Amigurumi Critters

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DEDICATION

To my sweet and silly kiddos, Aria and Noah.

To my husband, Daniel, whose support has turned my dream into a reality.

Romans 15:13

To Melo (@melodiybali), Ani (@handmade_byani), Lysa (lqrcrafts), Sheila (salty_the_crafty), Libby (@libbydoodle), and last but certainly not least, Lea (@kouzikrafts). Thank you for being my brilliant testers who helped make these designs the best they could be.

INTRODUCTION

Hello!

Perhaps one of the cute animals on the cover caught your eye or maybe you’ve been actively following my journey as a designer from the beginning. However you got here, it’s my great pleasure to put this book into your hands.

From a young age I’ve loved creating with my hands and heart. From friendship bracelets to Perler beads to pottery, the process of making art was always meaningful to me.

When I eventually stumbled upon amigurumi back in 2018, I immediately became hooked. The term amigurumi means “the Japanese art of crocheting small plushies.”

I was an elementary school teacher for a number of years before I decided to pursue crochet designing full-time. One commonality between the two professions is that I get to help others learn, and that brings me so much joy! You can think of the patterns in this book as being like recipes in a baking book—the steps I’ve recorded will guide you in recreating any of the cute plushies pictured.

I’m a naturally curious person (you can probably imagine the trouble I got into as a kid) and I remember always being the person who wanted to know the why behind everything!

Just the other week, I was baking cupcakes with my daughter (the kind that come pre-mixed in a box because I’m definitely not gifted in the baking realm), and the instructions read, “Mix all of the dry ingredients first and then add the wet ingredients.” I couldn’t help but think, Well, why? Won’t they all end up in the same bowl anyway? What would happen if you didn’t?

That’s exactly the reason I’ve added little tips and blurbs to help my readers gain a better understanding about what the techniques I’ve embedded will establish. My hope is that you’ll not only walk away with an adorable plushie that you made with your own two hands but that you’ll also grow in your confidence and skills in amigurumi making.

Happy crocheting, friends!

Amy

TOOLS

It seems like there are endless yarn and hook options to choose from! Just as painters choose specific brushes for the type of art they want to make, crocheters do the same when choosing hooks and yarn. Below are some things to consider when making your selection and also my personal preferences. Of course, the best way to figure out what’s best for you is to try out different kinds.

HOOKS

The two most common kinds of “grips” (how we hold the crochet hook) are called the pencil grip and the knife grip. The right grip for you is the one that’s most comfortable! I personally like the knife grip because it gives you more control and puts less pressure on your wrist when working into the tight stitches we use while making amigurumi. The knife grip also makes ergonomic sense if you tend to yarn under as I do (see more on that term on page 15).

Any movement repeated for long periods of time is bound to put strain on your joints. If you want to save yourself from pain, choose a hook with an ergonomic handle. Because I use the knife grip, I prefer a longer handle, and so Clover Amour Hooks are my go-to. They’re very well made with a strong aluminum shaft. The yarn also glides without much resistance, making it easier on your hands.

When making amigurumi, we want to create tight stitches so that there are no gaps for the stuffing to peek through. This is different from crocheting garments where drape created by looser stitches is desired.

Many amigurumi artists have experienced “yarn burn” (where you grip the yarn so tightly that the fibers rub your skin raw) as well as snapping their hooks. My friend, though you’re welcome to do what you’re most comfortable with, let’s work smarter, not harder! You may have heard of sizing down two hook sizes below the recommended size, which you can find on the back of your yarn labels. However, if you’re still noticing big gaps in your work, size down again! Over time, the consistency in your tension will improve—and again, a bit of experimentation to figure out what works best for you is completely welcomed.

CROCHET HOOK SIZE CHART (US & UK)

Millimeter Size | US Size
2.25 mm | B-1
2.5 mm | --
2.75 mm | C-2
3.125 mm | D
3.25 mm | D-3
3.5 mm | E-4
3.75 mm | F-5
4 mm | G-6
4.25 mm | G
4.5 mm | 7
5 mm | H-8
5.25 mm | I
5.5 mm | I-9
5.75 mm | J
6 mm | J-10
6.5 mm | K-101/2
7 mm | --
8 mm | L-11
9 mm | M/N-13
10 mm | N/P-15
11.5 mm | P-16
12 mm | --
15 mm | P/Q
15.75 mm | Q
16 mm | Q
19 mm | S
25 mm | T/U/X
30 mm | T/X

YARN

Ah, can we agree that this is probably every crocheter’s favorite topic to chat about? There are so many types of yarn to choose from and that’s what makes it so fun! There’s a perfect project for each type. Below are some of my personal opinions.

Acrylic yarns are the most accessible and affordable. They tend to be fuzzier but they create nice, structured stitches for amigurumi. Natural fibers such as wool have a bit more stretch to them and, overall, don’t hold up in shape as nicely as acrylics do. Chenille yarn is another great option and it’s been skyrocketing in popularity. I’m an absolute fan and also have a bunch of jumbo patterns written using this type of yarn on my website. Though you won’t see chenille being used in this book in particular, you can easily modify any of my patterns with this type of yarn and the corresponding hook size. And now, saving my favorite for last, let’s talk about cotton yarn!

I’m based in the San Francisco Bay Area and finding a wide range of cotton yarn in stores near me is a bit of a challenge. However, I’ve found a brand online that I’m absolutely in love with—Hobbii! It’s become my go-to. I prefer cotton because of the stitch definition it creates for my amigurumi. Each stitch looks crisp and neat, and I’ve also found that this type of yarn stretches out less over time. Hobbii’s cotton yarns also come in a wide range of colors, allowing me to choose the perfect shades to bring a design to life. Lastly, cotton yarn is soft and pliable with no pilling or fuzz.

Hobbii is also the proud yarn sponsor of this book, and I want to thank them for their partnership and for believing in my vision for my very first amigurumi book. The two #3 light worsted cotton yarns used for these patterns are Rainbow Cotton 8/8 and Friends Cotton 8/8. Each skein is 50 grams. I’ve intentionally designed each of the animals in this collection to use 1–2 skeins on average, making them fit perfectly into your palm.

DARNING NEEDLES

The animals in this book are about 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) tall on average, making their stitches quite small. Having the right needle is crucial for sewing. I really like Clover’s darning needles because they’re made of metal. Their pointy tips allow for precise sewing and they don’t bend when maneuvering between tight stitches.

With no-sew patterns on the rise lately, I feel that there’s been an overall negative outlook when it comes to sewing. However, I’ll gladly defend my post—sewing is just as important to making amigurumi as the actual crocheting itself. I get it—sometimes, we just want the satisfaction of the completed plushie and so sewing feels tedious. However, I believe that sewing is like any skill that needs to be practiced and honed. The more you practice, the better you’ll become. With that being said, this book does contain a couple of patterns with minimal sewing (Axolotl and Sea Star) but I also think that certain looks in amigurumi can only be achieved with sewing. So, invest in a strong metal hook and you’re good to go!

SEWING PINS

Sewing pins allow you to position the body parts symmetrically. Don’t skip using them! I also find it helpful to mark the line of symmetry down the body so that I can count an even number of stitches when determining where to place each part.

STITCH MARKERS

Using stitch markers is essential when keeping track of your rounds. When you’re first starting out, reattaching the stitch marker at the beginning of each new round is a step you don’t want to miss. I have found that cutting a long strand of a contrast color yarn and wrapping it back and forth after each new round has also worked for me and is easy to pull out at the end.

SAFETY EYES/EMBROIDERED EYES

Safety eyes bring our amigurumi creations to life. I use a variety of different sizes for the patterns in this book. Please note that they’re not intended for small children. It’s safest to add the backings to them and to melt them down, but since mine are mainly decorative I like to glue them in place after a piece is closed to ensure that they’re symmetrical. You can also embroider the eyes to be extra safe. Playing around with different pastel-colored thread can create very different effects.

DIFFICULTY LEVELS

This book is intended for crocheters of all levels to enjoy but is especially geared toward those who have mastered the basic stitches and are ready to dive into creating more complex creations.

Please note that the base level for this book starts at the “Intermediate-Beginner +” level. This is because you’ll need to understand the basic stitches. I would say that a true beginner-level pattern would be a simple crocheted ball. Though it would be helpful if you’ve made a few amigurumi before attempting the patterns in this book, new crocheters can certainly find success if you have a “grab life by the horns” mentality. I would recommend starting with Gertrude the Grumpy Chick and following along with the YouTube tutorial I have on my channel (@curiouspapaya).

As I mentioned in the introduction, my hope is for you to walk away more confident and proud of your abilities. There’s that sense of accomplishment that is so rewarding and is only achievable when we test our limits and improve our craft!

Lastly, it’s important to note that a crocheter’s level isn’t determined by the number of years of experience. It depends more on the different skills acquired. A complete beginner can move up to an advanced level in just a few short months! I hope that we can all approach creating amigurumi with the mindset that there’s always something new to learn.

INTERMEDIATE-BEGINNER +

These patterns involve the basic stitches, such as single crochet, increases, and invisible decreases, and use techniques such as making a magic circle. They involve basic sewing to attach pieces.

INTERMEDIATE

These patterns are a step up from the Intermediate-Beginner + level and involve other types of stitches, such as half double crochet and double crochet stitches. They may involve color-work or crocheting with embroidery thread.

EXPERIENCED

These patterns involve more complex techniques (such as crocheting in an oval spiral or working into chain spaces). There may be heavier sewing involved and you will need to pay close attention to positioning and assembling pieces. In all, your intuition (artist’s judgment) is needed to create a pattern of this level.

TECHNIQUES

MAGIC CIRCLE

A magic circle is used in almost all amigurumi patterns. It’s also called a “magic loop” or “magic ring.” This allows the start of your amigurumi to have no holes or gaps in the center. You can watch my tutorial for beginners on my YouTube channel @curiouspapaya.

1 With your nondominant palm facing you, position the yarn tail so that the shorter end is pointing downward.

2 Wrap the yarn around your index and middle fingers and form an “X.” Hold the X down with your thumb.

3 With your hook, go under the loop and behind the two fingers. Then grab the yarn. Pull it through the same loop.

4 Reposition your grip so that your thumb and middle finger are pressing down on the circle. Yarn over and pull through the loop around your hook, similar to how you would “chain 1.”

5 Pull on the shorter yarn tail to tighten the magic circle a bit. This will make it more comfortable to hold on to when adding single crochet stitches into the circle.

Video tutorials playlist

RIGHT SIDE VS. WRONG SIDE OF STITCHES

When working in a spiral for amigurumi, the piece will eventually curl into itself and create a bowl shape. It’s important to know which side should face outward.

For the “wrong” side of the stitches, you’ll see horizontal bars across the surface. For the “right” side of the stitches, you’ll see X-shaped stitches (if you yarn under as I do) or V-shaped stitches (if you yarn over).

Another way to tell, if you want some extra reassurance, is that the yarn tail left from the magic circle should be on the inside of the piece if the right side of the stitches are facing outward. There’s a saying I like to use: “Keep the noodle in the bowl!” (The noodle being the yarn tail and the bowl being the crocheted piece.)

YARN OVER VS. YARN UNDER

Yarning over is the standard way of crocheting. It’s when you wrap the yarn over the hook when making a single crochet stitch. In amigurumi, this creates a V-shaped stitch and will create slightly looser stitches. Because the stitches are wider at the top, you will experience the start of your piece shifting over with each new round when working in a continuous spiral.

The rotating start of your round will be more noticeable for some of the animals in this book that have longer bodies (e.g., Dolphin, Shark), so be mindful of how your piece may come out differently if you choose to yarn over instead.

Yarning under is when you wrap the yarn under the hook when making a single crochet stitch. I personally prefer to use this method when working with cotton yarn because of the beautiful X-shaped stitches they create. This creates tighter stitches and less noticeable gaps between the stitches, which is desirable so that the stuffing doesn’t show through.

Again, it’s all about your preference! Both look nice for different projects.

CREATING MORE UNIFORM STITCHES

If you want to take your crocheting to the next level, follow this tip when making your stitches. Since we are so focused on making tight stitches for amigurumi, many people don’t follow through the full range of motion in creating a stitch.

Our hook hovers on the side of the piece’s open edge. (In fact, this is what causes people’s pieces to curl with the wrong side of the stitches facing out!) Instead, pull up the yarn and hover directly above the open edge.

This will create a very crisp stitch definition and is more noticeable when yarning under.

INVISIBLE DECREASE

Invisible decreases will create smaller gaps in your amigurumi. My recommendation is to yarn over when doing this stitch even if you typically yarn under.

1 Insert your hook into the front loop of the next stitch.

2 Insert your hook into the front loop of the stitch after that. You should now have 3 loops on your hook.

3 Yarn over and pull through the top 2 loops on your hook. You should now have 2 loops on your hook.

4 Yarn over and pull through the remaining 2 loops on your hook.

5 The invisible decrease is complete!

INVISIBLE FINISH

To create a neater finish on open edges for certain pieces (such as Gertrude the Grumpy Chick’s beak), we will use the invisible finish technique.

Since we are working in a spiral, there is a noticeable jog for each time the round builds on itself.

1 Rather than fastening off by making a slip stitch in the next stitch over, cut the yarn and pull it up from the current stitch.

2 Thread the yarn tail with the needle and skip the next stitch. Weave from the front to the back, going under both loops.

3 Weave back out where you came from through the back loop only.

4 Pull tightly and your faux stitch has been made!

COLOR CHANGES

1 Pay attention to the last single crochet stitch before the color change. When you are making it, pause right before the final yarn pull.

2 Create a slipknot in the new color and complete the single crochet stitch in the new color.

Now that the new color is on your hook, the first stitch in the new color will be the next stitch you make.

STAGGERING INCREASES

Amigurumi pieces frequently start with 6 stitches and then increase in increments of 6. However, when all the stitches are stacked on top of one another, this makes them stick out and create pointy edges (like a hexagon).

It’s hard to tell once the piece is stuffed, but a trained eye can notice. To make each round, well, rounder, we can stagger the even rounds by splitting the number of single crochet stitches in half. For example:

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 [24] → (sc, inc, sc) x6 [24]

You will end with the same number of stitches.

CLOSING UP A PIECE

Amigurumi pieces often close up at 6 stitches, creating a very round bottom. For several of the patterns in my book, I close up at increments of 8 or sometimes even 12 (for example, Gertrude the Grumpy Chick and all the bird modifications). This creates a flatter bottom. You’ll need to make sure you don’t understuff a piece if closing it up at a larger increment or the surface will come out wavy.

1 Thread your needle and identify the front loops only of the last round crocheted.

2 Weave into each of the front loops in the direction shown in the image.

3 Give the yarn tail a snug pull and watch the gap disappear.

4 Gently weave the remainder of the yarn tail into the piece, weaving in different directions several times before burying the remainder of the tail.

*Tip: Do not tug with too much force or you’ll end up making unwanted “dimples” in your crocheted piece.

CROCHETING A PIECE CLOSED

This technique makes sewing flat pieces onto the body more seamless. The trick here is to remember that the number of stitches you’ll make to close the piece should be about half the stitch count you leave off with. For example, if you ended with 18 stitches, you should make about 9 stitches to single crochet the piece closed, give or take one.

1 Flatten the opening.

2 Insert your hook through both loops of both layers. There should be 5 loops total on your hook.

3 Single crochet as you normally would.

To create an even neater appearance when sewing the piece on (for example, sewing the Sloth’s arm onto the body), position the wrong side of the stitches toward you and the right side of the stitches against the body.

WHIPSTITCHING

Whipstitching allows you to close a piece up by simply weaving the yarn tail through both loops of both layers in the same direction. This will create diagonal lines.

EMBROIDERING DETAILS & SEWING PIECES TOGETHER

Securing the yarn tails is crucial for both techniques listed above. You always want to make sure that you secure the yarn tails in a knot. (Trust me, it only takes one time of doing this wrong before you’ll never want to rush through this step again!)

1 When embroidering, enter into the side of the piece and leave a 3-inch yarn tail.

2 After you finish your details (for example, eyes, eyebrows, etc.) weave back out where you entered and secure the yarn tails in a double knot.

3 Cut the excess length on the yarn tails.

4 Bury them inside the piece (either by using fine-point tweezers or using a small hook to pull them in).

When sewing body parts together, always secure the yarn tail to another before weaving them in.

WORKING IN AN OVAL SPIRAL

This is an Intermediate-Beginner + technique that I introduce in a lot of my patterns. Here is an overview of how this works, though the number of chains may differ.

1 No matter how many chains you start with, always begin by working into the second chain from the hook and work 3 sc into the last chain.

*Tip: Pay attention to the orientation of the yarn tail in these images!

2 This is how the oval spiral will look after you make 3 sc into the last chain. This is technically called a “double increase,” and it provides enough length to curve into the bottom of the chain.

3 Now turn and work along the bottom of the chain. Position the piece so that the yarn tail matches where it is in the image. Always make an increase in the last chain.

4 Now slip stitch into the first stitch you made. The slip stitch does not add height, and this creates a symmetrical oval base to start working the oval spiral.

*Tip: The more chains you start with, the longer the oval will be!

5 This is the important part! The new start of the round begins after the slip stitch. Make sure to mark this with a stitch marker.

ABBREVIATIONS

Abbreviations may take a moment to get familiar with, but once you get the hang of it, it makes reading patterns much easier. Most crochet books written in English use US or UK terminology. This book is written in US terminology.

blo: back loops only

ch: chain

ch-sp: chain space

dc: double crochet

dc-inc: double crochet increase

dec: (invisible) decrease

flo: front loops only

hdc: half double crochet

hdc-inc: half double crochet increase

inc: single crochet increase

sc: single crochet

slst: slip stitch

st(s): stitch(es)

rnd(s): round(s)

[#]: stitch count

(...) x #: repeat instructions

rs: right side

ws: wrong side

SPECIAL STITCHES

bo: bobble stitch—Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, draw loop back through stitch, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops. Repeat this 3 more times until you have 5 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all 5 loops.

SPsc: spike stitch—Yarn over for this special stitch instead of yarning under. To make a spike stitch, insert the hook into the stitch of the round below. Pull up the loop to the height of the current round you are on and make a single crochet stitch as you normally would.

GERTRUDE
THE GRUMPY CHICK

DIFFICULTY

Meet Gertrude the Grumpy Chick! She’s full of spunk and is an avid gardener. Originally designed for a crochet-along back in 2021, Gertrude quickly won the hearts of many and became the beloved mascot of curiouspapaya. Find free accessories for her on curiouspapaya.com!

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Hobbii Friends Cotton 8/8

⬦ 1 skein of Sunflower (24) yellow – 26 g

⬦ 1 skein of Orange (30) – 2 g

⬦ 1 skein of White (01) – 11 g

⬦ 1 skein of Beige (05) – 11 g

• DMC 6-Strand Cotton Embroidery Thread

⬦ Black (310)

• 2.75 mm and 3.50 mm hook

• Two 8 mm safety eyes

• Stuffing

• Scissors

• Yarn needle

• Stitch markers

• Sewing pins

• Optional: blush and a cotton swab

TECHNIQUES

• Magic circle (see page 12)

• Invisible finish (see page 18)

• Closing up a piece (see page 21)

NOTES

This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral.

The hat’s brim will be worked in a joined rnd and the “ch 2” at the beginning counts as the first st.

Warning: It is super important to double strand the hat or it will come out too small. Do not skip this step! To do this, simply hold 2 strands of yarn at the same time and crochet as you normally would.

The 3.5 mm hook is only for the hat. Everything else will use the 2.75 mm hook.

Measurements:

3.5 in. x 3 in. [~9 cm x ~8 cm] if using the prescribed materials.

HEAD & BODY
In Sunflower yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc, inc, sc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x6 [36]

Rnds 7–10 (4 rnds total): sc all around [36]

Rnd 11: 4 inc, 10 sc, 4 inc, 18 sc [44]

Rnd 12: sc all around [44]

Rnd 13: (20 sc, dec) x2 [42]

Rnd 14: (5 sc, dec) x6 [36]

Rnd 15: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x6 [30]

Rnd 16: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

Rnd 17: (sc, dec, sc) x6 [18]

Insert the safety eyes between rnds 10–11, 7 sts apart.

Stuff the head and fill out the two cheeks well. Continue on to the body.

Rnd 18: (flo) – (inc) x18 [36]

Rnd 19: sc all around [36]

Rnd 20: (5 sc, inc) x6 [42]

Rnds 21–22 (2 rnds total): sc all around [42]

Rnd 23: (5 sc, dec) x6 [36]

Rnd 24: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x6 [30]

Rnd 25: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

Rnd 26: (sc, dec, sc) x6 [18]

Rnd 27: (sc, dec) x6 [12]

Stuff well. Fasten off and leave a tail for closing up the piece. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

WINGS
Make two in Sunflower yarn

Rnd 1: make a slipknot and ch 5, starting from the second ch from the hook, sc into the next 4 ch, turn and work along the bottom of the ch, sc into the next 4 ch [8]

Rnds 2–3 (2 rnds total): sc all around [8]

Rnd 4: (2 sc, dec) x2 [6]

Rnd 5: sc all around [6]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Do not stuff.

FEET
Make two in Orange yarn

Step 1: Make a slipknot and ch 2, slst into the second ch from the hook and add a stitch marker here (this is the back of the foot).

Step 2: *ch 2, sc into the second ch from the hook, slst into the marked st* (this is the first toe).

Step 3: Repeat the steps between the * * two more times for a total of three toes.

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

BEAK
In Orange yarn

Rnd 1: make a slipknot and ch 5, starting from the second ch from the hook, sc into the next 4 ch, turn and work along the bottom of the ch, sc into the next 4 ch [8]

Rnd 2: sc all around [8]

Use the invisible finish and leave a tail for sewing.

HAT
Double strand White and Beige yarn with a 3.5 mm hook

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc, inc, sc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]

Rnds 6–8 (3 rnds total): sc all around [30]

*Note: You will create the brim in the next rnd. Increasing all around will create a wavy texture.

Rnd 9: (flo) – sc into the first st, ch 2 (this will count as your first dc), dc into the same st, (dc-inc) x29, slst into the first st to join the rnd [60]

Use the invisible finish and leave a short tail to weave in.

ASSEMBLY

Beak: Weave the yarn tail toward the back of the beak and sew it on between the eyes, between rnds 10–11. Pinch the beak with your fingers to shape it.

Eyebrows: Cut a long strand of Black embroidery thread and create a diagonal line 1 st wide above each eye, 4 sts apart.

Wings: Sew each wing between rnds 17–18, 12 sts apart.

Feet: Sew each foot spanning rnds 22–24 of the body, 4 sts apart.

Optional: Use a cotton swab and blush to create rosy cheeks.

JOEY
THE MALLARD DUCK

DIFFICULTY

Meet Joey, Gertrude the Grumpy Chick’s boyfriend. He’s a quiet and timid fellow—I suppose the saying “opposites attract” is true. The question is, will Mama Hen approve?

MATERIALS

• Yarn – Hobbii Rainbow Cotton 8/8

⬦ 1 skein of Natural White (002) – 3 g

⬦ 1 skein of Light Brown (006) – 9 g

⬦ 1 skein of Lime (018) light green – 15 g

⬦ 1 skein of Sunny Yellow (055) – 2 g

• DMC 6-Strand Cotton Embroidery Thread

⬦ Black (310)

• 2.75 mm hook

• Two 8 mm safety eyes

• Stuffing

• Scissors

• Yarn needle

• Stitch markers

• Sewing pins

TECHNIQUES

• Magic circle (see page 12)

• Invisible finish (see page 18)

• Color changes (see page 19)

• Closing up a piece (see page 21)

NOTES

This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral.

Refer to Gertrude the Grumpy Chick’s pattern for body base images on page 35.

Measurements:

3.5 in. x 3 in. [~9 cm x ~8 cm] if using the prescribed materials.

HEAD & BODY
Start in Lime yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc, inc, sc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x6 [36]

Rnds 7–10 (4 rnds total): sc all around [36]

Rnd 11: 4 inc, 10 sc, 4 inc, 18 sc [44]

Rnd 12: sc all around [44]

Rnd 13: (20 sc, dec) x2 [42]

Rnd 14: (5 sc, dec) x6 [36]

Rnd 15: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x6 [30]

Rnd 16: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

Rnd 17: (sc, dec, sc) x6 [18]

Change to Natural White yarn and cut the Lime yarn.

Insert the safety eyes between rnds 10–11, 7 sts apart.

Stuff the head and fill out the two cheeks well. Continue on to the body.

Rnd 18: (flo) – (inc) x18 [36]

Rnd 19: sc all around [36]

Change to Light Brown yarn and cut the Natural White yarn.

Rnd 20: (5 sc, inc) x6 [42]

Rnds 21–22 (2 rnds total): sc all around [42]

Rnd 23: (5 sc, dec) x6 [36]

Rnd 24: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x6 [30]

Rnd 25: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

Rnd 26: (sc, dec, sc) x6 [18]

Rnd 27: (sc, dec) x6 [12]

Stuff well. Fasten off and leave a tail for closing up the piece. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

WINGS
Make two in Light Brown yarn

Rnd 1: make a slipknot and ch 5, starting from the second ch from the hook, sc into the next 4 ch, turn and work along the bottom of the ch, sc into the next 4 ch [8]

Rnds 2–3 (2 rnds total): sc all around [8]

Rnd 4: (2 sc, dec) x2 [6]

Rnd 5: sc all around [6]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Do not stuff.

See on page 32.

FEET
Make two in Sunny Yellow yarn

Step 1: Make a slipknot and ch 2, slst into the second ch from the hook and add a stitch marker here (this is the back of the foot).

Step 2: *ch 2, sc into the second ch from the hook, slst into the marked st* (this is the first toe).

Step 3: Repeat the steps between the * * two more times for a total of three toes.

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

See on page 33.

BEAK
In Sunny Yellow yarn

Rnd 1: make a slipknot and ch 5, starting from the second ch from the hook, sc into the next 4 ch, turn and work along the bottom of the ch, sc into the next 4 ch [8]

Rnd 2: sc all around [8]

Use the invisible finish and leave a tail for sewing.

See on page 33.

ASSEMBLY

Beak: Weave the yarn tail toward the back of the beak and sew it on between the eyes, between rnds 10–11. Pinch the beak with your fingers to shape it.

See on page 35.

Eyebrows: Cut a long strand of Black embroidery thread and create a straight line 2 sts wide above each eye, 4 sts apart.

Wings: Sew each wing between rnds 17–18, 12 sts apart. The left wing will hide the color changes on the body.

And see on page 35.

Feet: Sew each foot onto the body, spanning rnds 22–24 of the body, 4 sts apart.

See on page 35.

HENRIETTA
THE HEN

DIFFICULTY

Though her real name is Henrietta, everybody on the farm knows her as “Mama Hen” because of her nurturing character. Don’t be fooled! Though she may be sweet, she can also be spicy when it comes to her “no-nonsense” policy. Mama Hen is none other than Gertrude the Grumpy Chick’s own mother! She must be where Gertrude gets her sassiness from.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Hobbii Friends Cotton 8/8

⬦ 1 skein of White (01) – 26 g

⬦ 1 skein of Sunflower (24) yellow – 2 g

⬦ 1 skein of Pomegranate (41) dark red – .5 g

• 2.75 mm hook

• Two 8 mm safety eyes

• Stuffing

• Scissors

• Yarn needle

• Stitch markers

• Sewing pins

• Tweezers

• Optional: blush and a cotton swab

TECHNIQUES

• Magic circle (see page 12)

• Invisible finish (see page 18)

• Closing up a piece (see page 21)

NOTES

This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral.

Refer to Gertrude the Grumpy Chick’s pattern for body base images on page 35.

Measurements:

3.5 in. x 3 in. [~9 cm x ~8 cm] if using the prescribed materials.

HEAD & BODY
In White yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc, inc, sc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x6 [36]

Rnds 7–10 (4 rnds total): sc all around [36]

Rnd 11: 4 inc, 10 sc, 4 inc, 18 sc [44]

Rnd 12: sc all around [44]

Rnd 13: (20 sc, dec) x2 [42]

Rnd 14: (5 sc, dec) x6 [36]

Rnd 15: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x6 [30]

Rnd 16: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

Rnd 17: (sc, dec, sc) x6 [18]

Insert the safety eyes between rnds 10–11, 7 sts apart.

Stuff the head and fill out the two cheeks well. Continue on the body.

Rnd 18: (flo) – (inc) x18 [36]

Rnd 19: sc all around [36]

Rnd 20: (5 sc, inc) x6 [42]

Rnds 21–22 (2 rnds total): sc all around [42]

Rnd 23: (5 sc, dec) x6 [36]

Rnd 24: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x6 [30]

Rnd 25: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

Rnd 26: (sc, dec, sc) x6 [18]

Rnd 27: (sc, dec) x6 [12]

Stuff well. Fasten off and leave a tail for closing up the piece. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

WINGS
Make two in White yarn

Rnd 1: make a slipknot and ch 5, starting from the second ch from the hook, sc into the next 4 sts, turn and work along the bottom of the chain, sc into the next 4 sts [8]

Rnds 2–3 (2 rnds total): sc all around [8]

Rnd 4: (2 sc, dec) x2 [6]

Rnd 5: sc all around [6]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Do not stuff.

See on page 32.

FEET
Make two in Sunflower yarn

Step 1: Make a slipknot and ch 2, slst into the second ch from the hook and add a stitch marker here (this is the back of the foot).

Step 2: *ch 2, sc into the second ch from the hook, slst into the marked st* (this is the first toe).

Step 3: Repeat the steps between the * * two more times for a total of three toes.

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

See on page 33.

BEAK
In Sunflower yarn

Rnd 1: make a slipknot, ch 5, starting in the second ch from the hook, sc into the next 4 ch, turn and work along the bottom of the ch, sc into the next 4 ch [8]

Rnd 2: sc all around [8]

Use the invisible finish and leave a tail for sewing.

See on page 33.

COMB
In Pomegranate yarn

Make a magic circle, ch 3, dc, ch 3, slst (first bump of the comb), ch 2, hdc, slst (second bump of the comb).

Pull the circle closed. Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

ASSEMBLY

Beak: Weave the yarn tail toward the back of the beak and sew it on between the eyes, between rnds 10–11. Pinch the beak with your fingers to shape it.

See on page 35.

Comb: Sew the comb at the top of the head where the image indicates.

Wings: Sew each wing between rnds 17–18, 12 sts apart.

See on page 35.

Feet: Sew each foot onto the body, spanning rnds 22–24 of the body, 4 sts apart.

See on page 35.

Optional: Use a cotton swab and blush to create rosy cheeks.

See on page 35.

KOA
THE KOALA

DIFFICULTY

Koa is as sweet as he is trustworthy. His favorite beverage to enjoy is the probiotic yogurt drink with the red tin foil lid—especially when they are frozen. He enjoys climbing as high as he can on his favorite eucalyptus tree to view the vast forest. When he’s not busy climbing, he enjoys reading his favorite novels about wizardry and mystical creatures like dragons.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Hobbii Friends Cotton 8/8

⬦ 1 skein of Silver (118) gray – 49 g

⬦ 1 skein of Charcoal (123) dark gray – 2 g

• Yarn: Hobbii Peacock

⬦ 1 skein of Pure White – 3 g

» Note: Since a very small amount of this yarn is needed, you can substitute white felt or brushed-out acrylic yarn for this.

• 2.75 mm hook

• Two 5 mm x 7 mm oval safety eyes

• Stuffing

• Scissors

• Yarn needle

• Stitch markers

• Sewing pins

• Fabric glue

• Optional: blush and a cotton swab

TECHNIQUES

• Magic circle (see page 12)

• Invisible finish (see page 18)

• Crocheting a piece closed (see page 22)

• Right vs. wrong side of stitches (see page 14)

• Closing up a piece (see page 21)

NOTES

This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral.

Measurements:

4 in. x 3.5 in. [~10 cm x ~9 cm] if using the prescribed materials.

HEAD & BODY
In Silver yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc, inc, sc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x6 [36]

Rnds 7–10 (4 rnds total): sc all around [36]

Rnd 11: 4 inc, 10 sc, 4 inc, 18 sc [44]

Rnd 12: sc all around [44]

Rnd 13: (20 sc, dec) x2 [42]

Rnd 14: (5 sc, dec) x6 [36]

Rnd 15: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x6 [30]

Rnd 16: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

Rnd 17: (sc, dec, sc) x6 [18]

Insert the safety eyes between rnds 10–11, 7 sts apart.

Stuff the head and fill out the two cheeks well. Continue on to the body.

Rnd 18: (flo) – (sc, inc) x9 [27]

Rnd 19: (8 sc, inc) x3 [30]

Rnd 20: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x6 [36]

Rnds 21–25 (5 rnds total): sc all around [36]

Rnd 26: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x6 [30]

Rnd 27: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

Rnd 28: (sc, dec, sc) x6 [18]

Rnd 29: (sc, dec) x6 [12]

Stuff well. Fasten off and leave a tail for closing up the piece. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

OUTER EARS
Make two in Silver yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (8 sc, inc) x2 [20]

Rnd 5: (3 sc, dec) x4 [16]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Do not stuff.

INNER EARS
Make two in Peacock (fluffy) Pure White yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x5 [5]

Cut the yarn and pull up the tail. Do not ch 1 to fasten off. The inner ears should make a C shape.

LIMBS
Make four in Silver yarn

For two of the limbs, leave a long yarn tail before beginning the magic circle. These will be used for sewing the paws together.

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnds 3–12 (10 rnds total): sc all around [12]

Rnd 13: (2 sc, dec) x3 [9]

Lightly stuff. Flatten the opening and make ~4 sc through both layers to close up the piece. Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

NOSE
In Charcoal yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (2 sc, inc) x2 [8]

Rnd 3: (3 sc, inc) x2 [10]

Use the invisible finish and leave a tail for sewing.

ASSEMBLY

Nose: Going through the blo, sew the nose onto the face, spanning rnds 10–13. When you have a couple of sts remaining, lightly stuff it with yarn scraps.

Arms:

Step 1: Use one of the limbs with the long yarn tail as the front arm. Align it with the right side of the nose and sew it down spanning rnds 18–21 of the body.

Step 2: Sew the two paws together with the long yarn tail. Then, sew the other arm down on the backside along the same rnds. (Don’t worry, it doesn’t matter too much how many spaces apart they are.)

*Tip: Sewing the paws together first will help determine the placement of the limbs at the back of the body.

Legs: Similarly, use the other limb with the long yarn tail as the front leg. Align the legs with the arms spanning rnds 24–27 of the body.

Blush: Use a cotton swab and blush to create rosy cheeks.

BAOZI
THE PANDA

DIFFICULTY

Baozi (or Bao for short) is what a walking hug would look like. He loves to tuck in his limbs and roll around his bamboo forest home. He believes that all life is precious and wouldn’t hurt a fly. A warm-hearted softie he truly is!

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Hobbii Friends Cotton 8/8

⬦ 1 skein of White (01) – 25 g

⬦ 1 skein of Charcoal (123) dark gray – 25 g

• DMC 6-Strand Cotton Embroidery Thread

⬦ Pewter Gray (317)

⬦ Snow White (5200)

• 2.75 mm and 1.50 mm hooks

• 10 mm safety nose

• Stuffing

• Scissors

• Yarn needle

• Stitch markers

• Sewing pins

• Tweezers

• Fabric glue

TECHNIQUES

• Magic circle (see page 12)

• Invisible finish (see page 18)

• Color changes (see page 19)

• Crocheting a piece closed (see page 22)

• Right vs. wrong side of stitches (see page 14)

• Oval spiral (see page 25)

• Closing up a piece (see page 21)

NOTES

This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral and the feet are made using oval spirals.

The whole pattern is crocheted with a 2.75 mm hook with the exception of the eye patches that use a 1.50 mm hook. Micro-crocheting can be a more advanced skill. Be patient with yourself and work slowly and carefully.

Measurements:

6 in. x 3.5 in. [~15 cm x ~9 cm] if using the prescribed materials.

HEAD
In White yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc, inc, sc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x6 [36]

Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 [42]

Rnds 8–11 (4 rnds total): sc all around [42]

Rnd 12: (3 sc, inc, 3 sc) x6 [48]

Rnds 13–14 (2 rnds total): sc all around [48]

Rnd 15: (3 sc, dec, 3 sc) x6 [42]

Rnd 16: (5 sc, dec) x6 [36]

Rnd 17: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x6 [30]

Rnd 18: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

Stuff well.

Rnd 19: (blo) – (sc, dec, sc) x6 [18]

*Note: The remaining loops will be used to crochet the body. Closing up the head instead of directly going into the body will ensure that the stuffing stays in place and that the cheeks stay plump!

Rnd 20: (sc, dec) x6 [12]

Stuff one last time, using tweezers to get into the narrow opening.

Fasten off and leave a tail for closing up the piece. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

BODY
Start in Charcoal yarn

Holding the head upside down, insert your hook into one of the loops closer to you from rnd 19. Make a slipknot in Charcoal yarn and join the new yarn.

Rnd 1: (flo) – (inc) x24 [48]

Rnds 2–4 (3 rnds total): sc all around [48]

Change to White yarn. Do not cut the Charcoal yarn.

Rnds 5–8 (4 rnds total): sc all around [48]

Rnd 9: (7 sc, inc) x6 [54]

Change to Charcoal yarn and cut the White yarn.

Rnds 10–13 (4 rnds total): sc all around [54]

Rnd 14: (7 sc, dec) x6 [48]

Rnd 15: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x8 [40]

Rnd 16: (3 sc, dec) x8 [32]

Rnd 17: (sc, dec, sc) x8 [24]

Stuff well.

Rnd 18: (sc, dec) x8 [16]

Stuff one last time, using the tweezers to get into the narrow opening.

Fasten off and leave a tail for closing up the piece. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

MUZZLE
In White yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (3 sc, inc) x3 [15]

Use the invisible finish and leave a tail for sewing. Insert the safety nose between rnds 2–3.

EYE PATCHES
Make two in Pewter Gray embroidery thread and a 1.50 mm hook

Rnd 1: make a slipknot and ch 6, starting from the second ch from the hook, sc into the next 4 ch, make 3 sc into the next ch, turn and work along the bottom of the chain, sc into the next 3 ch, inc into last ch and slst into the first st of the rnd [12]

*Note: The new rnd starts after the slst.

Rnd 2: (3 sc, 3 inc), repeat [18]

Use the invisible finish and leave a short tail. You will embroider the eyes on later and secure the patches onto the face with fabric glue. If you prefer to sew, leave a longer tail.

EARS
Make two in Charcoal yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and ch 2 (this will count as the first st), (hdc) x6, ch 2, slst into the center [8]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

ARMS
Make two in Charcoal yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (3 sc, inc) x3 [15]

Rnds 4–15 (12 rnds total): sc all around [15]

Lightly stuff. Flatten the opening and make ~7 sc through both layers to close up the piece.

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

LEGS
Make two in Charcoal yarn

Rnd 1: make a slipknot and ch 7, starting from the second ch from the hook, sc into the next 5 ch, make 3 sc into the next ch, turn and work along the bottom of the chain, sc into the next 4 ch, inc into the last ch, slst into the first st [14]

Rnd 2: (4 sc, 3 inc) x2 [20]

Rnd 3: (3 sc, inc) x5 [25]

Rnd 4: 4 sc, (sc, dec) x3, 12 sc [22]

Rnd 5: (sc, dec) x5, 7 sc [17]

Rnd 6: 3 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 8 sc [15]

Rnds 7–15 (9 rnds total): sc all around [15]

Lightly stuff. Make ~7 sc (adjust as needed) to reach the front of the foot (aligned with the toes). Then flatten the opening and make ~7 sc through both layers to close up the piece.

ASSEMBLY

*Tip: You will position the arm over the body where the color changes were made. Once that area is determined, mark the line of symmetry down the panda’s body with sewing pins before attaching pieces.

Arms: Position each arm at a slight angle, spanning rnds 1–4 of the body (spanning the Charcoal part), 18 sts apart on the belly side. For the second arm, weave the yarn tail to the paws and sew them together.

Legs: Align the legs with the arms and sew them on, 6 sts apart on the belly side. Secure the inner legs against the body.

Muzzle: Center the muzzle with the limbs (with the nose on the top) and sew it on, spanning rnds 10–14 of the head. When you have about 3 sts remaining, lightly stuff it with yarn scraps.

Eye Patches:

Step 1: Cut 15 in. [~38 cm] of Snow White embroidery thread.

Step 2: Weave from the ws to the rs and leave a short tail to tie into a knot at the end.

Step 3: Embroider each eye onto the inner corners of the patches, 2 sts tall. Weave over several times to create a rounder shape.

Step 4: Secure the yarn tails into a knot on the ws of the patches.

Step 5: Glue the eye patches at a slight angle onto the face, spanning rnds 9–14, touching the sides of the muzzle.

Ears: Align the ears with the limbs and then sew them onto the head, spanning rnds 5–7, 20 sts apart.

SHREDDER
THE SHARK

DIFFICULTY

Shredder is the sweetest shark you’ll ever meet. Don’t judge a book by its cover—despite his sharp teeth and scary appearance, Shredder prefers sweets over anything!

MATERIALS

• Yarn – Hobbii Friends Cotton 8/8

⬦ 1 skein of Silver (118) – 30 g

⬦ 1 skein of White (01) – 15 g

• DMC 6-Strand Cotton Embroidery Thread

⬦ Black (310)

• 2.75 mm hook

• Two 7 mm safety eyes

• Stuffing

• Scissors

• Yarn needle

• Stitch markers

• Sewing pins

• Tweezers

SPECIAL TERMS

• cc: contrast color – White

• mc: main color – Silver

TECHNIQUES

• Magic circle (see page 12)

• Invisible finish (see page 18)

• Color changes (see page 19)

• Crocheting a piece closed (see page 22)

• Yarn over vs. yarn under (see page 15)

• Closing up a piece (see page 21)

NOTES

This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral.

This pattern uses the “yarning under” method of crocheting to prevent the start of the round from shifting too much. If you choose to “yarn over,” expect the White belly to rotate much more than in the images.

The White color changes for the belly will stagger to keep it centered.

Measurements:

7.5 in. x 2.5 in. [~19 cm x ~6 cm] if using the prescribed materials.

HEAD & BODY
Start in Silver yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x3 [9]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc, sc) x3 [12]

Rnd 4: (3 sc, inc) x3 [15]

Rnd 5: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x3 [18]

The color changes for the face will begin in the next rnd. (mc) = Silver, (cc) = White

Instead of carrying the yarn over (which is a crochet technique typically used for tapestry wall hangings or garments), let it hang with some slack before picking it up again. This will allow for cleaner color changes, since you won’t be able to see the wrong side of the work anyway.

Rnd 6: (mc) (2 sc, inc) x2, (cc) (2 sc, inc) x2, (mc) (2 sc, inc) x2 [24]

Rnd 7: (mc) 3 sc, inc, 4 sc, (cc) sc into the same st (this will count as an inc), (3 sc, inc) x2, (mc) (3 sc, inc) x2 [30]

Rnd 8: (mc) 9 sc, (cc) inc, 9 sc, inc, sc, (mc) 8 sc, inc [33]

Rnd 9: (mc) 5 sc, inc, 3 sc, (cc) 7 sc, inc, 6 sc, (mc) 4 sc, inc, 5 sc [36]

Rnds 10–11 (2 rnds total): (mc) 10 sc, (cc) 15 sc, (mc) 11 sc [36]

Rnd 12: (mc) 8 sc, inc, sc, (cc) 15 sc, (mc) sc, inc, 8 sc, inc [39]

Rnd 13: (mc) inc, 4 sc, inc, 5 sc, (cc) 15 sc, (mc) 5 sc, inc, 7 sc [42]

Rnds 14–18 (5 rnds total): (mc) 13 sc, (cc) 15 sc, (mc) 14 sc [42]

Insert the safety eyes between rnds 7–8, 1 st above the Silver and White color changes.

Stuff well. Continue to stuff as you work.

Rnd 19: (mc) 5 sc, dec, 6 sc, (cc) 7 sc, dec, 6 sc, (mc) 6 sc, dec, 5 sc [39]

Rnd 20: (mc) 3 sc, dec, 8 sc, (cc) 7 sc, dec, 5 sc, (mc) 7 sc, dec, 3 sc [36]

Rnd 21: (mc) 10 sc, dec, (cc) 10 sc, dec, sc, (mc) 9 sc, dec [33]

Rnd 22: (mc) 10 sc, dec, (cc) 9 sc, dec, sc, (mc) 7 sc, dec [30]

Rnd 23: (mc) 11 sc, (cc) 11 sc, (mc) 8 sc [30]

Rnd 24: (mc) 8 sc, dec, sc, (cc) 8 sc, dec, sc, (mc) 6 sc, dec [27]

Rnd 25: (mc) 11 sc, (cc) 10 sc, (mc) 6 sc [27]

Rnd 26: (mc) 7 sc, dec, 2 sc, (cc) 5 sc, dec, 3 sc, (mc) 4 sc, dec [24]

Rnd 27: (mc) 11 sc, (cc) 8 sc, (mc) 5 sc [24]

Rnd 28: (mc) dec, 5 sc, dec, 2 sc, (cc) 8 sc, (mc) 5 sc [22]

Make an additional sc. The new start of the rnd comes after this st.

Rnd 29: (mc) 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, (cc) 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, (mc) 6 sc [20]

Rnd 30: (mc) dec, 6 sc, (cc) 6 sc, (mc) 6 sc [19]

Rnd 31: (mc) 7 sc, (cc) 6 sc, (mc) 4 sc, dec [18]

Rnd 32: (mc) dec, 5 sc, (cc) 6 sc, (mc) 5 sc [17]

Rnd 33: (mc) dec, 5 sc, (cc) 6 sc, (mc) 4 sc [16]

Rnd 34: (mc) dec, 4 sc, (cc) dec, 2 sc, dec, (mc) 2 sc, dec [12]

Rnd 35: (mc) dec, 3 sc, (cc) dec, 2 sc, (mc) sc, dec [9]

Stuff one last time, using tweezers to get into the narrow opening.

Cut off the White yarn and continue the next step in only Silver.

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed. Leave the remainder of the tail for sewing on the tail fins.

DORSAL FIN
In Silver yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x4 [4]

Rnd 2: sc, 2 inc, sc [6]

Rnd 3: sc, 3 inc, 2 sc [9]

Rnd 4: sc all around [9]

Rnd 5: (2 sc, inc) x3 [12]

Rnd 6: (3 sc, inc) x3 [15]

Rnds 7–8 (2 rnds total): sc all around [15]

Do not stuff. Flatten the opening and make ~7 sc through both layers to close up the fin.

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Bend the tip to shape it.

PECTORAL FINS
Make two in Silver yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x4 [4]

Rnd 2: sc, 2 inc, sc [6]

Rnd 3: sc, 3 inc, 2 sc [9]

Rnd 4: sc all around [9]

Rnd 5: (2 sc, inc) x3 [12]

Rnd 6: sc all around [12]

Rnds 7–8 (2 rnds total): dec, 4 sc, inc, 5 sc [12]

Rnd 9: sc all around [12]

Do not stuff. If needed, make an additional sc to reach the side of the fin. Flatten the opening and make ~5 sc through both layers to close up the fin.

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

TAIL FIN
In Silver yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x4 [4]

Rnd 2: 2 inc, 2 sc [6]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x2, 2 sc [8]

Rnd 4: (sc, inc) x2, 4 sc [10]

Rnd 5: 3 sc, inc, 6 sc [11]

Rnd 6: 4 sc, inc, 6 sc [12]

Rnd 7: 5 sc, inc, 6 sc [13]

Rnd 8: 6 sc, inc, 6 sc [14]

Rnd 9: dec, 3 sc, (sc, inc) x2, 3 sc, dec [14]

Rnd 10: sc all around [14]

Rnd 11: dec, 3 sc, (sc, inc) x2, 3 sc, dec [14]

*Note: This is one half of the tail fin.

Rnd 12: inc, 3 sc, 3 dec, 3 sc, inc [13]

Rnd 13: 2 inc, 2 sc, 2 dec, 3 sc, 2 inc [15]

Rnd 14: sc all around [15]

Rnd 15: (3 sc, dec) x3 [12]

Rnd 16: 4 sc, dec, sc, dec, 3 sc [10]

Rnd 17: (3 sc, dec) x2 [8]

Rnd 18: (2 sc, dec) x2 [6]

Fasten off and leave a short tail for closing up the piece. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed. Bend the tail fin to make it more angular.

SECOND DORSAL/ANAL FINS
Make two in Silver yarn

Make a slipknot and ch 2, make 2 sc into the second ch from the hook.

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

ASSEMBLY

*Tip: Find the line of symmetry on the shark’s body by using the face as a reference point. I like to mark the midline with sewing pins before attaching pieces.

Dorsal Fin: Sew the dorsal fin onto the body, spanning rnds 22–28.

Tail Fin: Use the yarn tail left from the body to sew the tail, spanning rnds 12–13 (right below the halfway mark).

Pectoral Fins: Sew each fin onto the body, spanning rnds 16–21 where the Silver and White colors meet.

Second Dorsal/Anal Fins: Align the second dorsal fin with the first and sew it 2 rnds away from the tail. Sew the anal fin on the belly side 3 rnds away from the tail.

Gills:

Step 1: Cut a strand of Black embroidery thread and separate 4 strands. Set aside the other 2 strands.

Step 2: Weave into the side of the head.

Step 3: Come out between rnds 11–12 and create the first line 2 sts tall where the Silver and White colors meet.

Step 4: Weave 1 rnd over between rnds 12–13 and create the second line 4 sts tall.

*Note: Depending on your color changes, you may need to make it 5 sts tall to make the height difference more noticeable.

Step 5: Similarly, weave 1 rnd over between rnds 13–14 and create the third line 2 sts tall.

Step 6: Repeat steps 3–5 for the other side of the head.

Step 7: Weave the thread out of where you entered from and secure a knot. Bury the excess tails.

Nostrils:

Step 1: Using the two strands of Black embroidery thread, weave into the side of the head.

Step 2: Embroider each nostril between rnds 2–3, 1 st wide and 2 sts apart.

Step 3: Weave the thread out of where you entered from and secure a knot. Bury the excess tails.

TOMMY
THE TURKEY

DIFFICULTY

Can you guess what Tommy the Turkey’s favorite holiday is? Well, it certainly isn’t Thanksgiving. He prefers his Tofurkey, thank you very much.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Hobbii Rainbow Cotton 8/8

⬦ 1 skein of Brown (007) – 30 g

⬦ 1 skein of Natural White (002) – 2 g

⬦ 1 skein of Sunny Yellow (055) – 2 g

⬦ 1 skein of Christmas Red (086) – .5 g

• DMC 6-Strand Cotton Embroidery Thread

⬦ Black (310)

• 2.75 mm hook

• Two 5 mm x 7 mm oval safety eyes

• Stuffing

• Scissors

• Yarn needle

• Stitch markers

• Sewing pins

• Fabric glue

TECHNIQUES

• Magic circle (see page 12)

• Invisible finish (see page 18)

• Color changes (see page 19)

• Crocheting a piece closed (see page 22)

• Yarn over vs. yarn under (see page 15)

• Closing up a piece (see page 21)

SPECIAL STITCHES

SPsc: spike stitch – Yarn over for this special stitch instead of yarning under. To make a spike stitch, insert the hook into the stitch of the round below. Pull up the loop to the height of the current round you are on and make a single crochet stitch as you normally would.

NOTES

This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral.

Refer to Gertrude the Grumpy Chick’s pattern for body base images on page 35.

This pattern uses the “yarning under” method of crocheting for everything but the last rnd of the tail. This is because the spike stitch requires yarning over.

Measurements:

3.5 in. x 3 in. [~9 cm x ~8 cm] if using the prescribed materials.

HEAD & BODY
In Brown yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc, inc, sc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x6 [36]

Rnds 7–10 (4 rnds total): sc all around [36]

Rnd 11: 4 inc, 10 sc, 4 inc, 18 sc [44]

Rnd 12: sc all around [44]

Rnd 13: (20 sc, dec) x2 [42]

Rnd 14: (5 sc, dec) x6 [36]

Rnd 15: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x6 [30]

Rnd 16: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

Rnd 17: (sc, dec, sc) x6 [18]

Insert the safety eyes between rnds 10–11, 7 sts apart.

Stuff the head and fill the two cheeks out well. Continue on to the body.

Rnd 18: (flo) – (inc) x18 [36]

Rnd 19: sc all around [36]

Rnd 20: (5 sc, inc) x6 [42]

Rnds 21–22 (2 rnds total): sc all around [42]

Rnd 23: (5 sc, dec) x6 [36]

Rnd 24: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x6 [30]

Rnd 25: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

Rnd 26: (sc, dec, sc) x6 [18]

Stuff well. Fasten off and leave a tail for closing up the piece. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

WINGS
Make two in Brown yarn

Rnd 1: make a slipknot and ch 5, starting in the second ch from the hook, sc into the next 4 sts, turn and work along the bottom of the chain, sc into the next 4 sts [8]

Rnds 2–3 (2 rnds total): sc all around [8]

Rnd 4: (2 sc, dec) x2 [6]

Rnd 5: sc all around [6]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Do not stuff.

See on page 32.

FEET
Make two in Sunny Yellow yarn

Step 1: Make a slipknot and ch 2, slst into the second ch from the hook and add a stitch marker here (this is the back of the foot).

Step 2: *ch 2, sc into the second ch from the hook, slst into the marked st* (this is the first toe).

Step 3: Repeat the steps between the * * two more times for a total of three toes.

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

See on page 33.

BEAK
In Sunny Yellow yarn

Rnd 1: make a slipknot and ch 5, starting from the second ch from the hook, sc into the next 4 ch, turn and work along the bottom of the ch, sc into the next 4 ch [8]

Rnd 2: sc all around [8]

Use the invisible finish and leave a tail for sewing.

See on page 33.

WATTLE
In Christmas Red yarn

Make a slipknot and ch 6, hdc into the second ch from the hook, slst into the next 4 sts.

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

TAIL
Start in Brown yarn

Leave a long tail (for sewing the tail to the body) before beginning.

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x5 [5]

Rnd 2: (inc) x5 [10]

Rnd 3: sc all around [10]

Rnd 4: (sc, inc) x5 [15]

Rnd 5: sc all around [15]

Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc) x5 [20]

Rnd 7: sc all around [20]

Rnd 8: (inc) x20 [40]

Change to Natural White yarn and do not cut the Brown yarn.

Rnd 9: sc all around [40]

Change to Brown yarn and do not cut the Natural White yarn.

Rnd 10: sc all around [40]

Bring the Natural White yarn to the outer right side of the tail (mirror this if you are working left-handed). You will pick up this color for the final rnd. Do not stuff.

To make the edges of the tail in the next rnd, fold the piece and sc through both layers.

Rnd 11: (sc, hdc-inc, sc, slst) x5 [25]

Fasten off the Brown yarn. Pick up the Natural White yarn that you left on the outside of the tail and use the yarning over method of crocheting instead of yarning under for the next rnd.

Rnd 12: (4 sc, SPsc) x5 [25]

*Note: View the image to see where to insert your hook for the SPsc.

Fasten off and leave a tail for weaving in.

ASSEMBLY

Tail: Sew the tail onto the back of the body, spanning rnds 21–24. Make sure that the ws of the sts of the last rnd are facing out.

Beak: Weave the yarn tail toward the back of the beak and sew it on between the eyes, between rnds 10–11. Pinch the beak with your fingers to shape it.

See on page 35.

Eyebrows: Cut a long strand of Black embroidery thread and create a diagonal line 1 st wide above each eye, 7 sts apart.

Wattle: Sew or glue the wattle to the top middle of the beak. Secure it onto the face at the bottom as well.

Wings: Sew each wing between rnds 17–18, 12 sts apart.

See on page 35.

Feet: Sew each foot onto the body, spanning rnds 22–24 of the body, 4 sts apart.

See on page 35.

SAMSON & SCOUT
THE SPIDERS

DIFFICULTY

Though they are best friends, Samson and Scout are as different as can be. While Samson (the black spider) is a true introvert and prefers to enjoy his time alone whenever possible, Scout thrives off of good times and good vibes. She loves to chat it up with strangers big and small—and doesn’t mind drawing the attention of many admirers.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Hobbii Rainbow Cotton 8/8

⬦ 1 skein of Black (124) – 30g OR

⬦ 1 skein of Black Currant (71) dark purple – 21g

⬦ 1 skein of Cool Iris (72) light purple – 9g

• 2.75 mm hook

• Two 9 mm and two 6 mm safety eyes

• Stuffing

• 4 pipe cleaners

• Scissors

• Yarn needle

• Stitch markers

• Sewing pins

• Tweezers

• Optional: gold spray paint or nail polish for the eyes

TECHNIQUES

• Magic circle (see page 12)

• Color changes (see page 19)

• Closing up a piece (see page 21)

NOTES

This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral.

This pattern involves working in a narrow tube for each of the legs, which can be a more advanced skill. Be patient with yourself and work slowly and carefully.

When making the solid black spider, skip the instructions for color changes.

Measurements:

6 in. x 5 in. [~15 cm x ~13 cm] if using the prescribed materials.

BODY
Start in Black Currant yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x3 [9]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc, sc) x3 [12]

Change to Cool Iris yarn.

Rnd 4: (3 sc, inc) x3 [15]

Rnd 5: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x3 [18]

Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc) x6 [24]

Change to Black Currant yarn.

Rnd 7: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 8: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x6 [36]

Rnd 9: (5 sc, inc) x6 [42]

Change to Cool Iris yarn.

Rnds 10–12 (3 rnds total): sc all around [42]

Change to Black Currant yarn.

Rnd 13: (5 sc, dec) x6 [36]

Rnd 14: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x6 [30]

Rnd 15: sc all around [30]

Change to Cool Iris yarn and cut the Black Currant yarn.

Rnd 16: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

Rnd 17: sc all around [24]

Rnd 18: (2 sc, dec) x6 [18]

Stuff well. Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing the body to the head.

HEAD
In Black Currant yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x8 [8]

Rnd 2: (inc) x8 [16]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x8 [24]

Rnd 4: (sc, inc, sc) x8 [32]

Rnds 5–10 (6 rnds total): sc all around [32]

Insert the 9 mm eyes between rnds 6–7, 6 sts apart. Insert the 6 mm eyes 3 sts away from the bigger eyes.

Rnd 11: (sc, dec, sc) x8 [24]

Rnd 12: (sc, dec) x8 [16]

Stuff well.

Rnd 13: (dec) x8 [8]

Stuff one last time, using tweezers to get through the narrow opening. Fasten off and leave a tail for closing up the piece. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

PINCERS
Make two in Black Currant yarn

Make a slipknot and ch 3. Starting from the second ch from the hook, sc into the next 2 ch.

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

1ST PAIR OF LEGS
Make two; start in Cool Iris yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x5 [5]

Rnds 2–3 (2 rnds total): sc all around [5]

Change to Black Currant yarn.

Rnds 4–5 (2 rnds total): sc all around [5]

Change to Cool Iris yarn.

Rnds 6–8 (3 rnds total): sc all around [5]

Change to Black Currant yarn and cut the Cool Iris yarn.

Rnds 9–10 (2 rnds total): sc all around [5]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Cut a pipe cleaner double the length of the leg. Fold it and insert it in. Do not stuff any of the legs.

2ND PAIR OF LEGS
Make two in Black Currant yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x5 [5]

Rnds 2–14 (13 rnds total): sc all around [5]

Fasten off and follow the finishing steps for the 1st pair of legs.

3RD PAIR OF LEGS
Make two; start in Cool Iris yarn

*Note: For rnds 1–10, follow the instructions for the 1st pair of legs. Then continue with the steps below.

Change to Cool Iris yarn.

Rnds 11–13 (3 rnds total): sc all around [5]

Change to Black Currant yarn.

Rnds 14–15 (2 rnds total): sc all around [5]

Change to Cool Iris yarn and cut the Black Currant yarn.

Rnds 16–18 (3 rnds total): sc all around [5]

Fasten off and follow the finishing steps for the 1st pair of legs.

4TH PAIR OF LEGS
Make two in Black Currant yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x5 [5]

Rnd 2–18 (17 rnds total): sc all around [5]

Fasten off and follow the finishing steps for the 1st pair of legs.

ASSEMBLY

Pincers: Sew the pincers onto the head between rnds 7–8, 2 sts apart.

Head & Body: The head will be sewn perpendicular to the body. Use the yarn tail from the body to sew it onto the head, spanning rnds 6–10.

Legs:

*Note: The shortest legs are the “1st pair” and the longest legs are the “4th pair.”

Step 1: Start by sewing the first pair of legs between rnds 8–9 of the head, 1 st away from each side of the pincers.

Step 2: Sew the remaining legs side by side, 1 st apart. The 4th pair of legs should be sewn as close to the body as possible.

Step 3: Bend all the legs into a zigzag shape so that each leg has 3 sections. For more structure, sew the 4th pair of legs onto the body in its bent position where the image indicates.

SEA OTTER
FAMILY

DIFFICULTY

Did you know that sea otters and river otters are different? For one thing, sea otters are around three times the size of river otters! They also rarely come ashore and have the densest fur of all animals. They’re known to link paws as they sleep to avoid drifting away from each other.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Hobbii Friends Cotton 8/8

⬦ Note: The amounts for Oatmilk and Chocolate yarn are for one otter.

⬦ 1 skein of Oatmilk (03) cream – 15 g

⬦ 1 skein of Cappuccino (10) medium brown – 7 g

⬦ 1 skein of Chocolate (12) dark brown – 25 g

• 2.75 mm hook

• DMC 6-Strand Cotton Embroidery Thread

⬦ Black Brown (3371)

• Stuffing

• 1 pipe cleaner

• Scissors

• Yarn needle

• Stitch markers

• Sewing pins

• Tweezers

• Fabric glue

SPECIAL STITCH

• bo: (bobble stitch) — yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, draw loop back through stitch, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops. Repeat this 3 more times until you have 5 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all 5 loops.

TECHNIQUES

• Magic circle (see page 12)

• Invisible finish (see page 18)

• Right vs. wrong side of stitches (see page 14)

• Crocheting a piece closed (see page 22)

• Closing up a piece (see page 21)

NOTES

This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral with the exception of the baby otter’s tail.

Measurements:

Adult Otter Measurements: 6 in. x 2.5 in. [~15 cm x ~6 cm]

Baby Otter Measurements: 2.5 in. x 1 in. [~6.5 cm x ~1.5 cm]

HEAD & BODY
In Oatmilk yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc, inc, sc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x6 [36]

Rnds 7–10 (4 rnds total): sc all around [36]

Rnd 11: (sc, inc) x6, 24 sc [42]

Rnds 12–13 (2 rnds total): sc all around [42]

Rnd 14: (5 sc, dec) x6 [36]

Rnd 15: (4 sc, dec) x6 [30]

Rnd 16: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

Rnd 17: (2 sc, dec) x6 [18]

Change to Chocolate yarn and cut the Oatmilk yarn.

Stuff the head well. Be sure to fill out the cheeks and continue to stuff the body as you work.

Rnd 18: (flo) – sc all around [18]

Rnd 19: (sc, inc, sc) x6 [24]

Rnd 20: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]

Rnds 21–31 (11 rnds total): sc all around [30]

Rnd 32: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

Rnd 33: (sc, dec, sc) x6 [18]

Rnd 34: (sc, dec) x6 [12]

Stuff one last time, using tweezers to get through the narrow opening. Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

EARS
Make two in Chocolate yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x5 [5]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

*Note: The ear will create a semicircle.

NOSE
In Chocolate yarn

Rnd 1: make a slipknot and ch 4, starting in the second ch from the hook, sc in the next 2 sts, make 3 sc into the next st, turn and work along the bottom of the ch, sc into the next st, inc into the last st, slst into the first st [8]

*Note: The new rnd starts after the slst.

Rnd 2: sc all around [8]

Leave a tail for sewing. Cut the Chocolate yarn and use the invisible finish.

ARMS
Make two in Chocolate yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x10 [10]

Rnds 2–9 (8 rnds total): sc all around [10]

Lightly stuff. Flatten the opening and make ~5 sc through both layers to close up each arm.

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

LEGS
Make two in Chocolate yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x10 [10]

Rnds 2–3 (2 rnds total): sc all around [10]

Rnd 4: (3 sc, dec) x2 [8]

Rnd 5: sc all around [8]

Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x2 [6]

Lightly stuff. Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

TAIL
In Chocolate yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x3 [3]

Rnd 2: (inc) x3 [6]

Rnd 3: sc all around [6]

Rnd 4: (sc, inc) x3 [9]

Rnds 5–9 (5 rnds total): sc all around [9]

Fold a pipe cleaner and insert it into the tail to give it shape. Lightly stuff around it. Flatten the opening and make ~4 sc through both layers to close up the fin. Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

ASSEMBLY

*Tip: Find the line of symmetry on the otter’s body by using the cheeks as a reference point. I like to mark the midline with sewing pins before attaching pieces.

Nose: Glue or sew the nose on, spanning rnds 10–12.

Eyes: Cut a long strand of Black Brown embroidery thread and embroider two eyes on rnd 10, 1 st tall and 1 st away from each side of the nose.

Ears: Sew each ear on, spanning rnds 6–7 on both sides of the head.

Mouth: Separate 2 strands from your embroidery thread (if it is 6 stranded) and embroider a line for the mouth spanning rnds 13–14, right under the nose.

*Tip: For smoother attachment, sew each limb with the rs of the sc sts (which you made to close the piece) facing against the body. The ws of those sts should face you.

Arms: Position the arms so that the hands touch at the center of the body and sew them along rnds 18–22. Sew the arms against the body near the paws.

*Note: For the mom otter, leave a gap 6 sts wide (on the belly side) so that the baby can lay on her.

Feet: Sew the feet along rnds 25–30, 6 sts apart on the belly side.

Tail: Sew the tail onto the back of the body between rnds 31–32. Bend it to give it a curved shape.

BABY OTTER

HEAD & BODY
In Oatmilk yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnds 4–6 (3 rnds total): sc all around [18]

Rnd 7: (sc, dec) x6 [12]

Change to Cappuccino yarn and cut the Oatmilk yarn.

Rnd 8: (flo) – sc all around [12]

Rnd 9: sc all around [12]

Rnd 10: 4 sc, bo, 2 sc, bo, 4 sc [12]

Rnds 11–12 (2 rnds total): sc all around [12]

*Note: Because you are working in a spiral, add or undo a couple sts as needed to align the legs with the arms.

Rnd 13: 4 sc, bo, 2 sc, bo, 2 sc, (blo) –2 sc [12]

Stuff.

Rnd 14: (blo) – 2 sc, (both loops) – 10 sc [12]

Rnd 15: (dec) x6 [6]

Fasten off and leave a tail for closing the piece. Stuff one last time, using tweezers to get into the narrow opening. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

TAIL
In Cappuccino yarn

*Note: The tail will be worked in rows, not rounds. Hold the otter upside down and join the new yarn.

Row 1: make 4 sc in the loops left from rnd 14, do not ch 1, turn [4]

Row 2: skip the first st, 3 sc, turn [3]

Row 3: skip the first st, 2 sc, turn [2]

Row 4: skip the first st, sc [1]

Fasten off and leave a short tail for weaving in.

EARS
Make two in Cappuccino yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and 2 sc [2]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

Sew each ear onto the head, spanning rnds 3–4 of the head, 7 sts apart.

FACIAL FEATURES

*Note: Cut a long strand of Black Brown embroidery thread for both the nose and eyes. If you have the kind that has 6 strands, unravel 2 strands to use.

Nose: Embroider the nose between rnds 5–6, centered between the arms, 1 st wide. Weave over it several times to make the nose thicker.

Eyes: Embroider each sleepy eye between rnds 5–6, 1 st wide and 1 st away from both sides of the nose.

MILO
THE MONKEY

DIFFICULTY

Meet Milo, the playful monkey who’s always, well . . . monkeying around! He enjoys playing pranks on the bigger apes like creating booby traps and snickering at their demise. They say that he’ll pay for his actions one day—that is, if they can ever catch him.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Hobbii Rainbow Cotton 8/8

⬦ 1 skein of Light Brown (006) – 45 g

⬦ 1 skein of Almond (089) cream – 20 g

• DMC 6-Strand Cotton Embroidery Thread

⬦ Black (310)

• 3 pipe cleaners

• 2.75 mm hook

• Two 5 x 7 oval mm safety eyes

• Stuffing

• Scissors

• Yarn needle

• Stitch markers

• Sewing pins

• Fabric glue

• Tweezers

• Optional: blush and a cotton swab

SPECIAL TERMS

• cc: contrast color – Almond

• mc: main color – Light Brown

TECHNIQUES

• Magic circle (see page 12)

• Color changes (see page 19)

• Closing up a piece (see page 21)

SPECIAL STITCHES

• bo: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, draw loop back through stitch, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops. Repeat this 3 more times until you have 5 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all 5 loops.

NOTES

This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral.

This pattern involves working in a narrow tube for each of the legs, which can be a more advanced skill. Be patient with yourself and work slowly and carefully.

Bend the limbs and tail into all sorts of fun poses!

Measurements:

6.5 in. x 6 in. [~17 cm x ~15 cm] if using the prescribed materials.

HEAD & BODY
Start in Light Brown yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc, inc, sc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x6 [36]

The color changes for the face will begin in the next rnd. (mc) = Light Brown, (cc) = Almond

Instead of carrying the yarn over (which is a crochet technique typically used for tapestry wall hangings or garments), let it hang with some slack before picking it up again. This will allow for cleaner color changes, since you won’t be able to see the wrong side of the work anyway.

Rnd 7: (mc) 10 sc, (cc) 3 sc, (mc) 2 sc, (cc) 3 sc, (mc) 18 sc [36]

Rnd 8: (mc) 9 sc, (cc) 10 sc, (mc) 17 sc [36]

Rnds 9–10 (2 rnds total): (mc) 8 sc, (cc) 12 sc, (mc) 16 sc [36]

Rnd 11: (mc) 6 sc, 2 inc, (cc) 2 inc, 8 sc, 2 inc, (mc) 2 inc, 14 sc [44]

Rnd 12: (mc) 10 sc, (cc) 16 sc, (mc) 18 sc [44]

Rnd 13: (mc) 6 sc, dec, 3 sc, (cc) 14 sc, (mc) 2 sc, dec, 15 sc [42]

Rnd 14: (mc) 5 sc, dec, 4 sc, (cc) sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 2 sc, (mc) 3 sc, dec, (5 sc, dec) x2 [36]

Rnd 15: (mc) 2 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, sc, (cc) 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, (mc) sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x2, 2 sc [30]

Continue in Light Brown yarn and cut the Almond yarn.

Rnd 16: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

Insert the safety eyes between rnds 10–11, 6 sts apart. Be sure to center them with the color changes.

Stuff the head and fill out the two cheeks well. Continue on to the body.

Rnd 17: (flo) – sc all around [24]

Rnd 18: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 19: sc all around [30]

Rnd 20: (4 sc, inc) x6 [36]

Rnds 21–24 (4 rnds total): sc all around [36]

Rnd 25: (4 sc, dec) x6 [30]

Rnd 26: sc all around [30]

Rnd 27: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

Stuff.

Rnd 28: (sc, dec, sc) x6 [18]

Rnd 29: (sc, dec) x6 [12]

Stuff one last time, using tweezers to get into the narrow opening. Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing the piece closed. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

EARS
Make two in Almond yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

ARMS
Make two; start in Almond yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x3 [9]

Rnds 3–4 (2 rnds total): sc all around [9]

Rnd 5: bo, 8 sc [9]

Rnd 6: (dec, 2 sc) x2, sc [7]

Change to Light Brown yarn and cut the Almond yarn. Cut a pipe cleaner double the length of the arm and fold it in half. Then insert it down to the hand and do not stuff.

Rnds 7–17 (11 rnds total): sc all around [7]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

*Tip: If the tips of the pipe cleaner are sticking out, fold them into the limb.

LEGS
Make two; start in Almond yarn

Repeat the steps for the arm and stop at rnd 14 for the legs. Follow the finishing steps for the arms as well.

TAIL
In Light Brown yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnds 2–17 (16 rnds total): sc all around [6]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Cut a pipe cleaner double the length of the tail and fold it in half. Insert it into the tail and do not stuff.

ASSEMBLY

Mouth:

Step 1: Cut 15 in. [~38 cm] of Black embroidery thread.

Step 2: Weave into the side of the head and leave a yarn tail to secure into a knot at the end.

Step 3: Come out between rnds 11–12, one st away from the right eye. Weave 1.5 sts over (you will need to go through the middle of the X-shaped stitch).

Step 4: Leave some slack to create the curved line for half of the mouth.

Step 5: Come out one st away from the other eye and weave back into the center to create the other half of the mouth.

Step 6: Secure the curved lines down with fabric glue where the image indicates.

Step 7: Weave back out of where you entered from. Then, secure the thread tails into a knot and bury the excess.

Ears: Sew each ear onto the head, spanning rnds 10–11, 1 st away from where the face is.

Arms: Sew each arm onto the body, spanning rnds 17–19 of the body, 10 sts apart across the chest.

Legs: Sew each leg onto the body, spanning rnds 27–29, 6 sts apart across the lower belly.

Tail: Sew the tail onto the back of the body, spanning rnds 26–27, centered between the legs.

Optional: Use a cotton swab and blush to create rosy cheeks.

Finishing Touches: If your color changes show the opposite color yarn peeking through, cut a long strand of the respective colors and weave it in between the sts to make it cleaner.

See on page 148.

ORION
THE SEA STAR

DIFFICULTY

Orion the Sea Star is often zoning out at any given moment. What might be considered a “no-brainer” is literally quite so for him since he lacks a brain! Nevertheless, he is still adored by other ocean creatures for being the shining star that he is.

MATERIALS

• Yarn – Hobbii Friends Cotton 8/8

⬦ 1 skein of Pastel Green (100) – 15 g

• DMC 6-Strand Cotton Embroidery Thread

⬦ Coral (351)

⬦ Snow White (5200)

• 2.75 mm hook

• Two 4 mm safety eyes

• Stuffing

• Scissors

• Yarn needle

• Stitch markers

• Sewing pins

• Tweezers

• Optional: blush and a cotton swab

TECHNIQUES

• Magic circle (see page 12)

• Closing up a piece (see page 21)

NOTES

This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral.

The first two centers will be made first and then each of the arms will be crocheted onto them, making this a no-sew pattern.

Measurements:

4 in. x 4 in. [~10 cm x ~10 cm] if using the prescribed materials.

CENTER
Make two in Pastel Green yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc, inc, sc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]

Fasten off the first piece and leave a short tail. Do not fasten off on the second piece. Continue on to the arms.

ARMS

*Note: You will make 5 arms; each will consist of 12 sts.

Step 1: Pull up a loop and set your hook to the side.

Step 2: Hold the two star centers together with the rs facing outward and the ws facing inward.

Step 3: Mark the front of the star with a st marker near the center.

Step 4: Count 5 sts and mark the 6th st on both layers with a stitch marker.

Step 5: Turn the piece so that the opposite side is facing you. Again, count 5 sts and mark the 6th st. This will be where the arm will be made.

*Note: Remove the st markers as you work. For the first point, insert your hook back into the loop you left off on.

Rnd 1: sc all around [12]

Rnd 2: (4sc, dec) x2 [10]

Rnd 3: sc all around [10]

Rnd 4: (3 sc, dec) x2 [8]

Rnd 5: sc all around [8]

Rnd 6: (2 sc, dec) x2 [6]

Rnds 7–8 (2 rnds total): sc all around [6]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing each arm closed (which you will do at the very end).

Centering the face with the first point, insert the safety eyes between rnds 2–3, 5 sts apart (when counting directly across the starting rnd).

Step 6: Stuff the arm. When you are finished, make sure that the front of the star is facing you and repeat steps 4–6 for each of the points. Join the new yarn where the image indicates.

Step 7: Use tweezers to stuff the narrow openings with yarn scraps.

Step 8: Stuff the center of the body. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull each tip closed. Use the same tail to sew up the gap between each arm.

ASSEMBLY

Mouth: Cut a long strand of Coral embroidery thread. Aligning the mouth between the eyes, embroider a slightly curved mouth 2 sts wide (going across the center of rnd).

Blush: Use a cotton swab and blush to create rosy cheeks.

Spots: Cut a long strand of Snow White embroidery thread. Embroider ~5 dashes 1 st wide on each arm and secure the tails into a knot.

Shaping: Bend the tip of each arm in one direction to give the sea star some flowy arms.

QUEENIE
THE POLAR BEAR

DIFFICULTY

Queenie is graceful in all she does. Her grand paws allow her to glide through the chilly waters with ease, and she hunts with such precision that it looks like a dance! Queenie enjoys her luxurious lifestyle and is always prim and proper. The other creatures in the Arctic named her the “The Queen in the North”—and that she is!

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Hobbii Friends Cotton 8/8

⬦ 1 skein of White (01) – 50 g

⬦ *Note: You may want to prepare extra White yarn since this takes up the entire skein.

• 2.75 mm hook

• Two 4 mm x 6 mm oval safety eyes

• 10 mm safety nose

• Stuffing

• Scissors

• Yarn needle

• Stitch markers

• Sewing pins

• Tweezers

• Optional: blush and a cotton swab

TECHNIQUES

• Magic circle (see page 12)

• Invisible finish (see page 18)

• Right vs. wrong side of stitches (see page 14)

• Crocheting a piece closed (see page 22)

• Oval spiral (see page 25)

• Closing up a piece (see page 21)

NOTES

This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral and the feet are made using oval spirals.

Measurements:

6 in. x 3.5 in. [~15 cm x ~9 cm] if using the prescribed materials.

HEAD
In White yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc, inc, sc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x6 [36]

Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 [42]

Rnds 8–11 (4 rnds total): sc all around [42]

Rnd 12: (3 sc, inc, 3 sc) x6 [48]

Rnds 13–14 (2 rnds total): sc all around [48]

Rnd 15: (3 sc, dec, 3 sc) x6 [42]

Rnd 16: (5 sc, dec) x6 [36]

Rnd 17: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x6 [30]

Insert the safety eyes between rnds 9-10, 8 sts apart.

Rnd 18: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

Stuff well.

Rnd 19: (blo) – (sc, dec, sc) x6 [18]

*Note: The remaining loops will be used to crochet the body. Closing up the head instead of going directly into the body will ensure that the stuffing stays in place and that the cheeks stay plump!

Rnd 20: (sc, dec) x6 [12]

Stuff one last time, using tweezers to get into the narrow opening.

Fasten off and leave a tail for closing up the piece. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

BODY
In White yarn

Holding the head upside down, insert your hook into one of the loops closer to you from rnd 19. Make a slipknot and join the new yarn.

Rnd 1: (flo) – (inc) x24 [48]

Rnds 2–8 (7 rnds total): sc all around [48]

Rnd 9: (7 sc, inc) x6 [54]

Rnds 10–13 (4 rnds total): sc all around [54]

Rnd 14: (7 sc, dec) x6 [48]

Rnd 15: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x8 [40]

Rnd 16: (3 sc, dec) x8 [32]

Rnd 17: (sc, dec, sc) x8 [24]

Stuff well.

Rnd 18: (sc, dec) x8 [16]

Stuff one last time, using the tips of the scissors to get into the narrow opening.

Fasten off and leave a tail for closing up the piece. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

MUZZLE
In White yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (3 sc, inc) x3 [15]

Use the invisible finish and leave a tail for sewing. Insert the safety nose between rnds 2–3.

EARS
Make two in White yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and ch 2 (this will count as the first st), (hdc) x6, ch 2, slst into the center [8]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

ARMS
Make two in White yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (3 sc, inc) x3 [15]

Rnds 4–15 (12 rnds total): sc all around [15]

Lightly stuff. Flatten the opening and make ~7 sc through both layers to close up the piece.

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

LEGS
Make two in White yarn

Rnd 1: make a slipknot and ch 7, starting from the second ch from the hook, sc into the next 5 ch, make 3 sc into the next ch, turn and work along the bottom of the chain, sc into the next 4 ch, inc into the last ch, slst into the first st [14]

Rnd 2: (4 sc, 3 inc) x2 [20]

Rnd 3: (3 sc, inc) x5 [25]

Rnd 4: 4 sc, (sc, dec) x3, 12 sc [22]

Rnd 5: (sc, dec) x5, 7 sc [17]

Rnd 6: 3 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 8 sc [15]

Rnds 7–15 (9 rnds total): sc all around [15]

Lightly stuff. Make ~7 sc (adjust as needed) to reach the front of the foot (aligned with the toes). Then flatten the opening and make ~7 sc through both layers to close up the piece.

ASSEMBLY

*Tip: Mark the line of symmetry down the bear’s body with sewing pins before attaching pieces.

Arms: Position each arm at a slight angle, spanning rnds 1–4 of the body, 18 sts apart on the belly side. For the second arm, weave the yarn tail to the paws and sew them together.

Legs: Align the legs with the arms and sew them on, 10 sts apart on the belly side. Secure the inner legs against the body.

Muzzle: Center the muzzle with the limbs (with the nose on the top) and sew it on, spanning rnds 10–14. When you have about 3 sts remaining, lightly stuff it with yarn scraps.

Ears: Align the ears with the limbs and then sew them onto the head, spanning rnds 5–7, 20 sts apart.

Blush: Use a cotton swab and blush to create rosy cheeks and inner ears.

TAFFY
THE AXOLOTL

DIFFICULTY

Taffy sure loves her alone time. She’s quite shy around other critters and it’s largely due to an unfortunate incident that happened when she was just a wee baby. You see, she lost one of her little fingers in a scuffle! Amazingly, she grew it back in no time. Though she prefers to keep to herself, she always wears a happy smile on her face.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Hobbii Friends Cotton 8/8

⬦ 1 skein of Baby Pink (51) light pink – 27 g

⬦ 1 skein of Pink Berry Smoothie (54) dark pink – 8 g

• DMC 6-Strand Cotton Embroidery Thread

⬦ Dark Red (902 VY DK Garnet)

• 2.75 mm hook

• Two 4 mm safety eyes

• Stuffing

• Scissors

• Yarn needle

• Stitch markers

• Sewing pins

• Tweezers

• Optional: blush and a cotton swab

TECHNIQUES

• Oval spiral (see page 25)

• Right vs. wrong side of stitches (see page 14)

• Surface crocheting (see QR code)

NOTES

This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral.

The limbs and the dorsal crest are crocheted in (rather than sewn on), making this low-sew! Though you could technically crochet in the feather crown to make the entire pattern no-sew, it may be challenging to align it without the reference of the body to make it symmetrical. This is why I recommend sewing it on, but modify as you wish if you are an experienced crocheter.

Measurements:

6.5 in. x 2 in. [~17 cm x ~5 cm] if using the prescribed materials.

ARMS
Make two in Baby Pink yarn

Step 1: Make a slipknot and ch 2, slst into the second ch from the hook and add a stitch marker here (this is the back of the foot).

Step 2: *ch 2, sc into the second ch from the hook, slst into the marked ch* (this is the first toe).

Step 3: Repeat the steps between the * * two more times for a total of three toes.

Step 4: ch 7, starting from the second ch from the hook, make 6 slst down the ch.

Step 5: slst into the foot.

Fasten off and leave a tail for weaving in. Weave the starting tail into the hand and the finishing tail into the arm.

LEGS
Make two in Baby Pink yarn

Step 1: Make a slipknot and ch 2, slst into the second ch from the hook and add a stitch marker here (this is the back of the foot).

Step 2: *ch 2, sc into the second ch from the hook, slst into the marked ch* (this is the first toe).

Step 3: Repeat the steps between the * * two more times for a total of three toes.

Step 4: ch 5, starting from the second ch from the hook, make 4 slst down the ch.

Step 5: slst into the foot.

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Weave the starting tail into the foot and the finishing tail into the leg.

FEATHER CROWN
In Pink Berry Smoothie yarn

*Note: Each side of the head will have two shorter feather crowns (part A) and 1 longer feather crown (part B).

Part A (make four):

Make a slipknot and ch 5, starting from the second ch from the hook, slst into the next 2 ch, sc into the next 2 ch.

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

Part B (make two):

Make a slipknot and ch 7, starting from the second ch from the hook, slst into the next 3 ch, sc into the next 3 ch.

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

HEAD & BODY
In Baby Pink yarn

Rnd 1: make a slipknot and ch 7, starting in the second ch from the hook, sc into the next 5 ch, make 3 sc into the next ch, turn and work along the bottom of the chain, sc into the next 4 ch, inc into last ch and slst into the first st of the rnd [14]

*Note: The new rnd starts after the slst.

Rnd 2: sc all around [14]

Rnd 3: (4 sc, 3 inc), repeat [20]

Rnd 4: sc all around [20]

Rnd 5: (4 sc, [sc, inc] x3), repeat [26]

Rnd 6: (4 sc, [2 sc, inc] x3), repeat [32]

Rnds 7–9 (3 rnds total): sc all around [32]

Rnd 10: (3 sc, dec, 3 sc) x4 [28]

Rnd 11: (5 sc, dec) x4 [24]

Continue onto the body.

Rnd 12: (flo) – (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]

In the next rnd, crochet in the arms.

Rnd 13: 13 sc, then hold the ws of the arm against the body and join it by making 2 sc across it. To do this, go through the arm with your hook and then through both loops of the body. Then sc as you normally would and make sure that the yarn tails are on the inside of the body. Make 8 sc (in between the arms), join the other arm by making 2 sc across it, 5 sc [30]

*Note: By joining the limbs with the ws facing you, the rs of the limbs will be visible when the axolotl is upright.

Find the top of the head, using the arms as a reference point (which should be at the bottom of the body). Insert the safety eyes between rnds 4–5, 10 sts apart.

Rnd 14: (9 sc, inc) x3 [33]

Rnds 15–23 (9 rnds total): sc all around [33]

Rnds 24: (9 sc, dec) x3 [30]

In the next rnd, crochet in the legs. Use stitch markers to mark where the legs should be, aligning them with the arms. Depending on your tension, you may need to modify the number of sc sts. Below is how I worked mine.

Rnd 25: 12 sc, join the leg by making 2 sc across, make 8 sc (in between the legs), join the other leg by making another 2 sc across, 6 sc [30]

Stuff well. Continue to stuff as you work.

Rnd 26: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

Rnd 27: (sc, dec, sc) x6 [18]

Rnd 28: sc all around [18]

Rnd 29: (7 sc, dec) x2 [16]

Rnd 30: sc all around [16]

Rnd 31: (3 sc, dec, 3 sc) x2 [14]

Rnd 32: sc all around [14]

Rnd 33: (5 sc, dec) x2 [12]

Rnd 34: sc all around [12]

Rnd 35: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x2 [10]

Rnd 36: sc all around [10]

Rnd 37: (3 sc, dec) x2 [8]

Rnd 38: sc all around [8]

Rnd 39: (sc, dec, sc) x2 [6]

Rnd 40: sc all around [6]

Stuff one last time, using tweezers to get into the narrow opening.

Fasten off and leave a tail. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

ASSEMBLY

External Gills (Feather Crown): Use the eyes, limbs, and tail as reference points to position each gill. Each gill spans 2 sts on the head.

Step 1: Sew one part A onto both sides of the head between rnds 9–10, 8 sts apart.

Step 2: Sew part B immediately next to the first part A along the same rnds.

Step 3: Sew the final part A immediately next to part B along the same rnds.

Step 4: Secure all yarn tails into a knot and weave them in.

Mouth: Cut a long strand of Dark Red embroidery thread. Aligning the mouth with the eyes, embroider a straight mouth spanning 8 sts going across the center of rnd 1 of the head.

Blush: Use a cotton swab and blush to create rosy cheeks.

DORSAL CREST (SWIMMING TAIL)

*Note: For this body part, you will use the surface crochet technique. See the QR code below for a video tutorial.

Step 1: Insert sewing pins to mark the line of symmetry down the back to the tip of the tail. Continue onto the belly side of the body and stop between rnds 25–26 (where the legs were crocheted in).

Step 2: Make a slipknot in Pink Berry Smoothie yarn and join it on the surface between rnds 18–19.

Step 3: Following the line of symmetry, work toward the tail and remove the pins as you go. Make 3 sc, 3 hdc, 4 dc-inc, 4 dc, sc until you get to the tip of the tail, make 3 sc into the tip, turn and work along the underside of the body, 2 sc, 6 hdc, 8 sc, slst.

*Note: Don’t worry about this part being perfect—the point is to create a wavy looking crest!

Fasten off and leave a short tail to weave in.

MERLIN
THE FROG

DIFFICULTY

Meet Merlin, the cutest little froggie you’ll ever come across. He has big aspirations to someday become the most renowned wizard in the world. But first, he’ll need to finish his spelling homework. The others at the pond say that he’s got his head in the clouds, but we love him for it. Dream big, Merlin!

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Hobbii Rainbow Cotton 8/8

⬦ 1 skein of Lime (018) bright green – 35 g

⬦ 1 skein of Natural White (002) – 3 g

• DMC 6-Strand Cotton Embroidery Thread

⬦ Dark Coral (349)

• 2 pipe cleaners

• 2.75 mm hook

• Two 12 mm safety eyes

• Stuffing and yarn scraps

• Scissors

• Yarn needle

• Stitch markers

• Sewing pins

• Tweezers

SPECIAL TERMS

• cc: contrast color – Natural White

• mc: main color – Lime

TECHNIQUES

• Magic circle (see page 12)

• Color changes (see page 19)

• Crocheting a piece closed (see page 22)

• Closing up a piece (see page 21)

NOTES

This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral.

Measurements:

3.5 in. x 3 in. [~9 cm x ~8 cm] if using the prescribed materials.

HEAD & BODY
Start in Lime yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc, inc, sc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: sc all around [30]

Rnd 7: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x6 [36]

Rnds 8–9 (2 rnds total): sc all around [36]

Rnd 10: (sc, inc) x3, 14 sc, (sc, inc) x3, 10 sc [42]

Rnd 11: (5 sc, dec) x6 [36]

Rnd 12: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x6 [30]

Rnd 13: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

Continue on to the body.

Rnd 14: (flo) – (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 15: sc all around [30]

The color changes for the belly will begin in the next rnd. (mc) = Lime, (cc) = Natural White

Rnd 16: (mc) 6 sc, (cc) 4 sc, (mc) 20 sc [30]

Rnd 17: (mc) 5 sc, (cc) 6 sc, (mc) 19 sc [30]

Rnd 18: (mc) 5 sc, (cc) sc into the same st, 4 sc, inc, 2 sc, (mc) 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x3 [36]

Rnd 19: (mc) 4 sc, (cc) 12 sc, (mc) 20 sc [36]

Rnd 20: (mc) 4 sc, (cc) dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, (mc) dec, (4 sc, dec) x3 [30]

Rnd 21: (mc) 3 sc, (cc) dec, 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, (mc) (3 sc, dec) x3 [24]

Stuff the head and body. Continue to stuff as you work.

Rnd 22: (mc) 2 sc, (cc) dec, (2 sc, dec) x2, (cc) (2 sc, dec) x3 [18]

Continue in Lime yarn and cut the Natural White yarn.

Rnd 23: (sc, dec) x6 [12]

Rnd 24: (dec) x6 [6]

Fasten off and leave a tail for closing up the piece. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

EYE BULGES
Make two in Lime yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: sc all around [12]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. You will insert the safety eyes and stuff them during assembly.

FRONT LEGS
Make two in Lime yarn

Rnd 1: make a slipknot and ch 4, starting from the second ch from the hook, sc into the next 2 ch, make 3 sc into the last ch, turn and work along the bottom of the ch, sc, inc into the last st, slst in to the first st of the rnd [8]

*Note: The first st will now be after the slst.

Rnd 2: sc all around [8]

Rnd 3: (2 sc, dec) x2 [6]

Around rnd 6, fold a pipe cleaner to fit into the leg. Make sure it reaches all the way to the toes.

Because the opening is narrow, use tweezers to lightly stuff the leg with yarn scraps as you work.

Rnds 4–9 (6 rnds total): sc all around [6]

Add or undo a couple of sts as needed to get to the front of the leg.

Flatten the opening and make ~3 sc through both layers to close up the piece.

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. You will shape the legs later.

HIND LEGS
Make two in Lime yarn

Rnd 1: make a slipknot and ch 5, starting from the second ch from the hook, sc into the next 3 ch, make 3 sc into the last ch, turn and work along the bottom of the ch, sc into the next 2 ch, inc into the last ch, slst into the first st of the rnd [10]

*Note: The first st will now be after the slst.

Rnd 2: sc all around [10]

Rnd 3: (3 sc, dec) x2 [8]

Similarly to the front legs, from rnd 6, fold a pipe cleaner to fit into the leg. Because the opening is narrow, lightly stuff the leg with yarn scraps as you work.

Rnds 4–18 (15 rnds total): sc all around [8]

Flatten the opening and make ~4 sc through both layers to close up the piece.

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

ASSEMBLY

*Tip: Find the line of symmetry on the frog’s body by using the belly as a reference point. I like to mark the midline with sewing pins before attaching pieces.

Eye Bulges: Sew the eye bulges onto the head, spanning rnds 4–7. When you have about 4 sts remaining, lightly stuff and insert the safety eyes between rnds 2–3. (They might hang off of the edge, which is completely fine). Alternatively, glue them in after sewing.

Mouth: Cut a strand of Dark Coral embroidery thread. Create a curved mouth between rnds 5–6, 3 sts wide.

Front Legs: Bend the foot on each leg between rnds 2–3. Sew the legs onto the body between rnds 14–15. Secure the legs down along the length of the body.

Hind Legs: Bend the foot on each leg between rnds 5–6 and the knees between rnds 12–13. Using the yarn tail, secure the legs in this position by sewing through each layer. Then sew them to rnds 21–22 of the body. Secure them along the side of the body as in the photo.

FINNEGAN
THE FOX

DIFFICULTY

Meet Finnegan the Fox! He dwells in his cozy forest den and spends most of his free time catching butterflies. Finnegan’s friends call him the “sly and playful one,” since he’s always up to something mischievous.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Hobbii Friends Cotton 8/8

⬦ 1 skein of Whiskey (16) burnt orange – 47 g

⬦ 1 skein of White (01) – 3 g

⬦ 1 skein of Americano (20) dark brown – 3 g

• 2.75 mm hook

• Two 5 mm x 7 mm oval safety eyes

• 1 cm x 1 cm square of Black felt

• White roving wool + felting needle

⬦ Note: Alternatively, you can substitute brushed-out acrylic yarn for the roving wool.

• Stuffing

• Scissors

• Yarn needle

• Fabric glue

• Stitch markers

• Sewing pins

SPECIAL TERMS

• cc1: contrast color 1 – White

• cc2: contrast color 2 – Americano

• mc: main color – Whiskey

TECHNIQUES

• Magic circle (see page 12)

• Color changes (see page 19)

• Closing up a piece (see page 21)

NOTES

This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral.

Measurements:

4.5 in. x 3 in. [~11 cm x ~8 cm] if using the prescribed materials.

HEAD & BODY
Start in Whiskey yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc, inc, sc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x6 [36]

Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 [42]

Rnds 8–11 (4 rnds total): sc all around [42]

Rnd 12: 10 sc, 3 inc, 16 sc, 3 inc, 10 sc [48]

Rnd 13: 12 sc, 3 inc, 18 sc, 3 inc, 12 sc [54]

Rnd 14: (7 sc, dec) x6 [48]

The color changes for the face will begin in the next rnd. (mc) = Whiskey, (cc1) = White

Rnd 15: (mc) (3 sc, dec, 3 sc) x2, (cc1) (3 sc, dec, 3 sc) x2, (mc) (3 sc, dec, 3 sc) x2 [42]

Rnd 16: (mc) 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, 3 dec, (cc1) dec, 10 sc, dec, (mc) 3 dec, 3 sc, dec, 3 sc [32]

Rnd 17: (mc) 11 sc, (cc1) 10 sc, (mc) 11 sc [32]

Rnd 18: (mc) (2 sc, dec) x3, (cc1) (2 sc, dec) x2, (mc) (2 sc, dec) x3 [24]

Cut the White yarn and continue only in Whiskey yarn.

*Note: In the next rnd, make regular decreases instead of invisible decreases.

Rnd 19: (blo) – (sc, dec) x8 [16]

*Note: The remaining loops will be used to crochet the body. Closing up the head instead of going directly into the body will ensure that the stuffing stays in place and that the cheeks stay plump!

Stuff well and make sure to fill out the cheeks.

Rnd 20: (dec) x8 [8]

Fasten off and leave a short tail for closing the piece. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

Continue on to the body. Holding the head upside down, join Whiskey yarn at the back of the head using the loops left from rnd 19.

Rnd 21: (flo) – sc all around [24]

Rnd 22: (sc, inc) x3, 12 sc, (sc, inc) x3 [30]

Rnd 23: (2 sc, inc) x3, 12 sc, (2 sc, inc) x3 [36]

Rnds 24–27 (4 rnds total): sc all around [36]

Rnd 28: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x6 [30]

Rnd 29: sc all around [30]

Rnd 30: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

Rnd 31: (sc, dec, sc) x6 [18]

Stuff the body.

Rnd 32: (sc, dec) x6 [12]

*Tip: Closing up the piece at 12 instead of 6 will create a flatter bottom. If you are struggling with a large hole, be sure to weave through the opening several times so that the yarn doesn’t loosen.

Stuff one last time, using tweezers to get into the narrow opening. Fasten off and leave a tail. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

EARS
Make two; start in Americano yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x4 [4]

Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x2 [6]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x3 [9]

The next rnd will begin the color changes to create a gradient effect. (cc2) = Americano

Rnd 4: (cc2) 2 sc, (mc) inc, (cc2) 2 sc, (mc) inc, (cc2) 2 sc, (mc) inc [12]

Change to Whiskey yarn and cut the Americano yarn.

Rnd 5: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnds 6–7 (2 rnds total): sc all around [18]

Rnd 8: (2 sc, inc) x6 [24]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Do not stuff.

*Note: They might look a little big but you will fold them over when you sew them onto the head during assembly.

SNOUT
Start in Whiskey yarn

Rnd 1: (mc) make a magic circle and 3 sc, (cc1) 2 sc [5]

Rnd 2: (mc) sc, inc, sc, (cc1) inc, sc [7]

Rnd 3: (mc) 4 sc, (cc1) 3 sc [7]

Rnd 4: (mc) inc, sc, inc, sc, (cc1) inc, sc, inc [11]

Stuff the snout lightly with the yarn tails. Fasten off and leave a tail in both colors for sewing.

Cut out a small triangle in Black felt for the nose and glue it onto the snout.

FRONT LEGS
Make two; start in Americano yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x5 [5]

Rnd 2: sc all around [5]

Change to Whiskey yarn and cut the Americano yarn.

Rnd 3: sc all around [5]

Rnd 4: inc, 4 sc [6]

Rnd 5: inc, 5 sc [7]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

HIND LEGS
Make two; start in Americano yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x5 [5]

Rnd 2: sc all around [5]

Change to Whiskey yarn and cut the Americano yarn.

Rnd 3: sc all around [5]

Rnd 4: 2 dec, sc [3]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

TAIL
Start in White yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x3 [3]

Rnd 2: (inc) x3 [6]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x3 [9]

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x3 [12]

The next rnd will begin the color changes to create a gradient effect.

Rnd 5: [(cc1) sc, (mc) inc] x6 [18]

Continue in Whiskey yarn and cut the White yarn.

Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc) x6 [24]

Rnds 7–8 (2 rnds total): sc all around [24]

Rnd 9: (sc, dec, sc) x6 [18]

Rnds 10–11 (2 rnds total): sc all around [18]

Rnd 12: sc, (2 sc, dec) x4, sc [14]

Stuff well.

Rnd 13: (5 sc, dec) x2 [12]

Rnds 14–17 (4 rnds total): sc all around [12]

Rnd 18: (2 sc, dec) x3 [9]

Rnds 19–21 (3 rnds total): sc all around [9]

Rnd 22: (sc, dec) x3 [6]

Stuff one last time, using tweezers to get through the narrow opening. Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Do not sew the hole closed.

ASSEMBLY

Snout: Position the snout onto the face with the color changes matched up, spanning rnds 13–16. Sew the top half of the snout with the Whiskey yarn tail and the bottom half with the White yarn tail.

Eyes: Insert each safety eye 1 st away from the snout between rnds 12 and 13.

Ears:

Step 1: Position the ear so that the yarn tail is facing your dominant hand.

Step 2: Count 7 sts over and weave into the st and out the backside of the ear to create the fold.

Step 3: Secure the fold in place by weaving over and out the st next to where you are.

Step 4: Mirror these steps for the other ear.

Step 5: Position the ears so that the folded parts face forward. Sew them onto the head, spanning rnds 3–8.

Front Legs: Sew the front legs onto the body, spanning rnds 25–29, 6 sts apart on the chest.

Hind Legs: Position the hind legs about 1 st behind the front legs. Sew them between rnds 30–31 of the body.

Tail: Sew the tail onto the back of the body between rnds 26–27, pointing to the right when viewing it from the front. Secure the tail in place by sewing a few sts against the body.

Chest Fur:

Step 1: Needle felt on 2 in. [~5 cm] chunks of White roving wool onto the chest. Be sure to work slowly and carefully so that you don’t poke yourself!

Step 2: Trim the chest fur into a V-shape.

*Tip: Point your scissors when trimming so that it’s not choppy.

Finishing touches: Lastly, pinch the ears, cheeks, and tail with your fingers to create the sharp features foxes have.

DARA
THE DOLPHIN

DIFFICULTY

Dara is a pink river dolphin and takes great pride in her wit and intellect. Known to be the smartest type of all dolphins, Dara never backs down from a challenge. Solving puzzles involving logic and strategy are what she considers fun!

MATERIALS

• Yarn – Hobbii Friends Cotton 8/8

⬦ 1 skein of Hint of Pink (50) – 35 g

• DMC 6-Strand Cotton Embroidery Thread

⬦ Dark Red (902 VY DK Garnet)

• 3 pipe cleaners

• 2.75 mm hook

• Two 8 mm safety eyes

• Stuffing

• Scissors

• Yarn needle

• Stitch markers

• Sewing pins

• Tweezers

• Fabric glue

TECHNIQUES

• Magic circle (see page 12)

• Invisible finish (see page 18)

• Right vs. wrong side of stitches (see page 14)

• Crocheting a piece closed (see page 22)

• Closing up a piece (see page 21)

NOTES

This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral.

The eyes for this pattern are glued on due to making the eye indentations first and to ensure symmetry. If making this toy for a small child, modify these steps and add the backings to the eyes.

Measurements:

6.5 in. x 2.5 in. [~15 cm x ~6 cm] if using the prescribed materials.

HEAD & BODY
In Hint of Pink yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x3 [9]

Rnds 3–5 (3 rnds total): sc all around [9]

Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc) x3 [12]

Rnd 7: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 8: (sc, inc, sc) x6 [24]

Rnd 9: (sc, inc) x6, 12 sc [30]

Stuff the rostrum (beak-like structure) well. Continue to stuff as you work.

*Tip: Use tweezers and yarn scraps to get into this narrow space.

Rnd 10: (2 sc, inc) x6, 12 sc [36]

Rnds 11–16 (6 rnds total): sc all around [36]

Rnd 17: (10 sc, dec) x3 [33]

Rnds 18–20 (3 rnds total): sc all around [33]

Remove your hook and insert a stitch marker in the loop to hold its place.

Here you will make the eye indentations.

Step 1: Cut 12 in. [30.5 cm] of yarn.

Step 2: Locate the top-center of the head (where the increases were made in rnds 9–10) and mark it with a sewing pin.

Step 3: Weave the yarn tail from the opening of the head to come out between rnds 8–9.

Step 4: Weave into the head 1 st over and back out where the other eye will be, with 10 sts in between.

Step 5: Create the other eye indentation by weaving into the head 1 st over and back out the opening of the head. Make sure the eye indentations are symmetrical.

Step 6: Give the loops a snug tug until the indentations are made.

Step 7: Secure the tail ends into a knot.

Step 8: Secure the safety eyes into the indentations with glue.

Continue crocheting the body.

Rnd 21: (9 sc, dec) x3 [30]

Rnds 22–24 (3 rnds total): sc all around [30]

Make ~6 sts (or as needed) to realign the start of your rnd with the dolphin’s eye.

Rnd 25: (9 sc, inc) x3 [33]

*Note: The first decrease of the next rnd should be on the topside of the body.

Rnd 26: 6 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) x2, 5 sc [30]

Rnds 27–29 (3 rnds total): sc all around [30]

Rnd 30: (8 sc, dec) x3 [27]

Rnd 31: sc all around [27]

Twist 2 pipe cleaners and fold them in half. Insert them along the bottom of the body. Stuff again and work around the pipe cleaners for the rest of the body.

Rnd 32: (7 sc, dec) x3 [24]

Rnd 33: (2 sc, dec) x5, 4 sc [19]

Rnd 34: sc all around [19]

*Note: The decrease of the next rnd should be on the topside of the body. Adjust as needed.

Rnd 35: 5 sc, dec, 12 sc [18]

Rnd 36: sc all around [18]

Rnd 37: (sc, dec) x3, 9 sc [15]

Rnd 38: sc all around [15]

Rnd 39: (sc, dec) x5 [10]

Rnd 40: 2 sc, dec, 6 sc [9]

Rnd 41: 2 sc, dec, 5 sc [8]

Stuff one last time, using tweezers to get into the narrow opening.

Fasten off and leave a yarn tail for sewing the tail fin on. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

DORSAL FIN (TOP FIN)
In Hint of Pink yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x4 [4]

Rnd 2: sc, 2 inc, sc [6]

Rnd 3: sc, 3 inc, 2 sc [9]

Rnd 4: sc all around [9]

Rnd 5: (2 sc, inc) x3 [12]

Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc) x4 [16]

Do not stuff. Flatten the opening and make ~8 sc through both layers to close up the piece.

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Bend the tip of the fin to make it curved.

PECTORAL FINS
Make two in Hint of Pink yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x4 [4]

Rnd 2: sc, 2 inc, sc [6]

Rnd 3: sc, 3 inc, 2 sc [9]

Rnd 4: sc all around [9]

Rnd 5: (2 sc, inc) x3 [12]

Rnd 6: dec, 8 sc, dec [10]

Rnd 7: dec, 6 sc, dec [8]

Rnd 8: (2 sc, dec) x2 [6]

Do not stuff. Flatten the opening and make ~3 sc through both layers to close up the fin.

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

FLUKES (TAIL FINS)
In Hint of Pink yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x4 [4]

Rnd 2: sc, inc, 2 sc [5]

Rnd 3: 2 sc, inc, 2 sc [6]

Rnd 4: 3 sc, inc, 2 sc [7]

Rnd 5: 3 sc, inc, 3 sc [8]

Rnd 6: 4 sc, inc, 3 sc [9]

Rnd 7: 4 sc, inc, 4 sc [10]

Rnd 8: (sc, inc) x5 [15]

Rnd 9: sc all around [15]

Rnd 10: (sc, dec) x5 [10]

*Note: This is one half of the tail fin.

Rnd 11: (sc, inc) x5 [15]

Rnd 12: sc all around [15]

Rnd 13: (sc, dec) x5 [10]

Rnd 14: 4 sc, dec, 4 sc [9]

Rnd 15: 4 sc, dec, 3 sc [8]

Fold a pipe cleaner in half and insert it into the tail for structure. Crochet around it for the rest of the piece. Do not stuff.

Rnd 16: 3 sc, dec, 3 sc [7]

Rnd 17: 3 sc, dec, 2 sc [6]

Rnd 18: 2 sc, dec, 2 sc [5]

Rnd 19: 2 sc, dec, sc [4]

Rnd 20: sc all around [4]

Fasten off and leave a short tail for weaving in. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed. Bend the tail fins downward.

Weave in the yarn tail.

ASSEMBLY

*Tip: Find the line of symmetry on the dolphin’s body by using the face as a reference point. I like to mark the midline with sewing pins before attaching pieces.

Dorsal Fin: Sew the dorsal fin spanning rnds 25–31 with the curved top facing toward the tail.

Flukes: Using the yarn tail from the body, sew the flukes on at the center.

Pectoral Fins: Sew each fin onto the body, spanning rnds 17–19 with the flatter side of the fin facing forward as the image shows.

Mouth:

Step 1: Cut a strand of Dark Red embroidery thread and weave into the side of the head.

Step 2: Come out between rnds 5–6 of the rostrum (beak-like structure). Weave into the center of the magic circle and out the other side of the rostrum between the same rnds.

Step 3: Weave back into the center of the magic circle.

Step 4: Weave back to where you entered from in step 1 and secure the yarn tails into a knot. Bury the excess tails.

BENJI
THE BALD EAGLE

DIFFICULTY

Benjamin (or Benji for short) is all about justice. He prefers to fly solo but will always help settle a disagreement in the mountains. Benji believes in fairness and equality for all. Most importantly, he’s a loyal friend who will always be there when you need him. We all need a Benji in our lives!

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Hobbii Rainbow Cotton 8/8

⬦ 1 skein of White (001) – 15 g

⬦ 1 skein of Brown (007) – 13 g

⬦ 1 skein of Sunny Yellow (055) – 3 g

• 2.75 mm hook

• Two 5 mm x 7 mm oval safety eyes

• Stuffing

• Scissors

• Yarn needle

• Stitch markers

• Sewing pins

• Fabric Glue

TECHNIQUES

• Magic circle (see page 12)

• Closing up a piece (see page 21)

NOTES

This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral.

Refer to Gertrude the Grumpy Chick’s pattern for body base images on page 35.

Measurements:

5 in. x 3 in. [~13 cm x ~8 cm] if using the prescribed materials.

HEAD & BODY
Start in White yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc, inc, sc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x6 [36]

Rnds 7–10 (4 rnds total): sc all around [36]

Rnd 11: 4 inc, 10 sc, 4 inc, 18 sc [44]

Rnd 12: sc all around [44]

Rnd 13: (20 sc, dec) x2 [42]

Rnd 14: (5 sc, dec) x6 [36]

Rnd 15: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x6 [30]

Rnd 16: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

Rnd 17: (blo) – sc all around [24]

Change to Brown yarn and cut the White yarn.

Insert the safety eyes between rnds 10–11, 7 sts apart.

Stuff the head and fill out the two cheeks well. Continue onto the body.

Rnd 18: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 19: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x6 [36]

Rnd 20: (5 sc, inc) x6 [42]

Rnds 21–23 (3 rnds total): sc all around [42]

Rnd 24: (5 sc, dec) x6 [36]

Rnd 25: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x6 [30]

Rnd 26: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

Rnd 27: (sc, dec, sc) x6 [18]

Rnd 28: (sc, dec) x6 [12]

Stuff well. Fasten off and leave a tail for closing up the piece. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

For the neck feathers, hold the body upside down and join White yarn in one of the loops left from rnd 17.

(flo) – (sc, dc-inc, slst) x8

*Note: There will be a total of 8 scallops.

Sew down each of the neck feathers to the body so that they don’t flare out.

WINGS
Make two in Brown yarn

Rnd 1: make a slipknot and ch 5, starting from the second ch from the hook, sc into the next 4 ch, turn and work along the bottom of the chain, sc into the next 4 ch [8]

Rnds 2–3 (2 rnds total): sc all around [8]

Rnd 4: (2 sc, dec) x2 [6]

Rnd 5: sc all around [6]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Do not stuff.

See on page 32.

FEET
Make two in Sunny Yellow yarn

Step 1: Make a slipknot and ch 2, slst into the second ch from the hook and add a stitch marker here (this is the back of the foot).

Step 2: *ch 2, sc into the second ch from the hook, slst into the marked st* (this is the first toe).

Step 3: Repeat the steps between the * * two more times for a total of three toes.

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

See on page 33.

BEAK
In Sunny Yellow yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x3 [9]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

TAIL
In White yarn

Step 1: Make a magic circle, ch 6, hdc into second ch from hook, sc into the next 2 ch, slst into the next 2 ch (first feather).

Step 2: sc into the center of the magic circle, ch 7, hdc into the second ch from the hook, hdc into the next 2 ch, sc into the next 2 ch, slst into the last ch (second feather).

Step 3: sc into the center of the magic circle, ch 6, hdc into second ch from hook, sc into the next 2 ch, slst into the next 2 ch, slst into the magic circle (third feather).

Step 4: Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

Step 5: Weave the yarn tail up 3 ch and then across the 3 tail feathers to secure them together. Then weave it back down 3 ch on the opposite side.

Leave the remaining yarn tail for sewing onto the body.

ASSEMBLY

Eyelids:

Step 1: Cut 18 in. [~46 cm] of White yarn.

Step 2: Weave into the side of the head and come out of the inner corner of one eye.

Step 3: Embroider a diagonal line over the eye, 2 sts tall and 2 sts wide. Do this twice for each eye.

*Tip: Add a tiny bit of fabric glue onto the safety eyes and hold down the yarn with your finger as you weave.

Step 4: Secure the tail ends into a knot and bury them in the head.

Beak: Sew the beak on, spanning rnds 10–11 going through the blo.

Wings: Sew each wing 1 rnd below the neck feathers, 12 sts apart.

Feet: Sew each foot onto the body, spanning rnds 23–26 of the body, 4 sts apart.

Tail: Sew the tail onto the back of the body between rnds 23–24.

BELLA
THE BELUGA WHALE

DIFFICULTY

You’ll often find Bella the Beluga singing her heart out as she swims through the vast sea. Nicknamed the “sea canary,” she loves to jam out to her favorite pop songs by Billie Whaleish. Bella dreams of becoming the next big star of the ocean. Pursue your dreams and never give up, Bella!

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Hobbii Friends Cotton 8/8

⬦ 1 skein of White (01) – 48 g

• 2.75 mm hook

• Two 6 mm safety eyes

• Stuffing

• 1 pipe cleaner

• Scissors

• Yarn needle

• Stitch markers

• Sewing pins

• Tweezers

TECHNIQUES

• Magic circle (see page 12)

• Whipstitching (see page 23)

• Crocheting a piece closed (see page 22)

• Right vs. wrong side of stitches (see page 14)

• Closing up a piece (see page 21)

NOTES

This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral.

Measurements:

10 in. x 3 in. [~25 cm x ~8 cm] if using the prescribed materials.

MOUTH

Rnd 1: make a slipknot and ch 11, starting from the second ch from the hook, sc into the next 9 ch, inc into the last ch, turn and work along the bottom of the ch, hdc into the next 8 chs, hdc-inc into the last ch, slst into the first st of the rnd [21]

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Fold the oval in half lengthwise and whipstitch it closed.

HEAD & BODY

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc, inc, sc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: sc all around [24]

Rnd 6: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 7: sc all around [30]

Rnd 8: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x6 [36]

Rnds 9–11 (3 rnds total): sc all around [36]

Rnd 12: 18 sc, (sc, dec) x6 [30]

*Note: Part of the next rnd will be worked in the front loops only to create the distinction from the chin to chest area. This will be where the bottom of the head is.

Rnd 13: 18 sc, (flo) – 12 sc [30]

Rnd 14: 18 sc, (inc, sc) x6 [36]

Rnd 15: (8 sc, inc) x2, 18 sc [38]

Insert a stitch marker to hold your place and set aside your hook. Do not fasten off.

HEAD ASSEMBLY

Mouth: Position the mouth against the bottom of the head (the side where the front loops were made) and sew it on, spanning rnds 5–6.

*Note: Sew along the flat surface, not where it was whipstitched!

Eyes: Secure the safety eyes 1 st away from both sides of the mouth between rnds 7–8.

Continue on to the body.

Rnd 16: sc all around [38]

Rnd 17: 20 sc, inc, 16 sc, inc [40]

Rnd 18: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x8 [48]

Rnds 19–24 (6 rnds total): sc all around [48]

Rnd 25: (6 sc, dec) x6 [42]

Rnds 26–32 (7 rnds total): sc all around [42]

Stuff well and then continue to stuff as you work.

Rnd 33: (4 sc, dec) x6, 6 sc [36]

Rnd 34: (sc, dec) x8, 12 sc [28]

Rnds 35–36 (2 rnds total): sc all around [28]

Rnd 37: (5 sc, dec) x4 [24]

Rnd 38: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x4 [20]

Rnds 39–43 (5 rnds total): sc all around [20]

Rnd 44: (3 sc, dec) x4 [16]

Rnds 45–48 (4 rnds total): sc all around [16]

Rnd 49: (2 sc, dec) x4 [12]

Fold up a pipe cleaner to add structure to the tail.

*Tip: Use tweezers to stuff around the tail.

Rnds 50–52 (3 rnds total): sc all around [12]

Rnd 53: (2 sc, dec) x3 [9]

Rnd 54: dec, 7 sc [8]

Rnd 55: dec, 6 sc [7]

Rnd 56: dec, 5 sc [6]

Rnd 57: sc all around [6]

Fasten off and leave a tail for closing up the piece. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

PECTORAL FINS
Make two

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x4 [4]

Rnd 2: (inc, sc) x2 [6]

Rnd 3: sc all around [6]

Rnd 4: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnds 5–6 (2 rnds total): sc all around [12]

Rnd 7: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 8: (sc, dec) x6 [12]

Rnd 9: sc all around [12]

Rnd 10: (2 sc, dec) x3 [9]

Do not stuff. Flatten the opening and make ~3 sc through both layers to close up the piece. Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

TAIL FINS
Make two

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x4 [4]

Rnd 2: (inc, sc) x2 [6]

Rnd 3: 3 inc, 3 sc [9]

Rnd 4: 6 inc, 3 sc [15]

Rnds 5–6 (2 rnds total): sc all around [15]

Rnd 7: 5 sc, 5 inc, 5 sc [20]

Rnds 8–9 (2 rnds total): sc all around [20]

Rnd 10: 6 sc, 4 dec, 6 sc [16]

Rnd 11: 4 sc, 4 dec, 4 sc [12]

Do not stuff. Flatten the opening and make ~6 sc through both layers to close up the piece. Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

ASSEMBLY

Pectoral Fins: Position the fins on each side of the body between rnds 19–20, 14 sts apart from the belly side. Angle each fin slightly downward.

*Tip: For smoother attachment, sew each fin with the rs of the sc sts (that you made to close the piece) facing against the body. The ws of those sts should face you.

Tail Fins:

Step 1: Position each fluke as the image indicates.

Step 2: Use one of the yarn tails to sew the first 2 sts of the fins together.

Step 3: Fit the flukes around the tip of the tail and sew them on.

Step 4: Bend the tail slightly so that the body is curved.

PUDDLES
THE PENGUIN

DIFFICULTY

Puddles may look cute, but he’s a lean, mean, krill-hunting machine! Despite his tiny stature, his appetite is insatiable. He hunts during the majority of the day and munches on krill with no mercy. Puddles is not someone you want to mess with.

MATERIALS

• Yarn – Hobbii Friends Cotton 8/8

⬦ 1 skein of White (01) – 26 g

⬦ 1 skein of Sunflower Yellow (24) – 2 g

⬦ 1 skein of French Blue (84) dark blue – 14 g

⬦ 1 skein of Cornflower Blue (85) light blue – 11 g

• 2.75 mm hook

• Two 8 mm safety eyes

• Stuffing

• Scissors

• Yarn needle

• Stitch markers

• Sewing pins

• Optional: blush and a cotton swab

SPECIAL TERMS

• cc: contrast color – White

• mc: main color – French Blue

TECHNIQUES

• Magic circle (see page 12)

• Invisible finish (see page 18)

• Color changes (see page 19)

• Closing up a piece (see page 21)

NOTES

This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral.

Refer to Gertrude the Grumpy Chick’s pattern for body base images on page 35.

Measurements:

3.5 in. x 2.5 in. [~9 cm x ~6 cm] if using the prescribed materials.

HEAD & BODY
Start in French Blue yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc, inc, sc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x6 [36]

The color changes for the face will begin in the next rnd. (mc) = French Blue, (cc) = White

Instead of carrying the yarn over (which is a crochet technique typically used for tapestry wall hangings or garments), let it hang with some slack before picking it up again. This will allow for cleaner color changes, since you won’t be able to see the wrong side of the work anyway.

Rnd 7: (mc) 10 sc, (cc) 3 sc, (mc) 2 sc, (cc) 3 sc, (mc) 18 sc [36]

Rnd 8: (mc) 9 sc, (cc) 10 sc, (mc) 17 sc [36]

Rnds 9–10 (2 rnds total): (mc) 8 sc, (cc) 12 sc, (mc) 16 sc [36]

Rnd 11: (mc) 6 sc, 2 inc, (cc) 2 inc, 8 sc, 2 inc, (mc) 2 inc, 14 sc [44]

Rnd 12: (mc) 10 sc, (cc) 16 sc, (mc) 18 sc [44]

Rnd 13: (mc) 6 sc, dec, 3 sc, (cc) 14 sc, (mc) 2 sc, dec, 15 sc [42]

Rnd 14: (mc) 5 sc, dec, 4 sc, (cc) sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 2 sc, (mc) 3 sc, dec, (5 sc, dec) x2 [36]

Rnd 15: (mc) 2 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, sc, (cc) 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, (mc) sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x2, 2 sc [30]

Continue in French Blue yarn and cut the White yarn.

Rnd 16: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

Rnd 17: (sc, dec, sc) x6 [18]

Change to Cornflower Blue yarn and cut the French Blue yarn.

Insert the safety eyes between rnds 10–11, 7 sts apart.

Stuff the head and fill out the two cheeks well. Continue on to the body.

Rnd 18: (flo) – (inc) x18 [36]

Rnd 19: sc all around [36]

Rnd 20: (5 sc, inc) x6 [42]

Rnds 21–22 (2 rnds total): sc all around [42]

Rnd 23: (5 sc, dec) x6 [36]

Rnd 24: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x6 [30]

Rnd 25: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

Rnd 26: (sc, dec, sc) x6 [18]

Rnd 27: (sc, dec) x6 [12]

Stuff well. Fasten off and leave a tail for closing up the piece. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

WINGS
Make two in Cornflower Blue yarn

Rnd 1: make a slipknot and ch 5, starting from the second ch from the hook, sc into the next 4 sts, turn and work along the bottom of the chain, sc into the next 4 sts [8]

Rnds 2–3 (2 rnds total): sc all around [8]

Rnd 4: (2 sc, dec) x2 [6]

Rnd 5: sc all around [6]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Do not stuff.

See on page 32.

FEET
Make two in Sunflower yarn

Step 1: Make a slipknot and ch 2, slst into the second ch from the hook, and add a stitch marker here (this is the back of the foot).

Step 2: *ch 2, sc into the second ch from the hook, slst into the marked st* (this is the first toe).

Step 3: Repeat the steps between the * * two more times for a total of three toes.

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

See on page 33.

BEAK
In Sunflower yarn

Rnd 1: make a slipknot and ch 5, starting from the second ch from the hook, sc into the next 4 ch, turn and work along the bottom of the ch, sc into the next 4 ch [8]

Rnd 2: sc all around [8]

Use the invisible finish and leave a tail for sewing.

See on page 33.

ASSEMBLY

Beak: Weave the yarn tail toward the back of the beak and sew it on between the eyes, between rnds 10–11. Pinch the beak with your fingers to shape it.

See on page 35.

Wings: Sew each wing between rnds 17–18, 12 sts apart.

See on page 35.

Feet: Sew each foot onto the body, spanning rnds 22–24 of the body, 4 sts apart.

See on page 35.

Optional: Use a cotton swab and blush to create rosy cheeks.

Finishing Touches: If your color changes show the opposite color yarn peeking through, cut a long strand of the respective color and weave it in between the sts to make them cleaner.

SILAS
THE SEAL

DIFFICULTY

Silas is a harp seal pup, just shy of 4 weeks old. He’s already very curious about his habitat and has begun foraging for his own food. Silas’s snowy white coat helps him absorb sunlight to stay warm as his blubber is still forming. He’s discovered that his favorite genre of music is K-pop and can’t help himself from boppin’ to the tune!

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Hobbii Friends Cotton 8/8

⬦ 1 skein of White (01) – 35 g

⬦ 1 skein of Silver (118) – 1 g

• DMC 6-Strand Cotton Embroidery Thread

⬦ Black (310)

• 2.75 mm hook

• Two 9 mm safety eyes

• One 6 mm safety nose

• Stuffing

• Scissors

• Yarn needle

• Stitch markers

• Sewing pins

• Optional: blush and a cotton swab

TECHNIQUES

• Magic circle (see page 12)

• Crocheting a piece closed (see page 22)

• Closing up a piece (see page 21)

NOTES

This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral.

Measurements:

6 in. x 2.5 in. [~15 cm x ~6 cm] if using the prescribed materials.

HEAD & BODY
In White yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc, inc, sc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x6 [36]

Rnds 7–12 (6 rnds total): sc all around [36]

Rnd 13: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x6 [30]

Rnd 14: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

Continue on to the body.

Rnd 15: (flo) – (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 16: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x6 [36]

Rnd 17: (5 sc, inc) x6 [42]

Rnds 18–20 (3 rnds total): sc all around [42]

Rnd 21: (3 sc, inc, 3 sc) x6 [48]

Rnds 22–25 (4 rnds total): sc all around [48]

Rnd 26: (3 sc, dec, 3 sc) x6 [42]

Rnd 27: sc all around [42]

Rnd 28: (5 sc, dec) x6 [36]

Rnd 29: sc all around [36]

Rnd 30: (sc, dec) x6, 18 sc [30]

*Note: Use the decreases from the previous rnd to determine the top and bottom side of the body. The decreases will be the top, or where the seal’s back is facing upward.

With the center of the magic circle being the front of the face, insert the eyes between rnds 4 and 5, 7 sts apart.

Stuff well. Continue to stuff as you work.

Rnd 31: sc all around [30]

Rnd 32: (8 sc, dec) x3 [27]

Rnd 33: (sc, dec) x9 [18]

Rnd 34: (sc, dec) x3, 9 sc [15]

Rnd 35: sc all around [15]

Rnd 36: (sc, dec) x5 [10]

Stuff one last time, using tweezers to get through the narrow opening.

Fasten off and leave a tail for closing up the piece. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

MUZZLE
Start in Silver yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x8, slst into the first st of the rnd [8]

Cut the Silver yarn. Join White yarn a couple of sts away from where you fastened off.

Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x4 [12]

Rnd 3: sc all around [12]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

Insert the safety nose between rnds 1–2, covering the part where you fastened off the Silver yarn.

FLIPPERS
Make four in White yarn

Rnd 1: make a slipknot and ch 6, starting from the second ch from the hook, sc into the next 5 sts, turn and work along the bottom of the chain, sc into the next 5 sts [10]

Rnd 2: sc all around [10]

Rnd 3: dec, 8 sc [9]

Rnd 4: dec, 7 sc [8]

Remove your hook and insert a stitch marker in the loop to hold its place. You will embroider the flipper details next.

Step 1: Cut 10 in. [~25 cm] of Black embroidery thread and separate two strands to use.

Step 2: Insert your needle through the opening of the flipper to 2 rnds above the starting ch. Leave ~3 in. [~8 cm] for securing into a knot at the end.

Step 3: Weave under the flipper and into the back of the flipper, 2 rnds above the starting ch to create a line.

Step 4: Create the other two lines, 1 st apart from each other.

Step 5: Weave back out of the opening and tie the thread tails into a knot to secure them in place. Bury them in the inside of the flipper.

Continue crocheting the flipper.

Rnd 5: dec, 6 sc [7]

Rnd 6: sc all around [7]

Do not stuff. Make 1–2 sc if needed to reach the side of the flipper. Flatten the opening and make ~3 sc through both layers to close up the piece.

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

ASSEMBLY

*Tip: Find the line of symmetry on the seal’s body by using the face as a reference point. I like to mark the midline with sewing pins before attaching pieces.

Muzzle: Center the muzzle in between the eyes. Sew it with the top part of the muzzle between rnds 1–2. The nose should be aligned with the eyes. When you have about 3 sts remaining, lightly stuff it with yarn scraps.

Mouth: Separate two strands of Black embroidery thread that you cut previously. Insert the needle from the side of the head and weave out underneath the nose. Embroider a mouth 2 sts tall. Continue onto the eyebrows.

Eyebrows: Weave 1 rnd above each eye and create a diagonal line, 1 st wide, for each brow. Weave back out where you entered from and secure the yarn tails into a knot. Weave them in.

Front Flippers: Position the front flippers with the straight sides facing forward and the slanted sides pointing toward the back of the body. Sew them on, spanning rnds 15–18, 8 sts apart on the belly side. To help the front flippers prop the body up, sew along the body where the image indicates.

Tail Flippers: Place the body on a flat surface and position the tail flippers with the slanted sides facing the front and the straight sides facing back (this is the opposite of the front flippers).

NELLY & NELSON
THE SLOTHS

DIFFICULTY

Nelly and Nelson the sloths love to hang around in tall trees, gossiping about the hottest news in the rainforest. They often bicker, usually initiated by Nelly, and sweet ol’ Nelson usually lets her win. However, when it comes down to the last delicious leaf, it’s Nelly who always insists that Nelson enjoys it.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Hobbii Friends Cotton 8/8

⬦ Darker-colored sloth (Nelson)

» 1 skein of Cappuccino (10) dark brown – 48g

» 1 skein of Oatmilk (03) cream – 2g

⬦ Lighter-colored sloth (Nelly)

» 1 skein of Mauve (58) taupe – 48g

» 1 skein of Oatmilk (03) cream – 2g

• DMC 6-Strand Cotton Embroidery Thread

⬦ Black (310)

⬦ Cocoa (3860)

⬦ Coral (351)

• 2.75 mm and 1.50 mm hooks

• One 8mm x 6mm oval safety eye (for the nose)

• Stuffing

• Scissors

• Yarn needle

• Fabric glue

• Stitch markers

• Sewing pins

SPECIAL TERMS

• cc: contrast color – Oatmilk

• mc: main color – Cappuccino or Mauve

TECHNIQUES

• Magic circle (see page 12)

• Invisible finish (see page 18)

• Color changes (see page 19)

• Crocheting a piece closed (see page 22)

• Right vs. wrong side of stitches (see page 14)

• Closing up a piece (see page 21)

NOTES

This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral.

The whole pattern is crocheted with a 2.75 mm hook except for the eye patches that use a 1.50 mm hook. Micro-crocheting can be a more advanced skill. Be patient with yourself and work slowly and carefully.

Measurements:

4 in. x 4.5 in. [~10 cm x ~11 cm] if using the prescribed materials.

HEAD
In mc yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc, inc, sc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x6 [36]

Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 [42]

The color changes for the face will begin in the next rnd. (mc) = Cappuccino or Mauve, (cc) = Oatmilk

Instead of carrying the yarn over (which is a crochet technique typically used for tapestry wall hangings or garments), let it hang with some slack before picking it up again. This will allow for cleaner color changes since you won’t be able to see the “wrong side” of the work anyway.

Rnd 8: (mc) 6 sc, (cc) 10 sc, (mc) 26 sc [42]

Rnd 9: (mc) 5 sc, (cc) 12 sc, (mc) 25 sc [42]

Rnds 10–12 (3 rnds total): (mc) 4 sc, (cc) 14 sc, (mc) 24 sc [42]

Rnd 13: (mc) 5 sc, (cc) 12 sc, (mc) 25 sc [42]

Rnd 14: (mc) 6 sc, (cc) 10 sc, (mc) 26 sc [42]

Continue in mc yarn.

Rnds 15–25 (11 rnds total): sc all around [42]

Insert the oval safety eye sideways between rnds 11–12 for the nose, centered on the face.

Rnd 26: (5 sc, dec) x6 [36]

Rnd 27: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x6 [30]

Rnd 28: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

Stuff well.

Rnd 29: (sc, dec, sc) x6 [18]

Rnd 30: (sc, dec) x6 [12]

Stuff one last time, using tweezers to get into the narrow opening. Fasten off and leave a tail for closing up the piece. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

LIMBS
Make four in mc yarn

Stuff as you work. For two of the limbs, leave a long yarn tail before beginning the magic circle. These will be used for sewing the paws together.

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x8 [8]

Rnds 2–23 (22 rnds total): sc all around [8]

Flatten the opening and make ~4 sc through both layers to close up the piece. Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

EYE PATCHES
Make two in Cocoa embroidery thread, using a 1.50 mm hook

Rnd 1: make a slipknot and ch 6, starting from the second ch from the hook, sc into the next 4 ch, make 3 sc into the next ch, turn and work along the bottom of the chain, sc into the next 3 ch, inc into last ch and slst into the first st of the rnd [12]

*Note: The new rnd starts after the slst.

Rnd 2: (3 sc, 3 inc) x2 [18]

Use the invisible finish and leave a short tail.

ASSEMBLY

Eyes: Choose between the two kinds of eyes below.

Open Eyes:

Step 1: Cut 15 in. [~38 cm] of Black embroidery thread.

Step 2: Weave from the ws to the rs and leave a short tail to tie into a knot at the end.

Step 3: Embroider each eye onto the inner corners of the patches, 2 sts tall. Weave over several times to create a rounder shape.

Step 4: Secure the yarn tails into a knot on the ws of the patches.

Closed Eyes: Repeat steps 1, 2, and 4 above.

Step 5: Weave the needle 1 rnd from the edge and count 4 sts over. Leave a little slack to create the curved line. Then use your tweezers and lightly glue the eye in place.

Eyes Patches: Glue each eye patch onto the face, spanning rnds 11–13, 4 sts apart.

Mouth: Cut 10 in. [~26 cm] of Coral embroidery thread and embroider a mouth 2 sts wide, 1 rnd below the nose. Similar to how the closed eyes were made, leave some slack to create the curved line. Then use your tweezers and lightly glue the smile in place.

*Tip: For smoother attachment, sew each limb with the rs of the sc sts (you made to close the piece) facing against the body. The ws of those sts should face you.

Arms:

Step 1: Align the opening of the arm with where the Oatmilk colored face ends. Sew the front arm, spanning rnds 14–18 of the body.

Step 2: Secure the arm to the body directly under the face several times.

Step 3: Use the yarn tail from one of the limbs to sew the two paws together. Then sew the other arm down on the backside along the same rnds. (Don’t worry, it doesn’t matter too much how many spaces apart they are).

Legs: Align the legs with the arms and sew them on, spanning rnds 23–26. Sew the feet together the same way you did the arms.

Finishing Touches: If your color changes show the opposite color yarn peeking through, cut a long strand of the respective color and weave it in between the sts to make them cleaner.

ARIA & NOAH
THE SEA TURTLES

DIFFICULTY

This brother and sister duo enjoys doing everything together under the deep blue sea. Playing tag and “Don’t Touch the Boat” are just two of their many favorite games. Aria (green shell) is the sweetest big sister to her little brother Noah (blue shell) and has the patience of a saint as he annoys her all day long. May their adventures as siblings and best friends continue for a lifetime.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Hobbii Friends Cotton 8/8

⬦ Green-shelled turtle (Aria)

» mc – 1 skein of Baby Blue (75) light blue – 30 g

» cc1 – 1 skein of Sage (114) light green – 12 g

» cc2 – 1 skein of Eucalyptus (98) dark green – 15 g

» cc3 – 1 skein of French Blue (84) dark blue – 3 g

⬦ Blue-shelled turtle (Noah)

» mc – 1 skein of Sage (114) light green – 30 g

» cc1 – 1 skein of French Blue (84) dark blue – 12 g

» cc2 – 1 skein of Baby Blue (75) light blue – 15 g

» cc3 – 1 skein of Eucalyptus (98) dark green – 3 g

• DMC 6-Strand Cotton Embroidery Thread

⬦ Pewter Gray (317)

• 2.75 mm hook

• Two 14 mm safety eyes

• Stuffing

• Scissors

• Yarn needle

• Stitch markers

• Sewing pins

• Tweezers

• Fabric glue

• 4 in. x 4 in. [10 cm x 10 cm] square of Green felt

SPECIAL TERMS

• cc1: contrast color 1

• cc2: contrast color 2

• mc: main color

• ch-sp: chain space

TECHNIQUES

• Magic circle (see page 12)

• Color changes (see page 19)

• Closing up a piece (see page 21)

NOTES

This shell is made with an African flower hexagon pattern in joined rounds. Similar to granny squares, this is usually used to make garments and blankets. This is the only pattern in this book that uses this technique of crocheting.

The rest of the body parts are worked in a continuous spiral.

Because of the special stitches used for the shell as well as the intricate assembly, this pattern is best suited for advanced crocheters.

The eyes for this pattern are glued on due to making the eye indentations first and to ensure symmetry. If making this toy for a small child, modify these steps and add the backings to the eyes.

The chain stitches at the beginning of a round count as a stitch (e.g., ch 1 = 1 sc, ch 3 = 1 dc).

Measurements:

6.5 in. x 2 in. [~17 cm x ~5 cm] if using the prescribed materials.

HEAD
In mc yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc, inc, sc) x6 [24]

Rnds 5–8 (4 rnds total): sc all around [24]

Rnd 9: (sc, dec, sc) x6 [18]

Rnd 10: (sc, dec) x6 [12]

Stuff the head well. Insert a stitch marker to hold your place and set aside your hook. Do not fasten off.

Eye indentations:

*Note: The start of the magic circle will be the front of the face. Align each of the eye indentations with the stitch marker, since you will be crocheting the head closed at the end.

Step 1: Cut 12 in. [30.5 cm] of any colored yarn.

Step 2: Weave the yarn from the opening of the head to come out between rnds 4–5.

Step 3: Weave into the head 1 st over and back out where the other eye will be, with 10 sts in between.

Step 4: Create the other eye indentation by weaving into the head 1 st over and back out the opening of the head. Make sure the eye indentations are symmetrical.

Step 5: Give the loops a snug pull until the indentations are made.

Step 6: Secure the tail ends into a knot.

Step 7: Secure the safety eyes into the indentations with glue.

Eyelids:

Step 1: Cut 24 in. [70 cm] of mc yarn.

Step 2: For the upper lids, weave from the inner corners to the outer corners 3x.

*Tip: Add a tiny bit of fabric glue onto the safety eyes and hold the yarn down with your finger as you weave.

Step 3: For the lower lids, weave over only once.

Step 4: Secure the tail ends into a knot and bury them in the head.

Nostrils: Cut a strand of Dark Gray embroidery thread and create each nostril, spanning rnd 2, 3 sts apart at the outer corners.

Continue where you left your stitch marker. Flatten the opening and make ~6 sc through both layers to close it up. Fasten off and leave a short tail.

FLIPPERS
Make four in mc yarn

*Note: You will make two fore flippers and two hind flippers. The fore flippers will have extra steps. Leave the yarn tail from the magic circle on the outside of the piece for the fore flippers. You will use it for shaping later.

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x4 [4]

Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x2 [6]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x3 [9]

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x3 [12]

Rnds 5–8 (4 rnds total): sc all around [12]

Rnd 9: (2 sc, dec) x3 [9]

Rnd 10: (sc, dec) x3 [6]

Stop here for the hind flippers. Do not stuff. Fasten off and leave a short tail to weave in.

Continue for the fore flippers.

Rnds 11–13 (3 rnds total): sc all around [6]

Do not stuff. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing the arms bent. Continue onto the fore flippers assembly.

Fore flippers assembly:

Step 1: Weave the yarn tail where you left off down 3 rnds from the opening.

Step 2: Secure the bent arm shape by weaving into the opening and back out where you came from several times.

Step 3: Weave the yarn tail out to where the magic circle tail is.

Step 4: Secure this yarn tail to the magic circle yarn tail in a knot so that it doesn’t come undone.

Step 5: Bury the yarn tails inside the flippers.

*Note: For the edge details on the left and right fore flippers, you will join cc3 yarn at different areas so that the stitches face the right way.

Step 6: For the left and right flippers, insert your hook where the image indicates. (Right flipper will start from the inner corner and the left flipper will be the opposite).

Step 7: Join cc3 yarn and go through both layers to make 10 sc along the edge.

Fasten off and weave in the tails.

SHELL
Start in cc1 yarn

*Note: Scan the QR code to follow my video tutorial for this African Flower shell. The yarn tails do not need to be weaved or crocheted in since you will be covering the inside of the shell with felt. Remember that the ch 3 counts as the first dc. The stitch count for each rnd is not as crucial and you will end with 48 sts.

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and ch 3 (this will count as the first dc), dc, ch 1; (2 dc, ch 1) x5 for a total of 6 clusters, slst to the first st to join the rnd

Fasten off and leave a short tail. Join cc2 yarn into one of the ch-sp.

Rnd 2: ch 3, dc, ch 1, 2 dc into the same ch-sp, ch 1, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1) x5 into each of the ch-sp for a total of 6 times, slst to the first st to join the rnd

Fasten off and leave a short tail. Join cc1 yarn into one of the ch-sp where the image indicates.

Rnd 3: ch 3, 6 dc into the same ch-sp, ch 1. (7 dc, ch 1) x5 into each of the ch-sp for a total of 6 times, slst to the the first st to join the rnd

Fasten off and leave a short tail. Join cc2 yarn into one of the ch-sp (that was skipped in the previous rnd) from rnd 2 where the image indicates.

Rnd 4: ch 3, sc into the next 7 sts, (dc into the ch-sp from rnd 2, 7 sc) x5 for a total of 6 times, slst in mc yarn to the first st to join the rnd

Fasten off cc2 yarn and continue in mc yarn.

Rnd 5: ch 1, (blo) sc all around, slst to join the rnd [48]

Fasten off and leave a long tail for crocheting the parts together.

Trim the yarn tails on the inside of the shell short. Cut a circle out in green felt and secure it onto the inside of the shell with glue.

BELLY
In mc yarn

*Note: The belly circumference should be smaller than the shell. This will help the shell to pop out more.

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and ch 2 (counts as the first hdc), (hdc) x11, slst into the first st to join the rnd [12]

Rnd 2: ch 2, hdc into the same st, (hdc-inc) x11 [24]

Rnd 3: ch 2, hdc into the same st, hdc into the next st, (hdc-inc, hdc) x11 [36]

Rnd 4: ch 2, hdc into the same st, hdc into the next 2 sts, (hdc-inc, 2 hdc) x11 [48]

Fasten off and leave a short tail for weaving in.

TAIL
In mc yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x4 [4]

Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x2 [6]

Rnd 3: sc all around [6]

Rnd 4: (sc, inc) x3 [9]

Rnds 5–6 (2 rnds total): sc all around [9]

Lightly stuff. Fasten off and leave a short tail for weaving in.

ASSEMBLY

Follow the diagram to sew all the body parts together. You will be whipstitching the shell to the belly, securing each body part along the way.

Sew the head across 6 sts.

Sew the left fore flipper across 2 sts.

Sew 11 sts along the side of the body.

Sew the left hind flipper across 2 sts.

Sew 2 sts.

Sew the tail across 4 sts.

Sew 2 sts.

Sew the right hind flipper across 2 sts.

Sew 11 sts along the side of the body.

Stuff the body.

Sew the right fore flipper across 2 sts.

Sew 2 sts.

Outer Edge of Shell: Hold the turtle shell so that it’s facing you. Join cc1 yarn in any of the front loops remaining from rnd 4 of the shell, ch 1 (counts as the first sc), sc all around, slst to join the rnd. [48]

Fasten off and leave a short tail for weaving in.

PERRY
THE PUG

DIFFICULTY

Perry the Pug is the biggest cuddle bug on Earth. He’s got the sweetest waddle, and his pudgy body is perfect for hugs. He enjoys a good Macchiato and reading his favorite books at the local coffee shop.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Hobbii Friends Cotton 8/8

⬦ 1 skein of Beige (05) – 29 g

⬦ 1 skein of Americano (20) – dark brown – 2 g

• 2.75 mm hook

• Two 9 mm safety eyes

• One 8 mm safety nose

• Stuffing

• Scissors

• Yarn needle

• Stitch markers

• Sewing pins

• Tweezers

• Fabric glue

• Optional: blush and a cotton swab

TECHNIQUES

• Magic circle (see page 12)

• Oval spiral (see page 25)

• Closing up a piece (see page 21)

NOTES

This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral. The body is made using an oval spiral.

The nose for this pattern is placed after closing the head, due to the positioning being difficult before it is stuffed. If making this toy for a small child, modify the pattern and add the safety nose before closing up the head.

Measurements:

4 in. x 2.25 in. [~10 cm x ~6 cm] if using the prescribed materials.

HEAD
In Beige yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc, inc, sc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: sc all around [24]

Rnd 6: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]

Rnds 7–10 (4 rnds total): sc all around [30]

Rnd 11: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

*Note: The loops you create in the next rnd will help make sewing the head to the body easier. Since you are working in the back loops only in the next rnd, work regular decreases instead of invisible decreases.

Rnd 12: (blo) – (sc, dec, sc) x6 [18]

With the center of the magic circle being the front of the face, insert the safety eyes 7 sts apart. [img 8]

Rnd 13: (sc, dec) x6 [12]

Stuff well.

Rnd 14: (dec) x6 [6]

Fasten off and leave a tail for closing up the piece. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed. Weave the tail out where the remaining loops are, from rnd 12, for sewing.

EARS
Make two in Americano yarn

Make a magic circle and work the following into the center – sc, hdc, dc, ch 1, dc, hdc, sc [no st count].

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

MUZZLE
In Americano yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and ch 2, 2 hdc, sc, ch 1 (this is half of the muzzle), sc, 2 hdc, ch 2, slst into the center [no st count]

Pull the circle closed and secure the tails in a knot before cutting them short (or leave a longer tail if you prefer to sew). Insert the safety nose into the ch-sp of the muzzle.

BODY
In Beige yarn

Rnd 1: make a slipknot and ch 13, starting from the second ch from the hook, sc into the next 11 ch, make 3 sc into the next ch, turn and work along the bottom of the ch, sc into the next 10 ch, inc into the next ch, and slst into the first st of the rnd [26]

*Note: The new rnd starts after the slst.

Rnd 2: (10 sc, 3 inc), repeat [32]

Rnd 3: (10 sc, [sc, inc] x3), repeat [38]

Rnd 4: (10 sc, [2 sc, inc] x3), repeat [44]

Rnd 5: (10 sc, [3 sc, inc] x3), repeat [50]

Rnd 6: sc all around [50]

Rnd 7: (10 sc, [4 sc, inc] x3) x2 [56]

Rnds 8–12 (5 rnds total): sc all around [56]

Now you will create the legs. To make them symmetrical on the body, make 4 sc (or adjust as needed). This will be the new start of your rnd.

*Note: Each leg will have 8 sts total. Count 6 sts, mark the 7th with a st marker. Repeat 7 more times for a total of 8 st markers.

Rnd 13: *sc 7, skip 6 sts, sc into the 7th st* (this will create an open space where a leg will be), repeat from * to * for each of the legs [32]

Rnd 14: (2 sc, dec) x8 [24]

Rnd 15: (sc, dec) x8 [16]

Stuff well and be sure to fill the leg holes.

Rnd 16: (dec) x8 [8]

Fasten off and leave a tail for closing up the piece. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

LEGS
Make four in Beige yarn

Hold the body upside down and insert your hook on the inside of the leg (closer to the belly). Join Beige yarn.

Rnd 17: sc all around [8]

*Note: If you are somehow short a st, simply add an inc near the inner parts of the legs as needed. Don’t worry if it’s not perfect!

*Tip: Use fine-tip tweezers to get into tiny spaces. Stuff the yarn tails into the opening.

Rnd 18: (2 sc, dec) x2 [6]

Fasten off and leave a tail for closing up the piece. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

TAIL
In Beige yarn

Make a slipknot and ch 7, starting from the second ch from the hook, slst into the next ch, sc into the next 5 ch [no st count].

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Twist it with your fingers to give it a curly shape.

ASSEMBLY

Head & Body: Position the head on the front of the body, spanning rnds 4–8. Sew it on using the loops left behind from rnd 12 of the head.

Ears: Sew the ears on top of the head, spanning rnds 7–8, 8 sts apart.

Muzzle: Align the nose to be 1 st higher than the eyes. Secure the muzzle onto the head with fabric glue, centering it between the eyes.

Tail: Sew the tail onto the back of the body between rnds 4–5.

Optional: Use a cotton swab and blush to create rosy cheeks.

POPPY
THE PIG

DIFFICULTY

Sqweee! Poppy is a delight on the farm, and her joyful frolicking is a sight that warms the hearts of many. She loves to follow Mama Hen around all day and ask her a million bazillion questions. Thankfully, Mama Hen loves her as her own and is always happy to make time for her.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Hobbii Friends Cotton 8/8

⬦ 1 skein of Cappuccino (10) dark brown – 2 g

⬦ 1 skein of Baby Pink (51) light pink – 31 g

⬦ 1 skein of Berry Smoothie (54) dark pink – 1 g

• DMC 6-Strand Cotton Embroidery Thread

⬦ Dark Brown (779 DK Cocoa)

• 2.75 mm hook

• Two 5 mm safety eyes

• Stuffing

• Scissors

• Yarn needle

• Stitch markers

• Sewing pins

• Tweezers

• Fabric glue

• Optional: blush and a cotton swab

TECHNIQUES

• Magic circle (see page 12)

• Oval spiral (see page 25)

• Closing up a piece (see page 21)

NOTES

This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral. The body is made using an oval spiral.

Measurements:

4 in. x 2.25 in. (~10 cm x ~6 cm) if using the prescribed materials.

HEAD
In Baby Pink yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc, inc, sc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: sc all around [24]

Rnd 6: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]

Rnds 7–10 (4 rnds total): sc all around [30]

Rnd 11: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

*Note: The loops you create in the next rnd will help make sewing the head to the body easier. Since you are working in the back loops only in the next rnd, work regular decreases instead of invisible decreases.

Rnd 12: (blo) – (sc, dec, sc) x6 [18]

With the center of the magic circle being the front of the face, insert the safety eyes 7 sts apart.

Rnd 13: (sc, dec) x6 [12]

Stuff.

Rnd 14: (dec) x6 [6]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed. Weave the tail out where the remaining loops are, from rnd 12, for sewing.

EARS
Make two in Baby Pink yarn

Make a magic circle and work the following into the center – sc, hdc, dc, ch 1, dc, hdc, sc [no st count].

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

SNOUT
In Berry Smoothie yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Use the invisible finish and leave a short tail (leave a longer one if you prefer to sew).

Stretch the snout with your fingers to make it more oval shaped.

BODY
In Baby Pink yarn

Rnd 1: make a slipknot and ch 13, starting from the second ch from the hook, sc into the next 11 ch, make 3 sc into the next ch, turn and work along the bottom of the ch, sc into the next 10 ch, inc into the last ch, and slst into the first st of the rnd [26]

*Note: The new rnd starts after the slst.

Rnd 2: (10 sc, 3 inc), repeat [32]

Rnd 3: (10 sc, [sc, inc] x3), repeat [38]

Rnd 4: (10 sc, [2 sc, inc] x3), repeat [44]

Rnd 5: (10 sc, [3 sc, inc] x3), repeat [50]

Rnd 6: sc all around [50]

Rnd 7: (10 sc, [4 sc, inc] x3) x2 [56]

Rnds 8–12 (5 rnds total): sc all around [56]

Now you will create the legs. To make them symmetrical on the body, make 4 sc (or adjust as needed). This will be the new start of your rnd.

*Note: Each leg will have 8 sts total. Count 6 sts, mark the 7th with a st marker. Repeat 7 more times for a total of 8 st markers.

Rnd 13: *sc 7, skip 6 sts, sc into the 7th st* (this will create an open space where a leg will be), repeat from * to * for each of the legs [32]

Rnd 14: (2 sc, dec) x8 [24]

Rnd 15: (sc, dec) x8 [16]

Stuff well and be sure to fill the leg holes.

Rnd 16: (dec) x8 [8]

Fasten off and leave a tail for closing up the piece. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

LEGS
Make four; start in Baby Pink yarn

Hold the body upside down and insert your hook on the inside of the leg (closer to the belly). Join Baby Pink yarn.

Rnd 17: sc all around [8]

*Note: If you are somehow short a st, simply add an inc near the inner parts of the legs as needed. Don’t worry if it’s not perfect!

Change to Cappuccino yarn and cut the Baby Pink yarn.

Stuff the yarn tails into the legs.

*Tip: Use fine-tip tweezers to get into tiny spaces.

Rnd 18: (2 sc, dec) x2 [6]

Fasten off and leave a tail for closing up the piece. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

TAIL
In Baby Pink yarn

Make a slipknot and ch 7, starting from the second ch from the hook, slst into the next ch, sc into the next 5 ch [no st count].

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Twist it with your fingers to give it a curly shape.

ASSEMBLY

Head & Body: Position the head at an angle on the front of the body, spanning rnds 3–7. Sew it on using the loops left behind from rnd 12 of the head.

Ears: Sew the ears on between rnds 7–8 on top of the head, 5 sts apart.

Snout: Cut a long strand of Dark Brown embroidery thread and create two diagonal lines for the nostrils, 1 st tall. Secure the snout onto the head with fabric glue, centering it between the eyes. Keep the snout in line with the eyes.

Tail: Sew the tail onto the back of the body between rnds 4–5.

Optional: Use a cotton swab and blush to create rosy cheeks.

SHELDON & NEVILLE
THE CAPYBARAS

DIFFICULTY

Sheldon and Neville are experts when it comes to knowing how to relax. Friendly and sociable, these twin brothers love to bask in yuzu (a round, yellowish citrus fruit) baths on the daily. “There is always good in life if you look for it,” their motto goes!

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Hobbii Rainbow Cotton 8/8

⬦ Lighter-colored capybara (Sheldon)

» 1 skein of Light Brown (006) – 20 g

» 1 skein of Brown (007) – .5 g

» 1 skein of Burnt Orange (066) – .5 g

*Note: The darker-colored capybara (Neville) uses Friends Cotton 8/8 in Warm Shades (13) for the mc.

• DMC 6-Strand Cotton Embroidery Thread

⬦ Emerald Green (3818)

⬦ Black Brown (3317)

• 2.75 mm hook

• Two 6 mm safety eyes

• Stuffing

• Scissors

• Yarn needle

• Stitch markers

• Sewing pins

• Tweezers

• 2 neodymium magnets (10 mm x 2 mm)

• Fabric glue

• Poly-pellets and a disposable sock (to weigh down the body)

SPECIAL TERMS

• cc: contrast color 1 – Brown

• mc: main color – Light Brown or Warm Shades

TECHNIQUES

• Magic circle (see page 12)

• Oval spiral (see page 25)

• Closing up a piece (see page 21)

NOTES

This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral. The body is made using an oval spiral.

The eyes for this pattern are glued on due to making the eye indentations first and to ensure symmetry. If making this toy for a small child, modify these steps and add the backings to the eyes.

Warning: Do not skip the poly-pellets step for the body or it will be unbalanced!

Measurements:

5.5 in. x 2.5 in. (~14 cm x ~6 cm) if using the prescribed materials.

HEAD
In mc yarn

*Note: The head will be made horizontally from the nose first.

Rnd 1: make a slipknot and ch 5, starting from the second ch from the hook, sc into the next 3 ch, make 3 sc into the next ch, turn and work along the bottom of the ch, sc into the next 2 ch, inc into last ch and slst into the first st of the rnd [10]

*Note: The new rnd starts after the slst.

Rnd 2: (2 sc, 3 inc), repeat [16]

Rnd 3: (2 sc, [sc, inc] x3), repeat [22]

Rnd 4: (2 sc, [2 sc, inc] x3), repeat [28]

Rnds 5–10 (6 rnds total): sc all around [28]

Rnd 11: (13 sc, inc) x2 [30]

Rnds 12–14 (3 rnds total): sc all around [30]

Rnd 15: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]

*Note: In the next rnd, make regular decreases instead of invisible decreases. The front loops will be used to sew the head onto the body.

Rnd 16: (blo) – (2 sc, dec) x6 [18]

Rnd 17: (sc, dec) x6 [12]

Glue a magnet on the inside where the top of the head will be between rnds 13–15. Stuff well.

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed. Weave the tail out where the remaining loops are from rnd 16 for sewing.

EARS
Make two in Brown yarn

Rnd 1: make a slipknot and ch 5, starting from the second ch from the hook, sc into the next 2 ch, hdc into the next ch, 3 hdc into the same ch, hdc into the next ch, sc into the next 2 ch, fold the ear in half and slst into the first st [9]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

BODY
In mc yarn

Rnd 1: make a slipknot and ch 13, starting from the second ch from the hook, sc into the next 11 sts, make 3 sc into the next st, turn and work along the bottom of the chain, sc into the next 10 sts, inc into the next st and slst into the first st of the rnd [26]

*Note: The new rnd starts after the slst.

Rnd 2: (10 sc, 3 inc), repeat [32]

Rnd 3: (10 sc, [sc, inc] x3), repeat [38]

Rnd 4: (10 sc, [2 sc, inc] x3), repeat [44]

Rnd 5: (10 sc, [3 sc, inc] x3), repeat [50]

Rnd 6: sc all around [50]

Rnd 7: (10 sc, [4 sc, inc] x3) x2 [56]

Rnds 8–12 (5 rnds total): sc all around [56]

Now you will create the four legs. To make them symmetrical on the body, make 4 sc (or adjust as needed). This will be the new start of your rnd.

*Note: Each leg will have 8 st total. Count 6 sts, mark the 7th with a st marker. Repeat 7 more times for a total of 8 st markers.

Rnd 13: *sc 7, skip 6 sts, sc into the 7th st* (this will create an open space where a leg will be), repeat from * to * for each of the legs [32]

To ensure that the body doesn’t tilt over from the weight of the head, insert poly-pellets in a small disposable sock and add it to the body before you begin decreasing/stuffing it.

*Tip: You can substitute uncooked rice for the poly-pellets.

Rnd 14: (2 sc, dec) x8 [24]

Rnd 15: (sc, dec) x8 [16]

Rnd 16: (dec) x8 [8]

Fasten off and leave a tail for closing up the piece. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

LEGS
Make four; start in mc yarn

Hold the body upside down and insert your hook on the inside of the leg (closer to the belly). Join the mc yarn.

Rnd 17: sc all around [8]

*Note: If you are somehow short a st, simply add an inc near the inner parts of the legs as needed. Don’t worry if it’s not perfect!

Change to Dark Brown yarn. Cut the mc yarn and stuff the yarn tails into the leg.

*Tip: Use fine-tip tweezers to get into tiny spaces.

Rnd 18: (2 sc, dec) x2 [6]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

YUZU
In Burnt Orange yarn

Rnd 1: make a magic circle and (sc) x6 [6]

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 [12]

Rnds 3–4 (2 rnds total): sc all around [12]

Glue a magnet onto the inside of the yuzu. Check to make sure the side that attracts to the magnet in the head is the side you glue. Lightly stuff.

Rnd 5: (dec) x6 [6]

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Go through the flo with your yarn needle and pull the hole closed.

Cut a long strand of Emerald Green embroidery thread to create an asterisk on the yuzu. Rnd 5 will be the “top” since the other side has the magnet glued to it.

ASSEMBLY

Eye indentations:

Step 1: Cut 12 in. [30.5 cm] of yarn.

Step 2: Weave the yarn tail from the back of the head to rnds 10–11. Come out and over 1 st.

Step 3: Weave into the other side of the head for the other eye indentation. Make sure the indentations are symmetrical.

Step 4: Give the loops a snug pull until the indentations are made.

Step 5: Secure the tail ends in a knot.

Head & Body: Sew the head onto the front of the body, spanning rnds 4–9, using the loops left behind from rnd 16 of the head.

Ears: Sew the ears on between rnds 14–15, 4 sts apart on the top of the head. The magnet for the orange should be centered between the ears.

Eyes: Glue the safety eyes into the indentations.

Nose: Cut a long strand of Dark Brown embroidery thread and create two diagonal lines for the nostrils, 1 st wide, spanning rnd 3 of the head. Continue onto the mouth.

Mouth: Embroider a line 5 sts tall for the mouth underneath the nostrils.

PRAISE FOR AMIGURUMI CRITTERS

“Amy’s amigurumi designs are nothing short of magical. With unique yet easy-to-follow techniques, she brings to life some of the most adorable creations imaginable—perfect for crafters of all ages and skill levels.”

—LOUIE MENSINGER, FOUNDER OF CLUB CROCHET

“Whether you’re just picking up a crochet hook for the first time or you’re a seasoned pro looking for inspiring new projects, this book is for you! Packed with clear instructions, charming designs, and projects for every skill level, Amigurumi Critters is a delight!”

—GENNA TATU, CREATOR OF CROCHETBYGENNA

“Amy has crafted an approachable and inspiring guide full of whimsical creatures, making the art of crochet accessible to everyone. Perfect for anyone ready to start or grow their crochet journey!”

—ALY AND LINDSAY, CREATORS OF MAMA MADE MINIS

“Each page of Amy’s book is bright, inviting, and brimming with charm, offering something for both beginners and seasoned crocheters alike. It’s sure to be a crochet classic!”

—SARAH PRATHER, CREATOR OF SARAHDEE CROCHET

“An absolute joy! If you’re looking to create some seriously cute plushies, and even learn new techniques along the way, this book is just the thing!”

—ALLISON, CREATOR OF WONDER CROCHET

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