, and safety.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the Boland Ridge Trailhead on NPS Road 6.

0.1 Cross creek and head in a northeasterly direction; look for trail markers.

2.4 Reach the end of the trail near the park’s eastern boundary fence; turn around and retrace your steps to trailhead.

4.8 Arrive back at the trailhead parking lot.

43 Rankin Ridge Nature Trail

A short interpretive loop trail that ascends through ponderosa pine forest, providing vistas of Wind Cave National Park and its immense surroundings.

See map on page 134.

Start: From the Rankin Ridge parking lot off South Dakota Highway 87.

Elevation gain: 4,750 to 5,013 feet.

Distance: 1-mile loop.

Difficulty: Moderate.

Hiking time: 30 minutes to 1 hour.

Seasons: Best from spring through fall.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Wind Cave National Park, 26611 US Highway 385, Hot Springs, SD 57747; (605) 745-4600; www.nps.gov/wica.

Dog-friendly: Dogs not allowed.

Trail surface: Forested trail, dirt road.

Land status: Wind Cave National Park.

Nearest town: Hot Springs, SD.

Other trail users: Hikers only.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 238; Wind Cave National Park brochure; Black Hills National Forest Map.

Finding the trailhead: Take US Highway 385 north from the park’s visitor center to SD 87. Take SD 87 north for about 5 miles to the sign and the road for the fire tower, which is on the right. The Rankin Ridge Trailhead is located at the parking lot at the end of this road. GPS: N43 37.369' / W103 29.150'

The Hike

This short trail provides a delightful climb up Rankin Ridge to see sweeping views. From the ridge the view suggests immense geological phenomena to the east. Red Valley (Spearfish Formation) cuts a spectacular swath through the foreground, while the Hogback Ridge (Lakota Formation), with Buffalo Gap, suggests a ring engulfing the Black Hills, as described in the introduction of this book. The Badlands to the east shimmer in the distance. The trail is well interpreted, and the park provides a booklet (available at the trailhead and visitor center) for the fourteen interpreted stops.

Following the park’s suggested route, the trail begins on a northerly aspect (clockwise). Along the way, log benches provide opportunities to rest and further explore the panorama sweeping before you. Bring your binoculars.

Approximately 0.5 mile from the trailhead, hikers reach the fire tower (now closed to the public). A 0.5-mile descent on a dirt road passes through a ponderosa pine forest and returns you to the parking lot.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the trailhead parking lot off SD 87, hiking clockwise.

0.5 Reach the fire tower.

1.0 A 0.5-mile descent brings you back to the trailhead.

44 Elk Mountain Nature Trail

A fun, informative loop hike suitable for the entire family.

See map on page 134.

Start: At the Elk Mountain Campground, about 1 mile northwest of the visitor center.

Elevation gain: 4,281 to 4,354 feet.

Distance: 0.8-mile loop.

Difficulty: Easy.

Hiking time: 30 minutes to 1 hour

Seasons: Best from spring through fall.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Wind Cave National Park, 26611 US Highway 385, Hot Springs, SD 57747; (605) 745-4600; www.nps.gov/wica.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Dirt path.

Land status: Wind Cave National Park.

Nearest town: Hot Springs, SD.

Other trail users: Hikers only.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 238; Wind Cave National Park brochure; Black Hills National Forest Map.

Finding the trailhead: The trail is located at Elk Mountain Campground (the only designated campground in Wind Cave National Park), which is about 1 mile northwest of the park’s visitor center. The trailhead is opposite the campground’s outdoor amphitheater. GPS: N43 33.949' / W103 29.742'

The Hike

Following the path counterclockwise, it winds slightly upward through a prairie environment. It then enters the ponderosa pine forest, where remains of a previous wildfire linger. The interpretive booklet greatly enhances the walk, which has nine interpretive stops with information about the area’s geology, wildlife, trees, and the park’s use of prescribed burns. Leashed pets are permitted on this trail.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the trailhead parking lot in the Elk Mountain Campground, hiking counterclockwise.

0.8 After looping around the perimeter of the campground, the trail returns to the parking lot.

45 Prairie Vista Nature Trail

A short stroll through the prairie grasslands near the park visitor center.

See map on page 134.

Start: At the picnic area just north of the visitor center.

Elevation gain: 4,102 to 4,284 feet.

Distance: 0.7-mile loop.

Difficulty: Easy.

Hiking time: 30 minutes to 1 hour

Seasons: Best from spring through fall.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Wind Cave National Park, 26611 US Highway 385, Hot Springs, SD 57747; (605) 745-4600; www.nps.gov./wica.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Dirt path.

Land status: Wind Cave National Park.

Nearest town: Hot Springs, SD.

Other trail users: Hikers only.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 238; Wind Cave National Park brochure.

Finding the trailhead: At the picnic area just north of the park visitor center. GPS: N43 33.544' / W103 28.694'

The Prairie Vista Nature Trail is a fun excursion for the entire family.

The Hike

As you follow the path clockwise, this family-friendly trail ascends a small hill. Several interpretive panels along the trail explain the history of the area and Wind Cave. After overlooking the park visitor center, the trail descends to the natural entrance area. At the end of the descent, there is a trail split. Turn left to go to the natural entrance area of the cave and the visitor center or go right to return to the picnic area. Leashed pets are permitted on this trail when starting and ending at the picnic area.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the picnic area just north of the park’s visitor center, hiking clockwise.

0.6 Reach a trail split: going left will bring you to the natural entrance area and the visitor center, right will lead back to the picnic area.

0.7 The trail returns to the picnic area.

Jewel Cave National Monument

Currently, Jewel Cave is recognized as the third longest cave in the world, with over 200 miles of mapped passageways. The cave began to form approximately 10 to 50 million years ago in the Pahasapa Limestone in the southwestern portion of the Black Hills. Evidence suggests that the cave contains thousands of miles of passageways that have yet to be explored, leading some to believe that it may connect with Wind Cave to the southeast. Unique cave formations such as dogtooth spar, draperies, frostwork, and gypsum flowers can be found inside the cave.

The Jewel Cave area has numerous limestone canyons to explore.

In 1900, two prospectors from the Black Hills area heard an interesting sound that they discovered was coming from a small hole in Hell Canyon. The pair decided to use dynamite to enlarge the opening and found themselves inside a cave surrounded by calcite crystals, leading to the name Jewel Cave.

On February 7, 1908, President Theodore Roosevelt proclaimed Jewel Cave a national monument, and the National Park Service began solely operating cave tours in 1939. Today, visitors can choose from four different cave tours ranging from easy to strenuous. For the most adventurous, you may choose to go on the Wild Caving Tour, a 3-to-4-hour crawling trek with full caving gear.

Jewel Cave National Monument maintains two hiking trails within its boundary: the Roof Trail and the Canyons Trail. The Hell Canyon Trail is located across US Highway 16 from the monument and is a part of Black Hills National Forest. Much of the Hell Canyon Trail was once within the original boundaries of Jewel Cave National Monument, but as more cave passageways were discovered to the southeast, the two agencies agreed to a land swap in 1965. When hiking these trails, be on the lookout for spring and summer wildflowers, songbirds, and animals such as bighorn sheep, deer, and elk.

Jewel Cave is located 13 miles west of Custer, South Dakota, or 24 miles east of Newcastle, Wyoming, on US Highway 16. There is no fee to hike the surface trails at Jewel Cave National Monument but there are fees for cave tours.

46 Roof Trail

An easy forested walk that features an overlook of the southwestern Black Hills.

Start: At the trailhead behind the visitor center.

Elevation gain: 5,346 to 5,447 feet.

Distance: 0.4-mile loop.

Difficulty: Easy.

Hiking time: About 30 minutes.

Seasons: Best spring through fall.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Jewel Cave National Monument, 11149 US Highway 16, Building B12, Custer, SD 57730; (605) 673-8300; www.nps.gov/jeca.

Dog-friendly: Dogs not allowed.

Trail surface: Forested trail.

Land status: Jewel Cave National Monument.

Nearest town: Custer, SD.

Other trail users: Hikers only.

Maps: Jewel Cave National Monument brochure.

Finding the trailhead: From the city of Custer, head west on US Highway 16 for about 13 miles to Jewel Cave National Monument, on the left. The trail begins behind the main visitor center. GPS: N43 43.776' / W103 49.759'

The Hike

This short loop hike is suitable for the entire family. The trail begins behind the monument’s main visitor center and immediately leads to an overlook. From the observation deck, you can see Hell Canyon and the remnants of the Jasper Fire that occurred in August 2000. From here, continue the loop by following the signs for the Roof Trail, which leads back to the north side of the visitor center.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the trailhead behind the park’s visitor center.

0.1 Reach the observation deck.

0.4 The trail loops around and returns to the north side of the visitor center.

47 Canyons Trail

A loop hike around the monument that explores Lithograph and Hell Canyons, as well as the historic entrance area of the cave.

See map on page 150.

Start: At the trailhead behind the visitor center. You will be starting on the Roof Trail.

Elevation gain: 5,113 to 5,500 feet.

Distance: 3.6-mile loop.

Difficulty: Moderate due to numerous ascents and descents.

Hiking time: 11/2 to 3 hours.

Seasons: Best late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Jewel Cave National Monument, 11149 US Highway 16, Building B12, Custer, SD 57730; (605) 673-8300; www.nps.gov/jeca.

Dog-friendly: Dogs not allowed.

Trail surface: Forested trail, gravel road, dirt path.

Land status: Jewel Cave National Monument.

Nearest town: Custer, SD.

Other trail users: Hikers only.

Maps: Jewel Cave National Monument brochure.

Finding the trailhead: From the city of Custer, head west on US Highway 16 for about 13 miles to Jewel Cave National Monument, on the left. The trail begins behind the main visitor center. GPS: N43 43.776' / W103 49.759'

The Hike

The hike begins on the Roof Trail behind the park’s main visitor center. After only 0.1 mile, take a sharp left (south) onto the Canyons Trail. The trail descends rapidly into Lithograph Canyon and to a park service gravel road; make sure to turn right (west) at this junction, and the trail will soon head in a southerly direction. After hiking 0.4 mile on the road, you will come to where Lithograph Canyon meets Hell Canyon.

From this spot, turn right (west) onto an old grassy road into Hell Canyon. This section of the trail does not have any forest cover, as this area was burned in the Jasper Fire in the year 2000. In summer months, this segment of the trail can make for a very hot outing, so make sure to bring plenty of water, a hat, and sunscreen. The trail gently ascends through the canyon, and the canyon walls narrow on each side as you hike farther.

After 2.5 miles, the trail begins a steep ascent to the Historic Area of Jewel Cave. This area was originally used for cave tours, and you pass by the historic entrance of the cave. The final section of the trail continues ascending back to connect with the Roof Trail near the north side of the visitor center.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Begin at the trailhead behind the visitor center; you will be starting on the Roof Trail.

0.1 Sharp left (south) onto Canyons Trail.

0.4 Right (west) on gravel road. You are now in Lithograph Canyon.

0.8 Right (west) on grassy road; enter Hell Canyon.

2.5 Begin ascent up to the Historic Area.

3.5 Connect with Roof Trail, which leads back to the visitor center.

3.6 Return to visitor center.

48 Hell Canyon Trail

A scenic loop hike that explores both the upper portion and bottom of Hell Canyon.

See map on page 150.

Start: At the trailhead approximately 14 miles west of the city of Custer on US Highway 16 and across the road from Jewel Cave National Monument.

Elevation gain: 5,289 to 5,797 feet.

Distance: 5.7-mile loop (including spur trail to overlook).

Difficulty: Moderate due to an initial steep elevation gain.

Hiking time: 2 to 4 hours.

Seasons: Best late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Hell Canyon Ranger District, 1019 N 5th St., Custer, SD 57730; (605) 673-9200; www.fs.usda.gov/bhnf.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Rocky dirt path, dirt road.

Land status: Black Hills National Forest.

Nearest town: Custer, SD.

Other trail users: Horseback riders, mountain bikers.

Maps: Black Hills National Forest Map; BHNF Hell Canyon Trail Map No. 32; National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 238.

Finding the trailhead: From the city of Custer, head west on US Highway 16 for about 14 miles to the trailhead parking lot, on the right. GPS: N43 44.297' / W103 50.733'

The Hike

The Hell Canyon Trail is one of the most diverse hikes in the entire Black Hills region. The Jasper Fire in the year 2000 was the largest wildfire in the Black Hills to date; it burned more than 80,000 acres in and around the canyon. However, this allowed for regrowth to occur in this area, and along the hike, you will see evidence of both the wildfire and new vegetation.

As you hike clockwise, the trail begins with a 400-foot elevation gain to the top of the canyon. After hiking for less than a mile, you reach the spur trail that leads to a scenic overlook of the canyon to the north and the distant plains to the south. Return to the loop; the trail proceeds north and winds its way along the limestone canyon walls.

After 3.1 miles, the trail descends to the bottom of the forested canyon, where you will pass a spring box in the creek as well as evidence of an old Civilian Conservation Corp camp. The final portion of the trail includes seven stream crossings, which may be either dry or high water crossings depending on the season and recent rainfall.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the Hell Canyon Trailhead, hiking clockwise.

0.7 Reach the spur trail; proceed to overlook.

0.9 End of spur trail; turn around and retrace your steps.

1.1 Return to loop trail, keep right (northwest).

1.3 Keep right (north) at the junction with an old road.

3.1 Begin descent to canyon floor.

4.8 Reach the spring box.

5.7 Return to trailhead parking lot.

You will see the remnants of the Jasper Fire along the Hell Canyon Trail.

Badlands National Park

The Lakota call the Badlands Mako Sica, which means “land that is bad.” The French trappers who traveled the region in the early 1800s arrived at a similar designation, calling them the mauvaises terres à traverser, or “bad lands to travel across.” Badlands geology began with the encroachment of oceans millions of years ago. Over eons, these waters deposited many sediments. Approximately 38 million years ago, ash from volcanic activity in what is now Colorado landed in much of the Great Plains and Black Hills region. This ash, mixed with other sediments from the Black Hills, was deposited throughout the area.

Streams and rivers flowed from the evolving mountains, carrying with them some of the sediments deposited by ancient seas. Eventually these sandstones, banded clays, and limestones were redeposited in what came to be known as the White River Badlands, named for one of the rivers that transported a portion of these materials. Erosional forces then acted on these soft sediments, creating some of the nation’s most spectacular formations.

Today the landscape assumes many forms, all of which are related to the hardness of the sedimentary deposits and to the manner in which wind, rain, snow, and ice act on them. Only the most hardened sandstones remain, in a variety of shapes. Some appear as great castles and pyramids, others as fluted spires and mushroom-shaped rocks. When explorers, scientists, visitors, and hikers walked the land, they found these bizarre shapes fantastic as time added more dimension to them.

Here, too, were the fossilized remains of three-toed horses, prehistoric rhinos and pigs, saber-toothed cats, and an abundance of sea life. Today the 244,300 acres of the White River Badlands serve as a hiker’s paradise, since the formations, with their spires and gullies, invite exploration. You will be seeing the largest protected mixed-grass prairie in the United States, with 64,250 acres of wilderness. The Park Service maintains eight short trails in the badlands. In addition, adventurous souls have the opportunity to hike more freely in the backcountry (though it’s more ecologically considerate to stick to paths created by humans or bison). The wilderness areas are discussed later in this section.

The shorter, marked trails in Badlands National Park offer opportunities to experience most of the park’s geological oddities. With the exception of the Saddle Pass Trail, these are relatively easy and have no significant elevation gain. Combined, these trails require several hours of hiking time, and opportunities abound to study nature and capture the area’s beauty with your camera.

When hiking, please remember the badlands terrain is very fragile. Exercise caution and try to minimize damage by remaining on established paths. Dogs are not allowed on the trails. Maintain a wary eye for bison and snakes. And carry water, particularly in summer when hiking the longer trails. The Badlands contain no potable water; all must be carried in. Because summer temperatures can and often do exceed one hundred degrees, each person needs to carry about a gallon per day. For those contemplating extended trips, packing enough water presents the major obstacle.

The Badlands offer unique hiking opportunities.

Open fires are not allowed anywhere in the park so carry a backpack stove. The park does not issue backcountry permits; nevertheless, hikers are advised to stop at the Ben Reifel Visitor Center for weather and wildlife information. Purchase a topo map and discuss trip plans with a ranger. Though park personnel do not mandate registration for wilderness hiking, they do recommend that hikers log their intentions.

Badlands National Park has an open policy for hikers, meaning that there are no closed areas with the exception of black-footed-ferret reintroduction sites. Bikes and motorized vehicles are allowed on paved roads only; they are off-limits on all of the park’s trails as well as throughout the various wilderness areas. Expect high winds and brief but violent thunderstorms in the warmer months.

The Ben Reifel Visitor Center is located about 85 miles east of Rapid City off I-90 (exit 110) via South Dakota Highway 240 Loop Road from Wall, or 76 miles east of Rapid City via South Dakota Highway 44.

Another option is to continue east past Wall on I-90 to exit 131 (Cactus Flat). From there, take SD 240 south for 8 miles to the visitor center.

Badlands Wilderness Areas

For those interested in exploring the Badlands wilderness, the park offers several options that provide access. Badlands National Park encompasses the nation’s largest mixed-grass prairie wilderness, which hikers may roam at will. Leave the road behind

and explore the Sage Creek Wilderness Area, which extends over 64,250 acres, or trek the Stronghold and Palmer Creek Units within the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation.

Sage Creek Wilderness Area

From the Ben Reifel Visitor Center, take the Badlands Loop Road (SD 240) west for 22 miles to Sage Creek Rim Road, which comes in from the left. This is a gravel road that traverses the northern edge of the Sage Creek Wilderness. No marked trails exist in the wilderness areas, but half the fun results from striking out on your own.

The Sage Creek Campground is about 11 miles west from the SD 240 turnoff. There are no designated trails from the campground; however, a multitude of paths strike out from here. Most of the trails soon give out and hikers are on their own to wander at will in solitude and the land’s overwhelming beauty.

More than 1,000 bison call the Badlands home. Use extreme caution around these large mammals, especially during the rut season (July through September). Remember to keep your distance from bison. Learn more about safe distance recommendations at one of the park’s visitor centers.

About one-third of the Sage Creek Wilderness landscape consists of eroded and nearly barren badlands. The remainder of the park consists of a mixed-grass prairie ecosystem. Though hikers may see wildlife in most Badlands areas, the park’s remote wilderness tends to attract the largest wildlife concentrations. Look for coyotes, prairie dogs, sharp-tailed grouse, wild turkeys, eagles, rabbits, and hawks as well as for bison, pronghorn, mule deer, and bighorn sheep.

Stronghold and Palmer Creek Units

The Stronghold and Palmer Creek areas are within the Pine Ridge Reservation in the southwestern portion of Badlands National Park. The White River Visitor Center is located between the two near the junction of BIA Roads 27 and 2. Potential users should first inquire at the visitor center to determine prevailing conditions and which areas of the wilderness are accessible. Visitors must cross private land for most access; please be very respectful of private property, and ask about this at the visitor center.

The wilderness areas of Badlands National Park are intriguing because of the freedom they offer. Hikers can strike off in any direction. Wander through bluffs and prairie grass, or follow dry streambeds. In these areas, hikers can find solitude, peace, and a stark beauty found nowhere else.

Backpackers venturing into the wilderness are free to roam at will, camping anywhere, providing they are at least 0.5 mile off the road and not visible to traffic. Park officials also ask you to remember that others will follow your example and that you should help preserve the land by practicing zero-impact camping. Do not disturb any fossils or artifacts you might find, but do report any finds to park rangers.

49 Castle Trail

A prairie hike flanking the beautiful formations along the Badlands Wall.

Start: At the Castle Trail Trailhead across from the Door, Window, and Notch Trails on South Dakota Highway 240 (Badlands Loop Road).

Elevation gain: 2,603 to 2,677 feet.

Distance: 5.2 miles one way.

Difficulty: Easy.

Hiking time: 2 to 4 hours.

Seasons: Best late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: Park entrance fee.

Trail contact: Badlands National Park, 25216 Ben Reifel Road, Interior, SD 57750; (605) 433-5361; www.nps.gov/badl.

Dog-friendly: Dogs not allowed.

Trail surface: Dirt path.

Land status: Badlands National Park.

Nearest town: Wall, SD.

Other trail users: Hikers only.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 239, Badlands National Park brochure.

Special considerations: Consider using two vehicles, parking one at the eastern trailhead and one at the western.

Finding the trailhead: Take the Badlands Loop Road northeast from the Ben Reifel Visitor Center for approximately 2 miles to the eastern trailhead, located across the road from the Door, Window, and Notch Trails. GPS: N43 45.675' / W101 55.672'. The western terminus of the trail is 5 miles west of the visitor center on SD 240, across the road from the Fossil Exhibit Trail. GPS: N43 46.375' / W102 00.149'

The Hike

From the Notch and Window Trails access, the Castle Trail begins at an elevation of 2,603 feet and progresses through a native mixed-grass prairie while flanking a badlands formation known as the wall. Castle Trail is the longest of the park’s marked trails (marked with red metal posts) and is not heavily traveled. After 1.4 miles the trail crosses the Old Northeast Road and continues its generally westward course, passing through an assortment of unique formations. The trail ends across the road from the Fossil Exhibit Trail, 5 miles west of the visitor center. If you parked a second vehicle here, then you have completed the entire Castle Trail. If not, you must hike back to the eastern trailhead parking lot, which can be done by retracing your steps along the Castle Trail. (Option: Take a slight detour on the Medicine Root Loop Trail in the middle section of the hike, which connects back to the Castle Trail at the Old Northeast Road.)

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the eastern Castle Trail Trailhead.

1.4 Cross the Old Northeast Road.

3.2 Continue straight on Castle Trail through the intersection with Medicine Root Loop Trail.

5.2 The trail ends across the road from the Fossil Exhibit Trail.

50 Medicine Root Loop

A hike that offers a connecting loop within the Castle Trail.

See map on page 160.

Start: At the Castle Trail Trailhead across from the Door, Window, and Notch Trails on South Dakota Highway 240 (Badlands Loop Road).

Elevation gain: 2,603 to 2,653 feet.

Distance: 6.8-mile lollipop.

Difficulty: Easy.

Hiking time: 3 to 5 hours.

Seasons: Best from spring through fall.

Fees and permits: Park entrance fee.

Trail contact: Badlands National Park, 25216 Ben Reifel Road, Interior, SD 57750; (605) 433-5361; www.nps.gov/badl.

Dog-friendly: Dogs not allowed.

Trail surface: Dirt path.

Land status: Badlands National Park.

Nearest town: Wall, SD.

Other trail users: Hikers only.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 239; Badlands National Park brochure.

Finding the trailhead: Take the SD 240 Loop Road north from the Ben Reifel Visitor Center for approximately 2 miles to the trail’s parking area on the right. The trailhead is located across the road from the Door, Window, and Notch Trails. GPS: N43 45.675' / W101 55.672'

Unique badlands formations along the Castle Trail.

The Hike

The Medicine Root Loop Trail is a flat, easy walk along a narrow dirt path through the grassland area just north of the Castle Trail. As you walk along this plateau, grasslands sweep to the north while the jagged wall formations rise to the south. Other formations range from short, flat, sod-covered “tables” to lofty spires. Green metal posts are abundant and serve to distinguish the trail from game paths.

The area surrounding the trail is covered with cactus. Grasses hide prairie wild-flowers. Medicine Root derives its name from the numerous plants used here by Native Americans. Photo opportunities abound throughout.

You will begin on the Castle Trail, hike to Old Northeast Road, and then pick up the Medicine Root Loop Trail. The Medicine Root Trail ends at the junction of Saddle Pass and Castle Trails.

To complete the loop, take the Castle Trail (marked by signs) leading east. From this point the trail ambles along the base of the rock formations. The level trail is somewhat rocky but soon becomes a narrow dirt path.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the eastern Castle Trail Trailhead.

1.4 Cross the Old Northeast Road; keep right on Medicine Root Loop Trail.

3.6 Junction with Castle Trail; proceed east on Castle Trail.

5.4 Trail returns to Old Northeast Road.

6.8 Return to trailhead.

51 Cliff Shelf Nature Trail

An interpretive trail along an ancient cliff shelf that collapsed long ago from the imposing cliffs above.

See map on page 160.

Start: From the Cliff Shelf Trailhead 0.5 mile east of the Ben Reifel Visitor Center.

Elevation gain: 2,601 to 2,699 feet.

Distance: 0.5-mile loop.

Difficulty: Moderate.

Hiking time: About 30 minutes.

Seasons: Best from spring through fall.

Fees and permits: Park entrance fee.

Trail contact: Badlands National Park, 25216 Ben Reifel Road, Interior, SD 57750; (605) 433-5361; www.nps.gov/badl.

Dog-friendly: Dogs not allowed.

Trail surface: Boardwalk, dirt path.

Land status: Badlands National Park.

Nearest town: Wall, SD.

Other trail users: Hikers only.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 239; Badlands National Park brochure.

Finding the trailhead: The Cliff Shelf Nature Trail can be accessed from a point 0.5 mile east of the Ben Reifel Visitor Center on the Badlands Loop Road (SD 240). The parking lot is small and not suitable for cars towing trailers or any other type of large vehicle such as an RV. GPS: N43 45.029' / W101 55.863'

The Hike

Fascinating natural history stories exist here at the collapsed Cliff Shelf, which fell many years ago due to underground moisture creating slumps and landslides. The facts of the area are thoroughly explained by interpretive panels placed along the trail.

The trail undulates through a wooded prairie but is wide and has a stairway. A portion of the trail is barrier-free and thus wheelchair accessible. The park has provided several rest benches along the walk. You will be treated to wonderful views of the White River Valley.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the trailhead parking lot off SD 240, hiking counterclockwise.

0.2 Reach the trail’s highest elevation.

0.5 The trail loops back to the trailhead parking lot.

52 Saddle Pass Trail

A short and steep trail through a pass, following a path once used by early travelers. The Saddle Pass is impassable after rains and still slippery when at all wet.

See map on page 160.

Start: At the trailhead on the Badlands Loop Road (South Dakota Highway 240), 2 miles west of the Ben Reifel Visitor Center.

Elevation gain: 2,411 to 2,641 feet.

Distance: 0.6 mile out and back.

Difficulty: Strenuous.

Hiking time: About 45 minutes.

Seasons: Best from spring through fall.

Fees and permits: Park entrance fee.

Trail contact: Badlands National Park, 25216 Ben Reifel Road, Interior, SD 57750; (605) 433-5361; www.nps.gov/badl.

Dog-friendly: Dogs not allowed.

Trail surface: Dirt path.

Land status: Badlands National Park.

Nearest town: Wall, SD.

Other trail users: Hikers only.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 239; Badlands National Park brochure.

Finding the trailhead: The Saddle Pass Trail can be accessed from the Badlands Loop Road (SD 240), about 2 miles west of the Ben Reifel Visitor Center. GPS: N43 45.483' / W101 58.467'

The Saddle Pass Trail takes you up to an overlook of the Badlands.

The Hike

The trail (marked with blue metal posts) begins with an upward scramble over unique Badlands formations. Simultaneously the trail provides grand vistas of the park, particularly at the summit. At times, especially when wet, the trail can be treacherous—the clay soil turns to “gumbo,” which is very slippery and sticky. The trail’s dry, loose stones can sometimes act like ball bearings.

At the summit the Saddle Pass Trail links with both the Castle Trail and the Medicine Root Loop Trail. From here, you have a choice of descending on the route traveled upward or linking with one of these two trails.

In the early days, travelers from the north proceeding south to the town of Interior would leave their buggies at the top of the trail. They would then attempt to coax horses down the steep track. If the horses balked, riders left them here with the buggies, retrieving them upon their return from Interior.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the trailhead parking lot 2 miles west of the park’s visitor center on SD 240.

0.3 The trail ends at the summit, with the option to continue hiking on the Castle or Medicine Root Loop Trails.

0.6 Retrace your steps down to the trailhead parking lot.

53 Fossil Exhibit Trail

A short, barrier-free loop with exhibits of area fossils.

See map on page 160.

Start: At the trailhead 5 miles west of the Ben Reifel Visitor Center.

Elevation gain: 2,663 to 2,685 feet.

Distance: 0.25-mile loop.

Difficulty: Easy.

Hiking time: About 1/2 hour.

Seasons: Spring through fall.

Fees and permits: Park entrance fee.

Trail contact: Badlands National Park, 25216 Ben Reifel Road, Interior, SD 57750; (605) 433-5361; www.nps.gov/badl.

Dog-friendly: Dogs not allowed.

Trail surface: Boardwalk.

Land status: Badlands National Park.

Nearest town: Wall, SD.

Other trail users: Hikers only.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 239; Badlands National Park brochure.

Finding the trailhead: The Fossil Exhibit Trail is located 5 miles west of the Ben Reifel Visitor Center on the Badlands Loop Road (SD 240). GPS: N43 46.338' / W102 00.195'

The Hike

This trail is suitable for the entire family. At the Fossil Exhibit, Badlands National Park has created replicas of fossils indigenous to the Badlands, and they are exhibited along this trail on interpretive panels. The trail is wheelchair accessible. If you are here in the summer, attend a talk given by a park naturalist about the fossil history of the park.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the trailhead parking lot, 5 miles west of the park’s visitor center on SD 240; hike the loop in either direction.

0.25 The trail loops back to the parking lot.

54 Door Trail

An interpretive walk through impressive badlands formations.

See map on page 160.

Start: At the northern end of the trailhead parking lot, 2 miles north of the visitor center.

Elevation gain: 2,595 to 2,627 feet.

Distance: 0.9 mile out and back.

Difficulty: Easy to moderate.

Hiking time: 30 minutes to 1 hour.

Seasons: Spring through fall.

Fees and permits: Park entrance fee.

Trail contact: Badlands National Park, 25216 Ben Reifel Road, Interior, SD 57750; (605) 433-5361; www.nps.gov/badl.

Dog-friendly: Dogs not allowed.

Trail surface: Boardwalk, dirt path.

Land status: Badlands National Park.

Nearest town: Wall, SD.

Other trail users: Hikers only.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 239; Badlands National Park brochure.

Finding the trailhead: The Door Trail is located 2 miles north of the Ben Reifel Visitor Center on the Badlands Loop Road (SD 240). GPS: N43 45.813' / W101 55.600'

The Hike

The first segment of the Door Trail is barrier-free and allows visitors in wheelchairs to enter and pass through the “door,” where some of the Badlands’ most rugged terrain greets you. The rest of the trail is rough but flat, and sturdy hiking boots are recommended. The terrain is fragile and many edges are loose. Exercise caution!

Throughout the area you are treated to vast panoramas of spires, “doors in the walls,” and steep gullies. Because of the interplay of light, the design changes constantly—almost whimsically—creating a photographer’s paradise, especially in the morning and early evening.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the northern end of the trailhead parking lot, 2 miles north of the park’s visitor center.

0.45 Reach the “End of Trail” sign; turn around and retrace your steps.

0.9 Return to trailhead parking lot.

55 Window Trail

A barrier-free walk to a “window” that offers a fantastic overview of the Badlands.

See map on page 160.

Start: At the southern end of the trailhead parking lot, 2 miles north of the visitor center.

Elevation gain: 2,628 to 2,635 feet.

Distance: 0.2 mile out and back.

Difficulty: Easy.

Hiking time: Less than 30 minutes.

Seasons: Spring through fall.

Fees and permits: Park entrance fee.

Trail contact: Badlands National Park, 25216 Ben Reifel Road, Interior, SD 57750; (605) 433-5361; www.nps.gov/badl.

Dog-friendly: Dogs not allowed.

Trail surface: Boardwalk.

Land status: Badlands National Park.

Nearest town: Wall, SD.

Other trail users: Hikers only.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 239; Badlands National Park brochure.

Finding the trailhead: The Window Trail is located 2 miles north of the Ben Reifel Visitor Center on the Badlands Loop Road (SD 240). GPS: N43 45.639' / W101 55.660'

The Window Trail is easily accessible and leads to a spectacular view of the Badlands.

The Hike

The Window Trail is an easy walk to a natural “window” in the Badlands Wall, through which visitors can peek at an astonishing view of the eroded canyon. The trail is also barrier-free, though trail conditions can sometimes be rough after severe weather events.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the southern end of the trailhead parking lot, 2 miles north of the park’s visitor center on SD 240.

0.1 Reach the scenic overlook; turn around and retrace your steps.

0.2 Return to trailhead parking lot.

A rope ladder must be used to reach the high point of the Notch Trail.

56 Notch Trail

A hike through and then to the top of a canyon that ends at an overlook on top of a cliff.

See map on page 160.

Start: At the southern end of the trailhead parking lot, 2 miles north of the visitor center.

Elevation gain: 2,640 to 2,754 feet.

Distance: 1.3 miles out and back.

Difficulty: Moderate.

Hiking time: 1 to 2 hours.

Seasons: Spring through fall.

Fees and permits: Park entrance fee.

Trail contact: Badlands National Park, 25216 Ben Reifel Road, Interior, SD 57750; (605) 433-5361; www.nps.gov/badl.

Dog-friendly: Dogs not allowed.

Trail surface: Dirt path, ladder.

Land status: Badlands National Park.

Nearest town: Wall, SD.

Other trail users: Hikers only.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 239; Badlands National Park brochure.

Finding the trailhead: The Notch Trail is located 2 miles north of the Ben Reifel Visitor Center on the Badlands Loop Road (SD 240). GPS: N43 45.605' / W101 55.691'

The Hike

The Notch Trail is a hike of great beauty but one not recommended for those with a fear of heights. For the first 0.3 mile, it meanders through the canyon floor around rocks and delicate prairie flowers. Then it reaches a fifty-six-rung ladder, which is cabled into the hill. Here is where those afraid of heights might want to turn back.

Upon reaching the top of the ladder, hikers follow the scuffed trail that winds around rock ledges above the canyon until it emerges and ends at the top of a cliff, providing a commanding overlook of the valley. Here, you stand on part of a cliff that collapsed long ago and formed the Cliff Shelf Nature Trail, lying directly below. Use caution, as this trail can be slippery when wet. Brown metal posts mark the route. Retrace your steps, descending the ladder this time, to return to the trailhead.

Miles and Directions

0.0 Start at the southern end of the trailhead parking lot, 2 miles north of the park’s visitor center on SD 240.

0.3 Reach the rope ladder; ascend to rim of the canyon.

0.65 The trail ends at an overlook; retrace your steps to return to the trailhead.

1.3 Return to trailhead parking lot.

The Long Trails

The Black Hills offer such incredible diversity of terrain for hikers that we have included brief descriptions of two longer routes for those who cannot get enough of this wilderness.

The land between Wind Cave and Bear Butte is inspiring. Through the combined efforts of different public land agencies, the Centennial Trail was created to celebrate the 100th anniversary of South Dakota statehood. This north-south trail cuts through the middle of the Black Hills, offering the chance to see magnifi-cent views, wildlife, and other points of interest along the way.

The second long trail is the George S. Mickelson Trail, South Dakota’s first rails-to-trails project. It traces the historic Burlington Northern Railroad line over 109 miles from Edgemont to Deadwood. When the rail line was abandoned in 1983, local residents recognized the recreational potential of the land. Backed by then governor George S. Mickelson, the trail was named in his honor. Completed in the fall of 1998, the trail is open to those who travel on foot, skis, snowshoes, bicycle, or horseback. From end to end it offers a panoramic view of the history and the natural splendor of the heart of the Black Hills.

57 Centennial Trail

The Centennial Trail is over 120 miles long. Since the trail is so long and traverses many different public land agencies, it is only natural that portions of the trail may be rerouted and/or changed over time. Since the trail’s establishment in 1989, many sections have been rerouted. Outdated maps and other trail resources may lack the most up-to-date trail information. Hikers are encouraged to research the most current trail information before setting out on the trail and to use multiple resources. These alterations and any future changes will no doubt modify the total length of the trail. Additionally, different GPS units, watches, and other trail measurement devices all will have slight variations. The total length of the trail also depends on which trailheads you use, as there are many different spur trails that lead to optional trailheads.

Centennial Trail markers feature a bison skull and the number 89.

The Centennial Trail can be backpacked in one grand outing or can be hiked segmentally in weeks, months, or even years. Mountain bikes are permitted in most areas, except for the nationally designated wilderness areas, such as the Black Elk Wilderness Area in the Black Hills National Forest and in National Park Service–administered areas of Wind Cave and Mount Rushmore. Mountain bikes are also not permitted on the trail leading to the summit of Bear Butte. For those planning an extended Centennial trek, find ing potable water can be a concern. Carrying a water-purification kit, such as a water filter, capable of filtering out Giardia, is recommended.

Finding campsites is not a problem, since these can be fashioned nearly anywhere in the wilderness and primitive settings. Backpackers are encouraged to make primitive use of the land, using zero-impact camping methods. In Custer State Park camping is permitted only in developed campgrounds and in the French Creek Natural Area. For all other areas, you must camp off the trail and essentially out of sight. Make sure to practice Leave No Trace ethics.

For those preferring to hike segmentally, the Centennial Trail provides more than twenty trailheads, conveniently located for excursions of 4 to 12 miles.

The following provides a breakdown of trailheads and highlights the major features hikers will encounter between trailheads. For many, hiking the trail segmentally may well satisfy limitations imposed by time constraints. Trail users will be delighted to learn that, with few exceptions, the Centennial Trail is very well marked. The trail can be hiked in either direction, but the description that follows starts in Wind Cave National Park and ends at the summit of Bear Butte.

Trailheads (South to North)

Norbeck to Highland Creek (Mile 0 to 5.9)

The Norbeck Trailhead is near the Wind Cave Visitor Center. Follow US 385 north from the visitor center for about 1.5 miles, then turn right onto SD 87, which you then follow north for 0.6 mile. The trailhead is on your right. If leaving your vehicle here for an extended period of time, tell the staff at Wind Cave beforehand. This 5.9-mile segment between Norbeck and Highland Creek provides the possibility of encounters with bison, prairie dogs, elk, and pronghorn antelope. It offers periodic views of Rankin Ridge lookout tower and glimpses of a dynamic prairie ecosystem as well.

Highland Creek to French Creek Horse Camp (Mile 15.1)

The Highland Creek Trailhead is accessed most easily from NPS Park Road 5, located in the northern portion of Wind Cave National Park. Turning east off SD 87, follow the dirt road for 1.3 miles before reaching this access point. From Highland Creek, the trail immediately enters Custer State Park and continues its northerly progression. This section of the trail is somewhat demanding, as there are numerous ascents and descents, often without shade. This segment ends on the eastern side of the French Creek Horse Camp.

French Creek Horse Camp to Badger Hole (Mile 20.5)

The trailhead parking lot (shared with the French Creek Natural Area) is located on the east side of the horse camp, 2.5 miles from SD 87 on Custer State Park Road 4 (Lame Johnny Road). This portion of the trail has been recently rerouted, somewhat adding to the length of the trail. The trail winds its way through forests and meadows, with some very scenic views of Mount Coolidge and the surrounding area before reaching Badger Hole, which is accessed via a short spur trail.

Badger Hole to Iron Creek Trailhead (Mile 28.9)

The Badger Hole Trailhead is located about 1 mile south of US Highway 16A on Badger Clark Road in Custer State Park. Departing from Badger Hole, the trail bypasses Legion Lake to the south and west before heading in a northerly direction. The latter half of the trail parallels America Center Road before crossing SD 87 and ends at the Iron Creek Trailhead, near the Iron Creek Horse Camp.

Iron Creek Trailhead to Big Pine (Mile 39.1)

The Iron Creek Trailhead is located in Custer State Park, about 6 miles north on SD 87 from US 16A and on the right (north) side of the road (watch for signs). This difficult section of the trail skirts the east side of the Iron Creek Horse Camp, then proceeds north through the Black Elk Wilderness. The trail has numerous ascents and descents, making it strenuous. Be on the lookout for views of Mount Rushmore. There are three spur trails in this section: to Iron Mountain Picnic Area, to Mount Rushmore itself, and to Horsethief Lake. Near the end of this segment, the trail crosses SD 244 and reaches the Big Pine Trailhead.

Big Pine to Samelius (Mile 42.7)

Big Pine Trailhead is located on SD 244, 6 miles east of the junction with US Highway 385. This short segment of trail crosses the Old Hill City Road and the 1880 Train railroad tracks, and goes underneath US 16 via a tunnel.

Samelius to Flume/Calumet (Mile 49.8)

Samelius Trailhead is about 6 miles east of Hill City on US 16 on the left (north) side of the road. From the parking lot area, the Centennial Trail will actually be to the south, toward US 16 (not through the gated-off road). This strenuous segment traverses up to the highest point along the entire Centennial Trail: 5,863 feet. Views of Black Elk Peak, the backside of Mount Rushmore, and Sheridan Lake are obtained along the route.

Flume/Calumet to Dakota Point (Mile 52)

This is a shared trailhead between the Centennial Trail and the Flume Trail. The trail-head is located on the southeast side of Sheridan Lake near a boat ramp. This mostly level section follows the lakeshore, then crosses the dam and ends at a parking lot north of the lake.

Dakota Point to Brush Creek (Mile 58.9)

Dakota Point Trailhead is located just east of US 385 off Sheridan Lake Road on the north side of the lake. This portion of the trail winds through some of the most scenic areas of the Hills, especially when hiking over the Bald Hills. These hills do not have tree cover and are just high enough to provide hikers with fantastic views of the surrounding area.

Brush Creek to Rapid Creek (Mile 63.9)

On US 385 just south of Pactola Reservoir, there is a sign for the Brush Creek Trail-head. Travel east for 2.4 miles on Victoria Lake Road and then keep left on Brush Creek Road to the trailhead, on the left. The trail ascends and passes over a ridge, then descends to Rapid Creek. Bridges have been built across Rapid Creek for easy stream crossings. This portion of the trail ends below the Pactola Reservoir dam.

Rapid Creek to Deer Creek (Mile 70)

The Rapid Creek Trailhead is located just below the dam on Pactola Basin Road. There is a small parking lot near the creek. The trail ascends, crosses US Highway 385, and then parallels the highway as it continues to the Deer Creek area. Views of the lake are numerous. Near the end of this segment, the trail reaches a junction with the Deerfield Trail; make sure to keep hiking on the Centennial Trail at this point. After crossing Silver City Road, a short spur trail leads to the Deer Creek Trailhead in a northeasterly direction.

Deer Creek to Pilot Knob (Mile 73.9)

The Deer Creek Trailhead is located only 0.3 mile off US 385 on Silver City Road. This is also a shared trailhead with the Deerfield Trail. Ascending from the parking lot, the Centennial Trail eventually heads in a northwesterly direction, paralleling US 385, before crossing it 2.6 miles from the trailhead and ending at Pilot Knob.

Pilot Knob to South Boxelder Creek (Mile 80.5)

The Pilot Knob Trailhead is located only 1 mile east of US 385 on Merritt Estates Road. This section of trail is shared mutually by hikers and ATV traffic. Make sure to watch out for these vehicles while hiking and give them the right-of-way. This segment includes many ascents and descents and ends by crossing South Boxelder Creek.

South Boxelder Creek to Dalton Lake (Mile 89.1)

The trailhead is less than 1 mile west of Nemo on Boxelder Forks Road. This section of trail is also shared by hikers and ATVs. The trail follows the gravel road for a short distance and then winds through tall ponderosa pine trees as it makes its way to Dalton Lake.

Dalton Lake to Elk Creek (Mile 101.9)

Dalton Lake is 4 miles east on Dalton Lake Road off Vanocker Canyon Road south of Sturgis. This long, somewhat strenuous segment ascends for about 5 miles before almost continually descending from the Black Hills. Views of the northern Black Hills, deep canyons, and the plains below are numerous. Around mile 11, the trail begins a series of stream crossings of Elk Creek. Water is high at times, and wet feet can be expected during spring and rainy weather.

Elk Creek to Alkali Creek (Mile 113.9)

The Elk Creek Trailhead is located south of Sturgis on Runkle Road about 2.5 miles southeast of its junction with Vanocker Canyon Road. This is another long section of trail that twists and turns all the way from the northeast part of the Black Hills down to the surrounding plains, with views of Bear Butte along the way. The trail passes under railroad tracks and I-90 before ending at the Alkali Trailhead near the Fort Meade Recreation Area campground.

Alkali Creek to Fort Meade (Mile 120.2)

The Alkali Creek Trailhead is located within the Fort Meade Recreation Area, just 0.5 mile off I-90 at exit 34 near Sturgis. The trail offers the chance to traverse forested areas as well as grassy meadows on the outer edge of the Black Hills. The trail ascends a ridge that provides views of the northern Black Hills, the city of Sturgis, Bear Butte, and the wide-open plains.

Fort Meade to Bear Butte Lake (Mile 125.6)

The trailhead is just south of SD 34 at Fort Meade, about 2.5 miles east of I-90 from exit 30 in Sturgis. The trail crosses SD 34 and then heads north through a large prairie with great views of the distant Bear Butte, the northern terminus of the Centennial Trail. Grazing cattle may be encountered in this section. Shade is limited, making it very hot in the summer months. The trail then goes around the southeast side of Bear Butte Lake, and this section ends at the horse camp.

Bear Butte Lake to Bear Butte Summit Trailhead (Mile 126.9)

Bear Butte Lake Centennial Trailhead is on the northeast side of the lake, at the horse camp, just off SD 79 north of Sturgis. The trail crosses SD 79 and then heads straight north toward Bear Butte along a fence line. After 1.3 miles, the trail reaches the parking lot of Bear Butte Education Center.

Bear Butte Summit Trailhead to Bear Butte Summit (Mile 128.5)

The trail continues on the north side of the parking lot (Centennial Trail and the Summit Trail) at Bear Butte State Park. The trail, 1.6 miles one-way to the top of Bear Butte, is strenuous and has an elevation gain of over 1,000 feet. If hiking the Centennial Trail south to north, the hike to the top of Bear Butte is very rewarding and a great way to end the long journey through the Black Hills. The view from the top is spectacular. Of course, you will have to hike back down from the summit, thus adding more mileage to the hike. Reminder: No pets of any kind are allowed on the trail to the summit of Bear Butte. Mountain biking is not permitted. If hiking the Centennial Trail from north to south and leaving your vehicle for an extended period of time in Bear Butte State Park, inform a member of the park staff.

58 George S. Mickelson Trail

Started in 1991, the Mickelson Trail represents the completion of the dream of a trail traversing over 100 miles through the beautiful Black Hills.

The concept was conceived in part by South Dakota governor George Mickelson, who intended that a trail should pass through the heart of the Black Hills. Mickelson envisioned a trail that would follow the historic Burlington Northern Railroad from Edgemont to Deadwood, which was abandoned in the 1980s. In response to the abandonment, a group of local citizens decided to preserve the rail-line corridor and develop a recreation trail.

Mickelson remained a strong advocate of the trail, but he was unable to see his vision completed. The trail was named in his honor following his untimely death in 1993.

This trail, with fourteen main trailheads along an old rail bed, offers glimpses into the history of the Black Hills. From it you will see old gold mining camps, claim cabins, cliff cuts, hard-rock tunnels, over one hundred converted bridges, high trestles, and pristine streams. In many places the old rail bed is remote enough to offer a back-country experience. The trail grade is not greater than 4 percent. To further enhance your enjoyment and add a greater dimension to your trip, interpretive panels are found along the length of the trail. The trail is mostly gravel and crushed rock, with some paved areas in towns. Cell phones are unreliable throughout most of the trail.

The trail is open to bikers, skiers, horseback riders, and those on foot. No motorized vehicles are allowed, except for a portion between Deadwood and Dumont that allows snowmobile traffic in winter. Bikers must yield to walkers, and all must yield to horses. The trail is closed from dusk to dawn, and camping is prohibited on the trail right-of-way and at the trailheads. Pets must be on leashes. You will find parking, toilets, and self-sale passes at many of the trailheads. Picnic shelters exist along the trail; one such shelter is at the Hill City Trailhead, honoring the Burlington Northern rail line. Much of the trail passes through open range—where cattle freely roam. Make sure to leave gates as you found then, open or closed.

The trail is a part of South Dakota’s state park system. To help maintain the trail, users age twelve and older are required to pay a small user fee. Those using the trail within the city limits of towns are not charged a fee. Passes are available at stations along the trail and at some state park offices and local businesses. For information, contact the Black Hills Trail Office (George S. Mickelson Trail), 11361 Nevada Gulch Road, Lead, SD 57754 (605-584-3896), or the South Dakota Department of Game, Fish and Parks, 523 East Capitol Ave., Pierre, SD 57501 (605-223-7660). The state publishes a trail guide with mileages and trailhead locations along with an elevation profile.

Sources vary on the exact length of the Mickelson Trail, and it depends on where you start and which spur trails you take. However, the trail is marked with large

mileposts. For the sake of continuity, the brief descriptions below will follow the mileages posted on these markers. The trail starts/ends in Edgemont (milepost 0) and ends/starts in Deadwood (milepost 108.8). Be aware that the trail may be rerouted, changed, or added to with additional spur trails. Check with the Black Hills Trails Office for the most current information. The following descriptions are meant to offer a sampling of this beautiful trail, and do not include each trailhead. Trail users should consult multiple resources before heading out on the trail.

Edgemont (MP 0) to Minnekahta (MP 16.2)

The trail begins on the city streets of Edgemont but soon makes its way to the open prairie. This area is known for free range cattle and little to no shade. Rattlesnakes and poison ivy are present in this area. The trail passes through Sheep Canyon and remnants of an old wildfire before reaching Minnekahta Junction.

Minnekahta to Pringle (MP 32.1)

As you head north from Minnekahta, you will soon leave the prairie behind and enter the forested areas of the southern Black Hills. The trail passes by many abandoned mines before ending this segment in the small community of Pringle.

Pringle to Harbach Park (MP 44.5)

Pringle is known as the “Elk Capital of South Dakota.” The trail begins in the middle of the small town and parallels the main highway for a couple of miles where it reaches the White Elephant Trailhead. From White Elephant, the trail veers off from paralleling the main highway. The trail passes by rocky outcroppings, numerous old barns, mills, and wonderful scenery on its way to the city of Custer. Note: The White Elephant Trailhead is at MP 35.7.

Harbach Park to Hill City (MP 60.1)

At this trailhead is an old, green Burlington Northern caboose, which was donated by the railroad company. A paved section of the trail proceeds through the city of Custer and reaches a spur trail. This spur is about 3 miles long and leads east to the Stockade Lake area in Custer State Park. Heading north on the main trail, it passes by the memorial to Crazy Horse before continuing to Hill City. Note: The Mountain Trailhead is at MP 49.6.

Hill City to Rochford (MP 82.6)

The trail passes by the historic 1880 Train and the South Dakota State Railroad Museum before heading out of town. On clear days Black Elk Peak is visible to the south from some parts of the trail. The trail goes over bridges and through tunnels,

Large mileposts are placed along the Mickelson Trail.

and it passes by the remnants of Redfern, an old Civilian Conservation Corps Camp, Rapid Creek, and waterfalls. Note: The Mystic Trailhead is at MP 74.7.

Rochford to Dumont (MP 92.6)

Rochford, once a camp full of gold miners, is now a picturesque little community in the northern Black Hills. The trail parallels Rapid Creek and traverses valleys, tall trees, tunnels, and remnants of old mines.

Dumont to Deadwood (MP 108.8)

If you are biking or hiking the trail from south to north, you will be rewarded with a continuous descent of more than 1,000 feet from Dumont to Deadwood. Dumont is located near the high point of the entire trail. This area is noticeably cooler in every season and has many aspen trees. The trail goes through Lead and Pluma before reaching milepost 109 in Deadwood. Note: The Englewood Trailhead is at MP 98.5, the Sugarloaf Trailhead at MP 103.3, and the Kirk Trailhead at MP 105.3. There is also a short spur near Lead at MP 103.7.

Start your Bearlodge Mountain hiking adventure with a trip to the Warren Peak lookout tower for a great overview of the area.

Bonus Hikes at a Glance

Sundance Trail System

A 47.3-mile trail system that explores the dense forests, deep canyons, and open ridges of the Bearlodge Mountains.

Start: At any of the four trailheads: Sheepnose, Ogden Creek, Sundance, or Reuter.

Elevation gain: 4,600 to 6,200 feet.

Distance: 47.3 miles total.

Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous.

Hiking time: 30 minutes to a full day.

Seasons: All.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Bearlodge Ranger District, 101 S. 21st St., PO Box 680, Sundance, WY 82729; (307) 283-1361; www.fs.usda.gov/bhnf.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Forested trail, dirt path/road.

Land status: Black Hills National Forest.

Nearest town: Sundance, WY.

Other trail users: Horseback riders, mountain bikers, cross-country skiers.

Maps: Black Hills National Forest Map; BHNF Sundance & Carson Draw Trails Map No. 87 & 93.

Veterans Point Trail

A peaceful walk on a short loop trail offering views of Pactola Reservoir and the central area of the Black Hills.

Start: At the trailhead parking lot on the north side of Pactola Reservoir.

Elevation gain: 4,602 to 4,675 feet.

Distance: 0.6-mile loop with an optional one-way spur trail.

Difficulty: Easy.

Hiking time: About 30 minutes.

Seasons: Best late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Mystic Ranger District, 8221 S. Highway 16, Rapid City, SD 57702; (605) 343-1567; www.fs.usda.gov/bhnf.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Forested trail with some paved sections.

Land status: Black Hills National Forest.

Nearest town: Hill City, SD.

Other trail users: Hikers only.

Maps: Black Hills National Forest Map; National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Map No. 751.

The Veterans Point Trail provides great views of Pactola Reservoir.

View of Stockade Lake in the winter.

Stockade Lake Trail

A hike in Custer State Park that offers distant views of the southern Black Hills, the Needles, Black Elk Peak, and Stockade Lake.

Start: At the trailhead on Stockade Lake Drive just north of the lake’s swimming area.

Elevation gain: 5,200 to 5,565 feet.

Distance: 1.5-mile lollipop.

Difficulty: Moderate.

Hiking time: 1 to 2 hours.

Seasons: Best late spring through fall.

Fees and permits: No fees or permits required.

Trail contact: Custer State Park, 13329 US Highway 16A, Custer, SD 57730; (605) 255-4515; https://gfp.sd.gov/parks/detail/custer-state-park/.

Dog-friendly: Leashed dogs permitted.

Trail surface: Rocky, forested trail.

Land status: Custer State Park.

Nearest town: Custer, SD.

Other trail users: Horseback riders, mountain bikers.

Maps: National Geographic/Trails Illustrated Topo Map No. 238; Custer State Park Trail Guide.

Appendix A: Suggested Equipment

Even the most experienced hiker is sometimes well into a hike when he or she remembers a forgotten but necessary item. The following list is intended to help in preventing such occurrences, ensuring a more enjoyable trip. Some items on the list are essentials, but others can be included according to personal preference. Always keep the weight factor in mind. This is not meant to be a complete list.

Weather in the Black Hills can be unpredictable. Thundershowers come on a regular basis in the summer months. And if you are high on a mountain trail during a sudden shower, it can suddenly get very cold. So even if it is seventy-five degrees at your campsite, carry enough warm clothes and good rain gear to be prepared. Hiking boots should be of good quality and already broken in. Many trips have been ruined in the first few hours by new or poorly fitting boots. If you have purchased something new for a hike (tent, backpack, boots, etc.), it is a good idea to try it out, break it in, or set it up before embarking on your trek.

One final caution about drinking the water. Don’t. Do not drink it—until it has been purified with an acceptable system, that is. Wind Cave National Park and Badlands National Park have little water, and both these places are hot and dry in summer. The advice of most rangers in the Black Hills is to pack your own water. Take the water weight factor into account when planning a hike of any length.

The following checklists will help you pack well for any day or backpack trip in the Black Hills:

Clothing

___ good-quality rain gear

___ warm jacket

___ windbreaker

___ wind pants

___ long underwear

___ long pants

___ lightweight long-sleeve shirt(s)

___ T-shirts and shorts

___ sweater or heavy shirt

___ socks for each day plus one extra set

___ underwear

___ hats—one wool, one with sun visor

___ gloves

___ belt

___ good hiking boots

___ extra shoes or sandals for camp and stream crossings

Food

___ hot-and cold-drink mixes (tea, coffee)

___ dry food (dry your own or buy commercial meals, rice, beans, noodles)

___ hot cereal to mix with water

___ trail mix

___ high-energy snacks

Hiking Equipment

___ tent and rain fly

___ warm sleeping bag and pad with stuff sacks

___ full-size backpack

___ day pack for shorter side trips from a base camp

___ backpack stove and fuel

___ cooking pot

___ cup

___ bowl

___ utensils

___ water bottle

___ waterproof matches in container

Miscellaneous

___ keys

___ drivers license, credit/debit card, cash

___ compass

___ maps

___ tick and insect repellent

___ sunscreen and lip balm

___ sunglasses

___ toilet paper

___ toothbrush

___ biodegradable soap

___ small towel/washcloth

___ small backpack shovel

___ garbage sack

___ plastic sandwich bags

___ pocket knife

___ binoculars

___ water filter or purification tablets

___ first-aid kit

___ flashlight and batteries

___ fishing gear and license

___ pocket notebook and pencil

___ 50-foot length of nylon cord

___ waterproof backpack cover

___ paperback book

___ headlamp

___ extra batteries

___ portable charger

___ cell phone and/or camera

Appendix B: Managing Agencies

The following agencies are excellent sources for maps, hiking and camping information, books, and other materials concerning the Black Hills.

Black Hills National Forest

Black Hills National Forest

Supervisor’s Office

1019 N. 5th St.

Custer, SD 57730

(605) 673-9200

Bearlodge Ranger District

101 S. 21st St.

PO Box 680

Sundance, WY 82729

(307) 283-1361

Hell Canyon Ranger District

Newcastle Office

1225 Washington Boulevard

Newcastle, WY 82701

(307) 746-2782

Custer Office

1019 N. 5th St.

Custer, SD 57730

(605) 673-9200

Mystic Ranger District

8221 S. Highway 16

Rapid City, SD 57702

(605) 343-1567

Northern Hills Ranger District

2014 North Main St.

Spearfish, SD 57783

(605) 642-4622

Other Public Lands Agencies and Associations

Badlands National Park

25216 Ben Reifel Road

Interior, SD 57750

(605) 433-5361

Bear Butte State Park

PO Box 688

Sturgis, SD 57785

(605) 347-5240

Black Hills Parks and Forests Association

26611 US Highway 385

Hot Springs, SD 57747

(605) 745-7020

Black Hills Trails Office (George S. Mickelson Trail)

11361 Nevada Gulch Road

Lead, SD 57754

(605) 584-3896

Bureau of Land Management South Dakota Field Office

309 Bonanza St.

Belle Fourche, SD 57717

(605) 892-7000

Bureau of Land Management Newcastle Field Office

1101 Washington Boulevard

Newcastle, WY 82701

(307) 746-6600

Custer State Park

13329 US Highway 16A

Custer, SD 57730

(605) 255-4515

Devils Tower National Monument

PO Box 10

Devils Tower, WY 82714

(307) 467-5283

Mount Rushmore National Memorial

13000 Highway 244

Building 31, Suite 1

Keystone, SD 57751

(605) 574-2523

Wind Cave National Park

26611 US Highway 385

Hot Springs, SD 57747

(605) 745-4600

Jewel Cave National Monument

11149 US Highway 16

Building B12

Custer, SD 57730

(605) 673-8300

Forest Recreation Management

PO Box 1168

Hill City, SD 57745

(605) 574-4402

South Dakota Game, Fish and Parks

523 East Capitol Avenue

Pierre, SD 57501

(605) 223-7660

Wyoming Game and Fish Department

5400 Bishop Boulevard

Cheyenne, WY 82006

(307) 777-4600

South Dakota Department of Tourism

711 East Wells Avenue

Pierre, SD 57501

(800) 732-5682

Wyoming Office of Tourism

5611 High Plains Road

Cheyenne, WY 82007

(800) 225-5996

Appendix C: Campgrounds

Campgrounds are abundant in the Black Hills, ranging from those with facilities to ones that are primitive and not so easily accessible. There is something for everyone. Some require reservations, so it is a good idea to call ahead, especially for the busier summer months. Many campgrounds in the Black Hills region are reservable on www.recreation.gov. Campgrounds on or near lakes and those offering shower facilities seem to fill the fastest.

Backcountry or wilderness camping is allowed in most of the Black Hills and Badlands National Park. Some areas require a backcountry camping permit, and all areas have certain regulations, which can be obtained from district offices or ranger stations. Practice zero-impact camping wherever you go.

Badlands National Park

Two campgrounds: Cedar Pass and Sage Creek Campgrounds.

Bear Butte State Park

One campground and one horse camp.

Black Hills National Forest

Thirty-one campgrounds (including horse and group camps). Many of these campgrounds are managed by Forest Recreation Management.

Custer State Park

Eight campgrounds and one horse camp. Reservations are strongly recommended. Additionally, primitive camping sites are available in the French Creek Natural Area.

Devils Tower

One within the boundary: Belle Fourche River Campground.

Fort Meade Recreation Area (Bureau of Land Management)

One campground and one horse camp, located near Sturgis.

Wind Cave

One campground, Elk Mountain, located 1 mile from the visitor center.

There are many privately operated campgrounds in the Black Hills region, as well as other camping options managed by public land agencies such as South Dakota and Wyoming state parks, US Army Corps of Engineers, and the National Grasslands.

Appendix D: Additional Reading

Benton, Rachel C., Emmett Evanoff, Hugh Gregory McDonald, and Dennis O. Terry. The White River Badlands: Geology and Paleontology (Indiana University Press, Bloomington, IN: 2015).

Conn, Herb and Jan. The Jewel Cave Adventure (National Speleological Society, Huntsville, AL: 2019).

Costello, Damian. Black Elk: Colonialism and Lakota Catholicism (Orbis Books, Mary-knoll, NY: 2005).

Eastman, Charles A. The Soul of the Indian: An Interpretation (University of Nebraska Press, Lincoln, NE: 2020).

Froiland, Sven G . Natural History of the Black Hills and Badlands (Center for Western Studies, Sioux Falls, SD: 1990).

Gries, John Paul. Roadside Geology of South Dakota (Mountain Press, Missoula, MT: 1996).

Gunderson, Mary Alice. Devils Tower: Stories in Stone (High Plains Press, Glendo, WY: 1988).

Hedren, Paul. After Custer: Loss and Transformation in Sioux Country (University of Oklahoma Press, Norman, OK: 2011).

Horsted, Paul. Black Hills Yesterday & Today (Golden Valley Press, Custer, SD: 2006).

Larson, Gary E. Plants of the Black Hills and Bear Lodge Mountains (South Dakota State University Press, Brookings, SD: 1999).

Loomis, Tom, and John L. Lufkin. Guidebook to the Geology of the Black Hills, South Dakota (Golden Publishers, Golden, CO: 2015).

Neihardt, John. Black Elk Speaks (University of Nebraska Press, Lincoln, NE: 2014).

Sanders, Peggy. Wind Cave National Park: The First 100 Years (Arcadia Publishing, Chicago, IL: 2003).

Sandoz, Mari . Crazy Horse: The Strange Man of the Oglalas (University of Nebraska Press, Lincoln, NE: 2008).

Tekiela, Stan. Birds of the Dakotas Field Guide (Adventure Publishing, Cambridge, MN: 2003).